UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: tomtom on December 04, 2016, 04:11:22 pm
-
(https://i.ytimg.com/vi/ciayqUMCViY/hqdefault.jpg)
M: Bern - Work
Tu: Bern and home
We: Craig-Y-Longridge. Rubbish. Conditions were not great (dry but spoogy) and I failed on everything I tried. Felt pathetic and went home after 90 min. A truly dismal showing
Th: Work
Fr: Boibage North - Was planning to head to X to meet up with Shark - but he found it wet so diverted to BBG N. Arrived just as Shark and Nick were decamping. Wandered down to Secteur Remergence to re-open my Winter 2016 Blind Date account. Much amusement followed. Mainly surrounding - Shark bringing a rope and harness with him - so he could ab down and try the final moves (once grabbed the lip) on blind date. And.. Shark only took two left foot whites with him from the car (TBH I recon it wouldnt make much difference) and whilst he trotted back to the car - wearing harness in full on punter mode - his rope 'mysteriously' disappeared... :) Don't know how that happened. Anyway, persuaded Shark to try the moves from stacked pads (its kind of ground up) and various attempts were made on various parts of the problem. So, Nick could do the first move really well, and get the slot with LH, but couldnt get the second slot. Shark could do the first move really well and get the slot after a bit of faffing and skin losing, but not the second slot. I couldnt do the first move, but from the ground could pull on the edge crimp and sloper, get the first slot, second slot and reach across for the lip. If you took the best bit from all of us there may have been an an ascent..
Anyway - I discovered a few things.
(1) I need to crimp the first RH hold hard to do the first move.
(2) The only form of sustenance that Shark bought with him was a large block of cheese. That he nibbled on. No carbs :/
(3) Three different climbers, slightly different heights - all probably operating in similar grades all shut down on different parts of what really should be a shit problem, but is actually quite good.
Grand.
Sa:
Su: 3-4 hours sleep as TT jnr had a bad night... out of the house at 7:30 - went up to Remergence again. Minty conditions - took ages to warm up. But did standing to both slots 2nd, 3rd and 4th time... Did first move (that I for some reason have real problems with - 2-3 times in a row. Ran out of skin fast. Fingers were still hurting from Friday - as was my right lat (all that locking off on the RH). Bailed soon after the sun hit it about 9:45. Picked up a hitcher on the way home (First time in years) and had good converstaion for 1/2 the way back.
-
You can get it like a clamp with the right thigh to reach the second slot I think :-\
-
Had a Cold all week, skipped all my planned sessions.
Su - Indoors, good session again, but sure the grades are getting really soft, 6B flash, 6B second gox2, Good progress on 6C, Plus lots of volume. Don't look at the grade, just get a decent workout. Should've been outside, but too much work to do.
-
STG: Get to the top of a moonboard by any means whatsoever.
MTG (Spring 2017): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.
Bitterly cold, damp & overcast here; chances of getting outside look poor for the foreseeable future. Focus on getting stronger for the spring.
M: Beastmaker max hangs. Benchmarking to see if I improve over the winter. One-handed max hang for ~5 seconds on medium campus rung at with 30kg assistance right, 35kg left. Two handed bodyweight hang on small campus rung 5 secs on, 5 off x 13.
T: Bike one hour
W: Beastmaker max hangs. Another benchmarking session: two handed weighted hang on small campus rung: +20kg ~4 seconds.
T: Boulderwelt. Good session. The lad was tired from kayak club after school so didn't fancy coming, and the wall was relatively quiet, so I was able to take my time trying things a bit more than I usually can on weekday evenings, and get a forty minute core & shoulders session in in the weights room afterwards.
F:
S: Half hour shoulder rehab & mobility
S: Boulderwelt. Not such a good session as Thursday, but ok.
-
You can get it like a clamp with the right thigh to reach the second slot I think :-\
I do a really deep flag with my right leg to get my weight under the left slot and can pad my RH up to the slot. Its not quite static, but not a desperate slap... just felt right that way - didnt work for the others..
-
Wow, that's some weight through the bad left foot hold!
-
10.13-11.1
M. PM Fingerboard repeaters (drag) Eve Foundry Wave Resetting in Furnace so couldn't use my prefered autobelay line for aerocap, Had a go on lattice board to see if 20:10s were feasible. Forgetaboutit. Bouldered on Wave trying hard yellow level 2 in middle. Did all the moves - which I couldnt last time tried it with Dolly. Evening. No hippie utterances. Some quite tough stuff ie sideplanks . Hamstring and shoulder flexibilty woeful.
T. Morning. Blue skies and sub zero. Out to Burbage before 10am. Remergence already in sun but cold enough not to matter. Joined by nai. Progressively better goes including getting hand to left slot. Then got both slots got left foot across to pebble but struggled to get enough traction of right hand hold flailed left hand over top bulge and was off. Maybe should have pressed out on left foot but seems fucking hard. A few more goes after nai left but skin and body was fading and starting to feel less grippy. Headed back to car at 1pm ish. Still heart wrenchingly beautiful day. Couldnt face going back to Sheff and didnt fancy Froggatt where Dolly and Lagers were. On a whim headed to Crag X. Got the top link after half a dozen goes. Then started trying from ground. Got to fingers in slot but didnt hold it. Went back to car to warm up and short nap. Had another go from ground and felt much stronger - got slot then edge to the right - feet flew off but reeled it back in to final footholds -snatched for final flake - Got it but didn't hold it. Back on the mat. Had a few more goes and got as far as slot but was tired. Headed back just after 4pm. In short highpoints on Jericho Road 7B and Blind Date 7B+ ;D
W. AM Systems board Leaf clearing to warm up. Few pulls on crusher crimps - felt good. Throws and gaston practice. PM AnCap session Eve AeroCap on autobelays
T.
