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the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Percy B on August 03, 2016, 09:02:05 pm

Title: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: Percy B on August 03, 2016, 09:02:05 pm
As of a few minutes ago, climbing is now an Olympic sport. News item on the BMC website

 :popcorn:
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: Kingy on August 03, 2016, 11:36:24 pm
I say this is a great thing.  :clap2: Fair enough the speed climbing element may not please some but its cool to see the sport getting some mainstream recognition. Gotta give the spectators some fast paced action.

Some of the top comp climbers seem to take speed climbing seriously like Sean McColl and Drew Ruana in the juniors. I don't see why it couldn't compliment the other disciplines, after all some fast twitch explosive power is surely beneficial  :-\

Some doommongerers seem to be saying it will shift focus away from outdoor climbing but I don't think it will detract from it in any way, its just a different sport really
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: monkoffunk on August 04, 2016, 12:53:27 am
I won't be interested in the Olympics until we can have something serious like a combined 100m, 10,000m and egg and spoon race. That's a format I could get behind.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: 205Chris on August 04, 2016, 06:39:55 am
Some doommongerers seem to be saying it will shift focus away from outdoor climbing but I don't think it will detract from it in any way, its just a different sport really

Anything to help the parking situation at Kilnsey  ;)
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: tomtom on August 04, 2016, 08:09:40 am
I forecast that opinion on whether or not its a good idea will be broadly aligned with views on the BMC rebranding... :)

Those on UKC will hate the idea, those on UKB will dislike the font :D
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: SA Chris on August 04, 2016, 08:10:56 am
As of a few minutes ago, climbing is now an Olympic sport. News item on the BMC Climb Britain website


Fixed.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: SA Chris on August 04, 2016, 08:14:19 am
I won't be interested in the Olympics until we can have something serious like a combined 100m, 10,000m and egg and spoon race. That's a format I could get behind.

Or how about if they combine 100 metres, hurdles, High jump, Shot put, 200 metres, Long jump, Javelin throw & 800 metres? *

Combined events are nothing new.

*yes I had to google.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: Bonjoy on August 04, 2016, 08:19:05 am


Quote
Combined events are nothing new.
Nothing wrong with combined events.... if you can also get medals for the events individually
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: Duncan campbell on August 04, 2016, 09:26:03 am
This news means very little to me, but I do think the fact that every athlete has to compete in all three disciplines is a bit  :wank:

Is this format set in stone now or could it be tweaked for future olympics?

Don't get why they didn't split the disciplines up with medals for each... I wonder who will be the first gold medalists in climbing.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: bigironhorse on August 04, 2016, 09:32:43 am
This news means very little to me, but I do think the fact that every athlete has to compete in all three disciplines is a bit  :wank:

Is this format set in stone now or could it be tweaked for future olympics?

Don't get why they didn't split the disciplines up with medals for each... I wonder who will be the first gold medalists in climbing.

I thought it was only confirmed for 2020 not all future olympics?
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: turnipturned on August 04, 2016, 09:36:44 am
Fucking Come on VICKERS. First for Gold in X Games and Olympics   :strongbench:
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: Duncan campbell on August 04, 2016, 09:39:37 am
This news means very little to me, but I do think the fact that every athlete has to compete in all three disciplines is a bit  :wank:

Is this format set in stone now or could it be tweaked for future olympics?

Don't get why they didn't split the disciplines up with medals for each... I wonder who will be the first gold medalists in climbing.

I thought it was only confirmed for 2020 not all future olympics?

Oh right, I presumed that confirmed for 2020 meant that would be when climbing would start being in the olympics. I have very little knowledge on this sort of stuff.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: haydn jones on August 04, 2016, 09:48:12 am
Combine all the sports #crossfag
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: bigironhorse on August 04, 2016, 10:13:05 am
This news means very little to me, but I do think the fact that every athlete has to compete in all three disciplines is a bit  :wank:

Is this format set in stone now or could it be tweaked for future olympics?

Don't get why they didn't split the disciplines up with medals for each... I wonder who will be the first gold medalists in climbing.

I thought it was only confirmed for 2020 not all future olympics?

Oh right, I presumed that confirmed for 2020 meant that would be when climbing would start being in the olympics. I have very little knowledge on this sort of stuff.

I thought I had read that the host nation can select some additional events to include sports that are more popular in that country, so climbing wouldn't necessarily be in subsequent olympics. But it doesn't come across like that in the BMC article. Not sure now.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: Will Hunt on August 04, 2016, 10:31:29 am
I fielded some questions at work this morning about speed climbing.

It is begun.

Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on August 04, 2016, 10:51:53 am
They used to have 'demonstration (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Demonstration_sport)' sports but haven't had since 1992. Don't think they commit to it being a permanent fixture, it'll be in it until it's not. If it's popular it might turn out to be the next 'Beach Volleyball'  8) and it'll be there for a while or it could be the next baseball.  :'(
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: Will Hunt on August 04, 2016, 11:08:46 am
Somebody commented on UKC that all official comp speed climbing is done on one standard set route that doesn't change. Can anyone verify whether this is true and to what extent? Is it one route that has been set at some point in the past and is now used in every speed climbing competition worldwide? Do you set a different route for each event and let the competitors practice on it in advance?
What grade is this route?
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: SA Chris on August 04, 2016, 11:16:30 am
Somebody commented on UKC that all official comp speed climbing is done on one standard set route that doesn't change. Can anyone verify whether this is true and to what extent? Is it one route that has been set at some point in the past and is now used in every speed climbing competition worldwide?

I believe this is true. No idea of grades, but it always looks like a reachy jug ladder.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on August 04, 2016, 11:18:11 am
Somebody commented on UKC that all official comp speed climbing is done on one standard set route that doesn't change. Can anyone verify whether this is true and to what extent? Is it one route that has been set at some point in the past and is now used in every speed climbing competition worldwide? Do you set a different route for each event and let the competitors practice on it in advance?
What grade is this route?

Tempted to use LMGTFY but feeling generous... ;)

Lots of info here, https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/index.php/about-ifsc/sport-department/speed-project
Grade is irrelevant but looks piss easy, jugs all the way on a 5 degree overhang.

Want to build your own official wall?...
https://www.ifsc-climbing.org/images/about-ifsc/Speed_Project/140429_SDSpeedLicenseRules4.1-corrected.pdf

Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: roddersm on August 04, 2016, 11:21:12 am
The speed route is around f6c and it's a set standard - there's a 15m one and a 10m one with set spacing. 15m is the full height for comps....I think.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: Fultonius on August 04, 2016, 11:29:44 am
There's one at Ratho. It's wank. Hopefully they have individual medals as well as overall, then at least people can compete in their preferred discipline and pretty much "show up" to the speed comp.

Hopefully the scoring is weighted so that speed isn't really important, just a nonsense addition for show.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: Obi-Wan is lost... on August 04, 2016, 11:33:42 am
https://youtu.be/n4n6xfu8VDU

 :popcorn:
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: Will Hunt on August 04, 2016, 11:43:36 am
That's the happiest I've ever seen anybody after climbing a 6c.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: Will Hunt on August 04, 2016, 11:55:35 am
And this route never changes?  :ohmy:
It's an even worse event than I'd feared.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: roddersm on August 04, 2016, 12:02:49 pm
Nope stays the same - don't like it much either but I suppose it makes sense to display all disciplines in Tokyo an hopefully get individual events at some stage if it goes well.

The speed climb is probably something non climbers can understand maybe from a spectator point of view I would guess?
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: Bonjoy on August 04, 2016, 12:11:43 pm
There's one of the speed climbing 6cs at Awesome Walls in Sheff too
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: Dolly on August 04, 2016, 12:13:32 pm
Does anyone seriously think that this is a good idea ?
I'm not trolling BTW
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: Fultonius on August 04, 2016, 12:39:34 pm
Does anyone seriously think that this is a good idea ?
I'm not trolling BTW

No. I wonder if, because speed climbing is (almost?) an equal player in the IFSC world cups (correct me if I'm wrong), maybe they made their case well in the negotiations? 

I don't give two hoots about comp climbing, but if I was a lead or boulder comp climber, I'd be pretty annoyed. I know we have things like decathlon, but there aren't many sports where they combine marathon, sprinting and weightlifting, for example...
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: Will Hunt on August 04, 2016, 12:44:06 pm
Nope stays the same - don't like it much either but I suppose it makes sense to display all disciplines in Tokyo an hopefully get individual events at some stage if it goes well.

The speed climb is probably something non climbers can understand maybe from a spectator point of view I would guess?

On the contrary I can imagine it leading to confusion in the other events, particularly the lead comp. "So do they get extra marks for doing it faster?"

It doesn't make sense to judge climbing on a criterion that nobody cares about within the sport. It's like having a track event where you give the runners scores out of 10 based on how gracefully they run.

It seems a shame that the best climbers are going to miss out because they either perform poorly in the speed comp, or else don't perform their best in the lead/bouldering comps because they spend a significant portion of the next 4 years practicing doing one easy route very quickly.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: sxrxg on August 04, 2016, 12:45:07 pm
My general feeling is that this isn't a good thing for climbing. I would however like to hear both the potential positives and negatives from others.

