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Got my mojo working again. (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2011/05/got-my-mojo-working-again.html)
12 May 2011, 5:13 pm
Last year was a bit of a write off for a couple of reasons. This year is looking much more promising. The weather is better and we've been able to get out on the rock regularly since just before Easter. As a result, I'm feeling fitter and I'm really psyched.
The weekend after coming back from Rodellar, I managed to redpoint "Connecting People". Before the holiday, I was sure it was 8a+, but after redpoint I decided to agree with everybody else with 8a. Either way, it's a great connection linking "Come on Chris" and "le Dernier Jour de Democratie" at les Marches du Palais.
Last weekend, we went up to Le Palais, which is a really long walk above Monaco, and I got stuck into "le Mort de Cesar", an excellent 8a that finishes up another 8a ("On Attendant le Hubbert Peak") I did 4 years ago. First go, was the usual hard graft sitting on the rope dogging sketch, but 2nd go I finally got the moves (and kneebars) sorted. So, I have this route now ready for the redpoint, maybe this Saturday. Afterwards, we stopped by at Petit Palais (amazingly for the 1st time, having always walked past). We did the 6c+ and 7a+, both of which were tough for the grade. We went back for a very quick session on Sunday, before Man Utd played Chelsea. Elaine played on the 6c+ and I managed "Gladiator", a tough but great 7b+ with a tricky cross through move.
Yesterday, we went to Mesa Verde, in the Gorges du Loup and had lots of fun talking and joking with Marie-Jo, Julien, Sabine and Laurence. Conditions were great. So Elaine and I wamed up on the steep 6c+ and "Pas de bras, pas de chocolat" 7a, then I found another brill project. I'd never done "Petit Poucet", so I thought it would be a good one to try with the connection into "Arrowhead". This is fantastic and I've got it sorted for redpoint now.
So, I now have a problem. Where to go this weekend? Which route to try? Or should I try both? Only one more day, trying to motivate the next generation and then back on the rock! It's great to be psyched again....
Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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(http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2012/05/id-forgotten-that-id-set-up-this-blog.html)
24 May 2012, 10:59 am
I'd forgotten that I'd set up this blog last year, perhaps because I hadn't had anything interesting to put in it. Perhaps not.
We haven't seemed to do a lot of climbing in the last year, not like we used to do. We spend too much time looking at the weather forecast and staying at home, if there is any hint of rain! We should bite the bullit and get away in the camper van more often.
Since early April, I have had to put up with a numb lower lip, teeth and chin on the left side of my face. This is because the dentist cut the mandibular nerve when re-doing a root canal (as I had an infection in a root). I usually see Helen in Cagnes sur Mer, but she is always booked up, so I saw her associate instead. I have had to have an operation in my mouth to try and sort out the problem. The op was successful. However, the nerve is unlikely to regenerate and I am slowly getting used to the lack of feeling. As a result, I am missing 2 crowns and a bridge and feeling very self conscious when opening my mouth. Eating is no longer a pleasure, as I often bite myself (at least I don't feel it!) and I can't talk for long as my mouth hasn't fully healed inside. We have a GAV insurance, which should enable me to gain some compensation.
On Tuesday, we went to see Coldplay in Nice. The rain stopped at last and it was a fantastic gig with amazing special effects. Everybody had a magic coloured bracelet that lit up. We got home way after 2am as the roads were jammed solid. I'm hoping that I can attach some photos to this......
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-V-lrmluk6K4/T74UMoX4WNI/AAAAAAAAABE/y3YOS_CSYHY/s640/Coldplay+1.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-V-lrmluk6K4/T74UMoX4WNI/AAAAAAAAABE/y3YOS_CSYHY/s1600/Coldplay+1.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2bGJc01yKtc/T74UW6ENRfI/AAAAAAAAABM/rYKpNmbikxs/s640/Coldplay2.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2bGJc01yKtc/T74UW6ENRfI/AAAAAAAAABM/rYKpNmbikxs/s1600/Coldplay2.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kVOE4liKtAo/T74Udv3xJII/AAAAAAAAABU/KaNI5feWUXk/s640/Bouldering+at+Annot.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kVOE4liKtAo/T74Udv3xJII/AAAAAAAAABU/KaNI5feWUXk/s1600/Bouldering+at+Annot.jpg)
We have been out a few times recently; a day bouldering at Annot, la grotte at La Brigue and some days in the gorge. This afternoon, I'm meeting up with some friends at Mesa Verde, which is hopefully dry. We'll see.
Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Je suis un lion tres amicable qui s'appelle "Parsley" (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2012/10/je-suis-un-lion-tres-amicable-qui_5414.html)
3 October 2012, 6:22 pm
I do the shopping now. It is something I try hard to fit in between working and climbing (remember, I now work part time, ok?). I like doing the weekly shop. I get to buy nice wine and there is always beer in the house now. Anyway, I slipped up a few weeks ago, when re-stocking the camper van. I bought a jar of ciboulette (chives) instead of basil. Otherwise, my track record is doing well.
Tonight we ate early (after a quick session at Jurassic Park) as the Boss had to go for a scan on her left hand (she slammed into the rock whilst belaying me when I fell off somewhere recently and it's been hurting since). We haven't had as much fun over tomates et mozzarelle for a long time! Reason: we got talking about the ciboulet and that prompted us to remember the 60's children's tv series called "The Herbs". It was quite worrying how quickly we trawled through over 40 years of memories and we were soon excitedly trying to remember the characters. However, I puffed my chest out when I remembered Parsley and then threw the ace when I sang the first line of his signature tune: "I'm a very friendly lion called Parsley". Get in!
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Herbs
Check it out dudes.
Here's a couple of shots of Elaine climbing at Jurassic Park.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-njxdTk2MR88/UGx_6h7lWZI/AAAAAAAAADw/E1ctV443mB0/s640/201.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-njxdTk2MR88/UGx_6h7lWZI/AAAAAAAAADw/E1ctV443mB0/s1600/201.JPG)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cTpiXYy7Hr4/UGyAXlQRhcI/AAAAAAAAAD4/oAnqO3EnKUE/s640/214.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-cTpiXYy7Hr4/UGyAXlQRhcI/AAAAAAAAAD4/oAnqO3EnKUE/s1600/214.JPG)
Tomorrow: Fatman and Robin go to secteur Jacob at la Turbie. That'll wipe the smile of my face, as there's nothing easy (below 8a) left for me to do there! Maybe, I'll get a good project as that's what I need..... Watch this space!
Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Pocket power (or the lack of) (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2012/10/pocket-power-or-lack-of.html)
8 October 2012, 8:03 pm
I'm a very, very slow climber. Always have been and always will be. I'm even slower than Tony Mitchell (but nowhere near as stylish). I imagine watching me climb is completely different from the fast, action-packed movement of Chris Sharma and even less interesting than watching paint dry. That's because I started climbing on nuts and I didn't dare fall off. By necessity, climbing was like a war of attrition; you took your time and hung on by the grit of your teeth. Old habits die hard. The result is that I really struggle with anything that comes near to a hard move, due to a complete lack of what Ben and Jerry called "power". Just like the late, great Jim Jewel, I can't pull on the smallest holds, but those I can pull on, I can pull on all day. At Art'bloc I struggle on the warm ups, but put me on a long route with good holds and I'm in heaven.
Yesterday, after a very sweaty Saturday at Cineplex (getting closer on my project there) we went to Mesa Verde. There is a new 7c there, which Big Ben said was really good. However, he failed to mention that the crux involves a mono. (Ok, even I can manage the odd mono move.) But this mono was very painful indeed and it was impossible to bear the pain. I actually got past the mono on redpoint but my finger was in agony. So, I need to go back and do it properly without the rest. Maybe on Wednesday.
Pockets have always been hard work. This mono can be added to the list that also includes the bi-doigt on Au Bout du Souffle (left hand 1st and 2nd fingers), the bi-doigt on Barjorland (middle 2 fingers on right hand) and the bi-doigt on Soul Sacrifice (middle 2 fingers, right hand again). At least I managed the first two but never completed SS, despite it being a stones throw from home.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-W5WHj2GrP5Q/UHMvZ2cSK_I/AAAAAAAAAEM/2RtcBihYhVk/s640/IMG_0053.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-W5WHj2GrP5Q/UHMvZ2cSK_I/AAAAAAAAAEM/2RtcBihYhVk/s1600/IMG_0053.JPG)
Pulling on the 2 finger pocket on Au Bout du Souffle, in 2005
Elaine has got a small broken bone in her left hand from a few weeks back, whilst belaying me. And today, she had a synovial fluid injection in her problem middle finger on her right hand. Hopefully, that should see her on the mend and she can get back to normal soon.
Parents evening tomorrow, arrrgggghhhhh!!!
Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Francois Hollande et sa chemise (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2012/10/francois-hollande-et-sa-chemise.html)
11 October 2012, 7:27 pm
Fatman and Robin made it out together today after a 2 week break. We met up at the parking spot for le Palais. Conditions weren't promising as there was way too much humidity and the cloud layer was very low. Still, we set off for Petit Palais as planned.
Franco and Flaviano were already there. Flaviano was wearing a really bright orange shirt (chemise) and I mentioned that he was making a statement by wearing it. We discussed the possibility of an equivalent French word for "statement" and it seems there is no such word. I tried to explain it was rather like Francois Hollande stating that he would have a clean and straight government. So, Robin tried his best to get his head round this revelation, but in the end he said he couldn't really see the link between Francois Hollande and Flaviano's shirt! Erm, you had to be there really ....
We had a great day, despite poor conditions. Robin made short work of "Le Retour de Mo", a very powerful 7c/7c+ and I managed a 1st redpoint of "Quel trip te guette?", a fantastic 7c+ that I'd had my eye on for a couple of years. An early finish for 2 very happy crag rats.
Flaviano climbing "Ideal Pouf", 7b
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cr-ckPwDjPc/UHcZqSC4MDI/AAAAAAAAAE4/UUQboYrppM4/s640/015.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cr-ckPwDjPc/UHcZqSC4MDI/AAAAAAAAAE4/UUQboYrppM4/s1600/015.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NtHMDhQtQ2M/UHcWp1MTHgI/AAAAAAAAAEc/n43pAExi_a8/s640/008.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NtHMDhQtQ2M/UHcWp1MTHgI/AAAAAAAAAEc/n43pAExi_a8/s1600/008.jpg)
Robin climbing "Le Retour de Mo", 7c/7c+
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_oqLFzzhX4Y/UHcXueelfzI/AAAAAAAAAEs/yLZJJ_F8Qrw/s640/009.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_oqLFzzhX4Y/UHcXueelfzI/AAAAAAAAAEs/yLZJJ_F8Qrw/s1600/009.jpg)Chuffed to do the new 7c at Mesa Verde yesterday, too. Looking good for Cineplex this weekend.
Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Sponge Bob Square Pants and the Monsoon. (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2012/11/sponge-bob-square-pants-and-monsoon.html)
11 November 2012, 5:43 pm
Earlier this year, I met up with a couple of great mates (from my previous life back in cold, wet Britain) at Ceuse. As usual, I had to make sure I had my thick skin on, as Ewan and Steve both have a wicked sense of humour. Anyway, Steve very quickly spotted the cheap jeans that I was climbing in and proceeded to hurl abuse my way. (At 6 euros a pair from Carrefour they are great value and they're brilliant for kneebars; they don't get holes first time the knee goes behind a tufa and you don't need to faff about with kneepads either.) As the banter developed, he dealt the killer punch line (after I had let slip that they were 30" waist and 30" leg). Since then, I have had to get used to the nickname of "Sponge Bob Square Pants"!!!
Erm, changing the subject quickly. Since the last entry, we have had an awful lot of rain down here. So much that most of the crags are now very wet and will take a long time to dry. The rain came in earnest during the 1/2 term holiday of course and at the weekends as well. How typical is that? So, Fatman and Robin haven't been back to Peillon, which will definitely be dripping. Crags in the Gorges du Loup are also very wet too.
We did get to Italy for a couple of nice days as well as to "Alcatraz". Alcatraz is a fairly new crag (equipped by the mega keen Olivier Germain) which has some classic routes, that don't seep much, overlooking Monaco. It was really encouraging to do the brilliant "Mont Fantasme" (7c+) in a day.
Changing the subject again. Elaine is now climbing again. We've been to the local bouldering walls a couple of times. She is taking it easy of course, but her finger seems to be getting better. Great news indeed.
Another positive: Liverpool have just equalised against Chelsea. Come on the Reds, lets get 3 points! (It'll make a nice change!!!)
Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Funny how things go sometimes. (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2012/11/funny-how-things-go-sometimes.html)
26 November 2012, 8:27 pm
Funny how things go sometimes. You can spend ages trying to get fit again, trying and always falling off stuff and feeling like you're not getting anywhere. Then one day everything clicks into place; you know you're on form and the climbs suddenly feel easy when you do them.
That's what's been happening since taking up what my old mate Phil Davidson was doing 30 years ago! Yes, I've stopped eating any old rubbish, ie. no processed food, no sugar and low on the carbs. This has meant oat bran and natural yoghurt for breakfast, plenty of fruit and ryvita style biscuits during the day and salad without bread in the evening and definitely no beer. In just 4 weeks I've lost 6kg and I'm feeling great!
Anyway, in the last 3 days I managed several 7a/b's, 2 7b+ onsights, almost a bouldery 7c onsight (so 1st go redpoint) and redpointed 2 8a's. Brilliant!
We've also been going down to Art'Bloc on Wednesday afternoons, as the days are too short to get out after work now. There are so many great problems to do. Just as well, as we'll be spending more time there as the forecast is not good for the rest of the week. Let's see what Thursday and the weekend bring.
Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Happy new year everybody (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2013/01/happy-new-year-everybody.html)
1 January 2013, 2:22 pm
It's a damp, cold day here in Le Rouret, very un-French and more like typical UK weather. Still, it doesn't matter as my body needs a rest after climbing the last six days.
The last month has been colder (not surprising for December, I know) and I caught a pretty bad cold at school. I still haven't shaken it off, so the climbing has suffered. We spent some time bouldering at Art'bloc and Valle de grimpe, but hardly any time outdoors. With the holidays arriving, we were keen to get away in the Cali but didn't want to make the usual long drive to Catalunya. So, we decided to head to Valle Pennavaire (Castell Bianco) near Albenga an hour and a half away in Italy. Unfortunately, the sun didn't follow us and the crags were very wet, so we returned home for Christmas after enduring two damp and cold days at Terminal.
After Christmas dinner, we were wondering where to go next. Elaine came up with a great idea to go to the crags near Toulon. Immediately I was transported back in time, remembering the long falls off En un combat douteux at Cimai (whilst putting the clips in for Ian Vickers, who refused to watch me so that he could do it onsight!). Patrick Edlinger gave me some great beta for the last section, that enabled me to redpoint the same day Ian did Treblinka Direct. That was a very cold day in March, 1996 and it was the last time I had been climbing near Toulon.
So, we headed off in the Cali and were climbing in the sun at Coudon, about two hours after leaving home. Brilliant! Elaine was happy to do some easy 6a's to test her finger and I was happy with just onsighting up to 7a+ (not easy on match stick edges on vertical walls, just like in the 80's!). After two days we moved on to Baou des quatre oures and found the climbing much more friendly (i.e. steeper and with bigger holds) at secteurs Cayenne and Minarets (ticking away at the routes in the excellent Cote d'Azur Rockfax). We did loads of brilliant, long routes from 5+ up to 7b+ and most of the time we had the crag to ourselves. We headed home last night for a well earned rest, as the forecast was for rain today.
It really feels like winter here now, the temperature downstairs in our "cave" has dropped to 11 degrees and I had to light the fire at mid day. Snow was forecasted today but so far hasn't arrived.
2012 was not a year that we'll remember with great affection in years to come, but we do have some fond memories that have made us very happy and put big smiles on our faces. We're hoping to have lots more happy times in 2013. And of course, I'd like to wish all of you all the best for the coming year, great health and hope you realise your dreams.
Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Wet Monday afternoon (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2013/01/wet-monday-afternoon.html)
14 January 2013, 4:22 pm
Scamp and I have just got back home after our walk up the hill behind our house. It was pretty cold out there - I had to put a fleece over my T shirt and hoodie! However, what I should have put on was a waterproof. From the summit, I could see that it was raining over Roquefort les Pins and, on the way down, it caught us about 15 minutes from home and we got pretty wet. Still, it could have been much worse. Now the fire is roaring away and a very happy, tired dog is sleeping underneath and I've got a mug of Twinings Earl Grey. We're both drying out nicely.
Not-so-Fatman and Robin have been out cragging. They were seen having a merry old time at Castillon last week. On Thursday, N-s-F was chuffed to do a 7c he hadn't done before called Ultimate Mort de Faim, which does all of Starlette then follows tufas and a groove to the top of the crag after 30 metres of very varied climbing. On Saturday, they both hauled themselves up the first part of Mortal Kombat, a tough, powerful 7c+. N-s-F had already done the full version at 8b in 2005 (an event he happily relives most days) but it was the first time for his trusty side kick, Robin. They then moved onto Doom (down graded to hard 7c), the route just to the left of Mortal. (N-s-F did this with "steady" Eddie Martinez way back in 1998, before he moved down here with lovely wife and Merlin.) They both huffed and puffed, with arms that were already feeling tired. Unfortunately, it was too much for the young Robin (who apparently was heard to complain about the age difference as N-s-F reached the belay, after a real fight up the damp tufa in the middle!).
Whilst the boys were out battling with the real thing, Elaine went to Val de Grimpe (a fantastic bouldering wall nearby, opened up by Alex Chabot) and had an equally merry time by all accounts with no problems experienced with her injured finger. We will be doing more of the same at Art'Bloc this Wednesday afternoon (shame Val de Grimpe doesn't open until 6pm!!).
Yesterday was cold and overcast and Liverpool were not up to beating Man Utd. Just when will they be able to knock Fergie and Man U off the perch that used to be Liverppool's?
Oh well, I should drag myself downstairs and do some bouldering in the cave. See ya.
Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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January and February 2013 (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2013/03/its-thursday-again-only-day-i-get-to.html)
7 March 2013, 10:17 am
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ibSMDFVgQj4/UT90HWbunyI/AAAAAAAAAIk/hDql9OqbVMg/s640/Chouchou+Place+2.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ibSMDFVgQj4/UT90HWbunyI/AAAAAAAAAIk/hDql9OqbVMg/s1600/Chouchou+Place+2.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The fingery lower section of Chouchou Place, 7c. Photo by Julien/Voyages a la verticale.[/td][/tr]
[/table]It's Thursday again (the only day I get to lie in whilst Elaine takes Scamp for a walk). It's also the day that Not-so-fatman and Robin get together and have the difficult task of going out climbing on the fabulous Cote d'Azur crags. I know, it's a tough life! However, unfortunately it's been raining for a couple of days now and today is shaping up the same way. Time for me to catch up, as it's been a while since my last blog.
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lSARgXOl8nI/UT8luZzRJgI/AAAAAAAAAIE/OvcD5d5LNiE/s640/05.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lSARgXOl8nI/UT8luZzRJgI/AAAAAAAAAIE/OvcD5d5LNiE/s1600/05.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Mike, Elaine, Scamp, Marie-Jo, Gerard and Marc at Chouchou Place (photo by Julien/Voyages a la verticale)[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RA1uiKrJgbY/UT9ybpXt5AI/AAAAAAAAAIU/YpMvnyH8-XQ/s640/Samsung+GT+photos+020.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RA1uiKrJgbY/UT9ybpXt5AI/AAAAAAAAAIU/YpMvnyH8-XQ/s1600/Samsung+GT+photos+020.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Elaine and Scamp at Greolieres in January[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mFViEbuPkAI/UT9yoVOfR2I/AAAAAAAAAIc/DVemS-B2dng/s640/Chouchou+Place+5.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mFViEbuPkAI/UT9yoVOfR2I/AAAAAAAAAIc/DVemS-B2dng/s1600/Chouchou+Place+5.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Chouchou Place, 7c (photo by Julien/Voyages a la verticale)[/td][/tr]
[/table]
Since the new year, the weather has been very unsettled. Typically the pattern has been for an unsettled week with periods of heavy rain followed by a week or two of good weather, during which it has been possible to climb on the dry crags (ie. mostly those without tufas). Then the rain has returned again. It's been pretty frustrating for all the keen climbers down here. Most of us have been ticking over, occasionally snatching some good routes and keeping fit at Art'Bloc and Val de Grimpe.
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yLG2h6J2mEU/UThjxrBmVzI/AAAAAAAAAHY/skJf9j9lrAo/s640/Samsung+GT+photos+039.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yLG2h6J2mEU/UThjxrBmVzI/AAAAAAAAAHY/skJf9j9lrAo/s1600/Samsung+GT+photos+039.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Elaine and Scamp on the way to Chouchou Place in February[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TXvheQ0_AEM/UThjaaXbMFI/AAAAAAAAAHQ/eVqN1JLVtiU/s640/Samsung+GT+photos+023.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TXvheQ0_AEM/UThjaaXbMFI/AAAAAAAAAHQ/eVqN1JLVtiU/s1600/Samsung+GT+photos+023.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Robin warming up on a 6c at Chouchou Place in the February sun[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pY1DiAvVzsE/UThi9Nyb56I/AAAAAAAAAG4/NwhhE_uDTN4/s640/Samsung+GT+photos+044.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pY1DiAvVzsE/UThi9Nyb56I/AAAAAAAAAG4/NwhhE_uDTN4/s1600/Samsung+GT+photos+044.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The whole place to ourselves. How cool is that?[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aerMmECmEWw/UThjHBew26I/AAAAAAAAAHA/vTJHdd9jem4/s640/Samsung+GT+photos+043.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aerMmECmEWw/UThjHBew26I/AAAAAAAAAHA/vTJHdd9jem4/s1600/Samsung+GT+photos+043.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Elaine still looking good in SOS pants at Isola[/td][/tr]
[/table]Elaine and I have even been skiing and making the most of the brilliant conditions. We've had a couple of great days at Isola 2000 (where there was almost 3m of snow) and a couple of superb days at Valberg last weekend. Yours truly had a nasty wipe out at Isola, cutting my head (5 stitches needed) and covering the piste with lots of the red stuff. The irony was that the day before I had a helmet in my hand at Decathlon but decided not to buy it. Guess what was the next thing we bought?
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3Ia5VfocKII/UTho3wMQ88I/AAAAAAAAAHk/SI_SLvJ_Nlk/s640/Samsung+GT+photos+040.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-3Ia5VfocKII/UTho3wMQ88I/AAAAAAAAAHk/SI_SLvJ_Nlk/s1600/Samsung+GT+photos+040.jpg)
I'm made up that I've remembered how to upload photos! And I'm psyched for some bouldering this afternoon with Marie-Jo, Julien and Robin whilst the rest of you folks are keeping the world turning! See ya!
Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Oats and bouldering (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2013/03/im-just-letting-my-quaker-oats-settle.html)
14 March 2013, 9:47 am
I'm just letting my "Quaker Oats" settle. They make a nice start to the day with honey and ground cinnamon, when I'm not working. So, I've booted up my laptop and found an email from Atout Roc (the local climbing club that I donated my earnings from Rockfax a couple of years ago) with an up to date topo of Chouchou Place (the current spot a la mode). Great; it looks like there's still more to go back for, if and when the weather improves long enough.
At the moment the sun is out, but I've checked the forecast again and they're still saying rain later on. So, Robin and I have a rdv for Art'bloc this afternoon. Should be a tough session, as my body aches from yesterday's session at Val de grimpe! Plus, my ribs/intercostal muscles are still really sore from my ski accident 3 weeks ago! It's important to get the excuses out ready...
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KmBM5LZFXRg/UUGVMsnAYqI/AAAAAAAAAI0/uE6jG0vWupk/s640/Elaine,+Cratcliffe+3.bmp) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KmBM5LZFXRg/UUGVMsnAYqI/AAAAAAAAAI0/uE6jG0vWupk/s1600/Elaine,+Cratcliffe+3.bmp)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--y1yl-YQ48c/UUGVOyDfPFI/AAAAAAAAAI8/jWiU15DZ85s/s640/Elaine,+Cratcliffe+2.bmp) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/--y1yl-YQ48c/UUGVOyDfPFI/AAAAAAAAAI8/jWiU15DZ85s/s1600/Elaine,+Cratcliffe+2.bmp)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-N8x7lgCVuGY/UUGVxRRS4TI/AAAAAAAAAJE/GiJ1XZN7hlE/s640/Elaine,+Cratcliffe+again+1.bmp) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-N8x7lgCVuGY/UUGVxRRS4TI/AAAAAAAAAJE/GiJ1XZN7hlE/s1600/Elaine,+Cratcliffe+again+1.bmp)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dDJ6NAYFfmE/UUGXQgAfZRI/AAAAAAAAAJQ/nvK2nkrWc04/s640/Mike,+Cul+de+chien,+Font.+Dec+97.bmp) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-dDJ6NAYFfmE/UUGXQgAfZRI/AAAAAAAAAJQ/nvK2nkrWc04/s1600/Mike,+Cul+de+chien,+Font.+Dec+97.bmp)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-md86RxdynuY/UUGXea5BPdI/AAAAAAAAAJY/OFYffuSVAWg/s640/Elaine,+Shipley+again.bmp) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-md86RxdynuY/UUGXea5BPdI/AAAAAAAAAJY/OFYffuSVAWg/s1600/Elaine,+Shipley+again.bmp)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Uvu9gqCg_og/UUGYL4U6l-I/AAAAAAAAAJk/oPdTqU7wen0/s640/Mike+finishing+Cul+de+chien,+Font.+Dec+97.bmp) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Uvu9gqCg_og/UUGYL4U6l-I/AAAAAAAAAJk/oPdTqU7wen0/s1600/Mike+finishing+Cul+de+chien,+Font.+Dec+97.bmp)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uYTkoC1P8wQ/UUGZHgoaKbI/AAAAAAAAAJw/uPCK-Y4y4XM/s640/Mike,+Hitchikers,+Kyloe+In,+!997.bmp) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uYTkoC1P8wQ/UUGZHgoaKbI/AAAAAAAAAJw/uPCK-Y4y4XM/s1600/Mike,+Hitchikers,+Kyloe+In,+!997.bmp)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PUN02I0PzIs/UUGZkwkjTII/AAAAAAAAAJ4/g0R3uNiePgA/s640/Mike+and+John+Gaskins,+Kyloe+In.bmp) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PUN02I0PzIs/UUGZkwkjTII/AAAAAAAAAJ4/g0R3uNiePgA/s1600/Mike+and+John+Gaskins,+Kyloe+In.bmp)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--FZmT0zU8QA/UUGaEym9cyI/AAAAAAAAAKE/UGn8nHF8obM/s640/Mike,+Almscliff.bmp) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--FZmT0zU8QA/UUGaEym9cyI/AAAAAAAAAKE/UGn8nHF8obM/s1600/Mike,+Almscliff.bmp)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UPVVmZSVEE0/UUGa5wc-4XI/AAAAAAAAAKM/DFaI7qkYZnk/s640/Elaine,+Shipley.bmp) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-UPVVmZSVEE0/UUGa5wc-4XI/AAAAAAAAAKM/DFaI7qkYZnk/s1600/Elaine,+Shipley.bmp)Talking about indoor bouldering, I think I've got some old photos of our board in St Helens. I'll trawl the collection and see what I can post.
I could only find some outdoor bouldering shots from the 90's. See if you can identify any. Meanwhile, I'll be thinking of you all again working away today. Allez, ciao!
Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Another rainy Thursday.... (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2013/03/another-rainy-thursday.html)
28 March 2013, 10:54 am
It's surprising how quickly the time passes (even when the weather's not good enough to get out on the rock!). Since my last post, 2 weeks ago, Robin and I managed to get out only once. We had a great day at Chouchou Place last Thursday. It felt like spring had arrived as it was warm and sunny. Since then it's been raining more or less every day and there seems to be no end in sight! (Still, it's not as bad as the UK weather at the moment.)
So, the climbing walls are eating into our bank account big time. Imagine my surprise bumping into a bloke I used to teach 12 years ago at Art'bloc yesterday! Eugen wasn't really motivated in school, though he was an interesting and very respectful teenager. He's here on holiday, so I'm going to meet up with him for another session there today. So I hope to find out how he got involved in climbing. I do remember he was into martial arts and was very athletic. He blew my mind when he did a back somersault from the top of a 9m cliff into the river, during a break whilst canoeing. Boy, I was so impressed and I'm really chuffed that he's got into climbing.
I managed to find and scan some old slides of our original climbing board back in St Helens from around 1992. We added loads of holds later on and it became quite popular with local climbers Pete Chadwick, Ewan McCallum and Steve Tonks. A regular visitor was Lancs power house John Gaskins and even Tony Mitchell put in a couple of appearances.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2lerqjm2Y5U/UVQg9yLGW_I/AAAAAAAAAKc/CFg3WDQ6p8U/s640/img035.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2lerqjm2Y5U/UVQg9yLGW_I/AAAAAAAAAKc/CFg3WDQ6p8U/s1600/img035.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zwJFCAZPOEI/UVQhEvW0X3I/AAAAAAAAAKk/6gnD1Z_Q-b0/s640/img031.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zwJFCAZPOEI/UVQhEvW0X3I/AAAAAAAAAKk/6gnD1Z_Q-b0/s1600/img031.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ESHRrf761GQ/UVQhLLktleI/AAAAAAAAAKs/mN8Dqs_4REw/s640/img008.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ESHRrf761GQ/UVQhLLktleI/AAAAAAAAAKs/mN8Dqs_4REw/s1600/img008.jpg)
Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Para Para Paradise (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2013/04/para-para-paradise.html)
22 April 2013, 4:42 pm
Imagine it's your birthday. Imagine, also, that it's Christmas. Oh, and new year, too. And, come to think of it, imagine it's just about all the great days in the year all happening at once. It's like having so many presents you just don't know which one to open first. Well, you've just discovered what it's like to climb on Kalymnos!
If you're any sort of climber, you'll have heard about Kalymnos. But, if you're not you won't have. Kalymnos is a very small, barren island a few km north of Kos and therefore part of Greece. There isn't much there or really much to do either, though the climate is nice (ie. sunny and warm). The Kalymnian economy relies on summer tourism since the decline of the island's sponge industry. Fresh water is sparse and tastes salty. The sanitation system can't cope with toilet paper, so it has to go in a bin next to the toilet! However, as luck would have it, the west side of the island has cliffs. Lots of them. And spectacular they are, as well. Since 1997, Kalymnos has actively encouraged the equipping of these cliffs to entice climbers from all around the world to sample their amazing climbs. There are plenty of studios and rooms to rent at affordable prices and within walking distance of many of the crags. It's very cheap to eat out in the numerous restaurants and the locals are so friendly (most speak excellent English). If you fancy visiting the outlying crags or just want to go sight-seeing it is possible to hire a scooter for the day. This is not new information, of course.
Elaine and I had not paid a visit. We live in a beautiful part of the world already, which has a wealth of fantastic climbing all year round. Plus having a dog, which we don't like leaving behind and also now having a camper van to travel. And so on. There have been many excuses over the years. However, the urge to go had been getting stronger and stronger in recent years. Infact, I became so envious each time I read people's posts on Facebook. Eventually, I daren't mention the "K" word in the house for fear of upsetting my loving and dearest! However, this year's bad weather, in most of Europe, meant that we finally got to go at last.
We flew from Milan direct to Kos and took the ferry to Kalymnos, just like thousands before us had. We had a wonderful surprise awaiting us at Pothia. We hadn't seen Chris Craggs for about twenty years, but there he was at the harbour, ready to take us to our accomodation at Louistudios, run by the super freindly and efficient Louis Siahamis. After shopping for provisions, then bumping into a tired looking Andy Cave, followed by an ice cream with Twid, we set off with a couple of hours daylight left. Our destination being the world famous Grande Grotta with long upside down pumpfests and tufas of every shape and size everywhere. We quickly warmed up on an excellent 6a+ and then I set off up Trela, a forty metre 7a, which I found hard and just about got up. Nevermind, I thought I must be tired from the journey or perhaps Kalymnos grades weren't that easy after all! (A couple of days later I found out that I had accidently done Tufantastic, which is 7b+ and then had to return to do Trela, which was much easier!)
The climbing at Kalymnos is ideal for "on-sighting" (climbing with no knowledge of the climb at all and without falling off or working the moves followed by a "red-point" ascent later on) because most of the holds are user friendly and there are plenty of places to have a breather and size up the next sequence. I wanted to do the two classic 7c's Priapos and Aegialis (the latter was still very wet). I was absolutely made up to do both completely on-sight, despite having to "dig deep" near the top of Aegialis! I then wondered if it would be possible to on-sight an 8a? Fun de Chichunne (40m of three dimensional upside down climbing) would be the one for me, if it was possible. And it was! So, almost 24 years since red-pointing my first 8a, and 200 grade 8 climbs later I eventually managed my first 8a on-sight at the age of almost 55! Words couldn't describe the feeling. I was on a major high after that.
The rest of the holiday continued in the same way with lots of great climbing. Further high points included DNA Extension (8a+), Super Priapos (8a+) and Daniboy (8a), all done first red-point; and Zawinul Syndicate (7c+) on-sight. It was quite funny showing a group of young Brit's how to "do it" on Daniboy (they were surprised when an old, bald, short and wide giffer joined the queue and even more surprised when he was the only one to "send it" that day!). Towards the end of the holiday, however, tiredness began to show and I dropped both Tufa King Hard and Joggel and Toggel. But I was happy enough to do them first red-point.
So, we made the return journey last Saturday. Both of us were looking forward to sleeping in our own bed and having hot water whenever you need it! But, both of us were sad to be leaving climbing paradise and the many friends we'd made, particulary Louis and also Ed from Chattanooga with his warm and infectious laughter. We both hope to return some day......
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MruYxLYE--g/UXVlIZ1tg6I/AAAAAAAAAK8/DMuyXTN9fGs/s640/033.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MruYxLYE--g/UXVlIZ1tg6I/AAAAAAAAAK8/DMuyXTN9fGs/s1600/033.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Finally, Kalymnos bound. Waiting for the ferry at Mastichari.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-moLkSlFBLoo/UXVlJKJlb9I/AAAAAAAAALE/gNUzYetO58E/s640/036.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-moLkSlFBLoo/UXVlJKJlb9I/AAAAAAAAALE/gNUzYetO58E/s1600/036.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]A windy crossing with Pierre Brizzi (far right) and Nicholas Rey.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NK_x6_R0qTA/UXVlb1NiUtI/AAAAAAAAALU/yO4akzw4G0g/s640/038.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NK_x6_R0qTA/UXVlb1NiUtI/AAAAAAAAALU/yO4akzw4G0g/s1600/038.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The view from our studio: Telendos.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ByFJNpAEECA/UXVlV1cL2bI/AAAAAAAAALM/njRSm6rXq6w/s640/039.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ByFJNpAEECA/UXVlV1cL2bI/AAAAAAAAALM/njRSm6rXq6w/s1600/039.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The view in another direction: Grande Grotta.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0wwQ-V4uec4/UXowkOZeriI/AAAAAAAAAL8/kH6RhlrwwO0/s640/Fun+de+Chichunne+2.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0wwQ-V4uec4/UXowkOZeriI/AAAAAAAAAL8/kH6RhlrwwO0/s1600/Fun+de+Chichunne+2.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]On-sighting Fun de Chichunne (photo by Simon Rawlinson).[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-V81M4fAumU8/UXowdAWHt3I/AAAAAAAAAL0/UftV9qY-sUE/s640/Fun+de+Chichunne+3.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-V81M4fAumU8/UXowdAWHt3I/AAAAAAAAAL0/UftV9qY-sUE/s1600/Fun+de+Chichunne+3.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Fun de Chichunne, Grande Grotta (photo by Simon Rawlinson).[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--bM8nS_5SRo/UXVljcqqPeI/AAAAAAAAALc/YSv1JJX9fko/s640/041.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/--bM8nS_5SRo/UXVljcqqPeI/AAAAAAAAALc/YSv1JJX9fko/s1600/041.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Sunset behind Telendos from our studio.[/td][/tr]
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Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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"School's Out!" (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2013/07/schools-out.html)
5 July 2013, 2:21 pm
Yes, we're all going on a summer holiday (to quote Cliff Richard from the 60's), although there hasn't been much to write about since our Kalymnos trip at Easter. This has been due to wet crags and a serious lack of outdoor climbing. Nobody down here can remember a winter and spring so bad. It's certainly the worst period of prolonged wet weather we've known in 14 years here. We were climbing at Val de Grimpe (the local climbing wall) even in the last weeks of June!
We only made it one day to Alex Meije's promising new crag near Escragnolles, three times to a wet Jurassic Park and twice to Mesa Verde before the end of term. Hardly enough to build on the fitness and psych after Kalymnos. Still, at last the weather has improved and the crags are dry (apart from Deverse). The only problem is it's virtually too hot to climb now! Just a slight problem!
We had an excellent soiree of Curry and real ales here to celebrate my birthday. Though we had way too much left over as some folks didn't make it. It was great to see Big Ben, Manu and baby Theo, Marie-Jo, Julien, Anna and Philip. A big thank you for coming and also for the excellent T-shirts and desserts.
Muse played in Nice during the last week of term. It was fantastic to see really talented musicians doing their stuff and the visual display was awesome, even though we were a long way from the front. They played all of The 2nd Law and super classics like Knights of Cydonia, Stockholm Syndrome, Uprising, Hysteria and so on.
Tomorrow we fly off to St Petersburg (thanks to a gift from a parent at our school). We'll be staying in a 5* hotel and be guided around the museums, operas and top restaurants. I'd really prefer to be out climbing and getting in shape but it's a chance of a lifetime, so I'm going to go along with the flow and make the most of it (and hopefully not eat too much good food!). Luckily, alcohol is not included, but everything else will be paid for!
When we return it'll be all systems grimpe (hopefully wherever it is going to be coolest). See ya.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fgiwlEUlTQg/Udba_rSVWYI/AAAAAAAAAM0/1RYN5XnxFFs/s640/009.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fgiwlEUlTQg/Udba_rSVWYI/AAAAAAAAAM0/1RYN5XnxFFs/s1600/009.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VIDUp89i2YU/UdbbCnUJK0I/AAAAAAAAAM8/uK_-B57UV6s/s640/010.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VIDUp89i2YU/UdbbCnUJK0I/AAAAAAAAAM8/uK_-B57UV6s/s1600/010.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3vCbD6TC76k/UdbbHxaQR9I/AAAAAAAAANE/mhWrxhSkXBc/s640/012.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3vCbD6TC76k/UdbbHxaQR9I/AAAAAAAAANE/mhWrxhSkXBc/s1600/012.jpg)
Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Every move counts (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2013/08/every-move-counts.html)
6 August 2013, 1:14 pm
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5AcNp56sQoI/UgC3VrxOPNI/AAAAAAAAANo/LMoyPuO18r0/s640/016.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5AcNp56sQoI/UgC3VrxOPNI/AAAAAAAAANo/LMoyPuO18r0/s1600/016.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XLtWMRbKC9s/UgC3gk6QDPI/AAAAAAAAANw/aqoa87XIWQY/s640/024.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XLtWMRbKC9s/UgC3gk6QDPI/AAAAAAAAANw/aqoa87XIWQY/s1600/024.jpg)The trip to St Petersburg was a gastronomic marathon and included lots of visits to palaces, churches and museums in between extravagant restaurants. Never before have we eaten so many massive meals. The highlight was the Restaurant Palkin on our last day, where liquid nitrogen was used to provide a cloud of gas on the table prior to serving the main dish and, later on, to make fresh ice cream in front of our eyes. I had a huge slab of bull flambe'd in 30 year old Noe. This course alone cost 4400 reubles (well over 100 euros!) so it's just as well everything was free! The trip was great fun and we learnt a great deal about the history of the city, although we did feel totally pogged out by the end.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vcHEiHHrTNk/UgC2rWUV5FI/AAAAAAAAANY/E8hxuajzgrI/s640/013.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vcHEiHHrTNk/UgC2rWUV5FI/AAAAAAAAANY/E8hxuajzgrI/s1600/013.jpg)
???
| (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u1ITxSZVZfo/UgC2wPLRVdI/AAAAAAAAANg/8FxMLcWmg-A/s640/020.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u1ITxSZVZfo/UgC2wPLRVdI/AAAAAAAAANg/8FxMLcWmg-A/s1600/020.jpg) |
The Restaurant Palkin, where Mougins School staff ate like kings!
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It was with relief that we headed off in the Cali to get back in shape. Or that's what we intended. However, it was really too hot and sweaty in the Tarn where it was impossible to do anything harder than 7b!! Disappointed we headed back to St Leger to meet up with Nathan Hoette and Heather Trevarthan (two young, hard core travelling climbers from Australia) who we spent some time with before going to Russia. Again, the heat put a stop to realising some great routes on redpoint. I have an ever growing list of projects there in need of finishing. Mind you the high temps didn't stop Pierre Delas from sending Leviathan (8b++) or Nathan from sending Les Amateurs des grosses essaims (8c). Demoralised after spending 4 days to send a 7b+ (during which Nathan told me "not to worry - every move counts") we packed up and headed home for a couple of days.
Next destination was the Ariege, specifically the Grotte de Sabart (where we last climbed some 10 years ago) hoping to find the cave nice and cool. Alas, t'was not to be, though we did arrive late the first day. I got shut down by the heat on El Chico and Como un tigre, with sweat pouring out of every pore. It was great to meet up with legend Stevie Haston in his local "habitat", trading tales and moaning about youth (or rather the lack of it, as far as we were concerned!). He has mellowed a lot since I last saw him in Wales probably in the 80's (possibly due to his very calm French wife Laurence and all the yoga they do). He is the perfect example of motivation and what you can do if you put in the effort. He is still super strong and probably the most motivated grand dad in the world! He is currently working a project that he reckons will take 3 to 5 months and will need careful attention to diet, resting and so on. How awesome is that? I'm sure it'll take him less time than that but, as Stevie said "Sabart ain't going away anywhere soon!". I hope we get chance to meet up again some time soon. We then spent some ace, stress-free days bouldering at Orlu (which has great circuits on super grippy granite) despite the 41 degrees C.
Back home, a day at Jurassic Park in the fantastic Gorges du Loup to see just how bad things were. The usual repertoire of great routes no problem, despite feeling like they were completed in a sauna! Ok, perhaps it does help a little knowing just exactly where every knee bar is, I suppose. Still, it was just pure pleasure to go climbing without dogging on the end of the rope for a change.
