UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: coombsy on February 22, 2014, 06:34:47 pm
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Hi,
Pretty new to training and trying to cherry pick ideas from a number of articles... hoping someone might have some advice rather than me cobbling together something that might not work so well.
I managed a few 7a+ and a 7b last year and would love to have a stab at Obsession 7b+ at Malham sometime this summer. I've focussed on trying to improve strength over this winter - mainly just bouldering. Managed a number of V6's having previously only done one before. I was thinking of spending March campussing mainly, then trying some Power Endurance stuff in april to dovetail that into getting outdoors and on the routes.
Can train Mon, Weds, Fri at boulder gym then one outdoor/indoor sesh at weekend weather permitting. I have a fingerboard, dumbells and am 10 stone - if that helps...
Any ideas suggestions would be fab cheers.
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Stop bouldering now, except for once a week to maintain at V5/6. Do some
really boring endurance/aero cap workouts 2 - 3 times per week taking your pick of any number of different routines - they all boil down to climbing for a longer time than you want to. Concentrate on developing your footwork while endlessly climbing. You don't need to be doing a month of campussing unless you plan to continue through the roof.
Get on Obsession the first day it's dry (March/April?), refine the bits you're finding tricky until the inevitable send. It's about V3 (and really good).
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Thanks for the advice Pete!
Good to hear that the campussing will be a bit pointless. That'll save time and effort invested on completely the wrong thing.
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Can get a little hot up there in the summer so I recommend getting on it early as the route can feel totally different in good conditions. If you can only get on it in the summer I think it's in the shade early morning.
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Fab. Thanks flyguy.