UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: tomtom on March 29, 2020, 12:18:15 pm
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And so the indoor training begins. I have a BM1K and a heath robinson assist set up based on a series of therbands and a harness waist belt as a foot loop. Works very well for reducing the load on the smaller holds to warm into them. Each band is c.3kg assist.
I’ve also been doing the Joe Wicks YouTube morning kids workout with the family. Good fun - and my Fitbit tells me 120-160 bpm during it - so having the desired effect on my CV.
My week:
(https://i.imgur.com/TTg8zwn.jpeg)
And my set up:
(https://i.imgur.com/H6osqRn.jpeg)
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Sorry. Hit reply instead of modify. Was going to say it’s the first time I’ve ever had a training diary.
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:o
TomTom has a harness! And it's a sit harness with leg loops! Based on wet an I expect it was last worn I was expecting a Swami belt.
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:o
TomTom has a harness! And it's a sit harness with leg loops! Based on wet an I expect it was last worn I was expecting a Swami belt.
No leg loops now - it’s just for weights around the waist - or in this configuration as a foot loop. Last worn as a proper harness in 2017 in Boulder I think.
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I bet you mean 2007 or even 1997
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I bet you mean 2007 or even 1997
Hmm. Checks diary. 2016.
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11.3-7 up 0.4lbs
M-S Nothing
No gainz except around midriff.
Dressing change and inspection at Northern General tomorrow morning. Arranged to pick the Kettle’s brain to refine battle plan.
Feeling optimistic.
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Kind of a cool week. For the first time in forever my entry actually looks like everyone else's.
T: core and stretching. Did the core workout that teestub linked to. Felt really hard. I was doing the harder variations of things, but still.
W: walk at lunchtime. Took net and bucket and dipped in a pond with sprog. Found a water boatman, freshwater shrimp, hoglouse, snail, leech etc. Evening: board for hour and a half. Worked on a couple of projects, one of which should go without too much issue and the other one is harder - though I did do the crux of that in isolation for the first time ever.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B-K7uRmDAqI
T: 30 mins fingerboard. I am pathetic. Maybe not fully warmed up but 2 finger pocks were fairly max hangy. Two smallest crimps not far off either. That's with no weight added. Wow - an utter weakling.
F: Morning stretching. Core workout and stretching in evening. Core workout felt steadier this time.
S: Morning run. Running is stupid. Did 8km with a climb of about 150m about a mile or so in. It was nice because I ran across some deer at close quarters, but at about 2/3rds distance on the descent my knee predictably started to complain. Stop started the last bit home to try and prevent it becoming too injured. My wife chastised me for thinking I could run 8km off the sofa. I didn't think that was far? Is this what getting old is?
S: Walk in the morning. 30 mins fingerboard. Experimenting with isolating fingers on the monos and giving them assist with other hand crimping. Ring finger feels ultra weak. Like very very very weak. Good goal would be to strengthen this finger to reduce reliance on front two. I've sort of known for a while that my ring finger is very weak and have theorised that I get so many split tips on my front two because they're digging in extra hard to take up the slack. Middle finger feels ok but not amazing. Better overall than the session earlier in the week.
Evening stretching and core in front of telly. Absent mindedly reached in front of me doing a hamstring stretch and TOUCHED MY TOES. Not done that in years! Actual progress within the week!
Next week. Receive new board holds and put them up. Set new projects. Keep up the core and stretching. More short fingerboard sessions, trying to coax the ring fingers into action and generally beefing up the others. I guess I will try and do this by a mix of half crimping and open-handed-monos on whatever (4-7 second hangs I can manage?). Do not overdo it with the ring fingers - they feel on the brink of ripping off with even the mildest pull. DO NOT RUN. Get bike in working order to try and get a little cardio in when knee recovers.
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2 weeks worth for me
We’d already decided to take the youngest 2 out of school before the lockdown so I’ve had 2 weeks of a different life with all of us at home after oldest came back from uni in York last Friday
Apart from 13 days ago when I went to Burbage and did the FA of what is obviously one of the best highball LGPs on grit I’ve been in the shed pulling hard, lots of gArdening digging sawing carrying lifting and a few kettlebell or Bulgarian bag sessions outside in the sun. Also sorted out cellar so me and youngest did some core/crimpd workouts down there
Bought a netball hoop which has been ace fun, worked on chipping a golf ball into a bucket from 4 yards with a 9 iron ( no I’m not really a golf twat) and devising outdoor circuits with youngest like 20 skips into press ups into netball shot etc ( quite difficult TBH skipping is knackering)
Anyway main power club highlights ( not all main courses)
Trofie with nettle and kale pesto. Yep foraged from garden. Yep I do read The Guardian
Ottolenghi smoked haddock risotto
Grilled aubergine with olive oil tahini dip with Lebanese rice and smoked chickpeas
Home baked pumpkin seed and garlic bread
Bengali coconut Dahl with home made chapatis. Meera Sodhas recipes are the best ever
Courgette grilled with lemon zest olive oil and halloumi
17 year old baked Chelsea buns which took hours but were the best sweet baked thing I’ve ever tasted
Salmon tikka masala. Absolutely gorgeous
Chipotle bean and lentil burgers eaten outside in Spring sunshine
Pad Thai made with PSB and obvs organic tofu. Amazing
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M - Wander around the block
T - Wander around the block again but mixing it up on far side of the road.
