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You have 3 guesses as to what this thread is about....and the first two guesses don't count...
Okay dokay here's some I've got tucked away, sorry no download links yet but I will try to find them or try googling or searching your favourite climbing video clip site:
All of beardown's gritstone stuff: Piece of Mind, Gaia, New Statesman, Life Assurance, Crack and Slab, Jasmine, Equilibrium, Gritstone Year (most of these involve that bloke Jordan so Andi_e I'd get the cold shower ready now :? ).
zebree - french canadian (I think?) dude working an utterly hideous overhanging crack. One of the best - and most brutal - clips around.
under.mpg - Czech dude Thomas someone-or-other climbs an 8c across a huge horizontal roof, very impressive and nice music.
baston8c - Dave Graham, dunno whether this was a flash or something but it's pretty cool sport climbing.
ElderStatesman - small, skinny and very strong bloke does small skinny and very hard arete with multiple ropes and big cams. Cameo appearance from me sulking beneath Finger Distance after another failed attempt to do it without mats.
niallPocketsExcellence_bg - Niall McClar (SP?) onsight soloing an E5 6a. Proper climbing.
millauF - Petzel thing - lots of ultra tanned, ultra honed, Euros gather around to compare pecs and attempt the odd F9b.
roctrip_millauF - Petzel again - exactly the same except less F9bs and more impressive falls.
gunks2f - another Petzel - mostly bouldering except there's a little bit of nice route stuff including a phat trad roof climb at the end.
PaisClipWm - spanish climbing trailer video that rman posted, only a trailer but enough impressive route stuff to sell the film.
Realisation clip - one of the best sport climbing clips around but to be honest we should all have Dosage anyway...
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got most of them i think, of course some are better than others! ;-)
not so sure about elder crack arete, a bit wack but nevertheless an incredibly difficult way of doing a bizzare line and quite good to have on film.
that snippet of potter soloing the nose is pretty inspiring (on masters V i think)....
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You missed a couple.
- Dan Osman speed soloing (http://ftp://153.19.47.73/Dan_Osman_speed_climbing.avi) - Blimey.
- Beth Rodden's incredible crack (http://www.bigupproductions.com/bigUpSite2/theOptimists.mov) - you know what I mean. awesome stuff.
- Iker Pou on Action Directe (http://ftp://153.19.47.73/Action_Direct_9A_Iker_Pou.avi) - Damn that looks hard. But he climbs it like it's a warm up...
- Klem on a 9a (http://ftp://153.19.47.73/Klem_Loskot-intermezzo_9a.mov) - and just for a bit of comparison, a 9a from Klem. Not such a great movie, but some great gurning.
- Yuji onsighting 8c (http://www.bealplanet.com/beal-video/white_zombie/whitezombie1.htm) - world's first 8c onsight. worth a watch. The mind boggles.
- Realisation (http://www.bealplanet.com/biographie/biographie.html) - Sylvain Millet getting in the first repeat.
- The dry-tooling dvd that black diamond send out for free is quite entertaining, though perhaps I should mention it in the quality non-climbing thread...
- Macleod on Breathless (http://www.scottishclimbs.com/media/video/davemac_breathless/davemac_breathless_bg.mov) - not that exciting, but hey, it's E10.
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i think a grown man should be free to choose whether to throw chuffing vids on the fire or place them under the wheel of a large truck thats just starting its engine
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You know, they probably won't burn that well. I'd suggest wood or maybe coal.
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fiend, i've seen that video 14,765,374 times and can expressively say it rocks.
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Which one andi?
And Fiend, it's Niall McNair.
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You missed a couple.
That'll have some correlation with me starting a topic on it, then :wink:
Cheers for that list...
Action Direct - excellent, good quality and really shows the style of the climb GULP.
Klem toproping a 9a - not really cricket and too small.
Yuji 8c onsight - pretty cool, I like all the faffing at the top - THAT is what it's all about. Would have liked to have seen the whole thing untrimmed.
Realisation - Realplayer links didn't work for me.
Ste Breathless - good that this was filmed, pity the quality is low.
Will view Beth Rodden's crack hur hur soon, sounds good.
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Will view Beth Rodden's crack hur hur soon, sounds good.
Well, yes, taken from Dosage III of course, but forgivable as I'm sure everyone is going to buy it. Excellent stuff, very inspiring.
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Realisation - Yeah the real player file doesn't work for me either, but the flash version does.
Found the Dan Osman link. See above.
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> Yuji onsighting 8c
The best bit is the guy with the cowbells - I'm gonna get me a cowbell man to help with the psyche!
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Which one andi?
a gritstone year
r-man, why did you edit that post no less than 12 times?
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the action directe video is chuffin' brilliant - definitely one for the archives - the climbing itself is really well filmed and lit considering the dificulties presented by the location. Also one of the few bits of footage I've got that absolutely amazes non-climbers - the workmates were agog "...but he's only got one finger in.. that's impossible..." (footage of slabs and slopeyness just never looks as hard as it is).
Incidently, is it possible to download and save the footage from the bigup website? I can play the videos but can't work out how to store copies for offline viewing.
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the workmates were agog "...but he's only got one finger in..
i've borrowed vids like that off jim
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er dont know whats goin on here...ive clicked on the link and the page cannot be displayed? Im no computer whiz and would quite like to watch this vid, especially as rich has just climbed action. Any suggestions from the techies?
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thats the action directe link..by the way :oops:
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Try right-clicking and saving it onto yer pc.
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- The dry-tooling dvd that black diamond send out for free is quite entertaining, though perhaps I should mention it in the quality non-climbing thread...
That the one that cam with last year's BD catalogue, starring Ines Papert and Simon Anthamatten?
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I quite like this one:
ftp://153.19.47.73/Joel_Brandy_Mango_Tango_5_14a_New_River_Gorge.mov
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Yup that's nice, good film, great line and interesting climbing....
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- Dan Osman speed soloing (http://ftp://153.19.47.73/Dan_Osman_speed_climbing.avi) - Blimey.
wowser - check out the self-rightous bullshit spouted here: http://www.metafilter.com/mefi/46949
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they love it
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This is quite amsuing. How to survive a fall from an aeroplane.
http://www.greenharbor.com/fffolder/carkeet.html
If your search discloses no trees or snow, the parachutist's "five-point landing" is useful to remember even in the absence of a parachute. Meet the ground with your feet together, and fall sideways in such a way that five parts of your body successively absorb the shock, equally and in this order: feet, calf, thigh, buttock, and shoulder. 120 divided by 5 = 24. Not bad! 24 mph is only a bit faster than the speed at which experienced parachutists land. There will be some bruising and breakage but no loss of consciousness to delay your press conference. Just be sure to apportion the 120-mph blow in equal fifths. Concentrate!
Much will depend on your attitude. Don't let negative thinking ruin your descent. If you find yourself dwelling morbidly on your discouraging starting point of seven miles up, think of this: Thirty feet is the cutoff for fatality in a fall. That is, most who fall from thirty feet or higher die. Thirty feet! It's nothing! Pity the poor sod who falls from such a "height." What kind of planning time does he have?
Think of the pluses in your situation. For example, although you fall faster and faster for the first fifteen seconds or so, you soon reach "terminal velocity"—the point at which atmospheric drag resists gravity's acceleration in a perfect standoff. Not only do you stop speeding up, but because the air is thickening as you fall, you actually begin to slow down. With every foot that you drop, you are going slower and slower.
There's more. When parachutists focus on a landing zone, sometimes they become so fascinated with it that they forget to pull the ripcord. Since you probably have no ripcord, "target fixation" poses no danger. Count your blessings.
and a database for fall survivors:
http://www.greenharbor.com/fffolder/ffresearch.html
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And here's how easy climbing 9a can be...
ftp://153.19.47.73/patxi_usobiaga_psikoterapia_9a_(Escalada).wmv
There's an odd edit in the middle though, and he doesn't appear that excited when he reaches the top. Perhaps this is just footage of him practicing it? I wonder how many times he's done those moves, he's got them pretty wired...
Lots of movies here, though my computer won't let me watch them. La Rambla is in there as well...
http://www.artrosisclimbing.com/Inter/Videos/home.aspx
And this from Chockstone.org:
* Gathering Highlights (5.5 Meg, 1 minute)
http://www.chockstone.org/DogRocks/Gathering2003.mpg
An amalgamation of several routes from the Chockstone Gathering day at Dog Rocks, Mt Alexander. Includes Neil on the full body workout splitter jam crack Bravetheart (18), Neil again stemming Jack Russel (22) the corner crack, Alistair making a near clean onsight of the test piece Scottish Resign (24), Neil once more, getting spat off Mo Money (25), and some bouldering action, including a glimpse of Julian on the FA of a new problem. Audio included! Video by Michael Boniwell.
Must have been off-putting climbing with all that cheesy music in the background.
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This is quite amsuing. How to survive a fall from an aeroplane.
http://www.greenharbor.com/fffolder/carkeet.html
If your search discloses no trees or snow, the parachutist's "five-point landing" is useful to remember even in the absence of a parachute. Meet the ground with your feet together, and fall sideways in such a way that five parts of your body successively absorb the shock, equally and in this order: feet, calf, thigh, buttock, and shoulder. 120 divided by 5 = 24. Not bad! 24 mph is only a bit faster than the speed at which experienced parachutists land. There will be some bruising and breakage but no loss of consciousness to delay your press conference. Just be sure to apportion the 120-mph blow in equal fifths. Concentrate!
Much will depend on your attitude. Don't let negative thinking ruin your descent. If you find yourself dwelling morbidly on your discouraging starting point of seven miles up, think of this: Thirty feet is the cutoff for fatality in a fall. That is, most who fall from thirty feet or higher die. Thirty feet! It's nothing! Pity the poor sod who falls from such a "height." What kind of planning time does he have?
Think of the pluses in your situation. For example, although you fall faster and faster for the first fifteen seconds or so, you soon reach "terminal velocity"—the point at which atmospheric drag resists gravity's acceleration in a perfect standoff. Not only do you stop speeding up, but because the air is thickening as you fall, you actually begin to slow down. With every foot that you drop, you are going slower and slower.
There's more. When parachutists focus on a landing zone, sometimes they become so fascinated with it that they forget to pull the ripcord. Since you probably have no ripcord, "target fixation" poses no danger. Count your blessings.
and a database for fall survivors:
http://www.greenharbor.com/fffolder/ffresearch.html
Very amusing, being a jumper myself perhaps I should forgo deploying my chute and try out the reccomended landing! As it takes the best part of a 1000 ft to accelerate to a belly down terminal speed of 120mph from an already moving plane, I find this 'it gets no worse after 30ft' remark bullshit :D Must try :(
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R-man thanks for those.
The first one does have some odd editing, yeah a bit lacking in, ummm, spirit, though looks to have some cool moves.
The artrosis link, it's pretty easy to view the source and download the films if you want. On a PC at least, god knows for a kiddie music-machine. The Rambla one is disappointing, loads of cuts and edits as the camera viewpoint is moved higher....probably not a full ascent then, bleh.
Will check out some more of those.
Gathering highlights looks like it was fun, would be nice to have some of those go on for longer.
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was just looking through some of my downloaded vids on cd, the old Dave Graham Rumney vid, was pretty inspiring, from ClimbX Media, can't find an online link though, I think I downloaded it from someone's blog site, though.
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it might have been this blog site, but the vids have gone now:
http://feralboy.com/log/archives/001248/
The video was called "rumney.mov" but I can't find it.
Lots of stuff here:
http://www.zanik.pl/filmy/
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it might have been this blog site, but the vids have gone now:
http://feralboy.com/log/archives/001248/
yup, it was the top one, have got it on CD
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New clip of Dave Graham's new route, Coup de Grace, on
http://www.bigupproductions.com/bigUpSite2/initial.html
looks challenging :wink:
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Meh. Can you get me a non-Flash link please.
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Meh. Can you get me a non-Flash link please.
not sure how to do that, I'm sure some of the 'geeks' on here can, though :wink:
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http://www.bigupproductions.com/bigUpSite2/movies.html?14&DosIIICDG.mov
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Or even:
http://www.bigupproductions.com/bigUpSite2/DosIIICDG.mov
;)
He is truly the finger beast.
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Cheers 'geeks' :wink: Upon the download.
P.S. Usually I get the direct links myself, but I have Flash disabled...
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the entire Swiss Gneiss section of Dosage3 is pretty goddamn good. Lots of great looking, unspoilt problems and projects with the Dave climbing like a very strong looking spider-beast (well, strong looking for a climber - anyone else with his figure would be forcibly hooked up to a drip by the NHS). Definite "psyche" material for a future trip.
The Ozarks dose is very good too - the footage of the hard Sharma problems (especially King Lion and Witness the Fitness) is exactly what you'd expect / hope for. Incredibly impressive and dynamic... the boy's beefed-up but appears to be putting it all to good use (though does anyone else see footage of Sharma and, from their armchair, have a tiny suspicion that a smooth-as-silk stamina-beast type would find an alternative sequence and somehow climb at least some of his stuff with a lot less power and "fuss"!?).
The Utah update has some good stuff too. Disappointingly little Ben Moon action - the Swamp Arete section lasts about 30s. But there's some impressive highballs, a hard clip-up route, and an interesting coda to Black Lung: footage of the sit-start to Bruce Lee that Moon couldn't do.
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note to self: sit down start to bruce lee is utter toss
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i spose its toss in the same way that squamish is toss eh dense :wink:
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not exactly, squamish has "some" good probs, some very good probs but on the whole is log. whereas bruce lee sit start just hits you as log, it doesn't try to entice you with false promises.
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Thanks to TobyA for this one:
Josune thingy on an 8c+:
ftp://153.19.47.73/Josune_Bereziartu_Honky_mix_8c+.wmv
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actually, TobyM, :roll: :wink:
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Sorry, yes, I did mean to say thingy to Tobythingy for the thingy of Josune thingy. but of course, I actually said thingy... Sorry. :oops:
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Couple of new ones off of the polish site(http://www.zanik.pl/filmy/):
ftp://153.19.47.73/Alex_Huber_Yosemite.wmv
ftp://153.19.47.73/Pedro_Pons_exotica_8c+.wmv
there's also a new bouldering one of Markus Bock on there an' all
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the entire Swiss Gneiss section of Dosage3 is pretty goddamn good. Lots of great looking, unspoilt problems and projects with the Dave climbing like a very strong looking spider-beast (well, strong looking for a climber - anyone else with his figure would be forcibly hooked up to a drip by the NHS).
quite impressed by the project that appears to start off an old farm trailer.
Found the DWS bit a bit uninspiring which is a shame. Guess its hard to get good footage when people are pulling on from a boat.
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there's also a new bouldering one of Markus Bock on there an' all
Now I see why the Frankenjura suited Gaskins so well!!
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this is quite a long vid featuring lots of Timmy O'Neil's 'humour', bouldering in Squamish, and featuring footage of Sharma almost todally sending Dreamcatcher, dude
(plus a brief interview with Ste Mac)
-from the Petzl Roc Trip
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=4943969028769463301&q=rock+climbinghttp://
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Loads here
http://www.chockstone.org/gallery.htm#Video
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Jordan Buys, padpoint onsight of Great Flake @ Caley...
http://www.yorkshiregrit.com/yg/video/caley__great_flake.mov
Nice to see the onsight uncertainty there...
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Enough with "padpoint"! We don't need more jargon!
Anyway, here's a short clip of summat steep and inspiringly hard looking. Looks like body tension aplenty...
Pierre Bollinger dispatched an old project in Kronthal, a big crag near Strasbourg in France.
He thinks it is the hardest route he's ever climbed. About the grade, despite he is still reluctant, he thinks on 8c+/9a. No stranger to hard routes Pierre has already climbed for example Hugh, 9a.
There's a video og Pierre trying the route here...
http://www.escalademag.com/video/pb.mov
(http://www.escalademag.com/images/stories//blog/pb.jpg)
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Stone Monkey trailer -
http://www.posingproductions.com/videos/video_33.mov
Storm the movie - http://www.posingproductions.com/videos/video_9.mov
Climbing in Morrocco - http://www.posingproductions.com/videos/video_4.mov
More here: https://www.posingproductions.com/video.php
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http://www.hongkongclimbing.com/gallery/videos/naughtydragon.mov
The only route climbing video I ever bothered making - just too much easier to film bouldering stuff.
Done years ago which explains the small size, dodgy editing, fact i still have hair in it etc. but doesn't explain how its still my hardest roped tick....
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I have no idea if this is quality or not, as I can't get ReallycrapPlayer going at work.
Fred R on L'autre côté du ciel (9a)
http://www.tvmountain.com/rouhling/video_ciel.htm (http://www.tvmountain.com/rouhling/video_ciel.htm)
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It's pretty good. There's a crazy looking mission impossible style move towards the end.
Fred's own website, with more videos and ting:
http://www.fredrouhling.com/
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Some 9a called KinematiX and a man called Cédric Lo Piccolo...
http://nice-climb.com/PhotosPhil/videobrut/KinematiX_low.wmv
Awesome route. Awful musique.
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I know that route is long and that, but it looks well juggy. If I was to try a 9a I reckon it'd be that one.
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They do look like good holds, but maybe they aren't. Christian Bindhammer seems to think it was a mite tricky...
http://nice-climb.com/PhotosPhil/videobrut/itvchristian.wmv
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Juggy, but 9a juggy all the same!! :lol:
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That looked path-like for an 9a, jug hauling (and some manufactured jugs at that :spank:) on steep ground.
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I have no idea if this is quality or not, as I can't get ReallycrapPlayer going at work.
Fred R on L'autre côté du ciel (9a)
http://www.tvmountain.com/rouhling/video_ciel.htm (http://www.tvmountain.com/rouhling/video_ciel.htm)
fuck me.
I remember reading the fred article in ote 102, seeing that picture of this route and being totally blown away by it, if not by the climbing by the fact he was wearing a long sleeved salmon-pastel-shade t-shirt and a baseball cap on backwards. Its an enduring image. Great though that photo was it turns out after watching that video that it failed to convey the true nature of the route. For example i had no idea that the roof was that long with other massive moves off 2 finger pockets, or that before the crux theres a footless clip to be made off a 2finger pocket, or that theres a headwall to finish on monos. jesus H.
as for that other 9a video, it looks fucking piss in comparison.
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Damn straight, them's not normal moves...
(http://climbing.com/print/features/CLB-0407-FRED-01.jpg)(http://climbing.com/print/features/CLB-0407-FRED-02.jpg)(http://climbing.com/print/features/CLB-0407-FRED-03.jpg)
That's what 9a should be about: mind-bogglingly monstrous beastliness at ridiculous angles on improbable holds.
8)
Here's a link to the article, for those that haven't seen it: http://climbing.com/print/features/fredrouhling/index.html
Good name too. Only just found out what it means - The Other Side of the Sky
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That looked path-like for an 9a, jug hauling (and some manufactured jugs at that :spank:) on steep ground.
Seems Paxti Usobiaga has recently repeated KinematiX. He got it 5th go. But considering he's done a couple of 8c+s 2nd go (check all time score), and others 3rd and 4th go, maybe that means it's hard... ;D
http://www.8a.nu/cgi-bin/scorecard/show.cgi?view=1263&page=1&max_routes=100000&year_from=all
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Ramon Julian on La Rambla Original - 9a+. Not a great video, but it gives you an idea of the route.
http://desnivel.com/tus_paginas/videos/ramonrambla.wmv
(http://desnivel.com/deportes/escalada_en_roca/images/Ramonet_Rambla/ramonet_rambla01.jpg)
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World's hardest crack climb? - F8c/+...
June 28, 2006 - Cobra Crack Update
Yesterday we reported that Canadian Sonnie Trotter had successfully climbed the hardest crack line in the world, Cobra Crack 5.14 b/c. Today we have more details about the climb and style of the ascent. Many climbers have noted that almost all of the modern hard crack lines are being climbed with protection pre-placed. This is often a result of gear being fixed from repeated falls or from the difficulty of cleaning such steep overhanging lines (for example, La Zebree 5.14a in Quebec). This has created a situation where certain individuals feel that traditional climbs made with pre-placed gear are less valid than ones where the leader has placed gear during the successful ascent. Other climbers don't agree with this position and view pre-placed gear as simply an opportunity for future ascents to improve on the existing style. Being aware of the potential for controversy, Trotter has removed any doubt about the validity of his ascent of Cobra Crack by placing gear on lead during his successful FA.
June 27, 2006 - Trotter Climbs the World's Hardest Crack
Canada's own Sonnie Trotter has freed one of the most coveted crack testpieces in North America, Squamish's Cobra Crack. It had been attempted by many of the world's hardest climbers, most recently by Swiss crack master Didier Berthod. Trotter tried the route 30-40 times over three years. He says “The rating seems to be falling in around the 5.14b/c mark. It deserves a variable grade because of it's thin nature. For some, the climb may feel like 5.14a/b, for others the climb may feel like 5.14c/d and on some rare occassions it could very well be impossible. So, for now, it's certainly the hardest pure crack climb in the world. Cobra is 30 m long, with the crux pulling over the lip around the 2/3 mark. It involves huge dynamic throws between one and two finger locks, pain is ever present and the mental crux is overlooking the pain move after move. The redpoint crux comes over the lip on a slippery side pull, the feet are next to nothing and it takes momentum and a huge throw to latch the final edge, at which point you're about 15-20 feet about your last piece of gear; it's really exciting.â€
Didier Berthod attempting it:
(http://www.latimes.com/media/thumbnails/photogallery/2005-10/19786406.jpg)
http://s65.photobucket.com/albums/h231/bbaggio/?action=view¤t=MVI_1315AVI.flv
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This looks pretty good:
http://www.posingproductions.com/videos/video_57.mov
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and on some rare occassions it could very well be impossible
Is this one of the most ambiguous statements ever made?
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Haven't checked the thread to see if its already in here, but this is pretty cool vid of Huber in Yosemite (~17mins)
http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=7528857002009825524 (http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=7528857002009825524)
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New roc trip vid, where Sharma shows he can sound like a stoner in spanish and french too. oh and the opened a new crag and bolted 80 routes from 5 - 8c+, must be nice to have crags like that lying around....
http://en.petzl.com/petzl/frontoffice/Sport/static/Video/escalade/video/petzl_roctrip06_video.htm (http://en.petzl.com/petzl/frontoffice/Sport/static/Video/escalade/video/petzl_roctrip06_video.htm)
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I know its a trailer but..........
http://www.planetfear.com/includes/video/film/72.wmv (http://www.planetfear.com/includes/video/film/72.wmv)
:jaw:
Looks exciting!
I've always had a lot of respect for Dave McLeod, but even more so now. :bow:
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A few shots of Dave MacLeod's new 8c...
http://www.hotaches.com/Scarpa.htm
A few annoying close ups though (not just feet). Wish you could see the moves properly.
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Bit boring till the end, but the fall is impressive...
Skip to 2:45 for the good bit.
http://www.yourclimbing.com/video-whipper_therapy_katies_scary_tombstone_fall
More of that. All seems to be speeded up. Skip to 2:20 for a fall.
http://www.yourclimbing.com/video-katie_playing_hooky_on_the_tombstone_crux_pitch
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D'oh, mention these in the quality bouldering fred. :oops:
:rtfm:
Some lack quality but are good, you can find em at the video podcast link on my website.
www.markreevesclimbing.com
Cheers peeps
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Where is Elementary Wall? Looks good.
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On the little towse on the praire crag on Nant Mor.
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Ru, more info here:
http://www.northwalesbouldering.com/newsitem.asp?nsid=57
There are approach details in the NWB guide and in the CC Tremadog guide. 15 minute walk in, very sunny place. There is also one of the most gob smacking unclimbed lines to go at, sort of a micro route/highball hanging prow with a groove in it. Could be protected with wires IIRC. Very hard though.
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Thanks Si, I'll check out the bouldering guide, not got the Tremadoc guide.
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Might have already be on the thread, but came across Steve McClure on Elder Statesman (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P4BGZ1FpZnY) from those Planet Fear people, and Old Friends (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dm6kThzxPhk) from the dangeroussite.
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and Old Friends (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dm6kThzxPhk) from the dangeroussite.
Worst climbing video of a classic grit route ever??
Still at least there's not even a whiff of useful beta...
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Leave it out, that website dates back to when the interweb was new and uncool and all about actual climbing content rather than bullshit and people scanned in their photos and camcorder videos using scart leads and shit. It's proper old school, and there's some well good photos on there, and a really good essay on Flying Buttress Direct . :whistle:
Anyway you've prompted me to add Old Friends to America to form a 70s ticklist of Simon and Garfunkel routes.
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Andreas Bindhammer repeating Abyss, 9a. right click, save as (http://contentforsports.com/stars/masterrange.de/xfiles/bilder/bildupload/News/Bilder%20Routen/Nizza%20September%202006/Abysse%20-%20Marc%20Cotto/Abysse%209A%20web.wmv)
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Good stuff. Was intrigued by this route when I saw the pics of its FA. Not an amazing video, but it gives you a fair idea of the climbing. Hard to see where the crux is, but it all looks like hard work. Like the soundtrack, nice touch.
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I don't know what these are like, due to an embarrassing little bandwidth problem :-[
http://www.planetgrimpe.com/teaserencantado.mov (http://www.planetgrimpe.com/teaserencantado.mov) (12MB - Chabot & Lindner in South America)
http://www.planetgrimpe.com/alex.mov (http://www.planetgrimpe.com/alex.mov) (21MB - Chabot on some 8c+)
Can anyone tell me if they're worth the effort?
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#1 - 1 minute of faffing around and scenery shots, then a load of dark and distant flashes of sport climbing, very occasionally showing an actual move, then a lot of faffing and horseriding and kayaking and whatever else. My eyes glazed over.
#2 - A short clip of Alex falling off an 8c+, revolutionary. Shows some moves clearly though.
Skip both.
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I don't know what these are like, due to an embarrassing little bandwidth problem :-[
Downloaded too much pr0n?
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Some thin 8c thing in Czech. Not great filming, but tricky looking moves. The footage towards the end of the video is better.
http://www.rockstars.cz/data/lezci/40/video/2894.wmv
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Potter soloing Heaven Crack
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UIB5yyyU4Rk&eurl= (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UIB5yyyU4Rk&eurl=)
I think he has mental problems
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I've soloed Heaven Crack. Don't remember it feeling that hard though ;)
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That Czech stuff looks quality, I'd be really keen to get out there soon.
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Potter soloing Heaven Crack
I think he has mental problems
I agree, what is all that about. Spoils the film I think. Imagine how embarrased you'd be to be there! The climbing does look quality though and he must have a screw loose to be doing that sort of stuff anyway. Nutter.
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As requested DWS speed comp footage:
If you manage to sit through 10 people doing freeborn man not too quickly, and the credits you can see the girlfreind throw herself off the top of conner cove (she doesnt climb so getting back up was interesting ;)), putting all the other wimps standing on the ledge and not jumping to shame!
http://www.filefactory.com/file/835e0b/ (http://www.filefactory.com/file/835e0b/)
Excuse the poor editing/repetitvness...
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Seen this before, but it's great - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x9vVI_hXZYM
No fear!
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Clearly not enough fear, as young Biscuit (the dog in the vid) apparently ended up as a meal for a mountain lion.
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young Biscuit (the dog in the vid) apparently ended up as a meal for a mountain lion.
No shit! Unlucky...
Only watched Front Range Freaks for the first time recently and whilst Biscuit was impressive, the Derek Hersey (sp?) segment was amazing. A true legend...
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Don't know if it has been posted before, but go to www.fredrouhling.com then media (bottom right) and scroll down until L'autre cote de ciel. It's got some awesome looking footless moves on small pockets. It looks stunning, and nails...
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young Biscuit (the dog in the vid) apparently ended up as a meal for a mountain lion.
No shit! Unlucky...
Only watched Front Range Freaks for the first time recently and whilst Biscuit was impressive, the Derek Hersey (sp?) segment was amazing. A true legend...
Aye, man's a legend. Apparently Return2Sender has some more Biscuit Footage, plus another young pup. Not seen it though.
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Return2Sender does have Biscuit and her pup in it, both doing class stuff. Good DVD, worth it for Parallelojams alone.
P.S. http://www.fredrouhling.com/modvid.htm or http://www.tvmountain.com/rouhling/video_ciel.htm to download. Annoyingly spliced in the middle of a few of the hard moves so I'm not sure it's a clean ascent.
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i never knew this kind of thing happened:
http://www.daoneicemaster.it/page.lasso?func=display&l=2&cl=5&lvl1=45&lvl2=827&sez=1&skip=0&recxpg=15&galleryid=695# (http://www.daoneicemaster.it/page.lasso?func=display&l=2&cl=5&lvl1=45&lvl2=827&sez=1&skip=0&recxpg=15&galleryid=695#)
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Some bouldering, but the meat of this is an impressive sport route.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q-BpZbbuiuQ&NR
Also worth watching for the painful looking dismount at a bouldering comp. Check out the deckout - she lands on her head...
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Appologies if this has been posted already. Not really checking net much nowadays.
New website from Mike Call, with some good footage.
This months edition has a cool section with Ty on Nagual.
Check it out
http://www.momentumvm.com/
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Oops, can Bubba move this to bouldering vids. My mistake!
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it's already been in that one for a while Adam
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apologies if this is up already (I don't generally tend to watch the routing vid's but this one is sick hard
sharma on la rambla (http://en.petzl.com/petzl/frontoffice/Sport/static/Video/escalade/video/sharma_rambla.htm)
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Looks a bit pumpy ;D
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apologies if this is up already (I don't generally tend to watch the routing vid's but this one is sick hard
sharma on la rambla (http://en.petzl.com/petzl/frontoffice/Sport/static/Video/escalade/video/sharma_rambla.htm)
:thumbsup:
Good stuff, looks nails, hard throws on small holds when you're already a long way up. Some wild moves too...
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whippers! (https://www.posingproductions.com/video_podcast.php?form_action=play&video_podcast_id=37) :o
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Practice your German with the trailer for Am Limit: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4S-hCMcFYY . Am Limit is a film by Academy Award winner Pepe Danquart. OK, its about speed climbing The Nose :yawn: but the photography, man. :great:
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Sharma on Dreamcatcher (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NR80XPloMEg)
Apologies if its already in here, haven't the time (or patience) to read the whole thread.
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Man that boy can scream!
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some grit for anyone who can be aresd to watch them:
http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=simes303
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Lisa Rands headpointing Gaia
Part 1 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DG6M-h3Xs2c
Part 2 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MwCElb4AiY0&mode=related&search=
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Not a great video, but it's a 5.14 crack climb, for what that's worth.
This man is crazy/dedicated:
The route is so steep—overhanging more than 40 feet in its 80-foot length—that cleaning the gear after each attempt was a major ordeal. “I had to down-aid to fix some nuts—which I did not clip when leading—and then swing and pull while lowering to clean the whole thing,” he said. “Quite tiring.” (in all, he estimates he made 50 to 60 attempts.)
Not only that, but simply preparing the route to climb could take hours. “Every day that I wanted to try the route, I had to dry it out with towels and sponges, he explained. “Some days it would take up to five hours to clean the crack. Yeah, I know I’m crazy, but if you’d see this crack in person you would do the same. It is by far the best-looking route I’ve ever seen.
Video of La Zébrée (5.14a)- http://www.climbing.com/photo-video/av/peewee-zebree.mov
(http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/Zebree-2nd-roof.jpg)
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Has anyone seen any internet links to any footage from the john dunne "the big issue" vid?
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A bon effort indeed. That crack re-defines heinousness. The earlier video of the FA-ist attempting it was enough to put anyone off crack climbing.
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Tomas Mrazek - Underground 8c+/9a.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wMUFUU2kozg (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wMUFUU2kozg)
quite a long video, but looks like an awesome route.
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Lynn Hill and Katie Brown on the West Face (V 5.13b/c A0), Leaning Tower, Yosemite.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gmm9RZe3Pmc&mode=user&search=
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Funniest thing ive seen in ages: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jn_EuLb_5Cc
These guys need to release a DVD
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Neither chuffing nor that amusing.
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Boo Hoo
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Might already be in the thread, but Sonnie Trotter on the FFA of Cobra Crack (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=McHosr_98r0).
The warning in the middle is rather amusing!
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there is a new "old" video on http://www.momentumvm.com/ from dave graham in RMNP. always good quality on that site.
BD
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insight on how to work a route and test gear from posing productions (https://www.posingproductions.com/video.php?form_action=play&video_id=93)
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On the back of EDDIES post (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,4073.msg113129.html#msg113129) in the bouldering thread....
Patrick Edlinger - Opera Vertical
Part I
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iQs3XMYDucs
Part II
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QPbfqKFFuQs
Part III
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T4tzXZXyBTM
(See here (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,7586.0.html) for how to embed video).
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(See here for how to embed video).
Oh, the irony.
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(See here for how to embed video).
Oh, the irony.
irony n, pl 1 mildly sarcastic use of words to imply the opposite of what is said. 2 aspect of a situation that is odd or amusing because the opposite of what one would expect.
Perhaps I'm missing something but in my original the word 'here' is a link to a post in "Support" section that details how to embed video (albeit it at the 9th post), whats so ironic about that?
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I assume Andi is using a computer that blocks Youtube so he is only seeing space in between text. What's it called when you think someone else made a mistake, but it is actually you who are in error?
Edit: How odd, they worked earlier?
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Perhaps I'm missing something
The embedding seems to be blocked from youtube... i.e the vid won't run, something about permission for embedding withheld...
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Perhaps I'm missing something
The embedding seems to be blocked from youtube... i.e the vid won't run, something about permission for embedding withheld...
Ahh, okay, hadn't actually tried watching them whilst embedded, as I'd watched them on YouTube then embedded them.
Anyway, for those interested here are the links...
Patrick Edlinger - Opera Vertical
Part 1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iQs3XMYDucs)
Part 2 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QPbfqKFFuQs)
Part 3 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T4tzXZXyBTM)
(Had I been more attentive whilst watching the videos I'd have noticed that the link to the right indicates that embedding of the video is disabled by request, but I just copied and pasted straight from the URL, apologies to all)
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What's it called when you think someone else made a mistake, but it is actually you who are in error?
Edit: How odd, they worked earlier?
Using that definition posted earlier I believe that is ironic also? Perhaps you can inform me if I'm right or wrong again, I like it when you do that :wank:
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I do apologise Andi and take my punter point. :'(
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Good man and let that be a lesson to you! :)
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Good man and let that be a lesson to you! :)
Other than checking to see if YouTube vids are actually allowed to be embedded (and I did preview the post before hand, and as mentioned they did work originally) what should my lesson be?
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Patios are for burying people under, not falling onto; figure of fours are relatively redundant on grit; one arm pull-ups aren't required to be a good climber. Those are your lessons for today.
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Yegads! And all these years I've been of the (obviously misguided) opinion that patios were for sitting on whilst sipping a G&T.
You really do learn something new every day.
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Patios are for burying people under, not falling onto; figure of fours are relatively redundant on grit; one arm pull-ups aren't required to be a good climber. Those are your lessons for today.
Damn, having recently fractured my scapula, one arm pull-ups are about all I can hope for at the moment, fortunately I've no chance of achieving them in anything like the near future.
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As per usual, apologies if this have been posted already.
Anyway, the one-legged Ivan Lopez on some random Spanish 7c+.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SL8TqtvWw6s
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A few years old but a rather good film of Sylvian Millet climbing Biographie/Realization
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8T5IVUkhCTo
With an interview here (http://www.freakclimbing.com/modules.php?name=People&rop=showcontent&pid=7)
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Osman speed climbing back in the day! Mad bastard..........
Not capable enough to embed so :
http://my.break.com/media/view.aspx?ContentID=275219 (http://my.break.com/media/view.aspx?ContentID=275219)
{bv]Mjc1MjE5[/bv]
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Braille Trail
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=HnLAJ6kI5OQ&NR=1
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Gav (the man) Symonds soloing balance of power (8a) id a DWS/SWS stylee depending on the swell
can't link directly but it can be found here (http://www.dorset-climbing.com/word.html) courtesy of dorset-climbing.com
:bow:
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That dude has some seriously large kahunas. Quality.
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Here you go, embedded.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ArA_Le7kmJg
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Braille Trail
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=HnLAJ6kI5OQ&NR=1
Standard join-the-huge-chalky-dots headpoint bollox with lots of silly speeded up bits. More 1997 than 2007 :S
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Gav (the man) Symonds soloing balance of power (8a) id a DWS/SWS stylee depending on the swell
can't link directly but it can be found here (http://www.dorset-climbing.com/word.html) courtesy of dorset-climbing.com
:bow:
Rubbish video quality but some impressive wave action there. Doesn't look like it would be fun getting out even if you landed in enough water.
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Doesn't look like it would be fun getting out even if you landed in enough water.
Aye, sod that for a laugh. I reckon you would end up on that ledge and then get battered to bits.
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anyone has got a copy of "buoux 8c" and is keen to copy and send it to a depressed italian boulderer who will cover costs of shipping?
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I'd be happy to pay for a copy too!!
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Add me to the list too!. I've been keeping my eye out for a copy of Buoux 8c for ages but had basically given up.
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And me, I'd be keen for a copy.
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anyone has an Ebay account? i found it here but dont have paypal
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ROCK-CLIMBING-VIDEO-BEN-MOON-BUOUX-8C_W0QQitemZ170139946062QQihZ007QQcategoryZ101687QQcmdZViewItem (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ROCK-CLIMBING-VIDEO-BEN-MOON-BUOUX-8C_W0QQitemZ170139946062QQihZ007QQcategoryZ101687QQcmdZViewItem)
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It's finished, and it went for a meagre £5.50. Bugger.
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i have seen the vid pop on ebay a few times, so keep your eyes out, but in the mean time why not bid on this bad boy
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Rare-vintage-action-climbing-set-in-box-geyper-man_W0QQitemZ320148128232QQihZ011QQcategoryZ56297QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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anyone has an Ebay account? i found it here but dont have paypal
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ROCK-CLIMBING-VIDEO-BEN-MOON-BUOUX-8C_W0QQitemZ170139946062QQihZ007QQcategoryZ101687QQcmdZViewItem (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ROCK-CLIMBING-VIDEO-BEN-MOON-BUOUX-8C_W0QQitemZ170139946062QQihZ007QQcategoryZ101687QQcmdZViewItem)
I got it :P
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:thumbsup:
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fH1N1c8fbeQ
Sonnie Trotter on his new 5.14 R (reckoned to be one of the hardest trad routes in the world, along with Cobra Crack and Rhapsody). File under "doesn't look that easy old chap".
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fH1N1c8fbeQ
Sonnie Trotter on his new 5.14 R (reckoned to be one of the hardest trad routes in the world, along with Cobra Crack and Rhapsody). File under "doesn't look that easy old chap".
Looks good like a good line, but a bit of a bad angle. He makes the campus stuff look easy doesn't he!
J :-)
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Ste Mac on Mutation
http://www.climbing.com/photo-video/av/Psyche07-Mutation.mov (http://www.climbing.com/photo-video/av/Psyche07-Mutation.mov)
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Good clip!
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From the E11 DVD - Dave Macleod soloing Hurley Burley - 8b
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=7GOW2iwgPdI&mode=related&search=
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David Lama and co on an 8c+ deep water solo.
Wow.
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=-MlRE60k4is&NR=1
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Yeah, that's amazing- the falls they take are sick!
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Bejeeeeeezus! Those falls look like they gotta hurt!!!!
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The King Lines trailer looks amazing, climbing meets Holywood or what! Like the footage of Steve on Mutation, how easy does he do Evolution :o
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Steve pisses Evo, depressingly. It wasn't great conditions that day either - I was going to try and redpoint it but bagged it due to it being too warm (and the fact that I got roped into belaying for 3 hours). If I'd known I'd end up on telly I'd have shaved and not worn an old S7 comp vest.
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Yeh, the footage of evolution is well good. I like the way the guy below Sardine is so inspired by Steve's efforts that he starts doing loads of press ups. You can almost hear him repeating the mantra "I'm jerry Moffatt" whilst doing the press ups.
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5.14a in Squamish... it was 5.14a anyway...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ARLlaGZI-5s
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Guess it's a bit harder now... :o
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She can hold my rope any time....
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somone needs to lay off the pies. Irish Si won't be happy, think he was keen to go back and do that route.
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Glue it back on! Pantomime style 8)
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Sharma and Andrada in Rodellar http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=lswuk2szSI0&mode=related&search=
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4 Oz sport chuffs here:
http://www.crimpchimp.com/
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Check the vid of Dave Graham on Barrachos Del Mascun on www.momentumvm.com steeeeeeep! :jaw:
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4 Oz sport chuffs
That's pretty light
/me gets his coat
EDIT: WHOA! never knew you could / me on here...
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Sharma and Andrada in Rodellar http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=lswuk2szSI0&mode=related&search=
Funny video, like Sharma before his lob and the antics in the cave.
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Check the vid of Dave Graham on Barrachos Del Mascun on www.momentumvm.com steeeeeeep!
Fucking hell.
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http://www.apple.com/quicktime/guide/hd/kinglines.html
The King Lines trailer in HD.
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Since there is no 'non-quality chuffing videos' thread, this is going in here.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QJ234otpVxg
It's called Chilam Balam 2007 and i thought it would be someone on it at least, but alas, 7 mins of dodgy music and filming of the route from the ground and no one even on it!? Still, you get to see what it looks like in the flesh...
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I've seen some of the stuff on the upcoming Psyche DVD and it looks truely mindblowing. This will be as big a jump as Stone Monkey nearly 20 years ago if the rest of the film is of the quality that I've already seen.
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That's good news. Based on that clip of Steve M winning the Petzl ultimate route thing, it looked like it was going to be rubbish.
More 2nd hand reviews - apparently the Irish one (Underdeveloped) is excellent.
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Committed Trailer. Who's that falling off Meshuga? Ouch. Hope he was ok.
http://hotaches.com/CommittedTrailer.htm
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Neil Mawson, he drove home.
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Hasn't there already been a film called committed?
I'm sure I remember one.....
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Consumed, you geriatric DIY freak, consumed.
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A-ha, so I'm an arse.
Brilliant.
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Consumed, you geriatric DIY freak, consumed.
Not seen that. Is Dunney in it?
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i'd wanted to put footage of mawson on the net for ages but couldn't cos i'd offered it to hot aches. Looks like a good film.
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Hmm i've got slight reservations that it might play on the danger aspect a bit too much to warrant viewing more than a handful of times, hope not.
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http://video.google.co.uk/videosearch?q=simes303
if anyones interested.
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http://video.google.co.uk/videosearch?q=simes303
if anyones interested.
Haven't you already posted these films of you climbing a few pages back?
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Consumed, you geriatric DIY freak, consumed.
Not seen that. Is Dunney in it?
No, that's Consumed 2: Trip to McDonalds which is unreleased.
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http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=DXW5u0qFDr8
There's some good footage of Three Degrees of Seperation on the end of this for anyone who's not got King Lines. The route looks fantastic. I've no sound at work so don't know if there's some awful commentary on it but I'm guessing as it says it's made for Apple it's going to be bad.
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Nice little number, very Sharma pr0n but the 3D footage is good.
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http://video.google.co.uk/videosearch?q=simes303
if anyones interested.
Haven't you already posted these films of you climbing a few pages back?
Oh have I. Sorry. I dont remember.
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BBC iplayer download of To Hell and Back - http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/search/?q=to+hell
But you need windows movie player 11, IE, and Windows XP.
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But you need windows movie player 11, IE, and Windows XP.
...and to be in the UK :(
Can any of you whizz kids get it onto youtube or something like that??
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But you need windows movie player 11, IE, and Windows XP.
...and to be in the UK :(
Can any of you whizz kids get it onto youtube or something like that??
I've uploaded it to my idisk. If anyone fancies it, just drop me a PM and I'll send you a link.
J
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http://video.google.co.uk/videosearch?q=simes303
if anyones interested.
Haven't you already posted these films of you climbing a few pages back?
Oh right, sorry. I had forgotten. I wasnt trying to big myself up or anything. Cheers.
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...and to be in the UK :(
Can any of you whizz kids get it onto youtube or something like that??
same problem here - if anyone finds a nicer way of distributing let me know (pm to orge for a link didn't work as the forum says he/she doesn't exist....)
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DG on realization. You can't see much but you can feel the effort...
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=dpSfHQtBdOQ&eurl=http://climbingnarc.com/
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http://news.bbc.co.uk/player/sol/newsid_7080000/newsid_7082100/7082148.stm? (http://news.bbc.co.uk/player/sol/newsid_7080000/newsid_7082100/7082148.stm?)
Dave Mac on to Hell and Back, that was on telly up here a while back.
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This is a great vid. A mate of mine taking a mean fall and eventually completing his new E5 project at Ilkley.
http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&VideoID=25644073
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William,
the Optimus prime footage is far better, I thought you would know . . .
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I dunno. Of course being the star attraction in the Optimus Prime video was what turned me on a path of fame, drink, drugs and mad sex which I just wasnt ready for at the time. I suppose thats soured the video for me.
(http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&VideoID=20836805)
And who doesnt like a good fall, eh? The cam that ripped in the fall has big chunks gouged out of it and the quickdraw was bent out of shape so the gate no longer closes.
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William,
the Optimus prime footage is far better, I thought you would know . . .
Optimus Prime! First ascent? - MY ARSE
I myself have led this route twice, in 1990/91 and 1996 (bit of a guess on both years). It was first led by ex-Ilkley-regular and large judo boy, John Law in about 1988-90 ish, maybe earlier. He called it Warriors (Of The Wasteland?). Good route though. When I was a school boy with no transport, this used to be one of our regular top rope pissing about toys.
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There was a lot of talk about this but no record of it was found. Oh wells.
Out of interest what grade was it getting when you did it?
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E5 6b is spot on. Second time I did it, I reached out (full span) left from the flake that takes the little cams and wires to place a solid Quadcam 4 in the easy crack to the left (can't remember name of route :-[ shame), making the last hard bit very safe. Top route, if a little sandy and pigeon shitty on the big ledge after the move above the gear. If it wasn't for the poor quality of that ledge, this route would deserve stars. The start used to be part of my boulder circuit - big reach from undercut to ledge and then traverse off left (there are good holds) instead of going up to the flake system - in the world before crashpads this felt like font 7a. I'm sure Mr Dunne will have led this route too, he certainly used to join in on our top rope sessions.
Other people who might have also done it (regulars at the time) are Simon Crossley, Simon Franks and Adam Wainwright, but I'm not sure. All this was nowt compared to a then tiny Mike Hall leading Wellington Crack at the age of 13.
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Poor Sean- he'll be gutted at that.
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New vid of sharma in Santa Linya, check the fall! :o
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xLTb8Qu-DXY (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xLTb8Qu-DXY)
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check this funniest thing i have seen in ages, a guy we know we took him to font for his first time, He normally does one armers for breakfast, and crank out english 6c for lunch, and flash any problem indoors for T
This is his first trip to font
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=Zi0eidMca7U (http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=Zi0eidMca7U)
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=8I1cM4OzXxQ
(http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=8I1cM4OzXxQ)
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I know how he feels - I have an epic everytime getting off that problem. I think I fell down the gap from where he is, where the first vid ends! :wall: :oops:
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What happened to that little mans teeth?
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He does look a bit.........Deliverance.
(http://i18.tinypic.com/85nb7ep.jpg)
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What the flip is going on with the ridiculous media circus surrounding that optimus prime ascent. is he really climbing for fun. im as about as disgusted and impressed as the pigeon!! (did you notice him)
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Ramonet Julian doing the first ascent of Maria Alba, 9a. It's an arete/slab/wall... :o
http://www.ramonjulian.com/videos/marialba9a.mpg (right click, save as)
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Ramonet Julian doing the first ascent of Maria Alba, 9a. It's an arete/slab/wall... :o
http://www.ramonjulian.com/videos/marialba9a.mpg (right click, save as)
Great stuff, lovely. Really inspiring. How sodding hard must that be....Very Big And Very Small F8b+ E8 7a, 3 7a moves in a row etc etc. Maria Alba F9a E!! 7!!??
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Cheers Unc, that was great. Couldn't tell what rock type it was though?
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3 7a moves in a row etc etc.
Totally inaccurate, I know that route like the back of my hand.
The vid was good but quite hard to see where the main difficulties were.
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The vid was good but quite hard to see where the main difficulties were.
As in "he made it look fucking piss". Those holds must be really really bad.
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Couldn't tell what rock type it was though?
Sandstone. Looks quite good if you're in the area (Catalonia) and fancy a change from the usual.
Guide (http://rotpunktholds.blogspot.com/2008/01/savassona-sant-feliuet-via-lactea-i-la.html)
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3 7a moves in a row etc etc.
Totally inaccurate, I know that route like the back of my hand.
Dish us the knowledge then Houdinizzle!
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It's quite simple Fiend, they are not consecutive 7a moves. They are broken by others. As the guide will tell you :whistle:
If you want to know more - I'm afraid you'll have to experience the nature of the problem yourself - coiz I don't dish out beta, pal.
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LOL you slag. Like beta for that is any use for me. I was just reading what the guide says anyway (I know I'm such a punter I actually believe guidebooks....soz...)!
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Red River Gorge
http://www.bigupproductions.com/RRG.mov
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I think this comes under chuffing... :o
http://www.downstreammedia.net/TheRangeLife/Video/mattnet.mov
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I think it comes under WTF!!! as well :)
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http://www.s4c.co.uk/e_watch_level2.shtml?title=Wynebau%20Newydd:%20Dringo%20i'r%20Eitha' (http://www.s4c.co.uk/e_watch_level2.shtml?title=Wynebau%20Newydd:%20Dringo%20i'r%20Eitha')
Apparently you can get subtitles, but I can't figure it out...
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I think this comes under chuffing... :o
http://www.downstreammedia.net/TheRangeLife/Video/mattnet.mov
Jesus that's absolutely insane!
I bet he wet the bed for weeks after he first took that fall...
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http://www.s4c.co.uk/e_watch_level2.shtml?title=Wynebau%20Newydd:%20Dringo%20i'r%20Eitha' (http://www.s4c.co.uk/e_watch_level2.shtml?title=Wynebau%20Newydd:%20Dringo%20i'r%20Eitha')
Apparently you can get subtitles, but I can't figure it out...
Left click where it says Play in the tool bar and select subtitles, then english. It's a good film.
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At best - Ioan is a midly talented young lad, if a little too eager to promote mid-range effort (nothing special mind, no great shakes at all) at worst an arrogant young man w/ no idea at all of the indigenous talent in his own country. Apparently he's the brightest spark in Mam Cymru. No . . . The brothers Beast have held that title for some time and show no sign of relinquishing said title. Get a grip Ioan, there's a lad.
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I think this comes under chuffing... :o
http://www.downstreammedia.net/TheRangeLife/Video/mattnet.mov
Jesus that's absolutely insane!
I bet he wet the bed for weeks after he first took that fall...
Coincidentally, I was underneath, but just off to one side bouldering when they were doing those test falls - looked absolutely fucking terrifying - they were quite close to hitting pointy boulders at the bottom of their fall as well.....
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At best - Ioan is a midly talented young lad, if a little too eager to promote mid-range effort (nothing special mind, no great shakes at all) at worst an arrogant young man w/ no idea at all of the indigenous talent in his own country. Apparently he's the brightest spark in Mam Cymru. No . . . The brothers Beast have held that title for some time and show no sign of relinquishing said title. Get a grip Ioan, there's a lad.
Couldn't be arsed to watch all this and have no sound at work so can't comment on his attitude. But I know if someone had wanted to make a film about me climbing when I was 17 I'd have jumped at the chance and may well have come across as a bit of a cock. He's young after all. However I agree that he's not exactly pulling up any trees grade wise as 8a, E5 and 7C etc weren't hard 15 years ago. ;)
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I think it was Climber that profiled him a while back - I thought his commments about the nature of Welsh climbing and climbers on the patch inaccurate, inappropriate and a tad egotistical. Which is fine if a) you don't mind being wrong in print; and b) you're burning very brightly indeed. Remember - Hocking flashed Jerry's Roof when he was 15 and was onsighting E6 6c in his first year of climbing.
Jus' a lil' P e r s p e c t i v e fo y' all. Free stuff can go to people's heads . . .
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Yes very true. I'm just saying that he'll probably look back on saying shit like that in a few years and laugh at himself. Like Malcolm's comments about Ben & Jerry etc when we were 18. He's a kid. But then I suppose Malc had just crushed Hubble and was the strongest climber in the country at the time.....perspective indeed. :whistle:
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I thought he came across fine in the vid - more tha tolerable arrogance levels. It was more the commentry/voice over that was blowing his achievements (respectable but not groundbreaking) and the routes he was doing out of proportion rather than Iown doing it himself I thought. I enjoyed it anyway.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=isSRroZA2vo
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=isSRroZA2vo
beast flag he does
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At best - Ioan is a midly talented young lad, if a little too eager to promote mid-range effort (nothing special mind, no great shakes at all) at worst an arrogant young man w/ no idea at all of the indigenous talent in his own country. Apparently he's the brightest spark in Mam Cymru. No . . . The brothers Beast have held that title for some time and show no sign of relinquishing said title. Get a grip Ioan, there's a lad.
He doesn't make the hyperbole statements that the voice over does. I didn't read the interview so I can't comment on that. To be fair he comes across as a nice lad.
Although if he does believe he's one of the 1% who can climb 8a (soft) then he's in for a bit of a shock
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:o :jaw: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BO4YYCQmUBk
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nutter!
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Met Ioan in the Summer at Ceuse and he didn't seem at all like the boy who the narrator had him down to be! Very modest, quiet lad, with a very laid back approach who obviously just loved climbing regardless of the grade.....
Not watched all the film yet but the bits i have seemed to be really hyped by the narrator and not much dialogue from Ioan himself....
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Ramonet Julian doing the first ascent of Maria Alba, 9a. It's an arete/slab/wall... :o
http://www.ramonjulian.com/videos/marialba9a.mpg (right click, save as)
Does anyone have any more details of this?
I'd like to know where it is (crag name)
Where the crag is
What rock type it is (sandstone?)
Any repeats
etc etc
An online guide/topo would be brilliant (if I can get my internet to work properly..)
I've had a quick look but my internet connection is playing the I'll only connect to UKB game...
Any info would be great, it looks amazing.
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P:We won everything you can win.
R:In this moment we are the strongest climbing team on earth.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZbyRORGikcY
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yes but its hardly supprising rman when they have the best facilities in the world!
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I'm guessing training 6-7 hours a day, every day, can't do any harm either!
-
I thought Ramonet wasn't even full time and worked as a sparky?
That interview makes the whole competition scene sound as boring and tedious as it looks.
-
I'm guessing training 6-7 hours a day, every day, can't do any harm either!
i'd be broken!
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Does anyone have any more details of this?
I'd like to know where it is (crag name)
Where the crag is
What rock type it is (sandstone?)
Any repeats
etc etc
An online guide/topo would be brilliant (if I can get my internet to work properly..)
The crag is in Savassona ( catalunya , near Barcelona)
the sector is called "La pedra del Sacrifici"
repeats, Marc Le Menestrel is working the route.
Mi amigo Marc Le Menestrel ya lleva das probando M.Alba 9a, es una via muy tcnica y la verdad es que la tiene muy bien, hemos charlado, hemos reido en fin una tarde tranquila.
the topo:
http://bp0.blogger.com/_3LEYSzNCvnc/R5B_rPmmR3I/AAAAAAAAAY0/1uj9wOhufyI/s1600-h/Sava.jpg (http://bp0.blogger.com/_3LEYSzNCvnc/R5B_rPmmR3I/AAAAAAAAAY0/1uj9wOhufyI/s1600-h/Sava.jpg)
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Thank you.
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Old skool.....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WeukQhUPrd0
:)
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Old skool.....
Yes, old skool it is, but what scares me is the fact we can have old skool with 5:10's!!! Man I feel old now! :'(
-
Indeed.
-
I'm psyched though old school cranking videos may be the future of motivation like that fred nicole in armindale on youtube
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Here is my Jibe story.
A long time ago there was an indoor climbing competition held in Leeds (the first one to be held in the UK). Me and some mates went to spectate at the qualifiers on the Sat, but decided to quit early and go off to Caley for some bouldering (we were accompanied by what seemed the entire membership of some uni climbing club, who bizarrely applauded every time a problem was completed with a top-out - I think this was a result of being at the competition and they thought that is what happened at the crag). Anyway, having got back to the comp on the Sunday, we were surprised not to see Jibe in the final rounds, whereupon I asked the question in a loud and pissed up state, "Ou est Tribout?" a bloke in the row in front turned round and said, " C'est Moi!" His excuse for not qualifying? ...And I quote, "My head was er, fucked up" (imagine a French accent here).
...and who was the most impressive climber at the competition? It wasn't Jerry who won, but that little French bloke who climbed really smoothly and didn't have a panty line visible beneath his pristine white lycra - can you remember or guess who that was? He hooked up with Robyn Erbersfield (sp) and I can't remember his name.
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Didier Raboutou (sp?)
Starting to loose your memory old man ;)
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You're not wrong there :( - it was indeed Didier Raboutou, the epitome of style on the artificial rockface!
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Front flip on a slack line
[youtube=425,350]<object width="425" height="355"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/q1OG0iNKTBo&hl=en"></param><param name="wmode" value="transparent"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/q1OG0iNKTBo&hl=en" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" width="425" height="355"></embed></object>[/youtube]
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i am pretty kind of sure this is one of lager's efforts, no new footage, but a nice mix of song and film, even if the origional was unbeatable. i like this version :alky:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lVSrSneqn2U
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Teaser trailer for the new one from Posing Productions...
https://www.posingproductions.com/video.php?form_action=play&video_id=129 (https://www.posingproductions.com/video.php?form_action=play&video_id=129)
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Should have looked harder before posting. Already covered at http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,9161 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,9161)
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I absolutly loved the the end of that last clip.
The guy trying to go for the next move, but he's unashamedly bricking it.
"should I shouldn't I"
"will I make it "
"oh fuck it"
Thats me most weekends
love it
:lol:
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e8Ahw0WPgs0
Fantastic Search trailer
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just saw this the other night its pretty good but for some reason i just don't like watching deep water soloing all of the andrad - sharma bumming is good though
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J-nBGhLMGPM
Sharmanisor 9a.
Pretty bland video but it's got steepness, spanish hip-hop, and Sharma (sorry Ms. Pie, with a shirt on...).
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(sorry Ms. Pie, with a shirt on...).
Clothed Sharma is better than No Sharma, I always say ;D
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I just watched The Fanatic Search clip, it looks ace :bounce:
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It looks like all of the limestone bits of Dosage and King Lines cobbled together without any of the interesting rock types in it...
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Shut it you, it looks like Spain and Mallorca and has Sharma in it you old fuss pot :P
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action directe:
[youtube=425,350]303166[/youtube]
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a nice video by Big Up in china.... (http://www.nike.com/nikeacg/index-en.html#sweetspot16)
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When did Nike (/ACG) start getting interested in climbing?
Seen that big arch in pics before, looks absolutely amazing!
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When did Nike (/ACG) start getting interested in climbing?
Since they thought it would bring them credibility in the outdoor market and thus more cash?
Cool video, although I utterly loathe their ACG site.
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Kind of guessed at that, but was failing to be all rhetorical.
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Didn't Nike have some involvement with Jibe ages ago? Just Do It etc.
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a nice video by Big Up in china.... (http://www.nike.com/nikeacg/index-en.html#sweetspot16)
http://jamespearsonclimbing.blogspot.com/2008/03/dont-forget-to-pack-your-ethics.html
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Compare and contrast from Dani's 'cruising';
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y3EJctYJzpk&feature=related
Love the facial expression at the end, he almost looks gutted!!
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Dani? :shrug: do you mean Dai? didn't think either looked too pushed, though Dai certainly made more noise about it!
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a nice video by Big Up in china.... (http://www.nike.com/nikeacg/index-en.html#sweetspot16)
http://jamespearsonclimbing.blogspot.com/2008/03/dont-forget-to-pack-your-ethics.html
I read this too. Sounds shocking that someone would alter the rock for Nike just to ascend a route. Does one of those guys not run Freestone? Name and shame
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a nice video by Big Up in china.... (http://www.nike.com/nikeacg/index-en.html#sweetspot16)
http://jamespearsonclimbing.blogspot.com/2008/03/dont-forget-to-pack-your-ethics.html
I read this too. Sounds shocking that someone would alter the rock for Nike just to ascend a route. Does one of those guys not run Freestone? Name and shame
pretty shameful for a big player like big up to be involved with this....
something I think they need to answer for.....
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Taken from Big Up Blog:
Big UP said...
Unfortunately Michael did enhance an existing hold on American Gangster. We had no idea he was going to do that, and were surprised and disappointed. We think chipping sucks and have never chipped a hold or supported anyone else in doing it. We did consider whether to release the footage, but in the end we decided that the purpose of the Yangshuo Dose is to give a feel for this exotic new destination, so the more climbs we can show the better.
http://bigupproductions.blogspot.com/
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Taken from Big Up Blog:
Big UP said...
Unfortunately Michael did enhance an existing hold on American Gangster. We had no idea he was going to do that, and were surprised and disappointed. We think chipping sucks and have never chipped a hold or supported anyone else in doing it. We did consider whether to release the footage, but in the end we decided that the purpose of the Yangshuo Dose is to give a feel for this exotic new destination, so the more climbs we can show the better.
http://bigupproductions.blogspot.com/
fair enough - personally I don't think they should have released the footage but then again there would be no naming and shaming - perhaps they should have made the statement on the video...
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Yuji Hirayama in 2001
Sorry, not the Kubrick flick.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0I2t2T-FoZc
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Rouhlings new thing:
Salamandre (http://visitvenusproductions.com/salamandre/salamandre.mov)
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Something steep for y'all...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_5Wsfo3jdx0
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Short film of me on tetanie, 7b+, in gorges de la jonte
http://www.vimeo.com/1271224 (http://www.vimeo.com/1271224)
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Steve M working the Kilnsey Project
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IVu7StN1qjo&feature=related (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IVu7StN1qjo&feature=related)
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David Lama and other young 'uns DWS in Thailand
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-MlRE60k4is (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-MlRE60k4is)
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Trailer for the Sharp End video:
https://www.posingproductions.com/video.php?form_action=play&video_id=136 (https://www.posingproductions.com/video.php?form_action=play&video_id=136)
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Sonnie Trotter on Rhapsody (good views of the crux)
http://www.patagonia.com/web/us/tinshed/index.jsp (http://www.patagonia.com/web/us/tinshed/index.jsp)
Navigate through the Flash to get there ::)
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I am stupidly excited about Sharp End, the trailer makes me do this :bounce: in my seat, a lot.
Ahhhh and lovely Sonny, the only man who could convince me that I don't really need to marry Chris Sharma. Hot Aches have even managed to make Dumby look plesant in the video, hats off ;D
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well first comes climbing, then comes fucking, what do you get if you combine the two
For all who os in the know, this is how kook earns his money, as a pr0n stand in stunt man
http://www.struttergear.com/products/CLUCKING_INFOPAGE.html (http://www.struttergear.com/products/CLUCKING_INFOPAGE.html)
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well first comes climbing, then comes fucking, what do you get if you combine the two
For all who os in the know, this is how kook earns his money, as a pr0n stand in stunt man
http://www.struttergear.com/products/CLUCKING_INFOPAGE.html (http://www.struttergear.com/products/CLUCKING_INFOPAGE.html)
So good its worth doing again (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,8904.0.html) ;)
Check out the TomTom voice (great way to piss off someone, stick it on their TomTom and set it as default voice without them realising).
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::) missed that one, we had totally forgot all about those days, just chatting about it it the other night that reminded us....
That was a funny couple of days down the rocks, people didnt have a clue what was going on, us lot running around with strap on;s and shit, so funny
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here is one for you all, shame the lizard got away, down in the old forest of font
http://www.vimeo.com/1700663 (http://www.vimeo.com/1700663)
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here is one for you all, shame the lizard got away, down in the old forest of font
:oops: that is a Quality non-climbing video (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,4585.0.html). Honestly, really like it, just you got the wrong thread.
Was it something you happened across, or were you actively out seeking wildlife to film? Were the shots of the snake pre or post attempt to asphyxiate the lizard?
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Last saturday both Andy Harris and Rich Heap were trying Mecca. Both got unfeasibly close. When I watched the vids I thought it was really interesting to compare their climbing styles. Rich is clearly making the most of his endurance with his fast and loose style. Andy commented that "you climb how you climb..." but is it that simple?
Is it possible to learn an efficient style and milk the most out of your climbing? And does anyone know if andy made it to the chain this weekend?
Anyway, here's the vids.
Harris...
http://vimeo.com/1787599?pg=embed&sec=1787599 (http://vimeo.com/1787599?pg=embed&sec=1787599)
Rich...
http://vimeo.com/1788769?pg=embed&sec=1788769 (http://vimeo.com/1788769?pg=embed&sec=1788769)
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Arthur climbs there in the style I pidgeonhole as "route climber" and rich climbs in the style is think of as "boulderer". I am also in the latter camp myself.
-
maybe posted before, this made my hands sweat...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fwV5t7IgCHI (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fwV5t7IgCHI)
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that vid always gets the heart racing
cant wait for the long awaited masters of stone VI oh yes you heard right, early next year
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Iker Pou climbing + training + climbing
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gF_sTxBfVuM (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gF_sTxBfVuM)
last week i was in a bouldering concentration, Blockandelario, and Iker presented a trailer of over-caffeinated sugary drink company team DWS(Mallorca) video, 7 walls 7 continents project video and some a trip to Australia where he did some hard bouldering.
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Awesome! Where is this Oro, Alva place? That four move mono pulling 8c+ looks right up my street.
Oh hang on, it's not 1992 anymore is it.......... :wall:
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cant wait for the long awaited masters of stone VI oh yes you heard right, early next year
Where did you hear that Neil?
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Awesome! Where is this Oro, Alva place? That four move mono pulling 8c+ looks right up my street.
Alava, Basque country. 40 km south of Bilbao. Ath athath ath ath ath
(http://www.debenhams.com/images/products/lrg/0506_1610104060_LRG.JPG)
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(http://i35.tinypic.com/1z53gk5.jpg)
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Echo Wall trailer - Sounds like Dave has been taking vocalisation lessons from Sharma!
(http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PNRIA7ckJeE[/url)
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Good to see the BIG NUMBERS creeping in there somehow.
I'll get it I reckon.
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Sweaty palms time.
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Sweaty sac time.
(that might just be me though)
Looks like a good autumn season for video psyche. Looks like the mid-term forecast will encourage that too.
-
Looks like a good autumn season for video psyche.
sp. :spank:
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:'( Oh the shame, beating well deserved.
I think Hot Aches should rename Committed 2 to E12.
-
Ooh, shouty Dave with a new hair cut :-*
I might stay in all winter and watch DVDs, my list is growing.
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cant wait for the long awaited masters of stone VI oh yes you heard right, early next year
Where did you hear that Neil?
on the masters of stone website off course http://www.mastersofstone.com/masters_of_stone_vi.html (http://www.mastersofstone.com/masters_of_stone_vi.html)
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Momentvm have put up some old-skool footage of Sharma doing Just Do It and Necessary Evil from 1995!! Man, was it that long ago????
http://www.momentumvm.com/cms/index.php?option=com_frontpage (http://www.momentumvm.com/cms/index.php?option=com_frontpage)
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cant wait for the long awaited masters of stone VI oh yes you heard right, early next year
Where did you hear that Neil?
on the masters of stone website off course http://www.mastersofstone.com/masters_of_stone_vi.html (http://www.mastersofstone.com/masters_of_stone_vi.html)
Get in! I need a bigger TV and surround sound and...
:bounce:
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Momentvm have put up some old-skool footage of Sharma doing Just Do It and Necessary Evil from 1995!! Man, was it that long ago????
http://www.momentumvm.com/cms/index.php?option=com_frontpage (http://www.momentumvm.com/cms/index.php?option=com_frontpage)
Yeah he's been quite good for a while eh! I've got the amazing video Fast Twitch, has got both climbs on there too.
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Some chuffing footage i uploaded today, bit boring but might be of interest to some:
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=zoIUn1aSNzs (http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=zoIUn1aSNzs)
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=l-5NmdakaWs (http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=l-5NmdakaWs)
http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=X6NgUa6tOcs (http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=X6NgUa6tOcs)
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Nice to see a bit of chuffing going on - struggling, flashing, placing clips and all...
-
http://vimeo.com/1304523 (http://vimeo.com/1304523)
-
http://www.hotaches.com/media/Committed2Trailer.mov (http://www.hotaches.com/media/Committed2Trailer.mov)
Committed II Trailer
-
That Walk of Life fall looks as terrifying as the description sounded.
-
http://www.youtube.com/v/RaJv7VrC22Q&color1=0xb1b1b1&color2=0xcfcfcf&hl=en&fs=1
Nice production.
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That Walk of Life fall looks as terrifying as the description sounded.
:o
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http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=euD7-WF8xtY (http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=euD7-WF8xtY)
This has a bit of nice chuffing in it...
-
That route looked incredible. Never too strenuous looking but always techincal.
-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5oaVOPcV2O8&feature=channel (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5oaVOPcV2O8&feature=channel)
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Its a pitty they ruined that by tilting it too much.
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http://www.youtube.com/v/RaJv7VrC22Q&color1=0xb1b1b1&color2=0xcfcfcf&hl=en&fs=1
Nice production.
good film, enjoyed this one.
amazing bunch of commentators too, wish they'd been talking about something other than ethical debate though. cool to hear from bachar in the extras.
very good.
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BigUpProductions Petzl Rock Trip (http://www.bigupproductions.com/#/vidplayer/Petzl_Roc_Trip/)
Emily would fit nicely in the DFBWGC thread 8)
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I don't think daila ojeda would look out of place either.
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Quality
http://vimeo.com/2553719?pg=embed&sec=2553719 (http://vimeo.com/2553719?pg=embed&sec=2553719)
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Gaia one is excellent, any idea what the track is to the Gaia one?
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Gaia one is excellent, any idea what the track is to the Gaia one?
Janelle Monae - Sincerely Jane
freashly gleaned from cocktalk.....
Good work on the grit recently by the way!
-
http://www.vimeo.com/736234 (http://www.vimeo.com/736234)
Natalija Gros :bow:
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Quite a good video of Adam Ondra on La Rambla. He seems to be actually trying! Quite exciting falls he's taking too!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LdbKjPUDJVY (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LdbKjPUDJVY)
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Quite a good video of Adam Ondra on La Rambla. He seems to be actually trying! Quite exciting falls he's taking too!
Indeed, and he seems to have developed Sharma's 'sa' shouting!
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Nice to see him make an effort for once :jaw:
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he seems to have developed Sharma's 'sa' shouting!
I'm developing an irrational hatred of everyone who does it; I don't care how hard they are trying. It's not even a word. >:(
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he seems to have developed Sharma's 'sa' shouting!
I'm developing an irrational hatred of everyone who does it; I don't care how hard they are trying. It's not even a word. >:(
I think it is in some weird buddist circles..... Or something.
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Don't try and justify it, Adam, that'll just make me develop an irrational hatred of you instead :spank:
The buddhist thing does sound familiar; but since when has Ondra been a buddhist?
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The buddhist thing does sound familiar; but since when has Ondra been a buddhist?
Well, he is an impressionable young lad. A strong one, but still impressionable. Maybe he has bought into the Sharma hype! ;)
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Never scared of missing a few clips is he?
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What's the deal with the massive jug "feet only, no hands"??? ???
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What's the deal with the massive jug "feet only, no hands"??? ???
I think when Ramon did the 1st ascent he didn't use that hold for his hands. But Sharma and Edu Marin did use it. There was some debate about the grade using that hold if i recall? I think Ondra purposefully didn't use it?? :shrug:
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Ondra missed it out on purpose but also said that it was "nonsense to consider it prohibited" on 8a.spew.
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Amazing how many of the top sport climbs are connected with some sort of controversy.
Akira (how dare he claim he's so much better)
Orujo (How dare he chip)
Realisation (how dare he rename)
La Rambla extension (how dare he add two grades for 5m extra climbing)
Chilam Balam (how dare he claim he's so much beter)
Why doesn't this happen in bouldering? I suppose there was the Dreamtime thing a while ago. And more than a few overgrades. But nothing like the same levels of general fuss stirred up.
Just found this. Cristian Brenna on why Americans are better: http://www.lasportiva.com/Magazine/inglese/realizzazioni/evoluzioneArrampicata.htm (http://www.lasportiva.com/Magazine/inglese/realizzazioni/evoluzioneArrampicata.htm)
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Good to know the rest of the world's psyched for elliminates too. Now when's ondra coming to minus ten eh?
-
Video in this link. Gnarl.
http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/paul_robinson_2nd_ascent_of_psychedelic_514cd/ (http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/paul_robinson_2nd_ascent_of_psychedelic_514cd/)
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Gaz "the man" Parry
http://www.vimeo.com/3930869 (http://www.vimeo.com/3930869)
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Old Skool 8)
Its considered unsportsman like to go out climbing without having drunk vast quantities of beer beforehand
:lol: :lol: :lol:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAm10A3QFBo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAm10A3QFBo)
-
Tis good stuff.
I climb really badly on granite. I should try to get to grips with it one of these days.
-
If you can stand the narration then this is a must watch:
http://play.freecaster.com/player/FCPlayer.swf?id=YXBJRD0xMDAwMDA3JmNJRD0xMDA3MjM5 (http://play.freecaster.com/player/FCPlayer.swf?id=YXBJRD0xMDAwMDA3JmNJRD0xMDA3MjM5)
Huber brothers + 2 go big walling in Antarctica.
-
http://www.deadpointmagazine.com/ (http://www.deadpointmagazine.com/)
The paul robinson footage on psychedelic is amazing, I normally get bored of watching route videos but its pretty sweet. The route looks amazing to!
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Looks very steady going at the top! Must be a brick hard first few bolts to get Fr9a.
-
yeah the tops sposed to be French 7c
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Looks very steady going at the top! Must be a brick hard first few bolts to get Fr9a.
He says it's a V13 crux at the start of the vid.
-
more importantly, is that a reincarnation of the V10 he's wearing?
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Awesome looking route. Right up my street......... but:
Psychedelic: 8B crux + 7c = 9a
Hubble: 8B/+ crux + 7c = 8c+
Hmmmm?
It also looks easier than Hubble (three hard moves? as opposed to six) but I do realise Robinson is a fucking beast with the body of a small child to propel up the rockface so that's not saying much. Graham made it look piss also but the same rules apply. As DG had a dcent bash on the Tor's most famous asset I'd be interested to know how they compare. Can someone ask him for me please? Thanks.
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I'd put money on yer Hubble 8b boulder and yer Physchadelic 8b boulder being two different kettles of fish!:
(http://www.conservative-t-shirts.com/img/product_pages/designs/D-welcome-to-america.gif)
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more importantly, is that a reincarnation of the V10 he's wearing?
They look like a V10 with a strap - how exciting! It's obviously too much to think that 5.10 have listened to any sort of customer feedback, so I assume they either won't produce them, or they'll make them shit somehow...
-
The boots were given to certain athletes to test before the jet 7s. James had some and said they were awesome. 5.10 then brought out the jet 7, oops!
Maybe they will sort it out!
-
fruits de mer
-
I'd put money on yer Hubble 8b boulder and yer Physchadelic 8b boulder being two different kettles of fish!:
(http://www.conservative-t-shirts.com/img/product_pages/designs/D-welcome-to-america.gif)
Have you seen the "Jon Cardwell and Andre Wotsit climb V14" vid on that same site?
That problem The Saddhu looks like the Rubicon warm up traverse but given 8B+. Is this what Tyler means by grade creep I wonder.........
:-\
-
Old Skool 8)
Its considered unsportsman like to go out climbing without having drunk vast quantities of beer beforehand
:lol: :lol: :lol:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAm10A3QFBo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAm10A3QFBo)
Bit slow on the uptake, but this vids awesome. The yanks rather dapper hat, his caddish comments about 'grabby' brits, and Livesey's dead pan voice as he explains why he hasn't told the yank about the gear placement. Great stuff.
-
More old skool:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N70DLM8Az_8 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N70DLM8Az_8)
:)
-
That film had a lot to answer for. For years if you mentioned climbing to any non-climbers this was all they'd go on about.
Still, better than them all thinking Joe Simpson's some sort of hero I suppose!
-
I don't suppose the highlights of the Old Man of Hoy fest are floating about in the ether are they?
Being very young, I've never really seen it.
-
another quality burd in this one...Mayan Smith-Gobat:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VBRSKCfYrfE (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VBRSKCfYrfE)
-
I'd take the Mayan Smith-Gobat Challenge. She could bring her sister.
(http://tvtropes.org/pmwiki/pub/images/challenge-of-the-gobots.jpg)
THAT would cause a
(http://snesmusic.org/v2/images/screenshots/rotr.png)TALLIONI
-
Old Skool 8)
Its considered unsportsman like to go out climbing without having drunk vast quantities of beer beforehand
:lol: :lol: :lol:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAm10A3QFBo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAm10A3QFBo)
Bit slow on the uptake, but this vids awesome. The yanks rather dapper hat, his caddish comments about 'grabby' brits, and Livesey's dead pan voice as he explains why he hasn't told the yank about the gear placement. Great stuff.
Livesey certainly did have a dry sense of humour .... Does anyone else remember the episode of 'Lakeland Rock ' when he took Chris Bonington up 'Footless Crow ' .... Bonington had struggled for the whole length of the route and as he got to yet another hard move near to the top you could hear a voice offering to lower down a pound note as an incentive ..... :lol:
-
Not strictly "quality", but historically interesting - Jasper will know the details
Might take a while 'till it starts playing as it's over an hour long
http://vimeo.com/4425449 (http://vimeo.com/4425449)
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There isn't a thread for non-quality cheesey interviews with climbing superstars, but I feel the need to inflict this on everyone else:
http://www.trentofestival.it/webtv/eng/scheda.php?idFilm=325 (http://www.trentofestival.it/webtv/eng/scheda.php?idFilm=325)
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There isn't a thread for non-quality cheesey interviews with climbing superstars, but I feel the need to inflict this on everyone else:
http://www.trentofestival.it/webtv/eng/scheda.php?idFilm=325 (http://www.trentofestival.it/webtv/eng/scheda.php?idFilm=325)
Oh my God, that was like soooo tedious, you know?
The bloke can crush but he's no Dawes when it comes to describing his climbing. That interviewer could give Jo Whiley a run for her money as well.
-
http://www.survival-international.org/lib/img/gallery/Video_Galleries/innu/hi_res/Nelsons_Column_high.ram (http://www.survival-international.org/lib/img/gallery/Video_Galleries/innu/hi_res/Nelsons_Column_high.ram)
n 1995 Survival carried out the most spectacular stunt in its history: climbing Nelson's column to draw attention to the plight of the Innu. Three professional rock climbers - Johnny Dawes, Jerry Moffatt and Simon Nadin - hung a banner from the top reading 'Canada: let the Innu live'. In a statement to the press the three said, 'As climbers we have encountered many tribal peoples throughout the world. We would like to support them and to repay some of the help they have given us during our adventures.' The stunt received press coverage around the world.
-
this is pretty quality
http://bleau.info/calvaire/ (http://bleau.info/calvaire/)
a nice little video of the guys demolishing the calvaire cave in font
-
LOL, that's pretty cool. For some strange reason I'd have expected them to knock it down rather than lift it up...
-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9U0tDU37q2M (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9U0tDU37q2M)
-
Not strictly "quality", but historically interesting - Jasper will know the details
Might take a while 'till it starts playing as it's over an hour long
http://vimeo.com/4425449 (http://vimeo.com/4425449)
That was a quality weekend though - blagged a free pizza in a restaurant on the Saturday after my mates convinced the waitress that I was through to the final and that it be a good way to celebrate...I had to pretend to be French, but it worked.
Didier Raboutou (sp) impressed all with no visible panty line in his lycra, but Jerry of course stole the show.
Went to Caley on the Sunday morning with some students crashing at a mates house and they all applauded when one of us got to top of a problem (just like at the comp) - it was a glimpse of the future and highly amusing.
-
Of course I'm talking absolute bollox - this of course is a video of a comp at Birmingham and not Leeds.
Well, it is Friday afternoon.
-
Is your memory going, old man? :lol:
-
:oops:
Nah, just a really dull Friday - and who are you again?
-
http://vimeo.com/4304488 (http://vimeo.com/4304488)
Alex Honold - crushing Borneo
-
http://vimeo.com/4304488 (http://vimeo.com/4304488)
Alex Honold - crushing Borneo
they stopped in HK on the way home and gave a small slide show about this trip - looked a pretty cool spot
-
Recent ascent of The Fly.
http://vimeo.com/4746510
-
http://vimeo.com/4665017 (http://vimeo.com/4665017)
-
Alex Honold - crushing Borneo
Quality vid, this Honold's a bit of a beast :P
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8hE84eFEJRc (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8hE84eFEJRc)
Crikey.
-
:o Thats immense :o
-
Incredible!
-
jesus titty fucking christ.
-
:jaw: :o
-
That Andrada clip is from the Fanatic search. By far my favorite climbing flick. Lots of Sharma action on there as well and also Andrada and other Spainwads watching Ondra piss La Rambla.
-
Sharmas new route in Oliana.
http://www.bigupproductions.com/#/vidplayer/Pachamama/ (http://www.bigupproductions.com/#/vidplayer/Pachamama/)
-
Nice video. Although not for those who are phobic of power-screaming.
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Yeah, I love that vid too. It's just sunny all the way through it, makes you want to move there and feel incredibly weak.
-
the andrada vid was very boring for me, i'm sure it's alot more fun to climb that than to watch.
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Everyone knows it's easy in your backyard. Parisellas would sort him out.
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http://www.catchingreality.com/ (http://www.catchingreality.com/)
Goes on a bit, but some nice shots.
-
Gaz Parry climbing The Spider down cheedale. Good if you want some beta :)
http://vimeo.com/5619906 (http://vimeo.com/5619906)
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1u5zapdq1w4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1u5zapdq1w4)
-
Climbing starts 5min in.
http://vimeo.com/3182587 (http://vimeo.com/3182587)
-
http://vimeo.com/5937253 (http://vimeo.com/5937253)
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Niiiice. Strange climbing, looks marginal
-
Niiiice. Strange climbing, looks marginal
Looks mega, anyone know where it is???
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00:24 Annot
Looks awesome.
-
sorry deleted
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Looks like I got to see that just in the nick of time.
-
And looks like I chose the wrong time to go out for lunch. :furious:
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http://vimeo.com/6099222 (http://vimeo.com/6099222)
sorry thought steve should see it first but here it is
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Schmooove, good work Steve :bow:
-
Interesting and very impressive. Not the same foot position as Ben on the crux but both feet on (and virtually static).
That high right foot for the last hard move (and virtually static). :o
:bow:
Nice vid Ben.
-
Nice vid Ben.
Yeah you made the Tor look quite nice :lol:
-
he's fucking world class.
-
Good to see Steve's lucky pants are still working after all these years... ;)
-
They must have clocked up more F-points than any other garment in history.
Still look shit though.
-
the little tuft of hair that made an escape from the clippers is a strong look :bow:
good vid
-
Respect
-
Just awesome, steves footwork is simply amazing. Fully bob-on
-
the little tuft of hair that made an escape from the clippers is a strong look :bow:
good vid
If it worked for Gaskins ;)
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Good to see Steve's lucky pants are still working after all these years... ;)
Are they the same pair or have they been replaced through the years? ;)
He's awe inspiring to watch though, whatever he wears.
-
...whatever haircut he sports.
-
Shit route. Shit top rope. Shit music.
Good effort :)
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Nice vid ben. I hope everyone is clocking the music reference.
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I hope everyone is clocking the music reference.
I had to watch it again to realise.
-
He did that so smoothly. I'm surprised he didn't continue to the top of the crag... ;)
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Nice vid ben. I hope everyone is clocking the music reference.
Everyone that has seen that film, you mean :lol:
-
fucking beast.
i have beta now though.
-
btw what he's got on his harness under his chalkbag?
-
It's a 5kg weight, it was too easy without 8)
-
http://vimeo.com/6083074 (http://vimeo.com/6083074)
-
http://vimeo.com/6102968 (http://vimeo.com/6102968)
-
super everything eh.
-
super everything eh.
Yeah dude, it was like, so, rad!
-
Maybe he's been super-sized :P
-
Do mine ears deceivest me or does he really say "straight g-in' it" at the start without a hint of irony?
-
he also says 'sea of nobs' without so much as a smirk... what the hell is wrong with this kid?!!!
-
http://vimeo.com/6146104 (http://vimeo.com/6146104)
http://vimeo.com/6052030 (http://vimeo.com/6052030)
-
http://vimeo.com/6038303 (http://vimeo.com/6038303)
-
I hadn't realised Green Traverse went so high.
-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BPN3gLVDsOY (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BPN3gLVDsOY)
-
Ironic? (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,4585.msg215046.html#msg215046)
-
http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xa65w1_infinity-lane-petzl-roctrip09_sport (http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xa65w1_infinity-lane-petzl-roctrip09_sport)
Infinity lane. Petzl RockTrip 2009
-
Those occasional climbing scenes must be annoying for didgeridoo fans.
-
:lol: I gave up after 12 seconds.
-
got bored... shame these roc trip video's were good in the past - think the hippies are taking over
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got bored... shame these roc trip video's were good in the past - think the hippies are taking over
(http://www.ladzinski.com/images/sharma-splash-1.jpg)
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Those occasional climbing scenes must be annoying for didgeridoo fans.
that was gash what a shame, utter shit
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http://vimeo.com/6102557 (http://vimeo.com/6102557)
Worthy of inclusion for the act more so than the quality of the video. And for soloing something that serious in that shirt :o
-
Nice shirt, I'm impressed he didn't appear to have any water with him :o
-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0x4NuP9YTuo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0x4NuP9YTuo)
-
http://vimeo.com/6078461 (http://vimeo.com/6078461)
-
http://vimeo.com/3976756 (http://vimeo.com/3976756)
-
Gav "the man" Symonds DWS on the Pembroke coast
He took a lob from the top last year but went back recently
-a south coast boy done good :beer2:
San Simeon (http://www.vimeo.com/6345513)
-
http://www.tielma.com/thesends.html (http://www.tielma.com/thesends.html)
-
Climb de Rock- Bermuda DWS (http://www.vimeo.com/6356350)<p><a href="http://vimeo.com/6356350">Climb de Rock- Bermuda DWS</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user2236046">Davie Crawford</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
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God knows why it posted two bloody windows.
Anyway, I can't fix it.
I'm coming out the closet. It's me. I made this video. Apologies for the sound quality in some parts. It's not like that on the un-compressed version.
-
I enjoyed it. Looks like lots of fun. Pretty slick editing for an imovie effort!
-
Spiderman scales Mickeys Beach Crack without a rope for National TV (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5PywRnBl7IE#)
;)
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"some call it 'white courage', I call it...'chalk' "
Brilliant.
-
My mind is also blank
-
Genius.
I shall have to incorporate some "maneuvers" into some routes on the grit tomorrow.
-
Didn't one side of Mickey's Beach Crack fall into the sea leaving Mickey's Beach Arete? Or am I thinking of somewhere else?
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I think that's right. A part of me wishes he'd been on it at the time.
-
I have rarely seen someone who appears so instantly to be a cunt.
-
10 x 7a (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D1WRCgHqFB8#)
Font, 10x7a in a day
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Well, did you?
Nice video, I liked it. A little music would be good though.
-
Voodoo Magic (http://www.vimeo.com/6570608)
Short Dumbuck video...
-
Well, did you?
Should have said it's not me in that video. Don't know if the mission was accomplished.
-
Just a heads up to say that the legendary film K2 is on iplayer at the moment. :thumbsup:
Not only does it demonstrate the 'gun show' chat up technique in the first 5mins but it also has the legendary lines:
"Nice beelay!"
and
"Let's get off this mountain!"
Classic!
-
14 year old Enzo Oddo crushing chocholoco-9a, Carros, France
Enzo.Chocholoco (http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xai1ci)
-
check out orbayu by the pou bro's on mvm 9a on trad gear E?
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THE BIZMARK 5.13b (http://vimeo.com/6511449)
-
Sonnie Trotter, Master Blaster, 5.13c/d (http://vimeo.com/5654799)
-
Gav "the man" Symonds DWS on the Pembroke coast
He took a lob from the top last year but went back recently
-a south coast boy done good :beer2:
San Simeon (http://www.vimeo.com/6345513)
i saw some footage last year and he latched a fixed wire just short of the top and had to lob off :'(
so well done to Gav for going back and finishing it off.
-
IMAG0052 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xO0g8v8hv0w#ws-hd)
Robin Richmond returned to the Brand, Leicestershire, to repeat his route Branded, E8 6c.
Robin did the first ascent back in 2003 since then it has only been repeated once.
With the Leicestershire Guide currently being worked on, Robin was asked if he would be happy to go back to the Brand and repeat the route for some photos, he gladly obliged! doing the route not once but TWICE in the space of 40 minutes.
Access is still very delicate at the Brand, anyone wishing to climb there must contact the owners before going.
http://www.thetowerclimbingcentre.co.uk/ (http://www.thetowerclimbingcentre.co.uk/)
-
Mallorca Psicoblog 5 "The Weather Man" (http://vimeo.com/6678472)
-
Nice. Just a shame they're being too arty with the DOF.
-
Has anyone climbed at the Brand? I'm v unlikely to go there but I like my esoteria and it looks intriguing.
-
Quite into that selective focus action, bet it will look great in the final cut on a big screen, wonder if it's an expensive lense or less expensive post production?
-
Quite into that selective focus action, bet it will look great in the final cut on a big screen, wonder if it's an expensive lense or less expensive post production?
is magic bullet looks - swing tilt. $399
http://www.redgiantsoftware.com/store/all/magic-bullet-looks/ (http://www.redgiantsoftware.com/store/all/magic-bullet-looks/)
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is magic bullet looks - swing tilt. $399
http://www.redgiantsoftware.com/store/all/magic-bullet-looks/ (http://www.redgiantsoftware.com/store/all/magic-bullet-looks/)
Nice, is that what you used on the videos of Ty in font to get the colour effects, or did you just use a filter?
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Has anyone climbed at the Brand? I'm v unlikely to go there but I like my esoteria and it looks intriguing.
one guy has logged it on UKC:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/showlog.html?id=47476 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/showlog.html?id=47476)
based on his other ascents, seems like a bit of a stretch to ticking an E8.
-
Why? You can see from the logbook that he toproped it several times before he went for it, said it was about Fr7c and has done several sport RP's near this sttandard.
-
Yeah he worked it for a month or so by the looks of things. Said he found some more gear and reckoned E7 was more appropriate. There are photos of him on it too!
-
I was only wondering what the place was like.
-
I was only wondering what the place was like.
If someone has actually been climbing there in recent years, I fear that it would not be esoteric enough for you Andy. ;)
-
Obviously I've climbed at the Brand, twice. It's quite nice, certainly one of Leicestershire's better and chic-er venues. The location in the outskirts of a country house garden can be very pleasant, I saw kingfishers there one time.
Mango is as good a short VS as anything anywhere. Sailaway (E0) is a classic jamming test but doesn't feel entirely attached to the parent rock. I'm keen to go back and try the low extremes on the left at some point. Branded looks ace in that video, I wish I'd posted the link myself last week.
-
Why? You can see from the logbook that he toproped it several times before he went for it, said it was about Fr7c and has done several sport RP's near this sttandard.
i'm not dissing him.....based on a very quick look it seemed there was not much in the 7b/c range or E3-6 range. If i was to try and headpoint an E7/8 that is the sort of foundation I would want to have.....and lot's of it (mainly because i'm a wuss).
-
I nearly climbed at the Brand but only had about 30 mins so went to the quarry in the middle of the village just north west from there which I really enjoyed. Spent about 20 mins trying an overhanging flared chimney - maybe the hardest thing like this I have tried.
Went to a granite quarry above a lake near the motorway first (soloed some E2 up the back wall) and then finished the day at Lawrencefield so got a 3 rock type in a day tick!
-
You're like a Boone Speed for the noughties.
-
I nearly climbed at the Brand but only had about 30 mins so went to the quarry in the middle of the village just north west from there which I really enjoyed.
Forest Rock. Sorcerer E1 5b *** is really good there, very substantial for a small crag.
Spent about 20 mins trying an overhanging flared chimney - maybe the hardest thing like this I have tried.
Sounds like the alternative start to Saucy E3 5c **, which Cider Nut did on a top-rope (you're supposed to start hugging the right rib).
Went to a granite quarry above a lake near the motorway first (soloed some E2 up the back wall)
Plain Sailing E2 5c ***, a great little route and better than most things at Lawrencefield ;)
-
Quite into that selective focus action, bet it will look great in the final cut on a big screen, wonder if it's an expensive lense or less expensive post production?
I quite like it, when it's done well (Ste Mac on Hubble), but when the climber tops out into blurred frame, I don't like it. I reckon it's just a tilted lens.
-
I've been eyeing up The Brand for a while. Name the time and I'm there.
Out of interest how deep is the water at the bottom? Is Branded et al essentially safe just not done as a DWS?
-
Can't remember but I wouldn't rely on it. The house owners might be somewhat disapproving of flamboyant splashdowns in their lake.
