UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Andy F on June 04, 2017, 08:31:20 pm
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Steve has just done the deed (according to Ian Dunne on instagram). Mega effort :2thumbsup: :clap2:
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Get in! Really happy for him
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Steve has just done the deed (according to Ian Dunne on instagram). Mega effort :2thumbsup: :clap2:
Cryptic nonsense that Andy, doesn't deserve its own thread.
Steve Mclure? Malham?
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Steve has just done the deed (according to Ian Dunne on instagram). Mega effort :2thumbsup: :clap2:
Cryptic nonsense that Andy, doesn't deserve its own thread.
Steve Mclure? Malham?
Yes and yes. Sorry for being cryptic, :oops:
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BMC says 9b https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=10156124791175828&substory_index=0&id=381399730827
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Big weekend for climbing news!
It's incredible to think that Steve did his first 'hardest route in the country' nearly 20 years ago....and he wasn't even particularly young then.
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:strongbench: :strongbench: didn't come as much of a surprise considering he almost did it in less than ideal conditions the other day, knew it was just a matter of time.
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:2thumbsup: :strongbench: :bow:
Come on Shark, details! we know you were there.
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For the benefit of those of us not part of the catwalk "chris says hi" glitterati can someone shed any light onto where this route goes?
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Rainshadow through crux (8c+) then new link (8c+) into finish of Bat Route.
I think.
Details of the easier start from a few years back: https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item/68071/steve_mcclure_climbs_batman_9a
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It's the "Easy Easy" referred to here:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item/68071/steve_mcclure_climbs_batman_9a (https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item/68071/steve_mcclure_climbs_batman_9a)
Does Rainshadow past the crux, then rather than bearing slightly left, goes straight up via around 8c+ of "new" climbing to join the end of Batroute. Batman was a consolation version - accessing the new climbing from Bat Route (which is to the right) rather than Rainshadow.
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Too slow moose!
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Fucking A, this is well good.
It's been stressful just following his attempts on facebook, so cool to see him finish it off.
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Steve has just done the deed (according to Ian Dunne on instagram). Mega effort :2thumbsup: :clap2:
UKB at it's cliquey worst! Some of us mere mortals don't know who Steve is, or what the deed is.
Well done though Steve, sounds like a cracking deed.
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Pretty decent doing your first 9b in your late 40s. Keeping up with the young bucks. Legend.
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Pretty decent doing your first 9b in your late 40s. Keeping up with the young bucks. Legend.
Oldest person to climb 9b?
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Pretty decent doing your first 9b in your late 40s. Keeping up with the young bucks. Legend.
Oldest person to climb 9b?
Only Brit to climb 9b?
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Let's let the downgrades roll in before we start handing out the medals ;)
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Only Brit to climb 9b?
The only climbers who have without a shadow of doubt done a 9b route are Chris Sharma, Adam Ondra, Jacob Shubert, Alex Megos, Sachi Amma and Stephano Gisolfi. Possibly Ethan Pringle if Jumbo Love really is 9b.
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He said it's a lot harder and took a lot longer than Overshadow which Ondra called hard 9a+.
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According to Farcebook he's called it Rainman.
I'm just overwhelmed with the congratulations I've received. Thanks so much to all. When on a journey like this you are locked in, its yours, but to have so many people get in touch is truly amazing. Though each and every journey, regardless of the grade, is equal and just as important in every way to the individual, I'm glad I managed to share this epic. Though many people will push through a hard redpoint, not many will break the 100 day barrier!! And so what is it? Rainman, 9b. Phew, did I really say that??
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:2thumbsup: :strongbench: :bow:
Come on Shark, details! we know you were there.
:ninja:
I've written up an account of the day for Alex which he says he's going to squeeze into Summit so I'm not going to give too much away but I was shitting myself
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an account or your day or steve's? :tease:
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an account or your day or steve's? :tease:
;D
Words from our BMC Ambassador himself: www.thebmc.co.uk/rainman-steve-mcclure-climbs-9b-malham
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9b belay got to be better than doing the Oak.
