UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => new problems => Topic started by: Bonjoy on May 05, 2015, 02:09:44 pm
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It’s about time I did a roundup of stuff I’ve done, seen, or heard about which hasn’t been reported on here yet, so here one is. The first lot is new stuff I’ve done, the rest is stuff I’ve been around to see or heard about that hasn’t been mentioned on here. Loads of really good ones among them, especially the two harder roof lines at Crich Tors and Ned’s hard stuff obvs.
Gardoms Woods - Repetionista - 6B
Left (100m west) of Sauvito and down the hill a bit is a 6m wall above a bit of a pit. This is home to a fairly well known about LGP (see below). Repetionista climbs the blunt rib to the left of the steep wall with a crux move at the top. A decent highball to add to the circuit. Old money E2 6a/b
Kinder, Upper Tor - Blocksmith - 7A
Seems like yonks ago I did this. It’s on the steep downhill face of the biggest boulder below the main bit of crag. Probably the best none-highball prob at the crag
Froggatt - Hot Toddy LH - 7A+
Moved a boulder so I could try climbing this from a LH sitter. It didn’t really work from the low holds but did manage to climb from a reachy SS pull on a few holds further. One tricky slap and a bit of foot jiggery pokery to get into the normal really.
Froggatt - Georgie Porgie - 7A+
This is on one of Haydn’s vids from a while back. It is on the same block as Roman Orgy, which is beside the descent route between Tody’s and 3 Pebbles. From a sit start on the flake climb the left arête without using holds on the right. Only feels eliminate for the first move of the sit. 7A from standing. The landing slopes a bit and I tied the pads off to a runner of some sort, but you’d get away without this if you have someone to spot the pads.
Black Garden - T-Bonier - 7A+
An extension start to T Bone Wilson. SS matched on the ramp out right, make a couple of trickyish moves into the original, which then feels a bit harder.
Black Garden - Milky Joe - 6C
This is on one of Emlyn’s recent vids. It on the block directly above T Bone. Climb the right arête on its right. Great jump move. Emlyn rinsed the direct start off face holds and said 7A but it felt heinous to me, I think lank helps.
Black garden - Solo Polo Vision - 7A
Above Milky Joe is a scooped wall. Climb the right arête dynamically.
Wind Hill Farm Outcrop – Wind Power - 7A+
This is another super obscure venue with an offputting write up in the guide. To be fair there isn’t loads there but it is close to the NW of the city and the new thing is good and could be combined with a trip to Smallfield or Hurkling. Grid ref SK24259855. Obvious parking on road to the south, 5min walk in. The main block is full of passages/caves and looks to be a well used local youth hangout.
Climb the bulge left of the central flake crack (which is out for hands and feet obvs). There’s five or six easier lines which have no doubt been climbed before and make decent warm ups.
Curbar – Back Slab SS - 7A+
On the block above the one with Veale Thing on. The guide has a stand start prob called Back Slab going up the vague left arête of the slabby side. The sit start is quite slappy and a bit dabby.
Burbage South – Mudbugs - 7A+
About 100m right of The Alliance and 20m downslope from the edge not far from Notorious BLG and Midge is a leaning pinnacle boulder. From a sit start (low slab is out for feet) climb the leaning wall via pocket and flake then exit via the left shoulder. A direct dyno to the apex would be worthwhile 7B/C but you’d want a enough pads (4 would probably do it) to level the step in the landing.
Blackwell Dale – Bog Standard – 6C+
Keep following the stream down past B&D buttress for maybe 500m, until you get to a vertical wall on the right bank (looking downstream), the left side of which is actually above the water. This is Streamside buttress in the BMC guide and has a couple of E2s on it, one up a flake at the water’s edge, one up the left arching groove where the ivy starts, both finish at an insitu rope sling, This and the next problem climb the nice blank wall between these on Chee Tor quality water featured holds. Bog Standard climbs a vague shallow groove the break. The name applies to the ground underneath not the quality of the climbing. I kept my pad dry by resting it on some dead branches.
Blackwell Dale – Petrified Snails – 6C+
Just left of Bog Standard. Hug up between the BS groove and the vague slopey arête to its left until the big flatty on BS can be reached and hence the break. Nice mono.
Crich Tors
This place traditionally gets a poor write up in guides which probably explains why the roof hasn’t been developed before. Anyway the roof bit is perfect highball height and has a very good landing. The slab was super mossy prior to cleaning and could still do with some more sweeping, so it’s worth bringing a short rope to ab clean the lip holds which are likely to have loose strands of moss on them. Access is fine but you are in eye/ear shot of local back gardens so please don’t be shouting/swearing etc and dogs are likely to set the local dogs off barking so are probably best left at home. We did have a chat with a couple of fellas from the houses and after some initial wariness they were very friendly in the end. The RH section of the crag, past a fence has some interesting looking slab routes from back in the day but appears to be officially or unofficially part of someone’s garden, so is best left alone. I’ve just listed the new things on the main roof, but Bolehillbilly has done some other things left of this, I think these are documented on the UKC database.