Which makes me think about the point of going away trying to climb in summer. We get 2 whole months off and it is almost impossible to climb at your limit in Europe. How frustrating is that?
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DcnE5qFE-4A/UgD0eNq9_xI/AAAAAAAAAOA/bqgeE3rfG8g/s640/029.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DcnE5qFE-4A/UgD0eNq9_xI/AAAAAAAAAOA/bqgeE3rfG8g/s1600/029.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]At the end of the day, Stevie Haston cooling down on Baby Sabart 7c+[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7bhyCrYrCPk/UgD0kNVvuQI/AAAAAAAAAOI/Z1iZoWBwix4/s640/035.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7bhyCrYrCPk/UgD0kNVvuQI/AAAAAAAAAOI/Z1iZoWBwix4/s1600/035.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Elaine on what we called Colin Binks' problem (5b) at Orlu.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WQjVbi6tio0/UgD0mAJq5KI/AAAAAAAAAOQ/YtKd5KCSN4w/s640/039.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-WQjVbi6tio0/UgD0mAJq5KI/AAAAAAAAAOQ/YtKd5KCSN4w/s1600/039.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Elaine again at Orlu.[/td][/tr]
[/table]Of course, it doesn't really matter how hot or how sweaty it is as long as you're having lots of fun. So, there you go. Until next time!
?[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UZlzz4GHarM/UgECf8ZcZnI/AAAAAAAAAOk/LYtTQ2V172s/s640/IMG_1654%255B1%255D.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UZlzz4GHarM/UgECf8ZcZnI/AAAAAAAAAOk/LYtTQ2V172s/s1600/IMG_1654%255B1%255D.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Hot and sweaty on El Chico (photo by Laurence Gouault Haston)[/td][/tr]
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Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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"Pass the gravy, please dear" (well that's what most folks do on Sunday's). (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2013/08/pass-gravy-please-dear-well-thats-what.html)
12 August 2013, 3:45 pm
We don't do roast dinners on Sunday's. In fact we don't do roast dinners any day. Firstly, we're never at home on Sunday's to make/eat one. Secondly, they tend to be very tasty but very heavy on the fat and carbs, so not too good for you. And thirdly, they are very expensive. Frankly, we'd rather spend the money on a new pair of rock shoes, or a new rope, or diesel in the tank to get to some new mega crag.
So, we didn't get to pass the gravy. Instead we were to be found playing at one of our favourite playgrounds, in other words Jurassic Park. We have been whiling away lots of time there over the past 14 years. Nowadays it is not "a la mode" and nobody else goes there. We tend to refer to it as "our cliff" and we look after it by replacing quick draws and chains, oiling stiff in-situ karabiners, cutting down vegetation and improving the path, etc. We've also been giving Cayenne the same loving treatment as well. This last week we've been out there 4 times, just enjoying climbing for climbings sake. Neither of us has done anything that we haven't done before, but it's been wonderful just to get the body moving and doing plenty of mileage, completely stress free.
Anyway, twice this week there have been visitors at our crag! Not "tourists" but locals. Word has spread that the crags are dry! John and Sheila Stark and Pierre and Marie Von Brizzi were all there yesterday, which led to a very pleasant, friendly atmosphere at the crag with the usual banter and trading of tales. However, I have become very proud of my new status as fashion icon. I jest not, John has answered to the call and gone for the cut off jeans look, too. It has taken a long time to convince anybody else (and it has been hard having to put up with taunts from the likes of Baz and Dunning!). So, now there are two of us happily wedging our knees in wherever possible without the rigmarole of knee pads or forking out lots of dosh. Finally, very well done to Sheila for sending the difficult and slippery Homo Sapince (7b).
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hAIahDYR8Kg/UgkA25jmfQI/AAAAAAAAAO0/UDALTWrg3j4/s640/001.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hAIahDYR8Kg/UgkA25jmfQI/AAAAAAAAAO0/UDALTWrg3j4/s1600/001.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Fashion icon Sponge Bob Square Pants![/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QEcmLQKAu7o/UgkA2aE3-8I/AAAAAAAAAOw/6elxDmu4IVY/s640/013.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QEcmLQKAu7o/UgkA2aE3-8I/AAAAAAAAAOw/6elxDmu4IVY/s1600/013.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Local prodigy "Strong Uncle John" wearing the new look![/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-v2Nz3Z3T_yU/UgkA-zVr3kI/AAAAAAAAAPA/zQNUu-5HPZg/s640/008.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-v2Nz3Z3T_yU/UgkA-zVr3kI/AAAAAAAAAPA/zQNUu-5HPZg/s1600/008.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]John warming up on the classic Homo Sapince (7b).[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fIzSPNdWeUM/UgkBK46uFPI/AAAAAAAAAPI/F6CrIlc8T64/s640/009.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fIzSPNdWeUM/UgkBK46uFPI/AAAAAAAAAPI/F6CrIlc8T64/s1600/009.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Strong Uncle John on the crux.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7ZsPrc2jiyA/UgkBL7SdlUI/AAAAAAAAAPQ/5wv0CXtsJws/s640/012.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7ZsPrc2jiyA/UgkBL7SdlUI/AAAAAAAAAPQ/5wv0CXtsJws/s1600/012.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]A rare look at the camera from Scamp.[/td][/tr]
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Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Great to be back home! (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2013/08/great-to-be-back-home.html)
27 August 2013, 7:42 pm
You have to admit that Britain has an awful lot going for it. Honest! The real ale is the best in the world. The curries are awesome. The climbing is fantastic (weather permitting, of course). And, as we recently reminded ourselves, the indoor climbing walls are brilliant!
The plan was to combine a family visit with some climbing. Shame it poured down just before we arrived, so the crags were soaked. Ewan wanted to go to Gordale, I fancied Kilnsey. We ended up at Malham thinking it would be drier. Now that is a place I used to know very well. However, it was bloody freezing and the crag was very, very wet. I used to cruise up many of the classics putting the draws in a long, long time ago. On a good day I could do Raindogs, Zoolook, Connect Four, New Dawn, Mescalito, Herbie and Obsession with no falls, placing all the clips (apart from Connect). That means three 8a's, two 7c+'s, one 7c and one 7b+. Of course that was only possible because I knew each route so well and having a workout day was always so much easier than trying Cry Freedom or Bat Route. Don't forget, I am pretty lazy at heart, so I have always tended to go for the easier option. Ok, this time the crag was very wet and it is over 14 years since I moved to France. The outcome was a dead cert: I got my arse kicked big time and I'd forgotten how to climb there; my fingers weren't strong enough and I found it so hard using little, polished footholds. No excuse, I was crap.
A change of plan was needed. Why bother trying to retro flash (or worse: dog then redpoint) routes from the past? Not to mention trying to cope with wet holds and polished footholds, etc. Yes, the easy option of course! Forget climbing outdoors and go inside. We came up with a list of walls to visit. However, we were so impressed with the excellent Climbing Hangar (in Liverpool) that we didn't get to the other walls. Maybe another time.
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kmmJc6JWuiw/Uh0AkmH3-wI/AAAAAAAAAPg/Et55hTT4VOo/s640/Climbing+Hangar+comp.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kmmJc6JWuiw/Uh0AkmH3-wI/AAAAAAAAAPg/Et55hTT4VOo/s1600/Climbing+Hangar+comp.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]We started climbing at 3pm. Then we did the comp, which started at 6pm. Arms finally gave up at 8.30pm! Came 15th overall (out of around 80). Photo by Steve Boote.[/td][/tr]
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Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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What do Steve Boote, The Climbing Hangar and The Bells! The Bells! have in common? (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2013/09/anyone-who-knows-steve-boote-knows-that.html)
1 September 2013, 3:24 pm
The climb described is John Redhead's famous scarry route The Bells! The Bells! (E7 6b) on Anglesey's North Stack Wall.
Anyone who knows Steve Boote knows that he's great fun and always good for a wind up. It started at The Climbing Hangar. He encouraged us to join him in the last bouldering comp. We'd been there 3 hours already and were pretty tired. He was fresh. However, he didn't spend his time there just climbing, he was busy having a laugh behind my back and bigging up my reputation, particularly my 3rd ascent of The Bells! The Bells! way back in 1990. As we were leaving, one of the climbing coaches (Mike) said "You're Mike Owen, didn't you do the 3rd ascent of The Bells! The Bells?" (or words similar to that). We had a nice chat about the routes on North Stack and the fact that Bootie had been spreading the word.
When we next went to The Hangar, the word had spread further (much to my surprise) and one of the young lads behind the counter said "You're Mike Owen..........." Infact he then asked for my autograph (saying it was for Mike). Well, I couldn't refuse, could I?
The story really begins even further back in time. Way back in 1983, to be a bit more precise. Andy Pollitt and I come from the same area of North Wales and got to know each other through climbing at our local crag, Craig y Forwyn, in the late 70's. In 1983, he stayed with us for 3 months as he worked with me at Black's in Liverpool. We used to talk for hours about climbing, trading tales and sharing wish lists, and so on. We'd both done The Cad that same year, so obviously we sowed the first seeds about doing The Bells! The Bells! which was first climbed by the talented and very brave John Redhead. At that time it was probably the most dangerous route in Britain. Still, Andy and I were both young and we had high aspirations.
Andy moved to Sheffield and became one of the first professional climbers, making phenomenal new routes in the Peak and back in Wales. He went on to make the coveted 2nd ascent of John's death route test piece in 1986. I have his signature on the Berghaus poster from the time in the cave downstairs (next to Phil Davidson soloing Right Wall in 1984). It took me a few years longer to realise my dream.
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ELyGYPV-KLA/UiNJXCEoAdI/AAAAAAAAAPw/THUUi_U7M8c/s640/021.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ELyGYPV-KLA/UiNJXCEoAdI/AAAAAAAAAPw/THUUi_U7M8c/s1600/021.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The Berghaus poster showing Andy Pollitt making the coveted 2nd ascent of The Bells! The Bells! in 1986 (Andy's faded signature is down right from his right hand).[/td][/tr]
[/table]June 1990: Twid and I were onsighting E6's and E7's in Wales and we had both done a few 8a sport routes by then. So we were pretty fit and still young enough to be brave. We were working our way through the North Stack routes and both of us had eyes on doing The Bells! The Bells. I couldn't believe nobody had done it since Andy. I finished my degree and had time to climb before entering the teaching profession. Twid got busier with guiding and had less time. So, it was there for the taking, if only I was up to the challenge.
Graham George and I abbed down North Stack Wall on a reasonable busy day and I set of on-sight. To be honest, things didn't feel right. I remember finding the start (in common with The Cad) harder than it should have been. At the end of the first traverse I placed a small offset HB2 which was basically the only thing between me and the floor. After several half hearted attempts to commit myself to the moves leading to John's 10 year old peg I called for a toprope which, thankfully, arrived pretty quickly. I cursed myself for being a wimp as the move seemed ok, albeit with protection from above. However, I found the (wrong) sequence going rightwards from the peg desperate and covered in "grandfather's whiskers" vegetation so typical at Gogarth. It was a very empty feeling I had at the top. Ok, I'd climbed The Bells! The Bells! but hadn't actually led it on the sharp end of the rope. To tell the truth I was gutted even though I had underestimated the severity of the challenge. Still, Graham was well chuffed to follow, which he did impeccably. I returned, much better prepared, next weekend but I was still concerned about the moves right from the peg.
Saturday 9th June 1990. There was a lot of moisture in the air and the sky was grey. Still I was ready, the time had come to either realise my dream or die on the jagged boulders at the foot of the cliff. I abseiled down The Bells! to brush off the vegetation and to tie off the peg, which was in a pretty sorry state after ten years of weathering. I was shocked when I saw a line of finger incuts going directly above the peg. This was the obvious sequence to gain the second traverse where, later on again, I was shocked to find a bomber Hex 4 placement just to the left whilst doing The Hollow Man with Phil Ralph!
There was nobody there at all, just Elaine and me. Therefore no chance of a top rope this time. The boulders were slippery and it was very still and quiet. It was do or die. So I set off up the start of The Cad, traversed right to a good foothold and put the HB2 in again. Without hesitating, I committed myself into serious terrain, where it was up to me alone to see this thing through to the end, come what may! I dared not look at the tied off peg as I followed the line of incuts up to the start of the second traverse. There is a shield of rock there where I spent ages trying to get in some dodgy rp's and a tape sling over the top. The seriousness of my position was gnawing away at my concentration (if only I'd known that Hex 4 was nearby!). I have never been so totally frightened in all my years climbing, as I was from that shield onwards. I seemed to be looking down at myself tiptoeing across, with the ropes trailing uselessly down to the left of me. By the time I gained the shallow groove that led to the top I was almost completely spent and there was no meaningful gear to stop me decking out from about 150 feet. There was a nasty sting in the tail: on the last difficult move I felt a tiny foothold break off as I delicately weighted it. For a moment I swear that I thought I was going to fall to my death. At this point, Elaine was well aware of the mess I was in and was weighing up her possible options to run over the slippery boulders in an attempt to take in the slack if I fell. She told me afterwards that she realised there was nothing she could have done! Somehow, I told myself to calm down and test with my foot to see if there was enough left to stand up on. I crawled over the top and just lay there, utterly spent and sobbing as it all sank in. After a long time, I set up an abseil to strip the gear. You should have seen the smile on my face by the time I got down to Elaine. And I've been wearing it ever since!
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NRALTLdRjDA/UiNYpsOJLDI/AAAAAAAAAQA/FzMZW1kPbuw/s640/Mike+on+the+3rd+ascent+of+The+Hollow+Man,+June+90.bmp) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-NRALTLdRjDA/UiNYpsOJLDI/AAAAAAAAAQA/FzMZW1kPbuw/s1600/Mike+on+the+3rd+ascent+of+The+Hollow+Man,+June+90.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The incuts above the peg that lead to the second traverse. This section of The Bells! is shared with The Hollow Man, a harder but safer direct version first climbed by Andy Pollitt. Elaine took this photo (from an abseil rope) of me making the 3rd ascent on 17/6/90. This photo became a DMM poster seen in shops.
At the time I was testing gear for DMM, hence the Mammut harness, Mammut ropes, La Sportiva shoes, DMM chalk bag, nuts, quickdraws and the shoddy La Sportiva tights![/td][/tr]
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Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Imagine my surprise. (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2013/09/imagine-my-surprise.html)
13 September 2013, 4:24 pm
Imagine my surprise.
You see, there I was dozing in bed one Sunday morning, back in late 1998, and Elaine shrieked "I know what we can do" and sat up full of enthusiasm. Obviously, that put a smile of optimism on my face, but then she announced that she had a plan. "Oh" said I. As the plan was explained, I sat up and nodded along in agreement.
But it was a brilliant plan! Put simply, it was a ticket to another life. A life far removed from the dismal wet, cold weather and an end to teaching in Britain. It involved staying in Antibes over Christmas and buying a caravan. Said caravan would be rented out and joined by a second caravan, then a third, and so on. But, it would take time. After perhaps five years, it would be possible to move down to the sunny south of France and live in one of them. Voila!
Ok, we came out with Eddie and Mandy and discovered La Turbie, Castillon and Le Gorges du Loup. Not surprisingly, we fell in love with the place (despite finding the climbing grades quite tough). We bought our first caravan that Christmas and the second the following Easter, both in a lovely campsite in Pont du Loup, with a spectacular view of Le Bar sur Loup, Gourdon and the Gorge.
After returning home from our Easter trip, it rained for days. This was too much for my poor dear wife. Eventually, she couldn't stand it any longer. She announced: "F... waiting five years, let's go this year!" I was stunned, as my very sensible wife is not normally a person to make hasty decisions. I didn't hesitate of course. Well, who would? I quickly agreed with her, before she changed her mind!
Amazingly, we sold our house very quickly and quit our jobs. I had it all planned out in my mind: move out, live in a caravan and go climbing, then climbing the next day and the day after......... Heaven!
And then I got a job and I didn't get to go climbing every day. And Elaine also got work.
We sold the two caravans, moved into an apartment in Le Bar sur Loup and bought our house within 18 months of arriving in France. But it's not been so bad. We chose a great place to live, the weather is fantastic, the scenery amazing and we get to climb all year round. The climbing is brilliant.
Here are some tasters from this week:[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ck-K8pK1e0o/UjM5iH3PlYI/AAAAAAAAAQY/kRBkfQQT9fw/s640/004.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ck-K8pK1e0o/UjM5iH3PlYI/AAAAAAAAAQY/kRBkfQQT9fw/s1600/004.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Robin on a 7c+ at St Cezaire[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_wgSs8ZObNg/UjM5pACzViI/AAAAAAAAAQg/f_P4tlIhg0s/s640/015.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_wgSs8ZObNg/UjM5pACzViI/AAAAAAAAAQg/f_P4tlIhg0s/s1600/015.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Ced on Hot Chilli Beans Volcano (8b+) at Deverse[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-o0766QRfRb8/UjM5rsolFmI/AAAAAAAAAQo/Bk60mRfcGXM/s640/018.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-o0766QRfRb8/UjM5rsolFmI/AAAAAAAAAQo/Bk60mRfcGXM/s1600/018.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Kev on Hot Chilli[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-duZLzCRwoQA/UjM5vq7KIpI/AAAAAAAAAQw/WhgZopWyTnk/s640/007.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-duZLzCRwoQA/UjM5vq7KIpI/AAAAAAAAAQw/WhgZopWyTnk/s1600/007.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The classic Deverse Satanic, 8a[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i289lmLSfDU/UjM6DD6t0pI/AAAAAAAAAQ4/oEqB34CMiF4/s640/012.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-i289lmLSfDU/UjM6DD6t0pI/AAAAAAAAAQ4/oEqB34CMiF4/s1600/012.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Ced warming up on Mecanik (7c)[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-S9MiXgag6z0/UjM6DXB5gKI/AAAAAAAAAQ8/4aNP4Ebrm2I/s640/019.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-S9MiXgag6z0/UjM6DXB5gKI/AAAAAAAAAQ8/4aNP4Ebrm2I/s1600/019.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Seb Boin on PuntX (9a)[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ugSzpK78TCw/UjM5UPh75oI/AAAAAAAAAQQ/KkbXseTqcmE/s640/005.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ugSzpK78TCw/UjM5UPh75oI/AAAAAAAAAQQ/KkbXseTqcmE/s1600/005.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Franco on L'ethique du tacquet (7c+) at St Cezaire[/td][/tr]
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Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Just an obsessive, compulsive punter really. (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2013/09/im-just-punter-really.html)
15 September 2013, 5:52 pm
I'm just a punter really. A punter suffering from OCD and bordering on autistic, I suspect. Perhaps that explains my complete lack of interest in team games and activities, including my job where I'm happy in my classroom but loathe both the staff room and meetings. Though I do like watching football, surprisingly.
Being crap in PE at school, it is surprising to think that it was my PE teacher who got me into climbing. Although I was good enough in the gym, I can remember sitting out many rugby and football lessons, though I can't now remember why. The PE teacher was Eric Howells, who had been a very good climber. He'd done stuff like Vector in the sixties and had climbed in the Dolomites. He was still young but had packed it in as he began to settle down into ordinary life. I can remember flicking through some climbing book in the changing room, whilst most of the other kids were out in the mud and thinking that climbing looked much more like fun. Soon enough, I was hooked. My school mate John Roberts had been on a course at Plas y Brenin and could tie knots and belay. Eric Howells lent us the gear and we went out and taught ourselves how to climb on Capel Pinnacles and Idwal Slabs. Could you imagine any sensible teacher today doing such a thing? Imagine what could happen to somebodies career.
The OCD has been my best friend for the 40 years I've been climbing here, there and everywhere. You see, there have always been far better climbers than me. More talented and much stronger. However, over the years my obsessive nature has helped me remember the intricate sequences of so many climbs and by simply sticking at it I've had so much fun. Nige Hunt would say "Never go down"! In other words don't give in (especially when the going gets tough).
John and I worked our way through the grades, getting more and more confident, though John was much better than me. However, John's aspirations seemed to reach a plateau, whereas I wanted to keep on pushing, even though sometimes the outcome was a close run thing. We eventually went our own ways.
Trad climbing basically means climbing on sight without falling, as the gear is often very dodgy and a fall could be serious. However, sport climbing involves falling off lots (until you are able to link all the moves without falling), though it is safe because the gear is in situ bolts. This in turn means that you can do much harder climbs, with practice. Tim Lowe introduced me to sport climbing in 1987 at Malham. A whole new concept of dogging moves and repeated falls opened up new horizons. At that time Obsession and New Dawn involved me investing several days of effort before success was achieved. But it was a step up the ladder. Seeing people like John Dunne, Yorkie, Mick Lovatt and Ian Horrocks at work on their chosen projects was fascinating. I knew I'd done harder trad stuff, but they had the edge when it came down to redpointing. It took me a while to realise that they just stuck at it and "never went down".
However, there is a fine line between going on something that is achievable and something way beyond your ability. Though, when you start piecing together your chosen project you don't always know for sure. In March 1993, Glenn Sutcliffe, Keefe Murphy and I started working The Austrian Oak at Malham. Glenn was in the GB team at that time and very strong. He sent the route pretty quickly. Keefe got very close, but for some reason left it and eventually did it much later. I had to build a replica on my board and spent 13 very stressful days falling off before I wobbled my way to the chain! After 3 days it would have been easy to give up (and that's now the time I'm prepared to spend on a route, unless it is something special). However, I did stick at it and eventually got the job done, although I was much happier doing my next project (Predator) in only 2 days.
Since moving down here, I've taken on some hefty challenges. Memorable, lengthy sieges have seen me eventually clip the chains on Mortal Kombat and Barjoland (both 8b at Castillon). However, I invested a lot of time on Soul Sacrifice (8b, Deverse) and Souffle du Vizir (8b+, Peillon) only to never get the job done. I actually did Souffle du Vizir 3 times with only 1 fall on the pockets near the start, getting back on and going all the way to the top. Perhaps I should have lowered down and tried again. Who knows? It becomes hard for me to keep trying the same climb for too long, despite the possibility that the next go could be the one that counts.
So, it seems that being obsessive is great up to a point, but being compulsive can be a hindrance. In other words it is good sticking at it but sooner or later the desire to do something different takes over.
Well done to Pete Chadwick for sticking at getting the job done on Predator, despite falling off well above the hardest climbing several times and having to endure Eddie's comment of "You'd have to be an idiot to fall off there!". And good luck to him settling the score on The Oak. Stick at it mate and never go down!
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wWZavklA-4M/UjXzRLgLDrI/AAAAAAAAARQ/yGE-2YpKsLg/s640/Pete+Chadwick+on+Predator.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wWZavklA-4M/UjXzRLgLDrI/AAAAAAAAARQ/yGE-2YpKsLg/s1600/Pete+Chadwick+on+Predator.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Pete Chadwick sticking at it on Predator[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-k1VlgO98d-M/Uja6d5oFBkI/AAAAAAAAARo/h9GbsiFx8z0/s640/mikeMortal1.gif) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-k1VlgO98d-M/Uja6d5oFBkI/AAAAAAAAARo/h9GbsiFx8z0/s1600/mikeMortal1.gif)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Sticking at it on Mortal Kombat, a dream come true in 2005. No my left foot is not on the bolt. Photo by Phil Maurel,[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yUXgY_IwGPg/UjXzUVx9uLI/AAAAAAAAARY/_rH-QxsxcGI/s640/Austrian+Oak+2.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-yUXgY_IwGPg/UjXzUVx9uLI/AAAAAAAAARY/_rH-QxsxcGI/s1600/Austrian+Oak+2.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Simon Lee on the difficult start of The Austrian Oak[/td][/tr]
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Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Great post! The "don't give in" mentallity is an important one to have.
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Great blogging keep it up :2thumbsup:
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Don't mention the "K" word, thank you very much! (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2013/10/dont-mention-k-word-thank-you-very-much.html)
4 October 2013, 3:30 pm
It's about this time of year that my smug mate, Chris Craggs, posts on Facebook that he's booked his trip to Kalymnos. Now Chris is very, very lucky because he is a retired teacher (though, even luckier (jammy b.....d), he managed to get out well before retirement age!) and he can now travel around the world climbing wherever, whenever. So, around October/November he heads across to the climber's island paradise Kalymnos for a month, two months, or as long as he and Sherri fancy going for. He posted some time during the last week! Mmmmmm.
Last Saturday, at the excellent and quiet "Le Discret", Alex (also smug) Zuttre casually mentioned that he was going to Kalymnos for 2 weeks. He flies tomorrow from Milan Bergamo (closest airport to here with flights to Kos) via Ryanair for peanuts, because he can go outside school holiday time. We have a week holiday from the 26th of October, so I looked at flights from Bergamo. Elaine and I can get to Kos for less than 35 euros for both of us. The problem is that Ryanair flights finish at the end of October, so we wouldn't be able to make it back. I haven't worked up the courage (yet) to tell my fantastic boss that we've got no option but to spend the entire winter out on Kalymnos, just climbing!
Anyway, here is a special photo for you Alex. Bon grimpe!
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ptoCONwqPbs/Uk7Z8ZQcPYI/AAAAAAAAAR4/qZDphUueHzM/s640/Aegialis.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ptoCONwqPbs/Uk7Z8ZQcPYI/AAAAAAAAAR4/qZDphUueHzM/s1600/Aegialis.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The fantastic Aegialis (7c) at the Grande Grotta, Kalymnos. Just who in their right mind would prefer to be working?[/td][/tr]
[/table]Changing the subject (only slightly - remember I am obsessed). It's been good to go to some different crags lately. Even Fatman and Robin have made another return. They have been seen on "Oeuvre Complete" at La Turbie, secteur Jacob. This is a 50m long stamina fest with the crux right at the top. It gets a very stiff 7c+ grade, which is very frustrating when you blow it way up there! Great to do "Vent du Terre" in a day (also 7c+) at Le Discret last Saturday. The plan is to go back for "Hilti Base Jump" (8a/8a+) tomorrow. However, the forecast is for rain most of the weekend.
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m4prp99h2YY/Uk7c4LTCuCI/AAAAAAAAASE/u_2a_bsD-3o/s640/002.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-m4prp99h2YY/Uk7c4LTCuCI/AAAAAAAAASE/u_2a_bsD-3o/s1600/002.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]You can be easily distracted whilst your mate works a 50 metre route. Fatman belayng whilst Robin tussles with "Oeuvre Complete" at secteur Jacob on Tuesday.[/td][/tr]
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When did it last rain? Correct, last Sunday, then the Sunday before that and the Sunday before that as well. Why does it always choose to rain at the weekend? Have a nice weekend everybody.
Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Climbing outdoors is my favourite waste of time. (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2013/10/climbing-outdoors-is-my-favourite-waste.html)
11 October 2013, 3:49 pm
Climbing outdoors is my favourite waste of time. Some people would say that it is completely pointless; you don't "win" or improve your "best time" or "score" and everybody thinks you must be "mad" and have a "death wish"! Most people simply don't understand. I suppose I can't blame them really; F1 is utter rubbish to me. Luckily, we're all different.
Climbing is so great because you get to visit beautiful places for free; meet like-minded, calm people from all round the world; you can get mega fit and it is very relaxing for the soul. An extra bonus is the complete lack of rules and regulations that makes it the perfect antidote to normal, everyday life. Quite simply, it puts everything else into perspective (everything else is just "grains of sand"). All that mindless rushing around we do each day is the real waste of time.
Robin and I went back to La Turbie to while away Tuesday afternoon. We were psyched to hurl ourselves at the unfinished route from the week before. The weather was superb, despite the forecast. Once again the warm up from hell was desperate. Monte Queue is a very polished sand bag 6c+. Robin has it well dialled and he is taller than me, which makes the crux section easier for sure. He despatched it effortlessly, whilst I had to fight and pull out all the stops to hang on (especially as my feet shot off twice!).
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6xUXS0Uv0Fs/UlgZtxtA1OI/AAAAAAAAAS8/u92dLry_l8w/s640/001+%25282%2529.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6xUXS0Uv0Fs/UlgZtxtA1OI/AAAAAAAAAS8/u92dLry_l8w/s1600/001+%25282%2529.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Robin demolishing the warm up from hell![/td][/tr]
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(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rRDwRX3S8KE/UlgZveIhoAI/AAAAAAAAATE/dA5wwc-csjs/s640/003.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rRDwRX3S8KE/UlgZveIhoAI/AAAAAAAAATE/dA5wwc-csjs/s1600/003.jpg)
Then it was back to the serious business of trying to finish "Oeuvre Complete" (after the pumped forearms had recovered enough). Robin should have done it. He fell off the last move, due to a dodgy barn door sequence that he had to refine. Me? Well I fell off much lower, but I did make some good progress.
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-N9HODjloB9Q/UlgafBXILkI/AAAAAAAAATM/5cRgFvZQTJM/s640/006.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-N9HODjloB9Q/UlgafBXILkI/AAAAAAAAATM/5cRgFvZQTJM/s1600/006.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Robin on Oeuvre Complete (he is less than half way up this 50m monster!).[/td][/tr]
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So, we left the crag with our bodies having taken another battering but we'd had another great time, even though we didn't achieve success this time round. We'll be back there again next Tuesday. Who knows, we may just pull it out the bag! That's what makes you keep going back for more.
Elaine and I had a very entertaining afternoon at Jurassic Park last Sunday. It was quite challenging doing my favourite 8a+ in a mega thunder storm! We spent Wednesday afternoon struggling with very humid conditions at Mesa Verde. But it was so much better than just staying at home or going shopping.
We didn't get to Le Discret last Saturday. I had a cold and the weather was too iffy. But we're going tomorrow to have some more fun times. Bon weekend amigos!
Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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"Don't waste October" (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2013/11/dont-waste-october.html)
5 November 2013, 3:32 pm
Way back in July, as we were moaning about the hot temperature, Stevie said "There's always October, don't waste October". Usually it is a great month for getting some great climbing done as the temperature is prefect.
Unfortunately this year it came and passed in a blur. It's just been a rather tricky period that has left us both really pretty tired out and we haven't been able to get much quality time on the rock.
Here are some photos from Les Pistones secteur in the Gorges du Loup.[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-T-hEd1IzZEY/UnkJeC9e9gI/AAAAAAAAATY/NcvpBB9Z7Io/s640/231.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-T-hEd1IzZEY/UnkJeC9e9gI/AAAAAAAAATY/NcvpBB9Z7Io/s1600/231.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Nico Lesage warming up on a 6a[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aFSadapW-Oc/UnkJ3BFiu3I/AAAAAAAAATw/VPFnvjGeyMc/s640/239.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aFSadapW-Oc/UnkJ3BFiu3I/AAAAAAAAATw/VPFnvjGeyMc/s1600/239.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Fabien Bartez on a 7a+[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8KZ7ndf9ZB8/UnkJ0kR8FQI/AAAAAAAAATo/oJ3mqhXHV8g/s640/250.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8KZ7ndf9ZB8/UnkJ0kR8FQI/AAAAAAAAATo/oJ3mqhXHV8g/s1600/250.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]A superb 7c[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4gmbn4kdI2U/UnkJpx2tUUI/AAAAAAAAATg/h4o2uhdRkzo/s640/234.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4gmbn4kdI2U/UnkJpx2tUUI/AAAAAAAAATg/h4o2uhdRkzo/s1600/234.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Nico on-sighting the classic 7a+ (version longue) not long after finger surgery. Bravo gar![/td][/tr]
[/table]We just returned from a week at St Leger, where I was hoping to settle the score on some unfinished routes. Unfortunately all the tufa routes at La Baleine were soaked. Never mind, they will still be there for another time.
Today, I accidently knocked off the handbrake whilst hoovering out the Cali, it rolled and hit the garage wall. As a result, the passenger door now needs a re-spray. Marvellous, bloody marvellous!
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ogkJnuwmMR0/UnkLjwpvh_I/AAAAAAAAAUE/jc5Hkk9j1Ns/s640/012.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ogkJnuwmMR0/UnkLjwpvh_I/AAAAAAAAAUE/jc5Hkk9j1Ns/s1600/012.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]"De la houle, du grain (et des essais)" a really hard 7c that took me 2 whole days!![/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Q0sbPc-g7Zs/UnkLsXUkQ2I/AAAAAAAAAUU/AH_uLu2c8RY/s640/015.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Q0sbPc-g7Zs/UnkLsXUkQ2I/AAAAAAAAAUU/AH_uLu2c8RY/s1600/015.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]A Spanish climber on "Le chant de baleine", a tricky 7c+ that spits you off right at the top at least once![/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-APgVDl7P-xE/UnkLY2fwh9I/AAAAAAAAAT8/w8hou843-2A/s640/St+Leger.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-APgVDl7P-xE/UnkLY2fwh9I/AAAAAAAAAT8/w8hou843-2A/s1600/St+Leger.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]An old photo from 3 years ago showing "Le concierge et dans le parking", an ace 7c+[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tEkgfucEhlw/UnkLoqvtjwI/AAAAAAAAAUM/jBj9o6ZwuDo/s640/011.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tEkgfucEhlw/UnkLoqvtjwI/AAAAAAAAAUM/jBj9o6ZwuDo/s1600/011.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Tired, sore hands. That split skin in the joints is always so painful!
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Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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There was nobody there at all, just Elaine and me. Therefore no chance of a top rope this time. The boulders were slippery and it was very still and quiet. It was do or die. So I set off up the start of The Cad, traversed right to a good foothold and put the HB2 in again. Without hesitating, I committed myself into serious terrain, where it was up to me alone to see this thing through to the end, come what may! I dared not look at the tied off peg as I followed the line of incuts up to the start of the second traverse. There is a shield of rock there where I spent ages trying to get in some dodgy rp's and a tape sling over the top. The seriousness of my position was gnawing away at my concentration (if only I'd known that Hex 4 was nearby!). I have never been so totally frightened in all my years climbing, as I was from that shield onwards. I seemed to be looking down at myself tiptoeing across, with the ropes trailing uselessly down to the left of me. By the time I gained the shallow groove that led to the top I was almost completely spent and there was no meaningful gear to stop me decking out from about 150 feet. There was a nasty sting in the tail: on the last difficult move I felt a tiny foothold break off as I delicately weighted it. For a moment I swear that I thought I was going to fall to my death. At this point, Elaine was well aware of the mess I was in and was weighing up her possible options to run over the slippery boulders in an attempt to take in the slack if I fell. She told me afterwards that she realised there was nothing she could have done! Somehow, I told myself to calm down and test with my foot to see if there was enough left to stand up on. I crawled over the top and just lay there, utterly spent and sobbing as it all sank in. After a long time, I set up an abseil to strip the gear. You should have seen the smile on my face by the time I got down to Elaine. And I've been wearing it ever since!
Oh my..... :ohmy:
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Loud and proud! (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2013/11/loud-and-proud.html)
12 November 2013, 1:02 pm
You'd hear a load roar as a super bike arrived at the car park at the top of Pex Hill. A tall, slim figure clad in black motor cycle leathers, would step through a gap in the railings and announce his arrival by letting out a humongous belch. Every head would turn to look at him as he nonchalantly down soloed The Dateline, a tricky 5c finger crack. Of course, I'm talkng about the legendary Phil Davidson.
On another occasion, we were walking down the main street in Llandudno, when I felt an urge to burp. I let it out loud and proud. Phil was suitably impressed, but only until I apologised to the two appalled ladies walking towards us, after which he was very un-impressed!
I first met Phil in the glorious summer of 1976. There was a heat wave that summer and water was rationed. But, more importantly, the crags in Wales were all dry and the routes were all for the taking. John Roberts, Pete White, Brian Jones and I were regulars at Humphrey's Barn in Nant Peris. We used to spend Saturday nights there after a great day's climbing and a lot of beer in The Padarn in Llanberis. Phil used to turn up with his equally talented climbing partner, Gaz Healey. We used to call them the "Psychos" because they did such outrageous climbs. Other regulars at Humphrey's were Andy Sharp and Steve Lewis from South Wales and Mike Griffiths and Sandy Dobie, like us from North Wales.
Our paths crossed many times on the crags. Phil quickly worked his way through all the classic hard routes and made a name for himself when he did the 5th ascent of Right Wall in 1977 with absolute ease. From that moment he become well known for making incredible on sight ascents and amazing solos. (When Phil soloed Right Wall, in 1984, he hadn't done it during the intervening 7 years!)
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y_v28X6jb3M/UoIlP0eeARI/AAAAAAAAAUk/37mUtUpJclA/s640/001+(2).jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Y_v28X6jb3M/UoIlP0eeARI/AAAAAAAAAUk/37mUtUpJclA/s1600/001+(2).jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Phil Davidson soloing Right Wall in 1984[/td][/tr]
[/table]I got to know Phil really well, when Elaine and I moved to the St Helens area in 1980. We become good friends and we climbed together for a few years. My favourite memory goes like this:
Elaine and I had just returned from a two week holiday in Corfu in 1982. That night we just happened to tune into Ron Fawcett climbing "Sardine" at Raven Tor. As soon as it was finished, the phone rang. I new instinctively that it was Phil and that he wanted to go and do "Sardine" the next day! Sure enough, it was him on the other end of the line and he confirmed my dreadful suspicion. He walked up it and I was dragged up it. He was too busy chatting away with Jerry Moffatt to notice that he lowered me (wearing shorts) into the nettles that used to be at the foot of the crag.
Between 1982 and 1984, Phil was probably one of the best climbers in the world. He was one of the first climbers to look carefully at his diet and used to eat a couple of tomatoes, whilst we'd tuck into fish and chips on the way home from the crag. Secretly, he used to do loads of sit ups, press ups and pull ups and was the most supple person I have ever known. (I wonder if he can still do the box splits or stand against a wall and touch the wall above his head with his toes on one foot?) As a result, he had an incredible physique that we all envied!
Then Phil just quit climbing when he went to I M Marsh College to become a teacher in 1984. He applied the same dedication to white water canoeing and developed a great reputation for his daring. Later on he became an accomplished saxophone player and more recently took up clay pigeon shooting of all things!
Phil did make a good comeback for a brief spell in 1990. The sport had changed in the intervening six years. Everybody was sport climbing; dogging and rehearsing moves. He ticked most of the classic 7c's and 7c+'s at Malham, Kilnsey and Gordale. But he tried desperately to finish Zoolook, but kept forgetting the exact sequence necessary to achieve success.
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SPXG3psuUUI/UoIljIUfXaI/AAAAAAAAAUs/-zxjuYuImN4/s640/ducati-900-supersport.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-SPXG3psuUUI/UoIljIUfXaI/AAAAAAAAAUs/-zxjuYuImN4/s1600/ducati-900-supersport.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Phil's pride and joy, a Ducati 900SS[/td][/tr]
[/table]Phil has always been into motor bikes and has been the lucky owner of all sorts over the years. His gleaming Ducati 900SS used to be kept in his parents back entrance hall until he finally got his own house. His helmet and leathers matched the black and gold on the bike. I remember the sides of his motor cycle boots were worn down from low cornering and the soles were held on with red duct tape!
Phil still skis immaculately, canoes horrendous rivers in flood, plays his sax and is sometimes seen climbing too. And he'll be doing them all loud and proud. Good on yer, mate!
Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Great stuff! Thanks Mike...
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Brilliant, more like this please!
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The good news and the bad news (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2013/11/the-good-news-and-bad-news.html)
30 November 2013, 1:25 pm
Not much happening at the moment. It's a damp and cold day here today. It should be nice and sunny again tomorrow, so we're sitting tight waiting for then. No training and not going to climb indoors either.
Here's a couple of photos of Hardin climbing at Chouchou Place last Sunday:
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zgeTSx-vJ2E/UpnfAW5CTFI/AAAAAAAAAU8/OP7qLu6LBFc/s640/007.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zgeTSx-vJ2E/UpnfAW5CTFI/AAAAAAAAAU8/OP7qLu6LBFc/s1600/007.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1JlP8g6wqHE/UpnfKe3J0XI/AAAAAAAAAVE/jKu1kAj_bkY/s640/008.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1JlP8g6wqHE/UpnfKe3J0XI/AAAAAAAAAVE/jKu1kAj_bkY/s1600/008.jpg)
The bad news:
The infection in my root canal has returned with a vengeance. It probably explains why i'm so seriously tired these days. I had the confirmation from a new dentist yesterday (recommended by Marie-Jo). Tuesday next I should find out what he is going to do. He has said it needs to be taken out but there may be further complications and maybe another operation to clean it all out again.
The good news:
We asked our head for a year out. He said OK. So we're looking forward to some cool travelling and climbing next year. Brilliant! 20 years ago, we were on our last year out climbing in the USA.
