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the shizzle => news => Topic started by: gollum on October 13, 2005, 11:58:44 am

Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: gollum on October 13, 2005, 11:58:44 am
13/10/2005
POSTED BY: BEN MOON
STOP PRESS! RICH SIMPSON REPEATS ACTION DIRECT

Fuller story on Moon site.

Mega effort!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: SA Chris on October 13, 2005, 12:02:22 pm
Brilliant Effort from the lad. Nice one Buoux 9a.
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: dave on October 13, 2005, 12:14:53 pm
thats not a bad effort.
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Bonjoy on October 13, 2005, 12:19:41 pm
Fine effort!! I was getting concerned that all the advanced publicity might create too much pressure, but the boy produced the goods, brilliant.
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: BenF on October 13, 2005, 12:22:42 pm
A great effort and well done indeed, but not exactly surprising...  Simpsons ticklist from the past few months is unbelievable.  Something silly like 34 8a to 8c+ routes in his six weeks in the Frankenjura according to that report in the latest Friction magazine.  Plus all the stuff in Buoux and the UK in between trips to Germany.

Stupidly strong and far too much talent; you reckon he would lend me some?
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Mr.Burns on October 13, 2005, 12:25:16 pm
Brilliant effort!!!

The guy is tooo strong!!

Violent new breed next?
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: unclesomebody on October 13, 2005, 12:25:36 pm
not just talent mate, a lot of fucking hard work...

Great effort to Rich. He battled against shitty conditions for weeks, and then some friendly rivalry with Dai Koyamada.  I'm sure he'll give a full report when he get's a chance.

It's a fine effort from a fine climber... so, what's next??? 9a+?
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Nigel on October 13, 2005, 12:28:03 pm
Awesome. A brilliant effort and the very least he deserves for the unbelievable effort he has put in over the (relatively few!) years. Thumbs up Rich!
Title: Re: A tick worth getting
Post by: Falling Down on October 13, 2005, 12:31:12 pm
Brilliant - good effort Krankenfuhrer
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: BenF on October 13, 2005, 12:45:15 pm
Quote from: "unclesomebody"
not just talent mate, a lot of fucking hard work...


True, I didn't mean to degrade his effort and persistence by any stretch, the amount of work involved goes without saying.  Plus his willingness to head over there again to bag the route is something few people would do.  A huge talent nonetheless.
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: casa on October 13, 2005, 12:53:26 pm
Yeah big up the lad. Top effort. Stay strong
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Stubbs on October 13, 2005, 12:56:36 pm
effort, what a beast  :shock:
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: dobbin on October 13, 2005, 01:02:35 pm
Woooargh! thats a mega effort! good effort the Simpsonator!
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: andy_e on October 13, 2005, 01:14:18 pm
uberwaddage homie! certainly strong.
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Paul B on October 13, 2005, 01:26:16 pm
awseome!
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: ned on October 13, 2005, 01:43:57 pm
very well done.  :D
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Yossarian on October 13, 2005, 04:29:19 pm
Wir gratulieren!

Darf ich Sie mit meiner Sekretärin bekanntmachen...
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Palomides on October 13, 2005, 05:43:04 pm
Lumpi ist mien hunt.


(Which I think is German for "Bon effort")
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: andy_e on October 13, 2005, 06:08:50 pm
Quote from: "Yossarian"
Wir gratulieren!

Darf ich Sie mit meiner Sekretärin bekanntmachen...

nee, weil sie seit 1962 Tod ist, aba ich kenne einen jungen Mann, der du kennen lernen mussen, weil die beide Schwul sind.
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: andy_e on October 13, 2005, 06:10:11 pm
Quote from: "Palomides"
Lumpi ist mien hunt.


(Which I think is German for "Bon effort")

bollocks. is that the only german you know? i seem to remmeber you posting it on the french topic...
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Johnny Brown on October 13, 2005, 07:33:19 pm
A fine effort to be sure, but what's he ever done on the grit? :wink:
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: JR on October 13, 2005, 07:53:44 pm
Quote from: "Johnny Brown"
A fine effort to be sure, but what's he ever done on the grit? :wink:


not as much as he should have done methinks, but as for the bransby word on the street is he's done the roof left of parolagism? E8 7a?
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: cowboyhat on October 13, 2005, 07:54:27 pm
The wit is really flying on this thread! Baaaaa!

A dogo fforte!
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Yossarian on October 14, 2005, 08:24:17 am
Quote from: "cowboyhat"
The wit is really flying on this thread! Baaaaa!

A dogo fforte!


