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the shizzle => chuffing => new routes => Topic started by: i_a_coops on May 15, 2018, 05:59:51 pm

Title: [Ansteys][Ali Bomaye][8b+/c]
Post by: i_a_coops on May 15, 2018, 05:59:51 pm
Ellis Butler-Barker has gone and done the left hand finish to the Cider Soak.

I've had a few sessions trying it myself and think it's a) flipping awesome and b) very harshly graded at 8b+...

https://youtu.be/z3IPz0MmOzA
Title: Re: [Ansteys][Ali Bomaye][8b+/c]
Post by: Wood FT on May 15, 2018, 07:15:19 pm
Ellis Butler-Barker has gone and done the left hand finish to the Cider Soak.

I've had a few sessions trying it myself and think it's a) flipping awesome and b) very harshly graded at 8b+...

https://youtu.be/z3IPz0MmOzA

Brilliant climbing, smooth as fuck!
Title: Re: [Ansteys][Ali Bomaye][8b+/c]
Post by: haydn jones on May 15, 2018, 07:18:38 pm
Yea that climbing style was mega then. Looked super smooth and strong. Climb looked amazing too!
Title: Re: [Ansteys][Ali Bomaye][8b+/c]
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on May 15, 2018, 08:18:58 pm
Yea that climbing style was mega then. Looked super smooth and strong. Climb looked amazing too!

Crap venue though Haydn.
Nothing for you there.
Don't bother.

Telling how much of a complete path he makes the meat of Cider Soak look.
Clearly a significant addition.
Nice vid.
Title: Re: [Ansteys][Ali Bomaye][8b+/c]
Post by: monkoffunk on May 15, 2018, 10:51:03 pm
Ellis Butler-Barker has gone and done the left hand finish to the Cider Soak.

And without a figure four! My condolences...
Title: Re: [Ansteys][Ali Bomaye][8b+/c]
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on May 15, 2018, 11:56:49 pm
Sounds as though the new guide is pretty much all set for printing now.

Reckon it's going to be ace.

 :punk: :thumbsup:
Title: Re: [Ansteys][Ali Bomaye][8c]
Post by: Kingy on May 16, 2018, 12:17:25 am
Nice work Ellis! This must have been a long standing project for a reason. Good video of the ascent too. I see the proposed grade is now 8c rather than 8b+ which sounds like not many will argue with!
Title: Re: [Ansteys][Ali Bomaye][8b+/c]
Post by: DAVETHOMAS90 on May 16, 2018, 03:27:18 pm
It's great to see the continued addition of good quality climbing to this crag, and continued development by people like Ellis.  :thumbsup:

Given the imminent arrival of the new guide, I think it's timely to give a proper shout out to Nick White especially, and Ken Palmer, for really helping to popularise the area.

Nick (and Jenny) was always such an amazing host to so many climbers visiting, back in the eighties. Amazing times.

 :punk: :great:
Title: Re: [Ansteys][Ali Bomaye][8b+/c]
Post by: tomrainbow on May 16, 2018, 04:44:26 pm
 Nice work Ellis, looking strong. Now get to work on the projects on the left side of the wall, it’s about time they were done.
Title: Re: [Ansteys][Ali Bomaye][8b+/c]
Post by: Oldmanmatt on May 16, 2018, 08:13:18 pm
It’s nice to see Ellis getting some kudos, instead of crap...

Possibly a lesson in documenting things has been learned.
Title: Re: [Ansteys][Ali Bomaye][8b+/c]
Post by: Will Hunt on May 16, 2018, 09:30:23 pm
Well, to be honest, it might be an improvement on the previous debacle, but it's not up to the standards required in 2018. One measly, stinking camera angle? No techno? Wonky horizon? Back around.
Title: Re: [Ansteys][Ali Bomaye][8b+/c]
Post by: Oldmanmatt on May 17, 2018, 09:11:07 am
Well, to be honest, it might be an improvement on the previous debacle, but it's not up to the standards required in 2018. One measly, stinking camera angle? No techno? Wonky horizon? Back around.

The horizon is not wonky!


The sea’s slope towards the equator is more visible at this latitude.
Bloody Northerners.
Title: Re: [Ansteys][Ali Bomaye][8b+/c]
Post by: SA Chris on May 17, 2018, 11:35:50 am
No drone footage either.

Good work mind!
Title: Re: [Ansteys][Ali Bomaye][8b+/c]
Post by: grimer on May 17, 2018, 11:40:06 am
I know where the route name comes from, do I get half a grade?
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