UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: bedrock on February 23, 2014, 11:45:28 am
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I've been climbing on/off 10yrs but last 3 yrs 4-5 times a week, mainly bouldering.
I'm 32,female, 5ft7, 58kg and can currently boulder outdoors 7a/7a+ in a couple of sessions.
My aim - boulder 8a.
My question - possible?
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Yes!
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Are you fit? If so don't bother 7a+ is more than enough, and if you can fit into some tight shorts I've got some shoes you could help me sell?
If you solely want to climb 8a you would be better picking a few you like and finding out about the moves on them, type of holds etc. basically doing your homework on them. Try them every so often to see how you're faring. Or the purists on here would say get good at everything
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Are you fit? If so don't bother 7a+ is more than enough, and if you can fit into some tight shorts I've got some shoes you could help me sell?
Don't feel intimidated bedrock. Dense is just a little antsy that he doesn't have enough models for his Printemps 2014 show yet.
(http://i59.tinypic.com/2dkct9c.jpg)
Perhaps the great fashionista speaks sense of a problem-specific attitude? Compare and contrast an 8a on one rock type to the next and then individual ability from one rock type to the next. Although I clearly understand the approach whereby you ought to become a master of your craft across all rock types, it's not always practicable given time constraints/weather etc.
Do you have a few in mind bedrock?
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I've been climbing on/off 10yrs but last 3 yrs 4-5 times a week, mainly bouldering.
I'm 32,female, 5ft7, 58kg and can currently boulder outdoors 7a/7a+ in a couple of sessions.
My aim - boulder 8a.
My question - possible?
If you have the time and motivation then yes. Just read up on training tips to avoid injury.
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At the risk of sounding/being rude, I'll be sincere:
why do you ask others?
It's obviously possible, as long as you start it now.
Every day you procrastinate makes it a little less possible and a little harder.
So, don't ask if it's possible. Just make it possible.
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It's definitely possible to fail trying, and you might even succeed. Either way you'll improve.
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I can't remember whether or not I have enough milk in my fridge to see me through tomorrow, or whether I should pop to the shops on the way home for a resupply. Can someone please tell me what to do, or at least offer a few platitudes to reassure me ("you can always use any excess milk to make rice pudding", "coffee is best black" that kind of thing).
or in other words..... only you know your own situation, and only you can do anything about it.
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::)
Coffee is best black.
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Oof - you guys are brutal! Someone fairly new to the forum (based on posts) gets this?
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Aye... I'm sorry for any hurt caused.... but if after 10ys of climbing, 3 years intensely, someone doesn't know their own capabilities well enough to render the opinions of remote strangers redundant, what hope is there? [That said, I admit I'm in a bad mood - post-holiday plans for tearing it up on rock ended up with lots of driving around and two sessions at the wall].
Slightly more positive / useful advice (I hope) - have you considered paying for a coaching session / holiday? A decent coach should be able to identify your weaknesses and advise on the best physical training strategies to work them - and also provide strategy tips for the siege process (at least as important for routes, possibly less so for boulders - but still important). The one-off cost might seems a lot but if this is a project you're prepared to devote years of your life to, it might be a sound investment (climbing is rare in that the elite are so approachable or cheaply bought - try getting cycling coaching from David Brailesford and Cav, or a football lesson from a Premier League player for around £100!). It might not get you to 8a, but it would provide reassurance that your efforts are in the right direction.
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It's definitely possible. Here's an article on my journey to 7C+ on two sessions a week, and that's when older, heavier and shorter than you!
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=5597 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=5597)
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Oof - you guys are brutal! Someone fairly new to the forum (based on posts) gets this?
+1 these responses are more like what I would expect from UKC not UKB! What's going on?
To the OP:
Let’s not forget that font 8A is really hard even these days, much harder than climbing 8a routes.
Personally I think it is theoretically possible, but it depends on a number of factors, including but not limited to:
1.) How dedicated you are, and whether you enjoy training (i.e. have a training mentality).
2.) How much time you have to dedicate to your goal.
3.) Your knowledge of training and how best to approach it - specific to you.
4.) Your susceptibility to injury - climbing 8A generally requires a lot of hard and intensive training. Whether or not your body can handle such training without injury is important. It seems to vary a lot from person to person - and depends on a various factors including things such as training history, genetics, ability to recover etc.
5.) Good sleep
6.) Good food
If you have all of the above then I think it's probably possible. But it takes a lot, so whilst it theoretically possible........
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Oof I'm offended if anyone thinks my post was harsh. I merely want to sell some shoes and the rest of my post can't be faulted. It's just right.
