UKBouldering.com
places to visit => uk and eire => Topic started by: r-man on May 15, 2006, 06:02:48 pm
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Finally got round to sorting out the Brownstones guide with photos and illustrations. It's less comprehensive, but hopefully more useable. There are still around 30 V6 and above. Oh, and I used font grades too. Added lots of Nexus dynos and various other new things. Also, I've numbered holds on the Nexus Wall and the Unjust Wall, as I know people have done some good eliminates. Let me know what they are and I'll add them.
Guide here: http://members.lycos.co.uk/southlancsbouldering/brownstonestopo.pdf
Here are the Nexus and Unjust walls:
(http://members.lycos.co.uk/slb2/photos/nexus-web.jpg)(http://members.lycos.co.uk/slb2/photos/unjust-web.jpg)
(Photos here, in case people want to add holds that I've missed)
Nexus Wall: http://members.lycos.co.uk/slb2/photos/nexus-web.jpg
Unjust Wall: http://members.lycos.co.uk/slb2/photos/unjust-web.jpg
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Good effort lad, it must have only taken you about, oooh, a year or so? ;)
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Was thinking of going to Brownstones this evening as it is fairly local to me and I have never actually been. Whats the rock like is it really dirty like most of the Lancs quarries?
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If you live nearby you are a fool not to have been before
Its as good as it gets for bouldering in Bolton
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I'll try and be objective here. ;)
Brownstones is certainly not dirty. The rock is often polished, but very clean. It also dries quickly after rain. If you really must top out, you might be in for a harrowing experience - usually best to downclimb rather than tackle the wall of heather. Take midge spray - if there's no wind, they can be awful.
The problems are good, often technical (read fingery) and knacky. In the lower grades there are loads of good highball slabs and cracks, and in the harder grades, mostly thin wall climbing, a couple of aretes and some good dynos.
Here's a movie (right click and save target. If in IE you may to change .htm to .mov if it isn't already recognised as a quicktime movie)
http://www.snapdrive.net/files/53447/Lancs/Brownstones.mov
(http://members.lycos.co.uk/southlancsbouldering/thumbs/brownstonesthumb.jpg)
Some ukc photos here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/item.html?crag=1131&rockfax=178&nstart=0&sort=v
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And a few other small movies:
The Bad - V6 - http://www.snapdrive.net/files/53447/Lancs/TheBad.wmv
Lancashire Pothot - V5 - http://www.snapdrive.net/files/53447/Lancs/lankashirepothot.wmv
Right Hand Hank - V8 - http://members.lycos.co.uk/southlancsbouldering/rhh.mp4
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Was back in Bolton last week and went down to Brownstones. Damn, its hard work if you haven't been for a while. But anyway, I bumped into someone who told me about several of the old skool classics, and about a guy named Johnny Peate (I think) who had done a sitstart to Directissima at V10 and a V11 eliminate in the Niche, down by the pool. I'd love to find out what that is - does anyone know this guy? There are lots of photos of him on yorkshiregrit I think. Apparently he has since given up climbing and taken up fishing. I wonder if the two pastimes have owt in common, or if one was a reaction to the other...?
Anyway, some other stuff. I'll add this to the topo when I get time, but for now:
Unjust dyno - G - A. This is excellent. Hang the big sloper and leap for the top. Tried this myself a few times and thought it was the hardest dyno at Brownstones - though more about technique than pulling hard, so I suppose it could feel easy. It's the one I fail on in the little video I posted above.
Pigswill eliminate - Undercuts - rh pinch - lh middle crimp (of the three) - rh pocket - lh break. V8 from standing, V9 from undercuts.
Parr's Crack, No Crack - Climb Parr's without the crack. V5/6
Jim Squat - Nexus eliminate - (lh 15, rh 18) - rh 4 - lh 13. V6?
And another Pigswill eliminate, courtesy of Scott Sadler:
Hogwarts - V7
>start on shelf in niche, up direct with right to pinch/crimp.
> left to undercut as for start to pigswill
> bump left foot into niche
> reach for side pull on pigswill
> fancy footwork fancy footwork, finish pigswill
(http://www.snapdrive.net/files/53447/Lancs/hogwarts.bmp)
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sorry robin
hogwarts is mine not scotts...scott's too shit to climb good ;D
ste li
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Woops, sorry. Must have got emails mixed up. :-[
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Some more eliminates, this time on the Obscenity wall. These were sent to me by Geoff Mann a while back, but I never got round to checking them out. They are called Mann's Bits 1,2 and 3. Geoff doesn't do V grades, so if anyone does these, please let me know what you think...
(http://www.snapdrive.net/files/53447/ob.jpg)
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The red one is "No Pocket Hole Wall" and is about 5a/b, if I remember rightly.
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Did a couple of new things at Brownstones over Christmas, both are well worth a go.
Lifeline sitstart - V7 7a+ - Sitstart straight up from fat underclings to the pockets. Gain the sidepull (crux) which leads you into the technicalities of the standup. Yet another reason to venture on to the long back wall. This one is right next to Big Muff as well (look for the painted number 17), so two good problems of a similiar grade in this little area, and they tend to stay dry when other things can be damp.
