UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: tomtom on June 21, 2020, 07:53:30 pm
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Mon: Rest day, Went to Rubicon with the lad for a wander - he seemed quite happy to play Lego on the rocks, so might head there this coming Monday with pads and see how he tolerates his dad bouldering...
Tues: Board day. Good session - fairly good performance. Achy left tricep from Sundays 1 arm hang PB’s... (same happened on a Tuesday two weeks ago...). Pleased - did some tough but not the toughest problems.
Weds: 1 arm day. Left tricep still hurting/aching. Got 1/4 way through a 1 arm set and gave up - no point in injuring myself. Went out in the evening to Wilton 4 to have another go on Nemesis - better - came close to catching the final hold. Real progress despite crappy conditions and feeling knackered. Good good
Thurs: Ached. Really ached. Decided to have an unscheduled rest day.
Friday: Tentative 1 arm day - see if that left tricep was behaving. It was - but was 6kg off the numbers from the Sunday before. But managed a full 10 sets down to -6kg.
Sat: Hoped to get up early and get out climbing before things warmed up too much. But typically the lad woke up 4-5 times in the night and we all had a bad night. I managed to get out about 9 and went back to Wilton 4. It was pretty smeggy TBH, not much wind and still lots of damp on the ground from rain the night before. Fan helped. Badly cricked my neck warming up - omens were not looking good.
Much to my surprise on my first proper go on Nemesis I caught the final hold - but couldn’t hold the swing/twist and dropped it. This happened a couple more times - and I figured I’d have to hop my LH over from a sidepull/undercut to the top edge as soon as I caught the final hold with my right. A kind of modern climbing wall problem move. Didn’t work first time - and then much to my surprise I got my timing right caught it and reeled it in on the next go (attempt 5?) and pulled over the top. Chuffed. Second 7C of the year!
Nemesis F7C. Wilton 4(https://i.imgur.com/UA4lkWH_d.jpg?maxwidth=640&shape=thumb&fidelity=medium)
True to form - camera battery had died (pic is from one of the previous attempts) and then i had to scramble up a damp grassy/heathery bank without a top on - and walk around the top of the quarry past some walkers and a couple of passing cars looking like a topless scrawny pasty white weirdo (to be fair - probably not that unusual a site in Bolton) jogging along before dropping down into the shelter of the quarry.
Really good - enjoyed this more than Starship - as I felt I’d over worked that - whereas Nemesis was a steady linear improvement over 4-6 sessions. Great that feeling of just catching the top when you’re not really expecting to!
Persian takeaway and movie as a treat that eve :)
Sun: Couldn’t move my neck (an ibuprofen night...) though its easing off now. REST.
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Effort timtam
M - 3x10 easy problems. Made up a couple of new games but think I pushed finger too far.
T - Plantation, not catchin the breeze as I'd hoped. Managed about an hour and a half before succumbing to sun and midges.
W - stretch.
Finger stiff and had shooting pain when trying to fold it onto lowest string of guitar.
Th -pull day:
offset scap shrugs
static scap holds
offset pullups
band IYT glides
rev YT
bicep curl
TRX low row
HI Core
F
push day, short of time
2 sets each of
dips,
TRX Y, T,
elevated pike press
frog/crane stands
HI core
S stretch
S Burbage Bridge. Short Arete block. Catching Breeze but felt like a creche with kids running around. Wondered why nobody was at Burbage West then found out, shelter = smeg and midges. Obvious really. Back to the other block of BB, was nice and quiet until a kid/youth landed about 2m away having jumped offf the top. Fucking circus. Gave up
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Good form there, TT. Nice one.
S - family walk round Fewston. Had dinner then went to Kilnsey with Ben for the evening. The hordes had largely departed. Aim was to get a good sequence for the start of Comedy. Dogged up to warm up. Took a kneepad up as had seen some guys using a kneebar in the rest. First time using one and it makes the middle height rest better. Not quite hands off, though I could take hands off momentarily, but you don't have to hang on very much. Didn't really succeed in getting the starting sequence any tidier.
Belayed Ben on Subculture and came back. Feeling a bit hungry and like I should have eaten more earlier. Did the start to the second bolt nicely then made a fuck up of the hard couple of moves to get to the third. Feet coming off and scrabbling around. Went up to the rest and shook out for about a minute. Juuuuuust caught the hold that you get with the RH coming out of the rest, feet came off. Power shart going up to the cigar, and then just about make it onto the slab. Barely managed the moves up to the chain and then took two attempts to pull the rope up and drop it into the krab. Ben said he'd thought I was off from the 2nd bolt to the top.
