UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Danny on February 01, 2017, 11:55:56 am
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Given that I'm moving about a lot at the moment I've started training regularly on one of those portable fingerboards. I'm wondering if anyone has noticed any systematic differences between using the portables vs standard fixed?
For example, as I expected, it's a bit harder on a portable to get through the standard 7-3 repeater routine due to instability. I'm thinking this is probably a good thing, but it might not be. Also as a result of instability I'm mostly avoiding the two finger pockets—these seem much harder to hang than fixed equivalents, and I worry that the wobbling will result in tweaks. Instead, I'm thinking of starting to mix up weighted max hangs on the better edges.
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Bump.
One further question as a training ignoramus: who does the full-lock, half-lock, 1/4-lock, 3/4-lock routine on their repeaters or max hangs? I've tended to do this for repeaters, but I'm also slightly prone to elbow trouble. I feel like I'm asking for it by smashing on with this approach on a portable board.
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I like Encores; I've never tried them during max-hangs (1-arm assisted on the deep BM2000 slot usually). I find that keeping my elbows 'tucked in' during the full-lock rep seems to hurt less.
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Re: elbows, I'll try that, and maybe mix it up with some preventative dumbbell type stuff. I used to be fine hanging a 1 arm lock at 90, but I must be getting weaker in the arms as I'm failing on the lock rather than in the fingers a few sets into my routine ATM.