Ridiculous dyno - V6 7a - Previously marked as a project in the topo, dyno from 1 to 4. A big move, but a big finishing jug. Good fun.
Despite December's heavy fog, Brownstones was pretty much all dry, and the friction was great. Had 5 days in a row of good conditions over the Christmas period. Just thought I'd mention that, as it could prove useful knowledge.
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Look like problems R-Man. I'll measure the Ridiculous Dyno next time it stops raining (mid-May?).
PS What's all this about the niche being in for feet on Pigswill-No-Tricks? Cheating surely?!?!?!? :o
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Pigswill eliminate - Undercuts - rh pinch - lh middle crimp (of the three) - rh pocket - lh break. V8 from standing, V9 from undercuts.
Jim Squat - Nexus eliminate - (lh 15, rh 18) - rh 4 - lh 13. V6?
The Eliminate is a tall person's problemo- loooong move off the undercuts to the pinch then a painful pull to stand up. Foot faggotry essential. I'm not sure what you mean by V8 from standing?
Is that all Jim Squat does? I thought it had a move or two after hold 13??
Ridiculous Dyno is harder than V6!! A short person's problem if there ever was one!!
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Pigswill eliminate - Undercuts - rh pinch - lh middle crimp (of the three) - rh pocket - lh break. V8 from standing, V9 from undercuts.
The Eliminate is a tall person's problemo- loooong move off the undercuts to the pinch then a painful pull to stand up. Foot faggotry essential. I'm not sure what you mean by V8 from standing?
This is one of Caleb's - when I talked to him he had done the standup, but not the sitter I think. Ask him to clarify. I might be wrong about which undercuts you use - Caleb isn't exactly a tall person.
Jim Squat - Nexus eliminate - (lh 15, rh 18) - rh 4 - lh 13. V6?
Is that all Jim Squat does? I thought it had a move or two after hold 13??
Think that's it. Again, ask Caleb, this comes from one of his mates.
Ridiculous Dyno is harder than V6!! A short person's problem if there ever was one!!
Perhaps it's not a tall person's problem, but that doesn't mean it's a short person's problem... ;)
As for grade, dunno. It felt V6ish to me, but perhaps it's a grade harder.
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Caleb isn't exactly a tall person.
Very diplomatic :lol:
Think that's it. Again, ask Caleb, this comes from one of his mates.
I was talking to him about it and he showed me different holds again!! [16-18] RH-4 LH-1 RH-A Only very specific feet too with some crazy froglegging to start.
I'll have a look when it rains next. Seems sensible to go to B to finish though.
He also told me about the sitstart to The Good, but I forgot which holds it uses. Sorry.
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I wish he'd make his mind up. Anyway, the problem I thought was Jim Squat is around V6ish, whatever footholds you use. Not sure I can be bothered with specific footholds.
I presume you mean LH-13, rather than 1. I didn't think there was any point going to A as it it's an easy move. Maybe going to B would be good.
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I presume you mean LH-13, rather than 1. I didn't think there was any point going to A as it it's an easy move. Maybe going to B would be good.
Sorry, I meant LH-12. Fingers broken after Dezertion :furious:
I tried his problem once but I am physically unable to put my limbs on the specified holds, so I gave up on it. Will have another go without specific feet. Long move to B from 13 but not that hard.
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When are you updating the guide by the way? 8)
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I'm puzzled about this Pigswill eliminate thing - which is the middle crimp being referred to? What we need is a photo with the holds indicated, a la Hogwarts.
I'm also working on a Pigswill eliminate but the details are top secret at present until despatched. Suffice to say that involves pulling on very small crimps and standing on not very much.
By the way Robin, the ridiculous eliminate is a superb problem. One of the best @ Brownstones imho :great:.
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I look forward to your eliminate Mr K. The middle crimp is the pretty positive one from what I understand, the one above the small one used on PP [PP hold is marked 2 on the pic]. The Eliminate R-Master is describing is a big reach from the bottom undercut (not using the diagonal one out left
(http://www.snapdrive.net/files/53447/Lancs/hogwarts.bmp)
ie use the holds in the black box, not the circled stuff left. Straight up to the pinch as usual. Big crank through to the crimp. I haven't done it as it rips yer tips (and I'm crap).
Ridiculous Eliminate is excellent. I still think it's more V8 than V7 but that's just me. :shrug:
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I'll update the guide sometime soon. There are still lots of loose ends to tie up - the confusion around Caleb's pigswill eliminate being one example.
Pigswill needs its own page I think, with numbered holds. Amazing that there are so many eliminates on this bit of rock.
Mr K, glad you liked Ridiculous Eliminate. Care to add your grade opinion to the melting pot?
When I was on it last I wondered if it would be possible to finish on the small ledge straight up, rather than going out left. Would require some footwork and probably a wild lunge. I didn't try the move, but it looked vaguely possible...
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Pigswill is great isn't it. When I first did Pigswill, er, back in the day I thought it was one of Brownstone's trickier problems and was well chuffed to do it. Now there are eliminates all over the shop - funny how things move on.
