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the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: shark on September 09, 2019, 10:05:25 am

Title: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: shark on September 09, 2019, 10:05:25 am
10.13-11.0 Average 153.9. (69.8kg) down 0.5lbs

M. Meant to be a rest day having been at Malham the day before. Somehow found myself at Anston with the dogs and Tomtom who was trying Reservation 7B. He encouraged me to try Beta Blocker 7A next to it. I was reluctant having got frustrated with it a few years ago. However after a few attempts and trying out different footholds it went down. We moved over to Alpha for the briefest of goes. Painful pocket!

T. Afternoon. Up with Ben Moon, Nic and Jerome and Tommy Drizzly but not cold. Air damp with rain sometimes blowing in. Warm ups occupied so Go1 pulled up to top traverse and warmed upon on that and doing traverse to belay Go2 2x failed attempts of horn to top Go3 Horn to top Go 4 1 failed attempt and another successful attempt of horn to top Go 5 2xfailed attempts then another successful one Go 6 Tommy persuaded me to have another go and did Horn to top for 4th time very slickly and had a short rest and almost did it a 5th time but foot slipped in shallow pocket towards end of traverse. Tom got thru ground to horn2x

W.

T. Bens 21st. As traditional we go bouldering at a venue of Bens choice so went to Turning Stone Edge so he could check out River of Life. Would have preferred to go somewhere that took advantage of the Westerly wind but hey ho. Started off on Underton Arête 6C+. The boys despatched this after a few goes but I struggled on while they moved on. In between attempts I soloed Overton Wall VS and then Overton Arête HVS 5b. Had a ‘shall I, shan’t I’ moment on the latter as the high stretchy and balance crux would be hard to reverse and it wasn’t clear what the holds were like above and whether it was clean. However went ok when I committed. Underton Arête when down eventually but with a kneepad and heel toe although the Heberdens node on the top of the dip joint of my middle left finger made it hard to use the crack

F.

S.

S.Afternoon. Malham. Up with Ben Moon, Nic and Tom. Crap journey. Baking when we got there. Met Wil and Rob F. Hung around for cloud Warmed up on Oak by pulling up to top traverse and doing it to top. After that attempted throw to the top. Did it 5 times on to the traverse on separate tie ins. 6th attempt failed going for sloper. Should be solid on this link at this stage. 7 laps of Cons to finish. Wheels coming off the wagon. In better news Tommy got to top traverse three times and Jerome got Bat Route


Good to get the average weight sub 11stone but otherwise things not going to plan. My approach has been to treat the sessions as training whilst conditions are average. Should be rinsing throw to top link at this stage. Going to see how it goes on weds and take a view but feel despondent about prospects at the moment

https://youtu.be/FxSzxi9epio
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: spidermonkey09 on September 09, 2019, 10:14:58 am
I feel the pain Shark!

M - rest.

T - Depot. Circuits followed by some campusing, board problems and FOC . Felt fit but irritated old knuckle injury; was very painful the next day but has calmed down a bit since. Did some rows to finish.

W - rest.

T - Depot. Circuits, campusing, board, rows. Felt good on all of them.

F - rest.

S- Castleberg Crag for the afternoon. Really nice day ticking a few routes and going somewhere new. Good little crag, although an annoying gap in the grades between 6a+ and 6c+ which will probably preclude another visit in immediate future as there is nothing for girlfriend to do! Thought the 6c+ steep corner was superb.

S - Malham in the afternoon for a redpoint. Through bulge and high on headwall with relative ease. Felt good in undercut rest so went for it but gassed on crimps almost immediately and came off at the same old place. So annoying as the rest of it is fine. Not sure how much more I can do this season; will try again next weekend but that might be it if no luck. Felt like bad conditions again; not a breath of wind. That said, Jerome pissed it so maybe I need to stop moaning!

Pissed off with lack of tick for all the effort put in. Looking forward to going to Spain!
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: monkoffunk on September 09, 2019, 10:32:52 am
STG - Start ticking off boulder projects. More likely to get out on bloc now than sport. Sport as and when.
Lose weight back 74kg.
MTG - Get some form of structured training back, but capitalise on unstructured opportunities.
LTG - 7C

M - Finished night shift 0800. Strangely quiet, managed to get some broken rest. Felt good enough to get down to Portland before joining family embarking on week long party.

Back to Ladies Night after warm up on some easier problems (failed to do some ridiculous 6B mantle). Much better progress. Had a bit of try hard attitude back, went from only being able to do the first move off the ground to working out a full sequence. Did moves one and two, and then figured out a way of doing move three to the top. Not that hard from there, just need to use correct body position. Didn’t quite manage to stick move three, but pleased with the progress.

Few goes on a 7A+ nearby that was also really fun. Required a big rock over on a heel that I just didn’t have today, but hopefully next time.

Brief swim in afternoon.

T -  Eating too much and socialising. Little bit of swimming.

W - Back to the night shifts.

T - Very busy night Wednesday. Unconscious most of the day, up at around 1700, realised needed to do something to try and maintain. Series of pull ups on flat edge, leg raises, hanging tucks and front lever edges. Then hung up portable fingers board on tree in garden. Series of hangs to failure either locked at 90ish or in tuck position due to lack of ground clearance. Not really structured in anyway but felt like I was working hard. Something better than nothing principle.

One more night shift.

F - Plan to drive down to Cornwall where parents and aunt staying after work/sleep. Turns out my wife was going to be delayed getting down to Dorchester giving me unplanned free morning. Decided to forgo further sleep (I got a few hours) and get down for bonus morning Portland session. Forecast bad, started raining as I walked in. Hid in Nighttime Daytime (Monday’s attempted 7A+) cave until rain stopped. Rock drys fast there. Tried ND to warm up as I was under it already, but to no avail, various combinations on top I couldn’t make work.

Back on Ladies Night as the clouds started regathering. Did the top from move three easily. Just need to stick move three from ground.... Went to pull on and heavens opened. Sacked it back to car to wait out shower.

Didn’t want to walk back to Cuttings, so went to Neddyfields after rain stopped. Everything bone dry already. Did Ripples Sit, a really awesome 6B+ on this amazing flowstone feature. Then tried the 7B traverse into it. Worked every sequence except the seemingly low percentage move that would put you into the 6B+. Relied heavily on beta from Sam Parson’s (after the send) video on Vimeo, bit of a master of Portland vert technique. On reflection I’d probably never have worked out the sequence alone, but using the video allowed me to practise my technique. For example I realised I was failing the last few moves due to my body position being too high and stuck them as soon as I readjusted. I think this was more valuable than just failing to make any progress with no beta on a style I don’t naturally warm to.

Tried Local People, 7A. Couldn’t even initiate hard move I almost stuck in May. Hopefully too tired rather than too weak. Couple of kilos heavier too. Almost did Fontanel, 7A, to finish; I’m sure with a long rest I’d have done it but needed to run back to Dorch to pick up wife by this stage. Next time!

S - In a bit of Cornwall about as far from decent rock as you can be in Cornwall it seems. Rest.

S - Rest and driving home. Two more nights this week and then I’m back to normality for a bit.


Unexpectedly, two of the most fun days I’ve had bouldering in a while. Thinking back to the performance as a measure of self worth threads, I’ve been making the mistake of expecting not to have to try hard and therefore being despondent when I can’t do things and they feel hard. This week I just tried hard on everything, regardless of whether it was 6A or 7B. I didn’t tick anything but I made progress and stuck moves I wasn’t expecting to. That was enough to feel happy when I knew I was giving it my best.
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: SA Chris on September 09, 2019, 10:45:56 am
M - nothing I can recall. Woody building progresses. Slowly.
T - nothing
W - weather grim, but mate having a crap time, and needed to get out, so did 12km with him in the pissing rain and wind, then bouldering session at wall, actually felt OK.
T - nowt
F - run home from work. Left too late, knackered after long week, didn't eat enough, totally bonked at about 10 k. had to walk to nearest corner shop and dose up on lucozade, wine gums and chocolate hobnobs. Felt Ok after that kincked in and did remaining 8 km at reasonable pace.
S - 6 k leg stretcher. 3 km with kyle and 3 without.
S - not much. Walk to park in next village with kids on bikes and a bit of football. 
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: cheque on September 09, 2019, 10:53:28 am
Rehab Diaries Week Fifty-five

STG- Sub-HVS *** Peak Trad list (7/27 remain), onsighting HVS/ low 6s by end of September.

M- Three sets of five pullups while working from home.