-
Plain Sailing E2 5c ***, a great little route and better than most things at Lawrencefield ;)
I thought that Plain Sailing was a little short lived and was put off by the old bolt! But those few moves where pretty good. The eight foot fence was fun aswell!
I've been eyeing up The Brand for a while. Name the time and I'm there.
Out of interest how deep is the water at the bottom? Is Branded et al essentially safe just not done as a DWS?
Potentially could DWS the routes from maybe Rhythm Collision to around Branded...with parts which apparently vary from mega deep to shallow where the water conceals the jagged slate beneath. Have a swim and check it out!! But I guess the routes do tend to get into fairly 'high' DWS territory being around 17m, also over flat calm (but in the case of Branded it's all over by 12m).
By the way there are now around double the routes that are on the Leicester guide website.
-
The water beneath Rurp the Wild Berserk has nasty looking boulders in it, you can see them in the winter when the water is clearer. Halfway up the slab of Rurp you can see there is a change in the colour of the rock. It looks like there was once an overlap that spanned accross the slab that has at some point detached from the wall. This explains the large boulders that are now in the water below the slab. The arete of Branded comes out over the line where you would expect some of the rock to have fallen, so could be very dangerous.
-
A bad day of Adam Ondra (http://vimeo.com/6747749)
Shock horror - Ondra fails on stuff!
-
some good ones here if no one's seen b4....esp the 8a.nu pish take
http://www.reelrocktour.com/#/contest/ (http://www.reelrocktour.com/#/contest/)
-
Shock horror - Ondra fails on stuff!
Fucking punter.
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Teaser vid of Leo and friends on their recent project
Sky Dive into Baffin Island (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qbZTpwvVfsE&feature=player_embedded#ws)
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Shock horror - Ondra fails on stuff!
Fucking punter.
I wish more of *my* bad days involved very nearly flashing F8b+s....!!
Nice video.
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Trailer for Big Ups new film, looks pretty suave.
PROGRESSION Trailer (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fpu8cQGn1LY#ws)
And a slightly less professional but hopefully still interesting effort from me from a few years back.
Obsession (http://vimeo.com/6848413)
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Thanks Doylo, been waiting a long time to see that Action Directe vid...
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That obsession vid was f*cking awesome! Totally inspirational, Simpson's motivation and dedication really comes across. Thanks for posting it. :great:
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i agree the video of rich simpson is particularly inspiring. the kid is dedicated.
is it just me or the footage of marcus bock failing on AD particularly pleasing??
the footgae of dai koyamada on youtube is also great of this route the final dyno move is well marginal...
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Zeke the Freak, 8b (http://www.vimeo.com/6618174)
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Nice! looks like a duff sequence though
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Nice! looks like a duff sequence though
Indeed!
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footgae
-
?
(http://www.humourr.com/divers/images-humour/0241.jpg)
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is that the only repsonce i get....?
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US film - The Players
The Players Trailer (http://vimeo.com/4540564)
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US film - The Players
Looks like nice footage. Like the quote from Graham
"A player is someone ... who is obsessed with climbing at an infinite level"
Dave Graham is a man obsessed with bullshit at an infinite level. (Awesome and inspiring though his climbing might be)
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http://verticalcarnival.blogspot.com/2009/10/psicoblog-8-fire-or-water.html (http://verticalcarnival.blogspot.com/2009/10/psicoblog-8-fire-or-water.html)
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this is the best thing i have seen in ages
dig the coments
Bachar solos Leave It To Beaver (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=03udLvtNR6Y&feature=related#ws)
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Dave Graham is a man obsessed with bullshit
It does say "BS Production(s)"
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Chris Sharma na Demencia Senil (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZDoyP644IuA#)
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:o Thats rather impressive :bow:
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:o if you have bigger balls, please step forward now.
Trailer Asgard Jamming (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LxjZL63p19I#)
BD
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Chris Sharma na Demencia Senil (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZDoyP644IuA#)
That ring finger mono really made me cringe! :o Damn......
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:o if you have bigger balls, please step forward now.
:o That first fall looked huuuuge! :bow:
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Forking hell that is so inspiring. Great video post BD - my hands shall sweat freely for the rest of the evening...
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bachars is one of the strongest looks in the vest department that i have ever seen
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Chris Sharma na Demencia Senil (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZDoyP644IuA#)
Fucking hell. No wonder he's world class :jaw: I can see why Action Direct is only 9a in comparison.
The bloody Asgard video is down at the mo??
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Its an intimidating place, theres some loose rock. The climbing is pretty steep, its vertical or overhanging.If you fell off you'd go down about 1000ft
Steph Davies - Castelton & Daimon Solo (http://www.vimeo.com/groups/climbing/videos/3233607)
(Sorry for once I seem to be a technical dunce and can't embed Vimeo, tried plain URL first, URL within the tags, and finally with the URL and text within the tags).
Good video though.
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Steph Davis - Castleton And Diamond Free Solo (http://www.vimeo.com/3233607)
:P
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It's cos your URL is for the groups/climbing/videos path to the video rather than the video itself.
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Its an intimidating place, theres some loose rock. The climbing is pretty steep, its vertical or overhanging.If you fell off you'd go down about 1000ft
Steph Davies - Castelton & Daimon Solo (http://www.vimeo.com/groups/climbing/videos/3233607)
(Sorry for once I seem to be a technical dunce and can't embed Vimeo, tried plain URL first, URL within the tags, and finally with the URL and text within the tags).
Good video though.
Is it the same one as in 'The Sharp End'?
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It's cos your URL is for the groups/climbing/videos path to the video rather than the video itself.
Ah ha! Cheers Jasper, duly noted.
Is it the same one as in 'The Sharp End'?
:shrug: Not seen The Sharp End
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You should watch it - it's a brilliant film, defo in my top 5 climbing movies...
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Supernova free solo: (Warning-Graphic) (http://vimeo.com/7200883)
Ouch!
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Great little watch on Mr McLeod's blog if you've got a spare 9 mins
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Anatole bosio punt-x (http://vimeo.com/7562112)
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Check out this vid of the Ondranator crushing at the Jura. Says it's a preview to a forth coming Ondra film. Couldn't seem to embed it:
http://vimeo.com/groups/climbing/videos/7461120 (http://vimeo.com/groups/climbing/videos/7461120)
There's no subtitles but after climbing Heilige Gral 9a, I think he says something like "I unravelled that shit faster than time travels".
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Here's one of Natalija Gros which would be equally at home in the DFB thread
Climbing, Natalija Gros - Le Tango Vertical (http://vimeo.com/7082256)
Good arse crack shot near the beginning
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Nataliga Gros one debuted in the DFBWGC thread a few weeks ago I think.
Ondra :o :bow: Looks like it could be a great movie, have to keep an eye out (although it looks like he's taken a leaf out of Uncs book with regards to cimbing in pretty forests!).
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johnny dawes back on form
Johnny Dawes - Welsh Connections (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1ZhXQkwcjNw#)
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Like that wall climb on the Ondraburger one - clipping off holds I wouldn't even use as footholds on a slab, looks well cool :)
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It does look amazing.
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It does look amazing.
The Ondra video is incredible.. his heels are almost like another hand at times! Whats nice about the film too, is that despite not understanding a word of it you get the idea that he's really keen and enthusiastic about his climbing... you see a bit of his character come through - which is good.
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:o man I hope that is available soon, looks great, I expect to be impressed!!! :jaw:
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Some fairly good core tension from D Woods
Daniel woods- MYD 8c+ (http://vimeo.com/7455231)
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Easy!
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Note the yank "Venga" at 48 seconds, in the style of Mayor Quimby (http://www.jahozafat.com/php/sounds/?id=bst&media=WAVS&type=TV_Shows&movie=Simpsons"e=ichbin.txt&file=ichbin.wav)
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Some fairly good core tension from D Woods
Looks like there is some pretty painful ground fall potential there? What with rope stretch an' all.. :bow:
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Nice. That one of the routes coming out of the front of the Ali Baba cave? Like the heroin mattress in the background. Adds a real touch of class to the crag :)
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I don't climb to be in beautiful places.
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Inspired by Stubbs' horizontal stamina fest:
(I'm trying to find the footage of him climbing the more famous 'Underground')
Reinis Vibes 8c/8c+ - Lukas Dudek (http://vimeo.com/4834736)
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What, this one?.....
Mrazek - Underground 8c+/9a (5.14c/d) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wMUFUU2kozg#)
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What, this one?.....
No wrong guy...
Here's the trailer, I'm sure I happened across the full footage somewhere.
Underground 9a trailer (http://vimeo.com/6081020)
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BLIND AND NAKED (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dF14cqTwxpQ&feature=player_embedded#)
Amazing video of Erik Weihenmayer, a blind climber, climbing The Naked Edge: Colorado :bow: , such an inspiring attitude
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Nice effort
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Untitled (http://vimeo.com/8166799)
Trailer for Crackoholic
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That looks brilliant, some big whippers in there :o
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Some good-looking clips in that trailer.
Best climbing area in Scandinavia? Some 'Olas' might beg to differ...
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Some good-looking clips in that trailer.
Best climbing area in Scandinavia? Some 'Olas' might beg to differ...
I suspect the filmmaker use superlatives in the american sense. (I.e. as synonyms for the comparative or even the positive form.) Not everyone uses British english you know.
-
well they should. It's the only proper one ;)
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Back to the Roots: M.D.M.C.P. a new 5.13 in Indian Creek (http://www.vimeo.com/8270827)
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Cross thread pollination :D
Looks a fun climb. Offwidth-calibre climbing without an offwidth.
Jonny L. - Back to your roots (By: Rod Roots) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oBtqJgCFgkY#)
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:off:
I'm this close to puntering, Fiend.
Can we have a written disclaimer that must be included in all posts combining the worst, most annoying video with the worst, most annoying audio?
:please:
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:off:
I have to agree - where the feck was the quality chuffing? I admit I only managed to watch about 2 minutes of that guy having some sort of fit on a step before I got bored - is there hidden climbing at the end, or did the guy get taken to hospital?
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Read the title of the video and the one above it ::) Just a bit of fun
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Ondra with a nice easy warm up for an 8c+/9a ;D
ADAM ONDRA - FREEDOM OF MOVE (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HNLb8oIGK7w#)
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Frankenjura 2009 (http://www.vimeo.com/8264138)
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Ondra's belay-bunny deserves a mention surely as a DFBWBelays? :great:
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The trailer for Crackoholic gave me properly swaety hands, looks ace! :thumbsup:
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Ondra's belay-bunny deserves a mention surely as a DFBWBelays? :great:
She's not his belayer. He just takes her to the crag to observe his climbing. Gives you a grade right there. Andi E takes Stubbs. ::)
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Jeewooth doing Cider Soak.
Cider Soak 8a (http://www.vimeo.com/8573135)
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Not sure if this was posted at the time or not, I thought it had been taken off vimeo. The thank god ledge bit looks terrifying!
Alex Honnold Half Dome Free Solo (http://www.vimeo.com/7033935)
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Nice, bit of an odd video really - quite an epic climb, compressed into 3 minutes, including a tour of his van...
Somehow doesn't do it justice
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I think it's just an excerpt from the film made for National Geographic TV
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Patxi climbing Realisation
Patxi Usobiaga climbing Biographie 9a+ (http://vimeo.com/8631168)
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Patxi climbing Realisation
Patxi Usobiaga climbing Biographie 9a+ (http://vimeo.com/8631168)
It's useful that Vimeo videos embed with their title underneath, innit? :lol:
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Patxi climbing Realisation
Patxi Usobiaga climbing Biographie 9a+ (http://vimeo.com/8631168)
It's useful that Vimeo videos embed with their title underneath, innit? :lol:
I saw that, but i am not one of these people that agree it should be called Biogrpahie. ;D
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Ah, but do you refer to the first half as such? If so he climbed both :-\
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I saw that, but i am not one of these people that agree it should be called Biogrpahie. ;D
:agree: french mentalists ;D
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In some ways it's a sensible system.
Just think, you could go round bolting limestone in the UK and naming stuff "Ryan's cock's so small, you can't see it at all" and "Mick the twunt". Then when someone finally does it the name sticks, and has to get put in guidebooks.
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Personally I think it's a bit daft. If I hadn't climbed any of the routes I've bolted, then I wouldn't expect to be able to name them. Until that time, they will be called 'Project'.
Luckily all of the routes I've bolted I've been able to climb, so I haven't come across this issue; however Like you say what's to stop me spotting some mint new mega line in Ceuse or Buoux sticking some bolts on it and calling it 'GCW dresses like a frenchman'? ;D
Surely any fool can bolt a route, climbing a 9a or whatever requires slightly more technique and therefore the right to name it...
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I agree, it's stupid and only seems to be applied when foreign climbers crush the Frenchies' projects.........
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Never mind all that, what was with that shit music!?!
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Divided Years (http://www.vimeo.com/8746682)
Some nice amateur footage.
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Cool he actually makes it look quite tricky, unlike Macleod in whichever film it was who absolutely paths it!
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Go Ricky :bow: :thumbsup:
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I love that video. Not sure I'd want to test that pecker at 3.38 though! Although i think someody has! Bon effort.
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That was great.
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Inspiring stuff...
Orbayu (English) (http://vimeo.com/6737334)
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IKER POU (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1u5zapdq1w4#)
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Monster. I love the partial 1 armer move off the ground to shock the body :thumbsup:
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I couldn't find a 'How-to-fuck-up-a-potential-Quality Chuffing vid' thread so I've stuck it here. The cunts responsible are named at the end.
Maja Vidmar in Attila lunga 8c+ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zznLz_zWxyo&feature=player_embedded#)
Shame really as I like watching people like Maja climb for technical insight, as well as the obvious.
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I couldn't find a 'How-to-fuck-up-a-potential-Quality Chuffing vid' thread so I've stuck it here. The cunts responsible are named at the end.
I must say I was expecting something a bit more dramatic to happen from reading your intro, maybe missing chains or someone stealing ropes etc etc..
Guess I have an over-active imagination :whistle:
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looks like it could be interesting...
starring Natalija Gros :thumbsup:
Natalija Gros - New Dimension Teaser (http://www.vimeo.com/8960094)<p><a href="http://vimeo.com/8960094">Natalija Gros - New Dimension Teaser</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/filmit">Film IT</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
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Where was the chuffing then? Looked like she drove around for a while then climbed one problem on a boulder?
-
chuffing just because its Natalija Gros...
but yeah I know what you mean
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Upskill Climbing VietBLAM 2009 (Climbing in Vietnam) (http://vimeo.com/7955887)
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Patagonia '10 - Round One (http://www.vimeo.com/8908149)
George Ullrich doing sick things in Patagonia (from his planet fear blog at http://www.planetfear.com/blogs.php?member_author=100971 (http://www.planetfear.com/blogs.php?member_author=100971) )
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New prana vid. Got some bouldering as well.
Chris Sharma: The Legacy Continues (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vVXdC-PY-nw#)
-
some good spanish 9b footage there
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Feet of steel.
Climbing Extreme: 8a+ free solo barefoot 25m (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4jws9P6w8wQ#)
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:bow: I can't comprehend how people climb stuff barefoot. :shrug:
I remember trying to climb a grade 3 or something in Mallorca barefoot when my rock shoes were like ovens - fail. I think my toes ain't strong enough or something, the big girl that I am... I think I evolved from a sheep rather than a monkey.
There's loads of crazy barefoot shizzle going on in 'The Sharp End' too.
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Oldie but goodie, A Dream of White Horses...
Harris and Barber (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0MzENqrxt6M#)
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Pierre Bollinger at Raven Tor
Raven Tor - April 2009 (http://vimeo.com/9257891)
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Classic comment on the Raven Tor clip left by 'Anonymous' on Bjorn Pohl's site:
'THAT'S RAVEN TOR? Are you serious? An 8 meter tall slab? Moffat named his bio after a route with 12 handholds?'
Personally, I thought it made it look pretty good.
-
Personally, I thought it made it look pretty good.
Really? I thought the vid made the tor look damn shitty! having never been there, if it is fact worse than it appears, a bunch of routes are going to disappear off my 'to-do' list...
RJ
-
Personally, I thought it made it look pretty good.
Really? I thought the vid made the tor look damn shitty! having never been there, if it is fact worse than it appears, a bunch of routes are going to disappear off my 'to-do' list...
RJ
Ah, you pulled on and discovered you couldn't hack it.
-
I'd agree that it does make the place look a bit shit (never been there myself either). But just because it looks shit, doesn't necessarily mean it is shit. Look at Dalkey quarry in Dublin as a prime example, looks like crap but has some great climbing. That vid doesn't in any way change my wish to go there some day to try classic stuff like Ben's Roof, Staminaband etc.... (bouldering only mind, not that partial to sport climbing myself)
Interesting to see a vid of the place thats more than just a camera focussed on a climber on an anonymous patch of lime. Good to see a bit more of the crag.
-
Horses for courses and all that but I was really psyched to go to the Tor after watching this. This was the first video of Raven Tor that I've seen that gives you a true flavour of what it's like and I can't wait to go there to boulder as well as try Revelation. It definitely inspired me!
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:agree:
such a strong dude that Pierre Bollinger, saw him climb there last year
skyed up!
-
Dalkey Quarry is waaaaaaaaaaaay better than the Tor :goodidea:
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DIREQUIEM 5.14 R (http://vimeo.com/9488139)
From Sonnie Trotter's blog here (http://sonnietrotter.com/2010/02/16/more-vimeo/).
"...in my opinion its the finest bit of climbing on the headwall..."
-
The most direct and (and thus best?) line, that's for sure, although it does involve a bit more of Requiem than Rhapsody (you can see where Dave Mac was going with the latter, trying to get the most hard climbing out of the wall - when's the Alchemie-Rhapsody link coming though, eh?).
T-shirt off half way is a winning move.
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The Groove (http://www.bigupproductions.com/#/vidplayer/The_Groove/)
-
The Groove (http://www.bigupproductions.com/#/vidplayer/The_Groove/)
Nice flapper!
-
Not being able to see at work, I assume it's part of the Yanks in the Peak section on Dosage 3/4/5?
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That flapper made me feel ill ???
Good footage of the crux bit, would have liked to have seen more.
LOL @ Grimer.
-
Not being able to see at work, I assume it's part of the Yanks in the Peak section on Dosage 3/4/5?
Ah, it's the bit from Progression. Oops.
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The beast that is Iker Pou again!
IKER POU - DEMENCIA SENIL (MONTAJE 2.1) (http://vimeo.com/9519387)
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Absolute Monster.
-
that looks awesome/grim.
-
In Tenayas!
-
What a fucking amazing looking route it is.
-
Sick stuff. That video really doesn't need all the flashy bollox effects, what a waste of awesome footage :spank:
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Sick stuff. That video really doesn't need all the flashy bollox effects, what a waste of awesome footage :spank:
At the risk of getting puntered again for critising climbing footage, I'd have to agree with you. Awesome looking route but over edited footage. I like to watch the slow 'easy' bits in full to see how the uber wads move efficiently and milk the most out of any rests available.
Thought that Tor footage was fantastic. Looked finger-wrecking hard though. When you heading up Kev?
-
Mr G!
Dave Graham on 9a Bunda Ju Fora (http://vimeo.com/9560645)
-
short chilled out video :)
30 Meter | Aufwind (http://vimeo.com/6031493)
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Mr G!
Dave Graham on 9a Bunda Ju Fora
That looks horrible and ugly rock, straight out of the Peak :(. Very bouldering looking though, good effort.
-
That looks horrible and ugly rock, straight out of the Peak
[/quote]
The Peak limestone is quality! Don't bad mouth the Peak! :P
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Trailer for Chuck Fryberger's new flick CORE!
CORE Official Trailer (http://vimeo.com/9803426)
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"Immerse yourself in the glamour" what a tosser, shame his trailers are better than his "flicks". :wank:
-
Something a little different here
http://triaylaurent.com/worklessclimbmore-dvd-video-escalade-guides-espagne.html (http://triaylaurent.com/worklessclimbmore-dvd-video-escalade-guides-espagne.html)
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Sharma on a new project:
Chris Sharma "Shaxi Raxi"- Oliana project (9a+) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5DOk6zGiTbA#noexternalembed)
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What the hell was with the music in that Sharma video!?!?!? They film him playing the trumpet, flute and guitar but choose to put another song over the top! WHY? :'(
-
Cos he's shit? :-\
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VIDEO Part 1: BD athletes Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson attempting to free El Cap's hardest climb (http://vimeo.com/10183589)
VIDEO Part 2: BD athletes Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson attempting to free El Cap's hardest climb (http://vimeo.com/10181825)
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Nice find r-man
Part Deux
VIDEO Part 2: BD athletes Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson attempting to free El Cap's hardest climb (http://vimeo.com/10181825)
Plus a write up from Tommy on the project (http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/athletes/path-of-resistance--tommy-caldwell-and-kevin-jorgeson-attempt-the-first-ascent-of-el-caps-hardest-free-climb).
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That's great. The Astroman of the 21st century.
Type 1 and type 2 fun. (http://kellycordes.wordpress.com/2009/11/02/the-fun-scale/)
-
That 8ft dyno is sick, dude.
-
It's Fucking Hardcore (http://It's Fucking Hardcore) (nicked off of UKC, Shit isn't that Dennis Pennis) - funny
-
link don't work.. :shrug:
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link don't work.. :shrug:
I'd guess its Paul Kaye's "Clucking" video, been posted a few times on here before.
-
quality as in the very fine effort of the climbing but only recorded on my phone.
jordan onsighting dangerous crocs on fri night :bow:
Jordan Buys onsighting Dangerous Crocodile Snogging ,E7 6c. ramshaw rocks. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T8ZJ5AVkCpk#)
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Nice, I like the tenuous stretch for the good hold and the faffing around, makes it special.
-
Not to detract from a superb ascent, but what's the issue with "onsight"?
I take it the injuries are getting better, Nike? Effort :thumbsup:
I'd class it as an on-sight, but that always opens a big can of worms, so let's class it as a very ethically sound ascent (VESA).
-
There have been a few threads on UKC with people spouting all sorts of opinions about what constitutes onsight climbing ( including gems such as: 'If I downclimb after a bit, come back a bit later and toprope the whole thing before coming back on the lead..... can I still 'claim' the onsight? - I kid you not. ) Some posters have however put forward a very strict interpretation of what onsight means ( I -ahem- may have been one of them ). So I guess that's Mark's allusion.
PS John Arran thinks I'm talking bollocks He might have a point :)
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Well, strictly if you've seen photos of it, watched Consumed, been told what the gear is etc it's not onsight. But in this media age it's hard to be so pure.
In my opinion, you take whatever style you feel is best as long as you're honest- as long as you can sleep at night it's fine.
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Seems to me the term has been debased. I'd agree there's room for a little latitude but personally I'd say if you know anything that makes a material difference that isn't already in the guidebook or visible from terra firma (not including binocs) then it isn't onsight. Revelations for example is probably un-onsightable by a Brit - who doesn't know a bit about the moves?- it's too famous.
You could see a few photos of DCS, walk round the top and still do it onsight in my book. After all, what does all that tell you: it's slopey as an elephant's backside, has one big hold in the middle and the ground is quite hard??
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Mr Cassidy
Alan Cassidy on Rollito Sharma extension (http://vimeo.com/10442698)
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Seems to me the term has been debased. I'd agree there's room for a little latitude but personally I'd say if you know anything that makes a material difference that isn't already in the guidebook or visible from terra firma (not including binocs) then it isn't onsight. Revelations for example is probably un-onsightable by a Brit - who doesn't know a bit about the moves?- it's too famous.
You could see a few photos of DCS, walk round the top and still do it onsight in my book. After all, what does all that tell you: it's slopey as an elephant's backside, has one big hold in the middle and the ground is quite hard??
Spot on. It's all about the spirit of the law rather than the letter of the law. Ethical guidelines are an attempt to codify different types of experience and it's the experience that is important (I happen to believe that the journey of discovery experience that is quantified as "on-sight" is the best quality experience).
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Why, thankyou Mr Fiend! :)
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Ben Heason - Meshuga
Ben Heason climbs Meshuga E9 6C Black Rocks, Peak District UK. (http://www.vimeo.com/10589082)
Ben Heason - Photo Shot
Photo Shot F8b (Margalef) (http://www.vimeo.com/10552269)
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I enjoyed this piece of history/nostalgia
http://www.deadpointmag.com/videos/watch/origins-chris-lindner-and-kurt-smith-j-tree (http://www.deadpointmag.com/videos/watch/origins-chris-lindner-and-kurt-smith-j-tree)
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Here's a video I prepared earlier.
Before the trad bells start alarming it is a crack line for some of the route- but the rock is too soft to be trad protected. Honest! :whistle:
Black Seal (http://www.vimeo.com/10570501)
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some JTree action
Origins - Joshua Tree (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=12fg5BLANTE&feature=player_embedded#ws)
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"I think it's possible" (http://vimeo.com/10777252)
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That J-Tree one is cool, sick crux dude just sick.
-
Grome La guerre des nerfs (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GdifoJUK8D0&feature=player_embedded#ws)
Cool clip of Grme Pouvreau on the first repeat of 'La Guerre de nerfs' F9a
-
Cool moves but not so keen on the crabwise linkup line.
-
from the blog of pearson for those ignoring compiler:
FREE RANGE TURKEY_dispatch #6 (http://vimeo.com/11211330)
looks like they used Canon 5d's as well...
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That vid was like 20% climbing, 80% pissing around with camera/video effects... (not that I am saying they were badly done mind)
I hope your vid's will have more climbing in them Paul ;D
-
Cool moves but not so keen on the crabwise linkup line.
Haven't you heard? sideways is the new up.
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That's cool. Does Yuji get younger each year? :o
-
enjoyed that, real mellow clip
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BATTLE IN THE BUBBLE Part Three (http://vimeo.com/11349415)
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That wasn't a video, it was an advert... ;)
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looks pretty inspiring, some cool camera work
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Hurly Burly (http://vimeo.com/11784999)
Potato-eating, purple trouser-wearing eco-warrior on some chipped route in a grotty hole in scotland. Good soundtrack though cha'mone.
-
looks a damn fun route
-
So nicely climbed, it just wants to make you go there! I could ignore chipping for a quality looking set of moves like that...
-
Gritstoned (http://vimeo.com/11801798)
-
Or...."How to top-rope some of the the peaks greatest lines into submission".
-
So nicely climbed, it just wants to make you go there! I could ignore chipping for a quality looking set of moves like that...
Go and try the Rose, I doubt you'll find a better manufactured route anywhere.
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So nicely climbed, it just wants to make you go there! I could ignore chipping for a quality looking set of moves like that...
Go and try the Rose, I doubt you'll find a better manufactured route anywhere.
Indeed, the footage of Jerry cruising it, at the end of Buoux8c is really inspiring(assuming we're talking about the same route!) 8)
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Or...."How to top-rope some of the the peaks greatest lines into submission".
+1.
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just +1?
-
Good vid of Steve McClure on his linkup, Batshadow.
Steve McClure's massive Malham link up (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E_kQlRoUhXk&feature=player_embedded#ws)
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I always love steve's comments either on route, or at the finish:
"Oh, a jug, glory, that's the end of that"
"Where's my belay, you've taken my belay?" "Should I just downclimb..."
:jaw:
Anyone know where I could get a copy of Rock Athlete (the film, not the book) or Boux8c?
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awesome sport climbing - south wales (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRpWKK5chHw#ws)
Not huge quality due to the light, but decently put together, and more specifically, some proper back pr0n for Magpie!
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Danilo Pereyra in Chikane 8c+, Siurana, Spain (short film) (http://vimeo.com/11520818)
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awesome sport climbing - south wales (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRpWKK5chHw#ws)
Not huge quality due to the light, but decently put together, and more specifically, some proper back pr0n for Magpie!
That was bad on so many levels. The music made me want to die. The camera failed to pan with the climber and to top it all off he fell off jugs
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and to top it all off he fell off jugs
Isn't that what sport climbing is all about?
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awesome sport climbing - south wales (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRpWKK5chHw#ws)
Not huge quality due to the light, but decently put together, and more specifically, some proper back pr0n for Magpie!
That was bad on so many levels. The music made me want to die. The camera failed to pan with the climber and to top it all off he fell off jugs
That's a bit harsh isn't it!? Music may not be to everyone's taste but it didn't stop me enjoying what seemed to be a decent vid.
Holds at the end of that route aren't bad but body position is critical. Is there anything worse than falling off a route with the chains in sight but you're too pumped / fatigued to get the route finished?
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awesome sport climbing - south wales (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SRpWKK5chHw#ws)
Not huge quality due to the light, but decently put together, and more specifically, some proper back pr0n for Magpie!
Was wondering where, in South Wales, this venue is?
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Looks like Dinas Rock?
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It is Dinas rock. Details here:
http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/g_book/index.php/Dinas_Rock (http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/g_book/index.php/Dinas_Rock)
and here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1026 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1026)
The route Dean is on in the vid is Sangreal.
Here's a pic of Vickers on the route to the right:
(http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/g_book/images/thumb/d/de/Vickers_Smashed_Rat.jpg/700px-Vickers_Smashed_Rat.jpg)
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Ok not great quality filming I know, but its quality in the way that the dude totally crushes
Jan Hojer Action Directe 9a XI (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hy7nBIlt6Zg&feature=player_embedded#ws)
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Anyone know where I could get a copy of Rock Athlete (the film, not the book) or Boux8c?
[/quote]
Buoux 8c is in the Extreme 80's DVD
-
Oh, it must be on the DVD I've not watched! :wall:
I should really buy that at some point. :great:
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Fire Power 8b (http://vimeo.com/12187837)
4th ascent of Fire Power at the Anvil.
-
Vail Bouldering World Cup
http://www.deadpointmag.com/videos/watch/mens-bouldering-finals (http://www.deadpointmag.com/videos/watch/mens-bouldering-finals)
http://www.deadpointmag.com/videos/watch/womens-bouldering-finals (http://www.deadpointmag.com/videos/watch/womens-bouldering-finals)
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Vail Bouldering World Cup
http://www.deadpointmag.com/videos/watch/mens-bouldering-finals (http://www.deadpointmag.com/videos/watch/mens-bouldering-finals)
http://www.deadpointmag.com/videos/watch/womens-bouldering-finals (http://www.deadpointmag.com/videos/watch/womens-bouldering-finals)
Rope??? I know I'm short sighted but even I can tell this is the wrong place for it... :-\
On another note HD version of Ste's linkup Batshadow can be downloaded at... (earlier post is YouTube only)
https://www.posingproductions.com/trailers.php (https://www.posingproductions.com/trailers.php)
Some good gurns worthy of the gurns thread in that video.
-
Gabriel 5.13
a Chimney
Wyde World (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FG4DZFSZC_A#)
-
Jesus fuck. That's given me indigestion.
Ethan, no offence or anything, but you need a bit of :rtfm: , first that "top-raping the fuck out of established grit trade routes", now this. Come on lad get it sorted.
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Fiend, get real youth.
-
I'm sure this has done the rounds before but
Welsh Connections - Pembroke. Award winning short film - Rock Climbing (http://vimeo.com/10606269)
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See you can do it after all :P
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Livin' AstroGlide (5.14c/d) (http://vimeo.com/12375253)
Looks a cool looking line
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Hosey, you're a legend. You've probably made my week by posting up that video. Forking ace. That bad boy is going dooooooooown on the States trip! What a line, what a thrutch. Mega.
Fiend - you'd love it. You'd be all over it in your 5.10 newtons and socks ;D
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Gabriel 5.13
a Chimney
That is totally class. I like the fact that the footage is silent and very slightly speeded up. Gives it a surreal feel. I reckon that girl must be into some other weird stuff...
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Something I turned up on a French site
Gritstoned (http://www.vimeo.com/11801798)
Which is never gonna work.
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Oh, it did lucky me!
-
Something I turned up on a French site
'twas posted on the previous page.. and was on UKC a few weeks ago.
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Oops, missed that. No harm done.
-
Australia Climbing Adventure_THE MUSICAL_Total Eclipse (http://vimeo.com/12322436)
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Haha, brilliant!
Probably the perfect definition of a "quality chuffing video"!
-
Arms Bazaar with Nellie Milfeld (http://vimeo.com/11974983)
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Not a bad vid, but I was amazed she used a cam in that early crack that looked like a bomber nut would fit perfectly :o
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Not a bad vid, but I was amazed she used a cam in that early crack that looked like a bomber nut would fit perfectly :o
Obviously what she needed was a tricam.
The editing on that was a bit funky 'am I that pissed' in places...
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Bit o'history:
Part 1. Intro to - The Left Wall. Llanberis Pass. Filmed in 1964. ..wmv (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V16cYNaUMew&feature=related#)
Part 2. An ascent of Left Wall in 1964 . Llanberis Pass N Wales. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUzC0HDoRrk&feature=related#)
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Not sure if this one has been posted yet....
Mountain Equipment Preview (http://www.vimeo.com/12124174)
-
Bit o'history:
What a great film.
(and look who uploaded it: clearly the inspiration for many of Edwards' later ascents!)
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This lad is amazing to watch
Climax.tv spotlight on Adam Ondra at Raven Tor (http://www.vimeo.com/13384269)
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http://deadpointmagazine.com/videos/watch/joe-kinder-gorges-du-loup-france (http://deadpointmagazine.com/videos/watch/joe-kinder-gorges-du-loup-france)
-
http://deadpointmagazine.com/videos/watch/colette-mcinerney-horne-lake (http://deadpointmagazine.com/videos/watch/colette-mcinerney-horne-lake)
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Kinga Ociepka - The Turing Test VI 6+ (8b+) (http://vimeo.com/12913849)
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Guido Unterwurzacher: Des Kaisers Neue Kleider (http://vimeo.com/12668042)
-
Not sure if this one has been posted yet....
Mountain Equipment Preview (http://www.vimeo.com/12124174)
sorry to quote a video, but where is that sandstone, looks like Ben Cossey (perhaps?) so Gramps? I gotta get me some of that!
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Mostly Gramps with a bit of Blue Mountains (I think)
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Forget if I ever posted these - possibly my favourite climbing short.
Derek Hersey - Free Solo - pt. 1-3 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b3dTIePeRWc#)
Derek Hersey - Free Solo - pt. 2-3 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wJGFrkWQIHI#)
Derek Hersey - Free Solo - pt. 3-3 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZCuIQgGxYA#)
A touching portrait, the bit with his parents is amazing. Peahound anyone?
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Really enjoyed that documentary JB.
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Really enjoyed that documentary JB.
:agree:
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Squamish in a Day....Eh!!! (http://vimeo.com/13446907)
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Mostly Gramps with a bit of Blue Mountains (I think)
is it as good as it looks?
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The Gramps are everybit as good (and then some more). The Blue Mountains are cool, but a bit glued together. Still excellent though
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There's quite a nice Derek Hersey interview in a book I have somewhere, think it's called the High Lonesome (about various soloing stories) but it may exists elsewhere. Interesting stuff.
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Mostly Gramps with a bit of Blue Mountains (I think)
is it as good as it looks?
To be more specific, the opening shots are of Taipan in the Gramps and the Gross Valley in the blue mountains. Most of the climbing is either on Taipan or at Diamond Falls in the Blueys. Im not sure what the arete is that Ben is on tho
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author=Control freak link=topic=4660.msg272631#msg272631
Im not sure what the arete is that Ben is on tho
Teenager for the CIA? Or possibly some sketchy 28 he put up a while back - I think theres a pic and details in the Cossey bros interview in 'Rock' a few issues ago. The boulder problem you get a quick look at is Dead Heat V11 at Ground Control above Taipan.
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Thanks for the info. Its definately getting bumped up the destinations list.
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Thanks for the info. Its definately getting bumped up the destinations list.
You should bump it to the top of the list - seriously. It is one of those places that is just so good and for both bouldering and routes. I can take or leave the Blueys but theres something magic about the Gramps. I'd swap all Sydney bouldering and the Blueys, Nowra, the lot, just to have the Gramps an hours drive from Sydney. You really don't have to slum it either with the lodges at Mt Zero (10 mins drive from Hollow Moutain Car park) being a really nice, cheap option. Much better than a tent/camper in stapylton campground. Plus theres finally a new bouldering guide which makes everything easy to find. And the Araps are an hour down the road for all your trad, multipitch or Punks in the Gym desires. I really should work for AU Tourism but its so amazing that I gotta spread the love..... ;D
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:agree:
I'll second Carnage about the Gramps. It's about three hours drive from us and even if I only had one day free I'd make the trip rather than stay anywhere near home (we're about 60km SW of Melbourne.) Hopefully my current outbreak of psoriatic arthritis will eventually relent and I can actually get out there and do some climbing again.
PS Stu, have you been over and tried the bouldering at Araps since you've been over here? It is actually rather good!
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I don't know about quality, but this is certainly one of the funniest climbing shorts I've seen in a long time (discounting Rodders' clothing choices at the derry wall :P). DFBWGC sighting at the end too :) Slightly NSFW
Boogie 'til You Poop (http://vimeo.com/13831211)
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I don't know about quality, but this is certainly one of the funniest climbing shorts I've seen in a long time (discounting Rodders' clothing choices at the derry wall :P). DFBWGC sighting at the end too :) Slightly NSFW
Boogie 'til You Poop (http://vimeo.com/13831211)
:lol: hmm dont think I'll climb any offwidths if thats the result...
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:lol: :lol: :lol:
Wad
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I don't know about quality, but this is certainly one of the funniest climbing shorts I've seen in a long time (discounting Rodders' clothing choices at the derry wall :P). DFBWGC sighting at the end too :) Slightly NSFW
Boogie 'til You Poop (http://vimeo.com/13831211)
Cheeky bollocks ron tracksters are coming back in....
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Cheeky, bollock-showing ron-tracksters are coming back in....
-
POU ANAIAK - PANAROMA 8C (bigwall) (http://vimeo.com/14008866)
-
This one's nice:
Alize Dufraisse "Arcadmicien" (http://vimeo.com/14038459)
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This one's nice:
Already been clocked (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10790.msg274047.html#msg274047), but well worth posting again :)
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May have been on before but a search showed nownt so here it is......Jerry on 'You Bet!' fucking classic....
You Bet | Wall Challenge (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q7zY8SugOAY#)
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I'd forgotten he wore THE SHORTS!!!!
-
Spot the shit stains
-
Dynamite clip that. That's a strong look his belayer is sporting.
Didn't some female climbing wad (fliss butler?) do some stunt for You Bet as well? Climbing up the back of some stairs or some shit?
-
That doesn't sound quite as impressive.
-
wasnt streaky on top of the wall telling jerry how long he had as he fucked about yarding on jugs
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BD athlete Nico Favresse on La Reina Mora (8c+) in Siurana, Spain (http://vimeo.com/14185103)
-
that Jerry Vid is awesome, smiled all the way through.
I thought he was just cheating using the holes in the roof to start with, but I guess the route was set that way...
-
is it just me or is the general quality of footage and clips improving daily? Some of the clips in that were mindblowing.
-
:agree:
-
Panaroma - The Climb (http://vimeo.com/14645201)
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Prt. I - Jon Cardwell on Stockboys Revenge 8b+/8c (http://vimeo.com/14524967)
Prt. II - Jon Cardwell on Stockboy's Revenge 8b+/c (http://vimeo.com/14525743)
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Colette on Cantina Boy 13b Rifle, CO (http://vimeo.com/14707745)
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Enough of this sport climbing toss! :P Thought I'd torture myself for a bit while I take a break from thesis writing, then these turned up....
Pembroke Rock Climbing Video--Preposterous Tales, Part 1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qUhjnYl59LU#)
Pembroke Rock Climbing Video--Preposterous Tales, Part 2 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=juvKFGzE9ZA#)
Rock Climbing in Pembroke (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PO30hMh7w7A#)
Not sure what the yellow neck tie is all about...... watersports? Ab tat? Who knows
Gutted that I've not been to Pembroke this year :( :wall:
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Reel Rock 2010 Trailer (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UVRDb1CBh58#ws)
-
I didn't realise Dean Potter had actually fallen while doing free-base, I'd like to see that. What a nutter :o
-
wow, that looked incredible, where/when can I watch it?
I think Dean falls in 'The Sharp End' while freebasing (not 100% on that though, I only recently discovered it and havent spent hours poring over it yet.
Also, does anyone know where I can find a copy of Honnold's alone on the wall video?
/send me a link/send me the file?
Cheers
-
wow, that looked incredible, where/when can I watch it?
Try the URL that is displayed at the end of the clip (http://www.reelrock.com) for more info, you might need to book flights (or wait for ShAFF maybe).
Also, does anyone know where I can find a copy of Honnold's alone on the wall video?
/send me a link/send me the file?
Have a look here (http://tinyurl.com/2uhwqgj) :-* (http://climbingnarc.com/2010/08/first-ascent-the-series-dvd-box-set-now-available/)
-
cheers you sarcastic twunt :P :hug:
unfortunately, I have tried that before, I was really looking for a link that wasn't just trailers...
The 3 DVD package will sell for $49.95 (first ascent series from nat geo - containing alone on the wall) :jaw: I have not got those monies for climbing films...
I did look on the reel rock tour site after posting that though, doesn't look like much is coming to England atm...seems a bit silly really, why wouldnt they at least release the previous years on DVD?
-
The "Alone on the Wall" that you will have seen wasn't supposed to have been released (see here (http://climbingnarc.com/2010/02/update-on-alex-honnolds-alone-on-the-wall-first-ascent-tv-series/)) and would be why you are having trouble finding it.
If you're not willing to pay then try deciphering this anagram "NEST TORR"
(Linking to illegal p2p is discouraged on these forums if I remember correctly).
-
I certainly wouldnt dream of looking for one of those...
but If I had I am certain that I wouldnt have found it anywhere as a nest torr searching for alone on the wall.
Maybe if I didnt search for nat geo: first ascent I would be more successful in not finding anything?
(I'm not even sure that last bit makes sense...)
*EDIT*
Apparently I couldnt find anything under that either...Maybe I'll just have to wait a while.
-
May not appeal to all, but it reminded me of good times:
Scottish Wings (http://www.vimeo.com/13582765)
-
Looking forward to seeing this crushfest!
ADAM ONDRA - a few shots from the movie (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O5GyZOcmHnM&feature=grec_index#ws)
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I saw a picture of the second route in this clip in a Beal magazine advert, and couldn't quite believe it.
Ex-competition star Alex Chabot goes trad climbing in erm... Armenia??
More super amazing first ascents in Armenia (http://vimeo.com/15035336)
-
Love it, mind-blowing rock :thumbsup:
-
nice vid he makes the climbing look like nothing.
-
A bit of a UKBouldering exclusive here. We've just confirmed that The Climbing Works will be showing the 2010 Reel Rock Tour on Sunday 7th November. Time will be 8.30pm. Graeme will likely sort out :beer2: on the night.
As of this moment we're the only place in the U.K. that will be showing it this year. The previous Reel Rocks have been amazing and the 2010 trailer looks class. Especially psyched to see the film of the mad Swiss man that is Ueli Steck.
More details will be on the website soon but I thought I'd give a heads up to UKB.
The trailer is above
"if you don't keep training, you're going to be left behind"
-
lovely vid, looks sswwweeetttt
-
Ueli Stack, the nutters nutter
Ueli Steck - The Swiss Machine (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VUWBbepsdmY&feature=player_embedded#ws)
-
definite nutcase but absolutely amazing achievements. cracking little vid.
-
<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/15624815" width="400" height="225" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/15624815">Iker and Eneko Pou | The Hardest of the Alps # 4 | Climbing Panaroma</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/stcollective">story.teller</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
-
Ueli Steck - The Swiss Machine (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VUWBbepsdmY#ws)
Posted by Gymjones on twitter with an awesome quote of "I'm not better than anyone else I'm just fanatical about training".
-
Also posted a couple of posts above yours ;)
-
A youth stripping the friend out of the slot on Wings of Unreason. He decked out unharmed.
Wings of unreason, deck (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtube_gdata_player&v=gvy4hUFuJiY#ws)
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A youth stripping the friend out of the slot on Wings of Unreason. He decked out unharmed.
Wings of unreason, deck (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtube_gdata_player&v=gvy4hUFuJiY#ws)
Will need a new pair of shoes after that. Probably some new undies too!
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A youth stripping the friend out of the slot on Wings of Unreason. He decked out unharmed.
Wings of unreason, deck (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=youtube_gdata_player&v=gvy4hUFuJiY#ws)
Shit the bed! :o
-
looks like his belayer didn't give him enough slack!
-
Hello guys,
Great chuffing videos here,
I was just looking through some of my downloaded videos on cd, the old Dave Graham Rumney videos, was pretty inspiring, from ClimbX Media, can't find an online link though, I think I downloaded it from someone's blog site, though.
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VIDEO PROFILE: BD athlete Adam Ondra on first ascent of L‘trange Ivresse des Lenteurs (9a+), Cese, France (http://vimeo.com/15966397)
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Not a bad weeks climbing........ :)
-
Very high quality video! Ceuse is so pristine and Ondra is a beast.
-
Watched it without sound but I take it he failed on Three Degrees then? What a punter.
-
Yep! Shit bastard!
-
Yep! Shit bastard!
Even the Quill has done that move... ;)
-
Even Ondra isn't as tall as the Quill!
-
nice cuffing videos are here
thanks for sharing that with us
:spam: Its dinomarcus under a new guise (but promoting poker instead of outdoor design crap), ban the fucker (and their IP address).
There may perhaps be a vulnerability in SMF that is being exploited, off to have a quick check.
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nice videos
thanks for sharing these with us
The fuckers back :wank:
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Worth watching for Petes frace on White Lines.
Curbar Day Out (http://www.vimeo.com/16118161)
-
Short clip i just made of Jordan flashing Balance It Is yesterday.
Balance It Is (http://www.vimeo.com/16202918)
-
Worth watching for Petes frace on White Lines.
Out of curiosity how does the rope appear half-way through White Lines?
-
Worth watching for Petes frace on White Lines.
Out of curiosity how does the rope appear half-way through White Lines?
We chucked it over to Pete after he had done the bold lower wall.
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Ah, ok, thought he might have taken a (BIG) fall and got back on again.
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Ah, ok, thought he might have taken a (BIG) fall and got back on again.
He almost did!
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Nice vids Adam. Captures the fun of those days out well! Keep up the good work - keeps me psyched when I'm stuck behind a computer doing paper work :)
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Nice vids Adam. Captures the fun of those days out well! Keep up the good work - keeps me psyched when I'm stuck behind a computer doing paper work :)
Plenty more to come!
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Plenty more to come!
Excellent! The first two were great. Keep em coming.
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The second part of 5 climbs, 5 islands is about to come on bbc2 scotland. Channel 970 or something like that if you've got sky or here:
http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b00vpg71 (http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b00vpg71)
edit: ^actually it's not. The beeb are making it as hard as possible to watch. It'll appear there eventually when they stick it on iplayer
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Deep water soloing competition in Bilbao. Fine hat sir.
Resumen de la final del I Master Psicobloc BBK (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q7qqPYoJs3M#ws)
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Deep water soloing competition in Bilbao. Fine hat sir.
Cheers - I really enjoyed that...
I was thinking 'DWS in Bilbao?' didn't know of anywhere in Bilbao for DWS... all makes sense now, what a great idea. Shame our seas are so cold ;D
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Go Nacho. The dressing gown's a strong look.
-
The Incredible Hulk - Solar Flare (http://vimeo.com/3746358)
Very American, but the Hulk looks like an incredible place to climb. And Peter Croft is a legend :bow:
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Nice vid. The rock and climbing look brilliant and it looks very well/excessively bolted!
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Deep water soloing competition in Bilbao. Fine hat sir.
Cheers - I really enjoyed that...
I was thinking 'DWS in Bilbao?' didn't know of anywhere in Bilbao for DWS... all makes sense now, what a great idea. Shame our seas are so cold ;D
it would work well over a diving pool. great idea having a dws comp.
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Trailer "The Fanatic Search 2 - A Girl Thing" (http://vimeo.com/16315343)
-
Sweet.
DFBWGC: The Movie
Epic win
-
Very cool clip of a Utah project on UKC: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=58512 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=58512)
Unfortunately restricted to UKC - Slackers can you work your nerd magic and get a working hotlink?
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That Utah climb looks amazing and has got a bit of everthing on it! Made me yearn to go back to the Creek but also brought back fearful memories of laybacking with your feet on frictionless sandstone while trying to place small cams blind that eventually led to a reverse puberty incident!
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Unfortunately restricted to UKC - Slackers can you work your nerd magic and get a working hotlink?
No
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Is it just me or is it really annoying how these American clips always have a tendency to make out some well protected trad route is totally gnarly and you're going to end up in a serious position? That route looked very, very protectable to me and even if it is on micro-cams - then just stick in a couple each time so you have a back-up!
Maybe they just edited what he said that way so it sounded hardcore?
Aside from that - extremely cool/funky looking route. Has it been done nowadays? (Presuming that the footage is at least a year old?)
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It's like at the beginning, where he talks about the first 20ft of the route having no gear, and going into a no-fall situation... A 20ft fall onto a mondo. Good thing he was in the right "headspace", lord only knows what the consequences could have been...
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The Rock Climber - Nikon D3S (http://vimeo.com/10171825)
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Maybe they just edited what he said that way so it sounded hardcore?
Dunno but one New Year about five years ago duncan (of this parish) and I found ourselves sharing the Siurana refugio with Nick Martino: an exceedingly entertaining guy and definitely a non-bullshitter.
Sounds like he just got quoted/edited a bit badly then.
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Aside from that - extremely cool/funky looking route. Has it been done nowadays? (Presuming that the footage is at least a year old?)
This article (http://rockandice.com/articles/spotlight/article/293-nick-martino-gives-all) says it has been done
Great, thanks for that - he's an interesting chap.
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Margalef roofs - "403" second ascent F8c (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MwmLmXUbXpQ&feature=youtu.be&a#ws)
Pretty cool from Dave Mac
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Is it just me or is it really annoying how these American clips always have a tendency to make out some well protected trad route is totally gnarly and you're going to end up in a serious position? That route looked very, very protectable to me and even if it is on micro-cams - then just stick in a couple each time so you have a back-up!
Maybe they just edited what he said that way so it sounded hardcore?
Aside from that - extremely cool/funky looking route. Has it been done nowadays? (Presuming that the footage is at least a year old?)
I've been to Indian Creek a bit and to me the rock looked to be of the deep red varnished solid variety; that said, small cams don't always hold very well in desert sandstone. I ripped three small cams in a row and hit the ground on a route over there (granted, it had obviously soft rock, but I was pretty sure that my top cam would hold a short fall)
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Not sure if this ever got posted.
The Bachar Yerian 5.11c R/X (http://vimeo.com/14878084)
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Another short film i just out together.
The Bottom Line (http://www.vimeo.com/16867185)
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Good video, has BL had many ascents?
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Good video, has BL had many ascents?
Gaz onsighted it, Caff has flashed it. Not sure about any more?
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Nice one Jordan, and fun video, nice and clear on the slopey hell. Good with the sound off too.
-
Good with the sound off too.
;) Not like the music mate?
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G.A.Y. Dance Classics ?
-
G.A.Y. Dance Classics ?
Sounded like d+b to me? :shrug:
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Good vid tho. I'd need to brush up on my breaststroke before tackling that finish.
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Good vid tho. I'd need to brush up on my breaststroke before tackling that finish.
Sorry, was thinking about the other vid! Tune was from the Chemical Bros.
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What no Ndubz?!
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http://www.urbanclimbermag.com/photo-video/videos/the_players_-_chris_sharma/ (http://www.urbanclimbermag.com/photo-video/videos/the_players_-_chris_sharma/)
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arcofruit (http://vimeo.com/16929839)
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Not to bad.
teaser of brush voyage (http://vimeo.com/16941591)
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Nicely shot, badly edited IMO - even for a teaser...
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there's a sitter, but also a rope, so I think it goes here.
Mauro Calibani, italian trad worshipper.
http://www.enove.it/pescefrittodapietro.htm (http://www.enove.it/pescefrittodapietro.htm)
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THE PATH (http://vimeo.com/16381569)
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Good vid! That would be a cheeky whipper at the end if he didn't get to the saving grace jug!
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ESPIADIMONIS (http://vimeo.com/17703630)
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Il frutto del diavolo (http://vimeo.com/17522839)
Tor on steroids
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Pure Imagination (http://vimeo.com/17863785)
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What a beautiful looking route.
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Amazing.
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Never been to the States, always plan to do the Yosemite pilgrimage yet watching that and the Sharma section in Players I found the thought of just going to the Gorge instead creeping into my head, what a stunning place, crag, rock an all. Dunno what it is about sandstone, especially the red stuff....maybe it's my Wirral roots?
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that route looks wicked. the lad doing it seemed like he was struggling from the start but fair play to him he kept it going on what look like ridiculously hard crimps. great effort :great:
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maybe it's my Wirral roots?
I can see the similarities ;)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_dZYIujoAXzg/S-1Qc6KEjLI/AAAAAAAABso/DaB5VdLfvcs/s1600/sthmc_helsby_0010.jpgg)
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3293/2945132476_1a69dfd9e5_z.jpg?zz=1)
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:lol: :lol:
That band of bubbles right of Flake Crack was exactly I was put in mind of, funnily enough.
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I was at the crag power-screaming my way up one of the much easier adjacent routes when that vid was filmed - just one of many amazing crags at the Red. For anyone considering a trip, it's definitely worth it! So much rock with so many stunning lines.
Having spent a bit of time on the East Coast this year, I've been to a few of the better climbing areas over this side, and I'm amazed places like the Red aren't more popular. A lifetime's worth of climbing spread over a huge area. Still a huge amount of untouched buttresses too....so plenty of scope for future development.
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Hmmmm, Flake Crack IS a better line... :thumbsup:
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A fact which should put the whole "line v quality of climbing" argument to bed once and for all. ;D
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Yup as it shows you can have both :P
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:lol:
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:agree:
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Just stumbled across SHEFFIELD CLIMBERS (1946-1949) (http://www.yfaonline.com/yfapublic/assetDetails.cfm?film=4073&keyword=caving&fromSearchValue=fromKeyword&start=1) on Yorkshire Film Archive Online (http://www.yfaonline.com/) :thumbsup:
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Flake crack is amazing!
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Thanks slackers, this is a real gem. In light of recent events at Millstone, look at the wear on footholds used by Tricouni'ed boots (eg 4'13"-5'20"). Those white patches are not chalk!
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That was awesome slackers, a great find.
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A bit more up-to-date than the last video I linked
BD athlete Sonnie Trotter on Lake of Fire (5.13c R), Squamish, Canada (http://vimeo.com/16248492)
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Les dessous de Ganesh [8b+] par Grme Pouvreau (http://www.vimeo.com/18112961)
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Bit of bouldering also. Some extended footage from the Mammut team trip.
Mammut Teamtrip Peak District 2010 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XPY5hFtUW1o#ws)
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Oddly enough, I watched that earlier after seeing it on 8a.nob. I didn't post it because it left me a bit cold, not sure why. Whilst the Mammut tick mark gang obviously had some fun, the video just didn't seem to inspire me at all.
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I kept expecting Westlife to appear on top of the Parthian block.
Agree, proves good film making has more to it than 'clever' camera angles and slow motion. Oh, and Johnny's narrative doesn't relate to the footage either.
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very flash!
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Kinda agree, but wow, the shots of Parthian and Offspring were stunning. Wish it would just sit still for a minute.
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Excellent video, loved pretty much all of it.
my mate found this regarding camera used to get the footage.
http://www.climbingworks.com/the-beta/blog/2010/04/14/I_Want_One/ (http://www.climbingworks.com/the-beta/blog/2010/04/14/I_Want_One/)
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good in some ways but shit in the others...
you barely got to see some of the climbing it was just the camera zooming around then they do a move then another bit by johnny dawes then they are at the top. bit of an odd film i thought. duno if i like it or not,
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BD athlete Alex Honnold onsights two 5.13 cracks in the Utah desert (http://vimeo.com/16246041)
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ADAM ONDRA - DER HEILIGE GRAL 9a (http://vimeo.com/18142222)
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Spray - Chris Lindner (http://vimeo.com/17957099)
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i duno about anyone else but i found that video really annoying. the screaming, the "low impact" when it seems to me quite high impact to drill the rock and leave holes in it, then the cheesey eco bit at the end "we like to pick up others people litter". :wall: :wall:
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I agree with those criticisms, but I could tolerate it because the line and the climbing looked great...
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Well, maybe you disagree with bolting altogether al123, but I thought he came across as genuinely wanting to minimise his impact, even if he might not have gone about it in what everybody would agree to be the best way. Certainly the bit at the end seemed heartfelt.... maybe you should be less cynical (said by a cynic) :P Maybe he shouldn't have driven a pickup along the beach though... :-\
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yeah fair point, i dont disagree with bolting altogether just when he is on about low impact and he is drilling the rock, that seems to me and dare i say it alot of British climbers to be high impact, leaving holes in the rock. im not sure about heartfelt, to me it seemed some bullshit to keep sponsors like timberland or whoever happy so they can keep there green image? "we like to pick up other people's litter" no we dont, we mite do if there is some dropped litter but we dont really enjoy the activity its more of a chore. it felt like a plea for people to realise climbers are mostly nice people or something like that or to help promote climbers as nice people
theres my single minded rant for the day :P
and thats just my opinion on it of course.
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http://arcteryx.com/Video.aspx?EN/video=24-Karats (http://arcteryx.com/Video.aspx?EN/video=24-Karats)
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After watching Honnold in Alone on the Wall on the First Ascent box-set/series I'm seriously impressed with his skills (not that I wasn't before, but that video is mind-blowing) and this is pretty good too, I remember pics of Stevie Haston on Belly Full of Bad Berries from an old OTE and just thinking, that looks well 'ard. He seems to cruise Diddier Berthod's route too...
BD athlete Alex Honnold sending in Indian Creek, Utah (http://vimeo.com/6052030)
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Bit of bouldering also. Some extended footage from the Mammut team trip.
Just seen this. I don't understand why they didn't concentrate on the climbing more. Great footage, but the whole thing is edited like lots of trailers joined together - the real subject is skimmed over. Is there going to be a more detailed film from this, or is that it?
Frustrating to watch - unless it is just a trailer, then it's OK
What's up with that shot at 08.35 ?
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yeah fair point, i don't disagree with bolting altogether just when he is on about low impact and he is drilling the rock, that seems to me and dare i say it alot of British climbers to be high impact, leaving holes in the rock. im not sure about heartfelt, to me it seemed some bullshit to keep sponsors like timberland or whoever happy so they can keep there green image?
I've just watched this vid and I think he genuinely did what he thought was best. If he'd left bolts in then they would have rusted pretty quickly leaving much nastier scars than just the line of empty holes that he left. I'm not a trad climber though so I have no idea whether this line would have been possible on gear instead...
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Nice film (link via AdamL's tweets) about Hodge close..
Below Ground (http://vimeo.com/17573590)
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yeah fair point, i don't disagree with bolting altogether just when he is on about low impact and he is drilling the rock, that seems to me and dare i say it alot of British climbers to be high impact, leaving holes in the rock. im not sure about heartfelt, to me it seemed some bullshit to keep sponsors like timberland or whoever happy so they can keep there green image?
I've just watched this vid and I think he genuinely did what he thought was best. If he'd left bolts in then they would have rusted pretty quickly leaving much nastier scars than just the line of empty holes that he left. I'm not a trad climber though so I have no idea whether this line would have been possible on gear instead...
Andy, of course it's possible on trad gear(or lack of it).
I can remember Knockin on Heaven's door being called 'that impossible slab near Elder Crack' and then along came Andy. And now Ryan. You can add your pick of lines throughout the recorded history of rock climbing from the Grit, Northumberland, Wales, The Lakes, Colorado etc.... The question is one of personal courage; to accept the risk to life and limb, accept that one has limitations, and to perhaps resist peer and sponsor pressure to be a 'radical duuuude'. Chipping (for that is what he has effectively done to create protection where he couldn't find any trad palcement) and then claiming a low impact approach is hypocritical twaddle.
How would a 'punter' have been treated had they done this?
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What's up with that shot at 08.35 ?
Just spat tea over desk :oops:
Also realised that none of the climbers speak in the mammut vid, bar that one cringeworthy exchange between JD and one of the blonde euros. That's got to add to the soulless feel, it's like they're just mannequins. Don't think any of them showed an iota of emotion at any point either. Feels like the complete antithesis to the Ganesh vid which I thought was brilliant.
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I really enjoyed the Ganesh film. One of the best shorts i have seen in ages. Good find.
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What's up with that shot at 08.35 ?
11.54: Heel use on Green Traverse. Disgraceful.
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ADAM ONDRA - Working Golpe de Estado in Siurana (http://vimeo.com/17904026)
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he still deserves a slap for the screaming
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(http://images.asadart.com/sources/com/halloweenexpress/images/products/ru4195.jpg)
Sounded like Chewbacca was on holiday in Spain. If A.O. used a bit more conditioner on his locks you could confuse the two.
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I smile to think of the good people of Siurana being in bed well before nightfall and staying on the road lest the Beast of the Crags comes for them.
Beware the moon!
-
Ganesh video is great.
I quite like the Ondra one, some sick moves being pulled there.
-
Sport Climbing with Joe Kinder (http://vimeo.com/19043883)
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Some rather hard looking climbing, a bit of a paddy and the best quote ever: "How could i get so pumped". Its a flippin 9b and he's complaining about being boxed, obviously never happened to him before!
ADAM ONDRA - Working Golpe de Estado in Siurana (http://vimeo.com/17904026)
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Scroll up Doylo!!
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The video Doyle posted is way better than the one Ethan posted, direct comparison!
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I swear i scrolled up before posting it, must be blind!
Ondra is surprised and can't believe it when he gets pumped. I'm surprised when i don't get pumped. The two occurences are probably as rare as one another.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=i6EzpBaKYTs# (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=i6EzpBaKYTs#)
It is the Gri-gri 2 advert but there's some good footage. Where's Ali-baba?
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Where's Ali-baba?
Hiding from the 40 theives. :P
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Where's Ali-baba?
Aiglun in Southern France : http://rockandice.com/news/1122-nina-la-machina (http://rockandice.com/news/1122-nina-la-machina)
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Wonderwall (English subtitles) (http://vimeo.com/19873536)
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For heavens sake. Don't let Beastio see that.
The footage is great but the subtitles are basically 5 minutes of shortarse bitching by a (not even a) teenager. Its like climbing with Nik.
"I have to make 23 moves to get to the 1st bolt"
fuck me, wait till you get some lactic, you little basket.
Seriously impressive though.
:'(
oh, and :alky: (obvioshly). Chin chin.
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I was going to point out that with hands that small, all the holds must be like buckets. Then I saw some of the holds are small in comparison to his hands, which must make them really, really small :o
-
Brilliant short from DMM...
Equal to Everybody Else (http://dmmclimbing.com/video.asp?id=10)
:thumbsup: :bow:
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Cool looking route.
http://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-videos/watch/cody-roth-climbing-croatia (http://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-videos/watch/cody-roth-climbing-croatia)
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Alex Honnold free solo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pt8yZCXNJFE&feature=player_detailpage#)
Alex Honnold soloing Astroman and The Rostrum.
-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8cFdX1ypCXA&feature=player_embedded#at=215 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8cFdX1ypCXA&feature=player_embedded#at=215)
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God, Dreamcatcher is such a line... Looking for some more info led me to http://sendage.com/ (http://sendage.com/) which is like 8a.nu but pretty and seemingly not run by a complete prick. Anyone use it?
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That is quite well put together although I'm not keen on the Facebook stuff for comments etc as I don't use it HANG ON A MINUTE!!!!!
It uses V grades.....in Font.
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You can change that in your account settings. I don't think it can cope with using V grades and Font grades on the same ticklist though.
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Dave MacLeod & Tim Emmett climbing sea cliffs in Pembroke, UK (http://vimeo.com/20296746)
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Not them two AGAIN ;) :P
Good stuff but wanted to see a lot more of the route...
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tim shoudnt be allowed to talk on videos
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emilio comici (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6u69RdfqytM#)
Emilio Comici in 1936 running up some routes and looking very dapper (plus 4s have to be due a revival).
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(http://static.guim.co.uk/sys-images/Media/Pix/pictures/2008/03/31/jazz220.jpg)
Nice!
-
That's brilliant
looking very dapper (plus 4s have to be due a revival).
One I started climbing the piece of kit I coveted above all else was a pair of proper tweed britches. Man, they were the thing. Mind you, you still saw people using hemp ropes back then.
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Brett Perkins climbing Proper Soul (5.14a) on gear (http://vimeo.com/20027409)
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Very good indeed :thumbsup:
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I really don't understand why you would want to do this unless the bolts were to come out. I watched 30 seconds and switched off BTW
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Different sort of challenge I suppose, though admittedly a slightly artificial one with the bolts still in place.
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I really don't understand why you would want to do this unless the bolts were to come out. I watched 30 seconds and switched off BTW
:fishing: ?
Would you have watched if he were clipping the bolts? Regardless of how he chooses to protect the climbing it looks like a pretty nice line, and its climbed well.
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I'll watch it again to make up for Dylan.
-
Nalle Hukkatavial on the Grit (http://vimeo.com/20801552)
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I really don't understand why you would want to do this unless the bolts were to come out. I watched 30 seconds and switched off BTW
:fishing: ?
Would you have watched if he were clipping the bolts? Regardless of how he chooses to protect the climbing it looks like a pretty nice line, and its climbed well.
If it was an interesting sport route then yes I would have watched it. I just don't see the point. I'm guessing he practiced the route on the bolts :-\.
-
Kind of like a red-head-point then? :shrug:
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Kinda like practising a cutting edge trad route before a lead.....errr.... :shrug:
-
Ondra en Etxauri (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=fdfP5aoFEvQ#ws)
-
I smile to think of the good people of Siurana being in bed well before nightfall and staying on the road lest the Beast of the Crags comes for them.
Beware the moon!
i think they might have heard him in Cornudella!
does he ever rest when working stuff?
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Looks like a slab with good finger flakes. And his nose is very red.
Good effort though!!
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Kind of like a red-head-point then? :shrug:
isnt that just a headpoint for gingers? :-\
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Kind of like a red-head-point then? :shrug:
isnt that just a headpoint for gingers? :-\
:thumbsup: had that in mind when I typed it.
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Kind of like a red-head-point then? :shrug:
isnt that just a headpoint for gingers? :-\
:thumbsup: had that in mind when I typed it.
great minds think alike ;)
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Top Gun High Five (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uAopLTK4qVs#)
-
Keenus's thing in bank quarry
The Return Of The Jedi.mp4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2hta8V7tPHU#)
from
http://realbigpimp.in/?p=1255 (http://realbigpimp.in/?p=1255)
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About a girl - version english (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VVLPwa-RywA#ws)
-
Class.
-
Class.
Indeed. And one of my favourite DFBWGC too.
-
Keenus's thing in bank quarry
The Return Of The Jedi.mp4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2hta8V7tPHU#)
from
http://realbigpimp.in/?p=1255 (http://realbigpimp.in/?p=1255)
is it just me or did anyone else laugh at this?
-
Keenus's thing in bank quarry
The Return Of The Jedi.mp4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2hta8V7tPHU#)
from
http://realbigpimp.in/?p=1255 (http://realbigpimp.in/?p=1255)
is it just me or did anyone else laugh at this?
I thought the route looked like a great line and would be whether it was in a dirty little quarry or along a grit edge, especially in the photos in his original blog and I even had a short vid to watch on a busy Friday night stuck in the wall which was nice.
As for the new website... well, vanity never goes down too well with us Brits does it?..I mean some of those shots made me think what a :wank: and I got a little bitchy inside but then I thought he's playing the game of sponsorship and I guess that's the nature of the beast if you want to climb and travel the world for free for the likes of TNF these days (is it, how the fuck should I know?) and to be honest he can do whatever the fuck he wants because his blog certainly isn't aimed at the likes of me. Now where are my blue rimmed shades..... :P
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I've only got one beef with JP but it's a deal-breaker I'm afraid: ankle warmers. They looked crap in flashdance, but at least she was pretty fit.
-
:P was meant to be a :-*
-
JP's website looks right tidy, I'm especially loving the gallery. As for the accusation of vanity, if I thought I could get sponsorship and bum about climbing I'd be oiling up the guns, hitting the sunbed and shaving my pubes into the logo of the highest paying sponsor.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hahDRieyNkE&feature=player_embedded#at=545 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hahDRieyNkE&feature=player_embedded#at=545)
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BEST COAST RIOT (http://vimeo.com/21387283)
-
Whoa, double rainbow!!! Just whoa, dude!!
Looks good, will watch later cheers.
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Editing where they miss out half the moves spoils it. Abstract is a superb line.
-
Editing where they miss out half the moves spoils it. Abstract is a superb line.
Perhaps they were purposefully edited as the footage will be used in a DVD release. :shrug:
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That's what I thought because the overall vibe and the general shooting was good.
-
Hold on to your hats itssss Franco..
(http://vimeo.com/21420505/url)
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Lucky boy.
-
Pretty chuffed with this one ;D
Master's Edge (http://www.vimeo.com/21436773)
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Hold on to your hats itssss Franco..
Relentlessly self-promoting over-opinionated little turd falls off route and the UKC forum has hysterics about it. NEWS. :thumbsdown:
I wish that there was a filter on UKC to automatically block such trivialities, and I hope you have the common decency to move that post to the Shit Heap, IO1.
-
Good effort Jacob. From the other thread I was wondering whether you'd need a puntering for top-roping a trade route or a wadding for climbing it in normal style, pleased to see it's the latter. I like the uncertainty just above the shot holes. You look quite tall on the last move.
-
and I hope you have the common decency to move that post to the Shit Heap, IO1.
:tease:
-
It may be many things, but it sure ain't quality.
-
This 'Jack' fellow didn't even have the journalistic integrity to keep filming? :no: :slap:
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I doubt I would be able to switch my video off that quickly.....
-
I'm sure you could stop pointing and focusing it at your mate who's just decked out pretty quickly though, perhaps even put it down and get to the base as quickly as possible to see what you can do to help (in effect stopping filming).
-
I'm sure you could stop pointing and focusing it at your mate who's just decked out pretty quickly though, perhaps even put it down and get to the base as quickly as possible to see what you can do to help (in effect stopping filming).
That was my point, I would suspect the landing would be on film but just not be shown. Which is fair enough. Plus then having film after the impact from the same place suggests that the camera person didn't run down to see if he was OK.
Still doesn't make it news though.
-
I'm sure you could stop pointing and focusing it at your mate who's just decked out pretty quickly though, perhaps even put it down and get to the base as quickly as possible to see what you can do to help (in effect stopping filming).
That was my point, I would suspect the landing would be on film but just not be shown. Which is fair enough.
Still doesn't make it news though.
My misunderstanding.
-
I doubt I would be able to switch my video off that quickly.....
Especially with your butter/sausage fingers. Plus you'd be too busy trying to fold your 3-way pan-headed tilt-titanium tri pod before pelting it down the hill... :P
-
Wipeout 8c/8c+, Gimmelwald (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IHpFHoqD0ZM&feature=feedrec_grec_index#ws)
-
NO NUMBERS (http://vimeo.com/20574103)
-
quality video - but much better with sound off...
-
Should probably be in DFBWGC!
-
BD athlete Adam Ondra onsights Mind Control (8c+), Oliana, Spain (http://vimeo.com/21939923)
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:o :clap2: :bow: and it was wet! :ohmy:
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He could have had the decency to make it look a bit tricky. :blink:
-
Pirmin Bertle sending "Jungle speed", 9a, in Siurana the 23.03.11 (http://vimeo.com/21842332)
-
I think Pirmin Bertle is a pretty cool name too.
-
Amazing looking route.
-
It's weird watching ondra on these 8c+s.you watch with the grade in mind and its bizarre as theres just not much indication of how hard the moves are.you can't tell if he s doing a font 7b move or a font 8a move,he just looks the same most the way up and doesn't look at his limit.he cant be if hes doing routes with wet sections!
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Je est un autre (http://vimeo.com/21518632)
-
It's weird watching ondra on these 8c+s.you watch with the grade in mind and its bizarre as theres just not much indication of how hard the moves are.you can't tell if he s doing a font 7b move or a font 8a move,he just looks the same most the way up and doesn't look at his limit.he cant be if hes doing routes with wet sections!
Indeed. Still good though. Good filming, nice to see almost all the route. He looked a little bit under pressure at the top...
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Jungle Speed looks like someone spilled orange paint down the rubicon wall....
Looks cool but the filming is scrappy, too many angle cuts, just show the climbing goddamit.
-
Cool looking route.
Demon Seed (http://vimeo.com/15843768)
-
agreed, good ramping and lovely looking rock
-
Nice route but not so sure about the cigarette. I don't think it's possible to smoke and climb at the same time without looking like a d!ck. :spank: :thumbsdown: :badidea: :shit: :wank: :( :-\
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oh I dont know, that casual looking chap in the BMC burbage guide on green death has got it down.
I didn't think it was a beer at the start either at first, more like one of those cans of energy drink that confuse the po po
-
I didn't think it was a beer at the start
its a PBR http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pabst_Blue_Ribbon (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pabst_Blue_Ribbon)
a bit like a budweiser i guess, but for some reason seems to be considered slightly cooler (still pretty crap beer)
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It's the hipster's choice! As I understood it, its popularity in the states was more due to its cheapness than its quality.
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A Day At High Rocks (http://vimeo.com/22366786)
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Nice!
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No Buoux style tears to the eye Jasper?
Never went to High Rocks, maybe should try and get there when we go visit family in Surrey next month.
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Would love to climb at High Rocks if it didn't cost 10 per visit!
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If you go to High Rocks a top roping kit would be handy. Never did any but the routes look brilliant, really inspiring.
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Would love to climb at High Rocks if it didn't cost 10 per visit!
Crazy that it's come to that. However, when you think about how much most climbing walls in London charge then maybe it's not so bad........
No Buoux style tears to the eye Jasper?
Never went to High Rocks, maybe should try and get there when we go visit family in Surrey next month.
Look, as much as I love High Rocks even I'm not going to compare it to Buoux. ;)
Go! But like grimer says, take a rope as well as a mat.
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Haven't been down to High since my return from Oz, looks in really good nick.
I'm with Jasper 10 for a day there or ?? for a wall in London- no brainer really. On the plus side the price does keep the twats out......
Edit- Forgot to add good effort that lad!
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I was there last week.chimaera is a cool line .the ten quid thing is ridiculous.
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It's gone up and up because of the owner getting pissed off with twats not paying and breaking in apparently.
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I'm with Jasper 10 for a day there or ?? for a wall in London- no brainer really.
It works at about 6 to go to the wall with my annual membership, and its 15 minutes on my bike, rather than an hour+ in the car, so in some ways it is a no brainer. I just can't get my head around the idea of having to pay to climb outside, and as such will be attempting to find some free southern sandstone quality to boulder on this spring, I don't rate my chances!
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I just can't get my head around the idea of having to pay to climb outside, and as such will be attempting to find some free southern sandstone quality to boulder on this spring, I don't rate my chances!
Just move to somewhere north of Birmingham.
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I'm with Jasper 10 for a day there or ?? for a wall in London- no brainer really.
It works at about 6 to go to the wall with my annual membership, and its 15 minutes on my bike, rather than an hour+ in the car, so in some ways it is a no brainer. I just can't get my head around the idea of having to pay to climb outside, and as such will be attempting to find some free southern sandstone quality to boulder on this spring, I don't rate my chances!
Fair play 6 a pop is a good deal for London.
Personally I think Sandstone has some really good bouldering, but let's be honest it's no Font.
The whole 10 a pop thing has been discussed already on here I'll probably go for a season ticket which works out a bit cheaper. High Rocks is private & the owner considered banning all climbing so I think we are lucky to have any access.
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<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/22417635" width="400" height="300" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/22417635">Climb de Rock 2- Bermuda Deep Water Solo</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user2236046">Davie Crawford</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3vRXXCSm8Vo&feature=player_embedded#at=118 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3vRXXCSm8Vo&feature=player_embedded#at=118)
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Hardest of the Alps (http://vimeo.com/22990491)
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wow - that narrator could not be more full of bullshit if he wanted.
that video is incredible however.
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The Scene Official Trailer (http://vimeo.com/23320585)
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http://www.thenorthfacejournal.com/muy-caliente-with-james-pearson/#ooid=o1b3BmMjqpyQQL9srrHodWAyOXSBmzXj (http://www.thenorthfacejournal.com/muy-caliente-with-james-pearson/#ooid=o1b3BmMjqpyQQL9srrHodWAyOXSBmzXj)
Sorry, couldn't make it embed...
Pearson on Caliente
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I haven't been a huge fan of the Fryberger films - Pure and Core - good, but more about the visuals than the content in my opinion....however, The Scene looks GOOOOOD!
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Yeh, The Scene does look good. Was that Moffat's name I saw in the credits?
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Ye i noticed that, wonder if they convinced him to dust off his Ninjas
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I haven't been a huge fan of the Fryberger films - Pure and Core - good, but more about the visuals than the content in my opinion....however, The Scene looks GOOOOOD!
I think his films are dreadful! I really hate the choppy editing and 'advert' style slo-mo. And this doesn't look to be any different. Same bods being all cool and lifestylee at the Buttermilks etc etc. I certainly won't being downloading a pirate copy :yawn:
Lookin forward to the Outcrop films flick whenever that 'drops'...
and this: COLD - TRAILER (http://vimeo.com/23336972)
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Ooh, I dunno, those americans can be so cheesy. Good to know the brits are keeping it real in the death zone though:
Kenton Cool unboxes the Samsung Galaxy S II on Everest (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P8d7Rb7XKEk#ws)
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what a bellend - I wasnt a fan when I heard him talk.
Even less so now.
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Hope he picked up and took the packaging with him.
I don't really begrudge him, he's sucking corporate cock so he can do what he wants to do. Shame its not something different from the previous eight ascents of the same peak.
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its super. what a :shit: cock sucker
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I've never had to do this before, but this was actual response:
(http://lolpics.se/pics/482.jpg)
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Not watched the vid, as heard it's just one big shit commercial, but good on the boy, making decent money as opposed to a free pair of shoes.
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The Cider Soak 8a (http://vimeo.com/23170027)
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BD athlete Adam Ondra making the first ascent of Chaxi Raxi (9b) at Oliana, Spain (http://vimeo.com/23695460)
:o :o beast beast beast
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Origins - The Hulk (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGA1vI2HxTs#ws)
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Rad trad F8b crack....
The doors - Cadarese (http://vimeo.com/23823477)
Looks lovely. Someone get Keenus over there ;)
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He's already been.....
This venue looks awesome, I'm very keen to visit next year when current plans are done and dusted. There's even some nasty offwidths to climb there as well! :tumble:
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<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/23695460?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" width="400" height="225" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/23695460">BD athlete Adam Ondra making the first ascent of Chaxi Raxi (9b) at Oliana, Spain</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/blackdiamond">Black Diamond Equipment</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
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Sorry, didnt see the other one. Good to see him trying hard!
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OsVl_rzkcx0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rmx9lCeI1ys
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vXWYScXZedI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WnDjh1X_qZQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_PB5rnu4MGY
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Tiger Blood sneak peak (http://vimeo.com/23397084)
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Raki on the rocks - Climbing in Turkey (http://vimeo.com/23838315)
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Thanks for those last 2....esp inspiring to see the guy with cystic fibrosis send an 8b+!
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The Ali Nomad 5.14b, First Ascent in Clear Creek Canyon (http://vimeo.com/24242437)
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http://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-videos/watch/tom-bolger-climbing-ciudad-del-dios-9a (http://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-videos/watch/tom-bolger-climbing-ciudad-del-dios-9a)
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http://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-videos/watch/tom-bolger-climbing-ciudad-del-dios-9a (http://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-videos/watch/tom-bolger-climbing-ciudad-del-dios-9a)
Ace video of Tom! Looks a tad pumpy
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Yeah wicked footage from Mr Kinder there.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mAtgpwO3p34&feature=player_embedded#at=119 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mAtgpwO3p34&feature=player_embedded#at=119)
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Gaz stuck this on FB yesterday. Forgot how good it was.
The Quarryman 5.11d, E8, 7a (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lLyF8zcP674&feature=fvsr#)
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Isn't 5.11d about 7a? :-\
Have seen that so many times but yeah, it's still good.
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It doesn't seem right without the original music
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Ah I've got no sound here so didn't know. Original soundtrack is quality.
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It doesn't seem right without the original music
I know, just shows you how important the music is. I found that clip a bit boring to watch without Zappa. I presume it was edited to fit in with Zappa originally and that's just a tune stuck over the top.
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I am correct in thinking that the DVD doesn't have the original music on it? I'd buy it if it did. I've got a old copy on VHS somewhere
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nah, the dvd still has the zappa song on it. it makes the movie really ;)
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Original soundtrack is quality.
Indeed, made the film.
Johnny tumbles
Johnny falls
Under slogans
Off the wall....
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Slate (http://vimeo.com/24482757)
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Cool stuff. Nice to see a less flamboyant climber on it. The start looks disgusting. I wonder who is going to do a painting where that flake was?? ;)
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http://twitter.com/@johnredhead (http://twitter.com/@johnredhead) ? :-\ ;)
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Nice to see a less flamboyant climber on it.
Yeah, interesting. I recall Johnny in an interview saying that everybody who had repeated it had also done the throwing-both-feet-up-sideways manoeuvre. Not any more, apparently.
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This is a private video on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/24461554)
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Tom Bolger Climbing Ciudad del Dios (http://www.dpmclimbing.com/climbing-videos/watch/tom-bolger-climbing-ciudad-del-dios-9a)
Heather Robinson: Balance (http://vimeo.com/23390440)
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Not amazing footage but some cool routes at Dinbren including me almost falling off every move on a route!
Good day at Dinbren (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xAcOmuEg7Ow#)
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Smith rock(s) (http://vimeo.com/18169233)
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Marmot Rocks North Wales (http://vimeo.com/24931434)
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That vertical sailing series was just brilliant. Puts it all into perspective I think. Makes you want to go and do some proper climbing. The Skipper seems like an absolute hero
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Jonathan Siegrist Maxim Dynamic Ropes (http://vimeo.com/25468773)
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VIDEO: BD athlete Adam Ondra repeating Chilam Balam (9b) and making the first ascent of La Planta de Shiva (9b) in Spain (http://vimeo.com/25514787)
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:o :clap2:
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amazing looking routes!
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amazing looking routes!
And only half an hour from my house - as of 2nd August. Sooooooo excited, but 9b may be a bit off yet :bounce:
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ondras endurance is incredible!
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And his mind control. Exposure and runouts don't seem to effect his performance at all.
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I think it is fantastic that we are able to download for free - high quality videos of contemporary, cutting edge climbing. As one who resisted the temptation to hot foot it to Malham recently, Ive not had the privilege of watching the Ondrawad cranking for real. So this is very much the next best thing.
I know he is prone to the odd power scream perhaps the only aspect of his climbing I can fully relate to but for capturing the sheer effort and difficulty involved, that footage of the upper section of La Planta de Shiva is the best of Ondra Ive seen.
So far, so good.
But, is it just me, or does anyone else find the short burst editing on the Chiliam Balam part of the film incredibly irritating? Short crucial points of the climbing are missed out what about the huge horizontal runout he must do at some point. We see the aftermath, as he hangs gracefully from a tufa, with the rope stretching uselessly to a bolt which looks about 20ft horizontally to his right, but Id love to have seen how he got there.
I really hope a fuller edit gets released at some point. And given the speed he climbs it probably wont be that much longer anyway.
Actually, watching these recent films of Ondra, the thing which strikes me the most, isnt his superhuman strength and stamina, it is the way he reads the rock, and the sheer speed and fluidity of his movement. Most of the time when you watch people doing hard routes, particularly when they are onsighting, they adjust on holds all the time. But the Ondrawad hardly ever does, which makes watching him climb so unusual, and so much more compelling.
Last point. Who else remembers when Chilam Balam was first climbed, and did you think the ascent was credible at that time? I remember it well, and I certainly believed Bernabe had climbed it at the time and I still do, as it happens. The reason was that the reports at the time described a history of attempts which seemed way more extreme than anything Id ever heard of before (something like trying it 5 days a week for 2.5 years the detail may be wrong, but you get the point). I dont think Bernabes credentials as a cutting edge sport climber were ever in doubt, so it seemed logical to me that it you tried something that much, it was probably a couple of grades harder than what you had achieved with a more conventional approach.
There was also the issue of the length of the pitch which was almost unprecedented at the time.
I thought that the climbing looked exceptional, conceiving of a pitch so long was revolutionary, and it was a great shame that it became mired in controversy as a result of a possibly over-inflated grade.
Of course others may disagree, and I only formed this opinion based on what I read and saw at the time, rather than any first hand knowledge of the places or the people involved.
But I was chuffed to see Bernabe in the film, sitting watching Ondra roasting his lifes work, and resurrecting it from the dead in the process
Neil
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But, is it just me, or does anyone else find the short burst editing on the Chiliam Balam part of the film incredibly irritating? Short crucial points of the climbing are missed out what about the huge horizontal runout he must do at some point. We see the aftermath, as he hangs gracefully from a tufa, with the rope stretching uselessly to a bolt which looks about 20ft horizontally to his right, but Id love to have seen how he got there.
I really hope a fuller edit gets released at some point. And given the speed he climbs it probably wont be that much longer anyway.
I found the jumping a bit irritating too.
Could be it was footage pieced together from earlier attempts working the route, and then the last section topping out from the full ascent (although I'd expect a professional camera man to be in place and ready for each attempt)
Or....
I think it is fantastic that we are able to download for free - high quality videos of contemporary, cutting edge climbing.
....perhaps they're keeping the full edit for a more traditional full-length feature which you might have to fork out a few fuck-alls for. :shrug:
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Yeah seeing Bernabe sitting there was refreshing, he obviously doesn't care about the naysayers one bit. I personally believe he did the first ascent and I guess Ondra may do too seeing them chatting below the route.
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wow. Good to see he knows how to try hard. Phenomenal. Just completely unfazed by running it out a bit. Amazing focus.
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:o
La Planta de Shiva looks so hard!, he was giving it everything on the last few moves!
What a monster! :bow:
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I bet there's a known amount of time that people will look at free videos on the web for, even ones like this, and overall it's best to keep it within the time frame. In that video my interest didn't lapse for a moment which is a real achievement and great skills by Bernardo i think. Lots of times have there been people's videos on here and you can see it's 8 or 9 minutes long so as soon as it lags I click away, and that can be after 20 seconds sometime.
I think brevity is a great aspect of anything like that. And maybe, like Neil, i too wanted to see the section under the roof (fuck me :o) but when creating something surely that feeling of wanting to see more is one of the most desirable outcomes. And maybe that's the thing: Bernardo is trying to create an impression of the climb, not record an ascent?
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amazing looking routes, La Planta de Shiva looks utterly desperate, and is the first ascent still up for grabs? I dont know if anyone else noticed, but he pulled on a tree :tease:
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Ashima sure wouldn't have counted it...
And I seem to remember SteMac voiding his onsight of something a while back,
but I think that he gets to choose the style and the grade...Imagine what it would be without the tree! 9c+ at least :o
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It did seem as though he thought the route was over before he grabbed the tree, even if he wasn't at the lower off.
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That "rest" he milks on La Planta de Shiva is an absolute piss taker! Such a monster!
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Last point. Who else remembers when Chilam Balam was first climbed, and did you think the ascent was credible at that time? I remember it well, and I certainly believed Bernabe had climbed it at the time and I still do, as it happens.
Yeh, I remember that. I often wonder if many of the climbers around that time would have gone on to achieve greater things if they had been believed and given the recognition/ sponsorship money they deserved. People like Bernabe and Fred Rouhling got a bit of slating at the time but seem to be having the last laugh.
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True, just a pity laughter doesn't pay the mortgage.
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Ride of the Valkyries (http://www.vimeo.com/24093221)
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<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/25808567?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" width="400" height="225" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/25808567">Adam Hocking The Keswickian E8 FA The Ego Has Landed E8</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/wildcountry">Wild Country</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p>
Hope the embed works properly. Should be Adam Hocking making me feel all scared just watching him on a new E8.
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You didn't need to do all the embed stuff. Just past the url in and it embeds automatically. Can see it fine though. The rope drag on that first route is worth a few E points alone.
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cheers. i'll know for next time.
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Salamandre - Fred Rouhling (http://vimeo.com/10136458)
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http://www.youtube.com/embed/g9Tz8fNKtFI (http://www.youtube.com/embed/g9Tz8fNKtFI)
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http://www.youtube.com/embed/g9Tz8fNKtFI (http://www.youtube.com/embed/g9Tz8fNKtFI)
Deep Water Soloing at the Congrelle, Guernsey (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g9Tz8fNKtFI#ws)
Embedding video tips (http://ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/HowTo_Embed_Videos_to_UKBouldering)
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thanks slackline.
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That was awesome. I had to watch the end a few times. His face expression. :o Priceless
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Tap dancing feet with a mind of their own, using your hands like you're reading braille and a positive correlation between height gained and the amount you are shitting yourself. Almost exactly like me RP'ing at Malham :slap:
Great footage with a nice choice of music. I'm going to watch it again now. Did he get back on and do it ?
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Glad you guys enjoyed it, yeah he got right back on it, we think it's a variation of a Martin Crocker E5, Steve's footwork is normally very good which obviously shows he must have been bricking it.
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Thats superb... bought back all sorts of pant shitting route leading memories :)
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Amazing. I was gripped watching that!
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Glad you guys enjoyed it, yeah he got right back on it, we think it's a variation of a Martin Crocker E5, Steve's footwork is normally very good which obviously shows he must have been bricking it.
Great effort.
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First 8c at La Pedriza, Madrid. (http://vimeo.com/26207607)
Really enjoyed this.
Nice music, pretty unique climbing style.
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Seurs Froides 8a+ - Jacob Cook (http://vimeo.com/26103971)
fun times in sayoose!
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enjoyed that, the music gives a good build up. :2thumbsup:
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First 8c at La Pedriza, Madrid.
Cool climbing. Needed more banging techno tho.
Not really typical pedriza style!
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Arco finals here in case anyone is interested.
http://www.arco2011.it/index.php/video/ifsc-climbing-world-championships-arco-2011/ (http://www.arco2011.it/index.php/video/ifsc-climbing-world-championships-arco-2011/)
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Last point. Who else remembers when Chilam Balam was first climbed, and did you think the ascent was credible at that time? I remember it well, and I certainly believed Bernabe had climbed it at the time and I still do, as it happens.
regarding Chilam Balam, I only know that one of the strongest oppositors of Bernabe's acent was Dani Andrada: he went on the route and he wrote he didn't fine neither chalk on the holds, nor rubber on the footholds in the whole upper part, so given that Bernabe had worked the route for a long time, he didn't believe he had climbed it. has anyone heard this also?
at the time I had a subscription to Desnivel, and there were many doubtful Spaniards.
envy or not?
it's a shame media weren't so present at the time. simply getting a video of Bernabe on the route could have given a better idea. but then again, even now that isn't enough.
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it's a shame media weren't so present at the time. simply getting a video of Bernabe on the route could have given a better idea.
Particularly if the climber / filmer refuse to publish the video :yes: ::)
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In case you'd forgotten about Grit, check out Pete Bridgwood's repeat of Strain Station...
Strain Station E4 5c (http://vimeo.com/26841545)
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Impressive. Looks like that fall was a potential ankle snapper.
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Awesome!!!
Great to see this getting done at last, was just thinking about this route yesterday.
Seems like E4 5c ish might be about right (maybe a bit more) to which is a surprise, I always thought it would be one of thos E4's that turns out to be about E6/7!!!
Nice work Pete!!
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Oh and by the way Pete, get a f****ing helmet!! :goodidea:
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Oh and by the way Pete, get a f****ing helmet!! :goodidea:
You're not wrong there Gus.
Good effort Pete
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Was it an onsight attempt? Looks a nice route.
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Bullet in the Chest (http://www.vimeo.com/27006744)
This is Grant Farquhar's new Bermuda DWS video featuring the second ascent of Tim Emmett's Bullet in the Chest (5.12d).
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Nina_Fish Eye.mov (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=nzvjo9kxc_E#ws)
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More a video about chuffing rather than chuffing itself but good never the less
http://www.ted.com/talks/matthew_childs_9_rules_of_rock_climbing.html (http://www.ted.com/talks/matthew_childs_9_rules_of_rock_climbing.html)
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Alan Cassidy, chuffed to have chuffed out his first 8c+.
Alan Cassidy - Metalcore 8c+ (http://www.vimeo.com/27315396)
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Great
@2:58 nastiest looking mono ever.
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Good video, cool looking route, good climbing :2thumbsup:
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Johnny Dawes - Stone monkey extra (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qwgmPTGpJUY#)
With commentary from JD
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BD athletes Kate Rutherford and Brittany Griffith attempt Venturi Effect (IV 5.12) on the Incredible Hulk, High Sierras, CA (http://vimeo.com/26281400)
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Chris Sharma - Sterling and Climbing (http://vimeo.com/27168769)
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Two Weeks Off (http://vimeo.com/27372832)
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this been on?
Dolce Vita (8a+) - Natalie Berry (http://vimeo.com/26938013)
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Nice little edit - enjoyed that one Robbie. Can't stop thinking about Greenspit though for some strange reason....... :-\
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More Caff on Big bang from meself:
The Big Bang 9a, 2nd Ascent, by James MacHaffie, Lower Pen Trwyn, North Wales. (http://vimeo.com/28107941)
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Great piece of climbing and a great vid Doylo.