F. Met Nick at crag x at 10. Wet. Drove to Burb N. TT met us there. Cloudy - much warmer than mon but with sun off conditions were mint. Keen to work the top of Blind Date on a rope but was sabotaged. Lots of goes on Blind Date with two goes going for right slot. Then worked top moves off stacked pads. Bullied TT into crimping the first hold. Nick did really well on it as a first visit. Seem to have a sequence but too busted for a redpoint by time we had sussed it. TT left. Me and Nick did Small is Beautiful 7A after about 4 attempts. Started spitting and both tired so went to Outside for coffee. Eve. Fingerboard Repeaters- half crimp. DB finger rolls. Wide pull ups
S. AM Moved a shit ton of leaves and lots of pruning. Lunch Systems board Gastons and throws practice PM More gardening Late PM Tired but managed an AnCap session. Eve Sebs birthday :pissed:
S. Hungover. Took boys to Far Skyline. Winter sun but a cooold wind. Fell off a 4a! Did some more warm ups then me and Ben got to work unlocking moves on Clamp Arete Sit start 7A+. Good problem, We both did it - Bens first outdoor 7A+ (unless ity gets downgraded). Then did the brilliant The Shepherd 6C+ which was a slabby wall with a very long rock up. Had some goes at Sidepull Wall 7A but was a struggle to stay warm. Seemed like a tall mans problem Got buffeted about in the wind on the walk back
Starting 12 week training programme this week. This should include sessions of 2xWave bouldering, 2xGastons&Throws practice, 2xAnCap, 2xAeroCap, 2xGeneral Strength and 2xFingerboard.Not looking forward to it - I'd much rather fart about on the grit but desperate measures are required
Ace week. Really packed it in. Didnt quite manage all the target training sessions but the Grit conditions were too tempting. Think the general strength sessions I am going to leave out from now on and just keep doing the yoga as a substitute. Otherwise planning to have a similar week this week.
-
Did some more warm ups then me and Ben got to work unlocking moves on Clamp Arete Sit start 7A+. Good problem, We both did it - Bens first outdoor 7A+ (unless ity gets downgraded).
6C on peakbouldering :/
A good week Shark... all that climb fastertm advice is paying off!
-
Wow, that's some weight through the bad left foot hold!
:D maybe - for me once its on correctly it doesnt come off.. but getting it on right is tricky - I'm inflexible so its a bit of a flail and paste job rather than precision placement.. I also find the sensitivity of a slipper rather than something stiffer works better for me.. I've been told I'm tall (isnt it just that everyone smaller is short?) so that may help.. I can then keep my LF on that one hold and reach through with my LH for the edge...
-
Throws and gaston practice. PM AnCap session
Lunch Systems board Gastons and throws practice. PM Tired but managed an AnCap session.
Didnt quite manage all the target training sessions
Why don't you create an AnCap circuit containing throws and gastons, that'd save you two sessions and you'd get used to fighting through them while powering out.
-
stg - sort neck out, keep up the basics.
Mon - Pilates for the first time in an attempt to resolve my back and neck issues. And, as it turns out, another chance for someone to tell me my posture's fucked. Burnt off by a 70 year old. Not sure.
Tue -
AM - Remergence for a couple of hours with Simon. Unbelievably poor but proved a nice warm up for....
Lunch - base fingerboard session 10. Much better, performance as per session 6.
Wed - HI AeroCap
Thu physio
Fri -
AM - LI AeroCap 4x10mins
Eve - base fb session 11. Very good, slightly better than where I left off before the enforced break. Might be ready to move on to Maxxies but
Sat - swim, as suggested by physio to help with neck, c800m. Again, unsure how much it will help.
Sun - nowt
Been stretching & foam rolling everyday trying to sort this neck thing out but nothing seems to be helping. It's getting a bit frustrating now, giving yoga a go tomorrow and booked in for a deep tissue massage on Friday.
Ommmmm.
-
Swimming always seems to make my thoracic spine/shoulders feel better... or more worked should I say...
-
Throws and gaston practice. PM AnCap session
Lunch Systems board Gastons and throws practice. PM Tired but managed an AnCap session.
Didnt quite manage all the target training sessions
Why don't you create an AnCap circuit containing throws and gastons, that'd save you two sessions and you'd get used to fighting through them while powering out.
Genius
-
Swimming always seems to make my thoracic spine/shoulders feel better... or more worked should I say...
generating movement and rotation in and around the thoracic is the idea. First few lengths I could barely turn enough to take a breathe but things did improve slightly.
-
Did some more warm ups then me and Ben got to work unlocking moves on Clamp Arete Sit start 7A+. Good problem, We both did it - Bens first outdoor 7A+ (unless ity gets downgraded).
6C on peakbouldering :/
Wow - that's harsh. 7A is fair. Its harder than Small is Beautiful.
-
Swimming always seems to make my thoracic spine/shoulders feel better... or more worked should I say...
generating movement and rotation in and around the thoracic is the idea. First few lengths I could barely turn enough to take a breathe but things did improve slightly.
Doing the hands behind the neck (clasped) elbows together at the front and try and draw a 8 with your elbows ecercise?