W - Wander around a different block
T - As Wednesday
F - 5k at home on treadmill. Fifth wedding anniversary so walk up to get a take away to support our favourite restaurant. Never within 2 metres of anyone but Mrs B. Thee Er y put the good on a table outside, step back and then you step forward to pick it up.
S - 10k on treadmill plus a bit of walking up hill. Playing about with weights and bands to see what I can actually do at home.
S - 10k run on treadmill in the morning followed by 6k walk again on treadmill in afternoon.
Another odd week. Determined to get back on it a bit more to take this heavy perms-injured pensioners body of mine and turn it into that of a crimp waif. Two hopes no doubt and one of them is Bob.
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Goals: Get strong, don't get injured, stay healthy and sane.
M: Rest
T: Fingerboard and mobility/body weight exercises - 5 x 20sec hangs: body weight +20%, 25mm edge
W: Rest
T: Fingerboard and mobility/body weight exercises - 5 x 20sec hangs: body weight +20%, 25mm edge
F: Rest
S: Rest
S: Fingerboard and mobility/body weight exercises - 5 x 20sec hangs: body weight +20%, 25mm edge
Slightly disappointing week in that I had planned to get out on my board in the garden but didn't for various reasons. Skin on my hands is trashed from the extra hand-washing. Wife started coughing on Tuesday so haven't left the house. Hopefully get some board sessions in this week.
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Some great sounding meals there Dolly.
This one especially. I've been making a lot of baba ganoush recently - so much better than humous.
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Weight: Feeling heavier
M: Rest
T: Shoulder stability + core. Repeaters (6 secs on 4 secs off 1 minute x 6). 200 pull ups. 100 on bar (50 + 4kg, 50 bw only), 100 on edges (12mm to 30mm, 50 + 4kg, 50 bw only). 10 x 2 sling assisted one armers each arm.
W: 12.45km run + 500m. Foam rolling and shoulder mobility.
T: 50 pull ups. Finger boarding. Front 3 half crimp x 3 (10 secs, 3 + 4kg, 3 bw only 12mm and 15mm edge). Back 3 x 6 (12mm edge and 15mm edge bw only). 10.62km + 634m.
F: 14km run + 572m.
S: Shoulder recruitment + core. 100 pull ups (assisted one armers, travelling, typewriters, frenchies). Repeaters (6 sec on 4 sec off 1 min x 6. 3 min rest). 50 press ups (20 normal, 10 wide, 10 narrow and 10 with knee tucks). 12km run + 613m.
S: Shoulder recruitment + core. Finger boarding (front 3 crimp x 12 with and without 4kg on 12mm and 15mm, back 3 x 6 on 12mm and 15mm + repeaters). 200 pull ups. (100 on bar - 50 + 4kg, 50 bw only, 100 on edges (12mm to 30mm) - 50 + 4kg, 50 bw only). 8.59km run + 511m - best I have felt running for a while.
A decent training week given the limitations. I have never done repeaters much before as they feel horrendous but I will stick with it and increase the sets, reduce the rest time and add weight etc and hopefully get good gains. I am determined to at least maintain my running fitness despite running being banned. The health minister has even said that running alone poses close to zero risk for transmission of the virus but the fat suit who decides the regulations says jogging and running is too dangerous as an activity. Still boozing way too much. Will try and go alcohol free until Thursday this week!
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Jesus John, some good pull up volume there!
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Looking at that carabiner it’s perhaps for the best that you haven’t climbed with a rope for years Tom. ;)
OK, where I am- two years ago (exactly two years ago yesterday in fact) I decked out from 25 metres, spent a month on hospital (three weeks of which I couldn’t move at all for) and it was five months total before I could try climbing again. With muscle wastage, nerve damage, restricted movement and mental scars it was like starting again from scratch with the added complication of not being able to boulder.
