UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: shark on October 01, 2016, 02:13:04 pm
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Not intending doing any climbing or training this weekend so might as well start it now
10.13 - 11.1
M.
T. Up with Luke Dawson. Warmish but drizzly and blowing in when we got there - catwalk treacherously slippy. Felt tired and unmotivated Cons x 3. Drizzle departed and good breeze on the crag which took edge off humidity. Better conditions than last week though. Cons x 3. Go 1 Dogged to horn then led horn to top. Go 2 Still sunny on rock but felt OK - Ground to thru horn and felt good above going right but got the sloper in the wrong place then managed to get tips into big undercut but not well enough to pull into rest. Happy to get through throwe mover again - an Autumn highpoint ;D but shame I didnt get to top travere as felt reasonably fresh when came off Had a sneaky crag nap with sun in face. Nice Go 3 Ground to touching horn. Rested on bolt then tried to do second to top but rock felt glassy and had foot slippages so came off setting up for throw and came down. Go 4 Ground to touching horn. Tried from 2nd bolt but fell off throw. Then did throw to midway across top traverse. Then tried pull straight back on twice to do top traverse but couldnt. Two minutes rest and did top traverse to belay. Luke did GBH and looked good on Rainshadow. Maddy loooked good on Bat Route
W.
T.
F. Noon. Luke drove. Tom and Jerome came too Cooler temps - low teens but humidity still around 70% but an on-crag wind. Good but not mint. 2 x Cons. Go 1 Felt glassy dogging up - slipped off horn with both hands on it. Came down. Discovered toes of Whites had gone soft after just 5 sessions >:( Go 2 did in 3 sections. Ground to undercut by 3rd Throw to horn. Horn to top Go 3 Ground to grabbing but not holding horn - kept having to readjust feet. 2 mins rest then 2nd bolt to midway across the top traverse Go 4 2nd bolt to top :dance1:
S. Moving some slabs
S.
No alcohol all week :o
Generally feel lacklustre, unmotivated and sleepy. Back starting to play up. Reaping the result of neglecting stretching for last 6 months. Also got an elbow twinge on Tuesday but seemed to clear up with icing. Fingers generally achey and swollen joints kept at bay with massage. Weight heading very gradually downwards.
Ben Moon suggested doing interval training on the route ie trying to do bolt to horn twice with minimal rest on one go and another go horn to top 2/3 times. Its an intetresting tactic Id not considered before. At this stage though I think it is something to do next Spring if dont get it this season - after all it could start seeping soon.
Signed up for Malham on Monday with Steve and possibly the following Friday depending on things
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Nice one on 2nd to top shark!
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Nice one on 2nd to top shark!
Thanks.
There's only 4 hand moves to get to that point but also 10 foot moves which amounts to over 20secs
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Good link, simon.
Likewise I'm done for the week:
goals - Aberration, Body Machine?, Obscene Toilet, OSing, Trad.
Mon - debated all the way to the Tor whether to try BM or OT, relieved to find the start of BM busy and happy to get on OT. Even happier to do it 3rd go, first being a warm up and having dropped it post throw on the second. Had a quick play on The Toilet before deciding against it.
Tue - back to try BM, eventually managed the moves on the lower wall. Did break to break with one fall but will extend the draw at the chipped pocket in future so it can be clipped from below, confident I can get that link again. Linked top bulge but still haven't settled on a sequence for the traverse. Positive session, psyche for this restored.
Wed - Took wife's car to garage, jogged really slowly 2km to Foundry, bouldered for a while then 3x10 mins AeroCap, jogged 2km very slowly back to collect car.
Thu - rest (Should have been heading to Wales with a trad rack but the forecast looked a bit iffy).
Fri - Moat. At last, been trying to get back for 2 years having come close to Let The Tripe Increase. Cool with a strong breeze. Mint.
Onsighted Two Sheep to Leicester by the skin of my teeth then had a working go on LTTI. Found crux easier than I remembered, the grim crimp ain't so grim after pulling on Tor crimps, obviously.
1st RP was a complete disaster but a quick rework of the initial groove, the rest and the crux setup then I did it with minimum fuss.
Sat - slept badly and woke up with a sore back
had had to abandon plans for Kilnsey but made it to Two Tier. Back on Aberration:
first go warming up, reworked crux sequence, felt solid.
1st RP - fell on crux, couldn't get new sequence to work again. Reverted to original but found use of a newly spotted foothold quite handy.
2nd RP - through crux, messed feet up, fought through sidepulls but just missed making what should be the last fluffable move.
Getting weary now
3rd RP - got to crux and just couldn't lock in on the gaston.
4th RP - almost off not quite locking in enough on gaston then on every move through to 1st sidepull then missed a foothold again.
Realised why that move's proving harder now, it's a different setup position due to the handy, newly-spotted foothold.
Would have been nice to get it to top off the week but still been a good week, two routes off the WIP list and good progress on two others. Weather needs to play nice for a few weeks now.
Sun - Rest
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Lot of volume there nai :clap2:
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pardon?