Seems like you don't have much of a problem with music choices.
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Very cool. Death slab finish!!
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Quality watch Doylo, cheers.
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Great piece of climbing and a great vid Doylo.
Seems like you don't have much of a problem with music choices.
That was a track off one of my old techno albums but i've got some good tunes lined up (with the help of UKB) for my next project
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My word those holds look fucking shit!
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E8. Scary finish. Optimistic Spotting. "One arm pullups"
S Groove.mov (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VLSgpjj1vj0&feature=related#)
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great vid robin. I imagine if he fell off he'd drive the spotter into the ground like a nail.
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What a line, top top slap. Is that tom de gay or honeyman?
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relax, RELAX, RELAX!
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The Frontier Club Trailer (http://vimeo.com/27816553)
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The Grit Approach (http://vimeo.com/25111021)
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I really enjoyed that. Beautifully shot and put together.
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I thought it was ghastly! a bit too self-indulgent perhaps?
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Raindogs 8a - Natalie Berry (http://vimeo.com/27953089)
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"Overnite Sensation" (8a+) - Robbie Phillips (http://vimeo.com/28245736)
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On Assignment (http://vimeo.com/27101039)
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Salamandre - Fred Rouhling (http://vimeo.com/10136458)
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Arnaud Petit climbs "Black Bean" 8b on trad gear in Cese (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-TeTejh1ebs&feature=related#ws)
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Does anyone think Realization will ever go with a couple of Totemcams?
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Few ballnuts should do the trick.
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REEL ROCK Film Tour 2011 Trailer (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L35qBS7XqvI#ws)
-
Did anybody else think there could've been quite a few Tricam placements on Black Bean?
Reel Rock Tour looks mental this year!
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Did anybody else think there could've been quite a few Tricam placements on Black Bean?
I don't get why there is such surprise at product placement in free videos these days. Sponsored climbers need to earn their keep and get exposure somehow, who cares if their logo'd up or repeatedly mentioning a particular device, its the climbing that their doing thats interesting and its easy to overlook the advertising. :shrug:
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I thought it was ghastly! a bit too self-indulgent perhaps?
:agree:
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Sometimes it nice to just go to the crag, like with a nice girl......and just get pumped
:lol:
VIDEO PROFILE: BD athlete Alex Honnold 5.13 sport climbing at Phalanx of Will, Arizona (http://vimeo.com/27728779)
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Nice interesting vid Slackers
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Jonathan Siegrist - NWO (http://vimeo.com/29000094)
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I'm always going to the crag with a nice girl, doing a bunch of routes and getting pumped.....oh wait a minute, no I don't, because I live in North Wales....
Sausage fest central.
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Repentance, Remission (http://vimeo.com/22993356)
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Had a couple of sweaty palm moments watching that.
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Jonathan Siegrist - NWO
Yawn limestone sport climbing boll......wait a minute this was really good, liked the filming and editing - straight up proper climbing with no silly gimmicks (well apart from one tiny bit and that involved a close up of a cute dog so that's fine), looks like great climbing too.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8auiFwiI6o# (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8auiFwiI6o#)!
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How many time has Intro by The XX been used in climbing videos? Seems like a lot.
-
......climbing videos, documentaries, news items. It's the new DJ Shadow.
-
Yep, RIP for clubbed to death for docs/news aswell
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Lead Climbing 5.10b @ the age of 4 (http://vimeo.com/29066466) :strongbench:
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But also a certain wrongness to it.
-
Amazing how little he bends his arms, something to learn there I think.
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I think its cheating, he only weighs 3 stone and all the holds are jugs :tease:
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And seems to be a convenient lack of long moves.
Not that I'm bitter or anything.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=AKXZ1ud6QOo# (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=AKXZ1ud6QOo#)
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The North Face - Alex Honnold In Yosemite (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-9-az992z-0&feature=youtube_gdata_player#ws)
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Sasha DiGiulian Climbing Aitzol, 8c, in Spain (http://www.youtube.com/watch?&v=OdhcYJYojRA#ws)
(TNF Honnold is extracts from "Alone on the Wall" off the First Ascent TV series/DVD)
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Steph Davis: The Tactic (http://www.vimeo.com/22253291)
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Daila Ojeda - climb ‘A muerte’ on Sterling Rope (http://vimeo.com/29839593)
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Steph Davis must have some potent gusts.
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Troll Wall (http://vimeo.com/29949987)
:bow:
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Honnold on 60 minutes (cheesy, but some footage of Phoenix)
http://www.cbsnews.com/video/watch/?id=7383158n&tag=contentBody;storyMediaBox (http://www.cbsnews.com/video/watch/?id=7383158n&tag=contentBody;storyMediaBox)
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Was just about to post the same thing!
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Is he wearing makeup in that interview!? Love how the program is sponsored by Viagra!
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I like the way John Long says that there are only a handful of people who could do Phoenix with a rope. Chinny reckon :smart:
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Amazing - that route was the highpoint of my trip to Yosemite nine years back. That crux pitch is hard - Sam fell off leading then I needed a couple of sneaky pulls on gear seconding. Surprised they didn't mention Derek Hersey dying soloing the Steck-Salathe just to the right.
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That's a great video. That presenter's fantastic!
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She's quality.And that accent is all over the place.
Wonder if there was a report on how stoked he was afterwards?
Report: Most College Males Admit To Regularly Getting Stoked (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QgXObaM9i2Q#)
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She's lovely.
(http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s300/petzlroc99/33rdAnnualGracieAllenAwardsrhwycgleBLXl.jpg)
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she nice. I can see a new thread Dead Fit Birds Who Present Climbing
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For those that haven't seen it Alone on the Wall (http://v.youku.com/v_show/id_XMjM3MTcyOTgw.html) :blink:
-
For fans of that presenter with the crazy accent,
http://www.cbsnews.com/8301-504803_162-20114456-10391709.html?tag=strip (http://www.cbsnews.com/8301-504803_162-20114456-10391709.html?tag=strip)
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Honnold on Heaven (from Mason Earle's blog (http://masonearle.blogspot.com/2011/09/victory.html))
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-L7kOK9fV37o/Tn-MheboqmI/AAAAAAAAADw/2UcVNjR6VMA/s1600/DSC01409.JPG)
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What is that route Honnold is soloing?
The CBS 60 Seconds video has footage of The Phoenix (only a very small amount) and Sentinel Wall. The other video linked is Alone on the Wall which shows him soloing Moonlight Buttress and Half Dome
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Isn't the formation called Sentinel Rock?
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/sentinel-rock/105833408 (http://www.mountainproject.com/v/sentinel-rock/105833408)
Maybe it's the classic Steck Salathe? Were grades mentioned?
edit - no it doesn't look like the SS.
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http://www.mountainproject.com/v/chouinard-herbert/106233765 (http://www.mountainproject.com/v/chouinard-herbert/106233765)
see link at the bottom
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Looks a bit hard
BD athletes Adam Pustelnik and Nico Favresse make first repeat of Orbayu (8b+/8c) in Naranjo de Bulnes, Spain (http://vimeo.com/29963401)
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What the flaming smegma is that at 10:12?!?!?!
-
?
What a beautiful looking route though.
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What the flaming smegma is that at 10:12?!?!?!
A mono by the looks of it.
-
Okay, 10:13 onwards then.
Unless you guys think that is perfectly normal usage of a Wallnut 9 :alien:
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Tempest Freerunning Academy (http://www.vimeo.com/22157500)
-
Chuffing (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,4585.0.html) hell!
-
pretty cool I thought,
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Unless you guys think that is perfectly normal usage of a Wallnut 9 :alien:
A wallnut 9 alien? :P
If it worked it worked.
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Amazing - that route was the highpoint of my trip to Yosemite nine years back. That crux pitch is hard - Sam fell off leading then I needed a couple of sneaky pulls on gear seconding.
What is that route Honnold is soloing?
The Chouinard-Herbert (aka the Sherbert) on The Sentinel. 12-15 pitches, E4ish crux, lots of E1-3, just earns grade V due to the tricky approach and descent. Quieter than the other walls in the valley, and shadier.
(http://www.summitpost.org/images/original/126832.jpg)
Hardest pitches are below and through the roof at 2/3rds height. Brilliant route...
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I'm glad no-one ignores my replies. :(
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What was that Chris?
Beth Rodden- Yosemite Valley 5.14c (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MfOavtgwYA4#)
Awesome :bow:
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Serious radness there, well worth another viewing.
-
First Ascents - The Hardest Routes in Rio 2011 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R6JRFcnuWOE#ws)
-
Also looks rad. Pity it's one of those huge spiders and food poisoning countries :tumble:
-
Noticed their use of those Totem cams......the euros seem quite taken with them. Quite psyched to check out totems alien reproductions to see if they're up to scratch :bounce:
http://totemcams.com/content/index.php?id=1&se=3&su=1307635863 (http://totemcams.com/content/index.php?id=1&se=3&su=1307635863)
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Interview with Heinz Zak, includes him soloing Separate Reality (and high-lining)...
In conversation with...Heinz Zak (http://vimeo.com/28976228)
-
Rock climbing video - Ali Baba by Mathieu Bouyoud & climbers at Aiglun, France (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-8qvasMlYXo#ws)
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Flippin heck! Doesn't that look epic....
....and absolutely brilliant!
Neil
-
It's probably already on here from when it first appeared, but this in Nina DFBWGC Caprez on the same thing:
Nina Caprez: About A Girl (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ScXsZq-YKzk#ws)
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Aiglun looks amazing and a borderline contender this thread (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,18533.0.html) (where's your contribution Neil?). Anyone been?
Beta (http://www.rocapic.com/spip.php?article45). More beta (http://www.philippegatta.fr/climbing/aiglun2.htm). Even more beta (http://alpessudnet.free.fr/grimpe/aiglun-vertige-amour.html).
Vertige de l'Amour (http://alpessudnet.free.fr/grimpe/aiglun-vertige-amour.html)
L'artisan du huitieme jour (http://julianzanker.blogspot.com/2010/10/aiglun-270910.html)
7-10 pitch routes, some good-looking easy and moderate stuff as well as Ali Baba, close to Nice, bijoux local village, sunny late autumn/winter/spring venue, not rockfaxed/UKC databased, and 4 "Petit" ticks! (http://www.vagabondsdelaverticale.com/parois-de-legende-les-plus-belles-parois-d-europe.html) ... the approach is a bit complex but is that the only catch?
-
More of Honnold doing his thing (fair bit of footage from Alone on the Wall though)
Free Soloing with Alex Honnold (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yzA5S-5w13M#ws)
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Nice. Shame so much of the Rostrum footage is of the HVS last pitch, but cool nonetheless.
-
BRUDERLIEBE epsiode #2 | Climbing Marmolada - The new route (http://vimeo.com/30428423)
-
Rings & Slings Part 1 (http://vimeo.com/30743716)
-
Smitten: Monique Forestier - Staring at the Sea - 8b (http://vimeo.com/29336787)
-
I'm sure it's my problem, but Alex Honnold completely freaks me out. I mean, he must be the nicest guy around, but the makes me feel very uncomfortable when he stares into the camera.
it's like watching a bomb ready to explode.
I'm sorry about it, but I can't enjoy his videos and feats.
-
Fred Nicole: My Own Way (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hkEj7UbT1Cg#ws)
-
I'm sure it's my problem, but Alex Honnold completely freaks me out. I mean, he must be the nicest guy around, but the makes me feel very uncomfortable when he stares into the camera.
it's like watching a bomb ready to explode.
I'm sorry about it, but I can't enjoy his videos and feats.
It's not just you.
-
Fish eyes.
-
Enzo Oddo working Jungle Boogie with Sterling Rope (http://vimeo.com/31810075)
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Wide Boys climb Century Crack (http://vimeo.com/31873646)
-
Having watched that vid I get the overwhelming impression that Tom's like some olde english lord: looks very sensible and respectable on the outside but then you find out he spends his spare time at the local S&M club.
-
"Letting Go" (http://vimeo.com/31986120)
-
Big Ron belaying Geoff Birtles
Geoff Birtles climbs Right Unconquerable (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4fOEEDUZrL0#)
-
The ascent of the Qualido big wall (Joy Division) by James Pearson (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5MRjxw3xjV0#ws)
-
Big Ron belaying Geoff Birtles
Brilliant! Waist belay, gear hanging down to the ankles, belly flop finish and the flake before some sheriff snapped it with a car jack.
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Big Ron belaying Geoff Birtles
"oop, ran out of hand holds here ron"
"Never mind"
;D
-
Big Ron belaying Geoff Birtles
amazing. we are just dwarfs on the shoulders of giants.
-
don't know if it's a repost, but I loved this.
Crazy Move on Hard Grit E9 First Ascent (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U7dPa2MGqhE#ws)
-
VIDEO PROFILE: BD athlete Patxi Usobiaga multi-pitch climbing in Austria's Rtikon (http://vimeo.com/31576498)
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Crazy Move on Hard Grit E9 First Ascent
It's a clip from the Grit Kids film which is on the Committed Vol 2 DVD (I think). The whole thing is worth watching.
Only a few years ago, amazing what Pete has gone on to achieve!
edit: and his sister Katy for that matter.
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Just watched it again and noticed it says the same as I did at the end!
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It is a stunning route. I take it nobody has repeated it yet?
-
Only he who has an invisible top rope....
-
Petzl Roc Trip
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kitJnOKvisU&feature=player_embedded# (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kitJnOKvisU&feature=player_embedded#)!
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Pretty mundane limestone features there ;)
-
:jaw:
Now...
Things to do.
1. Send kids to Grandma.
2. Book tickets to China.
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Pretty mundane limestone features there ;)
Nothing on Stoney eh? ;)
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Pretty mundane limestone features there ;)
Nothing on Stoney eh? ;)
More like Chudleigh, really...
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Honnold on 'boyfriend' detail too.
-
in my old bedroom I used to have a pic of Kathy Brown on the final wall of the Arco Rock Master he won back in the day. it was shot from above, she was pulling like hell with a nasty grin of determination on her face.
pure inspiration.
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bad spelling sorry, no wonder I found no pics. sadly not that one but this one is pretty close.
oh and by the way she's very pretty in my opinion.
(http://img4.libreriauniversitaria.it/BUS/300/008/9780762740086.jpg)
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I read that Beth Rodden lost out to her for the commercial
http://blog.bethrodden.com/2011/10/climbing-takes-hollywood.html (http://blog.bethrodden.com/2011/10/climbing-takes-hollywood.html)
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BEST COAST RIOT (http://vimeo.com/21387283)
-
nice video, disapointed by the blowtorching scene though, unfortunately comments have been disabled on vimeo...
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This looks like it'll be good...
'The Long Hope' - Trailer with Dave MacLeod (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Ds5LZel0WU#ws)
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Gabriele Moroni - Masoniamoci 8c+/9a (http://vimeo.com/32715911)
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This looks like it'll be good...
I bought it as a download and saw it tonight. Very impressive movie!
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nice video, disapointed by the blowtorching scene though, unfortunately comments have been disabled on vimeo...
keep in mind it is granite.
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Why is that relevant? It expands under heat like any other rock.
-
Some old footage for those of you who haven't seen Committed:
Mawson Falls off Meshuga (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E7BJa4z2YVI#)
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Don't think this has been on before.
It's some more old skool MEDWARDS footage. Another 1990s 8b+!!!
Mark Edwards climbing at Carn Vellan. Cornwall (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=csUC0ZHSbvg#)
.....what? What do you mean?.........
-
Joey Kinder - Living the Climbing Life with Sterling Rope (http://vimeo.com/33161218)
-
Sasha DiGiulian. "Pure Imagination" 5.14d (9a). (http://vimeo.com/33306702)
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That rock looks great, but there is a lot of FF through the dross in that vid.
-
"it would be the most difficult female ascent in american rock climbing history."
hmmmm, forgetting someone maybe.
-
Who, Rodden? Meltdown was meant to be mid 5.14, 9a would be 5.14d
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Who, Rodden? Meltdown was meant to be mid 5.14, 9a would be 5.14d
was thinking lyn hill. admittedly the nose isnt as difficult in number, but surely it must be harder in most other ways.
-
I think the hardest pitches on the Nose free are 14a, but then we are just comparing apples, pears and oranges...
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I think the hardest pitches on the Nose free are 14a, but then we are just comparing apples, pears and oranges...
Exactly, you can't really go comparing a single pitch F9a to a big wall... What Sasha has done is incredible, lets not go nitpicking people and just be psyched for her!
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Indeed. And grade wise the quote is actually correct.
-
I'm psyched, she makes it look like a path, here's Jonathan Siegrist on the FA for comparison.
Pure Imagination (http://vimeo.com/17898669)
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I think the hardest pitches on the Nose free are 14a, but then we are just comparing apples, pears and oranges...
Exactly, you can't really go comparing a single pitch F9a to a big wall... What Sasha has done is incredible, lets not go nitpicking people and just be psyched for her!
Believe me Ethan im very psyched for her, the route looks fucking incredible and its amazing to see her do it with such relative ease. I guess i just see the nose as more impressive but you are right that its pointless to compare them.
-
The Climbers (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U1gb-OPuw5A#)
bit of old school. quality just for the ending.
-
Gabriele Moroni | Bella Regis, 8c+ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QQypSEf7dY0#ws)
-
Un rosebeef dans le midi (http://vimeo.com/33029521)
-
bit of old school. quality just for the ending.
Thanks for posting that. Joe Brown looked about 15!
-
http://vimeo.com/user5822162 (http://vimeo.com/user5822162)
Check these guys out heard they pretty cool! ;)
:agree:
Haha!
Would love to see what you think of are films tho?
-
Alexander Huber about Adam Ondra (http://vimeo.com/33704646)
-
Haven't bought a climbing film for years but might get that one!
-
:badidea: Bet it'll be shit :clown:
-
Shit with Ondra i can handle
-
I like the assessment that he focused on just generally improving before trying to tick big things.
-
Downloading this to watch later, sounds like it'll be good...
Islands: Traditional Tales of Lakeland Climbing (http://vimeo.com/33813853)
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James Pearson, Alex Honnold & a few others trip to Chad (http://camp4collective.com/#/FILM/STORIES/1/) (plus other great films). 8)
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BOOM! Pete Whillance, Johnny Dawes, Dave Thomas and friends hit Foula:
Climbing on Foula (http://vimeo.com/34440652)
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Nice one Adam, enjoyed that
-
...somehow organised by a 17 year old girl :???:
The top half above the football pitch ledge looks cool.
-
...somehow organised by a 17 year old girl :???:
Her dad worked for the BBC (mentioned in Dawes' biography).
-
Ah, my mind is at ease.
-
You mean you've not read Full of Myself yet? :o :spank:
-
Lotus Flower - Multipitch climbing in Canada [franais - english] (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hVkgSZUwn3k#)
-
This may already be in here in separate sections (but I've a suspicion I may be thinking of the "Opera Vertical" videos)....
Free Climbing Patrick Edlinger Verdon Forever (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ZIxuj7cbeg#)
-
Steph Davies and Dean Potter soloing (http://www.wimp.com/dangerousclimbing/) (no doubt been seen already)
-
WHY - Nikon D4 Release Video (http://vimeo.com/34666308)
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Obsession Roaches (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dG12pz-C_ZA#)
-
Tiny, blurry, arse-shot headpoint of trade route with the toprope almost in grabbing reach :sick: :sick: :sick:
-
Show us how its done Fiendy, I eagerly await the footage.
-
I was gripped watching it. Might not be the best cameras, but I thought it was a good mate-does-something-scary clip.
-
To be fair to Fiend I don't thank that was him. It's an automatically generated whinney from a high horse anytime it sniffs a practice deemed uncool by more than 51% of UKB. Right now he's out of the office torquing his way up The Unridable Donkey on a shunt while spraypainting tickmarks where the best axe placements are.
-
I was gripped watching it. Might not be the best cameras, but I thought it was a good mate-does-something-scary clip.
I was expecting him to fall off all the way up.
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It's an automatically generated whinney from a high horse anytime it sniffs a practice deemed uncool by more than 51% of UKB.
Harsh surely? I'm not bothered by the headpointing/ab rope thing, but there's no denying it's a tiny, low res arse shot vid. Interesting maybe but "Quality" is very generous IMO.
-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=nZZMIo7Zfys#! (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=nZZMIo7Zfys#!)
-
It's an automatically generated whinney from a high horse anytime it sniffs a practice deemed uncool by more than 51% of UKB.
Harsh surely? I'm not bothered by the headpointing/ab rope thing, but there's no denying it's a tiny, low res arse shot vid. Interesting maybe but "Quality" is very generous IMO.
I was taking the piss, hope it didn't come across too harsh.
-
The Fanatic Search 2 - A Girl Thing - Brooke Raboutou (http://vimeo.com/34708657)
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Ace, cheers Ethan. Must take Chloe (2 & 1/2 ans) to the wall more.
The bit where she falls over on the road almost had me in tears.
Lovely contrast to the (frankly odd) Ashima/Obe competitive one.
-
Magnus Midtboe climbs "Directa open your mind" 9a (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ChnOath0kkY#ws)
-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=nZZMIo7Zfys#! (http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=nZZMIo7Zfys#!)
What's the finger crack Honnold is on? Equinox?
Answered my own question. It's Equinox.
He nearly came off at 4:03! I'd finally have been able to say "I told you so".
-
Yeah he does sketch a bit just there. Gave me a sweaty hands moment!
-
Ace, cheers Ethan. Must take Chloe (2 & 1/2 ans) to the wall more.
The bit where she falls over on the road almost had me in tears.
Lovely contrast to the (frankly odd) Ashima/Obe competitive one.
:agree:
Plus she has amazing technique for a nine year old. Mind you, with those genes it's tantamount to cheating. ;)
-
off topic, but is 2 1/2 a fair age? going to take Kyle bouldering outdoors when it gets a bit warmer.
Need to go to a non-coastal venue though as he is more interested in throwing pebbles at the sea or trying to jump in than climbing.
-
I have read that, good effort, and good lass!
-
off topic, but is 2 1/2 a fair age? going to take Kyle bouldering outdoors when it gets a bit warmer.
During random time-wasting today I learnt that it is "normal" to do a one day ascent of the Half Dome Regular NW Face, mid-winter, with your twelve year old daughter (http://www.supertopo.com/tr/A-Chilly-Half-Dome-With-My-Daughter/t11323n.html). So work backwards from that!
Herson is a complete bad-ass and the second person after Yuji Hirayama to red-point every pitch on the true Salathe. Many trip reports (http://vocr.sri.com/herson/climbing/tr.html).
His daughter seems to have inherited, or has been nurtured to have, some of the same stuff. It would be interesting to hear her take on things.
-
off topic, but is 2 1/2 a fair age? going to take Kyle bouldering outdoors when it gets a bit warmer.
Ideal. Finding the right venue is fairly key, with the right angle/height and spotting/herding opportunities. Although most time is still spent digging ad building dens etc. Roped stuff will prob be a little too info heavy at that age, but certainly by 4 we had taken ours up Tryfan in a 3,scrambling every pitch, with no complaints (had to carry him down though).
-
Cheers. Think Clova will be a good first port of call on a warmer spring / early summer day. Sheep to look at, short approach, loads of small easy boulders, as well as caves, through holes and the like. Plus pub doing good food!
-
And to bring the thread back on track, is this one yours Stallioni?
Libero Commercial - Baby Climbing A Mountain (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QUg-zToh9gk#ws)
-
Jenn Flemming - The "R" Series (http://vimeo.com/32220650)
Jen Fleming on a 5.13a (F7c+) R on the Rincon Wall, Eldorado Canyon.
-
Enzo Oddo Sends La Rambla 9a+ (5.15a) at Siurana Spain (video) (http://vimeo.com/35037901)
-
Alize Dufraisse Sends Patinoso 5.14c Siurana, Spain (http://vimeo.com/34624787)
-
Not sure if this counts as 'quality chuffing', or if your allowed to posted your own vids. But everyone enjoys seeing someone getting spanked right? especially by grit classics...
**yes, yes I'm fully aware I have spelt 'Whillans' wrong - but it takes so long to encode the video on my piece of shit laptop I cba to redo it - apologies
Overpysche (http://vimeo.com/34812919)
-
non-quality.
-
non-quality.
Very
-
Good fall though.
-
Quality fallage
-
time for a new belayer
-
Seriously impressive IMO! Sorry if this has been posted before.
Urko Carmona - Coliseum 8a (http://vimeo.com/33739884)
-
That is seriously impressive. Her caboose shaking is great.
-
It is truly impressive.
How long is that route though ? - must need a 100m rope or summat
-
that's impressive!!! basically cutting loose on every foot placement, fucking strenuous!!!
wow.
-
Mayan Smith-Gobat on Salathe (http://vimeo.com/35596063)
-
^ Very good! (But why is she shuffling with leading hand thumbs down on the thin-hand part? That's really wasting strength ... or is the crack slanting hard to the right? )
-
The End Of The Affair (http://vimeo.com/35130676)
Effort Nathan...
Apologies of it's a re-post
-
Effort Nathan...
Apologies of it's a re-post
its on non-quality already. thanks for thinking it worthy of quality though ;)
-
(But why is she shuffling with leading hand thumbs down on the thin-hand part? That's really wasting strength ... or is the crack slanting hard to the right? )
I think you should tell her to go back up there and do it properly.
Thumbs-down jams are often more secure in thin-hand cracks. If you are struggling to make anything stick they can be the best choice even at the cost of less reach than thumbs-up.
Great video. Fabulous spot.
-
It is truly impressive.
How long is that route though ? - must need a 100m rope or summat
You can do it on an 80 but it's so steep you do quite a lot more than 40m of climbing!
-
Doesn't really answer any questions, but pretty impressive all the same:
Durif on 3P (http://chadurif.fr/galerie-videohd-30.html)
Especially when you see how near the end Adam Ondra was when he broke a hold on the onsight!
-
:o Impressive :bow:
-
THE SHADOW (http://vimeo.com/19544985)
-
WARNING : Contains non-climbing sequences but this is made up for by a talking pug-dog!
NO NUMBERS (http://vimeo.com/20574103)
-
WARNING : Contains non-climbing sequences but this is made up for by a talking pug-dog!
Instant sales pitch success :2thumbsup:
-
In Spanish but definitely worth a look. http://www.over-caffeinated sugary drink company.es/cs/Satellite/es_ES/Video/Iker-Pou-completa-Nit-de-Burixes-021243160941315 (http://www.over-caffeinated sugary drink company.es/cs/Satellite/es_ES/Video/Iker-Pou-completa-Nit-de-Burixes-021243160941315)
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Brutal!
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that looks horrible, all my tendons have just ruptured.
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1.43 How fat are his fingers ! :o
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Fatter than your legs! ;D
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Forget sausage fingers, those are haggis fingers! i am jealous.
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WARNING : Contains non-climbing sequences but this is made up for by a talking pug-dog!
Dead Cute Pug Dogs Who Go Climbing.
I really like all the cute filming tricks and angles in that, even the non-climbing bits. Pity the bouldering is a bit uninspiring.
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Verdon Dreaming (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yDx98Ax0kfo#ws)
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:bow: 8)
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its nice, but its no Cornice ;).
The Verdon has now been boosted to the top of my bolt clipping destinations list.
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La Obsesin - A film about Dani Andrada (http://vimeo.com/36642899)
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Great videos recently, thanks guys...
The Shadow - very cool film, made me feel slightly ill imagining climbing it.
Verdon - omg what a line.
Dani - very inspiring...I wanna be an E3 version of that dedication.
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Dani - very inspiring...I wanna be an E3 version of that dedication.
More inspiring stuff of Dani in La qute fanatique (The Fanatic Search) (http://triaylaurent.com/page38.html), very homemade feel to the video and a bit disjointed, but some very impressive climbing (including Ondra tearing up La Rambla with Sahrma & Andrada & others watching with their jaws on the floor).
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I wouldn't pay money for fanatic search, we watched it the whole way through presuming we were on the extras! Fanatic search 2 (girl thing) is much better.
Tom et je ris is MEGA, just epic enough to be different and unique without being a total pain in the arse. If you're into stamina and tufas it's a must. God I miss being a full timer.
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Andrada's such a beast- even on a 9a+ he seems to be able to stop in the middle of pretty much any move and just check how his skin's doing! :bow:
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Crescendo |krəˈ sh endō| Sonnie Trotter AliasCinema (http://vimeo.com/36440743)
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A film about Dani Andrada[/url]
Well I've now learned he started climbing just a few months before I did. That's why he's better than I am.
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A film about Dani Andrada[/url]
Well I've now learned he lives somewhere where a slightly foggy day is considered bad conditions, not the only good weather window for months. That's why he's better than I am.
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Dean Potter soloing Freerider (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=39174) (as it explains he abbed in rather than going ground up).
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La Obsesin - A film about Dani Andrada (http://vimeo.com/36642899)
Interesting to hear Dani basically saying he's not too bothered if a line gets chipped. I'm paraphrasing of course, but he does say that he's more concerned by shit at crags. Also he says that once you bolt a line it's no longer natural, so why be fanatical about chipping?
I remember saying bolting can lead to chipping in this way on the Carn Vellan thread (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,15682.175.html), and being roundly shouted down for it. So there. :tumble:
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Interesting to hear Dani basically saying he's not too bothered if a line gets chipped. I'm paraphrasing of course, but he does say that he's more concerned by shit at crags. Also he says that once you bolt a line it's no longer natural, so why be fanatical about chipping?
Its good to see he's concerned about the state of the Spanish crags and I'm not at all surprised at his stance on manufacturing routes, it suits him. I do wonder if he'd be of the same opinion if somebody got to all his 1st ascents before him and drilled them down to 8a, or maybe enlarged those M14 mono's he likes to 'find' to something more usable. Yes, Spain has a lot of rock etc. etc. :worms:
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Ganesh [8b+] First ascent by Grme Pouvreau (http://www.dailymotion.com/video/xgjb75)
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James Pearson in Northumberland - Interview and E7 onsight (http://vimeo.com/36732392)
county ethics looks amazing
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Nice one. Welcome back Keenus, hope you get some good stuff done in the UK. CDD crux looks awesome, didn't expect that. Wish the filming had been a bit smoother there tho. I like the shot of the crag with sped up clouds.
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what a brilliant move.
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Alize Dufraisse: La Reina Mora 8c+/9a FFA (http://vimeo.com/37279050)
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Dan Honneyman has uploaded loads of his old grit stuff, plenty of beta!
http://www.youtube.com/user/crimperE6/videos (http://www.youtube.com/user/crimperE6/videos)
Don't think i'll forget belaying on this in a hurry!
knocking on heavens door attempt 2.mov (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KG8jcH_uIms#)
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Some great videos there! :)
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Dan Honneyman has uploaded loads of his old grit stuff, plenty of beta!
Don't think i'll forget belaying on this in a hurry!
knocking on heavens door attempt 2.mov (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KG8jcH_uIms#)
I like how he is wearing a helmet in attempt 1 and removes it for attempt 2, bonkers. Or has he labelled the attempts incorrectly?
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David Lama Cerro Torre Trailer (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c0lpMlAv9Yo#ws)
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Mammut Teamtrip Urban Climbing Part 1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QyriIYhifec#ws)
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Gotta new sponsor?
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8)
Le Reve - Jonathan Siegrist (http://vimeo.com/37601529)
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That looks mega!
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Mega feature and rock. Makes El Delfin look like I made it with rubble and a prittstick.
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Great film. So much less in your face than many of the recent yank films.
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https://vimeo.com/38448480
"I can wake up and I can go climbing... or I can just sleep in all day." P-Rob living the dream.
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fucking hate these videos where uninteresting strong youths talk shit and blow sunshine up each others arses.
Rumney is amazing though
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fucking hate these videos where uninteresting strong youths talk shit and blow sunshine up each others arses.
I usually like those videos :)
This one was not so good though. Far too little climbing. The lost driving sequence amused me though.
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Climbing Rainbow Wall, Red Rocks -- The Classics (http://vimeo.com/36433625)
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"and then you think wow, we're not sport climbing any more"
Right before footage of him clipping a shiny bolt.
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My Piano E8 6c (http://vimeo.com/38796361)
Not the best vid, but an utterly stunning feature. Nesscliffe is the best crag about.
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<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/35967164?autoplay=1" width="398" height="223" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe>
This is pretty cool, not much amazing movement or sequences, but shows a big adventure done with a good sense of humour.
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Nesscliffe is the best crag about.
I hear this quite a bit, what is it about it exactly?
I haven't been and its becoming more and more obvious that this is a bad thing, especially at this time of year.
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Nesscliffe is the best crag about.
I hear this quite a bit, what is it about it exactly?
I haven't been and its becoming more and more obvious that this is a bad thing, especially at this time of year.
its kind of tongue in cheek but it must be one of the best. its just the lines are so massive, things like sunburst and the pit and the pendulum are about 30-35m which make a good contrast compared to the stuff on the grit. also the concentration of the place, so many hard routes in such a small area. the bouldering is really good aswell (if a bit limited)
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http://vimeo.com/35967164 (http://vimeo.com/35967164)
This is pretty cool, not much amazing movement or sequences, but shows a big adventure done with a good sense of humour.
Tommy Caldwell seems particularly ...relaxed!
Nice chair, although Steve "Crusher" Bartlett got there first in 1983 (http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=801814&tn=20). K-Mart deckchair 'portledge', PO Wall:
(http://i138.photobucket.com/albums/q280/crusherbartlett/PObed.jpg)
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A few weeks climbing with Ueli Steck... (http://vimeo.com/38848375)
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Untitled (http://vimeo.com/38952683)
Looks like a really interesting route
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Very cool. I like the authentic El Mocho-style "belayed by my mom" ascent. Nice video overall.
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A Couple More E's from the Grit (http://vimeo.com/39047710)
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has this been on before?
Top Rope Tough Guys (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsAiOYXC-k0#ws)
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http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=66990 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=66990) UKC Exclusive blah blah blah whatever.
Still an amazing clip. This was on the First Ascent DVD I'm sure. Proper sweaty palms stuff.
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Looks like another good film in the offing...
Autana_trailer_HD.mov (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WzBaPd3OxmM#ws)
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On Sight - Uncut (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Q_AuHI82aw#ws)
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I prefer Spider Pants to real fucking spiders in that Autana thing!
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Looks like another good film in the offing...
Autana_trailer_HD.mov (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WzBaPd3OxmM#ws)
Looks brilliant. Big fan of Alastair lees recent work
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https://vimeo.com/29654882
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F0T9 | Ramon Julin "Ramonet" (http://vimeo.com/39552036)
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F0T9 | Ramon Julin "Ramonet" (http://vimeo.com/39552036)
I watched this with College A Real Hero (http://snd.sc/lE50RZ) 'accidentally' replacing the rather average sound track. Fitted to length almost perfectly if you start it after the credits and seemed somewhat apt. Mind you that song sounds great playing against most things.
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Angry Beaver - quality.
Ramon - non-quality, not enough climbing too much dicking around with slo-mo.
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Nice looking burly new route at the Hole near Cape Town. Check out the swell lines at Muizenburg at the start!
Life Enhancement Program (http://vimeo.com/39771821)
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Ooooh I do like a bit of HOLE action :strongbench:
Good video, nice commentary at the start about Cape sandstone, it's always nice to hear of places that have the potential for protectable but bloody hard routes. Really like the first roof section and the bat hang cam! Pity it's still got bolts in it tho.
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Yeah, bolts seem a bit of an oddity, as he clips them lower down (maybe on an existing route?) but seems to avoid them higher up. A lot of the routes at the Mine and Silvermine could be climbed on gear (and Peer's Cave, plus a lot there could be highballed) but so many people don't own trad gear, as it's too bloody expensive, so these routes get bolted.
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Vian sending divine fury (http://vimeo.com/36943753)
Viva La Vida pt1 (http://vimeo.com/29310602)
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Daniel Dulac establishing the route La Voie du Milieu - Petzl RocTrip China 2011 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SGz5_EnAPG4#ws)
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https://vimeo.com/40050096
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nice vid from P-Ben
:bow:
https://vimeo.com/40282781
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Good stuff. Michele makes everything look so bloody easy.
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He'd be great to carry to a fancydress party if you want to go as a tortoise.
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Such an aesthetic route....
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http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b01g89w3/The_Adventure_Show_2011_2012_Climbing..._No_Limits (http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b01g89w3/The_Adventure_Show_2011_2012_Climbing..._No_Limits)!/
:clap2:
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BD athlete Cody Roth climbing Date With Death (5.13+), Sandia Mountain Wilderness, New Mexico (http://vimeo.com/36518774)
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Would like to have seen more footage of the route and climbing as it looks cool. But regardless, 0:15 - 0:20 is :o
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Daniel Dulac establishing the route La Voie du Milieu - Petzl RocTrip China 2011
Just slightly awesome eh ;)
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"I Believe I Can Fly" on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/38595574)
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Usually these wunderkid spooges are utterly boring....but that was really pretty good. The kid's technique was great, he moves just like an adult climber, uncanny. Smith Rocks looks well good.
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Grit Ground Up (http://vimeo.com/40940163)
Thought this was pretty good...
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Very nice, I like seeing the uncertainty and working out going on.
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Agreed, that's a cool little film
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Agreed, that's a cool little film
Awesome footage of Master's Edge. Nice one
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Podsacs with Pete O'Donovan on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/41285329)
nice video about a legend, enjoyed the history bit.
Oh, he makes good pads too....
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Love the Pod video, really good. What a hero.
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I think this (or at least bits of it) might have been posted before, but what the hell
Big Bang (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WeSUDkrq0wc#)
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THE WIZARDS APPRENTICE - EXCERPT (Melloblocco 2012 invitation) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/41502390)
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ARC'TERYX Chasing JStar Episode 1 on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/41531185)
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Chris Sharma, World's First 5.15 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_eTxQLfIUNY#)
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Two 9a FA's in 75minutes (http://lizardclimbing.com/index.php?id=176&PHPSESSID=fvrc6f5d3s6tj50phjku8pfoc6)...
First ascent world record - Pirmin Bertle sending Chromosome X (9a) and Chromosome Y (9a) in 75min! on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/41976103)
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Chris Sharma, World's First 5.15 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_eTxQLfIUNY#)
How can they call it the world's first 9a+!!? I know some people disregard Roughling but hello Alex Huber....Open Air!!
I was at Ceuse when Sharma did it, used to wank over this footage
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Two 9a FA's in 75minutes (http://lizardclimbing.com/index.php?id=176&PHPSESSID=fvrc6f5d3s6tj50phjku8pfoc6)...
First ascent world record - Pirmin Bertle sending Chromosome X (9a) and Chromosome Y (9a) in 75min! on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/41976103)
Non-quality edit. Routes look amazing though.
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Non-quality edit. Routes look amazing though.
It's often unclear to me what defines "Quality" v's "Non-quality" as a lot of regular posters vids that get posted in Non-Quality are swish productions (perhaps a "Readers Vids" rather than non-quality is more appropriate, but then its just a name/label for the thread so doesn't really matter). In this instance I used the criteria "footage of first ascents of two impressive routes is good enough to satisfy the criteria" I'd imagine its often quite difficult to get a good edit from a single first ascent :shrug:
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For me, the crapness of this edit has nothing to do with the footage captured (it's good), I just thought all the subtitles and associated krypton factor style route descriptions were gash. Supergash.
-
I guess there's no accounting for some people's taste (or the tools they have at their disposal to achieve the edits).
-
That's why I always like Ben's and Leeroy's videos on here. They're nicely paced and don't give me headache.
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What is an "eliminator move"? Did he miss out a hold to make it harder or something?
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Enzo Shreds the RED - a film by Foto Vertical on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/42235009)
more footage of these magnificent routes.
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Petzl RocTrip China 2011 [EN] The official movie (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EcU255XBlcI#ws)
Has this been posted yet?
I want to go to china!
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Really enjoyed that, the rock in the big cave looks totally amazing.
-
That video is fucking awesome. :clap2:
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now thats what i call a climbing flick!
this video is exactly why bouldering will only be part of the bigger picture.
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:agree: too, brilliant
-
I thought I'd seen it before but that was just an early short version. This is outstanding ... very original. I want to go!
Theres one of Daniel Dulac bolting and climbing a line up the cave the river runs out of that was very good, more continuity than snippets mixed to beats.
The place looks stunning but that video was a bit of a disappointment to me as it cut around from snapshots of people, too little of whom were climbing.
I preferred Dulac's video (re-post but what the hell, its related to the other Petzl one)...
Daniel Dulac establishing the route La Voie du Milieu - Petzl RocTrip China 2011 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SGz5_EnAPG4#ws)
Be great to see similar of Dani Andrada's route :please:
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:o
DFU on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/41232209)
Write-up (http://www.supertopo.com/tr/South-African-Route-Torres-del-Paine-Patagonia-January-2012/t11390n.html)
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Quality short film/poem from Steve House (http://learn.usa.canon.com/galleries/galleries/sample_videos/shattered.shtml).
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Was just about to post that Slackers. Nice.
-
Great
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True Grip. Part Three - Jordan Buys. on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/42711256)
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A man after my own heart..
Bill Ramsey - Reverse Polarity, 5.14b (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vBSUouWliPk#ws)
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Penitente-Bullet The Blue Sky on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/43127093)
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Not exactly quality chuffing, didnt know where to stick it, maybe a chuffing no no fucking no.
Gigantic @ Wilton, beeen after it since I was a kid... I tickled the bastard... next go hopefully... sans helmet!
Cheers Mr B for the vid.
http://youtu.be/IqW9AnZJrmg (http://youtu.be/IqW9AnZJrmg)
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Not exactly quality chuffing, didnt know where to stick it, maybe a chuffing no no fucking no.
Gigantic @ Wilton, beeen after it since I was a kid... I tickled the bastard... next go hopefully... sans helmet!
Cheers Mr B for the vid
http://youtu.be/IqW9AnZJrmg (http://youtu.be/IqW9AnZJrmg)
absolute monster. I hope you mean avec helmet
-
absolute monster. I hope you mean avec helmet
urmmm yep :-[
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Quality short film/poem from Steve House (http://learn.usa.canon.com/galleries/galleries/sample_videos/shattered.shtml).
Found it on Vimeo so now embedding it here....
Shattered on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/40379197)
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True Grip. Part Three - Jordan Buys. on Vimeo
Great stuff, good filming good ascent.
-
Has a fair bit of base jumping, but climbing features prominently too (as well as talking)...
A Perfect Circle on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/43085682)
Her biography High Infatuation is a pretty good read.
-
Thought that was great; there is a lot of talking but not really that much bullshit and its good to hear someone talk seriously about what it means to them. One of the better explanations I've heard of the appeal of soloing too.
And she's vegan ... I think I'm in love :wub:
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Jenny on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/42925135)
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And she's vegan ...
Lots of recipes on the blog (http://www.highinfatuation.com/blog/category/veganism/).
-
Roland Hemetzberger FA "Bgeleisen " ( 8b+) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/43307024)
-
A man after my own heart..
Bill Ramsey - Reverse Polarity, 5.14b (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vBSUouWliPk#ws)
Geriatric, bloody skinny, and completely obsessed with one route?? Sounds right!
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Jenny on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/42925135)
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Roland Hemetzberger FA "Bgeleisen " ( 8b+) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/43307024)
up until about 0.58 I was going to turn it off but FUCK ME that's a line
-
Jenny on Vimeo
Jenny on Vimeo
:chair:
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:chair:
:oops:
-
http://vimeo.com/42912085# (http://vimeo.com/42912085#)
-
Jerry and Ron Kauk on the Lost Arrow Spire. Part 1. (Can't find Part 2 - I think he forgot to set the Betamax to record it)
Not technically quality but worth it for Jerry's industrial strength Frank Zappa look 8)
[url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&list=UUow8VwYpY8sGVILXZHJHLng&v=d1WPnFz6pkA[url]
(no idea how to embed videos and the hyperlink think doesn't want to work for me either. Bollocks.)
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(no idea how to embed videos and the hyperlink think doesn't want to work for me either. Bollocks.)
Read this (http://www.ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/HowTo_Embed_Videos_to_UKBouldering)
Kauk and Moffat on Lost Arrow Part 1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d1WPnFz6pkA#)
-
Proof that climbing really isn't a spectator sport
-
Thought that was great; there is a lot of talking but not really that much bullshit and its good to hear someone talk seriously about what it means to them. One of the better explanations I've heard of the appeal of soloing too.
And she's vegan ... I think I'm in love :wub:
:agree: , balls to the veganism but that wee video is very nice.
-
steve hubble on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/8238378)
-
beautiful words from Steve, there.
-
Nice one Pritch, good choice of music..
-
Great clip, all boxes ticked.
-
Think this just about makes this thread
Classic Almscliff on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/44194136)
Well I liked it anyway
-
got my palms sweating more than the honnald video! Nice video
-
Steve on Hubble - great video, a real pleasure to listen to him describing it.
-
Pretty sure I kept my left in the pocket on Big Greeny and reached right to the crimp which was a welcome surprise :-\
-
That Hubble video is ace. Like the Geldard one too.
-
Fantastic hubble video but for some reason i can't help wondering if Steve cuts his own hair
-
Back to the Roots: M.D.M.C.P. a new 5.13 in Indian Creek on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/8270827)
Athlete Profile: Off-width climber Pamela Pack - Outside Today (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=batOAey3FsU#ws)
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Video quality not brilliant, but climbing is better than the video quality...
Untitled on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/41620337)
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The Almscliff video is very nice, although I'm really really scared by any kind of soloing.
Anyway, I watched Hubble video again, and I promise that the next time I come over, I'll tie into a rope and I'll go up there to touch and feel those holds.
It will be my personal Mecca pilgrimage.
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Anyway, I watched Hubble video again, and I promise that the next time I come over, I'll tie into a rope and I'll go up there to touch and feel those holds.
It will be my personal Mecca pilgrimage.
Mecca is a few lines along :P
-
;D
True dat.
-
Those Almscliff routes are pretty well protected, mostly good choices for the scared boulderer with little trad experience, apart from Western Front where I assume the gear is pretty pumpy to place.
-
Anyway, I watched Hubble video again, and I promise that the next time I come over, I'll tie into a rope and I'll go up there to touch and feel those holds.
It will be my personal Mecca pilgrimage.
i predict a flash :o
-
Video quality not brilliant, but climbing is better than the video quality...
Untitled on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/41620337)
Good effort Sam!
-
Possibly a repost...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rkbD73oEu_Q# (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rkbD73oEu_Q#)
-
Possibly worth it regardless as it is one SICK bit of climbing :strongbench:
-
He looks like quite a long drink of water. Great climbing
-
And that vid needs this one to complement
Indian Creek FA attempt (First Ascent Series DVD extra) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HT0051sGdXY#ws)
That second crux is impressive without cheating lanking through it, but obviously no big deal for him who manages to changes shoes mid-route :blink:
-
Yeah that one is definitely a repost and slackers isn't, and you're right it is much more exciting climbing, including the move back from the rest.
Edit forgot the gear fumble too....love that shizzle.
-
:oops:
I did check first and didn't come up. Still, the 2 videos go well together, so not repentant. 8)
Edit: Yeah, found it. Not the video as such, but a UKC link (posted by yourself). That's why it didn't come up in my search.
Re-edit: And yes, that gear fumble got my heartbeat up!
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The Eye of Odin (8c+) first ascent on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/45194834)
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Superb, what a cool combination of lots of cruxes and lots of shakeouts, I love the giant mouth feature :w00t:
-
Charlie Woodburn on his new E9 in Stennis Ford.
Something's Burning E9 7a - Charlie Woodburn 1st Ascent on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/45194606)
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What is going on with Markus' harness? Looks like he has tied into the waist band of his shorts. Maybe the fabric is as strong as he is...
-
:o 5:25
-
Enzo Oddo Shreds The Red on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/42434924)
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What is going on with Markus' harness? Looks like he has tied into the waist band of his shorts. Maybe the fabric is as strong as he is...
He has... http://www.mammut.ch/en/productDetail/211001150_v_7193/Realization+Short.html (http://www.mammut.ch/en/productDetail/211001150_v_7193/Realization+Short.html)
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What is going on with Markus' harness? Looks like he has tied into the waist band of his shorts. Maybe the fabric is as strong as he is...
He has... http://www.mammut.ch/en/productDetail/211001150_v_7193/Realization+Short.html (http://www.mammut.ch/en/productDetail/211001150_v_7193/Realization+Short.html)
brilliant - deadhanging shorts
-
I just had a 'Realization (http://bouldersuk.com/index.php/mammut-realization)' that my life is not complete without a pair of 175 shorts that I can only wear climbing (or a 175 harness that I can only wear when it's warm).
-
Holy ballsac!
-
I just had a 'Realization (http://bouldersuk.com/index.php/mammut-realization)' that my life is not complete without a pair of 175 shorts that I can only wear climbing (or a 175 harness that I can only wear when it's warm).
The front of those shorts look like some sort of weird Mr Potato Head.
-
Except you have to provide the nose and moustache
-
What is going on with Markus' harness? Looks like he has tied into the waist band of his shorts. Maybe the fabric is as strong as he is...
He has... http://www.mammut.ch/en/productDetail/211001150_v_7193/Realization+Short.html (http://www.mammut.ch/en/productDetail/211001150_v_7193/Realization+Short.html)
Interesting concept but looks to me like a solution to a problem that doesn't really exist.
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Interesting concept but looks to me like a solution to a problem that doesn't really exist.
Thats never stopped anyone before....
Profit is the mother of invention
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Interesting concept but looks to me like a problem that didn't really exist until they invented this ridiculous item.
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I just had a 'Realization (http://bouldersuk.com/index.php/mammut-realization)' that my life is not complete without a pair of 175 shorts that I can only wear climbing (or a 175 harness that I can only wear when it's warm).
I dunno, you could probably get them over some fancy softshell pants. It'll be all the rage next season on the Ben.
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What is going on with Markus' harness? Looks like he has tied into the waist band of his shorts. Maybe the fabric is as strong as he is...
He has... http://www.mammut.ch/en/productDetail/211001150_v_7193/Realization+Short.html (http://www.mammut.ch/en/productDetail/211001150_v_7193/Realization+Short.html)
brilliant - deadhanging shorts
what next, a pair of rockshoes integrated into your jeans?
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The Eye of Odin (8c+) first ascent on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/45194834)
Ringo star at 1:30.
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What is going on with Markus' harness? Looks like he has tied into the waist band of his shorts. Maybe the fabric is as strong as he is...
He has... http://www.mammut.ch/en/productDetail/211001150_v_7193/Realization+Short.html (http://www.mammut.ch/en/productDetail/211001150_v_7193/Realization+Short.html)
brilliant - deadhanging shorts
what next, a pair of rockshoes integrated into your jeans?
They are working on integrating a chalk bag and a rope into the shorts
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next thing will be the long trousers version, with built-in knee pads.
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like the ones plumbers use? good idea haha
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next thing will be the long trousers version, with built-in knee pads.
I think the idea has legs actually. If you pardon the pun
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;D
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load more consumed clips put on today, reminds me, have to go do bloodrush....
http://www.youtube.com/user/crimperE6/videos?view=0 (http://www.youtube.com/user/crimperE6/videos?view=0)
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Bloodrush is very cool and much easier than it has any right to be. The new guide is slightly wrong in that I did it without the runner in Saucius on the second ascent (I had one on the other side so low the draw was literally lying in the heather).
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noted! remember seeing that elsewhere. hell of a line!
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Zombie Roof on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/45591691)
:thumbsup:
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Cheers for the heads up Nath.
This looks amazing!
dana awen (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbmkKxdny_A#)
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Ienjoyed the Zombie Roof short, nicely done.
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Edu Marin Pengim Penjam 8c(5.14b) OnSight on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/45659356)
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VIDEO PROFILE: BD athlete Barbara Zangerl climbing Super Crill (8a) near Ticino, Switzerland on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/45588409)
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Interesting film:
http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/video/2012/jul/17/utah-canyonlands-climbing-video (http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/video/2012/jul/17/utah-canyonlands-climbing-video)
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Interesting film:
http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/video/2012/jul/17/utah-canyonlands-climbing-video (http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/video/2012/jul/17/utah-canyonlands-climbing-video)
really enjoyed that, good find.
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load more consumed clips put on today, reminds me, have to go do bloodrush....
http://www.youtube.com/user/crimperE6/videos?view=0 (http://www.youtube.com/user/crimperE6/videos?view=0)
I remember seeing this film years ago. There was some terrifying footage of someone falling off Harder Faster, IIRC.
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VIDEO PROFILE: BD athlete Barbara Zangerl climbing Super Crill (8a) near Ticino, Switzerland on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/45588409)
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World record repost there! Same page, 3 posts up, and a big video image for guidance :dance1:
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harder faster fail.avi (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NhxEMh6upSo#)
more consumed clips on again ;D
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It's the overall atmosphere that makes that one....eerie field recordings noises and such a bleak looking day...
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anymore info on this?
chocolate (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wgEVg3eJdYw#ws)
can see its at shining clough, is it in the new moors guide?
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Interesting film:
http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/video/2012/jul/17/utah-canyonlands-climbing-video (http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/video/2012/jul/17/utah-canyonlands-climbing-video)
really enjoyed that, good find.
Agreed, very nice balance of adventure and self exploration without getting all zen n'shit. What's more impressive was that there wasn't really any climbing in it. I liked his objective of the day " To get everyone to as high as they want to go and then back down safely", made a nice change from "We're going to push it to the max and it's going to be like totally rad".
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Interesting film:
http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/video/2012/jul/17/utah-canyonlands-climbing-video (http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/video/2012/jul/17/utah-canyonlands-climbing-video)
really enjoyed that, good find.
Agreed, very nice balance of adventure and self exploration without getting all zen n'shit. What's more impressive was that there wasn't really any climbing in it. I liked his objective of the day " To get everyone to as high as they want to go and then back down safely", made a nice change from "We're going to push it to the max and it's going to be like totally rad".
+1
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can see its at shining clough, is it in the new moors guide?
I would assume so, it's pretty well researched, and there were plenty of bumpy boys involved (Mark S, Andi Turner, The Enigma etc) checking out some of the harder stuff on the moors.
This is what I liked about the Consumed stuff....although the excess of constant headpointing is slightly nauseating and Dan Honneyman makes Jason Kehl look restrained and peaceful, their clips do show a lot of cool and interesting looking routes you never see videos or even photos of....and some gems no-one's even heard of.
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Dan Honneyman makes Jason Kehl look restrained and peaceful
:lol:
their clips do show a lot of cool and interesting looking routes you never see videos or even photos of....and some gems no-one's even heard of.
spot on, anyone know where soft shapes counting is? looks ace.
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anymore info on this?
can see its at shining clough, is it in the new moors guide?
Hven't watched it but presume its 'Cover me In Chocolate and Feed me to the Lesbians' the direct on Big Wall.
Another big thumbs up for Crusher's film - I've heard so many outrageous tales about him that his calm and happy approach totally threw me, not what I was expecting at all.
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anymore info on this?
can see its at shining clough, is it in the new moors guide?
Hven't watched it but presume its 'Cover me In Chocolate and Feed me to the Lesbians' the direct on Big Wall.
It is
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anymore info on this?
can see its at shining clough, is it in the new moors guide?
Hven't watched it but presume its 'Cover me In Chocolate and Feed me to the Lesbians' the direct on Big Wall.
It is
Cheers for the info!
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Pure gold...
Meltdown, 9a. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=im_RDycsbwM#)
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Interesting film:
http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/video/2012/jul/17/utah-canyonlands-climbing-video (http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/video/2012/jul/17/utah-canyonlands-climbing-video)
Very nice, inspiring.
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Pure gold...
Meltdown, 9a. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=im_RDycsbwM#)
Can't believe Al Hughes has had that under his bed for so long. Great find
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Climbing on 'Natures Poreclain' (http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p00wb64p)
Also has a some stuff on Gogarth (http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p00wb6dg)
Saw Dawes him in a pub just off the A55 we'd stopped in on the way back from a weekend in Llanberis sometime last year I think and he was having dinner with what sounded like a film crew from the snippets over-heard from the bar.
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shock of the new, a film by some climbers (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V3DTXq289wk#)
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keeping on the esoteric grit front....
Highball That You Bastards! E7 6b on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/46296707)
cheers to bonjoy for the belay!
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You're unreal Nathan!
I don't believe you exist!
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Was good up there on Sat. Half decent nick and not a midge in sight. Beats scratching around trying to find dry lime when everything's seeping, condensed or in the sun!
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Nice work! Amazingly Tetler soloed this as he didn't trust that flake at all - he didn't touch it on the lead and wouldn't put any gear in it (have a look at the chalk below). And you mantelled it with a sling around it - yikes!
James Pearson was there the day Ben did it, and was clearly angling for a quick second ascent. That soon stopped when he pulled a hold off the start, decked out on stretch, all before taking a closer look at the booming flake and scrittly top for himself... he muttered something about Ben being off his head.
Much prefer the original name Heartthrob. Ben's always been popular with the ladies...
(http://cdn.c.photoshelter.com/img-get/I0000XX1Ao2nVw2k/s/860/860/AL-cli-kin01.jpg) (http://adamlong.photoshelter.com/image/I0000XX1Ao2nVw2k)
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. . .And you mantelled it with a sling around it - yikes!
Luckily Nathan weighs around the same as a bag of chips
Nice one Nath and Tetler :strongbench: great pic, the flake looks particularly shipwrecked there
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the flake looks particularly shipwrecked there
Why is it that I always 'hear' the word 'shipwreck' in my head with a distinctly Northern Irish accent? :shrug: :P
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Nice work! Amazingly Tetler soloed this as he didn't trust that flake at all - he didn't touch it on the lead and wouldn't put any gear in it (have a look at the chalk below). And you mantelled it with a sling around it - yikes!
I'd seen the chalk on the photo but that rock up seemed sketchy and the slopers felt awful in the sun. The leftwards exit just happened to be easier, not that you'd trust the flake really!
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It felt okayish to stand on top of (on a toprope), especially on its far left. You're on good handholds as you teeter over the worst bit. You would NOT want to test the sling though, but as I said to Leeroy, if you fall off the top without it you WILL be dead, if you fall off with it you MIGHT be dead (under a flake). Avoiding it totally looked gnarly, especially with sun on the slopers.
To be honest I thought the bit lower down was more worrying. The holds Ben is stood on in the photo are over-positive up pointing little flakes that you have to do a huge lock off on.
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Great looking line. I remember going over there one year and being so knackered with the walk-in that I never climbed anything! Such a wimp.
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Could this now become the Peak District's most notorious flake now that the Parthian flake has sunk? Let's get Seb up there to test it.
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I'd seen the chalk on the photo but that rock up seemed sketchy and the slopers felt awful in the sun. The leftwards exit just happened to be easier, not that you'd trust the flake really!
I thought that was the E7 bit, but sounds like your version would just be death by a different agent! E7 6a?
The holds Ben is stood on in the photo are over-positive up pointing little flakes that you have to do a huge lock off on.
Indeed, as James found out! I guess the worst one has gone at least...
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I love watching people campusing on one finger.
Jochen Perschmann in Kawaschuwu 11-/11 on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/42626890)
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I've just watched that Shock of the New vid right through and the lack of comment here is a little surprising..... actually, I really don't know what to make of it myself!
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I've just watched that Shock of the New vid right through and the lack of comment here is a little surprising..... actually, I really don't know what to make of it myself!
It was a good vid. The end is hard to watch. Hope it wasn't as bad as it looked?
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the lack of comment here is a little surprising..... actually, I really don't know what to make of it myself!
Its quite old (I certainly saw it a good couple of years ago). Maybe others have too and that might go someway to explaining the lack of comments. :shrug:
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I suspect that's the case.
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:o slack---line and SA Chris in shock agreement!!! :-[ :-* :P
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I know. It horrifed me as I typed that.
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;D
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I've watched it a few times on DVD, long with its companions, so I suspect that's why it's not been discussed that much. It has a charm of its own with the single camera stuff and Doylo's (?) nervous laugh at the end.
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http://youtu.be/IYIvX5vNA6s (http://youtu.be/IYIvX5vNA6s)
Consumed has also been uploaded.
I found this best watched with Dan's audio commentary turned on. Wonder if that could also be uploaded?
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The commentaries on both are great.
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I love watching people campusing on one finger.
Jochen Perschmann in Kawaschuwu 11-/11 on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/42626890)
And who doesn't, eh? Cool looking route, cool looking spot.
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Dave: SOTN and Consumed have been around for a while, and a lot of the clips have been up already on Dan's Youtube. It is very cool seeing lots of routes you don't normally see, and to see just how much easier everything looks with pre-practised moves and pre-placed gear.
Watching the Weather Report as a hidden bonus on the Consumed DVD....once was enough for that :sick:
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I love watching people campusing on one finger.
Jochen Perschmann in Kawaschuwu 11-/11 on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/42626890)
And who doesn't, eh? Cool looking route, cool looking spot.
I think it is Grunne Holle [sp?] in't frankenjura
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I love watching people campusing on one finger.
That's totally excellent.
Hope he downclimbed from the top preclipped draw before each attempt though or Barrows will be sending the ethics police round.
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Hope he downclimbed from the top preclipped draw before each attempt though or Barrows will be sending the ethics police round.
:lol: You should see me now, preclipping the hell out of everything within reach. I have no ethics.
And who doesn't, eh?
Me. It makes my tendons hurt to watch!
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I love watching people campusing on one finger.
I think that's a project which Chris Cubitt got really close to doing a few years back....
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It was a good vid. The end is hard to watch. Hope it wasn't as bad as it looked?
Dave: SOTN and Consumed have been around for a while, and a lot of the clips have been up already on Dan's Youtube. It is very cool seeing lots of routes you don't normally see, and to see just how much easier everything looks with pre-practised moves and pre-placed gear.
Watching the Weather Report as a hidden bonus on the Consumed DVD....once was enough for that :sick:
I've watched it a few times on DVD, long with its companions, so I suspect that's why it's not been discussed that much. It has a charm of its own with the single camera stuff and Doylo's (?) nervous laugh at the end.
Thanks all, having moved to a backward corner of a backward land (did I just type that? :whistle:) I hadn't even heard of it before, I thought it was great generally although one or two of the harder solos were a tad unnerving. I'm with Fiend on the Weather Report bit though.
:o slack---line and SA Chris in shock agreement!!! :-[ :-* :P
Struth, what have I done!! :sorry:
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Love it. Needed a bit more van pr0n though.
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Why this only has 100 views i dont know. Probably because most people on here saw it on the bbc in the 80s!
Pete Livesey climbing Face Route (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sjFRpBtDchE#)
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The One Who Sleeps On The Cliff
My home is only 80 square feet
Sounds like a flat I used to live in.
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Grave Diggers (excerpt from 'On Sight' cult climbing film) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6SxH2ILd74c#ws)
Obviously everyone's seen this, but worth a rewatch, especially for Jack's comments at the end:
"I only did it because you guys did it....I didn't want to do it....I didn't like it" :lol:
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Video of Jordan i shot for Wild country.
Jordan Buys - Cry Freedom 8b+ on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/45963956)
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Nice tune
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A very well put-together film I thought, really capturing the experience of being up on El Cap. It must be hard to get footage this good when you are one of the climbing team.
Mostly aid climbing, which you could easily argue is not climbing at all but rope-access done badly. Die-hards can forward to the dream sequences (8.00-10.00; 19.30-21.30) which features some real climbing, even a little bouldering...
Yosemite on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/47915373)
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For those who visited Arapiles back in the 80s, this might bring back some memories.
Free Climbing Part 2 - Hard Rock Climbing (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OmDP1RRh2CI#)
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https://vimeo.com/48791021
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Chris Sharma - BACK in Cse - Sport climbing and bolting in France on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/48791021)
Fixed that for you. ;)
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Strong orange look! :clap2:
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Well inspiring. Ace seeing the elite aiding up mega new lines on sky hooks
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Chris Sharma - BACK in Cse - Sport climbing and bolting in France on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/48791021)
Fixed that for you. ;)
I've been away from a computer for too long :-[
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I liked the home made adjustable daisy-chain. Clever!
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REEL ROCK 7 Trailer (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VyUoVVDEa-E#ws)
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shock of the new, a film by some climbers (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V3DTXq289wk#)
This is frankly awesome - thank you for posting this. No poncey irrelevant bits, just some really impressive stuff. You could tell things weren't looking good on Weather Report - was the climber okay? looked like a broken femur :sick: :blink:
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You could tell things weren't looking good on Weather Report - was the climber okay? looked like a broken femur :sick: :blink:
Broke their femur! :clown:
(I don't actually know the actual outcome)
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Two contrasting videos...
Algorithm on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/49691207)
The Climbing of Mt. Pomiu, China (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PsdJNJPyITI#ws)
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Just to go back (again!) to The Shock of The New video... Absolutely stonking! Great sound track, really amazing footage. Was bricking it watching the ascents of Appointment with Fear, the route after Heartbeat City (don't think it was credited?) and 10,000 Maniacs. Fantastic!
Who made it? (Doyle?)?
Who were the climbers?
Was the guy who fell off Weather Report ok?
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Dan Honeyman and co.
Dan and Tom de Gay mostly (from memory), the latter taking the lob from Weather Report. (pelvis was it?)
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Algorithm on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/49691207)
Inspiring stuff, I like it!
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Mina doing MECCA over on the other channel
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=4953 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=4953)
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Was just about to post "Exceptionally cute blonde kneebar-rests here way up now-soft-8b route whilst Nick Brown manages to pause spitting bile at Americans long enough to film it" ;).
Excellent squeaking at the end. Pity they couldn't have the same footage quality for the actual ascent, but a nice clip. Good effort!
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Some more of that radio control helicopter footage..... but this time on Trango Tower:
Mammut 150 Years: Peak Project: Trango Tower, Pakistan (6286m / 20,623ft) - RC Helicopter Sample Footage on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/50029357)
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wow... just as I was getting used to the glacier/camp overfly shots... Boom.. altitude climbing ones.. amazing.
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yeah, they were nice/impressive enough and then they slap you in the face with the good stuff. just 'sample footage' too...
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Getting cheaper... at least they're electric so not that noisy...
I know a tiny bit about UAV's from work (some research on looking at ways to easily aquire Aerial photography etc..) and it looked like this chap (first clip) had some glasses/goggles that give you a 'out of the cockpit' view as you're flying.. impressive stuff..
You're ferked if theres any wind though! Wonder how many times he binned it!
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Impressive photography, dreadful music.
I'd be careful flying a pilotless drone in Pakistan in case someone got the wrong impression.
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Amazing. Wonder what the range is? (of the helicopter, not the mountain range).
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Slovak Direct, Denali - Houseman/Bullock (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QUMHPnV8qz0#ws)
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All four parts of the Arctyrex "This Way" profiles (of which thesiger has posted part 2 above)
"THIS WAY" Episode1 - Squamish - Genius Loci on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/47592057)
"THIS WAY" Episode 2 - SQUAMISH - Solo on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/48019117)
"THIS WAY" Episode 3 - Blue Ice on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/49030862)
"THIS WAY" Episode 4 - Spray Ice on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/49862068)
Crazy ice-climbing in the fourth!
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Just insane. Be nice to see more actual climbing in it though.
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https://vimeo.com/50760632
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Mina Leslie-Wujastyk climbs Mecca on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/50760632)
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From Carlisle slapper...
short snippet of caff's successful headpoint ascent of the crux pitch of the longhope E8 7A, in somewhat adverse weather! (http://www.flickr.com/photos/beastmaker/8056219162/#secret186f653874in/photostream)
Not exactly quality but shows the minging conditions he was climbing in :blink:
EDIT : Nice, Flickr vids now automagically embed :clap2:
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Not much actual chuffing, but hey, it's Sasha.
http://youtu.be/L-LRkwKkT2A (http://youtu.be/L-LRkwKkT2A)
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a bit depressing she is taken in (seemingly) by all that faux technology crap.
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Well, she's just a kid in many respects. I wonder how her other sponsors feel about her association with such a quacky product?
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Pete Whittaker, First Ascent of Psychosomatic Pigeon, E7 6C, Burbage South, Peak District UK on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/50749798)
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Well, she's just a kid in many respects. I wonder how her other sponsors feel about her association with such a quacky product?
Product? I skipped the adverts, doesn't everyone?
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Pete Whittaker, First Ascent of Psychosomatic Pigeon, E7 6C, Burbage South, Peak District UK on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/50749798)
essential stuck on tea towels
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Well, she's just a kid in many respects. I wonder how her other sponsors feel about her association with such a quacky product?
Product? I skipped the adverts, doesn't everyone?
Well, watch it again then.
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Patagonia Winter on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/49581315)
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Nice route name, and he's matched his quickdraws to his hair perfectly.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0JQHl_HbXhY# (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0JQHl_HbXhY#)!
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Monos aplenty @ 8min.
http://island.io/zzC6buzI (http://island.io/zzC6buzI)
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"God's speed Daniel, I've got you on belay. God's speed, God's speed"
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Venezuela Jungle Jam Teaser on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/51717325)
Looks like it should be as good as Asgard Jamming and Vertical Sailing (http://www.xpedition.be/?page_id=451). :clap2:
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Bouldering and chuffing. Looks like it could be good
http://player.vimeo.com/video/52226582 (http://player.vimeo.com/video/52226582)
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Push It Trailer on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/52226582)
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DFBWGC: The Movie
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The Elder Statesman (9a) by Manuel Brunn (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlqlgZhwKPg#ws)
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The Elder Statesman (9a) by Manuel Brunn (http://The Elder Statesman (9a) by Manuel Brunn)
Nice, some proper thin climbing in that :)
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Nice route name, and he's matched his quickdraws to his hair perfectly.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0JQHl_HbXhY# (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0JQHl_HbXhY#)!
And harness....
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Monos aplenty @ 8min.
http://island.io/zzC6buzI (http://island.io/zzC6buzI)
Mmmmm cool looking rock, I'd like to climb there if there is any easy stuff :) Would like to have more close-up footage tho.
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Push It Trailer on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/52226582)
Thanks Slackers, that's a lot better.
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:spank: :2thumbsup:
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Push It Trailer on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/52226582)
Thanks Slackers, that's a lot better.
It won "People's Choice" award at Edinburgh Mountaint Film Festival (https://twitter.com/HotAches/status/262661880294809600) (from @HotAches)
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Forthcoming film Odyssey will be free to stream on-line for 10 days from its premier at the Climbing Works on the 10th November 2012 (http://www.heason.net/news/2012/10/29/Odyssey_producer_sings_praises_of_UK_trad_climbing/)
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Forthcoming film Odyssey will be free to stream on-line for 10 days from its premier at the Climbing Works on the 10th November 2012 (http://www.heason.net/news/2012/10/29/Odyssey_producer_sings_praises_of_UK_trad_climbing/)
Come on!
24 minutes late now!
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up now (http://hotaches.com/shop/odyssey/)
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Well, I thought that was ace. Hazels whipper off strawberries was particularly class
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Going to watch this later, great of Hot Aches and TNF to put it online & stream for free :)
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I enjoyed it, great filming and some great whippers. My only gripe was that it's a shame they decided to put the outcome of the climb with the name at the start of each clip but possibly most of us already knew the flashs/onsights through the press.
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I enjoyed it, great filming and some great whippers. My only gripe was that it's a shame they decided to put the outcome of the climb with the name at the start of each clip but possibly most of us already knew the flashs/onsights through the press.
Only half-way through, but my impression was not that its the outcome, rather its the style in which it is being attempted. :shrug:
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red river gorge (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r_p_BOyjxpA#ws)
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I enjoyed it, great filming and some great whippers. My only gripe was that it's a shame they decided to put the outcome of the climb with the name at the start of each clip but possibly most of us already knew the flashs/onsights through the press.
Only half-way through, but my impression was not that its the outcome, rather its the style in which it is being attempted. :shrug:
yes actually that makes sense, I didn't see from that perspective, :slap:
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Watched it today, really enjoyed it!
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Good stuff, the Strawberies and Pembroke sections were the best and had my hands properly sweating, I wish there had been more Northumberland tho. The interviews and stuff were pretty decent. Caroline & Hazel both :wub: , H is so squeaky.
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Alternative version of the above Lachat video in Red River (longer with less talking)
Red River Gorge the movie (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fco-hX0PW_c#ws)
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That rrg vid is making me way too psyched!
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http://vimeo.com/channels/blackdiamond/53636034 (http://vimeo.com/channels/blackdiamond/53636034)
More red river crushing from ondra... amazing!
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http://vimeo.com/channels/blackdiamond/53636034#/channels/blackdiamond/50703531 (http://vimeo.com/channels/blackdiamond/53636034#/channels/blackdiamond/50703531)
A short film about Kevin Aglae Buoux :bounce:
Don't get why this won't embed, but there you go. Click and drool anyway.
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VIDEO PROFILE: BD athlete Kvin Agla climbing in Buoux, France on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/50703531)
You were pasting the URL for the video on BD's channel rather than the URL for the video itself.
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Thanks.
I like his description of the holds in the Bombe Bleu - "ultra traumatisant". Doesn't really need translating.
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BD athletes Cedar Wright and Kate Rutherford climbing Ariana on the Diamond of Long's Peak on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/50700100)
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Bit of a cheesy voice over...
Climbing Chronicles - Adventuring around the Globe - Episode 3 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bcmLetMuTao#ws)
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http://vimeo.com/channels/blackdiamond/53636034#/channels/blackdiamond/50703531 (http://vimeo.com/channels/blackdiamond/53636034#/channels/blackdiamond/50703531)
A short film about Kevin Aglae Buoux :bounce:
Was just going to post this. Some great footage of the classics and the ultimate project. Get to it Ondra!
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I'm syked for Buoux now!
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Bit of a cheesy voice over...
It's absolute drivel. Couldn't they at least tried to have got a climber to co-commentate it??
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Le Bombe Bleau needs dispatching! Buoux needs to be put back on the map
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That Bout 'Chou (http://www.grimper.com/actu-premier-8b-feminin-buoux-florence-pinet) thing looks awesome. What a line.
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Le Bombe Bleau needs dispatching! Buoux needs to be put back on the map
Planetmountain just posted a story/interview with Iker Pou, he of the steel finger tendons who has climbed 9a+ mono horror shows in Margalef, where he's projecting the route.
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A great vid from 'Smith Rock TV' of To Bolt or not to be, a 14 bolt vertical 8b+ in Smith Rock, Oregon climbed by Scott Franklin. Looks nails!
http://smithrock.tv/feature-programs/01-11/scott-franklin.html (http://smithrock.tv/feature-programs/01-11/scott-franklin.html)
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Can someone find me that video clip of some chick doing a typical european sport climb, then at the top doing a massive backflip jump off instead of lowering off. I really want to see it again, have tried searching here and Youtube and can't find it.... :???:
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Not a chick but Michael Fusselier does one in the recent RRG movie of theirs
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A great vid from 'Smith Rock TV' of To Bolt or not to be, a 14 bolt vertical 8b+ in Smith Rock, Oregon climbed by Scott Franklin. Looks nails!
http://smithrock.tv/feature-programs/01-11/scott-franklin.html (http://smithrock.tv/feature-programs/01-11/scott-franklin.html)
Remember Jerry saying the hardest thing about it was not forgetting which bit you were on.
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Mcclure fell very high on the onsight of Bolt years and years ago
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Kind of climbing related (best watched 720p in full screen)
THE ALPS IMAX (Complete HD) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vkA7vqTi3R8#ws)
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Petzl RocTrip Argentina 2012 - epic moments on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/54353927)
I'm sure there'll be a longer version in due course once edited.
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Not a chick but Michael Fusselier does one in the recent RRG movie of theirs
Yeah that's what reminded me. I had a skim through pages 50-30 of this thread and couldn't find the damn thing >:(
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This may have already been posted, can't remember (and don't have time to check)
Gimp Monkeys on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/51767176)
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La' Intensity - A Talk with Silvia Vidal on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/54385083)
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:o :bow:
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adidas Outdoor: Mayan Smith-Gobat - Punks in the Gym (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00cQB4_pagY#ws)
is it sacrilegious to say it does not look like a brilliant route?
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Not sure the video does it justice. It's an attractive wall when you stand underneath it.
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Leo Houlding. Savage horse 9- [E9 6c] (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=10kGCYf68Bg#ws)
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Cerro Torre - Mountaineering in Patagonia (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V_fGq3ZzN3U#ws)
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Leo Houlding. Savage horse 9- [E9 6c] (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=10kGCYf68Bg#ws)
I remember when that was written up in the mags. Back when headpointing was cool :P
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Seems a long time ago then!
Sweden is still cool.
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http://vimeo.com/53558019# (http://vimeo.com/53558019#)
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http://youtu.be/rugoETlUAVI (http://youtu.be/rugoETlUAVI)
Alas, no subs, but most people interviewed articulate well, so the documentary is still reasonably easy to understand.
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Kevin Jorgeson came into my work to do a talk and we just published the video, link below. He mostly talked about big walls (specifically, the Dawn Wall project) rather than highballing, and a bit about his new coaching venture, Pro Climbers International. Some interesting / funny stuff, but I got the impression he was gearing it a little towards people who'd not been climbing before. I wasn't entirely sure where to put it on the board, but given it's mostly about chuffing and it's a video...
Kevin Jorgeson: "The Fun Scale", Authors at Google (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vsl4evw0a7Q#ws)
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GORE-TEX Experience Tour: First free ascent of Bongo Bar with Dave MacLeod (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x4aeP5c5Cg4#ws)
Dave Mac in Norway
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Scottish Winter on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/54191433)
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In the intrest of sampling every pew in this broad church I know I'll have a try at it and im sure it really is amazing but that video does not sell it to me one ioata. Cold, wet and scractchy. Good effort getting the camera out though!
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In the intrest of sampling every pew in this broad church I know I'll have a try at it and im sure it really is amazing but that video does not sell it to me one ioata. Cold, wet and scractchy. Good effort getting the camera out though!
My regular climbing partner pretty much refuses point-blank to go winter climbing in Scotland after having spent five years in Canada and ice-climbing there for this very reason.
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Ashima Shiraishi Climbing Lucifer and Southern Smoke on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/55184231)
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Nina Caprez and Cedric Lachat on Silbergeier. Amazing-looking alpine limestone, charming story, some great photography, and Cedric being what passes for wacky in Switzerland.
Silbergeier - Nina Caprez & Cedric Lachat (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AN5CDewKVdk#ws)
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:2thumbsup: Good find, looks brilliant.
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Hard Northern Irish trad
In The Middle on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/56466581)
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Great video in the same vein as their "Underdeveloped" (not all in Norther Ireland though, looks like the Mournes).
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Great video in the same vein as their "Underdeveloped" (not all in Norther Ireland though, looks like the Mournes).
The Mournes are in Northern Ireland.
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:oops: Need to improve my geography knowledge of NI (although keeping my mouth shut would be an easier option!)
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http://vimeo.com/56532714# (http://vimeo.com/56532714#)
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Road to Free Rider - A climbing movie by Oli Lyon (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1T_x6NXQyFA#ws)
Anyone who tries filming at the same time as climbing a wall deserves to be in the Quality section.
Footage of The Nose, Freeblast and abseiling The Salathe. How could someone fall out of the Half Dollar (.10c) and yet manage the moves on the boulder problem pitch?!
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Been footage/shots of this for the last couple of years, but its an absolutely crazy place...
BD athletes Klemen Premrl and Tim Emmett making the first and second ascents of Wolverine (WI11) at Helmcken Fall, Canada on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/56771496)
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Escalada En Espaa: Playing Nice with Chris Sharma on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/57070072)
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Odd.
MAN YOGA [New Mixed Route on the Stanley Headwall] on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/33005769)
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Don't think I've saw it posted yet, but : 'Hot Aches Productions
We've just uploaded all the WideBoyz DVD extras (1hr+) to the website! Just head to http://hotaches.com/climbing-films/wide-boyz/ (http://hotaches.com/climbing-films/wide-boyz/) and click on the 'Extras' tab.' Giving them your name and email address unlocks roughly an hours worth of bonus footage. I haven't found a way to link straight to the video, I'm guessing it's disabled to get them more people for the mailing list though.
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I used to love this documentary when i was a kid and Dawes was my hero. Could quote the whole thing! 'E9 6c is out there on the street every night' :clap2:
http://youtu.be/urX7x68jCh8 (http://youtu.be/urX7x68jCh8)
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On the stone monkey (?) reissue, tis cool stuff, will rewatch.
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It's a different one i think? This was a short on BBc2
More Redhead climbing buildings:
http://youtu.be/wGKtEB-8IXE (http://youtu.be/wGKtEB-8IXE)
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OMG the paper mache cock at 4:27, Not seen that since Reheads Lescar lecture when most walked out. Love him!
7:11. 'He chases his phallus around toyland'!! :w00t: :w00t: :w00t: :w00t: :w00t:
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Didn't someone steal that cock?
Seeing these videos again has made my year (so far).
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gold!
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More Redhead climbing buildings:
http://youtu.be/wGKtEB-8IXE (http://youtu.be/wGKtEB-8IXE)
:icon_beerchug:
That is the easily the best climbing film I've ever watched. It should be essential viewing for any and every boring climbing flick-maker.
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Absolutely everything I want in a man!
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Yeah the cock was nicked at a Brincliffe lecture by someone called Carolyn because the lecture was boring. JR just pressed play on a video and sat through it.
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it wasn't boring, it was the best thing ever. I'd love to hear that audio tape again-'trying to sink a floater with a piss jet'. So handsome
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I only rarely check planetfear these days, since they swung so far towards the mtb / adventure racing market and away from climbing, but bugger me if they didn't post an interview with Johnny (http://planetfear.com/news/Johnny_Dawes_Full_Of_Myself_Interview_2857.html) yesterday:
(http://youtu.be/D88mEgfHJ-I)
Haven't watched it yet - am at work - but I find it hard to see how an interview with Johnny could fail to be quality.
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Good stuff....cabbage cake lol.
John Horscroft does a good job there too.
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Ninjas Factory, Talo Martn in La Pedriza, Madrid. on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/57481231)
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He clips bolt #2 at 0:28 and bolt #3 at 1:14.
Amazing looking route. Would love to see footage of some of the F8b slabs at La Pedriza.
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Would love to see footage of some of the F8b slabs at La Pedriza.
Si Senor!
Art-Herencia, 8b+ slab in La Pedriza, Spain on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/19211827)
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Did anyone else attend the showing at Kendal Wall of Hock's short film of Caff climbing the Meltdown? It was absolutely mint! :bow:
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Did anyone else attend the showing at Kendal Wall of Hock's short film of Caff climbing the Meltdown? It was absolutely mint! :bow:
I wasn't there but hock has showed me it. Very nice! Good Dawes interview
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http://youtu.be/urX7x68jCh8 (http://youtu.be/urX7x68jCh8)
Redhead's perspective...
It was from my warehouse home here that my involvement with E9 6c was filmed and recorded. This happened within the last few weeks of my departure from this special perch. John Mortimers son, Jeremy, produced an excellent piece for Radio Three called, Between the Ears. Dominic Clemence produced and directed the film for BBC2. This was the attempted story of The Indian Face, a fierce route on the cathedral of rock, Clogwyn Du Arddu, on the flank of Snowdon. I liked the bit where I am sat under my climbing wall in the studio flippantly explaining the image I painted on the scar where the flake had been. This small granite flake had come away in my arms whilst testing the peg that had been smashed into its side. I drew a quick sketch on the wall of the hunt, something that had stayed with me from viewing the Lascaux Caves in France. Only two people had seen it. Paul Williams had photographed it and Johnny Dawes had scraped it off (or rather, an acolyte had scraped it off). One had died and the other had seemingly gone mad!
The late Paul Williams photograph of John Redhead's notorious Indian Face painting
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-V4-yaQGISNs/Tq0a_Fh5lOI/AAAAAAAABS0/NvRKkd6FEgE/s1600/indianfacepaintingx1.jpeg.jpg (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-V4-yaQGISNs/Tq0a_Fh5lOI/AAAAAAAABS0/NvRKkd6FEgE/s1600/indianfacepaintingx1.jpeg.jpg)
I joke, but I had to get Johnny back in the script when he became defensive about my rant against top-roping. I stand by my argument that top-roping damages the rock! Bolt, peg, top-roping ego damage done! The narrative needed his feedback and method of approach. It was important because it set the scene. My attempts on the line were foolish, naive and dangerously pushed my luck. His determination and intense, practiced approach won the day. I took a huge, very lucky fall. Warriors or not, I think we both enjoyed negotiating with our lives in our own way. Perhaps the rock was secondary to the psychopathy that we both moved through? And out of? I think it a great historical episode and one that the youths of today will have to take on board and finish off? Or perhaps not. Perhaps it was a full stop. The youths of today have moved on by doing their own thing that in turn moves on towards their own full stop. They are emerged in their own paragraph. An endless series of climbings punctuation. Perhaps a few will turn a few pages back
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such great writing
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Agreed, amazing stuff. Please can someone get Redhead and Dave Graham in the same room and film it?
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:agree: Fantastic stuff.
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'E9 6c is out there on the street every night'
I can't believe he says this with a straight face! Total legend
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His writing is one of the main reasons I've kept The Power Of Climbing.
That and it being unsellable due to having the "Jasper Sharpe" pages ripped and and anally abused.
Good quotes above, one of his more balanced views on IF.
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:lol:
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Great video about Tommy Caldwell -
(http://youtu.be/1J67hpI4wOk)
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Moment of Joy
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s5VGi88nDJo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s5VGi88nDJo#)
Hlaska is fearsome.
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This:
The Nose, El Capitan 2011 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bxvilH7aTq0#ws)
made me laugh quite a lot. Winning by attrition and shear stupidity, 6 days after heart surgery and with [wet] down insulation!
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http://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=related&v=588aedmbPs0 (http://m.youtube.com/watch?feature=related&v=588aedmbPs0)
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this link might work better for non mobile users
aruD aruD aL (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=588aedmbPs0#noexternalembed-ws)
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iPad sorry. Realised towards the end... It's the reel rock ain't it?
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Yes, but the footage is mirrored somehow..
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Yes, but the footage is mirrored somehow..
to avoid being automatically detected for copyright or something like that
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just like to say.... it wasnt me if any copyright inspectors ask...
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Climbing Information Films presents: Birds on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/59225315)
:lol:
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funny how the film itself is on itv now. great parody!
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http://vimeo.com/59509662 (http://vimeo.com/59509662)
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I keep losing chunks! - Better keep trying...
What a badass :wub:
Nicely shot video too, those cliffs are somethin else!
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http://youtu.be/Moz11eR8rEY (http://youtu.be/Moz11eR8rEY)
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;D
Top skills, smooth style, and a cool head, by this fella trad climbing a way overhanging bolt route in south Africa.
INSANE Rock Climbing Video - Incredible Trad Rock Climb Techniques (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aQJT4_-kCQ4#ws)
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Drytooling Massive Fall M7 The Deerhunter Dinorwic Slate Quarries (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u48NOh-o_wY#ws)
Got a feeling this one might have been posted before, but what the hell...
Scottish Ice trip in Ben Nevis - English (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uG95yGRaooY#ws)
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Old video, but not sure it's been posted here.
In French (mais avec soutitres), nice editing, nice vibe, beautiful rock.
http://youtu.be/Y3UDkcH5KzI (http://youtu.be/Y3UDkcH5KzI)
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2012 World Bouldering champion (Rustam Gelmanov) ties in to climb cracks, off-widths and The Nose...
Most amusing "I feel like a girl, I can't climb" "If I don't climb this wall.....we will stay forever without beer" :2thumbsup:
В Нос Эль-Капитану [ El-Capitan.The Nose ] on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/57303633)
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I like the flow of this
The Elder Statesman (9a) by Manuel Brunn (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hlqlgZhwKPg#ws)
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Good looking route - like an easier version of Seraphim!
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Great looking line, climbed in style, and nicely shot.
I really like the smooth thumb to finger transition on the wee under cut pocket.
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In The Middle on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/56466581)
Sorry if its been posted before.
EDIT: Just seen that it has but worth a watch if you missed it (Like me!)
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Drew Ruana (13) redpointing Scarface 14a/8b+ at Smith Rocks, Oregon (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=crpSu0q1TUU#)
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*mute*
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James Pearson makes the 3rd ascent of Elder Statesman, HXS 7a, Curbar Edge, Peak District UK on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/60828896)
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That was good. Always thought this route looked pretty shit but it's a very cool move.
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James Pearson makes the 3rd ascent of Elder Statesman, HXS 7a, Curbar Edge, Peak District UK on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/60828896)
great bit of footage, wild move :punk:
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Very good, nicely put together, clear footage of an awesome move, The Dawes would approve :2thumbsup:
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The Roaches on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/60611512)
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epic pastel chino/tie dye combo there.
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I enjoyed that.
You know when someone starts heel-hooking on Elergy...
[SPOILER ALERT]
...it's all about to go horribly wrong.
He looks suitably chastened afterwards. I presume nothing worse than raw palms?
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I've no idea how he managed to fall off there.
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Nor me. We do some funny things when we are gripped though.
On re-watching, some of the creaky flake around the top runner seems to have broken off. How is it looking?
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I've no idea how he managed to fall off there.
Thats scarpas for ya.
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Nor me. We do some funny things when we are gripped though.
On re-watching, some of the creaky flake around the top runner seems to have broken off. How is it looking?
At 47 secs he seems to be knocking off a lot of crap, maybe the ledges are well dirty. And 1:01 a bit of rock definitely snaps off when his rope comes tight on that runner. Lucky it held!
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On re-watching, some of the creaky flake around the top runner seems to have broken off. How is it looking?
Yep a small piece of the flake broke off and his cam held on 2 lobes! All a bit sketchy. Luckily most of the flake is still there and it still takes the same size cam (and a smaller one just above), I did the route just afterwards and upon examining the flake, managed to convince myself that it was still possible to protect the route safely by placing the cam in a slightly different place with a slightly thicker bit of flake...
In his defense those top holds were a bit on the muddy side.
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Some mad shit in that vid! Worrying Elegy gear snappage (put me right off that route!) and the mad choice of gear on CE.
What's Hunky Dory like? It looks like a one mover from a foot ledge with bomber kit right next to you. Is that accurate?
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What's Hunky Dory like? It looks like a one mover from a foot ledge with bomber kit right next to you. Is that accurate?
It was a while ago so my recollection is a little fuzzy, but i remember the starting moves not being that easy. The cams that protect the top are alright, though a little fiddly to get in well.
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Can recommend Push It (http://www.posingproductions.com/video.php?form_action=play&video_id=248) well worth the few fuck-alls it cost. :2thumbsup:
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What's Hunky Dory like? It looks like a one mover from a foot ledge with bomber kit right next to you. Is that accurate?
HAVE YOU EVER EVEN BEEN ON AN E3???? DO YOU KNOW HOW HARD THAT IS!!!?????
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http://vimeo.com/59642247#at=128 (http://vimeo.com/59642247#at=128)
(Climbing starts at ~2:08)
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What's Hunky Dory like? It looks like a one mover from a foot ledge with bomber kit right next to you. Is that accurate?
HAVE YOU EVER EVEN BEEN ON AN E3???? DO YOU KNOW HOW HARD THAT IS!!!?????
Fuuuuuuuu. You're right. Need some Xen board sessions to prepare.
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Incredible aerial footage of Dawn Glanc and Tim Emmett climbing in Iceland's West Fjord.
http://vimeo.com/60519880#at=0 (http://vimeo.com/60519880#at=0)
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VIDEO: BD athlete Adam Ondra making the first ascent of Change, the world's first 9b+ on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/61040319)
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Really enjoyed that. What a stunning route in an incredibly stunning part of the world.
8b route into an 8B+ boulder problem with the second crux to come. WTF?!?! :bow:
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VIDEO: BD athlete Adam Ondra making the first ascent of Change, the world's first 9b+ on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/61040319)
that first crux looks absolutely horrendous, great video. After the first scream my non-climber girlfriend asked if it was Ondra :lol:
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:jaw: :clap2: :bow:
Adam comes across as a very well balanced person.
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I know Ondra is probably in a better position to judge, but Change looks so much harder than Dura Dura. And cooler.
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"It is 9b+"
I think I dislocated both my arms just watching that first crux...
:strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench:
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That is a superb film. All excellent, but I noticed how great the sound was... all the climbing sounds - clinks, chinks, slap when a hand lands on the hold - sure I could hear his nails grating on a crimp.. fantastic, like being there..
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Keep the faith....
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What's Hunky Dory like? It looks like a one mover from a foot ledge with bomber kit right next to you. Is that accurate?
No it's a pumpy little E3 5c with a tricky bit at the top, + choice of finishes, you can go right and up instead. The climber makes it look easier than it is.
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Typical Jacob ::)
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I recall Hunky Dory being E3 6a and good value (when Chalkstorm got E1 5c). It's a lot steeper than it looks in that film too iirc.
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I can't picture you on Hunky Dory Jasper :-) Did you wear those Asolo boot type things?
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Wasn't this on the school meet when the PE teacher didn't let him lead Prow Cracks??
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VIDEO: BD athlete Adam Ondra making the first ascent of Change, the world's first 9b+ on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/61040319)
Wow wow!
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I can't picture you on Hunky Dory Jasper :-) Did you wear those Asolo boot type things?