What I can work on now is a link from the bottom bit of Caleb's eliminate into the sequence that I have been working - that should be good. I had just been using the standard sitter but really this doesn't add anything to the grade.
As regards a grade for RE, I'm going to plump for ....oh, I don't know, I hate grading and prefer to leave it to others but I'm erring on V8 because it will do my ego good.
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As regards a grade for RE, I'm going to plump for V8 because it will do my ego good.
Bang on target A.K.-47!! It feels hard until you get the feel of that left hand hold. Excellent moves though.
When I see Caleb next I'll get him to explain the Piggy Eliminate.
Mr K- when are you working this Elimiate of yours? Not seen any chalk on it??
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Well, I tend to get up there when other people don't - either I'm a sociophobe, looking to create a bit of a mystique, don't get up there as often as I would like or it rains between times. Personally I think it's probably the latter; the chalk wouldn't necessarily be noticeable and any tick marks are incredibly discreet.
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"The Scarlet Pigswill-el". You've got a good degree of mystique it seems. Pigswill seems to keep poor condition longer than Hank's after a wet spell. Don't know why.
Nobody going for "2 Hold Hank"?
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I noticed tonight that the crescent shaped side pull was chalked :whistle:
R-Man: Caleb denies knowledge of the 7c of which you ask.
Well done to Gaz P on the SubMarine repeat :thumbsup:. Bit naughty though, considering the access issues (which still haven't been resolved :()
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Re Longridge, I get the impression climbers are tolerated, if not officially condoned:
As reported elsewhere, the BMC's draft contract amendments were agreed by the landowners just before Christmas '06. We are therefore now waiting for the sale contracts from the landowner.
I spoke with the landowner last week regarding this delay and he agreed to look into it.
Low numbers of climbers do visit the site.
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R-Man: Caleb denies knowledge of the 7c of which you ask.
Scratch that 7c eliminate then - but I definitely talked to him about it. Vitamin K, perhaps you could try linking Hogwarts into your project?
I too have a project on the Pigswill wall. And on Hanks wall. And and and...
Blasphemy perhaps, but moving away from this wall, has anyone tried
-the tight line of brushed holds left of the corner, left of the key
-the traverse rightwards from the key into groundhog (slightly possible there are not enough holds)
-any of the three projects on the long back wall
-colt, since losing a hold
-alana direct finish
Also, neither of these have been repeated, as far as I know
-Crackhorse
-Lifeline sitter
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Vitamin K, perhaps you could try linking Hogwarts into your project?
Blasphemy perhaps, but moving away from this wall, has anyone tried
-the tight line of brushed holds left of the corner, left of the key
-the traverse rightwards from the key into groundhog (slightly possible there are not enough holds)
-any of the three projects on the long back wall
-colt, since losing a hold
-alana direct finish
Also, neither of these have been repeated, as far as I know
-Crackhorse
-Lifeline sitter
Hogwarts isn't that easy but maybe I'm doing it wrong.
Jim told me today that the line left of the key was done by Geoff Hibbert ages ago at 6a.
Ryan P is alleged to have done Alanatotally independently with the DF. I don't know if it's true.
I'll get around to Lifeline sometime :-\
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Jim told me today that the line left of the key was done by Geoff Hibbert ages ago at 6a.
There are 6a lines on that wall but unless I was missing something when I failed to get off the ground, that aint one of them. Immediately left of the corner crack.
Ryan P is alleged to have done Alanatotally independently with the DF. I don't know if it's true.
Are you referring to the note I made in the topo? This is something I think I heard a long time ago. Andi_E asked Ryan but I don't think he could remember anything. On a related note, somebody pointed out to me recently that Ryan has listed Hank's Wall as his favourite problem. http://britishbouldering.com/profiles/ryan.htm - shame some numpty has relocated it to bridestones.
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Jim told me today that the line left of the key was done by Geoff Hibbert ages ago at 6a.
There are 6a lines on that wall but unless I was missing something when I failed to get off the ground, that aint one of them. Immediately left of the corner crack.
That's an uber-eliminate eliminate. There's an easier version which pulls on further right but finishes left, which I did.
Ryan P is alleged to have done Alanatotally independently with the DF. I don't know if it's true.
Are you referring to the note I made in the topo? This is something I think I heard a long time ago. Andi_E asked Ryan but I don't think he could remember anything.
This is the man who couldn't remember if he'd done Brad Pit...
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Yeah, I saw the Hank's Wall, Bridestones thing. Made me smile.
Almost got the crimp by the crack on RHH last night. Bit more skin and I may have a proper go at the 4th(?) ascent.
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This thread is amazing!!! How on earth can you guys have identified so many holds in such a small space of rock. The place seems to have knocked minus ten off the top of the eliminate pile.
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Not quite, but it's good to have an ambition. The Pigswill obsession always baffles me - right next to it is a slightly overhanging wall with many holds and an obvious finishing jug, yet people seem to be drawn to pigswill for eliminates. Strange but true.