T- Remembered that there used to be a pullup bar in the old caretaker's doss room at one of the places I work. Had a look and it's still there! 5 sets of five pullups during the day.  :strongbench: It's a cleaning supplies cupboard now so on the plus side there's a hardcore training vibe of doing pullups in a tiny cupboard with the stench of chemicals but on the minus side there's a high chance that someone will notice me going in and out of there and I'll have to have a conversation explaining what the fuck I'm doing.

W- Seven sets of three pullups on the staff kitchen doorframe at the other place I work.

T- Cleaning at Yarncliffe. Very encouraged to find that the bottom of Zapple was both clean and dry- pleased with that. Abbed Fall Pipe (the good VS that's usually as filthy as it's name suggests) again but it still needs at least another pass!

F- Rest.

S- AM- drove my other half to Parkrun. I had no intention of taking part but once they set off I was curious to see if I could run parts of it- I haven't run at all since my accident and have barely ever done it in any organised capacity but the next bit of fitness I need to regain is the lung-fitness one. I only ran in sections because it felt weird and my hip hurt but I was still ahead of a surprising few of the people when I met Rache at the finish line (it's a 1 1/2 lap arrangement  so she was basically lapping me) and if I actually entered, was wearing suitable clothes without my phone keys and wallet in my pocket I could probably do the whole thing and not be dead last. 

PM- Yarncliffe. Aim was to lead Zapple. It was very slightly damp at the bottom but definitely climbable despite the previous day's rain- again, I'm pleased with this 'cos it would have been unclimbably damp 'n' gunky after rain just a few weeks ago.  :)

Unfortunately my tactics were shit- instead of repeating one or two of the easier routes in the sunny bit of the quarry to warm up I opted to try a succession of VSs I'd never looked at at all in the less-travelled bit and they were all a bit too dirty for this purpose- sacked them all off and got on Zapple reasoning that I was warmed up from battling with the bottom of each- was feeling nervous and unconfident and made a fuckup of Zapple too. My girlfriend didn't enjoy sliding across the muddy floor as I dogged it either (I should add that she was still on her feet when sliding) so I decided to set up a toprope and just do it on that. Not really proud of that but oh well :-[.This was Rache's first experience of belaying on a toprope and she surprisingly found it scarier than lead belaying (her introduction to belaying has been pretty much just feeding the rope out without it ever being weighted) so I suppose I can use teaching her as one of my excuses. After a dogging go (much harder than I remembered it!) I did the whole route in a oner twice and should be able to lead it next visit.

S- Woke up witha really sore hip (worse than usual) but this went off. Froggatt, climbing cracks with slab_happy  :wave: Lovely weather and it was good to be out without a real target hanging over me. Led three HSs, seconded three VSs and led Softest HVS in the Peak* Tody's Wall which is my first HVS since my accident.  :dance1: Far from onsight as I first led it 9 1/2 years ago and have seconded it twice since but a good confidence boost.

With the cooler weather coming and the deadline for my HVS onsight target on the way too I'm working towards that now- it's really a matter of confidence more than anything else. Gone to plan this week. 

*In my opinion anyway
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: tommytwotone on September 09, 2019, 10:55:20 am

Gutted I missed the boat here, was hoping I'd get in first and call this week "I've climbed with Will Hunt this week Club"!

Goal: 3 x new (to me) outdoor 7as by end of 2019


M: off work due to inset day with Una - she requested a trip to The Depot (good girl!) so had a really good session. She was psyched / did loads, and we basically went round taking it in turns her doing something and me doing something. Came away feeling like I'd had a proper workout.
T - F: nowt, back to work
S: other half busy all day so took a punt on taking both kids (Una 5, Clem 2.5) to Climbing Lab as we were passing on way back from an appointment in north Leeds. Pulled up and found Will Hunt was arriving with Mini-Will in tow. Ended up climbing together, my two definitely had a great time and I even got them to sit nicely later on so I could have a quick run around a tick a few things, inc. a V5 second go.
S: Pass out to Blackstone Edge w/ tomtom, Plattsy and another Andy. Una had asked if she could come but I had reservations as to whether she'd cope with the walk in (and out) but fair play to her, she managed it.


Absolutely brilliant day - warm but not too hot in the sun, cool and good friction on the rock, great psyche and actually bags of low boulders for Una to clamber about on.


She did loads, and inbetween I managed to do The Lushering (7a) from the proper sit start (have previously done from stand and mistakenly thought I'd ticked it) and Mike's Arete (7a) in a handful of goes.

Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: cheque on September 09, 2019, 11:00:41 am
I managed to do The Lushering (7a) from the proper sit start (have previously done from stand and mistakenly thought I'd ticked it) and Mike's Arete (7a) in a handful of goes.

Nice one!
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: SA Chris on September 09, 2019, 11:14:50 am
Do they qualify as

 2 of the
Quote
3 x new (to me) outdoor 7as by end of 2019
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: tommytwotone on September 09, 2019, 11:22:42 am
I think I've ticked the goal, though potentially on a technicality!


I was on 2 before, but they were Used For Glue at Church Crag (7a apparently, but potentially a touch soft at the grade), and Used For Glue Sit Start (7a+ apparently), and the start I'd been mistakenly been doing for the 7a version!


I'm not taking The Lushering, as I'd done the meat of it last year - doing it "properly" just means I can look at myself in the mirror now.


But yes - Used For Glue (7a), Used For Glue SS (7a+) and Mike's Arete (7a) - that's 3!
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: SA Chris on September 09, 2019, 11:28:00 am
Before tail season has even started...
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: andy_e on September 09, 2019, 11:29:59 am
You should probably do ten more, just to make sure  :strongbench:
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: Nibile on September 09, 2019, 12:13:11 pm
Power Club

Mon - fingers, system, 23 hangs with and without feet. Quite strong. Rings I's in between reps, 10" with a final 1' rep. Weights.
Tue - rest.
Wed - fingers, garage session. Bar work in between sets. Lat pulldown. Knee rehab, step and squat.
Thu - weights.
Fri - rest.
Sat - bar work (abs: feet to ceiling), weights.
Sun - pull ups, weighted carries (20' total).

Knee very sore again, very concerned.
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: Will Hunt on September 09, 2019, 01:18:11 pm
Excuse: have had a really half-arsed cold all week. Haven't felt awful but running at about 70%.

Tuesday - evening at Almscliff. Connies are coming. Did the 7A in the Teaspoon Cave that I haven't done before and pottered about.

Saturday - Took the ankle biter to The Lab. 3T arrived at the same time with his two. The kid's cave there is really good. Little 'uns can run amok without getting in anyone's way and there's a good quantity of slabby things to go at. This was her first time at a wall and she really enjoyed it (big thanks to 3T Jr who let us borrow one of his teddies to "rescue" from halfway up the wall). Thought she performed quite well until she started to fade. Lots of power spotting required towards the end.

Sunday - Malham. First ones there and the place was cooking in the sun. Had thought to try Space Race again but just didn't feel great, especially in the sun. Didn't feel dizzy but felt kind of not-present. Weird. Did a couple of 6cs to warm up. Got most of the way up Against The Wall but was cooked by the last bolt so had to have a rest. Annoying as I flashed Yosemite Wall last year and found it pretty steady. Belayed Rob a bit and said hello to Shark and Sharklet. Dogged up Space Race on a top rope which felt demoralising, but in hindsight it wasn't too bad given how shitty I felt and that I was just figuring it out from memory. Went upstairs to have a look at the newly bolted trad routes. Flashed Duck Dive on a top rope; much more my scene; techy slabby wall climbing. Gave a pep talk to Shark on the way out - think he'll probably do it now that I've bestowed my wisdom upon him.
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: shark on September 09, 2019, 02:01:43 pm
Gave a pep talk to Shark on the way out - think he'll probably do it now that I've bestowed my wisdom upon him.

 :-\ The advice was to give up and go back on it in a year or two (when I’m 57 or 58) based on your Red Baron experience. I also had Ben Moon giving me earache with another pyramid style approach. Others include mainly train indoors. Or mainly climb outdoors. Impossible to amalgamate all of them but then get accused of not listening to advice.

Fucking frustrating not to get the progress this season. I’m light, fingers are stronger than ever, climbing fast and slickly on the route. Will try from the ground on weds but if I don’t get the through move then it makes sense to take at least a short break from it and do some other stuff including train for RRG
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: Will Hunt on September 09, 2019, 02:08:27 pm
60's the new 40. You're just coming into your prime.

I'd listen to Ben. I was just speaking of my own personal experience which is admittedly entirely unsuited to you as your circumstances are very different. I have virtually no experience of hard protecting in any discipline so am the last person who ought to be offering advice.
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: tomtom on September 09, 2019, 02:36:53 pm
Allez Shark. You were climbing well at Anston and seemed in a good head space. I don't really know what I mean by that but you seemed to be quite content (only one minor swearing outburst :D)

MY ADVICE... is get the latest version if iMovie on your phone... it has a green screen function - perfect for filming that immaculate ascent.

