UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Duma on July 20, 2019, 01:56:03 pm
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What, if anything, can I still do (safely) while I'm rehabbing my elbow? Fingerboarding?
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I've actually found controlled training has helped rehab golfer's elbow.
Slowly going up and down a mini campus board with feet on the floor, only what I can do with no pain. Lock offs aggravate my elbow, so I think it helps to very gradually strengthen that move. I move the feet a little deeper if that it feels easy, or do bigger lock offs, or use smaller holds. I imagine you could do the same thing with a woody.
And then some hangs on the same board, with hands in different positions - some with both hands on the same rung, some with hands on different rungs.
Just 20min of this per night at first. Very gradually progressing to small campus moves on the bigger holds. And always stopping if there is a twinge. I think it's important to not overdo it. Treat it as movement rehab, not a training session, so there isn't a temptation to push on through pain. And then do rehab exercises after.
Last time I had elbow issues, this kept my fingers fairly strong and made the transition back to climbing easier.
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Thought this was going to be a thread about Jerry...
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In my experience medial epicondylitis gets worse when there is a change in training intensity either up or down. So resting, then starting to train again doesn't work. Basically find out what triggers it and don't do it, but do everything else. Once warmed up, the pain often subsides or goes away. I have also found (and anecdotally this seems common) that pain is triggered especially when the ring finger is engaged, so you might find that training front two is ok, but the same move using the ring finger is painful.
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I apparently got lost...
https://totolore.blogspot.it/2018/01/a-classic-tale-or-what-you-shouldnt-do.html (https://totolore.blogspot.it/2018/01/a-classic-tale-or-what-you-shouldnt-do.html)
I hope this helps.
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Yoga :2thumbsup:
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Shark linked to this in power club thread. It’s excellent. Is Dave Mac Dave Brailsford in disguise? Marginal gains etc :-\
Anyway:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_iMueqiCsVI (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_iMueqiCsVI)
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Yeah just watched that this morning, and now reassured enough to be fingerboarding at ucr
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Shark linked to this in power club thread. It’s excellent. Is Dave Mac Dave Brailsford in disguise? Marginal gains etc :-\
Anyway:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_iMueqiCsVI (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_iMueqiCsVI)
Sooo, from this is the prescription, roughly, to add loads more weight to your rehab exercises and do loads of them every day? Quite different to what I've been doing.
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I’ve had a mild twinge there in my left elbow for a month that’s not got worse or better.
Does golfers start this way and get progressively worse or is it a sudden onset thing?
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I’ve had a mild twinge there in my left elbow for a month that’s not got worse or better.
Does golfers start this way and get progressively worse or is it a sudden onset thing?
Rupert's post above is right on the money. Look at the likely cause, such as something repetitive in an aggravating position (trying Ben's roof a lot?)and change it, rather than looking for a catch all diagnosis and treatment for what would be better called medial elbow pain.
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Rupert's post above is right on the money. Look at the likely cause, such as something repetitive in an aggravating position (trying Ben's roof a lot?)and change it, rather than looking for a catch all diagnosis and treatment for what would be better called medial elbow pain.
Thanks Toby - I had been pondering this as well as Ive been doing a lot of weighted deadhangs with arguably poor form (flexion in the wrists) which might be aggravating the elbow. Don’t think Ben is to blame! Will be using strict half crimps from now on with wrists in a neutral position to see if that is better
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I keep expecting to see Will post on this thread gushing about how he’d just done a circuit at the Depot with Rory McIlroy
😃
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Mine went from not there to definitely golfers in a week.
Agree with Toby and Ru, rest and specific gentle rehab didn't seem to improve, but I'm back doing plenty of press ups, a little bit of fingerboarding, more volume on the rehab, and some easy climbing and have noticed a difference.
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Grumbling on in my left elbow, manageable at the moment.
A few years ago had it on the right and it had gone from suddenly feeling a bit tight to being unable to climb on it in just a few sessions. Just have it to play it by ear really.