Mind you, I do get a bit miffed that people think they've ticked brownstones when they've done hank's and pigswill (not aimed at you clm!). There's a lot more rock than first appearances suggest, and at least 10 V6 and above non-eliminates. More if you include sitstarts to these. And projects. How many have done even half of these:
Dezertion
Tulip (trav)
Hanks Wall
Pigswill
Crackhorse (highball)
Groundhog start
Grand Theft (highball)
Big Muff
Lifeline sitter
Thunder (highball)
Colt
Directissima sitter (daft but hard)
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This thread is amazing!!! How on earth can you guys have identified so many holds in such a small space of rock. The place seems to have knocked minus ten off the top of the eliminate pile.
Right!! You asked for it, so here it is:
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/170/422331761_aa0883f9b5_b.jpg)
PP (V7): Sit start 11. LH-8 RH-9 RF-F LF-D LH-8 RH-4 RF-E LH-2 Finish up parabola
Pigswill No Tricks (V6): Sit start 11 LH-8 RF-F RH-9 LF-10 RH-4 LH-2 Finish as usual
GCW's proper Pigswill No Tricks (V8?): Sit Start 11 LH-8 RH-9 LF-F Flag right foot, then LH-2 Finish as usual (may have been done years ago, but nice couple of moves)
Hogwart's (V7): Sit start 10. RH-A LH-8 LF-10 RH-9 Finish up Pigswill
Pigswill V9 Eliminate: Sit Start 11 RH-9 LH-3 RH-7 One of Peaky's apparently
Feel free to add more.
I noticed hold C was well chalked (cough, cough, vitamin, cough, K).
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Oh, R-man:
Caleb's "Eliminate": SDS 11 LH-8 RH-9 RF-F Toe lock LH-3 RH-2 LH-5 Finish as usual.
Oddly enough, I often do that as my usual method (but missing out 3 cos I'm lanky) :shrug: V6 if you aren't vertically challenged.
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:o
Oh my giddy aunt. Or, to misquote my school biology teacher -
"Is that a squadron of pigs I see flying past the window?"
GCW, you win the dedication to Pigswill award! Nice work.
Peaky's eliminate is surely the one Caleb told me about.
Though you do realise, you have missed some holds. ;) For instance...
Pete Hurley using a right hand undercut? Whatever this sequence is, it looks nails.
(http://members.lycos.co.uk/southlancsbouldering/petepigsweb.jpg)
And someone else using the not very helpful mono. Who is that guy?
(http://www.bouldr.net/line/367.jpg)
Think there is also a good undercling just up and left of 11. You can see the chalk.
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But why oh why did you have to use yellow?! Oh my eyes!
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where is that mono?
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Just below 6 I think.
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Oh aye, I can see it now, old bolt hole?
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Sorry. It was originally done using the red holds, so I just added more in yellow. Can't count past 12.
The Hurley undercut is between 9 and C, it's quite good. There's a lot of other holds that aren't marked but as they weren't used in any problems I know of, I ignored them.
(http://www.bouldr.net/line/367.jpg)
That dude using the mono has some interesting hair. Looks weak too. Not Andi_e is it? :lol:
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Impressive dedication Mr G - the photo made me smile one of those knowing smiles because the key hold in my project (say this with a French accent, I think it adds something) is not marked.
Yes, even more potential that the picture suggests - Brownstones is indeed getting to the point where it can rival and overtake Stoney for eliminates.
Robin -thankfully I can say I've ticked most of the problems on your list but as you say, you can't write the place off can you? Of course the big thread running at the moment for me is the Longridge one. I've been a good boy for too long and it's time to go back and pull down...oh yes!
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The key hold in my project (say this with a French accent, I think it adds something) is not marked.
I am intrigued. :-\ There's loads of potential on this small piece of rock.
I've avoided CYL like you AK, but nothing seems to be happening about access. But I don't want to go there and annoy the owners and damage any access negotiations.
Vitamin- Right Hand Hank's- There's a small hold next to Layback 8" lower than the crimp you rock for. Is it in or out? It's not strictly in the crack so I wasn't sure. It makes the move a tad easier (British 6c :lol:) but not much. Or is this an Uber-eliminate where the only sequence allowed is the R-Man video one??
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The key hold in my project (say this with a French accent, I think it adds something) is not marked.
I am intrigued. :-\ There's loads of potential on this small piece of rock.
I've avoided CYL like you AK, but nothing seems to be happening about access. But I don't want to go there and annoy the owners and damage any access negotiations.
Vitamin- Right Hand Hank's- There's a small hold next to Layback 8" lower than the crimp you rock for. Is it in or out? It's not strictly in the crack so I wasn't sure. It makes the move a tad easier (British 6c :lol:) but not much. Or is this an Uber-eliminate where the only sequence allowed is the R-Man video one??
R-Master's sequence is pretty spot on, apart from some foot jiggery pokery that he did a little differently to me. The lower rockover move is the crux but the top move can easily spit you off. You should be OK as you have a significant advantage in the lank department.
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You should be OK as you have a significant advantage in the lank department.