Te audire no possum. Musa sapientum fixa est in aure.
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Bonjoy on October 14, 2005, 09:25:57 am
Quote from: "JR"
...bransby word on the street is he's done the roof left of parolagism? E8 7a?

 Have given this news a thread of it's own.
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: tc on October 14, 2005, 11:56:40 am
Quote from: "Yossarian"
Quote from: "cowboyhat"
The wit is really flying on this thread! Baaaaa!

A dogo fforte!


Te audire no possum. Musa sapientum fixa est in aure.


Actually, the proper form would be the colloquial: "Te audire non possum est. Musa fixa in aure sapientum est."
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: tc on October 14, 2005, 12:06:03 pm
Eine geile Leistung, Junge. Schade, dass man für diese Züge ein Seil auspacken muss!
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Doylo on October 14, 2005, 12:10:47 pm
he´s a very happy young man. Didn´t take him too long either as he only had two really good days on it this trip and did it in his first session of redpoints. what a guy :!:
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: andy_e on October 14, 2005, 12:11:59 pm
Quote from: "tc"
Eine geile Leistung, Junge. Schade, dass man für diese Züge ein Seil auspacken muss!

jo seile sind nur fuer doofe leute, die zu viel zeit haben
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Yossarian on October 14, 2005, 12:28:34 pm
Quote from: "tc"
Quote from: "Yossarian"
Quote from: "cowboyhat"
The wit is really flying on this thread! Baaaaa!

A dogo fforte!


Te audire no possum. Musa sapientum fixa est in aure.


Actually, the proper form would be the colloquial: "Te audire non possum est. Musa fixa in aure sapientum est."


i stand corrected. i was always shit at latin...
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: tc on October 14, 2005, 12:41:30 pm
Quote from: "andi_e"
Quote from: "tc"
Eine geile Leistung, Junge. Schade, dass man für diese Züge ein Seil auspacken muss!

jo seile sind nur fuer doofe leute, die zu viel zeit haben


Die Zeit mit ihrem stetigen Schweigen
lehrt uns mehr
als die Menschen mit ihrem stetigen Reden.
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: moose on October 14, 2005, 12:43:42 pm
After only one real session... crikey, what a beast!  Very well done indeed (for whatever the approbation of complete stranges is worth).  

Whatever next though? He certainly doesn't seem to like taking easy options when it comes to breaking through grades.  Liquid Amber, Hubble and Action Direct all have reputations as "full value" - I don't think any of them attract complaints of polish anyway! Have any of the >9a routes got the requisite classic status... or will he have to make his own?

Off to watch the perky-pinky video for a bit of inspiration / worship....
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: dave on October 14, 2005, 01:10:37 pm
would have thought that realisation was a fully classic 9a+ or whatever it is, but of course being longer does it have the same power-kudos as these uber-gnarly shorter routes?

would have thought contenders aught to include that gaskins thing at giggleswizzle, evolution, the fly, and must be some crazy loskoy 9s'a tucked away in austria. and of course the brandenberg gate project, and that project line next to caviar?
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: moose on October 14, 2005, 01:25:24 pm
I guess Realisation is the nearest to a classic 9a+ there is.  Though I see what you mean about power kudos.  I mean anybody at this level is an absolute waddage but, personally, I still have more interest in those who climb stuff requring depraved quantities of power rather than the ability to delay being pumped (Gaskins rather than "wheel of life" stylee).  Second ascent of Akira maybe!?
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Bonjoy on October 14, 2005, 01:39:13 pm
I doubt Akira will get a second ascent. Rumour has it that Dani Andrada went over to try it and quickly managed all the moves, but on a return visit Rhouling had sika'd some positive holds to make them into slopers :shock: .  Understandably Andrada bagged off trying it.
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Bonjoy on October 14, 2005, 01:40:16 pm
BTW did you get the ascent on fillum Doylo? :P
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Bubba on October 14, 2005, 02:51:38 pm
(http://ukbouldering.com/media/images/actionDirect.jpg)

(thanks to Richie Patterson at Wild Country (http://www.wildcountry.co.uk/) for the picture)
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: cofe on October 14, 2005, 02:53:27 pm
is he biting his nails cos he's nervous? or does he have some parsley stuck between his teeth?

looks steep, i'm guessing it's tilted about 90deg counterclockwise.
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Stubbs on October 14, 2005, 02:56:59 pm
Yeah, those trees must be growing at an odd angle, or do you think it's some rapid photoshop work?
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: cofe on October 14, 2005, 02:59:00 pm
must be bonjoy...

amateur.
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: unclesomebody on October 15, 2005, 05:45:58 pm
Dai Koyomada has just made the 7th Ascent. Great effort from (probably) the strongest little man around! " 5 ascents in 15 years... then 2 ascents in one week... awesome.
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: saltbeef on October 15, 2005, 11:52:11 pm
Hey Unkle.