Have dogged up the route a few times over the years and have even had a couple of goes which constituted redpoint attempts but never really committed to trying it properly. Great to get up it so unexpectedly and by the skin of the teeth and to get it over with. Might try Dominatrix next.
S - Family walk and ab ripper.
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11.6-8 Average 161.9 (down 0.7lbs)
M. Slept fitfully. Up late. Short (for me) weighted max hangs sess on ergo edge.
Rocked up at Griffs. Had an assignation with TT but he stood me up. Professional dog wanker El Mocho there to keep me company joined later by Billy Ridal. Drier than Friday but holds didnt feel as grippy. Tried hard on Ovine Basically I lack the deep lock strength to do it. Ben and Billy make it look easy. Frustrating
Evening. Got second wind and had a productive density hangs session. Mades gainz.
T.
W. Tor with Ben. Surprisingly quiet. Went on Rattle and Hump. After several goes decided that going out left was a blind alley and tried the more conventional approach. Ben declared that the problem was impossible for him. Then did it. Felt like I was making progress till thin skin and sun intervened.. Had a chat with an old boy strolling past who had been on first ascents of a couple of the aid routes
Evening. Weighted max hangs. Ergo Edge. Closing in on January’s outlier PB for half crimp and probably stronger than ever on drags even though not been focussed on it
T.
F. Various stress
S. Morning. FB warm up. Weighted hangs up to +15kg / 10secs on ergo edge. Tor again. Surprisingly dry and quiet. Had a talk with a tattooed youth who parked on the bend. He had a bunch of excuses Which didn’t ring true as Im sure had the very same talk with him last year. Fingers felt stronger and made progress on Rattle and Hump leaving the heel toe in repeatedly touching the block which has the crimp mainly with right foot off. Think I need to have my right foot on somewhere to gain that extra couple of inches. More cars than I’d ever seen in vicinity of Horseshoe. Madness
S. AM Weighted deadhangs again this time up to 20kg x 10sec and 25kg x 8ish secs half crimped. Out with Ben and Sonia. Tor rammed so took dogs for a walk down to Rubicon. Drove past Griffs but a team there. Drove to Crag X but 5 cars parked up - most I’ve ever seen. Back to Griffs which was now free. Had an hour to ourselves before Sam Whitt and crew arrived inc UKB leg Dense Loner and dumped their mats down. Don’t think they’d got the SD memo. If Sam wasn’t so fucking cheerful and positive all the time I’d have got annoyed. Fingers felt stronger and made some incremental progress on Ovine. Sam raved about various Father’s Day activities. It then dawned on Ben that it was Fathers Day. Dense also made an impression on Ben: “ This is shit”, “They should be hanged” etc
Eve. Density hangs, appropriately. More gainz
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Shark - done Bovine? Or Griffs into Bovine? Easier than Ovine...
Missed you on Monday - got to Griffs about after a potter at Rubicon with the lad - but he wasn’t in the mood to hang around...
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Barely managed the moves up to the chain and then took two attempts to pull the rope up and drop it into the krab. Ben said he'd thought I was off from the 2nd bolt to the top.
Good effort with Comedy! Watching you on it last weekend you were looking pretty solid so not surprised to hear it didn't take you long to get it done.
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Shark - done Bovine? Or Griffs into Bovine? Easier than Ovine...
No. Had a go on it in the past and know it’s meant to be easier. Bovine was wet when we first went this year so got stuck into Ovine instead.
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Poor week again this week as busy with work and managed to tweak something else :slap:.
Monday: Rest.
Tuesday: Fingerboard and misc. exercises. 5 x 20 sec assisted one-arm hangs @ 80% bodyweight on each arm, 20mm edge. Pinky mono lifts.
Wednesday: Rest.
Thursday: Fingerboard and misc. exercises. 5 x 20 sec assisted one-arm hangs @ 80% bodyweight on each arm, 20mm edge. Pinky mono lifts. Felt a strain in my left bicep during on of the one-arm hangs.
Friday: Attempted to squeeze a garden board session in after finishing work. Did 10 warm-up problems and then the rain started - sacked it off.
Sat: Rest. Left bicep was complaining. Iced it a couple of times.
Sun: Left upper arm noticeably swollen. Iced it a few times throughout the day. Went for a short walk with the family.
Picking up a lot of niggles and tweaks at the moment. Think I need to go to bed earlier as I had a few late nights this week. Dropped the edge size for the fingerboarding this week (from 25mm to 20mm) which was ok. Will see how the left arm does, but this week might be an enforced rest week.
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M - Really good morning at Almscliffe ticking lots of classics on the Low boulders. Gave in after a couple of hours as it got hot and there’s not a great amount of shade up there.