I got heavily into my rehab over that winter and managed to repeat a 7a one year after the accident. I then realised that my trad onsighting was still at absolute beginner levels and had a fantastic season addressing that- the most fun period of my climbing ever pretty much.
Like all of us in Britain the very wet autumn brought my fun to a premature end but, although I stopped posting in Power Club at the end of the year I kept on at the rehab and have seen great progress this winter- I’ve been alternating mileage sessions on the autobelays with a weight belt with “bouldering on a rope”/ technique drill ones (very encouraged to learn Pete Whittaker did the same thing on a recent Training Beta podcast), fingerboarding, stomping on the stair-treadmill with a heavy rucksack to the extent that I finally feel as fit as I used to when walking up real hills, lifting weights, working on antagonists, stretching etc. (in some ways my posture is better now than it was before I broke my back!) and for the fourth year running I’ve cut out sugary food Jan-March to gradually reach fighting weight. All set for a year of undiluted fun which I hoped would see me regain the lower extreme trad grades and climb on the crags of my dreams in the American west...
But now we’re all stuck in the house all day for the foreseeable future. :boohoo: My Dad was seriously ill in hospital a few weeks before the lockdown and I’m not afraid to say that the experience with the backdrop of the encroaching pandemic brought on my PTSD and led to a bout of depression for the first time since I was in hospital myself. Feeling alright now though (my folks are safe at home with a neighbour looking after them and I can’t complain about my own lockdown situation) so this is my first week of training for a few. Makes sense to rejoin Power Club for it!
Anyway, goal is to equal all of the pre- accident strength PBs that are possible while on lockdown. I have a BM1000, a pull-up bar, lots of weight (no racks though) an exercise bike and a shared arsenal of therabands/ balls/ rollers etc. I tried setting up a makeshift TRX but things are pretty tight in the flat and places with the arm room and places with a sturdy enough anchor don’t currently coincide :-\. I could also go running but let’s not get giddy.
M- Nothing.
T- Deadlift. 2 reps at 50, 60, 70, 80, 90 & 95kg. I did 100 last time I was at the gym but couldn’t quite do it this time.
W- Walk to Bell Hagg & back.
T- Walk in the morning, fingerboard session evening- 7 on, 3 off repeaters, on all the holds. I don’t use assistance, just kneel on scales to see how much I’m taking off. Still can’t do 7 seconds on anything but the three deepest slots but it’s all pennies in the bank.
F- Rest.
S- Walk to Bell Hagg & back.
S- Pull-ups/ push-ups. Kind of a benchmarking session. It seems the benchmark is 3x5 pull-ups, 3x20 push-ups. :lol:
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M:
T: run. mono no hangs. Was planning on doing a proper fingerboard session but got carried away playing with these. Chisel grip, 10 sec, 8 sets. Up to 7.5 kg. Just trying to laid down some ground work at the moment rather than push it. Felt easy on all but my RH ring finger...
W: run. General body workout
T: run. Fingerboarding. Two hand, half crimp, 10 sec, 20 mm, with +45 kg, 8 sets. Would have liked to have used more weight, but that's all the iron I own. It also hurts my waist hanging that amount off a harness. Tempted to buy some bigger plates and a dipping belt.
F: run
S: run. One arm hangs. half crimp, 5 seconds, 20 mm, 8 sets. A shambolic and sweaty session, had the oven on full blast 2 meters away, so ended up having to take off 2.5 kg for RH and 5 kg LH for the latter half.
S:
I did a session of pull ups and front levels at some point too.
Recently got a puppy, which currently means fuck all sleep and limited chance of floor exercise without being viciously attacked. The dog's a right bastard.
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M - max hangs. Was weak on 5kg assist but completed the set anyway. Presumed I was just a bit run down after sleeping in the van but in hindsight not so sure.
T - Repeaters. 3 sets of plus 10kg on BM2K bottom outside. Some failure, but not bad considering the heating was on. Finished with 3 x 5 +20kg pull ups. Finished with some stretching.
W - bit of core. Did a quick run through on the BD core workout and found it reasonably steady. Might have to make it bit higher octane though as it felt more like yoga. Some more stretching after going out on the bike for half an hour.
T - Max hangs. Better than Monday but still some mild failure. Finished with the full core workout and stretching.
F - nothing.
S - Repeaters. Really enjoyed this session. Did a set of repeaters alternating between the 35 slopers and bottom outside. Completed 3 sets of each at 7 on, 5 off, x 7. Might be worth adding another grip in and trying the Anderson hangs protocol, although not sure how adding weight will go on the slopers. Finished off experimenting with a chair to see if I could engineer some foot on campus style exercises using the fingerboard. Got reasonably pumped, found towards the end of the session the pump was significantly increased by putting my heels on the chair rather than my toes. Obviously this weights your arms more. Finished with some stretching; so much better.