Nice one Rich, amazing effort you beast!

I'm shit with history but is this the first British ascent of a 9a outside of Britain?
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Huffy on October 15, 2005, 11:58:28 pm
That last post was from me, forget that foley is logged on automatically.

Nice one once again Rich, must feel amazing.

Huff
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Terrace Ghost on October 16, 2005, 09:39:26 am
i think you are right Huff, first 9a for a brit abroad.

on a different note huff, a different thread talked about malc closing a number 2 iron.  Thats f***ing impressive.  Basically closing 200lbs.  
cant remember what you said you got on your physio test, was it 160lbs?

there is a number 3 and 4 iron crush.  The number 4 has only been closed by either 3 or 4 people
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Huffy on October 16, 2005, 07:33:26 pm
I think i got 170lbs grip after icing...

Yeah, read that too, thought you'd know what a number 2 iron is. I heard there are two brothers in the states who've closed a number 4.

First brit to do 9a abroad eh, thats impressive...
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: cofe on October 17, 2005, 10:34:56 am
i once hit a 4 iron over 400yds. was always hooking or slicing woods. 2 iron never had enough loft. it's all in the hips.
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Johnny Brown on October 17, 2005, 10:38:58 am
Quote
i once hit a 4 iron over 400yds.


Amazing! What happened, did the head come off? How far did the ball go? Did it strike anybody's foot?
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: cofe on October 17, 2005, 10:40:58 am
i'd just like to point out i'm not actually a golfer, i'm a hockey player.
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: squeek on October 17, 2005, 01:37:27 pm
Quote from: "Bonjoy"
BTW did you get the ascent on fillum Doylo? :P


I reckon he probably did:
https://www.moonclimbing.com/index.php?form_action=photo_detail&photo_id=55&offset=36
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: a dense loner on October 17, 2005, 05:07:11 pm
so dai wasn't injured then?
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Doylo on October 17, 2005, 05:48:49 pm
watch this space for the film!
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: r-man on October 17, 2005, 06:08:59 pm
Quote from: "Bonjoy"
I doubt Akira will get a second ascent. Rumour has it that Dani Andrada went over to try it and quickly managed all the moves, but on a return visit Rhouling had sika'd some positive holds to make them into slopers :shock: .  Understandably Andrada bagged off trying it.


This link was posted on ukc. Article by some bloke who went to see Rouhling do the moves on Akira and came away with a very different impression than he'd expected... http://climbing.com/current/fredrouhling/
(http://climbing.com/current/CLB-0407-FRED-06.jpg)
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Bubba on October 17, 2005, 06:21:40 pm
Quote from: "r-man"
This link was posted on ukc....


ahem! (http://ukbouldering.com/board/viewtopic.php?t=2359&highlight=roughling)  ;)
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: r-man on October 17, 2005, 06:34:23 pm
Sorry Bubba, missed that one! As ever ukb is a year ahead of ukc. Though it's a great shame that uka.com went bust.
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Paz on October 17, 2005, 06:37:28 pm
Quote from: "a dense loner"
so dai wasn't injured then?


Maybe he only injured one finger and used one of the four others from that hand.  Which finger do people use on monos, and which on action directe then?  I have to know.
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Bubba on October 17, 2005, 06:51:36 pm
Quote from: "r-man"
Though it's a great shame that uka.com went bust.

:lol:
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: unclesomebody on October 17, 2005, 07:00:51 pm
Dai injured his ring finger on his right hand (i think), so he just used his front 2 fingers instead! For the mono's you use your middle finger and how many mono's you use depends on your sequence...

back to impressive grip strength feats: http://www.castledarkmoor.com/strongman/fryingpan.WMV
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Huffy on October 17, 2005, 10:58:33 pm
Where the hell did you find that?!