Here's some photos from that trip:
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PrAg9rz_3M0/UpnhOR23qwI/AAAAAAAAAVQ/P2FmLOCJ9Ss/s640/Ascent+of+Man.bmp) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PrAg9rz_3M0/UpnhOR23qwI/AAAAAAAAAVQ/P2FmLOCJ9Ss/s1600/Ascent+of+Man.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Ascent of man, 7c+ 1st redpoint, Virgen River Gorge in December, brrr![/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UGhtW1n01Go/UpnhvCQmlWI/AAAAAAAAAVg/X81BIVKpkvs/s640/Elaine,+Red+Rocks+1.bmp) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UGhtW1n01Go/UpnhvCQmlWI/AAAAAAAAAVg/X81BIVKpkvs/s1600/Elaine,+Red+Rocks+1.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Yaak attack, Red Rocks, also in December![/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-02gHDw27C9M/Upnhtyn-knI/AAAAAAAAAVY/61uKvVYWjRQ/s640/Marla's+place+at+Smith+Rock.bmp) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-02gHDw27C9M/Upnhtyn-knI/AAAAAAAAAVY/61uKvVYWjRQ/s1600/Marla's+place+at+Smith+Rock.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Marla's house at Smith Rocks, where we stayed for 3 weeks in September.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BzOZJLblGPY/Upnh9W94wrI/AAAAAAAAAVo/VrYtdYKGyQs/s640/Elaine+and+TM+at+the+Pie+Shop,+Nov+93.bmp) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-BzOZJLblGPY/Upnh9W94wrI/AAAAAAAAAVo/VrYtdYKGyQs/s1600/Elaine+and+TM+at+the+Pie+Shop,+Nov+93.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Elaine and TM Herbert at "The Pie Shop" in late October.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xBwN7omHZuc/Upniicsq8-I/AAAAAAAAAV4/UNeq3ziReKc/s640/Mike+Sissy+Traverse,+Dec+93.bmp) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xBwN7omHZuc/Upniicsq8-I/AAAAAAAAAV4/UNeq3ziReKc/s1600/Mike+Sissy+Traverse,+Dec+93.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Sissy Traverse (8a) took quite a bit of effort and quite a few goes to do. Red Rocks.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VD9mIdDTrYE/UpniehPq0TI/AAAAAAAAAVw/juZwk9jfErg/s640/Mike,+Aggro+Monkey+2,+Sept+93.bmp) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VD9mIdDTrYE/UpniehPq0TI/AAAAAAAAAVw/juZwk9jfErg/s1600/Mike,+Aggro+Monkey+2,+Sept+93.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Aggro Monkey (8a) 1st redpoint. Smith Rocks in September.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pmnHmNRkRs8/UpnithbybiI/AAAAAAAAAWA/I6ueeDNTwq8/s640/Mike,+Jailhouse+Rock+3.bmp) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pmnHmNRkRs8/UpnithbybiI/AAAAAAAAAWA/I6ueeDNTwq8/s1600/Mike,+Jailhouse+Rock+3.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]My favourite US crag, Jailhouse Rock. Not sure what the route is though.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tzsFy_cZszc/UpnjL9Oek1I/AAAAAAAAAWI/c1r1TgnQ5fA/s640/Elaine,+snow+and+altitude+sign.bmp) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tzsFy_cZszc/UpnjL9Oek1I/AAAAAAAAAWI/c1r1TgnQ5fA/s1600/Elaine,+snow+and+altitude+sign.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Heading back to Portland from Red Rocks.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-93LdvQJ1YW4/UpnjTlEr_cI/AAAAAAAAAWQ/d3dItba8tnw/s640/Mike+bouldering+at+Bishop,+Nov+93.bmp) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-93LdvQJ1YW4/UpnjTlEr_cI/AAAAAAAAAWQ/d3dItba8tnw/s1600/Mike+bouldering+at+Bishop,+Nov+93.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Buttermilks in November.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OqIZpW9PyAw/Upnjc6hfFYI/AAAAAAAAAWY/-UjFL0KQ6dM/s640/Smith+Rock+2.bmp) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OqIZpW9PyAw/Upnjc6hfFYI/AAAAAAAAAWY/-UjFL0KQ6dM/s1600/Smith+Rock+2.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The legendary Smith Rocks.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9RJAN80Njfk/Upnjlx4KwpI/AAAAAAAAAWg/v0RUdnfbKa8/s640/Warm+up,+Red+Rocks.bmp) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9RJAN80Njfk/Upnjlx4KwpI/AAAAAAAAAWg/v0RUdnfbKa8/s1600/Warm+up,+Red+Rocks.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]A nice warm up at Red Rocks.[/td][/tr]
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Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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I hate climbing at Christmas, it's so ....... cold! (said Elaine). (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2013/12/we-had-some-superb-days-climbing-at.html)
29 December 2013, 1:28 pm
We had some superb days climbing at Jurassic Park and Cayenne, in early December. The weather was amazing and very mild and the crags were bone dry. It was nice to go out and feel our bodies moving, even though we didn't do anything new. It's always good to break in new shoes on stuff you know, too.
Kirstie and Hardin finished off a couple of their projects, Well done! Seb and Cathy ventured down from the cold, further north. It was really fun to see them again, after such a long time. Amazingly, Seb was still climbing in shorts when he sent Psychopat! Cathy was more sensibly dressed when she sent La Queue du Diable. Both 8a+'s dispatched very quickly by a mega pro team! Encore, well done!
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-v0e8Di_wDqQ/UsAcQfMQEWI/AAAAAAAAAXA/5XD7wmEFqxE/s640/018.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-v0e8Di_wDqQ/UsAcQfMQEWI/AAAAAAAAAXA/5XD7wmEFqxE/s1600/018.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Seb Hemmery showing Psychopat whose boss. Shorts at Jurassic Park in December![/td][/tr]
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Around the same time, I finally saw another dentist about my on-going saga with my root-canal. It has finally been taken out and (fingers crossed) the infection is finished. I've been feeling so much better ever since.
However, the day before the Christmas holidays started, the rain clouds rolled in and I also picked up a bad cold. Perfect timing for both!
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-snDZu9WktO0/UsAioIJYZ1I/AAAAAAAAAXo/H49mqA6pAc4/s640/Ashley+Lewis+on+Viatge+a+Venus.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-snDZu9WktO0/UsAioIJYZ1I/AAAAAAAAAXo/H49mqA6pAc4/s1600/Ashley+Lewis+on+Viatge+a+Venus.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Ashley Lewis on Viatge a Venus, 7a, at Montgrony. Photo by Rich Kirby.[/td][/tr]
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We decided to go to Montgrony, just inside Spain. Rich Kirby had recently been and his photos looked ace. So, we were hooked. The first two days was very promising (even with a runny nose and constant coughing) with blue skies and plenty of sun. Then we had 3 days of rain and snow, accompanied with very cold temps, during which we were stuck inside the camper van. Still, we managed to cook a fab meal on Christmas Day. We managed one more day of sun, before giving up yesterday when it turned out cloudy and very cold again. We drove home through the rain. There are some great looking routes to go back there for, especially Gaia and Callabruix (Aromes de Montgrony looks fantastic but I can tell it also looks well gnarly!). Still, it was nice to do some climbing up to 7c.
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-G3z2cJ-nsxU/UsAgvUd9-2I/AAAAAAAAAXU/OJGrdbFSi1o/s640/024.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-G3z2cJ-nsxU/UsAgvUd9-2I/AAAAAAAAAXU/OJGrdbFSi1o/s1600/024.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Home made mince pies![/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lEvM80rNrM0/UsAhDfMjuzI/AAAAAAAAAXc/xebSYFTcPRM/s640/027.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-lEvM80rNrM0/UsAhDfMjuzI/AAAAAAAAAXc/xebSYFTcPRM/s1600/027.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Christmas Day lunch washed down with champagne.[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--2Por5-Kd5o/UsAgpwAnw2I/AAAAAAAAAXM/PpFqh_Lzqm0/s640/002.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--2Por5-Kd5o/UsAgpwAnw2I/AAAAAAAAAXM/PpFqh_Lzqm0/s1600/002.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]One of the best doss spots ever? Right under the crag in the sun and quiet too.[/td][/tr]
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Back home and the sun is out. Artbloc tomorrow!
Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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At last a blog I enjoy reading :coffee:
The older I get the more I respect and admire people who are still pushing on, keep it up guys.
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Heart Of The Sunrise (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2014/01/we-dont-tend-to-watch-tv-here.html)
1 January 2014, 3:03 pm
We don't tend to watch TV here. Instead, most of the time we have the stereo hard drive playing on random, whilst reading or whatever. Last night, a particular song played and it took me way, way back in time almost forty years. The song was "Heart of the Sunrise" by Yes.
Inevitably, I grew up listening to my parents musical tastes, particularly The Seekers, Val Doonican and musical soundtracks, such as South Pacific (I wanted to meet a girl who wore a hoola hoola skirt!). The Beatles happened and I was completely oblivious. However, as teenage loomed ever closer I began to take more interest in the sounds out there. In 1971, with some birthday money, I bought four singles. They were "My Sweet Lord" (George Harrison), "The Resurrection Shuffle" (Aston, Gardner and Dyke), "Give Me Just A Little More Time" (Chairman of the Board) and "Sugar, Sugar" (Saccharin version). They were all so different, but all classics in the Top 30 at that time.
For the next three years, I became hooked on the songs by T Rex, Slade, The Sweet and Gary Glitter. Yes, I was into pop music, big time. Then something amazing happened. In the spring of 1974, a boy in my class (called Hayden Davies) lent me an album to take home and listen to. The album was called "Fragile" by a band called Yes. I'd never heard of them. Apparently, they were into something weird called "Progressive Rock", whatever that was. The album had been around for a couple of years already (according to the sleeve notes, it was released on 4th January 1972).
I waited until there was nobody in the house (I didn't want my sisters laughing at my music) and put the LP on the turn table and settled down. After the first few chords of the first track (Roundabout), I knew that the music was good, very good indeed. I was stunned by just how special the whole album was. The quality of the musicianship was of such a high level, compared to what I was used to hearing and the lyrics seemed to hint towards folklore and nature. I was also fascinated by the album cover as well. It opened up, like a book and inside there were the lyrics to read and sing along with. Also, there was a colour booklet with photos of the five band members and (significantly, because I'd just started rock climbing) there was a painting of a climber scaling a sheer cliff on the side of a pinnacle.
I became a big fan of Yes, particularly the line up of Anderson, Howe, Brufford, Squire and Wakeman. I was gutted, in 1982, when our Vauxhall Viva was broken into in a Liverpool car park and the stereo and cassette tapes were stolen (including a pre-recorded cassette of Fragile). I still have my vinyl copy and of course the CD, too. Fragile is still one of my favourite albums and Roundabout, Heart of the Sunrise and South Side of the Sky are still wonderful songs that evoke memories of blissful teenage summers.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UgidZtIs9OM/UsQtygROvPI/AAAAAAAAAX0/h08yVJChh-U/s640/011.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-UgidZtIs9OM/UsQtygROvPI/AAAAAAAAAX0/h08yVJChh-U/s1600/011.jpg)
Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Yes are one of my favorite bands. One of the best experiances of my life was seeing "South Side of the Sky" played live! The old LP's were great, I've got most of Yes's and the artwork by Roger Dean is brilliant. They mean so much more than some rubbish CD case.
It's a shame Jon Anderson isn't with them anymore his solo tours are great though. A few years ago now I seen him play at The Robbin 2 in Wolverhampton, it was just him, an acoustic and a room with no more then 100 people in, amazing!
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Wild West Tour 1993, Part 1 (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2014/01/wild-west-tour-1993-part-1.html)
11 January 2014, 9:01 pm
Planning to take a year off work is really exciting, despite the other things going on in our life at the moment. It reminds me of the last time we took time out 20 years ago....
We flew out of Manchester the same day our (ex) colleagues went back to school after the summer hols. The cross Atlantic flight was a novelty for us as we'd not been in a plane for more than a couple of hours before. We made the most of the free Jack Daniels, the air hostess even gave us the left over bottles for the internal flights! We eventually arrived in "Portland Oregon" (as said by Jack Nicholson in The Shining) having traveled via Chicago and Dallas to be picked up by Pete Kirton (the one from Ellesmere Port!) and driven back to his flat in downtown Portland. Jet lagged, we struggled with the heat and the city noise for a couple of days whilst Pete and Sandra worked long hours at Geraldi's deli.
We bought a Chevrolet for 600$ and set off for the vertical, crimpy ryolite walls of Smith Rock, armed with Glenn Sutcliffe's topo and memories of Ian Horrock's superb photos. Pete had put us in touch with a non-climbing friend of his (called Marla Gibson) who lived opposite the car park at Smith. It seemed that we'd be able to camp in her extensive garden. However, when we got there she insisted we stay in her house. The next day, she announced she was heading off on a rodeo for a couple of weeks and was wondering if we'd mind looking after her house! But we'd have to water the plants, feed the horses, feed the cats, etc. We couldn't believe our luck. After 2 weeks, Marla phoned up asking if it was OK if she stayed another week!!! We were amazed at her generosity and her trust.
September proved to be a bit too warm for Smith, but we were more than happy to get stuck into lots of new climbing. We were well prepared, having been Pex Hill regulars for many years, and had 3 fantastic weeks ticking the classics, eg. Darkness At Noon, Last Waltz, Chain Reaction, Aggro Monkey, Churning In The Wake, Kings Of Rap, Rude Boys and many more. We also visited a new area of cliffs called the Lava Tubes, with Midway/Prime Minister being a wild, steep 5.13a (7c+).
At the beginning of October, we headed on to the granite cliffs of City Of Rocks in Idaho. We were expecting plenty of rednecks (having seen the Clint eatswood film "Thunderbolt and Lightfoot") and we weren't disappointed! It seemed weird putting the tent up after being at Marla's. Still, it was nice camping near the crags, even if the grades were tough. Unfortunately, it wasn't possible to climb on The Dolphin at that time so we settled down to ticking lots of classics between 5.11 and 5.13a (6b to 7c+).
After 4 days without a shower we were stinking and drove to the nearest civilisation (a shop at a road junction about 15 miles away). We both took it in turns to keep watch whilst we used the shower.
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8kXOXsBcWV0/UtGo6nQGrMI/AAAAAAAAAYQ/zKJ45flUUNE/s1600/Smith+Rock+2.bmp) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8kXOXsBcWV0/UtGo6nQGrMI/AAAAAAAAAYQ/zKJ45flUUNE/s1600/Smith+Rock+2.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Smith Rocks seen from the parking lot in front of Marla's house.[/td][/tr]
[/table]
| (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rW0CUG__TOU/UtGq-a6k_9I/AAAAAAAAAYY/xBZzZv4GOfw/s1600/211430.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-rW0CUG__TOU/UtGq-a6k_9I/AAAAAAAAAYY/xBZzZv4GOfw/s1600/211430.jpg) |
| Smith Rocks |
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rmDZCko0ABI/UtGq_vdok2I/AAAAAAAAAYg/fys-WKV-Aq0/s1600/159239.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rmDZCko0ABI/UtGq_vdok2I/AAAAAAAAAYg/fys-WKV-Aq0/s1600/159239.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Sunshine Dihedral, To Bolt Or Not To Be, 5.14a (up the smooth wall) and Last Waltz, 5.12c (up the arete left again).[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aOer5hLgxxY/UtGrCe76B6I/AAAAAAAAAYs/bXn95nvCY80/s1600/106906.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aOer5hLgxxY/UtGrCe76B6I/AAAAAAAAAYs/bXn95nvCY80/s1600/106906.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Keefe Murphy on Vicious Fish (Churning in the Wake is the easier bottom part at 5.13a).[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D_wc2MiR9pM/UtGrEwZ0qSI/AAAAAAAAAY0/e-z8kzV7Qzc/s1600/177156.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D_wc2MiR9pM/UtGrEwZ0qSI/AAAAAAAAAY0/e-z8kzV7Qzc/s1600/177156.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Aggro Monkey, a soft, but great 5.13b (8a).[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gzFH1K3EZfE/UtGuOp9sjQI/AAAAAAAAAZA/qHtG6sxEqKQ/s1600/76068.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gzFH1K3EZfE/UtGuOp9sjQI/AAAAAAAAAZA/qHtG6sxEqKQ/s1600/76068.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Ligthning over Elephant Rock, City of Rocks, Idaho.[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ID1VQ4o3ILo/UtGuQtoCHCI/AAAAAAAAAZE/rJSee8MatEI/s1600/19983.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ID1VQ4o3ILo/UtGuQtoCHCI/AAAAAAAAAZE/rJSee8MatEI/s1600/19983.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Energizer, 5.13 a at City of Rocks, Idaho.[/td][/tr]
[/table]We then headed on east towards Salt Lake City for the next chapter of our wild west tour.
Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Wild West Tour, 1993 Part 2 (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2014/01/wild-west-tour-1993-part-2.html)
19 January 2014, 7:51 pm
Q. What to do when it's raining heavily for the fourth consecutive day?
A. Go back to bed after a late breakfast, get up at 3.30 pm, take Scamp out for a long (wet) walk and then try and write a blog post. Simple as that.
What? No climbing today? Our bodies are aching all over after a great session at Val de Grimpe yesterday (along with just about all the other climbers down here - boy it was busy, but good fun). Anyway, spare time is good to do some thinking and planning for the future, i.e. the future after we finish work at the end of next June. And also good to think back to what we were doing in Salt Lake City, over 20 years ago.
In early 1990, I was facing a dilemma. I had to make a difficult-ish decision. For the past 2 years, I'd been testing gear for Lowe Alpine. I was one of a small team, which included Dougie Hall, Glenn Sutcliffe, John Hartley and was coordinated by Tony Ryan. I felt very privileged to have been asked to join the team and enjoyed using my knowledge of the outdoor trade to good effect. We had Beal ropes, Vertical shoes and Lowe Alpine sacks and jackets to test. It was great fun. Then I was approached by DMM, hence the dilemma. I didn't like the idea of turning my back on Lowe Alpine, but to go with DMM was too good an opportunity to turn down, as it meant access to La Sportiva shoes, Mammut ropes and all the cutting edge DMM gear at the time such as Truclip's, Mamba's and so on. Such fabulous gear to test and to be part of such an innovative company. It was amazing to listen to Fred Hall's ideas for the next new piece of kit and to liaise with witty and super cool dude, Paul Simpkiss.
So, what does this have to do with our US road trip? Just be patient, OK?
After seeing "Masters of Stone" at Pete Kirton's in Portland, we had more of an idea where we wanted to go to. One of the must go to places was American Fork, near SLC. We remembered Paul Simpkiss' tales about the guy who imported DMM stuff into the US, Steve Petro. Paul described him as a really cool dude and an ace climber and told us we should try and meet up with him and his then-partner (now wife), ace climber Lisa Gnade. Whilst at Smith Rock, we met somebody who told us that John Barstow (a talented climbing photographer) was a neighbour and all we'd have to do was look him up in the phone directory when we got there.
It was way past bed time when we finally ended up on Steve and Lisa's doorstep (at that time they were both teaching as well). John mischievously left us to it, after making brief introductions. Steve was very unimpressed and looked very mean standing in his boxers, he had the most impressive six pack and lats I'd ever seen (however, the effect was somewhat cancelled out by an enormous out of place handle bar moustache). It was turning into an embarrassing stand off and we were making our apologies and about to leave, when Lisa appeared and told Steve to let us in. Steve capitulated immediately and we crossed the threshold.
That was the start of the next part of our amazing trip. We stayed for over 2 weeks and did some great climbing at AF. Steve and Lisa were wonderful hosts and pointed us at the best routes and as the days passed we became great friends. Steve adopted me as his "little brother"! He also tried to help me cope with a particularly bad bout of farting by prescribing something called "Beano". Needless to say it had no effect, if anything it seemed to make me worse (or better?).
October wasn't the best time to be at AF, it was pretty cold and damp in fact. Still, it was nice for us to send some of the hard routes in Hell Cave, including "Melting" (5.13a) and "Burning" (5.13b) and countless other classics such as "License to Thrill" (5.11c) and "The Abyss" (5,12c). Soon we were ready to head west, past the Great Salt Lake towards the sun. We managed to grab a couple of good routes at Donner Summit on the way, including "Warp Factor" (the 5.13a first part of the bouldery "Steep Climb Named Desire"). Then we headed south towards TM Herbert's place and the prospect of steep climbing at Cave Rock, above Lake Tahoe in Nevada.
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-12v4syi3vh4/UtwhNBKUqQI/AAAAAAAAAZU/90OHuYpuHOk/s1600/Steve+Petro+at+Hell+Cave,+AF.bmp) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-12v4syi3vh4/UtwhNBKUqQI/AAAAAAAAAZU/90OHuYpuHOk/s1600/Steve+Petro+at+Hell+Cave,+AF.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]My big brother, Steve Petro about to make a trip to Hell.[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fOsVDZfQ_rk/UtwhSS4o7MI/AAAAAAAAAZc/wF2fr6Rr2-E/s1600/Elaine+and+Lisa+at+AF,+Sept+93.bmp) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fOsVDZfQ_rk/UtwhSS4o7MI/AAAAAAAAAZc/wF2fr6Rr2-E/s1600/Elaine+and+Lisa+at+AF,+Sept+93.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Elaine with Lisa Gnade at the Hell Cave, AF.[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MyzDLlyxs8w/UtwhUmIwDqI/AAAAAAAAAZk/cv1tfbYY3qU/s1600/Lisa+Gnade,+Wizards+2,+AF,+sept+93.bmp) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MyzDLlyxs8w/UtwhUmIwDqI/AAAAAAAAAZk/cv1tfbYY3qU/s1600/Lisa+Gnade,+Wizards+2,+AF,+sept+93.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Lisa on "Wizards", 5.13c (8a+).[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_xZvl0ikDcA/Utwhjq8vQXI/AAAAAAAAAZs/AL06apSqtU0/s1600/Steve+Petro,+Hell+1,+Sept+93.bmp) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_xZvl0ikDcA/Utwhjq8vQXI/AAAAAAAAAZs/AL06apSqtU0/s1600/Steve+Petro,+Hell+1,+Sept+93.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Steve crushing "Hell", 5.13b (8a).[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HrJP6kPYNhM/UtwhkqObrmI/AAAAAAAAAZw/jLy-Wp505Vk/s1600/IMG_0030.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HrJP6kPYNhM/UtwhkqObrmI/AAAAAAAAAZw/jLy-Wp505Vk/s1600/IMG_0030.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]A more recent photo of "Burning", 5.13b (8a).[/td][/tr]
[/table]
Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
-
Wild West Tour 1993, Part 2 (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2014/01/wild-west-tour-1993-part-2.html)
19 January 2014, 7:51 pm
Q. What to do when it's raining heavily for the fourth consecutive day?
A. Go back to bed after a late breakfast, get up at 3.30 pm, take Scamp out for a long (wet) walk and then try and write a blog post. Simple as that.
What? No climbing today? Our bodies are aching all over after a great session at Val de Grimpe yesterday (along with just about all the other climbers down here - boy it was busy, but good fun). Anyway, spare time is good to do some thinking and planning for the future, i.e. the future after we finish work at the end of next June. And also good to think back to what we were doing in Salt Lake City, over 20 years ago.
In early 1990, I was facing a dilemma. I had to make a difficult-ish decision. For the past 2 years, I'd been testing gear for Lowe Alpine. I was one of a small team, which included Dougie Hall, Glenn Sutcliffe, John Hartley and was coordinated by Tony Ryan. I felt very privileged to have been asked to join the team and enjoyed using my knowledge of the outdoor trade to good effect. We had Beal ropes, Vertical shoes and Lowe Alpine sacks and jackets to test. It was great fun. Then I was approached by DMM, hence the dilemma. I didn't like the idea of turning my back on Lowe Alpine, but to go with DMM was too good an opportunity to turn down, as it meant access to La Sportiva shoes, Mammut ropes and all the cutting edge DMM gear at the time such as Truclips, Mambas and Wallnuts. Such fabulous gear to test and to be part of such an innovative company. It was amazing to listen to Fred Hall's ideas for the next new piece of kit and to liaise with witty and super cool dude, Paul Simkiss.
So, what does this have to do with our US road trip? Just be patient, OK?
After seeing "Masters of Stone" at Pete Kirton's in Portland, we had more of an idea where we wanted to go on our road trip. One of the must-go places was American Fork Canyon, near SLC. We remembered Paul's tales about the guy who imported DMM stuff into the US, Steve Petro. Paul described him as a really cool dude and an ace climber and told us we should try and meet up with him and his then-partner (now wife), ace climber Lisa Gnade. Whilst at Smith Rock, we met somebody who told us that John Barstow (a really talented climbing photographer) was a neighbour and all we'd have to do was look him up in the phone directory when we got there.
It was way past bed time when we finally ended up on Steve and Lisa's doorstep (at that time they were both teaching as well as setting up their business, called Excalibur, and they had to be at school the following day). John mischievously left us to it, after making brief introductions. Steve was very unimpressed and looked very mean standing in his boxers, he had the most impressive six pack and lats I'd ever seen (however, the effect was somewhat cancelled out by an enormous out of place handle bar moustache). It was turning into an embarrassing stand off and we were making our apologies and about to leave, when Lisa appeared and told Steve to let us in. Steve capitulated immediately and we crossed the threshold.
That was the start of the next part of our amazing trip. We stayed for over 2 weeks and did some great climbing at AF. Steve and Lisa were wonderful hosts and pointed us at the best routes and as the days passed we became great friends. Steve adopted me as his "little brother"! He also tried to help me cope with a particularly bad bout of farting by prescribing something called "Beano". Needless to say it had no effect, if anything it seemed to make me worse.
October wasn't the best time to be at AF, it was pretty cold and damp infact. Still, it was nice for us to send some of the hard routes in the Hell Cave, including "Melting" (5.13a) and "Burning" (5.13b) and countless other classics such as "License to Thrill" (5.11c) and "The Abyss" (5,12c). Soon we were ready to head west, past the Great Salt Lake towards the sun. We headed towards TM Herbert's place in Gardnerville, in Nevada, and the prospect of steep climbing at Cave Rock above Lake Tahoe and the next chapter in our wild west adventure.
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-12v4syi3vh4/UtwhNBKUqQI/AAAAAAAAAZU/90OHuYpuHOk/s1600/Steve+Petro+at+Hell+Cave,+AF.bmp) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-12v4syi3vh4/UtwhNBKUqQI/AAAAAAAAAZU/90OHuYpuHOk/s1600/Steve+Petro+at+Hell+Cave,+AF.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]My big brother, Steve Petro about to make a trip to Hell.[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fOsVDZfQ_rk/UtwhSS4o7MI/AAAAAAAAAZc/wF2fr6Rr2-E/s1600/Elaine+and+Lisa+at+AF,+Sept+93.bmp) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fOsVDZfQ_rk/UtwhSS4o7MI/AAAAAAAAAZc/wF2fr6Rr2-E/s1600/Elaine+and+Lisa+at+AF,+Sept+93.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Elaine and Lisa thawing out in the sun at the Hell Cave, AF.[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MyzDLlyxs8w/UtwhUmIwDqI/AAAAAAAAAZk/cv1tfbYY3qU/s1600/Lisa+Gnade,+Wizards+2,+AF,+sept+93.bmp) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MyzDLlyxs8w/UtwhUmIwDqI/AAAAAAAAAZk/cv1tfbYY3qU/s1600/Lisa+Gnade,+Wizards+2,+AF,+sept+93.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Lisa cruising "Wizards", 5.13c (8a+).[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_xZvl0ikDcA/Utwhjq8vQXI/AAAAAAAAAZs/AL06apSqtU0/s1600/Steve+Petro,+Hell+1,+Sept+93.bmp) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_xZvl0ikDcA/Utwhjq8vQXI/AAAAAAAAAZs/AL06apSqtU0/s1600/Steve+Petro,+Hell+1,+Sept+93.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Steve crushing "Hell", 5.13b (8a).[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HrJP6kPYNhM/UtwhkqObrmI/AAAAAAAAAZw/jLy-Wp505Vk/s1600/IMG_0030.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-HrJP6kPYNhM/UtwhkqObrmI/AAAAAAAAAZw/jLy-Wp505Vk/s1600/IMG_0030.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]A more recent photo of "Burning", 5.13b (8a).[/td][/tr]
[/table]
Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Wild West Tour 1993, Part 3 (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2014/01/plans-are-going-well-regarding-our.html)
26 January 2014, 1:21 pm
Plans are going well regarding our coming year travelling sans travail. We're close to booking our tickets for China in October and we're also going to visit Misja Pec (Slovenia) and the Amalfi coast (south of Naples, Italy). We're psyched. But, we can't be bothered to go climbing outdoors here! The weather is beautiful this weekend, but anything on tufas is very wet after the recent monsoon. Still, it's good to go bouldering indoors.
OK, so back to 1993 and TM Herbert.....
We met Tom and Sondra Herbert at Malham in early 1993. They stayed with us a while in sunny St Helens. Tom told us lots of tales about his legendary father and the climbing at Cave Rock and Yosemite. He said we'd have to go stay with his dad. So, that's exactly what we did after leaving SLC.
TM was one of the early pioneers of big wall climbing in Yosemite and made the first ascent of Muir Wall with Yvon Chouinard in 1965. It was the first time a new route on El Cap was climbed by a team of two in a single push, i.e. without using siege techniques, fixing ropes and descending to the Valley for a rest. Needless to say, we were in awe of meeting such a legend.
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DuGpgcdKIrg/UuUBWKOuFUI/AAAAAAAAAas/3DJWIVtA-hg/s1600/File0045.bmp) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DuGpgcdKIrg/UuUBWKOuFUI/AAAAAAAAAas/3DJWIVtA-hg/s1600/File0045.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]TM Herbert during the 1st ascent of Salathe Wall on El Capitan, Yosemite Valley, 1962[/td][/tr]
[/table]
TM proved to be an amazingly funny and entertaining host, completely obsessed with The Beatles, partial to a beer and still mad keen on climbing. When we woke up on the first day, he announced that we were going to go to the pie shop. We naturally assumed he was talking about going to eat some pies. So, patiently (because we were keen to get out climbing) we went along with his idea. Imagine our surprise, to find the The Pie Shop was actually a cliff and we didn't have to eat any pies after all! TM took us up Crepe's Corner (a 5.7) and then True Grip (a tricky 5.10b). It was fantastic to see how well he climbed and to listen to his constant banter at the same time. Later on he suspected we were up for harder stuff and took us to Cave Rock.
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0qj_gsWn90E/UuUAG63sjQI/AAAAAAAAAaI/t3PNc83jJR0/s1600/Elaine+and+TM+at+the+Pie+Shop%252C+Nov+93.bmp) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0qj_gsWn90E/UuUAG63sjQI/AAAAAAAAAaI/t3PNc83jJR0/s1600/Elaine+and+TM+at+the+Pie+Shop%252C+Nov+93.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Elaine and TM at "The Pie Shop"![/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aYjnbebvrJA/UuUARSri2VI/AAAAAAAAAaQ/cAJs6OwuAwo/s1600/TM+Herbert+at+the+Pie+Shop.bmp) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aYjnbebvrJA/UuUARSri2VI/AAAAAAAAAaQ/cAJs6OwuAwo/s1600/TM+Herbert+at+the+Pie+Shop.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]TM leading True Grip[/td][/tr]
[/table]
Anybody who has watched "Masters of Stone" will have seen Dan Osman on and off "Slayer" (5.14a or 8b+). He takes some amazing whippers for the camera. To be honest, we were a bit disappointed how small the crag really was. It is high enough but not very wide, so there aren't loads of routes there. Plus, it's right above the road and the road goes through a massive tunnel in the cliff. Still, there was enough to keep us occupied for a couple of weeks. I even bought my first pair of knee pads (as recommended by Tom for the essential knee bars). We ticked some ace routes: Asylum (12a), Port of Entry (12a), Fire in the Hole/Caveman (12b), Bat out of Hell (12c), Concave (12d), Pumping Andesite (13a), Shut up and Climb, Geek (13a), Caveman Direct (13a), Psycho Monkey (13b), Psycho Lord (13b) and Phantom Lord (13c).
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qqOHSVSDSrY/UuUA5MTaJvI/AAAAAAAAAag/q1XgsWWM_Rk/s1600/Masters+of+Stone+cover.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qqOHSVSDSrY/UuUA5MTaJvI/AAAAAAAAAag/q1XgsWWM_Rk/s1600/Masters+of+Stone+cover.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Dan Osman on Slayer on the cover of Masters of Stone[/td][/tr]
[/table]
During our time there, we had the cliff completely to ourselves. We soon found out why. Apparently, Cave Rock is sacred to the local indigenous indiens. They were in the process of getting climbing officially banned. We were photographed and interviewed by a reporter from the Lake Tahoe Tribune and made it onto the front and back covers! Bizarrely the indiens didn't seem to have a problem with the road and tunnel going through their monument! Just goes to show that blaming climbers is always the easy option. Sadly, you can't go climbing there anymore.
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hKajNkG6zio/UuUKC7ZqWoI/AAAAAAAAAa8/rDK76DnMiFA/s1600/Cave+Rock+Newspaper.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hKajNkG6zio/UuUKC7ZqWoI/AAAAAAAAAa8/rDK76DnMiFA/s1600/Cave+Rock+Newspaper.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Climbers getting a bad press in the Lake Tahoe Tribune[/td][/tr]
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Before we left, TM took us for our first trip to Yosemite. He led us up the classics Moby Dick (5.9) and Sacherer Cracker (5.10a) at the base of El Cap. We were gob-smacked! TM was awesome when it came to thrutching up off-widths, whereas we got hideously pumped! Still, it is important to work on your weak points! Elaine published an excellent profile of TM in High (No. 151 in June 1995).
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Hgc_4jCsdZ4/UuUA3_GMQpI/AAAAAAAAAaY/1XDV5tL6C0s/s1600/TM%252C+Moby+Dick%252C+Nov+93.bmp) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Hgc_4jCsdZ4/UuUA3_GMQpI/AAAAAAAAAaY/1XDV5tL6C0s/s1600/TM%252C+Moby+Dick%252C+Nov+93.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]TM leading Moby Dick[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O6lqSLOEQV0/UuUBApbSsII/AAAAAAAAAao/VM1z_nLvKug/s1600/TM+Sacherer+Cracker%252C+Nov+93.bmp) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-O6lqSLOEQV0/UuUBApbSsII/AAAAAAAAAao/VM1z_nLvKug/s1600/TM+Sacherer+Cracker%252C+Nov+93.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]TM leading Sacherer Cracker[/td][/tr]
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We also got a day in at Big Chief to do the 13a featured in Masters of Stone called All Guns Blazing. Then we headed to Donner Summit to do another 13a featured in the video called Warp Factor. We were headed for Sonora, to stay with Tom and Sondra and sample the mega steep Jailhouse Rock and just maybe do a big wall at Yosemite.........
Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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"It's raining again!" (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2014/02/its-raining-again.html)
4 February 2014, 5:21 pm
January this year turned out to be a first, a first since moving here in 1999. This was the first year that we didn't climb outside in January. Not once. What's happening? I am sick of this flippin' rain. Enough is enough.
The winters used to be fantastic down here. The sky was always so much clearer than in summer and the weather would be very settled, after a period of heavy rain around the end of October. Usually, there wasn't any rain then until around the end of March.
All the local climbers down here would be out each weekend working and sending projects at Peillon Grotte and Castillon. Also, it was possible to climb at Deverse and even at Jurassic Park and Cayenne (which used to stay dry in winter) if you didn't mind the cold. Now, each year seems to be wetter than the previous one and the only sensible option seems to be climbing indoors. The good news is that we'll be in Liverpool for a session at The Climbing Hangar at the end of Feb! Something to look forward to...
Shame Elaine has aggravated her finger. She had been making great progress and getting steadily stronger down the wall. She has had a 2 week layoff and will try it out again tomorrow. Hope all goes well.
Meanwhile, we're still making plans for our year out. But, I'm not in the mood for writing anymore about our Wild West Tour at the moment.
It is always great to hear from old friends. Andy Pollitt got in touch and we've been trading tales since the last time we were together a long, long time ago! I'm doing my best to get him to put on a pair of rock shoes again. Watch this space.
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TGq4kiZ0ffU/UvEgg42m1lI/AAAAAAAAAbc/voUmCX1RIoA/s1600/019.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TGq4kiZ0ffU/UvEgg42m1lI/AAAAAAAAAbc/voUmCX1RIoA/s1600/019.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Trying hard downstairs in the cave last Sunday![/td][/tr]
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(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ynYD-F5x-_I/UvEgiiMe5PI/AAAAAAAAAbk/ERSgN3FCg3g/s1600/023.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ynYD-F5x-_I/UvEgiiMe5PI/AAAAAAAAAbk/ERSgN3FCg3g/s1600/023.jpg)
Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Wild West Tour 1993, Part 4 (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2014/02/wild-west-tour-1993-part-4.html)
18 February 2014, 5:57 pm
There was me moaning about the weather again. Erm, it's not been as bad as what my friends back in Britain have been putting up with, so I promise never to mention the weather down here ever again. Honest!
Still not mustered the enthusiasm for venturing outside, as most crags are still very wet. Been trying hard indoors though. Half term is fast approaching, so we'll make it outside during the next week for sure.
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h4wMiyWM4g8/UwOVfthU1zI/AAAAAAAAAcE/iTXM-PPPGFI/s1600/Mike+Val+de+Grimpe+2.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h4wMiyWM4g8/UwOVfthU1zI/AAAAAAAAAcE/iTXM-PPPGFI/s1600/Mike+Val+de+Grimpe+2.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Hauling my ass up a tough red problem at Val de Grimpe[/td][/tr]
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Back to our first US trip. Now, where were we?
After climbing at Smith, AF and Cave Rock we were pretty fit and really chomping at the bit. We were ready for plenty of upside down action at Tom Herbert's very own crag, Jailhouse Rock (he'd equipped many of the routes and lived very close by in Sonora). Jibe had already told us it was a mega crag. At first sight, it doesn't look much cop. But once you leave the ground the climbing is fantastic and really funky. The rock is basalt and very steep (after the initial vertical columns at the start of each route). It really helps if you can knee bar, if not the routes are much harder.
It was the perfect crag for me and I got most of the routes on-sight or first red point. Most memorable were: Cell Block (13a), Soap on a Rope (12d), Fugitive (13a), Birdman (13c) and Jailbait (13c). Elaine didn't take to the style of climbing, as she wasn't used to using trickery with her knees.
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3C8bDy78C2c/UwOWFTt5fUI/AAAAAAAAAcM/myGu9lrI324/s1600/Soap+on+a+rope+5.12d.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-3C8bDy78C2c/UwOWFTt5fUI/AAAAAAAAAcM/myGu9lrI324/s1600/Soap+on+a+rope+5.12d.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Soap on a Rope (5.12d) at Jaihouse Rock[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-69PbFiWAKco/UwOWF849iCI/AAAAAAAAAcQ/fRTau3wyIh0/s1600/The+Fugitive+5.13a.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-69PbFiWAKco/UwOWF849iCI/AAAAAAAAAcQ/fRTau3wyIh0/s1600/The+Fugitive+5.13a.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The Fugitive (5.13a) at Jailhouse Rock[/td][/tr]
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Whilst staying at Tom and Sondra's they convinced us to return to Yosemite for a few days. We ticked some of the 70's classics on the Cookie Cliff, such as Wheat Thin and Butterballs in the November sun. At Camp Four, there were quite a few Brits either there to boulder or to try a big wall. Despite not having any trad gear and no big wall stuff at all, I began seriously thinking about doing The Nose on El Cap. It would be too much to put Elaine through, so I asked what people were planning. It seemed that Sean Myles and I were going to go for a one day ascent. However, I backed out preferring a more leisurely multiday ascent. Dave Hassall was also looking for somebody to team up with for the same kind of deal. We'd never met each other before and had no idea whether we could depend on each other to get out of a bad situation. Still we were game on but the weather forecast was promising snow in just four days! We'd really have to get shifting....
That day I scrounged loads of nuts and cams and even swapped my sleeping bag for TM's light weight one. Dave and I decided to really cut down on weight to hopefully get us to the top before the storm arrived. We packed only 8 plastic bottles of water, lots of dried fruit, biscuits and chocolate, no water proofs or duvets. The only thing I could provide was a 70m rope from DMM, which would allow us to link 2 pitches together and move more quickly.
Very early on Sunday 7th November, Elaine dropped us off and we struggled up to the base of El Cap with all the gear. Dave set off up the first pitch. It seemed surreal to be starting a big wall after all those years of reading about the history of Yosemite. I think we were both as anxious as each other but neither of us wanted to show it. While I jugged up the rope, Dave pulled the sacks up using a pulley. We swapped leads and I set of up the second pitch. Soon enough we were sat on Sickle Ledge after dispensing with the first tricky bit. Amazingly, the pine trees looked very small from there but the top looked just as far as before.
It was my task to get established in the Stoveleg Cracks. This involved climbing about 10 metres above Dave and then descending a few metres from a bolt. Then I had to start running backwards and forwards across the rock face to try and reach the start of the crack. It provided us with loads of entertainment as the pendulums got bigger and bigger and also involved hurdling a corner too! Eventually, knackered and pretty gripped I got to the crack, stuffed a Friend in and clipped the haul rope in to avoid rope drag and then climbed on-wards and upwards, passing the occasional jammed in big cam. That pitch was so spooky and run out and I was glad to get to the safety of the next belay. The Stovelegs went on and on, Dave and I were both fading as we got to Dolt Tower and the sun was beginning to disappear, but we decided to press on to the luxurious El Cap Tower for our first bivi. It was an amazing sight to see all the lights in the Valley so far below, whilst we smoked some excellent grass that Dave had taken along specially for the occasion. We also noticed lights from a team on Salathe Wall and another on Zodiac. It was incredible to think that there were only three teams on El Cap at that time. We were amazed at our luck. The route was free and there was nobody else to slow us down; we'd climbed a long way that day and the weather was perfect, warm enough to climb in a vest during the day and ok with a sweat shirt and fleece at the bivi.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PoBFaWuK-Tw/UwOXe4ZXmOI/AAAAAAAAAcg/uSAAE7TyLCU/s1600/Dave+Hassall,+El+Cap+Tower+bivi,+Nov+93.bmp) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-PoBFaWuK-Tw/UwOXe4ZXmOI/AAAAAAAAAcg/uSAAE7TyLCU/s1600/Dave+Hassall,+El+Cap+Tower+bivi,+Nov+93.bmp)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hXn6PT62aRg/UwOXpZsXWGI/AAAAAAAAAco/f4f9gJfA9cM/s1600/Mike,+El+Cap+Tower+bivi,+Nov+93.bmp) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hXn6PT62aRg/UwOXpZsXWGI/AAAAAAAAAco/f4f9gJfA9cM/s1600/Mike,+El+Cap+Tower+bivi,+Nov+93.bmp)
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5TipVDvN5AE/UwOXqlGVpDI/AAAAAAAAAcw/p9OOAl-uZX0/s1600/Mike+after+the+1st+bivi+on+El+Cap+Tower,+The+Nose,+Nov+93.bmp) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5TipVDvN5AE/UwOXqlGVpDI/AAAAAAAAAcw/p9OOAl-uZX0/s1600/Mike+after+the+1st+bivi+on+El+Cap+Tower,+The+Nose,+Nov+93.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Bivi at El Cap Tower and about to set off the morning after[/td][/tr]
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We were up early next morning keen to carry on with the show. I ran Texas Flake and Boot Flake out in one pitch, just getting to the belay on the rope stretch. Dave passed The King Swing over to me (perhaps because of my successful pendulum the day before). This involved being lowered from the belay down the left side of the huge Boot Flake and running backwards and forwards to eventually reach a peg. The rope was clipped in and then Dave lowered me some more and then I started running back and forth again (with the peg as the new pendulum point) until it was possible to reach a crack way left, then up to a belay. Dave had a less strenuous diagonal abseil down to my belay. After the King Swing we were totally committed, but we were happy and really focused on the climbing.
Dave got the most famous and photogenic pitch on the route: The Great Roof. He made it look so easy, he did a fantastic job without any fuss. I was surprised how dodgy the in-situ gear whilst going across to his super exposed belay on the lip of the roof. I led through up The Pancake Flake, which provided a really nice way to calm the nerves back down, whilst Dave could soak up the horrendous exposure for a while longer. We spent that night at Camp Five, which was pretty uncomfortable and there were loads of centipedes crawling everywhere.