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9b belay got to be better than doing the Oak.
I'll let you know ;)
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9b belay got to be better than doing the Oak.
I'll let you know ;)
That's the spirit! :clap2: :lol:
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According to Farcebook he's called it Rainman.
9b, 9b, definitely 9b, definitely 9b at Malham.
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9b at Malham.... presumably at that level an ultimate limit for combining horrible undercuts with bad smears is being approached.... to get harder you would need to plug MC Escher's brain into a super-computer connected to a 3-D printer.
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Amazing laser focus and dedication.
Great interview here:
https://climber.co.uk/news/latest-news/steve-mcclure-s-rainman-f9b-the-hardest-sport-route-in-the-uk.html
Was it filmed does anyone know?
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Good interview
I’m scratching around to find belayers
He must have been - look what he ended up with.
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Good interview
I’m scratching around to find belayers
He must have been - look what he ended up with.
:) I know you're just jealous
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Great interview here:
https://climber.co.uk/news/latest-news/steve-mcclure-s-rainman-f9b-the-hardest-sport-route-in-the-uk.html
Excellent, thanks for the link. The final line is quality.
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Good interview
I’m scratching around to find belayers
He must have been - look what he ended up with.
:) I know you're just jealous
Big time actually. What an amazing thing to be part of. Hope he bought you a beer.
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read about this last year, but now here's the footage:
https://vimeo.com/220541128
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Bloody hell, unlucky! What are the chances!!? :o
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Ha, ha awesome.
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Is it just me or does when Steve hits the rock with both hands does he sort of resemble gollum from LOTR? Pretty sure gollum makes an alarmingly similar movement in one of th films...
Waddage effort on rainman also. Was rooting for him to do it!
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Anyone got the password for the video? It appear to have been made private.
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yeah, can't see it either
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Yes, yes, 9b and all... But the main question is: did he bother tying his shoelaces for this?
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Yes, yes, 9b and all... But the main question is: did he bother tying his shoelaces for this?
Was going to ask him that last night actually but forgot. Chris says hi from Ceuse etc.
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Well, were his laces done up last night?
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He did his shoe laces up for it. If you scroll down on 8a.nu there's a thing on the latest Anasazi whites where he says did up the laces.
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Must be hard then.
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From Steve Macs FB page (with a picture of him, presumably on Rainshadow):
"So nice to be back stress free! Despite it being wetter than in March. Up filming for BMCTV. And a go on Rainshadow (9a) between links for the camera on Rainman. Why not? First effort I fumbled the very last move, a tad rusty after 13 years away. Then at the end of the day a successful tick. Felt absolutely awesome, but also, and kind of a relief, a complete path compared to Rainman."
8)
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From Steve Macs FB page (with a picture of him, presumably on Rainshadow):
Then at the end of the day a successful tick. Felt absolutely awesome, but also, and kind of a relief, a complete path compared to Rainman."
8)
Hardly surprising when the finish is 8a+ instead of 8c+.
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From Steve Macs FB page (with a picture of him, presumably on Rainshadow):
Then at the end of the day a successful tick. Felt absolutely awesome, but also, and kind of a relief, a complete path compared to Rainman."
8)
Hardly surprising when the finish is 8a+ instead of 8c+.
I suppose so, but it pleased me. Little victories :)
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126 day siege. That is seriously impressive. Can't imagine a siege of that magnitude .
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Oh I think you can.. :-\
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Oh I think you can.. :-\
Can't .
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BMC TV film now up
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L01OUNJvd1E&t=11s
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Taken longer to release than second stone roses album.
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Stone who?
That video is ace, really nicely done and good footage of the moves / holds.
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BMC TV film now up
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L01OUNJvd1E&t=11s
Really enjoyed that, great climbing and one can't help but feel happy for Steve, what a gentleman.
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Taken longer to release than second stone roses album.
Haha. Yes, it could seem that way
It was made last year, premiered at Kendal, and was then emailed to all BMC members to watch over Christmas.
Great short by Ben. Our brief was "make it like that Hubble film". Job done.