UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: haydn jones on September 01, 2018, 10:53:11 pm
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Polish Dave has gone and slain the beast that is the sit start to Sean's roof. This adds an 8A boulder into the existing 8A+.
When polish Dave did it today he opted to use no knee bars. It has very recently been found that kneebars exist on both problems bring the two grades down to 7C+ and 8A. This could potentially bring the overall grade to 8B. It's to be noted that Dave said he doesn't mind the use of kneebars on the problem but just preferred to opt out of there use.
Belayed by his son whos only 14 after I taught him to belay at the foundry. Apparently I'm such a good teacher Dave only decked twice :lol:
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Brilliant addition Dawid :beer2:
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Nice one Dawid.
I tried this quite a bit in late July and early August, dropping the last cut loose just before going to Norway. Felt like it would be 8B+ with no knee use to me too.
Such a great line!
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Fantastic news, well done Dawid!
First James Squire climbing his Biblin's project now this; great couple of weeks for British bouldering.
Is there video? It'd be great to see.
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Any ideas about the name Haydn?
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The name rings to a recent sudden death of a family friend, also a ring towards I and Joachim climbing love continued and not being cured by any a potion, lastly a nod towards Shelley works.
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The name rings to a recent sudden death of a family friend, also a ring towards I and Joachim climbing love continued and not being cured by any a potion, lastly a nod towards Shelley works.
Well that's quite a few reasons right there.
Although I think of it as a boulder problem and therefore a boulder grade, if done on a rope should it not get a route grade?
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Although I think of it as a boulder problem and therefore a boulder grade, if done on a rope should it not get a route grade?
Would be 9A surely?
Remus, get him on the list!
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Although I think of it as a boulder problem and therefore a boulder grade, if done on a rope should it not get a route grade?
Would be 9A surely?
Remus, get him on the list!
Haha! I agree with Dawid, that it deserves a boulder grade but just not heard of much stuff done on a rope but given a Font grade.
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I also think boulder grade is more appropriate.
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This is awesome. Really pleased for Dawid. This line has been his big project for a few years now, ever since he first did the sitstarts to the bottom half. This last year he's thrown everything at it, and then news that various capable climbers were getting interested added urgency! Instagram posts showing kneebar sequences created a bit of stress too - he was so close with his sequence, and suddenly people were saying there was an easier way... He did briefly experiment with them, but decided they were quite fiddly and he already had his way wired.
(As an aside, looks like the top kneebar might only help tall people, so perhaps not a grade changer for most?)
Anyway, top stuff!
Would be 9A surely?
Remus, get him on the list!
He did the FA of an 8c+ at the Tor a while back. I assumed he wasn't on the list because he's not British.
Is there video? It'd be great to see.
Yeah. Coming soon to an internet near you...
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Top bloke Polish Dave
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Nice one Dawid!
(As an aside, looks like the top kneebar might only help tall people, so perhaps not a grade changer for most?)
Anyway, top stuff!
The one for the first move on Sean's? Yeah - that's height dependent I think; not sure what the cut-off is, but Stu was too short to make it work - he could get the knee in but couldn't manage to get to the next hold. The sequence at the top of Sean's which avoids the swing can be made to work whatever height you are (doesn't involve knees).
Belayed by his son whos only 14 after I taught him to belay at the foundry. Apparently I'm such a good teacher Dave only decked twice :lol:
I think you have to deck off the end in order to avoid dabbing the rope. Even when not taking a cut I fell moving my feet on Sean's and hit the floor on stretch as you need a bunch of slack. A rope is nice for when you've got your heel locked in the hole though.
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Polish Dave has repeated his new route mortal immortal this time not taking a rope. Could this be the world's first 9a solo!?!
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Haha! It's a top effort, but no. I assume you are ignoring enduro boulder 9as like Wheel of Life and Pilgrimmage because there are no bolts, or highball V14s for the same reason... but The Fly in Rumney is a sport 9a that has been highballed at least twice (there's a youtube vid of Kevin Jorgeson doing it).
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Also Es Pontas and Alasha if you count deepwater.
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Deep water doesn't count!
I'll give Kevin it though haha
I only posted it as a throw back to when Sean's roof got done I believe it Go soloed and claimed the "world's first 8c solo"
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Yeah, 8c version soloed before the pad era though!
Jason Kehl soloed The Fly in 2003, but no vid. KJ did it five years later.
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Good effort Dave!
Neither this nor The Fly can claim to be sport routes in my opinion, they're highball boulder problems (and Sean's isn't even that high! Just scary with the heel lock). My 9a comment from before was purely tongue in cheek.
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And he was enough of a gentleman to not top it out and leave that for me.
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And he was enough of a gentleman to not top it out and leave that for me.
Will it get an E grade then?
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Will it get an E grade then?
Only if he doesn't use pads ;)
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And he was enough of a gentleman to not top it out and leave that for me.
Will it get an E grade then?
:lol: I don't even think it's very scary. It wouldn't get bolted now, it's very much a boulder problem.
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Bit hommish using a rope really isn’t it.
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Bit hommish using a rope really isn’t it.
No comment :P
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How’s it going Dave? I see IG/FB pics of seas of foam under the roof so assume you’re in seige mode?
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I have had 14 sessions on Sean's, Floodgate and the link. Fallen off with my hand on the finishing jug 5 times, the last move is very on and off unfortunately, got there and felt quite fresh yesterday but my foot popped as I went. I can't leave my foot in the hole to get the jug so it adds a fair bit of difficulty, especially as it's after 17 moves. Also obviously not wearing any rubber on my legs ;)
It's by far the hardest thing I have ever tried. For me it feels mid grade 8A into 8A+ with the red point crux being the last move.
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Just use my beta at the end! No rubber and no hard moves... (p.s. being in Verdon serves to remind my why I'll always use knees when available, if only as training for the greater ranges, think I used 20+ of them on the route I did today)
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Haha nice. I have tried your beta at the end the release is easier off the undercut but the roll over move is strange. Don't like it with your or Stu's feet options.