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pardon?
4 hardish days out of 7.
I'm down to 2
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Ben Moon suggested doing interval training on the route ie trying to do bolt to horn twice with minimal rest on one go and another go horn to top 2/3 times. Its an intetresting tactic Id not considered before. At this stage though I think it is something to do next Spring if dont get it this season - after all it could start seeping soon.
Would love to have heard how this conversation panned out - "Hey thanks for the advice Ben, the best climber of your generation who last season made an unprecedented mid-life comeback doing hardest route you've ever done at age 48, but if it's all the same to you I'm gonna ignore that advice cheers mate".
:jaw:
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Ben will always be Ben Moon, and the rest of us will never be Ben Moon.
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Sounds like a great week nai, nice one!
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Goals:
Big goal - Picnic Sarcastic.
Grit – Grit 7 specifically Piss & G.
Lime - Solid 7B+ maybe 7C should be within me this year.
Training - 50kgs for 10s on small BM edge and 1-4-7 campus. (PBs 40.5kg & 1-4-6)
M-Rest. Built a sort of replica of Advance Training in my garage for a rainy day.
T-I had Rubicon pretty much to myself and my 10 month old. YYFY moment on BSD. The fourth 7B of my life (if you count Man of Steel) and the third in the past three weeks. I really love lime!
W-Rubicon again with the boy. A bit of a crowd today though. Was trying Press and though the first go felt pretty solid (surprised myself by reaching the higher RH hold) repeated efforts failed to make much advance on this. Think I need to be further from the wall and quicker with the correct foot movements.
https://vimeo.com/185196345
Consolation prizes of Bigger Tail 7A & Bigger Splash 7A.
Then went to see if Red or Dead was dry – it sort of was but not quite. Made the first big move then greased off the LH and landed arse cheek first on that nasty rock underneath. Called it a day.
T-Resting my sorry arse.
F-Play on Trackside boulder for a while (has anyone ever done Strawberries in trainers? I haven’t). Then got word that Blackwell was bone so headed over for revenge on Red or Dead. As the kids slept or ate in the car I made a fairly hurried ascent of RoD. I’ve now done 24 Font 7s up from just 8 two months ago. Did I mention I love lime!?
S-Crap night’s sleep. Dawn raid on Rubicon (why – the grit was begging for it!?) that was pleasant but I could make no impression on Kudos Traverse. I don’t know why it felt so hard - the lack of sleep, the lack of skill, the hardness? Maybe it was the lack of beans and of not (to quote nibs) “pulling as hard as I possibly could”?
Later I found out that the reason for the fail was none of these things….it was that I’ve come down with the plague.
S-Plague.
Weight – 63.1 average. About right.
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No alcohol all week :o
:o indeed!
M/ T - Nothing
W - Inddors, trying to focus on some steeper stuff, with relative success, only wandered off onto something more vertical a couple of times.
Th - Nothing
Fr - Planned to go indoors, but slept badly, nearly had my first old man afternoon snooze.
Sa - Nothing
Su - Canche aux merciers. Warmed up quickly then got straight onto Tirroir secret https://bleau.info/canche/3625.html, Did it in about 5 goes, didn't, reckon I could do it almost every go now, despite taking about 5 years to get it.
2 goes on Jeu des Jambes, did the traverse both times, but fluffed the end. Did loads of easier stuff, had goes on a couple of harder projects, which seemed easier than last time I tried, probably due to a sudden drop in temperature.
Tried Bobol's come back https://bleau.info/canche/3633.htmlhttps://bleau.info/canche/3633.html, and suprised myself by managing to pull onto it, shoul be a nice benchmarking problem. Excellent day in all, felt good, bit more confident at taking higher falls.
Not working tomorrow and connies look good. :2thumbsup:
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M: Planks (each side and front x 2, 30 secs)
Tu: Small deadhang routine
We: Rubicon. Lots of folk there including Murph (hello!) who was crushing hard. Progress on B.Splash Direct (got but decided not to hold the final hold etc..). Play on Kudos and B.Splash...
Th: rest
Fr: Rublycon. Warm - but OK out of the sun. No more progress on either really...
Sa: Hull to watch the football.
Su: Awful nights sleep - woke up early, had the shits, headache, shivers. Better when Lemsipped up...
Next week is going to see little/no climbing as its three days fieldwork, followed by trip to London to see the inlaws coming back on Sat...
Been quite a stressful week - lots of minor incidents/stuff happened. Really wanted to get out today - but body said no way...
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STG: Regular training, Skin maintenance
MTG: Red Baron Roof, FA Project
LTG: ?
M
T: Board session in the evening. Mainly repeating old problems. Felt a bit unfamiliar at first but got back into it nicely. Bearing in mind what 36C had said about problems of approx 10 moves, I started looking at creating one but with little success. Having to do downclimb bits which always end up being quite falloffable even though they're not that desperate. Will have another go this coming Tuesday.