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KO4KxOBBngo/UwOYZKHeZ_I/AAAAAAAAAc4/RlioZBWeu1E/s1600/Dave+Hassle+leading+up+to+the+Great+Roof.bmp) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KO4KxOBBngo/UwOYZKHeZ_I/AAAAAAAAAc4/RlioZBWeu1E/s1600/Dave+Hassle+leading+up+to+the+Great+Roof.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Dave leading the Great Roof pitch[/td][/tr]
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Next morning we were both stiff and tired. We were also near the end of our food and water, which meant we had to top out that day or our fun would turn into an epic! The trees looked like match sticks but the top still looked a very, very long way above us still. We were also concerned about the storm, which would arrive the next day. We really had to finish that day, as we probably wouldn't have survived a forced bivi without warm clothing or waterproofs, let alone without any food or water.
We set off, almost oblivious of the fantastic climbing, however the exposure was always there to remind us to keep concentrating. Lots of people had lost their lives on those final pitches over the years, we didn't want to join the long list of casualties. We continued alternating leads and soaking up the exposure, encouraging each other on-wards and upwards. We made good time and the pitches passed by without incident. All too soon, Dave led the last pitch over the final overhang and I jugged up the rope (hoping it wasn't rubbing on the lip) to find him belayed to a pine tree at the top of an easy slab. We'd made it, at last there was no more rock above us and we could relax for a short while. The time was around 2pm.
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-biE8MW238UA/UwOapjEC85I/AAAAAAAAAdY/nuaaV97lWVE/s1600/Enty+on+The+Nose.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-biE8MW238UA/UwOapjEC85I/AAAAAAAAAdY/nuaaV97lWVE/s1600/Enty+on+The+Nose.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]My mate Craig Entwhistle on a recent ascent of The Nose. Lots of exposure from the Changing Corners pitch high up the climb.[/td][/tr]
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We were two different blokes to the ones who set off a couple of days earlier, but we were both really very happy too. We had had a fantastic time climbing together. During the climb, we both felt confident in each other and we made a great team, determined to see the job done but also keen to have as much fun along the way as well. We finished our last bits of food and water and set off down the East Ledges descent. Tom had briefed me about an in-situ rope down the final 500 foot wall. After a very spooky abb down the stretchy rope we were at the foot of El Cap and stumbling back down through the forest to the road in the dark.
Amazingly, Elaine arrived in the car to take us back to Camp Four. She'd had a fun time watching our progress and hanging out with Sean, Ben Moon, Gary Ryan and others bouldering. But, she'd had to cope with much colder temps at night in the valley than us and was keen to get back to Tom and Sondra's in Sonora. Dave was mad for a celebratory beer but I had to leave him to go with the boss. I was sad to leave my new friend behind. Unfortunately, our paths haven't crossed since. But, we keep in touch, thanks to Facebook!
It did snow the next day in Yosemite. We spent some more days clipping bolts at Jailhouse. Then, we returned to the Valley one more time. Elaine had missed out on the big wall experience, so we did the East Buttress route on a very crisp day with snow on the ground and the waterfalls all frozen up. We had a fantastic day leading alternately. Again, we had to descend via the East Ledges abseil, which gave Elaine a good indication of the serious side of climbing on El Cap. It put a big smile on her face.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6fK6TJC_2-0/UwOZpg0rnJI/AAAAAAAAAdE/nzWYx_MS2Nw/s1600/Elaine+after+East+Buttress,+Nov+93.bmp) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6fK6TJC_2-0/UwOZpg0rnJI/AAAAAAAAAdE/nzWYx_MS2Nw/s1600/Elaine+after+East+Buttress,+Nov+93.bmp)
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IrdCH65qiSE/UwOZ1GnCwdI/AAAAAAAAAdM/LY5OW_Jma-w/s1600/Mike+after+East+Buttress,+Nov+93.bmp) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IrdCH65qiSE/UwOZ1GnCwdI/AAAAAAAAAdM/LY5OW_Jma-w/s1600/Mike+after+East+Buttress,+Nov+93.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The happy couple after doing the East Buttress[/td][/tr]
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Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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All good on the beautiful Cote d'Azur (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2014/03/all-good-on-beautiful-cote-dazur.html)
12 March 2014, 7:25 pm
Weather on the Cote d'Azur is back to normal, in other words dry, sunny and the colours and light are amazing right now. Consequently, the crags are drying out (slowly for the crags with tufas) and the cave dwellers from Art-Bloc and Val de Grimpe have been getting outdoors to play. Yippee, all is good fun and everybody is smiling!
Mesa Verde in the Gorges du Loup and the Gorges du Blavet crags are proving very popular, as they are very quick drying.
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-C3BHKWZpiew/UyCSpabXHLI/AAAAAAAAAeY/sOkPstS6bxg/s1600/012.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-C3BHKWZpiew/UyCSpabXHLI/AAAAAAAAAeY/sOkPstS6bxg/s1600/012.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Elaine and Scamp at Mesa Verde[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hlrfIw80r7A/UyCSwKNimDI/AAAAAAAAAeo/7l6eHkiZn-M/s1600/013.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hlrfIw80r7A/UyCSwKNimDI/AAAAAAAAAeo/7l6eHkiZn-M/s1600/013.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Hardin and Kirsty getting ready to warm up in the sun at Mesa Verde[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--WZ487rN6Mw/UyCSukMRNEI/AAAAAAAAAeg/q-OEiPmsBkY/s1600/015.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--WZ487rN6Mw/UyCSukMRNEI/AAAAAAAAAeg/q-OEiPmsBkY/s1600/015.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Manu about to warm up on Pas de Bras, Pas de Chocolat belayed by Diane[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8d431KeH_Gg/UyCZw2ymgVI/AAAAAAAAAfI/KCyc4o6E28A/s1600/20140309_132330.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8d431KeH_Gg/UyCZw2ymgVI/AAAAAAAAAfI/KCyc4o6E28A/s1600/20140309_132330.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Axel warms up in trainers! (photo by Elaine)[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ss2Mo7zp_j0/UyCZ6X0IB6I/AAAAAAAAAfY/kAO3ZFZ2_R0/s1600/20140309_161631.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ss2Mo7zp_j0/UyCZ6X0IB6I/AAAAAAAAAfY/kAO3ZFZ2_R0/s1600/20140309_161631.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Marie-Jo wearing great colours on her 7b+ project (photo by Elaine)[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y0_FA5e7H1c/UyCZ53HuEkI/AAAAAAAAAfU/iQRu992xGV0/s1600/20140309_164939.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y0_FA5e7H1c/UyCZ53HuEkI/AAAAAAAAAfU/iQRu992xGV0/s1600/20140309_164939.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Julien wears normal blokes colours on the same 7b+ (photo by Elaine)[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Xtci8pXKDUo/UyCyVK52MGI/AAAAAAAAAg0/57SLflMqinE/s1600/Mike,+7b++at+Mesa+Verde.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Xtci8pXKDUo/UyCyVK52MGI/AAAAAAAAAg0/57SLflMqinE/s1600/Mike,+7b++at+Mesa+Verde.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Baldy on Projet PHP, 7b+ at Mesa Verde (photo by Hardin Pardede)[/td][/tr]
[/table]A day at Blavet with friends:
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-H1eM_2ZBUKw/UyCti14BuJI/AAAAAAAAAfo/VUHfdmTMOP8/s1600/001.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-H1eM_2ZBUKw/UyCti14BuJI/AAAAAAAAAfo/VUHfdmTMOP8/s1600/001.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Olivier Germain warming up on La Coupe est Pleine, 6b+ (so hard to get good photos at Blavet)[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-I5d18RhUPDs/UyCtpypjzSI/AAAAAAAAAf4/WItiN9DsRmM/s1600/003.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-I5d18RhUPDs/UyCtpypjzSI/AAAAAAAAAf4/WItiN9DsRmM/s1600/003.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Fred Odo warming up on a classic 6c[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JfGkZ6Xp_6w/UyCtm_Cf7pI/AAAAAAAAAfw/JaYhPx-1GK8/s1600/004.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JfGkZ6Xp_6w/UyCtm_Cf7pI/AAAAAAAAAfw/JaYhPx-1GK8/s1600/004.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Olivier belaying Fred[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ljgG1Rs_mOc/UyCt6Mq3tAI/AAAAAAAAAgA/RLN0tAVyzpA/s1600/006.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ljgG1Rs_mOc/UyCt6Mq3tAI/AAAAAAAAAgA/RLN0tAVyzpA/s1600/006.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Fred starting up Poupoune, 7c+[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-A24q9P9hAXw/UyCvjsW62hI/AAAAAAAAAgo/s87fMbdgOJ4/s1600/012.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-A24q9P9hAXw/UyCvjsW62hI/AAAAAAAAAgo/s87fMbdgOJ4/s1600/012.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Sophie sending her first 7a, Los Olvidados, bravo et chapeau![/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UHob9gTrk-M/UyCuCO1uCyI/AAAAAAAAAgQ/XzO380QQI-E/s1600/011.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UHob9gTrk-M/UyCuCO1uCyI/AAAAAAAAAgQ/XzO380QQI-E/s1600/011.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Fred higher on Poupoune[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mrTjrE9b0qg/UyCuJR_76TI/AAAAAAAAAgY/PBsIAl0M2WY/s1600/015.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-mrTjrE9b0qg/UyCuJR_76TI/AAAAAAAAAgY/PBsIAl0M2WY/s1600/015.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Axel sending an 8b, bravo gar![/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TUH8FCBTYCA/UyCzRJtvBoI/AAAAAAAAAg8/S2CTyK_jq48/s1600/Felix+Coxwell+on+Poupoune,+7c+.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TUH8FCBTYCA/UyCzRJtvBoI/AAAAAAAAAg8/S2CTyK_jq48/s1600/Felix+Coxwell+on+Poupoune,+7c+.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]A much better shot of Felix Coxwell on Poupoune, taken by Alex Zuttre[/td][/tr]
[/table]Finally, I was well chuffed to do Gaia (2nd go) at Montgrony, when we had a quick 4 day visit there during the February holiday. I'd always wanted to do this classic 7c+ after seeing an ace photo in Roc n Wall from 1998. Anant amb croses (7c) was also great fun, though I had to red point it as I blew the on-sight. However, Calabruix (8a/8a+) was too hard and needs another visit, probably during our year out.
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--YaOxcwGzg4/UyCXnAWFYkI/AAAAAAAAAe4/DPuLh_VnmXw/s1600/Gaia,+Montgrony.bmp) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/--YaOxcwGzg4/UyCXnAWFYkI/AAAAAAAAAe4/DPuLh_VnmXw/s1600/Gaia,+Montgrony.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The photo from Roc n Wall showing Laurent Triay climbing Gaia at Montgrony[/td][/tr]
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Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Yes, yes, yes! (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2014/03/yes-yes-yes.html)
17 March 2014, 8:07 pm
Not long after moving down here, we bumped into Pete and Lynn Cumming. They had done the same as us. Originally from the Bristol area, they had moved to the Cote d'Azur several years before us and were enjoying the lifestyle, which included lots of sun, wine and of course great climbing.
I knew Pete, but only by name, because he had taken a very long groundfall whilst trying to make an on-sight ascent of a climb I was involved in putting up in Pembroke. He was also very well known for hard ascents at Malham and had put in a lot of effort trying to do Mark Leach's Cry Freedom. I think we actually first met each other at la Grotte du Peillon (Pete was climbing with Philippe Gatta). Then we bumped into each other at the Gorges du Blavet.
I remember very clearly Pete telling me that he'd tried Poupoune, which is a frightening looking 7c+ at Blavet. He said it was really very hard for the grade and very run out. Understandably, I have avoided this climb for the fourteen years since that conversation took place and Pete and Lynn have long since moved back to Bristol! That is, until last week, when I saw an ace photo of Alex Zuttre's posted on Facebook, showing another expat Brit living down here called Felix Coxwell. When I saw that photo I just had to go and find out how scary that climb was. All of a sudden I wanted it badly! How strange is that?
The toil and trouble started (not very promisingly) when I went there with Axel, Olivier, Fred and Sophie last Tuesday. The moves were hard, reachy, technical, on small holds and, yes, very run out in places. It seemed really hard, especially near the top when you'd be really tired. I was falling off again on Saturday, when I went with Marie-Jo and Julien. I actually thought at that point that I couldn't do it, due to a lack of reach on the crux at the top, that is if I was even able to link it together all the way up to there.
However, yesterday Fred Oddo and I both managed to link together all the tenuous moves to clip the chain on our second runs! Fred typically cruised it in fine French style, whereas I had to fight really hard in the bull dog spirit all the way (just ask Sheila Stark, she'll agree). Still, we were both very happy chappies leaving the crag, despite spending 3 days on a 7c+. To cap it all Liverpool beat Man U at Old Trafford finishing off a truly ace day.
What's next? There's a very nice looking 8a just to the left.....
However, it was quite a sad day, too. It was the first time I've gone out climbing without taking Scamp. She was absolutely knackered after Saturday and could hardly walk (she is now eleven and a half years old and she's slowing down). However, she's had two rest days and she's looking good for tomorrow. Fingers crossed!
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JDa9aLMyYxE/UydSV2pYuUI/AAAAAAAAAhM/P2_84JSiGas/s1600/P1050844.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-JDa9aLMyYxE/UydSV2pYuUI/AAAAAAAAAhM/P2_84JSiGas/s1600/P1050844.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Sweety Pie, 6a+ warm up.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zSciBE4RWcU/UydSZOcYOoI/AAAAAAAAAhU/afrLFqI6GMo/s1600/P1050855.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zSciBE4RWcU/UydSZOcYOoI/AAAAAAAAAhU/afrLFqI6GMo/s1600/P1050855.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Setting the draws on Saturday on Poupoune[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kNvgQTCXfnE/UydToPXBHXI/AAAAAAAAAho/ITAPxyA18qg/s1600/Felix+Coxwell+on+Poupoune,+7c+.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-kNvgQTCXfnE/UydToPXBHXI/AAAAAAAAAho/ITAPxyA18qg/s1600/Felix+Coxwell+on+Poupoune,+7c+.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]That great photo of Alex Zuttre's again, thanks mate![/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Kbjg68dX9Hk/UydScbUy1HI/AAAAAAAAAhc/_vaVW6BtgyU/s1600/P1050859.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Kbjg68dX9Hk/UydScbUy1HI/AAAAAAAAAhc/_vaVW6BtgyU/s1600/P1050859.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Scamp watches whilst I struggle (thanks to Marie-Jo Centofanti / Voyages a la Verticale for the photos)[/td][/tr]
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Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Thanks to the Full English and coffee and croissants! (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2014/03/thanks-to-full-english-and-coffee-and.html)
26 March 2014, 7:51 pm
I have to say that most of the time I find Riviera Radio very irritating. However, I do like listening to Rob Harrison on the "Full English Breakfast" broadcast between 7.00 and 8.00 in the morning. After that the music goes down hill and the condescending adverts switch me right off, so I listen to my phone or iPod in preference. However, this Monday I tuned in on my way to school and heard an advert for Air France who were promoting cheap flights to, wait for it, Shanghai.
Now, one of Elaine's brothers lives in Shanghai and we have been intending on going to see him and his beautiful wife, Jenny, at some time during our year off work. Thanks to Air France we have got a great deal. We go in November, tickets booked and paid for. And we're going to go climbing to Yangshou as well. How good is that? Better than superb, I reckon! So, I guess I should say "thank you" to Riviera Radio. I just wish they'd play less of that modern crap "music" and get rid of that annoying American who does the stupid quotes, like "Is that a banger in your pocket, or are you pleased to see me". FFS Also, they should seriously consider what effect the flexigarden.eu adverts have on normal, sensible people. Word up, please.
Changing the subject:
Le Club du Mardi (The Tuesday Club) continues climbing at the Gorges du Blavet. It's the best option down here still, because the limestone crags with tufas are still pretty wet. It means that some of the Nice climbers are getting stuff done outdoors instead of pulling on plastic, which is fine by me.
This club includes legend Axel Franco, mega new route equipper Olivier Germain, super strong Fabien Paupert, Fred "Champagne" Oddo, mega strong pop-star-look-alike Alex Meije and me (baldy old Mike). The crack is as good as it ever was on the catwalk at Malham but there are no wet holds to contend with.
We always stop at the cafe before climbing and I'm always amazed at what my mates eat and how much coffee they drink. Until yesterday, I haven't drunk coffee before climbing for decades as it always made me way too wobbly on the rock. There were no such problems yesterday after a "grande creme" and a "pain aux raisins". Oh dear, this could become a habit!
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DIh3KD15jo4/UzMpfoqS3HI/AAAAAAAAAiA/RNJmd2hoLJg/s1600/004.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DIh3KD15jo4/UzMpfoqS3HI/AAAAAAAAAiA/RNJmd2hoLJg/s1600/004.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Fabien tucking into a croissant coated in cheese[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pDGF3utq-CA/UzMpi2DZwHI/AAAAAAAAAiM/oQEP7upuRxM/s1600/006.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-pDGF3utq-CA/UzMpi2DZwHI/AAAAAAAAAiM/oQEP7upuRxM/s1600/006.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Olivier, Alex, Fabien and Axel going for it! Will they manage to get off the ground?[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y5VAgL1c82Y/UzMpiq3JfSI/AAAAAAAAAiI/GnmZnOoOZGY/s1600/002.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Y5VAgL1c82Y/UzMpiq3JfSI/AAAAAAAAAiI/GnmZnOoOZGY/s1600/002.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Scamp asking for some coffee and a roll up![/td][/tr]
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Things went very well yesterday, we all did some great climbing. However, each one of us left (apart from Fred who was marked absent this week) with unfinished business. Hopefully to be finished some time soon. Maybe this weekend. If not, next Tuesday.
Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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26 years older and wiser (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2014/04/26-years-older-and-wiser.html)
27 April 2014, 1:08 pm
26 years is a very long time.
That's how long it is since we last went to Chulilla, near Valencia in Spain. We drove up for a day from Calpe with Ralphy and Mavis. We weren't impressed. We did some scratty, hard little climbs opposite the main car park in the village. We went for a walk, had a look around the gorge and were amazed at the potential. However, we drove the 3 hours back to Calpe and promptly forgot about the place.
Needless to say, there has been a lot of development in the last few years. Steady Eddie, Rich Kirby and Steve Crowe have all raved about the place. So, we decided to go and check it out this Easter.
We had a great time. However, it wasn't great for Elaine's finger, as most of the climbing is on small edges (though we did find some excellent tufa routes to keep her happy). However, once I got more used to the style of climbing I was as happy as the proverbial pig in shit, after failing on three 7a+'s on the first day!! Luckily, the harder routes were "easier", though there seems to be a lot of sandbagging hype on UKC users logbooks. I have to say, I found the climbing hard; the fingery climbing, slippery rock and the long routes meant you had to really concentrate for ages on each ascent. The location is really beautiful and it is perfect in a camper van. It's such a shame that there is litter everywhere and there are so many dogs at the crag.
I was happy with my tick list after 10 days of climbing: Danos Colaterales (7b+ os), Nivelungalos (7c), Los Caminantes (7c os), El Diablo Viste de Prana (7c+), Moon Safari (7c+), El Bufa (8a) and Tequila Sunrise (8a).
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3QwRXrT6vG8/U1z9FNjLcxI/AAAAAAAAAig/mn9WK6Wk5jI/s1600/019.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3QwRXrT6vG8/U1z9FNjLcxI/AAAAAAAAAig/mn9WK6Wk5jI/s1600/019.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Looking towards El Balcon from El Balconcito[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0DQwVVTzA4Y/U1z9WdVxDFI/AAAAAAAAAio/hJcU_XkJrUc/s1600/026.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0DQwVVTzA4Y/U1z9WdVxDFI/AAAAAAAAAio/hJcU_XkJrUc/s1600/026.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Pampas Finas, a great 40 metre 7a+ warm up at Chorreras[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gGikfMKh6nM/U1z9c04-peI/AAAAAAAAAiw/rJrnBY-skEg/s1600/041.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gGikfMKh6nM/U1z9c04-peI/AAAAAAAAAiw/rJrnBY-skEg/s1600/041.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]A young lad (called Will from Sheffield) making El Bufa (8a) look like a path[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QlJJFavCj1s/U1z9d2RY12I/AAAAAAAAAi4/JQ8c_FWsMQA/s1600/042.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QlJJFavCj1s/U1z9d2RY12I/AAAAAAAAAi4/JQ8c_FWsMQA/s1600/042.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Will higher on the fantastic El Bufa[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HAzrhEoIbGE/U1z91S_lpnI/AAAAAAAAAjA/CwbIFw8oip4/s1600/012.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HAzrhEoIbGE/U1z91S_lpnI/AAAAAAAAAjA/CwbIFw8oip4/s1600/012.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The tricky start to Moon Safari, a mega classic 40 metre 7c+[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sMaTBu4dx_Q/U1z94m1jcfI/AAAAAAAAAjM/xlhba6mjgAg/s1600/025.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sMaTBu4dx_Q/U1z94m1jcfI/AAAAAAAAAjM/xlhba6mjgAg/s1600/025.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Time to celebrate with a chocolate biscuit[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TfTJ1bK7GO8/U1z94SDgTeI/AAAAAAAAAjI/WninUAbNPJs/s1600/034.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TfTJ1bK7GO8/U1z94SDgTeI/AAAAAAAAAjI/WninUAbNPJs/s1600/034.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]A rare photo of Scamp looking at the camera[/td][/tr]
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Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Only 20 more gets ups! (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2014/05/only-20-more-gets-ups.html)
20 May 2014, 11:26 am
It's a busy day today. I've been to the dentist for a check up (still no improvement with my paralyzed jaw after over 2 years), then I had to get the Control Technique (MOT) done on my van. This afternoon, I need to get 2 new tyres (as it failed the CT) and then I will be going to see Patrick, the kine (physiotherapist), who is nicely sorting out my stiff back. So, no chance of doing any climbing today.
I haven't been out with the Tuesday Club since before Easter. Most of them are now busy working and I've not been very motivated to climb locally. On a positive note, there are only 20 more times that I will have to get out of bed to go to work, before we go off on our travels.
So far, we are going to be visiting the following places during our 14 months off work:
Spain in Jul/Aug;
Kalymnos in Sept;
Iceland in Oct;
China in Nov/Dec;
Sicily in Jan;
skiing in Tignes in early Feb;
Misja Pec in Feb/Mar;
Spain for a few months.
Maybe, even look for a new place to live, as well.
Meanwhile, we have been ticking over at Jurassic Park, Cayenne and Mesa Verde. All the crags in Les Gorges du Loup are now dry and conditions are perfect. Last Sunday, it was nice to do something I hadn't done before. About 10 years ago, I had a brief look at a new 7b+ at Mesa Verde, called Ca va merder. I backed off it, because it was dirty and snappy. Now it is clean and provides great, tricky climbing. Nico did the Projet PHP/Arrowhead connection (a nice 7c). Elaine didn't climb as her finger was quite sore after working Cayenne on Saturday, but she took some nice photos:
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9wVq7_gYDjc/U3s6tJFgbsI/AAAAAAAAAjg/6jBUtYvX7_c/s1600/031.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9wVq7_gYDjc/U3s6tJFgbsI/AAAAAAAAAjg/6jBUtYvX7_c/s1600/031.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_1skGUqz9Go/U3s6tWBOl3I/AAAAAAAAAjk/9a2-r0kPcH8/s1600/035.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-_1skGUqz9Go/U3s6tWBOl3I/AAAAAAAAAjk/9a2-r0kPcH8/s1600/035.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FaPXhFZ-co0/U3s6tvAqMNI/AAAAAAAAAjo/dIj-XX2bt9w/s1600/036.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FaPXhFZ-co0/U3s6tvAqMNI/AAAAAAAAAjo/dIj-XX2bt9w/s1600/036.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8mF8N_26hDc/U3s7CmMVEDI/AAAAAAAAAkA/mqJHPVpfAuY/s1600/037.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-8mF8N_26hDc/U3s7CmMVEDI/AAAAAAAAAkA/mqJHPVpfAuY/s1600/037.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NHWFqrO8rl8/U3s7CflRs-I/AAAAAAAAAj4/KLuVqo4cpPk/s1600/040.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NHWFqrO8rl8/U3s7CflRs-I/AAAAAAAAAj4/KLuVqo4cpPk/s1600/040.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-miRsyJqQ85Y/U3s7CTsNksI/AAAAAAAAAj8/-8t6ix8qic8/s1600/044.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-miRsyJqQ85Y/U3s7CTsNksI/AAAAAAAAAj8/-8t6ix8qic8/s1600/044.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kR2dX8_YuAs/U3s7VBGE-BI/AAAAAAAAAkg/3dDoFaNQZuQ/s1600/019.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kR2dX8_YuAs/U3s7VBGE-BI/AAAAAAAAAkg/3dDoFaNQZuQ/s1600/019.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qhSjVTo5VGo/U3s7Q4cdGvI/AAAAAAAAAkU/A5EkScO_02E/s1600/026.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qhSjVTo5VGo/U3s7Q4cdGvI/AAAAAAAAAkU/A5EkScO_02E/s1600/026.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h0xPnAXl_ok/U3s7QTe8oEI/AAAAAAAAAkQ/XedAXXLQ81s/s1600/027.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h0xPnAXl_ok/U3s7QTe8oEI/AAAAAAAAAkQ/XedAXXLQ81s/s1600/027.jpg)
Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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CLIMB NOW WORK LATER (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2014/07/its-so-long-since-i-last-wrote-in-my.html)
16 July 2014, 1:48 pm
It's so long since I last wrote in my blog, but we've been ticking over in the Gorges du Loup. There have been some fine additions at Mesa Verde, for example Beer Fest (a short, powerful 7b+ equipped by Julien Bouquignaud), Pas de chocolat pour les Nicois font du ski (a long 7c equipped by Guillaume Ciais) and a couple of hard fingery 8a+'s equipped by the super prolific local legend Axel Franco.
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-G3pYStO5hSQ/U8aCDCKqNuI/AAAAAAAAAl4/-HmVS6oEuS0/s1600/20140608_163318.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-G3pYStO5hSQ/U8aCDCKqNuI/AAAAAAAAAl4/-HmVS6oEuS0/s1600/20140608_163318.jpg)(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-58Ktwe7vOoA/U8aAKwLErZI/AAAAAAAAAlA/b2Bj04zSP-s/s1600/P1060857.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-58Ktwe7vOoA/U8aAKwLErZI/AAAAAAAAAlA/b2Bj04zSP-s/s1600/P1060857.JPG)
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cpunhs2EpJw/U8aAO4LkfAI/AAAAAAAAAlI/JFe7oKU6mPM/s1600/P1060972.JPG) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cpunhs2EpJw/U8aAO4LkfAI/AAAAAAAAAlI/JFe7oKU6mPM/s1600/P1060972.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]2 views of Beer Fest. Hardin at the start and Yannick at the end (thanks to Marie-Jo Centofanti/Voyages a le Verticale).[/td][/tr]
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At last we've finally reached the end of the school year and are ready to set off on our travels. First destination was a long weekend in Britain, visiting family and friends. As usual Ewan and Brenna were as generous as ever putting us up in fine style. It was lovely meeting up with my little sis Jessica, for Sunday roast at the The Walton Arms, where Elaine and I had our wedding reception nearly 33 years ago. Also it was great to see Nige Hunt, who popped down with Jenny and his two boys, to share a beer. We were shown Pete Chadwick's baby sitting skills, though we quickly made our excuses and left when he started singing "Old McDonald had a farm" to Naz's baby Sam.
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jzyGYVK0cG4/U8aBusbkyeI/AAAAAAAAAlw/b_YsMzer7Qw/s1600/10552460_10202110019984666_8424851062790084823_n.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jzyGYVK0cG4/U8aBusbkyeI/AAAAAAAAAlw/b_YsMzer7Qw/s1600/10552460_10202110019984666_8424851062790084823_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]We all live in a .......[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n2YCOjt64RU/U8aA3EkgGII/AAAAAAAAAlQ/O2YGGgnD43s/s1600/003.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-n2YCOjt64RU/U8aA3EkgGII/AAAAAAAAAlQ/O2YGGgnD43s/s1600/003.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Where we had our wedding reception in 1981![/td][/tr]
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Of course a trip to Liverpool wouldn't be complete without visiting the Hangar. We love that place! I'm sure if it was down here we wouldn't go climbing outdoors as much. It is brilliant to go and do new circuits every time we go there. Well done to Ged and his staff for making so many great problems and being so friendly. Elaine's finger was still swollen after straining it the week before at Mesa Verde, so she decided not to climb (which was probably the sensible thing to do, but I know she was very disappointed and frustrated).
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PqVcindRib4/U8aBLaqDkKI/AAAAAAAAAlY/BqNHyxfkb7w/s1600/10438461_10202110025064793_7241420745797222895_n.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-PqVcindRib4/U8aBLaqDkKI/AAAAAAAAAlY/BqNHyxfkb7w/s1600/10438461_10202110025064793_7241420745797222895_n.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FSoRX4PD4mc/U8aBTlBLXgI/AAAAAAAAAlg/rmPZbqvdyMI/s1600/20140715_143525.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FSoRX4PD4mc/U8aBTlBLXgI/AAAAAAAAAlg/rmPZbqvdyMI/s1600/20140715_143525.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-njmhhNKTil0/U8aBhDqJw8I/AAAAAAAAAlo/Re4QhbSihkE/s1600/20140715_153723.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-njmhhNKTil0/U8aBhDqJw8I/AAAAAAAAAlo/Re4QhbSihkE/s1600/20140715_153723.jpg)
We also went down to Wales. No we didn't get to climb the classics on the Cromlech again, as it was raining steadily all day, but we did get to call in at DMM (makers of the best climbing gear in the cosmos and owners of the coolest logo ever - "Climb now work later"). We chatted for ages with a youthful and fit looking Paul Simkiss. It was just like old times, with lots of banter and plenty of Politically inCorrect jokes thrown in for good measure!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YH5b8SyaqIw/U8aCVb3HAdI/AAAAAAAAAmA/Ey_tSjP8zhg/s1600/20140716_141838-1.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-YH5b8SyaqIw/U8aCVb3HAdI/AAAAAAAAAmA/Ey_tSjP8zhg/s1600/20140716_141838-1.jpg)
OK so now we are back in France and should be heading off in the camper van tomorrow or Friday towards Asturias. Richie Patterson has written an ace looking topo for this area in northern Spain. Between now and September 2015 we're going to Climb Now and Work Later. Bring it on!
Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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The rain in Spain .... (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2014/08/the-rain-in-spain.html)
17 August 2014, 1:06 pm
We know that we've returned to the Mediterranean because the sky is blue. We've missed the sun so much during the past few weeks.
The main objective was to visit Cantabria and Asturias in northern Spain as a result of buying Richie Patterson's excellent new topo "Roca Verde". However the forecast was bad so we stuck to the sunny side of Spain to begin with.
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-F2J6CFiej44/U_CletjC5mI/AAAAAAAAAnk/WqIiPR4st_E/s1600/054.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-F2J6CFiej44/U_CletjC5mI/AAAAAAAAAnk/WqIiPR4st_E/s1600/054.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The view from our doss spot high above La Hermida, Cantabria[/td][/tr]
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First destination was a fairly new cliff called Culla about an hour north of Valencia. Thanks to Dave and Rhian Cross for the excellent info. However it was very tough on the Scali getting down the 2.5km track to a perfect doss spot overlooking the crag. The crag was in the shade with plenty of wind, we had the place to ourselves and the routes were on fantastic colonettes. Due to the uncertainty of not being able to get the Scali back up the track we decided to drive back up that evening (after doing Mojo Pican, a really nice 7a+, Mojita Matata, a great 7b+ and working a really long 7c). It was touch and go and needed some flat out rally driving to make it back up. We made the long walk the following day instead which was an uphill killer at the end of the day in the full sun. (That day I did one of the best 7c's I've ever done called El Poder del Keler but I couldn't hang on the slopey crux of Generacion del Silencio, 7b+!) After that we decided to go somewhere else with a much shorter walk in.
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aFwUQHDc62s/U_Ci_94ZjEI/AAAAAAAAAmg/yw_MmQ0pm5M/s1600/006.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aFwUQHDc62s/U_Ci_94ZjEI/AAAAAAAAAmg/yw_MmQ0pm5M/s1600/006.jpg)
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qchhTQUc0H0/U_CjOaivxII/AAAAAAAAAnA/g1XGIWAR9nc/s1600/007.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qchhTQUc0H0/U_CjOaivxII/AAAAAAAAAnA/g1XGIWAR9nc/s1600/007.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Tufa paradise[/td][/tr]
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(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kqmYALsy0lQ/U_CjMjyN1WI/AAAAAAAAAmw/rKF5n3oIe2U/s1600/009.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kqmYALsy0lQ/U_CjMjyN1WI/AAAAAAAAAmw/rKF5n3oIe2U/s1600/009.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nGiWRmUVxLo/U_CjLLh67TI/AAAAAAAAAmo/rGeuB0Fqrvw/s1600/017.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nGiWRmUVxLo/U_CjLLh67TI/AAAAAAAAAmo/rGeuB0Fqrvw/s1600/017.jpg)
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nhUZBeB_FhA/U_CjMltHTzI/AAAAAAAAAm0/gp1JSpjuYDI/s1600/10561683_10202190050585381_141087117249484880_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nhUZBeB_FhA/U_CjMltHTzI/AAAAAAAAAm0/gp1JSpjuYDI/s1600/10561683_10202190050585381_141087117249484880_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]El Fronton at Culla from the end of the track (photo by Elaine Owen)[/td][/tr]
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Somewhere we'd never been to was Onati in the Basque. After only 2 minutes walk in I was motivated to do the 2 great looking tufa climbs where you arrive at the crag (Sonata, 7c and Mamba, 8a). However with very high humidity the climbing was hard work and it took me so long to do Sonata (completely pumped and covered in sweat) that I didn't bother even trying Mamba. It was great to make new friends, Gaizka and Sergio were really helpful and always good fun at the crag. Unfortunately, we never saw the sun during the 3 days we were there and we got fed up of the humidity and the rain.
It was finally time to drive on to Asturias at last. Driving along the autopista the scenery reminded us of North Wales. The mountains rise very steeply just a couple of km inland from the Atlantic in much the same way that the Carneddau rise above the villages of Penmaenmawr and Llanfairfechan. There was another similarity in that they were very often hidden by dark clouds and rain!
From the topo we sussed out the places that would keep us entertained: Poo de Cabrales and Rumenes. Both crags have plenty of colos and enough shade for summer cragging. The lower sector at Poo has great short routes from 6b+ to 7a which are super warm ups. The upper "Chorreras" crag is great for onsighting from 7a to 7b+ (the harder routes are not as good). The best routes we did were Mociviellos (6b+), Cencerrada (7a), Alanvista (7a+), Entremedusas (7b) and Kalima (7b+). Richie says that the 7c+ at El Corralito is very good and the 8a+ looks brilliant (though has probably only had one ascent apparently).
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-S6OAy4tBvVw/U_ClLfUS7dI/AAAAAAAAAnU/yQNSYvf0c2I/s1600/040.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-S6OAy4tBvVw/U_ClLfUS7dI/AAAAAAAAAnU/yQNSYvf0c2I/s1600/040.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Dave and Rhian Cross on the 7a+ part of El dia del arquero at Rumenes[/td][/tr]
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Ahhhh, Rumenes. What wonderful climbs there are to do there, long colonettes and not too steep. The canyon is so impressive and there is so much rock everywhere. It is an equippers paradise, if you're prepared to walk some. There will be a lot of development in the coming years. DON'T FORGET TO BUY THE TOPO BECAUSE RICHIE IS DONATING 20% FOR EQUIPPING. PLEASE DON'T PHOTOCOPY.
[tr][td](http://rocaverdeclimbing.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/IMG_3703-Mike-1.jpg) (http://rocaverdeclimbing.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/IMG_3703-Mike-1.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Sindrome de Stendhal, 50m of tufa heaven makes a great 8a (photo by Richie Patterson)[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-daKZNlXfi3U/U_ClJ68WagI/AAAAAAAAAnM/8gtSyclWRbk/s1600/034.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-daKZNlXfi3U/U_ClJ68WagI/AAAAAAAAAnM/8gtSyclWRbk/s1600/034.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Jan from Czech Republic on the brilliant Rumenes power y al vino, 7a+[/td][/tr]
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(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-efUDB9X7zZQ/U_ClVezAEhI/AAAAAAAAAnc/HwQhu6sPtxw/s1600/036.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-efUDB9X7zZQ/U_ClVezAEhI/AAAAAAAAAnc/HwQhu6sPtxw/s1600/036.jpg)
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-l6eVGOMHPJc/U_Clnov0AyI/AAAAAAAAAns/PJNpG4cBXj8/s1600/063.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-l6eVGOMHPJc/U_Clnov0AyI/AAAAAAAAAns/PJNpG4cBXj8/s1600/063.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Asia from Poland flashing the excellent Cinderella Man, 7c[/td][/tr]
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(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZGoa1c8qI80/U_ClppmY8pI/AAAAAAAAAn0/ZxUe9iy8l_c/s1600/065.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZGoa1c8qI80/U_ClppmY8pI/AAAAAAAAAn0/ZxUe9iy8l_c/s1600/065.jpg)
All the climbs at sector Chorreras are well worth doing, especially Rumenes power y al vino (one of the best 7a+'s anywhere) and the 50m 8a classic Sindrome de Stendhal. There are plenty of places to park up in the camper van in peace. On rest days the food and beer is very cheap in the climbers bar in La Hermida (Posada la Cuadrona) and there is a hot spring under the bridge.
We didn't get to Teverga which is the other must go to destination, though much more sunnier. That'll be at the top of the list for next time. The region is one of the most beautiful places I have ever been to, the climbing is fantastic and the topo is amazing and so inspiring. I can't wait to go back.
Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Herve Gourdel, climber and ordinary citizen (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2014/09/herve-gourdel-climber-and-ordinary.html)
27 September 2014, 3:00 pm
One of the most moving things Elaine and I have ever seen was the silent march in Nice today, to pay respect to our friend Herve Gourdel. There were several thousand people walking the route from the port to la Theatre Verdure. Most of us were carrying large colour portraits of Herve and white roses, provided specially by the city of Nice for this special occasion. The culmination was a very moving speech by one of the mountain guides he worked with.
The barbaric murder of Herve has led to widespread condemnation throughout France and it is not just the climbing community that is in shock and in mourning. It seems everybody has been stunned by the wicked act of the terrorists in Algeria. Francois Hollande has declared 3 days of mourning and there are marches being held throughout France to show how the nation feels.
I was lucky enough to have worked with Herve a few times over the years, on outdoor activity trips with students here on the Cote d'Azur. I shall always remember his calm approach to his work, his amazing attitude towards life and the environment and of course his wonderful smile. Also, it was always a pleasure to bump into him at the crag and trade tales (like climbers do).
Herve will be missed by so many and my thoughts are with his family. Goodbye dear friend. RIP.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Fg2rGRqSqL0/VCbQLcXWBUI/AAAAAAAAAoY/4ej-c9_wxZY/s1600/Herve+Gourdel+RIP.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Fg2rGRqSqL0/VCbQLcXWBUI/AAAAAAAAAoY/4ej-c9_wxZY/s1600/Herve+Gourdel+RIP.jpg)
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DYr7eUpVwHM/VCbQQ65TPEI/AAAAAAAAAog/JPXcGequaGc/s1600/Herve+Gourdel+RIP+2.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DYr7eUpVwHM/VCbQQ65TPEI/AAAAAAAAAog/JPXcGequaGc/s1600/Herve+Gourdel+RIP+2.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]
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Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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RIP Scamp (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2014/09/whilst-we-were-on-kalymnos-our-lovely.html)
27 September 2014, 4:12 pm
Whilst we were on Kalymnos our lovely Scamp died!
Since January we had known that she had a heart murmur and the vet said we might need to take it a bit easier with Scamp. In fact he went as far as to say that she may even have a heart attack at any moment or maybe not. We just assumed that she'd keep going at her usual max speed for several more years.
Unfortunately, it wasn't to be. We received the awful news on Kalymnos. We were absolutely devastated. However, it must have been equally upsetting for poor Caren who was looking after her and found her.
Scamp was 2 months short of being 12 years old. She was always very stressed out by thunder storms, fireworks, hunters and anything noisy. Interestingly, she did die on the first day of this year's hunting season (i.e. 14th Sept). It appears that she had a heart attack and went peacefully in her sleep on our terrace.
We picked up Scamp's ashes from the vets yesterday and walked up the hill behind our house. We spread them on "Smerl's Rock" (named after our 1st border collie Merlin) at the summit, which was one of her favourite places and has a beautiful view of the Gorges du Loup. She is now "scamping" in paradise.
Thank you Scamp for making us smile and laugh every day for so many years. We will miss you so much.
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-exXVUz4MU8Y/VCbb-wSi3yI/AAAAAAAAAos/bRZN7Wof73E/s1600/Leopard.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-exXVUz4MU8Y/VCbb-wSi3yI/AAAAAAAAAos/bRZN7Wof73E/s1600/Leopard.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Scamp with her favourite toy[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5rBF1vw22h0/VCbb_HFYKLI/AAAAAAAAAow/NYRZXz1FAmU/s1600/Monster.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5rBF1vw22h0/VCbb_HFYKLI/AAAAAAAAAow/NYRZXz1FAmU/s1600/Monster.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Scamp had her own chair![/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KyS9_DmSV9o/VCbd4EM8DsI/AAAAAAAAApA/LpMBR_DfrVg/s1600/chiots1.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-KyS9_DmSV9o/VCbd4EM8DsI/AAAAAAAAApA/LpMBR_DfrVg/s1600/chiots1.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Scamp (far left) with some of her brothers and sisters at the farm.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Eq5Lzhxiuss/VCbd8mfsJAI/AAAAAAAAApI/OG3ZcTi1CWk/s1600/chiots3.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Eq5Lzhxiuss/VCbd8mfsJAI/AAAAAAAAApI/OG3ZcTi1CWk/s1600/chiots3.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Scamp was already used to playing in the snow at the farm.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cswSjbGEBys/VCbf97851AI/AAAAAAAAApU/qNul-5ot4PI/s1600/Scamp+on+Smerl's+Rock.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-cswSjbGEBys/VCbf97851AI/AAAAAAAAApU/qNul-5ot4PI/s1600/Scamp+on+Smerl's+Rock.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Scamp on "Smerl's Rock" where we spread her ashes yesterday.[/td][/tr]
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Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Showed this to the missus we both had a tear in our eye after reading it. Pets eh who'd be with out them..