Jus did a google search:

http://www.bodybuilding.com/fun/mashmonster.htm


Check out the vid's of these Mash monsters...must be harder than it looks to close that thing!
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Huffy on October 17, 2005, 11:30:06 pm
you've got me going now. the following lifted from

http://www.bodybuilding.com/fun/par15.htm

'Training Your Crushing Grip:

To train for maximum crushing grip strength, there are some simple methods available. The most cost effective manner in which to train crushing strength is with "hand grippers" that you attempt to close by squeezing the handles. Most of us have seen the little plastic grippers at the sporting goods store. Unfortunately, I'm not talking about that kind. Ironmind Enterprises sells a set of grippers called "Captains of Crush" grippers ($19.95 ea, order info) in a series of five difficulty levels. Here is a quick breakdown of the grippers and their difficulty level:

    * Trainer: 100 lb pressure

    * Number One: 140 lb pressure

    * Number Two: 195 lb pressure

    * Number Three: 280 lb pressure

    * Number Four: 360 lb pressure

These grippers have set the standard for testing crushing grip strength. To put things in perspective, fewer than 100 men in the world have successfully closed the #3 gripper with one hand. Most guys can't close the #1 on the first try and fewer will close the #2. So far, ONE man (JB Kinney) has closed the #4 gripper under authenticated conditions. (View the complete list here.)'

Vid of a guy from Diesel crew trying a number 2...

http://www.mashmonster.com/jeddjohnsonmmg2a.wmv

This is a shit but very funny video of the 'Diesel Crew' hitting some 'pull up variations...diesel stylee!' (don't watch unless you have sound!)

http://www.dieselcrew.com/VIDEOS/pullup%20variations.wmv

I'd start worrying Rich, one of these guys manages THREE PULLUPS IN A ROW! :shock:  :?
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Terrace Ghost on October 18, 2005, 01:40:19 pm
Magnus Samuelsson

Arms Magnus arms has rendered him the top position in the world in the event Arm over Arm. Very few, if any, can beat him in events demanding arm strength. At this, Magnus is quite simply the best  
 
Shoulder/Chest Thanks to his immensely strong upper body, Magnus is always among the best at pressing events His best bench press is 270 kg!  
 
Back/legs Magnus has developed this muscle groups during the later years, And is now often in the top three in events such as The Yoke, Truck pull and Carry&Drag. These muscle groups have together with his incredible arm strength rendered him the nickname "King of Stones" among strongmen.  
 
His mind Magnus is known to have a very strong mind in competing. Should his enormous strength run out, he can keep going on sheer willpower. The heavier it gets, the better Magnus likes it…  
 
Hands Magnus has tremendous gripping power, he was among the first 20 people in the world to fully close the Captains of Crush no 3 gripper.
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: r-man on October 18, 2005, 02:10:35 pm
I know I posted this elsewhere, but hey.

Quote
Purchase good handgrippers. I don't mean those plastic grippers you get at K-Mart, I mean something like Captains Of Crush, Beef Builders, HeavyGrips, etc. I'd go with the Captains of Crush since they are the gold standard for grippers. They come in the following sizes.

Guide - 60 lbs - Twice as strong as a store-bought hand gripper, in all likelihood you will be able to close this with each hand, but not casually for endless reps while watching TV or on a roadtrip like you could with the smaller sporting goods store handgrippers, which rate at 30-40 lbs.

Sport - 80 lbs - A step up from the Guide, however you should be able to close it for at least one rep, which would be about average hand strength. It's called the sport because it's a size generally used by athletes to get the clicks out of their hands before playing their sport.

Trainer - 100 lbs - A step up from the Sport, and the first in the heavy section of the CoC. A good many, however not a majority, should be able to close this on the first try. For serious grip training, start here.

Number 1 - 140 lbs - Buy this if you have mastered the Trainer or you have unusually strong hands. Very few people will be able to close this on the first try, however, it has been done. This is a gripper good for bar bets.

Number 2 - 195 lbs - Coming in at just shy of 200 lbs, this CoC will provide a challenge for nearly everybody, however being able to close this gripper for reps is far from unattainable. This gripper is excellent for bar bets, and has the bonus feature of being able to embarass Joe Cool at your gym.

Number 3 - 280 lbs - A giant leap to the next gripper, this is the one that determines whether or not you are elite. Only 110 or so men have been able to close this in the past decade. If you can close this, you are given a special certifficate signifying that you have impressive grip strength. This gripper was handed to various top bodybuilders at the Arnold Expo, and only one was able to close it. This will win just about every bar bet.

Number 4 - 365 lbs - Only five men have ever closed this gripper. If you can close it on your first try, then you apparently are Superman in disguise. An excellent training tool for Clark Kent and the top goal for us normal humans. If you want an otherworldly grip, set your sights on this. This will win every bar bet.