My initial thoughts,

Positives: Increased exposure for athletes and potential for more people to earn a living from climbing, better training methods with more research, better injury management and research, more/better climbing walls, potential for cheaper gear as more is produced

Negatives: More rules in climbing, the best may not compete devaluing the competition - also those who don't compete may not be able to gain sponsorship as easily, crags are a finite resource and might not cope with additional numbers of people, BMC becoming more focused on comps and less on access/environmental issues, increased calls more outdoor sport climbing (thin end of the wedge), landowners trying to make money from venues rather than free access (as an example the water company that owns pex hill may try and charge for access, best outdoor climbing for miles around with a large population close by would make it prime development opportunity - they may also either want to bolt the quarry or make people top rope to reduce the risks again devaluing the experience).
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: tomtom on August 04, 2016, 12:46:52 pm
Much As the format for bouldering and regular lead climbing has been refined to make it more of a spectacle... I imagine for the average punter, speed climbing (even may be several side by side?) is much more interesting to watch if you're dropping in and out of it etc....

Still - curling seems to grip the nation and that's not exactly car chase action material...
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: StillTryingForTheTop on August 04, 2016, 01:00:53 pm
in Speed climbing, is it a bit like drag racing in that your reaction time counts and you can jump accidentally the lights for a false start?

I see there is a sensor pad on the ground, which I would assume sets the timer going or checks you haven't jumped the lights?

So does the timer go at the buzzer, or when the foot leaves the ground?
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: Will Hunt on August 04, 2016, 01:07:06 pm
landowners trying to make money from venues rather than free access (as an example the water company that owns pex hill may try and charge for access, best outdoor climbing for miles around with a large population close by would make it prime development opportunity - they may also either want to bolt the quarry or make people top rope to reduce the risks again devaluing the experience).

This is a bit of a nonsense. United Utilities aren't going to start charging people to climb at Pex Hill. Water companies are already under pressure to open up their land to the public for free. Think about how many millions of pounds of expenditure and income a water company makes each year. The revenue from a few top ropes at Pex Hill? Nada. Not worth the trouble. And hardly in their list of duties as a WASC.
Even if it was a plausible scenario and they sold the land to someone with a commercial interest, imagine how difficult it would be to make the place into a profitable venue where large numbers of the general public would want to go. Plumbing, heating, electricity, putting a roof on it etc. Now imagine the comparative pros and cons of just setting up a normal climbing/bouldering wall.

Having climbing in the Olympics is not going to change anything with regards to access.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: Rocksteady on August 04, 2016, 01:10:03 pm
My general feeling is that this isn't a good thing for climbing. I would however like to hear both the potential positives and negatives from others.

My initial thoughts,

Positives: Increased exposure for athletes and potential for more people to earn a living from climbing, better training methods with more research, better injury management and research, more/better climbing walls, potential for cheaper gear as more is produced

Negatives: More rules in climbing, the best may not compete devaluing the competition - also those who don't compete may not be able to gain sponsorship as easily, crags are a finite resource and might not cope with additional numbers of people, BMC becoming more focused on comps and less on access/environmental issues, increased calls more outdoor sport climbing (thin end of the wedge), landowners trying to make money from venues rather than free access (as an example the water company that owns pex hill may try and charge for access, best outdoor climbing for miles around with a large population close by would make it prime development opportunity - they may also either want to bolt the quarry or make people top rope to reduce the risks again devaluing the experience).

I agree with your positives but not necessarily with the read across that more indoor comp climbers will mean more climbers on the crags. My impression from talking to old skool climbers is that the crags were busier 'in the old days' than they are now, despite the fact that many more people are participating in indoor climbing.
Likewise don't think that Olympic indoor sport climbing will mean that there will be more calls for outdoor sport crags. The best training for indoor comps will be indoor climbing.

As such, not sure the commercialisation of outdoor venues that you foresee will come about. I can imagine more young climbers being drawn more into the comp scene than outdoors. That might be a negative for future development, or a positive given that when top comp climbers crank outside they seem to do really well.

I do think the format sounds poor - should be individual medals for the different events rather than combined. Still, on the whole I believe it will be a positive thing, mainly for the investment in optimal training methodology, facilities and sports injury knowledge that will happen as a result.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: BID on August 04, 2016, 01:25:43 pm
I agree with everything that Rocksteady said.
The climbing injury thing. Specific knowledge like that is dreamy.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: gme on August 04, 2016, 01:56:29 pm
I personally think its great that climbing is in the Olympics. As far as i can see there is no negatives in it for competition climbing, anyone who thinks its bad is just not into the idea of having a competitive side to our sport, and probably dont like it being called a sport either.

