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the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Alex Ekins on September 18, 2011, 06:02:20 pm

Title: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: Alex Ekins on September 18, 2011, 06:02:20 pm: I'm sure most of you know but Tom Randall, Pete Whittaker and myself have now arrived in the USA..More info here... http://alexekins.co.uk/category/blog/ (http://alexekins.co.uk/category/blog/)
and more news to follow very soon.
Cheers
Alex
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: r-man on September 18, 2011, 07:50:29 pm: Shouldn't this be in the how to build a woody thread? ;)

http://alexekins.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/Wide_Boyz_Cellar-04-950x1425.jpg (http://alexekins.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/Wide_Boyz_Cellar-04-950x1425.jpg)
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: Alex Ekins on September 21, 2011, 09:24:58 pm: Latest news here - http://alexekins.co.uk/wide-boyz-in-vedauwoo-part-two/ (http://alexekins.co.uk/wide-boyz-in-vedauwoo-part-two/)
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: Paul B on September 21, 2011, 09:49:52 pm: why not add your blog to the pile rather than manually behaving like an RSS feed?
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: lagerstarfish on September 21, 2011, 10:34:40 pm: Doing things manually is important. It's what separates us from the animals.
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: shark on September 21, 2011, 11:24:08 pm: Quote from: lagerstarfish on September 21, 2011, 10:34:40 pm
Doing things manually is important. It's what separates us from the animals.

and machines
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: robertostallioni on September 21, 2011, 11:31:21 pm: Quote from: lagerstarfish on September 21, 2011, 10:34:40 pm
Doing things manually is important. It's what separates us from the animals.

Unless you're desperate.
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: lagerstarfish on September 21, 2011, 11:34:24 pm: Onanism wins hands down over the alternatives
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: robertostallioni on September 21, 2011, 11:36:23 pm: Thats easy for ewe to say.
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: robertostallioni on September 21, 2011, 11:42:55 pm: Tommy, can we have a move dictionary on the blog please. I haven't a clue what an invert pivot-to-chicken-wing is. Are you just sat in your bedroom in Sheff making this shit up? Does "Pete" really exist?
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: Tommy on September 24, 2011, 07:34:07 pm: Stallion, I couldn't even begin to try and explain that shit to you over the internet. We're best off meeting in your shed with a Jamaican Schlong and 2 tubs of crunchy peanut butter. Then, you'd really understand...

Hope you're (and the Drewski too) doing well

Tom
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: Alex Ekins on September 24, 2011, 08:59:34 pm: The Wide Boyz Vedauwoo hit list is almost complete - News here - http://alexekins.co.uk/wide-boyz-in-vedauwoo-part-three/ (http://alexekins.co.uk/wide-boyz-in-vedauwoo-part-three/)
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: Alex Ekins on September 26, 2011, 08:59:22 pm: Pete Whittaker On-sights Lucille at Vedauwoo - http://alexekins.co.uk/pete-whittaker-on-sights-lucille/ (http://alexekins.co.uk/pete-whittaker-on-sights-lucille/)
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: csurfleet on September 27, 2011, 08:21:03 am: That looks 'orrible - good work! :2thumbsup:
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: SA Chris on September 27, 2011, 08:30:40 am: Looks awful, better him than me.
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: Drew on September 27, 2011, 10:02:53 am: I saw that on your blog. Waddage. Did Tommy go for the lead after?
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: tomtom on September 27, 2011, 10:14:54 am: Keep up the posts Alex, Its good to follow from here..
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: chillax on September 27, 2011, 10:16:22 am: Funny how everyone seems to make the same face there...

(http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h115/grugc/August2011TheRoadtoLucille119.jpg)

(http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h115/grugc/191567_29129_XL1.jpg)

Excellent effort :strongbench:
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: Johnny Brown on September 27, 2011, 10:48:13 am: Really, really impressive effort from the boys. Yosemite next, they'll piss up Freerider?
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: chillax on September 27, 2011, 10:58:47 am: Don't think Yosemite is on the itinerary for them from what I've read (Tommy's been there 10 times apparently). And stuff Freerider......full free ascent of Excalibur!
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: jwi on September 27, 2011, 11:23:51 am: Quote from: chillax on September 27, 2011, 10:58:47 am
....full free ascent of Excalibur!

That would be something! El Cap's most feared route?
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: Tom de Gay on September 27, 2011, 11:50:55 am: (http://www.widefetish.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=2098&g2_serialNumber=2)

Photo: James Beissel (http://www.widefetish.com/gallery/main.php?g2_itemId=2097&g2_GALLERYSID=bad4890e2b5edd47ad63ecfad44f3a67)
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: SA Chris on September 27, 2011, 12:06:59 pm: Our work filter doesn't like the f*tish word in that!
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: Fiend on September 28, 2011, 10:23:10 am: To be fair it is pretty obscene!
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: Tommy on September 29, 2011, 04:32:27 pm: Cheers for all the support guys!!! We're flippin' loving it out here!!!

More Wide than you can shake a stick at and more hard grunting than you can find in my cellar. I'm writing a bit of a report for UKC, so hopefully some more details there.

So far we've both done everything we've tried (either onsight, flash or some a couple hours work) and looking forward to Trench Warfare and desert next.