Enough pre-amble...

Mon: Anston. As Shark has already said I was working Reservation. Managed to to the top (yay!) and turn three overlapping sections into two overlapping sections. Thought it would go actually - but ran out of juice after trying to refine the top part.

We: Anston again - joined by the rest of the Ozito Fan Crew (yeah!) Dolly and Nai. In full redpoint mode. Good conditions, took good rests but just couldnt stick the lower crux for me. possibly a bit tired from Monday still. Reservation is for me quite a long problem for me (11-12 hand moves) so I only get so many attempts. Did the top part again (twice) to get it fairly wired (still quite hard so wanted to get it right when arriving tired from lower part) - and towards the end of the session found a slightly different foot placement that made the crux seem a fair bit easier. So progress (though tiny) and hopeful for next visit...

Fri: Depot in the morning. Good session - had a good chat/catch up with a couple of folk and somehow managed to do a yellow and nearly do another three... felt like I was switched on and climbing really well...

Su: Great day up at Blackstone with Plattsy and 3T. Did nothing new - but nearly did a couple of things I'd not done and want to go back for. Felt suitably trashed afterwards!
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: spidermonkey09 on September 09, 2019, 02:54:39 pm
Listening to Ben Moon is probably a good call, especially with regard to climbing hard into his 50's. Watching him climb in the flesh for the first time was suitably inspiring. Beast.  :bow:
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: Coops_13 on September 09, 2019, 03:16:48 pm
T: Guanella Pass. Dark Horse boulder to start with. Struggled with the climbing there - not that nice and couldn't pull hard with L hand. Spent the last 8 days at sea level so could be the altitude. Went to main area and struggled more on Guanella Arete. Finished by doing Center Layback V4 second go - nice-ish consolation

W: 20 mins cardio on bike then lower body and back stretches

T: Spot Denver. Free entry due to the nail incident last time. Warmed up with some hangs and easy climbing then onto the Kilterboard. 2 V4, 3 V5, 3 V6, 1 V7. Finished up with some bench up to BW

S: Emerald Lake solo sesh. Needed to get out early and my mates all wanted a late session so went alone. Met some people who I climbed with for most of the day. Warmed up then flashed The Kind V5 - lived up to its reputation. Took a while to stick the move on Mr Wimpy V7 but eventually put it down. Moved on with adopted crew to Purple Drank V8. This went down v quickly making me think more soft V7... Finished off doing the Cube Arete V5. Vid below:
https://vimeo.com/358550274

S: Back to RMNP / Emerald Lake area so that the gf could see how it all looked without snow. Emerald Lake, Lake Haiyaha and I also took her on most of the approach to Upper Chaos to get a good view of the lake. 6.5 miles total
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: Yossarian on September 09, 2019, 03:37:16 pm
M: Bit of shoulder rehab at home and then wall. Best board session I’ve had in years / ever. All old problems felt easy(ish) and kept finding myself hanging on when I’d normally be flying off. Lots of syke. Pushed on till I was quite tired. Then did some campus. Did 146 leading on non-problem shoulder, and not far off with the other. Not tried this in ages - if I’d been fresh might’ve managed both. Tried 156 but it wasn’t happening. Did a bit of other stuff but skin was getting thin by that point.
T: Harrisons. Did The Flakes and Coronation Crack a few times (and some other stuff) which are not dissimilar to parts of Empire - CC crux definitely harder in fact. Need to get on some harder things like What Crisis and Larger Frenzy.
Yoga in the evening
W: 11km run, plus yoga and shoulder rehab
T: Wall. Same as Monday - mostly board problems and campus. Not so fresh feeling, but a solid session nonetheless. Laps on steep prow problems to finish.
F: Another 11km run
S: Wall. Couple of fingers feeling a bit tweaky and sore skin. Did a truncated board session, no energy for campus. Pushed on with circuit problems - skin getting trashed by now. Then FOC to failure with 1:1 work:rest x7. And then a bit of circuit board.
S: Yoga and stretching

Best training week in months. Started running again with the aim of dropping some weight before heading back to Ansteys in a couple of weeks. Aiming for another heavy week and then a lighter one. Starting to get quite nervous that the weather might crap out, so trying to figure out some plans for other trips / routes to try. Lots of mid 7s at Winspit is the main backup plan, and hoping for a day or two at Cheddar before too long as well.
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: tomtom on September 09, 2019, 04:14:32 pm
Great week Coops & Yoss!
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: gollum on September 09, 2019, 04:17:12 pm
 M - Back on it. May need to build back slowly but determined to do so.
Lunchtime steady 10k to get back in the flow. Felt pretty good and a good start to the week. Go to the Depot in the evening. Start with campus board, which I’ve avoided for a couple of weeks and been feeling weak on before that. Grind it out. Not quite hitting my benchmarks but not a million miles off so take some encouragement from that. Then a repeaters session on the BM2K. A bit rusty but managed all my sets including half crimp with 20k added for first set. Scapular work to finish off.

T - Lifting again. Go for triples bench pressing and fail at 100 although do get two solid reps. Then move n to benching from a dead stop on the safety bars and scrape 115k which is the same as my best, just looked a lot uglier today. Finish off doing some standing shoulder presses with 40x4, 42.5x4 and then 45x4 straight into a 40x4 dropset. All the reps were really clean but it became a battle at the end. Glad to be back pushing weights again.
Good hour running at marathon pace on treadmill at lunchtime. Felt bloody great and heart rate stayed in a pretty comfortable range.
Depot in the evening. Scapular work to start and there is definitely improvement. Then move onto campus board. Much more into it than yesterday and coordination and timing are on point, hence hitting at least some of my benchmarks.
Onto the 50 Board reacquainting with the old school benchmarks. Feel like I am generally climbing well on them, for me, feet solid enough, core mobile and fingers and arms doing their stuff. Will work oh this board more in next few months I reckon. Finished session while still felt strong.

W - Weights are back in with a vengeance. Deadlifts to warm up. Singles up to 150 and it flew off the ground to the extent that it feels Ike I have another 15-20k in me at the moment. We shall see. Move on to power rows, shrugs and hyperextensions as a tri-set which works well. Then did some barbell curls with a light weight but complete control. Finished off with one arm pull ups. RH still doing pretty well and LH solid enough but not quite locked at the top of the motion, time to work on shoulder stability and rehab I reckon. Overall a good session considering I have not been motivated for lifting for a few weeks.
Lunchtime trip to Big Depot as I have a meeting in Leeds. Repeater session which goes well with plus 15k on half crimp on 14mm pocket and plus 5kg on front two fingers on small pockets. Rest of sets go really well. Reckon I could add weight on some of the other grips as well. Certainly progress being made. Then flash a couple of purples and don’t quite manage a couple more before it’s time to go. Solid enough session.
Bit of a treadmill trot after work. Nice and easy 10k.

T - Push day. Benching, working on triples got to 90k and not confident that was okay without the safety bars so did a second set at 90 and then bailed. Declines for 8 reps working up to 75k and keeping it nice and steady. Incline press for five reps up to 80. Finish off with some floor presses at 60k, which feels tough at this stage.
10k treadmill at lunchtime followed by some rehab work.
Evening at the Depot. Do the first 20 pinks and then get on some of the purples and yellows I haven’t done with some success. Then make rookie error of trying another comp problem, get to top move, have my hand in finishing hold for about ten seconds with whole body fighting to stay on the wall.......and fail. Another day!!! Lesson learned.

F - Pull day. Deadlifts to start and was absolutely sold until someone bolted 165 to the floor and that was never coming off the ground. Then on to some pull downs up to 120kilos which worked well. Then some slow strict pull ups. Finished off with sets of 5 seated rows. Started at 35k and rose in 5k increments until 90k which felt hard by that stage.
A quick zip to the Big Depot at lunch for some repeaters. Absolutely solid and the most solid I have felt on this. Reduced rest to a set every two minutes and still felt good. Was up at 8 second hangs on quite a lot of the sets, just because I felt comfortable. Hopefully it will last and it is progress rather than some false dawn.
5k treadmill run in the evening. Quicker than I have been going of late and my achilles definitely feels it, back to slow steady distance.