The only thing that some could see as a negative is the potential for a big increase in participants but this is already happening now due to walls so will being an Olympic sport really accelerate it. And if it does bring a big increase is this an issue, In my personal experience this growth has only lead to the walls being busier and not the crags, definitely the case in the county.

Re the joint format, i agree this seems a bit shit and cant see why they cant have individual medals as well as overall. It wouldn't mean any more time being required.

However i also think that it will be greatly effected by the selection criteria. There are only going to be 20 participants of each sex so is this to be split equally between the three disciplines or based on average ranking over the previous season. If its the latter most of the speed specialists wont even be there and the speed section will just be between the "normal" climbers, which case you may just have the best lead/boulder combined going head to head not against some specialist.

Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: Will Hunt on August 04, 2016, 02:16:26 pm
I personally think its great that climbing is in the Olympics. As far as i can see there is no negatives in it for competition climbing, anyone who thinks its bad is just not into the idea of having a competitive side to our sport, and probably dont like it being called a sport either.

The only thing that some could see as a negative is the potential for a big increase in participants but this is already happening now due to walls so will being an Olympic sport really accelerate it. And if it does bring a big increase is this an issue, In my personal experience this growth has only lead to the walls being busier and not the crags, definitely the case in the county.

Re the joint format, i agree this seems a bit shit and cant see why they cant have individual medals as well as overall. It wouldn't mean any more time being required.

However i also think that it will be greatly effected by the selection criteria. There are only going to be 20 participants of each sex so is this to be split equally between the three disciplines or based on average ranking over the previous season. If its the latter most of the speed specialists wont even be there and the speed section will just be between the "normal" climbers, which case you may just have the best lead/boulder combined going head to head not against some specialist.

That's a good point at the end there. I presume that the speed climbers are weaklings and complete shit *awaits the impressive 8a.nu scorecard of a speed climber*, so unlikely to be entered into a competition where they can only be competitive in one of the events.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: Stu Littlefair on August 04, 2016, 02:28:01 pm
I'm going to play devil's advocado a little bit here with the speed climbing inclusion.

For a start, crappy olympic rules mean that there are limits on the number of medals awarded. To give climbing a shot of being accepted, the pitch was for two medals. So; either choose a discipline or have a combined event.

Also, speed has always been part of climbing and competitive climbing, even if only a fringe part. From alpine fast 'n' light, to big wall speed climbing records to the comps in Spain where you climb as many Riglos routes in a day as you can manage. So it does have a place.

Finally, whilst at the moment speed climbing is pretty dull to watch I can think of a few tweaks the IFSC could make (mainly making the wall slightly harder or longer) which would make it quite compelling viewing. At the moment, IMO, the problem is that it's over too quick for any tension to develop (think indoor 60m vs 100m events). If it lasted ~10s rather than the current ~5s it would be much much better entertainment.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: turnipturned on August 04, 2016, 03:18:27 pm
I think its great that climbing is an Olympic sport, I can only think it will be positive for the climbing community.

Mainly thinking aloud here. I have very little knowledge of competition climbing, however, I can't get my head around how it is a suitable sport for the Olympics. The majority of sports in the Olympics are very standardised i.e. nothing changes from year to year, everything is exactly the same. However, in climbing this is not the case, there are a vast amount of variables. Therefore surely there is too much opportunity for bias? How would one prevent this?

To me speeding climbing (as weird and stupid as it is) seems like the most appropriate as everything is standardised.

On another note, surfing in the Olympic seems insane, what happens if Budapest gets selected as for 2028? Wave pool?



   
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: Will Hunt on August 04, 2016, 03:24:24 pm
Not sure it's true that everything is standardised. You've got things like sailing in there. Isn't stuff like downhill mtb in as well? Not sure how much, if any, practice they get at each run?

You should be competing, Dan! You can climb 6c can't you?  ;)
Just got to do it reeeeeally fast.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: SA Chris on August 04, 2016, 03:31:09 pm

On another note, surfing in the Olympic seems insane, what happens if Budapest gets selected as for 2028? Wave pool?
 

It might not last that long! As much as I love surfing I think it's even duller to watch than competition climbing.

Or they have 12 years to build one of these http://www.kswaveco.com/
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: gme on August 04, 2016, 03:31:54 pm


On another note, surfing in the Olympic seems insane, what happens if Budapest gets selected as for 2028? Wave pool?


http://www.kswaveco.com/ majority owned by the World Surf League, surfing version of the ISFC.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: SA Chris on August 04, 2016, 03:32:45 pm
too slow old man.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: gme on August 04, 2016, 03:35:24 pm
Beat me to it Chris. Its been the dream of the WSL (ASP) to do this for years.