S - attempted to do max hangs. Probably not surprising this was shit considering fingerboard workload, increased alcohol intake and second day on. It was incredibly shit though. Think one good session where I felt good with 5kg assist has conned me a bit and really the max is closer to 7.5kg assist.
Being furloughed from the 1st so will have more time but will need to work out a system so I don't get chronically bored or just fatigued from over-fingerboarding. I have done a months worth of one arm max hangs now so might switch back to two arm using a battery in the back of the big slot. This is a smaller edge than my last set used and isn't incut so should hopefully produce some better gains. Alternatively I stick with the 1arm hangs for a while and just increase the assist; haven't decided yet. Will try some anderson style repeaters too. Think the crux for me will be trying not to drink so much (every night this week I think) and having enforced rest days; at least one, maybe two a week.
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Power Club
Mon - board climbing again, I seem to like it. 5 laps on test problem 1. One normal lap, two one footed laps + 8 kg, two one footed laps. Absolutely beasted it. 30" rings finisher. DL, snatch, high pull, bentover row, 1' overhead carry complex x5.
Tue - recovery session, light boxing bag.
Wed - garage, back3/front3 hangs with 25 and 30 kg x9. Long, boring, tweaky, long setup, maybe better to sack this session. Weights.
Thu - garage 14 mm edge: normal 10", back3 5", front3 5" back to back x10. DL, clean and press in between hangs. Nice. Weights.
Fri - recovery session, light boxing bag.
Sat - tests on 1 cm edge one armed, improved! Snatch, press, snatch pulls, gluets, squat, farmer's finisher 45/15 x10 60 kg.
Sun - board climbing, 2 normal laps on problem 1 + 8 kg. The tried the corcuit after a few years, got to 19. Not bad at all. Push ups, Tb Dl 30" finisher.
Third week of lockdown completed. No rest days whatsoever.
Running out of weight complexes I was forced to climb again. It's very fun. I could dedicate some time to it.
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Looking at that carabiner it’s perhaps for the best that you haven’t climbed with a rope for years Tom. ;)
OK, where I am- two years ago (exactly two years ago yesterday in fact) I decked out from 25 metres, spent a month on hospital (three weeks of which I couldn’t move at all for) and it was five months total before I could try climbing again. With muscle wastage, nerve damage, restricted movement and mental scars it was like starting again from scratch with the added complication of not being able to boulder.
I got heavily into my rehab over that winter and managed to repeat a 7a one year after the accident. I then realised that my trad onsighting was still at absolute beginner levels and had a fantastic season addressing that- the most fun period of my climbing ever pretty much.
Like all of us in Britain the very wet autumn brought my fun to a premature end but, although I stopped posting in Power Club at the end of the year I kept on at the rehab and have seen great progress this winter- I’ve been alternating mileage sessions on the autobelays with a weight belt with “bouldering on a rope”/ technique drill ones (very encouraged to learn Pete Whittaker did the same thing on a recent Training Beta podcast), fingerboarding, stomping on the stair-treadmill with a heavy rucksack to the extent that I finally feel as fit as I used to when walking up real hills, lifting weights, working on antagonists, stretching etc. (in some ways my posture is better now than it was before I broke my back!) and for the fourth year running I’ve cut out sugary food Jan-March to gradually reach fighting weight. All set for a year of undiluted fun which I hoped would see me regain the lower extreme trad grades and climb on the crags of my dreams in the American west...
But now we’re all stuck in the house all day for the foreseeable future. :boohoo: My Dad was seriously ill in hospital a few weeks before the lockdown and I’m not afraid to say that the experience with the backdrop of the encroaching pandemic brought on my PTSD and led to a bout of depression for the first time since I was in hospital myself. Feeling alright now though (my folks are safe at home with a neighbour looking after them and I can’t complain about my own lockdown situation) so this is my first week of training for a few. Makes sense to rejoin Power Club for it!
Anyway, goal is to equal all of the pre- accident strength PBs that are possible while on lockdown. I have a BM1000, a pull-up bar, lots of weight (no racks though) an exercise bike and a shared arsenal of therabands/ balls/ rollers etc. I tried setting up a makeshift TRX but things are pretty tight in the flat and places with the arm room and places with a sturdy enough anchor don’t currently coincide :-\. I could also go running but let’s not get giddy.
M- Nothing.
T- Deadlift. 2 reps at 50, 60, 70, 80, 90 & 95kg. I did 100 last time I was at the gym but couldn’t quite do it this time.