W:
T: Volunteering day with the YWT in Crookrise plantation. Took advantage of being allowed into the plantation and knocked off early. Drove to the top and had a nice 10 min walk in to Faerie's Chest. As I arrived there was a heavy shower which soaked the top but the start of Pixie Tits started dry. Played on the moves of the sit and could do the first press into the high left hand crimp OK but got nowhere with Stubbs' beta from This Is Yorkshire. Found out later that his beta is toss and it's more commonly done as an awkward dyno after the first press move. Feels nails. Once the to dried did the stand and the traverse start. About 6A+ and 6B respectively.
F: 3 pints and 2 mojitos.
S: Felt like shit most of the day! Doesn't take much these days.
S: Panorama Crag in the Dales. Flashed or sort of flashed a couple of bouldery 7as and some 6cs.
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nearly had my first old man afternoon snooze.
Not sure if this is a NNFN or YYFY
I started at twenty, seemed to come free with the first mortgage.
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M HIT
T Wave lunchtime. Despite 2 days off I felt tired after a rubbish night's sleep. Managed to twice fall off the last move of a level 3 I hadnt done.
W Skating at lunchtime. Did a frontside snapback gnarler (not sure what they're called in modern skate language) but only on the beginners half pipe. 20 minute Kettlebell HIT class at the gym in the evening.
T Shed in the evening. Brilliant as ever
F
S Gym core
S Roadside Wall. About 7/8 degrees cooler than last week I would guess - well cold enough to see your breath when I got there. Managed Free Range Abattoir which I'm pleased about as the first move felt miles. Obvs trashed my skin on it. Crossed the road to do Fudge which is quite butch.
Just need to lose a stone and I'd be great
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Goals:
Lots of local sport, unfinished business with cider soak from 15 years ago, good winter bouldering season,
8A (Hunters Roof?)and 8b by next June
Body Audit: Shoulder ok, knee pretty much fine, finger still on the mend.
M: Bloc eve for a change, tired from work but gained a bit of psyche from somewhere fresh. Did a bunch of yellows which I think are meant to be mid 6s to low 7s, plus a great white that was maybe 7B. Holds are still filthy though, do they not sell brushes or something?
T: TCA eve, bunch of blues (low 6s) then failed a bit on the black 7B+ on the mothership before bailing. Finger not happy.
W: nothing
T: TCA eve, crap session really, managed the yellow on the mothership (7A+) that I'd been avoiding to protect finger, with no ill effects, but went backwards on the black and the green, sacked it off and did the whole set of blues instead. On the bright side, finger seemed a bit better.
F: nothing
S: took Chloe to TCA for a couple of hours, just a few easy bits for me.
S: nothing
Another easy week, feeling pretty flat with lack of sleep and injury. Meh.
69kg
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Summer holiday of a couple of weeks not training or climbing, chilling traveling in France, finished mid September. Did 6 board sessions up to the start of this week to nip up a bit. Now preparing for Autumn / Winter trips Sicily, Rodellar, Tremp perhaps a couple of weeks in Font. Recalled that this was a good way to keep on plan so back on it.
Goals: Onsight long routes up to 7b, single day redpoints at 7b+ / 7c perhaps the odd 8a if things go well.
Daily: Evening stretch and core session.
Monday: 10 x23 m routes at Sunderland average grade 6c
Tuesday: Boulders at DCC
Wednesday: Rest day ... loafing and sleeping Squats and foot rehab session.
Thursday: 8 x (20 - 25m) routes at Newton Aycliffe average grade 6c+
Friday: Rest day ... loafing and sleeping tiny bit of gardening .. Squats and foot rehab session.
Saturday: 9 x ( 20-25m) routes at Newton Aycliffe average grade 7a
Sunday: Rest day... mainly loafing... squats and foot rehab session plus first revisit of pinch and finger strength sessions.
Not a bad week but need to ramp up the intensity. Good to be back leading routes.
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Not intending doing any climbing or training this weekend so might as well start it now
10.13 - 11.1
M.
T. Up with Luke Dawson. Warmish but drizzly and blowing in when we got there - catwalk treacherously slippy. Felt tired and unmotivated Cons x 3. Drizzle departed and good breeze on the crag which took edge off humidity. Better conditions than last week though. Cons x 3. Go 1 Dogged to horn then led horn to top. Go 2 Still sunny on rock but felt OK - Ground to thru horn and felt good above going right but got the sloper in the wrong place then managed to get tips into big undercut but not well enough to pull into rest. Happy to get through throwe mover again - an Autumn highpoint ;D but shame I didnt get to top travere as felt reasonably fresh when came off Had a sneaky crag nap with sun in face. Nice Go 3 Ground to touching horn. Rested on bolt then tried to do second to top but rock felt glassy and had foot slippages so came off setting up for throw and came down. Go 4 Ground to touching horn. Tried from 2nd bolt but fell off throw. Then did throw to midway across top traverse. Then tried pull straight back on twice to do top traverse but couldnt. Two minutes rest and did top traverse to belay. Luke did GBH and looked good on Rainshadow. Maddy loooked good on Bat Route
W.