Personally if I was bedrock I'd be more insulted by other posts, there's a no blame culture here, where questions have been asked that were obviously answered in bedrocks opening statement. I'd think the replyee hadn't read a word I'd said.
1) how dedicated are you and do you enjoy training?
Answer: not very dedicated I've just bouldered 4-5 times a wk for the last 3 yrs, the other 2-3 days I can't be arsed
2) how much time do you have to dedicate to your goal?
Answer: Well apart from the 4-5 days a wk I boulder I've got 3 wks left
3) training etc
Answer: I'm a woman and I boulder 7a+ in a couple of sessions, I think I might not be too bad at training
4) injury etc
Answer: I've bouldered 4-5 days a wk for 3 yrs, do you think I get injured more than most?
5) lifestyle choice
6) lifestyle choice
As for nibile's reply he's Italian, but in a good way.
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:lol: :lol:
Is it possible for Dense to go from 4-5 days per week of being the go-to guy for witty forum comebacks, to stand-up comedian and panel show regular?
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there's a no blame culture here
Who's fault is that?
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My view - expanded on here (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,22779.msg419965.html#msg419965) - is that the significant improvements in standards tend to come with making changes at a social level, leaving your job, moving close to a world-class bouldering area, choosing to climb with people for whom 8A is fairly routine, for example.
Can and are you willing to make these kind of changes?
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I haven't read Duncan's link but the topics covered are all major factors. Pick your rock type carefully, for instance if you climb on grit it's worth noting that the only 2 British women to have climbed 8a in Britain, both of whom are world class climbers with probably upwards of 40 8a's or harder have only done one 8a each on grit. As far as I'm aware both statements are correct. You will prob have to go farther afield for good projects, be it another country unless you like lime.
You will have to climb to your strengths obviously. So if the crowd you climb with all like doing slabby problems and you like overhanging monos then you'll have to get new friends. If they like sitting around at a crag having a brew chatting for hours you'll have to get new friends.
If you work you will probably have to give up your job. Everyone seems to be doing it so don't worry.
What grade does your boyfriend climb? If you've not got one get one! Who else's shoulder are you going to cry on when you could do the problem last Tuesday but you can't do it today? If you've got one already you will have to go higher up the food chain. I'd say a 7c climber first for the groundwork then as you get better change him out for at least an 8a+ climber.
That's got most of the base's covered I think.
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OK so after double checking this is UKB and not UKC....
What a great (and random) set of replies. Basically I need to:
1. get rid of the boyfriend (I climb better than him) and find one that climbs harder
2. purchase hot pants and sports bra (this will make achieving point 1 easier)
3. avoid grit (damn it - had my eye on The Joker. Can hang off the start holds at least :))
4. believe I can do it
5. train :weakbench:
I suppose my question really was is 8a achievable for the serious but 'hobby' female climber? The consensus seems to be it is better to try and fail than not try at all....
I'm about to start a PhD in Edinburgh so will have more time than ever to dedicate to training (currently have a hefty OOH rota which affects time being able to spend projecting/training).
Watch this space I guess... :popcorn:
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You will prob have to go farther afield for good projects, be it another country unless you like lime.
Are there only 2 rock types in the whole of the UK? Unless you know where this person lives?
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I'm about to start a PhD in Edinburgh
Kind of answers my earlier post - so chose your poison; either something on Northumberland Sandstone, or Dumbarton Rock. Find one that suits your abilites and seige it.
I suppose my question really was is 8a achievable for the serious but 'hobby' female climber?
I'm sure worldwide there are dozens who have, no reason why you cant?
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If you can hang the holds on the joker but only climb 7a+ then I'd target your training at getting better at climbing rather than getting strong!
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OK so after double checking this is UKB and not UKC....
What a great (and random) set of replies. Basically I need to:
1. get rid of the boyfriend (I climb better than him) and find one that climbs harder
2. purchase hot pants and sports bra (this will make achieving point 1 easier)
3. avoid grit (damn it - had my eye on The Joker. Can hang off the start holds at least :))
4. believe I can do it
5. train :weakbench:
I suppose my question really was is 8a achievable for the serious but 'hobby' female climber? The consensus seems to be it is better to try and fail than not try at all....
I'm about to start a PhD in Edinburgh so will have more time than ever to dedicate to training (currently have a hefty OOH rota which affects time being able to spend projecting/training).