W- Walk to Bell Hagg & back.
T- Walk in the morning, fingerboard session evening- 7 on, 3 off repeaters, on all the holds. I don’t use assistance, just kneel on scales to see how much I’m taking off. Still can’t do 7 seconds on anything but the three deepest slots but it’s all pennies in the bank.
F- Rest.
S- Walk to Bell Hagg & back.
S- Pull-ups/ push-ups. Kind of a benchmarking session. It seems the benchmark is 3x5 pull-ups, 3x20 push-ups. :lol:
Glad you’re back at it, Cheque.
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Last worn as a proper harness in 2017 in Boulder I think.
A harness in... Boulder.
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I don't know what days I did things so going forward I will write my training down as I do it so I don't forget...
I did three bike rides (2 on my 2M lockdown loop and one of a lap of Ilkley moor) starting to feel stronger on the bike - will continue this while I can on the lockdown loop to get CV fitness back up and keep some timber off
I did 3 or 4 focused core sessions (BD Beta that Will shared somewhere) I'm not on the hardest exercises + find the down dog knee touches really hard
I only did one stretching session - this is to become a daily thing
I did 3 fingerboard sessions. All max hangs (BW 2 arm) 6 x 10s half crimp. Then doing volume on 3 finger drag with a lot of theraband assist. I'm super weak on this so lots of room for improvement.
Lots of pullups, approx equal pushups, scapula shrugs and front lever progressions
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Goals: i) Some form of exercise everyday and ii) End lockdown fitter than I started.
Mon - Kettlebell workout 20 mins.
Tue - Pullups, pressups and levers 40 mins.
Wed - Kettlebell workout 20 mins.
Thu - Max 1 arm hangs. 18 mm edge with 5 kg assistance pulley. 12 min hip flexibility routine (someone posted in isolation training thread, thanks!).
Fri - Nowt :spank:
Sat - 40 minutes of fingerboarding, 20 second deadhangs every 2 mins, various edges and grip combinations: full crimp, half crimp, back three, front three, middle two etc. Some were way south of 20 seconds...
Sun - 20 minute Joe Wicks HIIT follow along vid thingy. My ass hurts now.
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"Something is infinitely better than nothing".
STG: keep mental health stable, do something active every day, don’t get injured
MTG-LTG: who knows?
M - Knee strength (high step-ups, single leg squats). Fingerboard: short set of max. hangs with four fingers strict half crimp. These don’t feel safe even with ~15kg less than when I drag (chisel?) all four fingers.
T - Shoulder strength (one arm planks, handstands, tick-tocks). Pull-ups (n=50 in total)..
W - Shoulder and knee strength.
T - Fingerboard: brief set of max. hangs as before.
F - Weighted pull-ups. Sore (Golfer’s) elbow.
S - Shoulders.
S - Shoulders. Knees. 6km brisk walk on Hampstead Heath. Agreeably quiet, people keeping to themselves, it’s usually heaving on a dry Sunday afternoon. Felt surprisingly tired after this.
Whatever I had/have knocked me out, still feeling quite run-down. Overdid the pulling a little so will wait til I’ve recovered better before resuming pull-ups and just do a few hangs. I guess it’s normal to find a new grip strange (not completely new, I did strict half crimps with my mini-fingerboard pick-ups) but right now it feels like my fingers are about to explode.
Plan: do something active every day. Don’t go mad. Take at least one day rest between each “pull” day until thoroughly over this bug.
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M: quick board session whilst putting the new board up.
T: rest
W: Max hangs x4. Also did some mono pick ups with a no hang device. discovered my back 2 take a total of 24kg (between both hands) whilst my front 2 take a total of 70kg (all done 1 pad half crimp), could probably have added a little more but at this point felt tweaky. Seems quite a discrepancy? Had a short but sweet session on the board.
T: Board session.
F: Rest
S: Max Hangs x6. Good board session.
S: Rings and Weighted Pull ups
Middle LH finger feeling mildy sore in A2 2-3/10 pain to touch maybe. Enough that I'll likely just fingerboard until it improves (like everyone else has to do anyhow! sods law I'd do this just as I finished building a home board). Maybe do some back 2 hangs given how weak I am on them it seems. Has anyone any experience in this? Do people tend to use a pulley and harness when working on back two?
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Some great sounding meals there Dolly.
This one especially. I've been making a lot of baba ganoush recently - so much better than humous.
I love baba ganoush
Do you cook your aubergines on a flame to get them smoky Andy ? That's what the recipes I've looked at suggest. We've got a hob thing so no naked flames to scorch them on unless you can do them in the oven ?