Personal message to Shark: GOOD WORK on the Cabin Oak Link. Hope all's well :thumbsup:
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: SA Chris on September 29, 2011, 07:32:17 pm: Assume you will be in the crack house too. If a bird can climbit it can't be that hard :)
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: Alex Ekins on September 29, 2011, 08:23:04 pm: Coffee with Bob Scarpelli, the List and Goodbye to Vedauwoo
http://alexekins.co.uk/coffee-with-bob-scarpelli-the-list-and-goodbye-to-vedauwoo/ (http://alexekins.co.uk/coffee-with-bob-scarpelli-the-list-and-goodbye-to-vedauwoo/)
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: T_B on September 29, 2011, 08:50:15 pm: Trench Warfare and Indian Creek await.

Looks delightful Trench Warfare Off Width (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Ok0tstkS2I&feature=related#)

And Belly full of bad berries presumably?

Alex Honnold sending in Indian Creek, Utah (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M2dIZt4FCeE&feature=related#ws)
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: grumpycrumpy on September 30, 2011, 08:56:08 pm: I kept thinking that the Trench Warfare one was an extended shampoo ad ........ Much respect to anyone who wants to put their body that much pain to get a tick though :bow: ........
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: Alex Ekins on October 01, 2011, 04:37:10 pm: Can you spot the typo in the list? http://alexekins.co.uk/coffee-with-bob-scarpelli-the-list-and-goodbye-to-vedauwoo/ (http://alexekins.co.uk/coffee-with-bob-scarpelli-the-list-and-goodbye-to-vedauwoo/)
Title: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: Alex Ekins on October 02, 2011, 12:29:21 am: Tom Randall Solos Trench Warfare - http://alexekins.co.uk/tom-randall-solos-trench-warfare/ (http://alexekins.co.uk/tom-randall-solos-trench-warfare/)
Title: Re: Tom Randall Solos Trench Warfare
Post by: Plattsy on October 02, 2011, 12:45:21 am: These guys need to change dealer cos obviously they need better crack‽ :bow:
Title: Re: Tom Randall Solos Trench Warfare
Post by: Slide on October 02, 2011, 12:26:29 pm: :beer2: Bonkers
Title: Re: Tom Randall Solos Trench Warfare
Post by: SA Chris on October 02, 2011, 05:41:43 pm: Watching the other vid of someone doing it I thought it looked paddable, but doing it without?
Title: Re: Tom Randall Solos Trench Warfare
Post by: metal arms on October 03, 2011, 10:16:09 am: :bow:
Title: Re: Tom Randall Solos Trench Warfare
Post by: GCW on October 03, 2011, 10:35:45 am: That just looks horrendous :sick:

Trench Warfare Off Width (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Ok0tstkS2I#)
Title: Re: Tom Randall Solos Trench Warfare
Post by: andy_e on October 03, 2011, 10:41:37 am: I had wondered why L'oreal man had bothered with a rope at all.
Title: Re: Tom Randall Solos Trench Warfare
Post by: SA Chris on October 03, 2011, 01:08:20 pm: It's clearly Timotei. And 4:20 & 4:50 footdab.
Title: Re: Tom Randall Solos Trench Warfare
Post by: robertostallioni on October 03, 2011, 02:42:51 pm: Quote from: SA Chris on October 03, 2011, 01:08:20 pm
It's clearly Tim O'tei.

The Irish Craic climber?
Title: Re: Tom Randall Solos Trench Warfare
Post by: SA Chris on October 03, 2011, 02:51:29 pm: To me sure.

I made a bet with myself that someone would come up with that quip or something similar. I won a banana.
Title: Re: Tom Randall Solos Trench Warfare
Post by: robertostallioni on October 03, 2011, 02:54:07 pm: You cross it in....
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9ydjwTo5HAY/Thppx2HuTxI/AAAAAAAAAEw/WI-0SQ499d4/s1600/mediaManager.jpg)
Title: Re: Tom Randall Solos Trench Warfare
Post by: SA Chris on October 03, 2011, 03:21:24 pm: All you had to do was give it the eyebrows.
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: Grubes on October 07, 2011, 07:58:32 am: wild country just tweeted century crack fell on the first day to both pete and tom .. supposedly the hardest off width in the world
:2thumbsup: :bow: :great: and a little bit :sick:
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: remus on October 07, 2011, 08:13:58 am: http://alexekins.co.uk/the-hardest-offwidth-in-the-world/ (http://alexekins.co.uk/the-hardest-offwidth-in-the-world/)

Outrageous.
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: Slide on October 07, 2011, 08:47:56 am: :w00t:
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: duncan on October 07, 2011, 08:53:51 am: Wow

Picture of Stevie Haston attempting it on his blog (http://steviehaston.blogspot.com/)
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: SA Chris on October 07, 2011, 08:54:06 am: Oh my sack, that looks amazing.
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: slackline on October 07, 2011, 09:10:25 am: :blink: :clap2: :clap2: :clap2:
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: tomtom on October 07, 2011, 09:23:49 am: Thats increedible. Superb job gents...
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: Fiend on October 07, 2011, 09:57:34 am: Brilliant stuff. I was pretty sure there was some bigger ulterior motive for their US trip than bumbling around on the usual established routes ;)