Watch this space I guess... :popcorn:
Good post. You can do everything you can to maximise your potential and if that potential allows you to climb 8A then it is possible. The only thing that is outside your control is your bodies genetic response to training and to smaller extent injury (which is usually avoidable). Im sure there is a good hard bouldering scene at Dumbarton that you can plug into. Also 7 day a week training is counter productive for strength training for anyone other than world class climbers and even a lot of them focus on quality rather than quantity (notably Jan Hojer)
It is quite likely that burl will be a weaker point (especially if you can hang the Joker holds) so upper body / pull-up training will be a useful thing to focus on.
And obviously ditch your loser boyfriend ;)
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If you're Edinburgh-based you're sorted. Are Purely Belter and The Crack still both in the guide at 8A?
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If you're Edinburgh-based you're sorted. Are Purely Belter and The Crack still both in the guide at 8A?
Yes, but Purely Belter is not considered 8a by everyone I have asked, seems to range from 7b+ - 7c+. The crack seems to be more like 7c+ (I think it was upgraded in the current guide but it was always considered 7c+).
To the OP: I think that its worth a good go at! Just don't try and rush too much, there's no shortcuts. Sounds like working class might be suit you (sounds like you've got strong fingers!). It's 8a+ in the guide mind, but worth a play.
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My view - expanded on here (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,22779.msg419965.html#msg419965) - is that the significant improvements in standards tend to come with making changes at a social level, leaving your job, moving close to a world-class bouldering area, choosing to climb with people for whom 8A is fairly routine, for example.
Can and are you willing to make these kind of changes?
Basically, just move to Lancashire
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Chris I was basing my assumption that bedrock was near grit, I was thinking of dumby or wales when I wrote "another country". Not that dumbys a country. I didn't mention Northumberland since people always go on about purely belter and the crack, which are good standard 7c's by most accounts.
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Maybe 7C would be a better goal to aim for initially? It would be very easy to get disheartened if you set the goal as high as 8A with a current base level of 7A+.
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I don't know if it is a realistic goal but I think if you live in Edinburgh Dumby is a great place to go through the grades up to 8a (and if you can hang the starting holds of the joker then it should suit you), lots of basic problems which you can whittle away at and just enough at each grade so you can consolidate a bit too.
If you want to climb 8a on grit, stick to Yorkshire, far more quality, basic 8as than in the peak.
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choosing to climb with people for whom 8A is fairly routine, for example.
If you're in Edinburgh Alien Rock 2 is (¿was?) a pretty decent meet place to syked folk keen to train, push grades and share lift the Dumby/the County. Must have been more than a handful operating >= 8A too; not so sure about just now.
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I have finished one 8A. It took me months of trying two or three times a week. I just tried each move, worked out my weaknesses in each context and practiced similar moves (ish) on the wall and hunted around for similar but easier problems.
This lead to a general improvement in my overall climbing and lead me to keep trying (and failing) at many other hard problems. I think (hope?) if I had been able to continue to dedicate the amount of time I had then, even at my advanced age I would have been able to at least try a few dream problems.
I don't understand why anyone would not try?
Is there any embarrassment at failing?
Does it matter?
Only to you and you decide how much.
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If you're in Edinburgh Alien Rock 2 is (¿was?) a pretty decent meet place to syked folk keen to train, push grades and share lift the Dumby/the County. Must have been more than a handful operating >= 8A too; not so sure about just now.
And Rodma :)
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With respect to moving, quitting job and boyfriend, finding a psyched bunch of uberwads, my experience is completely different. I climbed my first 8a at 35, and even though I was coming from a slightly higher bouldering level than 7a/+, I had a job, a non climbing girlfriend, a non existing climbing scene, one hour drives to the boulders and no climbing walls, just a fingerboard and a crappy campusboard.
Briefly, it will be hard, very hard, but probably you don't need to build your life around it.
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And Rodma :)
He must be in the region of 5ft7 and 58kg too
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The crack seems to be more like 7c+ (I think it was upgraded in the current guide but it was always considered 7c+).
If it was in the Peak it would 7B+, 7c tops, though I know folk who'd say it was more like 7B.
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With respect to moving, quitting job and boyfriend, finding a psyched bunch of uberwads, my experience is completely different. I climbed my first 8a at 35, and even though I was coming from a slightly higher bouldering level than 7a/+, I had a job, a non climbing girlfriend, a non existing climbing scene, one hour drives to the boulders and no climbing walls, just a fingerboard and a crappy campusboard.
Briefly, it will be hard, very hard, but probably you don't need to build your life around it.
Any tips on how you did it?
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With respect to moving, quitting job and boyfriend, finding a psyched bunch of uberwads, my experience is completely different. I climbed my first 8a at 35, and even though I was coming from a slightly higher bouldering level than 7a/+, I had a job, a non climbing girlfriend, a non existing climbing scene, one hour drives to the boulders and no climbing walls, just a fingerboard and a crappy campusboard.