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goals - come out ahead
M -
Lunch - Andersons seesison 4, hangs and pickups
TRX - I,Y, Reverse fly, low row, archer row, face pulls
Core
T - 4x5mins LI Aero
Hip and shoulder mobility
W -
Hip and shoulder mobility
Th Andersons 5 - despite rest felt tired, pretty poor session, especially LH mono pickups, ring and index just opening up out of crimp.
OH squat
weighted pullups
DL
Core
F - hip and shoulder mobility
core
S hip mobility
S Andersons 6. Pretty underwhelming again
TRX
Hip mobility
I'm struggling with the Anderson hangs now, all over the place with them same as max hangs, the only grips that are consistent and improving are M2 hangs and pinky pickups, which are both drags, all half crimp grips are up and down session to session.
And I've realised I didn't benchmark before starting so won't know if they've had any effect anyway.
Also finding it counterintuitive to take two rest days between sessions and trying to turn on strength on schedule, maybe that's why the results are all over the place. So I'm just going to work out when I feel good now.
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good job everyone.
STG. Improve half crimp finger strength. Improve pullup strength. Beat previous test scores done on this in the last year.
LTG. Climb again.
Mon. Rest
Tue. Morning: Hangboard 1-arm hangs. 5 x 10 s half crimp, planned 5 x 10s open, but aborted after half set and took a 2h nap instead.
Evening Physical. Dips 3x6. Assorted core exercises.
Wed. Morning too tired for cardio.
Evening Hangboard 1-arm hangs. 4 x 10 s half crimp, 4 x 10s open hand. Stretching
Thu. Noon. Pullups 2x12, Pushups + assorted core. Stretching
Evening. 40 min stamina training on oversized fingerboard + 2x5 min shaking out from jugs.
Fri. Rest
Sat. Noon. Easy cardio, about 30min.
Evening. Hangboard 1-arm hangs. 6 x 10 s half crimp, 6 x 10s open hand. Medium-wide pinch-block 6x10s. Hangboard full crimp 4x10s
Stretching.
Sun. Noon. Physical Pullups 3x6. Pushups, vups, supermans. a bit of stretching
Evening. Hangboard repeaters. Half crimp 3x6x(7s hang);r=3s, R=3min. Open hand 3x6x(7s hang);r=3s, R=3min
More stretching.
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Recently got a puppy, which currently means fuck all sleep and limited chance of floor exercise without being viciously attacked. The dog's a right bastard.
Welcome to puppy club. Mine's got used to me doing press-ups but still chases the ab-wheel with open jaws...
M: 300 core movements, 100 press-ups
T: 50 Ab-wheel roll-outs
W: Sunken Gardens - Portable Fingerboard. 30 pull-ups (board not good for these). 5 sets repeaters * 6 reps 25mm edge - end of every set difficult. 3 sets BW 10 sec hang 15mm edge. Lower body stretching in between
T: 100 press-ups
Made a meal of trying to put a backboard of ply up over the doorway. Managed to drill six holes with the drill bit going the wrong way and breaking a drill bit :slap: Studs ended up being too deep to be usable...
F: Sunken Gardens - Portable Fingerboard. 80 pull-ups (part at home). 5 sets repeaters * 6 reps 25mm edge. 3 sets BW 10 sec hang 15mm edge.
300 core movements
S: 100 press-ups, 50 Ab-wheel roll-outs
BM 2K arrived so created set up to go over pull-up bar with ply and some other beams - works surprisingly well!
S: 50 pull-ups, BM 2K 6C beastly workout 2 sets on the new fingerboard. Used thumbs to pinch slopers, 14mm instead of middle two, 30mm instead of front two. Really good burn from this. 20 front lever pulls. Lower body stretching
Completed my week aim of three fingerboard sessions and four core, need to pick up the other aspects. Worried about adding weight to my doorway pull-up bar set-up (and weights haven't arrived yet) so will stick to repeaters for now. Fingers are still a long way off their best given my finger injury last May and my five-month lay-off recently - psyched to get them firing again
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Being furloughed from the 1st so will have more time but will need to work out a system so I don't get chronically bored or just fatigued from over-fingerboarding.
Think the crux for me will be trying not to drink so much (every night this week I think) and having enforced rest days; at least one, maybe two a week.
Yeah I'm struggling with routine at home. Not been furloughed yet but see it coming in a month or so, unless the market picks up suddenly... :(
Drinking way more than usual and not training. My sole motivation for climbing is to do it outside. If I never got shut down outside I wouldn't train (logical really).
