UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => new routes => Topic started by: shark on June 17, 2013, 07:43:32 pm
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A monster eliminate taking a direct line that makes the most of the rock between Lyme Cryme and Robert Brown. Has some great climbing
50m Follow Lyme Cryme to the bulge and pull through then gain a standing position on the rib to the left (as for Bromptons Cocktail). From here climb direct with difficulty to gain a two finger pocket then short flake with a peg. Climb up the flake and stand on it. Lean left to put some cheeky siderunners in the crack of Lyme Cryme. Move right to a narrow ledge then climb the grey wall (as for Happy Hour) to the pockets on the Delicatessen traverse. Stretch right and place some disappointing runners in the flake to the right then keep climbing the wall directly with trepidation (poor spike runner) to gain a small but welcome ledge on Debauchery, PR in thin break above. Pull past this to a downward pointing bent peg then climb the white wall above to a flake with a PR (the wrong finish to Robert Brown!). Make tricky moves up this and to the break, PR. Finish direct up the juggy wall above.
Simon Lee and Will Pettet Smith
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Good effort :beer2:
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Effort Shark :)
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Good work! Any chance of a photo topo for the two new lines?
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Good work! Any chance of a photo topo for the two new lines?
Aren't they obvious ;)
I'll try and get it sorted
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Good work! Any chance of a photo topo for the two new lines?
(http://i.imgur.com/AM39XTD.jpg)
Thanks Niall for the image
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King crag
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Nice topo! So does HW supersede HH or is HH worthwhile in its own right? In which case the HH-HW link is surely the obvious challenge?
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Nice topo! So does HW supersede HH or is HH worthwhile in its own right? In which case the HH-HW link is surely the obvious challenge?
HH is definitely worthwhile in its own right if only for the superb crux moves. I was surpised how good HW turned out to be and it was definitely the more memorable ascent.
Drawing the topo made me think that it would be worth straightening HH out and miss the siderunners and rest on Robert Brown and then carry on as for HW to the top. Probably wouldn't change the grade and I might end up branded as the person who brought Raven Tor style linkups to High Tor. I've already given Grimer headache.
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In which case the HH-HW link is surely the obvious challenge?
Dammit JB. I've been obsessing about straightening the route out ever since you posted that. Looks like I will be shitting my pants again next week.
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Let me know if you need a second!
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Let me know if you need a second!
Heading out tuesday if you want to come.
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Day or evening?
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Day. Leaving Sheff 8.30am.
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How do you know these things so far in advance?
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How do you know these things so far in advance?
The gift of prophecy - sometimes a curse
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Bloody hell, 8:30 AM! I'm out. Is it more fun to drive to Matlock at rush hour or does it fool the wife that you're off to work?
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Bloody hell, 8:30 AM! I'm out. Is it more fun to drive to Matlock at rush hour or does it fool the wife that you're off to work?
Early start best as sun comes on the main face at lunchtime and everything gets half a grade harder.
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..climb the grey wall (as for Happy Hour) to the pockets on the Delicatessen traverse. Stretch right and place some disappointing runners in the flake to the right then keep climbing the wall directly with trepidation (poor spike runner) to gain a small but welcome ledge on Debauchery, PR in thin break above.
I had a look on abseil yesterday to see if I had missed any placements. There is good gear to be had in the flake rock 4 at the top is good which makes the runout not serious. There is a wire placement on the boss/spike runner placement but as the whole boss is a bit fragile best not to place it.
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I don't have a huge amount of trust of small wires in those parallel-to-the-surface flakes on High tor, not since I saw a guy fall off clipping the Flaky Wall peg on Supersonic, strip the pitch and deck out. I think they can flex a bit.
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I don't have a huge amount of trust of small wires in those parallel-to-the-surface flakes on High tor, not since I saw a guy fall off clipping the Flaky Wall peg on Supersonic, strip the pitch and deck out. I think they can flex a bit.
Quite right to be cautious a lot of them do flex. The guy was probably Mark Richardson.
This flake is good (it's the one you gain on the Delicatessen traverse to climb to the Debauchery ledge belay) its just the rope is dragging the gear out the wrong way - the two pieces I placed both came out when I started pulling the rope up at the top. The piece mentioned in the small print looks bomber.