S - Push day. Steady decline bench press concentrating on form and maintaining a steady motion, worked up to 90 for triples. Move on to doubles for bench and solid at 95 with less fear under a heavy bar without a spotter or safety bars, definitely in my comfort zone. Dumbbell shoulder press 5x5 with 30s on last set. Happy to be back to benchmark and shoulder worries are behind me. Finish with some shoulder lateral work with cables both up and down.
Treadmill 10 mile run in 90 minutes. Feels good and nice and strong on second half.
On to the Depot for a quick session. Fairly low key and relax. Pick up a couple of new purples and make progress on a couple of others before picking up a funny little tweak in my finger that seems to hurt near the tip when I pull hard but doesn’t actually feel like it’s in the joint. Will wait and see.

S - Very last time I will need to run on the treadmill because I’m on call. I may run on treadmills because I actually quite like it, but that’s not the same as not having an option. Ran 20miles in under 3 hours and felt really strong right to the end.
Follow this up with light pull session while stretching and doing rehab exercises. Pull downs on the machine 5x5 at 90k, some sets of 10 pull-ups and some scapular rear deltoid work to finish.

Apart from minor finger issue, all told a really solid week and good for the mind and the body.
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: Duma on September 09, 2019, 04:19:48 pm
yoss, have you tried Seven Months Later on the wave at Cheddar? seems like the sort of thing you'd do ok at.
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: wasbeen on September 09, 2019, 04:46:50 pm

Fucking frustrating not to get the progress this season. I’m light, fingers are stronger than ever, climbing fast and slickly on the route. Will try from the ground on weds but if I don’t get the through move then it makes sense to take at least a short break from it and do some other stuff including train for RRG

How about vowing to never tell a soul when you do get it?

Hide a camera at Malham somewhere with the footage. Perhaps it will be discovered in 100 years and answer one of the great unanswered questions of climbing. In the meantime walk around with an enigmatic grin.
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: petejh on September 09, 2019, 05:07:15 pm
Fucking frustrating not to get the progress this season. I’m light, fingers are stronger than ever, climbing fast and slickly on the route. Will try from the ground on weds but if I don’t get the through move then it makes sense to take at least a short break from it and do some other stuff including train for RRG


[annualslagoffSharkontheoak]
Well start redpointing it then you idiot! :hug: Instead of spending sessions and sessions (and sessions and sessions) doing 'training links' - you must have climbed the equivalent of the Eiger in 'training links from bolt 3'. It's been 11 years FFS, if you can't get through onto the top traverse from the ground by now you simply aren't good enough. You'll never find out if you're good enough by spending all your energy going from bolt 3. Apols if that's harsh.
[/annualslagoffSharkontheoak]
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: shark on September 09, 2019, 05:28:16 pm
By “now” I assume you mean this stage in the season? Obviously I have got to the top traverse from the ground dozens of times previously but yes if I don’t get there from the ground on Wednesday then I’ll at least be taking a break of a couple of weeks if not sacking it off altogether for the year.
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: SA Chris on September 09, 2019, 05:34:33 pm
Sacking it off for the year? Come on shark, show some commitment to the route :)
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: shark on September 09, 2019, 05:40:32 pm
Sacking it off for the year? Come on shark, show some commitment to the route :)

 ;D

Tally so far is 9 sessions Feb-April 2 random sessions in June and then 7 sessions since middle of August.
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: Will Hunt on September 09, 2019, 05:52:08 pm
It's worth bearing in mind that the second bolt (which Shark has done the route from as a "training link") is at about shoulder height...
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: Yossarian on September 09, 2019, 06:09:24 pm
yoss, have you tried Seven Months Later on the wave at Cheddar? seems like the sort of thing you'd do ok at.
No - i’ve been studying the guide quite closely, looking at the various suggestions you / Monk / Guy made earlier in the year. I have a clipstick finally, so am tempted to head down midweek sometime and try TRing a load of things on the Wave.
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: nai on September 09, 2019, 06:20:18 pm
M - Kids INSET day, away mini breaking

T - Still Kids F***ing INSET FFS.  Hadn't slept well for a few nights (and had been drinking too much), could have trained but was so tired that I couldn't face it.

W - Anston with Dolly and tomtom, still felt tired so arrived early to give myself plenty of time warming up. Got going surprisingly quickly and repeated four of the verty problems on the Wave wall then had a play on the steeper easy stuff just right to get the shoulders going.  Felt surprisingly ok.
Tom was on Reservation so I got back on Tech Nine so I could spot and I was out for a bit of a social as much as anything after six weeks of school holidays. Tech Nine is a 7B that involves one move and a match into a 5+, I've actually done the move four times and dropped the match or 5+ being the twat that I am.  The crux though is crawling underneath the low roof to reach the start holds and wondering why you're bothering. I eventually stuck it and completed the problem then started wondering about the link into Beretta but fortunately ran out of time before I managed to remember the sequence for it.
Core back home

Th -
Slept well!
Tempted to foray out onto the grit by cool breezy weather and Friday's poor forecast, warmed up at home then headed to Burbage Bridge to try Mermaid.  I've done it a couple of times before but for some reason have the urge to do it again and being as close to home and the road as possible it seemed a good option for a superquickhit.  Unfortunately the slot was wet so that was a non-starter, considered other options but in the end decided to gamble on Friday so just jumped back in the car and went home
Core

F -
Slept Well again
Was torn between trying to finish of Kristian's at the Tor and working stuff at Griffs. Chose the latter basically because despite having done 11 7Bs in the previous six months I haven't managed to link more than a single move on anything harder and started getting a bit Oh-woe-is-me about it

Tried Mint Sauce but couldn't do a single move; Low Left which I scraped through move two of the three extra moves, move three probably feasible being merely a fall sideways but move one remains elusive; and Lovine which despite being shown a hold I'd missed I still couldn't make the massive stretch or move any limb once in that position. So just the one move still.

Considered getting on Griffs Traverse with the Bovine finish but wasn't inspired so nipped up to Roadside to try Free Range Abbatoir, the big slap at the start had always eluded me but hasn't go any shorter or any less sharp. Just about had the distance but the thought of latching that hold at full stretch wasn't attractive. Did spy the line of pockets coming into Red or Dead from the right and wondered what they were...
Core

S -
And again....
Rare weekend pass but where to go.  Didn't fancy crowds so headed up Blackwell Dale thinking of Neil's Wall at Beginners, possibly Griffs again or carry onto Lees Bottom if they were busy. There was a single car parked at Beginners so I carried on, dunno why, whoever it was can't have been at both Beginners and Griffs.  Roadside was empty so I opted to warm up there (not a good idea) and have a look at the line of pockets that it turns out is just the right grade at 7B+ (soft). Top Shop Low is a king line on par with Tech Nine but crucially I can do all the moves and even managed to link some of them together.  Ended up staying there and became tired ahead of schedule, did the 6C between FRA and the warm up just to feel like I'd achieved something then went home.  Definite non-quality but it made me feel better to do 3 moves in a row

TRX and core back home

S - Rest day planned, nipper decied she wanted to go "roped climbing" so we went out to Lawrencfield. Soloed easy stuff to rope her up Gingerbread, Meringue, Snail Crack etc then she decided she wanted to lead. Wouldn't let her but preplaced a coupel of wires and stuck in a lower off in at about 5m and let her lace it up to there.  Then spent an age trying to retrieve overcammed, etc Friends.


Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: dunnyg on September 09, 2019, 07:00:18 pm
What's the beta for tech 9, it should be my bag but can't touch it! Last time it was from connies though
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: nai on September 09, 2019, 07:46:55 pm
What's the beta for tech 9, it should be my bag but can't touch it! Last time it was from connies though

Hands on obvious crimp and pinch, RF on plinth, LF king od flagging. Squueze your butt hard, engage core, pull arse off floor and slap at the speed of light.  A fan or a hurricane helps for the crimps

https://youtu.be/Cwg_vxDSXB8
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: shark on September 09, 2019, 07:50:58 pm
It's worth bearing in mind that the second bolt (which Shark has done the route from as a "training link") is at about shoulder height...

Not quite but you can touch the left foothold I use from the ground
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: Doylo on September 09, 2019, 09:22:26 pm
Olly Grounsell did Liquid Ambar from the first bolt a few years ago and never finished it.
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: Wood FT on September 09, 2019, 09:39:34 pm
Olly Grounsell did Liquid Ambar from the first bolt a few years ago and never finished it.

He’s not arsed now either, which is a shame, said it was making him weaker for other things as it’s so specific.
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: tomtom on September 09, 2019, 10:25:49 pm
What's the beta for tech 9, it should be my bag but can't touch it! Last time it was from connies though

Pulling with all my might managed to raise my buttocks 1 cm off the mat for about a second....
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: dunnyg on September 09, 2019, 10:38:31 pm
Cheers! Next time I'll sit under it. Not got a fan yet so will have to be a windy day
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: 36chambers on September 09, 2019, 10:42:53 pm
Cheers! Next time I'll sit under it. Not got a fan yet so will have to be a windy day

I'll be your fan

edit: actually f**k anstons, no time for that place atm :P
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: monkoffunk on September 10, 2019, 01:06:37 am
It's worth bearing in mind that the second bolt (which Shark has done the route from as a "training link") is at about shoulder height...