T - Run in the morning.
Quick nip to Woodhouse in the afternoon, but mostly damp, so potter on a few easy things that are a bit higher up and out of the trees. Not sure it was worth it, although weather nice and it’s always a place that I like, knowing that o can through a ball to the centre of Halifax and yet it’s very serene.
W - Up to Ilkley. Get there early to avoid the crowds, unfortunately very misty when get there. Do some stuff in Lost Boots area which was fun and more successful than last visit there. Wander up to Ron’s Traverse but find it really dirty so wander down to the Calf for a bit.
Finish off with a lovely 10k out around the moor.
T - Raining, so treadmill run.
F - Back up to Almscliffe. Wandered about a bit and then did some stuff on the Virgin. Steve might have done a new problem and took a very entertaining fall. My highlight was getting a foot jam so solidly that I couldn’t actually get it out again which was disconcerting as my arms got more and more tired. Rained pretty much the whole time we were there.
Steady 10k in the afternoon.
S - Early morning up at Almscliffe. First time out with more than a couple of friends, six in total. Good conditions early on and good progress on things and up a couple of things but mostly just fun to see people again and have a laugh. By 10 getting very busy so bale. A good day.
S - Nothing.
Another good week. Not climbing hard things but having lots of fun. Weight still going in right direction.
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Goals:
i) End lockdown fitter ii) Maintain finger strength iii) Get out and enjoy some climbing
M.
T.
W. Fingerboard - repeaters x 2 sets.
T.
F.
S.
S. 15 minute HIIT, followed by a 3.8 km run
Piss poor week really, had plans to climb Sunday and was rained off. Onto the next...
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Power shart going up to the cigar
Hope you had some clean pants to wear home? Effort Will, always liked the look of that one.
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Well done Will, sounds like an exciting ascent!
M - went to Anston on the basis there's a good circuit of problems I have wired which I was keen to run round...gopping. Never seen it so wet. Went to Roche Abbey instead, which was at least dry but also in full sun and boiling, and flailed around for a couple of hours doing nothing of note.
T / W - stretching both evenings
T - Kilnsey. Freezing cold in a gale and raining. After feeling close on Launch Control last week was expecting to get it done this time, and felt good warming up. Still couldn't put it together though. Had about 8/9 goes from the start, best two dropping the penultimate move. Really let this get to me unfortunately.
F - nothing
S - Goyden. A friend has been trying Ribtickler so thought I'd join him. I projected this in May/June 2018 and got really close several times before picking up a finger injury on it. Went back once in September 2019 but then it rained endlessly. First time on it in 2020. Felt okay and breezed through the warm ups. Couldn't however make my original beta (using a toe hook) work, so spent ages scratching around trying other things and eventually made a good link using the standard heel hook beta, which I could never do in the past. Bit weird. I find this thing really hard, total anti-style, whereas loads of people seem to piss it. Did the top first go which was nice. Few tries from the start but didn't link through crux. Stopped early and nearly repeated The Roust but dropped top moves a couple of times, then did This Gnu 2nd or 3rd go.
Saturday evening I put up a new set of rings and had a half hour or so session doing Is and Ts; okay on the latter but way off what I used to be able to do on the Is. Stretching after.
S - 9km walk. Core DOMS from rings session.
Really not feeling good about my climbing atm. Twelve weeks of training, and notable gains on the hangboard, seems to have made very little difference outside and I don't feel I'm moving well at all. I'm definitely stronger and my session on Launch Control is easily the best I've ever done on it, plus I did well enough on Ribtickler given I've not been on it for ages. Not what I wanted though, was really hoping to step it up a bit.
I really hate this time of year for bouldering, it's always too hot or humid and I'm constantly exhausted due to hayfever and the meds I have to take for it. Really frustrating. Cannot understand how other people just seem to be able to carry on functioning.
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Griffs into Bovine? Easier than Ovine...
yet you still took 7B+ for it :-\ :P
Simon, you may be doing this already but I found it easier to pull on, RH to lower of the slopey crimps, heel up, RH to the pinch before LH onto the higher sloper. You've still got to lockout a bit but you're half way there at least.
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Simon, you may be doing this already but I found it easier to pull on, RH to lower of the slopey crimps, heel up, RH to the pinch before LH onto the higher sloper. You've still got to lockout a bit but you're half way there at least.
Tried that way and pinch seems like a red herring. Sam recommended that way yesterday and had one go but can’t get enough purchase on pinch to stay on. It’s really awkward to use and moving off it seems harder than going from lower crimp.
