UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: cheque on October 30, 2019, 09:53:08 am
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This post (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,22118.msg592409.html#msg592409) mentions James Squire doing a new problem with the what he says is the hardest move he's ever done.
Made me wonder what the hardest move I've ever done is. Like Ben Moon in One Summer, I don't think I've ever done a really hard move. ;)
Anyway, I also thought it would make a good thread. What's the hardest move you've ever done?
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Of moves I've done, statistically speaking it's move no.1 of Not To Be Taken Away. I tried it loads of times, the one time I succeeded I topped the problem and despite numerous attempts to repeat it I've never managed to do it since!
Of moves I've very, very nearly done it's the pop of Deliverance. Literally had my fingers over the top a couple of times and still no tick. I fear that ship may have sailed for me as the advancing years take effect.
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On a route: the crux of Gwennan (Dinbren) before it broke.
Bouldering: I've never bouldered hard because I'm piss weak.
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Fun question Cheque.. I've broken it down
Strongest I've pulled: I really don't know - felt like Klems on sunday!
Most tricky/awkward: Fridge Hugger SS, Blackstone
Lowest percentage: Jericho Road
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This one.
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dzpnQcwSysI/WkUFQhDhF1I/AAAAAAAAB8Q/GshKsyJuAmgXJjQtD0h8iYzyPQv8jITWACLcBGAs/s1600/MOV_1152_-645646445.jpg)
Move one of my Old Man Logan project.
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This is very interesting indeed. It also depends on whether it's a hard move for you or just a hard move in general. For me on paper, the two hardest moves I've done are the joker and first blood, both being one move 8A's but neither of them felt like I was pulling that hard for them. In comparison for me, the cut loose and swing on teatime felt like I was pulling as hard as possible even in isolation but that's probably because I'm pretty heavy and suck at tiny holds.
Oh and I'm assuming this is outdoors otherwise it's probably some horrific move I made on a board somewhere
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What is a move??
(serious question and one of the first things i ever posted on UKC 18 years ago, without, iirc, a satisfactory answer - it was inspired by then doing Green Death original start which gets 6b but felt like 3-4 6a hand/foot movements in a row)
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Hmmm a quick review suggests that all the ‘hard’ problems I’ve done have just been a sequence of moderately difficult moves! Ones that stick out as actually tricky moves though:
- Getting my bum off the ground on Impropa Sit
- Using the sloper thing on Tourniquet
- First move of Paroxysm
- Move to lip on Second Base (RIP Whitehouses)
- Move off poor pinch on The Nowist
As per the Moon quote, it often seems that once you’ve learned to put your body in the right place, apply the right amount of force in the right direction, these things don’t feel that hard any more and are more readily repeatable. For the ones I’ve chosen I’ve tried to think about how unlikely they seemed initially compared to actually doing them.
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Pretty much every move at cragx, though the 3rd move of The Pinch is probably the hardest move I've ever done.
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Probably this esoteric little number near bristol. Took 6 or 7 sessions and it's basically a single move. As others have said, it seems pretty morphology dependent. I reckon if you had long arms and stubby little legs it'd feel easier.
https://youtu.be/lZT3CK3YP_g
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Either Jack's arete at woodhouse.
or
Doing the keel just taking the swing and campusing. (not one move but there you go)
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Fun thread, I like.
Presuming we're talking on rock, probably one that springs to mind for me is the crux throw to the lip on Sole Fusion at Crookrise. Something like 5 sessions over 3 seasons and I've done the move once, then sadly fell off the next move.
Few other candidates;
- technically two or three moves, but the left hand deadpoint to the arete edge, matching right hand, then holding the cut on Zoo York felt like the hardest climbing I'd ever done when I first did it. Such a cool sequence. Can only imagine how it feels to do the whole thing!
- right hand dyno variant of Frank at Ilkley Rocky Valley. Match the slot, getting left on a terrible crimp, then flick right hand and catch an awkwardly angled jug, holding a big cut.
- crux deadpoint to the mono on The Lash at Birk Gill (I normally climb in silence, but I let out an involuntary power scream sticking this!).
- not actually all that hard in hindsight, or in the grand scheme of things, but I remember the first time I tried Inaudible Vaudeville at the Stone and feeling like I'd never be able to hold the move. I now do it on almost every visit and it's always awesome.