-
M
T Froggatt with Lagers. Despite being -2 at the Chequers the rock was actually pretty warm in the sun -someone was even doing routes in shorts. Great going with Lagers - he just knows loads of stuff about stuff, so he identified a flock of redwings, some other birds from Norway and a jay just by hearing it. Played and failed on Hot Toddy, which I thought was a great problem. Its not 7a though. Last week I did a 7b in 5 goes and this felt harder. It was too hot but we had a look at Pig heart boy, just to confirm that it needs to be cold.
W I was due to go out riding with fatdoc and Norton, but I'd started to come down with something so decided I couldn't manage it. Managed about 20 minutes of core/kettlebells at the gym , but struggled.
T ill with cold
F I decree today that life is simply taking and not giving
S Managed 5 easy routes at the gym as I still felt weak but couldn't stand the thought of doing nothing. Didn't go to Seb's do as it was my son's 17th - Champagne and curry.
S Went for a walk with youngest to Ox Stones where it was fucking freezing. Burbage North for last hour of daylight. Met a young bloke and showed him how to do Banana Finger and the direct for the first time which he was chuffed with. Its great showing the classic problems to someone who hasn't done them before and just needed a spot and a bit of encouragement.
Hopefully I'm over the cold/virus thing and next week should see some more ticking action
-
Busy week but a good day today training wise.
Flights got booked for late-Feb France trip early in the week.
M-S 30 Pressups each day and an easy cycle to work. Played a gig Thursday so had to practice most evenings and try to finish work before a week off.
Today - Cycled to the Westway to meet Bridbeast and had a great session. The cycle really helps with warming up. Flashed the last remaining red, flashed two whites and got stuck in to two more. One went, the other has a nails move. Faded after 1:30 so packed it in.
I'm on a holiday this week doing an Intermediate Skills cooking course at Prue Leiths school which I'm really excited about. Plan to get to the wall Wednesday and Friday and over the weekend. At least I'll be able to cook good food for the team in France even if I climb like a lump.
-
stg - sort neck out, keep up the basics.
Mon - Pilates for the first time in an attempt to resolve my back and neck issues. And, as it turns out, another chance for someone to tell me my posture's fucked. Burnt off by a 70 year old. Not sure.
Tue -
AM - Remergence for a couple of hours with Simon. Unbelievably poor but proved a nice warm up for....
Lunch - base fingerboard session 10. Much better, performance as per session 6.
Wed - HI AeroCap
Thu physio
Fri -
AM - LI AeroCap 4x10mins
Eve - base fb session 11. Very good, slightly better than where I left off before the enforced break. Might be ready to move on to Maxxies but
Sat - swim, as suggested by physio to help with neck, c800m. Again, unsure how much it will help.
Sun - nowt
Been stretching & foam rolling everyday trying to sort this neck thing out but nothing seems to be helping. It's getting a bit frustrating now, giving yoga a go tomorrow and booked in for a deep tissue massage on Friday.
Ommmmm.
There's a good book called treat your own neck prob pick it up for a few quid* on amazon. Might help 👍
-
cheers, £2.75 off ebay, gotta be worth a shot.
-
Shark, surely a ladder to work blind date is more your style?
Blind Date tip: to match the slots some people (me including) find it easier to first bob right hand up onto an inset slopey pebble thing, then go again to RH slot. Doesn't look like much but lifts your chest around the lip so makes it easier.
After matching slots you can go straight up to lip with left foot still where it is on the little lip foothold, if pebble is not working for you.
If you're getting close on BD i'd just sack off trying lime 7a+s like Jericho Road at all until spring now.
-
STG: zoo york
MTG: zoo york
LTG: zoo york
M:
T: Caley. First session on Zoo York 8A this season. Took a while to remember/figure out the beta, but I have it all sorted now. I think my success rate of doing the three crux moves individually and perfectly was about 40%, which meant I had a 6.4% chance of linking them. Should definitely be able to improve on those odds next time.
W: left shoulder a tad tender.
T:
F:
S: Quick hit at Almscliff. flailed on my warm up. flailed on my 3-4 goes on Slopey Trav 7C.
S: Birthday at Bridestones. Climbed Cleopatra 7A and Jerry's Arete 7B+. Which are two problems I've wanted to get on for a long time. Almost completely sandbagged myself on Jerry's, having forgotten my beta and trying it with a whack sequence for quite a while. Thankfully I realised and managed to climb it fine on perhaps my last possible go :)
6 of my fingertips are shot, so I think it's back to the 50 till the weekend.
-
Shark, surely a ladder to work blind date is more your style?
Blind Date tip: to match the slots some people (me including) find it easier to first bob right hand up onto an inset slopey pebble thing, then go again to RH slot. Doesn't look like much but lifts your chest around the lip so makes it easier.
After matching slots you can go straight up to lip with left foot still where it is on the little lip foothold, if pebble is not working for you.
If you're getting close on BD i'd just sack off trying lime 7a+s like Jericho Road at all until spring now.
Thanks Dave - yes I use the "intermediate" pebble which I think is good enough to do a foot move off. Not tall enough keep my foot on the original foothold and reach lip I think - instead I move my left foot in on a sloper on the lip (below a white pebble) which helps to get the right slot
Tried the ladder in last winter but was awkward and I can't find it now anyway (SamT have you still got it?). Definitely going to keep at it - it's only 15minsdrive - but combining that with a crag x hit seems to work well though I suspect that x is now wet for the winter
-
STG: Heal elbow, Zippy's
MTG: More 7B/+s
LTG: 8A
M: Arch, felt strong. Hour on problems, hour on board leaves me feeling worked - in a good way!
