UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: T_B on December 08, 2008, 10:18:10 am
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Well-known obvious challenge despatched care of Ed Brown yesterday. High quality and "about V8" according to Ed.
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Good work Ed, finished up block and tackle?
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Good work Ed, finished up block and tackle?
He just bouldered the start y'day.
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cool, will check it out...
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That looks brilliant if my eyes remember correctly. Reall steep arete slapping, isn't it?
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forgive my ignorance, but where abouts is this? (-ve karma for first reply of 'Higgar Tor')
I know nothing about routes
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Nice one Eduardo.
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forgive my ignorance, but where abouts is this? (-ve karma for first reply of 'Higgar Tor')
I know nothing about routes
It's the left arete on the actual leaning block/crag of Higgar Tor (as in The Rasp. J Brown FA 1956).
Block and Tackle the route swings onto the left arete from 10 feet up the chimney. This boulders the arete directly from the ground to an obvious jug.
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That looks brilliant if my eyes remember correctly. Reall steep arete slapping, isn't it?
Apparently the moves are like the crux of the route higher up the arete. Weird, powerful slapping cos it's so overhanging. The final move is an everything off throw for a pint glass-esque jug. Lovely rough rock.
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Lovely rough rock.
oxymoronic?
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Good mini-LGP.
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Lovely rough rock.
oxymoronic?
You should have seen the lad's hands. Urrgh.
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Well-known obvious challenge despatched care of Ed Brown yesterday. High quality and "about V8" according to Ed.
Nice - can we take it that 7b+ would be right then?
Jasper will be along in a minute I'm sure. ;)
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Well-known obvious challenge despatched care of Ed Brown yesterday. High quality and "about V8" according to Ed.
Nice - can we take it that 7b+ would be right then?
Jasper will be along in a minute I'm sure. ;)
V grades don't half annoy me for peak grit. Well, it's going to be 7b or 7b+ innit. V8, the E7 of bouldering grades?
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Ed said 7b+ to me this afternoon. Sounds like landing the top jug really rags your right hand - ouch!
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Jasper will be along in a minute I'm sure. ;)
V grades don't half annoy me
Ed said 7b+ to me this afternoon.
No need. Nuff said. ;D
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Now Ed has toughened up his hands, tell him to investigate the slopiest of sloping traverses, crossing the wall from the jug on Block and Tackle to the niche on Surform (or was it the other way around?).
Claimed at E5 6b by legendary strongman and storyteller Chris Parker back in the 80's, but still awaiting a first ascent.
And how about linking the new start into the original? You could even climb B & T the subtle way, missing out all but one of the "weird powerful slaps". :P
I assume the pointy boulder beneath was patio'd, and the problem bouldered out from the ground?
Great effort, Ed.
Neil
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And how about linking the new start into the original? You could even climb B & T the subtle way, missing out all but one of the "weird powerful slaps". Tongue
I assume the pointy boulder beneath was patio'd, and the problem bouldered out from the ground?
Subtle Way. Lanking up again with your left?
Ed did the start from the ground - one Moon Saturn pad balanced on the boulder and no spotters. No patios.
I'm sure he'll be back to link it into your line.
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And how about linking the new start into the original? You could even climb B & T the subtle way, missing out all but one of the "weird powerful slaps". Tongue
I assume the pointy boulder beneath was patio'd, and the problem bouldered out from the ground?
Subtle Way. Lanking up again with your left?
Ed did the start from the ground - one Moon Saturn pad balanced on the boulder and no spotters. No patios.
I'm sure he'll be back to link it into your line.
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Subtle Way. Lanking up again with your left?
Try attaining the triangular niche out to the right wall by use of a perfect heel hook. You might be surprised when you get it!
Ed did the start from the ground - one Moon Saturn pad balanced on the boulder and no spotters. No patios.
I have to admit I've absolutely no idea what a Moon Saturn pad is, nor a patio for that matter....
Neil
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I have to admit I've absolutely no idea what a Moon Saturn pad is, nor a patio for that matter....
Neil
This is a patio being built (well extended actually)...
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3259/2600209491_a48e1e5d74_m.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/2600209491/)(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3278/2600209515_e58b574c46_m.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/2600209515/)(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3257/2600250581_20f9dbb057_m.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/2600250581/)(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3164/2600250599_74bf760b46_m.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/slackline/2600250599/)
Note that at the start it was sloping uneven ground with the potential to inflict nasty injury (sic.) should you fall on it , yet the end result is perfectly flat and renders the possibility of twisting your ankle or smashing your head on some particularly spiky grass virtually negligable.
:) :P
This is a the largest Moon [of] Saturn, Titan
(http://csep10.phys.utk.edu/astr161/lect/saturn/titan1-small.gif)
but there are lots of other smaller moons such as Rhea
(http://csep10.phys.utk.edu/astr161/lect/saturn/rhea1-small.gif)
and Iapetus
(http://csep10.phys.utk.edu/astr161/lect/saturn/iapetus2.gif)
This diagram may be useful (or not :P)
(http://csep10.phys.utk.edu/astr161/lect/saturn/ring_sat1-small.gif) (http://csep10.phys.utk.edu/astr161/lect/saturn/moons.html)
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Buggar, another one gets away! nice one Ed (the pox) Brown.
Just to hijack the tread, i climbed the wall, between rasp and rasp direct (yes there is a gap), wasn't going to say anything till i'd done the arete, oh well.
Witness the gritness, font 7a+ish cool moves, up to an undercut break thing, then a massive move to the sloping break type thing drop off. Or continue and do the direct finish to the rasp the Bransby has high balled it. Prob done before but well worth while.
Aide.
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Bransby has high balled it.
I think you'll find that that is quite some highball :o - maybe 'soloing' would be a more instructive word. Rasp direct finish is absolute nails - I remember my elegant exit mantle as one of my most harrowing top-outs, and I had the security of a rope at the time. Bollocks to 'highballing' that out. But oh so typical of the Bransbubble!
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Soloing high balling, same thing, he had green wellies on as well! with frog eyes on em.
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he had green wellies on as well! with frog eyes on em.
Aye, those new Evolv's look the business. The eyes make seeing the footholds so much easier....
;)
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Repeated surform direct 'witness the gritness' today. Very good problem and alarmingly high to drop onto one pad! Grade seems about right at 7a+, big move off undercut to high sloper then left hand to jug.
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Was on this today, great problem, it felt strangely necky to me. I kept getting stranded on the undercut(right hand) and high up the arete (left hand). It was looking like i needed to double to slap the soper with my right and throw for the jug with my left. is this a commonly used sequence. it felt as if the undercut was holding me back so im not sure if i have to change my right hand somewhere?
cheers