My current method is pull on RH to slopey crimp LF cross to foot beak Rheel on then dramatic flag with Left leg LH to crimp next to RH rock up and get intermediate sloper above pinch with thumb in flake with RH then bump it again to good crimp
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Power Club
Mon - board, PE on problems 1 and 2 (extended versions) with 5" pause on every move. Brilliant stuff. Bar work. Glutes. Core.
Tue - TB DL 80 kg x5 + 1' farmer's x5. Cool.
Wed - board, one foot +2 kg on problem 1. Very strong. Then circuit, 1-28. Fuck yeah, all time personal best. Weights.
Thu - boxing bag.
Fri - board climbing at friend's. Fingery.
Sat - board, PE 1 x2. Very tired. Clean and press 30" finisher. Rings 30" finisher.
Sun - TBDL and farmer's + overhead carry.
I have exteded both test problems adding two moves to match the final six moves of the circuit, to practice them while pumped. Three kilos heavier, longer problems, same routines, progress on the circuit and on the hangs. Whatever I may have been doing, it worked.
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M - Shoulder strength exercises (IYTs on the rings, side planks, handstands, pull-ups). Fingerboard: 40kg load. Hip flexibility (active flexion, active frogging, plié squats).
T - Shoulder strength. Hip flexibility.
W - Shoulder strength. Awful day ‘at’ work: all kinds of somatic symptoms after this.
T - Shoulder strength. Took delivery of the Wotan board. Hopefully this will
F - Weighted pull-ups (sets of 3 reps, 96kg load). Hip flexibility. Very weird day of work attempting to engage 40 people represented only by their initials on a 12” screen.
S - Fingerboard: one arm, 25kg load.
S - Shoulder strength.
M - Had booked a hire car to see my Mum in Somerset for the first time in 5 months (for a brisk walk along the prom. and a healthily distant picnic) followed by some return-to-my-root puntering in the Avon gorge that evening. Bloody hire car company and agent miscommunicated and I was left with no car. Fingerboard: one arm, 30kg load. Shoulder strength.
T - Shoulder strength. Another crap day at work
W - Fingerboard: Two second hangs on the 20mm edge. Finger tolerated this.
T - Shoulder strength
F - Fingerboard: Two-three second hangs. Shoulder strength. Hip flexibility.
S - Weighted pull-ups (sets of 3 reps, 96kg load).
S - Shoulder strength. .
M - Bonus! Fingerboard: hangs to 7 seconds. Finger didn’t explode, which I’m counting as a YYFYl
Plus a brisk walk/slow shuffle for 7-10km every day.
Crap weeks for non-climbing things, getting more than a bit ground down by all this. Not getting away didn’t help. I have taken a little time off work to decompress. Hopefully will finally get out later this week: anticipate being terrified 10cm above a bomber rock 6 and pumped after three moves.
Achieved goal with the weighted pull-ups so will reduce the frequency of these and continue easing into finger boarding. No major aches or pains with either, tho’ still being cautious with the left hand. The Wotan board is a magnificent thing of recycled mahogany, a simple three rungs but properly wide, and a joy to use.
Plans: buy a car, go climbing, meet some friends at an appropriate distance.
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Professional dog wanker El Mocho
He's stronger than you, but no need to be rude.
;)
P.s. once you've read that, you cannot unread that. Cringeworthy.
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I really hate this time of year for bouldering, it's always too hot or humid and I'm constantly exhausted due to hayfever and the meds I have to take for it. Really frustrating. Cannot understand how other people just seem to be able to carry on functioning.
I've always wondered this. Even if I didn't sport climb during the summer, I wouldn't even contemplate bouldering in the heat. Good effort sticking with it.
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T - Shoulder strength. Took delivery of the Wotan board. Hopefully this will
The suspense.
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Another non training week for me, still on poor sleep schedule so taking it as it comes. Interesting to see others feeing strong but at the wrong time for bouldering.
M - Still a little fucked from glorious return to sport climbing. Think this is day 4 post? Few recruitment/recovery hangs. Big holds. No training.
T - Portland. Had been planning more sport but couldn’t find partner at late notice so went bouldering. Wanted to get back on old problems to reassess where I am. Tried Cavity Search (7A+ apparently), bit of a nemesis problem for me. I’ve tried it on and off for the last three years and never come close to the moves, despite doing higher graded stuff much faster, and despite it being ostensibly my style. Started out feeling miles away, and then all of a sudden just clicked and unlocked beta. Didn’t do it but came pretty close despite seriously humid day. Very encouraging. Will get back on it as soon as regrown skin removed by the mono. One of these things where the key seems to be trying really hard. What I can’t tell is whether I just wasn’t trying hard before, or if I was too weak! Unfortunately I’d imagine it’s the former.