And i disagree with you on the comps. i could watch the surf comps all day (night) when the waves are pumping, especially somewhere like pipe or chopes. Much better than any climbing comp.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: finbarrr on August 04, 2016, 03:36:49 pm
on standardisation: obviously the winter olympics is full of stuff different from event to event: all the ski and snowboard races are set and sculpted by different people.

anyone have a clue if shauna will be climbing routes and speed? she's getting a lot of press, deservedly so, as an ambassador for the sport, but a bit awkward if she is not intending to compete at all
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: r-man on August 04, 2016, 03:48:33 pm
I imagine for the average punter, speed climbing (even may be several side by side?) is much more interesting to watch if you're dropping in and out of it etc....


I don't get this idea. It seems a popular notion, but really? It's just dull. Maybe as Stu said: if the races were longer than 5 sec it might be more interesting.

The reason I dislike watching it isn't because it offends my sense of what climbing should or shouldn't be. I'd be happy to be entertained if it provided some sort of engaging competition, just as I am happy to watch a hundred other sports I am unlikely to try myself.

 
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: roddersm on August 04, 2016, 04:10:03 pm
Nope stays the same - don't like it much either but I suppose it makes sense to display all disciplines in Tokyo an hopefully get individual events at some stage if it goes well.

The speed climb is probably something non climbers can understand maybe from a spectator point of view I would guess?

On the contrary I can imagine it leading to confusion in the other events, particularly the lead comp. "So do they get extra marks for doing it faster?"

It doesn't make sense to judge climbing on a criterion that nobody cares about within the sport. It's like having a track event where you give the runners scores out of 10 based on how gracefully they run.

It seems a shame that the best climbers are going to miss out because they either perform poorly in the speed comp, or else don't perform their best in the lead/bouldering comps because they spend a significant portion of the next 4 years practicing doing one easy route very quickly.

I agree with that - I think its a real shame that we probably won't see the some of the best competition climbers who are really specialist, like Ramonet, Jan Hojer, Shauna Coxey - or even Ondra.

I expect it will favor the likes of Shaun McColl who can do all 3 events.

However I think it was the IOC themselves who recommended the IFSC go for this format to give themselves the best chance of getting in the last time it was shortlisted.

I think the exposure climbing will get will be all positive for the sport and hopefully will lead to 3 events and the best comp climbers competing in future olympics.

I did hear from someone involved with the GB team saying it wouldn't make much difference to funding though as that is allocated based on how many medals a sport may win and on previous results, so climbing will be bottom of the barrel. Not sure if that is true or not.

 
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: SA Chris on August 04, 2016, 04:16:59 pm
And i disagree with you on the comps. i could watch the surf comps all day (night) when the waves are pumping, especially somewhere like pipe or chopes. Much better than any climbing comp.

Don't get me wrong, I like watching surfing videos, especially in pumping swells, just think it being a comp adds too much subjectivity to someone just getting out and charging, and the surfing can be forced to get a bit too "showy" to score the points.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: r-man on August 04, 2016, 04:21:30 pm

I agree with that - I think its a real shame that we probably won't see the some of the best competition climbers who are really specialist, like Ramonet, Jan Hojer, Shauna Coxey - or even Ondra.

Shauna was British Lead Champion a few years ago. Bet you she dusts of the harness...

Jan was a German lead cup winner last year...

I'd be surprised if most of the top climbers didn't make the cut.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: roddersm on August 04, 2016, 04:27:36 pm
I stand corrected! No way Ramon is winning a speed comp though!
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: cowboyhat on August 04, 2016, 07:07:08 pm
I don't know whether it'll be good for climbing but I don't think it should be in the Olympics which is already too bloated.

Neither should tennis, golf, football, shooting, archery, handball, all equestrian, road cycling, 58 varieties of small boat!, any other sport where the Olympics isn't the main focus and has an established main event of its own and anything that has an equipment requirement that excludes 98% of participating nations. Climbing just adds to the farce.

etc.



Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: Wood FT on August 05, 2016, 08:38:42 am
I don't know whether it'll be good for climbing but I don't think it should be in the Olympics which is already too bloated.

Neither should tennis, golf, football, shooting, archery, handball, all equestrian, road cycling, 58 varieties of small boat!, any other sport where the Olympics isn't the main focus and has an established main event of its own and anything that has an equipment requirement that excludes 98% of participating nations. Climbing just adds to the farce.

etc.

exactly, when I watch the olympics I want to see a fat man chucking a heavy thing or carbon fibre spear down range. How's an umpire gunna get injured in climbing? Useless...
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: turnipturned on August 05, 2016, 09:13:29 am

[/quote]

exactly, when I watch the olympics I want to see a fat man chucking a heavy thing or carbon fibre spear down range. How's an umpire gunna get injured in climbing? Useless...
[/quote]

I recon there would be a high risk of an umpire getting injured if I was involved!
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: Rocksteady on August 05, 2016, 10:36:36 am
I don't know whether it'll be good for climbing but I don't think it should be in the Olympics which is already too bloated.