T.
F. Noon. Luke drove. Tom and Jerome came too Cooler temps - low teens but humidity still around 70% but an on-crag wind. Good but not mint. 2 x Cons. Go 1 Felt glassy dogging up - slipped off horn with both hands on it. Came down. Discovered toes of Whites had gone soft after just 5 sessions >:( Go 2 did in 3 sections. Ground to undercut by 3rd Throw to horn. Horn to top Go 3 Ground to grabbing but not holding horn - kept having to readjust feet. 2 mins rest then 2nd bolt to midway across the top traverse Go 4 2nd bolt to top :dance1:
S. Moving some slabs
S.
No alcohol all week :o
Generally feel lacklustre, unmotivated and sleepy. Back starting to play up. Reaping the result of neglecting stretching for last 6 months. Also got an elbow twinge on Tuesday but seemed to clear up with icing. Fingers generally achey and swollen joints kept at bay with massage. Weight heading very gradually downwards.
Ben Moon suggested doing interval training on the route ie trying to do bolt to horn twice with minimal rest on one go and another go horn to top 2/3 times. Its an intetresting tactic Id not considered before. At this stage though I think it is something to do next Spring if dont get it this season - after all it could start seeping soon.
Signed up for Malham on Monday with Steve and possibly the following Friday depending on things
Edit:
S. Steve bailed for Malham tomorrow so went to Crag X in afternoon. Still, cool and a bit midgy. Spent time nailing the top section of JR. Did twice from the rail and discovered a marginal heel/toe in the break in the process which helps when catching the thumb catch pinch. Tried several times from the ground but didnt quite get to hold the pinch. Good session. Optimistic about success now
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We: Rubicon. Lots of folk there including Murph (hello!) who was crushing hard. Progress on B.Splash Direct (got but decided not to hold the final hold etc..).
Hello! And thanks.
You're not wrong though - I swear you totally had the BSD jug at one point but somehow it didn't stick. Mind over matter. Next time after a decent rest surely!?
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Summer holiday of a couple of weeks not training or climbing, chilling traveling in France, finished mid September. Did 6 board sessions up to the start of this week to nip up a bit. Now preparing for Autumn / Winter trips Sicily, Rodellar, Tremp perhaps a couple of weeks in Font. Recalled that this was a good way to keep on plan so back on it.
Welcome back
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We: Rubicon. Lots of folk there including Murph (hello!) who was crushing hard. Progress on B.Splash Direct (got but decided not to hold the final hold etc..).
Hello! And thanks.
You're not wrong though - I swear you totally had the BSD jug at one point but somehow it didn't stick. Mind over matter. Next time after a decent rest surely!?
:D no where near on Friday. Burnt a load of efforts holding the rh hold in slightly the Wrong way! No more opportunities for a week so that might be it for this year at Rubicon if the weather craps out...
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About 7/8 degrees cooler than last week I would guess - well cold enough to see your breath when I got there.
7 degrees when I passed the Fox House this eve
Just need to lose a stone and I'd be great
Greater than Lagers?
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that might be it for this year at Rubicon if the weather craps out...
Tell me you're not serious. Surely rubicon is fine all year round? I've got so much left to do!
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S. Steve bailed for Malham tomorrow so went to Crag X in afternoon. Still, cool and a bit midgy. Spent time nailing the top section of JR. Did twice from the rail and discovered a marginal heel/toe in the break in the process which helps when catching the thumb catch pinch. Tried several times from the ground but didnt quite get to hold the pinch. Good session. Optimistic about success now
Nice one Simon. Is X still all in good nick to date? Wondering whether it might be worth a look at Sean's after I hopefully drag myself up Paint it Black.
Forecast looks dry all this week still :)
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that might be it for this year at Rubicon if the weather craps out...
Surely rubicon is fine all year round?
Pretty much, yes. And there's no sign of any crapping out either. Connies only likely to improve for the foreseeable.
Nobody panic.
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Monday Gym AM
Tuesday Gym AM
Wednesday Gym AM
Thursday 7-8 mile walk PM
Friday Gym AM 6 mile walk PM
Saturday Gym AM
Sunday Dartmoor walk in the morning
Feeling a little better on the weights this week, pull ups still feel a long way off. Going to hospital for a check up tomorrow; very nervous. Hopefully all will be OK.
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About 7/8 degrees cooler than last week I would guess - well cold enough to see your breath when I got there.
7 degrees when I passed the Fox House this eve
Just need to lose a stone and I'd be great
Greater than Lagers?7
No of course not
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73kg
M - nowt
T - Blackwell Dale: repeated Ovine in a couple of goes, which was a relief after having an unexpected 'mare on it in the spring; worked the left and right starts but didn't quiet feel like going for it on either - crossed the road and met Murph at Beginner's - Hi Murph - advanced training looks good for potential STG - rest of the Dale was gopping
W - Streaming man-flu, work, felt pants
T - Deadlift day but felt way too shit to go to the gym WTF! Desperate decision as was light enough for 3xBW, and just needed to lift the same as last week. Beginning to feel this target could really drag out..