I remember reading haston's OTE article about this, about it chewing up and spitting out "silly climbers" - you guys are definitely reaping the rewards of your efforts.
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: cofe on October 07, 2011, 10:06:59 am: wow.
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: T_B on October 07, 2011, 10:10:20 am: OMG! :beer2:
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: csurfleet on October 07, 2011, 10:18:29 am: 'ukin hell... :jaw:
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 07, 2011, 10:23:25 am: Amazing.
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: Falling Down on October 07, 2011, 10:31:25 am: Amazing achievement. Wow!
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: cofe on October 07, 2011, 10:33:06 am: I wonder if when they booked The Riot Act out of the library they'd find it such a good read when they got to the States? They'll be flying home early at this rate.
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: GraemeA on October 07, 2011, 10:40:13 am: There aren't many roof cracks that are visible from space but this one is

http://maps.google.com/?ie=UTF8&ll=38.289537,-109.830725&spn=0.001356,0.002527&t=h&z=19 (http://maps.google.com/?ie=UTF8&ll=38.289537,-109.830725&spn=0.001356,0.002527&t=h&z=19)

Nice work boys. Hope Crusher is looking after you well.
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: SA Chris on October 07, 2011, 11:24:26 am: Even now, crackwads across the US are using cloaking technology to hide their projects!
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: tomtom on October 07, 2011, 11:32:49 am: Quote from: SA Chris on October 07, 2011, 11:24:26 am
Even now, crackwads across the US are using cloaking technology to hide their projects!

Some thick bush is a good way to hide a crack...
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: Bonjoy on October 07, 2011, 01:00:50 pm: :bow: Amazing!
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: Eddies on October 07, 2011, 01:13:31 pm: Cracking show chaps :icon_beerchug:
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: SA Chris on October 07, 2011, 01:16:43 pm: Bet those pics are going to sell well to the US Magazine Alex. Luvly earner!
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: IanP on October 07, 2011, 01:28:25 pm: Awesome stuff - this is turning into the biggest brits abroad crushing fest since the days of Ben and Jerry.

How much longer are they over there? What's left on the ticklist?
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: duncan on October 07, 2011, 01:29:48 pm: Quote from: SA Chris on October 07, 2011, 01:16:43 pm
Bet those pics are going to sell well to the US Magazine Alex. Luvly earner!

I hope so. I thought the picture of Crusher was great.

It is an ancient Mariner,
And he stoppeth one of three.
`By thy long grey beard and glittering eye,
Now wherefore stopp'st thou me?
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 07, 2011, 01:33:30 pm: British standards (of crack climbing) obviously not shit..... :worms:
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: Fiend on October 07, 2011, 01:39:33 pm: ...if you spend thousands of hours training specifically for them.

Hmmm. So why doesn't that apply for british training culture in general??

Maybe indoor cellars are better for cracks then they are for euro sport climbs ;)
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 07, 2011, 01:46:46 pm: Quote from: Fiend on October 07, 2011, 01:39:33 pm

Maybe indoor cellars are better for cracks then they are for euro sport climbs ;)

.....better than pull ups anyway.
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: Rocksteady on October 07, 2011, 04:32:23 pm: Heroes. Good work. Visit and crush. Or at least thrutch with the best of them. :weakbench:
Title: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: Alex Ekins on October 07, 2011, 05:49:55 pm: Wide Boyz Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker Climb 1st Ascent 'Century Crack' in Canyonlands - http://alexekins.co.uk/the-hardest-offwidth-in-the-world/ (http://alexekins.co.uk/the-hardest-offwidth-in-the-world/)
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: willackers on October 07, 2011, 06:37:44 pm: That is awesome! Good effort! :bow:
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: cheque on October 07, 2011, 07:25:39 pm: Crikey! :w00t: Maximum waddage.

(http://alexekins.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/IMG_05141.jpg)

One of the things I love about rock climbing is that an image such as the above can represent the state of the art.
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: andyd on October 07, 2011, 07:39:05 pm: Beasts. Well done both of you. Rather you than me!
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: dave on October 07, 2011, 07:42:22 pm: Looks piss......,NOT. Effort.
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: Wood FT on October 07, 2011, 10:22:40 pm: Impressive line crack fiends :strongbench:
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: lagerstarfish on October 07, 2011, 10:32:39 pm: I am disappointed that they didn't go back to calling it Chocolate Starfish

that is exactly what it looks like

it also looks a bit like the judge defecating in the film The Wall
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: remus on October 07, 2011, 11:01:05 pm: Some good pics on this thread: http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1630348/UK-Wide-Boyz-Climb-Century-Crack-in-Canyonlands (http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1630348/UK-Wide-Boyz-Climb-Century-Crack-in-Canyonlands)

Gives a good sense of the size of the beast.
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: ferret on October 08, 2011, 06:14:58 am: Quote
No thumbs-up from Stevie H though ...

"I leave it to you to try and understand the absurd comment that it is ok to leave this gear in, and not carry it. Trad climbing is absurd nowadays, the climbers are good but their approach is silly. Ciao"

What a complete load of bollocks,
Anybody remember Greenspit?