Has anyone ever had a go on one of those dynamometer grip-strength test thingies? I had a go on one when I was getting physio after breaking my wrist.
(http://www.nexgenergo.com/ergonomics/images/baseline1a.jpg)


______________



 :lol: Just found this on the web. This'll really sort the men from the mice:

http://www.ugobasile.com/0e92c5-2.htm?OpenDocument




______________

More gripping stuff here:

Quote
This third test is of utmost importance for the wrestlers' future career, especially for those who will adopt the yotsu style (wrestling body to body with a grip on the mawashi). In this test the grip of potential recruits is evaluated, trying to determine how well they will be able to grab their opponent's mawashi so that he will not be able to break their hold. To do that, the NSK uses a little hand-held apparatus, as shown in the pictures. The candidate has to close his fist as strong as he can, and the apparatus registers the maximal deployed force.


(http://www.lemondedusumo.com/english/MDS8_tests_pics/image016.jpg)For your information, common mortals have a grip strength of 50 kgf, but the greatest mawashi specialists largely surpass that value. Currently Kaio is the uncontested master as far as the grip is concerned, with100 kgf for his left and 110 kgf for his right hand. Able to crush an apple in his hand, Kaio doubtlessly boasts the most powerful fists in Sumo history. But the grip is not everything... On the contrary, with an average grip force of 50 kgf for both hands one can have a fine purely yotsu career, as demonstrated by the 66th Yokozuna Wakanohana, who was able to compensate for it by the strength of his legs!
(http://www.lemondedusumo.com/english/MDS8_tests_pics/image020.jpg)
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: tatanka on October 20, 2005, 11:44:43 pm
Quote from: "unclesomebody"
Dai Koyomada has just made the 7th Ascent. Great effort from (probably) the strongest little man around! " 5 ascents in 15 years... then 2 ascents in one week... awesome.


First interview/press release of Dai Koyamada after his send on FreakClimbing.com (http://www.freakclimbing.com/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=812)

He said he did it with his sequence.
It's incredible how many sequences you can get out of 11 moves!

 :lol:
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: dom on October 22, 2005, 03:43:08 pm
Action Direct gets its 8th ascent.  3rd in a week!  This time by Markus Bock.
Reported on 8a.nu
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: saltbeef on October 23, 2005, 06:01:47 pm
must be getting trade route status... fine effort all concerned. i'm gonna go hang off some mono's Im inspired!
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: tatanka on October 27, 2005, 11:01:42 am
Quote from: "dom"
Action Direct gets its 8th ascent.  3rd in a week!  This time by Markus Bock.
Reported on 8a.nu


Markus has just released an interview on FreakClimbing.com (http://www.freakclimbing.com/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=822)

 :lol:
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Bubba on October 27, 2005, 12:15:24 pm
Freakclimbing want to get a few more ads and links crammed in around the content ;)
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: saltbeef on October 27, 2005, 11:08:57 pm
you're telling me! i thought i was gonna have a fit with all those things flashing about! makes it really difficult to read...
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: dobbin on October 28, 2005, 08:31:50 am
The emails they send are quite irritating too, e.g. :-

Quote
Hey gringos,
ready for the weekend?!?

Well, get a bit of extra motivation with our series "the protagonists insights" as usual... FROM CLIMBERS TO CLIMBERS!

This time we went for Markus Bock and his impressions on Action Directe!
http://www.freakclimbing.com/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=822

Enjoy your climbing!



- FreakClimbing.com Staff


Who proofs their output?
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: FreakClimbing on October 28, 2005, 10:43:05 am
Quote from: "dobbin"
The emails they send are quite irritating too, e.g. :-



Hey Dobbin,
here we are I'm a member of FreakClimbing staff.
Cheers for the feedback about the flashy stuff etc.

With regard to the newsletter, if U don't consider it useful or in line with your comunicative standards, you can simply unsubscribe yourself.

Any other comment is welcome  :wink:

Climb well!
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: dobbin on October 28, 2005, 10:48:52 am
Cheers!  :D  - I think its the trans atlantic language variation rearing its head...

You yanks mean well but sound insincere  :wink:
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: FreakClimbing on October 28, 2005, 10:57:36 am
Quote from: "dobbin"
Cheers!  :D  - I think its the trans atlantic language variation rearing its head...

You yanks mean well but sound insincere  :wink:


Next time I'll send you a video-newsletter so you can check out my expression when saying things  :lol:

Jocking dobbin!