Neither should tennis, golf, football, shooting, archery, handball, all equestrian, road cycling, 58 varieties of small boat!, any other sport where the Olympics isn't the main focus and has an established main event of its own and anything that has an equipment requirement that excludes 98% of participating nations. Climbing just adds to the farce.

etc.

I don't have a problem with lots of sports being in the Olympics. Personally I quite like watching an obscure sport get its quadrennial time to shine. The ones I do have an issue with are where they are already a pro sport and winning the Olympics isn't the biggest deal. Eg. football, golf, tennis, road cycling are particularly egregious examples. I think if you'd rather win a different competition than the Olympics, the sport shouldn't be in the Olympics.

Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: webbo on August 05, 2016, 11:44:25 am
I don't get the bit about road cycling shouldn't be in the Olympics. Its been since the start of the modern games 1896. I know it used to be only for amateurs but there is no longer such a category in cycling much like other sports such as athletics.
It is seen as one of the major races to win with much kudos, Sammy Sanchez after winning gold at Beijing always wore gold shoes.   
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: Rocksteady on August 05, 2016, 11:52:48 am
I don't get the bit about road cycling shouldn't be in the Olympics. Its been since the start of the modern games 1896. I know it used to be only for amateurs but there is no longer such a category in cycling much like other sports such as athletics.
It is seen as one of the major races to win with much kudos, Sammy Sanchez after winning gold at Beijing always wore gold shoes.

Ah OK that seems fair, I wasn't aware of the history just thinking that the various Tours seem much bigger races with higher profile and kudos in the cycling world. The Olympic track cycling seems to me to be the focus, but that is my own limited perspective.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: Wood FT on August 05, 2016, 01:08:54 pm


exactly, when I watch the olympics I want to see a fat man chucking a heavy thing or carbon fibre spear down range. How's an umpire gunna get injured in climbing? Useless...
[/quote]

I recon there would be a high risk of an umpire getting injured if I was involved!
[/quote]

Didn't Malc once throw a shoe in a comp once or have I been dreaming about Malc (again)
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: SA Chris on August 05, 2016, 01:38:04 pm
You mean like a horse throws a shoe?

Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: Duncan campbell on August 05, 2016, 02:13:02 pm


exactly, when I watch the olympics I want to see a fat man chucking a heavy thing or carbon fibre spear down range. How's an umpire gunna get injured in climbing? Useless...

I recon there would be a high risk of an umpire getting injured if I was involved!
[/quote]

Didn't Malc once throw a shoe in a comp once or have I been dreaming about Malc (again)
[/quote]

Yes that was in your amazing tantrums thread!
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: ferret on August 05, 2016, 02:17:54 pm



exactly, when I watch the olympics I want to see a fat man chucking a heavy thing or carbon fibre spear down range. How's an umpire gunna get injured in climbing? Useless...
[/quote]

Theres always hope of ice climbing in the winter olympics and sticking Gresham in there
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: cowboyhat on August 05, 2016, 02:53:25 pm
I don't know whether it'll be good for climbing but I don't think it should be in the Olympics which is already too bloated.

Neither should tennis, golf, football, shooting, archery, handball, all equestrian, road cycling, 58 varieties of small boat!, any other sport where the Olympics isn't the main focus and has an established main event of its own and anything that has an equipment requirement that excludes 98% of participating nations. Climbing just adds to the farce.

etc.



I don't have a problem with lots of sports being in the Olympics. Personally I quite like watching an obscure sport get its quadrennial time to shine. The ones I do have an issue with are where they are already a pro sport and winning the Olympics isn't the biggest deal. Eg. football, golf, tennis, road cycling are particularly egregious examples. I think if you'd rather win a different competition than the Olympics, the sport shouldn't be in the Olympics.

I'll amend my point, this "issue with are where they are already a pro sport and winning the Olympics isn't the biggest deal" is what I was trying to say but you're right about smaller sports. If the olympics is their main thing and has been for a long time.

And I watch cycling avidly but I was lumping it in with tennis and golf because the Olympics is so bloated. It seems more pertinent this time with Brazils money and social woes.

I want Brazil to host a brilliant Olympics, that they can afford. Obvs its too late but: trim the roster, have temporary structures that travel around the world instead of all this legacy spending bullshit. Otherwise it'll continue to cycle through the G8 who can just about afford it.