Not quite but you can touch the left foothold I use from the ground

What’s your high point?
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: shark on September 10, 2019, 08:16:51 am
What’s your high point?

One reach from easier climbing.

 :'(

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=tc0rBjvYknQ&feature=youtu.be


Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: Will Hunt on September 10, 2019, 09:04:47 am
Is it legit to have the third bolt preclipped?  :worms:
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: shark on September 10, 2019, 09:59:09 am
Is it legit to have the third bolt preclipped?  :worms:

Depends who you ask. Probably half of the ascents have it pre-clipped.
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: highrepute on September 10, 2019, 11:09:26 am
Sacking it off for the year? Come on shark, show some commitment to the route :)

 ;D

Tally so far is 9 sessions Feb-April 2 random sessions in June and then 7 sessions since middle of August.

Surprised you're talking about sacking it off, have conditions even got good yet this autumn?

Try to enjoy the process and keep trying, would be my advice that you didn't ask for and don't want!
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: highrepute on September 10, 2019, 11:15:58 am
S - Malham in the afternoon for a redpoint. Through bulge and high on headwall with relative ease. Felt good in undercut rest so went for it but gassed on crimps almost immediately and came off at the same old place. So annoying as the rest of it is fine. Not sure how much more I can do this season; will try again next weekend but that might be it if no luck. Felt like bad conditions again; not a breath of wind. That said, Jerome pissed it so maybe I need to stop moaning!

Pissed off with lack of tick for all the effort put in. Looking forward to going to Spain!

Not read properly for a while...did you do any tapering for a peak?

In my (limited) experience, if I keep falling off at the same place then that bit needs a little rethink. Could be a beta change, or perhaps on the sharp-end you're failing to execute your beta properly, is there a clip you could skip, is the rest before this section being used effectively (I've founding counting breaths useful for when mental stress is sending me off rather than climbing ability...have a think maybe.

Your last comment makes it sound like the effort you've put should make you entitled to the tick. Is that a fair assessment?

Other than that keep trying!
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: monkoffunk on September 10, 2019, 11:33:27 am
What’s your high point?

One reach from easier climbing.

 :'(

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=tc0rBjvYknQ&feature=youtu.be

Wow, that really did look heartbreaking.

Again advice you didn’t ask for and don’t need, and I’m sure you know the effects of conditions etc better than anyone, but......

With such a dialled route and nothing more to learn about it, and doing it in two massively overlapping halves, why do anything other than try to redpoint it, regardless of how likely it feels on the day? I’m sure it’s been said before, but even if you think you have 1% chance of getting up it a given go that’s still more than 0%.
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: spidermonkey09 on September 10, 2019, 12:10:32 pm

Not read properly for a while...did you do any tapering for a peak?

In my (limited) experience, if I keep falling off at the same place then that bit needs a little rethink. Could be a beta change, or perhaps on the sharp-end you're failing to execute your beta properly, is there a clip you could skip, is the rest before this section being used effectively (I've founding counting breaths useful for when mental stress is sending me off rather than climbing ability...have a think maybe.

Your last comment makes it sound like the effort you've put should make you entitled to the tick. Is that a fair assessment?

Other than that keep trying!

My attempts to engineer a peak in form didn't really work. I basically stopped training in favour of having multiple rest days prior to redpoint attempts. This worked in the sense that I consistently got through the bulge about 4 sessions in a row but didn't quite get over the line. I then had an extended break (one week) over the bank holiday weekend (when it was too hot to be on the route anyway) and did very little training in that time as was doing family stuff/tradding in the Lakes. First session back was too hot but then had 3 sessions in a row where I did not get through the bulge again. Finally got through it again last go of second day on and got high again despite being knackered. This week I didn't go to the crag midweek and trained twice. Had a RP Sunday and through bulge first go. Go figure!

I have reflected on the sequence. I changed the beta a few sessions back which has helped, but the central problem is that I am too pumped/fatigued to close a crimp regardless of the sequence I use to get there. Closing this crimp quickly and feeling strong on the hold is the key; if I do this on a link go I almost always go to the top. Possibly this has a negative implication in that if I don't feel strong on the hold immediately, perhaps subconsciously I start thinking I'm not going to do the next move which contributes to spitting me off. Clearly I either need to be less pumped on arrival or be able to do more moves when pumped, as I don't think there is an alternative to using this crimp.

It isn't unusual to be spat off here which is good to know. From my research, most people who do it as their first 8c (ie without experience of climbing at that level which gives them a better understanding of how to deal with the situation) fall off there quite a lot. At least 3 people I've spoken to have dropped it there around 6 times, which tallies with my experience!

Strangely I am usually quite calm entering this sequence, breathing normally and thinking quite clearly. I find the section immediately preceding this quite steady and have just left a rest which i am normally in for a few minutes. Something I have started considering is that its hard to access that state of 'controlled aggression' sometimes required on a redpoint when you have been climbing smoothly and precisely for quite a while previously, along with having just tried to relax in the rest. On a previous go up there when I was absolutely knackered I really bust a gut on the crimps, screaming like Ondra and generally trying hard, and I did get further than I thought I would. Perhaps trying to access this state of mind again might be a plan next time I get there; this was my girlfriends advice at any rate; 'get angry with it!'

I don't think I'm entitled to the tick, but I am definitely frustrated that the last hurdle is tripping me up so consistently. I think my problem is basically that I'm not fit enough to consistently link the headwall from the kneebar in a oner, even off the rope. If I was able to do this link at the end of every session success would be a formality. I am capable of doing the route with my current fitness levels but I do need the cards to fall my way; climb well, good conditions and a little slice of luck. If it doesn't happen then next year my plan would be to take the luck out of equation and simply get fitter!

Apologies for the long self indulgent ramble!

Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: cheque on September 10, 2019, 12:17:43 pm
Apologies for the long self indulgent ramble!

That’s what Power Club’s for.
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: James Malloch on September 10, 2019, 12:20:40 pm


 but the central problem is that I am too pumped/fatigued to close a crimp regardless of the sequence I use to get there. Closing this crimp quickly and feeling strong on the hold is the key; if I do this on a link go I almost always go to the top.



Not that I have any idea what the route is like or any real knowledge of trying something at my limit.... but could it be possible to rest the crimping arm a lot more than your other? I.e. almost sacrifice your other arm in order to up the chances of closing the crimp.

Maybe this wouldn’t be feasible to then go on and finish the rest of the route, but it’s something I’ve done occasionally when trying routes/circuits indoors. I don’t try hard enough outside to need it haha!!
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: Will Hunt on September 10, 2019, 12:29:24 pm
Local mental health charities could have a quick win by just dropping a nuke on Malham. Look at the lives its destroyed.
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: shark on September 10, 2019, 02:30:14 pm
Sacking it off for the year? Come on shark, show some commitment to the route :)

 ;D

Tally so far is 9 sessions Feb-April 2 random sessions in June and then 7 sessions since middle of August.

Surprised you're talking about sacking it off, have conditions even got good yet this autumn?

Try to enjoy the process and keep trying, would be my advice that you didn't ask for and don't want!

I’m benchmarking against my 2015 season and my links are below par factoring in conditions.

Having analysed it the current show stopper seems to be weakness on a left hand gaston on the top traverse. This may have something to do with the left shoulder / arm joint which has been slightly out of sorts most of the year and at times feels like it is starting to dislocate at odd moments. Physio and stretches don’t seem to have helped except I have a greater range of movement.
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: shark on September 10, 2019, 02:32:26 pm
Local mental health charities could have a quick win by just dropping a nuke on Malham. Look at the lives its destroyed.

There was an article by a trad wad (Scottish I think) and his struggles with mental health. Unfortunately I can’t find a link. One of his top tips at the end of the article was to never climb at Malham.
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: spidermonkey09 on September 10, 2019, 02:49:19 pm
[quote author=James Malloch link=topic=30230.msg589722#msg589722 date=1568114440

Not that I have any idea what the route is like or any real knowledge of trying something at my limit.... but could it be possible to rest the crimping arm a lot more than your other? I.e. almost sacrifice your other arm in order to up the chances of closing the crimp.

