UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: account_inactive on December 12, 2008, 11:23:05 am
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Not really headline news anymore, but Scott has been up to his old tricks again :great:
http://www.8a.nu/user/Profile.aspx?UserId=14618 (http://www.8a.nu/user/Profile.aspx?UserId=14618)
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it would be interesting to know which finish was used: direct or right.
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I'm surprised this didn't come up in conversation on tues night!!!!
Cofe: do you mean original direct i.e. straight up the crack, and right as in hard grit
or
straight as being the hard grit sequence and right being the Nedward way?
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have we got 3 finishes to this then? i've always fancied the climbing bit on this but the topuot just looks like hero questing.
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Yup I believe so.
Crack Direct: Jerry Rich
Bentley Method (which seems obvious)
I think Ned bouldered it out and rocked over a long way then downclimbed to the ledge.
Dan V I believe (sorry if i'm wrong) chilled on the ledge then quested off over the top a bit further right than the hard grit video.
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yeah paul - as per jerry and rich direct. only interested cos of JM Cool J's book.
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I very much doubt people will do it that way anymore unless they're wearing a set of blinkers and have a crack fetish.
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that's fair enough i reckon.
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I very much doubt people will do it that way anymore unless they're wearing a set of blinkers and have a crack fetish.
Word.
Shame all these versions make it sound like a crappy eliminate.
There's an obvious edge for your right hand that somehow Jerry must've missed. The crux is still getting the top of the block, but you use that edge and the arete for your left hand, rather than the crack and the arete for your right. Traversing off is just that and not the route. I think Bentley's sequence is pretty logical and Jerry's is contrived and eliminate, though hard.
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Shame all these versions make it sound like a crappy eliminate.
Lets just reiterate then, these are some of the best moves I've done (tried?) on grit. Its also a bold undertaking no matter how many pads you throw under it, despite what the Beastmaker twins would have you believe.
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Shame all these versions make it sound like a crappy eliminate.
Lets just reiterate then, these are some of the best moves I've done (tried?) on grit. Its also a bold undertaking no matter how many pads you throw under it, despite what the Beastmaker twins would have you believe.
I think it's a f*ckin awesome route. Absolutely amazing and probably my favourite grit climb ever.
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I'm psyched to come and try this with you Paul although I don't have T_B's cajones!
(http://static.flickr.com/47/144068845_220b2a8bdf.jpg)
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no sale on whatever that flickr link is.
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no sale on whatever that flickr link is.
Its missing a "farm#" from the URL. Tried
http://farm4...
...and various other #'s (i.e. 1, 2 and 3) and they all go to...
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/47/144068845_220b2a8bdf.jpg)
Did someone (T_B) fall and break something?
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a supply teacher got sacked in oldham last wk for telling a class of 7 yr olds that santa does not exist
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no sale on whatever that flickr link is.
Its missing a "farm#" from the URL. Tried
http://farm4...
...and various other #'s (i.e. 1, 2 and 3) and they all go to...
(http://farm1.static.flickr.com/47/144068845_220b2a8bdf.jpg)
No I did
Thanks for the input Dense
Did someone (T_B) fall and break something?
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which is harder I wonder, ground-upping Rm or using quote tags? :-\ ::)
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a supply teacher got sacked in oldham last wk for telling a class of 7 yr olds that santa does not exist
Spot the North West Tonight viewer ;)
OT but that story about the 6 year old that wrote a letter to the war veteran that was beaten up offering him his pocket money must have reduced even you to tears Lee.
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lee was that war veteran
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Thought as much when the veteran said "I hope to know that young man for a very long time".