Briefly, it will be hard, very hard, but probably you don't need to build your life around it.
Any tips on how you did it?
GET PSYCHED!!!!!!!!
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I was quite psyched indeed.
I've always been a great fan of training and commitment, so for me it came very natural, but of course it was hard (and boring).
For or five sessions a week, just on a fingerboard and a home made campusboard is not particularly fun, no matter how loud you play "The Real Thing" soundtrack...
Somehow things worked. I was following a training plan made by a professional trainer.
And I was nowhere as strong as I am now/was a few years ago.
Of course I chose a problem that played to my strengths: crimpy roof.
And of course after my first 8a I went back to normal service, it took me a while to do another one.
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I've been climbing on/off 10yrs but last 3 yrs 4-5 times a week, mainly bouldering.
I'm 32,female, 5ft7, 58kg and can currently boulder outdoors 7a/7a+ in a couple of sessions.
My aim - boulder 8a.
My question - possible?
Maybe. Why not just set yourself the goal of claimbing as hard as you can, that way if you 'only' manage 7c+ you'll still be happy.
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It took me about 2-3 years to get from 7A/7A+ to 7C. I did this about a year ago and I'm 44...
I did this by being very focused on the problems I tried - I would try a few likely candidates at the grade I was going for and then focus on the ones that I felt closest to (ie no complete shutdown move) and that I felt I could feasibly work over a period of time. And the quality/feel of the problem meant alot too.. anyway what I'm trying to say is that I focused on just one or two problems and then worked and worked and worked them until they went... For me this was along the lines of
Demon wall roof (7A+)
Underhand (7B+)
Keel (7C)
In between DWR and underhand I managed to get Seans Arete in a day (7B) and on the way to the Keel I managed a couple of 7B's (Boyager, Tracking - and one on Sandstone) but I was pretty focused on those target problems. I don't train much (I find it very boring) but have done some problem specific training (locking off on Left arm for underhand - lots of side core exercises for the Keel).
I've now got my eyes on 8A - and have Ironman at Trowbarrow earmarked as its a (soft) 8A extension to the 7C Vitruvian man - my logic being to work and do the 7C then do the extension. As it happens I'm no-where near the 7C :D and hurt my back up there last visit - so suspect that plan may be shelved... anyway, some insights into my modus operandi..
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I've been climbing on/off 10yrs but last 3 yrs 4-5 times a week, mainly bouldering.
I'm 32,female, 5ft7, 58kg and can currently boulder outdoors 7a/7a+ in a couple of sessions.
My aim - boulder 8a.
My question - possible?
Honestly - Maybe, but there's no way to know unless you commit yourself to it 100%.
For a couple of helpful pointers, I'd say take a very long view and set short term incremental goals.
For example:
2014 - your first 7B,
2015 - your first 7B+, 2 7B's
2016 - your first 7C, 2 7B+'s, and 5 7B's
2017 - your first 7C+, 2 7C's, etc....
2018 - 8A!
Also, for your first of each grade find a local problem that inspries you. It will help with your motivation and continued interest in the problem as you work it.
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Maybe, but there's no way to know unless you commit yourself to it 100%.
With respect to moving, quitting job and boyfriend, finding a psyched bunch of uberwads, my experience is completely different. I climbed my first 8a at 35, and even though I was coming from a slightly higher bouldering level than 7a/+, I had a job, a non climbing girlfriend, a non existing climbing scene, one hour drives to the boulders and no climbing walls, just a fingerboard and a crappy campusboard.
Briefly, it will be hard, very hard, but probably you don't need to build your life around it.
As Nibile said I am not sure 100% commitment is what is required, training (bouldering indoors in a non-structured way) two to three days in the week, doing some other cardio and trying to get out at the weekend has been enough for me, but everyone differs obviously
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You boulderers are so lazy :ras:
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Maybe, but there's no way to know unless you commit yourself to it 100%.
With respect to moving, quitting job and boyfriend, finding a psyched bunch of uberwads, my experience is completely different. I climbed my first 8a at 35, and even though I was coming from a slightly higher bouldering level than 7a/+, I had a job, a non climbing girlfriend, a non existing climbing scene, one hour drives to the boulders and no climbing walls, just a fingerboard and a crappy campusboard.
Briefly, it will be hard, very hard, but probably you don't need to build your life around it.