I can't imagine the logisitics of removing the gear from this route everytime, especially when you only have 2 days to climb it. It seems to me that leaving the gear in is much more practical and makes for a more pleasant experience overall (ie not spending half your time epicing around under a roof trying to get your gear back to satisfy somebody elses ethics)

I also imagine that the weight of the gear could easily be negated by trailing a second rope, carrying half the gear to begin with and then hauling the other half from one of the numerous bat-hang positions

FUCK the haters
MAXIMUM waddage to the WIDE BOYZ
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: Bonjoy on October 08, 2011, 08:51:54 am: Sour grapes, from Stevie Haston, what a surprise! That guy's got a whole vineyard full
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: andyd on October 08, 2011, 10:17:02 am: So to conclude; the only way to do this route is to do it with a cumbersome rack weighing half your body weight. I don't know about anyone else, but I climb for fun. If a climb has to be done in a miserable, laborious, way, then there's no point in doing it. This is a fine effort. Stevie used to be a hero for me in the 90's and I looked to his articles for advice. If I may be so bold to offer some back, then I'd say, sometimes it's best to just smile and say well done.
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: shark on October 08, 2011, 01:33:15 pm: Ace photo on supertopo here (http://www.supertopo.com/inc/photo_zoom.php?s=user_rating&v=2&o=DESC&ftr=&z=XL&t=0&dpid=Mjg4PT4_JSgi)
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: iwasmexican on October 08, 2011, 01:44:42 pm: stellar line
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: Danny on October 08, 2011, 02:05:03 pm: I can't help but admire their attitude, they're clearly totally psyched for horrendous grovel fests. Refreshingly mad.

I hope the grumblings of some bitter old man are small fish.

Brilliant.
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: Tommy on October 08, 2011, 04:20:38 pm: Hey, thanks for the psyche guys! :thumbsup:

We're slowly bashing away here flying the Sheffield/UK flag... loving the grovels and thrutches.

Just read that Stevie blog.... whoops, I've already sent him an email thanking him for his help on route/gear/approach beta for last 2 years. Oh well!

Anyway, it just to make you all feel better it's pissing it down here, just like in Sheffield and we'll probably look for some hovel of a cafe to hide in. ;)

See some of you in a month or so.

Tom
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: tomtom on October 08, 2011, 04:54:41 pm: Great job Tom, and we well done from Steve H seems markedly absent from his blog pages...
"Nowt so queer as folk" as they say here in Yorkscestershire.. :)

Keep up the good work and posts - its great to read and much apreciated.

TT
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: Footwork on October 08, 2011, 04:59:59 pm: Wicked stuff guys :thumbsup:
Title: Re: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker go wide in the USA
Post by: Duncan Disorderly on October 08, 2011, 11:06:42 pm: Massive respect... :strongbench:
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: lagerstarfish on October 09, 2011, 07:23:45 am: It was jolly nice of them to leave the place-gear-on-the-lead first ascent for Stevie H to do.

There's no shame in being called (by implication) lazy by Mr H.

~~Good~~ Great effort lads
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: grumpycrumpy on October 09, 2011, 08:51:07 am: Quote from: lagerstarfish on October 07, 2011, 10:32:39 pm
I am disappointed that they didn't go back to calling it Chocolate Starfish

Any relation Lagers ?
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: Muenchener on October 09, 2011, 08:55:13 am: I'm just trying to understand what the "problem" is here. Is their "sin" failing to flash the hardest & most spectacular crack climb in the world - heinous! - or the fact that they didn't clean their gear [how?] between attempts?

Amazing achievement in any case. The thought of it makes my blood run cold.
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: Grubes on October 09, 2011, 09:22:18 am: well if they really wanted a proper a ascent they should of driven a cherry picker to the canyon so they could remove the gear ...

Well done boyz, not back for another month can't wait to see what else they gets done.
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: dave on October 09, 2011, 09:35:25 am: Funny how a million pullups every day didn't get Stevie him up this route eh.
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: Muenchener on October 09, 2011, 11:36:41 am: Just googling around the general subject of offwidth specialists (oddly something that has never attracted my attention before), this Pamela Pack (http://www.climbing.com/photo/image/Winter%201011%20Gallery/burr040910-067.jpg) seems reasonably DF. Although also barking mad, obviously.
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: lagerstarfish on October 09, 2011, 12:18:29 pm: Quote from: grumpycrumpy on October 09, 2011, 08:51:07 am
Quote from: lagerstarfish on October 07, 2011, 10:32:39 pm
I am disappointed that they didn't go back to calling it Chocolate Starfish

Any relation Lagers ?

you calling me an arsehole?

fair point
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: lukeyboy on October 09, 2011, 07:20:17 pm: Quote from: Muenchener on October 09, 2011, 11:36:41 am
Just googling around the general subject of offwidth specialists (oddly something that has never attracted my attention before), this Pamela Pack (http://www.climbing.com/photo/image/Winter%201011%20Gallery/burr040910-067.jpg) seems reasonably DF. Although also barking mad, obviously.

DFBWGCC. Might be a bit slow paced...
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: remus on October 10, 2011, 10:24:51 am: Slow paced? i thought it was already over! (or maybe im thinking of DFBWG (grovel.))