T:
W: Arch, board projects are feeling easier...
T:
F:
S: Plantation. Rained a lot over night frustratingly and Zippy's was wet most of the day. Basically did Glass Hour 4th go but couldn't hold the top - stream of water seeping out of a break above. Tried Captain Hook for the first time and got some relatively good beta. Wanted to save something for Zippy's. Eventually it had dried enough to try it. Tweaked beta and sent through to swinging on the final jug, only to dab slightly on a pad :'( Couldn't repeat, buggered. Definitely will go next time... Ran over to Buckstone in the dark, across a bog to look at the dyno. No idea and knackered so left after not too long.
S: Felt pretty tired, went to Burbage South. Almost did Attitude Inspector, More Cheese Gromit. Left elbow was hurting quite a lot, taping helped a bit. Unproductive day.
Frustrating weekend, elbow really sore overnight and this morning. I think it's linked to me bashing it a month and a half ago. Pain inside the elbow itself, rather than on any obvious tendons :-\
-
There's a good book called treat your own neck prob pick it up for a few quid* on amazon. Might help 👍
I'd agree. Likely to be a lot more helpful than foam rollers etc.
-
M - LI AeroCap
T - Max Hangs - 5 x half crimp on Lattice +20Kg, 2.5mins rest. 4 x middle two +10Kg, 2.5 mins rest (one was actually 3.5mins rest - still a personal best).
W - 1.5hr session Myofacial release treatment. Later, 30 mins moving around wall. Lower back felt loosest in years - high steps and drop knees felt really good!
T - P.M. Wave. Did White with black spots and red on wave. Felt really good, keeping feet on well (due to more movement in lower back?)
F -
S - A.M. 5Km run to test back for running - felt good. P.M. Works Motherboard. Not as good as previous sessions, felt a bit tired and v cold. 2 x 7A+, 1 x 7B. Session cut short.
S - P.M. Made myself do some repeaters. 3 x drag on Moon, 2 x front 3 drag, failing on rep 4 of 3rd set 2.5 mins rest. 2 x 10 pull ups.
I was still struggling with my back Mon/Tue so had some treatment (Myofacial release). On Wednesday evening it was the first time in 6 years that I couldn't feel any tension/discomfort in my lower back. Part of the treatment was re-aligning my pelvis. It feels as though the muscles around the base of my back are now saying wtf?! So, I still have some discomfort and feel vulnerable in certain positions, but overall there is more movement. Climbing immediately after the treatment highlighted the extent to which I have been limited by such stiffness in my lower back. It also make me realise how it's taken some of the enjoyment out of climbing.
Thought I'd overdone it Tuesday doing 4 x +10Kg (a PB) on middle two, but fingers feel OK.
Looks as though we're going to get a homeboard built in the garage, though Mrs T_B is keen for it to be steeper than I'd like it to be (she wants 40 degrees, I'd been keen for less steep and smaller holds... thinking back to the Schoolroom 30 degree board when it was the right angle). 3m high by 3.3m wide hopefully.
-
There's a good book called treat your own neck prob pick it up for a few quid* on amazon. Might help 👍
I'd agree. Likely to be a lot more helpful than foam rollers etc.
We talking this one yo?
As a fellow terrible postured / injured Power Club member I might grab it too.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Treat-Your-Neck-Robin-McKenzie/dp/0987650416 (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Treat-Your-Neck-Robin-McKenzie/dp/0987650416)
-
That's the one TTT.
-
M 28 Turbo early AM Gym AM
T 29 Turbo early AM Gym AM
W 30 Turbo early AM Gym AM
T 01 Turbo early AM bike ride PM
F 02 Turbo early AM Gym PM
S 03 Turbo early AM Gym AM
S 04 Turbo early AM Gym AM seaside walk PM
Really getting into dawn sessions on a turbo trainer, short and sweet. Feeling like it may actually be productive too, at least far more so than trying to climb absolutely first thing. Had planned for a climb or two as well, but lifts/partners fell through. The gym is starting to wear a bit thin, but making slow progress on general conditioning. Watched a dude at the gym bench press 240kg one day this week. Now that is some power; mind you i don't suppose he would get up much at Malham.
-
We talking this one yo?
As a fellow terrible postured / injured Power Club member I might grab it too.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Treat-Your-Neck-Robin-McKenzie/dp/0987650416 (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Treat-Your-Neck-Robin-McKenzie/dp/0987650416)
That's what I ordered, Tom, but I found it cheaper/est on ebay for the most recent edition.
Enjoyed yoga this morning, much more like a workout than pilates, you could feel yourself getting deeper into each position and a better stretch as they cycled round. Dare I say I can feel improvement in my neck already (although this is likely temporary, it always feels better after manipulation at physio as well.)
-
Mrs T_B is keen for it to be steeper than I'd like it to be (she wants 40 degrees, I'd been keen for less steep and smaller holds... thinking back to the Schoolroom 30 degree board
If only there was another angle somewhere between 30 and 40 :-\
-
Mrs T_B is keen for it to be steeper than I'd like it to be (she wants 40 degrees, I'd been keen for less steep and smaller holds... thinking back to the Schoolroom 30 degree board
If only there was another angle somewhere between 30 and 40 :-\
50?