Sorry man, but I got English from experience and not in my genes  :wink:

Anyway, given your suggestion I'll try to take out those flashy stuff!

how are conditions down there in UK at present?
good for a bit of bouldering action?
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: FreakClimbing on October 28, 2005, 11:03:17 am
PS: don't you enjoy when you read our news with a bit of continental shity english?
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: dobbin on October 28, 2005, 01:44:28 pm
:lol: Hey, its all good!  :lol:

I am loving to see all the news good on the freak climbing.  :wink:
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Yossarian on October 28, 2005, 02:10:52 pm
for sure... dat is supercool
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Buoux 8C on November 01, 2005, 02:15:51 pm
Some good pics of action directe up on courtesy of Alex (pigeon) Messenger,

http://www.snowfire.co.uk/action/


was a little dark for the photo shoot but still have some interesting pics also look out for Chris Doyles amateur action directe/frankenjura pr0n dvd. Thanks rich
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Greg C on November 01, 2005, 02:52:30 pm
Nice pics Rich!

Well you have busted out everything else hard in Europe isn't it about time you got on Walk Away? It was dry yesterday, and 11 degrees today.

Prime meat?
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Palomides on November 01, 2005, 02:59:28 pm
(http://www.snowfire.co.uk/action/images/dsc_0269_toned_digital.jpg)

Well cool.
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: saltbeef on November 01, 2005, 05:25:14 pm
Quote from: "Greg C"
Nice pics Rich!

Well you have busted out everything else hard in Europe isn’t it about time you got on Walk Away? It was dry yesterday, and 11 degrees today.

Prime meat?


There's more to life than the lakes...
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Fiend on November 01, 2005, 08:36:44 pm
Quote
Well cool.


Indeed. Some very nice photos. Although it makes you wonder why this tendonitis-fest is the most popular F9a on the planet  :shock:
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: saltbeef on November 01, 2005, 10:37:22 pm
have you no pulse?! obviously if you've actually seen it then you'll realise it looks like one of the most improbable things in the world. damn fine effort to anyone who can drag their sorry ass up it.
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: dobbin on November 02, 2005, 09:21:20 am
Where is the 1-5-9 tee from?! I must have one!

(perhaps I should just get 1-4-7 though, do you have to be able to do 1-5-9?)

Fantastic pics and fantastic effort. I want to go back and do slingshot (8a+ to the right) just to say I have done a route at WadKopf. (spelling mistake deliberate!)
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Ru on November 02, 2005, 09:30:58 am
Quote
I want to go back and do slingshot (8a+ to the right)


Slimline, and me too.
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: dobbin on November 02, 2005, 09:34:55 am
Bollocks. There is a route called SLingshot somewhere in the jura though isnt there?

Andy has done slimline.
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: unclesomebody on November 02, 2005, 10:20:26 am
I think it has many repeats for a few reasons... it is the oldest standing 9a route. It has been tried by every single good climber.  What you don't hear in the news is about who goes to actually try routes, even though failure is most interesting.  Literally any climber who is capable of 9a has tried this route, and only 8 have succeeded. I would even say that Action Directe has had more people try it than any other hard route in the world. This is why it APPEARS to have had more repeats than most. the other thing is that Action is not shit, it is actually very good, so people want to go to try it, unlike some other 9a routes that I won't mention.
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: dobbin on November 02, 2005, 10:23:35 am
and its not really long, its a proper power 9a.
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Fiend on November 02, 2005, 10:31:14 am
Oh yeah I can see about the quality and sense of history. It's the campussing on vicious looking mono-pockets that had me wondering  :wink:
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: a dense loner on November 02, 2005, 12:19:22 pm
Quote
(perhaps I should just get 1-4-7 though, do you have to be able to do 1-5-9?)


if this was so panto's shop would be out of business :wink:
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Doylo on November 02, 2005, 04:54:10 pm
sweet pics, the pidgeon proves his photographic pedigree once again. Its not an easy route to get good pics of.
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: dave on November 02, 2005, 06:29:05 pm
Quote from: "unclesomebody"
I think it has many repeats for a few reasons... it is the oldest standing 9a route. It has been tried by every single good climber.  What you don't hear in the news is about who goes to actually try routes, even though failure is most interesting.  Literally any climber who is capable of 9a has tried this route, and only 8 have succeeded. I would even say that Action Directe has had more people try it than any other hard route in the world. This is why it APPEARS to have had more repeats than most. the other thing is that Action is not shit, it is actually very good, so people want to go to try it, unlike some other 9a routes that I won't mention.


since it was originally given UIAA XI (and thus it was heavily debated as to whether it was 8c+ or 9a), is it also true that theres a fair chance that its towards the "softer" end of 9a? also that'd make sense toward explaining the repeats along with the age of the route.
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: a dense loner on November 02, 2005, 06:46:34 pm
it would not explain it at all. the 8 people that have climbed this route are all monster's (with the obvious exception of buoux :wink: ). not only that they are all known for having mutant mono-strengths. if people didn't know this they just didn't know it
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Buoux 8C on November 02, 2005, 06:47:43 pm
Quote
since it was originally given UIAA XI (and thus it was heavily debated as to whether it was 8c+ or 9a), is it also true that theres a fair chance that its towards the "softer" end of 9a? also that'd make sense toward explaining the repeats along with the age of the route.