Crich Tors – Elephant Hawk Moth - 7A
This problem is a solid gold classic and climbs the wide righthand side of the roof into a tricky direct exit roll onto the slab, you then have some HVS 5a type solo territory to the top.
Crich Tors - Caterpillar - 6C
Start up the right arête to gain the lip of the roof, follow this left past the exit of EHM to an easier topout a bit further left using the obvious crack/flake hold. Finish up the slabby crack.
Crich Tors – Highrider - 7B+
The hardest and best prob here, the roof about 2m right of the obvious roof crack. Took me a while to figure the sequence, good toe-hooking shoes are useful. The lip turn is easier and not as high as that on EHM making it feel a lot less of a ballsy problem.
Left again the roof crack has been cleaned and climbed above pads is a great 6B+. The guide grade of E1 5c seems a bit harsh
Crich Tors – <TBC> - 6B
A good head warmup for the main roof. Start up the groove left of the roof then gain the arete and holds on the front. The easiest exit is up the top crack of The Roof. FA Marc Bellinghall
Burbage South – Thick End of the Wedge - 7C+
This is a sit start to Home Cooking and a bit of a stunner. We had to move a fair sized block to make this work. The lower section of the prow is steep and bar one crimp is pure fridge squeezing. FA Ned Feehally
Curbar – Jamie and his Magic Torch SS – 7B+
The sitter adds quite a bit more balancy technical climbing. Seemed pretty good when I tried it with Kershaw a while back. FA Jamie Lilleman
Stanage Marble Wall area – You Fink I’m Freaky – 7B/+
This is a left curving prowy arête just down and right (looking uphill) of the ‘green room’. Haven’t tried but I hear it’s good. FA Jamie Lilleman
Ramshaw – Scratches – 7C+
Right of Old Fogey buttress is an undercut slab with an obscure 7A up its right arete called Ae Line. Sit start on the right and climb the rising exceedingly slopey lip leftward to an exit at a thin crack by the left arête. Well good. FA Ned Feehally
Rowtor - Thalidomide Thumb Wars – 7C+
An extension start to the rarely climbed Kim’s Slap (reachy 7B+/C), starting matched on the flake on the right. FA Ned Feehally
Robin Hood Stride – Path of the Righteous Man direct start – 7A+
Stand start direct to jug, drop off. FA Ned Feehally
Robin Hood Stride – Path of the Righteous Man RH start – 7B
Start in the flake crack on the right and make a hard step across the wall into said jug, drop off. FA Ned Feehally
Mother’s Pet – Mother’s Ruin – 7B
Some way left of the main block (100m?) is a slabby ‘ball’. The obvious desperate ball maul. FA Ned Feehally
Secret Garden – Savage Garden – 7C
Climb the prow forming the left side of Hulley Pulley from sitting. Quality squeeze monging. FA Ned Feehally
Gardoms Woods – Pit Fighter – 7B+
AKA the Pit project/ Welford’s project. The low start LGP is still to be done but the upper half swinging in off the block on the right is a fantastic highball in itself and a friendlier prospect now the landing has been sorted out a bit. Gain the central flake and some slopey crimps then exit left via the niche. For location see Repetionista description above. FA Ned Feehally
Burbage South – Heavy Skies – 8A+
Talking of LGPs he’s only gone and climbed the sit start to Intense! Thereby turning a scrappy height dependant eliminate into a hard quality test piece. Haven't got any more detail than that am afraid. FA Ned Feehally
Blackwell Dale – Black, Sack & Crack – 7B
Continuing down dale from Black & Decker Buttress, after passing a vertical buttress you get to a bulge capped roof with a weird tufa pillar at its base. This starts in the break under the roof then crosses it at its widest and punches up slopey crimps to the obvious hanging jug rail. As good if not better than Ovine. FA Ned Feehally
Consider the beans spilled. Enough for a new guide yet Cofe? :jab:
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Various pics and vids to follow.
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Nice one Jon
My missus did a new problem at Stanage End last month - 'Grizzly Traverse'. It's on the wall around to the right of Love Handles and is pretty decent, though a little sharp in places.
Starts sitting at an obvious flatty then heads rightwards across the wall before finishing via two obvious pockets and a jug. I thought about Font 6B.
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Nice one yoot, about flipping time. Like the sound of Black, Sack and Crack and the Crich stuff. I eagerly await your photographic and video documentation of these climbs.