You watched the vid?
Reach is easier but I find rocking onto the right foothold hard as my lanky legs are very bunched. I'll have another look when it's dry. The move from the crimps to the usual Hank's hold (small, but good crimp) looks nails. Especially with a dodgy left shoulder :(
The Peaky Piggy Eliminate is hard. The bottom move is full stretch for me, and I still have to go for it dynamically. The next move to the crimp is just hideous as you only have the pinch
Still got a few things to do there. What a great venue :great: :'(
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Updated version:
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/164/423513012_b41c0211f5_b.jpg)
PP (V7): Sit start 11. LH-8 RH-9 RF-F LF-D LH-8 RH-4 RF-E LH-2 Finish up parabola
Pigswill No Tricks (V6): Sit start 11 LH-8 RF-F RH-9 LF-10 RH-4 LH-2 Finish as usual
GCW's proper Pigswill No Tricks (V8?): Sit Start 11 LH-8 RH-9 LF-F Flag right foot, then LH-2 Finish as usual (may have been done years ago, but nice couple of moves)
Hogwart's (V7): Sit start 10. RH-A LH-8 LF-10 RH-9 Finish up Pigswill
Pigswill V9 Eliminate: Sit Start 11 RH-9 LH-3 RH-7 One of Peaky's apparently
Caleb's Eliminate: SDS 11 LH-8 RH-9 RF-F Toe lock LH-3 RH-2 LH-5 Finish as usual.
Andy Kay's Eliminate: Not telling until he's done it
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Right Hand Hank still feels nails on that first move. Been watching your vid R-man:
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/168/423937037_aadcd6d03b_o.jpg)
I noticed you didn't finish straight up and therefore haven't actually done the problem. So just Andy Kay and Caleb so far then..... :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Whatever Trevor.
Talk to the hand cos the face aint listnin.
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That was quick!!
That looks like a fair snatch to the right hand crimp on the rock-over. I haven't quite got the height on it yet, but getting there.
Still not as hard as the Trad Mantel though. I'm embarrassed to say I still haven't done that!!!! :-[
Or Dexertion
Or Groundhog
.....
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At Brownstones last night. Saw Caleb again, he was telling me about some "yound lad" trying a fingery Pigswill Eliminate. I finally clicked it was Vit K when he showed me the beta. Caleb can't get near it though.
I did a couple of nice dynos on Nexus, including a one hander- inspired by Greg C. Details/ vids etc to follow R-Man.
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Young lad - :lol: I made some progress on that day but it's not in the bag yet.
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please stop now boys.
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Caleb tells me he linked Hogwart's start into Pigswill but:
1. Used big undercut 11 and
2. Fell off at the top :shrug:
I'm struggling on Hogwart's, not that I've tried it much.
Maybe I'll have a proper look.
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i said stop :wall:
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:oops: I take it you don't want to see the Nexus wall ripple by ripple Ultra-Topo?
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I've stuck another tedious vid on u-toob http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cqdb1Mb5zgo
Anyone interested in arranging this Brownstones meet? Was there today and the LBW appears mostly dry.
I seem to remember Chappers expressed a mild interest a while back and I know R-Man and Andi_e would be there. And of course Andy F to formally make peace.
Lots of pads/ spotters and there's loads to do!
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Anyone interested in arranging this Brownstones meet? Was there today and the LBW appears mostly dry.
I seem to remember Chappers expressed a mild interest a while back and I know R-Man and Andi_e would be there. And of course Andy F to formally make peace.
Lots of pads/ spotters and there's loads to do!
Weather permitting, how about Sunday? I am back in the area for a friend's wedding on Saturday, so I suppose this is also hangover permitting - but how about it?
Or is this too short notice?
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I've stuck another tedious vid on u-toob http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cqdb1Mb5zgo
I will never get that 9:49 back
I hate you
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I've stuck another tedious vid on u-toob http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cqdb1Mb5zgo
I will never get that 9:49 back
I hate you
So you didn't watch both videos Dylan? Ha ha, click on a link like that and what did you expect? I did say "tedious".
R-man: That may be OK, but my skin is in poor shape at the moment. I'll let you know. Still got another secret dyno to do anyway.
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Well, probably a bit too short notice to get enough people down for a proper LBW day, but I'm sure I'll be there on Sunday anyway.
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Have a go at my two dynos- see what you think. They are both good. Let me know about grades as I may be wrong with V3 and V5 :shrug:
Going back later today for a play on my project :whistle:
A LBW meet would be good soon, before the weeds grow back more- bigger fallout zone. Crackhorse needs done. And maybe The Young Pretender (whole route)- should be OK as a highball after a scrub?
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Yay- back in lancashire now. Sunday sounds like a plan, how long are you back for R-man?
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News of chipping at the Pool end. >:(
I'll have a look at it when I go later.
And please change your avatar Andi_e, it's 'orrible.
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Updated version:
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/164/423513012_b41c0211f5_b.jpg)
a new pigswill elim i've got out of my system once again turns out to be a lot easier that i had thought
direkt with a k, v6 = start 10, A, 8, 2&3, 6, finish
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Nice one. I've thought about that before but never tried it. Dagnabbit!!!