Back on topic, I imagine my lack of understanding about the difference between all the small boats/canoeing classes etc is a good parallel for climbing. I can't work out how many individual medals are available in sailing but i think its six each for male and female. We're all up in arms about speed climbing but I think its a neat solution otherwise, SIX medals for little boats! I know everyone of those sailors would defend the differences which are meaningless to everyone else.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: SA Chris on August 05, 2016, 03:07:12 pm
In white water there are medals for using a one sided oar or two, and one person i the boat or two. I think they should also have medals for white water tubing (traditionally done drunk) and white water rafting (traditionally done stoned).
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: Jaspersharpe on August 07, 2016, 06:07:13 pm
In white water there are medals for using a one sided oar or two, and one person i the boat or two. I think they should also have medals for white water tubing (traditionally done drunk) and white water rafting (traditionally done stoned).
Maybe there should be an extra climbing medal for showboating. Missing out holds, chalk and blow, not matching etc
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: 36chambers on August 07, 2016, 06:34:39 pm
That's the happiest I've ever seen anybody after climbing a 6c.

and don't forget they're top roping...
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: Will Hunt on August 07, 2016, 07:42:18 pm
In white water there are medals for using a one sided oar or two, and one person i the boat or two. I think they should also have medals for white water tubing (traditionally done drunk) and white water rafting (traditionally done stoned).
Maybe there should be an extra climbing medal for showboating. Missing out holds, chalk and blow, not matching etc

Now there's a competition I could get behind. Extra credit awarded for heckling a rival so savagely that they fall off. Ties decided by whose nicked the greatest value of merch from the Olympic Village.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: dave on August 07, 2016, 08:43:35 pm
In white water there are medals for using a one sided oar or two, and one person i the boat or two. I think they should also have medals for white water tubing (traditionally done drunk) and white water rafting (traditionally done stoned).
Maybe there should be an extra climbing medal for showboating. Missing out holds, chalk and blow, not matching etc

In effect this is already what they have in swimming. Backstroke is the equivalent of climbing wronghanded, and fuck knows what butterfly is, like footlessing everything doubled, no thumbs, facing outwards or some shit.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: tomtom on August 07, 2016, 09:27:26 pm
So based on this thread - in climbing there should also be medals awarded for moaning? ;)
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: petejh on August 07, 2016, 11:34:43 pm
Well OMM, SeanK and Will take Olympic gold in the marathon brexit thread then.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: lagerstarfish on August 08, 2016, 07:35:52 am
Maybe there should be an extra climbing medal for showboating. Missing out holds, chalk and blow, not matching etc

sounds like the mighty Olympic sport that is dressage
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: SA Chris on August 08, 2016, 10:20:18 am
So based on this thread - in climbing there should also be medals awarded for moaning? ;)

And excuse making. A key facet of climbing
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: SA Chris on August 12, 2016, 02:11:17 pm
Does anyone think 34 medals in swimming races alone (then more for diving and synchronised swimming!) is excessive? I think they could at least have a minor cull there and no-one would really notice, and give a couple to climbing.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: dave on August 12, 2016, 02:15:27 pm
Let every other event be allowed to double or triple up, by doing the same basic event but with everyone running backwards, and then again skipping.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: SA Chris on August 12, 2016, 02:20:06 pm
Have a horse event with a horse going backwards, sideways and skipping. What do you mean that's what they do in dressage??
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: slackline on August 12, 2016, 02:21:04 pm
doing the same basic event but with everyone running backwards, and then again skipping.

Or whilst sat on the khazi having a shit.  Works well for diving...

(https://i.imgur.com/onnRjaX.jpg)
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: tomtom on August 12, 2016, 03:09:08 pm
I'm well into the horse disco. They need some techno backing though. MDMA tests on the nags.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: SA Chris on August 12, 2016, 03:21:37 pm
We've just reviewed the list.

Golf
Handball
Basketball
Taekwondo

out.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: Will Hunt on August 12, 2016, 04:07:37 pm
Don't forget to tune in tonight everyone. Half past 6 is the final of the Men's 20Km Walk. That's right. WALKING IS A FUCKING OLYMPIC SPORT. They are going to crown somebody the Olympic walking champion.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: SA Chris on August 15, 2016, 08:41:06 am
More like a 20km mince. Strangely appropriate, as it's total mince.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: tomtom on August 15, 2016, 09:11:34 am
I'm loving the olympics... Superb.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: SA Chris on August 15, 2016, 09:21:39 am
We need a separate thread....
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: Plattsy on August 15, 2016, 09:22:20 am
Walking 20 km in 80 mins is impressive to me.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: SA Chris on August 15, 2016, 09:24:35 am
Many things are impressive, doesn't mean they should be olympic sports. Walking on your hands is impressive.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: Plattsy on August 15, 2016, 09:43:23 am
Lots of walking on hands in the pommel horse discipline.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: Will Hunt on August 15, 2016, 10:13:56 am
The problem I have with the walking event is that it's a shit version of running. I know you have to be fit to do it, but it's basically watching a bunch of blokes desperately trying not to break into a run. They may as well have an egg and spoon race or a three legged race. Or a climbing event where you're only allowed to use one hand, or have to wear normal trainers.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: dave on August 15, 2016, 10:26:35 am
Equestrianism - bin it
Football - ditto, nobody gives a shit. Do five-a-side instead.
Golf - as if that's even a sport? might as well have Darts instead.