More (reasonable) comment from Stevie H: http://steviehaston.blogspot.com/2011/10/century-crack-2-by-stevie-good-job.html (http://steviehaston.blogspot.com/2011/10/century-crack-2-by-stevie-good-job.html)
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 10, 2011, 11:02:17 am: I don't get it. Stevie originally said he thought the route was desperate, 9a etc.

Now he only failed on it because of his heroic eithical stance.

:-\

Quote from: dave on October 09, 2011, 09:35:25 am
Funny how a million pullups every day didn't get Stevie him up this route eh.

Quote from: Jaspersharpe on October 07, 2011, 01:46:46 pm
Quote from: Fiend on October 07, 2011, 01:39:33 pm

Maybe indoor cellars are better for cracks then they are for euro sport climbs ;)

.....better than pull ups anyway.

Anyway, I'm sure he'll be along soon to clear all this up.
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: chillax on October 10, 2011, 11:08:03 am: Because after all, its very important. Massive effort to the lads.
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: r-man on October 10, 2011, 12:19:38 pm: Nice idea by mike m on the super topo forum:

Quote from: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1630348&msg=1631753#msg1631753
Looks like you could do it by putting a bunch of logs across crack and then dropping cordage from the logs through the roof. Would eliminate the climbing around the gear factor.

If that's true, then carrying a rack with you for the onsight/super clean ascent would seem a ridiculous contrivance, since you can place the protection from the ground...
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: duncan on October 10, 2011, 12:40:59 pm: Quote from: r-man on October 10, 2011, 12:19:38 pm
Nice idea by mike m on the super topo forum:

Quote from: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1630348&msg=1631753#msg1631753
Looks like you could do it by putting a bunch of logs across crack and then dropping cordage from the logs through the roof. Would eliminate the climbing around the gear factor.

If that's true, then carrying a rack with you for the onsight/super clean ascent would seem a ridiculous contrivance, since you can place the protection from the ground...

Separate Reality used to be climbed this way (substitute hexes for logs).
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: chillax on October 10, 2011, 01:30:20 pm: Quote from: duncan on October 10, 2011, 12:40:59 pm
Quote from: r-man on October 10, 2011, 12:19:38 pm
Nice idea by mike m on the super topo forum:

Quote from: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1630348&msg=1631753#msg1631753
Looks like you could do it by putting a bunch of logs across crack and then dropping cordage from the logs through the roof. Would eliminate the climbing around the gear factor.

If that's true, then carrying a rack with you for the onsight/super clean ascent would seem a ridiculous contrivance, since you can place the protection from the ground...

Separate Reality used to be climbed this way (substitute hexes for logs).

The Roof on Inis Mor is climbed that way too, pre-protected from above.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=BO4YYCQmUBk (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BO4YYCQmUBk)
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: Doylo on October 10, 2011, 09:50:33 pm: There was always going to be sour grapes. Stevie called it 9a and the boys did it in 2 days
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: lagerstarfish on October 10, 2011, 09:55:26 pm: Quote from: r-man on October 10, 2011, 12:19:38 pm
Nice idea by mike m on the super topo forum:

Quote from: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1630348&msg=1631753#msg1631753
Looks like you could do it by putting a bunch of logs across crack and then dropping cordage from the logs through the roof. Would eliminate the climbing around the gear factor.

If that's true, then carrying a rack with you for the onsight/super clean ascent would seem a ridiculous contrivance, since you can place the protection from the ground...

I bet Stevie Haston or Chuck Norris could do it placing logs on the lead
Title: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: tomtom on October 10, 2011, 10:15:14 pm: Quote from: lagerstarfish on October 10, 2011, 09:55:26 pm
Quote from: r-man on October 10, 2011, 12:19:38 pm
Nice idea by mike m on the super topo forum:

Quote from: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1630348&msg=1631753#msg1631753
Looks like you could do it by putting a bunch of logs across crack and then dropping cordage from the logs through the roof. Would eliminate the climbing around the gear factor.

If that's true, then carrying a rack with you for the onsight/super clean ascent would seem a ridiculous contrivance, since you can place the protection from the ground...

I bet Stevie Haston or Chuck Norris could do it placing logs on the lead

That would be quite some caber, sorry caper.
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: SA Chris on October 11, 2011, 08:48:56 am: Poor. I wood have expected better from you.
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: BB on October 11, 2011, 09:13:18 am: Quote from: SA Chris on October 11, 2011, 08:48:56 am
Poor. I wood have expected better from you.

Yeah, that joke was log.
Title: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: tomtom on October 11, 2011, 09:16:53 am: Posting it went against the grain I was in knots about whether to or not, and now I feel like a right plank.
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: andy_e on October 11, 2011, 09:35:54 am: You son of a beech. I pine for a time when these puns blow away in the autumn breeze. We need to branch out from them.
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: Nibile on October 11, 2011, 09:37:02 am: I don't know anything about crack climbing (I never did it) and ethics (I am Italian), but I can comprehend Haston's thoughts. I only think that it's not very nice that he didn't congratulate with the boys for what is clearly a step forward, maybe towards a purer ascent placing gear, which is still up for grabs, so Haston can still do it.
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: tomtom on October 11, 2011, 09:49:23 am: Quote from: Nibile on October 11, 2011, 09:37:02 am
I only think that it's not very nice that he didn't congratulate with the boys for what is clearly a step forward,

Very well put Nibs, my thoughts exactly..
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: iwasmexican on October 11, 2011, 04:27:13 pm: Quote from: andi_e on October 11, 2011, 09:35:54 am
We need to branch out from them.

i concur, we should leaf these silly jokes alone
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: andy_e on October 11, 2011, 04:28:13 pm: I'm glad someone else twigged on the puns.
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: Muenchener on October 11, 2011, 05:13:10 pm: Quote from: Nibile on October 11, 2011, 09:37:02 am
I don't know anything about ... ethics (I am Italian)

Erm, excuse me but ....