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Heavy skies 8a+? What drugs were used here? It's 8a to jump start and the moves to this are at least 8b! Tho you could be right you haven't got all the details, try and find out if he started matched Jon. Shit that's such a small grade for that I can't really think about it :'(
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You know what he's like, not one to splash big numbers about etc.
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Pic here from https://instagram.com/beastmakers/
(not sure this will embed)
(https://igcdn-photos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xaf1/t51.2885-15/11235850_1436267396688263_1401971827_n.jpg)
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Fuck that looks intense!
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Wow - I had no idea that this had been done. A great long stander. This should have been news surely? 8a+ huh!
Looked at this years ago, although the slot was always full of ice. Cool stuff.
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Is he leaning off a massive toe-hook in the gully or what? Might explain the 'lowly' grade...
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Beastly stuff, should be news aye!
Crich Tors....I told Oggers about this a decade ago, he should have listened...
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Agreed Mr Brown - that is a large toe hook going on there. I hadn't really considered that years ago, so thought proper hard.
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Is he leaning off a massive toe-hook in the gully or what? Might explain the 'lowly' grade...
Be a bit disappointing if he is, but would make more sense. I envisaging the lower start going up via the high left sidepull, now that would be properly intense.
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He did start matched in the slot for this, then go right hand first for the miserably slopey edge with decent thumb catch.
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Was it a sit start or was it an American sit start with his right toe already in that position? Tell me everything, except that that makes me sick!
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Proper sit start, right hand first then a bit of foot jiggery to get the heel toe in
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The line has just been turned from a weird eliminate into a proper problem and already folk seem to want it to go back to being one again. :blink:
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Ned's such an arsehole.
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The whole thing's one big embarrassment. No wonder that guy training for it can't sleep at night.
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I certainly don't know how Ned can sleep at night if he was alive today while he's sleeping in Jerry's grave at night.
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Consider the beans spilled.
Good underplayed bean spillage sir.
Crich Tors – <TBC> - 6B
A good head warmup for the main roof. Start up the groove left of the roof then gain the arete and holds on the front. The easiest exit is up the top crack of The Roof.
The left hand line on the roof is called Peak Practice 6b.
On a small buttress 50m left of the roof (mentioned in the old guide) are two new problems based on the arête.
Wind Singer 6a
Left side of the arête.
Fire Song 6a
Right side of the arête.
Both on good rock with some unusual nipple like protrusions.
Some roof footage...
https://vimeo.com/124038918
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Just remembered, Ned also did a mantel through the middle of Scratches at Ramshaw, looked hard (7b?). He nearly linked it to the SS of Scratches but heel popped at the last moment, so that's still to do.
He also did the project mantel left of Journey to the Centre of the Mirf in the new guide, again a vague mention of 7b was made.
Whilst I'm documenting the Ned-machine, since doing this thread he has climbed the left arete of the Guplets wall from SS low start at 7c+ - this is called Black Asteroid and is a real belter.
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This is by far his best prob around, and unfortunately has got me psyched to climb outside again >:(
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Black Asteroid is awesome but just to avoid confusion it isn't a sit start, unless you stack a good few pads.
It goes from LH on an obvious pinch/slot thing and a RH on the arete at the same height as LH. First move is the crux but next few are fumble-able and top out adds a nice bit of spice.
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great name that
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Oops, yes I did know that about the start position.
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Just remembered, Ned also did a mantel through the middle of Scratches at Ramshaw, looked hard (7b?). He nearly linked it to the SS of Scratches but heel popped at the last moment, so that's still to do.
He also did the project mantel left of Journey to the Centre of the Mirf in the new guide, again a vague mention of 7b was made.
Whilst I'm documenting the Ned-machine, since doing this thread he has climbed the left arete of the Guplets wall from SS low start at 7c+ - this is called Black Asteroid and is a real belter.
Where abouts is Scratches at Ramshaw?
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Just remembered, Ned also did a mantel through the middle of Scratches at Ramshaw, looked hard (7b?). He nearly linked it to the SS of Scratches but heel popped at the last moment, so that's still to do.
He also did the project mantel left of Journey to the Centre of the Mirf in the new guide, again a vague mention of 7b was made.
Whilst I'm documenting the Ned-machine, since doing this thread he has climbed the left arete of the Guplets wall from SS low start at 7c+ - this is called Black Asteroid and is a real belter.
Where abouts is Scratches at Ramshaw?
Got it - Far right hand end beyond old Fogey
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Vid of Scratches here - https://vimeo.com/108774859
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Looks good!