F - Still feeling shit. Some kind of premonition made me weigh-in, as Fridays are usually a 7pm finish merging straight into bedtime duties. But the luck fairy was with me today; one of my patients literally fled the building after I explained the tiny chance of me rendering them blind or making their brain leak - some people!
Anyhoo that created the unexpected window so I persuaded myself to go to the gym at least just to get some training in; very crowded, big Eddie was in the house, somehow scraped together the energy for one good go and the consequent willy-waving covered in the DL thread. 225 off 1" blocks wouldn't budge tho! Went home and died
S - Fingerboard BM2k open crimp small crimps - max hangs up to 3 sets of 30kg for 8 sec
S - Stoke awesome walls - 2 hrs problems; chuffed to get the black V8 in the cave; worked the green V8 but too long for me
3 sets per side campus board drop-downs (4 to 1)x3
ring dips 3x3
Way overdid it today and feel poo now
Looking forward to feeling well enough to to properly celebrate the 3xBW!
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M:
T: 50 board. Small holds, feeling strong, good session.
W:
T: 50 board. Small holds, feeling strong, good session. Felt slightly tweaky afterwards so maybe a tad too intense.
F:
S: Cliff. With Coops_13. Good day. Repeated lots of stuff. Slowly getting a sequence for Keelhaul 8A together, still don't quite have it completely sussed.
S: Cliff. Had a play on Slopey Traverse 7C and fell off the last "hard" move. Should hopefully go next time.
Current "training plan" is to spend all my indoor days on the 50 and then do a few PE sessions before the big winter crush.
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No alcohol all week :o
:o indeed!
Resolve dissolved this evening. Shared a bottle of Chianti followed by neat craft Gin not to mention chocolate and pancakes.
Word is Oak is now wet so no harm done
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Word is Oak is now wet so no harm done
But Horn to top is dry?
Ben Moon suggested doing interval training on the route ie trying to do bolt to horn twice with minimal rest on one go and another go horn to top 2/3 times. Its an intetresting tactic Id not considered before.
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(http://i.imgur.com/n9dKBIPl.jpg)
Lowering off the final anchors ... the photo is taken from where you start climbing. It's a monstrous route.
Looks (and sounds) amazing, good effort getting it done and sounds an amazing effort even getting to it over and over again.
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+1
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Mon - rest.
Tue - rest. Absolutely spent.
Wed - EMOM sets, cleans x10, snatch pulls x10, 15" lock offs x10. Normal service resumed.
Thu - dumbbell complex 10x10. Barbell shrugs.
Fri - EMOM sets, 30" overhead walk x10; 30" shoulder carry x10. Brutal. Spent.
Sat - rest.
Sun - board climbing! Big session with friends, too much volume, still very hot and humid but good fun. Luckily fingers felt fine. 10' of boxing bag afterwards left me completely spent. Brilliant.
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S. Steve bailed for Malham tomorrow so went to Crag X in afternoon. Still, cool and a bit midgy. Spent time nailing the top section of JR. Did twice from the rail and discovered a marginal heel/toe in the break in the process which helps when catching the thumb catch pinch. Tried several times from the ground but didnt quite get to hold the pinch. Good session. Optimistic about success now
Nice one Simon. Is X still all in good nick to date? Wondering whether it might be worth a look at Sean's after I hopefully drag myself up Paint it Black.
Forecast looks dry all this week still :)
Yes really good nick. The river has virtually dried up. If I don't get any takers for Malham tomorrow I'll be heading back there.
Was looking thru the UKC logbooks last night and seen that you'd done Moffatricity and couldn't square that with the travails you've had with the eatswood Traverse.
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Monday Gym AM
Tuesday Gym AM
Wednesday Gym AM
Thursday 7-8 mile walk PM
Friday Gym AM 6 mile walk PM
Saturday Gym AM
Sunday Dartmoor walk in the morning
Feeling a little better on the weights this week, pull ups still feel a long way off. Going to hospital for a check up tomorrow; very nervous. Hopefully all will be OK.
Hope it goes well Toby.
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M: Bas Cuvier. Wet from previous day. Tried a couple of easy blocks before going back to Italy.
T: assisted one harms. fb max hangs
W: pull ups
T: isometric weights. ab-wheel, headstand
F: rest
S: lunch board climbing. Eve tried a new circuit on rings: plank holds, push ups, dips, top position x 5 2-3' rest between circuits
S: climbing on nibs' board. Did better than what I expected.
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M- Nuffink
T- Nuffink. Did a few bicep curls
W - hour and a half session down the wall. Felt OK, already managing things I failed on last year. Should have stayed a bit longer, but got an aurora alert so went off with camera.
T - Nothing
F - packed, drove to Banff. Up watching and photographing aurora until about 1:30.
S - up at 7 - two hours great surf at Sandend. Went to Moray Monster trails. did about 20k on bike, fantastic single track. Gully Monster Black great fun - only fell off a couple of times, needs gorse cutting back in places though.