Condolences to you both.
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Not as good as the 1st time but still flippin' great! (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2014/09/not-as-good-as-1st-time-but-still.html)
28 September 2014, 3:05 pm
It seemed a good idea to go to Kalymnos. According to the topo there should have been a strong northerly wind blowing (called the Meltemi) to keep the humidity down and make climbing in September reasonable.
In reality there was no wind and most of the time the crags were damp and suffering from the Gogarth/LPT soap. Temps were around 32 degrees C and the humidity was up around 80% which made it pretty unpleasant for climbing, lathered in sweat, red faced and panting like a dog each time we tied into the rope!
The outcome was far different from Easter last year. Unfortunately it wasn't possible to do many of the harder routes on my rather long hit list. Still it wasn't a waste of time either. During the 3 weeks we visited lots of different secteurs and climbed lots of amazing steep tufas. Which is what people go to Kalymnos for. We made lots of new friends and even met up with friends we'd not seen for many years.
Despite the heat, the humidity, lots of polished footholds and the crowds I still believe Kalymnos is one of the best places I have climbed at. Where else, for example, can you go and climb amazing 6c's on blobby tufas, like at Ghost Kitchen and Secret Garden? Or have an entire crag to yourselves covered in quality routes, like at Galatiani or Sikati Cave? Or eat fantastic Greek food for 8 Euros per person, like at Noufaro's?
What a pity though that we had to drive to Milan Bergamo again to catch the Ryanair flight and have to suffer the crazy Italian drivers on the autopista around Milan!
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ijyIAUE2YbY/VCgkQ8owvkI/AAAAAAAAApk/Qz1rqBvzXTE/s1600/005.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ijyIAUE2YbY/VCgkQ8owvkI/AAAAAAAAApk/Qz1rqBvzXTE/s1600/005.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Arriving on Kalymnos[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lTvzFp89byY/VCgkipKAi5I/AAAAAAAAAps/n1p-k205oGg/s1600/014.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lTvzFp89byY/VCgkipKAi5I/AAAAAAAAAps/n1p-k205oGg/s1600/014.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Our accomodation (shame about the Swedish witch above!)[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-folzz7Hwf3c/VCgkubVN06I/AAAAAAAAAp0/onbDCcUZ7ls/s1600/022.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-folzz7Hwf3c/VCgkubVN06I/AAAAAAAAAp0/onbDCcUZ7ls/s1600/022.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Tools of the trade[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-16XJP8nXRxg/VCglAnzWtiI/AAAAAAAAAp8/NA7SMj3Lc9A/s1600/008.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-16XJP8nXRxg/VCglAnzWtiI/AAAAAAAAAp8/NA7SMj3Lc9A/s1600/008.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]There's beer![/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FV9F1gqwUG4/VCglMFFzBGI/AAAAAAAAAqE/lidMGI01Uvc/s1600/009.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FV9F1gqwUG4/VCglMFFzBGI/AAAAAAAAAqE/lidMGI01Uvc/s1600/009.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]And good food too![/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IakS64mkjwo/VCgla7fWtaI/AAAAAAAAAqM/4dLvGkmp4xo/s1600/029.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IakS64mkjwo/VCgla7fWtaI/AAAAAAAAAqM/4dLvGkmp4xo/s1600/029.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Our wheels below Ghost Kitchen[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8jmjfPkZftA/VCgl6z1cK_I/AAAAAAAAAqU/FI3dqbhod8w/s1600/011.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8jmjfPkZftA/VCgl6z1cK_I/AAAAAAAAAqU/FI3dqbhod8w/s1600/011.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Andy Chambers on the brilliant Frapogalo (6c) at Secret Garden[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0TdgxD8RR-Q/VCgmLPmb9eI/AAAAAAAAAqc/xhgUrfLLau4/s1600/031.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0TdgxD8RR-Q/VCgmLPmb9eI/AAAAAAAAAqc/xhgUrfLLau4/s1600/031.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Elaine on the tricky Dafni (6c+) at Ghost Kitchen[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nTktlsUX_R4/VCgmTLBAmAI/AAAAAAAAAqk/zCmKt96wHGM/s1600/034.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nTktlsUX_R4/VCgmTLBAmAI/AAAAAAAAAqk/zCmKt96wHGM/s1600/034.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Spot the climber on Morgan (7b+) in Sikati Cave[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PzEW4FWp28Q/VCgmc4oGaHI/AAAAAAAAAqs/UuuLe2eXW6g/s1600/041.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PzEW4FWp28Q/VCgmc4oGaHI/AAAAAAAAAqs/UuuLe2eXW6g/s1600/041.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Surreal landscape in the bottom of Sikati Cave[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pnwu2cuisKk/VCgm_2l69-I/AAAAAAAAAq8/KGLCcyhAsJs/s1600/048.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pnwu2cuisKk/VCgm_2l69-I/AAAAAAAAAq8/KGLCcyhAsJs/s1600/048.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]French climber on the mega Calcite Star Plus (7b+) at Galatiani[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iqrlQlEX-M4/VCgnBLQcLtI/AAAAAAAAArE/qWrxNjUUfGs/s1600/054.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iqrlQlEX-M4/VCgnBLQcLtI/AAAAAAAAArE/qWrxNjUUfGs/s1600/054.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The same French climber on Feuerdorn (7a honest!) at Galatiani[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iAnnp7-cPbk/VCgm5wq9CTI/AAAAAAAAAq0/FzfnkwjPQPA/s1600/068.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iAnnp7-cPbk/VCgm5wq9CTI/AAAAAAAAAq0/FzfnkwjPQPA/s1600/068.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Look at those incredible tufas on Armata Sikati (7b) in Sikati Cave[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3xGzeN1wa5g/VCgnt-iJkKI/AAAAAAAAArU/tBMkC2P5au8/s1600/073.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3xGzeN1wa5g/VCgnt-iJkKI/AAAAAAAAArU/tBMkC2P5au8/s1600/073.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Austrian climber sending one of the best 7c+'s anywhere: Marci Marc in a Force 7 (one of the few days there was actually some wind!). Elaine looks cold![/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ItWTd1vAtc8/VCgnyhy8EmI/AAAAAAAAArc/zWnut01oscY/s1600/20140922_121849.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ItWTd1vAtc8/VCgnyhy8EmI/AAAAAAAAArc/zWnut01oscY/s1600/20140922_121849.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Yours truly at the knee bar rest above all the hard climbing on the mega Gegoune (7c) at Galatiani[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mwlBGFNho7g/VCgndZ8e8aI/AAAAAAAAArM/dM7H2FbOLRg/s1600/20140925_071326.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mwlBGFNho7g/VCgndZ8e8aI/AAAAAAAAArM/dM7H2FbOLRg/s1600/20140925_071326.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Sunrise whilst leaving Kalymnos[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-k9WDGekq5nc/VCgn4VYP-iI/AAAAAAAAArk/P9uARzjy3SA/s1600/017.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-k9WDGekq5nc/VCgn4VYP-iI/AAAAAAAAArk/P9uARzjy3SA/s1600/017.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The view from Ghost Kitchen[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HD9etq7YiiM/VCgn7suemDI/AAAAAAAAArs/xSBx8eARFOc/s1600/056.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HD9etq7YiiM/VCgn7suemDI/AAAAAAAAArs/xSBx8eARFOc/s1600/056.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Telendos from our apartment[/td][/tr]
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Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Funny, I was just reading this thread today, chuckling at the Phil Davidson post ...and then bumped into him at Helsby this afternoon. The Ducati has only just been sold after 30 odd years :)
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Tourists in Iceland (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2014/10/tourists-in-iceland.html)
26 October 2014, 6:30 pm
We've just got back from a really great trip to Iceland, the small island where everything is on a massive scale. If you like mountain and volcanic scenery it is simply stunning. We spent a week travelling in the south of the island. Our original plan was to travel around the whole island but we decided to take things slower and not to spend all the time driving.
Elaine did the usual research before we left. It was perfect timing on her part because we had generally good weather (though of course it was cold) and there was a new moon, so it was great for seeing the Northern Lights (unfortunately we didn't have a good enough camera to take any photos, doooh!).
Iceland itself we soon learnt was very expensive (especially buying food in super markets and eating out in restaurants) and the blokes are very weird as they don't crack onto you when you speak to them and don't show any emotion. We thought they were all just being miserable but we were assured they are just "shy". Also they all pretty much look the same! It took us a while to work out that we couldn't buy beer and wine in the super market. We had to go to the "Vinbudin", where the staff treat you as if you're after something really dodgy, eg buying pr0n movies or trying to score some drugs (not that I have experience of either! Honest!)
Highlights of all the places we visited were:
the plate tectonic boundary at Pingvellir and the bridge between two continents;
the geysir Strokkur and the hot springs;
countless impressive waterfalls such as Gullfoss;
the smoking hot springs at Gunnuhver;
the dormant volcanoe craters of Kenio;
the ice lagoon at Jokulsarlon;
the enormous Vatnajokull glacier;
Skaftafell;
the Eyjafjallajokull volcanoe;
expansive glacier outwash plans such as the awe inspiring Skeidararsandur
and of course seeing the Northern Lights doing their thing. Simply amazing.
We have both decided that we'd love to go back. Twice. Once in summer to discover the interior and walk up some volcanoes and once in the depths of winter to see the glaciers at their best and also the frozen waterfalls. But we'll save it for a couple of years probably.
We had a few days either side of our flights in Liverpool (which allowed us to get our border collie fix by staying with Ewan and Brenna again AND also a couple of cracking sessions at the Climbing Hangar). It was also great to meet up with my 3 sisters as well as catching up with some old friends from so long ago, namely Dave and Sue Wooliscroft and Mike and Rosie Harris.
Next stop: a short 3 week trip to somewhere in Spain on Wednesday (after we've had our last jabs for the China trip). All's going great and according to plan.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wZyjBUbOaWk/VE01W7MM5WI/AAAAAAAAAr8/XklSsDuHo3o/s1600/010.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-wZyjBUbOaWk/VE01W7MM5WI/AAAAAAAAAr8/XklSsDuHo3o/s1600/010.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0ejVgxYzZO8/VE01rScMtbI/AAAAAAAAAsE/y205Gq8GWCI/s1600/012.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0ejVgxYzZO8/VE01rScMtbI/AAAAAAAAAsE/y205Gq8GWCI/s1600/012.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9dC8TgIOqtA/VE016LcmhhI/AAAAAAAAAsM/B4Rwy1ad_ek/s1600/017.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9dC8TgIOqtA/VE016LcmhhI/AAAAAAAAAsM/B4Rwy1ad_ek/s1600/017.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-13OEQO1hPXc/VE02EVOhKzI/AAAAAAAAAsU/KgWApxuNwYk/s1600/024.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-13OEQO1hPXc/VE02EVOhKzI/AAAAAAAAAsU/KgWApxuNwYk/s1600/024.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8pQm87O5Yiw/VE02Vx2-erI/AAAAAAAAAsc/IFczOc0x4Tc/s1600/036.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8pQm87O5Yiw/VE02Vx2-erI/AAAAAAAAAsc/IFczOc0x4Tc/s1600/036.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jIz86dCs0Os/VE02rhWwoWI/AAAAAAAAAsk/T-MBnShalng/s1600/055.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jIz86dCs0Os/VE02rhWwoWI/AAAAAAAAAsk/T-MBnShalng/s1600/055.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8Wlh0__q8y8/VE023Npe4MI/AAAAAAAAAsw/-LkcG3QtdXM/s1600/066.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8Wlh0__q8y8/VE023Npe4MI/AAAAAAAAAsw/-LkcG3QtdXM/s1600/066.jpg)
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(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9Ii4AV2UDog/VE05N8SClBI/AAAAAAAAAuc/rstPJcG1BrA/s1600/165.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9Ii4AV2UDog/VE05N8SClBI/AAAAAAAAAuc/rstPJcG1BrA/s1600/165.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S0da7_Zksew/VE05gKd1oOI/AAAAAAAAAuk/M3c2HkEu7n8/s1600/170.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S0da7_Zksew/VE05gKd1oOI/AAAAAAAAAuk/M3c2HkEu7n8/s1600/170.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WG2nw3NDbuM/VE050z6j7SI/AAAAAAAAAu0/iFVPdvGYc6I/s1600/173.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WG2nw3NDbuM/VE050z6j7SI/AAAAAAAAAu0/iFVPdvGYc6I/s1600/173.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5RCZgzM3qQ8/VE05z-NK4YI/AAAAAAAAAus/P1N9Q2r-YIw/s1600/183.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5RCZgzM3qQ8/VE05z-NK4YI/AAAAAAAAAus/P1N9Q2r-YIw/s1600/183.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RgS8pCH45_8/VE05353ngwI/AAAAAAAAAu8/iDX8LQyUwqs/s1600/225.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-RgS8pCH45_8/VE05353ngwI/AAAAAAAAAu8/iDX8LQyUwqs/s1600/225.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hnr2xRI8r8s/VE06EY6lITI/AAAAAAAAAvE/4F2eAKzE4XU/s1600/226.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-hnr2xRI8r8s/VE06EY6lITI/AAAAAAAAAvE/4F2eAKzE4XU/s1600/226.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3XR9YGAXtm8/VE06Gpmy9mI/AAAAAAAAAvM/ASohjAG6GrM/s1600/236.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3XR9YGAXtm8/VE06Gpmy9mI/AAAAAAAAAvM/ASohjAG6GrM/s1600/236.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lGybRo4cTPQ/VE08mosDYiI/AAAAAAAAAvY/btwbF7J6Gkc/s1600/Becky,+Mike,+Andy+and+Jess+25+Oct+2014.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-lGybRo4cTPQ/VE08mosDYiI/AAAAAAAAAvY/btwbF7J6Gkc/s1600/Becky,+Mike,+Andy+and+Jess+25+Oct+2014.jpg)
Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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A story of 3 BC's (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2014/11/a-story-of-3-bcs.html)
18 November 2014, 10:59 am
I'd just like to start with a small apology. True, we've just had a great time in sunny Spain and I've got some great shots of the Northern Lights from when we saw them at Hofn in Iceland. However, I think the main theme is going to be about dogs, more specifically I'm going to write about the three dogs that have shared their lives with us (hence the apology, because some people might think I'm going on again). We'll see how it all pans out.......
Firstly: The Northern Lights photos. We met a lovely couple from Singapore who were much better prepared with DSLR cameras and tripods to take delay shutter images than us. Here are some of Yuru's photos. They're pretty amazing aren't they?
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VC4B_xnC5S0/VGs_WDOzh_I/AAAAAAAAAvo/r2yD_wvlo5Q/s1600/IMG_1661.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VC4B_xnC5S0/VGs_WDOzh_I/AAAAAAAAAvo/r2yD_wvlo5Q/s1600/IMG_1661.JPG)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8rCIzLKOxUc/VGs_bjbZVHI/AAAAAAAAAvw/hbFW0uqb8yg/s1600/IMG_1668.JPG) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8rCIzLKOxUc/VGs_bjbZVHI/AAAAAAAAAvw/hbFW0uqb8yg/s1600/IMG_1668.JPG)
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8WgmYaH-xOc/VGs_hBrNC2I/AAAAAAAAAv4/IeHYdAIEHSE/s1600/2014-10-21+13.30.15.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8WgmYaH-xOc/VGs_hBrNC2I/AAAAAAAAAv4/IeHYdAIEHSE/s1600/2014-10-21+13.30.15.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]It was very cold and driving conditions were hazardous![/td][/tr]
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Secondly: We ended up at Chulilla after a misty humid day at Llaberia. Weather was mostly great, the climbing was as usual very fingery but fantastic and we met up with lots of friends. Vicki Hau and Eddy Young (from Dorset) shared their superb doss spot with us, thanks guys! Once again, local experts Dave and Rhian Cross gave us useful route info and provided quality humour too. Jean Claude and Michele were an amazing retired couple from Grenoble who stopped a couple of nights with us before heading off to Calpe. Finally we hooked up with Ben Farley and Caryl (not forgetting Marvin the monkey and Paul van diesel) from Liverpool, who are also on a year off travelling and gave us plenty to laugh about during the last few days. It was fantastic to see you all and share great times together. Hopefully we'll see you all again some time soon.
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CDKqpe7RcIY/VGtAKhUU4nI/AAAAAAAAAwI/tunwOELE5rc/s1600/039.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-CDKqpe7RcIY/VGtAKhUU4nI/AAAAAAAAAwI/tunwOELE5rc/s1600/039.jpg)
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(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5mDMf722WY4/VGtAWcSuWLI/AAAAAAAAAwY/Hqn3u1w8W3Y/s1600/041.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5mDMf722WY4/VGtAWcSuWLI/AAAAAAAAAwY/Hqn3u1w8W3Y/s1600/041.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1qBZoV-rdFY/VGtAVSo4GII/AAAAAAAAAwQ/jzAaiX1TyuA/s1600/009.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1qBZoV-rdFY/VGtAVSo4GII/AAAAAAAAAwQ/jzAaiX1TyuA/s1600/009.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V6fG_U4O1yo/VGtAk2dVhtI/AAAAAAAAAwg/8oopMUchuas/s1600/010.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-V6fG_U4O1yo/VGtAk2dVhtI/AAAAAAAAAwg/8oopMUchuas/s1600/010.jpg)
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Kxcb1pok5bk/VGtAspEcBNI/AAAAAAAAAwo/_7GmgxKOr34/s1600/032.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Kxcb1pok5bk/VGtAspEcBNI/AAAAAAAAAwo/_7GmgxKOr34/s1600/032.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Local experts Dave and Rhian Cross[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rrWNAgrpuEo/VGtAtRRut2I/AAAAAAAAAws/a5lqPtUCNgU/s1600/033.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-rrWNAgrpuEo/VGtAtRRut2I/AAAAAAAAAws/a5lqPtUCNgU/s1600/033.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Jean Claude and Michele from Grenoble[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XiIM7L40ZcI/VGtA6OEH62I/AAAAAAAAAw4/AeLwqBnELpE/s1600/062.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XiIM7L40ZcI/VGtA6OEH62I/AAAAAAAAAw4/AeLwqBnELpE/s1600/062.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Scousers Caryl and Ben Farley[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-02n5quaDUBM/VGtBDf1JRRI/AAAAAAAAAxE/njQUV9haGRs/s1600/069.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-02n5quaDUBM/VGtBDf1JRRI/AAAAAAAAAxE/njQUV9haGRs/s1600/069.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Ben on-sighting Las Franceses, 7b+[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1tKA7fKauLs/VGtBDBnzpjI/AAAAAAAAAxA/WcFvVXuiuuQ/s1600/073.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1tKA7fKauLs/VGtBDBnzpjI/AAAAAAAAAxA/WcFvVXuiuuQ/s1600/073.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Caryl cooling down at the end of the day on a 6b[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KreM0x9Vuh0/VGtBup8eePI/AAAAAAAAAxQ/GIdmOw6ccpo/s1600/TC+meets+Marvin.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KreM0x9Vuh0/VGtBup8eePI/AAAAAAAAAxQ/GIdmOw6ccpo/s1600/TC+meets+Marvin.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]TC meets Marvin (Marvin is a "she" by the way) (photo by Elaine)[/td][/tr]
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Thirdly: The nitty gritty. Here goes.
I remember my grandparents having a friendly enough bull terrier called Bundle when I was very young. We even had a dog too, a mongrel called Kim who used to go everywhere with me before she unexpectedly disappeared when I was about 12 (I later found out that she had been put down for biting somebody). After that I definitely didn't like dogs at all. It was simple really. My parents became obsessed with breeding and showing wire haired dachshunds. They had loads, none of which were house trained so the smell was disgusting. I couldn't wait to leave home and get away, which I did when I was 16.
Many care free years passed by and my life with Elaine was blissfully free of dogs (though we often came across farmers working with their amazing sheep dogs when we were climbing here, there and everywhere). However things changed in early 1989. Tony and Jill Flanagan had a lovely border collie called Nell. She was caught short by the local black labrador and soon Tony and Jill were looking for caring people to take Nell's lovely collie cross puppies. We didn't really hesitate and we took a female who we called Del. Del very quickly was seen at all the crags we were going to, mostly Gogarth at the time. We still have a laugh when we recall Darren Hawkins crying out to his then girl friend Del Goodey at Parisella's Cave, "Del, there's a dog named after you!". Unfortunately, our little world collapsed (for the first time) at Tremadoc in early June. Elaine had just led a climb called Merlin Direct. Afterwards I had to go back to the car park and (despite Elaine trying to stop her) Del followed and was struck by a car as she ran across the road. She died in our arms a few minutes later. Obviously we were completely gutted and returned home feeling very sad.
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-biZRvcVzuak/VGtC6fmdXcI/AAAAAAAAAxc/pDXGRrS7ZBc/s1600/Del+14+April+1989.bmp) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-biZRvcVzuak/VGtC6fmdXcI/AAAAAAAAAxc/pDXGRrS7ZBc/s1600/Del+14+April+1989.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Hey Del, there's a dog named after you![/td][/tr]
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A couple of days later, Rosie Harris was on the phone telling us about an advert in a newspaper for border collie pups in Timperly. We chose Veronica, as she was then called, a beautiful black and white merle female with one blue eye and one brown eye. Not surprisingly we called her Merlin.
That summer was amazing. We spent many weeks down in the south west and Merlin went everywhere (apart from Lundy when she stayed with a very caring woman who ran a kennel in Ilfracombe). I remember Elaine insisting on attaching Merlin to a rucksack at the bottom of Sacre Couer before she set off on the sharp end of the rope. We just got back to her in time as the tide was coming in very quickly! It rained on the way back to Ford Escort van and we all got soaked. Back at the tent we stripped off our wet clothes. As I lent forward to pick up some dry ones a warm wet tongue quickly licked my arse. When I turned round alarmed, Merlin was licking her lips!
We had a particularly great time with Chris Craggs, Sherri Davy and Colin Binks at the Count House in Bosigran. Colin and Merlin used to run around the whole place for hours, tiring each other out and having great fun whilst we dozed after climbing.
Merlin became an almost permanent fixture at the "in vogue" Malham Cove and provided much light hearted relief from the stresses of red pointing projects. She'd run at full pelt along the catwalk through TPM's legs, in order to hassle the tourists into throwing her a stick or she'd spend ages just standing in the beck, barking and wagging her tail whilst people threw stones into the water! I remember Tom Herbert telling us that his friend who took him to the Cove on his first visit said, "That dog is always here, it must live here".
On another occasion Steve Petro and Lisa Gnade were over from the US. They took Merlin to Kilnsey whilst we spent the day at work. At the crag Chris Gore promptly said to them, "You must be staying at Mike and Elaine's because that's Merlin".
When we moved over to France Merlin was already ten years old but the warmer and drier climate gave her renewed vitality. She was very soon a favourite with lots of the local climbers and on non-climbing days we'd go out "scamping" and discovering the local area for hours.
However in the summer of 2002, Merlin really started to slow down and we'd sadly have to leave her at home more often than not. By Christmas she had developed cancer in her spleen, which ruptured causing the cancer to spread into her lymphatic system and intestines. In the end she could hardly walk and I'd have to pick her up to take her out to go to the toilet. We had to make the awful decision to have her put to sleep. That night, whilst we were putting up the tree and decorations, she had a burst of energy and kept bringing us a tennis ball. We were in tears because we knew what was going to happen the next morning. But by the morning it was obviously the humane thing to do. We arrived at the vets and we lay her on the table. As the vet connected her to the drip we stroked and caressed her and soothed her with loving words as we watched her pupils dilate and her body become limp. Afterwards all three of us were hugging each other and the tears were in full flow. We returned home and spent a very sad Christmas on our own in a very quiet house. Our little world had collapsed for the second time after almost 14 fun filled glorious years with Merlin.
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zi0dkD7Em7o/VGtEbFAcCLI/AAAAAAAAAx0/Na_y_iuqLdg/s1600/Merlin+at+the+Count+House,+Bosigran,+Aug+89.bmp) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-zi0dkD7Em7o/VGtEbFAcCLI/AAAAAAAAAx0/Na_y_iuqLdg/s1600/Merlin+at+the+Count+House,+Bosigran,+Aug+89.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Merlin at the Count House waiting to play with Binksy (photo by Chris Craggs)[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-audDXIQmC7I/VGtD3dg1TXI/AAAAAAAAAxk/97NUL_k0chY/s1600/Merlin,+Watlose+dry+valley+early+in+1990.bmp) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-audDXIQmC7I/VGtD3dg1TXI/AAAAAAAAAxk/97NUL_k0chY/s1600/Merlin,+Watlose+dry+valley+early+in+1990.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Merlin in her element, running free in Watlose dry valley above Malham[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iBUwHj7M4Tw/VGtEFKyoH5I/AAAAAAAAAxs/tb8Dqasy728/s1600/Merlin+up+Castellet+Christmas+2001.bmp) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-iBUwHj7M4Tw/VGtEFKyoH5I/AAAAAAAAAxs/tb8Dqasy728/s1600/Merlin+up+Castellet+Christmas+2001.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Merlin smiling as usual[/td][/tr]
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At some point during the Christmas holiday I was out trying to climb at Castillon with Marie-Jo (Elaine was stuck at home because she'd damaged a knee very seriously and was on crutches). Marie-Jo's cat had recently passed away and we were both feeling very sad and we were trying to cheer each other up as best as we could. She suggested we get another dog. Later Marie-Jo found a website and Elaine got working on the case. She found a farmer near Ceuse who had 2 female pups. We went up to see them and (to cut a very long story short) we started the next chapter of our lives with Scamp (named because we used to take Merlin out "scamping").
I've written lots about our time with Scamp in my recent blogs and about our little world collapsing for a third time in September, after less than 12 years together. We are still very much missing Scamp but we keep finding her hairs everywhere, which makes us chuckle and remember all the good times with her.
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gq96_pFVvoM/VGtFhBJIwkI/AAAAAAAAAyA/WUOWwZFCIo8/s1600/baby+Scamp+sleeping.bmp) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gq96_pFVvoM/VGtFhBJIwkI/AAAAAAAAAyA/WUOWwZFCIo8/s1600/baby+Scamp+sleeping.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Baby Scamp sleeping after a hard day[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OnJBUf2BDJI/VGtFjaQN8PI/AAAAAAAAAyI/lJNPZf1tjj0/s1600/Scamp+and+her+toys.bmp) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-OnJBUf2BDJI/VGtFjaQN8PI/AAAAAAAAAyI/lJNPZf1tjj0/s1600/Scamp+and+her+toys.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]How cute can I make myself look?[/td][/tr]
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When the time is right we'll get another border collie for sure. In the meantime TC (our Ultimate Travel Dog) goes everywhere with us!
Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Climbing in Yangshuo (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2014/12/climbing-in-yangshuo.html)
14 December 2014, 9:03 am
During our year off work we decided to go and see Elaine's brother Dave and his wife Jenny in Shanghai. We got half price tickets from Air France during a promotion early in the year for 1040 euros in total. We also decided to combine the visit with climbing in Yangshuo.
After an 11 hour flight from Paris we went straight to Jenny's parents place in the ancient town of Xin Chang, where BaBa had prepared us our first Chinese meal which included spring rolls, dumplings and chicken and green beans in ginger. Afterwards BaBa took Dave and I on his small motorbike down to the local market (yes there were 3 of us on the bike and none of us wore helmets!). Dave was only too keen to point out the delicacies, eg. pigs' noses, chickens' feet, ducks' heads (including beaks), pigs' intestines, skinned frogs, turtles and so many different types of fish!
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gKBWgn-5ZIw/VI1LDtPQLoI/AAAAAAAAAyY/zlR1Ymsa_-U/s1600/012.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gKBWgn-5ZIw/VI1LDtPQLoI/AAAAAAAAAyY/zlR1Ymsa_-U/s1600/012.jpg)
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(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oL6yr4ULuWE/VI1LNrK6haI/AAAAAAAAAyo/Vl3Vf_TS-xw/s1600/020.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-oL6yr4ULuWE/VI1LNrK6haI/AAAAAAAAAyo/Vl3Vf_TS-xw/s1600/020.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wV4JfwX2ow4/VI1LW9oXL_I/AAAAAAAAAyw/MMsThFj2fKM/s1600/014.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wV4JfwX2ow4/VI1LW9oXL_I/AAAAAAAAAyw/MMsThFj2fKM/s1600/014.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nChf8DO6WO0/VI1LXgvaK6I/AAAAAAAAAy4/UuNEFhagYc4/s1600/027.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nChf8DO6WO0/VI1LXgvaK6I/AAAAAAAAAy4/UuNEFhagYc4/s1600/027.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mNPp8tqkFVY/VI1LfwXj4AI/AAAAAAAAAzA/uecTDwUCqeo/s1600/029.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mNPp8tqkFVY/VI1LfwXj4AI/AAAAAAAAAzA/uecTDwUCqeo/s1600/029.jpg)
That evening BaBa and MaMa prepared a massive meal of at least 10 different dishes and we were introduced to the older and most important members of the family. The food was amazing though the "Yellow Wine" was absolutely disgusting. That night we tried to get over our jet lag with stuffed bellies.
Next day we moved to Dave and Jenny's apartment in the new part of Pu Dong about 45 minutes drive away. We noticed straight away a massive increase in traffic noise and tooting horns as well as a marked decrease in air quality. I suppose it's understandable as 23.5 million people live in Shanghai!
It was with relief that we finally left the city on the 4th day and took a flight to Guilin and then a taxi on to Yangshuo. We had booked a room in a small hotel opposite the world famous Moon Hill cliff about 6 km south of Yangshuo, which proved to be a very smart move as it was much quieter and cleaner than in Yangshuo town.
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sLMixKyZ2c8/VI1L_kelFNI/AAAAAAAAAzI/644fMUf_3ds/s1600/034.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-sLMixKyZ2c8/VI1L_kelFNI/AAAAAAAAAzI/644fMUf_3ds/s1600/034.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The view from our balcony[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5fETE-mHZMQ/VI1MLTVRmaI/AAAAAAAAAzQ/T5q71hNTovo/s1600/046.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5fETE-mHZMQ/VI1MLTVRmaI/AAAAAAAAAzQ/T5q71hNTovo/s1600/046.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Pu Yue Ju, our lovely hotel [/td][/tr]
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Next morning we hiked up the steps for 30 mins to arrive at the cliff, which consists of an arch with lots of stalactites hanging down offering steep climbing on good holds. Whilst our initial impression was that it was pretty small, compared to the crags we climb on in Europe, it looked as though we'd have lots of fun nonetheless. However on closer inspection we noticed that all the first and many of the second bolts had been removed. That was definitely a bad thing as it meant I'd have to climb higher before clipping the rope in for safety. So we started off with an easy 6a on the right and then Elaine would clip the rope into the lowest bolt of the next route as she lowered down and that way we'd be able to top rope the starts. We did three nice warm ups and then I decided to go for it on Over the Moon (Todd Skinner's famous 7b+) despite the absence of the 1st and 2nd bolts. The climbing up to the 3rd bolt at 8 metres was precarious at about 6b+. After that it really steepened up but the holds were great and there were plenty of knee bar rests (plus all the bolts were in). Unfortunately half way up the climb two park officials arrived and told us to stop climbing. Each time I clipped a bolt they shouted "Hello, come down, no climbing". They didn't understand that I had to get to the chain in order to come down. Eventually I lowered down, stripped the draws and then we had to pack in. We didn't climb there again and I didn't get to do Red Dragon (8a/8a+) which was my main objective for the trip. I was absolutely gutted!
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NcrlD6IL1YA/VI1MzIIPgPI/AAAAAAAAAzY/6sPKb2WZEzM/s1600/20141125_112621.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-NcrlD6IL1YA/VI1MzIIPgPI/AAAAAAAAAzY/6sPKb2WZEzM/s1600/20141125_112621.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Moon Hill and the view towards our hotel. Over the Moon climbs up the right side of the arch (photo by Elaine)[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VLaQKMTJ5Yw/VI1M9OHoGYI/AAAAAAAAAzg/dHRqtc4iOsE/s1600/039.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VLaQKMTJ5Yw/VI1M9OHoGYI/AAAAAAAAAzg/dHRqtc4iOsE/s1600/039.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Raul from Andalucia on Seb Grieve's Honky Tonk (7c) at Lei Pi Shan[/td][/tr]
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After that we had to climb at lots of other crags, sometimes walking or using a bicycle to get there. At this point, I have to say that we were generally disappointed with most of the places we climbed and we did find ourselves counting down the days until we could escape. Most crags were very over rated and only had a handful of climbs. Most climbs were super polished. Lei Pi Shan and White Mountain were the most polished, despite (or because of) having some really great climbs. It was utterly frustrating to fall off 7a's and 7b's because your feet zipped off the glassy footholds. I completely lost my normal confidence and dared not try anything hard. Another irritating factor was the topo. "Yangshuo Rock Climbs" has to be the worst climbing guide we have ever had the misfortune to use (even worse than the Alpes Maritimes topo and that's saying something!). We found the maps, directions and hand drawn topos totally inaccurate and the route descriptions were full of unhelpful American hype.
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ajVGh1nCJOM/VI1O5iEvIGI/AAAAAAAAA0A/TOSrhKgYbhM/s1600/20141208_135401.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ajVGh1nCJOM/VI1O5iEvIGI/AAAAAAAAA0A/TOSrhKgYbhM/s1600/20141208_135401.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The Stone Dog, 6a+ at White Mountain (photo by Elaine)[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KMkR1phuaC0/VI1O6KZx7fI/AAAAAAAAA0E/c2zNmD4YgfM/s1600/20141208_140058.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KMkR1phuaC0/VI1O6KZx7fI/AAAAAAAAA0E/c2zNmD4YgfM/s1600/20141208_140058.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Merry Christmas, 6c at White Mountain (photo by Elaine)[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NJ6Gq4q0Mvo/VI1O1v600qI/AAAAAAAAAz4/DAuhRELv2w4/s1600/20141208_140306.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NJ6Gq4q0Mvo/VI1O1v600qI/AAAAAAAAAz4/DAuhRELv2w4/s1600/20141208_140306.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Korea No. 1, 8a at White Mountain (photo by Elaine)[/td][/tr]
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Eventually we returned to the noise and smog of Shanghai. Dave and Jenny gave us a great tour taking in the incredible views of the sky scrapers and then we boarded the plane to Paris. We'd had a great adventure and we were actually a bit sad to leave. However, during the flight down to Nice I sat next to a window and watched the sunrise. As we headed south we flew past les Alpes, Le Lac St Croix, over the Gorges du Blavet and over the Esterel, over Ile St Margeurite and Cap d'Antibes. It was a beautiful morning, the sky was clear and blue. It reminded me how lucky we are to live in such a lovely part of the world and it was great to be back home!
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-i16keh-BKrE/VI1Qw0srUVI/AAAAAAAAA0Y/vjiOqqH-TEM/s1600/20141208_182454.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-i16keh-BKrE/VI1Qw0srUVI/AAAAAAAAA0Y/vjiOqqH-TEM/s1600/20141208_182454.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The weary climbers returning from White Mountain[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zvT_B1pdQrQ/VI1Q-nysxyI/AAAAAAAAA0g/Sxsg0hso0BA/s1600/054.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-zvT_B1pdQrQ/VI1Q-nysxyI/AAAAAAAAA0g/Sxsg0hso0BA/s1600/054.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Jenny and Dave[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3qqCsZ2hxcI/VI1RBezrY1I/AAAAAAAAA0o/ohWecYm5iWA/s1600/053.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3qqCsZ2hxcI/VI1RBezrY1I/AAAAAAAAA0o/ohWecYm5iWA/s1600/053.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Brother and sister are very alike[/td][/tr]
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(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-g3gUkHhs3A4/VI1RNoLafrI/AAAAAAAAA0w/ARUUiaoXni4/s1600/062.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-g3gUkHhs3A4/VI1RNoLafrI/AAAAAAAAA0w/ARUUiaoXni4/s1600/062.jpg)
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sziq6SCGYBo/VI1RPfkzjWI/AAAAAAAAA04/6FYdiv1Lg0Q/s1600/074.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sziq6SCGYBo/VI1RPfkzjWI/AAAAAAAAA04/6FYdiv1Lg0Q/s1600/074.jpg)
PS
Yesterday we looked at some 14 week old border collie puppies. We chose a tricoloured female who we've called Ruff (because Scamp used to ruff when she barked). We are going back to pick her up next Saturday after our short visit to Liverpool. Her first adventure will be in Sicily. Bring it on!
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BnQUj-gHjb0/VI1SA20VZ1I/AAAAAAAAA1E/Xo9QZBoKQlY/s1600/20141213_154345.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BnQUj-gHjb0/VI1SA20VZ1I/AAAAAAAAA1E/Xo9QZBoKQlY/s1600/20141213_154345.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]So beautiful! 3 females left to chose from. Ruff is on the right.[/td][/tr]
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Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Ruff stuff (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2015/01/ruff-stuff.html)
7 January 2015, 11:33 am
We've taken 16 flights and travelled many thousands of miles since we finished work last July. Quite frankly we were both pretty tired and wanted to just chill out at home for a few weeks over Christmas and New Year. So we had the perfect opportunity to find ourselves another border collie. I haven't been so happy for a long time!
Losing Scamp had put me in a very melancholy mood for a few months, despite all the fun we were having on our travels. (That is the sort of thing that us depression sufferers have to put up with from time to time.) It just wasn't right that we hadn't been there when she died and we couldn't just go and get another dog straight away. Now all our flights are finished and we're going to be travelling in the Cali from now on. So we've been spending quality time with Ruff and trying our best to get her used to travelling, which has had it's ups and downs. Typically we have had to stop and clean up the mess inside my poor Renault van twice on our way to the cliff or climbing wall! But she is getting better.
Otherwise, Ruff is settling in well at home and is getting used to going out for walks and meeting different people. She is making us very happy and healing our broken hearts.
Next week Eddie and Mandy Martinez will be arriving on the Cote d'Azur, then we'll be going on to Sicily for about 6 weeks. We can't have Mark Hetherington having all the fun and being the only one to climb all the best routes out there!!
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BvJj-jfd7GM/VK0UHnWHhiI/AAAAAAAAA2c/y8-1kUDu-kw/s1600/10866014_10152934540522152_4995961410871647871_o.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-BvJj-jfd7GM/VK0UHnWHhiI/AAAAAAAAA2c/y8-1kUDu-kw/s1600/10866014_10152934540522152_4995961410871647871_o.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Great to catch up with the Chadster at the Climbing Hangar in Liverpool[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-InCHRlvzZLc/VK0UEh6E3RI/AAAAAAAAA2U/rGyKMWLgZNU/s1600/1385435_10152934557547152_3961274730658318156_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-InCHRlvzZLc/VK0UEh6E3RI/AAAAAAAAA2U/rGyKMWLgZNU/s1600/1385435_10152934557547152_3961274730658318156_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Great to see so many old friends from the Liverpool area[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cxVO5PzDn8I/VK0UR4xHOkI/AAAAAAAAA2g/NFXI47PXmbM/s1600/P1080583.JPG) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cxVO5PzDn8I/VK0UR4xHOkI/AAAAAAAAA2g/NFXI47PXmbM/s1600/P1080583.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Elaine climbing a 6c at Chouchou Place (photo by Marie-Jo Centofanti/Voyages a la Verticale)[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TCnW4czsMMw/VK0UUVbZCtI/AAAAAAAAA2o/k7y7v2OWsmw/s1600/P1080645.JPG) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-TCnW4czsMMw/VK0UUVbZCtI/AAAAAAAAA2o/k7y7v2OWsmw/s1600/P1080645.JPG)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Trying a new 7c at Chouchou Place (photo by Marie-Jo Centofanti/Voyages a la Verticale)[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gmEe_Ltl8JA/VK0U2IzhffI/AAAAAAAAA2w/CSEK2SsPmE4/s1600/031.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-gmEe_Ltl8JA/VK0U2IzhffI/AAAAAAAAA2w/CSEK2SsPmE4/s1600/031.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Le Rouret climbers enjoying a raclette chez Owen's[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TbuaUoJLpHM/VK0VACmYrGI/AAAAAAAAA24/BPEkgQvr7a8/s1600/049.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TbuaUoJLpHM/VK0VACmYrGI/AAAAAAAAA24/BPEkgQvr7a8/s1600/049.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]A visit to Smerl's rock on the hill behind our house[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DBgPULfLq0c/VK0V4gO80CI/AAAAAAAAA3E/Yw0dBUIah5Q/s1600/012.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DBgPULfLq0c/VK0V4gO80CI/AAAAAAAAA3E/Yw0dBUIah5Q/s1600/012.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]My dad keeps disturbing me when I'm trying to sun bathe![/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nSHnMO5Y138/VK0WBkThJBI/AAAAAAAAA3M/XLMduse06b0/s1600/005.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nSHnMO5Y138/VK0WBkThJBI/AAAAAAAAA3M/XLMduse06b0/s1600/005.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Whilst mum and dad are (trying) to watch 24 (season 9) I can stretch out on mum's lap[/td][/tr]
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Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Ruffin' it and unfulfilled ambitions in Sicily (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2015/01/ruffin-it-and-unfulfilled-ambitions-in.html)
29 January 2015, 9:24 pm
For a few days my dad and I had been spending some time chilling together in the big blue thing parked in the garage downstairs. I just went along with the flow, it was well worth it coz my dad kept giving me little treats. I was pretty cool about going inside and just listening to him telling me that I was a very good dog. I even put up with his choice of music, it didn't surprise me as I've already been listening to it for a few weeks now. Then, one day, he turned a key thing in the ignition and the big blue thing sprang into life and made lots of noise. That was OK too, because I've been going here, there and everywhere in his little white thing that he has to park on the village car park for a few weeks by now anyway. However, I got the impression that the big blue thing was very special, so I made sure that I didn't have a pee in it whilst my dad was prattling on at me and, once again, my dad said "Ruff, you're a very good dog" and I got even more treats! These humans are so easy to train, it's amazing. My dad will soon be rounding up sheep!
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nFIBvgp-oOg/VMqf6BMBFsI/AAAAAAAAA3c/KBDEFQBsnWo/s1600/033.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-nFIBvgp-oOg/VMqf6BMBFsI/AAAAAAAAA3c/KBDEFQBsnWo/s1600/033.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Me in the big blue thing as we set off for Sicily[/td][/tr]
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Then it all made sense! We all set off on my first adventure. We went off to an island called Sicily which was part of a weird country called Italy. The idea was that my mum and dad were going climbing with my uncle Eddie and auntie Mandy. Don't ask me, alright? Yes, I know, I think it's a bit stupid too but each to their own, I say. Anyway, all was super cool, coz I really love my uncle Eddie and auntie Mandy. They let me get away with so much more than my mum and dad. I can leap all over them and uncle Eddie even lets me fool along with him on his bed. I never get near my mum and dad's bed even though it looks so much more comfortable than mine. At least they allow me to sleep in their bedroom.....