I think I did Ab ripper once last week and that was it. Need to step. it. up :weakbench:
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T: run. mono no hangs. Was planning on doing a proper fingerboard session but got carried away playing with these. Chisel grip...
What's a chisel on a mono?? Chisel is pinky and index dragging, middle two half crimp surely?
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If anyone is struggling for routine and motivation - I recommend having a partner who is a keyworker and getting a toddler to look after. 😃
My fingerboard hours are in the diary and each one is 60-90 min where I can escape from catching up on work or having to watch Fireman Sam and empty a potty. I am very much looking forward to One armer Tuesday as it’s now known.
In it for the long haul...
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I've just made my plan alternating days of fingerboard / pull-ups one day, press-ups and core the next. I have weekly aims such as number of days doing 100 press-ups etc. This seems to be working but yes, I am drinking more...
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I've just made my plan alternating days of fingerboard / pull-ups one day, press-ups and core the next. I have weekly aims such as number of days doing 100 press-ups etc. This seems to be working but yes, I am drinking more...
I reckon if I put it in my work calendar it will help me focus. All I need to do now is move 5ft from the kitchen table to the pull up bar.
I'll aim for 4 sessions a week.
1x core, press ups and trx
1x fingerboard and pull ups
1x max hang type stuff and yoga/ mobility
1x finger stretches and massage
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T: run. mono no hangs. Was planning on doing a proper fingerboard session but got carried away playing with these. Chisel grip...
What's a chisel on a mono?? Chisel is pinky and index dragging, middle two half crimp surely?
Have a similar question; quite a few seem to be doing these in half crimp, any particular reason? I've been doing these too but fully open, as that's how I'd normally take a pocket. Should you do both?
Recently got a puppy, which currently means fuck all sleep and limited chance of floor exercise without being viciously attacked. The dog's a right bastard.
It gets easier, really quickly in my experience.
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All I need to do now is move 5ft from the kitchen table to the pull up bar.
You can do it, we believe in you
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All I need to do now is move 5ft from the kitchen table to the pull up bar.
You can do it, we believe in you
How many years do you think it would take you Shark? 😢😃
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What's a chisel on a mono?? Chisel is pinky and index dragging, middle two half crimp surely?
What I mean is the pip joint at 90 degrees and the dip joint at 180. When doing it as a full hand grip, I normally have my front three fingers in this position, and pinky dragging. I don't actually know if I'm using the term correctly :)
Have a similar question; quite a few seem to be doing these in half crimp, any particular reason? I've been doing these too but fully open, as that's how I'd normally take a pocket. Should you do both?
No reason other than I was curious about how strong my individual fingers are (partly inspired by https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,30522.msg600842.html). I'm planning on doing some open hand stuff to actually train for monoing too.
Recently got a puppy, which currently means fuck all sleep and limited chance of floor exercise without being viciously attacked. The dog's a right bastard.
It gets easier, really quickly in my experience.
I hope so, it would be nice to be able to relax again.
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Okay gotcha, thanks.
My sole motivation for climbing is to do it outside. If I never got shut down outside I wouldn't train (logical really).
Think of it this way; if you don't do something you will get shut down when you eventually get back outside.
I really struggled with motivation (lack of) early last week and my mood is very up and down, but I'm lucky because I actually really like fingerboarding ;D
M - despair
T - utterly miserable but did a warm up routine on the fingerboard. Half crimp low edge on BM2k 20s +6kg, +11kg & + 16kg. Tried +21kg and got to 18s. Then middle mono pick ups 10s 5kg, 10kg & 15kg.
W - marginally better mood. Had a really good warm up, then did half crimp low edge on BM2k 20s +6kg, +11kg & 3x +16kg. Tried a couple of one arm hangs pinching the (plastic and therefore very slippery) top of the door frame with the other hand and on the low middle slot did 3 hangs each arm, all 8-10s before failure. Next did f3 open 3x 10s +11kg. Last middle mono pick ups 10s 10kg & 3x 15kg.
T - nothing
F - another good warm up including 3x 8r 11kg overhead press. Then did half crimp low edge on BM2k 20s +6kg, +11kg & 3x +16kg. Next same edge and half crimp did 10s +25kg, +30kg & +27kg. Second of those matches my PB and didn't quite feel maximal so pretty good. Lastly did f3 open 2x 10s +11kg, tried a third but failed at 6s.