I've been reading up on Val di Mello (chuffing) lately, and it seems to me that the locals there - Italian - have no problem at all with ~~voluntarily scaring oneself shitless~~ ethics.

See also: Dolomites.
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: slackline on October 11, 2011, 05:36:44 pm: Quote from: Muenchener on October 11, 2011, 05:13:10 pm
See also: Dolomites.

Where they will happily climb over you if they think you're going too slow (although to be fair this only happened once whilst we were on the first Sella Tower, and they were polite enough to wait whilst I reversed and found the correct way through the crux).
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: Nibile on October 11, 2011, 09:40:57 pm: Quote from: Muenchener on October 11, 2011, 05:13:10 pm
Quote from: Nibile on October 11, 2011, 09:37:02 am
I don't know anything about ... ethics (I am Italian)

Erm, excuse me but ....

I've been reading up on Val di Mello (chuffing) lately, and it seems to me that the locals there - Italian - have no problem at all with ~~voluntarily scaring oneself shitless~~ ethics.

See also: Dolomites.

;D fair enough!!!
I was only joking about a general lack of ethic principles in Italy in general, especially politics. it wasn't absolutely referred to climbing.
I didn't think anyone would have taken me seriously!!!
:bow:
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: iwasmexican on October 11, 2011, 11:29:04 pm: Quote from: andi_e on October 11, 2011, 04:28:13 pm
I'm glad someone else twigged on the puns.

glad yew appreciate it
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: ducko on October 11, 2011, 11:48:42 pm: good effort looks like a right good climb!
as far as the grade goes isnt it only a guideline? im sure its bloody hard whatever grade it gets!
Title: The Wide Boyz climb 'Gabriel'
Post by: Alex Ekins on October 12, 2011, 02:50:23 am: Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker climb 'Gabriel' - http://alexekins.co.uk/wideboyz-climb-gabriel/ (http://alexekins.co.uk/wideboyz-climb-gabriel/)
Title: Re: The Wide Boyz climb 'Gabriel'
Post by: Fiend on October 12, 2011, 10:30:02 am: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,18664.0.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,18664.0.html) :please:

I know how much you like linking your own site but there's already a topic or two for the Wide Action.
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: 220bpm on October 12, 2011, 12:55:43 pm: Pun-tastic work chaps.

Take a bough.

Not to mention incredible crack skillz from the boyz...pair of monsterz :)
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: Fiend on October 12, 2011, 04:15:33 pm: Can we merge OUT all the Dad-joke level puns please :D
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 12, 2011, 04:25:00 pm: I think I just got Myck Rian -ed! ;)
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: fried on October 12, 2011, 05:18:14 pm: Quote from: Fiend on October 12, 2011, 04:15:33 pm
Can we merge OUT all the Dad-joke level puns please :D

Oak a
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: grumpycrumpy on October 12, 2011, 06:44:23 pm: Quote from: fried on October 12, 2011, 05:18:14 pm
Quote from: Fiend on October 12, 2011, 04:15:33 pm
Can we merge OUT all the Dad-joke level puns please :D

Oak a
:spank: you deserve the birch for that one .......
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: Percy B on October 12, 2011, 09:04:06 pm: Aaah, that old Chestnut. These puns aren't making anybody more poplar, you know.
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: Nigel on October 12, 2011, 09:20:35 pm: This has gone fir enough. Can we start respecting our elders and spruce this thread up now?
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: SA Chris on October 12, 2011, 09:30:11 pm: It does need a bit of that sort of treetment.
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: chillax on October 12, 2011, 09:39:53 pm: I don't get all this pineing about the puns? Leaf it out and go back to congratulating the guys on their excellent work!

(p.s trying to find ones that haven't been used yet is turning into a right beech!)
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: wiain on October 12, 2011, 09:50:33 pm: Quote from: chillax on October 12, 2011, 09:39:53 pm

(p.s trying to find ones that haven't been used yet is turning into a right beech!)

I thought so too but then google was my friend. http://www.british-trees.com/treeguide/view_all_species.htm (http://www.british-trees.com/treeguide/view_all_species.htm) of course the words may turn to Ash in your mouth when you realise you have spoiled the pun-onsight. Wonder what else the boys have in their Box of tricks.
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: iwasmexican on October 13, 2011, 03:46:22 am: Quote from: chillax on October 12, 2011, 09:39:53 pm
(p.s trying to find ones that haven't been used yet is turning into a right beech!)

admittedly they are getting rather poor, they could do with some sprucing up
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 13, 2011, 08:39:55 am: Alder you guys must be on crack, willow yew just stop it. A dog wood show more respect than to branch off on such an important thread with these old chestnuts. Bay careful or Stevie walnut you.
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: tomtom on October 13, 2011, 09:13:42 am: I saw all of those coming...
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: Oldmanmatt on October 13, 2011, 09:21:48 am: Oh for Fuchias sake!
I mean, Holly carp, Cane you guys give it a rest!
Ivy just about had enough.
It's giving me the Creepers...
Do those two super heros deserve all this Brambling on...
Hearts of Oak, both of 'Elm!!!
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: tomtom on October 13, 2011, 09:39:59 am: Quote from: Oldmanmatt on October 13, 2011, 09:21:48 am
I mean, Holly carp, Cane you guys give it a rest!