No they hadn't been invented then as I was 14 and it was about 1988. Scarpa Rockstars probably. :-*
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VIDEO: BD athlete Adam Ondra making the first ascent of Change, the world's first 9b+ on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/61040319)
Ace
Not only does Ondra's belayer seem very patient, but she is obviously very capable and attentive
I'm surprised that there isn't a thread about such belayers
and why isn't he wearing any goggles while drilling above his head? you only get one set of eyes - look after them
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Good that Ondra video. Nice to see that despite it being at the cutting edge he's still doing it in a pair of rockshoes which first came on the market what 10 years+ ago now? Genius.
-
he's probably had to have them resoled a couple of times over that period
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Even better, strong AND thrifty.
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Good that Ondra video. Nice to see that despite it being at the cutting edge he's still doing it in a pair of rockshoes which first came on the market what 10 years+ ago now? Genius.
They are amazing shoes, that just happen to fit me incredibly well. It's like they were made for my feet. It feels like anything can be climbed in them (regarding foothold size).
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back to more serious breakthroughs in the world of chuffing
Five Ten | The Guide Tennie Video | with Tom Randall & Pete whittaker on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/60612674)
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Portugals first 9a (trailer)...
First 9a in Portugal by Leopoldo Faria TRAILER on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/61338171)
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Where do winter chuffing vids go?
http://www.guardian.co.uk/sport/video/2013/mar/11/snowdon-climber-falling-ice-video (http://www.guardian.co.uk/sport/video/2013/mar/11/snowdon-climber-falling-ice-video)
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I can't help but noticing that Tom seems to be wearing a non-standard tennie for London wall, note the orange clearly visible on the screengrab, perhaps undermining the advertorial nature of the piece, unless just a cosmetic difference to stop him selling them to fund his crack habit?[edit] it seems in fact just a new colour :oops:
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Where do winter chuffing vids go?
http://www.guardian.co.uk/sport/video/2013/mar/11/snowdon-climber-falling-ice-video (http://www.guardian.co.uk/sport/video/2013/mar/11/snowdon-climber-falling-ice-video)
Good demo of why leashes are still a good idea, and how not to ice axe arrest.
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Portugals first 9a (trailer)...
First 9a in Portugal by Leopoldo Faria TRAILER on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/61338171)
That aint Portugal, it is Pembroke and they have just bolted it. Looks nice.
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Not sure if it's been linked on here or not but the new BD catalogue has some cool vids of both routes and boulders in it: Honnold on leaning tower proj, Dave Mac on his 9a, wheel of life direct etc
http://catalog.blackdiamondequipment.com/climbing2013/en_us/ (http://catalog.blackdiamondequipment.com/climbing2013/en_us/)
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Portugals first 9a (trailer)...
First 9a in Portugal by Leopoldo Faria TRAILER on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/61338171)
That aint Portugal, it is Pembroke and they have just bolted it. Looks nice.
Went to this cliff last year, really impressive. We ended up not climbing as I chickened out half way across the rope traverse in. . . :'(
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Not bad that BD stuff, Honnold and Norway boring and not much climbing, Dave Mac's line looks great, would like to see a full video of that. Utah stuff cool as is Wheel Of jesus fuck that's long.
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Wheel looks SO good
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Wheel looks SO good
very good - it even has knee bars for you!
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notice the sharp looking double knee bar at the beginning done without pads.
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I love the rest towards the end (about 4min in) where he uses the bottom of his shoe as a hold while hanging on a toe hook. Never seen that before. Awesome looking rock and problem, looks exhausting.
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Captain Skyhook on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/61843723)
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What fucked up grading system is Macleod using where doing an 8c+ and then adding a harder cux on top of it = 8c+/9a. Slash grades are completely shit anyway but that doesn't even make any sense.
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One where the ego can demand undergrading as much as overgrading...
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I think it means "I think it's 9a but people in the UK like acting like c*nts when your stuff gets downgraded so I'll give it a slash grade. Not only will this cover me if it gets put down to 8c+ but it will piss some people off too". This (the first part anyway) is also roughly how I read Pearson's logic of giving his Turkey thing 8c+ instead of 9a.
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What fucked up grading system is Macleod using where doing an 8c+ and then adding a harder cux on top of it = 8c+/9a. Slash grades are completely shit anyway but that doesn't even make any sense.
I think this had just happened? http://www.jamesmchaffie.com/1/post/2012/09/team-no-hope-head-to-hoy.html (http://www.jamesmchaffie.com/1/post/2012/09/team-no-hope-head-to-hoy.html)
Does seem a pretty harsh grade though doesn't it? (the sport thing, no idea on long hope, Caff's views on grades are complete bollocks)
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The latest MCofS mag has a cover photo of Macleod on this route, and the caption describes it as 9a+. This was always the grade he seemed to suggest on his blog when he was working it.
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Forgotten Lines on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/62021717)
Climbing starts at 2:30.
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:wub:
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Nice looking route, most Hong cracks from the early 80s are amazing.
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As someone that has never really seen the big man climb this was just glorious.
The video quality may not be great (much better when it actually gets to the climbing) but the content is just incredible.
Body Machine (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DI5u95gMObc#)
So many routes I am inspired to go and climb now!
(where can I find some replica red and yellow trousers?)
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Magnus crushing to some trance, what more could you want?
The Santa Linya Collective - first teaser (http://player.vimeo.com/video/62158991)
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Magnus crushing to some trance, what more could you want?
I'm sure someone will be along in a minute to criticise it.
(Thanks for taking the time to post)
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Magnus don't need no knee pads... Where they comparing his abilities to Jacob S's?
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Magnus don't need no knee pads... Why're they comparing his abilities to Jacob S's?
let me correct that for you
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:goodidea:
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I can't see any previous posts of this vid, and I'd never seen it before (randomly came across it on the other channel yesterday). This embodies everything about climbing that I love. No kneepads required.
Don Whillans' Last Climb 1984 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O6CTK2hFvrw#)
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I can't see any previous posts of this vid, and I'd never seen it before (randomly came across it on the other channel yesterday).
Full circle (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,21548.msg394699.html#msg394699).
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http://vimeo.com/m/62668817 (http://vimeo.com/m/62668817)
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Looks good.
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:agree: animal bits look good :)
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US national comp.
http://new.livestream.com/louderthan11/SCS2013 (http://new.livestream.com/louderthan11/SCS2013)
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This is quite good...
Viva La Vie on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/63611753)
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Adam Ondra - A few forgotten 9a routes... on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/65128823)
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Brilliant!
Just came across this old footage of Pete Livesy on Liberator.
Barber and Livesey (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AAm10A3QFBo#ws)
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A stiff DWS from local legend, prolific new router, and in my opinion, one of the most undersung, hard working, climbing stars in Britain, Mr Martin Crocker.
Sensational solo first ascent of the climb Superstitious?, Ogmore sea cliffs, by Martin Crocker (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oSh0HzDiyjI#)
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Cool video but all I could think about while he was climbing was how often he dipped in his chalk bag. His stamina must be immense to be able to climb a route that steep while chalking up almost every move.
:bow:
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Cool video but all I could think about while he was climbing was how often he dipped in his chalk bag. His stamina must be immense to be able to climb a route that steep while chalking up almost every move.
:bow:
Classic old school route machine.
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Cool video but all I could think about while he was climbing was how often he dipped in his chalk bag. His stamina must be immense to be able to climb a route that steep while chalking up almost every move.
:bow:
Classic old school route machine.
Legend. Old school, but still knocking out the routes.
The odd hold coming off in his hand on that steepness as well. I like the kids froggy waterwings, just in case.
If you're the same Andy Popp, you did some new routes around these parts i believe. Did you do any with Martin?
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I wouldn't fancy a lob into that sea, looks like the bloody Humber.
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There is a picture of Martin Crocker on a route called Sci-fi in the Merionydd guide. It looks wild and it has alway inspired to go and try and climb it. Maybe this year!
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If you're the same Andy Popp, you did some new routes around these parts i believe. Did you do any with Martin?
It probably is me as I've climbed a lot in the Bristol area, though not much in the way of new routes down that way and I've never been to Ogmore. The only time I actually climbed with Martin was on the FA of a girdle of the Great Corner area at Brean, which proved much safer for Martin to lead than it was for me to follow. Martin is a total legend, but also an incredibly understated and nice bloke.
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If you're the same Andy Popp, you did some new routes around these parts i believe. Did you do any with Martin?
It probably is me as I've climbed a lot in the Bristol area, though not much in the way of new routes down that way and I've never been to Ogmore. The only time I actually climbed with Martin was on the FA of a girdle of the Great Corner area at Brean, which proved much safer for Martin to lead than it was for me to follow. Martin is a total legend, but also an incredibly understated and nice bloke.
I associate your name with nick dixon from gotta be the 80s around bristol area.
I am sure you're aware. Some might not be though. Martin currently doing great work sexing up Avon gorge. You can check project here if interested
http://m.facebook.com/Climbbristol?id=491753814169300&_rdr (http://m.facebook.com/Climbbristol?id=491753814169300&_rdr)
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Era Vella 2013 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WxKQth3VbHo#ws)
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Island One | Trailer [out May 22nd - www.island.io/films] on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/65511877)
Part One of the Island Trilogy. 4 years in the making, totally worth it!
Available for download from our very own Films button! [island.io/films] on May 20th 2013.
Featuring Dave Graham, Jon Cardwell, Daniel Woods, Isaac Caldiero Joe Kinder, Colette Mcinierney and Enzo Oddo. Shot on location by the crew in Ceuse and Nice in France and in Verbier and Zurich in Switzerland.
United States Premiere May 22nd at E-Town in Boulder, CO.
facebook.com/events/534398713288995/
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First climbing film in years I'm genuinely psyched for. This trailer's better IMO
The Island Trilogy - Trailer on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/62668817)
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First climbing film in years I'm genuinely psyched for. This trailer's better IMO
The Island Trilogy - Trailer on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/62668817)
Really liked that. Best off calling it a short and leaving it at that though, probably won't be as good
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Titan stuff looks well cool :)
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Ryan Pasquill on Jungle Speed.
http://dmmclimbing.com/news/2013/01/brits-shine-in-siurana/ (http://dmmclimbing.com/news/2013/01/brits-shine-in-siurana/)
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:2thumbsup:
Nice edit too
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Would have been a good edit if there had been half as much chopping around at half the speed. Actual footage looks like it would be good though.
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not shy of sit start link ups
Common day of Adam Ondra (Black Diamond - Digital rock climbing catalog 2012) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/41882150)
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Nice to see footage of Ryan on jungle speed but I thought the edit was crap.
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:agree:
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http://vimeo.com/45360164# (http://vimeo.com/45360164#)
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RE: The Island vol 1 - Got this the other day.
Overall: Not bad but not as good as the trailer made me hope for. Some good footage, but also lots of 'junk' footage - too much non-climbing filler footage IMO. Vol. 1 has Ceuse, some Swizz bouldering and Loup.
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RE: The Island vol 1 - Got this the other day.
Overall: Not bad but not as good as the trailer made me hope for. Some good footage, but also lots of 'junk' footage - too much non-climbing filler footage IMO. Vol. 1 has Ceuse, some Swizz bouldering and Loup.
Watching trailers ftw.
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RE: The Island vol 1 - Got this the other day.
Overall: Not bad but not as good as the trailer made me hope for. Some good footage, but also lots of 'junk' footage - too much non-climbing filler footage IMO. Vol. 1 has Ceuse, some Swizz bouldering and Loup.
That was always going to be the case....
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Dunno if this has already been posted, but worth a look to see the (harder than Cobra) crack, which has now been done...
BD athletes Daniel Jung and Nico and Olivier Favresse climbing first ascents in Norway on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/57373499)
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The 1:20 minutes of climbing is good. Will be great to hear about the actual route!
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In case you haven't seen, words here:
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=40902 (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=40902)
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Talo Martn interviews Johnny Dawes on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/67293102)
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Thought I'd post it here before modestVG puts it in the non-quality thread. Great work
Kaabarrows on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/68513338)
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Yeah, great video Guy. Barrows really made that route look hard, which doesn't happen very often in climbing videos these days! Good music too.
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Barrows looks a bit like Knight Rider in that:
(http://whatcanilearntoday.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/the-hoff.jpg)
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(http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/5499/8gca.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/819/8gca.jpg/)
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Blonde Hassleboff! Genius.
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http://climbingnarc.com/videos/roctrip-tarn-daily-report-4-dave-graham-onsight-attempt-and-first-ascent-by-chris-sharma/ (http://climbingnarc.com/videos/roctrip-tarn-daily-report-4-dave-graham-onsight-attempt-and-first-ascent-by-chris-sharma/)
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saw the locals trying this alot last summer, and getting very close.
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Long move init
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full on dyno aye. they were catching, holding and falling. good to see the tarn shot well, fantastic place.
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There's a few other videos all good filming... Bit of cool looking high lining as well
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The North Face: China Trad Festival (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZcwUpqT0zuA#ws)
Film is standard sell-Chinese-made-T-shirts stuff: rad dudes, cute dudettes and a bit of effnic color.
Looks like it might be an interesting place to visit though.
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Salathe Wall free on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/69361561)
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RocTrip Tarn - daily report #4 - Dave Graham and Chris Sharma (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-DDSpp8iUEU#ws)
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The Story of Mecca - Mid Life Crisis on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/69611819)
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Trying Tennessee, the Best 8b Sport Climb in the World? - Petzl Roc Trip 2013, Ep. 1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ESRfkWvoiM#ws)
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The North Face: China Trad Festival (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZcwUpqT0zuA#ws)
Film is standard sell-Chinese-made-T-shirts stuff: rad dudes, cute dudettes and a bit of effnic color.
Looks like it might be an interesting place to visit though.
Rock and climbing looks ace tho!
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Pump Up The Jam on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/70464718)
I love pigeons cave....
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Projects: Trad in the New on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/70308672)
Pumpy looking...
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Not really into chuffing vids but this one was decent :???:
Desert Flight: A Climbing Mom’s Vacation on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/71301230)
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It's a great place, shame when the water level drops in midsummer you have about a metre of dry scum above the water line to overcome before you get to the clean rock. Looks like having a big boat (well bigger than what we had) solves the problem (mostly). Some scary jumps, I touched the bottom once or twice.
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Liked both those.
On the Matt Wilder one, the top out shot gimmick at 14.15 is a good touch.
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On the Matt Wilder one, the top out shot gimmick at 14.15 is a good touch.
I thought that, wasn't expecting it.
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Awesome - particularly the "lift your foot with your hand off the mono crimp" move at 9.30.
Meltdown film on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/55772201)
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Wish we had stuff like this in the UK. Possibly the best bit of crack project footage I've seen?
http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/stranger-than-fiction-epictv-short-film-festival-2013/238834 (http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/stranger-than-fiction-epictv-short-film-festival-2013/238834)
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That's a great video but meltdown looks totally minging! Horrible finger stacks and mono crimps.
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No, just booking some extra flights ;)
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Petzl RocTrip Argentina 2012 - The official movie (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QllWNEGBKic#ws)
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http://www.climberism.com/the-good-and-the-bad-of-climbing-commercials/ (http://www.climberism.com/the-good-and-the-bad-of-climbing-commercials/)
Big collection of adverts featuring climbing. Some awful ones there...
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Jonathan Siegrist on Moonshine. Basically quality but kind of ruined by the stars and stripes chalk bag.
http://vimeo.com/71587755# (http://vimeo.com/71587755#)
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http://www.climberism.com/the-good-and-the-bad-of-climbing-commercials/ (http://www.climberism.com/the-good-and-the-bad-of-climbing-commercials/)
Big collection of adverts featuring climbing. Some awful ones there...
Haha, I stuck that in the non-quality section becuase I thought there was more shit than good
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Haha, I stuck that in the non-quality section becuase I thought there was more shit than good
:slap: Maybe that's where I came across it...
Something better though:
Psicobloc Masters Series 2013 Deep-water Soloing Competition at Utah Olympic Park (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jUSXktIBjWA#ws)
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Cool. Psicobloc is still a stupid name though.
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It's Spanish, predates DWS {which does sound a bit like a cheap sofa firm}.
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I know it's Spanish, but still think it's a daft name, sounds like part of a mental hospital.
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Regardless, it's a Spanish language term with an English language equivalent which should surely be used in an English speaking country?
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I'd always read it as 'piscobloc', thinking pisco meant something to do with fish/ the sea and thought it was quite cool.
Now I've heard people saying it on a video I'm both disappointed that it's not, worried I might be a bit dyslexic and relieved that I never used the term 'piscobloc' in conversation. :look:
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Paige Claassen - Boven, South Africa - Rolihlahla (32, 5.13d) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/72175158)
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Paige Claassen - Boven, South Africa - Rolihlahla (32, 5.13d) on Vimeo - weird line, but climbing looks cool, nice.
Psicobloc Masters Series 2013 Deep-water Soloing Competition at Utah Olympic Park - cool idea, would like to see a proper climbing video of it tho.
Jonathan Siegrist on Moonshine - nice looking rock.
Petzl RocTrip Argentina 2012 - The official movie - dull.
Meltdown film on Vimeo - awesome, nice film, climbing looks amazing.
Desert Flight: A Climbing Mom’s Vacation on Vimeo - bleurgh.
Projects: Trad in the New on Vimeo - cool stuff.
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Tom Randall 2nd Ascent Appointment with Death, E9 6c, Wimberry, UK on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/72363928)
There have been so many vids of scary high E's recently, but I still find them terrifying to watch. Get back on the cracks Tom! ;)
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Nice. I like the go-again slap off a pebble 3/4 of the way up!
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Paige Claassen - Boven, South Africa - Rolihlahla (32, 5.13d) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/72175158)
My mate Andy Pedley bolted this as the 'Overlord' project 3 years ago. He thought it was at least 8c but has done the second ascent after Sasha and thinks 8b/+ might be nearer the mark. Excellent crag, the 30m 'God No' wall is stunning. A complete contrast to Rocklands
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The Hardest Offwidth Crack in Vedauwoo - Forever War (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bUOl0M2cHbw#ws)
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My mate Andy Pedley bolted this as the 'Overlord' project 3 years ago. He thought it was at least 8c but has done the second ascent after Sasha and thinks 8b/+ might be nearer the mark. Excellent crag, the 30m 'God No' wall is stunning. A complete contrast to Rocklands
Hence the name! First climber who saw it said "God, No!". It's a great place.
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Slackers did you have to post up that offwidth video??! That's the biggest sore point I have with that US trip - those buggers out there wouldn't tell us where that route was as we knew it was a project and wanted to do it. Darn, I thought I'd got over that.
I'm over it..... I'm over it. I'm over it. :wall:
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Probably a good thing tom, who knows what those weird ol US offwidthers would get up to if youd cleaned up all their projects.
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Hah, nice one Tommy.
Good name, that route.
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Ondra working Move
ADAM ONDRA - WORKING MOVE 9B/+ on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/72992600)
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A CLIMBING LIFE OPUS #4 - Romain Desgranges - digital Time (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZyR-rxz1uA#)
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Outrageously awesome line and situation. Bollox editing.
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The route looks good. The scenery is fabulous. The music didn't offend. The branding was pretty unsubtle. The film editor, who is being coy but the Realisation: Moctar Walid credit suggests it might be M. Desgranges himself, should never have been let anywhere near some very decent footage. Awful.
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A CLIMBING LIFE OPUS #4 - Romain Desgranges - digital Time (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xZyR-rxz1uA#)
Shit, never actually seen digital crack before, looks well jackson. Is this the thing there was a big hoo haa about in the 90s or whenever it was bolted?
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Considering its addidas we're not the target demographic, which appears to be ADHD suffering mouth breathers.
Stunning location though, its really doing that type of scenery justice with helicam footage now more prevalent
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Shit, never actually seen digital crack before, looks well jackson. Is this the thing there was a big hoo haa about in the 90s or whenever it was bolted?
Yip.
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Mark Pugh-Williams climbs one of the hardest routes in New Zealand on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/44434804)
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Not very aesthetic but cool climbing. Would like to have seen more continuous footage.
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I'll bear that in mind for next time. ;)
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Not exactly sure where to put this....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gwvXtfRjonc#t=66 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gwvXtfRjonc#t=66)
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A less frantic view of Digital Crack. You can safely miss the first 3 minutes of Millet advert.
Alpinism and climbing at digital crack (8a), Mont-Blanc massif (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H4SBKrWeRc8#ws)
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Shit, doesn't look too generous in the crack department!
-
the wideboyz would be very dissapointed, not a flared pony wing in sight.
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Cyanide & Happiness - The Rope (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gwvXtfRjonc#)
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48 Hours in Mountain Rescue: The Edale Mountain Rescue Team (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cMIuTGR9ccI#)
Saw them in action earlier this year at Millstone when a guy came off the top move of Only Just (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=10730) and hit the deck from about 16m. Fortunately they were on a training exercise at Lawrencefield so were over very quickly. All very proficient and they do a great job for nothing.
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This is fucking monster.
Ryan smashing in "Loskot and Two Smoking barrels" 8a+, at Cova del Diablo, Mallorca on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/74209295)
I can't imagine that megaphone siren would have been distracting at all either.
-
Saw them in action earlier this year at Millstone when a guy came off the top move of Only Just (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=10730) and hit the deck from about 16m. Fortunately they were on a training exercise at Lawrencefield so were over very quickly. All very proficient and they do a great job for nothing.
A minor point but for those not aware the Peak is actually served by 7 individual Mountain Rescue teams (Buxton, Derby, Edale, Glossop, Kinder, Oldham, and Woodhead). Which team gets tasked will obviously depend on where the incident is and Edale often get the headlines as they cover arguably the most popular area of the peak and are one of the busier teams in terms of call outs. I think all climbers / hill walkers / mountain bikers etc. who use the peak are incredibly fortunate that there is a such a professional resource available 24/7 provided entirely by volunteers.
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Full Film: "Everyday" - Sarah Hueniken becomes the first American Woman to ice climb Musashi (M12) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ulWm_jRnfY#)
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John Long on soloing with John Bachar. Good Old-Skool pics as well.
8)
The Only Blasphemy on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/66605812)
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Fab
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Sarah Hueniken becomes the first American Woman to "ice climb" Musashi
If by ice climb they mean aid a big roof using axes to reach a bit of ice.
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Sarah Hueniken becomes the first American Woman to "ice climb" Musashi
If by ice climb they mean aid a big roof using axes to reach a bit of ice.
+1
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Sarah Hueniken becomes the first American Woman to "ice climb" Musashi (M12)
If by ice climb they mean aid a big roof using axes to reach a bit of ice.
Using the full title, which you edited the key bit out of (now restored in bold), its a bit more obvious what the video will contain since 'M' is for mixed (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grade_(climbing)#M_numeric_scale), but still a poor choice of wording by Outdoor Research.
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Wow thanks slackers, and there was me not understanding winter grades, or mixed grades, or DT grades or nuffin'.
Your last point is the one I was trying to make.
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Wow thanks slackers, and there was me not understanding winter grades, or mixed grades, or DT grades or nuffin'.
:icon_321:
Your last point is the one I was trying to make.
Go tell Outdoor Research then as I doubt they read this thread. ::)
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Tom's found himself a new lad =)
Hoy Boys on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/73869090)
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www.youtube.com/watch?v=5BPwuPXK6Ww (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5BPwuPXK6Ww#ws)
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Mayan Smith-Gobat on Salathe on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/35596063)
Have we had this?? Love the no hands rest!
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Have we had this??
Yes (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,4660.msg347202.html#msg347202) but it is rather good.
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A mate of mine is at the belay. The rapped on in them just as he was about to set off (aiding mind). They weren't impressed!
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Linking an earlier post by Slackline with this reminds me that once existed a plan, probably drunken, for a well-known north american sponsored climber to ab in and dry-tool the Salthe headwall pitches. I was asked via a third-party if I would agree to be belayer - presumably they wanted someone dumb and unknown. I was well up for it. Thankfully it didn't happen as we probably wouldn't have got out of the valley with our lives.
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Leg loops under his trousers?
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New Mammut trousers with integrated harness. Just like the shorts.
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Great little vid of peak sport from Jon Clark, Limes not dead!
WCJ - A Few Hidden Classics on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/76252560)
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Jenn Fleming in DevilsTower: National Parks Epic Challenge
Surely the epic challenge at the moment is actually getting into the NPs? I've always fancied going there since the Catherine Desteville videos. I'm sure the place would spank me.
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adidas Outdoor: Mayan Smith-Gobat - Punks in the Gym (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=00cQB4_pagY#ws)
nice to see UKC with their finger on the pulse.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68393 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68393)
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nice to see UKC with their finger on the pulse.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68393 (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=68393)
Am I missing something? Looks to me like they posted it because it's a nice video. Not dissimilar to this thread really.
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Yeah, maybe, didn't see it was in the friday night vid section, thought it was in news section.
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Really enjoyed the lime vid. Made me miss the dales.
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I thought the WCJ video was lovely. It captured the atmosphere of the place and had a refreshingly subtle sound-track and lack of post-production froth. I liked the angles from over the other side of the river, putting the climbers in the landscape, quite hard to manage in the valley. It even made me want to climb there! Is Brachiation Dance dry (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,7226.150.html) at the moment?
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Surprised this hasn't made an appearance yet.
https://vimeo.com/76675846
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Unknown Stones, E9 on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/76675846)
Let's Get Killed E6? Gulp.
Good footage, good interview, good 80s fro-quiff, Nathan you should gel it forwards into a unicorn spike I reckon.
Bit weird about not enjoying the climbing while you're in the bubble....is that normal for these harder, serious ascents??
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That was really good. Enjoyed that. Nice one lads.
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Let's Get Killed E6? Gulp.
sorry dropped a bollock there and went off ukc, have since been told E7 by 2nd and 3rd ascentionists(?) and directed to Mr De Gay's comments on rockfax -
Definately E7 : Easy for 6b, but you have to be very careful about how hard you pull on those pebbles and you're a long way up (crux is reaching for the top) and a long way from the road. All good fun though.
Tom dG - 29/May/03
http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=8999 (http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=8999)
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from the same boreal talk is this one from David H on Andi Turner, ride it cowboy!
Clippety Clop, Ramshaw on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/76729140)
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Bit weird about not enjoying the climbing while you're in the bubble....is that normal for these harder, serious ascents??
I don't think its a case of actively not enjoying it so much as enjoying it/not enjoying it not being in any way part of the equation, at the time.
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Yup, I got that, that's what I meant, I should have been clearer in my post.
I understand not having any enjoying/notenjoying in terms of awareness of the danger and the situation, because that's what you're in the bubble to avoid, but what about enjoying/notenjoying the moves, the feel of the rock, the kinaesthetics, the conditions, etc??
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Chris Sharma Down Under (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WOvm3nrGhvQ#)
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Hold Fast-Hold True (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_WzYni4QjOI#)
check him casually brushing the twigs off afterwards!
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Hold Fast-Hold True (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_WzYni4QjOI#)
Quality video production?? Maybe not. Taking a 30ft fall then calmly getting up and walking away without a murmur? Quality!
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Balls like coconuts. That's at least one life cashed in.
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:o + :blink: + :alien:
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Chris Sharma Down Under (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WOvm3nrGhvQ#)
Groove Train looks ace.
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its like seeing double this thread
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To be fair yours and Stewarts posts are timed 39 seconds apart so you were probably posting at the same time.
Fiend has no excuse for not checking a few posts down though :tease:
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Even better, Fiend got that video link from JackAus's post, watched it, forgot where he'd seen it posted, and reposted it.
To make up for it, has anyone seen this recently:
Hold Fast-Hold True (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_WzYni4QjOI#)
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its like seeing double this thread
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Even better, Fiend got that video link from JackAus's post, watched it, forgot where he'd seen it posted, and reposted it.
:lol:
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triple vision i've posted it as well.!!!
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:o+ :blink:+ :alien:
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Pete Whittaker 1st ascent Baron Greenback, E9/10 7a, Wimberry, UK. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e2es_JX_Hcw#)
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amazing line.
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Bloody great! Taking up a home-made clipstick on the lead, good stuff :D Didn't know the line continued on the left side of the arete.
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Nice, think I will have a go after the Bolt Fund have been and sorted it out ;)
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Some high-quality huffing, puffing, screaming, grunting and under-the-breath swearing there. A man after my own heart.
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Live your Dreams on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/77720672)
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Matthias Knig: Lucifer on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/78004626)
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All-Time Climbing in Gryon, Switzerland | Europe's Best Crags, Ep. 1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yBqOROh7ZYs#)
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VAUDE - Sansara - Climbing Movie (FullHD) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xbjC4c6HTqc#ws)
Apologies if this has been posted before
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The route Sansara in the video above is a seven pitch 10+ (8b+), put up on lead by Alex Huber. The route has bolted belays and 7 lead bolts in 7 pitches, the rest is protected by gear (or not at all).
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Good stuff, looked cool. Wonder if the crux roof could be done on gear??
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Belayed a mate on the FA of this 7b+ a few weeks ago.
Obviously filmed on a different day as I'm not the chick belaying him in the vid...
Boab Business on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/79196083)
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Wind & Rattlesnakes on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/78859472)
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"La Leze-ciones de Dani" on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/79244351)
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John Cunningham Climbing Ben Nevis 1976 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mXzVNFrLzk0#)
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Gnarly no-gloves winter biking. I once rode a motorbike five miles in February with no glove on one hand, having dislocated a finger at the gym, and that one time was more than enough for me.
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We don't see as much footage of alpinism as we do of rock climbing, for obvious reasons, but I found this film of some guys on Andy Parkin and Mark Twight's Beyond Good and Evil appropriately cold- and gloomy-looking.
"Beyond Good and Evil" on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/78417409)
From Dane at Cold Thistle (http://coldthistle.blogspot.de/2013/11/good-and-evilagain.html). Bonus interviews there with "Marc", too, for those whose French is better than mine.
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I like the music too. Anybody recognise it?
In the last few weeks I've bought a pair of big boots, an ice axe and a sixty euro belay jacket from Decathlon. Cutting edge alpinism A nice bit of winter hillwalking here I come.
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I like the music too. Anybody recognise it?
Soundhound says its "Soul Outside" by Antonio Pinto.
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Bet they were a bit peed off about the fixed rope all the way up it
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The Jackal on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/79442830)
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nice video.
when the yanks grade something 5.14, is that the same as 5.14a? The letter is just dropped for brevity?
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when the yanks grade something 5.14, is that the same as 5.14a? The letter is just dropped for brevity?
Might be using a 14-, 14, 14+ sort of system which would suggest it's somewhere in the middle. Would make sense for an FA, where it's hard to be precise about the grade.
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When people are spraying I tend to interpret "5.X" as "5.(X-1)d/5.Xa"
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Not enough gangsta and not enough close-ups.
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I thought when yanks graded things 5.14 they were just being really vague and non-committal, like an extreme version of the slash grade. "I reckon it's probably between 5.14a and 5.14d. I don't really know, I'm a boulderer, this is my first route."
Also:
Daila Ojeda & Olivia Hsu: Girls Trip Brazil on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/80028636)
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Tom Randall makes the 1st ascent of 'My Kai' E86c, Shining Cliff, Peak District, UK. on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/79778194)
Did we have this before?? Good angle, good foot precision, good music.
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intense, nice bit of trumpet at 1:15
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Did we have this before??
It will have been sucked into the BlogPile (not that its a problem).
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K6 West First Ascent on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/80299271)
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Anyone downloaded the new Reel Rock download? The Dura Dura ascents are on it, not bothered about the rest of it. Any good?
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also, last great climb - any good? Heard mixed reviews from "brilliant" to "turned off before I got to the end"
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I liked reel rock. The main feature on Yuji and Daniel Woods is quite sweet, and the first three minutes of the hazel feature, when everyone is decking off routes right left and centre, is brill. Plus the dura dura footage is gobsmacking, as is the punch up on Everest, in a totally different way.
Worth buying.
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I liked reel rock. The main feature on Yuji and Daniel Woods is quite sweet, and the first three minutes of the hazel feature, when everyone is decking off routes right left and centre, is brill. Plus the dura dura footage is gobsmacking, as is the punch up on Everest, in a totally different way.
Worth buying.
Cheers sounds worth investing. The hardest route in the world is enough alone to warrant 14
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Did Ondra change his mind about which one is the hardest route in the world after sending Dura Dura? He says in the Change video that he doesn't think it's easier than Dura Dura, but I've read in a couple of places recently that he thinks Dura Dura is the hardest route in the world. Although I don't think any of them were directly quoting him so it's possibly just journalistic hyperbole.
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I thought Dura Dura took him longer?
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I've no idea in terms of days spent on it, but it might well have done. That doesn't necessarily mean it's harder though, but it's the kind of assumption hyperbolic journalists are fond of making.
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I thought the Yuji/Woods bit was good but not as good as last year's Dura Dura bit.
The Hazel bit was ok but not as good as last year's Wideboyz bit. Was expecting more footage of Chicama (you don't really see anything).
The Everest bit was worth a single watch but I wouldn't bother ever watching it again and wasn't as good as last year's alpine bit.
The Yosemite bit is shit.
So personally I wouldn't bother. But I've not seen the Dura dura send footage if that's on as an extra, so it might make up for it.
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It is
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Did Ondra change his mind about which one is the hardest route in the world after sending Dura Dura? He says in the Change video that he doesn't think it's easier than Dura Dura, but I've read in a couple of places recently that he thinks Dura Dura is the hardest route in the world. Although I don't think any of them were directly quoting him so it's possibly just journalistic hyperbole.
Doesn't style have something to do with it? I know i climb a lot harder at my style than my anti style.
I remember one of them was his style(Change?) and the other was his anti-style(Dura Dura i think.)
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Also possible. 5:22 in this BD athlete Adam Ondra making the first ascent of Change, the world's first 9b+ on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/68083454) versus this http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/perfect-play-what-it-took-to-climb-la-dura-dura-5-15c-the-worlds-hardest-route?page=4 (http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/perfect-play-what-it-took-to-climb-la-dura-dura-5-15c-the-worlds-hardest-route?page=4). I suppose he might well have just changed his mind, I just didn't remember reading about it in the Ondrawad thread.
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Ethiopia (30), Mt. Arapiles on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/75293650)
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Good to see the 'Piles on film. It is such great rock for climbing on.
Ep!c TV has several segments of Slackjaw's HardXS (http://www.epictv.com/pages/podcast-serie-host/hardxs-from-slackjaw-film) including some unknown called Stu Littlefair on Make It Funky.
They are all good but my favourite is Dave Thomas and another poor sap on Breakaway. Once-upon-a-time Mr Trad. and I did Savage God at Blackchurch. We were observed by a local who, since we appeared to be a steady team, recommended we try Breakaway. We did have a look at it, from a safe distance, later that trip. Fuck me. This is full confirmation, as I suspected at the time, said local was a sandbagging bastard of the first order!
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God that's embarrassing. Who cuts my hair.
A trivia note - I narrowly avoided being the stooge in the Choss section as Rich was phoning people from the car on the drive down in a bid to find 'willing' partners for Dave. God knows how he finally talked someone into it, I'm so glad it wasn't me...
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It is brilliant, Martin is a perfect straight man, someone should do a collection of his facial expressions!
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Was this what you meant to post?
Bra be gone (http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/fastest-bra-removal-cutaway-system-%7C-base-girl-ep-4/252315)
That section with DT on Choss, re-watching it I'm struck again by how insightful Dave is in expressing what it's like to be scared climbing. Brilliant stuff.
And Martin: It should be easy, you're on a top rope. How wrong can you be....... I've got a headache now
:lol:
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Not watched it but Peter Croft and Alex Honnold were interviewed yesterday live (http://www.ustream.tv/SpeakerSeriesLive) with questions coming from 'net denizens.
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Jacob Cook climbing The New Statesman, E8 7A on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/80585727)
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Nice video.
I remember last time Jacob was posting stuff I said "Next time you record onsights / flashes, could you zoom in a bit more so we can see the sequence, about 1/2 the screen space on your ascent and 1/3 on Jakes (I like the change in angle for this) was wasted on ground / sky. ", and for some incomprehensible reason got a load of whining and bleating in return from people who somehow thought that it wasn't suitable to offer constructive criticism on a publicly posted video???? Quite bizarre but I like the footage in this, plenty of close-ups as well as distance shots showing the character of the route well. Nice one (hopefully I'm allowed to post constructive praise on a publicly posted video.)
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for some incomprehensible reason got a load of whining and bleating in return from people who somehow thought that it wasn't suitable to offer constructive criticism on a publicly posted video????
If thats aimed at me (which I suspect it is) then the point I was making was that you should post constructive criticism on the place the video is hosted for the greatest chance of it being received by the creator of the video and taken on board (if they care to) because not all videos posted on UKB are from people who read UKB.
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Ben on Parthian (http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/ben-bransby-on-parthian-shot?current-channel=climbing) 8)
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that's a great video, looked terrifying on the slab with those foot swaps
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Brilliant and terrifying.
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Great documentary. Foot swap of doom :sick:
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Jacob Cook climbing The New Statesman, E8 7A on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/80585727)
8)
I'd be interested to know if it's intentional or not that he paraphrases Bentley's description of the route at the beginning!
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I'd be interested to know if it's intentional or not that he paraphrases Bentley's description of the route at the beginning!
Ha, yeah I wondered if anyone would notice that, it wasn't intentional...
What you get from watching Hard Grit too many times! :lol:
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The World's Worst Belayer [EN] Bad belaying techniques on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/80489871)
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I really liked Asgard Jamming and Vertical Sailing and can't wait to get their Jungle Jam video (http://www.xpedition.be/?page_id=451) at xmas and see the HUGE fall Sean took.
The next instalment from them is colder and in China, usual shenanigans & high spirits look like they're being maintained....
Trailer - China Jam on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/79839861)
They're crowd-sourcing the production of this one (http://www.indiegogo.com/projects/china-jam-big-wall-adventure-film) (presumably to help fund the next trip).
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see the HUGE fall Sean took.
(http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef0168e9a6c78d970c-800wi)
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Forgotten Climbing Paradise - Finale, Italy | Europe's Best Crags, Ep. 4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2qla1MLpKfs#ws)
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Quite enjoying the Louder than 11 Talkshows. Number 3 with Dave Graham was quite interesting. This one has a couple of topics to make you think. Nothing mind blowing.
Louder Than Eleven Live: Talkshow #5 • Jason Kehl & Rob D'Anastasio (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L-ZzcQ3x4Ts#ws)
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http://vimeo.com/80941121
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The 9a ROAD - O FILME (http://vimeo.com/80941121)
Vimeo embedding currently screwed. (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,23369.0.html)
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http://www.goldwin.co.jp/tnf/special/coloradotour/ (http://www.goldwin.co.jp/tnf/special/coloradotour/)
photo essay with a nice embedded video of yuji and toru nakajima(japanese wad) visiting daniel woods in colorado this year
all in japanese, but nice pics, nice video, nice vibe
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Not sure this has been posted before; full version of Werner Hertzog's Scream in Stone.
Werner Herzog - Grido Di Pietra - film completo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gdc6ceB7T_M#)
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53min mark for Stefan Glowacz soloing Kachoong
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James Pearson climbs 'Is Not Always Pasqua' - Mauro Calibani's E9 at Interprete, Italy, ground up! on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/82491937)
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Cool looking route and rock.
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http://www.goldwin.co.jp/tnf/special/coloradotour/ (http://www.goldwin.co.jp/tnf/special/coloradotour/)
Skipped through most of it but very cool send of the Ice Knife by Toru - syke!
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Pearson is really starting to sound like someone who has English as their second language!
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http://www.goldwin.co.jp/tnf/special/coloradotour/ (http://www.goldwin.co.jp/tnf/special/coloradotour/)
Skipped through most of it but very cool send of the Ice Knife by Toru - syke!
I must be really dumb but I couldn't for the life of me find the embedded video?
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Pearson's kids?
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I must be really dumb but I couldn't for the life of me find the embedded video?
Its the last of the slide show, keep on clicking on the right pointing arrow until it goes away and there should be a NF showing on some rock, its a video.
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D'oh!
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What the fucks happened to his voice?
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:lol: It's cringeworthy isn't it. Interesting though how some people can spend decades in foreign countries yet never lose their accents, whilst others go native in accent very quickly. Must be something to do with re-wiring the part of the brain used for language acquisition. I'm thinking here to some Yorkshire types I met in Canada who'd been out there for twenty years yet hardly sounded different.
Also interesting how I find it odd to hear someone's accent change, like they've dropped part of their personality, but really it's probably a pretty useful thing to be able to do.
Classic cringeworthyness
Shteeve Mclaren (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ZnoP4sUV90#ws)
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I'm sure Darse started doing it after about 2 weeks
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I'm thinking here to some Yorkshire types I met in Canada who'd been out there for twenty years yet hardly sounded different.
I thought the same when I met t' Yorkshire Darkhorse out there.
Some are like Gulio Geordio though.
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The 9a ROAD - O FILME (http://vimeo.com/80941121)
Nice film! I always like to see that amount of syke, and how he stresses the importance of a positive climbing community (my pipedream!). Nice footage of the send, like the cameraman's quiet encouragement and the finger slip....
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:lol: It's cringeworthy isn't it. Interesting though how some people can spend decades in foreign countries yet never lose their accents, whilst others go native in accent very quickly. Must be something to do with re-wiring the part of the brain used for language acquisition. I'm thinking here to some Yorkshire types I met in Canada who'd been out there for twenty years yet hardly sounded different.
Also interesting how I find it odd to hear someone's accent change, like they've dropped part of their personality, but really it's probably a pretty useful thing to be able to do.
I've got to say that if you're from The North or Midlands and spend a significant amount of time talking/ working with Europeans or even Americans, then you just simply have to change the way you speak or they just don't understand you at all. As weird as it might sound it's the only way really, I find myself having to talk like this in these circumstances all the time, as the natural accent from those UK areas means that you miss out quite alot of most words, so you have to start and finish your words instead of just shortening everything.
Considering his wife is French it's hardly that surprising it it?
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Still cringe though :lol:
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Can't imagine Churchill giving in to such weakness of spirit - he'd just have spoken at much higher volume and more slowly :P
But no, it's not really surprising, however yes it is funny as fuck and yes I (like most) am easily amused, this makes me lol:
The worst ever case of Foreign Accent Syndrome explained (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fDPNif_kJys#)
And it's not obligatory - seems the Yorkshiremen I met in CA were too stubborn to let their vocal chords submit to their environment!
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http://youtu.be/dovfYaQoPoY (http://youtu.be/dovfYaQoPoY)
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PMSL
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What the fucks happened to his voice?
terrible accent,would be better filmed in harold lloyd style with the odd subtitle
i really cannot watch any of his vids anymore.just tries too hard to be a media personality
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/via PaulB
Lucky Monkey on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/82643102)
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OT but on the watery theme....
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10152000927008780 (https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v=10152000927008780)
Probably not a good day to be belaying at the top of Sennen...
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Impressive technical, open book pitch climbed by Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll...
Charge - Climb Up the Patagonian Cathedral | The Whistler, the Wizard & the Raccoon, Ep. 3 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Wlft5agP-k#)
There are other videos in the series.
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Impressive cave...
Dancing Hip Hop on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/80381223)
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Infinite Jest, hard multi-pitch climbing on the Wendenstock, mentioned previously on the long, hard and free thread (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=18533.50). Quite a lot of talking but some great footage of this amazing-looking place.
Episode 1 (http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/freeing-big-routes-in-wendenstcke-stone-garden-|-infinite-jest-ep-2/250480)
Episode 2 (http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/freeing-big-routes-in-wendenstcke-stone-garden-|-infinite-jest-ep-2/250480)
Massive Whipper, Massive Commitment | Infinite Jest, Ep. 3 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LQ47E7Uk47M#ws)
Episode 4 (http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/pushing-boundaries-personal-limits--big-wall-sketchy-moments-|-infinite-jest-ep-4/268320)
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Just watched the Pearson / Schteeve MacLaren / Joey LeBarton vid. I totally get how that can happen but it's still bloody funny.
(http://cwbblogs.com/cameroon12/files/2012/11/allo-allo-arthur-bostrom-as-officer-crabtree-2.jpg)
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Stolby Style: Siberian Free Soloing (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lwCyM84HCcA#)
Possibly been posted on here before. What an eye opener...
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cross post from the other channel.
doesn't look like a legit source, but they linked it...
LA DURA COMPLETE (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WydHviTrYrI#ws)
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Already in ondrawad thread.
UKC most use /r/climbing as a news source ;)
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I don't think Big Up will be too happy with whoever put that on YouTube . They're trying to sell DVDs!
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Hahah, looks like it's been put down already. The last bit with James P though, what a wicked line!
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I was a bit pissed off when I saw it had gone online as I bought Reel Rock purely to see Dura Dura.
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UKC have deleted the news item and thread. A bit stupid to post it in the first place really
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I was a bit pissed off when I saw it had gone online as I bought Reel Rock purely to see Dura Dura.
I bought Adam Hocking's Meltdown to see McHaffie climb Meltdown.....a few months later he then stuck it up on Vimeo for all and sundry to watch/download for free.
I've a vague recollection that soon after first registering here I might have bunged you a few quid (no doubt to cover costs/materials/posting rather than profit) for West Coast Gimps and Stoned Love too.
:shrug:
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I put WCG online 8 years after first selling it, I think that's ok. :ang:
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No it's not. Anything you do is not OK, as a rule.
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If it makes you feel any better Doylo it wasn't an official release, so no grievance can be had with Big Up.
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Local 8c+ gets it's 2nd ascent after 10 years:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=jPTPgZjRe4o (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jPTPgZjRe4o#ws)
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David Lama scales one of the toughest Alpine climbing routes (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iDlLCKnOB2M#ws)
nice chuffineering from Lama and Arnold on the Moose's Tooth, really impressive the stuff he has got done in the last few years, apparently he topped Cerro Torre this year couple of days after arriving whilst everyone else was complaining about conditions. Always looks a bit grumpy though.
ps it's got subtitles
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Think the apparently in ElMo's post was from me. Turns out I'd misread it - it was Cerro Solo he did this year, not Cerro Torre. Somewhat different...
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That's cool. Pretty bonkers climbing that kind of mixed stuff without lanyards tho?!
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Yeah I thought that. Looked hard!
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David Lama scales one of the toughest Alpine climbing routes (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iDlLCKnOB2M#ws)
nice chuffineering from Lama and Arnold on the Moose's Tooth, really impressive the stuff he has got done in the last few years, apparently he topped Cerro Torre this year couple of days after arriving whilst everyone else was complaining about conditions. Always looks a bit grumpy though.
He's got the Asian eyebrows. A lot of east asian guys have dark, slanting eyebrows that makes us look a bit annoyed all the time. We're not. we're secretly laughing at you on the inside. :P
(nice vid, btw.)
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Always looks a bit grumpy though.
He's got the Asian eyebrows.
His dad is Nepalese.
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Some Smith Rock action
Summer at Smith Rocks on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/50391875)
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Nice one Ted enjoyed that. Great use of music, for once.
Does he dye his hair ?
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first tune by Black Angels is great, once accidently punched my date for the night in the head at one of their gigs
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first tune by Black Angels is great, once accidently punched my date for the night in the head at one of their gigs
And...? You can't leave that one hanging Guy :)
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first tune by Black Angels is great, once accidently punched my date for the night in the head at one of their gigs
And...? You can't leave that one hanging Guy :)
oh y'know, she said she was alright and we never spoke again
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I think Andrew just looks young for his age. First 8b at 49, not bad!
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lol, how would a toupee work with climbing? I guess it could be extra motivation to not fall ;D
I thought it was interesting how he mentioned long sessions(aerocap) on his slightly overhanging treadwall helped his elbows. Seems to line up with what macleod and the power company guy have been saying.
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Quality is questionable but its a classic...
Old Man of Hoy (BBC outside broadcast) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aYfxQBE9QkI#)
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That Smith Rocks film is quality. Makes me want to both climb at Smith and make climbing videos.
Was distracted by the (http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/spongeboy/animations/short_hair_smiley.gif) issue though - if you were vain enough to dye it/ wear a wig you'd shave your greying stubble too? :-\
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Marmot's Lead Now Tour - Stop 6 - India on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/82974291)
Some worthy political/travelogue filler first, climbing starts at 3:15. Lovely bit of break-2-break climbing.
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Rock Queen (featuring Catherine Destivelle) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/60887087)
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Local 8b+:
Daniel Fisher Beef Miester-32 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ze0T5Rg8ONk#ws)
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Mandela Day on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/86735631)
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Cool bit of rock, entertaining conditions, very good image quality......and an exceptionally dull video :whatever:
If Dave G wants flakey schist with wet top-outs, he should come over here and start exploring the Central Highlands ;)
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great video and tune, it seems this is the signature mammut trade route
In The Zone on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/86919594)
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Nicely shot video but I still don't like the big E-omg!!! grade highlighting for fully headpointed ascents with pre-placed gear and a stack of pads :unsure:
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Well of course you don't.
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Never realised that The Zone essentially starts up Peapod then steps back right into it at the top. It should be renamed Peapod Indirect.
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Ola Taistra | Mind Control 8c (c+) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/86658451)
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Free to stream for a few days.
http://hotaches.com/free-climbing-film/ (http://hotaches.com/free-climbing-film/)
The pinnacle
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Local 8a+
www.youtube.com/watch?v=XmYyM3WHHTs (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XmYyM3WHHTs#ws)
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Marmot Hand Picked Steve McClure's Malham Cove (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jzY-YT3a3YU#ws)
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Trailer for what looks like it could be an excellent documentary. imbd (http://www.imdb.com/title/tt2964324/) over-caffeinated sugary drink company (http://www.cerrotorre-movie.com/en)
The Alpinist - Cerro Torre: A Snowballs Chance in Hell - Ep.1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zy9C41ARd5o#ws)
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Sasha D on the first ascent of Rolihlahla. Not enough climbing but 3 strings so looks nice.
Rolihlahla on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/88212759)
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over-caffeinated sugary drink company necklace. That's Mother's Day sorted.
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Nice vid. Arjan's a font 8c beast so I can't imagine how hard that is. Definitely quality chuffing though
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Lucky, very lucky (http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/ice-pillar-snaps-with-climber-on-it-heres-how-he-survived-|-sub-zero-ep-3/274337?header_b=1&b=1) :o
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Island One is on Youtube. Probably not for long. Mainly chuffing but there is bouldering too.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vd5uKW22XLw (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vd5uKW22XLw)
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Ain't it a bastard when you pay for a video and then it ends up on YouTube.... Good though
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My thought exactly.
Expected it to embed automatically:
Island One (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vd5uKW22XLw#ws)
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The price you pay for not waiting. At least you'll know not to purchase volume 2 and just wait.
I didn't think it was that great a film. Some good footage but lacked a coherent story really (e.g. didn't really develop an insight into Cardwell's battle to red-point at Ceuse).
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A I missing something? I'd be gutted if I paid for that video. I'm not saying it's terrible, but compared to a lot of things on the market now it's pretty old school. The intro goes on about making a different kind of film that tells the stories of all the people that they meet, but it's just a video about them...and there trip...which is a lot like...most videos. This is the climbing version of 'straight to
VHS DVD'
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I only bought it quite recently, annoyingly, having heard very mixed reviews. I think it's good but not great, my verdict was that Bearcam did a good job of making a decent film out of a lot of sub-par footage. I don't really care about story in climbing films, most of my favourites have little or none. The bouldering is probably the highlight, easier to film well I suppose.
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A I missing something? I'd be gutted if I paid for that video. I'm not saying it's terrible, but compared to a lot of things on the market now it's pretty old school. The intro goes on about making a different kind of film that tells the stories of all the people that they meet, but it's just a video about them...and there trip...which is a lot like...most videos. This is the climbing version of 'straight to VHS DVD'
Thing is, its their media, if they want to charge for it initially then give it away thats entirely up to them. You can't really complain, but you might "bear" it in mind when considering future purchases from the Island.
Besides which they chuck out enough good footage completely free* that, having paid for this when it came out and helping them make some cash from selling it for a bit if they then decide to make freely available, I've got not problem with. Surely its a good thing to have quality footage for free? Unfortunately even though producers of such videos appear to live the life of Riley they do still need to pay for their travel and living expenses. I guess once they've recouped those they don't feel the need to continue milking the cash cow and move onto the next thing, whilst continuing to produce stuff for free.
* A very recent example being Dave Graham on his 8c in Switzerland, and his stuff from Oz, both recently linked in Quality Bouldering thread which, whilst short, cost you the viewer nowt.
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There doesn't seem to be anything to suggest that Island uploaded this to youtube, rather than some other individual uploading it?
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There doesn't seem to be anything to suggest that Island uploaded this to youtube, rather than some other individual uploading it?
Good point, just checked (hadn't bothered before having already bought and watched the flim). The top rated comment (from Dave Graham) clears that up, so no one needs to feel aggrieved. Others were whinging when the "La Dura Dura" film appeared on YouTube, it too wasn't official and was taken down pretty sharpish, so worth checking before bemoaning having forked out for videos that subsequently appear online.
Doesn't change what I wrote above though, if they decide they've made enough cash off of it and to then give it away so be it.
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Teaser video for Chris Sharma and Stefan Glowacz's "secret" climb out of the Majlis al Jinn cave in Oman. Deeply irritating that over-caffeinated sugary drink company have a hand in this, as a previous stunt sponsored by them there - a base jump - is believed to have provoked the Oman authorities into ending public access to the cave.
>:(
Into the light – Episode 1 on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/88761087)
What a bunch of snake oil charlatans. Even though their sponsorship has helped the Pou brothers and Lama among others to climb some amazing stuff, the inevitable 'Epic TV edit' and general machismo that goes along with these fine achievements really grates on me.
Side note: can any climb really be described as 'important'?
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Side note: can any climb really be described as 'important'?
In comparison to "important medical discovery" or "important scientific breakthrough" probably not, but I guess taken in context and by the defnition of the word, yes?
Still a bunch of shysters though. It amazes me that despite all the bad press enough over-caffeinated sugary drink company still gets drunk to support all their sponsorships.
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It amazes me that despite all the bad press enough over-caffeinated sugary drink company still gets drunk to support all their sponsorships.
I don't think their target audience/actual consumers are those who give a shit, or are even aware of, some of the issues surrounding the activities they sponsor.
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Sorry, I meant the bad press around how bad the stuff is for you etc. But I guess your point still applies to that too! They most either sell crazy amounts of it or have a massive profit margin. Probably both.
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A I missing something? I'd be gutted if I paid for that video. I'm not saying it's terrible, but compared to a lot of things on the market now it's pretty old school. The intro goes on about making a different kind of film that tells the stories of all the people that they meet, but it's just a video about them...and there trip...which is a lot like...most videos. This is the climbing version of 'straight to VHS DVD'
Thing is, its their media, if they want to charge for it initially then give it away thats entirely up to them. You can't really complain, but you might "bear" it in mind when considering future purchases from the Island.
Besides which they chuck out enough good footage completely free* that, having paid for this when it came out and helping them make some cash from selling it for a bit if they then decide to make freely available, I've got not problem with. Surely its a good thing to have quality footage for free? Unfortunately even though producers of such videos appear to live the life of Riley they do still need to pay for their travel and living expenses. I guess once they've recouped those they don't feel the need to continue milking the cash cow and move onto the next thing, whilst continuing to produce stuff for free.
* A very recent example being Dave Graham on his 8c in Switzerland, and his stuff from Oz, both recently linked in Quality Bouldering thread which, whilst short, cost you the viewer nowt.
I'm not complaining. I'm just saying that I thought it'd be different and good. I didn't think it was either.
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Sorry andyd I misinterpreted your post.
I guess thats what comes when posting after having been to the pub :beer2:
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Sorry, I meant the bad press around how bad the stuff is for you etc. But I guess your point still applies to that too! They most either sell crazy amounts of it or have a massive profit margin. Probably both.
5.2 billion cans sold in 2012 (13% up on 2011) and yes, decent profit too. It probably costs about 20p a can to produce after all.
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Sorry, I meant the bad press around how bad the stuff is for you etc. But I guess your point still applies to that too! They most either sell crazy amounts of it or have a massive profit margin. Probably both.
5.2 billion cans sold in 2012 (13% up on 2011) and yes, decent profit too. It probably costs about 20p a can to produce after all.
Beggars belief. Wonder if I can sell my soul and get a job in their marketing department.
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I like over-caffeinated sugary drink company (mostly the taste) and drink it happily on occasion.
I haven't seen a single thing I like about over-caffeinated sugary drink company EXTREEEEMising adventure activities / sports.
I bought the Island One and I am fairly happy it is now on Youtube as it isn't really up to the standard of the usual full length climbing film purchases, nor what I would have hoped from DG.
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Andy Nisbet - 2014 Scottish award for excellence mountain culture on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/87197149)
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Patagonia: Attempt To Succeed on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/87395294)
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Official video now up on YouTube....
La Dura Complete: The Hardest Rock Climb In The World (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1P97VVt6_k#ws)
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Is this just the special features from the last Reel Rock, or a new thing?
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Is this just the special features from the last Reel Rock, or a new thing?
No idea, I don't have the last Reel Rock. I used "Official" because of who posted it to YouTube (click through to find out).
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Official video now up on YouTube....
La Dura Complete: The Hardest Rock Climb In The World (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1P97VVt6_k#ws)
I like the strange camp fire scene at 15:30, one guy playing a wooden flute with a feather sticking out the end while the dude next to him psyches up listening to his Ipod..........
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Chained quickdraws at 13:47 don't get clipped. Then at 14:07 we seem to be looking at the same bolt, but with only one quickdraw on it, which has become clipped. Is this because some pre- or post- FA footage has been inserted?
Looks like a different quickdraw/bolt to me, and there are some missing moves, so I assume its one of the higher bolts and a section of climbing has been edited out.
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Chained quickdraws at 13:47 don't get clipped. Then at 14:07 we seem to be looking at the same bolt, but with only one quickdraw on it, which has become clipped. Is this because some pre- or post- FA footage has been inserted?
Looks to me like the footage from above and left is non-send footage, whilst the send footage is the stuff shot from the right, level with the bit you're talking about.
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Official video now up on YouTube....
La Dura Complete: The Hardest Rock Climb In The World (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V1P97VVt6_k#ws)
I like the strange camp fire scene at 15:30, one guy playing a wooden flute with a feather sticking out the end while the dude next to him psyches up listening to his Ipod..........
Yep, that was truly astounding....
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Phill Mitchell Para climber, bouldering with one leg at the Breck. short film about bouldering. (http://vimeo.com/90170272)
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Liked that. :strongbench:
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The Alex Honnold and Cedar Wright 'Sufferfest.' Quite entertaining.
http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/the-sufferfest-with-alex-honnold-and-cedar-wright---the-full-movie/275335?header_b=1&b=1 (http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/the-sufferfest-with-alex-honnold-and-cedar-wright---the-full-movie/275335?header_b=1&b=1)
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Makes the Welsh 3000s look tame, even if you do include Bristly Ridge.
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Wide Boyz streaming on the Hot Aches site til the 7th of April, in exchange for your e-mail address.
http://hotaches.com/watch-wide-boyz/ (http://hotaches.com/watch-wide-boyz/)
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well worth it imo. Way better than the RR7 cut.
You get to see more of the other stuff they did besides Century Crack(hint -- it was a lot!) and also much more details about the Century send itself. Inspiring stuff.
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well worth it imo. Way better than the RR7 cut.
You get to see more of the other stuff they did besides Century Crack(hint -- it was a lot!) and also much more details about the Century send itself. Inspiring stuff.
The clue is in the name "RR7 cut" is exactly that, a cut of the full DVD (which is whats free to stream). ;)
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Actually wasn't the RR7 cut of Wide Boyz a totally different edit of the same basic material and with a different voice over? There was definitely stuff in the RR7 version that wasn't in the Hot Aches version, even though it was much shorter.
this ^ , my understanding is that contributors send in footage and editorial guidance but it's very much RR's baby in regard to the final piece, might be wrong.
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Fairy-muff I've not seen the RR edit, just assumed it would be a rehash of the full video.
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Liked that. :strongbench:
Yep, amazing. Surely he could do with someone actually giving him a decent spot though?
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Jacopo Larcher climbs "Prinzip Hoffnung" [ 8b/8b+ E9/E10 ] (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LIK5cVHihns#ws)
This just about scrapes into the Quality thread due to the clear footage, beauty of the route (Tommy, you and Pete got flights booked yet?) and a nice interview, but fuck me the editing is annoying. Just show more continuous climbing FFS.
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:agree:
Fantastic looking route, fantastically irritating editing. I like the voice-over, but I would also like to see more than one move at a time.
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Wide Boyz
Well that was excellent. Found the sequence of Pete on the placing gear on the lead ascent genuinely gripping even though I knew how the story ends.
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Sorry only just noticed this thread.
RR7: basically reel rock buy into the original footage of WB1 and then produce whatever edit they want. That time it involved sending me and Pete a number of requests to film extra scenes which I suppose fitted in their own particular take on the story. There were some requests that we definitely were quick to refuse on! I think the one where we took our tops off and flexed our muscles at eh camera was high on that list....
Fiend: yeah I was due to go out this year to try the route but work and injury got in the way. Apparently it is a total sun trap so almost impossible to try at this time of year now.
The editing on principle hope route is the way it is as jacopo had to go back and film for it and it's not ascent footage I think. I therefore presume he wasn't keen to climb the bold crux again for camera hence the bitty nature. It didn't give much beta away did it?!
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Tommy on the FA of Pure New (E9 6c) at Millstone (http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/one-mistake-on-this-route-will-kill-you-|-dont-expect-anything-normal-with-tom-randall-ep-3/275596?header_b=1&b=1)
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A bit excessive that URL title isn't it?! One mistake..... well more like one at the wrong place...
Gotta love Epic in their own special way. I'll go and put a UKB new route bit of info up and link there if that's more helpful in terms of info for people.
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Tommy on the FA of Pure New (E9 6c) at Millstone (http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/one-mistake-on-this-route-will-kill-you-|-dont-expect-anything-normal-with-tom-randall-ep-3/275596?header_b=1&b=1)
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Good job on the video Vanners! and nice one Tom
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Ok, have put the info on the route in the new routes section. If anyone wants to repeat it, let me know and I'll come belay you! :)
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Stone Kingdom 4, Mina on Unfamiliar, unfortunately hosted on the increasingly annoying epic TV.
http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/this-climber-has-a-terrifying-moment-on-a-notorious-route-|-nick-brown-stone-kingdom-ep-4/275869?b=1 (http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/this-climber-has-a-terrifying-moment-on-a-notorious-route-|-nick-brown-stone-kingdom-ep-4/275869?b=1)
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Punks in the Gym (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9yvxYpXtmM8#ws)
Logan Barber sends Punks in the Gym.
I assume this is before the route was "restored to its natural state" (http://www.verticallifemag.com.au/2014/04/news-araps-classic-defiled/)
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The date on that article was April 1st.
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The date on that article was April 1st.
:slap:
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Will Stanhope and friends in Patagonia.
The Lost Valley (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xPgeqHgE_ww#ws)
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8b+ trad in der Pfalz on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/94038928)
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That title alone has got me moist!
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Great looking route. Video made all the better knowing that the FA was done by Peter Croft, on-sight... Props
THE SHADOW on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/19544985)
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Kinda sure we've had that one before.....and definitely sure it's worth posting anyway :2thumbsup:
Great line....nice commentary too.
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Megos short film. Don't listen to closing comment Doyle :-\
http://dmmclimbing.com/news/2014/05/gimme-kraft-one-week-alex-megos-uk-vid/ (http://dmmclimbing.com/news/2014/05/gimme-kraft-one-week-alex-megos-uk-vid/)
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Double Dragon Andrew Pedley 8B+ on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/93954961)
Cool looking route. Narrow Kloof was always the promised land when I lived there; you can see it when walking in to Fernkloof, but there was no access, so good to see some climbing there now the MCSA bought the land.
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http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/the-gritual-part-1?current-channel=feature-films
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BMCguest
grit12345
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Why does the BMC (or any video site for that matter) not allow buffering? With my shared internet connection I get about five seconds of video for every ten seconds of loading, so I'm sure this is awesome but it's unwatchable for me. The Island site is another culprit. I find myself checking Vimeo for any new footage they post and resigning myself to never seeing any 'BMC exclusives' even though I'm a BMC member and help pay for the site.
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http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/the-gritual-part-1?current-channel=feature-films (http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/the-gritual-part-1?current-channel=feature-films)
Brilliant film.
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Why does the BMC (or any video site for that matter) not allow buffering? With my shared internet connection I get about five seconds of video for every ten seconds of loading, so I'm sure this is awesome but it's unwatchable for me. The Island site is another culprit. I find myself checking Vimeo for any new footage they post and resigning myself to never seeing any 'BMC exclusives' even though I'm a BMC member and help pay for the site.
Because loading the entire film any time someone goes to the page is extremely inefficient. Its a pain the balls but it makes a lot of sense from a financial point of view.
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It's a pain in the balls but it makes a lot of sense from a financial point of view.
That's like an epithet for the modern world.
(Thanks.)
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Good film Guy. Nice one.
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Good film Guy. Nice one.
:agree: Was going to come to the evening shin-ding but opted for a weekend in the Lakes instead.
Muriel Sarkany ascent of Punt X 9a :weakbench:
Muriel Sarkany - Punt X 9a (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gjsl3480cDo#)
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Steve McClure Attempts to Redpoint the UK's Hardest Route | HARDXS from Slackjaw Film, Ep. 12 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GWmQY_5LiwI#ws)
On a sidenote, at 12:24 -- what is the deal with chalking the shirt?
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Steve McClure Attempts to Redpoint the UK's Hardest Route | HARDXS from Slackjaw Film, Ep. 12 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GWmQY_5LiwI#ws)
On a sidenote, at 12:24 -- what is the deal with chalking the shirt?
I think you can see him use it briefly for a quick dab of chalk at 13:19.
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"Punks in the Gym" 32/8b+ - Robbie Phillips (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yamw_7NR2cs#ws)
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Awesome well made video and great send
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I think this one belongs here
Western Union E6 on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/94769863)
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Yup :)
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I started watching this the other channel. I got bored with all the fannying around, if I wanted to watch people pissing about racking their gear. I'd arrange to go out with you Fiend ;D
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Just say when Webbo :P
I really like it. Yes there is lots of faff but I like seeing the genuine experience of non-grit trad E6 (i.e. full of in-situ pegs and tat!). But more pertinently, the dry Cumbrian commentary and self-recognition of that faff is entertaining in itself.
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Boreal True Grip - The Head Game on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/97242843)
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Very good. Delightful couple as usual.
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Hazel Findlay, Spice Girl. First Female E9 - Scary! (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pUUyI39FOf4#ws)
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BD athletes Adam Pustelnik and Nico Favresse make first repeat of Orbayu (8b+/8c) in Naranjo de Bulnes, Spain on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/29963401)
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I enjoyed the Naomi/Jordan one; excellent.
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BD athletes Adam Pustelnik and Nico Favresse make first repeat of Orbayu (8b+/8c) in Naranjo de Bulnes, Spain on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/29963401)
:ohmy: It's all fun and games 'til the last few minutes in that one eh? I assume it was due to a failure of one of the sketchy-looking old aid bolts...
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BD athletes Adam Pustelnik and Nico Favresse make first repeat of Orbayu (8b+/8c) in Naranjo de Bulnes, Spain on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/29963401)
:ohmy: It's all fun and games 'til the last few minutes in that one eh? I assume it was due to a failure of one of the sketchy-looking old aid bolts...
The blurb under the video (from 2012) on Vimeo says....
At the end of the video you'll see footage of Adam as he is stabilized, rescued and hospitalized after a terrible ground-fall while attempting a new line with Nico after they had redpointed Orbayu. Adam continues to make progress in his recovery and we look forward to seeing him back cranking on the rock in 2012.
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I assume it was due to a failure of one of the sketchy-looking old aid bolts...
:slap: The penny finally dropped, :sorry:
One for Tommy...
BD athlete Mason Earle makes the FFA of Psycho Bitch (5.13b) in Yosemite on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/97352879)
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Climbing starts at 3:45...
adidas Outdoor | Place of Happiness | Brazil | Mayan Smith-Gobat & Ben Rueck | Ckimbing (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FeMR0qa9JBY#ws)
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The closest crag to my house... that I've never been to :-[
Pic Saint Loup (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SxuSCtm2htA#ws)
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o86TpaSBcWw#t=122 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o86TpaSBcWw#t=122)
Has this been on here before?
I've still got my "go climb a rock" t shirt my parents bought for me in SF in the early 90s similar to the one which you see at about 1:54 being bustled into the back of the van.
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Has this been on here before?
No, Sender Films only released the trail this morning (see the date on the video). I saw them tweet about it this morning, but since its only a trailer and not much climbing in it didn't bother embedding it here.
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So that proves you are cleverer than me :)
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Not at all, it proves that I know the answer to the question you asked and explains how I know this (and also why I didn't post it).
NB - Its worth removing the '#t=122' from posts as it means when other click through the video starts at the point you chose to copy the URL, obviously its not always '122' that follows the '=' sign as this will vary depending on how much of a video has been watched.
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Steph Davis: Crazy Beautiful Thing (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6YZWbgV_jIM#ws)
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The closest crag to my house... that I've never been to :-[
You do not have my sympathy. You're also equidistant to the Pyrenees, Western Provence and close to the Auvergne which must have a near infinite number of blocs to develop.
Gutted.
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www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjfqpE0YEOk (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjfqpE0YEOk#ws)
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"http://vimeo.com/98630192">NO SIESTA SPAIN TRIP - THE MOVIE "http://vimeo.com/user18158704"
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May as well throw this in here too...
adidas Outdoor | Wallstreet | Germany | Mlissa Le Nev | Bouldering (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KzBqlOHrekU#ws)
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Pity there's no subtitles on the No Siesta video, would have been nice to have more continuous footage too
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Bit on the long side but them holds look small!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AN5CDewKVdk#t=1021 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AN5CDewKVdk#t=1021)
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Drei Siebe (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLdIe6kicTI#ws)
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adidas Outdoor | Welcome to Barbados | Australia | Mayan Smith-Gobat & Ben Rueck | Climbing (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=saVFymDmvzk#ws)
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Some duplication/overlap but Passport to Insanity looks crazy...
adidas Outdoor | Roofs Down Under | Australia | Mayan Smith-Gobat & Ben Rueck | Climbing (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zDQ0y3Wl0vg#ws)
adidas Outdoor | Totem Pole | Tasmania | Mayan Smith-Gobat & Ben Rueck | Climbing (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BgHyb_42zcM#ws)
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Alright, I'm off work sick feeling shitty so cut me some slack because I may be negatively biased but...
is it just me or did anyone else find those two adidas films utterly, utterly, uninspiring and anodyne? They came across to me as the elevator music of climbing films - completely without value, other than to fill an 8 minute void in my lifetime with pictures of some people wearing stripes. Pictures of some people, in places, in a pointless montage of staged high-fives on top of some things; and using meaningless generic descriptive phrases such as 'totally rad'. After watching, my only thought was 'how could they make what I know are blatantly amazing climbs and places - that are inspiring lifetime ambitions for many people - seem so completely everyday and uninspiring?'. It's obvious that for these two 'adidaclones' there's no real challenge, no uncertainty, no doubt - no point. :ras: :ras: :ras:
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It would be better if they did one decent long movie (a la Melissa le Neve in Rocklands and Malawi) than these short snippets.
But I don't care since I paid nothing to watch them and don't buy Addidas shit.
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Good point well made. I'm happy to see plenty of "super-rads" and 3 stripes all over the place but the overall videos really are bland - including the intros and most of the commentary. You're right stuff like Welcome... and Passport... are stuff of Australian climbing legend, and deserve something a lot better and more down to earth.
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Don't view them as climbing films, view them as adverts, as that's what they are. We aren't the market, the market is the mass consumption people on the street who look for a few minutes and go "wow rad" without any concept of grade or difficulty. They then carry the notion in the back of their mind that they recall Adidas is in some way associated with something vaguely "cool and extreme" without recalling the exact details, when deciding what brand of trackies to buy next time they are in JJB Sport.
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So what on earth are they doing in 'Quality chuffing videos'? (shame on you Sloper :P )
They should appear in 'Souless adverts featuring climbing videos'.
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Holy crap, the music on the Kammerlander video was annoying.
He was making such good noise on his own, then they covered it up with some extreme shit that doesn't convey the tenuous nature at all.
How disappointing.
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So what on earth are they doing in 'Quality chuffing videos'? (shame on you Sloper :P )
Sorry if I've given the impression I actually watch & quality control videos before choosing which thread to post in. I don't as I have work to do most of the time, but embedding a link takes a few seconds and is then easy to find for later viewing.
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Really liked the dark ambient music at the start of the Beat video - suited the austerity of the rock and the severity of the climbing very well. The upbeat stuff on the acutal ascent was pretty pointless.
Great bit of rock / climbing - a much better demonstration of the power of 3 stripes. Might pop into Decathlon this afternoon to see what's in their bargain bin ;)
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Fiend, there's a factory shop next to Awesome Walls in Stockport (and a Maccy Ds just down the road).
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Andy Cave on an unspecified nice-looking piece of alpine limestone:
http://youtu.be/3VHVNx8IyOI (http://youtu.be/3VHVNx8IyOI)
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f8b FA at 55 :bow:
Some good snippets between the german talk (and some decent air miles clocked), but the climbing proper starts at the 6 minute mark.
Write up here (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=41921)
www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLdIe6kicTI (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fLdIe6kicTI#ws)
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That looks easy.
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Andy Cave on an unspecified nice-looking piece of alpine limestone:
http://youtu.be/3VHVNx8IyOI (http://youtu.be/3VHVNx8IyOI)
really like this, have that!
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Hawcliffe on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/97551841)
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That's a lot of esoteric hard grit in one video! Good stuff, good that these places get attention.
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In case it hasn't been posted here already and if people haven't seen it, here is The Wizards Apprentice about Adam Ondra.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7bqwgl87YU (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7bqwgl87YU#ws)
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In case it hasn't been posted here already
It won't have been since thats not a legitimate upload from the person who made the film (http://www.adamondrafilm.com/en/news).
I doubt it will stay on YouTube for long. :whistle: (http://rg3.github.com/youtube-dl/)
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Might have missed it but I don't recall seeing this on UKB before...
Michele Caminati - Grit Ground Up - Three 'Hard Grit' classics (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HBcaIPUH6N0#ws)
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since there's no "vintage chuffing vids"...
Climbing World Finals Men - Birmingham 1991 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ngbm09qlbvg#ws)
The roster:
Francois Petit
Guido Kstermeyer
Elie Chevieux
Jean-Baptiste tribout
Ben Moon
Yuji Hirayama
Francois Lombard
Stefan Glowacz
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Nice looking climb, apologies for an EpicTV vid.
Stefano Ghisolfi finally Climbs his 9a Super Project (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eNTlmYGQPLo#ws)
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Le Dolomiti cicloarrampicando on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/87856826)
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Brasil Vertical (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jeSlH_8YxGU#ws)
(~8minutes of bouldering, the rest appears to be routes, not watched it all to QC before anyone complains about it being crap).
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Tuzgle - Full Movie (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=86DO6bcitWU#ws)
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"Its....sick"
Rockin' Cuba - Trailer (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P0sRepn9s40#ws)
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Beat Kammerlander - Mordillo free solo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8iyaCK-xf10#)
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BD Athlete Joe Kinder Sends Maquina Muerte, 5.14+ on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/101356541)
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Beat Kammerlander - Mordillo free solo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8iyaCK-xf10#)
That was well bad ass, good sound track as well. The vid is looking a bit dated though as there was no driving to the crag or him updating his insterspam account during the shakeout at half height.
P.S. Same dude as 5 posts up.
P.P.S That's the crag with 'Speed' non?
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The next of the mammut reclimbing the classic films -Tony Yaniro's Grand Illiusion
Rock Climbing Classics | EP#5 Grand Illusion 8a (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PmzjzHjSNPM#ws)
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Beat Kammerlander - Mordillo free solo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8iyaCK-xf10#)
That was well bad ass, good sound track as well. The vid is looking a bit dated though as there was no driving to the crag or him updating his insterspam account during the shakeout at half height.
P.S. Same dude as 5 posts up.
P.P.S That's the crag with 'Speed' non?
Impressive climbing and a great looking route.
The sound track was certainly of it's time and appropriate for a 40-something with a ponytail. :whistle: I liked the cowbells.
Here's Speed, complete with driving to the crag.
Matthias Knig climbing SPEED at Voralpsee (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=asu2JSllDBc#ws)
The next of the mammut reclimbing the classic films -Tony Yaniro's Grand Illiusion
Rock Climbing Classics | EP#5 Grand Illusion 8a (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PmzjzHjSNPM#ws)
Great to see this. Once-upon-a-time I went there to hold the ropes for 'the Shirley Temple of British Rock'. He decided not to bother pretty quickly.
Here's Mr Yaniro in his prime.
Tony Yaniro on Paisano Overhang (Suicide Rock, CA) (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fu7gp-aKsbo#)
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Brasil Vertical - skipped through, seems good climbing but nothing special.
Tuzgle - good, a fair bit of filler but the lines and climbing are amazing.
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Cuba - skipped through most.
Kinder - okay if you like standard limestone.
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Eli A First Ascent on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/101289447)
Nice looking climbing, manky looking topout!
Some of their other vids are good too.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YJ-KbcuUAQ (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YJ-KbcuUAQ)
Nice looking climbing. Wonder who their sponsors are?
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No idea, only saw the credits :clown:
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Edited due to Mr Improv struggling to use a time slider.
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Edited due to Mr Improv struggling to use a time slider.
You could have removed the 's' from https at the same time so it embeds automagically :chair:
Strawberry Roan (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_YJ-KbcuUAQ#ws)
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Or the resident minion can do it for me.
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Or the resident minion can do it for me.
If thats an expectation then you can....
(http://i.imgur.com/eAqImmY.gif)
I don't mind doing it for those who might not be aware but you know full well how to use this forum and are just being lazy.
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Dry your eyes. I forgot.
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No tears here, I've been waiting all day for an appropriate use of that GIF to come along and that fitted perfectly.
If you forgot why not say so in the first place, or was it an attempt at humor? If the later it was pretty poor.
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It was the latter, sorry my infantile humour falls short of your high standards, I must use that brilliant emoticon you always use a bit more
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I must use that brilliant emoticon you always use a bit more
They do help ;)
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One Week with Alex Megos on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/93236289)
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Great Wolfrey on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/101647298)
Nice video and good looking venue.
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Yeah looks good, always nice to see these far out places. Not sure about "all the best routes", aren't there some good E2-4 routes that aren't shown? And that Shewolf looks awful. New stuff looks good tho.
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Two videos of the same crack, the crack that seems to be taking more out of me than I am from it...
Alex Schweikart climbing a 7b roof crack - Couteray, France on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/83504300)
Sweet Line 5: trad climbing, Le Couteray by Pete mason. on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/7792679)
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So basically it's piss and a burd can do it. Good choice of line though! Move over 5m to the right when you've done it?
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:sick: Not sure I even want to get involved in Fr8a overhanging offwidths. [shudders]
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I know I'm probably being stupid, but where's the 8a offwidth video?
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It's not. The offwidth is to the right.
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Le Dolomiti cicloarrampicando on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/87856826)
Did anyone else watch this? Non-quality chuffing portions but fairly interesting travelogue thing. Probably more interesting if you understand a word of Italian!
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....not to mention sunset yoga footage :sick: :sick: :sick:
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www.youtube.com/watch?v=uv2dxkfvY4k (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uv2dxkfvY4k#ws)
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Rock Climbing Classics | EP#6 Hubble 8c+ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Nbzj3TxDKE#ws)
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8iyaCK-xf10#t=41 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8iyaCK-xf10#t=41)
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We had this video before on the previous page. I'm not complaining though as it's an awesome vid, got some big ginger nuts.
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Soz.. Don't look at the chuffing vid pages that often..
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Aus' resident strong old man, Simon Weill having a rare day actually tieing in to tick an 8b+.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=34tPQV_HZ6Q (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=34tPQV_HZ6Q#ws)
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BD Athlete Roland Hemetzberger sends Zarathustra, 8c+ on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/103776938)
8c+ crack in Austria. Get in.
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Excellent footage completely ruined by an editor suffering of ADHD. But what a brilliant looking route :w00t:
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Weill old? Good lord
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Africa Fusion Official HD Trailer on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/104167125)
OMG travelogue etc but fuck me some of the climbing footage looks great as does that cute chipmunky blonde girl
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http://www.climbing.co.za/2014/08/kilian-fischhuber-sends-digital-warfare-south-africa/ (http://www.climbing.co.za/2014/08/kilian-fischhuber-sends-digital-warfare-south-africa/)
I'm sure I could embed this from epiktv somehow, but anyway. That rock looks ace.
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Adam Ondra - Illusionost 9a on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/105151286)
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http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/this-looks-like-the-hardest-single-finger-crack-move-we-have-ever-seen-%7C-epictv-climbing-daily-ep-323/600189?header_b=1&b=1 (http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/this-looks-like-the-hardest-single-finger-crack-move-we-have-ever-seen-%7C-epictv-climbing-daily-ep-323/600189?header_b=1&b=1)
Anyone know what Tommy's putting on his fingers around the 40 second mark? Looks super-glueish but I suspect it's something less severe?
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Just normal superglue. You'd think it'd be a terrible idea, but it works very well! I use it occasionally on the back of my hands for very thin tape gloves as well.
Interestingly (or maybe not?) there's an exothermic reaction when you combine chalk and superglue - it's a nice little hand warmer :-)
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I can see all the punters like me coming (un)stuck at Millstone in the not too distant future.
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Is there any danger due to the toxins in superglue being absorbed through the skin?
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanoacrylate (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyanoacrylate)
safe for use sealing wounds and on skin init.
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The decomposition products of the glue are a bit irritant - might interfere with rapid healing. Probably not much of an issue given how knackered your fingers would already have to be to use it. From what I recall, the medical grade stuff is more stable to hydrolysis and less irritant, but absurdly expensive.
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http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/this-looks-like-the-hardest-single-finger-crack-move-we-have-ever-seen-%7C-epictv-climbing-daily-ep-323/600189?header_b=1&b=1 (http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/this-looks-like-the-hardest-single-finger-crack-move-we-have-ever-seen-%7C-epictv-climbing-daily-ep-323/600189?header_b=1&b=1)
Did you write that when you sent the video in, Tommy?? ;)
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:lol:
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[/quote]
Did you write that when you sent the video in, Tommy?? ;)
[/quote]
I wish. I'd tried to get them to call it "you'll never guess what this guy did with his fingers in a crack next..."
You know. Clickbait heaven. ;-)
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Eye of Odin on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/105324816)
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'Eye of Odin', it really is. Great name, route looks amazing. Hope Ben is able to climb again soon!
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Might be accused of blowing my own trumpet but here goes anyway -
http://youtu.be/_nGdx1IGh48 (http://youtu.be/_nGdx1IGh48)
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You've got a lovely trumpet Pritch.
Really enjoyed that.
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It's a great little film Ben.
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Nice one.
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I watched it elsewhere but it's a great short film. Nice work.
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Might be accused of blowing my own trumpet but here goes anyway -
http://youtu.be/_nGdx1IGh48 (http://youtu.be/_nGdx1IGh48)
The barefaced cheek of it
Really nice! great piece of film making
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Eye of Odin on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/105324816)
First 45 seconds I swear I was just watching Chimes
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Effort Pritch
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Just ignore me.
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Might be accused of blowing my own trumpet but here goes anyway -
http://youtu.be/_nGdx1IGh48 (http://youtu.be/_nGdx1IGh48)
Loved this.
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Eye of Odin on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/105324816)
Looks incredible. Bet you've got a semi from all the knee-barrage.
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Might be accused of blowing my own trumpet but here goes anyway -
http://youtu.be/_nGdx1IGh48 (http://youtu.be/_nGdx1IGh48)
Top quality! Punting off the top with no draws, classic!
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Eye of Odin on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/105324816)
Epic line, The eye feature looks amazing. Ben cruised it!
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Might be accused of blowing my own trumpet but here goes anyway -
http://youtu.be/_nGdx1IGh48 (http://youtu.be/_nGdx1IGh48)
Loved this.
+1
Shoe geeks will note the 5.10 > La Sportiva switch.
a va sans dire.
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Is there any danger due to the toxins in superglue being absorbed through the skin?
if anyone is as geeky as me...
http://www.straightdope.com/columns/read/2187/was-super-glue-invented-to-seal-battle-wounds-in-vietnam (http://www.straightdope.com/columns/read/2187/was-super-glue-invented-to-seal-battle-wounds-in-vietnam)
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No Sleep 'til Bakewell on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/108762454)
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Holy sugar plum fairy :o
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Great stuff.
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Best watch advert ever!
Monsters :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench:
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http://youtu.be/cxy01Xdww9o (http://youtu.be/cxy01Xdww9o)
Wish I had dreams like that...
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this is the best climbing I've seen in ages.
No hd but still plenty of sweaty palms.
Not bouldering but plenty of high balls.
Proper old school climbing and tunes!
The ending- has got to hurt!
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=V3DTXq289wk (http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=V3DTXq289wk)
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Fatneck, that was a brilliant, thanks!
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Great vid. Great story... (Good to see the Paul Ingham & early 90's Ben Moon style never ages).
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Wow just watched the Tom and Pete video... I need to do something different with my life.
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Bala Bala! | A short film by Stripe visuals about Klemen Bečan's climbing in Osp on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/110348247)
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That was great!
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Rocklands: a trad diary by James Pearson & Caroline Ciavalidini (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sr7siyqnx5M#ws)
I hope this is a trailer for a proper film. The snippets of climbing footage are great but it's taking airpor car pick-ups, driving to the crag, parking the car, cleaning teeth, eating breakfast footage to new levels....
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The Consumed disciples have produced the fruits of their efforts.
ALOT of grit climbing in this video from Neil Furniss, some you'll know and some you won't
Some Shit New Climbers on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/110715065)
personal fave moments are the Oli G cutting loose at the top of Simbas and all the falls off of 'Cover me in chocolate'
nice one Neil, i'm psyched for the grit finally.
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cover me in chocolate looks rather good
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Some fine sketching going on.
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http://youtu.be/cxy01Xdww9o (http://youtu.be/cxy01Xdww9o)
Wish I had dreams like that...
Squib is a bit of a legend.
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D&B, Pixies, Primal Scream, sketching up Grit headpoints, Ron Hills (and Dreads in Tassie)... the 90s revival in full effect!
(What is the Neu!esque track for Drifter and Sole Survivor?)
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It is NEU! - Neuschnee
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http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/choronzon-e10-first-ascent-by-neil-mawson?current-channel=all-channels (http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/choronzon-e10-first-ascent-by-neil-mawson?current-channel=all-channels)
Cruised it
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The lads return for some more action.
Old school with some questionable music selections.
Looks like Tom has made a full recovery from his big groundfall in the last film.
Some top quality climbing.
If I went climbing with this lot I would probably be hospitalised within a few minutes!
:popcorn:
http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=IYIvX5vNA6s (http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=IYIvX5vNA6s)
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That just killed my early night. Brilliant...
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A really cool little film:
Family Man on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/111692876)
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Sonnie Trotter doing another 5.14 trad first ascent?? Nah can't see the appeal really ;)
That was cool. The kid's expressions are LOL. Climbing looked great, pity there wasn't a second cameraman though.
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Climbing looked great, pity there wasn't a second cameraman though.
Yes, but at least it was the FA and nothing else. For example, the Squib/Tasmania video was super slick but there were so many camera angles they can't have all been the FA and I didn't know which was which - it detracted from it for me.
Bloody meaty runout on the Trotter thing!
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Yup, I suspect in the vein of it being too hard to stop and place gear....
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I thought maybe there was "too much gear to stop and be hard"
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The video is sick but don't give you a sense of how steep that line is:
(http://patagonia.typepad.com/.a/6a00d8341d07fd53ef01b8d090356b970c-800wi)
The whole story is here (http://www.thecleanestline.com/2014/11/family-man-514-a-short-story-and-video-of-a-first-ascent.html) and worth reading, plus has some other angles of the climb
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:strongbench:
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Looks mega.
Some less-than-subtle attempts to stir the pot on 8a have drifted off into the ether without comment:
"What a great video and line that maybe could have been even better if he had continued to the top and not started with three preplaced pieces? "
More interesting to me is Trotter's write up, with vague attempts to pretend like dragging your partner and newborn to the crag for a belay isn't a tad selfish. They do look like happy campers in the vid though, and at least the wee one is old enough to interact with the environment at this point, so perhaps a bit judgemental on my part.
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Those comments *should* disappear without trace. It's pretty obvious from the video that continuing above the anchors would be pretty easy, and it would be similarly easy to climb up to place the first few cams then downclimb. 8a.nobs
The kid thing.....well....I guess that depends on the reality of how it works for them :shrug:
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Agree. Just thought it worth pointing out some ill-informed, ironic (predominantly sport climbing site questions the merits of lowering off before the top) conjecture. For the shits and giggles you see.
As for the baby thing, I'm going to hazard a guess that you've never been 2 months down the parenthood road before. But you're right, in that it all depends.
More importantly, again, it looks mega...maybe not as mega as that roof crack of Tommy's in Wales, but more than worthy nonetheless.
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NOTHING is as good as that roof crack in Wales ;-)
Except... everything else in Wales.
As for the baby thing - I always think you have to remember that hardly anything in a video on the internet is anything like a representation of reality. I mean, if I think of anything that I've made or done, it looks like I live in cellar under my house with Pete Whittaker, I only climb cracks and I'm a total idiot. Oh wait a sec.
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Nah that's not true, you climbed that thing at Millstone....
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Chuffing?
Nice little DWS video with Mauro Calibani.
Aspettando il Sole The Movie, Episode # 1: aquasolo on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/112035671)
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Good vid. Shambles ethics!
Where's the ground up tekkers??
Good job team megaphone wasn't around! Makes it feel a bit more justifiable megaphone heckling him off diablo a few years ago. Think his words were "Bastardos" :lol:
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https://www.reelhouse.org/hotaches/redemption/purchase/rent (https://www.reelhouse.org/hotaches/redemption/purchase/rent)
Redemption available.
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Streamed it. Entertaining enough if you want a potted history of Keen Yoof, quite concise and doesn't drag on too long with the talking heads bits - a few funny comments from Jack G too.
Showing his background in grit repeats was a nice touch, with candor about his yooffulness (sp!). Showing his return to harder trad since coming back from Europe would have been good as well.
The grading hype over Walk Of Life was a bit overhyped. Obviously there was a lot of fuss but to anyone with half a brain it's obvious that most commentators understand neither the grading system for the hypothetical onsight, nor the logical reasons behind James's grades.
The footage of Rhapsody was good, he pisses it.
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I've nothing but respect and admiration for JPs accomplishments on rock in recent years. The way he has systematically chipped away at his weaknesses - the sporty side of things - and then gone on to smash a load of hard trad routes in in great style is superb.
However, I have to say I'm a little sceptical about this film. For me, if he'd just climbed Rhapsody, written a wee blog about it and left it at that, I would've probably had similar thoughts, i.e. nice one JP.
But to approach a film company specifically to document a presumably self-proclaimed, and at that point pre-emptive redemption (is that an oxymoron?)...well, that seems a bit silly to me.
Apologies if that seems harsh, I realise some on here may know James personally...so, again, I'd like to be clear that, in the main, I admire what he's done on the rock.
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He's a pro athlete, any promtion you can do can only be good for your profile.
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Exactly. It's what he does for a living.
In some ways it's even more impressive to me as it took some serious balls to go back to that route after everything that had happened previously as it was. Having a film crew there was putting even more pressure on himself.
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Film looks good, nice sort of conversational format.
He's a pro athlete, any promtion you can do can only be good for your profile.
Just on a slight off-topic note, but when did all full time climbers become athletes?
I am not just being contrary, I think there is a lot of baggage that goes a lot with the term "athlete", why isn't pro-climber good enough?
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Semantics: to be a pro-climber, just means that someone gets paid for climbing. The only thing you need, is someone that gives you money. To be an athlete, someone has go to put the work in.
Not all pros are athletes.
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Athletes have to do athletics don't they, by definition? I tend to find use of "athlete" by climbers seems like a bit of an affectation.
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I thought an athlete was simply someone who participates in a physical sport. Unless you take issue with the word "sport" then we're all athletes by this definition. Sweet.
Although I did laugh a while back when a sponsored friend of mine proclaimed he was an athlete.
As for JP, well, as a brand ambassador / athlete / pro I guess I shouldn't fault him for doing what he must.
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That's the point, but they don't need to do necessarily athletics.
Being an athlete, to me, means embracing an athlete's life, in terms of committment to the discipline, to the training, to a life that's devoted, to an extent that can vary, to a sport discipline.
The term athlete seems a bit of an affectation because most climbers do not show this attitude: they simply tour the world in good company, crushing hard boulders and routes and having fun. Who could blame them for this?
But that seems to be a completely different life from those who maybe have a regular job, and train for a goal with lots of effort and sacrifice.
Being an athlete isn't about having fun, to me.
It's about working hard day in day out, on and off the specific medium on which you'll perform.
So, not all pros are athletes, and not all athletes are pro. But I think that all pros SHOULD be athletes.
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What about a piss artist?
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I think that all pros SHOULD be athletes.
I almost totally agree with this. But it's a tad dogmatic.
On the one hand, it would be great to see less of the sub-standard attention seeking charlatans who pass for pros, on the other I fear this may come at the expense of diversity in what is a massively nebulous activity.