S - late start, long walk with family on beach near Montrose, glorious day.
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I will never complain about the journey time and cost to and from Malham again.
Well, I'll try not to at least.
Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk
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Looks (and sounds) amazing, good effort getting it done and sounds an amazing effort even getting to it over and over again.
Thanks! Yeah it is quite a faff as a day trip - about 50 minutes driving to the ferry terminal, usually about half an hour sitting in the car waiting to board, an hour and a half on the ferry, then about another 45-50 minutes driving to the cliff. And the ferry works out about $C100 each (~£60) if there are only two of you travelling. Pretty much every trip seems to include a discussion of how to make it easier, ranging from semi-sensible ideas (buy a cheap vehicle and leave it on the island) to stupid (float-plane ...). Anyway, it is easier than flying to Kalymnos - we are really lucky to have a proper tufa'ey limestone cliff within reach at all.
:o
How does that compare to the average Canadian's average trip to the crag? I once met a Canadian couple so drove two hours each way to their local crag.
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S. Steve bailed for Malham tomorrow so went to Crag X in afternoon. Still, cool and a bit midgy. Spent time nailing the top section of JR. Did twice from the rail and discovered a marginal heel/toe in the break in the process which helps when catching the thumb catch pinch. Tried several times from the ground but didnt quite get to hold the pinch. Good session. Optimistic about success now
Nice one Simon. Is X still all in good nick to date? Wondering whether it might be worth a look at Sean's after I hopefully drag myself up Paint it Black.
Forecast looks dry all this week still :)
Yes really good nick. The river has virtually dried up. If I don't get any takers for Malham tomorrow I'll be heading back there.
Was looking thru the UKC logbooks last night and seen that you'd done Moffatricity and couldn't square that with the travails you've had with the eatswood Traverse.
I think I find them similar difficulty overall if you have a kneepad on eatswood, but eatswood has got in my head more and I've had a couple of sessions in non ideal conditions. I had the opposite reaction to be honest ie was amazed how hard you were finding JR despite being able to do eatswood, as I don't think that move up is as hard as the eatswood crux in isolation! Each to their own :)
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It's almost as if traversing isn't that great training for upwards climbing.
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Ben Moon suggested doing interval training on the route ie trying to do bolt to horn twice with minimal rest on one go and another go horn to top 2/3 times. Its an intetresting tactic Id not considered before. At this stage though I think it is something to do next Spring if dont get it this season - after all it could start seeping soon.
Would love to have heard how this conversation panned out - "Hey thanks for the advice Ben, the best climber of your generation who last season made an unprecedented mid-life comeback doing hardest route you've ever done at age 48, but if it's all the same to you I'm gonna ignore that advice cheers mate".
:jaw:
:lol:
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Hope it goes well Toby.
cheers mate, all seemed ok for the moment, got some reassuring words from a consultant, and got shown some really interesting 3d headscans (my head obviously).
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It's almost as if traversing isn't that great training for upwards climbing.
:lol:
Perhaps more precisely only traversing isn't that great for upward climbing? Having said this, the redpoint crux of AO is a traverse for most people as far as i am aware. I didn't just look back at the thread again but I assume that was aimed at Simon?
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It's almost as if traversing isn't that great training for upwards climbing.
:lol:
Perhaps more precisely only traversing isn't that great for upward climbing? Having said this, the redpoint crux of AO is a traverse for most people as far as i am aware. I didn't just look back at the thread again but I assume that was aimed at Simon?
Yes hes got it in for me irrespective. Thank you pointing out that the redpoint crux of AO is a traverse. Ill add that the crux of JR is also sideways as is most of Moffatrocity
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Ben Moon suggested doing interval training on the route ie trying to do bolt to horn twice with minimal rest on one go and another go horn to top 2/3 times. Its an intetresting tactic Id not considered before. At this stage though I think it is something to do next Spring if dont get it this season - after all it could start seeping soon.
Would love to have heard how this conversation panned out - "Hey thanks for the advice Ben, the best climber of your generation who last season made an unprecedented mid-life comeback doing hardest route you've ever done at age 48, but if it's all the same to you I'm gonna ignore that advice cheers mate".
I am confused. Do the UKB power elite now consider it OK to recommend that Shark works on his stamina? It certainly didn't seem to be acceptable four months ago (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,27148.msg524918.html#msg524918).
I took it that Ben was advocating the climbing version of interval running - which is for getting faster
everyone thinks Shark should climb faster (except Shark)
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Yes hes got it in for me irrespective.
Brilliant. If I had it in for you I'd be outside your house at 2am slashing your tyres, not making tongue-in-cheek wisecracks on the web about not taking advice.
On the contrary, I would love you to achieve your stated goal of doing the Oak and using it as a tool to make you better at bouldering and go bouldering more.
As it is, I'm struggling to see how you can train for a route involving font 7b/+ climbing by rarely bouldering harder than a couple of grades below that level.