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Fun thread, I like.
Cheers. Seems a thread about doing hard rock climbing moves can’t compete with talking about politics on here these days :rolleyes: but I’m glad some people are interested in such a niche topic. ;)
Of moves I've very, very nearly done it's the pop of Deliverance. Literally had my fingers over the top a couple of times and still no tick. I fear that ship may have sailed for me as the advancing years take effect.
Very, very nearly done doesn’t count I’m afraid Tommy. ;) Also, what kind of an attitude is that?! :jab:
I reckon my hardest move of the “pull hard and gurn” type must be the crux of The Pinch at Pleasley Vale. It’s certainly the only lime 7A I’ve done. There’s a move on Obscene Toilet at Raven Tor that I could only do once (in my session of playing on the route on a toppy) that felt just as hard but I was definitely lighter, stronger and climbing better when I did The Pinch.
In the “how am I not falling off, there’s nothing connecting me to this slab?!” category I reckon it would be something on Over the Moors Direct at Ravenstones which I flashed on a toprope as Mark20 told me exactly what to do move-by-move. Couldn’t believe how tenuous that felt or that I was successfully moving up it. C3PO at the Roaches is definitely harder but I don’t think I can really claim to have done any of the moves on that- just carried through the momentum of standing up on the first smear slightly further than usual on a few goes. :lol:
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Good thread Mike, and a tricky question. Numerically, the sit start to silk, though I don't remember it being a real grunt. For me, perhaps the last move of WSS, or one of the rat crimp moves on rubis sure l'ongles, subjectively, it might actually be the move of not falling out of the top of the slot bit on gin palace. Psychologically, maybe that off balance bit in the run out on Souls, or bumbling on a couple of lichen covered flakes on the upper section of the Cad.
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Great idea for a thread.
A few spring to mind:
Flick of the Wrist - The flick move off the flat pinch with the non-foot to the notch felt completely unthinkable when I first tried it a few years back. I could not fathom how anyone could pull that hard off those holds and still have enough to hold the deceivingly bad notch. As is always the case though, I did it a few months back and then did another lap for video, and it did not feel all that bad. But definitely up that with the hardest moves I have done on rock.
Pie Shop - Only took me 25 mins to do really, and I almost stuck it first go. But being a one move 7C I guess it probably is one of the hardest moves I have done.
Diesel Power - I don't really know which move in particular, but one of them probably is. Perhaps one of the foot movements?
Arfa Dog - Deserves a mention here, having the hardest move on any problem I have the first ascent of, despite being a fair bit easier than the above. Took me a lot of fiddling to find the perfect ripple on the glassy, sea washed sloper to execute the first move.
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Every move on Right Eliminate.
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Like others, most of my hard problems are multiple semi-hard moves in a row...
I suspect my hardest is either the first move (I'm assuming go-and-go-again can count as 1 move?) on working 9-5 sit, or the first move of Lost for Life in the Grampians...
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I assume after this we'll have a most frustrating move, lowest percentage move and biggest move thread?
For me one of these possibly:
- Drop down move on Figure of 8
- The crimp move on the Rhino
- Maybe my hardest dyno - Voltex
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I once got delusions of grandeur, forgot that I'm an old staminamachine and spend some time working a 3 move 8a. I could link the first into the second, the second into the third, but never link all three. Anyone of those moves are likely the hardest move I've done. That was six years ago. I've successfully avoided hard moves ever since.
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bus stop mantel. thats all one move right?
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Moves are pretty hard to isolate in hard sequences. The harder climbing that I've done is most often a series of moves that are kind of difficult. And when you do a problem that centres around one hard move, it never seems that hard when you do it!
Some things spring to mind in order of probable hardness (with the hardest first):
The move to stand on the smear and reach over to the pocket on what later became Your Grace at Earl Seat is probably the hardest move I've done. It seemed to be really random when I would do it and I was never quite sure what I was doing differently when I did it. I think I did it successfully once or twice over something like 3 or 4 sessions.
Maybe doing the foot-swap-to-the-other-arete move on Red Baron Roof when I did it as a cut loose. Had to do it much more slickly to actually be able to carry on to the top.