After that tried workshy, which is either a two move 7B+ (at least) or the worlds hardest 7A depending on if you use the supporting block. Both seem impossible to me but that doesn’t bother me as I’m convinced it’s the biggest sandbag on Portland.
Quick exhausted play on sub youth (vert 7A+) on way out. Tried different beta I’ve seen recently on Instagram. Some hope this might go in near future having given up on it last November.
W - Yoga, floor core, rest.
T - Rest. Left bicep painful I think from cavity search start undercut.
F - Pre nights. Nothing. Not fully recovered from bouldering. Not conditioned for long sessions.
S - Night off due to being under capacity at work but only did yoga and some vague warm up/recovery hangs.
S - One more night shift, little bit of core, front lever reps.
Might be able to think about some actual recovery sleep soon and then might do some training again! Hopefully get back on Cavity Search this week, would be psyched to get that done. Finally making progress on that feels very satisfying almost as good as actually climbing something.
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Weight 145lbs
M - Nothing. Pissing it down all day.
T - AM: Running 17km 1100m height gain. PM: Fishing...blanked.
W - Climbing at Maltatal. Did a nice bouldery route on the Rotewand. Gets 8a+ in the guide but probably only 7c+. Routes in Maltatal seem to be overgraded by one or two grades compared to other routes I have done in Austria. Tried an 8a that actually felt 8a although the hard climbing was on a slab and I am shit at slabs.
T - AM: Climbing at Kanzianiberg. Tried an 8a which went well until I got completely shutdown and couldn't even do the moves. No ascent on 8a.nu which can be a bad sign at popular areas. Found some info on a Czech website which I translated. Said it must be at least 8b. Can't see how you climb it at 8b either. Tried another 8a. Got through the crux but then had a meltdown and couldn't even hold a jug. I was panting and had extremely sore skin. Car thermometer said 33 degrees after sitting in the sun so probably had something to do with it. PM: Fishing again. After handing over 50 Euros for the boat hire and day ticket we were on the lake for only 20 minutes before being hit by a big storm with lightning and everything. Not ideal in the middle of a lake being tossed around in a flat-bottomed metal boat. Somehow managed to row the boat against the waves and make an rough emergency beaching at a random campsite. Epic!
F - Nice running tour in the Dreilaendereck taking in Austria, Italy and Slovenia. Caught by a storm again on the way down and drenched. 20km 1160m height gain.
S - Nothing. Driving back to Innsbruck.
S - 35km run up to 2200m. Strava said over 3000m elevation gain but I think this is wrong by nearly 1000m.
A nice holiday down in Carinthia despite the unsettled weather. The climbing and rock is really nice in Maltatal. Would have been good to check out more of the bouldering although it was mainly hot and humid. I think I will take a week off climbing now as the last couple of sessions felt a bit like flogging a dead horse. I need to freshen things up again. Will introduce some climbing exercises next week and try and get out at the weekend, hopefully with a bit more snap. I might take a month or two off running and replace it with cycling as I have a knee problem that seems to be getting worse. That is fine though as I have an epic mtb bike packing tour planned so I will need to train for that with some long hours in the saddle.
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Professional dog wanker El Mocho
He's stronger than you, but no need to be rude.
Lucky to have any job at the moment etc. etc.
I'm constantly exhausted due to hayfever and the meds I have to take for it.
This is probably really basic advice but have you tried switching drugs? There’s Loratadine and Cetirizine- either will sort your symptoms out to some degree but one of them will also make you constantly tired- which one that is seems to vary from person to person.
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M - Garage wall session. Coming to grips with using the curtain rail is screwed on now, can use ut with screw on holds, and either full crimp or half crimp. Wondering if i have them too close together now. Finally managing to do full lap and a half of crimp loop, still pumped to blazes. Experimented with ankle weights we had kicking about (Ned's influence) , no obvious difference but they are only 1.1kg.
T - Nothing much, bit of weights. Daily walk with kids
W - More Garage wall session Everything wood felt slippery, wonder if foggy weather affects moisture level in the garage? Daily walk with kids.
T - Bit of core. Daily walk with kids
F - Garage wall session. finally making progress on the red loop, 28 moves on it before pumping out. Felt grippier today.
S - Long walk to local bay with kids. Dismayed at the number of teenagers hanging out in groups of up to 10, no social distancing. Headed out to Clochindare bay again. Did the usual warmups, plus spotted a low bulging boulder I'd not noticed before, maybe some rocks moved in a winter storm. Gave it a brush down, and after a few attempts (mostly dabbing fails) made it up. Typical coastal problem here, 6 moves to get up a chest high boulder, 6B or even C maybe. Sadly camera died before I recorded a dabless ascent. Back around.