-
I was going to suggest 45, but your suggestion is better.
-
I have never heard of a 35 degree board.
-
A BOGOF
STG: Rehab. shoulder.
MTG: project a 7b. Manage life's stresses more effectively (specific goals here but not for ukb).
LTG: Font 7A. 7b+. E5. Tempi Moderni next summer + one other long, hard and free
BHAG: Chant du Cygne
M - Westway. Tweaked L. shoulder in the warm-up.
T - Evening with habrich and son #2. :wave:
W
T - Shoulder rehab. exercises.
F
S - Portland with the retired super-Alpinist. Southern England claggy all over but the clouds cleared as we approached the scepter'd isle. Glorious day, Blacknor deserted. Warmed up very slowly and puntered around up to 6b+. Felt great to be on rock, only the second time in 3 months. Shoulder improved as the day progressed.
S - Shoulder rehab. exercises.
M - Shoulder rehab. exercises.
T - Westway. Bouldering to V2. Tweaked shoulder again.
W -
T - Shoulder rehab. exercises.
F - Shoulder rehab. exercises.
S - Shoulder rehab. exercises.
S - Portland with the retired super-Alpinist. Blacknor again, much busier than previous weekend. Sunny and very pleasant in the sun to start, gradually clouded over and was bitter by the end of the day. Repeated last weekend’s process but the warming-up didn’t work and shoulder felt pretty sore this time.
Missed two weeks - sore shoulder, continued stresses at work, chest infection, generally run-down, all obviously related - meant no climbing. Trying to get to grips with all of the above. Very easy and prolonged warm-up climbing with the sun on my back works...but tricky to do this in the UK in December! Long-term goals need strength and power deficits addressing but I’m just going to have to be patient for a few weeks and stick with the rehab. and aerocaping.
-
Power Club
Mon - hill sprint x6; 25' bag.
Tue - rest.
Wed - front lever pulls 10x5, brutal. Cleans 5x5 46kg. Trap pulls 5x2.
Thu - board climbing, reacquainted with two projects, singles and short links, not bad. PE low, new routine 1'30" on/1'30" off x5, fell at 45" of fourth set. Hard. Various weights (shoulder rotations, incline trap extension, dumbbell complex, shoulder walk) absolutely brutal. The board is very hard, no wonder I climb things on rock.
Fri - shoulder rotations, front raise, dumbbell thruster 10x5. Recovery session.
Sat - board climbing, tried one project, 16 degrees, 64% humidity, useless, must sort this thing out. PE low, new routine fell at 1' on fourth set. Cool. Boxing bag 25'. Brilliant session.
Sun - shoulder rotations; ab wheel x100; dumbbell complex; boxing bag. Very cool.
Very glad to be back on the board, I was terrified about it. Now I'm happy because I know that climbing on it makes me strong.
Sadly still being unable - or lacking the courage - to crimp is an issue. A serious one.
Battled horrid conditions, up to 73% humidity, got a dehumidifier from fellow Filz, hopefully projects will start falling soon. Only four or five left now.
-
Battled horrid conditions, up to 73% humidity
Yeah, 73% is about the kind of level when I think "wow, low humidity today, conditions will be good."
-
Battled horrid conditions, up to 73% humidity
Yeah, 73% is about the kind of level when I think "wow, low humidity today, conditions will be good."
;D
Is your board in the Rain Forest?
-
It's relative humidity. For the same volume of water in a body of air, it will be more relatively humid (i.e. closer to condensation, "100% humidity") if the air is cold. So in the warm Mediterranean climes of Spain, 73% might mean that there's a lot of water knocking about, and it's warm. In winter in the UK, when you see that it's sub 5 degrees and 73% you know that the gritstone gods are smiling. Normally the cold weather makes the usually moist westerly winds hang around the 80-90% humidity mark. If you were looking solely at the temps you might think it was a perfect connies day, but look out of the window and you might see lots of grey clag hanging around (today is such a day in West Yorkshire).
-
Good knowledge, thanks.
Well, recently I've had between 14 and 18 degrees at the board, with humidity ranging from 60 to 73 percent or even more...
-
M- Boulder - 1.5 hrs - felt reasonably strong
T - nuffing
W - Boulder session - 1.5 hrs felt reasonably strong, skin thin after Monday.
T - nuffing
F - AM weigh in - 13st. No idea how I got there, but not complaining.
free bar for Xmas do at work. Reasonably restrained, got 9:15 bus.
S - short walk in morning to clear head (needed a pack of bacon too), boulder comp in afternoon. Dug in, managed a couple of "at limit" probs by the skin of my teeth, and any that shut me down did so with conviction. 2nd in Vets after crimpy Gareth.
S - wasted, arms in bits. Short walk with kids in arvo, and some yoga getting Xmas tree down from loft.
-
Literally cut and paste from last week, with a few numbers changed...