Walking - fair game I say, when else is it on telly? Unique in that it's the only athletics event that is in effect judged on maintaining perfect form. Plus has the added excitement of people being randomly disqualified, like this from Sydney (http://corporate.olympics.com.au/sports/athletics/videos/media/B4580B80-2FB2-11E3-A7D0005056A37760) when the lass was just coming into the final lap in front of a home crowd.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: SA Chris on August 15, 2016, 10:35:30 am
Lots of walking on hands in the pommel horse discipline.

Yeah, but we at least get gold in that.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: GraemeA on August 15, 2016, 11:13:36 am
exactly, when I watch the olympics I want to see a fat man chucking a heavy thing or carbon fibre spear down range. How's an umpire gunna get injured in climbing? Useless...

Gresh managed to take out a belayer in one of the early Ice Climbing World Cups when he dropped one of his axes.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: Will Hunt on August 15, 2016, 11:59:45 am
Walking - fair game I say, when else is it on telly? Unique in that it's the only athletics event that is in effect judged on maintaining perfect form.

First the Climb Britain rant and now this. Dave, LAY DOWN THE CRACK PIPE! If you're arsed about form then go and watch the gymnastics or the diving or the dressage. Athletics is about jumping or chucking something the furthest, or getting from A to B faster than the other lot.

Seeing that clip of the Aussie getting disqualified reminds me that I saw that on the news when it originally happened. I was 11 at the time and it had faded into a vague memory, such that until you posted it there I had assumed that my memory was of seeing it in some sort of sketch comedy show - such is the unbelievable worthlessness of competitive walking.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: galpinos on August 15, 2016, 01:09:39 pm
The problem I have with the walking event is that it's a shit version of running.

Like every swimming stroke that isn't front crawl. Now, swim 100m but in a less efficient manner.....
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: Footwork on August 15, 2016, 01:13:40 pm
The problem I have with the walking event is that it's a shit version of running.

Like every swimming stroke that isn't front crawl. Now, swim 100m but in a less efficient manner.....

exactly
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: Footwork on August 15, 2016, 04:50:17 pm
Just watched 10 minutes of dressage. How it's an Olympic 'sport' goes beyond me. At least have Mongolian horseback archery or something. 
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: SA Chris on August 15, 2016, 05:09:25 pm
I think this may be the solution - combined sports! Dressage + Archery, Walking and skeet shooting (bit like winter duathlon)....
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: galpinos on August 15, 2016, 05:13:48 pm
Just watched 10 minutes of dressage. How it's an Olympic 'sport' goes beyond me.

They should get random horses like they do in pentathlon, that'd sort out the best rider. At the moment, it's who can buy the best horse.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: tomtom on August 15, 2016, 05:20:07 pm
I think this may be the solution - combined sports! Dressage + Archery, Walking and skeet shooting (bit like winter duathlon)....

Modern pentathlon comes kind of close:

Quote
The modern pentathlon is an Olympic sport that comprises five very different events: fencing, 200m freestyle swimming, show jumping, and a final combined event of pistol shooting, and a 3200m cross-country run.


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Modern_pentathlon
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: SA Chris on August 15, 2016, 05:28:33 pm
kind of. But that's additional to, not instead of.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on February 21, 2019, 01:55:17 pm
So...
Assuming Sean is correctly informed.
This looks like a positive step and finally speed is seperated for 2024:

https://www.facebook.com/242287549221069/posts/2039224906193982?sfns=mo (https://www.facebook.com/242287549221069/posts/2039224906193982?sfns=mo)

Sorry for the FB link, but not heard this anywhere else yet.
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: Will Hunt on February 21, 2019, 02:11:02 pm
Sorry for the FB link, but not heard this anywhere else yet.

Not even here?
https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,29895.0.html
Title: Re: Climbing is an Olympic sport!
Post by: Oldmanmatt on February 21, 2019, 03:00:21 pm
Ha!

No.

But, I’m at work and one of climbers let me know, in the middle of Lattice assessment dummy runs...
That’s my excuse.
So, I posted it without looking. My bad.
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