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LT-rnVnUUhU/VMqgKVrCsoI/AAAAAAAAA3k/XrsYY3dPEQM/s1600/038.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-LT-rnVnUUhU/VMqgKVrCsoI/AAAAAAAAA3k/XrsYY3dPEQM/s1600/038.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Me and my uncle Eddie[/td][/tr]
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I could tell my mum and dad were dead excited about this trip and that's why they'd been taking me down the climbing wall so many times. My dad had even made a flipping wishlist on that UKClimbing website thing, bless him.
The "voyage" went very well. We drove to Genoa and got on a big boat. We were on that for 21 hours and my mum and dad had to take me up on the deck to the "Fido Park" when I wanted the toilet. Mostly we all just slept and some times my uncle and auntie came to see us in our cabin. Unfortunately, I wasn't allowed in the restaurant or bar, I'm so glad we live in France!
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WoREkv0HFi0/VMqkkVuC2PI/AAAAAAAAA44/rBKZ2ccg34Y/s1600/Eddie+and+Mandy+in+Sicily.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WoREkv0HFi0/VMqkkVuC2PI/AAAAAAAAA44/rBKZ2ccg34Y/s1600/Eddie+and+Mandy+in+Sicily.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]My uncle Eddie and auntie Mandy[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J-rV3rBFsKg/VMqknA3B4PI/AAAAAAAAA5A/xlmI3Me9Epk/s1600/Elaine,+Eddie,+Ruff+and+Mike+in+Sicily.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-J-rV3rBFsKg/VMqknA3B4PI/AAAAAAAAA5A/xlmI3Me9Epk/s1600/Elaine,+Eddie,+Ruff+and+Mike+in+Sicily.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Me with my mum, uncle Eddie and my dad[/td][/tr]
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When we got off the boat, I could tell my dad wasn't happy. He was moaning at the poor road signs and having lots of trouble finding the way. He said something like "FFS, where's the f...... the autostrada?" We drove to what seemed like a lovely beach near St Vito Lo Capo, after giving up trying to find some friends called Nat and Pat at a cliff near a horrible place called Mondello.
When we woke up, we discovered that the place was covered in loads of broken glass. At least there was lots of sheep poo to eat!
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-x0YLMoY5eks/VMqg4S3VezI/AAAAAAAAA38/oMU0eAeUrE0/s1600/046.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-x0YLMoY5eks/VMqg4S3VezI/AAAAAAAAA38/oMU0eAeUrE0/s1600/046.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]My mum leading at Parco Cerriola in the sun![/td][/tr]
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The first day was great fun. The sky was blue and it was nice and warm. My mum and dad were really happy too. Then my dad got really pissed off as he couldn't hold on to the holds on an easy 7b climb that was covered in what he called "Gogarth soap". Next day was not so good and my mum and dad just got a warm up done before the heavens opened and we had to go and chill out in The Climbing House where Ivan made lots of fuss over me, it was much nicer than being at the crag.
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MwqLufkUjNA/VMqgUTGWXrI/AAAAAAAAA3s/_pvW-zTcz6U/s1600/001.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MwqLufkUjNA/VMqgUTGWXrI/AAAAAAAAA3s/_pvW-zTcz6U/s1600/001.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The main street in St Vito during the first thunder storm[/td][/tr]
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Next day, we went to a big piece of rock apparently called Never Sleeping Wall. My dad is so pathetic, right, he nearly wet his pants when he set eyes on it. However, he was soon moaning again about that Gogarth Soap stuff and he really got angry when he greased off. We went back the next day, too. By all accounts it was a "top day" and my mum and dad didn't find any Gogarth Soap or grease off any holds. They actually managed to do some flipping climbing. Amazing, eh?
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sjTiXMJmHDs/VMqgjTzF8sI/AAAAAAAAA30/aPe0d_BFOd4/s1600/043.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-sjTiXMJmHDs/VMqgjTzF8sI/AAAAAAAAA30/aPe0d_BFOd4/s1600/043.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]My amazing uncle Eddie flashing Il Patrone Nero (7c)[/td][/tr]
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We then had even more rain for a couple of days and we all got pretty bored stuck in the camper van. We even went walking to the Crown of Aragon cliff in the rain, which was fine by me until a nasty Rottweiler dog at the cliff attacked me. I was so glad my mum and dad decided to go back down and not climb there. I was very frightened.
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-J97JFLBCbME/VMqh-DOz_EI/AAAAAAAAA4U/szN78GmJUcg/s1600/058.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-J97JFLBCbME/VMqh-DOz_EI/AAAAAAAAA4U/szN78GmJUcg/s1600/058.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The usual weather[/td][/tr]
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It rained all night but the morning was clear and very windy. So we went back to Never Sleeping Wall. My dad wanted to do Superman, one of the climbs that he'd already greased off. The cliff looked pretty wet. So, to save my dad failing again I decided to bark at the cows. I knew that that would get the attention of the nasty dog that guards them and, sure enough, it soon arrived and barked and barked at us until we packed up and left. I'm so sorry my dad didn't realise one of his dreams, though it wasn't really my fault.
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fCqe0PUOBbw/VMqhU_GvQzI/AAAAAAAAA4E/NBwGbP7EcQs/s1600/002.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fCqe0PUOBbw/VMqhU_GvQzI/AAAAAAAAA4E/NBwGbP7EcQs/s1600/002.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]My dad on Superman[/td][/tr]
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We then drove to a place called Syracusa on the other side of the island. On the way we saw a volcano called Mount Etna, it was very big and covered in snow. Things seemed promising, despite the rain. However, after climbing at 3 supposedly fantastic (but in reality very ordinary) cliffs we'd had enough and decided to leave for home. Guess what the weather was doing all the last day? You guessed right, it was chucking it down.
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y3dYiIhFXzU/VMqhqwDz6eI/AAAAAAAAA4M/Y4DJCPzzP6w/s1600/074.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-y3dYiIhFXzU/VMqhqwDz6eI/AAAAAAAAA4M/Y4DJCPzzP6w/s1600/074.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Me in our cabin on the way home[/td][/tr]
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It's great to be back home, where I've got much more room and I don't get wet all the time and bring in mud on my paws. My mum and dad say that we're going to somewhere called Spain in a couple of days. I hope it's nice and dry and we can get lots of fresh air and sunshine.
Meanwhile, I'll get back to work on training my dad!
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-B2LNOys_O9Y/VMqh_4rIfbI/AAAAAAAAA4c/SrnfYEnotSA/s1600/052.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-B2LNOys_O9Y/VMqh_4rIfbI/AAAAAAAAA4c/SrnfYEnotSA/s1600/052.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The only nice sunset we saw[/td][/tr]
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Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Brilliant!! :clap2:
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Inspiring news from the UK climbing scene (and some punter action in Spain) (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2015/06/shocking-how-quickly-time-passes-but.html)
9 June 2015, 4:47 pm
Shocking how quickly time passes, but that 's nothing new or surprising. What I mean is it's so long since I wrote on this blog.
We've just returned from a nice long journey through Spain, meeting up with lots of great friends and climbing in some ace places.
However, I'd like to mention some truly inspiring news from the UK climbing scene, which Stu Littlefair summed up so perfectly on Facebook by posting something like this:
"Everybody stop what you're doing. Ben Moon has just climbed Rainshadow. Now, carry on."
Most climbers will understand the significance of this news, but non-climbers will need some help. We are talking about a 48 year old bloke succeeding in climbing one of the hardest climbs in Britain. The climb is graded 9a. Ben did his last and only 9a (which has since turned out to be the first climb to be given that grade anywhere in the world) 25 years ago. Ben was the fourth person to climb Rainshadow yesterday. So, there you go. A really amazing achievement by one of the sports legends throughout the last 4 decades. Well done Ben Moon.
Rainshadow is the long extension to the classic Raindogs, which is a very popular and slippery 8a above the Catwalk at Malham Cove (which I did about 50 times before leaving Britain in 1999). I think I'm right in stating that it was originally equipped and tried by Mark Leach in the early '90's. Several years later Steve McClure took up the challenge and finally climbed it in 2003.
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hDW9MuM_JYw/VXcHCO52qsI/AAAAAAAAA5w/XkODUH_HvYc/s640/064.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hDW9MuM_JYw/VXcHCO52qsI/AAAAAAAAA5w/XkODUH_HvYc/s1600/064.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The view on a very cold March day from Ager. [/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pCtRLaDrSb4/VXcf0qgFqeI/AAAAAAAAA7c/HQRvoOvBF3s/s640/20150326_192214.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pCtRLaDrSb4/VXcf0qgFqeI/AAAAAAAAA7c/HQRvoOvBF3s/s1600/20150326_192214.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Ben and Caryl looking so happy after a year travelling and going back to the UK with loads of wonderful memories (photo by Elaine Owen).[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z9vQcqa2S9M/VXcf8G7vb7I/AAAAAAAAA7k/eJPiNIGoCco/s640/20150327_103517.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-z9vQcqa2S9M/VXcf8G7vb7I/AAAAAAAAA7k/eJPiNIGoCco/s1600/20150327_103517.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]A bright and crisp morning at Ager, wonderful and totally FREE! (photo by Elaine Owen).[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8Mst1vmgng4/VXcHMjKE8MI/AAAAAAAAA6A/JC3k1eY_EBw/s640/085.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8Mst1vmgng4/VXcHMjKE8MI/AAAAAAAAA6A/JC3k1eY_EBw/s1600/085.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]All the flowers were coming out towards the end of March.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AtLjCL2fKyE/VXcHFV3bo6I/AAAAAAAAA54/CrJPK2hYyp4/s640/052.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AtLjCL2fKyE/VXcHFV3bo6I/AAAAAAAAA54/CrJPK2hYyp4/s1600/052.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Ruff experiencing some difficulty whilst trying to train Dave and Rhian Cross.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fRxZ9gp7BXs/VXcHNtokaYI/AAAAAAAAA6I/481CJ5MujP8/s640/092.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fRxZ9gp7BXs/VXcHNtokaYI/AAAAAAAAA6I/481CJ5MujP8/s1600/092.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Meeting up with old mates is always great fun, even if they're Porky and the Colonel![/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TEIuWsPvwi0/VXcHjIpgjuI/AAAAAAAAA6Q/J7v2pYevcTI/s640/107.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TEIuWsPvwi0/VXcHjIpgjuI/AAAAAAAAA6Q/J7v2pYevcTI/s1600/107.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Falling asleep with a pine cone in my mouth and my mum is trying to give me the squeaky ball![/td][/tr]
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(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dWAwcrSnXOc/VXcHsa1SmmI/AAAAAAAAA6Y/9lG1qrjrOYs/s640/136.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dWAwcrSnXOc/VXcHsa1SmmI/AAAAAAAAA6Y/9lG1qrjrOYs/s1600/136.jpg)
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YEUetFn4AbY/VXcH76uCHdI/AAAAAAAAA6o/kKAEQNMa3XM/s640/138.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YEUetFn4AbY/VXcH76uCHdI/AAAAAAAAA6o/kKAEQNMa3XM/s1600/138.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]2 photos of Guillaume Bouloumie on his own route, the brilliant Naranga, 8a+ at Super Devotas.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QYxfu4GvbVo/VXcICe1coPI/AAAAAAAAA64/0eKzbAHTRfs/s640/345.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QYxfu4GvbVo/VXcICe1coPI/AAAAAAAAA64/0eKzbAHTRfs/s1600/345.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Steve Crowe on Peril Jaune, a very steep 7c+ at Super Devotas.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lgngZk5r1UY/VXcH61LoUZI/AAAAAAAAA6g/1-8jPZ3KQfI/s640/Peril+jaune+at+Super+Devotas.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lgngZk5r1UY/VXcH61LoUZI/AAAAAAAAA6g/1-8jPZ3KQfI/s1600/Peril+jaune+at+Super+Devotas.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Me at (more or less) the same place as Steve in the previous photo (photo by Steve Crowe).[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FWBfemcnPwA/VXcH8ip5oCI/AAAAAAAAA6s/U0c_4vW0DDo/s640/Coming+down+at+Super+Devotas.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FWBfemcnPwA/VXcH8ip5oCI/AAAAAAAAA6s/U0c_4vW0DDo/s1600/Coming+down+at+Super+Devotas.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Lowering off after a successful red point, Super Devotas is really steep (photo by Elaine Owen).[/td][/tr]
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Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Summer heat in the south of France (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2015/07/summer-heat-in-south-of-france.html)
11 July 2015, 4:24 pm
We actually fancied doing some climbing here, in France, as we've spent most of the last year climbing and travelling abroad.
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q3KrErfM27M/VaE0pXU_tmI/AAAAAAAAA-E/o_4nSnfJERQ/s640/027.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Q3KrErfM27M/VaE0pXU_tmI/AAAAAAAAA-E/o_4nSnfJERQ/s1600/027.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Ruff making short work of her new football![/td][/tr]
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Some great friends from our Liverpool days were in the Vaucluse so we met up and drank quite a bit of wine, ate some great Provencale food and did a bit of climbing at Malaucene. It was fantastic to meet up with the Hewson's, Stewart's and the Brown's. It was wonderful to see that we haven't really changed much in the 35 years we've known each other, we're all still fun-loving, grown-up kids.
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GjdvDRcVExE/VaEvhojnqZI/AAAAAAAAA8A/6z1RDos8yh8/s640/the+Owen%2527s+and+the+Hewson%2527s.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-GjdvDRcVExE/VaEvhojnqZI/AAAAAAAAA8A/6z1RDos8yh8/s1600/the+Owen%2527s+and+the+Hewson%2527s.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Jim and Anita get shown around the Cali by Ruff[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vFtXB82j9r8/VaEvltPheVI/AAAAAAAAA8I/nNXT_LSFC4g/s640/group+photo+at+Vaison+la+Romain.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vFtXB82j9r8/VaEvltPheVI/AAAAAAAAA8I/nNXT_LSFC4g/s1600/group+photo+at+Vaison+la+Romain.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]A yobbo, Lew, Margaret, Barbara and Al[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7cV3lMfVSk8/VaEvs_SJeWI/AAAAAAAAA8Q/19tLKH0NcGE/s640/Al+and+Lew.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-7cV3lMfVSk8/VaEvs_SJeWI/AAAAAAAAA8Q/19tLKH0NcGE/s1600/Al+and+Lew.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Al and Lew still having plenty of banter at the crag[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fCbsDBTZ2X8/VaEvulQ7--I/AAAAAAAAA8Y/cMJ_DomKsxw/s640/Al+and+catapult.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fCbsDBTZ2X8/VaEvulQ7--I/AAAAAAAAA8Y/cMJ_DomKsxw/s1600/Al+and+catapult.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Ruff watches Al taking aim[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IB1DXdFBsEg/VaEvyGk7_JI/AAAAAAAAA8g/PCkpO72WgFo/s640/campsite+in+Vacqueyras.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IB1DXdFBsEg/VaEvyGk7_JI/AAAAAAAAA8g/PCkpO72WgFo/s1600/campsite+in+Vacqueyras.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]the camping municipal in Vacqueyras ("Honestly, it was this big" - thanks Ralphy!)[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LuUwqMmvQjw/VaEv18hSvMI/AAAAAAAAA8o/7muOfaZ3w-g/s640/Lew+climbing+at+Malaucene.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-LuUwqMmvQjw/VaEv18hSvMI/AAAAAAAAA8o/7muOfaZ3w-g/s1600/Lew+climbing+at+Malaucene.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Lew Brown at 72 and still cranking[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MQPqIWfLU3M/VaEv5R3uTmI/AAAAAAAAA8w/OH32h_RIV8E/s640/Lew+and+Margaret.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-MQPqIWfLU3M/VaEv5R3uTmI/AAAAAAAAA8w/OH32h_RIV8E/s1600/Lew+and+Margaret.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]warming up for Mt Ventoux[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KcD8joLIR7U/VaEv7OZt6yI/AAAAAAAAA84/blRuO8dAK_8/s640/Margaret%2527s+tea+cake.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KcD8joLIR7U/VaEv7OZt6yI/AAAAAAAAA84/blRuO8dAK_8/s1600/Margaret%2527s+tea+cake.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Lew didn't know that Mike was given a very large piece of the cake![/td][/tr]
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We wanted to go back to les Vercors and climbed at la Presqu'Ile, despite the horrendous walk in. The crag was a bit disappointing but there were some very good, fingery routes up to 7b. I had a look at le Trouble (8a) at l'Auberge Espagnole. Such a great route with 2 tough sections (a thin smooth wall and a big roof). Unfortunately, it was too hot really, it'll be worth going back for in the autumn.
Next on the list was a hole in the ground, called la Precipice du Corbiere (also in the Vercors), which is guaranteed to be cool even in the height of summer. It was worth calling in to do a nice, tough 7c called Requiem. Not the best crag, not many routes and there were loads of flies. Whilst in that area, something to put you in a very thoughtful and reflective mood is a visit to the Resistance Memorial and Museum nearby in the infamous village of Vassieux-en-Vercors, which was totally destroyed (and the inhabitants massacred) by the nazis during WW2.
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-j7wqfc1Xkdo/VaEwV0nVBDI/AAAAAAAAA9A/35JxMBc6Xng/s640/019.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-j7wqfc1Xkdo/VaEwV0nVBDI/AAAAAAAAA9A/35JxMBc6Xng/s1600/019.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]view from col de la Pousterle[/td][/tr]
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(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lybKyZRhF_Q/VaEwkcU0nwI/AAAAAAAAA9Q/SXpY_ARchw8/s640/022.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lybKyZRhF_Q/VaEwkcU0nwI/AAAAAAAAA9Q/SXpY_ARchw8/s1600/022.jpg)
(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-scktUcGQ_xY/VaEwhaChfII/AAAAAAAAA9I/7OiRVyx2op4/s640/024.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-scktUcGQ_xY/VaEwhaChfII/AAAAAAAAA9I/7OiRVyx2op4/s1600/024.jpg)
Next up was a visit to Briancon. We've climbed there a number of times over the years and never been impressed. The climate is great for climbing on north facing cliffs in summer, but basically the rock is pants! We returned to Tournoux where, once again, I didn't manage to finish the job on Cost of Freedom (a gnarly, polished 8a with a very slopey crux). But we did go to one of the supposed good new crags called Grotte d'Oreac. What a pile of shite that place is, I'll tell you! The whole cliff is held together with tons of red sika, so it's ugly; the routes are very over graded and they're much shorter than in the useless topo. However, it's always nice to park up at col de la Pousterle, where we spent a few blissful nights completely on our own (oh, along with thousands of flies!).
The Gorges du Verdon was calling us back south by then, with the prospect of some newish shaded crags above Moustiers St Marie. We had 4 great days with the crags to ourselves. No surprise really, due to the 40 minute up hill slog to get to Grotte du Monstre and Baume Blanche. Unfortunately, Baume Blanche gets the sun around 13h and Grotte du Monstre is still a bit dirty. However, we did some really fantastic routes, such as "100% Halal" (a very intense 7b+), "Lou des subis" (7b), "Pour toi j'ai bacle" (a 50m 7c), the much harder "Pour toi j'ai beche" (7c+), "Walim" (a 50m 7a+) and an unnamed 7a+. We got hopelessly lost the first time we went up, as we turned of the GR path too soon, even so the path was very hard to find. Subsequently, we made lots of improvements to the path and erected many cairns to show the way (which was desperate work in the full sun). Ah, yes, there were loads of flies in the Verdon too!
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-v3T8dgPZh6M/VaExNVXEEMI/AAAAAAAAA9Y/Y-bdeG_AlCo/s640/lavender+and+the+Verdon.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-v3T8dgPZh6M/VaExNVXEEMI/AAAAAAAAA9Y/Y-bdeG_AlCo/s1600/lavender+and+the+Verdon.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]lavender field near the Verdon[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_GfreKeWqco/VaExPa4K4eI/AAAAAAAAA9g/IA5jJvrOI6I/s640/dashboard.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_GfreKeWqco/VaExPa4K4eI/AAAAAAAAA9g/IA5jJvrOI6I/s1600/dashboard.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]so hot![/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vzJCoGDxszw/VaExRFyl08I/AAAAAAAAA9o/ft0cFJjEvco/s640/apples+and+rice+cakes%2521.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vzJCoGDxszw/VaExRFyl08I/AAAAAAAAA9o/ft0cFJjEvco/s1600/apples+and+rice+cakes%2521.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Whilst our colleagues at school were celebrating the end of the school year, we were eating apples and rice cakes at the crag![/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EeQnqUMkBHA/VaExiQstFhI/AAAAAAAAA9w/Aby1pvHByeU/s640/029.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EeQnqUMkBHA/VaExiQstFhI/AAAAAAAAA9w/Aby1pvHByeU/s1600/029.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Elaine trying to hide from the flies at Baume Blanche[/td][/tr]
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Now we're back home again and there's no flies! It's hot, of course, but it's not too hot in the Gorges du Loup. We climbed at Jurassic Park (2nd time this year) and Cayenne (1st time this year) on Thursday, where I did my favourite 8a+ for the 41st time and "Cayenne" for the nth time/1st time this year. Yesterday, feeling a bit tired, we went to St Martin Vesubie where I dogged my way up "le 7eme ciel integrale" a couple of times; a fantastic 50m monster with a very Malham like crux. I'll definitely go back for that, when it's cooler.
Now, we're making plans to head off towards Arco (heard there's a 40m 7c called Abissi that sounds great), the Dolomites and on to Buzetski Kanjon in Croatia. Loads more fun to be had and we'll be wild camping again, as the Italian campsites are such a rip off!
Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Up and down and round and round in the Dolomites (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2015/08/up-and-down-and-round-and-round-in.html)
2 August 2015, 5:04 pm
Funny how the choices we make affect our lives so much. Take this example from the awesome summer of 1976.
One of my regular climbing partners way back then was Pete White. He was so much older and much more grown up than me, or so I thought at the time! He was 23, whilst I was a mere 18. He had a serious job as a maths teacher, whilst I was working on a building site. However, Pete had a car, whilst I hadn't even had a driving lesson, let alone passed my driving test. That summer we were on fire, working our way through the routes in The Pass and Cloggy and we were keen to try anything. We set our sights on going to The Dolomites, in Italy, where we intended to climb on the famous Tre Cima di Lavaredo. I even bought the Dolomites East guide book to get us really psyched. Then for some reason that I can no longer remember, we decided to go to ...... The Lake District instead! OK, don't get me wrong, there are some lovely climbs in The Lakes but the place doesn't compare with The Dollies.
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eAiz2BN_kGc/Vb4wI2nD4CI/AAAAAAAAA-Y/OYW2-VmzIOo/s640/Pete+White%252C+Gimmer+Crag%252C+Lakes.+July+%252776.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-eAiz2BN_kGc/Vb4wI2nD4CI/AAAAAAAAA-Y/OYW2-VmzIOo/s1600/Pete+White%252C+Gimmer+Crag%252C+Lakes.+July+%252776.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Pete White at Gimmer Crag, July 1976, where we did Kipling Groove (so called because it used to be ruddy'ard)[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-o-3hyVfcZwE/Vb4wQhHTzHI/AAAAAAAAA-g/LGMLDuG-fu0/s640/Pete+White.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-o-3hyVfcZwE/Vb4wQhHTzHI/AAAAAAAAA-g/LGMLDuG-fu0/s1600/Pete+White.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Could you imagine this bloke teaching your children Mathematics?[/td][/tr]
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Anyway, we bimbled around carrying my copy of "Hard Rock" as our guide book and ticked off some of the classics. We had a right jolly time camping in Langdale and drinking beer in the famous "Old Dungeon Ghyll" after cragging. One particular day (after we'd just ticked off North Crag Eliminate) we discovered the Scout Crag boulders and set about working our way through the many problems. Being as it was summer (and 1976 was an amazing one) we were topless and strutting our stuff. (Is that a resounding "Yuk" I can hear someone say?) I was 110% focused on climbing and didn't notice, but Pete had a 6th sense when it came to the opposite sex. Low and behold, we were being watched by two pretty young ladies (though they later claimed they were watching a "fit looking" instructor teaching some kids how to abseil). It didn't take Pete long to get into his chat up lines and we found out that they were called Elaine and Suzanne. They had just done their first climbs that day and just so happened to be at the crag after their climbing partners had left. We got chatting and they asked us all sorts of questions about climbing. We drove off in Pete's Triumph Spitfire, feeling very chuffed with ourselves, as we'd sort of made arrangements to meet up for a drink later on. Meanwhile, Elaine and Suzanne reported back to the two blokes that they'd climbed with that day that they'd met a couple of blokes who climb "extreme". These two other blokes were obviously very unimpressed and said "No way! They don't climb extreme".
Anyway, Pete and I didn't make it to The Dolomites, but I did meet my future wife. Elaine made steady progress and we have been climbing together non stop since then. (I hardly ever climbed with Pete as a result, sorry mate.) Also, that was the first time I met Mickey J (legendary Lancs climber and one of the other blokes along with his brother Ian!).
Now, fast forward 39 years. Elaine and I have just been to The Dolomites armed with our copy of the excellent new Dolomites Rockfax by James Rushforth. We didn't do any of the famous multi pitch routes that Pete and I had intended on doing so long ago (having a dog is such a good excuse to get out of that mullarky). We visited some of the best sport climbing crags and we were amazed by the stunning scenery. We also got to meet up with Dave and Rhian Cross and her parents, both of whom are still enjoying travelling and climbing in their seventies. (Rhian's father, Barry Webb, is famous for his climb called "Gael" on Cloggy, which he climbed in the sixties, and his appearance in Crew and Soper's compelling read "The Black Cliff".) However, we weren't impressed with how expensive everything is there (eg. the access road for the Tre Cima is a toll road, you have to pay 36 euros in a camper van and a brown loaf costs around 3.5 euros!!). It's so hard to find anywhere decent to buy food, plus you have to pay to park when you do find a shop! The campsites are mega expensive but we were able to camp wild in some beautiful places, no problem. The cheapest campsite we found was at Malga Ciapela, where we paid 32 euros just for one night. It rained or stormed heavily everyday at some point and we had to have the roof down on the Cali every night. Also, we've had enough of negotiating so many hair pin bends and slogging the Cali in 2nd and 3rd gear, as we drove up to high cols and down into deep valleys to get to different crags. On the plus side however, the crags are quiet (apart from Eiszeit), the routes are not polished, the crags dry quickly and the temperature was perfect for summer (between 15 and 20 degrees C). Whilst the climbing is generally very enjoyable, the crags are not very impressive and the style is always fingery and technical. It was great fun doing lots of on sighting but I have to say, I didn't see anything that I wanted to project (apart from Fottiti at Eiszeit, which was always occupied).
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Qgfp76GOyJE/Vb47scLRf2I/AAAAAAAAA_0/trgXKJlRpPs/s640/014.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Qgfp76GOyJE/Vb47scLRf2I/AAAAAAAAA_0/trgXKJlRpPs/s1600/014.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Ruff training Uncle Dave and Auntie Rhian again![/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KgqQ0atySVM/Vb49SN2m34I/AAAAAAAABAA/xBuHpn5IZiI/s640/File0069.bmp) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-KgqQ0atySVM/Vb49SN2m34I/AAAAAAAABAA/xBuHpn5IZiI/s1600/File0069.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Barry Webb in "The Black Cliff" (Crew and Soper's compelling book about Cloggy, published in 1971).[/td][/tr]
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Right then, we've been there, ticked that box and had a good time but we're glad to be back home for a couple of days. We still have a month of our sabbatical left and there's still lots of fun to come! Bring it on.
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DGkm2kI_R64/Vb4y0X7EHtI/AAAAAAAAA-s/3QEDDq480no/s640/009.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DGkm2kI_R64/Vb4y0X7EHtI/AAAAAAAAA-s/3QEDDq480no/s1600/009.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]A rare sunny breakfast near Saas Dlacia.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ofwj0oBbTaI/Vb4y7LKPA7I/AAAAAAAAA-0/M9rXImxsfFc/s640/018.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ofwj0oBbTaI/Vb4y7LKPA7I/AAAAAAAAA-0/M9rXImxsfFc/s1600/018.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Come on, hurry up I'm ready![/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vsDFTocMh3E/Vb4zMrvXCvI/AAAAAAAAA-8/0jrvkwIAuy4/s640/024.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-vsDFTocMh3E/Vb4zMrvXCvI/AAAAAAAAA-8/0jrvkwIAuy4/s1600/024.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Dave Cross climbing Mittersteiner, 7b+, at Eiszeit.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gBsRk2ayyWg/Vb4zQTDqTOI/AAAAAAAAA_M/vE34Y39FYtg/s640/029.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-gBsRk2ayyWg/Vb4zQTDqTOI/AAAAAAAAA_M/vE34Y39FYtg/s1600/029.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Climbers on Paprika (7c+) and Fottiti (8a) at Eiszeit, the day before a mega storm caused a huge waterfall over the top of the crag![/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5WzPZq2lYkQ/Vb4zM6BIApI/AAAAAAAAA_A/X9WgfVr2fNE/s640/043.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-5WzPZq2lYkQ/Vb4zM6BIApI/AAAAAAAAA_A/X9WgfVr2fNE/s1600/043.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Unusual cairn at Saleras, girls looking super cool.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1jdJuyMQr-k/Vb4zewJnenI/AAAAAAAAA_c/GSNz2-ntd-w/s640/066.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1jdJuyMQr-k/Vb4zewJnenI/AAAAAAAAA_c/GSNz2-ntd-w/s1600/066.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Dave Cross climbing Zinnentraining (7b) at Salares.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZHR50tNNsIs/Vb4zbTRvS2I/AAAAAAAAA_U/qs1OLd8ULhk/s640/073.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ZHR50tNNsIs/Vb4zbTRvS2I/AAAAAAAAA_U/qs1OLd8ULhk/s1600/073.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The view driving down from Passo Pordoi, so many chuffing bends![/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_Epk1CA24Jg/Vb4znVNUflI/AAAAAAAAA_k/_Ox2NQEmujA/s640/060.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_Epk1CA24Jg/Vb4znVNUflI/AAAAAAAAA_k/_Ox2NQEmujA/s1600/060.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The closest we got to the Tre Cima due to unreliable weather and too many people. Seen from the Val di Landro.[/td][/tr]
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Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Just missed you in the Dollies Mike, say Hi to Elaine form Bella and me. We found plenty of free (and relaxed, low stress) camping spots around Canazei and Cortina. Surprised you were €36/night. I'm sure we paid €26 at "camping Cortina" the one night we used proper facilities. (2 people & T4). The toll to Tres Cime is a joke, we stayed twice, both times for one night. First time it was ... €24 and the second ... €16. Not sure what their "system" is, that's for sure!
You should have got yourself on Camilotto Pellisier. I'm sure the dog would have been fine scampering around the base of Cima Grand. It's so overhanging it should be safe from falling rock.
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La Rentree (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2015/09/la-rentree.html)
10 September 2015, 6:41 pm
Well it's business as usual now we're back home. Our year's sabbatical is finished but we've got so many wonderful memories. We're back at work but at least the Cali is getting fixed (it's been at the garage almost 2 weeks now and it's going to cost a lot!).
Being back home means we get to climb tufas again, yippee! We seem to have spent a lot of time climbing on fingery crags this summer, so it's nice to get back on bigger holds and on steeper routes.
We've been going to La Sanctuaire (which is a really nice cliff equipped by Guillaume Ciais in the Vesubie valley), Le Parcour de Sante (equipped by Alex Mege and Aurel Gelot up at Gourdon) and a secret spot somewhere along the Route Napolean. Lots of great routes ticked up to 7c+ (including a possible 1st ascent of a 7c+).
Psyched for climbing locally at the moment as there's still lots to do. The only problem is Elaine's finger has started playing up again. She's going for another injection next Monday, so hopefully it'll be better soon and she can get cragging again.
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-msus3opw4yU/VfG-DJhlIyI/AAAAAAAABAo/MWWh_oGlwao/s640/038.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-msus3opw4yU/VfG-DJhlIyI/AAAAAAAABAo/MWWh_oGlwao/s1600/038.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Elaine climbing Shivas se regale, 7a at La Sanctuaire.[/td][/tr]
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(http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iSqrNmnQCSg/VfG-Xh4cdMI/AAAAAAAABAw/EwdyCV3zkGE/s640/030.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iSqrNmnQCSg/VfG-Xh4cdMI/AAAAAAAABAw/EwdyCV3zkGE/s1600/030.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FNCpjuDUkZ8/VfG-hUu9wnI/AAAAAAAABA4/c71gmMABZKM/s640/032.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FNCpjuDUkZ8/VfG-hUu9wnI/AAAAAAAABA4/c71gmMABZKM/s1600/032.jpg)
[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_CynqYv3Y44/VfG-l3upUZI/AAAAAAAABBI/LqlOj2h73No/s640/024.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_CynqYv3Y44/VfG-l3upUZI/AAAAAAAABBI/LqlOj2h73No/s1600/024.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Pippa climbing Princesse 10 tetes, 6c+ at La Sanctuaire.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5mTNtguZ7HE/VfG-xXxHY9I/AAAAAAAABBQ/gxZL3gblBOg/s640/036.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5mTNtguZ7HE/VfG-xXxHY9I/AAAAAAAABBQ/gxZL3gblBOg/s1600/036.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Jean-Luc climbing Les filles de Las Vegas, 7b+ at La Sanctuaire[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-v39mATKFC_c/VfG-i34qtbI/AAAAAAAABBA/ZxOH6uWmt9w/s640/040.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-v39mATKFC_c/VfG-i34qtbI/AAAAAAAABBA/ZxOH6uWmt9w/s1600/040.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Roman climbing Guere Sainte, 7b at La Sanctuaire[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FWdpJjEWErs/VfG-3d24GMI/AAAAAAAABBY/khvPgFn5Ssk/s640/042.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FWdpJjEWErs/VfG-3d24GMI/AAAAAAAABBY/khvPgFn5Ssk/s1600/042.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Amazing views in Les Alpes Maritimes[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-S9xs7NzHiY4/VfG-8WzHAgI/AAAAAAAABBg/YdJLgmwurmo/s640/007.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-S9xs7NzHiY4/VfG-8WzHAgI/AAAAAAAABBg/YdJLgmwurmo/s1600/007.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Hot Ruff at le Parcour de sante[/td][/tr]
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Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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To quote Porky "It's nice to have a little bit of success". (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2015/10/to-quote-porky-its-nice-to-have-little.html)
13 October 2015, 8:17 pm
It's weird how things can come together when you're least expecting things to happen. For most of this year I've been climbing with "golfer's elbow" and it's been really painful at times. Luckily, I have managed to climb but I haven't been able to push myself hard. Since being back home, there have been more rest days and it's been possible to do some quality training (including working on those important antagonistic muscles). The elbow is slowly improving.
Elaine's injection has been very successful and she's feeling no pain in her finger anymore, so we've been getting outs lots and making the most of the cooler temps and quiet crags. Three weeks ago I had two fantastic back to back days. On the Wednesday I set off on my latest project, a great 8a+ tufa at a secret spot, which I'd tried the previous weekend (expecting to have another dogging session)). There was no pressure, amazingly it just happened and I just kept climbing all the way to the chain. The next day I was back with Stephane Quefelec and exactly the same happened with a 7c+ I'd worked a couple of weeks previously. It made such a nice change to have a couple of no-fall days and just climb. It was amazing to just turn up and do both as they felt utterly desperate when I was dogging them. Thanks to the equippers for creating such beautiful routes, you know who you are.
After that it seemed a good idea to revisit Deverse and try Supertango again. This is a short but tough 8a+ (there are easier 8b's than this one!) which climbs two parallel tufas up a wildly steep overhanging wall. I last tried the climb eight years ago and could hardly move on it, eventually I gave up when I aggravated a knee ligament and left it. This time all was going well (I was very inspired by a local friend, Seb Muller, who'd done it last year). Petr gave me great beta and Roman even took some photos (which I've yet to see). However, last Wednesday I felt the same ligament (the MCL) strain whilst doing a big drop knee. Instinctively, I let go and saved the ligament from tearing. The sensible thing has been to leave the climb alone, yet again, rather than risk a serious injury which would need ages to recover. So, sadly Supertango hasn't been ticked off the list!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-F2Ic5N_opvo/Vh1VB6DPhkI/AAAAAAAABCQ/6vHZobFof4o/s640/018.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-F2Ic5N_opvo/Vh1VB6DPhkI/AAAAAAAABCQ/6vHZobFof4o/s1600/018.jpg)
A couple of days icing, resting and taking ibuprofen and we were out again at the weekend. Saturday at Mesa Verde falling off every move on one of my bogey routes, Pizza Party, a tough bouldery 7c. I left my draws in over night. Next morning Elaine wanted to go to Jurassic Park, so we had a good work out and I managed my favourite 8a+ again (that's 42 times now!). Cayenne and Shakti were too wet so we headed down to Mesa Verde to get my draws, as it was going to rain for the next couple of days. We arrived at the crag at 6h 27 and there was nobody there, all the other climbers had all gone home by then. There was just enough time for one go before it got dark. I was expecting to fall low down and then dog up to get the gear out but it just happened. The start went perfectly and I got to the shake out below the bouldery finish feeling fresh. After a couple of minutes of positive mental rehearsal (thanks to Hugh Mantle) there was much whooping after sticking the crux dyno. I've never been so happy to get a hold as that one! So, an old score has been finally settled. Result!
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4bjUQmyDKg4/Vh1U5yzuZ2I/AAAAAAAABCI/DpGz7rAJjaM/s640/011.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-4bjUQmyDKg4/Vh1U5yzuZ2I/AAAAAAAABCI/DpGz7rAJjaM/s1600/011.jpg)
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-u-P7u6Sv900/Vh1U3QYpspI/AAAAAAAABCA/7b53lGjJTLk/s640/001.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-u-P7u6Sv900/Vh1U3QYpspI/AAAAAAAABCA/7b53lGjJTLk/s1600/001.jpg)
Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Super Tango photo shoot and La Croix (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2015/11/super-tango-photo-shoot-and-la-croix.html)
1 November 2015, 5:28 pm
Found an email in my junk mail from Roman Bayon with those photos of Super Tango at Deverse Satanique, here in the beautiful Gorges du Loup.
[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-r_worFjN0HQ/VjZKdOmeFnI/AAAAAAAABCY/7xgcmev9ctw/s640/968B8936.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-r_worFjN0HQ/VjZKdOmeFnI/AAAAAAAABCY/7xgcmev9ctw/s1600/968B8936.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Awesome tufa action on Super Tango (8a+) here in Les Gorges du Loup (photo by Roman Bayon)[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7gsKmo_Vfu4/VjZKi21QUbI/AAAAAAAABCg/FFSSWYNvq5s/s640/968B8900.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7gsKmo_Vfu4/VjZKi21QUbI/AAAAAAAABCg/FFSSWYNvq5s/s1600/968B8900.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]At the strenuous "rest" on Super Tango (photo by Roman Bayon)[/td][/tr]
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Just spent a week at one of our favourite crags, La Croix in the Tarn et Garonne department. The climbs are very long (up to 50 metres), on fantastic tufas and the walk in is about a minute! The new Anaconda secteur offers more fingery and sunnier climbing which makes a nice change. We had fantastic, warm weather and the cliff was totally dry. Perfect!
[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2CRjPmxhyd4/VjZLdIFUGLI/AAAAAAAABCo/CldaYBL3cuI/s640/005.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-2CRjPmxhyd4/VjZLdIFUGLI/AAAAAAAABCo/CldaYBL3cuI/s1600/005.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Yannick on the superb "Anaconda" (8a) at La Croix[/td][/tr]
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It was nice to settle the score on another of my Mesa Verde bogey routes before we left for La Croix, Petit Poucet has been added to the tick list (at last!). Back to work tomorrow....
Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Wild West Tour 1993, Part 5 (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2016/01/wild-west-tour-1993-part-5.html)
26 January 2016, 8:28 pm
Since my last post nearly (3 months ago) we've been lucky enough to climb outdoors every weekend, apart from a couple of weeks ago (and that wasn't anything to do with bad weather - we both had colds). The weather here has been really good with lots of sunshine and the crags have been completely dry. Amazing conditions on the Cote d'Azur for sure.
So we've been ticking over; climbing at Val de Grimpe and on our board downstairs, also we've done some core workouts and some weights and generally keeping fit. Neither of us has found a project to get stuck into but we've had lots of fun ticking easier stuff at places like Chouchou Place, La Decharge, Seranon, Le Brumisateur and Greolieres. Most of the time we've been able to avoid the crowds and enjoy the peace and quiet in the mountains.
However, some super motivated Australian friends of ours (who climb and travel even more than us!) have been climbing at Red Rocks in Nevada, USA. This got me thinking and I realised that I hadn't written the final part of our Wild West Tour from 1993. So, here goes.....
After such a fantastic time with Tom and Sondra climbing at Jailhouse and Yosemite, we headed towards the desert. We weren't sure if we were going to Joshua Tree or Red Rocks. A decision was made when we found out that Liam Gartside (a friend from a trip to the Verdon in 1983) was staying in a place called Mesquite, near Virgin River Gorge (about 80 miles from Las Vegas). Liam's friends (Rob Foelek and Peggy Purner) very kindly told us to "come on over". Peggy is a veterenary surgeon with her own practice; she was nursing a very shy monitor lizard when we arrived. Rob was out at work, dealing Poker at the Virgin River Casino, on the graveyard shift. We met Rob later when he returned from work; he was more than keen to share with us his addiction for chocolate ice cream at 3 o'clock in the morning! Rob's philosophy was "quantity" rather than "quality", so (luckily) there was always loads of cheap chocolate ice cream at hand in their house.
We used to drive all the way to Red Rocks and drive back each day, which was a round trip of almost 200 miles, but it was worth it for the fantastic company (not to mention all the ice cream and pizza!). Whilst there we met up again with Pete and Cara Blackburn, who we skied with at Heavenly whilst staying at TM's. They'd been surfing down in Baja California and were keen to do some climbing for a change. (They both studied at I M Marsh with Elaine.) We also had some great days at VRG. Well, I say great but Elaine would disagree very strongly, climbing in the shade in late November and early December was never her idea of having fun. Of course I feel the same way myself these days, but at the time I was really keen to climb some of the great routes there. Not surprisingly we met up with super keen new router Randy Leavitt, who would drive all the way from San Diego each weekend.