Maybe this wouldn’t be feasible to then go on and finish the rest of the route, but it’s something I’ve done occasionally when trying routes/circuits indoors. I don’t try hard enough outside to need it haha!!
[/quote]

Its a good thought! The crimp is on the left hand but unfortunately there are numerous others on the right hand, some of which are much smaller. I think the thing that makes the move different is that on every other crimp on the route I can statically set my fingers on the hold and crimp it up before weighting it. This one involves a slight deadpoint style move/lunge out left, so I catch the hold open/drag and then close it, which feels much harder. Its a long reach so without being a mutant on the right hand I couldn't do this move statically. I remember experimenting with a different sequence which removed this lunge earlier in the year but it felt hard; might take another look at this though!
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: highrepute on September 10, 2019, 03:05:06 pm

Not read properly for a while...did you do any tapering for a peak?

In my (limited) experience, if I keep falling off at the same place then that bit needs a little rethink. Could be a beta change, or perhaps on the sharp-end you're failing to execute your beta properly, is there a clip you could skip, is the rest before this section being used effectively (I've founding counting breaths useful for when mental stress is sending me off rather than climbing ability...have a think maybe.

Your last comment makes it sound like the effort you've put should make you entitled to the tick. Is that a fair assessment?

Other than that keep trying!

My attempts to engineer a peak in form didn't really work. I basically stopped training in favour of having multiple rest days prior to redpoint attempts. This worked in the sense that I consistently got through the bulge about 4 sessions in a row but didn't quite get over the line. I then had an extended break (one week) over the bank holiday weekend (when it was too hot to be on the route anyway) and did very little training in that time as was doing family stuff/tradding in the Lakes. First session back was too hot but then had 3 sessions in a row where I did not get through the bulge again. Finally got through it again last go of second day on and got high again despite being knackered. This week I didn't go to the crag midweek and trained twice. Had a RP Sunday and through bulge first go. Go figure!

I have reflected on the sequence. I changed the beta a few sessions back which has helped, but the central problem is that I am too pumped/fatigued to close a crimp regardless of the sequence I use to get there. Closing this crimp quickly and feeling strong on the hold is the key; if I do this on a link go I almost always go to the top. Possibly this has a negative implication in that if I don't feel strong on the hold immediately, perhaps subconsciously I start thinking I'm not going to do the next move which contributes to spitting me off. Clearly I either need to be less pumped on arrival or be able to do more moves when pumped, as I don't think there is an alternative to using this crimp.

It isn't unusual to be spat off here which is good to know. From my research, most people who do it as their first 8c (ie without experience of climbing at that level which gives them a better understanding of how to deal with the situation) fall off there quite a lot. At least 3 people I've spoken to have dropped it there around 6 times, which tallies with my experience!

Strangely I am usually quite calm entering this sequence, breathing normally and thinking quite clearly. I find the section immediately preceding this quite steady and have just left a rest which i am normally in for a few minutes. Something I have started considering is that its hard to access that state of 'controlled aggression' sometimes required on a redpoint when you have been climbing smoothly and precisely for quite a while previously, along with having just tried to relax in the rest. On a previous go up there when I was absolutely knackered I really bust a gut on the crimps, screaming like Ondra and generally trying hard, and I did get further than I thought I would. Perhaps trying to access this state of mind again might be a plan next time I get there; this was my girlfriends advice at any rate; 'get angry with it!'

I don't think I'm entitled to the tick, but I am definitely frustrated that the last hurdle is tripping me up so consistently. I think my problem is basically that I'm not fit enough to consistently link the headwall from the kneebar in a oner, even off the rope. If I was able to do this link at the end of every session success would be a formality. I am capable of doing the route with my current fitness levels but I do need the cards to fall my way; climb well, good conditions and a little slice of luck. If it doesn't happen then next year my plan would be to take the luck out of equation and simply get fitter!

Apologies for the long self indulgent ramble!

Thanks for the reply, I wouldn't apologise. Every post here is self indulgent for me.

Not that I can really comment on 8c redpoints, but your situation does remind me of many of my redpoint experiences. I'm sure you already know this but I'd just keep trying and if it doesn't go this year then some specific training over winter will hopefully help come spring.

Probably you just that go where you're either magically more fit for some reason or climb so efficiently that you don't get pumped.
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: Will Hunt on September 10, 2019, 03:39:50 pm
Don't beat yourself up too much, Jim. Worth bearing in mind that you've done something like 5 7c+'s, 2 8a's, an 8a+, an 8b, and now you're skipping a grade to 8c. It was never going to be easy. You'll get there but it'll take time and be all the sweeter for it. If you find that you run into a mental wall, don't be afraid to take a little time away from it and backfill that grade pyramid. You'll have fun, refresh, and learn a few tricks on the way. And there's no reason you can't keep your hand in on Bat Route while you do it.

Obviously you're not at that stage yet, but it could be worth bearing in mind if things don't happen this autumn/next spring.
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: spidermonkey09 on September 10, 2019, 04:02:46 pm
Don't beat yourself up too much, Jim. Worth bearing in mind that you've done something like 5 7c+'s, 2 8a's, an 8a+, an 8b, and now you're skipping a grade to 8c. It was never going to be easy. You'll get there but it'll take time and be all the sweeter for it. If you find that you run into a mental wall, don't be afraid to take a little time away from it and backfill that grade pyramid. You'll have fun, refresh, and learn a few tricks on the way. And there's no reason you can't keep your hand in on Bat Route while you do it.

Obviously you're not at that stage yet, but it could be worth bearing in mind if things don't happen this autumn/next spring.


You're dead right, which is why I'm not beating myself up anymore really. I'm definitely overreaching at this stage and have done well to get this close. A load of mileage is the plan in Spain; I don't have a grade pyramid so much as a grade mobile phone tower currently! 
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: tomtom on September 10, 2019, 04:05:17 pm
Local mental health charities could have a quick win by just dropping a nuke on Malham. Look at the lives its destroyed.

A constant misting/sprinkler system would be far more cost effective....
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: SA Chris on September 10, 2019, 04:30:33 pm
Or a dog spray collar that squirts in your face any time you think about going there.
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: Rob F on September 10, 2019, 06:07:00 pm
"Yes I’ll still take him up till he does it but try and do Mescalito instead"

Wouldn't bother with that Mescalito- looks well grim...

https://youtu.be/hX_f3brdWvs
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: Rob F on September 10, 2019, 06:11:05 pm
Rather amazingly it's right alongside New Dawn too, coincidence???

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105996954/mescalito

(Any cheap shots directed towards Shark mentioning the grades of the above routes will be frowned upon!!!!!)
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: petejh on September 10, 2019, 06:16:34 pm
Having analysed it the current show stopper seems to be weakness on a left hand gaston on the top traverse. This may have something to do with the left shoulder / arm joint which has been slightly out of sorts most of the year and at times feels like it is starting to dislocate at odd moments.


Really? How many times this year - or in any year - have you climbed from the ground and got to that move on the top traverse?

I'd be surprised if you've got there more than a handful of times in many years, but happy to be wrong.

Looking through your posts for 2019 - and from memory every year has been the same theme - it seems that the recurring entry is 'failed to climb from the ground to the horn'. Clearly you can do from the horn to top. Just as clearly, the bouldering power to get from the ground to the horn is your weakest link. If you're consistently failing to do that move then your issue isn't anything to do with the top traverse...
(yet!)


2019:

Go3 Ground to getting fingers wrong in cramped sidepull which comprised set up throw but still managed to touch horn

Go3 Did the same but just touching rather than almost holding horn x2

Go4 tried throw to top but busted after doing throw

Go2 2nd bolt to greasing off the horn

Go3 From ground to almost getting horn

Go4 From ground got the horn but not the best and greased off

First redpoint go I climbed well and felt strong setting up for throw but having hurt my thumb wimped out of grabbing horn

First go climbed really well and got the horn but not in the ideal place - should have held it but didn’t.

Second go a bit hesitant and as about to do the lurch for the horn my right hand shot off the pinch

Third go my tips were screaming but managed to shut it out to get to touch the horn.

Go 1 pissed through start and unlucky not to hold horn.

Go 3 Ground to touching horn

Go 4 big effort required to do Ground to touching horn

Go 1 Ground to touching horn!

Go 2 Ground to going for cramped sidepull by 3rd bolt.

Go3 ground to nearly same point.

Go 4 pulled up to throw but was in bits and bailed

Go 1 and 2 Climbed slickly Ground to touching horn - second go more solid

Go 3 Back sore, tips screaming and tired but kept it together till shutdown on set up for throw.

Go 3. Rewarmed up on Consenting and to get used to new pair of whites. Went from second bolt on Oak but lost conviction going for horn but could have got it


That's 21 redpoints this year (I think, some may not be rps?) where you failed to do the move to the horn. Is it really that difficult to work out where you need to improve?
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: Rob F on September 10, 2019, 06:26:00 pm
Stylish Egyptian and I think it's in the bag...
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: shark on September 10, 2019, 07:20:22 pm
Having analysed it the current show stopper seems to be weakness on a left hand gaston on the top traverse. This may have something to do with the left shoulder / arm joint which has been slightly out of sorts most of the year and at times feels like it is starting to dislocate at odd moments.