Still, I've got loads of other stuff to do anyway.
Anyone else done GCW Piggy No tricks? Andi_e couldn't :lol:
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Just to keep everything in line, I've modded all these to stay in touch with the Wiki topo:
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/246/459707048_befd656c4e_b.jpg)
1. Undercuts
2. Good foothold
3. Higher foot nick
4. Ledge (not including sidepull)
5. Sidewall of niche
6. Undercut with dink
7. Sidepull
8. Crimp/ pinch
9. Undercut
10. Dink
11. Poor undercut
12. OK undercuit
13. Sidepull
14. Pinch
15. Pinch
16. Good hold next to Parabola
17. Good crimp
18. Poorer crimp
19. Crappy crimp
20. Good blob/ sloper
21. Poor crimp
22. Better crimp
23. Good crimp
24. Big sloper
25. Pocket
26. Slot
27. Jug
Pigswill No Tricks V7 6c
Sit start on 1. LH-6, RH-14. RF-2, LF-4. RH- 20. Usual finish. No foot/toe hooks/locks/ faggotry
PP (Pigswill into Parabola) V7 6c
Sit start on 1. LH-6, RH-14. RF-2, LF-5. LH-13. RH- 21. Bump RF up to 3. LH-17, RH-18, finish as per usual.
GCW's Proper Pigswill No Tricks V8 6c
Sit start on 1. LH-6, RH-14. Now, LF-2 and flag right foot. LH-23, RH-25. LH-27
Totally changes the problem- but viscious on that right hand tips. May be harder if you are shorter than I am.
Peaky's Problem V9ish 6c
Sit start on 1. RH-14. LH-21. RH-27.
Looks horrible. Certainly VERY reachy.
Direkt with a K V6 6c
Sit start on 4. Use 8 to gain 17 and 18, then 26. Top out direct.
Hogwart's V7 6c
Sit start on 4. RH-8, LH-7. Do something clever with your feet to get RH-14. Add a finish of your choice.
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another error i've just noticed
hogwarts goes lefthand into 6 not 7 as in you description
ste
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Sorry, that's a typo. Changed it now.
Does Direkt use 8 only as a crimp or do you use it as an undercut with a thumb on the crimpy bit? Wasn't clear. Thanks for the feedback. I'll check the wiki too.
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i used it as a pinch with thumb on the underside and practically layback it to gain 13
be a good effort if you can get your right hand thumb onto the crimp and move off that!!
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Tried it as you say but also by undercutting the overlap with the right with a thumb on the hold. Gut buster. I'll have another look. I struggle with Hogwart's anyway. Orrid.
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It's been a while coming, but one of the projects on the Long Back Wall at Brownstones has finally been climbed. Twas Paul Robins who did the deed...
Its up the wall right of thunder, start on small crimp layaway for right hand,
bounce up to sloper with left then hop to big jug right. big rock
over on previous sloper up for left hand layaway and then sketch to
the top. Ninja Finger, V7 ish i reckon. Obviously the sitter awaits!
Sounds good!
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Thanks R-Man.
Well done Paul :great:
<This information has been absorbed into the superb BROWNSTONES WIKI (http://brownstones.wetpaint.com)>
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Courtesy of Paul Robins, a video of his new highball, Ninja Fingers:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tR-VrdFGTeY
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Thanks R-Man.
Well done Paul :great:
<This information has been absorbed into the superb BROWNSTONES WIKI (http://brownstones.wetpaint.com)>
This new info will as well.
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"Hmmm, see what BMC man Les Ainsworth thinks. He was annoyed by the brownstones wiki http://brownstones.wetpaint.com/ He thought the photo of the rabbit was pro-fly tipping, hence the amended footnote."
Just seen this post on Rockfax - what's all this about and what's it got to do with anybody anyway? So what got him annoyed?
Oh no, it's the democratisation of information...run for the hills!
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Basically Les thinks he owns all rights to Lancs climbing info. He tried to get the BMC to sue Rockfax over "theft of information", he had a go at R-Man over his website, and now he's pissed at the Wiki.
If you're ever truly bored count how many times he refers to himself in the history sections of the Brick.
No mention of who removed the ivy at Chapel Head, or who got White Scar banned, or who got Woodwell O'ert Road banned though...
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ive seen him garden...its amazing - a one man earth mover.
A bit like this.
(http://www.gizmodo.com/assets/resources/2006/11/298566494_7c0f2d3fd7_o.jpg)
but with a white beard.
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Sorry, just seen this.
Mr Ainsworth was pissed at a couple of things, although what he said was a tad vague.
Brownstones is owned by Smithills not UU. The last time that I contacted
them they were not too keen on climbing, but we left it with a comment from
them that they would consider it.
Also, I am not sure what message was supposed to be conveyed by the Fly
Tipping and Nature co-exist photo. It seemed to me that this was suggesting
that fly tipping was not seen by climbers to be a problem!!