Climbing at Red Rocks was a nice change from the volcanic tuff, limestone, granite and basalt crags that we'd climbed on up until then. Whilst the crags that we climbed on were pretty small, the rock was nice and rough being sandstone, so the friction was ace, you could almost climb just using your feet. There was one typical American "novelty" that used to bug us at the end of each day. The park ranger would come with his loudhailer and tell us all to "get the hell out of the place" before they closed the park for the night! There was some panicked climbing, if we weren't quite finished on time followed by a frantic jog to the car to make sure we weren't locked in for the night.
One rest day we visited the Grand Canyon and the Hoover dam. Another time, Rob scared the shit out of me by taking me on a wild drive, tearing around the sand dunes in his dune buggy. We even went skeet (clay pigeon) shooting. We were both horrified to see the selection of guns when we went with Rob to hire the rifles and get the ammo. You could come out of the general store armed just like Arnie in Terminator with a pump action shotgun AND a 6 pack of beer. Only in America......
All to soon, it was almost Christmas and we had to head back north to Pete and Sandra's place in Portland and catch a flight back home. Before we left we took the car back to Pete's friend at the garage where we bought it (with an extra 10 000 miles on the clock in the 4 months we'd had it). He bought it back off us for 600$, which was the same price we bought it for in the first place. Pete also gave me a letter addressed to me. It was from the insurance company and it contained a refund of my insurance premium because I'd not taken the Oregon drivers test! Result! Ok, I hadn't been technically insured during our long journey but I did have the paper work in case I got stopped by the smokies. (I didn't know that was going to happen. Honest, but it was a nice surprise.)
The last night before flying home, Pete took us down to the climbing "gym". Lots of folks were keen to hear where we'd been to and many asked which was our favourite place or crag. I can remember at the time, we both said "Yosemite". However, in reality, it wasn't an easy question to answer as we'd been to so many amazing locations, climbed in so many beautiful places and met so many wonderful people (many of which we're still in touch with today, well over 20 years later). Even now, I can still remember so much about that trip. It was absolutely out of this world. I'd like to thank everybody who helped us have such a life changing experience, especially Pete Kirton and Sandra, Marla Gibson, Tom and Sondra Herbert, Steve Petro and Lisa Gnade, TM Herbert, Peggy Purner and Rob Foelek. Thank you all so much for your friendship and help along the way.
[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AbDNtHhvuCQ/VqfRcpAJvbI/AAAAAAAABDQ/tzr9y6Qktkk/s640/Elaine+and+Mike%252C+Red+Rocks.bmp) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AbDNtHhvuCQ/VqfRcpAJvbI/AAAAAAAABDQ/tzr9y6Qktkk/s1600/Elaine+and+Mike%252C+Red+Rocks.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Warm up at Red Rocks (hat supplied by Pete Gomersall/Troll)[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-t_220J0sYv0/VqfRuh76slI/AAAAAAAABDY/FBwj4qf-eZ0/s640/Mike+Sissy+Traverse%252C+Dec+93.bmp) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-t_220J0sYv0/VqfRuh76slI/AAAAAAAABDY/FBwj4qf-eZ0/s1600/Mike+Sissy+Traverse%252C+Dec+93.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Puffing the cheeks on The Sissy Traverse (8a)[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7JyV1n8Syuo/VqfRzyOYYmI/AAAAAAAABDc/vDMXTWenDyw/s640/Pete+and+Cara+at+Red+Rocks.bmp) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-7JyV1n8Syuo/VqfRzyOYYmI/AAAAAAAABDc/vDMXTWenDyw/s1600/Pete+and+Cara+at+Red+Rocks.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Pete and Cara at Red Rocks[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RDJQn0Zg3Hg/VqfSC5SAG0I/AAAAAAAABDk/W56nuMqX-PI/s640/The+Gift+2.bmp) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RDJQn0Zg3Hg/VqfSC5SAG0I/AAAAAAAABDk/W56nuMqX-PI/s1600/The+Gift+2.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The one everybody goes to Red Rocks for: The Gift (7c)[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dGy_ANYqMnY/VqfSVl7UMXI/AAAAAAAABDs/RPIJWc6O7Go/s640/Warm+up%252C+Red+Rocks.bmp) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-dGy_ANYqMnY/VqfSVl7UMXI/AAAAAAAABDs/RPIJWc6O7Go/s1600/Warm+up%252C+Red+Rocks.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Another nice warm up[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DT4o3d3-4Nw/VqfScXbhjQI/AAAAAAAABD4/EBO2FZRa9Qc/s640/Ascent+of+Man.bmp) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-DT4o3d3-4Nw/VqfScXbhjQI/AAAAAAAABD4/EBO2FZRa9Qc/s1600/Ascent+of+Man.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]DMM sponsored bald person making a quick ascent of The Ascent of Man (8a) at VRG[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PUpwIO-NGDY/VqfSqPty2fI/AAAAAAAABEA/qpBYWm4W2y0/s640/Elaine+shooting%2521.bmp) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-PUpwIO-NGDY/VqfSqPty2fI/AAAAAAAABEA/qpBYWm4W2y0/s1600/Elaine+shooting%2521.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Rob Foelek releasing the skeets, Elaine getting in some target practice.....[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_SAGogT8SqY/VqfS8Sicj5I/AAAAAAAABEI/Jk0GsMcLvjk/s640/Elaine%252C+Red+Rocks+2.bmp) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-_SAGogT8SqY/VqfS8Sicj5I/AAAAAAAABEI/Jk0GsMcLvjk/s1600/Elaine%252C+Red+Rocks+2.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Elaine warming up on Yaack Crack[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0Zjk6CmhlTk/VqfTDJvSlaI/AAAAAAAABEQ/8zOMyE94qDk/s640/The+skeet+shoot+team%2521.bmp) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0Zjk6CmhlTk/VqfTDJvSlaI/AAAAAAAABEQ/8zOMyE94qDk/s1600/The+skeet+shoot+team%2521.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Elaine, Baldy with moustache, Peggy Purner, Rob Foelek, Cara and Pete Blackburn[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xkOKVelLmgI/VqfTTHIxWXI/AAAAAAAABEY/aqp6-XL5gZI/s640/Mike+and+Rob+in+the+dune+buggy.bmp) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xkOKVelLmgI/VqfTTHIxWXI/AAAAAAAABEY/aqp6-XL5gZI/s1600/Mike+and+Rob+in+the+dune+buggy.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The moustache, Rob and the dune buggy[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j7LEhvnvTm0/VqfTjJYN6bI/AAAAAAAABEg/SDa6WOdXy_U/s640/Tom+Herbert+and+team.bmp) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j7LEhvnvTm0/VqfTjJYN6bI/AAAAAAAABEg/SDa6WOdXy_U/s1600/Tom+Herbert+and+team.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]L to R: John Williams, moustache, sorry can't remember, Sondra Herbert, Krister Williams and Tom Herbert (whilst we were climbing at Jailhouse Rock)[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-X4ZWr0m2wKY/VqfTpY0M_2I/AAAAAAAABEo/KiW2VTIOjIg/s640/View+of+Lake+Tahoe%252C+skiing+at+Heavenly.bmp) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-X4ZWr0m2wKY/VqfTpY0M_2I/AAAAAAAABEo/KiW2VTIOjIg/s1600/View+of+Lake+Tahoe%252C+skiing+at+Heavenly.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Elaine, Cara and the moustache. Scruffy climbers skiing at Heavenly[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PzpPItqkKsM/VqfT0Uij9vI/AAAAAAAABEw/QCP_9RbOPks/s640/Pete+and+Sandra+Dec+93.bmp) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PzpPItqkKsM/VqfT0Uij9vI/AAAAAAAABEw/QCP_9RbOPks/s1600/Pete+and+Sandra+Dec+93.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Back at Portland, Pete Kirton and Sandra. Can you spot who's on the TV?[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ThqG7qXup4Q/VqfT5wJF9SI/AAAAAAAABE4/hl4j_VUPGQM/s640/Elaine%252C+snow+and+altitude+sign.bmp) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ThqG7qXup4Q/VqfT5wJF9SI/AAAAAAAABE4/hl4j_VUPGQM/s1600/Elaine%252C+snow+and+altitude+sign.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Heading north from Mesquite. "Winter is coming".[/td][/tr]
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Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Return to La Desfiladero de La Hermida and the Celebrity Climbers Ticklist (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2016/08/return-to-la-desfiladero-de-la-hermida.html)
20 August 2016, 4:12 pm
It all started with a message from Maxime Clerc (1). You see, he's a local climber who is a teacher with the same holidays as us, so he usually gets in touch to try and tempt us to climb wherever he is. Last year it was La Ramirole; we didn't take him up on his offer, partly because Maxime climbs so much harder than us and we thought he wouldn't really like to climb with us punters. However, this year he was in La Hermida, in Cantabria (Northern Spain) which we visited 2 years ago and had such a good time that we always wanted to go back again sometime.
The same day there was a new "Destinations" article on UK Climbing titled "Into The Valleys" all about the climbing in Asturias and Cantabria. We got in touch with Richie Patterson (2), author of the excellent "Roca Verde" topo and we were hooked by his enthusiasm (especially after watching the video of James Pearson on an amazing double tufa rail called "Dimensiones Paralelas" at the reasonable grade of 7c+). We headed off on the long drive west.....
We met up with Maxime. He took us to a newly developed cave called Cueva Hermida where he was trying an 8b+. The climbing there was, unfortunately, too hard for Elaine, but I managed to do two really good 7c's. Maxime had 3 good goes but had to leave for Onate without doing the 8b+.
[tr][td](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AZvZEnqD-9g/V7hjFdT_glI/AAAAAAAABGI/y6IDYWTtZEQOhK931Vw6ZiEvNmiGt5-LgCLcB/s640/7c+at+Cueva+Hermida+1.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-AZvZEnqD-9g/V7hjFdT_glI/AAAAAAAABGI/y6IDYWTtZEQOhK931Vw6ZiEvNmiGt5-LgCLcB/s1600/7c+at+Cueva+Hermida+1.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Hatori Hanza (7c) at Cueva Hermida.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P3etNPmKLXA/V7hm1q9yp4I/AAAAAAAABGo/CTjkanGCuMsgBrClBvnAJ9FAkmTvAdREQCLcB/s640/IMG_0235.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-P3etNPmKLXA/V7hm1q9yp4I/AAAAAAAABGo/CTjkanGCuMsgBrClBvnAJ9FAkmTvAdREQCLcB/s1600/IMG_0235.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Hatori Hanza again.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1e00k4vaUBk/V7hm5oroXVI/AAAAAAAABGs/kJxl-fyTHQsmfX4DyZQXK4bG67D30gXTQCLcB/s640/IMG_0215.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-1e00k4vaUBk/V7hm5oroXVI/AAAAAAAABGs/kJxl-fyTHQsmfX4DyZQXK4bG67D30gXTQCLcB/s1600/IMG_0215.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Maxime Clerc warming up on the 8a version of Hatori Hanza.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3A3uRJnGuh0/V7hm8WBeemI/AAAAAAAABGw/aRGgq0Xf3xw0fMyGTUF2hnCnCnCpX55NQCLcB/s640/IMG_0243.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3A3uRJnGuh0/V7hm8WBeemI/AAAAAAAABGw/aRGgq0Xf3xw0fMyGTUF2hnCnCnCpX55NQCLcB/s1600/IMG_0243.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Maxime on El hombre que vendis el mundo, 8b+ (all photos by Elaine).[/td][/tr]
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Next day we went to another newish crag called El Infierno where we got shut down by the warm ups! Elaine found Malas Pulgas tough and intimidating, whilst I fell off Panificadora, expecting a nice 7a+, which actually proved to be wrongly graded (it is in fact a tough and run out 7b+). The high light of the day was bumping into an old friend from Granada called Javier Morales (3). We first met him in Yorkshire in 1990 with photographer David Munilla (he did things like The Oak way back then in the middle of summer with minimum fuss!). We have bumped into him many times at El Chorro and even in the Gorges du Tarn over the years, he is still climbing really hard. Also there that day was Mariona Marti (4), who we already knew from a previous visit to Onate.
Next on our list was the immense cave high up the hillside opposite Cicera called Cueva Carcalosa where we got stuck into La Deriva (7a+) and the fore mentioned 40 metre classic Dimensiones Paralelas. Elaine made good progress on the former and I should have finished the latter in a day, however I fell off high up and then twice much lower down like the punter I am. It was worth the long walk next day to finish the job, despite really sore skin. It felt awesome to climb such a king line, it was even better than it looked in the video. We also got to tick off two really big names: local equipper Alberto Hontavilla (5) and Dani Andrada (6). By the way, Iker Poo (7) spent a couple of nights next to us where we were parked up. Just saying!!
[tr][td](https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WAQru3wPNu4/V7hneZUdHJI/AAAAAAAABG0/zXgjRfhxURANh39j1sO2Ozm8_qO3AWFFQCLcB/s640/IMG_0295.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WAQru3wPNu4/V7hneZUdHJI/AAAAAAAABG0/zXgjRfhxURANh39j1sO2Ozm8_qO3AWFFQCLcB/s1600/IMG_0295.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]On the send train: the superb Dimensiones Paralelas (7c+) at Cueva Carcalosa.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qG02mql6z0U/V7hnhj6PirI/AAAAAAAABG4/um1-SoWE1FAmThlGBEvJPGP9mbKp3jLJQCLcB/s640/IMG_0305.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qG02mql6z0U/V7hnhj6PirI/AAAAAAAABG4/um1-SoWE1FAmThlGBEvJPGP9mbKp3jLJQCLcB/s1600/IMG_0305.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Dimensiones Paralelas again (both photos by Richie Patterson on Elaine's camera).[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-usVd44JPUxA/V7hnoyLEnTI/AAAAAAAABG8/EmpC_E-lky4h2Ztz2woaApV1BwixJ64sACLcB/s640/IMG_0308.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-usVd44JPUxA/V7hnoyLEnTI/AAAAAAAABG8/EmpC_E-lky4h2Ztz2woaApV1BwixJ64sACLcB/s1600/IMG_0308.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The immense Cueva Carcalosa. It's massive![/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qygRJWxyh2E/V7hnswqRv0I/AAAAAAAABHE/UWXtgFeJdRgnZOkrizl2A8iLRIECDhvdACLcB/s640/IMG_0311.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qygRJWxyh2E/V7hnswqRv0I/AAAAAAAABHE/UWXtgFeJdRgnZOkrizl2A8iLRIECDhvdACLcB/s1600/IMG_0311.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Local equipper Alberto Hontevilla climbing the mega tufa Polvo en los osos (7b).[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IAllX5RMcEs/V7hnzcVjP6I/AAAAAAAABHI/UQlB7AuHORoRFOYfoSxYF60sqjmG3Tr7gCLcB/s640/IMG_0284.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-IAllX5RMcEs/V7hnzcVjP6I/AAAAAAAABHI/UQlB7AuHORoRFOYfoSxYF60sqjmG3Tr7gCLcB/s1600/IMG_0284.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Richie Patterson climbing La Deriva (7a+). Photos by Elaine.[/td][/tr]
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We continued having fun going to different crags and climbing some amazing tufas and we moved onto an excellent and friendly campsite (La Isla at Turieno, near Potes). Ruff was so happy when we were joined by her favourite uncle and auntie, Dave Cross (8) and Rhian Cross (9). Pete Chadwick (10) arrived pretty soon thereafter, ensuring that he had us all splitting our sides laughing at his jokes and stories from his "Porky and Tonks" scrapbook, even if we'd heard them before....... erm, lots of times! Later additions to the team were super stars Neil Mawson (11) and Tanya "Traverse of the Gods" Meredith (12). Brief appearances were made by Jonny Garside (13) and his wife Becky and also Marina (14) from Chulilla.
[tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tBYcm9NK9s4/V7h2sM-UCRI/AAAAAAAABIw/O40xKon4jlY8DItGqTbYbCDdQHj9RDeMwCLcB/s640/Rhian+50th+birthday.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-tBYcm9NK9s4/V7h2sM-UCRI/AAAAAAAABIw/O40xKon4jlY8DItGqTbYbCDdQHj9RDeMwCLcB/s1600/Rhian+50th+birthday.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Rhian celebrating a special birthday.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--HeOF75FLrA/V7h2uKMXasI/AAAAAAAABI0/wpDcBi5P7n8d8iNdcmHY48Sjqjmzghh_wCLcB/s640/Dave+on+Hellboy+1.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/--HeOF75FLrA/V7h2uKMXasI/AAAAAAAABI0/wpDcBi5P7n8d8iNdcmHY48Sjqjmzghh_wCLcB/s1600/Dave+on+Hellboy+1.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Dave Cross on the challenging Hellboy, 7a+.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SiBPuvjKwxE/V7h2vxNBkBI/AAAAAAAABI4/3giijqCVWf0JnqLdBW7QRGrauEHhwmUyACLcB/s640/Dave+on+Hellboy+2.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-SiBPuvjKwxE/V7h2vxNBkBI/AAAAAAAABI4/3giijqCVWf0JnqLdBW7QRGrauEHhwmUyACLcB/s1600/Dave+on+Hellboy+2.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Dave on Hellboy again.[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JsHSbcXClKQ/V7hootF1y8I/AAAAAAAABHQ/TnAPVTJdd9QT66-tBJcH0QHmURaqMNJ3gCEw/s640/IMG_0328.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-JsHSbcXClKQ/V7hootF1y8I/AAAAAAAABHQ/TnAPVTJdd9QT66-tBJcH0QHmURaqMNJ3gCEw/s1600/IMG_0328.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Awesome Neil Mawson, Balambambu (7c) on sight of course.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-taD9durGqh0/V7horbgjwLI/AAAAAAAABHU/5n9_URH5rVQKjFDfs_VBnLrGA2Th1VrZACEw/s640/IMG_0332.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-taD9durGqh0/V7horbgjwLI/AAAAAAAABHU/5n9_URH5rVQKjFDfs_VBnLrGA2Th1VrZACEw/s1600/IMG_0332.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Neil Mawson climbing El Algoritmo Wallmann (8a).[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Nifbril_K4g/V7hpALMgvCI/AAAAAAAABHY/OnptU6pA-9Q8P2FvPBg-OvCiHFUdiyTjgCEw/s640/El+Algoritmo+Wallmann+1.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Nifbril_K4g/V7hpALMgvCI/AAAAAAAABHY/OnptU6pA-9Q8P2FvPBg-OvCiHFUdiyTjgCEw/s1600/El+Algoritmo+Wallmann+1.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]El Algoritmo Wallmann (8a) 2nd go for baldy, not bad![/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9BRQUheYow8/V7hpDVMWg8I/AAAAAAAABHc/zD-H4tSF9YwEnx04CPYP3OPRtrG1C153ACEw/s640/El+Algoritmo+Wallmann+2.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-9BRQUheYow8/V7hpDVMWg8I/AAAAAAAABHc/zD-H4tSF9YwEnx04CPYP3OPRtrG1C153ACEw/s1600/El+Algoritmo+Wallmann+2.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Approaching the crux of El Algoritmo Wallmann on the send. Above photos by Elaine.[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr][td](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fzhyYi2OE-0/V7hpPi6r-1I/AAAAAAAABHg/A-LNg1i6uDwktedgVAu9awjJWklLRH0JgCEw/s640/090.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-fzhyYi2OE-0/V7hpPi6r-1I/AAAAAAAABHg/A-LNg1i6uDwktedgVAu9awjJWklLRH0JgCEw/s1600/090.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Elaine approaching the crux of Chachimente, a superb 7b at El Infierno (photo by Dave Cross).[/td][/tr]
[/table]
Back to the crag and the real purpose of the trip: ticking. El Infierno continued to feature well (Adam Pustelnik (15) ticked, along with Estraguena (nice, soft grades or what?). A day at Cicera proved too hot for climbing but very good for ticking a plethora of celebs: Javier (again, so doesn't count twice), Olivier Fourbet (16), Yann Ghesqiuers (17), Jean-Luc Jeunot (18), St Leger equipper par excellence Franck Vilpini (19) and I think (though I'm not 100% sure) Alizee Dufresse (20). I should add here that, once we'd given up trying to climb, the Chadster and I watched/drooled over a lovely young scantily dressed grimpeuse from Chambery who made an 8b look very easy on her 2nd time up (please don't hit me again Elaine!).
[tr][td](https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VS8b8vf5vok/V7hxMgPw4VI/AAAAAAAABIU/3lDYLtxfNHEDerIvMz2-RZckejvdVaucQCLcB/s640/IMG_0321.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VS8b8vf5vok/V7hxMgPw4VI/AAAAAAAABIU/3lDYLtxfNHEDerIvMz2-RZckejvdVaucQCLcB/s1600/IMG_0321.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Asturcantabra, 7c+ on sight for Baldy (photo by Elaine).[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Vx9ocqLXbGY/V7hxPEhJUhI/AAAAAAAABIY/7cxxvAq_X0kzyqr0XsMi3EB7Mt7qnm40QCLcB/s640/Tanya%2527s+photo+of+Mike+on+47+Ronin.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Vx9ocqLXbGY/V7hxPEhJUhI/AAAAAAAABIY/7cxxvAq_X0kzyqr0XsMi3EB7Mt7qnm40QCLcB/s1600/Tanya%2527s+photo+of+Mike+on+47+Ronin.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Tufa heaven on 47 Ronin (8a), 1st red point for baldy. [/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ubVYrbI1UOI/V7hkV5DLsgI/AAAAAAAABGQ/AbnHZOjeRZMx2tAC7kUbAOyWebKg_fpBwCLcB/s640/104.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ubVYrbI1UOI/V7hkV5DLsgI/AAAAAAAABGQ/AbnHZOjeRZMx2tAC7kUbAOyWebKg_fpBwCLcB/s1600/104.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Pete Chadwick starting up Veneno Azul (8a).[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Z0MUKSb0NBg/V7hknHnM19I/AAAAAAAABGY/qLUOqg1fMBg8YTsl56NtupCRlKDimUgRACLcB/s640/107.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Z0MUKSb0NBg/V7hknHnM19I/AAAAAAAABGY/qLUOqg1fMBg8YTsl56NtupCRlKDimUgRACLcB/s1600/107.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Where it starts getting hard, Veneno Azul (8a).[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-T62tjdy1ZaY/V7hpucUiEuI/AAAAAAAABHs/bscWnBoSq0ctiHYm0I5ZvBG7XWYBCA7MACLcB/s640/099.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-T62tjdy1ZaY/V7hpucUiEuI/AAAAAAAABHs/bscWnBoSq0ctiHYm0I5ZvBG7XWYBCA7MACLcB/s1600/099.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Cueva Carcalosa from Cicera, yes you do have to walk all the way up that hill![/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ob2FIIUPo3A/V7hp7J2kxkI/AAAAAAAABHw/XxkejVWFF5Muz019XORYRxA1kZ_gvqHegCLcB/s640/101.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Ob2FIIUPo3A/V7hp7J2kxkI/AAAAAAAABHw/XxkejVWFF5Muz019XORYRxA1kZ_gvqHegCLcB/s1600/101.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Stars at Cicera, the climbs are 8a+ and 8b.[/td][/tr]
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After more than 3 weeks in La Hermida we decided to head to Teverga after promising reports from Neil and Tanya, despite our sentiments after going there last year. We were woken in the middle of the night by a huge horse with a blond mane, rubbing against the side of the van and Pete's car. It was hilarious watching the Chadster trying to shoo it away from inside his hearse! I can't repeat the rest of the story here....
[tr][td](https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-f-d9OhD9CX8/V7hqGgqcZvI/AAAAAAAABH0/o49Y1Fx5IHsZzAcysOsmJR9m75D5HZw1gCLcB/s640/The+team+on+the+last+night.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-f-d9OhD9CX8/V7hqGgqcZvI/AAAAAAAABH0/o49Y1Fx5IHsZzAcysOsmJR9m75D5HZw1gCLcB/s1600/The+team+on+the+last+night.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Jonny, Becky, Bald Punter, The Chadster, The Boss, Big guns Tanya and Awesome Mawson.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wJt2c50qzV4/V7hqMLhsXUI/AAAAAAAABH4/w4hAN-Dy4MI7fwsHpuXmRlCQnE44ZGjbQCLcB/s640/Pete+explaining+his+CHI.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wJt2c50qzV4/V7hqMLhsXUI/AAAAAAAABH4/w4hAN-Dy4MI7fwsHpuXmRlCQnE44ZGjbQCLcB/s1600/Pete+explaining+his+CHI.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]What do you do on a rest day? Plan how you're going to get better, of course! (photo by Elaine).[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bfDzMBgGx_k/V7hqPU0EvYI/AAAAAAAABIA/WUWTP0LVwhIuYPzbmMVv7Ixa6OXEnJ-kwCLcB/s640/IMG_0271.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bfDzMBgGx_k/V7hqPU0EvYI/AAAAAAAABIA/WUWTP0LVwhIuYPzbmMVv7Ixa6OXEnJ-kwCLcB/s1600/IMG_0271.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Flipping heck, I'd best show some interest, my dad's climbing again (photo by Elaine).[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uzMzxBe4ddc/V7hqUs9WQpI/AAAAAAAABIE/fs8bhnpBqw04Cy7KqbFh9-Hu6Q1aECmiACLcB/s640/118.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uzMzxBe4ddc/V7hqUs9WQpI/AAAAAAAABIE/fs8bhnpBqw04Cy7KqbFh9-Hu6Q1aECmiACLcB/s1600/118.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Typical grain store in Gradura, held up on 4 posts. The large flat rocks are to stop mice climbing up (photo by Pete Chadwick on Elaine's camera).[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rkBMOdbOAus/V7hy79zGvZI/AAAAAAAABIk/KqkAr2DFSBocmfyQmkF0v4jC7m4FDpglQCLcB/s640/115.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-rkBMOdbOAus/V7hy79zGvZI/AAAAAAAABIk/KqkAr2DFSBocmfyQmkF0v4jC7m4FDpglQCLcB/s1600/115.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The Chadster has been training hard these last few years![/td][/tr]
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Next day proved too much: hot and sweaty at the not very impressive cave of El Covachon, but we did meet up with Pierre "Kairn/Fanatic Climber" Delas (21) and Mr Greenspits himself Antonin Rhode (22) slowed down by a broken heel but climbing well nonetheless.
[tr][td](https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XVu2fypd4xA/V7hkzQe8bGI/AAAAAAAABGc/t1rSA1byOzw4O4qqwtBRrLOVClo6vzRgwCLcB/s640/112.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XVu2fypd4xA/V7hkzQe8bGI/AAAAAAAABGc/t1rSA1byOzw4O4qqwtBRrLOVClo6vzRgwCLcB/s1600/112.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Fanatic Climber warming up on Espolon Marley (7b+) at the over-rated El Covachon.[/td][/tr]
[/table]
Conclusion: an awesome 4 weeks "ticking" and having great fun with an ace bunch of friends; great climbing with favourable summer temps. Next July we'll be back.
Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Sponge Bob Sqaure Pants spills tears (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2016/10/i-couldnt-help-it-i-was-just-so.html)
4 October 2016, 1:43 pm
I couldn't help it, I was just so frustrated and the floodgates opened. 58 years young/old and I was crying at the crag. Big, full-blown sobs straight from the heart. Sponge Bob Square Pants reduced to tears. FFS!
Back at work you spend the whole week longing to get out climbing. You've been doing some training to try and get a little bit better, but it's wearing you out and your fingers are really tired. If you've got a project you're mentally worn out too, because it occupies your thoughts most of the time you're awake and you keep going through the moves whenever you've got a spare moment. Then you finally get to the crag (an adventure in itself when you're going to La Ramirole with a dog). The conditions let you down, it's too humide and you trash your skin on your first attempt. The weekend's already finished for you, that's it. Back to work and go through all that aching and longing again, until the next weekend.
That more or less sums up how I've been existing for over 40 years. I have absolutely no regrets and have had a fantastic time trying my best to claw my way up cliffs pretty much all over the world. However, I've got to a stage where it's getting really, really hard to keep motivated. Quite simply, I'm getting too old and am struggling on stuff I used to run up. Plus I'm always the punter at the crag these days and my projects are the warm ups! I'm OK if we're at a quiet crag but I really hate being the weakling at La Ramirole.
I don't feel like doing any more training, I've had enough, and I don't feel motivated to go back to La Ramirole, despite feeling close to doing my project (if only the conditions and my skin were good enough). Then again, you never know..... Maybe I should go downstairs and pull my finger out after all. Come on.
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dFx3sx27LGo/V_Ojv94SDuI/AAAAAAAABJU/-VTW3G9Nqwk38n-HlHwAoDNl285_y0qzACLcB/s640/020.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-dFx3sx27LGo/V_Ojv94SDuI/AAAAAAAABJU/-VTW3G9Nqwk38n-HlHwAoDNl285_y0qzACLcB/s1600/020.jpg)
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qfIyyNrBwvM/V_Ojxd9r-iI/AAAAAAAABJY/0KlINWUMV38UywVzsKUPlOysuewTPHQzACLcB/s640/021+%25282%2529.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qfIyyNrBwvM/V_Ojxd9r-iI/AAAAAAAABJY/0KlINWUMV38UywVzsKUPlOysuewTPHQzACLcB/s1600/021+%25282%2529.jpg)
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ya-ZrrqoBd4/V_Oj3Xvdv_I/AAAAAAAABJc/OdsP0Zqq3f4J9GfdUnQ5S57ntofCuXp2QCLcB/s640/20160907_144549.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ya-ZrrqoBd4/V_Oj3Xvdv_I/AAAAAAAABJc/OdsP0Zqq3f4J9GfdUnQ5S57ntofCuXp2QCLcB/s1600/20160907_144549.jpg)
Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Oi! Thats not the Mike I know. Who are you, you imposter?
The real Mike - with Elaine's support, would just take a well-deserved break, allow body & mind to recuperate from 40yrs of hard climbing and come back with a vengeance.
So, will the real Mr Owen please let us all know when the time's right.
Best,
And. xx
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Meeting up with Steady Eddie and The Sun Goddess again (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2016/11/meeting-up-with-steady-eddie-and-sun.html)
22 November 2016, 6:06 pm
As I write this, we're having a brief respite from a long period of heavy rain during the last 48 hours here in the south of France. It's forecast to continue raining up until the weekend.....
It's just as well that we made full use of the last couple of warm and dry weekends to do some climbing with our friends Eddie and Mandy Martinez from Britain. We met up at Courchon and the crag was in mint condition. This weekend we met up again and climbed at Jurassic Park and Cayenne (on Saturday) and St Cezaire on Sunday, all crags were more or less dry (though there were some damp holds in places). It was great to see them again after so long. It was also a chance to test my re-soled shoes (thanks Marie-Jo!).
Couldn't climb outside today, so had a great bouldering session downstairs. Unfortunately, the crags will probably start seeping now, shame but that's the way it is.....
[tr][td](https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TEzg1EosaQQ/WDSGq3EhTCI/AAAAAAAABKA/N2oIcDliflMQo_odlIIrg0rI7WgpeRrHQCLcB/s640/Eddie+and+Mandy%252C+Verdon+1997.bmp) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TEzg1EosaQQ/WDSGq3EhTCI/AAAAAAAABKA/N2oIcDliflMQo_odlIIrg0rI7WgpeRrHQCLcB/s1600/Eddie+and+Mandy%252C+Verdon+1997.bmp)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Eddie and Mandy in the Verdon, 1997.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0OrlIEr-WWk/WDSGyBSjbuI/AAAAAAAABKE/JfJUJwCjkKIsajCB-65PqitKVulyL71WACLcB/s640/017.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-0OrlIEr-WWk/WDSGyBSjbuI/AAAAAAAABKE/JfJUJwCjkKIsajCB-65PqitKVulyL71WACLcB/s1600/017.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Eddie and Mandy arriving at Courchon.[/td][/tr]
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(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-T15z_AyKHpA/WDSG0nqrEBI/AAAAAAAABKI/8Cc1blLSOgYfG6EuHbhF0xbBZ3oWkoHuQCLcB/s640/016.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-T15z_AyKHpA/WDSG0nqrEBI/AAAAAAAABKI/8Cc1blLSOgYfG6EuHbhF0xbBZ3oWkoHuQCLcB/s1600/016.jpg)
[tr][td](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MCthhHzPR_A/WDSG68VljLI/AAAAAAAABKM/Lw5k_QsHYuQyt9Z35BBdDtcGDpNyL2n1ACLcB/s640/037.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MCthhHzPR_A/WDSG68VljLI/AAAAAAAABKM/Lw5k_QsHYuQyt9Z35BBdDtcGDpNyL2n1ACLcB/s1600/037.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Mandy warming up on Diplodocus, part 1, 6c.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Xp1Y4kSO-8I/WDSG9Kb7HFI/AAAAAAAABKQ/f_NVVhmfzrcV8hqbfWmxLWzKGgeU7REcQCLcB/s640/042.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Xp1Y4kSO-8I/WDSG9Kb7HFI/AAAAAAAABKQ/f_NVVhmfzrcV8hqbfWmxLWzKGgeU7REcQCLcB/s1600/042.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Eddie on Cayenne, 7c+.[/td][/tr]
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(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FZ7C7WfEUVA/WDSHAPT7oPI/AAAAAAAABKU/RpQ6kaoOz2A8X9kgUb-vmUpYwGcupHQUACLcB/s640/043.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FZ7C7WfEUVA/WDSHAPT7oPI/AAAAAAAABKU/RpQ6kaoOz2A8X9kgUb-vmUpYwGcupHQUACLcB/s1600/043.jpg)
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QJAf5HP0leY/WDSHCKlPJ-I/AAAAAAAABKY/jansyRvfpZcgKHhWD4nhkaWx8Pr31VQ6gCLcB/s640/045.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QJAf5HP0leY/WDSHCKlPJ-I/AAAAAAAABKY/jansyRvfpZcgKHhWD4nhkaWx8Pr31VQ6gCLcB/s1600/045.jpg)
[tr][td](https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-m06AvQ35P2E/WDSHHwK9oZI/AAAAAAAABKc/FrDAPYgjtkM1zilsRZhYCt-4Kj-urHKDQCLcB/s640/084.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-m06AvQ35P2E/WDSHHwK9oZI/AAAAAAAABKc/FrDAPYgjtkM1zilsRZhYCt-4Kj-urHKDQCLcB/s1600/084.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The girls warming up at St Cezaire.[/td][/tr]
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(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wrGXIIWOGIM/WDSHLJrt2dI/AAAAAAAABKg/jLc2XeE6YakZh832uY9DxCYo2UGBeiNSwCLcB/s640/086.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-wrGXIIWOGIM/WDSHLJrt2dI/AAAAAAAABKg/jLc2XeE6YakZh832uY9DxCYo2UGBeiNSwCLcB/s1600/086.jpg)
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8Tugdo1egds/WDSHN_fRGGI/AAAAAAAABKk/FRg_Wt5pVAQr-hn82az81KngWMHE-zcDwCLcB/s640/087.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8Tugdo1egds/WDSHN_fRGGI/AAAAAAAABKk/FRg_Wt5pVAQr-hn82az81KngWMHE-zcDwCLcB/s1600/087.jpg)
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AsM6q8ye8WI/WDSHSFLwVXI/AAAAAAAABKo/xSODuSzQTpkKquo_wqmkMCF0ovDQrPZEQCLcB/s640/088.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AsM6q8ye8WI/WDSHSFLwVXI/AAAAAAAABKo/xSODuSzQTpkKquo_wqmkMCF0ovDQrPZEQCLcB/s1600/088.jpg)
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DVnQzaQI3rc/WDSHUBuD7vI/AAAAAAAABKs/UJevk21vUpEsRP9uPU9fIlDB9v3zEsTXgCLcB/s640/090.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-DVnQzaQI3rc/WDSHUBuD7vI/AAAAAAAABKs/UJevk21vUpEsRP9uPU9fIlDB9v3zEsTXgCLcB/s1600/090.jpg)
[tr][td](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iFwqg7ihRVQ/WDSHZQ80cZI/AAAAAAAABKw/OakRSci9mG8ep39GjGSMotTFipK4Se9IwCLcB/s640/Eddie+on+Babo+babo%252C+Courchon.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-iFwqg7ihRVQ/WDSHZQ80cZI/AAAAAAAABKw/OakRSci9mG8ep39GjGSMotTFipK4Se9IwCLcB/s1600/Eddie+on+Babo+babo%252C+Courchon.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Eddie trying Babo Babo at Courchon.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mBuNBE6ahL0/WDSHb_rnOqI/AAAAAAAABK0/psVcj5iHKHAqhnz0XlBqtTyQTTDdo8pFACLcB/s640/Elaine%252C+Cayenne.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mBuNBE6ahL0/WDSHb_rnOqI/AAAAAAAABK0/psVcj5iHKHAqhnz0XlBqtTyQTTDdo8pFACLcB/s1600/Elaine%252C+Cayenne.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Elaine having a play on Cayenne.[/td][/tr]
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(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2FIjIvIR40I/WDSHjxhKH9I/AAAAAAAABK4/LtvqOP5p7VAEZwUvimtxV57QRbCN6-gGACLcB/s640/066.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2FIjIvIR40I/WDSHjxhKH9I/AAAAAAAABK4/LtvqOP5p7VAEZwUvimtxV57QRbCN6-gGACLcB/s1600/066.jpg)
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XPodXm0MbK4/WDSHm9WIVnI/AAAAAAAABK8/KWM5OYYBAj86ljjzFvFdgbN6vTvD0OnvgCLcB/s640/068.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-XPodXm0MbK4/WDSHm9WIVnI/AAAAAAAABK8/KWM5OYYBAj86ljjzFvFdgbN6vTvD0OnvgCLcB/s1600/068.jpg)
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kiOnEXLL4ys/WDSHqno1t_I/AAAAAAAABLA/PziJr_krXUQ8Wonup6r7ncih_igjqtE2QCLcB/s640/073.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kiOnEXLL4ys/WDSHqno1t_I/AAAAAAAABLA/PziJr_krXUQ8Wonup6r7ncih_igjqtE2QCLcB/s1600/073.jpg)
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XqcRMl-dSmo/WDSHtIPqifI/AAAAAAAABLE/8O9v-ouRhOwaElGhB_C1s1Tj3ECq3JwJgCLcB/s640/095.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XqcRMl-dSmo/WDSHtIPqifI/AAAAAAAABLE/8O9v-ouRhOwaElGhB_C1s1Tj3ECq3JwJgCLcB/s1600/095.jpg)
Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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The rain in Spain .... Climbing in Rumenes. (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2014/08/the-rain-in-spain.html)
17 August 2014, 2:06 pm
We know that we've returned to the Mediterranean because the sky is blue. We've missed the sun so much during the past few weeks.
The main objective was to visit Cantabria and Asturias in northern Spain as a result of buying Richie Patterson's excellent new topo "Roca Verde". However the forecast was bad so we stuck to the sunny side of Spain to begin with.
[tr][td](https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-F2J6CFiej44/U_CletjC5mI/AAAAAAAAAnk/WqIiPR4st_E/s1600/054.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-F2J6CFiej44/U_CletjC5mI/AAAAAAAAAnk/WqIiPR4st_E/s1600/054.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The view from our doss spot high above La Hermida, Cantabria[/td][/tr]
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First destination was a fairly new cliff called Culla about an hour north of Valencia. Thanks to Dave and Rhian Cross for the excellent info. However it was very tough on the Scali getting down the 2.5km track to a perfect doss spot overlooking the crag. The crag was in the shade with plenty of wind, we had the place to ourselves and the routes were on fantastic colonettes. Due to the uncertainty of not being able to get the Scali back up the track we decided to drive back up that evening (after doing Mojo Pican, a really nice 7a+, Mojita Matata, a great 7b+ and working a really long 7c). It was touch and go and needed some rally driving to make it back up. We made the long walk the following day instead which was an uphill killer at the end of the day in the full sun. (That day I did one of the best 7c's I've ever done called El Poder del Keler but I couldn't hang on the slopey crux of Generacion del Silencio, 7b+!) After that we decided to go somewhere else with a much shorter walk in.
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aFwUQHDc62s/U_Ci_94ZjEI/AAAAAAAAAmg/yw_MmQ0pm5M/s1600/006.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aFwUQHDc62s/U_Ci_94ZjEI/AAAAAAAAAmg/yw_MmQ0pm5M/s1600/006.jpg)
[tr][td](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qchhTQUc0H0/U_CjOaivxII/AAAAAAAAAnA/g1XGIWAR9nc/s1600/007.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-qchhTQUc0H0/U_CjOaivxII/AAAAAAAAAnA/g1XGIWAR9nc/s1600/007.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Tufa paradise[/td][/tr]
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(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kqmYALsy0lQ/U_CjMjyN1WI/AAAAAAAAAmw/rKF5n3oIe2U/s1600/009.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-kqmYALsy0lQ/U_CjMjyN1WI/AAAAAAAAAmw/rKF5n3oIe2U/s1600/009.jpg)
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nGiWRmUVxLo/U_CjLLh67TI/AAAAAAAAAmo/rGeuB0Fqrvw/s1600/017.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nGiWRmUVxLo/U_CjLLh67TI/AAAAAAAAAmo/rGeuB0Fqrvw/s1600/017.jpg)
[tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nhUZBeB_FhA/U_CjMltHTzI/AAAAAAAAAm0/gp1JSpjuYDI/s1600/10561683_10202190050585381_141087117249484880_n.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nhUZBeB_FhA/U_CjMltHTzI/AAAAAAAAAm0/gp1JSpjuYDI/s1600/10561683_10202190050585381_141087117249484880_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]El Fronton at Culla from the end of the track (photo by Elaine Owen)[/td][/tr]
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Somewhere we'd never been to was Onati in the Basque. After only 2 minutes walk in I was motivated to do the 2 great looking tufa climbs where you arrive at the crag (Sonata, 7c and Mamba, 8a). However with very high humidity the climbing was hard work and it took me so long to do Sonata (completely pumped and covered in sweat) that I didn't bother even trying Mamba. It was great to make new friends, Gaizka and Sergio were really helpful and always good fun at the crag. Unfortunately, we never saw the sun during the 3 days we were there and we got fed up of the humidity and the rain.
It was finally time to drive on to Asturias at last. Driving along the autopista the scenery reminded us of North Wales. The mountains rise very steeply just a couple of km inland from the Atlantic in much the same way that the Carneddau rise above the villages of Penmaenmawr and Llanfairfechan. There was another similarity in that they were very often hidden by dark clouds and rain!
