UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Doylo on March 28, 2004, 10:59:57 pm
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Steel fingered adolescent James 'darse' Pearson repeated Mo Overfields's Bohemian Groove at Millstone today in a mere 50 minutes. James thought the grade of V13 was probably a tad generous but reckoned Mo used a slightly different sequence after watching the vid of him doing it on Crag X. Young Jimbo suggested V11 might be nearer the mark. Nice1 conker.
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Yeah, but whats he ever done at Curbar?
(Nice one James) :wink:
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good effort man, as always I am very impressed! I'm suprised you bothered to even pull on after looking at it... see you soon onky.
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We just happened to be walking past and so I went for a look because I had never seen it. Safe to say I wasnt too impressed :D . I thought all the holds looked quite good so I fancied a go. We didnt even have a mat so I did it ol' school style :8) and used rucksacs and a rope to protect my fragile little bones :lol: .
It wasnt a path and I had to bone down realy hard and I was quite suprised when I topped out. I dont realy have the slightest idea what grade it was, I have enough trouble distinguishing projects from E3 6b's (thanks for shattering my world Harry :wink: ).
Last night, I spoke to the other guy who has repeated it (no, not Si'O :wink: ) and he said that it was as hard as any 8a+ he had done and that it probably was 8b by the sequence that Mo used?
It is also alot easier if you use the arete for your left hand at the bottom, you miss out the crux and most of the other hard climbing on the problem, he reconed 7c/+ if you did it that way.
I dunno, its a mad, crazy world.
Cheers
James
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James, you're a hard little bastard! but you're right, it is pretty crap looking, and probably quite eliminatey... nevertheless, you boned down and sent the bad boy! what next?
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you boned down
God I feel old and out of touch with the (steely fingered) yoof of today :wink:
WTF is boned down supposed to mean? Is this a mutation of bearing down? Sounds like pr0no terminology to me....
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"boning" often means learning/revising, such as "i was boning up on thermodynamics last night". but i think in this case it might refer to holding holds so hard that you imagine your bones are on the holds, maybe.
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you boned down
Makes you think twice about leaving your Rab lying about at the bottom of the crag :shock: . In my day pockets were for putting hands in.
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Who's the other person to repeat it James?
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Rumour has it that Mick Adams has done it. And according to Si O Connors scorecard he's done it too. :roll:
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Speaking of which i looked at his scorecard the other day and it was down as 8b, he's now changed it too 8a+ with the comment '8a+ tops'. Funny that.
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And according to Si O Connors scorecard he's done it too. :roll:
:onsight: :?:
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fair do's but although James is a rite good little climber he ain't of the calibre that knocks off v12 in 50 minutes yet (i.e. world class), and he's a midget.
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No it isn't!
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i dont get how the foots used on the arete but not the hands
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youth didn't use foot on arete. i don't agree wi u chris on sayin that he's not v12 calibre yet. there r many types of v12 n he has got steel fingers, even tho it's a bit of self lovin to put it next to your name. :wink: u don't need to look like your avatar to do every v12. not that i'm confirmin the grade!
this ascent however pales into insignificance with what was goin on the day b4 at higgar, some sick, twisted, can't begin to let the thoughts enter my head :shock:
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dense, please no mention of higgar tor, its a place where many a strange event has taken place. re bohemian - the lines shit, but the fingers are strong no doubt.
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mash potato for tea tonight was it si? Give my regards to Hugh.
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Actually 52 minutes Chris :o
The old school bouldering mat of 2 rucksacks, a rope and some grass was just the thing. Only thing that was missing was a Tetleys beer towel!
The old school brigade would have been proud of it and the first ascent without a pad :wink: :wink:
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dense, please no mention of higgar tor, its a place where many a strange event has taken place. re bohemian - the lines shit, but the fingers are strong no doubt.
I'd keep it quite if I was you Si. Young lads prancing around in boxers :wink: Enough said!
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dense, please no mention of higgar tor, its a place where many a strange event has taken place. re bohemian - the lines shit, but the fingers are strong no doubt.
I'd keep it quite if I was you Si. Young lads prancing around in boxers :wink: Enough said!
Expected to see this on the DVD, but not a sniffle. Perhaps a good thing :shock:
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Ha ha you lot can jibe all you like, but im in ireland and the weather is ace and im going climbing see ya!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!