Phoenix Wall at Panorama Crag. I did it differently to most and I'm still not sure how it worked. Gravity looked away for a second.
https://vimeo.com/118397764
The move on Matt's Roof at Almscliff. Had to shout as I did it. Reach dependent so who knows how hard that problem is for me.
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I'm now looking forward to the Easiest Move You Haven't Done thread.
Maybe, the last hand move to put your hand in the break on Stu's Roof Left (lots of swearing and despair).
The bunched up throw to the top of the boulder on Olicana Arete.
The lip moves on that stupid Get A Grip at Eavestone (no. That's actually a really hard move).
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The final pop on jocks and geordies. My fave.
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The final pop on jocks and geordies. My fave.
And, coincidentally, watching you drop over and over was the Hardest Thing You've Had To Watch In Climbing for me.
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I'm struggling with this question. Time Regained is probably the hardest sequence I've done on a trad lead.
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I'm torn between 3/4 problems:
catching the rh pinch on Deluvian at Kilnsey
Start move to Grand/Impropa sit at The Bowderstone
pulling up on the tiny LH sidepull on Tea with Elamarie in Rocklands
First move of Submarine at Craigy longridge (200 ish attempts went the first time i caught it)
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Hardest move I ever did was first move on Declassified on Portland. Took multiple sessions just to do the move, I think I did it twice and the second time went to the top with a pretty weighty plant dab. Couldn’t bring myself to try it again after that, maybe one day I’ll have another go.
Watching the video back now it does look pretty suspect to me.
https://youtu.be/XxQ8Fuh4qVw?t=1m19s
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But at least I did the move!
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I'm struggling with this question. Time Regained is probably the hardest sequence I've done on a trad lead.
Time for a hardest question you have ever been asked about climbing thread?
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I'm torn between 3/4 problems:
catching the rh pinch on Deluvian at Kilnsey
Start move to Grand/Impropa sit at The Bowderstone
pulling up on the tiny LH sidepull on Tea with Elamarie in Rocklands
First move of Submarine at Craigy longridge (200 ish attempts went the first time i caught it)
Your undercling problem at Blackstone is nearly my hardest move. Nearly - because I’ve not managed to do it!
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Do I need to have climbed the whole thing? If not, its the shoulder move out right on Mr Fantastic. If so, then its the Graviton mantel (or any mantel, to be honest).
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It's weird how hard this is to answer, I was kind of assuming that the cliché "I've never really done a hard move" was just a bit of false modesty nonsense, but have looked through the hardest things in my logbook a few times now and can't really come up with any. Maybe the crossover bit on Devon Sent?
There's a hard drop in move on Electric Copper in Rocklands, but I could repeat that pretty consistently.
Dynos are nicely defined single moves and feel hard if you only just catch them, Push the Tempo in Rocklands felt amazing but I suspect if I had a few more goes I could have refined the body position and had a bit to spare.
The move on Tea with Elmarie that peewee mentioned is def a lot harder than any of these but I couldn't do it :-(
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The short person's jump to the better arete gaston/guppy on Sulky Little Boys @ Slipstones. Absolutely desperate. For tall / normal people you'd just reach the hold with your feet in the low break, and it would be so trivial it's scarcely a move, before relaxing into the rockover to the pocket, which is of course piss and took me 2 or 3 goes after spending 2 sessions trying to catch the pop.
All of the moves on Monkey Spanking @ Cambusbarron. Not sure there's a single move quite as hard as that SLB one but it's all one desperate sequence.
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a few options
thing that felt hardest to me = WSS with a left toe hook under the undercut handhold - swap with LH (and then finish the route). Pointless, but felt so solid.
Gaia direct finish (on top rope) - not sure if this was actually hard, or just because I was thinking about the lead
The Angel's Share (on top rope, before pads) - felt fine when I first did it; then didn't
Three More Reps on the Calf at Ilkley - not my thing, but managed it with great effort (when very light after 7 months in Thailand)
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Now I think about it, I don't think I've done any really hard moves. Hardest for me would probably be the first move on Soul Crusher at Anston or, if we include eliminates, the 3rd move of Ron's problem at Gollums Cave.
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The hardest rock over in the world (apparently) Windows of Perception. Groin strain, ankle sprain, virtually dislocate big toe, and split all tips in one foul henious herniated swoop. The mono one armer of the right big toe. Farming.