M- 1. Max hangs 1-arm pulley assist BM2k small crimp 1/2crimp: 10 sets up to -8kg x 6s
2. Finger pull-ups (open hand to open crimp) 2-arm big crimp: 6 sets up to +20 x 1
3. Max hangs 2-arm BM2k small crimps 1/2 crimp: 6 sets mostly +30 x 8s
T- 1. Max hangs 3 finger drag BM2k small crimp: 7 sets up to -12 x 3s
2. Weighted pull-ups: 6 sets up to +55 x 1
W- 1. Max hangs 1-arm pulley assist BM2k small crimp 1/2crimp: 10 sets up to -6kg x 2s
2. Finger pull-ups (open hand to open crimp) 2-arm big crimp: 6 sets up to +20 x 4
T- 1. Max hangs 3 finger drag Metolius Central rung: 9 sets up to 0 x 5s
2. Weighted pull-ups: 6 sets up to +55 x 1
3. Pulley assist 2-arm bannister pinch hangs: 6 sets mostly -8 x 8s
F- 1. Max hangs 1-arm pulley assist BM2k small crimp 1/2 crimp: 9 sets up to -7 x 4s
2. Finger pull-ups (open hand to open crimp) 2-arm big crimp: 6 sets up to +25 x 1
3. 2-arm hangs BM2k 1/2 crimp small crimps: 6 sets mostly +35 x 6s
S- Rest
S- Stoke AW: Half a dozen one footed problems up to V3 (yyfy - first true probs since the injury). Half a dozen efforts on moonboard; limited by still being unable to plantarflex meaningfully... (and being fucking terrified of falling off!)
6 sets per side single 1-armers; decent quality
3 sets per side tentative campus drop-downs (3 to 1)
3 x 3 ring dips
-
STG - get my act together.
MTG - just a tiny bit of consistency.
LTG - it was Rubicon 8A but now it may as well be grit 7A.
M-nowt. Kids kept me up half the night.
T-works session. Cold and didn't really find my groove. One arm hangs testing. 8s on middle hold of BM2k vs 3s on outside bottom edge of BM1k.
W-late night. Wasted. Kids.
T-more life getting in the way.
F-ditto
S-pattern forming
S-unexpected session / pass at trackside/gorilla. Story of my life. Felt strong as in I could hang around all day on the crux holds of Early Doors but couldn't move up. No power. I know, climb faster, go for it, try harder etc.
Weight - a colossal 67kgs yesterday. Biggest score since June.
This week's podcast - Jamie Foxx. Not obviously training related (but highly recommended nevertheless) it turns out Jamie starts every day with 50 pull ups, 100 press ups and 100 sit ups. That's right, this non-climber does more climbing training than half the members of power club. The habits of successful people, eh?
-
Zippy's. Eventually it had dried enough to try it. Tweaked beta and sent through to swinging on the final jug, only to dab slightly on a pad :'( Couldn't repeat, buggered. Definitely will go next time
That's exactly what happened to me when I did it. Had a breakthrough session where I did it with dab a couple of times but couldn't get the tick. It went first or second go a few days later. First 7B it was pretty mental. I knew it would go next session so I spent a few days just sort of cheerfully looking forward to it. Happy memories.
Good luck with next time!
-
Zippy's. Eventually it had dried enough to try it. Tweaked beta and sent through to swinging on the final jug, only to dab slightly on a pad :'( Couldn't repeat, buggered. Definitely will go next time
That's exactly what happened to me when I did it. Had a breakthrough session where I did it with dab a couple of times but couldn't get the tick. It went first or second go a few days later. First 7B it was pretty mental. I knew it would go next session so I spent a few days just sort of cheerfully looking forward to it. Happy memories.
Good luck with next time!
cheers, not sure I'm cheerfully looking forward to it though...
-
Goals:
Good winter bouldering season,
8A (Hunters Roof? Full Power?)and 8b by next June
In shape for SA next summer.
Body Audit: Fingers ok, R shoulder improved a bit but still not right - climbing seems to help if anything.
Sleep: Bit poor, need some early nights this week.
M: Bloc, for a go at the comp problems from the weekend. Did all but one of the qualifiers that were still up, they felt hard though! Some fun playing on a few of the finals problems too. (~6.5hrs)
T: TCA, short ish on time but went for last go at the yellow that had eluded me - great conditions and went fairly quick. Really pleased to finish this circuit off - generally an indicator im going pretty well. had a few goes getting the moves done on the new 8b ish wood circuit after - will be very hard link for me though, with 7A+/B crux a couple of moves from the end and no rests I can use. (~6hrs)
W: nothing. (~6.5hrs)
T: TCA, new hard circuit up (white). Def a bit softer than the previous (yellow), always a fun first session on these - lots of stuff 6C-7A+ ish. 8 to go. (~6.5hrs)
F: Nothing, picked up truly enormous piece of cow. (~7hrs)
S: Neath Abbey, really beautiful day, great nick. I'm mostly gap filling here now, but managed a couple of 7A's I'd not done before, and got up Der Pateshed 7C? (final variation finish of Der Pater I'd not done yet) which I was pretty happy with as I'd not repeated the crux moves since the LH starting hold broke last winter. (~7hrs)
S: cook, shop, cook, drink, eat. Great massive roast with mates (~6hrs)
Good week. didn't feel great on the Bloc comp problems, but happy to finish the hard circuit at TCA before they were reset, big session on the new hard whites, and ace day out in the winter sun.
?kg not weighed in this week - prob heavy given how much I ate on Sunday...
-
Jamie starts every day with 50 pull ups, 100 press ups and 100 sit ups. That's right, this non-climber does more climbing basic strength training than half the members of power club.
-
Jamie starts every day with 50 pull ups, 100 press ups and 100 sit ups. That's right, this non-climber does more climbing basic strength training than half the members of power club.
Yup. Not totally irrelevant but very little correlation between being able to smash out hundreds of these exercises and being able to climb hard.
