UKBouldering.com

the shizzle => chuffing => new routes => Topic started by: mark20 on August 19, 2013, 10:54:58 am

Title: [Incomprehensible Chewing Sounds] [E5 6a] [Shining Clough]
Post by: mark20 on August 19, 2013, 10:54:58 am

The short but steep prow left of Valhalla Crack. Pre-placed RPs protect
Mark Rankine, Neil Furniss, Oli Grounsell 18/8/13

(http://j.ukc2.com/i/225611.jpg?v=4908)

Title: Re: [Incomprehensible Chewing Sounds] [E5 6a] [Shining Clough]
Post by: slackline on August 19, 2013, 11:03:14 am

Did Oli get "Cover me in Chocolate..." in the end?

Some impressive lobs he was taking off of it.

Title: Re: [Incomprehensible Chewing Sounds] [E5 6a] [Shining Clough]
Post by: Grubes on August 19, 2013, 11:31:14 am

wow nice!
surprised it was dry up there, well done for putting the effort in for the walk in. It pissed it down in hudds first thing in the morning and I then got rained off almscliff yesterday.

Title: Re: [Incomprehensible Chewing Sounds] [E5 6a] [Shining Clough]
Post by: mark20 on August 19, 2013, 11:45:22 am

The crag doesn't take much run off from the moor and it catches the wind, so dries surprisingly fast. Some classic HVSs up there, and a good collection of routes at E5-6 which have all been climbed/cleaned recently. I also added the direct finish to Free Fall at a cruxy E4 6b, remember the crucial friend00.

slackline - He got close, then did it couple of times on TR then fell off when he tried again on lead. Desperate crux move - at least 4 people have failed on this recently! Anyone know if its had a second ascent yet?

Title: Re: [Incomprehensible Chewing Sounds] [E5 6a] [Shining Clough]
Post by: Nan on August 20, 2013, 06:03:48 pm

Couple of photos here
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7331/9557193136_543f0fbb55_c.jpg)

(http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2883/9557196994_65b2ca88ab_c.jpg)

Nom Nom Nom

Title: Re: [Incomprehensible Chewing Sounds] [E5 6a] [Shining Clough]
Post by: SA Chris on August 21, 2013, 09:10:11 am

I likie the optimistically placed pad.

Title: Re: [Incomprehensible Chewing Sounds] [E5 6a] [Shining Clough]
Post by: tomtom on August 21, 2013, 10:06:09 am

I've always wondered whether the large boulder fields under(ish) this edge (not necessarily below Shining clough but along that north facing side of the valley) would yield any problems? Driving over the woodhead I always crane my neck to see any likely spots...

Title: Re: [Incomprehensible Chewing Sounds] [E5 6a] [Shining Clough]
Post by: leeroy on August 21, 2013, 08:11:01 pm

ive had a quick look about and didnt spot anything great, but its worth further exploration i think.

Title: Re: [Incomprehensible Chewing Sounds] [E5 6a] [Shining Clough]
Post by: B-Bird on August 21, 2013, 09:05:12 pm

Even on TR I could only get the move like 1 in 5 times. Absolutely desperate!

Title: Re: [Incomprehensible Chewing Sounds] [E5 6a] [Shining Clough]
Post by: Nan on August 22, 2013, 08:40:17 am

Which move did you struggle with? We all thought the crux was the first moves leaving the ledge. The pad was less optimistic and more so we had something to keep our feet dry before leaving the ledge.

Title: Re: [Incomprehensible Chewing Sounds] [E5 6a] [Shining Clough]
Post by: B-Bird on August 22, 2013, 06:40:16 pm

I meant on lesbians

Title: Re: [Incomprehensible Chewing Sounds] [E5 6a] [Shining Clough]
Post by: leeroy on August 22, 2013, 09:17:04 pm

oli g = b-bird???

Title: Re: [Incomprehensible Chewing Sounds] [E5 6a] [Shining Clough]
Post by: 205Chris on August 22, 2013, 09:23:56 pm

Quote from: leeroy on August 22, 2013, 09:17:04 pm

oli g = b-bird???

Apparently so (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,9198.msg416707.html#msg416707)

I'm almost afraid to ask.......

Title: Re: [Incomprehensible Chewing Sounds] [E5 6a] [Shining Clough]
Post by: Wood FT on August 24, 2013, 02:39:14 pm

Basically he's trying to empower himself in that I told him he looked like a newborn bird, combine that with his obsession with the little known cult urban polemic '8-mile' and you have B-Bird