Really? How many times this year - or in any year - have you climbed from the ground and got to that move on the top traverse?

I'd be surprised if you've got there more than a handful of times in many years, but happy to be wrong.

Looking through your posts for 2019 - and from memory every year has been the same theme - it seems that the recurring entry is 'failed to climb from the ground to the horn'. Clearly you can do from the horn to top. Just as clearly, the bouldering power to get from the ground to the horn is your weakest link. If you're consistently failing to do that move then your issue isn't anything to do with the top traverse...
(yet!)


2019:

Go3 Ground to getting fingers wrong in cramped sidepull which comprised set up throw but still managed to touch horn

Go3 Did the same but just touching rather than almost holding horn x2

Go4 tried throw to top but busted after doing throw

Go2 2nd bolt to greasing off the horn

Go3 From ground to almost getting horn

Go4 From ground got the horn but not the best and greased off

First redpoint go I climbed well and felt strong setting up for throw but having hurt my thumb wimped out of grabbing horn

First go climbed really well and got the horn but not in the ideal place - should have held it but didn’t.

Second go a bit hesitant and as about to do the lurch for the horn my right hand shot off the pinch

Third go my tips were screaming but managed to shut it out to get to touch the horn.

Go 1 pissed through start and unlucky not to hold horn.

Go 3 Ground to touching horn

Go 4 big effort required to do Ground to touching horn

Go 1 Ground to touching horn!

Go 2 Ground to going for cramped sidepull by 3rd bolt.

Go3 ground to nearly same point.

Go 4 pulled up to throw but was in bits and bailed

Go 1 and 2 Climbed slickly Ground to touching horn - second go more solid

Go 3 Back sore, tips screaming and tired but kept it together till shutdown on set up for throw.

Go 3. Rewarmed up on Consenting and to get used to new pair of whites. Went from second bolt on Oak but lost conviction going for horn but could have got it


That's 21 redpoints this year (I think, some may not be rps?) where you failed to do the move to the horn. Is it really that difficult to work out where you need to improve?

You seem to have omitted the go when I actually got to the top traverse earlier this year. It wasnt a good spring as I had three colds in succession and conditions were on/off. In Autumn 2015 I got to the top traverse 2x on 6 successive sessions IIRC.

Obviously the throw is the key.

That’s why I did the session where I went 2nd bolt to horn 4x as it meant doing the throw after 5 moves and that’s why I attempted to do setup and throw to top on the last session as whilst I mainly fell off each time because of weakness on the gaston at least I got to do the throw 6x.

Tomorrow I’ll find out whether this prep has set me up to do ground to horn and beyond or not.
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: petejh on September 10, 2019, 07:46:36 pm
Didn't omit by mistake, I only posted the go's where you failed at the horn.

Not trying to be an arse btw, I'll be genuinely pleased for you if/when you send it. Just wondering at some of your thought process.
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: tommytwotone on September 10, 2019, 08:02:30 pm
Back to unsolicited advice / enquiries...I'm kinda curious about the mental game here. With the caveat here that I know nothing about the route, hate UK limestone, haven't done anything remotely hard on bolts but what the hell.

Assuming that The Oak is at your limit, do you need (or at least do you think you need) to execute every move perfectly for success?

Probably a total generalisation on my part, but reading the breakdown above I have a suspicion that maybe you're trying to be too perfect about it

I'm assuming that if you've had attempts where you aren't catching holds 100% as you'd like etc, you're still trying to scrap through? Or is that not a viable plan?

To paraphrase everyones favourite annoying football pundit, could you be trying to "if anything Clive, climb that too well"?


 
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: tomtom on September 10, 2019, 08:06:32 pm
Climb dirty Shark!
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: Fiend on September 10, 2019, 08:34:38 pm
Assuming that The Oak is at beyond your limit, do you need (or at least do you think you need) to execute every move perfectly for success?
Possibly yes, I'm guessing.
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: cheque on September 10, 2019, 08:59:47 pm
If I’ve learnt anything from all the sport climbing siege write-ups I’ve read it’s that you finally do the route when you least expect it- just having a an optimistic but casual go from the floor, possibly in less-than-ideal conditions, usually at the end of the day, where you get through the crux and hold on ‘til the chains. Can’t be long now Shark, just keep turning up and keep (start?) believing that every go could be that one.
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: Rob F on September 10, 2019, 10:44:59 pm
Just think: tomorrow evening we could be logging on to ukb, watching footage of Shark smoothly and calmly powering his way up the oak, smashing it all the way to the belay...





























(in the bring out your dabs thread)
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: Will Hunt on September 10, 2019, 10:49:09 pm
I was going to post yesterday to say that Tommy would do it simply because he appeared to have fighting spirit (saying connies were decent when they costly weren't etc). If Shark is going to do the Oak he is going to have to fight to the chain. Here's to some redpoints from the floor and some pushing on even if things don't all go to plan.
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: slab_happy on September 11, 2019, 07:47:45 am
led Softest HVS in the Peak* Tody's Wall which is my first HVS since my accident.  :dance1:

Hey, I didn't realize it was the first post-accident! Congrats! And you still got on the block more stylishly than I did ...
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: tomtom on September 11, 2019, 08:12:19 am
Enjoy your day Shark. Thats the most important thing :)
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: Stu Littlefair on September 11, 2019, 10:36:05 am
have just left a rest which i am normally in for a few minutes.

Is this the rest at the birds nest or the higher undercuts? If the latter, i have a hunch you’re resting too long.
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: spidermonkey09 on September 11, 2019, 10:42:17 am

Is this the rest at the birds nest or the higher undercuts? If the latter, i have a hunch you’re resting too long.

Higher undercuts. Interesting; did you blast straight through after a cursory shake? Am I depleting myself in some way staying there longer even if it doesn't feel it?
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: abarro81 on September 11, 2019, 10:47:20 am
Something I have started considering is that its hard to access that state of 'controlled aggression' sometimes required on a redpoint when you have been climbing smoothly and precisely for quite a while previously, along with having just tried to relax in the rest.

Try some cheesy female-vocal euphoric trance before redpoint*- resty and floaty but also makes you want to run up a hill really fast. Always my go-to for long routes

*This may not work if you hate female-vocal euphoric trance 'cos you'll just be in a shit mood and punt move 2.


Stu is probably right - if you're fit enough to be spending a few minutes in that rest feeling chill then I'm surprised you're falling off after it.. sounds like you may not actually be getting as much back as you think you are? Worth a look/thought anyway..
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: Duma on September 11, 2019, 11:46:34 am

Try some cheesy female-vocal euphoric trance before redpoint*- resty and floaty but also makes you want to run up a hill really fast. Always my go-to for long routes

*This may not work if you hate female-vocal euphoric trance 'cos you'll just be in a shit mood and punt move 2.

Jesus Christ Barrows, always knew you were a wrong 'un, what with the leg shaving and all, but this is a step too far!
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: Fiend on September 11, 2019, 12:02:26 pm
Someone beat me to it! I thought barras was a training pro, where in his 18 page aero-pow systems pdf does it mention cheesey trance FFS  >:(
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: SA Chris on September 11, 2019, 12:28:58 pm
I hope you meant listening to it, not trying to sing it. That would be a bit much.

Imagine Barrows singing this before a redpoint;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pfo-8z86x80
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: abarro81 on September 11, 2019, 12:52:54 pm
Standard. In my luminous green shorts, kneepads and tops off, rubbing chalk into my moobs  (what's she doing at 0.50??) for speedy chalking up...

Best pre-long route/walking up a hill to the crag mix ever:
https://soundcloud.com/rave_on/armin-van-buuren-live-essential-mix-30052009

Is supect this will piss Fiend off even more, but cheesy female-vocal drum'n'bass also works. A significant number of my harder onsights/flashes have been fuelled by this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6apVJE_opy8
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: Yossarian on September 11, 2019, 01:03:16 pm
Fabriclive 98 / Dimension is my favoured drive to the crag sykemix...
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: Will Hunt on September 11, 2019, 06:32:03 pm
Standard. In my luminous green shorts, kneepads and tops off, rubbing chalk into my moobs  (what's she doing at 0.50??) for speedy chalking up...