-
M: Rest
T: Plas Power - 2 x 10 min LI-Aerocap
Board - Trying random problems for 1.5hr.
10 min LI-Aerocap
W: Rest
T: Boardroom - Random easy problems for 10 minutes.
Tried some harder ones for 20mins.
First time on an official Moonboard - Easy problems = nails.
Managed 2 x 6B+ and one 6C. Tried some other stuff too, awesome set up and holds.
10 mins LI-Aerocap
F - S: Rest/DIY/House stuff.
-
I've been told I'm tall...
...and lanky Tom, and lanky. Don't forget that bit.
-
Throws and gaston practice. PM AnCap session
Lunch Systems board Gastons and throws practice. PM Tired but managed an AnCap session.
Didnt quite manage all the target training sessions
Why don't you create an AnCap circuit containing throws and gastons, that'd save you two sessions and you'd get used to fighting through them while powering out.
Is AnCap strength endurance? The Anderson brothers mention in their TrainingBeta podcast that incorporating dynamic moves into their PE/Strength Endurance/no idea of the terminology workouts the mental gains of being able to make these moves when pumped is as valuable as the physical benefits*.
*or that's what they seemed to be saying to me......
-
Yeah think they were saying you can't climb (or at least redpoint) at you limit without being dynamic so training should incorporate some dynamic element. Seemed fairly obvious really, you always end up dynamic in the final throws of the final sets.
Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk
-
basic strength training.....
very little correlation....
The Foxx comment was tongue in cheek (and directed primarily at myself) and I agree the contention that it isn't climbing training and such.
But, I for one could do a lot worse than to follow this simple example. This quest for the perfect training plan (paralysis of analysis) would be better terminated and replaced with 50 pull ups a day. Five sets of ten through the day would produce a helluvan adaptive response! Hmmm.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
How about a month of 5x10 or more followed by a pyramid of reduced volume and added weight?
Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk
-
How about a month of 5x10 or more followed by a pyramid of reduced volume and added weight?
Sent from my XT1068 using Tapatalk
Sounds like a good challenge! I'm in.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
This week's podcast - Jamie Foxx. Not obviously training related (but highly recommended nevertheless) it turns out Jamie starts every day with 50 pull ups, 100 press ups and 100 sit ups. That's right, this non-climber does more climbing training than half the members of power club. The habits of successful people, eh?
I thought this kind of thing was included under the guise of secret training. I can't be the only one who holds various things back from my Power Club entry because I know some of my competition friends read UKB...
-
...
Sleep: Bit poor, need some early nights this week.
...
M: ... (~6.5hrs)
T: ... (~6hrs)
W: ... (~6.5hrs)
T: ... (~6.5hrs)
F: ... (~7hrs)
S: ... (~7hrs)
S: ... (~6hrs)
From over on the blog pile:
http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.co.uk/2016/12/failure-to-sleep-8hrs-failure-to-train.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed:+TrainingForClimbingBlog+(Training+for+Climbing+Blog)
Really need to go to bed earlier.
-
...
Sleep: Bit poor, need some early nights this week.
...
M: ... (~6.5hrs)
T: ... (~6hrs)
W: ... (~6.5hrs)
T: ... (~6.5hrs)
F: ... (~7hrs)
S: ... (~7hrs)
S: ... (~6hrs)
From over on the blog pile:
http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.co.uk/2016/12/failure-to-sleep-8hrs-failure-to-train.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed:+TrainingForClimbingBlog+(Training+for+Climbing+Blog)
Really need to go to bed earlier.
This is interesting, I get about 5 hours sleep a night (bed at 1am - 2am and up at 7am).
I've become completely used to it to the point I don't feel tired in the day but feel like I can't climb my best and on the verge of injury a lot of the time.
It's become a bad habit, I seem to have fallen into the habit by going climbing when the kids are in bed ~7:30pm getting home at 10:15pm, shower/eating/sorting out stuff for the next day takes me to about 11:30pm - 12am, then I finally get to relax for the first time of the day so end up chilling out for an hour or 2... not good. Then on the day's I'm not out it's become so normal to be up so late.
-
My wife's alarm goes off at 6am, so I'd need to actually be sleeping at 10pm. Does anyone with a job really manage 8h per night?
I not only need to move house, I need to give up my job or chuck the missus out.
-
My alarm goes off at 6:25 - I actually get up at about 6:40. Maybe I should forgo the "snooze" and get straight up at 6:40.
On days for a year atm but spent the last ~11 yrs on shift.
I aim for getting average of 7hrs, but much more seems really hard.
-
going climbing when the kids are in bed ~7:30pm getting home at 10:15pm, shower/eating/sorting out stuff for the next day takes me to about 11:30pm - 12am, then I finally get to relax for the first time of the day so end up chilling out for an hour or 2... not good. Then on the day's I'm not out it's become so normal to be up so late.
Is climbing not relaxing? :jab:
-
Throws and gaston practice. PM AnCap session
Lunch Systems board Gastons and throws practice. PM Tired but managed an AnCap session.
Didnt quite manage all the target training sessions
Why don't you create an AnCap circuit containing throws and gastons, that'd save you two sessions and you'd get used to fighting through them while powering out.
Is AnCap strength endurance? The Anderson brothers mention in their TrainingBeta podcast that incorporating dynamic moves into their PE/Strength Endurance/no idea of the terminology workouts the mental gains of being able to make these moves when pumped is as valuable as the physical benefits*.
*or that's what they seemed to be saying to me......