As for climbers not being responsible for chipping the rock, that seems
highly improbable. Indeed, I was contacted a couple of years ago with a
comment that someone with a mat and a hammer drill with a wire brush and a
screwdriver attachment was responsible for some chipping around Ashpit Slab,
and they wouldn't listen to objections from other climbers.
Cheers aye
Les Ainsworth
I still can't see why my photo of a rabbit gets on his tits, but I've put the footnote there to stop people getting the wrong idea :lol:
I still don't think climbers did the chipping. If Les actually went to look, I'm sure he'd agree.
Regarding access, I'm now waiting for him to go to the owners to botch access like occurred at a certain other crag (ask Greg C if you want to know).
Cheers aye
GCW
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Besides which. I've steered well clear of any first ascents from the Lancs guide as these tend to irritate him. If he wants to contact me directly rather than dragging others into it I'd be happy to discuss things properly.
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Just noticed the Wiki has hit 1000 visitors now. Thanks to everyone who has had a look/ contributed.
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:thumbsup: and long may it continue.
Cheers G.
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Just so you all know, not that many care!
PDF topos are available to download from the WIKI (http://brownstones.wetpaint.com/page/Downloads) and include all eliminates I know of so far, just to keep clm happy :lol:
These downloads are limited to under 1MB, so if quality of images is a problem PM me and I'll e-mail you the better quality versions.
Enjoy.
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I finally went to Brownstones today.
The flake has left a big muddy mess, but I've reclimbed The Nexus Dyno (probably 6c now) and Lancashire PotHot (7a+ I reckon, using the remnants of the flake). I reckon PotHot will go without the flake, via a dynamic move.
I noted various other holds had broken too- the left hold on The Good (Nexus wall), the right hand hold of Groundhog sitter (thanks to Dylan for the headsup), plus others.
Nexus Dyno (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9PGRe5KtioE#)
Lancashire PotHot (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GG0xkDa1mGM#)
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What the hell happened there? That's a big piece of rock to go AWOL.
Not been to the 'stones for ages - should pop up for a look.
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Let me know when you're going, old man.
It's been wobbling for a long time, I think it finally gave up the ghost.
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Ahem ahem, Groundhog sit repeat? :whistle:
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I didn't want to blow your Trumpet for you, Dylan.
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I meant you get your arse in gear, not me ;D
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Ah I see.
I think that's one problem I'll never be able to do.
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whoops, wrong thread.
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The flake has left a big muddy mess, but I've reclimbed Lancashire PotHot (7a+ I reckon, using the remnants of the flake).
Your sequence on LP is a little naughty. Not sure matching on the gaston is allowed:
To quote the wiki:
Sit start on 3. RH-7 (sidepull), LH-7. RH-21. LH-20.
;D
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I will go back and do it properly.
I will go back and do it properly.
I will go back and do it properly.
I will go back and do it properly.
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(53) Groundhog
Height: 5m - Grade: BP 6c First Ascent: -1993 - By: 1993 Geoff Hibbert
Rating: 2 Star -
The arête and overlap on the immediate left.
Id just like to point people in the direction of the original description for groundhog. Not wanting to be a :wank:. But its something that is easily missed. :-\ ;)
... wheres all the spirit of adventure gone?
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Your sequence on LP is a little naughty. Not sure matching on the gaston is allowed:
To quote the wiki:
Sit start on 3. RH-7 (sidepull), LH-7. RH-21. LH-20.
I hope this is better, R-Man. No matching the gaston, no using the remains of the flake. :P
Lancashire PotHot Strict (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JdteULL6oO0#ws)
Probes, you are quite right- which is why I try to ensure the boulder problem is always referred to as Groundhog Start. The top probably needs a bit of a scrub.
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(53) Groundhog
Height: 5m - Grade: BP 6c First Ascent: -1993 - By: 1993 Geoff Hibbert
Rating: 2 Star -
The arête and overlap on the immediate left.
Id just like to point people in the direction of the original description for groundhog. Not wanting to be a :wank:. But its something that is easily missed. :-\ ;)
... wheres all the spirit of adventure gone?
Spirit of adventure? I think climbing through dirt is off the agenda for me
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But anyway, I bumped into someone who told me about several of the old skool classics, and about a guy named Johnny Peate (I think) who had done a sitstart to Directissima at V10 and a V11 eliminate in the Niche, down by the pool. I'd love to find out what that is - does anyone know this guy?
That sounds like my old mate John Peak. He would typically turn up, down some Stella and a couple of AK47 reefers and then burn everyone off. Took up fishing because "nobody bothers fishermen, right. Good cover for hanging around getting caned."
As far as I know, after he'd done everything that was recorded at Brownstones, he just started adding sitstarts to all the harder problems. No idea what, you have to bear in mind that to him, hard meant "English 6c" as we'd never heard of bouldering grades. I'll see if I can find out what he did anyway.
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I know a fisherman who caught a fish this big
(http://www.bigtravelweb.com/images/fishing-l.jpg)
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All of a sudden I can see the appeal of this fishing malarky. Don't think you get many of those around Bolton way though.