For example, by this definition Honnold wouldn't be a pro. By his own admission he isn't a sport or bouldering wad - not an athlete - maybe through lack of application, though.
It's your classic Si O'Connor / Rich Simpson dilemma.
-
An interesting comparison to me within climbing of the "athletes" vs the "pro-climbers" would be to look at the WC guys. I'd say they're all "athletes", as well as Pro-climbers. Someone like dave graham, or Chris Sharma, are pro-climbers, but not really athletes - by there own admission.
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but is athlete not meaningless unless it is used in the strictest terms ( some who does athletics) and in the context of climbing all it will be used for is to flog someone's cross training fad.
plus "athlete", to me, is indelibly associated with elitism and drug cheats.
I am also not sure that the rich Simpson comment was fair, he was incredibly strong but just did/claimed some dubious things, sounds like alot of athletes to me
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but is athlete not meaningless unless it is used in the strictest terms ( some who does athletics)
"Athletics" used in that particular sense - basically limited to running, jumping, throwing and excluding other forms of physically strenuous sport - is a uniquely British usage not found elsewhere in the world. Not even the other English speaking bits of it. Sean MacColl is Canadian and his sponsors in this case are Swiss, so you can't reasonably expect them to speak your local dialect.
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but is athlete not meaningless unless it is used in the strictest terms ( some who does athletics)
"Athletics" used in that particular sense - basically limited to running, jumping, throwing and excluding other forms of physically strenuous sport - is a uniquely British usage not found elsewhere in the world. Not even the other English speaking bits of it. Sean MacColl is Canadian and his sponsors in this case are Swiss, so you can't reasonably expect them to speak your local dialect.
No but I suppose you could expect the world governing body to determine it
http://www.iaaf.org/disciplines (http://www.iaaf.org/disciplines)
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IAAF is only the governing body of athletics.
It isn't the world regulator of the concept 'athlete'.
A governing body can define its terms and its remit how it wishes. It only has authority insofar as other people want to rely on or be associate with it.
When I think of 'athletes' I do automatically think of traditional 'athletics', which for me is about a proud tradition of grass roots, cheap-as-chips hard work and early mornings. Increasingly I think a lot of the pro climbers do live in that kind of world?
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but is athlete not meaningless unless it is used in the strictest terms ( some who does athletics)
"Athletics" used in that particular sense - basically limited to running, jumping, throwing and excluding other forms of physically strenuous sport - is a uniquely British usage not found elsewhere in the world. Not even the other English speaking bits of it. Sean MacColl is Canadian and his sponsors in this case are Swiss, so you can't reasonably expect them to speak your local dialect.
No but I suppose you could expect the world governing body to determine it
http://www.iaaf.org/disciplines (http://www.iaaf.org/disciplines)
I see your IAAF and raise you a Merriam Webster:
athlete noun \ˈath-ˌlēt, ˈa-thə-ˌlēt\
: a person who is trained in or good at sports, games, or exercises that require physical skill and strength
and a Collins
athlete (ˈθliːt Pronunciation for athlete )
Definitions
noun
a person trained to compete in sports or exercises involving physical strength, speed, or endurance
a person who has a natural aptitude for physical activities
(mainly British) a competitor in track and field events
(I don't have access to the OED online and my paper copy is in a box somewhere)
I don't see Sean MacColl not matching these definitions, except the last (mainly British) one
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However, I have to say I'm a little sceptical about this film. For me, if he'd just climbed Rhapsody, written a wee blog about it and left it at that, I would've probably had similar thoughts, i.e. nice one JP.
But to approach a film company specifically to document a presumably self-proclaimed, and at that point pre-emptive redemption (is that an oxymoron?)...well, that seems a bit silly to me.
Apologies if that seems harsh, I realise some on here may know James personally...so, again, I'd like to be clear that, in the main, I admire what he's done on the rock.
It doesn't really work like that in most cases. Most of us climbers who make various films/videos/whatever are friends with the filmmakers and it's more a "hey do you fancy doing this next year..." kinda thing. Sometimes it sounds cool, sometimes it doesn't. If both parties like the project then it's got a chance of happening! It's pretty similar to how it works between photographers and climbers as well. I'm almost certain James would never have approached Diff to make that film. It would have resulted from a vague chat in a pub or on a sunny afternoon sat around in Pembroke. No Hollywood film deal meeting rooms that's for sure!
The downside I think, is that if filmmakers don't personally know some of the "most interesting" climbers then their story will probably never get told and we'll never get to see it.
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I'm almost certain James would never have approached Diff to make that film.
I have a vague recollection of reading a Hot Aches post that suggests he did...from memory, it was in the context of Hot Aches not being so keen to film Rhapsody yet again, until James explained his reasons, which apparently constituted a nice story arc. Can't find it now though, so it could just be a figment of my imagination.
Not sure it matters following the whole exposure / pro conversation. Plus many (most?) of us on here, including myself, are equally shameless narcissists with Vimeo accounts stuffed to the gills with "Two from somewhere" type flicks. I shouldn't play holier than thou as a result.
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I never knew that. Your memory is probably correct... it'd be strange thing to imagine that story :-)
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Either way I can't really see where the problem is. "Professional climber gets film crew to film him." And?
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Wanks off into a cup
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Excellent
-
Classic Dense.
-
Note to self: never let dense make me a latte.
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Time we did the best post of the year awards...
Drole, offensive and humour so dry its cracked my screen... Dense gets my vote best one liner of the year with this purile post... Which I found most amusing...
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Time we did the best post of the year awards...
Drole, offensive and humour so dry its cracked my screen... Dense gets my vote best one liner of the year with this purile post... Which I found most amusing...
sorry, but nothing comes close to
Tough words from the man who clearly has only a grasp on his own cock, whilst reading back his own posts to himself, wallowing ecstatically in his perceived sense of loathsome smug tory superiority until a thimble full of fetid tory gunk drips into a fistfull of tissues. And as you catch a glimpse of your own drained vacant face reflected in the laptop screen a wave of inadequacy washes you back into your otherwise empty moribund existence as an unwelcome self-parodying web antagonist.
In summary; fuck off.
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sorry, but nothing comes close to
Tough words from the man who clearly has only a grasp on his own cock, whilst reading back his own posts to himself, wallowing ecstatically in his perceived sense of loathsome smug tory superiority until a thimble full of fetid tory gunk drips into a fistfull of tissues. And as you catch a glimpse of your own drained vacant face reflected in the laptop screen a wave of inadequacy washes you back into your otherwise empty moribund existence as an unwelcome self-parodying web antagonist.
In summary; fuck off.
Whilst I had a good idea who that quote was directed at, and vaguely remembered reading it at the time, I couldn't remember the author. So I just copied it into the Forum search function, lock stock and barrel.
I wasn't sure whether it would cope with such an involved search string, but even so I was rather taken aback by the result of the search:-
"Each word must be at least two characters long." :lol:
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Well that's learnt ya :lol:
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Really enjoyed this one of Steve Mac and Neil Mawson getting "sandbagged" at the Gorge
http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/mcclure-mawson-verdon-1 (http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/mcclure-mawson-verdon-1)
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Really enjoyed this one of Steve Mac and Neil Mawson getting "sandbagged" at the Gorge
http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/mcclure-mawson-verdon-1 (http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/mcclure-mawson-verdon-1)
Steve "onsighting techy 8s with my shoelaces undone" Mac. Really good.
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That was great! If I remember correctly Hallucinogen Wall was freed by Hansjrg Auer after inspection during and aid ascent.
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I enjoyed it too. The moment when the friend pulls the flake off the wall is terrifying!
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Was just going to mention that bit :o
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Soul of stone. Bernt Arnold smokes a pipe and free solos barefoot
http://vimeo.com/113934922
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I love that too. Just a man doing the thing that makes him happy.
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Nice. Really looks like a beautiful area, not seen that come through so strongly in footage before.
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That was great! If I remember correctly Hallucinogen Wall was freed by Hansjrg Auer after inspection during and aid ascent.
Correct. There was also a bizarre "drytooling" free ascent before that ... thankfully a trend that didn't catch on.
http://www.thenorthfacejournal.com/the-first-free-ascent-of-hallucinogen-wall/ (http://www.thenorthfacejournal.com/the-first-free-ascent-of-hallucinogen-wall/)
http://www.climbing.com/news/hallucinogen-goes-andldquo-free-and-dryandrdquo/ (http://www.climbing.com/news/hallucinogen-goes-andldquo-free-and-dryandrdquo/)
I remember seeing photos of that...looked at least as much fun as actual aid climbing. The (proper) free version must be a variation on the described pitch, no? The aid pitch doesn't sound like 8a free.
-
If that's the case then DT free effort seems silly. I could understand if it was a long, thin peg seam, or something.
-
Dry tooling on anything other than choss is always silly.
-
Toni Lamprecht befreit sein Projekt Black Flag (8c+/9a) in Kochel (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Et1rPEjnUjQ#ws)
-
http://youtu.be/3R3-YwDZrzg (http://youtu.be/3R3-YwDZrzg)
Eat your heart out Honnold et al.
-
Josh Wharton in the Black Canyon of Gunnison (https://vimeo.com/113758922)
Zero driving-to-the-crag but does contain a small amount of entertaining-baby-with-squeaky-toy.
Nice!
Related.. This is quite a cool interview i think with Josh Wharton.
http://enormocast.com/episode-53-josh-wharton-to-good-to-fail/ (http://enormocast.com/episode-53-josh-wharton-to-good-to-fail/)
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Superb, lovingly shot film about Staffs grit climbing from Dave "Aniseed" H
http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/against-the-grain-a-film-about-staffordshire-gritstone?current-channel=all-channels (http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/against-the-grain-a-film-about-staffordshire-gritstone?current-channel=all-channels)
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Only managed to watch this on my phone the other day. Watching it now on a proper screen I can really appreciate just how good it is.
Honoured and more than slightly gobsmacked by the nod I get at the end.
-
Well deserved!!!!!
-
really enjoyed it, laid back and thoughtful. good scene.
-
Well this looks good:
http://youtu.be/ZOScetWwEwc (http://youtu.be/ZOScetWwEwc)
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I agree, that looks like it has potential!
-
I thought this was a sweet little film. Never climbed in 'the Black' but would love to one day.
Black Diamond Ambassador Josh Wharton and The Black Binder on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/113758922)
-
Have we had this? Nico climbs 'his hardest crack ever'. Which makes it pretty hard...
The Recovery Drink on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/116283036)
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Nice little film, not TOO serious.
-
Very much looking forward to going there this year! Looks like it'd be good to pack a fishing rod :)
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www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEvUAXQY9wg (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEvUAXQY9wg#ws)
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First Try on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/113207015)
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Nice fight 5:50 and onwards!
-
Peixe Porco 9a – first ascent on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/117499590)
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Old school Siurana offering.
Adam Ondra - El Turrn 8c OS, Siurana (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lnnao7rX3Aw#ws)
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Onsighting is gooood :2thumbsup:
New skool skills. Love watching stuff like that - his pacing, tactics, split-second decisions. Although he reads the rock so well it still ends up looking like a smooth redpoint ;)
-
https://vimeo.com/114622030
Spanish trad Quarryman, sort of.
-
What the fuck was that at 5:40? :blink:
-
Shaking fingers mid-move to get some feeling / blood-flow back.
-
Of the rock I asked for the moon (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FgjoFv33kKk#ws)
Really enjoyed this one.
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+1 Quality slabclimbing
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Of the rock I asked for the moon (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FgjoFv33kKk#ws)
Really enjoyed this one.
Nice - though veering dangerously into Pseud's Corner at times: "...the holds are subjective...". Good grief.
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That reminded me of Ron Kauk's part on that old dosage. Still undecided whether that's a good or a bad thing...
Excellent footage of an excellent looking route though.
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Yeah nice. I like the "holds are subjective" bit, some of the rest was too much. I like the cat too though!
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hollywood on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/121155112)
Buys crushing King Of Thieves
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Nice one J. Good to see hard British FAs.
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Anyone got the password?
-
Strange - It wasn't password protected before... No idea why it is now!
-
On Climbing pr0n (http://eveningsends.com/climbing/the-return-of-climbing-pr0n/)....
Aesthetic Series - Episode 1 on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/113724620)
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Really enjoyed this one.
Me too, that actually made this thug of a climber want to go find slabs <shudder>. I might need to watch Nibs training now ...
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www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=aM_VlQCT5wo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aM_VlQCT5wo#ws)
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I thought this was quite well done.
Arthur, grimpeur de l'extrme on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/121973444)
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Probably a repost, but it's flipping good.
https://vimeo.com/80941121
That's what it's all about...
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Great bit of hand flailing on the crux, what a feeling
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that's brilliant. It really manages to capture what a hard project feels like. Lovely how chuffed everyone is for him at the end.
-
I couldn't help thinking he was lucky to have such an understanding wife.
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Yeah part of me felt it was a bit selfish ditching his wife and kids for weeks on end for what is essentially a pointless activity.
-
I couldn't help thinking he was lucky to have such an understanding wife.
you never know, his wife might be desperate to see the back of him
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I thought this was quite well done.
Arthur, grimpeur de l'extrme on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com/121973444)
Quite well done indeed, but terrible nonetheless. Another level of pretentiousness. Quite disturbing in whichever message it carries. Or maybe I missed the irony? I'm definitely getting old.
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I guess it's supposed to be ironic. Ironically he comes across as a dick.
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Errr. It's just a bit of a piss-take / spoof, to spice up a video of someone climbing a standard Euro-lime route. I thought it was mildly entertaining.
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Quite well done indeed, but terrible nonetheless. Another level of pretentiousness. Quite disturbing in whichever message it carries. Or maybe I missed the irony? I'm definitely getting old.
I meant that it was reasonably well done as a little jokey video. I met the guy in Spain last October, seemed nice, though he kept trying to sabotage me by offering chocolate biscuits round at the crag.
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The parody was mildly entertaining and a bit crap in about equal measure (could have added a few spoof sponsors at the end). Good on them for trying something a bit different.
I enjoyed the inadvertent (?) juxtaposition of the two films.
-
I enjoyed the inadvertent (?) juxtaposition of the two films.
:agree:
They were made for each other.
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:agree:
And I thought the parody one was pretty funny. Stop hatin on tha geez!
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haha i was going to repost the parody one!
i liked the multiple citations...one can find elements of la vie au bout des doigts (the van, the running), one of michele caminati's font vids (the morning coffee) and king lines (helicopter)
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haha i was going to repost the parody one!
i liked the multiple citations...one can find elements of la vie au bout des doigts (the van, the running), one of michele caminati's font vids (the morning coffee) and king lines (helicopter)
...the grass chewing under the crag (realisation in dosage I)...
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5352enPrEuY
Some nice sloper slapping here.
-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MRfQKW8Vef4&feature=youtu.be
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Just watched that via UKC. Not sure if the film itself is deserving of 'quality' (the slowing it down bits were a bit odd), but good that the send is on film (though was it the actual redpoint?). Anyway, can only imagine how hard it would be to do the crux of Tuppence after all that climbing...
-
Not sure where this should go, but he's on a rope for most of it so...
https://youtu.be/gB-makVoIPU
"they don't have to be able to Nureyev around like an ass"
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I think it belongs here. Funnily enough, the only time I've seriously tried no-hands climbing was in Johnny's company.
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I think that I couldn't be more distant from Johnny's view (lowest angle, etc.) and that "no hands climbing" to me sounds like "no cock fucking", but I have to admit that what he does on that slab is really really really cool.
Usual :bow: apply.
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Dawes is defo unique .
-
Genius video that.
-
Really enjoyed that
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If anyone is wondering what he's on about with the helicopters and points of light check out his recent footwork tips (http://archclimbingwall.com/johnny-dawes-exclusive-technique-series-footwork/)
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Nice contrast to the BIFF shenanigans. The BIFF should run in tandem with the Dawes International Feet-only Festival, and there should be an overall champ.
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If anyone is wondering what he's on about with the helicopters and points of light check out his recent footwork tips (http://archclimbingwall.com/johnny-dawes-exclusive-technique-series-footwork/)
Top article. Isn't that Downhill Racer he's soling one-handed in the Guardian vid?
-
Yeah, DR one handed. Still waiting for a left-hand only ascent too! When's Megos next over?
-
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=lQ_5ACgBSBU
The Master speaks -this time using hands and feet! :)
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Can't embed this one...
http://www.prana.com/life/2015/04/22/climbing-at-the-highest-level-with-chris-sharma/
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Can't embed this one...
Jeez, some people....
http://ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/HowTo_Embed_Videos_to_UKBouldering
: :rtfm: :whistle:
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Snort.
Really liked that, amazing looking route, aesthetic and desperate. Hope the pebbles don't come off.
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Can't embed this one...
Jeez, some people....
http://ukbouldering.com/wiki/index.php/HowTo_Embed_Videos_to_UKBouldering
: :rtfm: :whistle:
Look at who wrote that.
Now try applying it to that video.
The video isn't hosted on either Vimeo nor YouTube so the page doesn't apply.
When you click on the "Share or Embed" link on the video itself (bottom right) it only provides a URL to the page it is hosted on, not even HTML code for an iframe (which without moderator/administrator rights to the forum I can't embed anyway).
:tease: :hug:
-
https://vimeo.com/125808077
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http://vimeo.com/119795429
Nice vid. But a part of me is thinking: why not just climb a south face?
-
https://vimeo.com/125808077
:wub:
i liked that
-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t-lhmHqVSh4
-
https://youtu.be/DmxLfn4Pjfs
-
http://vimeo.com/98271325
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Awkward! Nice footage.
-
Have to go to Vimeo for this one as embedding isn't permitted...
DMM climbers from Europe visit North Wales (https://vimeo.com/125436881)
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BzW7hBZPIRE
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"You fucking...."
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L1tBf455jXE
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English 7a looks easy 8)
https://vimeo.com/128008691 (https://vimeo.com/128008691)
-
http://vimeo.com/128337249
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Seriously? I was expecting a 'real men drink Bud' advert at the end.
Is there a cheese thread where this could be moved to?
-
http://vimeo.com/129573348
-
Really enjoyed this.
http://vimeo.com/130035863
-
http://vimeo.com/118938051
http://vimeo.com/129104416
-
A great find by Johnny Brown (https://twitter.com/adam_jb_long/status/608652081138946048)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Z25BKvsN2M
-
8)
-
Really enjoyed this.
http://vimeo.com/130035863
Well I didn't think a film about some ugly polished seepy chossheap like that, featuring unsuccessful attempts and in blatant disregard of the Grit Calling, could ever feature in QCV, but that was actually rather good. Nicely shot and very crisp footage which is appreciated.
-
A great find by Johnny Brown (https://twitter.com/adam_jb_long/status/608652081138946048)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Z25BKvsN2M
Amazing, I will have to show my dad this. It was Chris Jackson and my dad who got FA of Debauchery in the 60's, they used a couple of points of aid, it was then freed by Livesy a few years later. Great route on a great crag.
-
Apart from a bit of cut loose showboating a nice vid of soloing at Joshua Tree
www.epictv.com/media/podcast/will-stanhope-goes-solo-on-the-crack-climbs-of-joshua-tree-%7C-hardliners-ep-3/601485
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I thought this one of Stingray was way better. But in fairness they're both not bad.
http://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/matt-segal-fingerlocks-to-victory-on-stingray-513d-%7C-hardliners-ep-4/601487
-
Really enjoyed this.
http://vimeo.com/130035863
Well I didn't think a film about some ugly polished seepy chossheap like that, featuring unsuccessful attempts and in blatant disregard of the Grit Calling, could ever feature in QCV, but that was actually rather good. Nicely shot and very crisp footage which is appreciated.
two thumbs up. That was one of the best chuffing vids i've seen in a good long while.
-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JdKeEk6sSD0
-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-4E-rw3AP_o
-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4TQR2tyoaXQ&feature=youtu.be&t=1m27s
This is pretty much exactly how most of my days on ice have been. Except for the running with crampons part, I'd never do that.
-
http://vimeo.com/131204847
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UGGGGH.
-
POLLITT:
https://youtu.be/_CG9Lq6yUGk
-
When's the biography out Cofe?
-
What autobiography?
-
https://youtu.be/5U9guQFppdQ
I thought Barrows said that Era Vella was jugs?! :strongbench:
-
We really should have this here. Emily Harrington climbs Golden Gate (in excellent style, in one push starting at the bottom) three years after starting trad. Awesome amounts of commitment and effort on a number of pitches that obviously really challenge her. Great stuff.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ccPYyF-plQY
-
That Emily Harrington vid is ace.
-
Yeah nice footage and nice struggle.
-
2 short films by David Petts about Hajj at Raven Tor and The Terminator at Malham
www.youtube.com/watch?v=-0L_gR85VSc (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-0L_gR85VSc)
www.youtube.com/watch?v=iGDErqI3G-c (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iGDErqI3G-c)
-
Dunno if this has been in here before, but it made me smile... Ondra interspersed with Taylor Swift...
https://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k (https://youtu.be/9AU8fMo8v4k)
-
2 short films by David Petts about Hajj at Raven Tor and The Terminator at Malham
www.youtube.com/watch?v=-0L_gR85VSc (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-0L_gR85VSc)
www.youtube.com/watch?v=iGDErqI3G-c (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iGDErqI3G-c)
Enjoyed these Ted. Thanks for sharing!
-
Ted has a really nice commentating voice ;)
-
Ace Ted! And agreed it's a proper commentating voice you've got there. Might go down nicely with a bit of cricket in the background too?
-
Edit - Posted on wrong thread.
-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t8ePjiqjKYo
Footage of the lead comp in Chamonix, with the classic idiot giving the finger to the camera at 19:52, because yeah he's a rebel and he climbs for freedom and against the system and against us all who watch.
I would like to meet him only to campus what he's projecting since March, then smash his face. Glasses included.
-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pbbvCuIyLoI
In light of Ondra's 2nd ascent, Big UP has released Sharma's first from King Lines.
Shortie but goodie
-
http://assets.nationalgeographic.com/modules-video/assets/ngsEmbeddedVideo.html?guid=0000014e-b78c-dd38-ab4e-ff8dc70d0001# (http://assets.nationalgeographic.com/modules-video/assets/ngsEmbeddedVideo.html?guid=0000014e-b78c-dd38-ab4e-ff8dc70d0001#)
-
Great find cha1n, visually that's one of the best climbing films I've seen
-
Nice, elegant film.
-
http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/video/choronzon-steve-mcclure?current-channel=ambassadors
Watch BMC ambassador Steve mcclure battle the mighty Choronzon (E10). Brand new and exclusive to #BMCTV:
-
Nice. Ace background tune on that, atmospheric and well-bassy.
-
what an amazing looking route, enjoyed that a lot, cheers Pritch
-
Great video, really impressive he did it so quick!
-
Good film, love the top-out.
Ace background tune on that, atmospheric and well-bassy.
I really recognise the style but can't think who the producer is. Anyone know?
-
When was the last time Ste Mac needed to tie his shoelaces?
-
Arnaud has got himself a young padawan... beautiful video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UcQQkAzN65M
-
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3D0Mp0RrQRA
One for the old skool sheffield mafia :2thumbsup:
-
Spent several months working on this film for John Dunne which I suspect was intended to prolong his period as a professional climber. I quite enjoyed making it but in the end, never got paid more than my expenses.
:lol:
-
Bogan climbing featuring the following essential elements:
Crack climbing
Mullets
Singlets
Aussies
Use of the term 'shitfight'
Iron Maiden
https://vimeo.com/137426438
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Strong sales pitch but weak video, would have liked to have a proper video of the route with the same character (and soundtrack).
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:jaw:
http://vimeo.com/138516728
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Very nicely done.
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Top find :thumbsup:
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qOQGk_5wYXA
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https://vimeo.com/138893693
It just keeps going! The Red River Gorge looks amazing, definitely on the hit list.
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For petejh:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BhyOsJgqwkk :punk:
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:jaw:
http://vimeo.com/138516728
am I, as usual, late to the party, or did this guy just do whatever he wanted all over the eastern grit in what iirc was 20 degrees at least, on his own, and climbed near every day and looked like he was having the time of his life?? incredible effort, wonderful film. I presume he is a name.
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:jaw:
http://vimeo.com/138516728
am I, as usual, late to the party, or did this guy just do whatever he wanted all over the eastern grit in what iirc was 20 degrees at least, on his own, and climbed near every day and looked like he was having the time of his life?? incredible effort, wonderful film. I presume he is a name.
If i'm right with the bits and pieces of info I've seen, I think that Wataru Nakajima is the brother of Toru Nakajima, who you might remember came over to the grit at one point and cruised everything he was pointed at
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A nice finale there with White Wand, solo, on sight, as the rain begins to fall. Extraordinary.
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For petejh:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BhyOsJgqwkk :punk:
Holy shit great looking route, slate-like moves on granite. But not a slab!? Don't think my bicep could handle that much abuse but the slabs in the backround at the end of the vid look nice..
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Yeah I tried to find some Pedriza slab videos but they are generally rubbish quality :(
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Is late October generally decent for La Pedriza Fiend?
Thanks.
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But I will try...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OZSZOhEJFTo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oluem2E4BOE
(Not Pedriza but Cavallers is also ace, I'd love to go back)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zmsNqGJPtpA
Shows the style a bit.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WwjGSyZOSmM
As does this. I'm pretty sure I started up this one on an amazing bone dry zero humidity zero degrees centrigrade day....just as a hail blizzard hit.
FWIW the top slab of that F6c+ at Penmaenbach would be 6a in Pedriza, maybe 6a+.
P.S. Late October should be cool enough if it's dry. Look up weather for Manzanares El Real.
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Cheers Matt.. I think :blink:
I'm just going to assume there's a black hole in the grade band between French 6c and 8b+, i.e. all 7s and low 8s aren't any harder than the 6cs - which are nearly impossible - until it suddenly jumps to actually impossible for 99.9999 of people at 8b+.
Otherwise, like a fifth dimension I can't fathom what 8b+ granite slab means.
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I met a Pedriza local in Taghia. He said no one goes there and climb anywhere near their grade. Except Arnaud Petit. He onsighed some low 8s straight away.
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Being Arnaud Petit is cheating though.
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yeah, but it would help in many situations in the mountains
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That grit video is something else...
So many great routes (and beta!) and yes enjoyed the finale. Its made me want to climb White Wand even more now...
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:blink: indeed. I found the grades were approx as follows:
F6a = F6b
F6a+ = F6b+
F6b =F6c
F6b+ = F6c
F6c = F6c
F6c+ = F6c+
F7a = F7a??
Above that seems pretty much like the 5th dimension, yeah.
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Yeah, Toru's older brother, according to Alex Ekins.
http://alexekins.co.uk/toru-nakajima/
Little bro went on holiday elsewhere
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69990
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Jorg Verhoeven climbs The Nose of El Cap. free. Very nicely done. This really needs a British ascent, the hard bits are only short, so would suit a boulderer...
https://youtu.be/VapbvTq8GOE
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:2thumbsup: Very nice vid. The difficulties seems to be concentrated to a few meters.
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Given that he seemed to be in conversation Tommy and Lynn, I wonder why he thought it was ok to have all his gear pre-placed on the hard pitches. I might be being harsh here, but I'm sure all other hard free ascents on the El Cap have placed all (or the majority) on lead? Even the Hubers who are euros do that - although I think they sometimes have draws on some of the pegs/bolts.
Edit: Amazing film though. Watched it on a big screen last night and even my wife was captivated. Impressive video considering it's not some REEL Rock/BigUP/Sender etc blockbuster production.
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Angelo clearly the hero of the story
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Fixed gear is fixed gear. Any ascent with fixed gear in is already tainted, might as well clip a draw on it. That's at least my defence for having draws in on sport redpoints.
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I was a bit disappointed at the amount of fixed junk on The Nose last year (4 months before this ascent). Both hard bits, the Great Roof and Changing Corners, could have been free climbed without placing any gear. I might have used a couple of small aliens as aid but these wouldn't be necessary if you were doing it properly. It's quite possible Verhoeven didn't pre-place any of his own gear. Certainly the fixed junk on the Great Roof traverse looked the much same as it had earlier that year.
The number of stuck cams on the easier pitches was also a surprise. They must make things a little more convenient for speed teams who can take mainly quickdraws and just clip the insitu gear.
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Interesting! I've never had the chance to go to Yosemite yet, but already ten years ago a friend told me that you only need a few cams, half a set of nuts and a bunch of quickdraws to do the regular route on Half dome (different now... I know...).
Would you say that someone who'd be reasonably comfortable on mandatory 6b/c-slabs and 5.11-cracks could do the nose with one set of friends, one set of nuts and clipping fixed junk for the rest?
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Fixed gear is fixed gear. Any ascent with fixed gear in is already tainted, might as well clip a draw on it. That's at least my defence for having draws in on sport redpoints.
Do you know Angelo as well? Really cool guy with one of those lives that you kinda wish you'd been able to live a little of too.
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alas, I never met the man
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Would you say that someone who'd be reasonably comfortable on mandatory 6b/c-slabs and 5.11-cracks could do the nose with one set of friends, one set of nuts and clipping fixed junk for the rest?
They'd probably be OK with that kind of rack, though the better test might be how happy are they leaving 10m between pieces on 5.9+ cracks rather than how comfortable they are on 5.11. Perhaps singles down to Red and doubles of the small sizes?
This team should be treating the route as a long free-climb, capable of freeing all bar ~100m, in a day of course. Willingness to run it out and capacity to free-climb can deteriorate after 15 hours though, that second Red might be reassuring on the final pitches even though the grades suggest they should be cruising.
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Would you say that someone who'd be reasonably comfortable on mandatory 6b/c-slabs and 5.11-cracks could do the nose with one set of friends, one set of nuts and clipping fixed junk for the rest?
They'd probably be OK with that kind of rack, though the better test might be how happy are they leaving 10m between pieces on 5.9+ cracks rather than how comfortable they are on 5.11. Perhaps singles down to Red and doubles of the small sizes?
This team should be treating the route as a long free-climb, capable of freeing all bar ~100m, in a day of course. Willingness to run it out and capacity to free-climb can deteriorate after 15 hours though, that second Red might be reassuring on the final pitches even though the grades suggest they should be cruising.
Rock & Ice Danger Zones: The Nose - Accidents On El Cap's Most Popular Route (http://www.rockandice.com/climbing-accidents/danger-zones-the-nose-accidents-on-el-caps-most-popular-route)
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Sasha DiGiulian & Carlo Traversi climbing Magic Mushroom on the N.Face of the Eiger.
Stunning photography, commentary cheesier than a ripe Gruyre. Bafflingly no mention that it was the driest and warmest summer in 150 years (http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=43082) or that they regularly nipped back down to Grindenwald via the train for afternoon tea and cakes!
https://youtu.be/06V46CUFsB8
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https://vimeo.com/142224011
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Thanks Cheque, it's not quality filming but there's a quality battle at around 14.00 with girly screaming for those time starved folk. He was trying so hard :weakbench:
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girly screaming for those time starved folk.
It's no wonder there are no women on UKB :-[
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Is that sexist?
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I'm never quite sure what to make of DWS... part of me is totally inspired by just soloing up hard limestone on fantastic looking holds - no ropes, no faff - just moving up the rock.
The other part of me would be shit scared :D
I also have 60 seconds of stamina.
I would get wet alot...
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I think you'd suprise yourself, it's the most fun you can have with your pants on. Gritlad off here has got the stamina of an asthmatic pug but he had a great time. Research trip next September?
Edit: I think Shark wrote a blog about this you'd be interested in
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Don't listen to Guy, DWS is absolutely terrifying stuff. I've had a couple of occasions of being on top trad form (so enough stamina, ability to commit above big falls, and decent rock reading), tried DWS and shat myself inside out :sick: :ohmy:
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I hate scary trad, but had loads of fun with DWS in Lulworth and Berry Head. I found the approaches hideous though - not at all happy with even super easy soloing above death landings. (The step down in the path at Berry Head is awful.) love to have a go sometime at doing it from a boat, bet that would be ace.
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Alex megos on modified in the Frankenjura.
He seems to be trying fairly hard from 3:30 to the top.
https://vimeo.com/142499746
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Nice Saint Antonin video here: https://vimeo.com/143585778
Some great crags around this area just North of Toulouse.
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Don't listen to Guy, DWS is absolutely terrifying stuff. I've had a couple of occasions of being on top trad form (so enough stamina, ability to commit above big falls, and decent rock reading), tried DWS and shat myself inside out :sick: :ohmy:
Shambles.
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Finally....!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=piUlp66-kHs
For Petejh etc etc.
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Just been watching that. I know it's greasy but it looks like he has to pull a bit, which is not an encouraging thought.
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Caff habla en espaol! That's what I'm most psyched about.
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That's great! Caff can (almost) always find something to bone down, it doesn't mean you have to.
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...but over there you do. Coin edge crystals and micro-nipples. Some good expressions in that footage :)
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Caff habla en espaol!
:lol:
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Ooops. Apparently there are two videos floating around of Caff crushing Pedriza slabs. This is the other one:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EjI21A8ud5A
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Really enjoyed that second one, great stuff!
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Yeah! 4:30 to 6:10 is what it's all about....
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Caff habla en espaol! That's what I'm most psyched about.
Which crimp is he referring to though, the 12th?!
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https://vimeo.com/142224011
Just watched this. You boys are dancefloor killers. Great film.
EDIT: Also needs a NSFW warning...
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+1
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I genuinely thought I'd censored it all out, can a mod please add the nsfw tab please?
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There's nothing on display I don't think but still, watching someone take their kecks off halfway up a rock face whilst in the office is a tad strange!
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https://vimeo.com/145158761
Some annoying editing techniques, but shows some of the great rock and routes at Boven.
Pt 1 is Rocklands - not sure if anyone can endure another vid from there!
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There's nothing offensive but there is a little more tallywacker showing than my standard coffee break vids......
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CBMreRzvDA0
Beat Kammerlander attempt to redpoint Kampfzone (8c, 8a+ obligatory)
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:lol:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uw0ao0AZ-lg
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yn7ocg9o8VI
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well that was disappointing.
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http://vimeo.com/147990527
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This is a pretty good story/idea. Looks like a route on Mlaham Upper Tier mind!
http://www.petzl.com/en/Sport/video/Chris-Sharma-travels-back-to-the-future-in-Mouries--France#.Vmiyl0qQGrV
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This is a pretty good story/idea. Looks like a route on Mlaham Upper Tier mind!
http://www.petzl.com/en/Sport/video/Chris-Sharma-travels-back-to-the-future-in-Mouries--France#.Vmiyl0qQGrV
Got Kingsnorth written all over it
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That Agent of Cool looks bloody amazing doesn't it?!
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Ooops. Apparently there are two videos floating around of Caff crushing Pedriza slabs. This is the other one:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EjI21A8ud5A
Caff climbing a wall of white noise.
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This is a pretty good story/idea. Looks like a route on Mlaham Upper Tier mind!
http://www.petzl.com/en/Sport/video/Chris-Sharma-travels-back-to-the-future-in-Mouries--France#.Vmiyl0qQGrV
So, much better rock than the rest of Malham then. Nice video. I had one day at Mouries, it was a cool crag, the F6bs were nails!!
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http://vimeo.com/148345028
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yn2tHcZEnF0
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This is a pretty good story/idea. Looks like a route on Mlaham Upper Tier mind!
http://www.petzl.com/en/Sport/video/Chris-Sharma-travels-back-to-the-future-in-Mouries--France#.Vmiyl0qQGrV
I like it! It would have been better for the storyline if Sharma didn't make it look like a warm-up though...
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Could easily be at home in bouldering videos as its a mixed bag....
http://www.boxmonkey.tv/
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Quality soundtrack...
http://vimeo.com/150396216
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^^^ great stuff, especially with the sound off. Smooth ascent but looks ridiculously burly, and the crux seems to be getting your fingers out of sharp fingerlocks, eeek.
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The last time I ran into Romain Pagnoux was almost two years ago in St Gry. He climbed an 8b+ with his right foot in a trainer. Since then he has done an operation to immobilise the ankle and can apparently climb quite hard again. Very nice film showing him on Internet on the legendary old school Pne Haute in Valle d'Aure, and on a project in Bielsa. Parental Advisory: Some hiking to the crags, some horn playing.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fkl9PZO9iQU
Available in 4k
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Horn playing? Jesus. Gonna be a tough watch.
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Pne Haute, that's an excellent venue, takes me back, dossing at the crag, jumpers for goalposts....thanks for posting.
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Pne Haute, that's an excellent venue, takes me back, dossing at the crag, jumpers for goalposts....thanks for posting.
So it turns out of been driving past this crag for the past 25 years! Or through Hches anyway. It was only when I got into climbing that I noticed some of the rocks high up on the hills in the past few years. Grandparents live in a little village past Arreau. Amazing, must take a rope next time I go and see them!
and teach Pappy to belay :whip:
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Very nice film showing him on Internet on the legendary old school Pne Haute in Valle d'Aure, and on a project in Bielsa.
Pretty good english subtiles for the non french speakers among us (myself included)
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http://vimeo.com/152007678
Looks good.
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Warning: Contains solder-fixing cam trigger wire footage :chair:
OTOH, multiple 5.13 onsights, 10/10 WB etc.
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I don't think I've seen these on here before, so here's the first of a pair of videos with Don Whillans, Chris Bonnington and others in Patagonia:
https://youtu.be/bqH674fXqzY
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brilliant.. master of understatements abound.
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I only have an image of Don being a drunk, fat grumpy old man - quite a contrast to see him in his prime.
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Beautiful arete. Nice that the problem involves climbing from one side to the other.
http://vimeo.com/153927475
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awful editing /letterboxing tho...
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Hey guys,
I noticed Slackline mentioned my climbing videos project - www.boxmonkey.tv (http://www.boxmonkey.tv). Hope you guys have been enjoying it.
Slackline said something about the site being a "mixed bag" - so to make it easier I've now split the catalogue by climbing style - bouldering, sport, trad, big wall etc.
Hopefully that should make it easier to find stuff to watch! Any other comments welcome.
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That Oman video is pretty nice, the stuff on the giant boulders looks well cool.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b3Piv7FAqZw
Lots of Ardrspach action. Get in.
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:2thumbsup:
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vJtnDcIJ0Ig
Legendary spanish climber Carlos Logroo repeats an 8c+ roof in Alquzar near Rodellar.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b3Piv7FAqZw
Lots of Ardrspach action. Get in.
Cool film. Czech/German Sandstone is one of those places I'd sort of love to go, and yet would probably find terrifyimg and desperate = love to have been?
Thought it funny how you aren't allowed to use metal pro and yet he was carrying a wire brush!!
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I'd really love to go back having had two trips there. The lines are just so inspiring. The climbing? Mildly terrifying!
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Yeah I thought it was quite scary too! Me and Pete went on a visit as "guests" to festival there. On the first route that Pete went on (that the locals suggested was a good warm up) he got to about halfway up and was absolutely puffing out of his arse - which seemed surprising considering he was doing it as a warm up and first time placing knots.... Then the host leant over to me and quietly said, "that is a very good effort... this route has never been onsighted before".....
Fucking sandbaggers!
The next day after that one, we asked for an easier warm-up. Half a route later I was looking at deck-out/100ft ground sweeper and not that happy on quite a tricky route. When we got back to the hut, they just laughed at me and said how one of their friends had decked on this route and luckily survived.
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I've been to Elbsandstein in Germany once and to Teplice/Adrspach once. Would love to go back, but the chance of getting my better half to go there again is between null and zero.
The climbing is really good, but you have to like quests. One of the line I was dreaming of coming back to was the reasonably bolted Tsunami in Teplice. It's only 7b+ or so as well. Major, major line. I just found out that it has had exactly one onsight ascent. By Adam Ondra, who found it hard to onsight.
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Me and Pete went on a visit as "guests" to festival there.
This one by any chance?
http://vimeo.com/106265007
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Enjoyed the cave route, nice little film.
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This one by any chance?
Yeah that's right! I'd forgotten that video existed. That particular offwidth roof crack that features in it was about the only proper well protected route that felt not in the slightest risky. Small falls onto bomber knots.
I think Pete went back this year and finished it off. Said it was probably HVS 5b at Ramshaw. About E4 anywhere else ;-)
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I found that route Hlaska (7min in in the Wideboyzky film) to be absolutely desperate. Stupidly tried it at the end of the last day of the visit. The beta I had was that it's better to fall to the left. Well done to whomever did the first ascent in the early 50s.
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Woods and Graham in Flatanger (https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/video/Woods-And-Graham-in-Flatanger#.VsTMM4ReBE5)
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Good stuff that! Would like to have seen more climbing footage as what there was was inspiring (I like the alternating bit near the end). Thor's Hammer does sound amazing!
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looks so cool
To anyone who's been: Would a mid 7 chummer have a good trip here?
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gme seemed to think so, said there were other good crags around the area.
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Ben Dover gave me some details on this and some topos too. It seems there is a good amount of mid-grade stuff but it's more vertical and also seperate from the main cave.
P.S. Count me in if you want a partner :-*
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Ben Dover?
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Yeah, he's mates with Phil McCavity.
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ah yeah, big Phil
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Davidson, that's who I was thinking of....
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https://vimeo.com/156148454
:bow:
Amazing line, film is great.
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That is fucking great.
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Ben Dover gave me some details on this and some topos too. It seems there is a good amount of mid-grade stuff but it's more vertical and also seperate from the main cave.
P.S. Count me in if you want a partner :-*
There is stuff in the main cave in the 6s and plenty in the 7s. More than enough to keep you happy for a few weeks unless you are the type who just wants to onsight at a specific grade. If the later you would run out in a week or so.
The place is class and the lower grade routes are as good as the higher. If your onsighting in the low to mid sevens and redpointing in the mid 7s to low 8s you will be a very happy camper.
There is a bunch of folks from Sheffield heading out in June for 3 weeks, me included (but only for 10 days unfortunately).
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You'd think Daniel Woods would remember that he'd actually "given sport climbing a try" before- he did a 9a+ that time as well so it's not like it was insignificant.
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Woods and Graham in Flatanger (https://www.petzl.com/US/en/Sport/video/Woods-And-Graham-in-Flatanger#.VsTMM4ReBE5)
You had me at "kneebar paradise".
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FifbtlBmiK8&app=desktop
Thought this was ace... but that might be because I flipping love Mt Arapiles...
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You'd think Daniel Woods would remember that he'd actually "given sport climbing a try" before- he did a 9a+ that time as well so it's not like it was insignificant.
Hey! you there with the truth! fuck off and leave me with my hyperbole
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I thought the same when woods was talking.. Its not like he's been on extended trips to ceuse, loup, red river, rodellar, spent months at rifle and fortress of solitude... He's basically never been sport climbing really.
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https://www.reelhouse.org/hotaches/redemption/purchase/rent (https://www.reelhouse.org/hotaches/redemption/purchase/rent)
Redemption available.
Rewatched this. Hype / controversy / hysteria / contrition about his grading and WOL still annoys me. Too much stupid mis-understanding of the UK grading system from other people, too much grovelling from James (e.g. repeats of the promise weren't a slightly different style, they used enough pads to make a big difference with a shit landing, Rhapsody is still an eliminate even if a spectacular and great one, that is obvious from the footage and sonnie's ascents, incidentally the only previous repeats were the UK's best sport climber and the world's strongest trad climber ehhhh). Footage of him pissing Rhapsody is still great.
Take a very good, strong, experienced trad climber, give them a full rack of micros sliders etc, and set them loose on Rhapsody and Walk Of Life. Which one do they stand more chance of 1. Onsighting successfully, and 2. Surviving / escaping successfully if they fail. Bet it's not 2 fucking grades in it.
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http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/videos/resurrection-wilton-4/
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Cheers youth, that's my dinner viewing sorted.
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Brilliant what a great film.
:2thumbsup:
A trip down memory lane seeing Wilton's in all their glory.
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Well put together and high quality composition there. The intro sequence is brilliant and the general purpose of the film is good - although the quality of the film looks slightly better than some of the subject matter! Still, it would tempt me back.
One criticism is the music is waaay louder than the voices, I had to keep turning it up and down.
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Well put together and high quality composition there. The intro sequence is brilliant and the general purpose of the film is good - although the quality of the film looks slightly better than some of the subject matter! Still, it would tempt me back.
One criticism is the music is waaay louder than the voices, I had to keep turning it up and down.
Thanks Fiend! Glad you enjoyed it :)
Yeah I know about the sound, it bugged me too... I didn't have the knowledge or software to deal with OMF files in time - learning curve!
PS: do it! The quarries miss you :P
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:punk: :thumbsup:
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Nice video :icon_beerchug:
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Nice one rginns. :thumbsup: Shows how much more important a fresh, interesting story and relatable characters are to a good climbing film than sponsored heroes and world class locations. I love how you've got the old guys contradicting each other!
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fucking ace
anyone tried to prosecute you for using a drone near a public road?
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http://vimeo.com/158170026
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:o
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vk4YrOtVTLg (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=vk4YrOtVTLg)
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Was that Nathan on Master's? Lanky bastard doing that top move like that! Good effort though... a might fine flash and rather impressive endurance hanging around that long. I'd have been pumped out of my brain.
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Yeah, that's Nathan. Despite being able to reach that way (just!), not sure that's the optimum beta for him on the top move as he only got the jug open on 3 fingers and said he was close to falling coming in to match :lol:
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Such a good effort from you and Nathan Steve!!
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A bit of old skool ....
https://vimeo.com/60151298
Having heard much about this vid over the years finally managed to track it down online.
A few well kent faces in there ....
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That brings it back! I managed to avoid being in that film, luckily. ;)
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Good to see Chris bouldering again. Although he doesn't seem to successfully climb anything - Paul Robinson does though!
http://youtu.be/Yoxg-nc-UpA
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Its a bit soft-core-pr0n-like but probably belongs here:
http://www.over-caffeinated sugary drink company.com/de/de/adventure/stories/1331782865858/alexander-megos-formula-episode-1
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Master's Edge - cool stuff, love the un-practised sketching and faffing.
El Bon Combat - looks ace, would like to see the full thing. Rock looks cool.
Bouldering then - looks nice rock, kinda sandstone with limestone weathering? Chris does okay for a 9b/+ punter...
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This one about James Pearson climbing Le Bronx.
https://www.facebook.com/145161830635/videos/10153399379020636/
Thought it was a cracker.
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That's a sweet run-out
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That's great
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Cool video despite some choppy edits early on - love the footage of the crux section.
Music was appalling tho.
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From other channel, Tom Randall climbing with Richie Patterson commentary :clap2:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HDMvlKXflBI
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Cool video despite some choppy edits early on - love the footage of the crux section.
As a viewer how would you prefer to see the footage of the choppy start, completely edit free or with an alternative method?
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Richie's commentary is so good :-)
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Cool video despite some choppy edits early on - love the footage of the crux section.
As a viewer how would you prefer to see the footage of the choppy start, completely edit free or with an alternative method?
Good question Guy. I would say as edit free as possible, and if there needs to be edits due to prolonged gear placing, shaking out, etc etc, keep them as smooth as possible i.e. having the climber restarting climbing from as close a position to before the edit.
In that video, there is some chopping starting at 0:24, around 0:48 it is really bad, I find this hard to watch as it's jarring on the eyes AND it misses out actual climbing. Okay so some people might want a shorter edit, but I'm sure however many seconds was chopped out then could have been fitted in without breaking the 4 minute mark.
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Cool video despite some choppy edits early on - love the footage of the crux section.
As a viewer how would you prefer to see the footage of the choppy start, completely edit free or with an alternative method?
Good question Guy. I would say as edit free as possible, and if there needs to be edits due to prolonged gear placing, shaking out, etc etc, keep them as smooth as possible i.e. having the climber restarting climbing from as close a position to before the edit.
In that video, there is some chopping starting at 0:24, around 0:48 it is really bad, I find this hard to watch as it's jarring on the eyes AND it misses out actual climbing. Okay so some people might want a shorter edit, but I'm sure however many seconds was chopped out then could have been fitted in without breaking the 4 minute mark.
It's a subject I've often thought about as I caught some flak from an EpicTV bod for using choppy edits once or twice "it makes people think the player is faulty". The ideal is, like you've stated, to cut to as close a position as possible or another angle but this is often just not available.
If a climber got to a resting position and you got a few seconds of shake then perhaps a cutaway to scenery or the belayer then back to the climber setting off, would this feel more pleasing to the eyes/mind? Also, if edit length is a constraint would you rather have less of the climbing for less editing?
In this case, I liked the cuts on the cam placements as it quickly showed he was building a nest before the run-out. The cuts you mentioned did seem to be mid-move yeah.
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https://www.facebook.com/145161830635/videos/10153399379020636/
Become French or become one of the best climbers of all times, are both things that require their time.
In this great video by Pietro Porro & Francisco Taranto Jr, La Sportiva ambassador James Pearson explain you why.
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Cool video despite some choppy edits early on - love the footage of the crux section.
As a viewer how would you prefer to see the footage of the choppy start, completely edit free or with an alternative method?
Good question Guy. I would say as edit free as possible, and if there needs to be edits due to prolonged gear placing, shaking out, etc etc, keep them as smooth as possible i.e. having the climber restarting climbing from as close a position to before the edit.
In that video, there is some chopping starting at 0:24, around 0:48 it is really bad, I find this hard to watch as it's jarring on the eyes AND it misses out actual climbing. Okay so some people might want a shorter edit, but I'm sure however many seconds was chopped out then could have been fitted in without breaking the 4 minute mark.
It's a subject I've often thought about as I caught some flak from an EpicTV bod for using choppy edits once or twice "it makes people think the player is faulty". The ideal is, like you've stated, to cut to as close a position as possible or another angle but this is often just not available.
If a climber got to a resting position and you got a few seconds of shake then perhaps a cutaway to scenery or the belayer then back to the climber setting off, would this feel more pleasing to the eyes/mind? Also, if edit length is a constraint would you rather have less of the climbing for less editing?
In this case, I liked the cuts on the cam placements as it quickly showed he was building a nest before the run-out. The cuts you mentioned did seem to be mid-move yeah.
When working on single camera TV shows, the trick was to quickly zoom in on occasion to grab a few seconds of a close up shot, that could be used in the edit to get smooth cuts and still be able to edit down the video.
The cuts in the video above are particularly bad because the angle of the shot doesn't change.
Working with one camera is always a bit of a ballache, and it's a toss up between wanting a single usable shot of the whole scene, or having different shots you can actually edit with.
Taking the Family Man video as an example, it's likely that they knew they were only going to end up with a 4 minute video at the end of it, so it's pointless going for the single take. If it were me, whilst he was placing the gear, I'd have quickly zoomed in, grabbing shots of gear on harness, cams being placed etc. Which could then have been used to get a much smoother cut down version of the nest building.
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Cool video despite some choppy edits early on - love the footage of the crux section.
As a viewer how would you prefer to see the footage of the choppy start, completely edit free or with an alternative method?
Good question Guy. I would say as edit free as possible, and if there needs to be edits due to prolonged gear placing, shaking out, etc etc, keep them as smooth as possible i.e. having the climber restarting climbing from as close a position to before the edit.
In that video, there is some chopping starting at 0:24, around 0:48 it is really bad, I find this hard to watch as it's jarring on the eyes AND it misses out actual climbing. Okay so some people might want a shorter edit, but I'm sure however many seconds was chopped out then could have been fitted in without breaking the 4 minute mark.
It's a subject I've often thought about as I caught some flak from an EpicTV bod for using choppy edits once or twice "it makes people think the player is faulty". The ideal is, like you've stated, to cut to as close a position as possible or another angle but this is often just not available.
If a climber got to a resting position and you got a few seconds of shake then perhaps a cutaway to scenery or the belayer then back to the climber setting off, would this feel more pleasing to the eyes/mind? Also, if edit length is a constraint would you rather have less of the climbing for less editing?
In this case, I liked the cuts on the cam placements as it quickly showed he was building a nest before the run-out. The cuts you mentioned did seem to be mid-move yeah.
When working on single camera TV shows, the trick was to quickly zoom in on occasion to grab a few seconds of a close up shot, that could be used in the edit to get smooth cuts and still be able to edit down the video.
The cuts in the video above are particularly bad because the angle of the shot doesn't change.
Working with one camera is always a bit of a ballache, and it's a toss up between wanting a single usable shot of the whole scene, or having different shots you can actually edit with.
Taking the Family Man video as an example, it's likely that they knew they were only going to end up with a 4 minute video at the end of it, so it's pointless going for the single take. If it were me, whilst he was placing the gear, I'd have quickly zoomed in, grabbing shots of gear on harness, cams being placed etc. Which could then have been used to get a much smoother cut down version of the nest building.
That's really good advice, thanks
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2PGuMx_Ds-I
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:tumble:
fucking ace
anyone tried to prosecute you for using a drone near a public road?
Thanks Lagers! Luckily not! Our was pretty quiet early morning though... :P
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SxuSCtm2htA
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Have we had this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qA8jiMLgR-g
???
I don't think I'll ever get bored of footage of that particular line. Such a nice bit of rock in a quirky location. I wonder if there is an E2/3 version at the same crag??
Also hardest female trad ascent ever??
Also I like the peg madness in the foreground at 4:20...
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Yeah that's an awesome video. I love how it's the town in the background at the beginning but as she climbs higher it's replaced by the snowy mountains.
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Old but gold.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-PsXKda6JU
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Old but gold.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-PsXKda6JU
The best climbing clip
"I'm the fucking best!"
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Old but gold.
The best climbing clip
"I'm the fucking best!"
Amazing
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Have we had this?
http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/videos/mina-meets-godzilla/
some great footage of the crux sequence
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Old but gold.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-PsXKda6JU
Oh my god, I had somehow missed this. Fucking amazing!
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Old but gold.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-PsXKda6JU
The best!
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Mega footage that. Think Barrows is trying this now. Looks scary..
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http://vimeo.com/151439063
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http://vimeo.com/151439063
really good footage, ball achingly pretentious narration, Jesus. I saw a flat-peak cap in near the start and saw all I needed to see.
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ball achingly pretentious narration, Jesus.
:wank:
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What a brilliant, honest little film. The narrative totally chimed with me. Guy, I don't think you actually know what pretentious means!? Either that or you failed to see two guys in the middle of nowhere on a massive, loose big wall.
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What a brilliant, honest little film. The narrative totally chimed with me. Guy, I don't think you actually know what pretentious means!? Either that or you failed to see two guys in the middle of nowhere on a massive, loose big wall.
I'm totally with T_B on this one - I think its refreshing to see someone talking openly about their doubts and fears, not wanting to be there, being scared (and yes, of course people have done that before). We do this incredible activity that can bring huge rewards and massive psychological pressures, all set in some of the most beautiful places in the world, but, hey, let's not talk about any of the emotions that might provoke in case we come off as whiney or pretentious.
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What a brilliant, honest little film. The narrative totally chimed with me. Guy, I don't think you actually know what pretentious means!? Either that or you failed to see two guys in the middle of nowhere on a massive, loose big wall.
Course I do Tom but fair enough, I couldn't get past the tone, you could and had a better experience for it.
What a brilliant, honest little film. The narrative totally chimed with me. Guy, I don't think you actually know what pretentious means!? Either that or you failed to see two guys in the middle of nowhere on a massive, loose big wall.
I'm totally with T_B on this one - I think its refreshing to see someone talking openly about their doubts and fears, not wanting to be there, being scared (and yes, of course people have done that before). We do this incredible activity that can bring huge rewards and massive psychological pressures, all set in some of the most beautiful places in the world, but, hey, let's not talk about any of the emotions that might provoke in case we come off as whiney or pretentious.
It would have been great to have that message resonate like it has with you but the style of narration popped any bubble that was being built up, doesn't that ever happen to you?
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Of course, not everything works for everyone. Apologies if my post looked like an attack Guy. Perhaps I was a little intemperate (and have already been puntered for my troubles) but I was feeling frustrated or irked or something that the makers seemed to be getting put down in a way I didn't think they deserved. Being unashamedly pretentious, pretension isn't a word I like very much; I'm not saying its what you were trying to do, but its often you used to close down discussions or to ridicule.
And if I'm honest I still don't really get it about the tone, which seems pretty straightforward and unadorned. But as we've said, we all react to things differently.
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Of course, not everything works for everyone. Apologies if my post looked like an attack Guy. Perhaps I was a little intemperate (and have already been puntered for my troubles) but I was feeling frustrated or irked or something that the makers seemed to be getting put down in a way I didn't think they deserved. Being unashamedly pretentious, pretension isn't a word I like very much; I'm not saying its what you were trying to do, but its often you used to close down discussions or to ridicule.
And if I'm honest I still don't really get it about the tone, which seems pretty straightforward and unadorned. But as we've said, we all react to things differently.
I understand, and you're right it was just a drive-by post of opinion that didn't lend itself to further conversation, I should've used a different/more words. That said, I don't think I can describe the tone thing, maybe it's cultural and you've had more experience of America to hear it as genuine and unadorned (great word)
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Perhaps I was a little intemperate (and have already been puntered for my troubles).
You weren't, and Habrich puntering you (snide? wtf?) was bullshit.
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+1. I see no snideness. If anything habrich should be puntered for his "irritating and whiney" comment.
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Wow. I never bothered watching that when it popped up on social media but I thought it was really good. Some of the shots were beautiful and the honesty was touching.
Glad Dave made a full recovery. Stuff of nightmares that.
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I can see both sides. Yeah, it's nice to see a film look at the side of things we don't often hear about, but they were a bit annoying. Plus a feeling that having had a bit of a mediocre trip they got back to stonerhipsterville and realised they could recoup by making a like, sensitive, honest film about it. Dude.
Which broaches the same issue as the climbing today thread: we're more accustomed to films celebrating excellence, but increasingly we're getting everyman stuff. We're used to watching this stuff for simple inspiration, not to confront awkward questions about how much we'd actually enjoy realising our dreams...
But I'm a born cynic, the good outweighed the bad for me, I'm sure we'd get on if we shared a basecamp. Plus as I get older I'm increasingly impressed by anyone actually finishing anything creative. Whether the content is right for me at this point in my life is a secondary concern.
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Plus as I get older I'm increasingly impressed by anyone actually finishing anything creative.
Sounds about right.
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Alexander Megos climbing First Round First Minute (http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/climbing/video-alexander-megos-climbing-first-round-first-minute-at-margalef-in-spain.html)
Makes it look piss.
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Yeah amazing how he just seems to float up almost effortlessly. His pacing is bang on as well he flows through all the sequences quick enough to not lose momentum but not so quick that he loses accuracy. Was expecting to switch it off after 30 secs but was too mesmerised!
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Amazing stuff that footage of Megos. In case you can't tell how hard it is here's Sharma making it look decidedly more tricky.
http://youtu.be/JCqe96jtExU
Sent from my XT1039 using Tapatalk
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I was thinking of the exact same video - comparing with Megos on the section from the left hand mono onwards, absolutely paths it!
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Looked like he went over to a different hold to me, as if Sharma was still trying a duff sequence in that film.
Still, Megos was certainly moving better than he did at Stanage.
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Looked like he went over to a different hold to me
Didn't know you'd done it, good effort!
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Knob.
Great climbing in that clip. Boy done well.
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That's liquid climbing
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Yeah, great to see the Carlos Garcia interview. For a hyper-hypothetical solo I wouldn't be too worried about holds breaking on Fiesta, but more that someone would have smeared sunscreen all over the vertical crux pitch.
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What jwi said. I can imagine soloing the top three or four pitches, but the idea of soloing the crux pitch gives me the heebee geebees.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I fell off on the first 6b pitch of fiesta due to breaking a large foot hold off that looked very solid. Fuck soloing that shit
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I love how, when Edu says he would never consider soloing it, Garcia just asks "Why?" with a completely straight face.
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Just saw this which got me pretty excited!
https://youtu.be/psUV0gYOpVc
Great to see some footage of Pembroke onsight climbing. Grezelda and Knock Yourself Out! look well good!
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Onsighting is gooooood :2thumbsup:
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Just saw this which got me pretty excited!
https://youtu.be/psUV0gYOpVc
Great to see some footage of Pembroke onsight climbing. Grezelda and Knock Yourself Out! look well good!
Ningo!
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I have a soft spot for Teplice
http://www.epictv.com/videos/film-makers/czech-climbing-channels-epic-series/605007
Alas, you have to click through. It's worth it if you like to watch people suffer on long runouts on sandstone
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I have a soft spot for Teplice
http://www.epictv.com/videos/film-makers/czech-climbing-channels-epic-series/605007
Alas, you have to click through. It's worth it if you like to watch people suffer on long runouts on sandstone
From Adam, "there are some sequences which I did abseil and found no holds. Then I do it again after a few years and there they are, the holds, I've found them". This is a really nice feeling you get climbing whatever the grade :yes:
Love to hear the older pioneers point of view in interviews
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https://vimeo.com/170461426
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Disapointing lack of trad in that video! Plus no footage of Serpentine!?
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Dude's a legend, inspiring seeing him travelling around with 2 kids.
Climbing starts at 4:52, route looks quality.
https://vimeo.com/170496892
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Mega, even with the clipping action replays! Great looking route.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IqNfLGjyRQc
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I don't think episode 2 has been put up yet..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ZWu249qQlU
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https://vimeo.com/groups/climbing/videos/170987470 (https://vimeo.com/groups/climbing/videos/170987470)
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Scraping the barrel a bit ^^
Bad music, weird radial blur filter, not much editing, fairly standard Spanish sport crag. meh. Must try harder.
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Something a bit different...
Home Turf : The Needles (https://www.jauntvr.com/title/2bcc9fd191)
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Cheers slackers. It was tentatively on the list for September, now it's firmly on the "must visit" list :-)
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Nice one. First time I've seen a view of it showing some of the easier looking climbing, what you mostly see pictures of is the hard stuff. Even more gutted the road was closed due to snow when I visited now!
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:-[ The first time I watched that video I thought (hmm, jerky and a bit low-res, what's the fuss". OH, it's VR!! Scroll around haha!
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Yeah, not quite sure how they do that, esp with the drone footage?
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(http://www.roadtovr.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/sphericam2-360-4k1.jpg)
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Ah cool (assuming that's a photo of the camera mounted on the drome, not your new Anal Intruder).
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:tumble:
Ah cool (assuming that's a photo of the camera mounted on the drome, not your new Anal Intruder).
It would quite a immersive experience if it was the latter...
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Cheers slackers. It was tentatively on the list for September, now it's firmly on the "must visit" list :-)
Nice film, the technology is getting there.
The Needles are a must-visit world-class venue. That part of the Sierras has a fantastic atmosphere. I've only had 3 days there (bafflingly brief) and didn't do a less than excellent route. Soloing the long 5.8 that goes up the spine of The Magician counts as some of the most fun I've had climbing.
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4 weeks is starting to a look a bit tight haha!
Longs Peak
Black Canyon of the Gunnison
Incredible Hulk
Needles.
Need to stop researching climbing trips and start researching tidal turbine condition monitoring...
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That looks like two separate trips. Enough to do round Sierras for a month plus, enough to do in Colorado for a month plus. And a lot of driving in between (Ibex would be a great place to break the journey for a day or so though!)
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(Ibex would be a great place to break the journey for a day or so though!)
Even better, Notch Peak (turn off opposite Ibex).
(https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/6c/NotchPeakFromSawtooth.JPG)
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That looks like two separate trips. Enough to do round Sierras for a month plus, enough to do in Colorado for a month plus. And a lot of driving in between (Ibex would be a great place to break the journey for a day or so though!)
Land in Denver, Fly out of San Francisco innit!
Ibex & Notch Peak upgraded to "Tentative". Just checked and it seems Ibex could be a bit scorchio in mid September (which is also why we'll probably skip Red Rocks & Indian creek this time)
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f2wI6A3pZGQ
Climbing starts at 1m25
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ei-_AsKyEDI
Climbing starts at 2m12
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Oa2uXh7LbU
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Walking down that Mount Rebei gorge is a great rest day activity for anyone in the area. Earlier this year we watched three incompetents struggle to haul/aid/jumar up the first pitch. We speculated for a while they must be some bumblies until we were told who it actually was when we bumped into a camera woman on the way out!
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Was climbing with Zaff once and he didn't have a harness so used a couple of slings, this is probably safer albeit a little more complex...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N70pZKq6LK4
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Sender Films : Progression Extras (1h 20min) (https://vimeo.com/ondemand/38737/128647607)
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wow good find. that looks like a mistake. guess not?
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:shrug: I've downloaded a copy (https://rg3.github.io/youtube-dl/) for future viewing.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ugS2YRV0PLs
----
The Sharma route is really totally different in style from the other routes in Montrebei. Even the least adventurous routes have funky gear placements and sometimes quite marginal fixed gear. I can understand why some locals are pissed off.
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wow good find. that looks like a mistake. guess not?
I only see the trailers on vimeo ( using my phone). Does the whole thing play when it's imbedded?
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wow good find. that looks like a mistake. guess not?
I only see the trailers on vimeo ( using my phone). Does the whole thing play when it's imbedded?
The "trailer" when you view this page from where you can buy Progression (https://vimeo.com/ondemand/38737/128647607) is 1h20min of the Extras from the DVD.
It plays on the web-page fine (just checked from a desktop browser). I've not tried embedding it (couldn't actually work out how to). You can use this (https://rg3.github.com/youtube-dl/) to download it.
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Charlie Woodburn climbing Central Buttress, Scafell, and musing on the first ascent. CB was an early example of red-pointing, trained for with intensive bouldering, worked over a two year period including abseil inspection, top-rope practice of sections, and beta memorised by drawing the crux moves. A timely film given Herford's death 100 years ago this year.
https://youtu.be/nrNmcSYtwaA
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http://www.over-caffeinated sugary drink company.tv/video/AP-1MQQXUJJD1W11/jumbo-love
The story of Ethan on Jumbo Love really resonates with me, and this video does a great job of presenting that story.
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http://www.over-caffeinated sugary drink company.tv/video/AP-1MQQXUJJD1W11/jumbo-love
The story of Ethan on Jumbo Love really resonates with me, and this video does a great job of presenting that story.
Really enjoyed that
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Charlie Woodburn climbing Central Buttress, Scafell, and musing on the first ascent. CB was an early example of red-pointing, trained for with intensive bouldering, worked over a two year period including abseil inspection, top-rope practice of sections, and beta memorised by drawing the crux moves. A timely film given Herford's death 100 years ago this year.
https://youtu.be/nrNmcSYtwaA
Excellent.
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https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=3D0Mp0RrQRA (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=3D0Mp0RrQRA)
For my double century of posts on ukb!
Not seen this one before, must have slipped through the net.
The big man, crusing and crushing the big lines.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RSRC0HJORUQ
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haha, bear grylls
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Hot Aches : Transitions (http://www.mountain-equipment.co.uk/transition) (time limited availability).
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https://vimeo.com/134583685
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That top out on the Angel of Pain video! :o
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Shockingly bad editing and even worse music BUT great to see footage of such an iconic and distinctive climb. Proper climbing starts at 4:00 and had me properly sweating, great stuff.
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you forget to post the link fiend?
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I guess he's referring to the Angel of Pain vid I posted above?
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ah yes. my bad
:spank:
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Angel of Pain vid.
Didn't he do this quite a while a while ago? FA back in 1991!
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:shrug: I've downloaded a copy (https://rg3.github.io/youtube-dl/) for future viewing.
Thanks for that, Slackline. If we assume for a moment that I have less IT knowledge than you what would be the quickest way of me learning how to make this work?
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:shrug: I've downloaded a copy (https://rg3.github.io/youtube-dl/) for future viewing.
Thanks for that, Slackline. If we assume for a moment that I have less IT knowledge than you what would be the quickest way of me learning how to make this work?
The above link is to a command line utility for downloading YouTube/Vimeo/etc.
Follow the installation instructions here (https://github.com/rg3/youtube-dl/blob/master/README.md#readme) for your OS. If you're running some M$-Windows variant then you have to make sure, as the instructions say, that it is in the PATH environment variable.
Then start a Command Prompt (http://www.computerhope.com/issues/chusedos.htm) (or terminal if on OSX or GNU/Linux variant) and you'd then type...
youtbe-dl https://vimeo.com/ondemand/38737/128647607
...and it downloads the video to the current directory (shown on the command line where you typed 'youtube-dl', often something like 'c:\Windows' or 'c:\Desktop'). You can then use the File Manager to move it to wherever you want to save it.
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Don't recall seeing this one posted:
https://vimeo.com/157350973
Ten minutes in, and decent so far.
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"Some call it White Courage, I call it chalk" :lol:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5PywRnBl7IE
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This might have already been posted but just stumbled across this ace vid of Robbie Phillips doing some great routes in the UK and on the continent.
Would love to climb some of the more moderate routes in the places he goes!!
https://vimeo.com/157350973
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^^^ only 2 posts back Duncan ;)
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ah... that was lazy of me!! I presumed if it had been posted that as the film was out on vimeo 5 months ago and as I hadn't seen it/remembered seeing it posted that it would be a few pages back at least.
I look like a right numpty now!
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This looks awesome!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nhx0DpWeO8k
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https://vimeo.com/180757547 (https://vimeo.com/180757547)
For the trad heads.
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This looks awesome!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nhx0DpWeO8k
Why is Khal Drogo in this video??????
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This looks awesome!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nhx0DpWeO8k
Why is Khal Drogo in this video??????
He's getting beta, obviously.
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Ugly cave, but cool video
https://vimeo.com/182312628
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http://www.over-caffeinated sugary drink company.tv/video/AP-1MQQXUJJD1W11/jumbo-love
The story of Ethan on Jumbo Love really resonates with me, and this video does a great job of presenting that story.
Very good indeed. A bit annoyingly hype-hype-hype at first, but once it gets on to his actual story and battle with the route (and himself)....quite reassuring to see a top climber be more open and honest about depression and doubt. Although the "window" section was perhaps the most entertaining....
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Ugly cave, but cool video
https://vimeo.com/182312628
been widely seen on social media... and given due respect. let's face it - it's a truly awesome film and takes us, the viewer, through an epic journey... superb little film, many thanks!!
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This looks like a lovely route
http://vimeo.com/114622030
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And this was really nice (Kif-kif demain, 8c+/9a)
http://youtu.be/rcq3Z1oua6g
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Wild New Brave teaser.
https://vimeo.com/180367383
It would be good to if this and Brave New Wild had screenings in the UK. They appear to offer a gentler and less heroic take on "golden age" US climbing. Women included! An antidote, perhaps, to the mythologising Valley Uprising.
https://vimeo.com/179396266
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This may have come up before here or on Fairly Long, Moderately Hard and Mostly Free but WOW...this route looks amazing!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGA1vI2HxTs
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This may have come up before here or on Fairly Long, Moderately Hard and Mostly Free but WOW...this route looks amazing!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rGA1vI2HxTs
Worth a repost, some great fear in that
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"Through the Green Door" is a great little trilogy of short films from Irish legend Ricky Bell.
The first has some awesome footage of climbing on the Isle of Owey, including a route on the Holy Jesus Wall - certainly somewhere I would like to go in the future!
https://vimeo.com/186068708
The second has some cool Fair Head footage
https://vimeo.com/186094933
Finally, the third has some nice footage of Ricky styling up a Mournes slab.
https://vimeo.com/186148100
Sit back and enjoy! :popcorn:
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part 5
https://vimeo.com/186439693
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part 4
https://vimeo.com/186288050
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Part 6 Paralyzed Power looks even better on film than in the photo in the book. Good to see Dan Varian putting that mono beastmakering to good use.
https://vimeo.com/187095953
Nice footage of Jolly Roger too, brings back memories of doing it in a freezing gale and not having long enough ropes to do it in a oner so absolutely froze my tits off at the belay.
Nice series Ricky! :2thumbsup:
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I enjoyed all of those. Peace Donkey looks exactly like the kind of route I would have loved when I was still young and competent.
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https://vimeo.com/182341035 (https://vimeo.com/182341035)
This is smooth.
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:goodidea:Wow, that is good. The Blue Mountains look just like the RRG. Is that really the first ascent of a 9a by an Australian?!
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Is that really the first ascent of a 9a by an Australian?!
I think it is unless you count Wheel of Life.
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https://vimeo.com/187316913 (https://vimeo.com/187316913)
Next one
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https://vimeo.com/187316913 (https://vimeo.com/187316913)
Next one
So good that one! If anyone needed convincing of how goof Caff is, there it is. Well good watching Ryan on it considering he'd basically been drinking for two months prior to this with broken ribs.
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Something a bit different
In my New Zealand research I noticed this extended film on Vimeo covering South Island Sport climbing, looks scrappy as you might expect from hearing about NZ quality but check it out from 22.00 in when the Little Babylon sport climbing starts - a massive perma-dry granite cliff in the middle of what looks like Jurassic Park.
Awesome. :bounce:
I like the look of other areas too but hey, I like Peak Lime
http://vimeo.com/114959760
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https://youtu.be/9yhfe3tOJ38 (https://youtu.be/9yhfe3tOJ38)
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Something a bit different
In my New Zealand research I noticed this extended film on Vimeo covering South Island Sport climbing, looks scrappy as you might expect from hearing about NZ quality but check it out from 22.00 in when the Little Babylon sport climbing starts - a massive perma-dry granite cliff in the middle of what looks like Jurassic Park.
Awesome. :bounce:
I like the look of other areas too but hey, I like Peak Lime
http://vimeo.com/114959760
I climbed there and the nearby Waterworks in 2003. It's flipping ace. The Darrans are an utterly amazing mountain range. Not world class routes but a world-class experience climbing there. The bivvy boulder underneath Mt Sabre and Labyrinth is huge and a wonderful spot to spend a few days.
Mt Somers is well worth a visit if you've time - single pitch dolerite column climbing - lots of bridging up wide chimneys. Like Fairhead, or a mini devils tower (I presume). Trad in the cracks, sport on the faces. A lovely tramping hut at the base of the cliff to stay in - it's worth staying a night as it's a fair walk-in.
The cliffs around Mt Cook village (sebastopol bluffs etc.) aren't worth a detour.
Christchurch cliffs (port hills) are ok for a day or two but nothing special. I didn't check out the cliffs a little further south of these.
Wanaka is fun and accessible. Nothing special but some good routes dotted around.
Didn't check out Paynes Ford but it's supposed to be good, I imagine a 'typical' well established sport crag scene with campsite etc.
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I climbed there and the nearby Waterworks in 2003. It's flipping ace. The Darrans are an utterly amazing mountain range. Not world class routes but a world-class experience climbing there. The bivvy boulder underneath Mt Sabre and Labyrinth is huge and a wonderful spot to spend a few days.
Yes that's been my general impression from reading about it.
I would love to try Labyrinth (needs writing up in the 'long, hard' thread as it's been mooted as NZ's best multi pitch) and Lucky Strike off the Homer Saddle but I probably won't be able to do so with my girlfriend. I hope to meet someone in the the Homer Hut maybe, can't really stay there at $30pp a night though unfortunately as it looks like a great base.
Mt Somers is well worth a visit if you've time - single pitch dolerite column climbing - lots of bridging up wide chimneys. Like Fairhead, or a mini devils tower (I presume). Trad in the cracks, sport on the faces. A lovely tramping hut at the base of the cliff to stay in - it's worth staying a night as it's a fair walk-in.
on the list mos def.
(http://rockrogue.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/EmFortress-768x1024.jpg)
The cliffs around Mt Cook village (sebastopol bluffs etc.) aren't worth a detour.
Christchurch cliffs (port hills) are ok for a day or two but nothing special. I didn't check out the cliffs a little further south of these.
Wanaka is fun and accessible. Nothing special but some good routes dotted around.
exactly, I think uncle somebody's blog on it said it best that the surroundings make it worth it, i'm not in the country for the climbing but it'll be fun to have the context of climbing to meet people, as ever.
Didn't check out Paynes Ford but it's supposed to be good, I imagine a 'typical' well established sport crag scene with campsite etc.
spot-on, hang-dog campsite is the place, looking forward to cheedale-by-sea in the day and fire poi at night, knarly.
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Holy columnar jointing Batman!
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vOU66xAHzQQ
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http://tv.thebmc.co.uk/videos/resurrection-wilton-4/
Well put together and high quality composition there. The intro sequence is brilliant and the general purpose of the film is good - although the quality of the film looks slightly better than some of the subject matter! Still, it would tempt me back.
One criticism is the music is waaay louder than the voices, I had to keep turning it up and down.
Thanks Fiend! Glad you enjoyed it :)
Yeah I know about the sound, it bugged me too... I didn't have the knowledge or software to deal with OMF files in time - learning curve!
PS: do it! The quarries miss you :P
Better late than never, and semi-off-topic, but....
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qaJ9FrDTSYA/WBEW0531mQI/AAAAAAAAB2U/8O9ACs1Yf_oJ_EpTw1KlxfI1_CZIwB-zwCLcB/s1600/fiend_w4.jpg)
Really nice wee route, steady and the rock was perfect despite it's colour.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CjEf30FD7yo
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https://youtu.be/-kms2eU_3lQ
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I loved that. It's great when you can hear the climbing.
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Awesome. Enjoyed that
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Leo's Mirror Wall film being released tonight.
https://twitter.com/LeoHoulding/status/785778787543838720
It not totally clear but I think you can watch it free tonight only. From 6:30pm
http://www.mirrorwallfilm.com/
Here:
https://www.youtube.com/user/BerghausOfficial
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Leo's Mirror Wall film being released tonight.
https://twitter.com/LeoHoulding/status/785778787543838720
It not totally clear but I think you can watch it free tonight only. From 6:30pm
http://www.mirrorwallfilm.com/
Here:
https://www.youtube.com/user/BerghausOfficial
Live now. Not sure if its one day only for free.
https://youtu.be/cBSnwpcYRqA
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Good that. Looked like some real slaying of demons going on.
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I thought the film 'Shifting Dreams' about Caroline Ciavaldini climbing the Voie Petit was utterly compelling. Some of the climbing footage is amazing, but not that amazing and it doesn't matter. This is a film that non-climbers would enjoy as it's really about her and her story. For climbers it REALLY makes you want to climb on the Grand Cap! 10/10 for me.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WqUpxCco3PA
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I'll never get tired of learning how new to trad E9 leader and multiple first ascentionist Caroline Ciavaldini is. ;)
Voie Petit looks like the best route in the world!
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I thought the film 'Shifting Dreams' about Caroline Ciavaldini climbing the Voie Petit was utterly compelling. Some of the climbing footage is amazing, but not that amazing and it doesn't matter. This is a film that non-climbers would enjoy as it's really about her and her story. For climbers it REALLY makes you want to climb on the Grand Cap! 10/10 for me.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WqUpxCco3PA
Back around on that chain grab ;)
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Slightly hypnotic clip from one of my favourite areas
http://youtu.be/nijSJ9Y-rTs
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Thanks, I enjoyed that.
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I'll never get tired of learning how new to trad E9 leader and multiple first ascentionist Caroline Ciavaldini is. ;)
That's what I thought I'd think before starting to watch it. The opening was familiar ground but it quickly got into it's stride and I really enjoyed it. It helps that CC is such an engaging character. My resolve to not climb on glaciers is being severely tested.
I didn't get on with Mirror Wall at all. It had many of the right ingredients for me - interesting setting, big gnarly route - but I just didn't feel drawn into the story or the people. I don't doubt the sub-theme about abandoning the family is real but it just felt forced. And it only seemed to apply to Holding.
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Agree on Mirror wall. I think the plan to make a more reflective film meant the climb itself got forgotten.
The Grand Cap film was ok. Having been on the route I found the lower half a bit of a forced line of most resistance, but it was good to see some important sections filmed well, especially on the upper half. Good to see Arnaud and Steph too.
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Agree on Mirror wall. I think the plan to make a more reflective film meant the climb itself got forgotten.
Deliberate?
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https://vimeo.com/194587086
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v cool. the analog footage is good!
whats the tune?
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Its an advert but still amusing, no dyno though...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mi4iR4clDGs
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Looks slow compared to Osman!
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Think I remember reading somewhere that Honnold said osman must have climbed super fast past cameramen then slowed down. Because if he had kept his pace up he would have been very fast. Honnold just climbed at a sustained, pretty fast pace.
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Makes sense I suppose, ham it up for the camera a bit. Do I take it that whole route is off-vertical?
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Yeah I imagine it is. Don't think I did the route when I went there but most of those routes were slabby.
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v cool. the analog footage is good!
whats the tune?
Hi, it's called 'old songs' by Tom Grennan.
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v cool. the analog footage is good!
whats the tune?
Hi, it's called 'old songs' by Tom Grennan.
Really like the vid Dan, great feel to it
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Cheers Guy, the old super 8 camera was fun to use. I've got an old Super 16mm Krasnogorsk that I'll buy some film for* at some point.
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Cheers Guy, the old super 8 camera was fun to use. I've got an old Super 16mm Krasnogorsk that I'll buy some film for* at some point.
wow I just thought it was just editing effects, good effort.
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Might be worth checking the film gate, that vertical stripe is more likely a scratch in-camera than a processing fault.
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Might be worth checking the film gate, that vertical stripe is more likely a scratch in-camera than a processing fault.
Thanks JB, I thought it must be the gate but have no idea what to do with it / to the gate to make it better. Any help would be great?
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Probably just worth giving it a bit of a brush out and make sure it's spotless, would only take a tiny bit of grit or shit like that. Presume the scratch is on the emulsion side, is the back pressure plate actually part of the cassette on super8?
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Yeah the back is part of the cassette, I did give the gate a good brush but maybe it's a build up of old emulsion or even the position of the gate. It's an old camera with some rusty bits that prob need cleaning. Also it's back loading so hard to get to the gate to clean it properly.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J7QeAx8mn9A
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Very nice.
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I enjoyed that. Captured the atmosphere of the place and being up on Naranjo.
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What an amazing film. I love the film of those two on Silbergeier and this is just as good.
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Great film. The climbing on that thing looks incredible.
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I feel as though i'm breaking the rules posting this here as i'm in the video, but here's JC's newest video, it's brilliant I'm grinning ear to ear now!
http://vimeo.com/197386326
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Its a bit 'look at me', but I enjoyed it.
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Great little film!
Is there an address we can send food parcels to?
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Lovely. We need more wading to the crag in climbing videos. Non-English viewers may have a quiet giggle at what constitutes an "amazing" line.
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Crickey, there isn't much to Sonnie trot... sorry, Jon Clarke, is there? Good video
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Cool vid, effort on the FA Haydn.
...what's Dom doing at a sport crag??
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I really enjoyed that. The opening drone shot was such a reminder of all those days walking down into (and back out of!) the Dale. A lot of the other shots captured the unique atmosphere of the place, something I always had a really soft spot for.
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I really enjoyed that. The opening drone shot was such a reminder of all those days walking down into (and back out of!) the Dale. A lot of the other shots captured the unique atmosphere of the place, something I always had a really soft spot for.
Yes I agree, I get a warm fuzzy feeling. Well, until Haydn appears.
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"Probably the dirtiest crag that I've ever seen"
As someone with a cleaning rack that includes an ice axe, patio scraper, wire brush, crowbar, trowel and a pruning saw, this comment has me chuckling. The top of the 8b looks great.
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Really enjoyed Chee Dale vid.
This ones pretty good too, title of film/route gives the game away.
Was going to post in" ledgendary feets" area as it seems a Beastmaker was used for majority of training and there's been some hot discussion on all things Beasty.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=aS693w9NViw (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=aS693w9NViw)
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God that english dub is terrible. I had to stop and find the subbed version
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God that english dub is terrible. I had to stop and find the subbed version
Whoops , sorry pasted the wrong one!
Here's the correct one, just check on the subtitles!
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=U4YtdgPk4Xo (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=U4YtdgPk4Xo)
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0:50 in the Chee Dale one was superb.
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Nice to see neither of them taking themselves too seriously, although onsights of 8b+ and redpoints of 9a+ isn't exactly cocking about:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pea7xJzbZSY
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Not sure if it belongs to this category...
Anyway, i'm curious if anyone knew about the fancy way of unclipping a cam from your harness that's presented in this video. Seems odd that no one ever figured that one out before.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JZNyOn-tgr8
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https://vimeo.com/199029223
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Muchos psychos for this....
http://vimeo.com/200580339
...even if it has got Fiend in it ;)
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Just saw this on the other channel :thumbsup:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YudRcRdXSM4
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Muchos psychos for this....
...even if it has got Fiend in it ;)
Late Spring can't come soon enough!
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A mix of quality chuffing and bouldering topped off with a superb mix of music.
http://vimeo.com/200237273
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E7rwYXT06Ps
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In case people miss the ondrawadthread:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KVlGxVE_0uc
Incredibly precise and determined climbing as usual :bow:
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https://vimeo.com/204263843
Federica Mingolla on Via Attraverso il Pesce / Weg durch den Fisch / The Fish. The Marmolada looking splendid. They seem to have solved the issue of what to do if you miss the cable car down!
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https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=QwA5MkOYQxU (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=QwA5MkOYQxU)
What an amazing climbing achievement.
Great job Pete.
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Amazing effort, he looks utterly wasted at the end.
Film looks promising despite the difficulties of getting material of a solo climber in a hurry. AK pronouncing on free-climbing is a bit incongruous and he seems to imply rope-soloing El Cap in a day is as impressive as free-soloing it. I wonder why he would want people to think that?!
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Slightly weird
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ljFwU1wlxkQ
Ganesha, 8c, FFA
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Slightly weird
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ljFwU1wlxkQ
Ganesha, 8c, FFA
The cluster-fuck of ropes dangling all over the place had me slightly worried for some reason.
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Slightly weird
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ljFwU1wlxkQ
Ganesha, 8c, FFA
The cluster-fuck of ropes dangling all over the place had me slightly worried for some reason.
The frigged gri gri would be more concerning....
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He really oversells that "dyno" at around 2:35.
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He really oversells that "dyno" at around 2:35.
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https://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/reach---a-film-by-david-petts/606068
Enjoying this - I think it's up on Epic TV as a temporary preview.
Bizarre that literally the first day in years I have the southern sandstone guidebook out - plotting a trip tomorrow - a film comes out with some of the best lines being cruised in style.
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https://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/reach---a-film-by-david-petts/606068
Enjoying this - I think it's up on Epic TV as a temporary preview.
Bizarre that literally the first day in years I have the southern sandstone guidebook out - plotting a trip tomorrow - a film comes out with some of the best lines being cruised in style.
Thanks Yossarian for Reach film link.
The new gold standard for climbing/bouldering movies.
Matt C - he sets at the climbing wall, what a climbing machine.
Gaia gave me goose bumps, remembering carnage from Hard Grit.
Quality camera work, grading? - think that's what it's called brilliant.
Psyched to now train and climb hard!
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https://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/reach---a-film-by-david-petts/606068
Enjoying this - I think it's up on Epic TV as a temporary preview.
Bizarre that literally the first day in years I have the southern sandstone guidebook out - plotting a trip tomorrow - a film comes out with some of the best lines being cruised in style.
Thanks Yossarian for Reach film link.
The new gold standard for climbing/bouldering movies.
Matt C - he sets at the climbing wall, what a climbing machine.
Gaia gave me goose bumps, remembering carnage from Hard Grit.
Quality camera work, grading? - think that's what it's called brilliant.
Psyched to now train and climb hard!
I only had time to watch the first 15 mins (and a few skipped bits later on), but yeah, it's great
it did make me think how I couldn't live in London, but I appreciate the scene that those guys have going - interesting to compare and contrast to my scene of mainly pottering about outside with other old people who still aspire to doing things they haven't done before
nice
edit - enthusiasm - that's what comes across
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It paints a pretty inaccurate view of living in London. If you're considering moving, I'd check out Made in Chelsea and Top Boy - both being far more realistic. I could also introduce you to the Candy brothers who, amongst other things could offer you some spectacular koi fishing facilities in the west end.
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the Candy brothers are too rich to appreciate the glory that is good grit conditions on a day of no work, whereas the thin white climbers in the film fully accept that they are unable to have regular days scuttling around bits of the outdoors hoping to hit on big connies - they can, however, be pretty sure that wherever they do end up, they are in good shape to enjoy it
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Great film, I find it hard to believe nobody told them there's already a classic climbing film called Reach though.
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And a banging tune from S-Club Clan
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Very pleasantly surprised by the Reach film. Really enjoyed it. Was revved up to be rapidly overcome with hate having seen a couple of annoying hype things associated with it a while ago and of course, the fact it's on epic tv, Totally ill-founded reservations - it was great. Really nicely paced, pretty varied and some of those long uncut sequences were really well filmed and great to watch. Bit of Muzak overload for me in places. And never a fan of those interview bits where people are bigging up the climber currently in the film's spotlight (it's just not British) but generally, thought the talking bits were pretty good too. Cousins - clearly a total monster but also, that seemingly very rare combination of being that strong and good and still having the desire/motivation to do stuff like solo Gaia.
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I also liked it, but was a bit disappointed with Steve's section. I got very little feel for the route.
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I thought it was generic, a bit boring and cringe worthy... unlike that lifetime project video which was ace. Reach certainly wasn't a 'new style of climbing movie' or whatever it is it claims to be.
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I agree it was boring as hell, with the exception of Gaia solo just because I hadn't seen it before. I usually find watching the world's greatest underachiever, Louis Parkinson, entertaining. In this I just got really bored with his unfunny waffle. The Lifetime Proj thing was amazing - a welcome antidote to the hour of bullshit we watched before.
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Tough crowd.
My take - I liked it but... yawn. We're inundated with slick films that took years to gather the content for and months to edit down into hour-long beautiful creations. Behind the nice camerawork the narrative is nearly always the same - (relatively) privileged guys climbing rocks, with almost zero depth behind who they are and where they've come from. And one 8A looks very much like another.. This would have been thought of as amazing 10 years ago but today it just blends in.
Instead we get as much if not more enjoyment watching a film about a loon in the backwoods finally doing his lifetime 7c+ proj, filmed from one angle,seemingly on a camera propped up against his shoe.
The solo of Gaia and the comp win were interesting, unusual to see someone with skills that diverse.
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Instead we get as much if not more enjoyment watching a film about a loon in the backwoods finally doing his lifetime 7c+ proj, filmed from one angle,seemingly on a camera propped up against his shoe.
The entertainment value was the parody no? It would have been totally crap if it had really been about someone doing their lifetime proj in the backwoods.
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Tough crowd.
That's what I thought, the Reach video was really good I thought. Good to find out a bit more about a climber we don't hear that much of (Matt Cousins, I had no idea he'd soloed Gaia), also good to shine a spotlight on the London 'scene' I've always been curious (why do climbers stay there?). Always great to see Malham (but we don't need to attract any more people to it!). The tracking shot of Louis Parkinson on that long boulder problem was not something I remember seeing before, really, really good.
I liked everything about the lifetime project vid, didn't realise it was a parody. I like it less now if that's the case, what was it parodying?
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I thought it was generic, a bit boring and cringe worthy... unlike that lifetime project video which was ace. Reach certainly wasn't a 'new style of climbing movie' or whatever it is it claims to be.
I agree mostly with Pete on this, which makes a change.
Anything creative like Reach, takes ages to think about, organise, shoot and then edit.
It isn't a five minute job, the fact that you can watch this for nothing amazes me in this day and age.
I am just wondering how generic/boring soloing Gaia actually is and capturing this on film.
abarro - so when is your feature length movie "Kneepad" coming out?
Please incorporate some pyrotechnics alongside the Tom Cruise narration.
Lifetime project was funny, but you cant really compare that to Reach.
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abarro - so when is your feature length movie "Kneepad" coming out?
Please incorporate some pyrotechnics alongside the Tom Cruise narration.
I'm seeing this more as a slow-burning conceptual sci-fi - the awakening of a sentient kneepad, flashes of sensory feedback as it tries to process being stuffed into cave roofs, etc.
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I thought it was generic, a bit boring and cringe worthy... unlike that lifetime project video which was ace. Reach certainly wasn't a 'new style of climbing movie' or whatever it is it claims to be.
I agree mostly with Pete on this, which makes a change.
Anything creative like Reach, takes ages to think about, organise, shoot and then edit.
It isn't a five minute job, the fact that you can watch this for nothing amazes me in this day and age.
All valid points but, and I ask this sincerely, how is Reach 'a new type of climbing film'?
I enjoyed it, I'm very grateful it's available for free, but the hyperbole puts me off. I said something stupid at the start of my video about 'best grit season ever' and have regretted it since. I hope it's just EpicTV influence in this case. Anyway, Matt Cousins segment was a highlight, would've liked to have seen more of Jim Pope - could there be enough footage for some extras? The skate vid style of having individual profiles reminded me of the classic Peak vid Winter Sessions.
Well done to David, thanks for putting the hours in. I bet you were shitting your pants watching him solo Gaia.
Barrows is great on film, really makes a twat of himself in a totally unselfconscious way while trying harder than anyone else I know. If he wants to make 'kneepad' I'm up for it.
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Training montages to include mostly me doing calf raises until my achillies tendons snap...
Perhaps I wrote my review a little harshly. I think I just expected more/different given how it was billed - it struck me less as something new and more as exactly the same as every other climbing movie (but not as good as the ones you'd get from the likes of Big Up).
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I think having a section on southern sandstone (UK version)is pretty novel!
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Balls, I've missed it... Anyone know when/where else Reach will be available to watch?
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I think I read it will be on Vimeo on demand from tomorrow.
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I said something stupid at the start of my video about 'best grit season ever' and have regretted it since.
bear down productions : a gritstone year
is pretty hard to beat imo
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I thought it was generic, a bit boring and cringe worthy... unlike that lifetime project video which was ace. Reach certainly wasn't a 'new style of climbing movie' or whatever it is it claims to be.