Sorry - I've not listened to or read anything by the Anderson brothers. Im sure it would only confuse me more than I am already.
Been thinking about this and I think Im going to keep the sessions separate for the time being from the AnCap routine even though both are on the systems board. The throws and gastons practice only takes 20 mins or so after warming up but is powerful (particularly the throws)
I think it will be better to incorporate the throws and gastons into AeroPower circuits once I've built a bit more of a strength base on those moves. Ill be starting AeroPower sessions in the next 4 weekly cycle. AeroPower has been identified as my biggest (of many) weakness and is a key cause for getting shut down around on the Oak approaching the 2 minute mark
-
try finishing all of the climbing in less than 2 mins
:2thumbsup:
-
try finishing all of the climbing in less than 2 mins
:2thumbsup:
:ras:
-
Been thinking about this and I think Im going to keep the sessions separate for the time being from the AnCap routine even though both are on the systems board.
I think it will be better to incorporate the throws and gastons into AeroPower circuits once I've built a bit more of a strength base on those moves. Ill be starting AeroPower sessions in the next 4 weekly cycle. AeroPower has been identified as my biggest (of many) weakness and is a key cause for getting shut down around on the Oak approaching the 2 minute mark
Knew you'd say that..
But maybe your weakness in AnCap is why you can't keep pulling through the moves despite being pumped.
:devangel:
Likely a bit of both
Not what I'd do and I reckon at least one of your weekly AnCap sessions should involve proper climbing (for injury prevention if nothing else, to avoid doing 12 sets of the same set of intensive moves twice a week is asking for trouble?) but realise you're just trying to fit everything in around life.
-
going climbing when the kids are in bed ~7:30pm getting home at 10:15pm, shower/eating/sorting out stuff for the next day takes me to about 11:30pm - 12am, then I finally get to relax for the first time of the day so end up chilling out for an hour or 2... not good. Then on the day's I'm not out it's become so normal to be up so late.
Is climbing not relaxing? :jab:
Ha, It is mentally relaxing but not physically... Maybe "first time I get to sit down and do nothing" would of been a better way of putting it.
-
Ha, It is mentally relaxing but not physically... Maybe "first time I get to sit down and do nothing" would of been a better way of putting it.
Instead of sitting down doing nothing you could lie down doing nothing.....with your eyes closed......in bed.....in your jimmy jams?
-
Ha, It is mentally relaxing but not physically... Maybe "first time I get to sit down and do nothing" would of been a better way of putting it.
Instead of sitting down doing nothing you could lie down doing nothing.....with your eyes closed......in bed.....in your jimmy jams?
I quite like sitting down doing nothing... but yes going to bed would be a better idea, just need to break the staying up late habit.
-
DMAC says to go to bed too
http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.nl/2016/12/failure-to-sleep-8hrs-failure-to-train.html
-
DMAC says to go to bed too
http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.nl/2016/12/failure-to-sleep-8hrs-failure-to-train.html
yes.
like I said.
http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.co.uk/2016/12/failure-to-sleep-8hrs-failure-to-train.html?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed:+TrainingForClimbingBlog+(Training+for+Climbing+Blog)
Really need to go to bed earlier.
-
DMAC says to go to bed too
http://onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.nl/2016/12/failure-to-sleep-8hrs-failure-to-train.html
:rtfm:
-
Since the arrival of TT jnr I've got by on c.6 hours a night...
Frustratingly, when I'm away from home (with work) I am now in the habit of only sleeping for 6 hours so not able to take advantage....
-
Yeah that's the thing - I can "function" on 6ish, "get by" on 6.5, 7 feels "normal".
But I find it very difficult to get more even ignoring time constraints, as I wake up anyway after about 7 hrs, really I only get more if I spend >9hrs in bed and give myself time to doze.
And apparently I need to be getting even more to train effectively...
-
Yeah that's the thing - I can "function" on 6ish, "get by" on 6.5, 7 feels "normal".
But I find it very difficult to get more even ignoring time constraints, as I wake up anyway after about 7 hrs, really I only get more if I spend >9hrs in bed and give myself time to doze.
And apparently I need to be getting even more to train effectively...
-
Power nap?
https://ylmsportscience.com/2016/12/06/sleep-habits-during-intensified-training-periods/
-
I thought this kind of thing was included under the guise of secret training....
Fair play if you are sneaking in a few hundred secret pull ups a week!
Add a few secret sleeps and skip a few meals (in secret) and all your pebble pulling dreams will come true...
-
M: dumbbell complex: clean, push press, squat
T-W: work. nothing
T: pull ups. Monday training reawakened a recurring pain in my right wrist. The pull ups aggravated it so..
F-S: Nothing
Another week of very few training and declining shape. On the bright side I received the new wood holds for my board
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/3115531/ukb/prese-san.jpg)
Thanks Nibs!
-
Mon. Looking after grandson took him to Rawcliffe Bar Boulder in York. He preferred to watch the trains go past. Evening bike 23.18 miles 1 hr 25 mins.
Tue. Nothing.
Wed. Nothing.
Thurs. Board managed to a do a problem from last week after a bit more working, then did its mirror version. Did some system type problems. Evening bike 23.13 miles 1 hr 28 mins. Appear to be starting with a sore throat.
Fri. Bike out with the old guys 73.65 miles 4 hrs 55 mins with a lunch stop. Now have a cold.
Sat. Cold in full swing. Santa special NYM railway with grandson
Sun. Cold.