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One of the most intellegent fish in the sea apparently. :-\
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Do we need a new thread - DFBWGF? Because it's not looking like a bad option from here.
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No ;) (http://tinyurl.com/8heu3o)
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Thanks to Darren for making me aware- the lowest jug on Obscenity is pretty rattly and seems as though it will come off at some point. Please be aware when you are hauling on it, it'll be a fair sized chunk to follow you Earthwards.
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Just a warning that it's probably not a good idea to visit this Thursday..
Rockover climbing take punter's there for an introduction to outdoor bouldering for the princely sum of £10 (http://www.rockoverclimbing.co.uk/courses/outdoor-courses/) :lol:
They were there last week too according to the link :shrug:
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I'd be tempted to go to see if it's them causing some of the recent damage, or at least where they go. I noticed UKC has a few new photos of people top roping on the Ash Pit Slabs area.
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people top roping on the Ash Pit Slabs area.
:o WTF? top roping at Brownstones... unbelievable!
{goes off to search for said photos}
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They are here (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=149343), and here (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=149337) and here (http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=149331).
Top roping isn't necessarily that bad at Brownstones, young children from the local schools often get roped up stuff. But the place is certainly suffering now- especially the last couple of years- so care needs to be taken. Yes, I know it's not just because of top roping and I know I may be partly to blame for writing guides to the place. I've had to do some hold stabilisation over the years* but a lot more has gone on recently.
*if you can tell me which holds then feel free to criticise, otherwise I ain't listening :P
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people top roping on the Ash Pit Slabs area.
:o WTF? top roping at Brownstones... unbelievable!
{goes off to search for said photos}
To be fair, from the guy's profile: "In January 2006 I had the first of four operations to rebuild my right leg the last of which was in November 2007".
So it's possible that even a short fall might be out of the question for him.
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Been tonight and noticed a decent sized chunk has come out of the Alana/ Haskitt starting sidepull. Seems to have been a fair bit of loosening of previously solid holds over the Winter :(
Pictures with clickable back-links:
(http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/th_8d547f23.jpg) (http://s280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/?action=view¤t=8d547f23.jpg) (http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/th_486471c5.jpg) (http://s280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/?action=view¤t=486471c5.jpg)
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Went up the other night, apart from the rock being jet washed by the recent 'storms' thus prestine and with good friction, the under growth is needing a bit of choppin back. For me really, i was going to hack down the big Elder flower tree along side the backwall, that has grown to quite a height of late and is know blocking a couple of routes. Any objections?
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No, but there was talk of making it a nature reserve so I'm not sure how that effects things.
Anyone know who chopped down the tree round by the Niche? I liked that tree, and it didn't get in the way at all.
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Nature Reserve? Bunnys, Rats, Midges & rubber tyres?
No dunno about the niche one?
Might just hack this one back, tis only a elderberry tree after.
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You ought to watch declaring on a forum you're going to chop anything down in a nature reserve.
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It's not formal yet (AFAIK), they were going to try to designate it as a local nature reserve.
"The Lancashire Wildlife Trust in partnership with Bolton Council has recently started developing management plans for Brownstones Quarry and Ousels Nest Quarry with the hope of designating them as Local Nature Reserves. This means that the sites will be managed for both the improvement of wildlife and users. We are currently conducting community consultation to determine what the sites are used for and what users of the sites value the most. Climbing is obviously one of the main uses at Brownstones and the trust is keen to involve climber’s as much as possible (i.e. guiding management, involvement in friends of groups, engaging more people in involvement with the site, and practical work etc). Anyone interested in having a say can contact Stephen on 01204 663754 or scartwright@lancswt.org.uk. I would greatly appreciate it if you could pass this message around as much as possible! We need all the support we can get to have the site designated, in the short term this would mean developing the management plan and small practical jobs like removing scrub from the quarry face but in the long term projects like access improvements etc could be possible. I have been told that a climbing group meets at Brownstones regularly and I wondered if you know anything about this? Thank you very much.
Stephen Cartwright.
Assistant LNR Project Officer.
Wildlife Trust for Lancashire, Manchester and North Merseyside."
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im sure ive mentioned it before but can someone not keep a couple of goats in there to eat all the rampant vegetation. clean top outs and less nettles. goats eat owt.
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im sure ive mentioned it before but can someone not keep a couple of goats in there to eat all the rampant vegetation. clean top outs and less nettles. goats eat owt.
Yeah but goats are shit hot at climbing, they would just climb the problems all day every day and make the polish worse - bastards :P
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Topo from 2009 is back online. (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NrNU_zzWsPexPxwFef4bcRmPt1rUOlxL/view?usp=drivesdk)
It’s not updated but remains mostly relevant (apart from the loss of the Nexus flake). Sounds like the quarry is having some local interest.
Bunch of crap beta videos. (https://www.youtube.com/user/gcw666)
Previous crap beta videos. (https://www.youtube.com/user/brownstoneswiki)
Wiki. (http://brownstones.wikifoundry-mobile.com/m/) Some of it doesn’t work since it was migrated from Wetpaint and I’m too lazy to fix them.