As Nibile said I am not sure 100% commitment is what is required, training (bouldering indoors in a non-structured way) two to three days in the week, doing some other cardio and trying to get out at the weekend has been enough for me, but everyone differs obviously
Nib's level of commitment is at about 1000% of what a normal person considers 100%, so when he says it will be very hard, I find most people don't have the level of commitment to try that hard. Maybe I'm too harsh on others, but that's what I see. I bet Nibs has a better diet, watches less TV, and is generally more disciplined than 99% of climbers. Committing 100% doesn't mean you have to move. It does mean that you have to set priorities and climbing/training should be in the top 3. TV, Movies, Nights out on the town, etc. all take a back seat. That doesn't mean never, it does mean if you have to choose, you know which wins.
As far as your experience in getting to 8A, two things- #1 that's rare. #2 the equivalent for males would be 8B/+. What would it take for you to get there? Or for Nibs for that matter? (don't know if he has or not)
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As far as your experience in getting to 8A, two things- #1 that's rare. #2 the equivalent for males would be 8B/+. What would it take for you to get there? Or for Nibs for that matter? (don't know if he has or not)
Palmer is already there!
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Then he's a mutant :whistle:
I forget how many wicked strong guys are on this forum......
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But I bet Tim didn't get there training 2-3 days a wk, Tim? Yes he has the ability to do that now since he's been climbing at that level there or thereabouts for so long but I really can't see that type of training got him there.
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Yes, no word of a lie, plus a session outdoors, at the most. But I also keep reasonably fit. But I think my indoor sessions are of better quality than most people's despite lacking structure
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If you're in Edinburgh Alien Rock 2 is (¿was?) a pretty decent meet place to syked folk keen to train, push grades and share lift the Dumby/the County. Must have been more than a handful operating >= 8A too; not so sure about just now.
And Rodma :)
Hahaha
Quite right, there are about tenish (actually probably more)guys operating around the 8a mark, a bunch of Poseurs, has beens and never has beens, all climbing at alien 2. Some of the above list are actually just the same people
Even Dr Tim pops back in occasionally.
Being surrounded by strong ish people definitely changes your perception of what is normal.
I'm about the same height and weight as you as someone pointed out, but I'd expect that we Will be built a little differently :)
Other people's suggestions of styles/venues for problems have been Good so no need for any further input from a grumpy never-was.
Good luck
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I very nearly said but Tim probably will have done this, damn. There are a few people out there that are the exception to the rule but most people recognise their freakish talent pretty soon.
Like beadle on the other hand we have the jap woman who did carthasis(?) 8b+ who had no previous decent, comparative, ticks under her belt. The same with the guy that repeated tonino 78 8c with his previous best being the stand start at 8a+. Both these problems were obviously done out of sheer bloodymindedness and a war of attrition.
I think what I'm trying to say is nobody has a clue what they're talking about when it comes to the willpower of another person, most of all me.
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Yes, no word of a lie, plus a session outdoors, at the most. But I also keep reasonably fit. But I think my indoor sessions are of better quality than most people's despite lacking structure
I almost posted something about your sessions by saying that some people accidentally get the quantity, quality and level of effort required in order to improve, just right.
I've never been able to do that on the plastic problems and only ever get good through campusing and weights.
Tim is a bit special ;)
:D
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Keep us posted on progress btw, be interested to hear how you get on.
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Tim is a bit special ;)
Only in the head.
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But I think my indoor sessions are of better quality than most people's despite lacking structure
Come on Tim, spill the beans. What do you differently to the rest of us mortals?
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Sasquatch, thank you.
To be more precise, if it's true that I climbed my first 8a just on fingerboarding and campusing, the following progress was made possible by a strong diet of board climbing. My home board, especially, made me progress more, more rapidly and more targeted to my goals (the Beastmaker).
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Thanks for all the replies - its been interesting getting everyone's opinion on it.
Its going to take a hell of a lot of training, but I reckon most people can train to do 1 pretty hard boulder. I guess what separates the Shauna Coxsey's and Mina's from the rest of the population is a combination of talent, genetics and psychology. Learning how to train appropriately and learning how to project a problem are two things I'm definitely going to have to learn.
Got the problem pyramid all drawn out so it all starts here!
Thanks all!
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Good luck! Let us know how it goes.
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Good luck! Let us know how it goes.
+1
Start a blog - you could do it here (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/board,56.0.html) if you like.
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I'd say if your climbing 4-5 times a week and only boulder 7A then the quality of your sessions isn't good enough. Find people who are far stronger than yourself and see what they do. I'm sure you will soon realise as I did that they always do that extra problem or that extra set of leg raises. Your obviously very dedicated and that's the most important attribute to have, along with determination but your better off only doing three really good sessions a week than 5 half hearted ones where you just turn up for the sake of it.