I would disagree with that, the reason, like Keith has explained that Action has now had 8 repeats is because it is one of the best and most impressive sport routes in the world. Along with this it is also the most famous hard route, it really has classic status amongst the worlds elite. This explains why nearly every world class sport climber has been their for some attempts. lets not forget that realisation has already seen 2 repeats in the matter of a couple of years, does that make it easier than one of mclures unrepeated 9a, or does it mean that it is just a better route that is more inspiring for most top climbers. i certianly would go for the latter.

As for the softer end of 9a, lets not forget dai Koyamdas comment that Action is by fare the hardest route he has ever climbed (a guy who has climbed 3 other 9a rotues and over 20 8c+ routes) and also comments from markus Bock who considers Action to be a hard 9a (he also has climbed 2 other 9a routes and over 20 8c+ routes).

As for me Action is the hardest thing i have climbed, for me it is a standard 9a harder than Hubble or any other 8c+ i have climbed. And although i havent climbed Any of these routes, i would say its as hard or harder than both rainshadow and Mutation both proposed 9a's in britain.

Just because the route has seen ascents from 3 climbers in one season dosent make it soft, it just means that 2 world class climbers both went to the frankenjura at the same time to attempt action directe and another one lives their and has been trying for the past 5 years. It also concludes that the weather was very good for 3 weeks which is a rarity in the frankenjura.

I feel that if action where to be soft 9a or an 8c+ then it would have had double the amount of repeats it has seen.
here is a list off the top of my head of world class climbers that have been and tryed action and not succeded.

John Gaskins
Dani Andrada
Fred Nicole
Klem Loskot
Ben Moon
Josune Beratizu
Paxti Usobiaga
Huber Brothers
Jerry Moffatt
many top french climbers,
Kilian fishuber,
Markus bendler
Sharma? i think
fred Roughling
Jb tribout

and of course keith bradbury

some list, and probably another 10 9a climbers i have forgotten about.
It really is an amzing climb.
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: dobbin on November 02, 2005, 08:17:41 pm
It certainly is an amazing climb, the buttress it climbs is staggering and the forest is really beautiful too. Its somewhere I'm fully psyched to go back to, although I think it might be one or two years before it goes down  :wink:

This is such a good effort Rich, its good to see someone really pushing British sport climbing.
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: dobbin on November 02, 2005, 08:18:51 pm
as an aside, what did you think to Unplugged?

Did you think it was soft in the grade, or were you just in the right head space after the biggest tick in the world?
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Huffy on November 02, 2005, 11:06:55 pm
Quote


and of course keith bradbury


Thats right, force it Bungle!

P.s. there are some CoC (#1&2) waiting for your fair hand to crush when you get back mate! :D
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: dobbin on November 03, 2005, 07:42:02 am
I'm ordering some this morning - how long they take to arrive?
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: SA Chris on November 03, 2005, 08:03:35 am
Quote from: "Buoux 8C"


Just because the route has seen ascents from 3 climbers in one season dosent make it soft, it just means that 2 world class climbers both went to the frankenjura at the same time to attempt action directe and another one lives their and has been trying for the past 5 years. about.


Nice to see the old modesty shining through  :wink: Either that, or you have been living a double life for 5 years.

Superb effort though, what you got your eye on next? Or would that be telling?
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Huffy on November 03, 2005, 10:03:21 am
C'mon, we should get some tight Captain of Crush T's made specifically for each school session, weekly crush convention, crush newsletters etc.....follow me people, i have a vision! :D

Ordered mine from london company : http://www.londonkettlebells.com/

not arrived yet, but when it does you can rest assured i'll be doing it just like this man: http://www.mashmonster.com/jeddjohnsonmmg2a.wmv

Cue heavy thrash music...
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: cofe on November 03, 2005, 04:43:48 pm
i worry about you huffy.
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: saltbeef on November 03, 2005, 05:25:51 pm
you haven't seen his fighting videos and his selection of vests...
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Terrace Ghost on November 03, 2005, 05:43:49 pm
LADYS AND GENTLEMEN AND SCRUFFY CLIMBERS

NUMBER 2 HAS BEEN CLOSED

by the Welsh punter himself. grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Terrace Ghost on November 03, 2005, 05:48:47 pm
oh...and the action d discussion reminds me of the dreamtime one a while back.
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Bonjoy on November 04, 2005, 10:45:26 am
So you boys are taking training tips of Stevie Haston now? :shock:  :lol:
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: dobbin on November 04, 2005, 11:37:35 am
well, someone that fat that still climbs 8a must be doing something right  :wink:

Mine are ordered. Huffmeister, I will get onto the muscle vests right away. Could you start collecting thrash metal?
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Huffy on November 05, 2005, 06:12:21 pm
Consider it done boio!