Struggled for a few attempts on the old project linkup, traverse felt wrong, and finish impossible. Had a look at old video and a crucial hold has definitely (been) snapped off, odd as I've put full body weight on it for a few years now and it felt solid. Not like it was a particularly cold winter, just hope it's not amateur geologists, there are 3 fresh rock scars on that wall since last year.
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M: 25 pull-ups. Weighted pull-ups up to 80lb X3 *3sets. Offset pull-ups X4 *3sets. Frenchies Max *3sets. Bicep curl 40lb X5 *3sets. Lower body stretching
T: Rotator cuff exercises. Fingerboard down to 18mm BW 10s *3sets. Density Hangs 33mm BW 30s *3sets. Bench press up to 160lb (added to Smith Machine so maybe BW total) X3 *3sets. Shoulder press 40lb X6 *3sets. High intensity core *3sets
W: Wrist curls. 10 scapular pull-ups. 25 pull-ups. Contrast pulls (from Buster Martin's IG) +80lb weighted pull-ups X3 then explosive pull-ups X5 *3sets. Frenchies Max *3sets. Bicep curls 40lb X5 *3sets. Stretching
T: Rotator cuff exercises. Fingerboard down to 18mm -10lb *3sets
S: Morrison - Dark Side. Easy session starting to stress the finger. Did all the warm-ups a few times. Repeated Super Phun Thyme V3 and did a new one for me, Rite of the Gypsy Devil V4, a nice slopey arete. Couldn't touch Slots (sandbag) V4 but it was mega hot. Some pain while climbing but avoided most of it, no pain after
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LPTTROJm4LE
S: Sawtooth Ridge from Mt Bierstadt (14,065ft) to Mt Evans (14,265ft). Amazing technical ridge in Winter conditions, probably about AD alpine grade. Nice to get the crampons and axe out again, glad I felt confident on all the difficulties solo. 11 miles total, 4,300ft ascent
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.....
After that tried workshy, which is either a two move 7B+ (at least) or the worlds hardest 7A depending on if you use the supporting block. Both seem impossible to me but that doesn’t bother me as I’m convinced it’s the biggest sandbag on Portland.
Quick exhausted play on sub youth (vert 7A+) on way out. Tried different beta I’ve seen recently on Instagram. Some hope this might go in near future having given up on it last November.
Could you share the Instagram of sub youth? Turns out that new cuttings is quite doable with my son so may be spending a bit more time there. Terrible choice for summer daytimes but there we go! Do you know anything about Baron Gunpowder, on that front?
Workshy was originally given 7B with the block wasn't it? I'm sure I saw a video of the old sequence once which suggested that, but of course I can't find it now. Love to do it one day just for the sheer impossibility/brick hardness of it. Never done the first move nor the throw to the lip, which given there's only really what, 4 moves, isn't a strong performance!
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Professional dog wanker El Mocho
He's stronger than you, but no need to be rude.
;)
P.s. once you've read that, you cannot unread that. Cringeworthy.
I made the mistake of asking him about the ‘ins and outs’ of professional dog breeding as we are considering getting one of ours served. He went into it all in graphic detail :o
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A stroke of luck then?
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A stroke of luck then?
Is that an attempt at a dog pun? very poor
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A stroke of luck then?
Is that an attempt at a dog pun? very poor
Wanking and dogs...
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.....
After that tried workshy, which is either a two move 7B+ (at least) or the worlds hardest 7A depending on if you use the supporting block. Both seem impossible to me but that doesn’t bother me as I’m convinced it’s the biggest sandbag on Portland.
Quick exhausted play on sub youth (vert 7A+) on way out. Tried different beta I’ve seen recently on Instagram. Some hope this might go in near future having given up on it last November.
Could you share the Instagram of sub youth? Turns out that new cuttings is quite doable with my son so may be spending a bit more time there. Terrible choice for summer daytimes but there we go! Do you know anything about Baron Gunpowder, on that front?
Workshy was originally given 7B with the block wasn't it? I'm sure I saw a video of the old sequence once which suggested that, but of course I can't find it now. Love to do it one day just for the sheer impossibility/brick hardness of it. Never done the first move nor the throw to the lip, which given there's only really what, 4 moves, isn't a strong performance!
Yeah Workshy was graded 7B then reclimbed without the block but the grade left the same. Now people say 7A with, 7B+ without. Although I know people who were happy to take 7B with and someone who says it’s useful to be able to do one arm pull up for the 7A version....