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WSS seems popular so for me it would probably be moving my left hand from the third side pull back down to the crimp and then up to the crimp below the break. The latter being a move I only did twice.
Another candidate for me would be the last Move on art of white hat wearing. Felt so hard to generate any movement and only just caught the top with the tips of my two middle fingers!
Glad I never have to do it again as I could get up to the top move every go but spent ages trying to do this last move.
For me doing moves even this easy is a rarity...
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The few which come to mind (though I’m a bit shit) are:
First move of The Green Wing at Baildon - big move to a weird position undercut/side pull.
First move of left wall in parisellas - Don’t know why this took so much out of me each time.
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As with everyone else I have a few candidates....
The last one/ two moves of rock attrocity/hatch twisting up to the intermediate then bumping to the slot (that's one move right ;-) redpoint crux and droppable even in isolation.
A few months back I went up to bingo wings... First move was nails, I only managed it twice in the session and failed to follow it up with the second move.
The final move on Be Ruthless, tried it on and off for years, couldn't catch the jump, but I found a toe hook a few weeks back and that made it ok, does that still count as a hardest move if you find a different way to do it?
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Once or twice I've done Pebble Wall at Almscliffe barely using the Pebble, just mantelling off right hand to pebble with left, barely touching it then pop to the scoop. It would brutalise my right wrist and shoulders for about 3 days after, and always felt incredibly hard, needed the exact positing of everything to do it right; left foot need to be on toe, not heel or you can't go far enough.
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One comes to mind is an eliminate just left of Trackside, using a mono and a sort of polished bump, going for a high pocket.
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In fact - I’ve not done the problem, but I’d change my earlier comments to but only the move on Underhand at Almscliff where you’ve got the heel in, going from the RH crimp/slot out to the pinch and then again.
Really really really low percentage for me!!
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You've done the move though, still counts
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In fact - I’ve not done the problem, but I’d change my earlier comments to but only the move on Underhand at Almscliff where you’ve got the heel in, going from the RH crimp/slot out to the pinch and then again.
Really really really low percentage for me!!
Double heel hook.... locks you in solid. I can go static to that hold then just to the lip..,
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Im not sure its been repeated yet? maybe i was a tad harsh giving it 7B ;D
I'm torn between 3/4 problems:
catching the rh pinch on Deluvian at Kilnsey
Start move to Grand/Impropa sit at The Bowderstone
pulling up on the tiny LH sidepull on Tea with Elamarie in Rocklands
First move of Submarine at Craigy longridge (200 ish attempts went the first time i caught it)
Your undercling problem at Blackstone is nearly my hardest move. Nearly - because I’ve not managed to do it!
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In fact - I’ve not done the problem, but I’d change my earlier comments to but only the move on Underhand at Almscliff where you’ve got the heel in, going from the RH crimp/slot out to the pinch and then again.
Really really really low percentage for me!!
Double heel hook.... locks you in solid. I can go static to that hold then just to the lip..,
I clearly need to do some hangs - I’ve only ever had it feel okay once ;D
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In fact - I’ve not done the problem, but I’d change my earlier comments to but only the move on Underhand at Almscliff where you’ve got the heel in, going from the RH crimp/slot out to the pinch and then again.
Really really really low percentage for me!!
Double heel hook.... locks you in solid. I can go static to that hold then just to the lip..,
I clearly need to do some hangs - I’ve only ever had it feel okay once ;D
I personally use a toe in the bit that some people use the heel. Might be worth a bash. If you can get Underhand wired then doing the extension is a formality.
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Double heel hook.... locks you in solid. I can go static to that hold then just to the lip..,
Requires lank, otherwise you get locked in nice and solid but you can’t reach the hold :lol:
I find this UHand move hard, it’s deffo more of a lottery for me to repeat than stuff that’s harder in paper at the cliff.
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If only I can get up underhand again...
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Agreed, Tim. I always felt like Underhand was a bit harder than the Keel. That move did cross my mind when thinking about the hardest I've done.
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Double heel hook.... locks you in solid. I can go static to that hold then just to the lip..,
Requires lank, otherwise you get locked in nice and solid but you can’t reach the hold :lol:
I find this UHand move hard, it’s deffo more of a lottery for me to repeat than stuff that’s harder in paper at the cliff.
Double heel hook to get the slot isn’t a lank move - Anna showed showed me that trick.