I can smell something fishy going on with this thread...
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: Jaspersharpe on October 13, 2011, 09:53:17 am: Please don't go down that root.
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: fatboySlimfast on October 13, 2011, 03:51:49 pm: I trout anyone will stoop so roe as to go down that route and take the bait.
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: SA Chris on October 13, 2011, 03:57:51 pm: Oh cod, where will it fin ish.
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: chillax on October 13, 2011, 04:20:46 pm: This is getting eel-y off topic. I'm perched here cray-ving news about climbing offwidths and all I'm herring are these fishy puns.....
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: tomtom on October 13, 2011, 04:52:30 pm: I'm out of my depth on this one, i'll have to scale back my response as I'm skate-ing on thin ice.
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: andy_e on October 13, 2011, 08:02:49 pm: This is neither the time nor the plaice.
Title: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: Oldmanmatt on October 13, 2011, 08:17:08 pm: A serious Shark to the system...
Title: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: tomtom on October 13, 2011, 10:25:32 pm: I may need a sturgeon to fix my condition..
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: Tommy on October 14, 2011, 01:01:22 am: I don't know anything about fish, so all I will say is.....

Pete and I are having great time out here although feeling a little sapped... We are now heading to climb some roots in the more Poplar area of Indian Creek... possibly to Brush up on our gardening. Take it easy UKB
love from
Tom and Pete
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: Alex Ekins on October 16, 2011, 10:26:16 pm: Pete Whittaker flashes 'Belly Full Of Bad Berries' - http://alexekins.co.uk/pete-whittaker-flashes-belly-full-of-bad-berries/ (http://alexekins.co.uk/pete-whittaker-flashes-belly-full-of-bad-berries/)
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: andy_e on October 16, 2011, 10:43:16 pm: Trying hard! Effort.
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: shark on October 16, 2011, 10:47:38 pm: Quote from: Alex Ekins on October 16, 2011, 10:26:16 pm
Pete Whittaker flashes 'Belly Full Of Bad Berries' - http://alexekins.co.uk/pete-whittaker-flashes-belly-full-of-bad-berries/ (http://alexekins.co.uk/pete-whittaker-flashes-belly-full-of-bad-berries/)

Great route name, great images.

Amazing that the boyz can continuously do this stuff - is there a team masseur?
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: fatdoc on October 16, 2011, 11:44:55 pm: nah,

we're just old...

they be the new spawn
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: slackline on October 17, 2011, 11:17:35 am: Good work Team GB :bow:
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: Fiend on October 17, 2011, 11:29:53 am: Relentless radness!
Title: Re: Tom and Pete climb the world's hardest offwidth
Post by: tc on October 20, 2011, 07:38:36 pm: Quote from: Doylo on October 10, 2011, 09:50:33 pm
Stevie called it 9a...

Who told you that?
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: Doylo on October 20, 2011, 08:00:47 pm: Read it on the interweb pal.from an old magazine article apparently
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: tc on October 20, 2011, 09:06:46 pm: You've read an article in which Haston states that Century Crack is 9a?
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: Doylo on October 20, 2011, 09:22:01 pm: not sure about the article thing but i read the 9a thing here:
http://alexekins.co.uk/the-hardest-offwidth-in-the-world/ (http://alexekins.co.uk/the-hardest-offwidth-in-the-world/)
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: Stubbs on October 20, 2011, 09:23:23 pm: Quote
Some years later, Stevie Haston (a climbing partner of Crusher's) started the odyssey that Pete and I hoped to complete. With his partner Laurence Gouault he started work on freeing the 120ft roof crack and at the same time coming up with the working project title of 'Century Crack.' After a number of days attempting this line over successive trips, he'd still not found success, but was kind enough to write about his endeavours in On The Edge Magazine. Stevie talked of abs of steel, dodgy cams in sandy rock and of course immense levels of difficulty. His estimation on grade at the time was 9a or harder...