This is the original FA video but you can jump with your feet on the block which is perhaps why people suggest 7A now. https://vimeo.com/84526067
Sub Youth seems easiest like this:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CBa4LJxp0wh/?igshid=vjbnwz6czym9
Or maybe this for the flexible/shorter. Would be too bunched for me I think:
https://www.instagram.com/p/B5i6TdEDMQj/?igshid=s52rq31ma5qr
I do the first bit with a left knee bar before the high right heel, but it’s the right side pull before the top jug instead of the rat crimp that seems key.
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I haven't been on Workshy for ages but somehow my memory isn't allowing me to able to imagine jumping (for the lip?) with feet still on the low block. But maybe I've forgotten how far it is.
Thanks! Will have to give subyouth a go at some point. I had somehow imagined it went straight up rather than using the hands/heel out right, but that's based more on what I assumed the line was rather than having ever really looked for holds.....
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Sorry for ignorance but is the subyouth you're discussing the start to what was once a route bitd? 7b IIRC? Is the route now redundant?
And if so do folk boulder out plyometrically speaking too these days? And if so what font grade?
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Simon, you may be doing this already but I found it easier to pull on, RH to lower of the slopey crimps, heel up, RH to the pinch before LH onto the higher sloper. You've still got to lockout a bit but you're half way there at least.
Tried that way and pinch seems like a red herring. Sam recommended that way yesterday and had one go but can’t get enough purchase on pinch to stay on. It’s really awkward to use and moving off it seems harder than going from lower crimp.
My current method is pull on RH to slopey crimp LF cross to foot beak Rheel on then dramatic flag with Left leg LH to crimp next to RH rock up and get intermediate sloper above pinch with thumb in flake with RH then bump it again to good crimp
With the dramatic flag, are you flagging on to something? I can't remember what the hold was like but it was flagging through on to a hold that made the difference for me.
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Sorry for ignorance but is the subyouth you're discussing the start to what was once a route bitd? 7b IIRC? Is the route now redundant?
And if so do folk boulder out plyometrically speaking too these days? And if so what font grade?
The routes are still there, but I don’t think many people climb them on a rope. The sport grades make no sense at all, sub youth is much harder than 7b+, there is a hard 7B with is apparently 7c and a 7C that was apparently 7c+ on a rope. But they aren’t. I think plyometrically speaking still tends to be done on a rope, although has been bouldered at 7B I think?
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With the dramatic flag, are you flagging on to something? I can't remember what the hold was like but it was flagging through on to a hold that made the difference for me.
Hi sdm
No I don’t flag on to a hold but doesn’t matter as I’m solid getting both crimps now - it’s yarding off them that’s the issue now. Same with Rattle and Hump. At the end of the day these are both basic problems that probably feel easy if you’re strong
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I haven't been on Workshy for ages but somehow my memory isn't allowing me to able to imagine jumping (for the lip?) with feet still on the low block. But maybe I've forgotten how far it is.
It seems further than Shane makes it look here!
https://www.instagram.com/p/B6x45gyDS11/?igshid=1jv4e3v22g5fh
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The routes are still there, but I don’t think many people climb them on a rope. The sport grades make no sense at all, sub youth is much harder than 7b+, there is a hard 7B with is apparently 7c and a 7C that was apparently 7c+ on a rope. But they aren’t. I think plyometrically speaking still tends to be done on a rope, although has been bouldered at 7B I think?
Guide says 7B for plyometrically speaking.
I've never been on it, but the tale I heard second hand was that the top wasn't that much easier than the bottom on Sub Youth. Definitely not a place that uses the same grading scale as say Wallsend or Battleship!
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It seems further than Shane makes it look here!
https://www.instagram.com/p/B6x45gyDS11/?igshid=1jv4e3v22g5fh
I'll have to go have a nosey at some point. I'd have sworn the block I'm thinking of is further back than his feet seem to be. But presumably not!
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The routes are still there, but I don’t think many people climb them on a rope. The sport grades make no sense at all, sub youth is much harder than 7b+, there is a hard 7B with is apparently 7c and a 7C that was apparently 7c+ on a rope. But they aren’t. I think plyometrically speaking still tends to be done on a rope, although has been bouldered at 7B I think?
Guide says 7B for plyometrically speaking.
I've never been on it, but the tale I heard second hand was that the top wasn't that much easier than the bottom on Sub Youth. Definitely not a place that uses the same grading scale as say Wallsend or Battleship!
Cheers, interesting. Pretty sure I did Subyouth in the early 2000's, though the mists of time are fogging things a bit. Would have been up there with my harder boulder problem ticks at the time if 7A+ is correct. Definitely never managed Plyometrically Speaking, but remember the move was ace.
Re sport grades Oxley was pretty tall wasn't he, does height tame these problems much?
