UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Danny on March 15, 2017, 01:52:01 pm
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Does anyone do these as a systematic part of their training? I notice there are Slagboard league tables for this kind of thing, but is that just show boating, or does it serve some specific purpose as distinct from, say max hangs for ~10secs at the relevant weight/hold combo? I've started doing this at the end of my repeater sessions, purely for interest really.
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I'm not sure if there is any scientific veracity for this, but the common thinking seemed to be best adding weight once you can comfortably hang for 10 secs.
I'm not sure going to failure is such a good idea with tendons, pulleys etc. Mainly a hunch.
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IIRC, there is a basis for more weight versus smaller hold, but only in a like-for-like max hang ~10 sec comparison. Eva Lopez study I think.