Best pre-long route/walking up a hill to the crag mix ever:
https://soundcloud.com/rave_on/armin-van-buuren-live-essential-mix-30052009

Is supect this will piss Fiend off even more, but cheesy female-vocal drum'n'bass also works. A significant number of my harder onsights/flashes have been fuelled by this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6apVJE_opy8

In centuries to come, this post among others will be termed by digital archaeologists as "the worst excesses of UKBouldering.com".
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: Stu Littlefair on September 11, 2019, 09:43:53 pm

Is this the rest at the birds nest or the higher undercuts? If the latter, i have a hunch you’re resting too long.

Higher undercuts. Interesting; did you blast straight through after a cursory shake? Am I depleting myself in some way staying there longer even if it doesn't feel it?

Yep, listen to barrows. If you can spend two minutes there you should be able to piss to the top. Have at least one go with a cursory shake.

It’s all very personal, but I just chalked up there and pushed on.
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: JohnM on September 12, 2019, 09:12:59 am
I rested there for quite a long time but I think the key would be to arrive there quite fresh otherwise you would get diminishing returns. I thought the rest was decent but you had to work for it by constantly hand swapping and shuffling the feet up and down. To be honest I overstay my welcome in most rests anyway as it takes me ages to overcome the anxiety of setting off though the next section!

You probably don't want to change your beta on the crimpy headwall but I managed to make the moves a lot more static by stepping the outside edge of my right shoe on the small triangular edge twisting to the left with my knee facing that direction and hip close to the wall. It was harder to pull up into this position compared to the alternatives I tried but once there and twisted in it made the next moves much more static and controlled.
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: abarro81 on September 12, 2019, 09:27:08 am
Yeah, to clarify I rested there a while (unlike Stu).. but then didn't fall off the top.. not so much surprised that people rinse the rest, just that they'd be fit enough to rinse the rest but not then to finish it up (or, say, only blow the top bit once)
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: spidermonkey09 on September 12, 2019, 09:54:08 am
Thanks all. If I get through the boulder this weekend I'll hit the afterburners after a quick shake and see what happens!
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: shark on September 12, 2019, 11:20:47 am
3 decent redpoint attempts yesterday but didn’t quite get the horn. Tommy got up on the top traverse 4 times.

Fiend was on the Catwalk  :o What with Will being there last time I’m fully expecting Dolly, Tomtom and Lagerstarfish to make an appearance next time. It’s like the ghosts of Christmas past.

2nd redpoint attempt (best go but hand slipped off intermediate as initiating launch)
https://youtu.be/G_-WfRwXTwQ

3rd redpoint attempt (tired)

https://youtu.be/Pv_JcNLW2Gs

Tommy on the Oak
https://youtu.be/sekgzEdx53c
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: Yossarian on September 12, 2019, 11:51:16 am
In my book, climbing (part of the way up) 8bs with your kids = winning at life. Bravo!
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: Doylo on September 12, 2019, 12:28:48 pm
Can’t believe your son doesn’t wear Whites. Are you sure he’s yours?
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: shark on September 12, 2019, 03:06:47 pm
Can’t believe your son doesn’t wear Whites. Are you sure he’s yours?

He ran out of them
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: shark on September 12, 2019, 03:14:02 pm
In my book, climbing (part of the way up) 8bs with your kids = winning at life. Bravo!

 ;D It’s been a long investment

James Ibbertson was at the crag with his son, Josh who’s climbed 8c!

http://www.borealoutdoor.com/fr/communaute/detail/2019/09/06/we-interviewed-jack-and-josh-ibbertson

Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: Will Hunt on September 12, 2019, 03:23:11 pm
FFS, they've both climbed 8c. I think I already knew that but, fuck me!, why do any of us even bother!
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: tomtom on September 12, 2019, 03:35:24 pm
Well done Shark. Sounds like a grand day.

Did tommy have a bit more psyche this week?

Ps. No chance of seeing me there unless I’m taking a load of students to look at limestone pavements 😃
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: spidermonkey09 on September 12, 2019, 03:36:46 pm
FFS, they've both climbed 8c. I think I already knew that but, fuck me!, why do any of us even bother!

Watched Jack smash in Bat Route a few months ago. Incredible to watch, especially using the nails sequence as he couldn't reach half the holds...
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: cheque on September 12, 2019, 04:56:59 pm
FFS, they've both climbed 8c

in Boreals.

fuck me!, why do any of us even bother!

Personally burning children off has never been a big motivator for me.  ;) I think having parents who are dedicated climbers is a hugely underrated factor in becoming a very good climber though. It's certainly one that loads of megawads have in common.
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: Bradders on September 12, 2019, 05:48:26 pm
The fact that Jack's done Exorcist is well impressive as well. Grit is not a helpful medium for the shorter climber, and I can think of a couple of moves which are a big stretch for most adults!
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: Will Hunt on September 12, 2019, 06:10:53 pm
Hmmm  :-\   36C has done Exorcist and he's not much over 3ft.

And Ben has done it or been close and we all know how fucking short he is  ::) :boohoo:
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: dunnyg on September 12, 2019, 06:29:43 pm
You should get on it Will, you can probably skip out about 10 moves, probably only 6C+ like that.
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: 36chambers on September 12, 2019, 07:06:06 pm
You should get on it Will, you can probably skip out about 10 moves, probably only 6C+ like that.

But let's be serious for a second, we all know Will will never climb harder than 7C.
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: Will Hunt on September 12, 2019, 07:41:13 pm
It's true!
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: Rob F on September 13, 2019, 09:53:48 am
Sod the Olympics.

Shark vs Tommy vs The Oak.

Haute tension extraordinaire!!!!!
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: monkoffunk on September 13, 2019, 11:37:06 am
The olympics is every four years. Big deal.

Shark climbing the Oak. That would be a once in a lifetime kind of event.
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: SA Chris on September 13, 2019, 12:02:02 pm
When / if Shark does it, conversation on here will halve, nothing to talk about..
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: Footwork on September 13, 2019, 01:17:02 pm
until he starts trying Bat Route
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: Mr E S Capegoat on September 13, 2019, 02:53:13 pm
When / if Shark does it, conversation on here will halve, nothing to talk about..

I could fill the gap if you’d like Chris?
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: SA Chris on September 13, 2019, 04:03:27 pm
Um, no cheers.
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: Mr E S Capegoat on September 13, 2019, 06:25:02 pm
Tsk, so MainStream
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: Rob F on September 13, 2019, 07:21:32 pm
FFS, they've both climbed 8c. I think I already knew that but, fuck me!, why do any of us even bother!

Will- there's only one thing stopping you climbing 8c.

A quick 20 min tidy up of your garage so you can actually sit down at the bottom of your board and jobs a good un...
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: Footwork on September 13, 2019, 07:31:05 pm
I think having parents who are dedicated climbers is a hugely underrated factor in becoming a very good climber though. It's certainly one that loads of megawads have in common.

This. Though not sure my dad would have enjoyed belaying me 3 hours every Sunday morning any more than running the pitch line in the cold.

Even if you climb 8c, you probably want to climb 9a. It never ends...
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: cheque on September 13, 2019, 08:32:16 pm
not sure my dad would have enjoyed belaying me 3 hours every Sunday morning any more than running the pitch line in the cold.

Your dad was/ is a climber though, right?
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: Mr E S Capegoat on September 13, 2019, 11:02:59 pm
FFS, they've both climbed 8c. I think I already knew that but, fuck me!, why do any of us even bother!

Will- there's only one thing stopping you climbing 8c.

A quick 20 min tidy up of your garage so you can actually sit down at the bottom of your board and jobs a good un...

I’d bet my ass on the fact that statement bares no resemblance to any current dimensional reality
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: Dolly on September 14, 2019, 03:50:26 pm

Fiend was on the Catwalk  :o What with Will being there last time I’m fully expecting Dolly, Tomtom and Lagerstarfish to make an appearance next time. It’s like the ghosts of Christmas past.




I reckon you could do a sitter to that long problem you're trying mate
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: tomtom on September 14, 2019, 04:16:46 pm

Fiend was on the Catwalk  :o What with Will being there last time I’m fully expecting Dolly, Tomtom and Lagerstarfish to make an appearance next time. It’s like the ghosts of Christmas past.




I reckon you could do a sitter to that long problem you're trying mate

No one starts anything from the bottom there so they.. always doing stuff from that ledge. 

Back around everyone. 😃
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: Rob F on September 14, 2019, 05:27:00 pm
Never mind that bottom bit, that's easy. All those little walks up to the top of the crag. I reckon Shark's up to summat...
Title: Re: Power Club 496 2-8 Sept
Post by: Rob F on September 14, 2019, 05:33:39 pm
When / if Shark does it, conversation on here will halve, nothing to talk about..

Anyone who has ever looked at UKB, even for a split second has by default given up their chance to onsight the Oak...
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