Agreed. Nice to see different footage of climbs but nothing out of the ordinary or interesting
Did Fiend not get a ton of bullshit from Slackline for giving his opinion on films?
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Slackwho?? Quite possibly.
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So Reach, around 5.99 as I missed the free view. A reasonable amount for an enjoyable film.
It was pitched as a new style of climbing film, I must have missed that bit. I enjoyed it and will watch again but won't be quoting from it in 20yrs time.
Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk
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Instead we get as much if not more enjoyment watching a film about a loon in the backwoods finally doing his lifetime 7c+ proj, filmed from one angle,seemingly on a camera propped up against his shoe.
The entertainment value was the parody no? It would have been totally crap if it had really been about someone doing their lifetime proj in the backwoods.
Hold on hold on hold on. Lifetime Project is a parody? I don't think so. If it is then my life is in utter tatters.
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Instead we get as much if not more enjoyment watching a film about a loon in the backwoods finally doing his lifetime 7c+ proj, filmed from one angle,seemingly on a camera propped up against his shoe.
I though Nalle graded it 9A?
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gLQtytqJ_KM
I really enjoyed this.
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25 minutes of the BOYZ on Czech sandstone?? Count me in :w00t:
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What a treat to have 'nature sounds' instead of music.
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Remind me not to let you organise the next Works party then.
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Grimer - breathe and relax.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eKFTSSKCzWA
Report back in 8 hours 20 min :)
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Cool video. A nice contrast to the lappnor one :)
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dick insider her aka Dickens Cider
This has got to be in the quality section for narration/spoken word, absolute classic :beer2:
https://vimeo.com/213447375 (https://vimeo.com/213447375)
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https://youtu.be/N9H8gcpZhss
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Remind me not to let you organise the next Works party then.
An evening of banging birdsong.
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Remind me not to let you organise the next Works party then.
An evening of banging birdsong.
curated by MC Woodpecka - comin' atya 1200bbm stylee - TIMBAH!!!!!!!
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HOLDTIGHT DA CHAFFINCHDEM CRU
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I'll be getting advance tickets for that one :punk:
Also we might have had this one in here:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9H8gcpZhss
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mvOzAB8j5Eg
Epic bantz etc etc.
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Have we had this before? I make a small appearance but was otherwise not involved in the making etc.
https://vimeo.com/167817286
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Loved that.
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Very much enjoyed. I think I saw Martin solo Wall of Horrors once and there was a heart in the mouth moment (for the spectators) when he did a go-again slap on the crux. Obviously a sequence he'd done plenty of times before but not something we were expecting!
The solo of Wellington Crack didn't look all that smooth :o
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Lovely, notwithstanding the "purest form of climbing" nonsense.
That final shot is great.
(film archive - the Conservative party??)
Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk
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The Reel Rock films are available for free on over-caffeinated sugary drink company TV. I just watched The Swiss Machine; what an incredible insight. I couldn't believe it when Alex Honnold said he went beyond his tolerance for risk, and that footage of the Eiger speed record was unbelievable.
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Why can't we say Re d B ull? It came up as over-caffeinated sugary drink company....
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There's an autocorrect thing on posts that changes mentions of the scarlet male bovines into "over-caffeinated sugary drink company" (not my idea I should add). Same one that substitutes CragX for any mentions of Cr$$br00k.
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Haha, I guess eatswood Rocks must get the same treatment.
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Or not....
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Look again...
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Oh yeah.
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it changes the word pr0n too.
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I found this mesmerising. How do you "rest" your way up a 9b?!
https://vimeo.com/218653943
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I watched that the other day; its kind of enthralling.
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It never really looks like he gets to a crux move. When Sharma did it in Progression he looked like he was really trying!
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https://www.reelhouse.org/hotaches/redemption (https://www.reelhouse.org/hotaches/redemption)
All 12 Hot Aches films for 20 quid. Bargain.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yVLYTWcoZjc
Thought this one was really good.
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:rtfm:
It never really looks like he gets to a crux move. When Sharma did it in Progression he looked like he was really trying!
Not sure about numbers but I think it took Shama a lot fewer goes/less time than Pringle.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yVLYTWcoZjc
Thought this one was really good.
Yup, great vid that.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yVLYTWcoZjc
Thought this one was really good.
fucking hell that was was good. Bit of a moment for me, I'm pretty sure I knew her father... before she was born. jeeez..
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yVLYTWcoZjc
Thought this one was really good.
fucking hell that was was good. Bit of a moment for me, I'm pretty sure I knew her father... before she was born. jeeez..
The look in her eyes at the end going to clip is intense!
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Spanish dark horse Dani Fuertes close the account on his old project at Ventanas:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gCaw6FvYLrQ
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Good name!
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https://vimeo.com/234917813
Nice "put it to bed" vibe. The big story for me is always: where's Didier now? Last I heard Cobra Crack sent him to a monastery??
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yVLYTWcoZjc
Thought this one was really good.
fucking hell that was was good. Bit of a moment for me, I'm pretty sure I knew her father... before she was born. jeeez..
Disappointed at 1:35 by the thin, crema-free espresso.
But man, that story certainly moistened the corneas.
The look in her eyes at the end going to clip is intense!
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Not sure if this has been posted or not, strong yoot on de franken hard
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=12XoNCIrlNM
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8) Heinous mono at 1:20-1:30ish. :sick: Ondra does that route in the Wizard's Apprentice and says that it rarely dries out, I guess that's changed (or I'm thinking of a different route) if it was this lad's project.
I loved the drone shot coming out of the cave as he gets to the chains (I'm assuming this wasn't really the redpoint go...) weird to see it cut straight from that to the awkward interview two shot with the recorder slap bang on the back of the settee though! :blink:
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8) Heinous mono at 1:20-1:30ish. :sick: Ondra does that route in the Wizard's Apprentice and says that it rarely dries out, I guess that's changed (or I'm thinking of a different route) if it was this lad's project.
I loved the drone shot coming out of the cave as he gets to the chains (I'm assuming this wasn't really the redpoint go...) weird to see it cut straight from that to the awkward interview two shot with the recorder slap bang on the back of the settee though! :blink:
yes that was a great use of drone, I say through clenched teeth.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZhhZ2fTuhMo
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZhhZ2fTuhMo
7:34 - 7:36, wtf?
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A2VHVDS13eY
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Slooooow* video on Action Directe, juicy close-ups of all those minging monos :sick:
*I really like the slow motion the initial dyno, like a planet earth segment.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=386&v=g_8090__Blg
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That's really nicely shot and put together, thanks wtf.
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And this is where we need the karma stats back for a massive puntering of WoodFT for including the ?time_continue=386 in his link :spank: :chair: :jab:
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And this is where we need the karma stats back for a massive puntering of WoodFT for including the ?time_continue=386 in his link :spank: :chair: :jab:
It's not really one of those videos, is it? But for those trying to watch at work - the 'redpoint' starts at around 4 min 20 secs
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Bavariana and Tyrolians in Pembroke last summer (https://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/summer-solstice-in-wales---a-trad-climbing-journey/606575).
Some impressive ascents from a very strong team. Film is well put together and gently paced which makes a pleasant change.
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That looks really good.
I wonder what grade it is if you don't wear MadRock shoes.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=576&v=NJHVgkchcbw
Apologies if a repost but this is quite amusing
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inspiring stuff
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NUJnZeCc7Hw
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That's brilliant. Very inspiring and a great way to descend also!
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yOfYNX82_xw
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Would love to see a similar video with Nina and Shark going through thecmoves on the Oak
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Would love to see a similar video with Nina and Shark going through thecmoves on the Oak
Let's crowdfund this shit. I'm in.
Also love the way she has the size written on her climbing shoes as if she's just nicked them from the local wall.
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Im in as long as there's a "Nina will say 'Have you tried climbing a bit faster?'" donation level.
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Remus: wadded for the only kickstarter perk I would happily back
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This was OK, if a little too droney in places. Great looking route. Almost seems funny that the bolts are sat right there:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vZG7FTDM9U&t=3s
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I think it's a French TV show but lots of great footage and chat from the wads.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hWjM20NnA_A&feature=youtu.be
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From the description: "Matt Helliker and Rhoslyn Frugtniet endeavour to conquer Bristol's Super Ramp Challenge, 15 extreme rock climbs undertaken on an insanely hot summers day on the Avon Gorge's Unknown Wall."
https://vimeo.com/234109694
I'm not sure this belongs in quality, but it has an authentic Avon flavour and I enjoyed being reminded of the place and the routes. Avon, where I first began to be a climber, will always remain one of my favourites.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qfH5bGQrnZw&app=desktop
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From the description: "Matt Helliker and Rhoslyn Frugtniet endeavour to conquer Bristol's Super Ramp Challenge, 15 extreme rock climbs undertaken on an insanely hot summers day on the Avon Gorge's Unknown Wall."
https://vimeo.com/234109694
I'm not sure this belongs in quality, but it has an authentic Avon flavour and I enjoyed being reminded of the place and the routes. Avon, where I first began to be a climber, will always remain one of my favourites.
The ramp is quality
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Quality!
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https://vimeo.com/247667815
Very much looking forward to having a crack at this next year... cool to see some footage of Aussie classics!!
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Ondrawad vs Rainman
www.youtube.com/watch?v=TkdGK0d8iOk (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TkdGK0d8iOk)
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http://vimeo.com/248117605
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This was OK, if a little too droney in places. Great looking route. Almost seems funny that the bolts are sat right there:
Just watched this. The thing that stood out for me is that film is basically about Heather trying to do the route, but more about her struggling with a lack of self esteem and feelings of low self worth. Near the beginning her husband says "I love it when hot women do amazing stuff". It seems amazing that this qualified approval - her efforts are only valid because she is "hot" is not questioned at all in the film, as that is the sort of thing women especially have put upon them all the time that could perhaps contribute to issues of low self esteem etc. etc.
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This was OK, if a little too droney in places. Great looking route. Almost seems funny that the bolts are sat right there:
Just watched this. The thing that stood out for me is that film is basically about Heather trying to do the route, but more about her struggling with a lack of self esteem and feelings of low self worth. Near the beginning her husband says "I love it when hot women do amazing stuff". It seems amazing that this qualified approval - her efforts are only valid because she is "hot" is not questioned at all in the film, as that is the sort of thing women especially have put upon them all the time that could perhaps contribute to issues of low self esteem etc. etc.
There was a thread about this on the other channel as it was their Friday night video last week or the week before. Someone posted a good postctowards the end (ignore the rest!) with a link to a recent blog of Heather's, which gives some more interesting context, in particular what she thinks of the video herself now (it was filmed in summer '16).
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Heres the blogpost (https://heatherclimbs.com/2017/12/08/the-china-doll-contradiction-behind-the-scenes-of-the-film/)
Interesting stuff. Apart from the bit about their relationship I thought it was a pretty standard one-route project film with a dollop of fakeness stirred in but my girlfriend (who suffers from similar self-esteem issues as Heather) really liked it.
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I agree and I'm glad I didn't read that before watching the film as I probably wouldn't have bothered; similarly the blurb Nick Brown wrote for it on UKC bore no resemblance to the film I watched. I guess every climbing film these days has to have a narrative so we get Redemption or this where we are supposed to think someone genuinely does the think they have the ability to do a route despite being a professional climber so having a pretty good idea of what they are capable of and also having someone along to film the process, if you genuinely thought you weren't good enough would you be happy to waste someone's time filming you fail for a period of months?
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Margo Hayes crushing Biographie 9a+ in Ceuse
vimeo.com/241629145 (http://vimeo.com/241629145)
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For those of us of a certain age this is worth a watch, yesterday it wasn't possible to view without signing up to Epictv but today I can get on without
https://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/one-year-challenge-at-50-7b-to-8b-%7C-old-dog-new-tricks-ep-1/606781
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https://vimeo.com/239419875
Frome Valley esoterica, from the maker of the excellent Bristol buildering video a couple of years back. It's slow, specialist interest, and won't be coming to epictv soon. I liked it.
For those of us of a certain age this is worth a watch,
For me and the other person that doesn't know Richie, how hard did he climb when he was climbing at his best? Is this old dog, new tricks or old dog, old tricks revisited?
It seems to me that regaining your sport standard at 50 should be feasable given advances in training and rehabilitation in the last 20 years. Improving significantly on it is a different story.
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I also don't know know Richie but as an avid magazine reader back in the day I seem to recall he was a strong boulderer (7C/+?) and did lots of routes (E8/8a+) but more telling was the bit at the beginning of the film where it was implied his finger strength was already of the required standard for 8b+. Regardless, it's all grist to the mill as there is an increasing list of already accomplished climbers who have been able to push their grade past 50
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Yeah - lots of 8a and 8a+. Strong as, on short, steep fingery stuff, but also very prone to getting carried away with his own boundless enthusiasm and pulling so hard something snapped.
http://casaquiros.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/patta-cooks-leap.jpg .. moments before a broken ankle.
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https://vimeo.com/239419875
Frome Valley esoterica, from the maker of the excellent Bristol buildering video a couple of years back. It's slow, specialist interest, and won't be coming to epictv soon. I liked it.
I liked it to, a lot. Much of the climbing does look terrible, but that's not the point. These local spots are an important facet of the British climbing scene and the film really captured that. It captured a lot of beauty too. I can see why people would keep going back there.
It reminded me quite bit of this film about the sandstone crags at Armathwaite: https://vimeo.com/141652213
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Nice one for pointing that out Andy, the outlaws are from up that way so I might have to make my excuses and go for poddle.
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I liked it to, a lot. Much of the climbing does look terrible, but that's not the point. These local spots are an important facet of the British climbing scene and the film really captured that.
+1
I mourn the landfilling of Whitwick Quarry to this day, even though it's over thirty years since I was last there. And you had to be careful to stand on the bits of the footholds that were rock not paint for optimal friction.
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Cheers for that teaboy. Patta's a beast though, always has been.
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Cheers for that teaboy. Patta's a beast though, always has been.
IIRC Richie did Pork and Beans back int day, which at 7C+/8A on the 50 deg school board means he is easily strong enough to do some plodding Spanish 8b+. Does he have the motivation to train the level of fitness required?
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I saw Richie fall off the last move of Staminaband years ago, which is 8b+ as a route. His crag banter is definitely 8c though! ;D
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For those of us of a certain age this is worth a watch, yesterday it wasn't possible to view without signing up to Epictv but today I can get on without
https://www.epictv.com/media/podcast/one-year-challenge-at-50-7b-to-8b-%7C-old-dog-new-tricks-ep-1/606781
I like the out of focus Cupboard at 7:20
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RkS-082GcdE
Crackaholic: Bohusln climbing.
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https://vimeo.com/249486471
Roots Rock Arapiles: a short about the early days of climbing at Mt. Arapiles. Talking heads, stills, a tiny amount of archive footage but it tells the story very well.
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https://vimeo.com/181707076
Old school US business in authentic "which pixel's Sharma?" quality. ;D Can't remember seeing it on here before.
I've been watching quite a few things from this thread recently. I've not watched many climbing films over the past year or so as they've just reminded me of how many problems I still had to solve on mine!
That Glen Nevis one stands out for me- a great reminder than you can have the high production values that we've come to associate with films that are absolute rammel and still make a really good film. Great bit where the girl's onsighting the E5 in particular.
The Frome Valley one was interesting many ways. Cool bit with the old guys reminiscing and trying to toprope their old route and also the only time I've seen footage of Martin Crocker climbing.
Not sure why that Old Dog New Tricks one's doing in this thread (not least as it contains zero chuffing- there is a training video thread you know :geek:) maybe it helps if you know the guy but it just seemed like a non-quality Lattice advert to me.
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Not sure why that Old Dog New Tricks one's doing in this thread ..... it just seemed like a non-quality Lattice advert to me.
I enjoyed it but there is a fairly substantial wiff of infomercial I agree, I guess you get nothing for free
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https://vimeo.com/181707076
Old school US business in authentic "which pixel's Sharma?" quality. ;D Can't remember seeing it on here before.
Sharma did pretty well on that redpoint given that someone was bouncing around next to him for the entire time. Quality old-school video.
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Sharma did pretty well on that redpoint given that someone was bouncing around next to him for the entire time. Quality old-school video.
There also appears to be a member of the Eagles jugging next to him as he sketches up (!) Just Do It. Uri Geller puts in a spotter-dab cameo earlier as well.
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I don't make it through many climbing vids, but I really enjoyed that Frome sandstone vid. I think there's quite a lot of craft there under the lo-fi veneer.
Reminded me of my early days knocking around the Cheshire/ Shropshire sandstone scene.
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Yes, understated narrative of local history and interesting local characters meant I enjoyed that Frome video. A thorough review of what makes esoterica special.
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Just finished the Crackoholic Bohuslan film. What a great and gentle portrait of an area. Sounds like the Frome Valley one is in a similar vein so I'll rack that one up next...
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The Salty Dancefloor, Sarah-Jane Dobners ode to Pembroke. Part Atoms, Part Song
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=mm07hLWBFc8&time_continue=8
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cool
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I enjoyed this film about Smith Rock pioneer Alan Watts. He seems like a nice guy.
https://vimeo.com/252825458?utm_source=The+Project+Magazine+Master&utm_campaign=786f1c6c25-EMAIL_CAMPAIGN_2018_02_01&utm_medium=email&utm_term=0_3e0b4cd5e1-786f1c6c25-102573469
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YqyXtf4azgQ
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Love the Caprez/Zangerl one
This one is good despite the non-send
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T-aGCGMcBN0
Somewhat iffy subs though. A study in the danger of false friends.
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This is the place for this probably. Watched Meru on Netflix last night, which I hadn't heard of, telling the story of the first ascent of the Meru Shark's Fin. It must be pretty good because it held my non-climbing wife's attention throughout. The Gangotri valley was the site of my one and only Himalayan expedition (shit, 30 years ago next year!) so I really enjoyed 'revisiting' the area again after all those years. Trailer:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YvS6O9lVkkg
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The Gangotri valley was the site of my one and only Himalayan expedition (shit, 30 years ago next year!) so I really enjoyed 'revisiting' the area again after all those years.
What were you trying? I had a permit for the East Face of Kedar Dome ~30 years ago. Fortunately I got injured and bowed out. How far over my head would I have been...
Getting interested in a trip to the US south west again and came across this film of Jesse Huey, Paul McSorely, Coleman Blakeslee and Will Stanhope freeing the Finger of Fate route on The Titian. I enjoyed it and they gratifyingly didn't find it trivial (disgraceful lack of acknowledgement for El Mocho mind...).
https://vimeo.com/64126472
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Since the previous one was so well received, here's another in the series 'slightly unhinged lad climbs scary sandstone tower'. In this case Honza MakovIcka on 'Dragons Back', a Bernd Arnold route from the 70s that's ~6c+ with two bolts in 80m. I've still not climbed on Elbe sandstone, despite it being on my radar for 40 years. Probably far too timid now.
Background (http://www.emontana.cz/climbing-elbsandstein-falkenstein/)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j0jadlIdO5Q
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I saw this a while ago. Very good, click on CC for subs. The Czech sandstone climbers I met didn't think much of their German counterparts, apart from Berndt Arnold who they considered almost a demigod.
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That looks frightening, especially with no chalk! When i'm run out I chalk up incessantly, it is like a mental crutch for me. I feel like I should go there sometime and experience some of the easier classics and it looks like a beautiful area.
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It is an extraordinarily beautiful area. I preferred Bohemia (Adrspach & Teplice) to Saxony, but then again we never had the chance to climb at Falkenstein which looks like the best area in Saxony, as it started to rain. My wife hates it, so I am not sure I'll go again, but if I do I think I'd try to climb a few days in Font without chalk before to prepare.
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I've still not climbed on Elbe sandstone, despite it being on my radar for 40 20 years. Probably far too timid now.
;)
Fantastic video, that route looked bloody brilliant. Like JohnM, the lack of chalk puts me off (unlike JohnM it's a matter of physical urgency rather than a mental crux), more so that the knots and spaced protection. Even so when I see videos like that I think I might just have to cake myself in anti-hydral and get over there at some point....
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The Gangotri valley was the site of my one and only Himalayan expedition (shit, 30 years ago next year!) so I really enjoyed 'revisiting' the area again after all those years.
What were you trying? I had a permit for the East Face of Kedar Dome ~30 years ago. Fortunately I got injured and bowed out. How far over my head would I have been...
That's exactly what we tried! And we were so far in over our heads, despite having two experienced Himalayan climbers with us.
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Fantastic video, that route looked bloody brilliant. Like JohnM, the lack of chalk puts me off (unlike JohnM it's a matter of physical urgency rather than a mental crux), more so that the knots and spaced protection. Even so when I see videos like that I think I might just have to cake myself in anti-hydral and get over there at some point....
In Teplice in the Czech republic chalk is somewhat tolerated, if the climbing is difficult enough, is not a crack climb and the route was put up recently. I have sweaty hands as well, but I find cracks ok to climb without chalk (not finger cracks obviously but there are not that many around). In Adrspach I spied some chalk on the hardest face routes, but I would stick to the chimneys which can be enjoyed without.
I wrote up some stuff on Adr and Teplice after going in 2012: http://steepground.blogspot.com.es/2016/03/czech-sandstone-meet-2012.html
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We used chalk at both Ardspach and Teplice (in June). We climbed with some Czech friends so presumably it's tolerated more nowadays. That said we hardly saw anyone else climbing.
It was still terrifying most of the time!
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https://www.youtube.com/CikzYN0z4zU
This was very good.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CikzYN0z4zU
This was very good.
Just came to share the same link!
Took the opportunity to revisit the video of Jorg Verhoeven on the Nose too:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VapbvTq8GOE
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Two Nineteen Forty Four
Brad Gobright and Jim Reynolds Nose speed record ascent compressed to just over four minutes. Strangely compelling.
https://vimeo.com/264661267?ref=em-share
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Mesmerising. Some beautiful footage, nicely put together.
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Two Nineteen Forty Four
Lovely! Someone has got a very nice telephoto lens; the image quality is great.
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Speed records etc. normally leave me cold, but as Wil said, that was mesmerising.
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Steve Findlays daughter on the FA of the excellent looking Tainted Love at Squamish. Cameo from ukb occasional ding dong.
https://youtu.be/nPtdvfqYrdY
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Very cool indeed, although I'd prefer a much longer / slower edit of the actual ascent. Route looks like an absolute nightmare / classic of the genre. I like the chipmunk thing!
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Thought this was really good. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmWfSZ7xJbk (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmWfSZ7xJbk)
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Bouldering, buildering and chuffing. Quality for historical value (north face of Dru in 1935 etc)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HkTO97rhJHQ
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I found this video where Lucien Martinez discuss long-term projects (Fight or Flight in Oliana in this case) very interesting, but Lucien speaks quite conversational in it, so I took the liberty to add english subs (well the owner of the video edited my subs slightly, now they are closer to the French original but somewhat ... hmm... less idiomatic). Click on CC.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BUBcNT8NYCA
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I took the liberty to add english subs
Wadded.
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Really liked that Fight or Flight video. Can relate to the feelings not being so amazing if the challenge isnt so amazing. As Im sure we all can.
Then the dedication to take a year off and train intensely then rent a room for 4 months in order to climb a specific route. Its inspiring. You have to wish the guy well with it.
Im not going to give up work but I am going to get back on the proj tomorrow and dig a bit deeper with the training. Thanks Lucien - and jwi!
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Looks incredible. Wouldnt fancy that climbing with rope in mouth business though.
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nice one on the subtitles, good vid that
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Another wad for the subs, thanks jwi. Really enjoyed the video to, feels like you could show it to your grandma and they might be a little closer to understanding why you spend every weekend in some grotty limestone cave trying to link the same 5 moves together.
Apologies if this one's been posted before.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxy01Xdww9o
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<iframe src="https://player.vimeo.com/video/273573672" width="640" height="360" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Some nice footage of Tasmanian sea stacks. The first one (Slap Dancer) is a couple of miles from my in-laws place. Pity it takes about 3 days and a remortgage to get there...
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Thanks, looking forward to watching that! Slap Dancer is really hard for 27 I thought, with a really weird crux. Very good climbing, though not a sea stack!
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Sorry - its on the Organ Pipes, isnt it?
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Indeed. Just watched the vid. Nice footage but was I the only one to find both the participants highly annoying?
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I'm quite glad I didn't know that as I was able to give a completely detached opinion!
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As Tasmania goes, those three places are not off grid, but admittedly they are pretty cool bits of rock. I acknowledge the possibility/likelihood I am being a grumpy old bastard :)
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As Tasmania goes, those three places are not off grid, but admittedly they are pretty cool bits of rock. I acknowledge the possibility/likelihood I am being a grumpy old bastard :)
Yeah sorry, was more meaning Little Babylon in NZ, Peru and Serbia with that statement
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Strange thats its not credited on her Petzl team page (it is on her EB profile). Has all that stuff been cleared up?
For the sins of her father she will be forgiven. But... nobody knows really.
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Caroline Ciavaldini and James Pearson not entirely selling the climbing at Ordessa, focused around an ascent of A Critical Eye (400m 8a on trad. gear)
Part 1: driving to the crag
https://vimeo.com/287633780
Part 2: The route
https://vimeo.com/287653527
Part 3: includes a snippet of RACS which has tentatively been on mine and AJMs list. I think we might both have to find rope guns!
https://vimeo.com/287664815
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Caroline Ciavaldini and James Pearson not entirely selling the climbing at Ordessa, focused around an ascent of A Critical Eye (400m 8a on trad. gear)
Oh my God, there's going to be three of them.
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Where is driving back from the crag?
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Where is driving back from the crag?
They composted themselves instead.
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I quite enjoyed the climbing footage, but all the low impact tokenism is very vomworthy. It's all very well filming yourself recycling a plastic bottle, but if youre that arsed why are you buying a plastic bottle in the first place? I presume it's linked to the travel slow stuff on the wild country website that popped up somewhere? Deluded at best, patronising at worst.
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Literally mind numbing
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Bringing this thread back to quality videos....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dSpcVwOMSL0&feature=share
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Good to see the Ordesa footage, have wanted to climb there since hiking through the canyon almost 20 years ago. The guidebook's sitting on my shelf ready for when I get the slow bus out there!
The usual slightly vom-inducing film.. but fair play for the message they're trying to send. However hypocritical or simply attention-grabbing an exercise it may (or may not) be. It's still a good message at heart to point out the relative impact of public and non-carbon powered transport versus private carbon powered transport.
I await the first sponsored climber to promote their low-carbon worthiness by racing a Tesla model 3 to the top of Verdon. Won't be long before electric vans are commonplace.
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fair play for the message they're trying to send. However hypocritical or simply attention-grabbing an exercise it may (or may not) be. It's still a good message at heart to point out the relative impact of public and non-carbon powered transport versus private carbon powered transport.
:agree:
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AZ1ax1Vm23E
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MUX3ORVKjfk
First ascent of Les yeux plus gros que l'antre, with subs.
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Yeah machine translation has gotten so good I can no longer be bothered to translate.
Can I tempt you out of retirement to explain Les yeux plus gros que l'antre. Eyes bigger than...? It's presumably some pun or allusion which machines and school-boy french are stumbling over.
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Yeah machine translation has gotten so good I can no longer be bothered to translate.
Can I tempt you out of retirement to explain Les yeux plus gros que l'antre. Eyes bigger than...? It's presumably some pun or allusion which machines and school-boy french are stumbling over.
The route is an extension of Les yeux plus gros que le ventre (the's eyes are bigger than the belly), and translates as the eyes are bigger than the cave. Seb talks about it in this interview on the other channel (https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2018/04/les_yeux_plus_gros_que_lantre_9a+b_first_ascent_by_seb_bouin-71534).
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I believe you can say "Eyes bigger than the stomach" (Avoir les yeux plus gros que le ventre
) in English too? For "bite of more than you can chew"?
"Le ventre" sounds very similar to "l'antre". Antre is from latin antrum and is a very archaic way of saying cavern/cave which I think is the word-play here. (Antre is mostly used in the sense of "den" in current French.)
Fun fact: Seb referred to the route as "Avoir les yeux plus gros que le ventre" before he did it.
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It looks totally amazing. Why don't we have stuff like this in the uk damn it!!!
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I believe you can say "Eyes bigger than the stomach" (Avoir les yeux plus gros que le ventre
) in English too? For "bite of more than you can chew"?
You can. I didn't know the idiom translated so directly. Which gives Eyes bigger than t'ledges (E4 6a, Curbar)
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Ondra/Shark mash up...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Hk7Nym77W4
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I feel like Doylo should win some sort of award for this.
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I feel like Doylo should win some sort of award for this.
Climbing meme of the year?
Its between this and Joe Kinder by Rawk_tawk
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https://vimeo.com/284250100
Break on Through by Bob Carmichael. Roger Briggs and Duncan Ferguson climb Naked Edge in a very 1970s style: shakey camera work, oval carabiners, jazz-rock soundtrack, gratuitous nudity, dream sequences, and spectacular sideburns. Add this* to my Aims for 2019.
*spectacular sideburns, obviously
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https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6644.msg564717.html#msg564717
resurrection time?
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That mash up is totally amazing.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dr1LA5EFym8
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Nice video portrait of the legends that are Mike and Elaine Owen.
https://vimeo.com/310195153?fbclid=IwAR3QhSQYWkRHicPalTbqciO-FIt3_1CKGbIwuRaVtCvZYjveww-KoIRV7aY
Bugger, sorry - didn't realize about the privacy setting.
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Bummer, I wouldn't have watched that.
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Weird, when I first posted it it said something about it being unavailable. Anyway, everyone can enjoy it now.
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I thought that was great, thanks. Jurassic Park was wet when we visited but looking forward to summers down the Loup. As much as I bemoan the sound of drones, some of the footage was spectacular.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_fKKsqMPBZA
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Hehe.. 'mega island x'
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https://youtu.be/Km6wJHdBOkg
I enjoyed this. Its a shame you cant hear him climbing but thats the trade-off with drones I suppose. I hadnt realised how beautiful the location of the route is. :w00t:
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Can't get enough of Dreamcatcher. What a line.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CMCexFuxQeE
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https://youtu.be/W_jcWS--d0k
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Can't get enough of Dreamcatcher. What a line.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CMCexFuxQeE
Enjoyed that footage, especially the Rifle clip, that route looks so good and not as blocky as I pictured the place to be in my head.
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Lynn Hill (58) crushing The Orb (5.13b), all casual-like:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f2TsTRu0BNc
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Hannes, vilken mnniska, vilken maskin!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xGFjKjCN7Pc
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Would like to see more footage of Hannes' go, looks like some great thrashing around (see: swinging around on one arm in extremis)
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Not much chuffing in this but some more juicy shots of that tufa.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PctwmQobu2E
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The evergreen Beat Kammerlander on his route Kampfzone (8c, 8a oblig.) in Rtikon. Mandatory 8a between the bolts sounds insanely hard! Is there any other route that was put up ground up with such staggering obligatory difficulty?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DKjAbf3HQE4
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I enjoyed this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=1&v=8U0H0FCRYDk
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Some lovely climbing footage there, but the music is really overbearing and ruins most of the dialogue, which is a shame.
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Agreed. I nearly said something about how terrible the music is when I posted it.
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I agree about the music. Lots of other stuff to enjoy about it though. Im always struck by how hard and scary Gunks climbing looks- crimpy breaks with nothing inbetween and big square roofs with distant gear. :doubt: Has anyone climbed there? Whats it like?
I really think theyre barking up the wrong tree with the boo hoo no-one climbs here any more its the fault of evil social media angle though. Just make an inspiring climbing film if you want to promote an area you know is good- no one finds love by just moaning to the opposite sex how unfair it is that theyre single and blaming it on Tindr. ;)
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Im never sure why anyone wants to promote climbing areas. Better enjoyed in peace and quiet. Social media must be doing a good job!
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Has anyone climbed there? Whats it like?
I've done one 5.6 (on top rope). I enjoyed it.
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Nice video on a Stefan Glowacs route in Verdon.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TrKO-fQ3Qeg
English subs. (Thankfully, because understanding Barbara's accent is above my pay grade)
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Never mind North America pick any British sport crag or popular bouldering venue. Apart from the guy with the beard daydreaming is also a has an important part to play.
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Beautifully done, the kinesiotape and theraband bollox was a well-observed touch. Looks like it was shot in Owens River Gorge (Californias answer to The Cuttings).
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Are you sure it's set in North America, could swear its Brean Down... only part missing is the sea.
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Beautifully done, the kinesiotape and theraband bollox was a well-observed touch. Looks like it was shot in Owens River Gorge (Californias answer to The Cuttings).
For such a beautiful spot the climbing is disappointingly shit.
If anyone is in the Bishop Area and looking for good sport, Clark Canyon is much better (sorry, a bit OT).
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only part missing is the sea.
Fun and sunshine, there's enough for everyone.
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You don't get this at Snotterdale
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only part missing is the sea.
Fun and sunshine, there's enough for everyone.
But don't worry, you can suntan!
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I was really impressed by this, made Portland look amazing!
Liked the idea/effort as well
https://vimeo.com/330734760
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Yes, I enjoyed that, very down to earth and unpretentious.
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So you got it done, Pete. Nice one mate! Obviously enjoying your year out of the classroom.
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Ben Moon returns to Agincourt
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s8EujPDtKg4&feature=player_embedded
Really loved this film.
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That's ace. Great how pissed off he gets dropping Rose at the top!
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Haven't enjoyed a film that much since Buoux 8c! Can't believe the ratty lower off on La Rose, like turning up at the Louvre and finding the Mona Lisa in a clip frame - or are these routes Jo longer considered iconic except to those of us of a certain age?
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Ditto - the footage is amazing. I've got an irrationally high level of psyche for Buoux despite only having visited once in the 90s and this has pushed it up to flight-booking levels...
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Lovely! And a dashing beard too....
Yossarian....I'd go along, once elbows are fixed!
P.S. I had that cut loose picture at 8;10 on my wall, back in the day :)
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:icon_welcome:
Yossarian....I'd go along, once elbows are fixed!
P.S. I had that cut loose picture at 8;10 on my wall, back in the day :)
Lets do it...
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Id love to climb in Buoux as well. Ive always thought thats not my style but Im not really sure I have a style any more!
https://youtu.be/ZLpYN5nOs7Q
I enjoyed this. Feels a bit like it has a beginning and an end but no middle but maybe BD asked him to edit it down.
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That was great! Make you realise how much of a hero Chuck Pratt was to do this in 1965
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Id love to climb in Buoux as well. Ive always thought thats not my style
There are a lot of different styles there. But 95% of them involve pockets, so train that before you go to help avoid injury.
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https://youtu.be/xZEgeaAY0cA (https://youtu.be/xZEgeaAY0cA)
Found this hidden away on the Mammut YouTube channel. Trishul Direct (750m 7b / A2) on Shoshala in the Baspa Valley, Himachal Pradesh. Amazingly it was apparently discovered during a Fred Nicole / Bernt Zangerl bouldering trip. They had a pretty unfortunate time with the weather, but the route looks epic.
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Thanks, I really enjoyed that, low key in every sense but many lovely scenes. And Elie Chevieux!
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And Elie Chevieux!
Onsights vertical 8a off the couch, after having spent a few months working as a photo journalists, god knows where. The most talented climber of his generation.
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Jacopo Larcher climbing what might be the hardest gear protected climb in the world.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VTbWfPmsfg8
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Ace!! Looks beautiful, would like to have seen more full climb footage. Good name too. Patio hall of shame tho? ;)
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Enjoyed that, Looks fucking desperate.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EP68SOW-DWY
Nice little video of a great route. Back in the days when it was a mixed route (as in bolts+gear) I dogged Electric Avenue but wasn't a good enough climber to do it in a day.
I appreciate that neither the filmmaker nor the climber has any control over this, as I'm sure that it is BD media-team that set the title of the video, but what is up with the american style of constantly bumping the grades in magazines and videos? Electric avenue must have had at least thirty ascents by now (more than a dozen before chopping the bolts, more than a dozen after) and I never heard anyone claim that the original grade of 8a is out of line. 8a < 5.13+.
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Very nice, really enjoyed it, absolutely gagging to go back to Bohuslan now!!
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Big fall in Montserrat
https://www.instagram.com/tv/B2vkS5hgy6M/
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Nice :)
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Great stuff
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Meltdown 2nd ascent
https://youtu.be/c5lP5XbShMg
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Up to Speed (https://www.over-caffeinated sugary drink company.com/int-en/episodes/AP-1ZDNA9Z3N2511) Its not a perfect fit for this thread (couldnt find a Quality comp climbing videos thread ;) but I thought this was a really entertaining film (a perfect fit for the played-for-laughs Reel Rock style) that educated me on speed climbing and what the general publics main interest in/ reaction to climbing in the Olympics is likely to be.
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Unless it's my work blocking it, I think that the UKB conversion from "RB" to "overcaffeinated...etc" has stopped the link working.
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Oh yeah. Works if you change the url back manually in the address bar.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=94QPQQp80bw
Seb, Mamichula (and some product placements).
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Two videos of Alain Robert in all his glory
https://www.grimper.com/video-alain-robert-les-extraits-collector-solos-les-plus-fremissants
The first one shows an interview and bits of a solo of Compilation 8b in 1991
The second shows bits of Pol Pot in Verdon, surely one the most audacious Free solos of all time. Every time I rap in over the line I get nauseous at the thought that some mad cap has soloed that.
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Blue Wave had some nice climbing footage but a pretty bland overall. Also liked the comment about him pushing so hard without injury....and then showing most fingers and one shoulder mummified in tape...
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SbWvFjUIt5k
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Liked the footage in this three-part series of Nathaniel Coleman chuffing in Arizona
1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hAA8NrZpuMQ
2
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QVFq2i7_Pto
3
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lrNDkF-fRTw
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Thanks, enjoyed those. Great looking limestone for America.
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Nalle Hukkataival making that dyno on Dawn Wall look very casual: https://www.instagram.com/p/B56uoswhXGX/
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I don't think this has been posted before. What a gnarly bugger!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=1215&v=JZvhIlzV8Ec&feature=emb_logo
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I don't think this has been posted before. What a gnarly bugger!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=1215&v=JZvhIlzV8Ec&feature=emb_logo
Thats a superb - and gripping film. Watch from the beginning!
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For the love of god someone edit the timestamp out of Andy's url :geek: :ohmy:
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I don't think this has been posted before. What a gnarly bugger!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JZvhIlzV8Ec
Great find! How did he get that old I wonder?
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That is glorious, best thing I've seen for ages.
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The bit with the skyhook around 21 mins. Gripping. :blink:
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That was bloody great, what a find. Was properly sweating watching the climbing. So many nice touches too - the subtitles, as Andy says. And their bike ride. And all the bolts around his house.
Their ethics are even weirder than ours. I do wonder why one big bolt was fixed in by lead wedges and the other was allowed to be fully drilled and glued in?? Surely the upper ones could be downpointing too... Not that it makes much difference as the whole experience looked quite :blink:
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Wonderful! Totally engrossing watching him sketch up that route...
What a character!
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I thought that this video, centered around Sachi Amma's FA of Rise, 9a+, was brilliant as well
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VZbgn7hOzHc
Shit got real fast.
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I also enjoyed this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s2WyCO9PK3g
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Loved this, a nice love letter to a local crag https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=n4eazOb64ag
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Alternative title: 'If Barrows had Been Born Spanish'.
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That cave is the shittest bit of Rodellar by miles. Why the fuck anyone climbs there is beyond me, its not like there isn't any other hard routes to go at!
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Why the fuck anyone climbs there is beyond me
Less demanding than other routes of same grade is the only reason I can think of.
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Ali Logba.
It does look a lot like someone trying to link Keen Roof into some 1/4 height pox at the Tor, except not seeping.
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https://youtu.be/v04i1B3Lkdk
Not sure how quality this is, but good looking climbing. KJ does a mini big wall.
What cracks me up is how many films I've seen of him talking about how this project is under the radar, not telling anyone, just for him etc, seemingly oblivious to fact he's lugged a full film crew up with him.
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Quelle ambiance ! 😂 Papa tu peux venir m'installer le truc ?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=POiBrpixles
Never mind the screaming kids, I particularly like the italian live commentary on the fact that Moroni has to direct traffic mid route*... Charming crag that Laboratory sector...
----
* Guess work, but I think I get what "ma che cazzo fa questo" means
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The campus start 🤯
Going to need the Nibile translation for exactly what gets said to the van trying to park directly below him 😄
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Seems/sounds like a bit of a circus there now. Horrible! Is that Ted's voice we can here at one point?
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It was actually quieter in Margalef this winter than I can remember for a long time.
Its been pretty foggy so I guess people moved on to try and get away from it, and those who stayed congregated on the sunny, low-lying crags - i.e the lab.
We had the shady, minging, damp crags to ourselves most days. Cant think why...
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Bmv0KuysdI
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Phwoar! Looks thin as sin that eh! Perfect limestone too.
Nice that the guy wooo booked it said to Fabi that he had some spare time and would go up and belay him. Proper altruism.
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Thanks for that, that made me smile :)
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I love the reading of the summit book in that. In fact, summit books are just great. There's one in Yorkshire which only has a few entries and must have been there for something like 30 years now. The staples holding all the paper together have rusted and the soft pencil in the box is really blunt - I think if it was sharpened it would rip the paper. It's got Jerry Peel, Dave Musgrove, Tom Peckitt, and poignantly, Tony Barley - a Yorkshire great who has sadly passed, but who's routes and words still linger on Yorkshire's moors.
Jerry Peel's entry reads: "Some days are meant to be, and this is one of them".
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Brilliant!
[spoiler] The 'pop' at the end is such a wonderful classy touch. [/spoiler]
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https://vimeo.com/386792141?ref=fb-share&fbclid=IwAR1ER-gE2kDj_mNSxq5670hmBFeoogoG_ojVn6djUGDGYzbbD0-piI1BFzM
This is how I enjoy trad now, from a distance.
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:weakbench:Great to see that even masters of trad like Caff gibber sometimes!
Mega effort on the successful go Caff! Looks wild the whole way.
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Now that is a quality chuffing video. First time Ive felt inspired to film for ages.
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Amazing looking pitch, it looks like it goes on forever! Presume that was ground up (looks like all the placements had been marked up)?
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Caff blogged about his ascent. (http://www.jamesmchaffie.com/caffs-blog/fairhead)
Id clocked it was going to be a sandbag and on arriving at the base and looking up at it I immediately gave up on trying it without an inspection. If Ryan had been there I would have sent him up for a laugh to check out the flight paths and test some gear.
Loved the video, thanks for posting, good to see the struggle and failure of big cliff trad. climbing occasionally.
It's great to see some Fairhead too, this early June I'm planning to be be in Ceuse but time to start planning for 2021!
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Really enjoyed that - esp as I didnt know it was anyone famous etc... thought it was just someone having a great battle! Which it was...
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Someone should Chuck money at Ricky Bell to make more films, theyre always fantastic!
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Could one of the mods rename this thread Whats going to be the UKC Friday Night Vid next week?
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We could get some publicity for some of Doylo's vids.
Next time you are down the wall, you will hear people chanting "there's somebody at the door, there's somebody at the door"
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Could one of the mods rename this thread Whats going to be the UKC Friday Night Vid next week?
hahaha
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Could one of the mods rename this thread Whats going to be the UKC Friday Night Vid next week?
Let's see if this works!
'Ledge to Ledge': Yuji Hirayama on El Nino (pitch 3, Black Dike; pitch 4 Missing Link; pitch 13 M&M flake; and Steve Schneider's variation to pitch 27).
https://youtu.be/_T-BQC3r2Ho
https://youtu.be/mb-KQDf8b4Q
https://youtu.be/R4of8MXp5hw
https://youtu.be/CbWL0IhdV9s
Onsight attempt on the Salathe:
https://youtu.be/ZueiGMv4x6w
Golden Gate:
https://youtu.be/Rugviv7IsSg
Lurking Fear (Attempt, I think he didn't finish this?):
https://youtu.be/RVAIxQSy1AI
Lots more Yuji and Dai Koyamada on this channel.
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Could one of the mods rename this thread Whats going to be the UKC Friday Night Vid next week?
Hah!
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Yuji!
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a little vid from a crag I've been helping develop over the past few months:
https://youtu.be/xECHxBPfS80
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Talk about a teaser!
Crag looks good.
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Crag looks good.
We're pretty chuffed with what we've done - just wish i'd done it 10-years ago when I first spotted them...
https://hongkongclimbing.com/mount-parker-crags/ (https://hongkongclimbing.com/mount-parker-crags/)
Did a count yesterday and I've notched up over 100km of hiking (with over 4km of elevation gain) to develop this place. That bit wasn't so pleasant (but did wonders for weight loss :P)
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How many times did you fall over on the approaches? Or has yoga cured you of that?
Your bro' said you were back in the game, welcome back o' prodigal one. Looks cool. (should still be in non-quality though!)
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Yuji!
What a dude!
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Seb Bouin on La Rage d'Adam
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yITq60BZOz8
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There's some great footage in that.
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Great looking route(s), great movement, and good to see a local climbing culture still exists: the Verdon spot (pointing the drill at the climbers arse) and 'we don't need no stinkin' stick clips'!
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F me that looks hard. Good stuff.
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Just seen this on the other channel. Lovely little video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dbJ0mZfchrk
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Stunning line. The gear looked good?
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The art and craft of ground-up new routing in Adrpach https://youtu.be/JZvhIlzV8Ec
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This.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=to-JaZjx3GA
Man I so love Buoux. Best memories of my life are in this valley.
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Yep really enjoyed that
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That was very good. If the rest of the series is of this standard I'm going to get myself some EBs
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Man I so love Buoux. Best memories of my life are in this valley.
Days like this?
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49657325393_9fb878be37_b.jpg)
Photo by Steve The Pro World Industries.
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Jakob Schubert on Perfecto Mundo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nmYXe2u0juM
We were suppose to go to Margalef next week. Watching videos will have to do.
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Ermm isn't that Gav sat down behind the guy belaying in the middle?
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Ermm isn't that Gav sat down behind the guy belaying in the middle?
Yup. Early 1992 on the Plage at Buoux.
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I recognise La Plage, not too many of the climbers..although it looks a bit like Matt Saunders lowering off Exces de Zele/. Also that terrifying belaying with rope through big bit of 8 and biner only.
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John Boyle, me, chris warmsley, ian harrison, plantpot, steve Adams, Werner gamstrger, mark lowering off.
Not sure whos in the purple fleece at front.
Happy times when life was so fucking simple.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=guVZd4_huSQ
Steve Mac on Nightmayer
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Wow! Maximum sweaty palms - Steve Mac, what a legend!
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Going to get that on the telly tonight rather than watch on phone. So psyched to see it.
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I wonder if hell concede hes not just a scaredy sport climber now ;)
Hardest/gnarliest trad onsight in history?
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=guVZd4_huSQ
Steve Mac on Nightmayer
Not even a lash. Waddage.
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https://vimeo.com/215178984
Nalle Hukkataival. Silbergeier. Very little talking. 10 min of getting to the crag.
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Though not actually 10 minutes of simply driving to the crag.
Anyway, not watched it yet (it's long) but this looks like it could be good.
https://vimeo.com/401260555
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Think some driving to the crag footage would actually be pretty welcome right now. Infact, fuck the climbing, I want pure footage of driving to the crag, making a coffee, collecting your crashpads/ rope, saying hi :wave: :wank: to your mates in the car park, singing in the car, turding beneath your mates project etc etc.
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Here you go. Lots of walking, cooking, fooling around at the
crag mountain. Maybe a bit to alpine for some. But with 2 crazy Belgians :beer2:
https://youtu.be/jCjGFiftth0 (https://youtu.be/jCjGFiftth0)
(https://www.dmff.eu/wp-content/uploads/2019/08/Photo-6-NICOFAV_DSC0858-1024x683.jpg)
"The Pathan Project is now online until 15 April. The award-winning film directed by Guillaume Broust documents the 2018 climbing expedition to the Thagas Valley, Karakorum, Pakistan carried out by Nicolas Favresse, Mathieu Maynadier, Carlitos Molinan and Jean-Louis Wertz"
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These got me thinking; with such high quality material out there for free, why would anyone pay to watch a climbing film?
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Though not actually 10 minutes of simply driving to the crag.
I'd watch a film about somebody trying to drive to that crag. Icelandic style monster ice trucks etc.
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Here is something for people who do not have time for hour-long videos.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qaS5Y1Uq4O8
Agincourt, uncut video. 3 min 16 s.
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These got me thinking; with such high quality material out there for free, why would anyone pay to watch a climbing film?
I agree some absolute class films have been released lately for free. I'm not rushing to buy the latest Reel Rock 14, for example.
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Agincourt, uncut video. 3 min 16 s.
Thanks, great to watch. Is there similar footage of older ascents? Be interesting to compare how modern footwear / training / climbing "style" allows it to be climbed.
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I agree some absolute class films have been released lately for free. I'm not rushing to buy the latest Reel Rock 14, for example.
The other sections are pretty weak but Ive watched The Nose speed record feature a few times already. Happy to support Reel Rock in general due to the overall high quality of what they produce and the serious amount of hours they must put in.
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I agree some absolute class films have been released lately for free. I'm not rushing to buy the latest Reel Rock 14, for example.
The other sections are pretty weak but Ive watched The Nose speed record feature a few times already. Happy to support Reel Rock in general due to the overall high quality of what they produce and the serious amount of hours they must put in.
Worth it then?
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Here is something for people who do not have time for hour-long videos.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qaS5Y1Uq4O8
Agincourt, uncut video. 3 min 16 s.
Looks nails. Especially when you consider its 8c and hes climbed 9b/+. 1989 :punk:
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Agincourt, uncut video. 3 min 16 s.
Thanks, great to watch. Is there similar footage of older ascents? Be interesting to compare how modern footwear / training / climbing "style" allows it to be climbed.
Moony on it in Buoux 8c.
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Moony on it in Buoux 8c.
I recently picked up 80s birth of extreme for a fiver at the wall. Keen to stick buoux 8c and the jimmy jewell film online if a) anyone has any suggestions on how to do this (im clueless) and b) its considered kosher from a copyright perspective?
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If you have the time the Huber brothers film is superb.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YlOhZM1V5-E&feature=youtu.be&fbclid=IwAR1rOpPQvkn9q68IuydEVF2ktITpozh0Jz5Tqo6KemZDCkVDXUJOYKTkdsM
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Keen to stick buoux 8c and the jimmy jewell film online if a) anyone has any suggestions on how... its considered kosher from a copyright perspective?
Its not.
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Fair dos!
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Agincourt, uncut video. 3 min 16 s.
Thanks, great to watch. Is there similar footage of older ascents? Be interesting to compare how modern footwear / training / climbing "style" allows it to be climbed.
Moony on it in Buoux 8c.
I though it was, thanks
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Is Buoux 8c available anywhere to buy? I'd love to see it
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Is Buoux 8c available anywhere to buy? I'd love to see it
A quick search suggests no. I reckon 20+ year old films with limited monetary value now should be put online like Real Thing; One Summer, Rampage have (especially when theyre not even available to buy). Obviously its at the prerogative of the owner but itd be a great community service and historical record. Whats the point having the 80s DVD mothballed?
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The 80s - Birth of Extreme (with Buoux 8c) goes for really high prices at pizbube (they have *everything*) and Liberia La Montagna: https://www.mntnfilm.com/en/film/buoux-8c-1989
Very thin market I'd guess....
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I obviously defer to Cheque as someone with more skin the in copyright game, but otherwise i tend to agree with Doylo. Is Alun Hughes still contactable ? Could ask him if ok to put online?
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A quick search suggests no. I reckon 20+ year old films with limited monetary value now should be put online like Real Thing; One Summer, Rampage have (especially when theyre not even available to buy). Obviously its at the prerogative of the owner but itd be a great community service and historical record. Whats the point having the 80s DVD mothballed?
:agree: Seems such a shame that it's so hard to watch these older films, some real gems in there.
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I obviously defer to Cheque as someone with more skin the in copyright game, but otherwise i tend to agree with Doylo. Is Alun Hughes still contactable ? Could ask him if ok to put online?
Copyrights really simple on this level- as soon as you create something you own the copyright in it (its a myth that you need to register copyright although it is always a good idea to have proof that you created something in case someone claims they created it) and only you have say on how its distributed. If someone buys a copy they only buy that copy, they dont buy any of the distribution rights. Its easy to think of the law as more complicated as the internet makes it much easier to break it and much harder to police.
Where it gets more complicated is when you create something that uses something someone else has created, like making a climbing film that has someone elses music in it which is what causes the problems in a lot of these cases- the person who made the film needs to come to some sort of deal with the people who made the music before they can distribute it and it could be that they already made a deal that only covers the film being released on DVD for example.
Getting in touch with the people who made these classic films is a great idea as it could be that theres nothing stopping them going online at all. I think most of them used to be on the SteepEdge site.
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I was one of the founders and shareholders in SteepEdge with Brian Hall, John Porter, Julie Ann Tait plus Jim Curran as a silent partner. We were very excited by the project and whilst we never thought it would make a lot of money we thought that it might at least wash its face. Brian and John had access to this enormous archive of films through Kendal and knew all of the filmmakers around the world. We started it seriously just before streaming really started to take hold so pivoted quite early to be able to support streaming and downloads, plus 3G mobile had just appeared. John managed to persuade many of the filmmakers including those mentioned in the thread and the big skiing honchos, several of whom were very sceptical, to join in the project. It was tough work negotiating the copyrights and persuading people who were selling DVDs at 20 quid a pop to put their films up (not naming any names!). It was pretty complicated working out the rights, payment terms and tax for an international media distribution business.
The first year seemed to work OK, not making any money but with a reasonable level of interest and regular downloads. I was mainly on the tech side and was pushing for a much more active social engagement and events like comps 'n stuff but I had to bow out of any day to day involvement when my marriage imploded and moved to London.
We had a fantastic catalogue of climbing films including all the ones mentioned in this thread and loads of old climbing and expedition/alpine films that were impossible to see other than at mountain film festivals. Unfortunately by this time streaming was really taking off and there were so many free films and shorts available that actually paying for something seemed mad and the revenues weren't covering the costs. Jon B and Cofe at Vertebrate got involved as a parallel channel to publishing and did an absolutely brilliant job professionalising it, expanding social reach and marketing.
By this time many films were being funded by the big outdoor firms and being made available for free, partly as a brand/marketing thing but I suspect as much to do with supporting filmmakers. David Handy of Alpkit stepped in to SteepEdge in this manner until 2016 when it finally shuttered up shop.
I'm really proud of SteepEdge and that we actually managed to pull it off. With hindsight there a loads of things we could have done differently and there was certainly some naivet and best intentions but ultimately it just wasn't viable. It was great fun and hard work with lots of disagreements but I'll always be glad that I was involved.
Anyway, that's my story, I'm sure others involved will tell it differently. It would be great to have all these films available again.
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Good background FD. I used steepedge a lot for uni climbing club film nights, it was great. If you happen to have contact details for Alun Hughes please pm me and I will ask him the question about 80s Birth of Extreme; first watched it on SteepEdge.
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Sent you a PM. Thats nice to hear that you used it for film nights at Uni. Gives me a warm feeling that we did something positive.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YlOhZM1V5-E&feature=youtu.be&fbclid=IwAR1rOpPQvkn9q68IuydEVF2ktITpozh0Jz5Tqo6KemZDCkVDXUJOYKTkdsM
This was ace!
Something about seeing Dave Graham in V10s made me happy and nostalgic.
Thanks for posting that :2thumbsup: :2thumbsup: :2thumbsup: :2thumbsup:
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I agree some absolute class films have been released lately for free. I'm not rushing to buy the latest Reel Rock 14, for example.
The other sections are pretty weak but Ive watched The Nose speed record feature a few times already. Happy to support Reel Rock in general due to the overall high quality of what they produce and the serious amount of hours they must put in.
Worth it then?
For the nose speed bit yes. The bit where they both take a wipper, then sit on top mulling over the madness of it all is absolutely riveting.
And watching honnold charging up the upper section placing a piece every rope length,with Caldwell in hot pursuit. The phrase world class is probably used too often, but that epitomises it I think.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YlOhZM1V5-E&feature=youtu.be&fbclid=IwAR1rOpPQvkn9q68IuydEVF2ktITpozh0Jz5Tqo6KemZDCkVDXUJOYKTkdsM
This was ace!
Something about seeing Dave Graham in V10s made me happy and nostalgic.
Thanks for posting that :2thumbsup: :2thumbsup: :2thumbsup: :2thumbsup:
Not seen that for Donkeys. Hopefully the old flicks all end up online.
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I agree some absolute class films have been released lately for free. I'm not rushing to buy the latest Reel Rock 14, for example.
The other sections are pretty weak but Ive watched The Nose speed record feature a few times already. Happy to support Reel Rock in general due to the overall high quality of what they produce and the serious amount of hours they must put in.
Worth it then?
For the nose speed bit yes. The bit where they both take a wipper, then sit on top mulling over the madness of it all is absolutely riveting.
And watching honnold charging up the upper section placing a piece every rope length,with Caldwell in hot pursuit. The phrase world class is probably used too often, but that epitomises it I think.
:2thumbsup:
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More from the gnarly check dude. This time he decides a belayer is unnecessary as he attempts the FA of a crumbling pile of sand.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q2JDksIpxUI&feature=emb_rel_end
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Bmc are doing a live premiere of big bang on their Facebook on Fri 17th 8pm
https://www.instagram.com/p/B-uxXiLjtsJ/?igshid=1f4uv6v2jkdon
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Ace, thanks for highlighting this.
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Bmc are doing a live premiere of big bang on their Facebook on Fri 17th 8pm
https://www.instagram.com/p/B-uxXiLjtsJ/?igshid=1f4uv6v2jkdon
Hope they stick it on YouTube or something after for those of us without FB accounts!
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You can still access a Facebook Live app with an Amazon fire stick and i think some smart TVs without an account.
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Another classic from back in the day.
https://vimeo.com/406216435
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Somehow I've never seen that before - fantastic.
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Such a great film. So much good energy
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Such a great film, pads look woefully inadequate by modern standards.
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Has this made it here already? Full length film of the Huber brothers having a right fight at Mt Asgard freeing the Bavarian Direct while complaining of being too old. Great film i thought. The slow pacing really helps set the atmosphere and the dynamics between the brothers. Some quality climbing as well
https://vimeo.com/401260555 (https://vimeo.com/401260555)
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I posted it a little bit back but I don't think it got any reaction so happy to see it posted it again - I thought the relationship between the brothers was fascinating.
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I posted it a little bit back but I don't think it got any reaction so happy to see it posted it again - I thought the relationship between the brothers was fascinating.
In my whole life as a freeclimber I never tried such bullshit!
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I thought it was great, and cool to see the links between the various teams that have done it too.
One gripe though, I hate it when expedition films like this don't include the film crew or any other support in any of the story. The team dynamic would have actually been very different to the one portrayed on film if there were any other people there (and credits suggest there was at least a camera man I think). And when they get off the boat to start the big approach its suggested that it's just them and their backpacks but you then see them at base camp with big tents, cooking gear, haul bags, porta-ledges etc. They sure as hell didnt have all that on their backs when they were filming the big approach, so theirs part of the story that isn't shown.
It doesn't detract at all from what they achieved, of course.
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Another similar gripe is when films of big wall first ascents totally ignore to mention that they aided the pitches first and yet miraculously have someone with a camera hanging from a rope above them when they're climbing.
Huber film not guilty of this though, which was nice (and rare) to see.
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Great film and not totally up on big walling, but do they get to claim it as they didnt do the climb in one push? I know they did all the pitches clean between them on the trip but is that legit?
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I posted it a little bit back but I don't think it got any reaction so happy to see it posted it again - I thought the relationship between the brothers was fascinating.
I thought it was great. It also confirmed everything I'd heard about Thomas!
If I recall correctly they discussed this would be a "team free" ascent; no single person freeing all the pitches. Which they said didn't count when Todd Skinner and Paul Piana freed The Salathe!
More Hubers, this time on Eternal Flame:
https://vimeo.com/405736089
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Has this made it here already? Full length film of the Huber brothers having a right fight at Mt Asgard freeing the Bavarian Direct while complaining of being too old. Great film i thought. The slow pacing really helps set the atmosphere and the dynamics between the brothers. Some quality climbing as well
https://vimeo.com/401260555 (https://vimeo.com/401260555)
Sweaty hands moment at 41mins, yikes!
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Not watched yet but looks good:
https://youtu.be/N2N00AqMKsg
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Just finished the huber bros, ace!
The Patham project is amazing too, thanks for the links!
"we climbed at least one pitch the goats couldn't do"
😂 😂 😂
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https://vimeo.com/215178984
World's best boulderer goes big walling and attempts to justify lifestyle.
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I thought this was shite. Nicely filmed sitting about bits etc but utterly boring.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P2Xwu9XDbPY&t=128s
Not sure if this has been shared before, but an amazing looking climb, and a beautiful and poignant little film.
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that was a great video!
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I thought this was shite. Nicely filmed sitting about bits etc but utterly boring.
Agreed. To begin with I thought ooh this is different by the end I realised I had wasted 10 or so minutes of my life
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The New Deal video was great. Scott Cosgrove features in lots of classic 90s Greg Epperson mullet-tastic photos but I didn't know much about his climbing. 8b+ in 1988 is not shabby.
The 80s - Birth of Extreme (with Buoux 8c) goes for really high prices at pizbube (they have *everything*) and Liberia La Montagna: https://www.mntnfilm.com/en/film/buoux-8c-1989
Very thin market I'd guess....
8-10 on the tax dodger's marketplace. I have a copy which I'm happy to let go for a similar donation to the Dorset bolt fund.
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The New Deal video was great. Scott Cosgrove features in lots of classic 90s Greg Epperson mullet-tastic photos but I didn't know much about his climbing. 8b+ in 1988 is not shabby.
For sure, the top grade was 8c, no? Wallstreet had been done (87) but not Hubble (90)
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Bmc are doing a live premiere of big bang on their Facebook on Fri 17th 8pm
https://www.instagram.com/p/B-uxXiLjtsJ/?igshid=1f4uv6v2jkdon
Live now
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Was about as much footage of Gresh as Twyford 😂
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It was a good film but they didn't go into much detail about the route. However, I think it was pitched to a more general audience. Maybe I missed it but was Neil Carson mentioned once in the film?
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Was about as much footage of Gresh as Twyford 😂
Yeah was it a festival cut or something? Proper short.
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Was about as much footage of Gresh as Twyford 😂
Please don't spoil the ending for me....
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Would have been good to see the uncut ascent even if it was shit phone footage from below. Only showed the last few moves of the ascent.
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Bit underwhelmed. Seemed like too much good stuff was probably cut in the edit, and then not really any build up to the actual ascent.
And no training montage.
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Would have been good to see the uncut ascent even if it was shit phone footage from below. Only showed the last few moves of the ascent.
I've seen the full footage of the tick (courtesy of a lunch break at Oliana) and it is quite shit. Impressed they managed to make it look that good! What was on the film was definitely the best bit.
More generally I thought it was good but probably a bit short, and not much of a storyline. Interesting they aimed it at a wider audience.
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Fair enough. He should have lent Emma a decent camera and a tripod . Pretty important when youve put that much effort into the film.
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It was a good film but they didn't go into much detail about the route. However, I think it was pitched to a more general audience. Maybe I missed it but was Neil Carson mentioned once in the film?
Agreed, a bit more history would have been nice. Didn't Neil Carson move to Wales to complete the route. Is he still around? Would have been good to see some insights from the first ascentionist.
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He moved to France. Might be back in the UK now or I might have imagined that.
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Yeah bit underwhelmed tbh, not by the footage, I knew he wasn't there on the day but they did a decent job despite that. It just seemed pretty dumbed down which is odd. Why gresh? What's he got to do with anything? Mclure was OK but I'd have liked to have heard more about the redpoint process from him. Would have been good if he'd spoken to Carson, or at least had more about the route and its place in British sport climbing.
Lpt looked lovely in the wide shots and those routes look fantastic compared to the Peak lime that gets so much attention.
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I enjoyed all the footage, especially that of The Big Issue, maybe they could have sped up the footage of the actual send? Might have been nice to have seen it all from one perspective but guess you can get that from Doylos vid of Caff, though would have been nice to see Emmas way of climbing it.
Agree re Gresh, not to take anything away from him but he just seems so irrelevant - hes not climbed 9a and, as far as I know hasnt tried Big Bang. Maybe he went up it BITD? Caff would have been a better person to interview in more depth surely?
Like others have said Id be interested to see what has been cut out.
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Was that a one off or is it available to view elsewhere?
Trying to reserve judgement but your comments so far are in line with expectations, the only surprising thing is that it won the Palme d'or at kendal.
Anyone know if that was a different cut?
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Was that a one off or is it available to view elsewhere?
Doesn't look like it's available on the bmc facebook page any more. I guess it'll be released in full at a later date.
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I believe it will be available on Vimeo on demand in a week or so. David petts mentions when at the start of this screening.
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Was that a one off or is it available to view elsewhere?
Doesn't look like it's available on the bmc facebook page any more. I guess it'll be released in full at a later date.
I watched it via the Facebook Live app on Amazon Firestick late on Friday night, might still be there if you are lucky..
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It was a good film but they didn't go into much detail about the route. However, I think it was pitched to a more general audience. Maybe I missed it but was Neil Carson mentioned once in the film?
Agreed, a bit more history would have been nice. Didn't Neil Carson move to Wales to complete the route. Is he still around? Would have been good to see some insights from the first ascentionist.
Yep, I didn't notice a single mention, surely not that hard to track him down. If I was him I'd be a bit mffed.
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I am not sure why they used so much of Gresham but I guess it is because he has climbed hard himself (up to 8c+ I think) and therefore knows about the process of hard redpointing and is a well-known coach. As the film seemed to be pitched at a more general audience they probably wanted to use more familiar, well-known faces.
Yep, I didn't notice a single mention, surely not that hard to track him down. If I was him I'd be a bit mffed.
They may have tried to do that, I don't know, but I thought they would have at least mentioned his name as the first ascentionist (they may have done that but maybe I missed it while pouring wine or something).
It was a good short though overall and as others have mentioned the shots of LPT were really nice and the footage of Big Issue was good. My girlfriend really enjoyed it and found it inspiring to see a full film featuring a women (she hadn't previously heard of) climbing 9a. Therefore, although I just thought it was just "ok" as a film maybe I am the wrong audience.
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https://archive.org/details/theeiger
Cliff Philips' famous fall at around 11 mins
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Wow. That looked like a really bad idea.
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Jim Pope's releasing his trad vid on Youtube at 8pm this eve -don't know if it'll be available after or its just the live screening
Should be some good footage considering his ticks over the last few years
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wwo1E_vBxmM
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Cliff Philips' famous fall at around 11 mins
One is tempted to ask, which one?
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Jim Pope's releasing his trad vid on Youtube at 8pm this eve -don't know if it'll be available after or its just the live screening
Should be some good footage considering his ticks over the last few years
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wwo1E_vBxmM
This work for anyone?
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He said on the live chat thing that it was still processing at youtube's end. Hopefully up by tomorrow , been looking forward to it
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Ah OK thanks, couldn't see the live chat on telly
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Jim's flick is on at 8pm tonight
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sfDPJIbOk84o
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Fingers crossed - looking forward to this.
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They got it working this time 😄
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I had a copy of Doylos euro masterpiece - the one with the mushroom session at Ceuse, etc. I really need to see it again - Chris, can you help?
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Now on YouTube: https://youtu.be/sfDPJIbOk84
Nice one Jim! That footage of Appointment still gets me :sick:
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Really enjoyed that
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I had a copy of Doylos euro masterpiece - the one with the mushroom session at Ceuse, etc. I really need to see it again - Chris, can you help?
http://youtu.be/sCh06dM4c90 (http://youtu.be/sCh06dM4c90)
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Doylo that film is fantastic. Brought back so many memories of my own trips around Europe and the stupid shit you get up to. Top tracks and banter. Everything climbing should be!
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Really enjoyed that
Yes, very enjoyable. Lots of sketching, which always makes for entertaining viewing.
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Doylo that film is fantastic. Brought back so many memories of my own trips around Europe and the stupid shit you get up to. Top tracks and banter. Everything climbing should be!
Cheers. Back when I was free.... :'(
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Doylo that film is fantastic. Brought back so many memories of my own trips around Europe and the stupid shit you get up to. Top tracks and banter. Everything climbing should be!
Agreed - its a magnificent piece of work.
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Now on YouTube: https://youtu.be/sfDPJIbOk84
That was great, relentless 45min
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Now on YouTube: https://youtu.be/sfDPJIbOk84
Nice one Jim! That footage of Appointment still gets me :sick:
I felt emotionally exhausted after watching that! Mega.
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Cheers. Back when I was free.... :'(
I've never seen such blue bollocks, couldn't you have saved at least a few bob for a to visit a brothel?
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Cheers. Back when I was free.... :'(
I've never seen such blue bollocks, couldn't you have saved at least a few bob for a to visit a brothel?
Nah young and impoverished. I couldnt afford brothels until I got into rope access.
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Now on YouTube: https://youtu.be/sfDPJIbOk84
Nice one Jim! That footage of Appointment still gets me :sick:
I enjoyed it (who doesn't enjoy watching sketchy hard grit ascents) but with the odd exception it doesn't feel like time has moved on from the Consumed era of 20 years ago.
I'd love to see the new 8c/9a generation tackling some obvious challenges rather than going over old ground e.g.
New Statesman ground up? Surely a contender with modern volumes of bouldering mats. Michele Caminati took the ride from pretty much the last point before good gear arrives and walked away (and went back the following week(?) and did it)
Mother of Pearl repeat - has this seen much attention? Has Ben Bransby made progress on it in his quest to tick Stanage?
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Now on YouTube: https://youtu.be/sfDPJIbOk84
Nice one Jim! That footage of Appointment still gets me :sick:
I enjoyed it (who doesn't enjoy watching sketchy hard grit ascents) but with the odd exception it doesn't feel like time has moved on from the Consumed era of 20 years ago.
I can see what you mean, I was thinking something similar (and you could argue it's not actually from 20 years ago, but more like 30+ years ago for many of these routes). But I don't think it's meant to be about the cutting edge. It seemed to be about those days out with friends; having a crack at something, sometimes getting up something, sometimes not (but getting away with it anyway).
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A similar thought crossed my mind. Good to see all of these routes getting attention. A few of them must be near triple figures for ascents now. It doesn't take anything away from the film, it's not billing itself as the "sickest sends" after all. Are more people falling off these routes than in the past or was that picking out the good bits? I wouldn't fancy many of those falls!
Jim in particular is clearly strong enough to get stuck into some of the less travelled hard routes. I wonder what he's got his sights on?
Interesting to make this into a film rather than endless YouTube/insta clips.
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I wouldn't fancy many of those falls!
The one off Never Never Land is an absolute classic!
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Doylo that film is fantastic. Brought back so many memories of my own trips around Europe and the stupid shit you get up to. Top tracks and banter. Everything climbing should be!
Cheers. Back when I was free.... :'(
Just watching this now, brilliant! Would be interested to know what the "hierarchy" was on these trips you lot went on. Looks like the rest of you are having to pull out all the stops to keep close to Ryan, was that how it felt or is just me? Missing Europe watching it! :wavecry:
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Would be interested to know what the "hierarchy" was on these trips you lot went on. Looks like the rest of you are having to pull out all the stops to keep close to Ryan, was that how it felt or is just me? Missing Europe watching it! :wavecry:
Pretty much. Pascal was the inspirational, talented one. Danny wasnt far behind usually.
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Big Balls ... was great in it's straight-out-of-1998 blokeyness complete with authentic sounding soundtrack. Weird to think Jim was a foetus when Hard Grit came out! We all love to have our stereotypes confirmed and it's gained an appreciative audience across the pond who are reassured by Brits. behaving madly.
(https://cdn-uploads.mountainproject.com/forum/162616.jpg)
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:lol:
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Brilliant
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Michele Caminati took the ride from pretty much the last point before good gear arrives and walked away
Michele was extremely lucky on that occasion (missing the rock by inches) and even more so on Elder Statesman.
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Weird to think Jim was a foetus when Hard Grit came out!
I asked Jim on FB about the selection of routes, the history etc. He was kind enough to reply (hope he doesn't mind me quoting him):
"I found out about these routes from watching films like consumed which i guess is why i went to do them. And a lot for the history, meshuga/masters edge for example. I think the routes are still hard. I think with sport and bouldering when things are hard its about strength and fitness, but with these routes the strongest person might never climb them if there not strong in the head. Its a different challenge, and I think theyll stay hard challenges forever for that reason."
Yes, interesting how radically different his frame of reference is (e.g. Consumed, not Hard Grit). But it's not surprising. Quite a few of the routes in the film are are around 35 years olds. Transpose that to when I started climbing and it means routes first climbed in the early 40s. What frame of reference did I have for understanding those days?
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Absolutely loved BB&GF. A film about Jim Pope put me off climbing films completely (not just making them but watching them too) and now it seems hes made one thats got me psyched again himself.
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Michele Caminati took the ride from pretty much the last point before good gear arrives and walked away
Michele was extremely lucky on that occasion (missing the rock by inches) and even more so on Elder Statesman.
Could easily have been like the fall on Weather Report at the end of the shock of the new which is harrowing.
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Could easily have been like the fall on Weather Report at the end of the shock of the new which is harrowing.
But which the climber, incredibly, walked away from!
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Could easily have been like the fall on Weather Report at the end of the shock of the new which is harrowing.
But which the climber, incredibly, walked away from!
That's good to know! You just get the screams and then it cuts :blink:
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Confirmed by the man himself here. (https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,29632.msg575170.html#msg575170)
I always thought that the sequencing of the film was a masterstroke- you watch them all having fun and getting up the routes of their dreams without a hitch thinking looks like a right laugh this headpointing business then get smacked in the face with footage of a guy experiencing major traumatic injuries and writhing around in agony, immediately putting the successes of the preceding 50ish minutes into a new relief. Kind of spoils it when you know that he was OK!
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I wouldn't fancy many of those falls!
The one off Never Never Land is an absolute classic!
You did that with Stu Bolton IIRC. Think I flashed it on your top rope but no interest in leading it. Gnarly slopers at the top
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Absolutely loved BB&GF. A film about Jim Pope put me off climbing films completely (not just making them but watching them too) and now it seems hes made one thats got me psyched again himself.
Was it Through and Through that put you off? Totally get why if so...
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On the point about the new crews doing the old routes, I think it's correct to say that Jim is a strong wad but I think the rest might be (relative) punters? (Sorry if they're all wads and I'm mistaken).
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On the point about the new crews doing the old routes, I think it's correct to say that Jim is a strong wad but I think the rest might be (relative) punters? (Sorry if they're all wads and I'm mistaken).
Scottish Nic and Pat have done Bat Route and Mecca respectively, but it depends on what defines waddage nowadays. Has Mecca been cusped yet? Had Grimer done it?
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No, I haven't cusped Mecca yet.
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No, I haven't cusped Mecca yet.
You bloody shipwreck of a flake, why not?
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On the point about the new crews doing the old routes, I think it's correct to say that Jim is a strong wad but I think the rest might be (relative) punters? (Sorry if they're all wads and I'm mistaken).
Scottish Nic and Pat have done Bat Route and Mecca respectively, but it depends on what defines waddage nowadays. Has Mecca been cusped yet? Had Grimer done it?
Yeah Pat could still be borderline punter though he does do Meshuga in the vid... :2thumbsup:
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No not cusped me me that's for sure.
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No, I haven't cusped Mecca yet.
Growth mindset. Nice.
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On the point about the new crews doing the old routes, I think it's correct to say that Jim is a strong wad but I think the rest might be (relative) punters? (Sorry if they're all wads and I'm mistaken).
Scottish Nic and Pat have done Bat Route and Mecca respectively, but it depends on what defines waddage nowadays. Has Mecca been cusped yet? Had Grimer done it?
Yeah Pat could still be borderline punter though he does do Meshuga in the vid... :2thumbsup:
Definite punter, hes not even on insta
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On the point about the new crews doing the old routes, I think it's correct to say that Jim is a strong wad but I think the rest might be (relative) punters? (Sorry if they're all wads and I'm mistaken).
Scottish Nic and Pat have done Bat Route and Mecca respectively, but it depends on what defines waddage nowadays. Has Mecca been cusped yet? Had Grimer done it?
Can't speak for Mecca but Bat Route was cusped by Jim not long ago. To be fair it was getting minorly cusped day in and day out before that, but Jim really was the last straw.
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I enjoyed it (who doesn't enjoy watching sketchy hard grit ascents) but with the odd exception it doesn't feel like time has moved on from the Consumed era of 20 years ago.
I'd love to see the new 8c/9a generation tackling some obvious challenges rather than going over old ground e.g.
New Statesman ground up? Surely a contender with modern volumes of bouldering mats. Michele Caminati took the ride from pretty much the last point before good gear arrives and walked away (and went back the following week(?) and did it)
Mother of Pearl repeat - has this seen much attention? Has Ben Bransby made progress on it in his quest to tick Stanage?
Absolutely this. I tried to skim through to find something interesting and gave up (twice!). Same old regressive wasting of strength and skill on the same old headpoints with the rigging anchor still in shot of the same old sub-cutting edge classics that have often been onsighted / ground-upped already.
P.S. Chatted with Ben one day at Stanage while his/family's dogs were busy chewing my bouldering brush and running off with my shoe, he's put some effort into MOP but apparently it is really bloody hard and he didn't sound close.
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And I thought I was old and bitter
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You miserable cunt Fiend. It's a bunch of clips of him and his mates climbing. No sponsors, no claim to be cutting edge, who gives a fuck if it doesn't confirm to your narrow view of what's worthy.
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I thought it was good. Fiend's comment about Consumed and SOTN just underlines how good those films are.
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New Statesman ground up? Surely a contender with modern volumes of bouldering mats. Michele Caminati took the ride from pretty much the last point before good gear arrives and walked away (and went back the following week(?) and did it)
He then hurt himself quite badly, which is worth remembering.
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Bit harsh jibing it for not showing next level ascents. Its not Reel Rock, just Jim Pope the climber putting some clips of what him and his pals have been up to together and sticking It on YouTube. No big claims or film tour (still more entertaining than most pro films).
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I thought it was awesome - watching it a second time was like sitting through that first sequence of Hard Grit waiting for JMTT to fall off and smack his shin.
In a world of overblown Sprnt-esque promotional ads for tropical energy drinks, tedious talking heads, and introductory monologues about the profound emotional development engendered by being bought a fuck-off van and not having to work for 5 years, that vid was tight and tense and pleasingly lo-fi.
And CJ Bolland, obvs...
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Anyone know if there is a copy of hard grit uploaded??
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I loved it too.
And Efdemin one of my best of 2019 recs. 8)
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Ditto that amazing Donato Dozzy / Anna Caragnano track at the start.
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I enjoyed it (who doesn't enjoy watching sketchy hard grit ascents) but with the odd exception it doesn't feel like time has moved on from the Consumed era of 20 years ago.
I'd love to see the new 8c/9a generation tackling some obvious challenges rather than going over old ground e.g.
New Statesman ground up? Surely a contender with modern volumes of bouldering mats. Michele Caminati took the ride from pretty much the last point before good gear arrives and walked away (and went back the following week(?) and did it)
Mother of Pearl repeat - has this seen much attention? Has Ben Bransby made progress on it in his quest to tick Stanage?
Absolutely this. I tried to skim through to find something interesting and gave up (twice!). Same old regressive wasting of strength and skill on the same old headpoints with the rigging anchor still in shot of the same old sub-cutting edge classics that have often been onsighted / ground-upped already.
P.S. Chatted with Ben one day at Stanage while his/family's dogs were busy chewing my bouldering brush and running off with my shoe, he's put some effort into MOP but apparently it is really bloody hard and he didn't sound close.
Couldn't we all say the same about almost every climbing video that is posted on YouTube then, including yours?
So from now on no posting any vids unless its cutting edge and breaking new ground....
Please, its just a group of mates having a good time and showing the world what they have been up to. Just a lot closer to the cutting edge than the vast majority of us. As has been said its not out there pretending to be anything its not.
Give people a break. At this moment when we can't get out I'm happy to see as much climbing as i can thanks!
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I thought it was awesome - watching it a second time was like sitting through that first sequence of Hard Grit waiting for JMTT to fall off and smack his shin.
I've seen the AWD footage about half a dozen times and still flinch when his foot pops.
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Ditto that amazing Donato Dozzy / Anna Caragnano track at the start.
Soul-tingling track, isn't it? Get some headphones on for it.
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I thought it was good. Fiend's comment about Consumed and SOTN just underlines how good those films are.
Putting this on for the drive out felt like part of the routine for a number of years after I watched Consumed.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zY4SDLh7Dcs
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I used one of those YouTube-to-mp3 sites and burnt the full video soundtrack to CD, complete with loads of wind noise and fucking Bon effort sound effects :punk:
Enjoyed Jims vid. Good to see the sequence on Destructive Tendencies and his new Gardoms route
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It's worth posting yours and Neil's Consumed homage again if people are in the mood.
https://vimeo.com/110715065
21.55 mins being a personal highlight in lashing
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I dunno whos more scared here Neil!
I can tell you for sure, its me.
:lol:
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introductory monologues about the profound emotional development engendered by being bought a fuck-off van and not having to work for 5 years
(https://i.imgur.com/3db8wHn.gif)
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Ditto that amazing Donato Dozzy / Anna Caragnano track at the start.
That's quite mental indeed.
Lyrics: "Trascino un pensiero profondo, parola protratta, ritratto, promessa, ritorno protetta."
Roughly: I drag a profound thought, protracted word, portrait, promise, I'm protected again."
There you go.
:-\
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I tried to skim through to find something interesting and gave up (twice!). Same old regressive wasting of strength and skill on the same old headpoints with the rigging anchor still in shot of the same old sub-cutting edge classics that have often been onsighted / ground-upped already.
C'mon, credit where it's due - flashing Na'han (even though he pissed it obvs) isn't regressive and hadn't been done before I don't think. Plus couple of new routes. Plus a couple of the cliched headpoint routes in there involved decking out.
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I loved it, top effort for putting it together and making it available. Thought it was as nice mix of wad and non-wads. Non-wads sketching up stuff makes a good contrast to wads seemingly effortlessly cruising up things and reminds you none of the routes are 'easy' or without consequence should you fluff it. Genuine sweaty palms watching a couple of those ascents!
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I enjoyed it, strangely enough in a similar way to how I have enjoyed Fiend's recent films. Just people climbing, sometimes well, sometimes sketching, no bullshit. And that bit on AWD - that was a truly shocking moment. In that split second, regardless of the external logic of the situation, I just thought, fuck, he's dead!
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Bloody hell fiend! I loved it but I am an easy man to please. My hardest onsight to date is still VS so I find any of this extraterrestrial. Hope Dom was ok - always get a bad feeling when the crap portrait phone footage comes out!
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It's worth posting yours and Neil's Consumed homage again if people are in the mood.
Monopoly looks like such an awesome route :wub: Damn, if I didn't appreciate staying alive and having use of my legs so much... :-\
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I think what makes Fiend's comments so utterly miserable is that if the film showed cutting edge climbing then he'd be in absolute bits about how it was all a big showing off puff piece for the sponsors. For God's sake, man! Decide!
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I really think we should stop piling on Fiend. The film didn't work for him, he didn't find it inspiring and expressed that in probably not the most tactful way. But we all have different tastes and many climbing films people love, I don't get. In this case I really enjoyed Jim's film and found it quite nostalgic (as others have mentioned). But maybe it just felt like already well worn ground to Fiend and so he didn't enjoy it. He is entitled to his opinion but I think we should stop the the berating.
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I had never seen either consumed or shock of the new before now. Watched them after watching Jim's video. All proper simple climbing videos with some hard, some beautiful, some scary, and some crazy stuff. Thanks all for sharing those!
More please? :popcorn:
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Just watched the intro to Consumed. Not seen it for about 10 years. Had totally forgot about Dan falling off Unfamiliar and elbowing me in the temple. I could only eat soup for a week after that. Hadnt forgotten the Knocking belay though :ohmy: Class those films.
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Sorry, Ive got confused - who is Nan / Some Shit New Climbers? Because thats a brilliant little film too...
I had a brief climbing resurgence in the mid 2000s when Id finally recovered from my calcaneus-crushing sleepclimbing accident, had a small board at home, and had not yet met my wife-to-be. Having previously watched HG to death, that entire period was fuelled by Doylos two films, and a copy of Shock of the New that Nik sent me. When I subsequently watched the professional films of that era - various Dosages, etc - I found them mostly lacking in comparison.
The only thing missing from Doylos oeuvre was a mashup of the two films, detailing a Yosemite big wall ascent with a portaledge mushroom session and competitive, Who can shit into the poop tube from the furthest away...
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The only thing missing from Doylos oeuvre was a mashup of the two films, detailing a Yosemite big wall ascent with a portaledge mushroom session and competitive, Who can shit into the poop tube from the furthest away...
I can pencil that in for the WCG 20 year anniversary trip in 4 years.
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I think Fiend's caught some flak because his reasoning seems like nonsense and contrary to what he normally looks for. Personally, I got bored halfway through this new thing, Consumed, SotN, and Some Shit New Climbers. But that's because I've got a child's mind and need a bit of narrative to keep me engaged. That said, I've watched them all in stages and enjoyed them all for what they were.
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Sorry, Ive got confused - who is Nan / Some Shit New Climbers? Because thats a brilliant little film too...
Mark Rankine and Neil (can't remember his last name).
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I am struggling coming to terms with your YOB being 1989, and also your getting bored through this new thing. You were about 12 when Consumed came out. Surely a techno-themed narrativeless banger was your formative experience, rather than Chris Bonnington struggling to squeeze out the nugget revealing his reasons for travelling to Nepal in 1982..
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In a slight change of pace...
Dani Andra develops a four pitch 8a 'Ocho Veranos con Bruna' in the Desfiladero de la Hermida, a huge gorge just east of the Picos de Europa. It gives a good flavour of the area that probably has more rock than Wales. If you don't fancy the epic approach, Rumenes (https://rocaverdeclimbing.com/?p=583) has similar style single-pitch climbing 10 minutes from the road.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3TSMP7Kmh8
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I had never seen either consumed or shock of the new before now. Watched them after watching Jim's video. All proper simple climbing videos with some hard, some beautiful, some scary, and some crazy stuff. Thanks all for sharing those!
More please? :popcorn:
Ricky Bell has uploaded his old film Underdeveloped to his vimeo. Another great video
https://vimeo.com/406216435
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Sorry, Ive got confused - who is Nan / Some Shit New Climbers? Because thats a brilliant little film too...
Mark Rankine and Neil (can't remember his last name).
Neil Furniss. He had a great year just after he put the video together, Simba's Pride, Meshuggah, S Groove, Gigantic, Boom Bip, then lost interest. Came back briefly last winter and did The Joker. More into Dungeons and Dragons again now :whistle:
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In a slight change of pace...
Dani Andra develops a four pitch 8a 'Ocho Veranos con Bruna' in the Desfiladero de la Hermida, a huge gorge just east of the Picos de Europa. It gives a good flavour of the area that probably has more rock than Wales. If you don't fancy the epic approach, Rumenes (https://rocaverdeclimbing.com/?p=583) has similar style single-pitch climbing 10 minutes from the road.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3TSMP7Kmh8
Enjoyed that, he looked absolutely boxed trying to drill the hole from that kneebar. Drove through the area on the way to Naranjo but didnt know what we were looking at. Great river for swimming down at the bottom.
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Enjoyed that, he looked absolutely boxed trying to drill the hole from that kneebar.
Don't know if there were subtitles or what they were like, but he was shouting down that the block was moving and he and the block might go flying together at any time... :blink:
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Enjoyed that, he looked absolutely boxed trying to drill the hole from that kneebar.
Don't know if there were subtitles or what they were like, but he was shouting down that the block was moving and he and the block might go flying together at any time... :blink:
When I was in Rodellar Andrada was cleaning and bolting a new route in the Piscineta. It had fixed ropes on. Dani was using a grigri and ascender to jug up the ropes but everytime he bounced up he would snap his head back violently. It took us a while to work out that he was pulling the slack through the grigri with his teeth! That and the fact the fixed ropes were rubbing in about 20 places without a rope protector in sight made us question his sanity :o
The route i was trying was adjacent to his new route and after i fell off I dogged to the top. I was halfway through lowering off when it dawned on me that the big ramp I was going to alight onto was also where the massive chunks of rock that Dani was levering off with a hammer were exploding. After frantically getting Al to stop lowering me we both shouted at Dani trying to get his attention. He was completely engrossed in the cleaning work and deaf to the world. Eventually he looked up. The conversation went something like this:
Dani!
Que?
...la roca...uno momento?
Ah...perdon, eh?
As soon as i was clear the rocks started coming down again!
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The classic route-cleaning trundle vid:
https://vimeo.com/210319644 (https://vimeo.com/210319644)
I never use a rope protector when bolting new routes except at the top edge, usually my pack clipped to the rope. Can usually manage by isolating the rope into the bolts or gear as you go down. The higher risk activity is when scoping out new routes but not bolting. Ive jugged back up more than a couple of times to find the sheath rubbed through to the core while I was scoping out routes. I have access to a few hundred rope protectors so should do better.
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The classic route-cleaning trundle vid:
https://vimeo.com/210319644 (https://vimeo.com/210319644)
:o
When we were at Sutton and I'd just climbed Black Annis, John started to look at the direct finish. This was a few easy moves up from where I'd gone right to access a nice ramp - the issue being the huge damoclean block hanging over the edge of the crag like a diving board. The crag is perched on top of a cliff with a good drop into the clough below - which has a footpath running through it.
"Is there anyone down there, Will?"
"Errrr, I dunno. I can't see down there"
There was then a pause in which you could hear the cogs of John's brain trying to work out what the odds were of him hitting someone, and what might become of his life if he did.
The block hit some big trees on the way down and nearly took them out. The way their tops shook it was like Godzilla was walking through the clough.
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https://youtu.be/YPEHKwF1LAU
I quite liked this. Nice to know hes still psyched out of his bonce, climbing into the night on what looks like a traversing link up similar to Brian at Ansteys.
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https://youtu.be/YPEHKwF1LAU
I quite liked this. Nice to know hes still psyched out of his bonce, climbing into the night on what looks like a traversing link up similar to Brian at Ansteys.
It's weird, that almost sounds like you're suggesting that Brian isn't a world class line at a world class crag.
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https://youtu.be/nYvZdNyyWG8
Enjoyed this! The Mellow lads put out some good stuff!
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https://youtu.be/YPEHKwF1LAU
I quite liked this. Nice to know hes still psyched out of his bonce, climbing into the night on what looks like a traversing link up similar to Brian at Ansteys.
It's weird, that almost sounds like you're suggesting that Brian isn't a world class line at a world class crag.
;D Youve got to be psyched for it is all I'm saying.
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Enjoyed this! The Mellow lads put out some good stuff!
Great, great route name too.
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Assorted warmups in Verdon
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WqdN4BeyATs
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That's another great video in the series. 8b+ on the grey... ahh. Taking the crimp home is quite funny. I wonder what we'd say now?
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Enjoyed that. JB now looks like an ageing matinee idol. Great story about Les Specialists: climbing is so much more fun when bitter rivalries are acknowledged.
Somehow I was last in the Verdon more than 8 years ago. Its about time...
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That's the best of the series so far I think, excellent.
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Great story about Les Specialists: climbing is so much more fun when bitter rivalries are acknowledged.
I was surprised when I discovered how much bitterness there still is between the two groups alluded to. At least among some of the old protagonists. But JB seems very chill about it these days (and very chill in general, not only on film but when you are running into him at the crags as well).
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...and very chill in general, not only on film but when you are running into him at the crags as well.
https://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=Humble%20Brag ;D
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Chris says hi.
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I'm looking forward to watching this when I get a chance. The trailer looked promising.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5dQNlUi7DcM&fbclid=IwAR0r4qJq94KqBa9M8QyUaoHPdOnFKGVm3TAQkUfekscMkQqt1nCAftqwh5I
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https://youtu.be/KJ2GBjwf5CI
Probably most of you have seen this already but I thought this was quite gripping: Ondra well out of his comfort zone on the Indian Creek offwidth Belly Full of Bad Berries.
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The Pertex one is good as a general film about a place I know very little, and some nice characters, but not an enormous amount of climbing. That which is shown is good footage though.
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https://youtu.be/KJ2GBjwf5CI
Probably most of you have seen this already but I thought this was quite gripping: Ondra well out of his comfort zone on the Indian Creek offwidth Belly Full of Bad Berries.
I was going to post this but it was a bit lot OTT Black Diamond...
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Al Hughes' 80s Birth of Extreme is up on the BMC youtube channel.
https://youtube.com/watch?v=Jkj3Buhfi2k
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https://youtu.be/KJ2GBjwf5CI
I thought this captured the effort and desperation of someone at the end of their tether better than most climbing videos, and the fact it was Ondra struggling so only compounded the impression.
Indeed right up until the very end of the footage (spoiler alert), I had assumed that he was going to fail on that particular attempt...
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[already posted, sorry]
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nNbQ8pVzY9w
really enjoyed this, just watching that mantel hurts my shoulder though.