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Ben Moon suggested doing interval training on the route ie trying to do bolt to horn twice with minimal rest on one go and another go horn to top 2/3 times. Its an intetresting tactic Id not considered before. At this stage though I think it is something to do next Spring if dont get it this season - after all it could start seeping soon.
Would love to have heard how this conversation panned out - "Hey thanks for the advice Ben, the best climber of your generation who last season made an unprecedented mid-life comeback doing hardest route you've ever done at age 48, but if it's all the same to you I'm gonna ignore that advice cheers mate".
I am confused. Do the UKB power elite now consider it OK to recommend that Shark works on his stamina? It certainly didn't seem to be acceptable four months ago (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,27148.msg524918.html#msg524918).
He could probably do with a bit of both. I'd say more strength to regularly get through that low crux (if he could get through the first half of the route regularly he'd soon do the route). Moony's idea would be good for specific muscle memory and fitness but it would take a lot of motivation to make yourself do it and you might end up going stale on it mentally. It was getting stronger that got me up my project this year, probably a similar amount of moves. The fitness kicks in when you start getting to the end but like I said if you're getting there regularly success probably isn't far away.
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Mon. Bike hill repeats X 5 22.78 miles 1hr 31 mins.
Tue. Trying projects managed a couple of things.
Wed. Bike 1 hr 2 mins 17.92 miles intervals. Then Dolby Forrest with daughter and grandson, family ascent of Addlestone.
Thu. Board just went on to try 2 problems which I did.
Fri. Peak went to Bob's roof with Bob. Did about 8 problems, finished battered with no skin on fingers and right shin.
Sat/Sun family stuff with grandson.
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Yes hes got it in for me irrespective.
If I had it in for you I'd be outside your house at 2am slashing your tyres, not making tongue-in-cheek wisecracks on the web about not taking advice the Oak and using it
Umm ...thanks for clarifying that Dave. I think
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I'm not trying to be down on you, I'm trying to light a fire under you.
I'd be made up if you managed the route by a low percentage bloody minded war of attrition, I mean fuck me nobody could accuse you of not putting the hours in, but I thought that wasn't the point of picking a bouldery route that would force you to go bouldering and address bouldering weaknesses. Elephant in the room etc.
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Having said this, the redpoint crux of AO is a traverse for most people as far as i am aware.
Is it the cause of failure though? or is it the attrition from all the upwards climbing.
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STG: Heal finger
MTG: Get solid at 7B/+
LTG: 8A
M:
T:
W:
T:
F:
S: The cliff with 36C, also met andy_e :wave: Got beta sorted for Crusis, almost sent but sloper too sweaty (for me). Did C&A Traverse, worst 7A at the cliff? Failed to repeat several things
S: Burbage North, not feeling too strong. Flailed on Boyager and then went and tried a couple of the problems right of the Terrace. Did a 6C...
Poor week of sluggishness, finger still improving which is promising. I do feel really weak though
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worst 7A at the cliff?
Stu's Roof standing start (why is that even listed as a problem in it's own right?)
:worms:
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worst 7A at the cliff?
Stu's Roof standing start (why is that even listed as a problem in it's own right?)
Morrell's Wall Traverse, without a doubt.
Stu's stand is excellent Will. Did you just find it hard? :worms:
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36C is right, Stu's stand is a great warm-up in its own right.
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Hardest move on Stu's Roof!
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worst 7A at the cliff?
Stu's Roof standing start (why is that even listed as a problem in it's own right?)
Morrell's Wall Traverse, without a doubt.
C&A's pockets are even sharper than the ones on that traverse, at least you finish up a classic on that one too!
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Yes hes got it in for me irrespective. Thank you pointing out that the redpoint crux of AO is a traverse. Ill add that the crux of JR is also sideways as is most of Moffatrocity
Can I point out that the redpoint crux is font 7a/+ and the lower half is font 7b/+ :-\ And that you barely boulder that hard on limestone.
.. and that increased strength directly 'improves fitness' by way of the same moves not demanding from the stronger climber as much energy as they do from the weaker climber.
You've already the endurance of a marathon runner, but also the strength and power of one. Pretty well established that the quickest gains are made by working your weakest aspects out of strength/fitness/technique/head. Getting stronger than the route would have been your quickest path to sending it (or perhaps to you getting inured, in which case fair enough to you for eking out every last microdrop of fitness and avoiding power).
I hope you do it too, :hug: But talk sense!
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I have no opinion on what shark should do to improve his chances on the Oak.
STG: Moon Board 6B+
MTG (2016 not looking particularly realistic): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
M: Oktoberfest with work
T: Boulderwelt. Rather poor & desultory session. Not surprising see above.
Boulderwelt has installed a Moonboard, complete with LEDs & gimmicky app, but my carefully filtered playlist of soft 6B+'s kept being disrupted by people coming along and lighting up some 7C horrorshow. Need to try again some time when it's quieter.