Getting the lip with feet on obvs is - but as a throw/cut loose it’s not that bad a move.
https://vimeo.com/78906556
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Probably the rockover on Tied up and Swallowed 7C as demonstrated on the FA by Paul Sav
(https://photos1.blogger.com/blogger/1181/865/320/psavchimdem.jpg)
I used a heel rather than the toe as in the end of this vid (which has the additional 7B traverse in to it). Feels like your hammy is going to rip every time! Good memories of this one as i'd sacked it for the day after a few failed attempts before my mate convinced me to have one more go, just as the tide was just about to cover the starting foothold. My 2nd kid was due a few days later so i knew i wasn't getting another session on it any time soon and my first kid stole the show by trying to remove the mats mid attempt!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AFNPqU27OQU
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The right hand slap to the nose, whilst holding the undercling with your left, on “Biceps power” Can Boquet.
At first, I couldn’t even imagine how to release the right.
Then it seemed such a long way/time to hold the position with your left arm screaming.
Then the frickin nose seemed impossible to actually hold anyway.
Then, the idea of moving on from the nose, or even blinking, whilst your left arm burned and your right hand began to slip...
Three sessions a week, nigh on eight months.
One fricken move.
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One comes to mind is an eliminate just left of Trackside, using a mono and a sort of polished bump, going for a high pocket.
I love that problem.
I can't do it at the moment.
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It's kinda a hard one to love in some ways, and I could never touch it again either.
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Interesting thread. I’ve had to split it into sub-questions…
Hard and big grade for me: Crossover on Caveman Low. Move by itself wasn’t that low percentage, but adding a single easy hand move and three tricky foot moves made it hard to get the power.
ManOr Mouse. So hard to get the distance and then hold it.
Hard and smaller grade for me: L’Impasse du Hasard. Think I tried this over 6 sessions before I could get my foot up to do it. The gurn was strong…
Biggest number: Joker/Ferrino Footless/Grey House
Easiest move not done: First move of pitch two of Suicide Wall at Bosigran
Find it interesting that I can’t think of any really hard static/slow moves, and that there aren’t that many mentioned. First move of Flatworld would have taken that spot for me a few years ago, but getting a bit more lock strength knocked it off the list.
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One comes to mind is an eliminate just left of Trackside, using a mono and a sort of polished bump, going for a high pocket.
I love that problem.
I can't do it at the moment.
Still can't do that one, although I was using the sidepull, not the mono. Lost so much knuckle skin to it over the years...
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First move of pitch two of Suicide Wall at Bosigran
Is that the polished ex-peg crack / seam? I seem to remember being able to lank round that somehow.
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Did someone ask "what's a move?" earlier in this thread? Regardless of number hand or foot movements, I would say a move is simply any shenanigans occurring between two points of relative stability.
Two obvious candidates for me:
The slap on Blacking out the Friction at Godrevy, which seems to be both low percentage in terms of needing accuracy, and is also on the very limit of my contact strength. More strength across the shoulders very quickly makes this trivial for stronger climbers.
The first move of Eat It SS at Fair Head. The whole problem is at least 7C in my book, and this move is acutely the crux. It's weird though, because some fairly average climbers absolutely piss it, and some 8th grade climbers find it hard.
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I asked it, and thanks for an answer!
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First move of pitch two of Suicide Wall at Bosigran
Is that the polished ex-peg crack / seam? I seem to remember being able to lank round that somehow.
Not sure! I only remember fear and a lack of holds...
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Also some fun sub-categories
Easiest move I keep falling off - perhaps it's that I only ever get there at the end of a session, perhaps it karma for getting bored on the top out on my third go and just sitting down on the mat, but I find matching the lip on Cromlech roof crack to be horrendous and unpleasant!
Hardest move I have tried - First move of Sway On... How...
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First move of pitch two of Suicide Wall at Bosigran
Is that the polished ex-peg crack / seam? I seem to remember being able to lank round that somehow.
Not sure! I only remember fear and a lack of holds...
Remember doing this years ago, but it was the first move of pitch 4 I couldn’t do at all!
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Think you are both thinking of the same thing. First pitch is easy ground, often soloed.
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Ah right! 10 years since I was on it, curious as to what that move would feel like now.
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14 years on for me, I think I'd find it nails!!