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just watching that mantel hurts my shoulder though.
forget your shoulder... its my right knee exploding that I'd be worried about.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0YtMdyNyoWs
OG on Wog. Back when climbers in the Alp were held to higher standards (RP = no fall ascent. A single fall = back around, come back another day.)
Beat Kammerlander's has an eclectic mix of videos on his youtube channel.
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This has it all: a downgrade from 8c to 7c, a Sean Myles one-hang and an amusing story about a zen-mystic who shied away from success.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NaOTNIOiIW0
quality
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This has it all: a downgrade from 8c to 7c, a Sean Myles one-hang and an amusing story about a zen-mystic who shied away from success.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NaOTNIOiIW0
quality
Have been enjoying the "When Mason Earle Came to Town" series on the same channel. More quality vids including sandbagging and mates getting body parts stuck in various cracks/grooves ;D
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One of the other videos in that series contained my favourite climbing quote for a while:
"It's overhanging slab climbing from here" ;D
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great little film about a recently developed crag in HK - looked at this place for years but never got round to it... (largely cos i hate off-widths). Turns out the crag also has a bunch of stuff up to F8c too tho...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HwTG5fKM-N0
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That was a nice video :)
Also watched the Wall Within one, great footage of a cool route. Normal filming starts at 1:00 (after the awful retro-strobing effect thing), climbing starts at 1:55 (after the obligatory faff, their coffee looks weak as shit), and don't expect to be able to hear any commentary above the rather pleasant soundtrack.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H6G5s33U4Go&feature=emb_title don't expect to see any more than two moves in a row, but it's Sharma on an 8b+ DWS in a beautiful location.
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Nice day in the office.
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Looks like heaven!
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Thats one fucking awful film - of some great climbing!
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It's like they tried as hard as they could to make me dislike watching Sharma DWSing flawless limestone. Between this and Magnus Midtbo's channel, I am seeing a trend in climbing vids with really unsatisfying climbing.
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My assumption with things like that is theyre edited by non-climbers.
Like if you talked to your work colleagues about what you really enjoyed about the route you climbed at the weekend their eyes would glaze over then theyd interject about portledges or Alain Robert or something, I picture editors rolling through the climbing footage thinking this is all the same, Ill have to cut between angles every few seconds to spice this up then getting to a chalking-up/ gear-racking shot like oh yeah, this is the good stuff.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-r3cofAeN_Y
Liked this though.
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My assumption with things like that is theyre edited by non-climbers.
Like if you talked to your work colleagues about what you really enjoyed about the route you climbed at the weekend their eyes would glaze over then theyd interject about portledges or Alain Robert or something, I picture editors rolling through the climbing footage thinking this is all the same, Ill have to cut between angles every few seconds to spice this up then getting to a chalking-up/ gear-racking shot like oh yeah, this is the good stuff.
Yeah I usually put it down to this, but then again, surely someone like Chris Sharma is likely to attract an editor who actually enjoys climbing? Am I wrong in claiming that it is very likely to be edited by the people filming it? In which case, they would at least have some competency. Each to their own I guess, clearly this is what the youtube bots are inadvertently pushing us towards :-\
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https://youtu.be/9ubA6A8Y8yw
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https://youtu.be/Sshk3rLNjlc
Pete Whillance E5 FA. Id seen a photo from this in the Gable and Pillar guide but didnt realise it was from a film. :ohmy: Amazing how calm Whillance is on runouts with no helmet and a bloody Swami belt!
Im always stunned by how in the 60s, 70s and early 80s (This is from 84 apparently) there were documentaries on normal TV with immersive 20-minute sections of uninterrupted trad climbing footage, with high quality natural sound, seemingly no reconstructed close-up shots or even music over the top. Today its incredibly rare to find that in specialist online climbing films, let alone on BBC2!
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The only sound effect or setup I like in trad films are where theyve micd the climber. Listening to them chuntering, breathing heavily, swearing - whatever - that really sets the mood for me more than any swelling music.
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The only sound effect or setup I like in trad films are where theyve micd the climber. Listening to them chuntering, breathing heavily, swearing - whatever - that really sets the mood for me more than any swelling music.
A great example is Martin Wood's solo of Wellington Crack at the end of this film, "Lines of Flight" (apologies: I appear earlier on talking rubbish over some footage of The File).
https://vimeo.com/167817286
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Im always stunned by how in the 60s, 70s and early 80s (This is from 84 apparently) there were documentaries on normal TV with immersive 20-minute sections of uninterrupted trad climbing footage, with high quality natural sound, seemingly no reconstructed close-up shots or even music over the top. Today its incredibly rare to find that in specialist online climbing films, let alone on BBC2!
Class! Better than all the Mellow stuff put together!
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BPQcNxNC5j8
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https://youtu.be/Sshk3rLNjlc
Pete Whillance E5 FA. Id seen a photo from this in the Gable and Pillar guide but didnt realise it was from a film. :ohmy: Amazing how calm Whillance is on runouts with no helmet and a bloody Swami belt!
Im always stunned by how in the 60s, 70s and early 80s (This is from 84 apparently) there were documentaries on normal TV with immersive 20-minute sections of uninterrupted trad climbing footage, with high quality natural sound, seemingly no reconstructed close-up shots or even music over the top. Today its incredibly rare to find that in specialist online climbing films, let alone on BBC2!
Mesmerising!
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https://vimeo.com/449058597
Follows a very well-worn Yosemite film groove (seems mad to release a film in 2020 and describe the distinction between the Boulder Problem and Teflon Corner pitches on Freerider without even mentioning Free Solo) but I really enjoyed it.
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Literally just watched it was about to post, beat me to it!
Really nice wee video, and, personally, quite glad it didn't mention free solo. The whole video was so much more inspiring and relatable.
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https://vimeo.com/449058597
Follows a very well-worn Yosemite film groove (seems mad to release a film in 2020 and describe the distinction between the Boulder Problem and Teflon Corner pitches on Freerider without even mentioning Free Solo) but I really enjoyed it.
This was wildly inspiring!
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I should have probably said alluded to the fact that anyone whos seen Free Solo (which is surely the entire audience for this film) will be familiar with the distinction.
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Really enjoyed that!
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What an excellent film.
What's with the fixed cable draws on the Teflon corner though? I've seen those on a few spirt crags in the states, but seems pretty overkill up there, or am I missing something?
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I was thinking that they are an american version of the chasse d'eau? The bolts are inconveniently high placed for climbers on the onsight, so they have fixed extenders? The french would just tie a bit of tat directly to the bolt and call it good, but I have a feeling that they are more attached to metal in the US.
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That makes sense.
I was quite dismayed at the amount of fixed kit on sport routes over there, often when just no need (I. E. Not steep or difficult to strip). Some of it was the cable draws like in the vid, which are just really ugly. Some of it was old quickdraws which were just really dangerous. I fell off high up on darkness at noon in Smith Rock, and heard a loud scraping sound. Looked up after the rope came tight to see the sheath had come off and was down to core only. Terrifying. I proceeded to take all the fixed draws off, as they all had sharp worn edges, intending to throw them in the bin. Got a right earful from a local, even when I showed him my rope, and a news report of a guy who had died in Switzerland the week before from the same thing.
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I agree. Fixed draws is a lot more dangerous than people think. That's why I like the french way with a piece of cord directly through the bolt: you clip your own draw in the sling, and there is no stupid quick link of inferior strength that has rusted shut and is impossible to replace without specialised tools. Just take a knife to the tat if you think it is bad and replace it with a new piece.
I have the feeling that we are seeing less and less of fixed draws on crags around the mediterranean. I used to always bring pliers so that I could remove fixed draws, but it doesn't seem to be worth the bother any more. Maybe I am going to different crags 🤷🏽♀️
The wire draws are a nightmare to grab and a real eye sore to boot.
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Got a right earful from a local, even when I showed him my rope, and a news report of a guy who had died in Switzerland the week before from the same thing.
Fucking hell, that's mental that you could be standing there with a cored rope in one hand and a load of shitty fixed draws in the other and still gotten a dressing down.
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Great little film, didn't give much reason why he didn't give the boulder problem option a bit more work?
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It was a great film, but I do wish we could have seen more of Mark climbing on his free-as-can-be ascent. Would have been great to watch him on the Enduro Corner or the Freeblast.
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Got a right earful from a local, even when I showed him my rope, and a news report of a guy who had died in Switzerland the week before from the same thing.
Fucking hell, that's mental that you could be standing there with a cored rope in one hand and a load of shitty fixed draws in the other and still gotten a dressing down.
Not to mention the article describing the recent death of someone who had their rope chopped on an old fixed draw. Apparently it wasn't my place to decide such things.
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I loved that film. Starting in the late 70s, it was natural I grew up on tales of Hudon and Jones in Mountain magazine. They seemed like wild, rather unknowable characters, outside the mainstream. What a delight then to find out Hudon is such a lovely man; funny, lighthearted, full of joy. He wears his heart on his sleeve and his emotions on the surface. His relationship with his young partner was very touching. Some very good climbing scenes too I thought. I was gripped watching him battle the Teflon Corner, not knowing the outcome.
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I even got psyhed on Freerider. Started to google topos and stuff, thinking that it could be a vanity project for my 50-years birthday or something. Then I remembered it is in the US, would require an unnecessary transatlantic flight considering how much rock there is in the alps, and that it has tons of crack climbing which I am not doing anymore and which would require specific training.
Will have to find a more suitable vanity project nearer to home
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When I went to Tahoe in 1979 I got myself a Strawberry Mountain chalk bag and swami belt just like Hudon and Jones used to wear. No idea what happened to them. I did meet Max Jones when he was on a UK visit.
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Great little film, didn't give much reason why he didn't give the boulder problem option a bit more work?
I thought the same.
Also interesting to see that the younger guy used a different sequence to Honnold on the boulder problem, made it all look pretty steady, did the ninja kick into the corner thing, and then STILL fell off. Puts Honnold's solo into even more perspective...
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Great little film, didn't give much reason why he didn't give the boulder problem option a bit more work?
I guess as hes a proper trad daddy he may not have ever bouldered 7b+ and therefore wouldnt have much of a shot at the boulder problem. Also seem to remember reading (when Haze did it maybe?) that its a lot harder if youre short and he looks really small.
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Feel bad for him that at the one point on the route where there are two choices they are both super knacky boulder problems. Feel he would have crushed a 5.13 splitter.
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I would have thought that he must think that if hed been allowed the ethics of today I.e. rapping down to practice the moves and placing bolts. He and Max could have free climbed El Cap in the late 1970s.
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I know it's not as good as being able to say "free" but two points of aid on a rock that big - it's not bad is it?
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Loved that. So much more 'soul' than Free Solo.
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Great little film, didn't give much reason why he didn't give the boulder problem option a bit more work?
I guess as hes a proper trad daddy he may not have ever bouldered 7b+ and therefore wouldnt have much of a shot at the boulder problem. Also seem to remember reading (when Haze did it maybe?) that its a lot harder if youre short and he looks really small.
I wondered about the reach thing watching the other guy do it. Must be workable though, rather than trusting feet to smearing on glass.
Agree webbo, such a different time and place though.
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What became of Max Jones (I could google). Thought it was strange that there was no real mention of him.
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I remember seeing their names come up on Enormocast Podcast, but never listened, might do that now.
https://enormocast.com/2018/06/episode-152-mark-hudon-and-max-jones-as-free-as-can-be/
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Great little film, didn't give much reason why he didn't give the boulder problem option a bit more work?
I guess as hes a proper trad daddy he may not have ever bouldered 7b+ and therefore wouldnt have much of a shot at the boulder problem. Also seem to remember reading (when Haze did it maybe?) that its a lot harder if youre short and he looks really small.
Mark is 5 2.
I would have thought that he must think that if hed been allowed the ethics of today I.e. rapping down to practice the moves and placing bolts. He and Max could have free climbed El Cap in the late 1970s.
I wondered about this too. Well never know but my guess is close but no cigar. Font. 7b+ was world class then and these guys were not really boulderers. The weird thing is why Kauk - who clearly was physically capable - didnt try.
What became of Max Jones (I could google). Thought it was strange that there was no real mention of him.
Max took up mountain biking, reached a very high level in this, and runs a mountain biking centre in Tahoe. He and Mark teamed up again and climbed several El Cap. aid routes including Reticent Wall in 2011-14. As Chris says, there is a good enormocast featuring the two of them: https://enormocast.com/episode-152-mark-hudon-and-max-jones-as-free-as-can-be
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:2thumbsup:
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While translating, editing and expanding my twenty page blogpost on Verdon, I came across this extract from the film La porte des Cieux. The first French film to showcase free climbing, I've been told
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9huFfHVnuZg
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A little gem. Shoulder belays and abseils without knotted ends- captures a different era. Merci.
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The Jordan and Mark film is sooo good! I followed them both on Instagram a while back after hearing The Enormocast, but hadnt fully grasped Marks history. We were driving back from Font last night, stuck in Paris traffic (and missed our ferry) listening to Hangdog Days, and finally realised what a badass he was. Doing the second ascent of the Phoenix (without cams) mustve felt hardcore...
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I also enjoyed the film, and like Yossarian follow them on Instagram. Strong Graeco-Roman vibe on both which I find extemely sweet.
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Im always stunned by how in the 60s, 70s and early 80s (This is from 84 apparently) there were documentaries on normal TV with immersive 20-minute sections of uninterrupted trad climbing footage, with high quality natural sound, seemingly no reconstructed close-up shots or even music over the top. Today its incredibly rare to find that in specialist online climbing films, let alone on BBC2!
TV was just done at such a different pace back then. Last year I attempted to watch Blake's 7 - for the youth, that's a late 70s BBC science fiction series - which I'd known about as a kid but I was a bit too young for at the time. The ideas were good and the acting just fine, but it was so slow as to be almost unwatchable. Same when I went back to Day of the Triffids, which I remember as being totally thrilling when it first came out, but again, it was so slow to my 21st century eye.
Old TV works really well when it was basically filming a play, so I, Claudius is still a really good watch (if you can ignore the rickety sets, but what's an imagination for).
That Fawcett film where he's in the Verdon is a similar level of slow and immersive footage. It's just great.
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https://vimeo.com/449058597
Follows a very well-worn Yosemite film groove (seems mad to release a film in 2020 and describe the distinction between the Boulder Problem and Teflon Corner pitches on Freerider without even mentioning Free Solo) but I really enjoyed it.
Ive been waiting to sit down and watch this after all the comments on here and now its bloody password protected! :slap:
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Ali, if it makes you feel any better it was easily the best climbing film ever made, ever. Apparently it will never be available to watch ever again. Hope that helps.
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https://vimeo.com/449058597
Follows a very well-worn Yosemite film groove (seems mad to release a film in 2020 and describe the distinction between the Boulder Problem and Teflon Corner pitches on Freerider without even mentioning Free Solo) but I really enjoyed it.
Ive been waiting to sit down and watch this after all the comments on here and now its bloody password protected! :slap:
Karma for route hogging, you evil bastard.
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https://youtu.be/Sshk3rLNjlc
Pete Whillance E5 FA. Id seen a photo from this in the Gable and Pillar guide but didnt realise it was from a film. :ohmy: Amazing how calm Whillance is on runouts with no helmet and a bloody Swami belt!
Im always stunned by how in the 60s, 70s and early 80s (This is from 84 apparently) there were documentaries on normal TV with immersive 20-minute sections of uninterrupted trad climbing footage, with high quality natural sound, seemingly no reconstructed close-up shots or even music over the top. Today its incredibly rare to find that in specialist online climbing films, let alone on BBC2!
This is amazing to watch, he looks strong and fit. Id like to know more about his process and how he worked up to the grade. Those biceps!
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he looks strong and fit. Id like to know more about his process and how he worked up to the grade. Those biceps!
Overwhelmingly just by climbing - a lot! There were walls, of a sort, but I don't think anyone was doing anything approaching structured or systematic training; maybe Jerry and Ben, but not the trad folks. I really think it's as a simple as that.
When I was starting out, Whillance and all that crew were in the magazines all the time - I always had them down as the archetypal northern hard man bastards - but if you've ever seen the little film about Eden valley sandstone (which I really enjoyed) Whillance actually comes across as a rather lovely gentle bloke.
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Enjoyed that enormously. Loved the chatter between them.
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I really enjoyed this slow climbing movie by Andy Moles.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GCc7DI4lQgQ
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https://youtu.be/Y9I9C9CZ3lc
Some good Ceuse footage and general chat about the place. Gutted I didn't get there this year. Maybe next...
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It was really a lot nicer in Cse this summer than previous years, due to Corona. Quite a lot of people, but they generally behaved normally at the crag. So much so that I became somewhat chauvinist.
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Well you were in France...
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XpmL0XrjE3o
Need to get back up there sometime, probably not to do Dave and Iain Small's routes though.
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https://youtu.be/7pgDQ4384pI
Groove Train looks amazing
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Never mind all that. This is the best climbing video of all time.
https://youtu.be/n6JrnE77MEQ
it has twenty-seven kneebars, seventeen minutes of allez/venga and Citro on a ladder, holding up a fan.
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Citro putting a remarkable shift in there with the fan. Quality stuff
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"Super, Dave. Continue."
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it has twenty-seven kneebars, seventeen minutes of allez/venga and Citro on a ladder, holding up a fan.
The game's gone, Clive
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The minion holding a fan was strangely absent in Daves had a go when I was tired, didnt expect to get very far humblebrag write-up.
Every time I see a video of this route I think this cave start seems a bit contrived, must come out onto an amazing cliff to be so famous then the climber turns the lip and it looks like Pleasley Vale. :lol:
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If I had a living legend following me around with a fan, I don't know if I would brag about it or be quietly ashamed.
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I'd have thought it'd almost certainly have been shared here before, but on the topic of Groove Train & the best climbing video of all time I humbly submit this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-PsXKda6JU&list=PLa1Nyx0PvGLDNArm8V02A1MROIzbHOdOI&index=1
Might not have 27 kneebars but it does have 7 rads, massive runouts and the best looking cliff face in the world.
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Always good to watch this again. "fuck I'm the fucking best!"
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never apologise for linking that video - should be mandatory to list it at least annually on this thread
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Brilliant battle, not seen that before.
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Re: previous video. I do love all 56kg of Dave G, but fucking hell I got bored even skipping through that, after the novelty of "fan guy" wore off anyway ::)
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I absolutely love the footage of that top section on Groove Train. A highlight of Doylo's emotional tear-jerker The Climb, which has no doubt been linked before but bears linking again. Remember that it came out just before the first lockdown ended. Have the Kleenex handy.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ew2RCWKFCt4
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No need; mute is enough.
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Some lovely looking far away granite.
https://www.verticallifemag.com.au/2018/09/flinders-island/
http://vimeo.com/466368580?fbclid=IwAR0gfUbaWVPbomLwJm6JG7t09RsL1xD4FYq2XczVQwU-Mv3vvaz6Kb-aWLY
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Some lovely looking far away granite.
https://www.verticallifemag.com.au/2018/09/flinders-island/
http://vimeo.com/466368580?fbclid=IwAR0gfUbaWVPbomLwJm6JG7t09RsL1xD4FYq2XczVQwU-Mv3vvaz6Kb-aWLY
That was brilliant. Glad to see Simon's mullet is still going strong. Flinders looks ace, they were just starting to develop it when I was in Tasmania a few years ago. Now that its all gone to shit at Arapiles and the Grampians maybe Tasmania will see more attention.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X7w7nokBIMc&feature=youtu.be
Frankenjura 2002, feat. Andy Harris and Rich Heap
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P2Xwu9XDbPY apologies if repost, this is excellent.
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I posted it back in April, agree it's excellent. I really like the Giant Rock films, wish they did more like this.
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There was an April this year?! >:(
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it passed in a drunken stupor.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yj7ZCYMgSvw
Some might think this is usual Patagonia fare, but I really enjoyed it. Some quite moving parts, and beautifully filmed.
(Apologies if it's a repost).
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https://youtu.be/VrGnTmoon9E
More from Australia. Lovely looking line.
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Just watched that! Lovely rock and line and some cool footage. The guys are very youthful.
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https://youtu.be/AotAo0OFCIg
Full Film
The Fanatic Search 2
Old French video. Really wish I was good enough to do the 8a+ multipitch Nina Caprez in the Verdon
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Watched that last night. Only a French climbing film would start with the line In the beginning, as we well know, man placed his seed in the womb of the woman :lol: Funny how many shots of the heroines sunbathing on rest days there are too.
Really enjoyed the sequences of climbing, particularly the Verdon stuff. Easy to watch something like that and not appreciate just how fucking hard it will have been to shoot it, particularly with good sound. Would be a really good hour long film with a more judicious edit.
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Yeah a lot of faff
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I enjoyed this. Okay, no-one on this forum needs interludes on trad versus sport and how bolts work, but I thought it captured the game well. I found myself emotionally invested on Rhys' and Callum's redpoints. Hannah and Emily's adjustment from indoor comp to outdoors was also interesting (as someone who is their opposite - physically feeble but wily). The basic message: climbing in the UK involves bleeding, mud, and frustration .
https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/m000pd45/the-adventure-show-202021-the-super-crag
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I really enjoyed this...amazing crag.
The obvious question is this.
Why hasnt Rhys got a set of knee pads?
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Perhaps he wants to remove any possibility of temptation to the dark side if he gets to try Hubble?!
Also, there was one of the local experts who advised that while Rhys was resting on double heel-hooks he could also hook a gear loop on a knobble to take some weight off! Are aided rests (but only being allowed to use carpet tiles for kneepads) some bizarre Scottish ethic I was previously unaware of!
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Citro putting a remarkable shift in there with the fan. Quality stuff
Dave Graham repaying the favour.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CE17rH5AjCe/
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https://youtu.be/COuxNFuAS1Q
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Also, there was one of the local experts who advised that while Rhys was resting on double heel-hooks he could also hook a gear loop on a knobble to take some weight off!
I think that was just Duncan McCallum's weird commentating style.
Are aided rests (but only being allowed to use carpet tiles for kneepads) some bizarre Scottish ethic I was previously unaware of!
As far as I know proper kneepads have only made it as far north as Kingussie so far.
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https://youtu.be/COuxNFuAS1Q
Fuck, that was mint!
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Ace little film but i wish the people on the ground would shut the fuck up.
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Citro putting a remarkable shift in there with the fan. Quality stuff
Looks like the chances of success were further improved by the rope coming taught on every swing!
Dave Graham repaying the favour.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CE17rH5AjCe/
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https://youtu.be/COuxNFuAS1Q
That was brilliant. Would have happily watched for an hour. Hopefully Ondra gets stuck into it as well.
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Ace little film but i wish the people on the ground would shut the fuck up.
I dont know how he could keep together with all that noise. I would have come down and punched someone never mind buying them pizza.
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https://youtu.be/COuxNFuAS1Q
That was brilliant. Would have happily watched for an hour. Hopefully Ondra gets stuck into it as well.
In Ondras current series he says he's training pockets. Reckon he's got eyes on this?
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Ondra must be getting paid a big fuckin wedge to have that camera crew follow him everywhere. Couldnt think of anything worse, hes trying one of the hardest routes in the world and theyre releasing vids of him struggling every few days. Surely its hard enough as it is. Every time he wants to try that link from the 5th bolt the cameramans gotta jug up filming every go etc..Seems a bit OTT to me and cant be helping him at all. Makes for good viewing though.
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https://youtu.be/COuxNFuAS1Q
That was brilliant. Would have happily watched for an hour. Hopefully Ondra gets stuck into it as well.
In Ondras current series he says he's training pockets. Reckon he's got eyes on this?
Perfecto Mundo is pockety. Could just be training for that.
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Ondra must be getting paid a big fuckin wedge to have that camera crew follow him everywhere. Couldnt think of anything worse, hes trying one of the hardest routes in the world and theyre releasing vids of him struggling every few days. Surely its hard enough as it is. Every time he wants to try that link from the 5th bolt the cameramans gotta jug up filming every go etc..Seems a bit OTT to me and cant be helping him at all. Makes for good viewing though.
You can make a pretty decent wedge from a youtube channel these days. He's got 250k subscribers so if he's got a decent number of ads running there'll be enough income from the channel to pay for a camera man or 2.
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Ondra must be getting paid a big fuckin wedge to have that camera crew follow him everywhere. Couldnt think of anything worse, hes trying one of the hardest routes in the world and theyre releasing vids of him struggling every few days. Surely its hard enough as it is. Every time he wants to try that link from the 5th bolt the cameramans gotta jug up filming every go etc..Seems a bit OTT to me and cant be helping him at all. Makes for good viewing though.
I think the drone must be the worst. Those things are super noisy and irritating at the best of times. I have no idea how he manages to concentrate. But definitely agree it is good viewing and interesting watching the process he's going through.
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Irritating for everyone else at the crag as well. I look forward to reminding Adam drones aren't allowed at the cove when he come over to try Rainman in a few years :devil-smiley:
I did think it looks like Bibliographie would suit Ondra down to the ground. Fiver says he does it quickly, whenever that is, and downgrades it to 9b+.
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Why did you think Jim? He struggled on Biographie compared to Megos? Only the fact that they are side-by-side makes me think they would have a similar style.
(Purely interested question as I have no idea)
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Why did you think Jim? He struggled on Biographie compared to Megos? Only the fact that they are side-by-side makes me think they would have a similar style.
(Purely interested question as I have no idea)
Fair point about biographie actually. He's a fair bit taller than megos and there looked like a couple of monster locks between pockets on that headwall. But mostly I just think Ondra is so far ahead of everyone else, on every style, that whatever the route its reasonably likely he'll find it easier than anyone else. Megos is also notoriously bad at projecting so it might be that that stopped a swifter tick rather than the route being right at his limit? Subsequent repeaters won't have that mental battle so will have it easier. Interesting to ponder, though I am being facetious about a potential downgrade!
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I think ondra's diversity of skills is second to none. He can climb anything at every level. However, there do not seem to be very many options for kneebars, heel hooks, handjams, etc on Bibliographie to break it down further. It's raw and direct and that seems like it would suit megos. My gut says Ondra can and will climb this, but i doubt he'll downgrade it. I don't think it'll take him 60 days though...
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I don't think Ondra will even try Bibliographie. That is just based on a gut feeling though! TBH I thought he would be getting close to Perfecto Mundo quicker but maybe the conditions have been bad like he says in his videos.
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I don't think Ondra will even try Bibliographie. That is just based on a gut feeling though! TBH I thought he would be getting close to Perfecto Mundo quicker but maybe the conditions have been bad like he says in his videos.
Why? he seems one of the most consistently psyched to try others routes? I guess putting such a huge effort into something not an FA perhaps?
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I really like Ondra and his personality has grown a lot through the course of these videos, they're great and I appreciate the headache it must require to put them together.
One notable thing to me is how much Ondra complains about conditions; either his skin, the humidity, the temperature etc. I'm aware they make a big difference because they can make the difference even to a punter like me but if Ondra isn't the best climber in the world he's tied in the top spot and I feel he doesn't need to make excuses for falling off stuff at his limit. I don't think he's a shyster because he's struggling on 9b+.
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One notable thing to me is how much Ondra all climbers complains about conditions; either his skin, the humidity, the temperature etc.
Just standard climbing protocol isn't it. Got to get a couple excuses in before you pull on.
To be fair to Ondra in the latest Perfecto Mundo video. He is shouting about how can he be so weak and it being embarrassing. So i don't think he is making excuses other than he is finding it hard.
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also conditions matter less when cruising on jugs. The worse the hold, the more you need to rely on friction.
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Id be really surprised if ondra didnt try bibliographie. As said above he is consistently psyched to try his hardest on amazing looking routes that will challenge him, irrespective of grade.
Take his trip to America, he wanted to onsight salathe wall. A righteous goal. He could have easily done it over a few days, been better rested and ready for the headwall to give himself maximum chance. But no, he wants to do it in a day (also very cool) he doesnt manage it but is still psyched.
His American trip had countless examples of him just wanting to experience these things. Regardless of how they might damage the ego.
He also tried to repeat megos fight club in Canada.
Did he also not say he looked forward to trying it when megos did it?
Also agree that he is a cut above the rest (even megos though more due to technical ability and mental game) and so Id be surprised if it took him as long. But it does look devoid of ondra tricks. And he struggled on biographie.
Looking forward to it whenever that day comes. Be interesting to see what he thinks to the grade :popcorn:
Also its ace to see megos applying his potential. Be interesting to see where those two take climbing
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He also tried to repeat megos fight club in Canada.
Well he gave himself a day to do it, which seemed to be a bit of a neg towards Megos at the time.
Has he talked about any timescales with Perfecto Mundo in any of the vids? Seems a bit billy big balls just rolling up with your film crew like youre going to do it in a few days, but I guess he could be planning to be there all winter . Not sure how long his 2 9b+ took him.
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His American trip had countless examples of him just wanting to experience these things. Regardless of how they might damage the ego.
His fight on "Bellyfull..." being a prime example.
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He also tried to repeat megos fight club in Canada.
Well he gave himself a day to do it, which seemed to be a bit of a neg towards Megos at the time.
Has he talked about any timescales with Perfecto Mundo in any of the vids? Seems a bit billy big balls just rolling up with your film crew like youre going to do it in a few days, but I guess he could be planning to be there all winter . Not sure how long his 2 9b+ took him.
He also tried to repeat megos fight club in Canada.
Well he gave himself a day to do it, which seemed to be a bit of a neg towards Megos at the time.
Has he talked about any timescales with Perfecto Mundo in any of the vids? Seems a bit billy big balls just rolling up with your film crew like youre going to do it in a few days, but I guess he could be planning to be there all winter . Not sure how long his 2 9b+ took him.
Yeah true but was also very humble from what I remember when he didnt do it in a day.
No idea on timescales but hes done more than 2 9b+? Change, la dura dura, and has he not done some grotty peak lime style thing In Czech?
It seems like he has some commitment to making content for his YouTube channel more than anything else. Im sure hed rather just go climbing than have some film crew buzzing around him loads.
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One notable thing to me is how much Ondra all climbers complains about conditions; either his skin, the humidity, the temperature etc.
Just standard climbing protocol isn't it. Got to get a couple excuses in before you pull on.
To be fair to Ondra in the latest Perfecto Mundo video. He is shouting about how can he be so weak and it being embarrassing. So i don't think he is making excuses other than he is finding it hard.
I guess it's also the fact we have more access to Ondra than many other climbers so I'm just seeing more of it and a bit of baader meinhof for good measure just rounds it out. Like I say, I'm a big fan of the guy. He comes across as having a lot of fun and being a genuinely good, psyched guy.
Was it Tom Randall or someone saying they sat next to him at a dinner table after a day of climbing and all Ondra talked about was beta about the route all evening. I like that level of passion and obsession.
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Looking forward to it whenever that day comes. Be interesting to see what he thinks to the grade :popcorn:
I seriously doubt he will downgrade it unless it is way out, which I doubt since Megos is clearly no punter especially on pockets. Even if he thinks it is closer to 9b+ I think he won't say anything. The optics would look too bad. Basically would be like him saying only I can establish 9cs.
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I think Ondra has always tried to be more objective/honest than most when it comes to grading and I think he would approach assessing the grade on Bibliographie the same as any other route.
Some climbers have a habit of sandbagging everything, some propose/take big grades to make headlines and keep the sponsors happy, some sit on the fence refusing to risk upsetting anyone.
Ondra has never seemed to shy away from suggesting upgrades or downgrades when he thinks it is appropriate, including when keeping quiet might have suited the sponsors more.
If he tried it, found it easy, and didn't downgrade it, that would just delay the inevitable downgrade. Later on, when someone else repeats it and downgrades it, that would bring the grade of Silence in to question.
I don't expect he'll find it easy though, and don't expect anyone to downgrade it.
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I think he either tries Bibliographie as soon as he's done at Margalef, or he leaves it until after the Olympics.
With what looks like light at the end of the covid tunnel, he's going to have to start ramping up the indoor training and Olympic preparations soon.
I don't think he'll want the distraction of a long term outdoor project getting in the way of that.
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And he'll come out of the Olympic cycle psyched, honed to a point, and flash it. (not)
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I don't think Ondra will even try Bibliographie. That is just based on a gut feeling though! TBH I thought he would be getting close to Perfecto Mundo quicker but maybe the conditions have been bad like he says in his videos.
Why? he seems one of the most consistently psyched to try others routes? I guess putting such a huge effort into something not an FA perhaps?
Like I say, it is just based on a gut feeling and idle speculation! I think he will become more and more of a brand with a heavy emphasis on producing media content. If Perfecto Mundo takes him a long time or he doesn't do it this season then there are just going to be loads of weekly videos about him complaining about conditions and talking about kneebar subtleties and hang durations. This will likely wear thin with a more general audience. I don't think him or his film crew would risk the same thing trudging up to Ceuse for the whole summer. Having said all that, I guess he probably will try it and then make an educated guess about how long it will take him and whether he wants to schedule that in to his long term plans before or after the Olympics. Time will tell!
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To me it feels like Ondra has jumped the shark a bit with this extended entourage. I remeber someone on hear complaining a few years ago when Seigrist hed the temerity to book a caravan at Ceuse, rather than camping like a good honest hard working climber!
I'm hoping Ondra's personal chef turns up next week, followed by his shaman the week after, and his crystal aura consultant the week after that.
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I'd like to see him carried to the crag every day on a sedan chair carried by a team of flunkies wearing Megos masks.
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I've just watched all of the Perfecto Mundo videos and think his trainer is the real star. A captivating screen presence, whether wordlessly watching Adam do press-ups, or when wearing a mournful expression while showing Adam mobile phone footage of him falling off. Such hidden depths portrayed with so few words. He would have been an idol in the silent film era.
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Youve all seen the film where hes writhing around on the ground with his movement coach simulating the holds by pushing him with his hands right?!
(https://www.grapplearts.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/adam-ondra-shadow-climbing.gif)
It must be a right shitshow when Ondras at the crag these days- screaming, entourage, drone buzzing every time he has a burn on his route, that sort of floor warm-up going on. Not sure Id want to stick around if he turned up where I was (admittedly its unlikely hell visit Birchen Edge) I think people just put up with it because hes so goofy and affable.
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Youve all seen the film where hes writhing around on the ground with his movement coach simulating the holds by pushing him with his hands right?!
(https://www.grapplearts.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/adam-ondra-shadow-climbing.gif)
.
WTF is that?? looks like either;
a: Home movie of WWE wrestling
b: some cruel scene from a panorama care home infiltration documentary.
:lol: :lol:
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The films called Age of Ondra. Its currently free online but impossible to link directly to because UKB autocorrects the name of the soft drink company that hosts it so youll have to Google it.
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Youve all seen the film where hes writhing around on the ground with his movement coach simulating the holds by pushing him with his hands right?!
(https://www.grapplearts.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/adam-ondra-shadow-climbing.gif)
It must be a right shitshow when Ondras at the crag these days- screaming, entourage, drone buzzing every time he has a burn on his route, that sort of floor warm-up going on. Not sure Id want to stick around if he turned up where I was (admittedly its unlikely hell visit Birchen Edge) I think people just put up with it because hes so goofy and affable.
Also, it often seems when these sorts of things are being filmed at least one of the neighbouring routes becomes off limit. I wonder what the etiquette is if one of those routes happens to be your project. Do you just have to accept that you won't be getting on it as you'd wish that session? This happened to me once at LPT and I remember feeling a bit miffed at the time.
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Also, it often seems when these sorts of things are being filmed at least one of the neighbouring routes becomes off limit. I wonder what the etiquette is if one of those routes happens to be your project. Do you just have to accept that you won't be getting on it as you'd wish that session? This happened to me once at LPT and I remember feeling a bit miffed at the time.
Who was the offending party John? :lol: Depends on the setup I'd have thought as often the rock is so steep the photographer is way off the rock and only the belay is in use.
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Youve all seen the film where hes writhing around on the ground with his movement coach simulating the holds by pushing him with his hands right?!
(https://www.grapplearts.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/adam-ondra-shadow-climbing.gif)
I really hope we find out later that the real "movement coach's" car broke down on his first day at the crag with Ondra and, in a case of mistaken identity, this is just a random guy who is now determined to ride the gravy train for as long as he can.
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Also, it often seems when these sorts of things are being filmed at least one of the neighbouring routes becomes off limit. I wonder what the etiquette is if one of those routes happens to be your project. Do you just have to accept that you won't be getting on it as you'd wish that session? This happened to me once at LPT and I remember feeling a bit miffed at the time.
Surely no different to what happens if you're on a project that has a shared start with a route someone else is on? You have a chat about it at the start of the day and work out a compromise.
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Youve all seen the film where hes writhing around on the ground with his movement coach simulating the holds by pushing him with his hands right?!
(https://www.grapplearts.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/adam-ondra-shadow-climbing.gif)
It must be a right shitshow when Ondras at the crag these days- screaming, entourage, drone buzzing every time he has a burn on his route, that sort of floor warm-up going on. Not sure Id want to stick around if he turned up where I was (admittedly its unlikely hell visit Birchen Edge) I think people just put up with it because hes so goofy and affable.
Also, it often seems when these sorts of things are being filmed at least one of the neighbouring routes becomes off limit. I wonder what the etiquette is if one of those routes happens to be your project. Do you just have to accept that you won't be getting on it as you'd wish that session? This happened to me once at LPT and I remember feeling a bit miffed at the time.
Come on though, if Adam Ondra rocks up at the crag to try and flash a 9a+ or work something harder you're gonna be watching that not climbing!
The films called Age of Ondra. Its currently free online but impossible to link directly to because UKB autocorrects the name of the soft drink company that hosts it so youll have to Google it.
Thanks for mentioning this, hadn't seen it before. Cool little series. I hadn't realised he actually did that last vert 9b in Canada, I'd just seen the pics and fail videos, looks absolutely heinous.
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Guess this is all pretty standard in top level sport its just not carried out in such a public space.
Other than ride their bikes i dont think any of the tour boys lift a finger and i suspect Ronaldo doesn't wash his boots after the match, or potentially even tie them himself before hand.
I am really enjoying the Ondra vids, despite what you see online i dont think hes struggling with it and suspect a few days of better conditions will see it ticked. It is 9b+ remember, still pretty hard.
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Other than ride their bikes i dont think any of the tour boys lift a finger
Its quite interesting that you mention the Tour, as the way Ondra is going reminded me of an incident a few years ago. Sky rocked up with an RV for their lead rider to sleep in so theyd have the same bed/ sleep better/ have somewhere nice and private to take some asthma medication/ etc. They were widely derided for the decision as it being a step too far, and they actually rolled back on it and sent the RV home.
I feel that the situation with Ondra is now not dissimilar, where hes pushing the edge of professionalism in climbing, where as previously the people projecting 7a or 9c were essentially doing that same things day to day and only the number was different.
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As YouTube seems to be the advertising equivalent of being a landlord, its going to be massive for climbing pros. 100k subscribers and the option to have memberships etc can earn you a serious living if youre putting out content frequently enough. Better to siege a project over a month with daily updates than send it in a few tries. Im not suggesting thats what hes doing of course, but I think his channel is a smart move. Hes a likeable and engaging character, thats for sure.
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Are you suggesting he should reign it in as its a step to far?
Most of the top climbers do it i think hes just very open about what goes on behind the scenes. The mellow mob seem to move around in a permanent entourage and Megos often has his coach with him.
Re Toms comment i think the youtube route really puts the climber in control rather than being dictated to by your sponsors. Get your self enough followers and provide good content and they will be begging to pay you.
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Didn't Ondra study economics? It shows.
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100k subscribers and the option to have memberships etc can earn you a serious living if youre putting out content frequently enough.
I'm not sure about that, (although your 'landlord' comment needs expanding on).
I've looked at this a few times as our business channel has 28k subscribers and folk are surprised we don't bother monetizing it. Most estimates suggest you can expect to earn about 1.10 / 1k views. Ondra's videos look to average about 140k views with only 8 passing 500k and Silence having racked up 4 million. So he might be pulling in 150-200 a video, twice a week, even for Silence its only 4500 over 2 years (I imagine Stick It did a lot better, let alone Hard Grit). Adding together the views for his top 20 videos suggests maybe 15 grand tops a year which is a paltry sum for the number involved in the production and realistically is barely even covering his shaman costs.
If there is 'serious' money involved it is entirely from direct sponsorship to the individual not paid ads on the channel. I'm sure the follower figures you can show your sponsors now are much more powerful than the odd mag cover ever was, but the idea that you are freed from relying on them with your independent youtuber income seems a fantasy, at least for the viewer numbers in climbing.
Presuming by landlord you mean having the biggest channel means the sponsors are fighting to be on it?
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He has a fair few videos that are now getting 500k views and hes only just started really.
Also it works a bit like loyalties so each clip is in constant rotation so all of them still give you income after the initial rush of the first few weeks.
To really make money you need to have masses of content. The big you tubers are putting things out daily. Car you tubers like Shmee 150 have new stuff daily and getting 250 k hits daily. Making content is so much easier for him though than ondra, seems to be all done by him and his girlfriend with a couple of cameras.
I find it all fascinating
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Guess its a bit like having 100 jobs at once all paying you a little bit. Soon adds up to a lot.
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Most estimates suggest you can expect to earn about 1.10 / 1k views.
I think Ondra might be able to get more than double this CPM as his audience is going to be young and wealthy and hence appealing to advertisers. It still wouldn't cover the whole cost of production though. I suppose the standard model has to be that many of your videos tick over and every now and then you make your money from a big hitter. It's all going to make him more valuable to his sponsors, so I guess he's making money from both sides.
It would be interesting to see the cigarette packet calculation for something like this. What are the numbers you're expecting to hit and the money that's coming in? How much extra do you hope to squeexze from sponsors as a result? How much is just that you make enough money to cover the shortfalls and you want to secure your legacy?
Magnus Mitb get 3 times the traffic that Ondra does and follows a more "traditional" YouTuber style with his videos. I find this sort of thing interesting mainly for who controls the narrative these days. The idea of there being a central place where you get your climbing news is dead, and the judgment on what is newsworthy changes with it. What's "shareworthy" is more important.
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Are you suggesting he should reign it in as its a step to far?
Most of the top climbers do it i think hes just very open about what goes on behind the scenes. The mellow mob seem to move around in a permanent entourage and Megos often has his coach with him.
I don’t think any other pro’s are on the same level as Ondra with any of this extra stuff. Sure the Kraft dudes come out and hang around with Megos but I think this is because they are mates as much as anything. This is different to having your full time coach/belayer/interpretive dance partner on hand 24/7 as well as a masseuse.
Likewise with the filming, assume Patagucci stumped you some cash for the Rotpukt and Bibliographie filming, Ondra seems to be doing this off his own back.
In terms of the Mellow stuff, the vast majority of their output is filmed by other climbers, it’s only the top quality stuff that isn’t, and most of that is filmed and edited by Kevin Takashi Smith, who seems to be friends with those guys and is also produced other (directly paid I assume) content for their sponsors, like that Possessed Jimmy Webb film.
The question of whether he should rein it in is moot, it all seems a bit OTT to me compared to what his closest completion (Ghifolsi and Megos I guess) are up to, but if all this additional stuff is giving him an edge and making him more saleable, then I guess it’s worth it.
I see that his vids now also contain in video product placement for an energy drink or something that they have to mention at the start, I’ve only seen this on CrossFit vids previously, but I don’t want any ‘influencer’ stuff where I assume it’s commonplace.
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Most estimates suggest you can expect to earn about 1.10 / 1k views. Ondra's videos look to average about 140k views with only 8 passing 500k and Silence having racked up 4 million. So he might be pulling in 150-200 a video, twice a week, even for Silence its only 4500 over 2 years (I imagine Stick It did a lot better, let alone Hard Grit). Adding together the views for his top 20 videos suggests maybe 15 grand tops a year which is a paltry sum for the number involved in the production and realistically is barely even covering his shaman costs.
Just questioning your maths there. 200 per video twice a week is 20,800 per year. Still not exactly mega bucks, but when you factor in the bigger vids like Silence (remember that won't just have been monetised via YouTube alone), and the fact that loads of that footage will also be sellable to the likes of Reel Rock, plus the fact that I bet plenty of the people involved have other employment (I.e. he's not having to pay full wages for them all), plus all his direct sponsorship deals, and he's probably doing rather well.
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The amount earned is driven by audience, I know a lot of the big personal finance and investing youtubers can get up to $20 or $30 per 1k views whereas a climber audience is not the same... This may change as we head towards the Olympics and climbing becomes more "mainstream"
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I dont think theres anything wrong with anything Ondra does, either to climb harder and harder or to promote himself or his sponsors. I just think some of its funny and would probably find it annoying quite if I was climbing in the same place his whole scene was going on.
I feel the same about Ronaldo or Tadej Pogečar but if I tried to have a kick around during a Juventus match or ride a bike on a street closed for a TdF stage Id rightly be escorted off by security and booed by the spectators. The top climbers are just the same as any other pro athletes analogy works as far as climbing in comps but not for normal rock climbing which is part of the reason why rock climbings so great.
I think Ondras YouTube channels really high quality and I subscribe to it and watch the episodes fairly often. The methods to get successful from YouTube while creating content thats absolute catshit (post videos that are as long as you can manage as often as possible, appeal to kids, be controversial, have catchphrases, constantly nag you audience to ring imaginary bells, have terrible clickbait slides as the thumbnail, collaborate with other successful but not-necessarily-connected-to-your-content YouTubers etc. etc.) are well established and in use by other climbers already and although Ondras obviously running his channel with the aim of making money off it, hes a long way from that.
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It seems unfair to be positing that his entourage would be getting in the way of normal climbers at the crag when, as far as we know, the incidents of camera operators hogging the neighbouring routes are purely hypothetical. All the other stuff: getting physio, loud encouragement during promising redpoint attempts, etc doesn't actually seem like a big cross to bear.
I've asked people to move around or move their stuff at crags when taking pictures for a guide and people have been happy to do it; if I had to make some small adjustment to my day to accommodate the Ondrabus then I'd do it; if I asked them to film from a different line or if there was any way we could happily share the line then I'm sure they'd help out (for the cynics, it could be as much for the reason of not wanting bad "Ondra fucked my redpoint" PR as just common courtesy).
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We obviously look at climbing differently as i see it very much the same as other sports. The top end pushing boundaries are approaching it in a very professional manner and the rest of us lie somewhere between them and a total punter.
This is the same with cycling, where the average person riding a bike at the weekend is almost doing a different sport to the tour lads, just as the fat lad playing 5 a side on a friday, as an excuse to get away from his wife and kids and have a few pints, is to Ronaldo. All are doing the same sports though, just differently.
I therefore dont see why the likes of Ondra megos etc shouldnt approach it as other top athletes, indoors or out.
I like Ondras youtube stuff but cant stand Mitbos and amazed he gets more views. However i am a 52 year old man so i guess not really there chosen market.
My kids watch everything on youtube, its there go to source for everything and the idea of watching TV or searching for something on google would not even register.
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I feel the same about Ronaldo or Tadej Pogečar but if I tried to have a kick around during a Juventus match or ride a bike on a street closed for a TdF stage I’d rightly be escorted off by security and booed by the spectators. The “top climbers are just the same as any other pro athletes” analogy works as far as climbing in comps but not for normal rock climbing which is part of the reason why rock climbing’s so great.
Or to flip it around if you were having a kickabout on the local power league 5 aside pitch and the local premier League team was having a match next door, with the attendant hullabaloo, would you be pissed off or excited?
Regarding hogging the route next door, it's not as if it is the crag warm up (although that is surprisingly close) so anyone wanting to do the route the cameraman is on would probably be known to one of Ondra's entourage. Busy Spanish crags can be pretty noisy so the sound of a drone and and a screaming Czech could easily be drowned out!
I am interested in the economics of it all though. Someone on the other channel was saying he made an income from his van conversion YouTubes with far fewer views than Ondra's. On the other hand Ondra's retinue was already pretty large before his YouTube channel and I don't see him advertising anything outside of climbing.
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The amount earned is driven by audience, I know a lot of the big personal finance and investing youtubers can get up to $20 or $30 per 1k views whereas a climber audience is not the same... This may change as we head towards the Olympics and climbing becomes more "mainstream"
An interview with Ondra followed by a roundup of his top ethical investment funds could be a great new feature for London Climber.
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The amount earned is driven by audience, I know a lot of the big personal finance and investing youtubers can get up to $20 or $30 per 1k views whereas a climber audience is not the same... This may change as we head towards the Olympics and climbing becomes more "mainstream"
An interview with Ondra followed by a roundup of his top ethical investment funds could be a great new feature for London Climber.
Were actually planning to launch our own YouTube channel imminently, starting with a board-based dating show provisionally titled COME DYNO WITH ME...
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I would watch this. Imagine the will-they-won't-they-give-each-other-a-close-spot suspense. Forget core tension, the viewers are psyched for sexual tension.
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Most estimates suggest you can expect to earn about 1.10 / 1k views.
I guess it depends a lot on your content (who's watching and for how long) but that seems quite conservative. The lattice channel makes significantly more than this.
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I thought this seemed low as well but have no direct knowledge. Most websites about it suggest $5-6 per 1000.
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Presuming by landlord you mean having the biggest channel means the sponsors are fighting to be on it?
Probably not a great analogy but what I meant is he has the income stream from the channel itself, as well as the ability to leverage greater sponsorship payments from brands that he places in the videos.
Some YouTubers have memberships where you pay eg $5pm for additional content, special live chats etc. If you convert 2% of your 100k subscribers thats $120k pa. So its not just about advertising revenue generated by the frequency/duration/views of the videos. Ondra merch etc.
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Its quite a while since YouTibe worked solely on views- how long people watch for is more important nowadays, (hence the vast amount of filler on the more unscrupulous channels) so /view will be very different for a channel that has short or turnoffable clips to one that has long engaging ones.
Or to flip it around if you were having a kickabout on the local power league 5 aside pitch and the local premier League team was having a match next door, with the attendant hullabaloo, would you be pissed off or excited?
Id draw the curtains. ;)
The fact that this can only be a hypothetical situation illustrates the point I was trying to make- the business end of top-level rock climbing really does happen unannounced, without officiation, in public places. In fact it never happens in any other circumstances. Even as punters we play at Wembley (or Bramhall Lane at least) whenever we like and the most important match of the season might kick off a few metres away while were doing it.
We obviously look at climbing differently
I dont think we do as I agree with your entire post. I was just making the distinction between the private/ official nature of most sporting events and the public/ unofficial business of rock climbing, just not very well. ;)
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Just in case Mattel are reading this, if someone produces some Adam Ondra and Margo Hayes dolls then my children will be the first to own them. I'll even buy the genuine VW Camper Van and branded Beastmaker accessories.
Imagine being the kid in the class who's parents got them the Niall Grimes doll :boohoo:
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Imagine being the kid in the class who's parents got them the Niall Grimes doll :boohoo:
Pull the cord..."Use code bb2020 to get free postage!"
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The amount earned is driven by audience, I know a lot of the big personal finance and investing youtubers can get up to $20 or $30 per 1k views whereas a climber audience is not the same... This may change as we head towards the Olympics and climbing becomes more "mainstream"
An interview with Ondra followed by a roundup of his top ethical investment funds could be a great new feature for London Climber.
Were actually planning to launch our own YouTube channel imminently, starting with a board-based dating show provisionally titled COME DYNO WITH ME...
What about the Great British Belay Off?
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Imagine being the kid in the class who's parents got them the Niall Grimes doll :boohoo:
If it had a pull-string which made it say "but it heeeld, that shipwreck of a flake actually heeeeld" ; "... and this, the rurly flashed - strapadictomy" ; and "the year... was 1915", then it would be the best doll.
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Were actually planning to launch our own YouTube channel imminently, starting with a board-based dating show provisionally titled COME DYNO WITH ME...
I can't see it catching on...
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Were actually planning to launch our own YouTube channel imminently, starting with a board-based dating show provisionally titled COME DYNO WITH ME...
I can't see it catching on...
It might do if they serve a slap up meal
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Despite this being an advert (and an epic TV one at that....), Johnny Dawes is just so impressive to watch in this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j57Bxc4aQIs
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Id avoided this due to the Epic link but Im glad youve recommended it - really enjoyed that. He is such a smooth mover on that Lawrencefield slab. The very fanciest of footwork.
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George Best said in an interview that he was lucky because he was blessed with really good balance. You can see it when he just waltzes through tackles. Its Johnnys great good fortune too.
I can barely take one foot off the floor without falling over.
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As I understand it, he's devoted a lot of time to thinking about movement and balance. I think its one of the things that he really likes about climbing. Not just talent, but a lot of time, effort and practice.
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Was a bit disappointing The Salmon wasnt no handed 😂
Its interesting on The Salmon that his movement is quite normal looking, I always thought maybe that on Stone Monkey etc. there was a lot of overegging the flamboyant dynamic stuff for the camera.
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Was a bit disappointing The Salmon wasnt no handed 😂
Its interesting on The Salmon that his movement is quite normal looking, I always thought maybe that on Stone Monkey etc. there was a lot of overegging the flamboyant dynamic stuff for the camera.
Not such a springy chicken anymore
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I thought it was pretty impressive how he still rinsed his way up the salmon. Yes its a slab and yes its johnny, but didnt look like he pre-practiced it and grit E7s dont get done like that very often do they? Certainly not by people in their 50s! (Is Johnny in his 50s?)
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I don't know but those cams looked like they were in their 50s
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I thought it was pretty impressive how he still rinsed his way up the salmon.
Im sure hes more than capable, but theres a tonne of cuts in the video, so not evidence of an ascent as such.
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Its interesting on The Salmon that his movement is quite normal looking,
The top moves on The Salmon are slabby but quite steep and have handholds, of sorts, but not really footholds. I remember it being a bit of a frantic sprint. It's not something for walking up.
I don't know about edits, but for final moves there does appear to be a high side runner off to the Johnny's left.
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:chair: good beady eyes!
I thought teestub was just being cynical!
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Also at 6:07 as he looks up you can see a karabiner hanging over top of the crag.
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www.youtube.com/watch?v=GV_HpU5L8H8
I loved the no music and you actually get to see large chunks of climbing from really great angles on and amazing looking climb in and incredible position! If this doesn't get you psyched I don't know what will!
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I thought it was pretty impressive how he still rinsed his way up the salmon.
How did he get the side runner in after he had committed to the slab?
Edit- just seen Andys post
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www.youtube.com/watch?v=GV_HpU5L8H8
I loved the no music and you actually get to see large chunks of climbing from really great angles on and amazing looking climb in and incredible position! If this doesn't get you psyched I don't know what will!
Agreed, I liked that. Would love to see footage of a redpoint on it.
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Some interesting differences between them. For example, Steve climbs with his laces undone, whereas Buster leaves the velcro strap free.
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If this doesn't get you psyched I don't know what will!
Some more luck-based scrittle??
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Think my old man was belaying at 4.12...
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Think my old man was belaying at 4.12...
Ha!
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Apparently Les Eaux Claires is the place to be....
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsXpLnIssVY
The only natural hard route there is 8m tall and looks like it has some fairly small holds. Great little vid.
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If you don't love monos and duos you"d be a bit fucked. Cool looking little route, it even tops out! Some of the editing / strobe-speed cutting in the middle of the video did my fucking tits in tho.
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At 1.25 he says the grades are stiff, not that he struggles with quotations. (Although don't we all..) and at 2.44 the cut takes = chipped holds.
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At 1.25 he says the grades are stiff, not that he struggles with quotations. (Although don't we all..) and at 2.44 the cut takes = chipped holds.
I didn't see that it had subs. That's great! (And yeah, the subs are clearly done by someone French =)
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Very cool.
I watched it last night, not realising there were subtitles and really hoped that in the short interview at the end Seb was saying "There's no way I'm trying that, it looks hideous."
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https://vimeo.com/449058597
Follows a very well-worn Yosemite film groove (seems mad to release a film in 2020 and describe the distinction between the Boulder Problem and Teflon Corner pitches on Freerider without even mentioning Free Solo) but I really enjoyed it.
For those who missed the 'Free As Can Be' video the last time around, it is now released on Arcteryx youtube channel:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aJ2Np9wqTAc
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Its gone again already. Looks like ArcTeryx are doing a virtual film festival where they put films up for one day at a time. Second time Ive sent my mate a link to that film and its been gone by the time hes tried to watch it! :lol:
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Mark is jealously guarding his dark horse status. :)
There was an article (in Mountain I think) about 30 years ago, about him and Max Jones doing really hard roofs and stuff, entitled 'A different sport' - posing the question. Pretty much the precursor to mainstream now. Would be interesting to read it again.
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Its gone again already. Looks like ArcTeryx are doing a virtual film festival where they put films up for one day at a time. Second time Ive sent my mate a link to that film and its been gone by the time hes tried to watch it! :lol:
Still there today?
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So it is. It definitely wasnt last night. Who knows what theyre playing at? :lol:
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https://youtu.be/8G0fNkk4g0A
I know I've probably linked it wrong, sorry.
I know it's everest, sorry
But the filming and images are outstanding.
The storm is mind blowing. I'm sure you can see people out of the tents roped to the ground.
Another big mountain video I saw which had me captivated this week was an old one of simone moro on gasherbrum 2 in the winter. It was called cold, I think the title is a slight understatement.
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https://youtu.be/-OBX25ix4eU
The link to cold seeing the first one worked. Worth a watch.
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A bit of a tangent to the mountaineering stuff, but as well as all the usual relentless Americanisms, this has a pretty damn cool line and unusual climbing for a 9a+ (including tickmarked handjams and all)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jIWv6SXmrTc
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Thought that was a great video but I really don't get the need to tick every single hold. I've found quite a few boulders recently with big donkeys on literally every hand and foot hold. Crazy...
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For some reason, no one has posted this yet
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=muDT1CW6PEc
St Lger is beautiful in the autumn.
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A bit of a tangent to the mountaineering stuff, but as well as all the usual relentless Americanisms, this has a pretty damn cool line and unusual climbing for a 9a+ (including tickmarked handjams and all)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jIWv6SXmrTc
I'm guessing it must be pretty steep as it looks about 6b. Very unique line for something that hard.
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I'm guessing it must be pretty steep as it looks about 6b. Very unique line for something that hard.
I was thinking something similar: the rock must be slick as snot or something.
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For some reason, no one has posted this yet
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=muDT1CW6PEc
St Lger is beautiful in the autumn.
Beautifully shot - but the film kind of sells this as the send, and it's not, is it?
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Beautifully shot - but the film kind of sells this as the send, and it's not, is it?
agreed
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The send footage is the mobile phone footage thats cut in a bit, there was an epictv vid that featured that too. Never sure why film makers feel the need to have the fake celebration bits, the quality footage of long sequences of the climbing is great though.
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Indeed. My "it's not, is it?" was rhetorical.
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https://youtu.be/l8AETvINyAk
Thought this was great - chilled vibe, excellent climbing and commentary.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=muDT1CW6PEc
Beautifully shot - but the film kind of sells this as the send, and it's not, is it?
Just got round to watching this, its proper Hollywood eh? Each camera angle is clearly from a different burn on the route. The filmmaker gives himself a writers credit! :wank: :lol:
St.Leger looks like a cool place to climb though.
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https://youtu.be/l8AETvINyAk
Thought this was great - chilled vibe, excellent climbing and commentary.
Yeah really nice film with good commentary. Fuck me that climb goes on a long way, was getting proper tired just watching it!!
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Ye really enjoyed the change video as well. He is on the climb for ages and it shouldnt really be a good watch but his low key humorous commentary and the amount of variety in the climb make it a great watch.
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He got me with the bit at the end, good and proper
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Latest edition of Seb Bouin's Vintage Rock Tour trying Fred Rouhling's routes at Les Eaux Claires. Really enjoyed this. Crazy moves on some of the routes. Would have been nice to see some uncut footage but still cool.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DuMxIC6qdp8
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enjoyed that a lot
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Me too, aside from some slightly grim looking pockets they all so fun to climb. No judgement on the chipping either.
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Well good. Looks a lovely area as well. Some of those pockets made me wince.
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Very nice. I never get bored of seeing the Autre Ciel roof section. And the rock is very shapely there, unlike that god awful UK style chossheap that Akira's in.
I would have liked a bit more "modern" disparaging of the chipping, at least to say "well it happened but we don't do that these days", which could have been balanced out by briefly disparaging Fred's doubters and haters in the context of broad grade / quality confirmations....
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Yes but they could have got Rouhling to speak perhaps?
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The rock looks just like Guignoterie where I climbed a few summers ago. Just realised its 2 hours further south. That type of super fingery polished pocketed limestone is pretty nails to climb on, especially on sight. Lovely climbing in those shady river valleys though.
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Yes but they could have got Rouhling to speak perhaps?
Good point, having him in the film watching Seb do these historic routes would have been real nice.
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Yes but they could have got Rouhling to speak perhaps?
Good point, having him in the film watching Seb do these historic routes would have been real nice.
I got the impression that it was not for lack of trying
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Very nice. I never get bored of seeing the Autre Ciel roof section. And the rock is very shapely there, unlike that god awful UK style chossheap that Akira's in.
I would have liked a bit more "modern" disparaging of the chipping, at least to say "well it happened but we don't do that these days", which could have been balanced out by briefly disparaging Fred's doubters and haters in the context of broad grade / quality confirmations....
FWIW I agree, but the rock architecture is stunning and begging for the wild and crazy routes he created. Could easily have been brought down to punter level by chipping massive buckets.
I realise there is the "something for the future generation" argument, but blank means blank surely?
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https://youtu.be/EebZCBAMgjk
These videos have been really good.
I thought the last one was superb
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mAJbCPUIShc
Gunslingers at Bomb Bleu. Anatole Bosio, Lucien Martinez and Charles Albert tries the legendary project under the watchful eye of Marc Le Menestrel
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https://youtu.be/EebZCBAMgjk
These videos have been really good.
I thought the last one was superb
Really enjoyed that. He comes across as a really nice guy. Such a shame to hear about his illness. Really debilitating condition ME/CFS.
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Re the Bombe Bleu video, does the French use of "mythical" have a different sense to the English? The term is used to describe Bombe Bleu and it was repeatedly used in the recent Seb Bouin video to describe Fred Rouhling's routes.
In English, mythical has implications of the fictitious, "fairy stories" etc. So I thought Seb's video was perhaps suggesting that Rouhling's routes were somehow invalid (either had not been climbed or because of chipping). Now I suspect that in French, mythical is more equivalent to "renowned" (thinking about it, the words "fabled" and "legendary" are similarly ambiguous - can mean "of a fairy story" and / or "dead famous").
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<< Cest plus fin quil ne parat>> Effectivement, Charles cest le hritier natural de cet esprit mythique du vallon.
Aleatory = low percentage move. Jib at 12.57 I think?
Edit - seen your post Moose. Yes, mythique = legendary in this context, but it can also reference myths and legends.
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Re the Bombe Bleu video, does the French use of "mythical" have a different sense to the English?
yup, as mrj says, mythique is legendary in this context. It's a common usage. You can even say that a party was "mythique" etc
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Cheers Fellas, I suspected as much - implied cheating / invention did seem a bit incongruous for a feel-good corporate puff-piece.
I am now disappearing into a mental worm-hole on the gradations between legendary, fabled, mythical, renowned, storied etc. and their variations. Matters such as why is Jerry Moffat a "climbing legend" but not "legendary climber", whereas Jack and the Beanstalk is about a "legendary climber" but not a "climbing legend"!
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I am now disappearing into a mental worm-hole on the gradations between legendary, fabled, mythical, renowned, storied etc. and their variations. Matters such as why is Jerry Moffat a "climbing legend" but not "legendary climber", whereas Jack and the Beanstalk is about a "legendary climber" but not a "climbing legend"!
Its like the debates between football pundits over who is or was a world class or top top player. Battles rage long and hard without any of them stopping to come up with a definition of either category.
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To muddy the waters further, what I was referring to in French was the mystical element to Buoux, its history of settlement over 5000 years with the underground necropolis, Roman fort, carvings in the rock, Huguenot refuges and so on.
Fabrics Guillot ( iirc ) spent some time fasting and meditating under the crag with Antoine once upon a time. Stood up, fell off the ledge and left citing mauvaises ondes or something similar. Or thats how the story went, details a little hazy now.
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These videos have been really good.
I thought the last one was superb
I like their stuff, the one about The New Deal is one of my favourite recent chuffing films.
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Loving the buoux vid! Moose, that strikes me as a surprising question, mythical is used in exactly the same way in English regularly?
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Loving the buoux vid! Moose, that strikes me as a surprising question, mythical is used in exactly the same way in English regularly?
Really? I nearly always encounter mythical with apocryphal / fabled stuff - Robin Hood, King Arthur, the Iliad / Odyssey etc. Legendary is the more ambiguous term - used for both the historically dodgy and genuine, truthful matters of historic significance (bear in mind though that I am one of those arseholes who gets upset by the erosion of the delineation between disinterested and uninterested, and the use of decimation when destruction / annihilation would be more apt).
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French use Legend(e) too - "Je suis un Legende (7a+) - Verdon. :)
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and the use of decimation when destruction / annihilation would be more apt).
I think its been a while since its common usage swung from 1/10 to being synonymous with the other two but would be interesting to know when that was.
Loved the Buoux vid, they get some great stuff on Relais Vertical
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and the use of decimation when destruction / annihilation would be more apt).
I think its been a while since its common usage swung from 1/10 to being synonymous with the other two but would be interesting to know when that was.
That "when" is forever a dark time in my heart! I admit I'm resigned and in the minority on that front but I'm adamant the disinterest / uninterested difference is worth keeping.
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Decimate may have a technical meaning but I would guess most people have used it more loosely for a long time. Here's a Google Ngram:
https://books.google.com/ngrams/graph?content=decimate&year_start=1700&year_end=2019&corpus=26&smoothing=3&direct_url=t1%3B%2Cdecimate%3B%2Cc0#t1%3B%2Cdecimate%3B%2Cc0
I wonder if the steady climb in usage from the first half of the C20th indicates increasing misuse? However, following some of the sources I immediately found someone complaining about widespread misuse in 1885. So, it's been going on for a while.
Meanwhile, uninterested and disinterested have completely different meanings and can't substitute for each other.
ps. Buoux film was great, fascinating to see this legendary route up close.
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Bombe Bleu.... it's halfway up the crag with an long access scramble to get there, looks as if it bakes in the sun, rambling to start to a rest ledge, disproportionately hard bloc crux, a possible entirely morpho way to bypass that, moves that are easier with one bare foot, and endless painful pockets that limit the amount of tries you can have. What's not to love! Nice film and commentary though, and of course Charles being Charles.
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Speaking of decimate.
Words like this drives me crazy. I suspect it is partly because I am a ESL speaker, and my method to acquire vocabulary is by memorising etymology.
(Decimate has nothing on the name of the ninth to twelfth months in most European languages. That the 9th month is called the seventh (sept) month, the 10th month is called the eight (octo) month ... argh....)
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Decimate may have a technical meaning but I would guess most people have used it more loosely for a long time. Here's a Google Ngram:
https://books.google.com/ngrams/graph?content=decimate&year_start=1700&year_end=2019&corpus=26&smoothing=3&direct_url=t1%3B%2Cdecimate%3B%2Cc0#t1%3B%2Cdecimate%3B%2Cc0
I wonder if the steady climb in usage from the first half of the C20th indicates increasing misuse? However, following some of the sources I immediately found someone complaining about widespread misuse in 1885. So, it's been going on for a while.
Meanwhile, uninterested and disinterested have completely different meanings and can't substitute for each other.
Interesting. I was completely oblivious of anything other than the use in the modern venacular. Likewise flammable and inflammable are not the same thing. (apologies for the OT, but I find this stuff fascinating.
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https://youtu.be/Q8mD2hsxrhQ
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Hi Everybody!
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I'm finding this conversation about semantic change egregious! ;D
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Decimate may have a technical meaning but I would guess most people have used it more loosely for a long time. Here's a Google Ngram:
https://books.google.com/ngrams/graph?content=decimate&year_start=1700&year_end=2019&corpus=26&smoothing=3&direct_url=t1%3B%2Cdecimate%3B%2Cc0#t1%3B%2Cdecimate%3B%2Cc0
I wonder if the steady climb in usage from the first half of the C20th indicates increasing misuse? However, following some of the sources I immediately found someone complaining about widespread misuse in 1885. So, it's been going on for a while.
Meanwhile, uninterested and disinterested have completely different meanings and can't substitute for each other.
Interesting. I was completely oblivious of anything other than the use in the modern venacular. Likewise flammable and inflammable are not the same thing. (apologies for the OT, but I find this stuff fascinating.
Flammable and inflammable are usually both used interchangably for "readily ignitable". I've come across inflammable being used for igniting spontaneously in air but that's not a widely accepted meaning and it's not described by its etymology (the "in" just means "to do", like "indoctrinate"); and that behaviour is normally termed pyrophoric.
Now back to the report I am writing where I am having to explain the differences between smoke-, flash-, fire-, and auto-ignition points to a solicitor.....
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Nomenclature of months comes from the Roman system of ten.
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That inflammable means burnable should be clear to everyone that has had a burning sensation from an inflammation.
This message is possibly off topic.
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should probably all go here https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10721.150.html
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Not sure if chuffing includes mixed ice climbing, but stumbled on this and found it really watchable https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vMIAQbxonj4&t=12525s
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www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Hol4h2XiYM
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Maybe I've spent too much time in grotty limestone caves but that looks like amazing climbing. WOuld be interesting to see how hard it is when you're fully rubbered up.
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Quality clarity of footage - and looks hard enough for 95 - with epic non-quality of rock, aesthetics, location. Right to the very sub-Peak finish.
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Is that what Akira is?! :lol:
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:yes:
It makes Realisation look like a Tom's Cave link-up.
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Maybe I've spent too much time in grotty limestone caves but that looks like amazing climbing. WOuld be interesting to see how hard it is when you're fully rubbered up.
You can't be serious with that last sentence... :lol:
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Maybe I've spent too much time in grotty limestone caves but that looks like amazing climbing. WOuld be interesting to see how hard it is when you're fully rubbered up.
My mind jumped to the same question - maybe even an injured Barros could trick his way up it?
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My mind jumped to the same question - maybe even an injured Barros could trick his way up it?
I have a long, long list of places I want to go and routes I want to do... I don't think Akira will make it onto the list unless my mum decides to retire to the house nextdoor! Though obvs if it were in the peak I'd be psyched off my tits.
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Maybe I've spent too much time in grotty limestone caves but that looks like amazing climbing. WOuld be interesting to see how hard it is when you're fully rubbered up.
My mind jumped to the same question - maybe even an injured Barros could trick his way up it?
You've got plenty of skills with the rubber Ally, get on it!
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TJMcR4R-nu0
F8b trad on crisp sandstone, in light snow, with a cool drop down traverse :yes:
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Maybe I've spent too much time in grotty limestone caves but that looks like amazing climbing. WOuld be interesting to see how hard it is when you're fully rubbered up.
Quite a lot easier than 9a, I'd guess?
Here is a video of a local climber doing it without using any knee bars at all:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4_1B11jQOiA
(Clearly not quality, I know, but it adds context to the previous video)
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Its great this thing is getting done now so it can be crossed off the historic list. Bet it wont stay at 9a either.
It obviously wasn't 9b when it was done, despite Fred claiming its changed since he did it making it impossible to prove. I would have thought that things get harder when they break in a majority of cases although not all.
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And i bet it would have queues under it in the peak.
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It is the QAnon of climbing. (Regarding holds: There are of course counter-rumours as well, I have heard people claiming that holds have vanished since the FA).
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And i bet it would have queues a car parked under it in the peak.
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I liked this, despite it being just projects. Nice scenery, nice footage, and nice down-to-earth commentary too. And a heinously slopey 9b project with a back-and-foot rest in it?!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6j5RLXKkroU
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that was great.
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A story about an epic on a Hard Severe becomes the basis for just about the best thing I've ever seen/read on trad climbing mentalities:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B6gAC2YWXLU
Spoiler: pretty much no actual climbing.
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Liked the Jorg one, the final proj looks mega, but God it made me depressed that I live in Sheffield!
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You could move? Well do a whip round, could at least get you to Dover ;D
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rl2LqG7iAYE
The second best man-made route around, after Artificial Route @ Widdop??
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Nah, Doris at Ilkley
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Readza just chucked in Cow Udder too, but neither of them have the line / position as Artificial Route or L'Autre . Doris could be a good third after this one tho.
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Don't forget the excellent but obscure Pocket Wall at Gilstead. Nearly came off that one, scary for a 5m route.
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...
The second best man-made route around, after Artificial Route @ Widdop??
I have to say that the route looks absolutely awful. Gigantic spans between deep incut jugs and pockets... There is one such atrocity at one of our local crags as well (at a more amiable grade) and it is like climbing a retarded indoor route set by a lanky but talentless setter but on less comfortable holds than currently available.
The only saving grace is that there are two kneebars that Fred probably was too shit at climbing to use
La rose et la vampire it ain't
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So are Yorkshire folk better at chipping and drilling than Les Francais?!
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I wouldn't know... the quality of chipping in the South-West is pretty abysmal. (One of the main culprit of making sure that nothing hard will ever be climbed on the giant crag of Capucin in St Antonin is still at it, manufacturing even more 8as at the tender age of 75)
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A story about an epic on a Hard Severe becomes the basis for just about the best thing I've ever seen/read on trad climbing mentalities:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B6gAC2YWXLU
Spoiler: pretty much no actual climbing.
I like that, more good sense from DM. Sections of that would be applicable to most stressful scenarios in life.
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https://youtu.be/KJFtXkZlxEo
Matteo della Bordella - doing his best Dean Potter impersonation - and Fabio Palma shoot the breeze and climb new stuff on Wendenstock. Training tip: go onsighting 7bs but take 2-4 fewer quickdraws than needed. Also, bring lots of bread.
Routes are Portami Via (250m 7c+, not enough bolts), Coelophysis (660m 8a+ 7b obl.) and Infinite Jest (640m 8a+/8b, 7b obl.).
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https://youtu.be/Tl0lJTjLjlY
Chimpanzodrome! Jean-Pierre Bouvier!
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I've only managed to watch it with the sound switched off, but loved Droyer and Bouvier pissing themselves about deliberately downgrading Laurent Jacob's route. I once got to climb with Jean-Claude Droyer at the Roaches.
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What a great series. Only climbed at Saussois once; found it really hard! For a 9a climber he sure makes le Bidule look hard. Hope he goes to Cima.
Ps think Berhault did La Haine at La Loubire as Frances 1st 7c+ just before Bouvier did Chimpanzodrome.
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Loved that.
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Isaac Buckley talking about and using smears.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vLfbzqz5ygM
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Which was amazingly previously mis-posted in the Quality Bouldering Videos thread and at least now is in it's rightful home.
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This is excellent
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G7WGi6PpESU
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Cheers JWI it was an interesting watch despite all the non-grading nonsense ;)
How about some nice very clear footage of foreign dude climbing on some finest UK grot:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HjI7qgltjOU
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Cheers JWI it was an interesting watch despite all the non-grading nonsense ;)
How about some nice very clear footage of a Spaniard climbing on some finest grot:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HjI7qgltjOU
RIP Fiend, don't let eder catch you calling him Spanish hahaha :lol:
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https://youtu.be/Tl0lJTjLjlY
Chimpanzodrome! Jean-Pierre Bouvier!
Well bollox, I'd missed this and just came to post the link in a flurry of excitement.
Very enjoyable indeed, great snippets of sport climbing culture and history that raised a smile, and some cool footage of cool routes.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-QOWm84A_Pw more jolly japes and stunning rock architecture from .CZ
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The overhanging scoop to the left of the route he climb has a route called Tsunami and is one of the most stunning formations I've ever seen. I got talked out of trying which probably was good. There is a really bad video of Adam Ondra climbing it here https://www.epictv.com/media/competition/czech-up-%7C-adam-ondra-climbs-a-sparsely-bolted-sandstone-arte/602993 (from 40s in)
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A great piece of North Wales lime history from Doylo. Only watched the first third so far but really enjoyed the segment on the FA of Megalopa.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBdbUUzdvjg
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Cheers Remus, look forward to putting this on the telly after circuits
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So far my favourite bit is definitely barrows failing on a 7b
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Just started going over to NW Limestone again, that's perfect timing. Great stuff, it's literally the latter part of the NWL guide history come to life. Some really impressive ascents, Megalopa and PUTJ in particular stood out. But Doylog you've got a mighty fine legacy too :)
But yeah my favourite bit is, errr, barrows failing on a 7b :yes:
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I take back whatever I said on the other thread about fiend being right...
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So far my favourite bit is definitely barrows failing on a 7b
It's miles easier for the tall that route too. Literally jug to jug. I've no idea what he was doing.
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Should have downclimbed to the ground to put another kneepad on...
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It's probably 7a+ for his height.
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Maybe he was too tall. It's harder then. Small optimum height window..
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That was great, thanks Doylo.
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I only watched 10 mins and thought i'd seen it before.
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Just a YouTube migration along with everyone else. Will leave the Simpson one on Vimeo though
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I'd actually never seen it so that was ace. Got me really psyched :icon_beerchug:
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Really enjoyed this...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FYA00ZrbPdc&t=885s&ab_channel=RabEquipment
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nUCezb-9gXE
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That really is a beautiful piece of rock.
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The normal access is from above, leaving the rope and jumar out at the end of the day
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Yup that's pretty damn cool.
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Crikey that is quite something. Route looks incredible too.
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Not normally into 'Euro-geezer screams his way up hard sports route' type vids but that is pretty cool.
The normal access is from above, leaving the rope and jumar out at the end of the day
You mean you don't just bring up your second. :lol:
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The normal access is from above, leaving the rope and jumar out at the end of the day
You mean you don't just bring up your second. :lol:
The second can jump off the ledge as far as I am concerned
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What an advert for French limestone that is.
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More french limestone
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b6OvrRbGU68
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40 min of WoG
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eibm8egdy4M
Beat Kammerlander, what a visionary climber!
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I really enjoyed that.
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Very enjoyable indeed.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ooHCWrMBMNY
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Et Bruno Clment?
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n'est pas sponsoris par Grivel...
Anyway, nice to hear from Lionel Catsoyannis who has also been very active putting up new routes in the region. Also includes a rare sighting of Enzo Oddo...
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Whoa. That makes me feel old seeing Enzo now.
Anyway, nice to hear from Lionel Catsoyannis who has also been very active putting up new routes in the region.
I enjoyed his input.
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I know. We bumped into Enzo at buoux in 2010,he was a squeaky kid. Now he's a bald man!
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That was ace, what a wad!
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Good question, that statement caught my eye too. That article is behind a paywall for me unfortunately, but off the top of my head Maddy Cope could be on there for Prinzip Hoffnung (seems to get 13d or 14a depending where you look), and Babsi is the other obvious one. Heather weidner has also done China Doll on trad. With a generous count that makes 7 women straight off. Surely there's more?!
ed. found a way to view that article. 9 on the list so far:
Lynn Hill (If The Nose counts?)
Beth Rodden
Barbara Zangerl
Heather Weidner
Nadine Wallner
Maddy Cope (If Prinzip Hoffnung counts?)
Hazel Findlay
Brittany Goris
Emilie Pellerin
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Lena Marie Mller has also done Prinzip Hoffung
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Seem to remember Maddy thought Prinzip was E9 and 8b? But she is an absolute beast so it could be harder!
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How trad is the crux pitch (8c) on Orbayu? A lot more trad than changing corners I think as the upper part of the pitch is pretty hard and on small wires? Also, I never understood if Nina Caprez freed the crux pitch or not, nevermind the entire route. So tentatively Nina Caprez should go on to the list as well maybe?
Anyway, all this made me reflect on how rare naturally protected routes with high pure difficulty are. I mean, 8b+ is a very pedestrian grade.
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Anyway, all this made me reflect on how rare naturally protected routes with high pure difficulty are. I mean, 8b+ is a very pedestrian grade.
Funny isn't it. The hardest trad (say Tribe (https://climbing-history.org/climb/653/tribe)) is at a level of difficulty that was first established 30 years ago. To me it suggests that the people at the top of sport climbing just aren't that interested in trad (which is fair enough). You can't help but think that if Ondra/Megos/Stefano turned their hand to a bit of trad the top level would go up pretty sharply (e.g. Megos' flash of The Path (https://climbing-history.org/climb/649/the-path) which is 8b+ on trad).
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Surely it makes sense that pieces of rock that only have small holds on dont have runner placements either?
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Surely it makes sense that pieces of rock that only have small holds on dont have runner placements either?
I think that's part of it, but I don't think it explains the whole gap. There's hundreds of 9as about these days, I guess at least a few of them could go on trad if people were interested.
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I hadn't twigged they were the same Nadine Wallner. I knew she climbed but not at that level. She was over in the Peak this summer*. Her Instagram comment make my eyes bleed with the random capitals though....
*weidly it looked from her 'gram that she didn't onsight London Wall which for someone of her pedigree seemed surprising....
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She was on London Wall for a photo shoot, she went for it as her warm-up and it wasnt in the best of conditions.
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Anyway, all this made me reflect on how rare naturally protected routes with high pure difficulty are. I mean, 8b+ is a very pedestrian grade.
Funny isn't it. The hardest trad (say Tribe (https://climbing-history.org/climb/653/tribe)) is at a level of difficulty that was first established 30 years ago. To me it suggests that the people at the top of sport climbing just aren't that interested in trad (which is fair enough). You can't help but think that if Ondra/Megos/Stefano turned their hand to a bit of trad the top level would go up pretty sharply (e.g. Megos' flash of The Path (https://climbing-history.org/climb/649/the-path) which is 8b+ on trad).
And Ondra's fairly casual onsight first ascent of that 7c on gear near the end of the Change film. Actually he falls off and decks near the start, but still. It seems that when he does trad climb, it's fairly near the top standard without really trying too hard (didn't he flash a bunch of E7's in the peak?).
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She was on London Wall for a photo shoot, she went for it as her warm-up and it wasnt in the best of conditions.
That makes sense of it. Doesn't excuse her random capitalisation though.....
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She was on London Wall for a photo shoot, she went for it as her warm-up and it wasnt in the best of conditions.
Sounds like shes excuses world champion too. ;)
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And Ondra's fairly casual onsight first ascent of that 7c on gear near the end of the Change film. Actually he falls off and decks near the start, but still.
😂 Im not an expert in these matters by any stretch, but I think that invalidates the onsight!
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That makes sense of it. Doesn't excuse her random capitalisation though.....
Looks like a graphical representation of how one talks after too much over-caffeinated sugary drink company 😄
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And Ondra's fairly casual onsight first ascent of that 7c on gear near the end of the Change film. Actually he falls off and decks near the start, but still.
😂 Im not an expert in these matters by any stretch, but I think that invalidates the onsight!
Only if he weighted the gear, clean deckout is the same as downclimbing or jumping down :)
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But way cooler. ;)
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And Ondra's fairly casual onsight first ascent of that 7c on gear near the end of the Change film. Actually he falls off and decks near the start, but still.
😂 Im not an expert in these matters by any stretch, but I think that invalidates the onsight!
Hence my last sentence.
Point is, he doesn't seem to think much of going for it up a 7c new route on small cams
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Not watched it yet, but the latest episode in Seb Bouin's vintage rock tour series - Cimai:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h3UPk7OcCeg
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Point is, he doesn't seem to think much of going for it up a 7c new route on small cams
I don't think much of it going for a F5c new route on small cams, which relatively and proportionately indicates the French vs. trad grading system seems to be working spot on.
(Talking of 5c climbing on small cams, I finally got around to do the Ged photo-tick in the Lakes Eastern Crags guide after seeing it for many years i.e. Top Gear, and found the Shield section both fairly amenable and bloody brilliant, although I shat myself in the "high chance of breaking legs on ledge below" groove section just before that).
Also....
Surely it makes sense that pieces of rock that only have small holds on dont have runner placements either?
I think that's part of it, but I don't think it explains the whole gap. There's hundreds of 9as about these days, I guess at least a few of them could go on trad if people were interested.
....I think this discussion definitely has some mileage :yes:
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A lot of steep and featured tufa routes are most definitely possible to climb on gear. For instance, Coliseum in Rodellar is regularly done on trad gear by locals, which made me considered that if you accept such long runouts with gear in such questionable rock many other routes in the sector are surely at least as well protected as Coliseum. Especially routes which are more endurance-based in character where the climber with a bit of margin and endless stamina surely can downclimb out of trouble if it arises.
Cleaning and securing some key holds with sika on steep featured limestone is already a nightmare with a drill in hand. Without.... I can see that it will never take hold...
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Not watched it yet, but the latest episode in Seb Bouin's vintage rock tour series - Cimai:
It is very good, of course!
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Not watched it yet, but the latest episode in Seb Bouin's vintage rock tour series - Cimai:
It is very good, of course!
There's a reaon I could post in quality without having watched it.
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Another goodie. Pschitt's fingers :o
Cima looks great. I presume the 6s and 7s are nails and I'd get totally spanked?
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I know Black Bean is "only" 8b, but some of those runouts doing it on gear look pretty big. Maybe Ceuse rock is a bit more solid and accepts gear a bit more readily than Rodellar?
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I know Black Bean is "only" 8b
8b/b+. At least that is what I told myself. I think there are quite a lot of routes in Rodellar that has more gear than Black Bean. I would not like to fall on the cams Arnaud put between the tufas on the first pitch. The gear (far) below the crux must otoh be completely bomber.
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Not watched it yet, but the latest episode in Seb Bouin's vintage rock tour series - Cimai:
It is very good, of course!
Excellent. Those pics of JBT on are great. Yoss should use them for TRT II
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Lovely stuff as usual.
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Point is, he doesn't seem to think much of going for it up a 7c new route on small cams
I don't think much of it going for a F5c new route on small cams, which relatively and proportionately indicates the French vs. trad grading system seems to be working spot on.
(Talking of 5c climbing on small cams, I finally got around to do the Ged photo-tick in the Lakes Eastern Crags guide after seeing it for many years i.e. Top Gear, and found the Shield section both fairly amenable and bloody brilliant, although I shat myself in the "high chance of breaking legs on ledge below" groove section just before that).
What a route. I seem to remember the runout being overhyped. But I was young and childless then. AND I was wearing those rubbish white and red scarpa shoes that looked like David Beckhams football boots. I'd probably shit myself now.
I'll have to repay the photo tick by visiting an obscure remote dartmoor tor.
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https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/m000yt2z/right-here-series-1-5-farewell-to-adventure
A very touching portrait of Bob Shepton, and his coming to terms with winding down his life of adventure. Well worth a watch.
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That was ace. A really moving portrait of an interesting man. Touching on so many different emotions. Both happy and melancholy.
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https://youtu.be/2YLLephVXyU
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Nice video of Nalle doing some deep water soloing in Finland. He seems much more chilled and happy in this video. In some of his other recent offerings I was worried he'd lost the psyche a bit.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pDNU0iUFDKE
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Nice video, I think it might not be from this year as here is another video from last year of the climb getting its 2nd ascent.
www.youtube.com/watch?v=GDdk_axfNQQ (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GDdk_axfNQQ)
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Nice video of Nalle doing some deep water soloing in Finland. He seems much more chilled and happy in this video. In some of his other recent offerings I was worried he'd lost the psyche a bit.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pDNU0iUFDKE
Very cool! Though that inky black water looks about as inviting as a slap on the chops.
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If it's the Baltic (or a Finnish lake), it will be extremely pleasant at this time of year.
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That's good to hear. I once did some soloing on Mingulay with the same colour sea and it was agony trying to get out after dropping in, such was the temperature. :jab:
As an aside, it's rather strange falling in freshwater, having only soloed above saltwater, you go much deeper when you pencil in and it takes much longer to come back up!
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Nice video, I think it might not be from this year as here is another video from last year of the climb getting its 2nd ascent.
Not the same route as the one focused on in the video Jamie posted.
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That was great. I like Nalle's new haircut, more handsome and more Finnish machine rather than floppy indie kid. Also a floating sauna at the crag FFS!
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yFuEMeadycA
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https://youtu.be/V69E1aHIdVQ
Such an amazing looking route
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Sammy Dahlman makes very contemplative climbing videos. I like his style.
Here is one in which Matilda Sderlund climbs Elder Statesman, among other things, in the Frankenjura
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XQXVS8mHkDg
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Half climbing film, half life story; the climbing is gorgeous hard techy trad, and the life story is important.
I've got a bunch of trans and non-binary friends, so this one means a lot to me (also, check the content warnings because it deals with some hard stuff).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ahuiQT4xMdw
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Essential viewing for twats like me.
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I've really struggled with the recent surge in trans / anti trans, anti-transphobic culture wars.
I thought this film was brilliant. Really helped me get it.
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Looking forward to finding the time to watch this.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NdLUe2M04PA
Amazing video, as usual from Relais Vertical, about Baptiste Dherbilly's repeat of Mandallaz Drive. Bien old school. And as usual, they have added english subs.
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Thats really good.
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Looking forward to finding the time to watch this.
Finally found the time, though broken up into a couple of chunks - I thought this was very well done, with the climbing and life-story really nicely balanced and integrated. I thought they came across really well too; thoughtful, honest, and wry. Thanks to slab_happy for the original post.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NdLUe2M04PA
Amazing video, as usual from Relais Vertical, about Baptiste Dherbilly's repeat of Mandallaz Drive. Bien old school. And as usual, they have added english subs.
That's an absolute corker. Love his psyche for weird moves on ratty holds.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NdLUe2M04PA
Amazing video, as usual from Relais Vertical, about Baptiste Dherbilly's repeat of Mandallaz Drive. Bien old school. And as usual, they have added english subs.
That's an absolute corker. Love his psyche for weird moves on ratty holds.
Horses for courses. I found that to the most boring thing I've watched in a while.
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I very much agree with one of the two opinions posted just above.
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I very much agree with one of the two opinions posted just above.
0/3 stars?
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Sure this has been on here before, but I do love Arnaud Petit:
https://youtu.be/-TeTejh1ebs
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Sad robot!
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I think I get why the Norwegian route on the Troll Wall rarely gets done
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K995_VUb-8I
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The troll wall vid is great. Looks utterly harrowing!
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Half climbing film, half life story; the climbing is gorgeous hard techy trad, and the life story is important.
I've got a bunch of trans and non-binary friends, so this one means a lot to me (also, check the content warnings because it deals with some hard stuff).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ahuiQT4xMdw
Watched this last night. It's not light entertainment but it is essential viewing. Having a common passion is a great way to learn about other people, and when you can't live an experience for yourself, understand people through their lived experiences. It's both light-hearted in its approach to the climbing and open and honest (and shocking in places, see slab_'s content warning!) in its approach to their life story.
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Half climbing film, half life story; the climbing is gorgeous hard techy trad, and the life story is important.
I've got a bunch of trans and non-binary friends, so this one means a lot to me (also, check the content warnings because it deals with some hard stuff).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ahuiQT4xMdw
Watched this last night. It's not light entertainment but it is essential viewing. Having a common passion is a great way to learn about other people, and when you can't live an experience for yourself, understand people through their lived experiences. It's both light-hearted in its approach to the climbing and open and honest (and shocking in places, see slab_'s content warning!) in its approach to their life story.
I watched this on the weekend and enjoyed it. Philosophically/politically my views are "gender-critical" and I often find the way the trans rights movement works deeply disturbing, so for someone of my views it's even more important to watch a film like this. Plus the climbing footage is really good and I enjoyed the total lack of macho bullshit.
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I watched this on the weekend and enjoyed it. Philosophically/politically my views are "gender-critical" and I often find the way the trans rights movement works deeply disturbing, so for someone of my views it's even more important to watch a film like this. Plus the climbing footage is really good and I enjoyed the total lack of macho bullshit.
Very curious about what (if any) effect the film had on your gender critical views?
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I watched this on the weekend and enjoyed it. Philosophically/politically my views are "gender-critical" and I often find the way the trans rights movement works deeply disturbing, so for someone of my views it's even more important to watch a film like this. Plus the climbing footage is really good and I enjoyed the total lack of macho bullshit.
Very curious about what (if any) effect the film had on your gender critical views?
Well, none, I mean I hold those views for a reason and the film didn't touch on those at all. But certainly good to hear the stories of trans people and get an insight into their lives, whatever you think about the political aspects of the trans issue.
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good to hear the stories of trans people and get an insight into their lives, whatever you think about the political aspects of the trans issue.
It certainly is! I hope that hearing the stories of more trans people and gaining an insight into their lives eventually persuades you that it might be more helpful to frame trans rights as a social issue rather than a political or
philosophical one :)
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good to hear the stories of trans people and get an insight into their lives, whatever you think about the political aspects of the trans issue.
It certainly is! I hope that hearing the stories of more trans people and gaining an insight into their lives eventually persuades you that it might be more helpful to frame trans rights as a social issue rather than a political or
philosophical one :)
Well, the question of what rights we have and how we claim those rights is always political and philosophical! But whilst we will have to agree to disagree, I definitely liked the film.
One thing that did annoy me about it tho - and this has nothing at all to do with the trans aspect of the film at all - is the sheer bloody Protestant earnestness about climbing that seeps into so many films these days, particularly American ones. Jeez, all this crap about learning experiences and self improvment and all that, it's so worthy.
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Yeah, very American. I prefer the simple "I went rock climbing and it was fuckin' awesome" narrative myself...
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Theyre crap. The best ones are tinged with madness.
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I always feel American climbing films are played in very broad strokes- out-and-out comedy sections making way (very obviously, often with comically dramatic music) to earnestly serious bits and not much that fits in the vast area inbetween.