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Not exactly a blazingly strong session, which is unsurprising considering the preceding four days: bouldering comp, big bike ride, biggest piss-up of the year in lieu of a rest day, longer than usual bouldering session. But the main reason I do routes at the wall on Wednesday is address book maintenance*. Was climbing with a chap I had't met before. He was a competent climber and belayer & we got on well. Turns out he's just getting back into climbing after a few years climbing related break - just as I was a few years ago - and similarly needs to rebuild his climbing partner address book. And is a former Kochel local and mate of Toni Lamprecht. Win.
T: Bike one hour.
F: ditto
S: City of Rocks: Dolomites sport climbing. Warmed up then had some goes on a nice looking 7b that went like this: 20 moves 7a-ish to a semi-reasonable shake-out -> brick hard crux -> no hands rest -> pleasant 6b finish that it would be a shame to fluff.
Did the 7a section ok with a couple of rests. Felt like I had no chance at all on the crux in isolation - my mate who has done lots of 7b's thought it was tough for the grade too - quite apart from building up the power endurance to do it after the pumpy 7a climbing to get to it.
So, 7b: hard but feasible if I can find the right one to project. But to get up one this year I would have to find one that isn't four hours drive from home, isn't at two thousand metres, stays dry throughout the autumn, doesn't have a totally ridiculous crux ... and then get lucky with the weather and the availability of motivated partners. Possible, but not probable.
S: Sella Pass: autumn arrives. Fog & light rain all day. Luckily we were staying at the very comfortable Rifugio Valentini (http://www.dolomitesrefugeandhut.it/) (run by the wife of the City of Rocks guidebook author, great food, recommended). Much time chilling out; spent an hour stretching and playing with the sling trainer my partner had brought with him; went for a walk in the afternoon to look at some more sectors in City of Rocks. Lots of great looking stuff there, definitely worth going again. In summer.
* an important aspect of climbing for which Kelvin is my hero and role model
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I have no opinion on what shark should do to improve his chances on the Oak.
Are you sure you've come to the right thread? :doubt:
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I know :shrug:
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Off topic but..
STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), in July October
MTG:
LTG: 8c, by June 2018
Strength phase
M.
T.
W. Pilbox wall after work. Good sesh trying Millenium, consistently holding the span into whisky bitch.
T. Flew to NI
F. Dalkey Quarry Dublin with GF. Good place! Easy tradTM
S. Lower Cove, Mournes with GF and her daughter. More easy tradTM, did Brewer's Gloom, nice route!
S.
M. Spent hours scoping lines on a rope at crag x. Eventually put lower-off in another newie, might be an 8, will find out in a few weeks when I'm next over.
Knackered from 3.30am shitty dog wake-up. Bouldering plans this week getting trashed by tiredness, not good just before starting to try Mecca again.
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Kelvin is my hero and role model
I hadn't realised things had taken such a big turn for the worse. I'm sure there must be a local Doc who specialises in delusional behavior.
* as an aside - you're plenty good enough for 7b if you're still climbing like you were when we went to WCJ. Like you say, it's a matter of finding the right one and I think also, having a partner that gives you the confidence to chuck yourself at it.
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I have no opinion on what shark should do to improve his chances on the Oak.
Are you sure you've come to the right thread? :doubt:
Will power club even continue when Shark finally does it??
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36C is right, Stu's stand is a great warm-up in its own right.
And it's 7A+....
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Yes hes got it in for me irrespective.
If I had it in for you I'd be outside your house at 2am slashing your tyres, not making tongue-in-cheek wisecracks on the web about not taking advice the Oak and using it
Umm ...thanks for clarifying that Dave. I think
That was me... in revenge for spurning me for Mina....
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Goal - Font 7anything by arrival of TTT Jnr mk 2 (Feb 2017)
M - Started new job, information overload. Shattered once I got home.
T - More of the same.
W - Depot after work, decent run around V3-V5 Reds, made harder by ridiculous temp / sweatiness.
T - Nowt
F - Nowt
S - Nowt, nice trip to local library "Lego club" though.
S - Pass out agreed, decent weather...obviously it took me till about 1pm to actually get out of the house, then when I got out roadworks prevented me from being able to leave my village. After about 30 mins escaped by a different route and ended up taking easy option and going to Woodhouse Scar, only to get spanked (again) on Johnny Longer (6c+), a pretty arbitrary sit start to a 6a, but still giving me trouble. Got in a bit of a huff, sacked it off and decided to check out West Vale on way back. Probably a bit of an acquired taste, but for those seeking a bit of "old skool" fun I reckon it's decent. Did U2 Wall (6b+ apparently) and then got stuck into a 7a sit start to the Scott Is Bent arete. Reckon it's a go-er, it's just pretty highball / scary so hopefully get back there with more pads and a gullible / willing spotter.
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M: Rest
T: Plas Power - Did a few easy routes and helped out mate who is new to climbing. Messed about on a couple of my old harder problems on the 20' board and did a problem on the 40'.
W: Rest
T: Re-equipped an old 7a
F: Rest
S: Rest
S: First session on new proj I bolted last Sunday. Harder than I expected, took the whole session to work out the moves but psyched to do them all. Felt about 7b+/c but hard to tell until links are done!