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Of the new 7c+s I think it's the most doable for mortals
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Here’s a couple of vids of new things:
This is Gritlad giving it his all on Elephant Hawk Moth at Crich Tors
https://vimeo.com/128776511
And this is the first ascent of Wind Power at Wind Hill Farm Outcrop
https://vimeo.com/128776512
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Good knee action there!
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I really like the squeak sound on Highrider
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Blackwell Dale – Black, Sack & Crack – 7B
Continuing down dale from Black & Decker Buttress, after passing a vertical buttress you get to a bulge capped roof with a weird tufa pillar at its base. This starts in the break under the roof then crosses it at its widest and punches up slopey crimps to the obvious hanging jug rail. As good if not better than Ovine. FA Ned Feehally
Tried this briefly tonight. Cool. Felt about 7D. Though I was rubbish, a hold was wet and it felt 7D. Looks like someone else has been on it. Assume it keeps left and avoids couple of better holds right?
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when was you there? i was there till 6 today with jon fullwood, i did two new problems on the butress, the line to the right, probably one of the best problems i've done in the peak and i also did black,sack and crack but starting on the big jugs on the right tonight, which i thought made it a little harder so going on black sack and crack being 7B+ maybe 7C and the line to the right is hard to grade as its a dyno to a crimp. if you are really tall you could probably keep your feet on but i had to jump. maybe 7C again? i have no idea
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also not sure what you mean about the holds on the right, its not an eliminate, everything is in.
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Didn't get out til just after 7, but only went down to BSC last thing. My sequence was: break, LH to a wet spike in roof, RF heel toe, RH flat/slopey edge, LF heel toe, LH small edge, try and get feet out, fall off, scratch head, have a Maoam's fruity chew, check Facebook, scratch head.
But there was a well tickmarked good hold just right, round the lip, which confused me about the line, hence trying to keep left.
Seemed hard, but I'll go back next week, I reckon.
Also, on Bovine, do folk actually use the wet slots or the left-trending little crimps? I was trying the latter but couldn't do the last bit.
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My sequence. Break. Rh to slopey edge. Put left herl to in. Reach to the slopey edge not using the ear in the roof. Bump right hand to the good hold slightly more right ward. Then really big reach with left hand to the next edge with my left. (Jon had to change the heel toe cam to just a toe for this move and also right foot out right in the roof) bump your right hand down to an undercut. (Its the slopey edge i go to on the first move but upsidown.) Move right foot way out right to a smear in the roof. Left foot awkward toe hook out right (releasing the left foot to put the toe hook in is hard) then roll over with right hand to good edge (thats the crux) then flick to the jugs
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Im keen to go back and film all the problems so that shouls shed light on the beta
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Cheers. Quite different to what I thought.
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Bovine original went leftward along the crimps to the same finish as ovine i suspect becase the slot was wet. When its dry just go strait up to the big jug above.
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I'd be keen to see a vid of the roof problems. I went to have a look and couldnt find anything, or rather I did see a rather small overhang but thought 'surely it cant be that, they said it was really good' :shrug: be keen to see anyway so I know what's what
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Ta. I was on holds independent of Ovine, just proper ratty matching the last ones. Will have another crack next week, maybe with the slots if a bit drier.
Anyone done Mint Sauce, looks class.
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whats that one? is that the 1 move 7C?
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The highball groove. I think that's what it's called anyway. Looked cleaner than normal. And by 'normal' I mean since the last time I went to Griff's, 6 or 7 years ago.
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The highball groove. I think that's what it's called anyway. Looked cleaner than normal. And by 'normal' I mean since the last time I went to Griff's, 6 or 7 years ago.
I did Mint Sauce last week some time. Managed to clean it a little off a ladder but could only just reach to clean the sloper at the base of the groove and when I got there from the ground I felt too tired to try to go straight into the groove so slapped R to a big flakey hold and jug. Didn't go back up and try the more direct finish - I was pretty happy with what I had done and it felt 7c, although finishing straight up may well be harder?? It is good Cofe, you should go try it. I thought it was really good.
Did you feel the flake hold that Mint starts on? Keen to finish off Ru's trav and this was pretty wet last time (didn't really matter for MS as you only hold it for a sec)
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Ta Ben. I think I felt the hold you mention, and I think it was dry. I think. Starting left crimp hoist on Ovine Low Left was wet/damp.
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cheers word. Won't be climbing till tue at earliest anyhow.
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You're not working Monday are you Ben :o ;)
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You're not working Monday are you Ben :o ;)
Shit no. Family visiting innit.
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Is he leaning off a massive toe-hook in the gully or what? Might explain the 'lowly' grade...
Had a look while out bilberry picking the other week. He's heelhooking/heel-toeing the slightly blunt low arête. Totally logical. The gully/back of the block is miles away, unless he's packing a massive right leg. Really massive. Looks nails.