I have watched They/ Them yet though as its so long! Im so used to sitting down to watch what I expect to be an hour long meaty climbing film only to find its about 20 minutes long and the actual climbing footage is an afterthought (Girls Gone Wide higher up this thread is a good example- I really wanted to like that as the people in it seem really nice but theres just so little decent climbing in it!) that its a surprise to come across one thats 100+ minutes.
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...its a surprise to come across one thats 100+ minutes.
Maybe worth noting that They/Them is 'only' 60mins. There's a ~30min Q and A afterwards.
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so little decent climbing
You might want to give the Troll Wall one a wide berth...
Chossfest cliff, but at least it's compensated for by the, errrr, shuffling grass-bashing.
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:lol: Yeah I watched that last night. They really captured the get spooked by loose rock, stop enjoying yourselves and just try and get off the cliff as soon as possible vibe.
I meant decent climbing footage but I missed a word out. Either works in the Troll Wall case but I often feel like films have people climbing interesting routes but theyre either filmed from obscure angles/ onscreen for hardly any time at all/ butchered in the edit and as a result its frustrating to watch.
Maybe worth noting that They/Them is 'only' 60mins. There's a ~30min Q and A afterwards.
:slap:
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Incidentally, for anyone who wants the nerdy details on the route Lor's working on in the film (as there was a deliberate directorial decision to avoid mention of grades etc.):
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web21w/newswire-lor-sabourin-sends-cousin-of-death
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For anyone who hasn't seen this from the Wide Boys:
https://youtu.be/QTT2TRhuJQY
It really is a great wall, and stunning effort. Beautiful view down the arte of Earth Rim Romer/Earth-Sea.
:clap2: :2thumbsup:
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3VjBVtZxKec
Thought this had some good footage in, especially the go it got done. Looks cool.
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found myself a new little crag to bolt the other week - this one was the pick of the bunch (okay, it's not an 'quality chuffing video', but it is an awesome line)
https://youtu.be/aRE9R_olxTQ
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Looks like a lovely spot.
Have fond memories of climbing in HK. Dimple Face was my first proper sport climbing redpoint 26 year ago.
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Dimple Face was my first proper sport climbing redpoint 26 year ago.
Probably my fav route in the whole of HK - guessing i've clocked well over 300 trips up it over the years as it'll get a lap or two on most days out on Tung Lung ;D
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https://youtu.be/m-7yAvIF9NI
a trip down memory lane for kc ;)
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y10yHE7snDI
Putting this here as well as the SigRep thread, not because its Janja, not because of the grade, but just because it's so good to see some proper onsighting. Think we can all relate to her struggle with the sun in her eyes!
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also, no kneepads, not many hard routes done like that these days I guess?
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Maybe this has already been shared, but I absolutely loved this Reel Rock episode about climbers
from Memphis going ice climbing: https://www.over-caffeinated sugary drink company.com/gb-en/episodes/reel-rock-s7-e9
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5CUvvxcr1EU (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5CUvvxcr1EU)
uncut send footage of Alex Megos on King Capella
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Christmas pudding.
http://escalade9.wifeo.com/hugh.php
https://youtu.be/DuMxIC6qdp8
Well worth a second helping of, if it's up already.
Who wouldn't want to gorge themselves on Akira, with it being described as "Super resistant.. 30 moves.. one rest.. no harder than 7A boulder..".
Anyone want to go? ;D
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Doesn't really compute that, does it? Not sure I've ever done a 360 spin on a mono on any 7A boulders!
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Yeah looks like """7A""" graded by an >> 8B boulderer, or using moonboard grading ::)
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https://youtu.be/XeH9O7aU-kQ
Fabulous looking wall in a stunning setting. I like it how he makes it sound really romantic with his girlfriend when he wanted her to go up there and hold his ropes whilst dogging the project.
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I enjoy the videos on this JimBo Films channel, just show, dont tell, documentary-style footage of routes in Arizona that youve never heard of with titles that are just the name and grade. Lovely stuff.
https://youtu.be/D8AvQ3MUh24
https://youtu.be/6yTb8THttgc
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Those are nice vids, but I couldnt get through the first one because I just wanted to buy that lass some knee pads.
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I liked this. Sorry never learned to embed
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3Qln7Ui7Gvo
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The end was a bit bizarre haha!
Just found out I have the same birthday (separated by 18 years) as Antoine LM!
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Lovely thanks Niall
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Fuck me that route looks incredable! I thought the end was quite funny.
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The BMC have put the film about Emma Twyford's ascent of Big Bang up on youtube. Nice flick if you haven't seen it before.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrJ5fH_rDtg
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Has Steve Mc ever got on a route and not thought Ill never be able to do this!
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The BMC have put the film about Emma Twyford's ascent of Big Bang up on youtube. Nice flick if you haven't seen it before.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrJ5fH_rDtg
Nice to see some footage of Emma doing Big Bang but what the fuck is Gresh doing speaking on it!? Hes never climbed 9a, not put any time into the route. Steve is the most appropriate one and even hes massively inappropriate. Why not interview Caff, Neil Carson, some of Emmas female contemporaries like Mina or hazel or maddy? Seemed weird to me.
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Because, Duncan, you need some sponsored male heavyweights to validate the achievement, otherwise how would we understand its significance?
I've not been too impressed with either of the two films I've seen by DP (the other being Olympiad). Climber wants to climb hard thing. Talks about how hard it is. Other climbers confirm how hard it is. Climber climbs hard thing. Uplifting music. Yawn.
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Why not interview Caff, Neil Carson, some of Emmas female contemporaries like Mina or hazel or maddy? Seemed weird to me.
The choice of interviewees is a slightly painful flaw, as is ignoring the history of the route. It has a strange element of The Men judging her, even if they are being complimentary. The weirdest thing for me was that it didn't make clear that none of these superhero men have actually climbed the route!
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Climber wants to climb hard thing. Talks about how hard it is. Other climbers confirm how hard it is. Climber climbs hard thing. Uplifting music. Yawn.
:agree: The flaw with the sponsored climber on hard project film is that theres absolutely zero jeopardy as the audience all know that they got up it.
If its a big wall and/ or in a far-flung location then theres the interest of learning about the route and its surroundings but when its a single pitch on a familiar roadside crag there has to be a pretty sensational back- or side-story.
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Why not interview Caff, Neil Carson, some of Emmas female contemporaries like Mina or hazel or maddy?
The lack of NC's inclusion was noted when it came out, and led to Shark tracking him down and doing a great interview with him..
https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,30594.msg607002.html#msg607002
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Why not interview Caff, Neil Carson, some of Emmas female contemporaries like Mina or hazel or maddy? Seemed weird to me.
The choice of interviewees is a slightly painful flaw, as is ignoring the history of the route. It has a strange element of The Men judging her, even if they are being complimentary. The weirdest thing for me was that it didn't make clear that none of these superhero men have actually climbed the route!
I didnt really feel that after the opening few minutes where it unfortunately does come across as a touch Mansplainy. After that I thought both Ste and Neils insight really added to it. Jerry less so. Agreed it wouldve been good to have someone like Lucy Creamer involved, given she was probably the pre-eminent female all rounder of the previous generation.
I actually really liked the film from the music and some of the cinematography, to the way we moved from place to place. The footage of Big Issue was brilliant. The whole part about going off to the Dolomites, then returning with renewed psyche and confidence was really interesting given ultimately she was trying to succeed on a totally different type of climb.
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That's a really beautiful film, and I got really emotional watching it.
Loved Steve's insight at 20'+ totally capturing the joy of those incremental improvements, although that may not be quite where Emma is at the moment.
I thought it captured the ebb and flow, the getting closer, further away and back again really well.
Totally agree with the Gresh's comments about route setting. I used to think that about Steve. Hodding bricks all day would be easier!
Agree with a lot of the comments about possible other input, but what there was didn't detract from Emma's own journey.
Jerry has a nice watch ;)
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Just watched it, loved it didn't really expect to. Dave and Tom's previous comments sum it up for me.
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Nice to see some footage of the local crag :) I thought the film was a nice story about Emma's journey over the course of a couple of years of trying the Big Bang, rather than a film about the Big Bang itself - which would be a very different film. A film about the story of hard sport in the UK and the characters involved in the FA's would be a great project for someone and would get lots of praise from dedicated geeks - Statement, Mecca, Evo, Hubble, Big Bang, Mutation, Rainman, Brandenburg Gate, (VNB?) etc. etc. I'd love to see that story done well on film. But it probably wouldn't gain the attention of the average everyday climbing flick 'consumer' who were probably more the target audience for this. One for Doylo perhaps..
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Yeah - actually enjoyed that and I struggle to get excited about 'climber climbs very hard sport route after a long campaign type videos.
I thought Jerrys watch to be a bit garish :-\.
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Jerry's inclusion has more relevance than Gresh's given that he did a similarly landmark route a few metres to the left. Not that this is touched upon. They're obviously in there cos they're famous and can spin a decent soundbite. Understandable to maximise the appeal but as said a bit weird no female commentary which would have balanced the famous old-bloke- explaining-vibe a bit. like Pete said it does a good job capturing Emmas journey, never meant to be a deep dive into the route which would have less mass appeal.
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Not that I didn't enjoy it, but personally I thought the whole thing seemed driven by mass appeal. A fair aim for a film, but maybe not one that will win lots of people round on here?
The thing that actually stood out to me the most was when Steve was described as "Britain's Best Sport Climber". Not that he hasn't achieved the hardest grades - it's certainly a justifiable claim (ignoring Will's recent efforts) - but that seems very contrary to the way people are typically described in the climbing world. Not sure you'd even get Adam Ondra starring in a video and then being described as the world's best, even though nobody is gonna argue that. Would have been much more comfortable with, at the very least, "One of Britain's top sport climbers".
To me, a beauty of climbing is its incomparable nature, how the range of styles and subjectivity of grades make declaring a "Best..." nigh on impossible. I imagine people who don't climb much would maybe not share or appreciate this sentiment, hence the inclusion in the film, but it really jarred when I saw it.
Otherwise, the shots of Emma in Pembroke stood out as really good, and the rest was shot well too. It's a good, enjoyable watch.
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The thing that actually stood out to me the most was when Steve was described as "Britain's Best Sport Climber". Not that he hasn't achieved the hardest grades - it's certainly a justifiable claim (ignoring Will's recent efforts) - but that seems very contrary to the way people are typically described in the climbing world. Not sure you'd even get Adam Ondra starring in a video and then being described as the world's best, even though nobody is gonna argue that. Would have been much more comfortable with, at the very least, "One of Britain's top sport climbers".
I don't think it's very British but it was certainly true (and pretty uncontroversial) at the time that Steve was the best sport climber in the UK. Will had 'only' climbed 9a by the time Emma climbed big bang.
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I don't think it's very British but it was certainly true (and pretty uncontroversial) at the time that Steve was the best sport climber in the UK. Will had 'only' climbed 9a by the time Emma climbed big bang.
I do agree, I wasn't arguing the validity of the claim, just how unusual it was.
Maybe the word I was looking for was British-ness then. Now I think of it, I could maybe see it happening in a reel rock, or something similarly faux-dramatic.
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Not that I didn't enjoy it, but personally I thought the whole thing seemed driven by mass appeal. A fair aim for a film, but maybe not one that will win lots of people round on here?
The thing that actually stood out to me the most was when Steve was described as "Britain's Best Sport Climber". Not that he hasn't achieved the hardest grades - it's certainly a justifiable claim (ignoring Will's recent efforts) - but that seems very contrary to the way people are typically described in the climbing world. Not sure you'd even get Adam Ondra starring in a video and then being described as the world's best, even though nobody is gonna argue that. Would have been much more comfortable with, at the very least, "One of Britain's top sport climbers".
To me, a beauty of climbing is its incomparable nature, how the range of styles and subjectivity of grades make declaring a "Best..." nigh on impossible. I imagine people who don't climb much would maybe not share or appreciate this sentiment, hence the inclusion in the film, but it really jarred when I saw it.
Otherwise, the shots of Emma in Pembroke stood out as really good, and the rest was shot well too. It's a good, enjoyable watch.
There's a film about ondra that starts with honnold stating that "Adam ondra is the best climber in the world, by a long way. He's a lot better than everyone else"
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There's a film about ondra that starts with honnold stating that "Adam ondra is the best climber in the world, by a long way. He's a lot better than everyone else"
Sure, but that's his opinion, as opposed to a title when Adam appears on screen.
Tbh I'm pretty sure I got far more carried away writing that than I actually felt about it - I probably only thought "that's a bit odd" when I first saw it. But might as well let loose when bored on a Saturday night ;D
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6QEKtOJWq0g&t=346s
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UCmwXRj_XEU
Anyone else following this adventure by Seb Berthe and his friends?
Sounds like a fantastic act of expression and imagination.
A few people have commented on the relative environmental impact - a group of people sailing a boat across the Atlantic, then hiring a bus for the drive from Mexico to Yosemite, vs flying.
Sorry, I think it's an amazing effort, and those trying to put down the achievement seem to be arguing for the sort of blas nonchalance and self-absorbed excuses used to justify not changing our habits ;)
I would have thought the relative impact is considerably lower, and then there's the creative way of helping influence the way we think about our "adventuring". :2thumbsup:
Thoughts anyone?
Sorry, wasn't quite sure where to put it.
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Wow not heard of this (or had time to watch it yet) but this sounds v v impressive!
Sailing is obvs the most environmentally friendly option for travelling surely!?
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Yes, that's what I thought.
Sounds like an amazing adventure.
Maybe "splash board" refers to puking up while trying to do the green circuit in a big swell.
Would really love to sail more, but suffer badly :sick: to begin with.
Sounds like they're in recon mode, preparing for Dawn Wall.
Amazing, and hats off to them regardless of the outcome.
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.
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The BMC have put the film about Emma Twyford's ascent of Big Bang up on youtube. Nice flick if you haven't seen it before.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IrJ5fH_rDtg
This film is just sort of, terrible really. It isn't worth me deconstructing, some of the points have been mentioned. As acknowledged at its heart is a missed opportunity. Sort of shocking that it won the Kendall big prize, I guess that was more a vote for Emma's achievement.
One thing someone mentioned; that they've somehow chosen mass appeal. Too much credit in that idea. I think its as good as they could do, and could not have contrived to take any particular position.
And as someone else mentioned; almost from the first frame all I could think about was Jerrys gold Daytona. Both the physical embodiment and logical conclusion of the mansplaining thats been referred to.
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https://youtu.be/OneTmfEsANI
Sean Bailey's astonishing 2021.
Didn't realise how close he'd got to flashing 9a+
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Sean Bailey's astonishing 2021.
Didn't realise how close he'd got to flashing 9a+
Really enjoyed this, and the flash attempt footage was great
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That was great!
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https://youtu.be/knxL3pPf1Gs
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That's a great film, always love these Swiss multipitch ones, even though it falls well outside of my personal climbing! I know it's stating the obvious, but what a beautiful country.
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Some beautiful vistas when it is not raining...
Nevertheless I am well psyched on going back to Wendenstcke. The best rock ever. Une falaise de oufe, as Cedric would say.
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Lovely pictures, fabulous looking places, Wendenstcke is amazing and if anyone has any interest in long routes they should go there, but there is a reason the countryside is so emerald green! As Roger Schaeli said about Odyssee, you need a "lucky summer" (it took him 17 attempts to redpoint the crux pitch (https://rogerschaeli.ch/en/routes/2015/odyssee)). It's not surprising it was the only one Lachat didn't manage despite having the smallest number attached.
The vintage footage and interviews with the Remys was fun.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jEQ-46aPIFg
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Quality foot shuffling vids
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Rainshadow by Luke
www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=208&v=6R9kjodsTGY&feature=emb_title (http://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=208&v=6R9kjodsTGY&feature=emb_title)
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Some beautiful vistas when it is not raining...
Doing the drive to Grimselpass from Cham, to sit in the car in the rain waiting to see if we will get Motorhead done was almost an annual pilgrimage.
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Thought this was superb
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OOCq9kOgF8I&t=1255s
Friends Of The Grit | A Peak District Climbing Odyssey
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I enjoyed that too.
He does look a bit like some of the classical depictions of Odysseus.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6BRrUSCBDwo
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dZl4uLyABow
El Bon Combat. Rullo-Diaz did the route two years ago but I think the video is new?
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Enjoyed that. Proper dedication. For some reason he reminds me of Spanish Alex Honnold. Not sure why. The mannerisms, the hoody, the dirt bag existence, . . .
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... big ears, good at free soloing
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That was really good :thumbsup:
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I don't think we've had this before? Carlo Traversi makes the 4th ascent of Magic Line in Feb of this. Nicely done, very low key and straightforward:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gFY7RtPglQM
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Really liked that as well.
(I think that people should brush off their ticks when they are done with the route though. But maybe it was someone else ticks... 🤷🏼♂️)
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Among the most legendary seilschafts in the Pyrenees, two parties particularly stand out to me. The first is Rabado and Navarro on the southern side and the Ravier brothers on the northern side. Here is an old 51 min production on the latter from France 3. Understandably it focus on the routes they did north of the border. Cameos from the second Ravier generation and perhaps the greatest Pyreeneist of them all, Serge Casteran (on the screen shot).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YSwCFbdPQCg
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Theyre the old model Hiangles
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To avoid having to find the top of the route and setting up a rap line to hang in on all the holds before the flash, voila:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X3ANhcGrZgM
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St Leger is awesome. I need to go back!
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forgive my ignorance of St Leger rock formations, but those two pockets at 7:13 look very artifical?
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I'll admit I thought that when i watched the video of Ondra onsighting it.
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The mono does not look manufactured to me, the two-finger could be. Hard to tell.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KJWAzUOvDEI
Interesting to hear that Dave would give Echo wall E10 if he were to grade it now.
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great video!
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Interesting to hear that Dave would give Echo wall E10 if he were to grade it now.
Given that it was a low snow year, it might actually be climbable now. Still doubt there will be wads lining up to give it a try though.
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For all the talk of lexicon being over graded, that last move looks pretty tasty, above an unthinkable fall.
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Kind of a shame Dave Mac didnt test the fall onto his skyhook/wire on the head wall. Would be interesting to see if it held.
He must have felt like it would or had a fairly good chance of doing so to place them in such a strenny position.
The lexicon head wall looks like a tricky place to decide which option to go for;
not faff with gear in the hopes you dont fall off but if you do you take an absolute monster that may be a ground fall.
Or faff about getting some higher gear that makes falling off more likely this fall could be not so bad or it could still be an absolute monster/ground fall.
First option sounds a little better to me. But not much
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I guess the option depends on your fitness level. If you are feeling strong enough to place it you would! Well I would!
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Back around for XXXR at the end. Doesnt seem to start in the right place. Unless he was just a bit slow starting the camera.
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Interesting that he had pretty full on jelly legs at the end there! The move to the slot did not look solid at all and if you compare to his earlier working attempts at that move he's so much scrappier.
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I guess the option depends on your fitness level. If you are feeling strong enough to place it you would! Well I would!
Yeah true, but for me i would have to be fairly certain it was going to stop me, otherwise it just makes the big fall much more likely. I guess the added benefit of maybe not pulling your belayer up as much is also a bonus. I imagine Dave know much more than me about this stuff, but still interesting
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Nice video about the "process"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nz0bp6cC-jk
with and accompanying quality article here https://www.emontana-magazine.com/betom-8c-miso-burian-elbe-valley/
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I would have loved a 7c version of that route. Exactly the same moves but every hold just that bit bigger/more positive.
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Thought the recent Magnus Midtbo vid with Alex Honnold was memorable. I can't remember seeing many climbing films with that kind of footage - of someone who virtually never solos having to handle the experience of being outside their comfort zone and keep in control of their emotions on a big multi pitch solo. Obvious physically easy but it was clearly challenging to the point of being a little uncomfortable to watch. Felt more on edge than watching Free Solo crazily.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cyya23MPoAI
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Whilst watching it I was under the impression that was Magnus' first multi-pitch solo, so was quite surprised to hear about this from 2016
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JRl1LRlvVHA (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JRl1LRlvVHA)
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I saw this generate a lot of debate (social media etc.) with many, mostly Americans, being pretty appalled and disturbed, partly because Midtbo appeared pressured (some of it undoubtedly coming from himself) into doing it and being clearly deeply uncomfortable at points, combined with Honnold being relaxed and blas to the point of recklessness (not vis-a-vis himself, but Midtbo). The second issue was the fact that it's being posted on Youtube as some kind of rad extreme sport adventure for Midtbo's large and largely non-climbing audience, who were reacting as might be expected in the comments, oblivious to the seriousness with which something like this should be approached. .
Personally, if they want to go soloing together then that's their business, and it was a decision they were both responsible for. To be honest, I didn't think Midtbo ever looked that uncomfortable. Making it into a Youtube video was probably a really bad idea though.
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Whilst watching it I was under the impression that was Magnus' first multi-pitch solo, so was quite surprised to hear about this from 2016
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JRl1LRlvVHA (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JRl1LRlvVHA)
What route is that? Gives me the jeebies
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Whilst watching it I was under the impression that was Magnus' first multi-pitch solo, so was quite surprised to hear about this from 2016
[... video ]
What route is that? Gives me the jeebies
I cannot identify the route with any confidence, but it looks to me like it is perhaps on the Carelle sector. Something just to the [climbers] left of the Ticket Danger raps perhaps?
[I guesstimate the grade to be in the low-mid 6 from general Verdon knowledge]
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https://youtu.be/CycQ4_cJUFU
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Nice video about the "process"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Nz0bp6cC-jk
with and accompanying quality article here https://www.emontana-magazine.com/betom-8c-miso-burian-elbe-valley/
I would have loved a 6c version of that route. Exactly the same moves but every hold just a lot bigger/more positive.
Also maybe less joss sticks.
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I like this attempt at something a bit different
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_JhvNuFg1es
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This should be a good series. Stefano is documenting the process on Silence:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TNT-JTAhM9o
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This should be a good series. Stefano is documenting the process on Silence:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TNT-JTAhM9o
Good to see even the wads have to spend a bit of time puntering around before it starts to come together.
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Next Silence video. The 'power scream' secret ingredient at the start is pretty funny.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R_05FOORhgw
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UQs4KNRBHss
Free solo of Moulin Rouge, 7b, on Rotwand
(https://www.bergsteigen.com/fileadmin/userdaten/tour/topo/23862/moulin-rouge-rotwand-klettern-topo.png)
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qdkccLAMzJ4&ab_channel=StefanoGhisolfi
Thought this was good, interesting to see how cool the rock is and also see the shit state of some of the fixed gear in the cave :o
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Those massive chicken heads are totally amazing!
It looked like one bolt was so close to the wall it was stopping the crab sitting freely?
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qdkccLAMzJ4&ab_channel=StefanoGhisolfi
Thought this was good, interesting to see how cool the rock is and also see the shit state of some of the fixed gear in the cave :o
I had exactly the same thoughts while watching - the juggy section pre crux looks incredible, ridiculous shapes. And one of the draws he climbs past looks pretty lethal.
I'll be sure to study this in greater detail before booking flights to give it a go! :lol:
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The juggy section before the route starts properly is the better part of an 8b+ that felt surprisingly OK. I went up it once at the end of our stay and did all moves except the first two right away. Very good route as well, but a tad steep for my taste
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Those massive chicken heads are totally amazing!
It looked like one bolt was so close to the wall it was stopping the crab sitting freely?
Yep, I noticed that, absolute biner snapper!
At the risk of turning this into a ukc 'best practice' thread, I also got the shivers seeing the cats cradle of quickdraws and static ropes which were sometimes clipped into single bolts with multiple biners.
Was also interested to hear that he thought the 8c starting section added nothing and the route could also be started by jugging up a static. Definitely glad people seem to be starting from the ground, makes it way more coherent. Is the very start a winch to the first bolt?
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I really liked the shot showing where the route goes, it's actually a pretty good line going very directly through almost a bulging prow feature. That said, it does also then seem to finish slap bang in the middle of nowhere.
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I really liked the shot showing where the route goes, it's actually a pretty good line going very directly through almost a bulging prow feature. That said, it does also then seem to finish slap bang in the middle of nowhere.
Silence L2 is gonna be a great 10a when someone gets around to finishing it off properly.
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Those massive chicken heads are totally amazing!
It looked like one bolt was so close to the wall it was stopping the crab sitting freely?
Yep, I noticed that, absolute biner snapper!
At the risk of turning this into a ukc 'best practice' thread, I also got the shivers seeing the cats cradle of quickdraws and static ropes which were sometimes clipped into single bolts with multiple biners.
That's where Ben Davison fell from, probably caused by the amount of confused tat swinging around. It does need cleaning up.
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Silence L2 is gonna be a great 10a when someone gets around to finishing it off properly.
5.10a? :)
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ANCp3SxDKO8
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What a glorious feature!
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Agree, great feature. Looks like there is a crimpy option for the top move too? seems to skip something that's chalked up.
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Impressive flash great footage, I really rate all the rumblr vids. Seems like a great scene down there
https://youtu.be/eBDIgxfufX8 (https://youtu.be/eBDIgxfufX8)
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https://youtu.be/lfL9_r5SIDA
Buster on Action Directe
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nice! Proper wobbly ascent!
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Really like those monoculture films, seem to do better than most at making sport climbing good to watch. Nice to see a real fight too, so often redpoints look piss on camera.
Bit OT but it looks like he'd def deck out for the last few moves, surely there's another bolt that he didn't clip? Seems odd not to, ok it's easy up there, but given the vegetation and wet rock, why wouldn't you?
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nkn_nLKA0aE
Worth it for the commentary alone
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Worth it for the commentary alone
Patta?
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Patta in both senses, ie. the person and the Scottish slang for banter
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https://youtu.be/lfL9_r5SIDA
Buster on Action Directe
Very nice, good commentary on the process.
Duma - there is a quickdraw in the bright patch of sunlight that he skips yes.
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That was great. For some reason my wife watched it, and she hates climbing vids. :-\ :-\
Out of interest, did Wolfgang use a heel hook? I didn't think they existed in the early 90's. Must be a bit more of a brutal move without.
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That was great. For some reason my wife watched it, and she hates climbing vids. :-\ :-\
Out of interest, did Wolfgang use a heel hook? I didn't think they existed in the early 90's. Must be a bit more of a brutal move without.
They were used at that time but not marginal ones like that and given the limited number of climbing shoes I cant see it being used.
People still wore socks inside their boots. :o
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Pretty sure lots of people have done it without a heel
Ondra didnt use one and he did it after they were invented
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I'm always curious how a lot of stuff, boulders especially, were done without heel hooks and I guess toe hooks?
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Probably different, maybe slightly harder, sequences??
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https://youtu.be/lfL9_r5SIDA
Buster on Action Directe
That was lovely.
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https://youtu.be/lfL9_r5SIDA
Buster on Action Directe
That was a great film. Looked like in the end he was just stronger than the route, cutting loose on the section he'd been trying to step-through on. Very fitting.
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Nice film.
Size 3 shoe! Is Buster tiny?
P.S. I swear there's a famous b&w of Don Whillans heel hooking on some grit thing...
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Whenever I see a news report about Buster Martin I picture a little 12-year old kid. Turns out he looks like Rylan :lol:
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P.S. I swear there's a famous b&w of Don Whillans heel hooking on some grit thing...
On Esso Extra on Stanage I think. Can't find a copy of it online.
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(https://i.ibb.co/Bc9Hwhd/1-E3-ECCAD-342-A-416-F-8-F14-1-D49-A586-C7-C6.jpg)
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Clearly a foot jam. Can this be Britain's first heel hook? (Arthur Dolphin, Great Western. Probably not).
(https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52479214379_e313c7342c_b.jpg)
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(https://i.ibb.co/Vxs1v3J/Screenshot-2022-11-05-at-18-13-16.png)
The earliest I can think of is John Syrett on the first ascent of Encore, a Mountain Magazine front cover in 1973.
(From Pol Syrett's biography (https://www.blurb.com/books/10797082-searching-for-my-brother-john-syrett-iconic-rock))
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(https://i.ibb.co/Vxs1v3J/Screenshot-2022-11-05-at-18-13-16.png)
The earliest I can think of is John Syrett on the first ascent of Encore, a Mountain Magazine front cover in 1973.
(From Pol Syrett's biography (https://www.blurb.com/books/10797082-searching-for-my-brother-john-syrett-iconic-rock))
Back to Action Directe, did Gullich's original sequence, straight up after the jump, rejoin the current line before the heel hook move?
In an interview in Mountain magazine Henry Barber said on seeing the picture of John Syrett that heel hooks had been done for some time in the Gunks.
Interestingly both the toe hook on Esso Extra and the heel hook on Encore make them harder than they need to be.
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BGFBB (but balanced out by rubbish protection and no leg loops)
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Probably different, maybe slightly harder, sequences??
Well yes :p I'm just curious what those sequences will have been
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Probably different, maybe slightly harder, sequences??
Well yes :p I'm just curious what those sequences will have been
YouTube is your friend in this instance.
Ondra didn't go out right to the good mono to clip, so no toe or heel hook was needed to come back left.
Dai and Iker used a toe hook, but different left foot positions.
I did not watch any more than that, as the route is well out of my pay grade!
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ay3mzFmhcGk
Adam Ondra with Tom Sobotka climbs Alles Frei on a project in Labsk dol, Czechia. Amazing video, of course.
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Nice. That upper headwall bit was great!
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https://youtu.be/Ay3mzFmhcGk?t=687
Sandstone climbing should have a bit of adventure, maybe it should be safe, but still stepping into the unknown and not knowing whether this climb is possible or not, is...is the essence of sandstone climbing that should remain for ever.
Nice reflection on onsight climbing there.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=88-kIPocyTo
Interesting discussion about what counts as an FA, plus some horrible ratting that'd be right at home at the tor.
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How is this even a discussion. He toproped it, that's not a FA....
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=88-kIPocyTo
Interesting discussion about what counts as an FA, plus some horrible ratting that'd be right at home at the tor.
Call me old fashioned, but top-roping (even self top-roping) does not a First Ascent make. :rtfm:
It's a bit like taking pre-clipping the first, or was it the second - or even the third bolt approach to it's logical conclusion. Except it's completely illogical...!
Route looks nails, mind, or at least it will be when someone climbs it :P
ps. sorry - late to the party. I see you're all on the sandstone now... :'(
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How is this even a discussion. He toproped it, that's not a FA....
This. That was a lot of lead attempts to watch (admittedly cool climbing footage) and a lot of waffle to basically say "it's still a toprope problem awaiting a first ascent".
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How is this even a discussion. He toproped it, that's not a FA....
This. That was a lot of lead attempts to watch (admittedly cool climbing footage) and a lot of waffle to basically say "it's still a toprope problem awaiting a first ascent".
Unless of course the route is a blank wall between two significant trad crack lines, pointlessly dangerous to trad climb, and bolting it would ruin the trad routes either side. Then toproping would be the logical style of ascent :)
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Pre-placed side-runners at a completely arbitrary height!
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How is this even a discussion. He toproped it, that's not a FA....
This. That was a lot of lead attempts to watch (admittedly cool climbing footage) and a lot of waffle to basically say "it's still a toprope problem awaiting a first ascent".
Unless of course the route is a blank wall between two significant trad crack lines, pointlessly dangerous to trad climb, and bolting it would ruin the trad routes either side. Then toproping would be the logical style of ascent :)
Obviously hypothetical, but if you could reach the bolts from the trad route, you could therefore reach the cracks from the blank wall, meaning it was either a shit eliminate or possible to protect by moving into the cracks periodically. If you can't reach the bolts from the trad routes, then they don't interfere, so it could be bolted.
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How is this even a discussion. He toproped it, that's not a FA....
This. That was a lot of lead attempts to watch (admittedly cool climbing footage) and a lot of waffle to basically say "it's still a toprope problem awaiting a first ascent".
Given he puts his shoes on hanging on the rope. That alone should getting the first ascent in my book.
Shit I struggle to get mine on sat in a chair.
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One of those where if he looks forward 2 years from now, after 2 more climbing seasons will have passed - i.e. where you aren't time pressured into claiming something just in time before the onset of a 6-month long Canadian winter - and imagines reflecting back, he'd probably realise he's being stupid to claim this is a legit FA.
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90% of the comments on youtube are pretty depressing. Anyone who speaks out and (rightly) calls BS is getting flamed.
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Given he puts his shoes on hanging on the rope. That alone should getting the first ascent in my book.
Shit I struggle to get mine on sat in a chair.
It was a pretty cool scene / backdrop on his shunt practise go, yeah.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6F2DLzmwFo
Teplice in all its glory. Of the three, I did the first, luckily never spotted the second and got horribly spanked by the last one.
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Crokey! That place strikes terror into my heart. I went once for a few days, just looking. So incredible.
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Ah thanks for that link JWI, really loved that :-)
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6F2DLzmwFo
Teplice in all its glory. Of the three, I did the first, luckily never spotted the second and got horribly spanked by the last one.
:o
Perhaps Cadarese is a better idea!
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The sandstone in that area looks so amazing but so so terrifying!!
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That overhanging unprotected jam crack at the top is my worst nightmare.
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Hahaha innit.
A style of climbing that (if youre not good at it) one saving grace is that it is very protectable - and you are jamming up it with just some shitty monkey fists and overhands to protect you as you quest away from a bolt for miles :'(
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The Terror!
Sean's Number One!
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The Elbe sandstone area is so appealing to me but it only takes me a minute or so of any video to remember that I have absolutely nothing like the head for the climbing there. By the end I feel like Ive reached a new level of appreciation of cams and nuts.
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Not been through all 152 pages of the thread for this, so apologies if it's in there somewhere...
Does anyone have a copy of consumed I could download?
Even happy to puchase a DVD - happy to pay for either option...
such a brilliant psyche film but due to it's disappearance from youtube it's disappeared from my life!
cheers in advance
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C6F2DLzmwFo
Teplice in all its glory. Of the three, I did the first, luckily never spotted the second and got horribly spanked by the last one.
Brilliant all round!
How hard is the first one in His Royal Majesty's Great Brexitish trad grading system?
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The Elbe sandstone area is so appealing to me but it only takes me a minute or so of any video to remember that I have absolutely nothing like the head for the climbing there. By the end I feel like Ive reached a new level of appreciation of cams and nuts.
Have you climbed on the towers surrounding Moab? I reckon if you looked at the right things (at the wider end of wrong) you could get a lite version of the experience.
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How hard is the first one in His Royal Majesty's Great Brexitish trad grading system?
The first felt like it would be 6+ in Bohusln? Like Afterburner on Hallinden maybe? If that helps?
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I've done Afterburner - https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=178762 - so I guess that does help :2thumbsup:. E2 5b/c -ish? I was guessing E2 5b+ looking at the video, it looks a tiny bit Grond-ish.
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How hard is the first one in His Royal Majesty's Great Brexitish trad grading system?
The first felt like it would be 6+ in Bohusln? Like Afterburner on Hallinden maybe? If that helps?
Which is about 5.10c. Steep but solid jams, assuming your hands fit. As you say, E2 5b/c on grit if you could plug in a cam at will. E4-ish with a good (?) sling 7m below you?
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Which is about 5.10c. Steep but solid jams, assuming your hands fit. As you say, E2 5b/c on grit if you could plug in a cam at will. E4-ish with a good (?) sling 7m below you?
Very good sling around a big feature. Falls would lead to broken bones but terminal falls unlikely. Would be an absolute nightmare to downclimb due to steepness, so kudos to FA.
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:agree:
That sort of climbing fills me with confidence - APART from the high unlikeliness of being able to retreat if confidence were to unexpectedly but understandably fail.
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How hard is the first one in His Royal Majesty's Great Brexitish trad grading system?
The first felt like it would be 6+ in Bohusln? Like Afterburner on Hallinden maybe? If that helps?
Which is about 5.10c. Steep but solid jams, assuming your hands fit. As you say, E2 5b/c on grit if you could plug in a cam at will. E4-ish with a good (?) sling 7m below you?
That looks steep and long for E2 which these days is Charming crack or Undercut crack and the like. It looks bit more like Neb direct longer but not as steep.
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How hard is the first one in His Royal Majesty's Great Brexitish trad grading system?
The first felt like it would be 6+ in Bohusln? Like Afterburner on Hallinden maybe? If that helps?
Which is about 5.10c. Steep but solid jams, assuming your hands fit. As you say, E2 5b/c on grit if you could plug in a cam at will. E4-ish with a good (?) sling 7m below you?
That looks steep and long for E2 which these days is Charming crack or Undercut crack and the like. It looks bit more like Neb direct longer but not as steep.
Just watched this again and its not as steep as I remembered from the first watching. I thought it was about 30 degrees overhanging. However its not that steep, it is like a long version of The Grond. Quite something with no gear.
What are the steepest hand cracks in the UK I was struggling to think of any that are not roofs or are just slightly overhanging.
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Just watched Robbie Phillips film about doing The Long Hope route earlier this year.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-5O_iysYwj0
I wasn't sure what to expect, but I thought it was a brilliant film, and a big step up from the other Robbie films I've watched. Really well edited and really atmospheric.
And as for Alex Moore, who claimed he was a boulderer before this trip... :o well, his ability to cope with perhaps the most extreme baptism of fire in British trad climbing just blew me away!
It's 50 minutes long, so grab a beer and enjoy...
Neil
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Oooh nice. I saw that this premiered this eve and missed the start.
Have really enjoyed some of Robbie's films, others maybe slightly miss the mark for me. Interested to see which side this sits for me but its a good sign if you like it Neil, as at heart you are the kind of climber I aspire to be like :wub:
Its obviously a rediculous bit of crag and being a longer film is likely gonna be less clickbait-ey and hopefully just some nice long shots of the climbing.
Will get a suitably tasty beer loaded up and enjoy it later in the week.
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Really enjoyed this. Good mix of irreverence and hard climbing!
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https://youtu.be/td__pF4Ff2o
https://youtu.be/XeMYbWxg-Hw
Flatanger videos from Jakob and Adam. More climbing in Jakob's, but a useful graphic in Adam's (just after 4 minute mark) to show where all these crazy routes actual go in the cave.
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they are not much into clipping draws, are they?
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they are not much into clipping draws, are they?
Jakob was definitely TRYING to clip that one :o
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Not watched an Ondra vid for a while, so inspiring.
Struck by how similar the less steep rock on the left of the cave looks to Lewisian gneiss.
Odd that he makes out Norway to be a climbing backwater (maybe from a hard sport POV)... It's fricking covered in rock!
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Yeah, I thought that too about Lewisian Gneiss. Looks like much of the Pabbay/Mingulay stuff. Beautiful.
Can a geologist tell us what the rock at Flatanger actually is?
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Yeah, I thought that too about Lewisian Gneiss. Looks like much of the Pabbay/Mingulay stuff. Beautiful.
Can a geologist tell us what the rock at Flatanger actually is?
I am not a geologist, but I can google Norwegian and found this
From https://geo.ngu.no/api/faktaark/geologiskarv/visGeologiskArvOmr.php?p_objid=38341&lang=nor
"Bergartene i helleren er vesentlig migmatittgneis med linser og lag av svart amfibolitt"
"The rock in the Hanshelleren cave is mostly migmatite gneiss with lenses and layers of black amphibolite"
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"The rock in the Hanshelleren cave is mostly migmatite gneiss with lenses and layers of black amphibolite"
I hope Ondra et al are wearing dust masks when bolting, because Amphibolite may (but may not) contain Amphibole asbestos. If it was the type of Amphibolite containing Amphibole then breathing the dust* created while bolting would be bad news for long term lung health.
* breathing any dust when drilling is obvs not good for lungs, but drilling asbestos fibres much worse.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZvPiB8AzWkE good footage, good commentary.
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Yeah, I thought that too about Lewisian Gneiss.
I though that too, very reminiscent of some of the Lewis Crags and Sheigra, only steeper and less featured.
They mention easier routes to the left, but what of the row of crags behind it! (and that triangular boulder..)
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Yeah, I thought that too about Lewisian Gneiss.
I though that too, very reminiscent of some of the Lewis Crags and Sheigra, only steeper and less featured.
They mention easier routes to the left, but what of the row of crags behind it! (and that triangular boulder..)
There are plenty of other crags around the cave. Some with bolted routes on them. Some twenty years ago I did a two-three pitch trad route on one of the crags behind the cave. I think that crag might be permanently banned now though.
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Banned because of? Birds?
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Is there a guidebook that covers that area JWI? As in, not just the cave but other nearby crags?
It looks like such a beautiful area, I'd love to visit one day.
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Some of my wife's colleagues in Bergen offered us use of their cabins in the summer, and i though it would be cool to go see the cave, then had a look at the 13 hour drive on google maps, and was reminded that Norway is huge.
I think he means backwater compared to the amount of accessible climbing in "Southern Europe". You could travel from Ceuse to Northern Spain in less time.
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We went there on our honeymoon in the van as part of a Norway tour. It really is a beautiful area. I can confirm that the climbing on the wall to the left of the main cave is indeed brilliant, and also a lot like the best of pabbay.
I did a fair bit of running too, and there is an awful lot of rock that would be prime for ground up trad, ranging from very easy to hard. The cliffs just behind the campsite were pretty undeveloped when we were there (2016).
We may have just got lucky, but I think the area tend to get better weather than the south west of Norway.
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Maybe you were lucky, friends went to Lofoten for 2 weeks and had 13 days of rain.
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Nice vid of Migel Navarro in Albarracn...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=195t4xbtnjE
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Is there a guidebook that covers that area JWI? As in, not just the cave but other nearby crags?
It looks like such a beautiful area, I'd love to visit one day.
Don't know. I used the old-old Trndelag guidebook from the late 90s. Of course, at the time it was pretty new.
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Alex Honnold soloed the Phoenix back in 2011 but, apparently, the footage was only released for the first time yesterday. It's quite a tense watch.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WeUoLWiVH8U
Anyone here done it? I think Duncan has at least belayed on it.
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wa wa wee wa
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Alex Honnold soloed the Phoenix back in 2011 but, apparently, the footage was only released for the first time yesterday. It's quite a tense watch.
Brilliant little clip! I think at least parts of it was released before, because I have definitely seen the top out at least.
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Alex Honnold soloed the Phoenix back in 2011 but, apparently, the footage was only released for the first time yesterday. It's quite a tense watch.
Brilliant little clip! I think at least parts of it was released before, because I have definitely seen the top out at least.
Yeah it's been used in the 'Alone on the wall' segment that did the rounds when he did Half Dome.
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Alex Honnold soloed the Phoenix back in 2011 but, apparently, the footage was only released for the first time yesterday. It's quite a tense watch.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WeUoLWiVH8U
Anyone here done it? I think Duncan has at least belayed on it.
Bit of a pointless annoyance, but here goes...
When the film/video is emphasises filming the solo, and it's not just about the climb, having reconstructed shots interspersed with the shaky "live" shots is a bit off-putting. For example, the close in shots of the "thin tips layback", and the crux too, are obviously filmed at another time, since we know there isn't a camera person close to that section. But aren't we meant to be watching from the point of view of a scared cameraman? That seems to be the focus of the film. So it usually jars with me when rerecorded shots get thrown in: does this mean he went and soloed it again, making the feat slightly less crazy if he can lap it? Or were those shots on a hidden rope, making that a bit contrived?
Maybe I'm concentrating too hard and just need to roll with it, but it happens with lots of films - it's all about the one clean ascent/one dangerous solo, but suddenly here's an angle that clearly shows to anyone with any spatial awareness that it's been stitched together from multiple attempts.
Anyway, proper pointless rant, just a bit bored. As you were...
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Interesting take on it, I can see where you are coming from but I also enjoy seeing more clearly and closely what he is talking about when describing a section or just watching what he is putting his feet on just gives it way more context than some shaky footage from a way above.
I felt very uncomfortable watching that as a whole - he definitely didnt look cruisy in that top crack!! :sick:
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Yeah I definitely enjoy seeing the holds on a bit more detail, so I know I'd probably be slightly frustrated if it was entirely in fitting with what I outlined previously! Can't win.
Do I have to live quite so relentlessly in the real world?
Agreed about the top bit - he seemed like there was a time limit on his endurance, as opposed to the usual never ending stamina. And with a slightly slopey final pull. Gripping. Fuck being a cameraman for that! :no:
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Jesus. That was harrowing to watch. I mean just imagine setting off up the initial corner, on your own, immediately high enough so that a fall will kill you. No thanks.
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Yeah that was pretty scary :o Good footage tho, I see ed's point about the cuts to additional footage although they were spliced in okay, TBH the most striking bit was the final footage. Interesting to hear Alex's self-criticism, seems like a good thing that he wanted more smoothness and control on it.
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Interesting to hear Alex's self-criticism, seems like a good thing that he wanted more smoothness and control on it.
He achieved it too, it seems. This was a while ago, and he has appeared to have much more control in recent films. We obviously don't see everything, but I'd like to think he's found that smoothness he was looking for.
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https://www.thebmc.co.uk/the-flail-in-the-dale
Good fun write up from Niall and film by Ben Pritchard.
Hopefully it gets you lot psyched for some sport next year when it starts to dry up!
https://youtu.be/OTAXYSxlaMA
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Aq-uKKtM_s
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Good film of an incredible line and bit of climbing. Cheers for posting it!
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Matilda being an absolute weapon on the vert:
https://www.over-caffeinated_sugary_drink_company.com/int-en/episodes/reel-rock-s8-e1
replace as needed
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JWI are you cool enough to use terms like "absolute weapon" ?? :-\ Next you'll be describing your latest 8b send as "well turbo" ;D
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Is there any point in still having the over-caffeinated sugary drink company auto replace? It was Habrichs idea IIRC but do any of the current mods want it to stay?
All the other auto replaces I know about are to hide the names of banned crags and to stop people posting racial slurs. This one just makes it impossible to link to archived Reel Rock videos. We can freely post about Lucozade, Monster Energy & Carabao so I cant see the point of singling out the one fizzy pop brand that we might actually need to mention.
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JWI are you cool enough to use terms like "absolute weapon" ??
I can use the phrase when it is true and not an hyperbole; in that case coolness is superfluous to requirements
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Not saying you aren't cool in general, whatever that concept means these days.
Also :agree: with cheque. That term replacement is outdated and inconvenient.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Aq-uKKtM_s
JFC all of those endless cuts :sick:. Borderline unwatchable early on, and an abuse of good footage overall.
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Blimey she made that look easy. What the hell was sharma punting around for all those years ago.
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Haha I thought that.
Wondered if it was a staged re-climb with rests? She seems to feign a celebration when she clips the chains?
Certainly climbs it with a lot more style than sharma cutting loose and power screaming all over the shop!
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Strong heel game. Great climbing, thanks for posting
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Certainly climbs it with a lot more style than sharma cutting loose and power screaming all over the shop!
Impossible!
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Wondered if it was a staged re-climb with rests? She seems to feign a celebration when she clips the chains?
If that contained any actual send footage I'd be much surprised
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Yeah, I hate that; give me a fixed camera raw edit complete with the actual moment of celebration anyday.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nW36nE-EIwQ
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nW36nE-EIwQ
Clipping into the sling for the rope shenanigans was a bit scary! Far more slack than I'd ever like as a genuine backup. Not sure it'd be much better than nothing, since it could well break on the shock when you fall on it.
Quite the route though. Wonder what the longest route ever climbed in a single no-rest push is (discounting soloed multipitches). 130m has got to be a fair contender.
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I would not be too worried about shock loading a slack dynema sling with a soft body.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nr3YBDnOI8Q
You only need to watch 11.35 to 11.55, the rest is just bla bla bla
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I enjoyed this, film about some chossy trad climbing in the Blue Mountains
People who go climbing don't always want that experience that you get on the dogface, I think you need to have some need for a deep form of therapy to go there, but when you do you have a rich experience of terror
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nwjz-QiUXuo
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Thats really good, thanks for the link. Good to see Macca (the bearded guy belaying) is still going, he was recovering from a broken leg from memory when I came across him there in 2017!
Some of the most aesthetically pleasing choss I've ever climbed on in the Blueys; this was a highlight...
https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/australia/blue-mountains/the-lost-pillar/route/15455941
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this was a highlight...
https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/australia/blue-mountains/the-lost-pillar/route/15455941
:o that looks ridiculous
Have an escape plan if it all goes wrong and the tower falls down.
:lol:
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That's great.
I looked at dogface exactly 30 years ago on a non-climbing trip. Flippin' impressive, the bright yellow a total contrast to the surrounding cliffs. It looked like the sandstone had barely started to consolidate since the 1931 rockfall. The Bluies are so beautiful, I'd love to go back though I'm not sure I ever will.
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Agree, stunning spot. A Sheffield mate and (Andy Higginson, who I believe is no longer with us) hired a banger and blasted out there with the intention of doing The Eternity at Mount Piddington, mainly because we had a copied page from a guidebook to that crag and it looked like a great route
https://www.thecrag.com/en/climbing/australia/blue-mountains/mount-piddington/route/15381793
Drive took way longer than we estimated, got very lost, eventually found it and amazed it was midweek and there was someone on it. Having an epic. They fucked around on it for an eternity resting on gear, lowering, aiding, the works. Eventually it was getting late, so I think we did Joslab to the left, and the still weren't off, so we pissed off back to Sydney. Doubt I'll ever go back either
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https://youtu.be/S_SmgaASssw
Thought this was great
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Nice film of Mari's new route:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LVKBc9v18yY&t=48s
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https://youtu.be/S_SmgaASssw
Thought this was great
I liked this a lot too. Johnny Dawes is incredibly good at that style.
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Enjoyed that too, Pedriza looks so good, but i think in reality I would have no skin by the end of day 1, and bleed out by lunchtime on day 2.
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I liked this a lot too. Johnny Dawes is incredibly good at that style.
Agreed, really good. And Dawes is very impressive , looks like a like a typical late middle aged non climber and then floats up these routes that some pretty good climbers don't make look easy at all.
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And in what have to be one of if not the oldest pair of shoes still available! Incredible him climbing 8b+ 2nd go!
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Talo Martns Vimeo channel
https://vimeo.com/clownclimbing
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Don't think anyone's linked this on a different thread yet? Nice vibe as usual and a really great looking bit of climbing in great light.
https://youtu.be/ZJI5dyCGt1Y
Anyone know if Jim proffered a font grade on this? Guessing somewhere between 7B+ and 8A?
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It weighs in at about E8 7a or highball 7C+/8A (https://www.instagram.com/p/CjJB5X8jbgx/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=)
Shame no one asked him to move the ab rope out of the way.
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Mary Eden climbs Belly Full Of Bad Berries not inverted:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AJdRfTc1HD4
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Don't think anyone's linked this on a different thread yet? Nice vibe as usual and a really great looking bit of climbing in great light.
https://youtu.be/ZJI5dyCGt1Y
Anyone know if Jim proffered a font grade on this? Guessing somewhere between 7B+ and 8A?
That's great, nice calm vibes, good footage, a wild climb, and I genuinely laughed at Ned appearing to coax him over the top.
So....why hasn't the arete gone yet??
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https://youtu.be/S_SmgaASssw
Thought this was great
Great film.
Dawes still climbing 8b+ slabs. That's really good going isn't it.
Pearson really is a very good rock climber isn't he.
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Touching film about different generations of the Herbert family climbing the Muir Wall. TM Herbert had a reputation as court jester in 60s Yosemite but, as this film outlines, he had the climbing chops too.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cP8GMVoEpsA&t=1s
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Quality may be abit of a stretch but interesting to see Nico Pelorson and Lucine Martinez on the moves on Le Bombe Bleu project https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dH9SI8IdRpI
I wonder whether Megos has put any time in to it. Looks just his bag.
Darth grader reckons 9b/+ kinda range.
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Looking at that, its only a matter of time. Cant help but wonder if Antoine could have done it if he hadnt given up.
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I would imagine the sheer annoyance of trying it is the main barrier. Such a low % move and having to do that intro section every time to the ledge. Wonder if theres any temptation to call that section to the ledge P1 and just try the rest of the route from there to reduce faff. the grade would be the same I'd imagine but obviously less pure.
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I think it is only 7a or something to the ledge. I doubt this would be much of an issue.
Weird jumpcuts, but it looks like Nico does the hard move at the start at 3:40? With climbing shoes, then the rest of the hard moves without shoes?
Pretty harsh to classify Lucien as a solid* 8B climber.
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* My best guess: hability > habile > skilful ≈ solid
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Quality 9A and 8B boulderers repeatedly falling off 8A+ mono jumps videos!
The full thing does look very cool though. Action Direct for this century!
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That ledge ruins the pitch. Start the route from there with the first bit described as an approach scramble. To do otherwise is the equivalent of starting every route at Malham up Rodney's Route.
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That ledge ruins the pitch. Start the route from there with the first bit described as an approach scramble. To do otherwise is the equivalent of starting every route at Malham up Rodney's Route.
Yep. Stick three bolts in there and get a fixed rope in place to jug up.
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Weird jumpcuts, but it looks like Nico does the hard move at the start at 3:40? With climbing shoes, then the rest of the hard moves without shoes?
Makes you wonder if there's room in the market for an ultra soft shoe with split toes (not 5 finger but maybe lobster style with big toe separate). Seems like a semi-logical progression from things like Mantra and Furia.
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Weird jumpcuts, but it looks like Nico does the hard move at the start at 3:40? With climbing shoes, then the rest of the hard moves without shoes?
Makes you wonder if there's room in the market for an ultra soft shoe with split toes (not 5 finger but maybe lobster style with big toe separate). Seems like a semi-logical progression from things like Mantra and Furia.
Could be called Ninja. Oh wait...
(https://purepng.com/public/uploads/large/purepng.com-ninjashinobininjacovert-agentassassinationguerrilla-warfaresamurai-1421526960562hlbcn.png)
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Weird jumpcuts, but it looks like Nico does the hard move at the start at 3:40? With climbing shoes, then the rest of the hard moves without shoes?
Makes you wonder if there's room in the market for an ultra soft shoe with split toes (not 5 finger but maybe lobster style with big toe separate). Seems like a semi-logical progression from things like Mantra and Furia.
Could be called Ninja. Oh wait...
Ooh disappointing duncan, ninjas didn't actually wear the split shoes :bounce:
or rather they didn't exclusively wear them, it's just a japanese worker/daily thing
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https://xcelwetsuits.co.uk/product/3mm-infiniti-split-toe-wetsuit-boots/
available in 3, 5 & 7 mm stealth neoprene, depending on pockets size
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Steve Mc is a man of many superlative and he's true to form in this...but I think he's on the money with this one, looks fucking rad.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wW5WMNsXiwk
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Sometimes I forget how beautiful Verdon is, then I remember
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nlTJn_jLka4
Unsurprisingly, Jakob Schubert has no issues with the moves of DNA. What a mensch
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My word he makes short work of figuring that out doesn't he.
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That looks unbelievable. Shame the crux looks pretty morpho, wonder if Ondra has Schubert's span? Megos def doesn't.
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Ondra is a lot taller than Schubert
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Shows what I know! No excuses then
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https://youtu.be/IDElVaVRJco
Chris Alstrin is uploading a steady back catalogue of videos to YouTube, including the full length wideboyz film. I'm sure we've all seen it, but now it's available for free
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How much of that tall is neck though? Doesn't mean he has a bigger span.
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Sometimes I forget how beautiful Verdon is, then I remember
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nlTJn_jLka4
Unsurprisingly, Jakob Schubert has no issues with the moves of DNA. What a mensch
What an amazing looking crag, so cool that one of the hardest routes in the world is on such quintessential limestone tufa.
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https://youtu.be/exJdGRgaWk4
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Le playboy rde sans complexe in Loumarin. (Loumarin look pretty busy for a banned crag ...)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_r7W5DT2dlg
Another example that you can train for anything in Fontainebleau!
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Enjoyed this - don't watch the last 7 minutes if you want to retain your onsight
attempt on Empath (9a+ trad) (https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2022/06/connor_herson_climbs_empath_9a+_on_trad_gear-73074)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R5NPJcKznpw
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Good stuff. Is it just me or has this gone a bit unnoticed as one of the harder trad routes in the world?
When he says using jams makes it a bit easier I wonder if he means a bit easier for 9a+ or a bit easier and now its 9a :-\
Also kind of strange that Carlo thought it would go on gear but bolted it anyway especially as its not even a future generation project
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I am going to do a bit of backseat gradning here and say that it did not really look like 9a+ to me. Short 9a+ with decent rests have cruxes at around 8B with other hard parts around them. Or does he just completely piss on 8B even after having done hard climbing before?
[edit]Great video![/edit]
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IIRC both Connor and Pringle said 8c+. Or maybe Pringle said 8c+ and Connor implied he thought Pringle was right. Either way I remember it sounding like 8c+ if you knew how to climb cracks..
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:smartass: good knowledge barrows!!
That makes sense as to why its gone under the radar - its one of the harder but a notch off the hardest trad routes/ascents as its not actually a trad route.
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Bronwyn being badass:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7s4e4mbYM00
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Looks like a nice route!
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ljPB3gj4nvI
It starts at 43 s and ends at the 12 min mark. Subs in English as well.
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I really enjoyed this no-frills slow burner about a middle aged man and his 200 sessions siege
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ShalZiRb-7o
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I also thought this was fantastic.
Such passion yet he understands that it comes at a cost.
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I really enjoyed this no-frills slow burner about a middle aged man and his 200 sessions siege
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ShalZiRb-7o
Really enjoyed this. Was then saddened to learn that Duncan died this Easter. Seems like a top bloke.
https://www.brisbanetimes.com.au/national/queensland/an-incredible-human-brisbane-principal-remembered-after-sudden-passing-20230415-p5d0q0.html
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Seb on Suprme Jumbo Love, lovely footage on the ascent.
https://youtu.be/snHVl7AX1mw
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Yup that was good! Nice music / silence too.
PE 9a into PE/stamina 9b with no rest seems a bit stout for 9b+ to me!
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Amazing! When people say that they gain endurance quickly, I imagine that they get to this level of endurance in a few weeks
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That was masterful. I don't think I've ever seen a film that demonstrates the unbelievable levels of athleticism that the top climbers are at.
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🌈
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rKzW7PsgWSs
🤯
Also, a drinking game. Take a sip every time Edu says no?
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https://youtu.be/zmgmLyVeX5E
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Just finished watching Robbie Phillips new film, truly memorable one I think. Amazing climbing and fantastic achievement in capturing it on film https://youtu.be/GAj5VTmuNBg
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Just finished watching Robbie Phillips new film, truly memorable one I think. Amazing climbing and fantastic achievement in capturing it on film https://youtu.be/GAj5VTmuNBg
Liked that a lot!
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Very nice.
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Flippin awesome!
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This is excellent. Makes me want to book a trip there...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YOCwtzqZXWU
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Really enjoyed the Alasha vid. There was another recent video from Prana showing Chris and friends kayaking around the coastline and some of the unclimbed faces were unbelievable. Been removed from their YouTube channel for some reason but Ill post it if I see it released again.
Ive got a day booked with Rock and Water (the boat dude from the vid) in September. Psyched!
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what a mench
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Really enjoyed the Alasha vid. There was another recent video from Prana showing Chris and friends kayaking around the coastline and some of the unclimbed faces were unbelievable. Been removed from their YouTube channel for some reason but Ill post it if I see it released again.
Ive got a day booked with Rock and Water (the boat dude from the vid) in September. Psyched!
How much does he charge as we are going in September.
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70 for the day each - needs minimum 4 people to go ahead but they'll form the group from randoms if you don't have enough people. 380 for a private tour.
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At the other end of the climbing without a rope spectrum:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cUkWIT-eWXI
Hmmmm.
Meurerturm does look like an absolute dream route tho.
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Yikes!!!!!
Watching film of soloing now seems to make me uncomfortable in a way it never used to.
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Scheisse, that was close.
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Part 2 of Schubert et. al. on Mallorca
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hirWmnwVDrQ
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Chalk bag magically appears mid-lunge on the crux dyno on the send :ninja:
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EbkjUdy7DBQ
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Live stream of Jakob attempting project big in Flatanger. Looks like he's about to pull on.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wsf9I9-E0Vs
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Live stream of Jakob attempting project big in Flatanger. Looks like he's about to pull on.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wsf9I9-E0Vs
What a time to be alive! Both kind of awesome and kind of weird. Not sure what to make of it. Nevertheless he looks like is getting pretty close.
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He just got super close! Stuck the crux jump and did a couple more moves, ~one more hard move to go apparently.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X8fJ3FBmUHQ
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Not ground breaking film making, but some amazing looking routes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dnSnd-xGtNI
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For me, that was one of the best things Ive watched climbing wise for so long!!
Very rare that I am totally glued to the screen, hands sweating, in total disbelief of what Im seeing!
Adrspach looks equal parts amazing, equal parts terrifying!
Hats off to those who can climb well there.
Amazing what they were doing in the 60s we think we were the forerunners of hard free climbing but they were basically climbing E5/6 barefoot!!
Incredible stuff. Ondras channel does it again. Enjoyed the fact that Ondra wore a shirt, very trad.
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In Ondra's IG "English Subtitles available in the video settings" - for Will Bosi's "broad" Scottish presumably.
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For me, that was one of the best things Ive watched climbing wise for so long!!
Agreed, absolutely incredible. Can't believe it didn't get trailed more in advance - the wideboyz stuff took months and months, this just popped up out of the blue. Such high production value too, we really are lucky to get these films for free.
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Enjoyed that. Ondra is such a ridiculous all-rounder. He even excels on weird bold thrutchy leads. In particular the last route was amazing, such a cool feature and it looks totally desperate to climb. Can't believe what they were doing back in the day!
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Reading this morning, my post yesterday looks semi-dismissive, which it wasn't meant to be. I just meant that the film, which is beautifully shot, doesn't do anything flashy.
Also reflecting further, I think I thought, oh just another Ondra does something slightly quirky with his celebrity climbing mates (when we all just want him to get with climbing as hard as possible), but more and more it looks like a deliberate attempt to say "look, we have this incredible history." He knows he has huge following, many of whom know nothing or little about that history. I think he wants the history known, loved, and respected and that's got to be admired (including the willingness to show all three of them having to really try on those routes).
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That was great! The drone shots showed well how stunningly beautiful the area is as well. I have such fond memories of Adr, but it is too bold for my current lifestyle. A modern style guidebook to the area wouldn't go amiss, or failing that, one that has the routes written up in a language I can read.
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Reading this morning, my post yesterday looks semi-dismissive, which it wasn't meant to be. I just meant that the film, which is beautifully shot, doesn't do anything flashy.
Also reflecting further, I think I thought, oh just another Ondra does something slightly quirky with his celebrity climbing mates (when we all just want him to get with climbing as hard as possible), but more and more it looks like a deliberate attempt to say "look, we have this incredible history." He knows he has huge following, many of whom know nothing or little about that history. I think he wants the history known, loved, and respected and that's got to be admired (including the willingness to show all three of them having to really try on those routes).
Totally. I only worked out by the end of the film that "the lords of trad" referred to the old boys he interviewed.
Were the bolts placed on lead ? They must have been on the 1st ascents of a particular pillar. I seem to remember an older film talking about the placing of these Czech bolts, aren't they like a foot long?
Very good stuff
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Brill vid. Ondra is just great. He absolutely loves to get on it, he loves the history and the scene, his enthusiasm is infectious. It's great the arguably the best climber in the world is one of the best characters in climbing too. Shirt and a pint man too, what a guy
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That was great, I love all these films from Czech when they are made by the locals. I must climb here before I get really old. Mind you I've been saying that since the mid-80s when I still had go-for-it to lead some of these routes. Anyone have any idea on how you get information on where to start? I'm guessing there isn't a RockFax!
Were the bolts placed on lead ? They must have been on the 1st ascents of a particular pillar. I seem to remember an older film talking about the placing of these Czech bolts, aren't they like a foot long?
You might mean this video, I think it's been been posted before. It's a great insight into the first ascent process: starting from the ground, climb, hand-drill a small bolt on lead, hang off this and drill a big ring-bolt, lower off and repeat til you get to the top...or not. Keep that in mind when Pete Whittaker is stretching to clip the ring on the last pitch of the 6c+ looking at close to a factor two fall.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JZvhIlzV8Ec&list=LL&index=137&t=1200s
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I guess its out of vogue because that style of climbing isnt easily replicated in a climbing wall. Plus its really frickin terrifying. Both times Ive been to Czech one of our group has struggled with the boldness. If you can get someone to go then go!
Yet again Ondra shows his utter class. What a master.
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I guess its out of vogue because that style of climbing isnt easily replicated in a climbing wall. Plus its really frickin terrifying. Both times Ive been to Czech one of our group has struggled with the boldness.
I'm not sure on your first point but your second is correct. Life changing injuries if you stuff up a F6b+ on sandy rock (without chalk) isn't everyone's cup of Earl Grey.
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Also reflecting further, I think I thought, oh just another Ondra does something slightly quirky with his celebrity climbing mates (when we all just want him to get with climbing as hard as possible), but more and more it looks like a deliberate attempt to say "look, we have this incredible history." He knows he has huge following, many of whom know nothing or little about that history. I think he wants the history known, loved, and respected and that's got to be admired (including the willingness to show all three of them having to really try on those routes).
This is why I love Ondra so much. It gives me so much comfort to know that the best climber in the world is a soul climber.
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Anyone have any idea on how you get information on where to start? I'm guessing there isn't a RockFax!
The guidebook for Teplice, a few km from Adr, has some linedrawings. The guidebook for Ard was a mess though. Text only and in Czech - the German guide (text only as well) was long out of print. Mind you, this info is 12 years old...
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That was great, I love all these films from Czech when they are made by the locals. I must climb here before I get really old. Mind you I've been saying that since the mid-80s when I still had go-for-it to lead some of these routes. Anyone have any idea on how you get information on where to start? I'm guessing there isn't a RockFax!
You might mean this video, I think it's been been posted before. It's a great insight into the first ascent process: starting from the ground, climb, hand-drill a small bolt on lead, hang off this and drill a big ring-bolt, lower off and repeat til you get to the top...or not. Keep that in mind when Pete Whittaker is stretching to clip the ring on the last pitch of the 6c+ looking at close to a factor two fall.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JZvhIlzV8Ec&list=LL&index=137&t=1200s
That was great! Really appreciated the labour and pure Quixotic adventure. A younger me would have already booked flights, or tried to replicate it in Twll Mawr...
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It's a great video. Can't help mind climbing some of those amazing aretes and other features with a line of decent bolts and a bit of chalk though.
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As brilliant as expected! That final groove thing :alien:
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Echoing the accolades of others. On a side note, thinking of setting up a beta stick van and selling their jumbo stick poles. May need to devise a gadget to join two together though.
Beautiful film.
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There's apparently a Wideboys film coming too according to his IG
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That was brilliant. Imagine watching a 9A boulderer falling of your route from 20 years ago.
The 6c one looks truly hard. Were they fully freed in the 60s barefoot etc, or did they use tension to get between the cracks?
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Fully freed as far as I can tell. I don't think the chap who was taking 20 metres falls would have been happy with a frigged ascent!
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I'm speculating that being used to never using chalk would make things easier, still looked utterly nails and weird though.
Did anyone notice at one point Pete was puffing hard, and there were clouds of dust / dirt being blown out the crack?
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That was brilliant. Imagine watching a 9A boulderer falling of your route from 20 years ago.
The 6c one looks truly hard. Were they fully freed in the 60s barefoot etc, or did they use tension to get between the cracks?
I thought that they initially rested on the bolts or in some cases belayed on each bolt.
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That was great! The drone shots showed well how stunningly beautiful the area is as well. I have such fond memories of Adr, but it is too bold for my current lifestyle. A modern style guidebook to the area wouldn't go amiss, or failing that, one that has the routes written up in a language I can read.
Panico have an "Elbsandstein Plaisir" select guide for the other side of the border. I assume anything with more than one ringbolt per 65 metres counts as "plaisir"
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Adr and Teplice is pretty far from the Elbe valley. Just on the polish border in fact. For the czech areas just across the border from Saxony there are comprehensive german language guidebooks.
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This was published in 2019. Looks good https://climb-europe.com/rockclimbingshop/labske-udoli-rock-climbing-guidebook.html
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Adr and Teplice is pretty far from the Elbe valley. Just on the polish border in fact. For the czech areas just across the border from Saxony there are comprehensive german language guidebooks.
Ah. I didn't realise they were a different area.
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This was published in 2019. Looks good https://climb-europe.com/rockclimbingshop/labske-udoli-rock-climbing-guidebook.html
Oh wow more extreme injury routes than sport climbs. Incredible given the strict ground up ethic. Awesome stuff
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I've climbed in the Labak region and thought it was great. There are quite a few routes with glue-in bolts which are much more like conventional sport routes and are just a little run out, I think you are also permitted to use chalk there but are encouraged to do so sparingly. There are still some routes which only have a couple of ring bolts which you can also protect with threads and knots. They allow climbing on cliffs rather than just on towers and the routes climb the faces a lot more.
I haven't visited any of the other Czech sandstone regions but I have climbed in the Elbsandstein which I think has a similar ethic to the other Czech areas. The guides give two grades for routes, one for climbing from the bottom to top and another for climbing between the bolts. I think someone told me that historically people used to belay at every bolt. There was also a photo in one of the guides of people standing three high on each others shoulders to reach the first bolt on a slab.
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After the war and before the fall of communism in Central Europe, the climbers were really poor. No one had a 60 metre rope to go ledge to ledge. I was told that very short ropes were pretty common, and pitches of 20 m quite standard (=about average ring distance on the old-school wide cracks in Adr).
For most of the very hardest routes from the 60s or earlier, you can assume that they were done using combined tactics. Standing on someone's shoulder was thought to be fair-means since the gear was not weighted. However, weighting gear was completely totally taboo on FAs. You can safely assume that the FA did not use a tension traverse to go between the cracks depicted in the movie.
My impressions from climbing there in 2012 can be found here http://steepground.blogspot.com/2016/03/czech-sandstone-meet-2012.html
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Enjoyed that blog!! Thanks jwi!! Do they still do the international meet?
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An absolutely fantastic video that (The Ondra Adrspach one) a long time since I enjoyed a climbing film so much.
As ever when I watch a Czech/ Saxon sandstone film Im mesmerised by the rock, the beauty of the location, the climbing, the history, then I remember that I barely have the head for normal climbing let alone the runouts and knot protection!
Amazing to see Bosi so out of his comfort zone, somehow ending up in the wrong crack and flailing about in that huge runnel chimney in his Hiangles ;D
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HSkWitgmqZU&ab_channel=TimWinterflood
Nice footage of an underfilmed route.
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Enjoyed this of a young US wad putting the effort in on some hard trad.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KkxlCWnoZs4
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Pretty cool, looks thin AF.
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Nice interview with Morus Sanderson (https://climbing-history.org/climber/1604/morus-sanderson) (underground welsh wad). Franco is a pretty good interviewer!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VIN6MQL0Iys
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wXV7WlYwoVo&ab_channel=BlackDiamondEquipment
Just the walk in looks a great day out. Paging jwi; any good routes for mere mortals to do?
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Just the walk in looks a great day out. Paging jwi; any good routes for mere mortals to do?
Depends what you mean by mortal? I have never been there and decided against going there with my better half, who don't climb 7c in a day unless it is vertical and techy.
AFAIK There are two short 8bs to the side and a 7b/c warm-up for the feeble. Both are supposed to be good. There is a classic 8c and 8c+ as well. Beware of climbers trying the super-classic 8c+ and are hard-selling the crag (to lure in belayers).
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aBG-8bFgopw
I enjoyed this, straight up footage of Chris Sharma doing his best Chris Sharma impression on an amazing looking route.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wXV7WlYwoVo&ab_channel=BlackDiamondEquipment
Just the walk in looks a great day out. Paging jwi; any good routes for mere mortals to do?
This even managed to get me psyched. How do people manage to take holds so precisely even when they're at their limit?
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He's not at his limit?
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He's not at his limit?
Fair point. I'm hoping he's at least a touch fatigued though!
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All the body tension in the world.l!
This is exactly how I have to climb as my finger/ upper body strength lags well behind my repoint grade.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jyj6_k_kJ-M
Barbara Zangerl's ascent of Meltdown.
If you'd asked me in 1981 what rock climbing would look like in the 21st century I'd have described something like this. Funny how it is now almost completely atypical of what constitutes modern hard climbing.
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It was a project of Ron Kauk's for a while, so in many ways it really is the embodiment of an 80s style route taken to the extreme.
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Babsi is a beast, is a little bit sad that she doesn't get the attention she deserves. I have the feeling that "famous" female climbers achivements are not close to Babsi's and others like Angela Eiter. Really strong climbers that push the boundaries.
On a side note: If you ask me about what rock climbing will look like in the 22nd century I'd say that everybody will dress like the guy that appears at the end of video. WTF is that!
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Guessing it's a Halloween thing.
What do you think the masking tape is covering at the top?
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Babsi is a beast, is a little bit sad that she doesn't get the attention she deserves. I have the feeling that "famous" female climbers achivements are not close to Babsi's and others like Angela Eiter. Really strong climbers that push the boundaries.
Interesting this is your view, from my climbing media bubble, Babsi is one of the most famous and well publicised female climbers. She seems to get a decent stream of YouTube stuff every year and there was the Trango film last year. Shed definitely be first to mind if I was asked about best female trad climbers.
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What do you think the masking tape is covering at the top?
Probably a sharp edge, it lies exactly where the rope hangs when top-roping or lowering. They can be like granite knives in Yosemite and covering them with duct tape is a quite common strategy.
Babsi is a beast, is a little bit sad that she doesn't get the attention she deserves. I have the feeling that "famous" female climbers achivements are not close to Babsi's and others like Angela Eiter. Really strong climbers that push the boundaries.
Also interested. I'm biased towards trad. climbing in general and El Cap. in particular which makes Barbara Zangerl currently one of the 2 or 3 very best female trad. climbers in the world from my perspective. I'm aware I have minority tastes and perhaps strong women boulderers and sport climbers get more attention? (although Babsi is not exactly shabby at either)
Or do you mean social media influence versus actual climbing achievement? :worms:
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Babsi is a beast, is a little bit sad that she doesn't get the attention she deserves.
If she would start to confront climbers she suspect having been not 100% truthful in their reports in public rather than in private, and with the same frankness, she would get tons of clicks. Tons.
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More, please.
:popcorn:
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Babsi is a beast, is a little bit sad that she doesn't get the attention she deserves.
If she would start to confront climbers she suspect having been not 100% truthful in their reports in public rather than in private, and with the same frankness, she would get tons of clicks. Tons.
Spit it out then you cretin !!!
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That's such cool footage - fighting every inch.
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Babsi is a beast, is a little bit sad that she doesn't get the attention she deserves.
If she would start to use more knotted ropes next to things like The Meltdown, she would get tons of clicks. Tons.
:-\
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Probably a sharp edge, it lies exactly where the rope hangs when top-roping or lowering. They can be like granite knives in Yosemite and covering them with duct tape is a quite common strategy.
Good knowledge, makes sense, cheers. I was wondering if it was a hold she covered up to maintain the hard sequence she had come up with ;)
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Babsi is a beast, is a little bit sad that she doesn't get the attention she deserves.
If she would start to confront climbers she suspect having been not 100% truthful in their reports in public rather than in private, and with the same frankness, she would get tons of clicks. Tons.
Spit it out then you cretin !!!
Me three, don't leave us hanging here jwi.
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More, please.
:popcorn:
Spit it out then you cretin !!!
Me three, don't leave us hanging here jwi.
proves my point: controversies are more interesting than small holds that are far apart!
Anyway, the "ascent" of that particular Nordwand route is widely in disrepute. As is the FFFA party.
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You just did it AGAIN, you scrote ::)
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If you'd asked me in 1981 what rock climbing would look like in the 21st century I'd have described something like this. Funny how it is now almost completely atypical of what constitutes modern hard climbing.
;D Good quote. The first half looks horrendous, the F8c equivalent of Curbar E2 :look:
Cool video but although it's XTRA- R A W, they still could have sped through the shakeouts.
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Anyway, the "ascent" of that particular Nordwand route is widely in disrepute. As is the FFFA party.
Dare I ask for details of these allegations? Is this the Eiger Nordwand?
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https://www.reddit.com/r/climbing/comments/43z44p/criticism_on_sasha_digiulians_and_dave_mcleods/
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It's interesting that the other day while researching Loic Zehani's "ascent" of Artaburu, I found several comments mentioning this "ascent" of Norwand, among other controversies. This happened a long time ago and I didn't know about it but I've heard about it twice in the last 10 days...
It gave the impression that among professional climbers (some of the comments I read came from professional climbers) there are still some open wounds. I guess for them it's the same as what we see from the outside when you open your eyes: it's pretty easy to spot the "clickbait" climber, but you have to add that they see how the others get the fame and the money. (what surprises me is that more people don't realise this).
I have to say that my original message wasn't about this controversy, she is well known to me and maybe I'm not right in saying that Babsi doesn't get the attention she deserves, as I don't have instagram or follow any social media, but, for example, on Youtube for every video I link to of Babsi there are 10 videos of female climbers who sell that they play to the limit when in fact they don't. If one of those female climbers (I refuse to name names) were to achieve a feat like Angela in Madame Ching I don't want to imagine what would happen.
I assume that is a thing that happens in every part of the society. So many people complaint that there no good models out there and the real issue is that they are following stupid people. Or maybe the stupid is me... Who cares?
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Regarding the Nordwand link above, this is all a long time ago. I read all about this at the time, 8 years ago plus the other teams who were climbing on the Eiger that season.
I don't see anything there that particularly bothers me. Sure, the style wasn't the best but don't climbers used fixed ropes and ab in from above all the time on El Cap? Patiencia was not actually claimed as an ascent, they did the easier Magic Mushroom instead. Maybe there were a bit liberal in their interpretation of the weather and conditions re Patiencia but they didn't say they climbed that route so no tick by their own admission.
Zooming out, Sasha and Carlo are both kickass climbers with impressive CV's over a long period of time. Maybe they didn't abide by the pure Eiger ethics and hammed it up a bit to TV shows but 8 years on, Sasha is now leading teams to multi-pitch mountain objectives e.g. most recently to climb Rayu 8c https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/sasha-digiulian-matilda-soderlund-brette-harrington-repeat-rayu-8c-picos-de-europa-multipitch.html (https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/sasha-digiulian-matilda-soderlund-brette-harrington-repeat-rayu-8c-picos-de-europa-multipitch.html)
Perhaps the crux pitch of Rayu is 8b+ rather than 8c as per later ascentionists' comments but still impressive stuff nonetheless.
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I liked this one a lot of Simon Lorenzi on Alphane:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9rDZAm60qzw
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Thanks for this, its actually already been posted in the Quality Bouldering Video's thread. Silly thread title - not even sure why chuffing means routes but that's what this thread is usually for!
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Thanks for this, its actually already been posted in the Quality Bouldering Video's thread. Silly thread title - not even sure why chuffing means routes but that's what this thread is usually for!
Yeah, whats the origin story of chuffing as a term?
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Thanks for this, its actually already been posted in the Quality Bouldering Video's thread. Silly thread title - not even sure why chuffing means routes but that's what this thread is usually for!
Yeah, whats the origin story of chuffing as a term?
I always figured it was onomatopoeia for the noises you make when you're on a route. I guess I'm about to find out I've been embarrassingly mistaken for a long time.
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Thanks for this, its actually already been posted in the Quality Bouldering Video's thread. Silly thread title - not even sure why chuffing means routes but that's what this thread is usually for!
My bad. I'm mainly a route climber so not used to look at the bouldering videos thread. Admittedly a bit silly to then visit a forum called ukbouldering. This one just triggered my interest being Belgian as well.
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I really enjoyed this but its probably not for everyone. Stefano Ghisolfis first attempts at Sleeping Lion.
https://youtu.be/yX5hkFSM5JU?si=ezedmX3-oqEntV3k
On a related note, what does Chris Sharma do for training? I dont recall ever seeing anything about that which in this day and age is pretty remarkable
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Ive definitely seen some videos in recent times of him training potentially with patxi?? Think once he became an entrepreneur and a dad etc he started to train more at his climbing walls.
Wonder how much he actually trained before? Wonder if he was a secret trainer or really didnt do anything?
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Sharma's carefully curated image is that he doesn't train, just climb when he feels like it, but mostly hangs out with his bros.
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Sharma's carefully curated image is that he doesn't train, just climb when he feels like it, but mostly hangs out with his bros.
That certainly was the case, but there is this:
https://youtu.be/V1P97VVt6_k?si=Afd17edhj6B3fwZk&t=477
And now he owns a lead climbing wall, obviously spending a lot of time lapping lead routes is where it's at...
https://youtu.be/jzCSnvFtW4E?si=IPl4GZlZTlTfdfK0
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Sharma's carefully curated image is that he doesn't train, just climb when he feels like it, but mostly hangs out with his Hollywood celebrity bros.
fixed. TBF Jason Momoa seems like a decent guy and appears to really like climbing.
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And now he owns a lead climbing wall, obviously spending a lot of time lapping lead routes is where it's at...
Surely these are now considered “wasted miles”?!
Cheers for the videos Duncan, these answer my question perfectly
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And now he owns a lead climbing wall, obviously spending a lot of time lapping lead routes is where it's at...
https://youtu.be/jzCSnvFtW4E?si=IPl4GZlZTlTfdfK0
Surely these are now considered wasted miles?!
Time watching Sharma videos are never "wasted miles"!
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https://www.over-caffeinated sugary drink company.com/gb-en/episodes/reel-rock-s9-e8
Such a legend - Sharma on the FA of Sleeping Lion
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Link to Reel Rock page avoiding the ř3d bll blocker! Looks to be another couple of new ones there too
https://tinyurl.com/2t84pdh5
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Oooh, 9 is up. You can access them all through RB TV app on Firestick too.
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the ř3d bll blocker
This is the third time Ive asked but can someone with the necessary powers remove this please? All its doing is stopping people from posting usable links to climbing videos and I believe the only person who was into censoring the name of the company is long gone.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Te3pZ1rBxFI
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Great account of psychological pressure. Thanks Remus.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fBuivUAWSE8
This is great
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This too. I still think a lot of the rock on this looks like choss but good footage. Interesting kneebar trousers as well.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sV0d9N9lArE
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Interesting kneebar trousers as well.
:D whatever makes you sleep well at night
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fBuivUAWSE8
This is great
Agreed, both the route and the fight were excellent.
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Very good. That set my shoulder recovery back by a few weeks just watching it.
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I really enjoyed this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-La3XrMv56s
For all you duncans / fans of endless vert crimping, here's 40m of endless vert crimping, on crusty rock, with rusty old carrot bolts, and a cheerful protagonist. It looks like an entire route made out of the headwall of Byzantium :wub:
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Holy sketchfest!
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Not watched yet, but would guess this'll fit in here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7q8bdbuulb0&ab_channel=TheNorthFace
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Indeed it does. A nicely intimate look at a very impressive first ascent of a very fierce route indeed!
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Not sure if its been posted elsewhere
https://youtu.be/F8l8pvUpCLs?si=BMJPNVMYCa8WQend
(Also another one getting sleepwalker done)
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I hadnt clocked that your man had done Excalibur
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Some gratuitously stuttery editing, but wow what a route:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P9N1y6hHlzQ
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Patrick Edlinger climbing Consensus (8a+) in Cima. In High Definition.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WQzPGue9oyY
Impeccable
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What a beautiful piece of footage. No Kalymnos bolting there.
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So good! Thanks jwi.
Off the top of your head, which routes at ceuse are Edlingers? Changement de Look, Femme Noire, Femme Blanche...others?
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Incredible footage, the route looks like an absolute romp. Obscene amount of subtly blowing into his own hands, unbeatable.
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So good! Thanks jwi.
Off the top of your head, which routes at ceuse are Edlingers? Changement de Look, Femme Noire, Femme Blanche...others?
Tons more on Berlin and Demi Lune. Blockage Violent, Berlin, Poinonneur des Lilas, ... Grimper magazine had a special issue on Ceuse a few years ago with a great section on the first era of sport climbing in Ceuse. (Before widespread adoption of bolts, it was mostly known as a bouldering spot)
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Patrick Edlinger climbing Consensus (8a+) in Cima. In High Definition.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WQzPGue9oyY
Impeccable
I wonder how many kneebars are used these days on this route? Looks like a lot of potential for them
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I wonder how many kneebars are used these days on this route? Looks like a lot of potential for them
I think the entire quarry sector in Cimai is banned and has been banned for a long time? (I have never been to Cimai so I might be wrong).
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Don't know where this belongs, but Dave Mac reckons echo wall is E10 and a bunch of other interesting chat 👀
https://youtu.be/B-48S7gLP_I?si=yfqRYeeU26qnxjWd
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I think the entire quarry sector in Cimai is banned and has been banned for a long time? (I have never been to Cimai so I might be wrong).
Consensus has been logged a few times on 8a.nu in the last few years, might be one of those where it's officially banned but people still climb there on the down low?
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Don't know where this belongs, but Dave Mac reckons echo wall is E10 and a bunch of other interesting chat 👀
https://youtu.be/B-48S7gLP_I?si=yfqRYeeU26qnxjWd
Shots fired!
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Don't know where this belongs, but Dave Mac reckons echo wall is E10 and a bunch of other interesting chat 👀
https://youtu.be/B-48S7gLP_I?si=yfqRYeeU26qnxjWd
Finally someone at the upper end of the sport talking sense about grades! 100% what Dave said..
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Don't know where this belongs, but Dave Mac reckons echo wall is E10 and a bunch of other interesting chat 👀
https://youtu.be/B-48S7gLP_I?si=yfqRYeeU26qnxjWd
In summary, it's E10 because:
1. He reckons he overestimated the physical difficulty/sport grade (because it's awkward to work on a rope)
2. He's not really sure, and he'd rather err on the harsh side, partly as a corrective to overgrading and partly because it's less grief for him than going the other way
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Don't know where this belongs, but Dave Mac reckons echo wall is E10 and a bunch of other interesting chat 👀
https://youtu.be/B-48S7gLP_I?si=yfqRYeeU26qnxjWd
In summary, it's E10 because:
1. He reckons he overestimated the physical difficulty/sport grade (because it's awkward to work on a rope)
2. He's not really sure, and he'd rather err on the harsh side, partly as a corrective to overgrading and partly because it's less grief for him than going the other way
Despite being a somewhat true account of it, thats a shocking summary of it and in no way helpful to the grade debate. Are you actually disregarding the only (and most prolific hard trad climber in the country) person whos done the routes opinion??
Thatll help 🤣
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Don't know where this belongs, but Dave Mac reckons echo wall is E10 and a bunch of other interesting chat 👀
https://youtu.be/B-48S7gLP_I?si=yfqRYeeU26qnxjWd
In summary, it's E10 because:
1. He reckons he overestimated the physical difficulty/sport grade (because it's awkward to work on a rope)
2. He's not really sure, and he'd rather err on the harsh side, partly as a corrective to overgrading and partly because it's less grief for him than going the other way
Despite being a somewhat true account of it, thats a shocking summary of it and in no way helpful to the grade debate. Are you actually disregarding the only (and most prolific hard trad climber in the country) person whos done the routes opinion??
Thatll help 🤣
What? :???:
Please explain why that's not a good summary, and why you think I'm disregarding his opinion.
Genuinely confused, as I think those points pretty accurately summarise what he says about grading Echo Wall E10 in the video.
Edit: if you mean it's not a true summary of the whole video, I know, it wasn't meant to be, it was a direct response to the leading line 'Dave Mac reckons Echo Wall is E10'.
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It washes over the 25min justification he gives for his views with a load of context and just adds to the myth hes a sandbagger. My mistake if thats not the message you were trying to get across, but its what I took from your post. Its refreshing to have someone at the top end being truly objective and honest about their process and thoughts.
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Just reread your post and I was definitely a bit quick to jump down your throat sorry.
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Apology accepted! I wasn't meaning to diminish what he says about subjective inputs etc, just summarising the reasons for giving Echo Wall E10 specifically.
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Don't know where this belongs, but Dave Mac reckons a big provocative title about NOT CLIMBING E11 (after being quite prolific climbing E11s) will rake in the views and subs 👀
https://youtu.be/B-48S7gLP_I?si=yfqRYeeU26qnxjWd
P.S. Haven't watched yet, is this the same Echo Wall that was "ungraded but definitely harder than Rhapsody E11"??
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I like Dave and clearly he's almost peerless when it comes to hard trad in the UK across a variety of styles, but he does somewhat tie himself up in knots in this video. Most notably, earlier on he shrugs off the downgrade of the Longhope route ("I probably thought about it for ten minutes") - with what could well be a veiled dig at Pearson - but then later says he errs on the harsh side of grading partly to save himself "the pain" of a downgrade. I mean, clearly the guy is at liberty to say whatever he likes but he loses a little respect from me from seeming so dismissive of the emotional impact of downgrading on the first ascensionist when clearly he's not immune to it himself.
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Don't know where this belongs, but Dave Mac reckons a big provocative title about NOT CLIMBING E11 (after being quite prolific climbing E11s) will rake in the views and subs 👀
https://youtu.be/B-48S7gLP_I?si=yfqRYeeU26qnxjWd
P.S. Haven't watched yet, is this the same Echo Wall that was "ungraded but definitely harder than Rhapsody E11"??
One of the things he gets in to in the vid is how "hard for me" might just mean the route doesn't fit your style, and how he doesn't consider himself particularly bold so Echo Wall might fall in the the "hard for me but not others" bracket.
Reading between the lines a little, I suspect he'd probably give Rhapsody E10 if he did it these days.
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Don't know where this belongs, but Dave Mac reckons echo wall is E10 and a bunch of other interesting chat 👀
https://youtu.be/B-48S7gLP_I?si=yfqRYeeU26qnxjWd
100% beef :boxing:
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Reading between the lines a little, I suspect he'd probably give Rhapsody E10 if he did it these days.
Also reading between the lines, I think he'd like someone to repeat Echo Wall.
Interesting also what he says about Face Mecca, that he thinks only a few people could do it.
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100% beef :boxing:
Subtle beef? I didn't get that particularly. He disagrees with the grading machine but that's hardly beef :-\
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Just watching the vid again, one of the main things he seems to be suggesting is that trad grades should be pretty wide (e.g. Tolerance E8 and ~7b+ vs Darwin Dixit E8 and ~8b+). To me, the grade is kind of useless at that point, I could likely do one of those with a week or two of work, whereas the other might (big might) happen if I spent 5-10 years training in a dedicated fashion. At that point the grade isn't really conveying any useful information about my chances of getting up the route, so what is it for?
You could also look at it from the less puntery end of the spectrum: is there anyone who would solo Darwin Dixit but not be able to climb Tolerance? Seems unlikely.
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Just watching the vid again, one of the main things he seems to be suggesting is that trad grades should be pretty wide (e.g. Tolerance E8 and ~7b+ vs Darwin Dixit E8 and ~8b+). To me, the grade is kind of useless at that point, I could likely do one of those with a week or two of work, whereas the other might (big might) happen if I spent 5-10 years training in a dedicated fashion. At that point the grade isn't really conveying any useful information about my chances of getting up the route, so what is it for?
You could also look at it from the less puntery end of the spectrum: is there anyone who would solo Darwin Dixit but not be able to climb Tolerance? Seems unlikely.
But is this not what one full french lettergrade difference implies?
A soft 8a+ can take me two days of work (it it is really ludicrously soft and suits me well), an hard 8b+ ... well I will likely never do one in my life (I tried one that was an extension of an 8a+ I did in four-five tries. I tried it for a full season and did not feel super-close to sending).
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At least you've got a couple of grades difference there. Dave is suggesting they're both the same grade!
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100% beef :boxing:
Subtle beef? I didn't get that particularly. He disagrees with the grading machine but that's hardly beef :-\
Forgive me, I was making a play out of the fact that Dave once ate nothing but beef for a month. He's a mild-mannered man, but it's clear from the video that he doesn't think much of the E(go)-grader and he wants to downgrade the world. I think I love him.
He is a man who loves beef. Eat, sleep, beef, repeat.
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Forgive me, I was making a play out of the fact that Dave once ate nothing but beef for a month.
He is a man who loves beef. Eat, sleep, beef, repeat.
Ah. Very good.
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Isn't this just another case of pro climber first ascent grading perfected by Dunne: suggest large number, receive media attention, grade subsequently drifts down, job done.
Or perhaps he genuinely thought it was 'harder than E11'. It's ok to make a misteak.
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Jorge Diaz-Rullo on Bibilographie
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lqIITpFWOto
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https://youtu.be/wajWz6vBjXY
A short film about the third ascent of a 13d 14a in Little Cottonwood Canyon. The climbing is decent but it's most notable for ukb readership for an interview with first ascentionist Jonny Woodward, still drinking tea and with only the faintest of twangs after more than 40 years in the USA.
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most notable for ukb readership for an interview with first ascentionist Jonny Woodward, still drinking tea and with only the faintest of twangs after more than 40 years in the USA.
Looking forward to watching this later. Getting to meet and spend a couple of hours climbing on the grit with Jonny sometime in the mid-90s was one of the highlights of my climbing life.
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I think i spotted Jonny Woodwood in a clip advertising a film called The Mentor that's just out
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I think i spotted Jonny Woodwood in a clip advertising a film called The Mentor that's just out
You did. A portrait of Maria Cranor, an amazing woman. Jonny was married to Maria for a a number years, though the film doesn't mention this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lwimfJFAB3Y
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Bit of Seb pr0n.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EV92iFq-NM8