How was the Leeds comp?
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: dobbin on November 05, 2005, 08:42:45 pm
Good. Typically leeds, not a crimp in sight :wink: , 3d climbing round volumes and technique required to succeed. It was rammed too, loads of people down. Noone clean sheeted, although Stu Watson only dropped one and I suspect that lad called dave-whose-sirname-I-dont-know may also have only dropped one. Poorly elbow didnt like it though - been sore all day today.
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Huffy on November 06, 2005, 12:43:13 pm
Dave Buchanan?

Fairertimes about the elbow. Shouldn't you be resting m'boy, cant see a COC helping it heal?!

will leave the number two in schoolroom tonight by comments book. Anyone who manages to flash it gets a special TBA prize....
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: saltbeef on November 06, 2005, 05:31:40 pm
seriously dobs leave the crunchers alone until that elbow recovers. i've pulled a muscle in my forearm extensors and gibo now can't do a pull up without his wrist hurting!!!!!
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: dobbin on November 06, 2005, 07:33:48 pm
Fucking hell. I might leave them until christmas - I'll give them to myself or something - you know, for that christmas tingle.

Meant to ring you lads this morning about boarding, was planning to go to the tor but my field agents reported in and said A) that it was wet and B) that some chavs had been and had a bonfire outside Ben's roof. Apparently the fuel for the bonfire was the trees directly opposite the roof. Theres bottles and shit everywhere by all accounts. I'll have to go down with a bin liner and collect it this week.  So ended up at the school. Good session, left about 17:30.

It wasnt dave buchanan - I know him quite well.
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: saltbeef on November 06, 2005, 09:04:44 pm
ah you little tinker, we just got back, would've been good to sse ya.
peas and glove
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: squeek on November 06, 2005, 10:28:22 pm
Quote from: "dobbin"
It wasnt dave buchanan - I know him quite well.


David Suttcliffe?  I think he entered last year.
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: dobbin on November 06, 2005, 10:30:24 pm
is he quite short? when the results from leeds appear I will know.
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: a dense loner on November 08, 2005, 11:50:34 pm
Quote
i've pulled a muscle in my forearm extensors


another injury free year then
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: saltbeef on November 09, 2005, 12:16:18 pm
was never gonna happen, i had a month off in june due totraining too hard. my forearm muscle is ok now, don't mond damaging muscles, its the tendons that screw you up. shame i now have sepsis...
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Fiend on November 13, 2005, 03:51:22 pm
Back on the tick, can't remember if this was posted before but anyway...

Quote
...and it was a bit you were training for it! Did you do a lot of campussing?
Yes I did some campus boarding on one and two fingers: on one finger i could do 1-4-7...

Frankenjura9a interviewed on Freakclimbing.com (http://www.freakclimbing.com/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=835)

 :shock:
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Bubba on November 13, 2005, 05:33:18 pm
1-4-7 on 1 finger and 1-5-8 on two. Jeez!

Makes sense though...this was the route that campussing was invented for...
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Andy F on November 16, 2005, 06:59:19 pm
Quote from: "squeek"
Quote from: "dobbin"
It wasnt dave buchanan - I know him quite well.


David Suttcliffe?  I think he entered last year.


It was Tom Sugden, he of immense static strength and the dynoing ability of an African Elephant (sorry Tom if your reading this).
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: dobbin on November 16, 2005, 07:59:07 pm
No it wasnt! I know Tom too, he came third, the mysterious dave drew with Stu in 1st. I went today as well and totally forgot to look.

Tom is massively strong as you say, and I dont think i have ever seen him slap.  :roll:
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: Andy F on November 16, 2005, 08:22:48 pm
Ok, my mistake. Whoever came second must be pretty darn strong to out-muscle Tom.
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: BenF on November 17, 2005, 08:18:49 am
Andy, that Elephant line was very funny and I shall be using that line all weekend.  In fact I may get Tom a t-shirt with that printed on it. As you know, a joke only becomes truly funny when it has been repeated at least thirty-six times in a day.
Title: A tick worth getting
Post by: a dense loner on November 20, 2005, 12:36:30 am
while you're doing that i'll buy him some food
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