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M- rest.
T - basically a bouldering session, but at The Cornice Warmed up on Rue Morgue and got dusty, gripped and horrific rope drag. Had to redpoint it but very good. Hammered the boulder on RnP and got consistently better on it over the session before getting through it last go of the day. Predictably I was completely powered out and had nothing left on the hard move in the groove so came off. Good to get through it though.
W- rest.
T- Max Hangs. Sacked off the cornice due to the deluge. Did 3 sets at 5kg assist before dialling it back to 7.5. Weirdly my right arm felt stronger throughout, its usually the other way around.
F- first set of anderson hangs in a month. :o as a result I took it pretty steady, +2.5kg on the edges and bodyweight on the slopers. Was basically fine on the edges but failed on the last reps of all the sets on the slopers regardless of the weight added. Experimented with some one arm repeaters at the end with 15kg of assist. Would like to think this would be nearer 10kg when not fucked. Went to Masson Lees in the evening to belay girlfriend once the rain stopped and did a few 6s.
S- another evening belaying trip, this time to Horseshoe. Horrifically busy, to the extent that it put me in a bit of a bad mood. Saw someone stripping a route via abseil, with no prussik, grimly locking the dead rope off with one arm while struggling to extricate the draws with the other. I thought he was going to crater in front of me. When he got down I politely asked whether he had a prussik loop. He looked at me like I was a complete cunt and told me he had a jumar in his bag, like this somehow answered the question. I gave up and left it, but how more people dont kill themselves is a mystery to me. From his conversation with his mate, it transpired that another member of their party had untied at the top of the route and dropped the rope. He then decided to unclip from the belay and top out, unprotected, through the choss. He seemingly had no idea about the danger. Unbelievable, and frankly a bit depressing. Once everyone fucked off I actually quite enjoyed a few 6s on the main wall.
S- Two Tier as the cornice was a waterfall. Warmed up by doing Countdown, which I last tried five years ago. Its still nails for the grade! Went up to the Upper Tier which I've been meaning to do for years. Tried The Sea is a Brown Paper Bag which was brilliant but has never seen 7b+. Absolutely nails. Great crag though, and nice to be away from it all. Keen to go back and try a few of the others too.
Pretty good week, bit of training even got done. Ideally will try and keep it up but will probably end up going outside instead. Annoying not to finish off RnP, compounded by it getting soaking wet, but it sounds like its getting there now so will hopefully get back on it next week.
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S- another evening belaying trip, this time to Horseshoe. Horrifically busy, to the extent that it put me in a bit of a bad mood. Saw someone stripping a route via abseil, with no prussik, grimly locking the dead rope off with one arm while struggling to extricate the draws with the other. I thought he was going to crater in front of me. When he got down I politely asked whether he had a prussik loop. He looked at me like I was a complete cunt and told me he had a jumar in his bag, like this somehow answered the question. I gave up and left it, but how more people dont kill themselves is a mystery to me. From his conversation with his mate, it transpired that another member of their party had untied at the top of the route and dropped the rope. He then decided to unclip from the belay and top out, unprotected, through the choss. He seemingly had no idea about the danger. Unbelievable, and frankly a bit depressing. Once everyone fucked off I actually quite enjoyed a few 6s on the main wall.
I become ever more convinced that people are infected with some sort of brain disease that makes them think it is impossible to get hurt while sport climbing. It's the only explanation for the fuckwittedness that is seen at every sport crag.
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The routes are still there, but I don’t think many people climb them on a rope. The sport grades make no sense at all, sub youth is much harder than 7b+, there is a hard 7B with is apparently 7c and a 7C that was apparently 7c+ on a rope. But they aren’t. I think plyometrically speaking still tends to be done on a rope, although has been bouldered at 7B I think?
Guide says 7B for plyometrically speaking.
I've never been on it, but the tale I heard second hand was that the top wasn't that much easier than the bottom on Sub Youth. Definitely not a place that uses the same grading scale as say Wallsend or Battleship!
Cheers, interesting. Pretty sure I did Subyouth in the early 2000's, though the mists of time are fogging things a bit. Would have been up there with my harder boulder problem ticks at the time if 7A+ is correct. Definitely never managed Plyometrically Speaking, but remember the move was ace.
Re sport grades Oxley was pretty tall wasn't he, does height tame these problems much?
No I don’t think so. I think some of them just had a grade thrown at them with no thought honestly. I think Fibonacci Sequence hadn’t even climbed as a sport route when it got graded 7c+ (might be wrong about that, but vaguely recall reading that somewhere). The start of it is labelled 7C but has never been climbed in its current state despite all the 8As being repeated multiple time’s.