From here http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=64429 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=64429) doesn't say which issue of OTE though.
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: Doylo on October 20, 2011, 09:24:18 pm: ah there you go, on the interweb
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: Grubes on November 06, 2011, 09:19:18 am: not sure but it looks like the wideboyz have repeated century crack placing gear on lead .. (is this new news or have I missed some thing)

Here's a link to the new blog up http://wideboyz.blogspot.com/2011/11/century-crack-part-deux.html (http://wideboyz.blogspot.com/2011/11/century-crack-part-deux.html)
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: ian dunn on November 06, 2011, 11:26:53 am: Nice one boys, actions speak louder than words!!!! haha now shut up arm chair critics!! Oh you could have onsight soloed it well Tom and Pete have left you something to aspire too. Well done, see you when you get back.
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 06, 2011, 12:55:42 pm: Quote from: Grubes on November 06, 2011, 09:19:18 am
not sure but it looks like the wideboyz have repeated century crack placing gear on lead .. (is this new news or have I missed some thing)

Here's a link to the new blog up http://wideboyz.blogspot.com/2011/11/century-crack-part-deux.html (http://wideboyz.blogspot.com/2011/11/century-crack-part-deux.html)

(http://medicdiaries.com/files/2011/04/humblepie.png)
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: Alex Ekins on November 06, 2011, 02:42:37 pm: Yes they did. Pics here - http://alexekins.co.uk/the-wideboyz-return-to-century-crack/ (http://alexekins.co.uk/the-wideboyz-return-to-century-crack/)
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: Grubes on November 06, 2011, 07:00:48 pm: Quote from: Jaspersharpe on November 06, 2011, 12:55:42 pm
Quote from: Grubes on November 06, 2011, 09:19:18 am
not sure but it looks like the wideboyz have repeated century crack placing gear on lead .. (is this new news or have I missed some thing)

Here's a link to the new blog up http://wideboyz.blogspot.com/2011/11/century-crack-part-deux.html (http://wideboyz.blogspot.com/2011/11/century-crack-part-deux.html)

(http://medicdiaries.com/files/2011/04/humblepie.png)
not quite but still an attempt at it sort of .. maybe

-edit- forgot the link http://steviehaston.blogspot.com/2011/11/well-done-on-century-by-stevie-gozotan.html (http://steviehaston.blogspot.com/2011/11/well-done-on-century-by-stevie-gozotan.html)
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: jimmykay on November 06, 2011, 07:41:04 pm: Fucking yes. You boys are an inspiration!!! :great:
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: Wood FT on November 06, 2011, 08:39:21 pm: Shriker!
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: metal arms on November 06, 2011, 10:13:40 pm: Heroes :bow:
Title: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: tomtom on November 06, 2011, 10:15:56 pm: Dab! Back around... ;)

Great work gents..
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: SA Chris on November 07, 2011, 09:01:39 am: Quote
Century Crack is no harder placing gear on lead, than it was having it pre-placed.

Point proved. Well done wideboyz.
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: Rocksteady on November 07, 2011, 10:39:01 am: I love that they've done 95% of their ticklist with 2 weeks to go (opposite of any trip I've been on), and have enough time to go back and shut down the armchair criticism of their ascent of Century Crack. Just seeing the pictures of the positions they get into on these offwidths makes it apparent how ridiculously hard these climbs must be.
:strongbench:
Very impressive indeed.
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: Nibile on November 09, 2011, 06:03:25 pm: Stevie Haston's blog about Century Crack ascent placing gear on lead, reminded me about a small episode in Dostoevskij "Idiot".
during a party they play a game in which each one has to tell a bad action he's done. one of the characters tells a story that resembles a bad action, which finally serves a higher moral aim, and so in reality tells a very righteous action instead of a bad one.
his blog post gave me the impression that he dismisses the ascent as due to a "light rack" while literally praising the guys.
has anyone else had the same impression, or am I a paranoid who sees menaces and evil everywhere?
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: SA Chris on November 09, 2011, 06:36:23 pm: To continue the literal slant, I think you may be tilting at windmills.

I read it as saying light rack indeed, only being 8 cams?
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: Richie Crouch on November 09, 2011, 06:45:05 pm: I think Haston comes across as a bit of a bell end.
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: Nibile on November 09, 2011, 06:51:26 pm: well, talking about "light rack" after various blogs about "8 kg heavy racks", to me sounds as "you've done the route because you chose to carry less cams than I did".
but again, I see evil everywhere as of late. especially in myself.
Title: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: tomtom on November 09, 2011, 07:14:53 pm: Quote from: Richie Crouch on November 09, 2011, 06:45:05 pm
I think Haston comes across as a bit of a bell end.

I wouldn't disagree with you....
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: Paul B on November 09, 2011, 10:28:45 pm: Yeah, one of the blog entries seems somewhat hypocritical too. (please don't break my legs if you're reading this, they break by themselves easily enough).
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: SA Chris on November 10, 2011, 08:45:07 am: Quote from: Nibile on November 09, 2011, 06:51:26 pm
well, talking about "light rack" after various blogs about "8 kg heavy racks", to me sounds as "you've done the route because you chose to carry less cams than I did".
but again, I see evil everywhere as of late. especially in myself.

Well to be fair, they are carrying the weight of a pair of massive cojones instead of a massive rack.
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: Fultonius on November 10, 2011, 10:04:10 am: Quote
How the hell do they sit down, with balls THAT BIG?!
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: butters on November 10, 2011, 10:45:37 am: Quote from: Nibile on November 09, 2011, 06:51:26 pm
well, talking about "light rack" after various blogs about "8 kg heavy racks", to me sounds as "you've done the route because you chose to carry less cams than I did".

I think that is what is known as being damned with faint praise.
Title: Re: Sheffield Cowboys Go America (merged Wideboyz news)
Post by: Jaspersharpe on November 10, 2011, 11:22:05 am: (http://farm1.static.flickr.com/78/155733289_44299089e6.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/raymondyee/155733289/)