From the topo we sussed out the places that would keep us entertained: Poo de Cabrales and Rumenes. Both crags have plenty of colos and enough shade for summer cragging. The lower sector at Poo has great short routes from 6b+ to 7a which are super warm ups. The upper "Chorreras" crag is great for onsighting from 7a to 7b+ (the harder routes are not as good). The best routes we did were Mociviellos (6b+), Cencerrada (7a), Alanvista (7a+), Entremedusas (7b) and Kalima (7b+). Richie says that the 7c+ at El Corralito is very good and the 8a+ looks brilliant (though has probably only had one ascent apparently).
[tr][td](https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-S6OAy4tBvVw/U_ClLfUS7dI/AAAAAAAAAnU/yQNSYvf0c2I/s1600/040.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-S6OAy4tBvVw/U_ClLfUS7dI/AAAAAAAAAnU/yQNSYvf0c2I/s1600/040.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Dave and Rhian Cross on the 7a+ part of El dia del arquero at Rumenes[/td][/tr]
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Ahhhh, Rumenes. What wonderful climbs there are to do there, long colonettes and not too steep. The canyon is so impressive and there is so much rock everywhere. It is an equippers paradise, if you're prepared to walk some. There will be a lot of development in the coming years. DON'T FORGET TO BUY THE TOPO BECAUSE RICHIE IS DONATING 20% FOR EQUIPPING. PLEASE DON'T PHOTOCOPY.
[tr][td](http://rocaverdeclimbing.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/IMG_3703-Mike-1.jpg) (http://rocaverdeclimbing.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/IMG_3703-Mike-1.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Sindrome de Stendhal, 50m of tufa heaven makes a great 8a (photo by Richie Patterson)[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-daKZNlXfi3U/U_ClJ68WagI/AAAAAAAAAnM/8gtSyclWRbk/s1600/034.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-daKZNlXfi3U/U_ClJ68WagI/AAAAAAAAAnM/8gtSyclWRbk/s1600/034.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Jan from Czech Republic on the brilliant Rumenes power y al vino, 7a+[/td][/tr]
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(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-efUDB9X7zZQ/U_ClVezAEhI/AAAAAAAAAnc/HwQhu6sPtxw/s1600/036.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-efUDB9X7zZQ/U_ClVezAEhI/AAAAAAAAAnc/HwQhu6sPtxw/s1600/036.jpg)
[tr][td](https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-l6eVGOMHPJc/U_Clnov0AyI/AAAAAAAAAns/PJNpG4cBXj8/s1600/063.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-l6eVGOMHPJc/U_Clnov0AyI/AAAAAAAAAns/PJNpG4cBXj8/s1600/063.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Asia from Poland flashing the excellent Cinderella Man, 7c[/td][/tr]
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(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZGoa1c8qI80/U_ClppmY8pI/AAAAAAAAAn0/ZxUe9iy8l_c/s1600/065.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZGoa1c8qI80/U_ClppmY8pI/AAAAAAAAAn0/ZxUe9iy8l_c/s1600/065.jpg)
All the climbs at sector Chorreras are well worth doing, especially Rumenes power y al vino (one of the best 7a+'s anywhere) and the 50m 8a classic Sindrome de Stendhal. There are plenty of places to park up in the camper van in peace. On rest days the food and beer is very cheap in the climbers bar in La Hermida (Posada la Cuadrona) and there is a hot spring under the bridge.
We didn't get to Teverga which is the other must go to destination, though much more sunnier. That'll be at the top of the list for next time. The region is one of the most beautiful places I have ever been to, the climbing is fantastic and the topo is amazing and so inspiring. I can't wait to go back.
Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Not as good as the 1st time but still flippin' great! Return to Kalymnos. (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2014/09/not-as-good-as-1st-time-but-still.html)
28 September 2014, 4:05 pm
It seemed a good idea to go to Kalymnos. According to the topo there should have been a strong northerly wind blowing (called the Meltemi) to keep the humidity down and make climbing in September reasonable.
In reality there was no wind and most of the time the crags were damp and suffering from the Gogarth/LPT soap. Temps were around 32 degrees C and the humidity was up around 80% which made it pretty unpleasant for climbing, lathered in sweat, red faced and panting like a dog each time we tied into the rope!
The outcome was far different from Easter last year. Unfortunately it wasn't possible to do many of the harder routes on my rather long hit list. Still it wasn't a waste of time either. During the 3 weeks we visited lots of different secteurs and climbed lots of amazing steep tufas. Which is what people go to Kalymnos for. We made lots of new friends and even met up with friends we'd not seen for many years.
Despite the heat, the humidity, lots of polished footholds and the crowds I still believe Kalymnos is one of the best places I have climbed at. Where else, for example, can you go and climb amazing 6c's on blobby tufas, like at Ghost Kitchen and Secret Garden? Or have an entire crag to yourselves covered in quality routes, like at Galatiani or Sikati Cave? Or eat fantastic Greek food for 8 Euros per person, like at Noufaro's?
What a pity though that we had to drive to Milan Bergamo again to catch the Ryanair flight and have to suffer the crazy Italian drivers on the autopista around Milan!
[tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ijyIAUE2YbY/VCgkQ8owvkI/AAAAAAAAApk/Qz1rqBvzXTE/s1600/005.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ijyIAUE2YbY/VCgkQ8owvkI/AAAAAAAAApk/Qz1rqBvzXTE/s1600/005.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Arriving on Kalymnos[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lTvzFp89byY/VCgkipKAi5I/AAAAAAAAAps/n1p-k205oGg/s1600/014.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-lTvzFp89byY/VCgkipKAi5I/AAAAAAAAAps/n1p-k205oGg/s1600/014.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Our accomodation (shame about the Swedish witch above!)[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-folzz7Hwf3c/VCgkubVN06I/AAAAAAAAAp0/onbDCcUZ7ls/s1600/022.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-folzz7Hwf3c/VCgkubVN06I/AAAAAAAAAp0/onbDCcUZ7ls/s1600/022.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Tools of the trade[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-16XJP8nXRxg/VCglAnzWtiI/AAAAAAAAAp8/NA7SMj3Lc9A/s1600/008.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-16XJP8nXRxg/VCglAnzWtiI/AAAAAAAAAp8/NA7SMj3Lc9A/s1600/008.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]There's beer![/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FV9F1gqwUG4/VCglMFFzBGI/AAAAAAAAAqE/lidMGI01Uvc/s1600/009.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-FV9F1gqwUG4/VCglMFFzBGI/AAAAAAAAAqE/lidMGI01Uvc/s1600/009.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]And good food too![/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IakS64mkjwo/VCgla7fWtaI/AAAAAAAAAqM/4dLvGkmp4xo/s1600/029.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IakS64mkjwo/VCgla7fWtaI/AAAAAAAAAqM/4dLvGkmp4xo/s1600/029.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Our wheels below Ghost Kitchen[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8jmjfPkZftA/VCgl6z1cK_I/AAAAAAAAAqU/FI3dqbhod8w/s1600/011.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-8jmjfPkZftA/VCgl6z1cK_I/AAAAAAAAAqU/FI3dqbhod8w/s1600/011.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Andy Chambers on the brilliant Frapogalo (6c) at Secret Garden[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0TdgxD8RR-Q/VCgmLPmb9eI/AAAAAAAAAqc/xhgUrfLLau4/s1600/031.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0TdgxD8RR-Q/VCgmLPmb9eI/AAAAAAAAAqc/xhgUrfLLau4/s1600/031.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Elaine on the tricky Dafni (6c+) at Ghost Kitchen[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nTktlsUX_R4/VCgmTLBAmAI/AAAAAAAAAqk/zCmKt96wHGM/s1600/034.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-nTktlsUX_R4/VCgmTLBAmAI/AAAAAAAAAqk/zCmKt96wHGM/s1600/034.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Spot the climber on Morgan (7b+) in Sikati Cave[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PzEW4FWp28Q/VCgmc4oGaHI/AAAAAAAAAqs/UuuLe2eXW6g/s1600/041.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PzEW4FWp28Q/VCgmc4oGaHI/AAAAAAAAAqs/UuuLe2eXW6g/s1600/041.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Surreal landscape in the bottom of Sikati Cave[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pnwu2cuisKk/VCgm_2l69-I/AAAAAAAAAq8/KGLCcyhAsJs/s1600/048.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-pnwu2cuisKk/VCgm_2l69-I/AAAAAAAAAq8/KGLCcyhAsJs/s1600/048.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]French climber on the mega Calcite Star Plus (7b+) at Galatiani[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iqrlQlEX-M4/VCgnBLQcLtI/AAAAAAAAArE/qWrxNjUUfGs/s1600/054.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iqrlQlEX-M4/VCgnBLQcLtI/AAAAAAAAArE/qWrxNjUUfGs/s1600/054.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The same French climber on Feuerdorn (7a honest!) at Galatiani[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iAnnp7-cPbk/VCgm5wq9CTI/AAAAAAAAAq0/FzfnkwjPQPA/s1600/068.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-iAnnp7-cPbk/VCgm5wq9CTI/AAAAAAAAAq0/FzfnkwjPQPA/s1600/068.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Look at those incredible tufas on Armata Sikati (7b) in Sikati Cave[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3xGzeN1wa5g/VCgnt-iJkKI/AAAAAAAAArU/tBMkC2P5au8/s1600/073.jpg) (http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-3xGzeN1wa5g/VCgnt-iJkKI/AAAAAAAAArU/tBMkC2P5au8/s1600/073.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Austrian climber sending one of the best 7c+'s anywhere: Marci Marc in a Force 7 (one of the few days there was actually some wind!). Elaine looks cold![/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ItWTd1vAtc8/VCgnyhy8EmI/AAAAAAAAArc/zWnut01oscY/s1600/20140922_121849.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ItWTd1vAtc8/VCgnyhy8EmI/AAAAAAAAArc/zWnut01oscY/s1600/20140922_121849.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Yours truly at the knee bar rest above all the hard climbing on the mega Gegoune (7c) at Galatiani[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mwlBGFNho7g/VCgndZ8e8aI/AAAAAAAAArM/dM7H2FbOLRg/s1600/20140925_071326.jpg) (http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-mwlBGFNho7g/VCgndZ8e8aI/AAAAAAAAArM/dM7H2FbOLRg/s1600/20140925_071326.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Sunrise whilst leaving Kalymnos[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-k9WDGekq5nc/VCgn4VYP-iI/AAAAAAAAArk/P9uARzjy3SA/s1600/017.jpg) (http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-k9WDGekq5nc/VCgn4VYP-iI/AAAAAAAAArk/P9uARzjy3SA/s1600/017.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The view from Ghost Kitchen[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HD9etq7YiiM/VCgn7suemDI/AAAAAAAAArs/xSBx8eARFOc/s1600/056.jpg) (http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HD9etq7YiiM/VCgn7suemDI/AAAAAAAAArs/xSBx8eARFOc/s1600/056.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Telendos from our apartment[/td][/tr]
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Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Easter in Slovenia and Croatia (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2017/05/its-been-long-time-since-ive-written.html)
3 May 2017, 6:22 pm
It's been a long time since I've written. I think that's because we haven't really done anything that was much worth writing about. So, here goes....
Christmas and Feb half term were spent climbing in the sun above Moustiers Sainte-Marie in the beautiful Gorges du Verdon. As usual, the crags were very quiet, the climbing fantastic and the grades were tough.
[tr][td](https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MSzXtCmPMlc/WQoNngGBJNI/AAAAAAAABM0/ovqKQ5SdyvA1jvecy8dMMlrwLhIkou9OQCLcB/s640/002.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-MSzXtCmPMlc/WQoNngGBJNI/AAAAAAAABM0/ovqKQ5SdyvA1jvecy8dMMlrwLhIkou9OQCLcB/s1600/002.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Bipolaire, 7a at Courchon[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-M7leJx8wDzk/WQoNaw_VGUI/AAAAAAAABMw/GeQVafXcpFQJSqzHsc7D37RZF1IenZQPwCLcB/s640/005.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-M7leJx8wDzk/WQoNaw_VGUI/AAAAAAAABMw/GeQVafXcpFQJSqzHsc7D37RZF1IenZQPwCLcB/s1600/005.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Olivier red pointing Un air de famille, 7c+ at Corchon[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VsqafjVYBx0/WQoQyKe3RnI/AAAAAAAABNI/rTQF-t6VOMw7M9esBVh0c4DMUfDj1BMOQCLcB/s640/094.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-VsqafjVYBx0/WQoQyKe3RnI/AAAAAAAABNI/rTQF-t6VOMw7M9esBVh0c4DMUfDj1BMOQCLcB/s1600/094.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Casse-bonbons, 7c+ at Baume Blanche[/td][/tr]
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Throughout the winter we've been using our board quite a lot for bouldering and for circuits. Elaine has made really good progress, especially on the circuits and her fingers are working well at the moment, despite some soreness/stiffness afterwards. My training was going well, with the specific goals of getting fit enough to do the two big ones that beat me last year (Et dieu creer la flamme and Triste Lune) hopefully quickly and early on in May. Outside, I managed to do Christophe Louis' fantastic Inch of dust (7c+) at Le Discret in one session, although I had tried the start previously.
Easter was coming and we fancied going somewhere new (at least for us) and quiet. That obviously meant going in the opposite direction to usual, ie. not towards Spain! We decided to head to Slovenia and Croatia, specifically the crags at Osp and Buzetski Kanjon. We were amazed how quick and easy it is to get there: only 8 hours! However, you do have to suffer the crazy Italian drivers (never a pleasure). Initially, we were both suffering from colds and allergies, so after one night on the village campsite (which is very basic and expensive) we moved into a lovely modern hostel, which we had all to ourselves (apart from 2 nights) for the whole time. Apartmaji Pod Kostanji is run by Carmen (who speaks English and many other languages) and is not much more than the cost of camping. Fully recommended!
[tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PAZ3iF3QE-Y/WQoMg6ge-5I/AAAAAAAABMk/7FYdV3UzAdYOnkggFKckqpH61KfDVMlwACLcB/s640/17854958_10208432465081842_8837235098534522446_o.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PAZ3iF3QE-Y/WQoMg6ge-5I/AAAAAAAABMk/7FYdV3UzAdYOnkggFKckqpH61KfDVMlwACLcB/s1600/17854958_10208432465081842_8837235098534522446_o.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Lukjna cave at Osp. Wow!! Very steep and very big.[/td][/tr]
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The climbing:
Misja Pec (Osp); Awesome with plenty of king lines but it's so polished. Basically we were about 25 years too late, seriously! The 7a warm ups were nails and finished you off for the day! I wasn't brave enough to try anything harder than 7b, and that took me 3 goes.
Befana (Buzetski): More climber friendly, not polished and normal grades. Long routes but a fairly small sector. Busy. Great for 7a up to 7c up overhanging tufas.
[tr][td](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9rVrlnMAga8/WQoLF9sKE2I/AAAAAAAABL8/9V5H1RTzo1YNZCAQkmhxPltJCOfVMEOdgCLcB/s640/thumbnail_20170414_143249.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-9rVrlnMAga8/WQoLF9sKE2I/AAAAAAAABL8/9V5H1RTzo1YNZCAQkmhxPltJCOfVMEOdgCLcB/s1600/thumbnail_20170414_143249.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Befana, 7c at Buzetski Kanjon[/td][/tr]
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Lukjna (Osp): This is totally world class and like a bigger version of Grande Grotta. Stamina is the name of the game here. Very steep climbing on tufa blobs with lots of funky climbing, ie. knee bars and heel hooks. Some of the routes here are 55 metres, so you need a long rope (through the draws are in place on most). This crag has the highest concentration of hard routes in Slovenia, apparently. The left wall has about 8 routes between 7a and 7c up tufas, all of which are about 30 metres long. The main cave is another world and just has to be tried. Interestingly, it gets flooded most winters and there's a lake at the bottom (a very deep lake from the clearly visible high water mark!). The perfect crag, whether you're trying to red point your first 7a or 9a, as long as you like your climbing on the beefy side!
[tr][td](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GCVm9F9DF-s/WQoLOTciJPI/AAAAAAAABMA/aQots8rX14A8EYYdyzj-ViAAokfGRF_1wCLcB/s640/thumbnail_20170417_144922.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-GCVm9F9DF-s/WQoLOTciJPI/AAAAAAAABMA/aQots8rX14A8EYYdyzj-ViAAokfGRF_1wCLcB/s1600/thumbnail_20170417_144922.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Trzaska smer, 7b+[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XhbsoxM_SoI/WQoLaQvWuaI/AAAAAAAABME/GqoQiEsrYWYfWj32es1X5_d9ehktOZqcgCLcB/s640/18010369_10208474168324397_3211420563208348037_n.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XhbsoxM_SoI/WQoLaQvWuaI/AAAAAAAABME/GqoQiEsrYWYfWj32es1X5_d9ehktOZqcgCLcB/s1600/18010369_10208474168324397_3211420563208348037_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Ana working Helihopter v omaki, 8b[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zRxQXilhFfc/WQoLchAuZ4I/AAAAAAAABMI/3PzFiZ_miv0MiyM5oZOeYTcUnbD1wEm6gCLcB/s640/18010442_10208498690657440_4048819233166293387_n.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zRxQXilhFfc/WQoLchAuZ4I/AAAAAAAABMI/3PzFiZ_miv0MiyM5oZOeYTcUnbD1wEm6gCLcB/s1600/18010442_10208498690657440_4048819233166293387_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Approaching the crux on Trojanski konj, 7c+ (same start as Laokoon, 8a)[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Bfb7EXzReaQ/WQoLeHT6qsI/AAAAAAAABMM/-hKDYut8QW4SRqa2y2HF_VAl2NXe8RmoACLcB/s640/17991135_10208482616495596_4839912447508383380_n.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Bfb7EXzReaQ/WQoLeHT6qsI/AAAAAAAABMM/-hKDYut8QW4SRqa2y2HF_VAl2NXe8RmoACLcB/s1600/17991135_10208482616495596_4839912447508383380_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Bitka s stalaktiti, 8b and 55m long. Looks so good.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QIKU7313gUI/WQoLtq00SfI/AAAAAAAABMQ/aymvG4DZkPM08LKRtq7_6LHULQ6wj9EEwCLcB/s640/160.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-QIKU7313gUI/WQoLtq00SfI/AAAAAAAABMQ/aymvG4DZkPM08LKRtq7_6LHULQ6wj9EEwCLcB/s1600/160.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The 8a part of Active discharge[/td][/tr]
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Elaine had a great indoor session at Plus Climbing gym in Koper. Lots of volumes and World Cup style bouldering.
(https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QKrAkTUfEq4/WQoL7NUSkhI/AAAAAAAABMU/ej3bWXom2scnhjgy-TcXOlkbaL75TafzACLcB/s640/142.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-QKrAkTUfEq4/WQoL7NUSkhI/AAAAAAAABMU/ej3bWXom2scnhjgy-TcXOlkbaL75TafzACLcB/s1600/142.jpg)
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6KcqYjX1vI8/WQoL_Uw5edI/AAAAAAAABMY/ry0fks--X4kTmtpSy4sDc6GTvU3BcF5VwCLcB/s640/144.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-6KcqYjX1vI8/WQoL_Uw5edI/AAAAAAAABMY/ry0fks--X4kTmtpSy4sDc6GTvU3BcF5VwCLcB/s1600/144.jpg)
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--pFCqE1BsJE/WQoMDkjQaaI/AAAAAAAABMc/W5ezc4iDjPgFElAhRMcVEmaVzcTk4tiugCLcB/s640/145.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--pFCqE1BsJE/WQoMDkjQaaI/AAAAAAAABMc/W5ezc4iDjPgFElAhRMcVEmaVzcTk4tiugCLcB/s1600/145.jpg)
(https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Z6Z8G0Yi9qI/WQoMIWxng5I/AAAAAAAABMg/WlugxiE43xwXujvL4SByBOJAgjMG2uW5ACLcB/s640/151.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Z6Z8G0Yi9qI/WQoMIWxng5I/AAAAAAAABMg/WlugxiE43xwXujvL4SByBOJAgjMG2uW5ACLcB/s1600/151.jpg)
All was going so well, until the last go, on the last day. A partial tear to my right supra-spinatus means that I'm now out of action. Not sure how long that's going to be at the moment, until an arthroscanner tomorrow and a visit to a shoulder specialist next week. Physio is going well, so it might not need surgery and could mean climbing this summer. Obviously, those 2 Verdon projects are not going to happen this year! Still, can't complain: 43 years of climbing virtually non-stop every weekend, mid-week and holiday. Apart from 3 enforced layoffs due to broken bones (one motor bike crash and two climbing accidents when I was very young) I've been very lucky and have had no real injuries. It's obviously pay-back time. I'm enjoying the chance to have a well earned rest.
(https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LpNVxQMmnxk/WQoN1Jt7uyI/AAAAAAAABM4/-ZXaB4k-MFMn0Z3O0G51IovuTUdw5leFgCLcB/s400/17972433_10208474183604779_1760203417577661650_o.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-LpNVxQMmnxk/WQoN1Jt7uyI/AAAAAAAABM4/-ZXaB4k-MFMn0Z3O0G51IovuTUdw5leFgCLcB/s1600/17972433_10208474183604779_1760203417577661650_o.jpg)
Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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Life after shoulder surgery (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2017/07/life-after-shoulder-surgery.html)
9 July 2017, 2:00 pm
Two whole months, that's all of May and June so far. The first time in my life that I've not climbed for anywhere near that length of time. There's still all of July, August and September as well. Climbing has been my life; it has kept me active and very happy more or less every weekend, every holiday and as often as possible during the week as well, for over 43 years. I don't want to sound negative but it is hard work, waiting patiently for my body to recovery after surgery but I'll get there, I'm keeping positive.
What happened?
I heard a loud tearing noise in my shoulder whilst climbing a very steep route at Easter. I knew it was serious, despite much pain, but I was hoping it wouldn't need surgery to fix, alas I was wrong. I saw two excellent shoulder specialists who both recommended surgery. They both confirmed a partial tear in the supra-spinatus tendon (running along the top of the shoulder) and a slap tear in the long biceps tendon. The first injury was caused by a sudden shock load due to my feet cutting loose (my arms were actually in a crucifix position), the second was caused by long term wear and tear. Both surgeons said full recovery was expected with a return to climbing again after six months or so. Both injuries are fairly common in climbers.
What did the operation involve?
Dr Nicolas Brassart carried out the operation, which involved three parts. Firstly, the supra-spinatus tendon was reinforced and reattached to the scapula with Kevlar fibres and two anchor screws. Secondly, the long biceps tendon was cut and reattached lower down the humerous with two anchor screws. Thirdly, the acromion (a bone at the top of the shoulder joint) was shaved to prevent further pinching of the many tendons in the joint. The operation involved key-hole surgery, via four small incisions. It took one and a half hours under a general anaesthetic and I was in hospital for three days. I was signed off work for six weeks.
How's the recovery going?
My right arm and shoulder were totally immobilised for eight days and I was on strong pain killers and muscle relaxants for the first five days. After eight days I was able to remove the splint in the house and start doing some gentle pendulum exercises several times a day. However the arm and shoulder needed to be immobilised for sleeping and going outdoors. I started physiotherapy, with a really good sports physio here in our village, four weeks after the surgery, three times a week. Six weeks post op, I was able to stop wearing the splint completely and I can now use a 1 kg mass for the pendulums. I can now drive and do easy stuff around the house. Physio is going well and I'm making steady progress with gradually improving movement, though it's quite painful at times. Sleeping continues to be uncomfortable.
How long will recovery take?
Physio will continue into September. I have been told not to force my arm for the first three months to allow the shoulder to heal properly. Then it will be a case of re-building the atrophied muscles with specific exercises starting with light resistance. I am hoping to be up for some easy climbing by the October half term holiday.
I would like to give special thanks to Dr Brassart for carrying out such a good job and for his continued advise and encouragement, and all the staff at Clinique St Jean in Cagnes sur Mer for their help and care. Also, thanks to Patrick Vialli for all his patience and care with my physio.
Finally, I would like to thank all the people who have taken the time to offer me help, advice and encouragement via Facbook. No doubt I will see most of you again at some crag soon.
[tr][td](https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-coW_TSAGntU/WWImVLRUzUI/AAAAAAAABNY/t1Ac0C2n3Nsq32KifZ6fNGU_SnHFnmaMQCLcBGAs/s640/20170524_141554.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-coW_TSAGntU/WWImVLRUzUI/AAAAAAAABNY/t1Ac0C2n3Nsq32KifZ6fNGU_SnHFnmaMQCLcBGAs/s1600/20170524_141554.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Thumbs up one hour after the op when Elaine arrived.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-v5_K-v5Wla4/WWImZ-QhzKI/AAAAAAAABNc/4OhJ7sZsP8MfhuPvSO7hpFTYACCa6JLEQCLcBGAs/s640/20170525_155509.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-v5_K-v5Wla4/WWImZ-QhzKI/AAAAAAAABNc/4OhJ7sZsP8MfhuPvSO7hpFTYACCa6JLEQCLcBGAs/s1600/20170525_155509.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]A substantial arm splint and moobs (due to muscle relaxants!!!) one day post op. [/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2LsITwN-TTs/WWImfZg0HCI/AAAAAAAABNk/gx1dVYlycF4Ajt_3anqBuYyqcmPJuD_AgCLcBGAs/s640/ch1_image_003.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2LsITwN-TTs/WWImfZg0HCI/AAAAAAAABNk/gx1dVYlycF4Ajt_3anqBuYyqcmPJuD_AgCLcBGAs/s1600/ch1_image_003.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]A very frayed long biceps tendon.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UrhCszIa6AQ/WWImha7l3fI/AAAAAAAABNg/PTROouNEuM8XqyM-9W0v3uJ1f74wO6hfwCLcBGAs/s640/ch1_image_005.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-UrhCszIa6AQ/WWImha7l3fI/AAAAAAAABNg/PTROouNEuM8XqyM-9W0v3uJ1f74wO6hfwCLcBGAs/s1600/ch1_image_005.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Reattaching the supra-spinatus tendon.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1YczJ92rotE/WWImpbiuhxI/AAAAAAAABNo/HHAh96iAUcsxwCZw-vL5IKcYETqLemaKwCLcBGAs/s640/20170528_095854.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-1YczJ92rotE/WWImpbiuhxI/AAAAAAAABNo/HHAh96iAUcsxwCZw-vL5IKcYETqLemaKwCLcBGAs/s1600/20170528_095854.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Not much to see on the outside.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VrSoTAxCWsk/WWImu_7pyaI/AAAAAAAABNs/vzH5Bl-AuFAJ5ywYbhyBCP8wd0YVxvf2QCLcBGAs/s640/052.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VrSoTAxCWsk/WWImu_7pyaI/AAAAAAAABNs/vzH5Bl-AuFAJ5ywYbhyBCP8wd0YVxvf2QCLcBGAs/s1600/052.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Eight days post op, starting gentle pendulum swings.[/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hA4OjRqknMw/WWIm0SgBsbI/AAAAAAAABNw/nDo_IbW-dEkvbfCO8plGWMoc0BBmzgIOQCLcBGAs/s640/056.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hA4OjRqknMw/WWIm0SgBsbI/AAAAAAAABNw/nDo_IbW-dEkvbfCO8plGWMoc0BBmzgIOQCLcBGAs/s1600/056.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Four weeks post op, using a 1 kg mass for the pendulums.[/td][/tr]
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Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)
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The Owens' return to Britain (only joking, it was a holiday!) (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/2017/08/the-owens-return-to-britain-only-joking.html)
19 August 2017, 5:24 pm
What do you do when your physio goes on holiday and you can't go climbing? Visit Britain of course. To be more precise, visit the Yorkshire Dales and Snowdonia. Why not?
The shoulder has been making good, steady progress. With Patrick (my physio) going on holiday we had a little over three weeks before my next session. Elaine didn't want to go climbing in the summer heat (nor did I want to go to some awesome new crag, as it's way too early for me to even think of doing easy climbs). We needed a totally different kind of holiday this summer and decided to visit Britain, to go walking and climbing indoors.
We made the long journey north and took the ferry from Calais to Dover. It's amazing to think that we used to do that same journey six times a year, before we moved to France. Driving round the M25 reminded us just why we'd left Britain all those years ago. The weather was vile and driving conditions were awful. At least the British drivers were driving courteously and sticking to the speed limit. First destination was Elaine's cousins wedding reception in Buckingham (thanks for the bacon butties - we were so hungry!). It was great fun seeing the Scottish side of the family again: Susan, Michael, Graham and Bonny.
Next day we headed further north towards Settle in North Yorkshire, destination Settle Lodge Bed and Breakfast, to stay with Eddie and Mandy for a few days, to do some walking in The Dales and, of course, to enjoy Eddie's famous cooked breakfasts. We had a wonderful room with a great view, a very comfortable king sized bed, superb modern shower and the softest, fluffiest towels we came across during our stay in Britain. As usual they were both on fine form and had us in fits of laughter. The four of us made the classic walk round Gordale Scar, Malham Cove and Janet's Fosse, the scenery is still stunning after all these years. Unfortunately nobody was climbing but it was nice to be able to still visualise the moves on the starts of New Dawn, Zoolook and Raindogs. Standing there on The Catwalk surrounded by so many classic climbs was like saying "hello" to lots of old friends. On another occasion we took Ruff for a long walk up Ingleborough from Clapham (some thirty four years since the last trip up there during the Three Peaks Walk). Later in the week, we were unimpressed when we visited Kendal Climbing Centre: verdict very expensive for mediocre bouldering, unfriendly staff and not at all dog friendly. Ruff and I were ejected from an otherwise empty cafe by a surly young woman (having bought a sandwich and a coffee) and had to wait in the van whilst Elaine climbed. I really wouldn't recommend the place to anyone and I certainly wouldn't consider going there ever again. With a full weekend of bookings at Settle Lodge, we bade farewell to Eddie and Mandy and headed south towards Wales. En route we visited my sisters, Elaine's brother and The Hangar in Liverpool (quite possibly our favourite climbing wall; very dog friendly too).
We had got very much used to the luxury of Settle Lodge and decided against staying in the Cali, using the rain and my shoulder as perfect excuses. So we booked a nice little cottage on a working farm. Ty-Mawr Farm in Llandeiniolen was perfectly located for access to the mountains and The Beacon climbing wall.
The highlights of our two weeks in Snowdonia were undoubtedly meeting up with so many old friends (particularly my old climbing partners John Roberts, Brian Jones and Pete White) and walking and scrambling in the mountains, the very same place I learnt all my mountaineering skills as a teenager in the 70's. The landscape is still as beautiful and stunning as I remembered it. I think it's true to say that my heart definitely belongs in North Wales (despite the cold, wind and rain!).
By the way, we had so much fun that we'll probably be going back next summer. Any of our French friends fancy joining us to do some trad?| (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NDbX48KVbaI/WZlUBZuKWiI/AAAAAAAABQA/1hZsNe_6anUU6mymSNAMdxM8BZ8ZsJGHgCLcBGAs/s640/Mandy+showing+Ruff+how+to+work+out..jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-NDbX48KVbaI/WZlUBZuKWiI/AAAAAAAABQA/1hZsNe_6anUU6mymSNAMdxM8BZ8ZsJGHgCLcBGAs/s1600/Mandy+showing+Ruff+how+to+work+out..jpg) |
| Mandy showing Ruff how to work out on a wet day in Settle. |
[/t]
[tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3MM7VxA0iR8/WZhKqD-_XuI/AAAAAAAABPA/QsTEFDsMi-EHo1nrk935t1_V0O5Te5e1gCPcBGAYYCw/s640/014.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-3MM7VxA0iR8/WZhKqD-_XuI/AAAAAAAABPA/QsTEFDsMi-EHo1nrk935t1_V0O5Te5e1gCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/014.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Ruff enjoying the descent from Ingleborough.[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td](https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Jay-yNJEOP8/WZhKs7w3cXI/AAAAAAAABPA/Ymk51HeiQp0PuUux12-ynETixuXEMlNVwCPcBGAYYCw/s640/015.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Jay-yNJEOP8/WZhKs7w3cXI/AAAAAAAABPA/Ymk51HeiQp0PuUux12-ynETixuXEMlNVwCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/015.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Ruff getting all the attention at The Hangar.
[/t][/t]
[/t][tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OhZjxJ25Q9s/WZhKvi2WF0I/AAAAAAAABPA/yqz_S0t0gMcExjQpFbCIC8ZX0Er4tg1IACPcBGAYYCw/s640/020.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OhZjxJ25Q9s/WZhKvi2WF0I/AAAAAAAABPA/yqz_S0t0gMcExjQpFbCIC8ZX0Er4tg1IACPcBGAYYCw/s1600/020.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Elaine in the big cave at The Hangar.[/td][/tr]
[/table]
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| (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EzpUtSqVyCA/WZhKzgF4bhI/AAAAAAAABPA/6KhVF27fGvM31uRylFkutwnVr6lMtwUzQCPcBGAYYCw/s640/026.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-EzpUtSqVyCA/WZhKzgF4bhI/AAAAAAAABPA/6KhVF27fGvM31uRylFkutwnVr6lMtwUzQCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/026.jpg) | | I started climbing with these guys: Pete White, John Roberts and Brian Jones. | [/t][/t][/t][/t]
|
| (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-F8TDYlaekjY/WZhK7McVhgI/AAAAAAAABPA/iDneEhgmVVA4kZpjobicqz74IIbMh5gogCPcBGAYYCw/s640/030.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-F8TDYlaekjY/WZhK7McVhgI/AAAAAAAABPA/iDneEhgmVVA4kZpjobicqz74IIbMh5gogCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/030.jpg) | | A chilly day to be on the summit of Pen Yr Ole Wen, looking towards Tryfan, Glyder Fach and Llyn Idwal (Snowdon hidden in cloud on the right). | [/t][/t][/t][/t]
|
[tr] [td][tr][td](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-s9QBIyVlpno/WZhK9EhTR7I/AAAAAAAABPA/g3I4NeTt2MoN5-YGPFfngT4HMbgITzXfgCPcBGAYYCw/s640/037.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-s9QBIyVlpno/WZhK9EhTR7I/AAAAAAAABPA/g3I4NeTt2MoN5-YGPFfngT4HMbgITzXfgCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/037.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]
| Imagine bumping into Martin Crook and Mel Griffiths at The Beacon?[/t][/t][/t][/t][/t] |
[tr][td](https://4.bp.blogspot.com/--Qk877oOmJI/WZhLDIB4gmI/AAAAAAAABPA/lZ4dHg3lp5knP1dzw2ZNKTMuXSmIEoI-wCPcBGAYYCw/s640/045.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/--Qk877oOmJI/WZhLDIB4gmI/AAAAAAAABPA/lZ4dHg3lp5knP1dzw2ZNKTMuXSmIEoI-wCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/045.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Elaine in the big cave at The Beacon.[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td]
[/td][/tr]
| (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g0Fv7azwonI/WZhLH-gyXVI/AAAAAAAABPA/WuhpGCDLTqM8lJ-HpFmO9yhu71AE7L50wCPcBGAYYCw/s640/047.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-g0Fv7azwonI/WZhLH-gyXVI/AAAAAAAABPA/WuhpGCDLTqM8lJ-HpFmO9yhu71AE7L50wCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/047.jpg) | | We also bumped into Bonny Masson as well. | [/t][/t][/t][/t]
|
[tr][td](https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fQ6UUCkmUws/WZhNtl8RCuI/AAAAAAAABP0/NLZfQFGc0CM3LIHToDkiDYtpQLrRtk1zACPcBGAYYCw/s640/087.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-fQ6UUCkmUws/WZhNtl8RCuI/AAAAAAAABP0/NLZfQFGc0CM3LIHToDkiDYtpQLrRtk1zACPcBGAYYCw/s1600/087.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Al Stewart in The Beacon's big cave.[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td][/td][/tr]
[tr][td](https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HKgHP80pVgc/WZhNd3a-vnI/AAAAAAAABP0/Unl07gU5QkA2aTFruvPhyPzqTFbWyx0DwCPcBGAYYCw/s640/20545169_10209358115582526_7015106209031191699_o.jpg) (https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HKgHP80pVgc/WZhNd3a-vnI/AAAAAAAABP0/Unl07gU5QkA2aTFruvPhyPzqTFbWyx0DwCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/20545169_10209358115582526_7015106209031191699_o.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Coffee on the sofa. Al Stewart, Ken Latham, Elaine, me, Denise and Brian Jones, Sarah and John Peake.[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td][/td][/tr]
[tr] [td][tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Nl7i2xubY1k/WZhNihFULqI/AAAAAAAABP0/K1tZ3fZj3F4sXoNuf2NcJHvR4oF6Os6rgCPcBGAYYCw/s640/20664121_10209366725237762_5968268780501998746_n.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Nl7i2xubY1k/WZhNihFULqI/AAAAAAAABP0/K1tZ3fZj3F4sXoNuf2NcJHvR4oF6Os6rgCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/20664121_10209366725237762_5968268780501998746_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Mick Lovatt gave us a guided tour of the Lleyn crags.[/td][/tr]
[/table][/td] [/tr]
[tr][td](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MYh5DbiZBlY/WZhLgkjFt3I/AAAAAAAABPA/7qAVmPRPdy8yYrkH2WBANT6SIx0OtWhCQCPcBGAYYCw/s640/070.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-MYh5DbiZBlY/WZhLgkjFt3I/AAAAAAAABPA/7qAVmPRPdy8yYrkH2WBANT6SIx0OtWhCQCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/070.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]View from Mynydd Perfedd, L to R: Tryfan, Glyder Fach, Foel Goch (closest), Glyder Fawr (most distant) and Y Garn.[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td][/td][/tr]
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[tr][td](https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tWr5bUHLb1A/WZhLodYQe6I/AAAAAAAABPA/3QFF6ta4-BcR7TPdftidqL5ZwRWwJx8EQCPcBGAYYCw/s640/094.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tWr5bUHLb1A/WZhLodYQe6I/AAAAAAAABPA/3QFF6ta4-BcR7TPdftidqL5ZwRWwJx8EQCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/094.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Meeting up with Kath Goodey and Dave Lyons at Joe Brown's in Capel Curig.[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td][/td][/tr]
[tr][td](https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tiTlRjwn7_M/WZhLtN575jI/AAAAAAAABPA/Zsa7AQMbU9MUM7FzVdi0S3YBURt-EPD7wCPcBGAYYCw/s640/096.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-tiTlRjwn7_M/WZhLtN575jI/AAAAAAAABPA/Zsa7AQMbU9MUM7FzVdi0S3YBURt-EPD7wCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/096.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Meeting up with Fluff from our student days at I M Marsh over 30 years ago![/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td][/td][/tr]
[tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iLeeUlpt35Q/WZhNb3Uk57I/AAAAAAAABP0/OQ5esq5bpZILbmpLOoLaABPBM540nUVgQCPcBGAYYCw/s640/099.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iLeeUlpt35Q/WZhNb3Uk57I/AAAAAAAABP0/OQ5esq5bpZILbmpLOoLaABPBM540nUVgQCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/099.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Summit of Tryfan, there were people all over Adam and Eve (hence the reason they're missing from the photo, just left of Elaine).[/td][/tr]
[/table][tr][td][/td][/tr]
[tr] [td][tr][td](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WtNwzLdVRxc/WZhLyCfGYRI/AAAAAAAABPA/Hr9jNwQvuREoyI2Npj9nOd8ggE_pmXx6QCPcBGAYYCw/s640/101.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WtNwzLdVRxc/WZhLyCfGYRI/AAAAAAAABPA/Hr9jNwQvuREoyI2Npj9nOd8ggE_pmXx6QCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/101.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]The classic photo of The Cantilever on Glyder Fach.[/td][/tr]
[/table][/td] [/tr]
[tr] [td][tr][td](https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EHjyA3RJ4CE/WZhNlNjecuI/AAAAAAAABP0/DdLpQJo5yf0eyvlBLwiQyWSYfTWKb6lHwCPcBGAYYCw/s640/20664100_10209390728357825_5258682664326770980_n.jpg) (https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-EHjyA3RJ4CE/WZhNlNjecuI/AAAAAAAABP0/DdLpQJo5yf0eyvlBLwiQyWSYfTWKb6lHwCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/20664100_10209390728357825_5258682664326770980_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Meeting up for a meal with Sue and Colin Goodey in Penmaenmawr.[/td][/tr]
[/table][/td][/tr][tr][td][/td][/tr][tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VFYh3gvD95Y/WZhNWCSA4cI/AAAAAAAABP0/VdvP9A7QhyQx3kIWBdCcfKR4C0gqKzDBQCPcBGAYYCw/s640/108.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-VFYh3gvD95Y/WZhNWCSA4cI/AAAAAAAABP0/VdvP9A7QhyQx3kIWBdCcfKR4C0gqKzDBQCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/108.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Meeting up with some old faces from the Liverpool/Deeside scene at The Boardroom. L to R: Roger Bennion, Andy Boorman, her, legend Phil Davidson, me, Paul Bolger, unknown, Al Stewart.[/td][/tr]
[/table]
[tr] [td][tr][td](https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-n3vtWqG7tNI/WZhNneoUzKI/AAAAAAAABP0/wjK7zPaeQeoY5E4OWTJrSP9WZ5lLywc2wCPcBGAYYCw/s640/20799319_10209394621055140_9132372070134963845_n.jpg) (https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-n3vtWqG7tNI/WZhNneoUzKI/AAAAAAAABP0/wjK7zPaeQeoY5E4OWTJrSP9WZ5lLywc2wCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/20799319_10209394621055140_9132372070134963845_n.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Re-living the good old times. Me and Phil Davidson. When was the last time we climbed together?[/td][/tr]
[/table][/td] [/tr]
[tr][td](https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-56_kTHHn_Ok/WZhNwj0ujII/AAAAAAAABP0/j8B84KZtTBk3pYZ_Odm55y00UnGeyrr_gCPcBGAYYCw/s640/20626244_10209371277751572_5818123543932520907_o.jpg) (https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-56_kTHHn_Ok/WZhNwj0ujII/AAAAAAAABP0/j8B84KZtTBk3pYZ_Odm55y00UnGeyrr_gCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/20626244_10209371277751572_5818123543932520907_o.jpg)[/td][/tr][tr][td]Excellent motivation for next summer's visit.[/td][/tr]
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Source: Mike Owen's blog (http://mikeowenfrance.blogspot.com/)