S - big session, big warm up lots of moving planks, push ups, pull ups, etc. Then tried some undercut pick ups using my portable fingerboard, in half crimp on a 14mm edge did 1x 10s 20kg and 4x 10s 22kg. Super set these with leg raises with ankle weights, 1x 5r +2kg and 4x 5r +4kg. Next did mono pick ups 5x 15kg superset w/ attempted 10s front levers w/ one leg tucked (nails). Then repeaters on the low BM2k edge 4x 7/3 6r +10kg (felt okay, completed all reps), superset with 20 push ups. Finally did 5x 10r 5kg dumbbell side raises superset w/ 20 push ups.
S - longer walk c. 3.6 miles
Have done at least a couple of miles walking every day, more than I would normally.
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Yeah I'm struggling with routine at home. Not been furloughed yet but see it coming in a month or so, unless the market picks up suddenly... :(
Drinking way more than usual and not training. My sole motivation for climbing is to do it outside. If I never got shut down outside I wouldn't train (logical really).
I think I did Ab ripper once last week and that was it. Need to step. it. up :weakbench:
Yeah, I enjoy training but I do it for outdoors rather than for its own sake. Absolutely guarantee I will go outside again when this is done and feel no different on the rock despite all the training!
Got into the habit of doing abripper every week since xmas. Amazing how it still feels nails.
Last day of work for me today. Management talking about how I might be back in a month but the only way I can see that happening is if one of the people they've kept on gets ill tbh.
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What's a chisel on a mono?? Chisel is pinky and index dragging, middle two half crimp surely?
What I mean is the pip joint at 90 degrees and the dip joint at 180. When doing it as a full hand grip, I normally have my front three fingers in this position, and pinky dragging. I don't actually know if I'm using the term correctly :)
Sounds like a half crimp to me. A chisel is what I drop into when failing to hold a half crimp at the end of a set...
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Well done everyone who has been plugging away. I've not much to add and the normal weekly format has fallen by the wayside - without going to work all the days have sort of cascaded into an indistinguishable collage of grey.
A few short runs from the house.
Two kettlebell sessions.
Dug the mess out from under the garage board. And sat under it for an hour not sure of myself.
Boozed too much while gaming online with my mate in the evenings.
Developed a new level of respect for convicts who keep themselves in shape in movies like De Niro in Cape Fear or Sarah Connor in T2.
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Developed a new level of respect for convicts who keep themselves in shape in movies like De Niro in Cape Fear or Sarah Connor in T2.
Last week it got the point where I wondered if MrsTT was going to stab me in the hand with a pen like Sarah Connor does in T2...
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I'd be more worried if she had a syringe full of Drain-O to be honest.
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Yeah, I enjoy training but I do it for outdoors rather than for its own sake. Absolutely guarantee I will go outside again when this is done and feel no different on the rock despite all the training!
I am the same. I only train for outdoors. It is a necessary evil to have a chance at the routes that inspire me outdoors. That is why I dislike the growing prevalence of parkour style boulder indoors as it has very little translation. Strangely I am not finding it hard at all that I can't climb outdoors at the moment. The fact that I will again someday (I am hoping June), is enough!
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Me too John - but I’m going to embrace the opportunity and try and throw myself at the finger boarding/training and see if it bumps me over a couple of strength plateaus.
Otherwise it’d be the Pringles and beer training programme. 😂
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Me too, I’m a rock climber. It’s weird to say it (and probably due to not having had a proper day out where the focus was on my own climbing since October) but I miss being out in the countryside more than I miss the physical activity of climbing at the moment.
But we’re all indoor climbers now and whichever one of the five stages of grief (https://i.kym-cdn.com/photos/images/original/001/287/144/fe9.jpg_large) we’re currently at we have to make the best of it. On the glorious day when we can get out again we’ll all have poor footwork, no endurance, crap skin, no head game whatsoever and probably too-many-pull-up-related injuries but some of us will be stronger than others and with smaller beer bellies. I for one am determined to be in that category!
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I always struggle to do any training because it's too easy to get sidetracked by real climbing, which I always prioritise over going indoors. So all summer I'm out on the grit in the evenings doing trad plodding or whatever, which means I never get round to training. With that out of the window I've thrown myself into this. In reality I'm just doing what everyone on here has been doing for years. Core in front of the telly; fingerboarding; board sessions etc. I'm quite hopeful that I'll end up in better shape by the end of it.
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I always struggle to do any training because it's too easy to get sidetracked by real climbing, which I always prioritise over going indoors. So all summer I'm out on the grit in the evenings doing trad plodding or whatever, which means I never get round to training. With that out of the window I've thrown myself into this. In reality I'm just doing what everyone on here has been doing for years. Core in front of the telly; fingerboarding; board sessions etc. I'm quite hopeful that I'll end up in better shape by the end of it.
+1
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Developed a new level of respect for convicts who keep themselves in shape in movies like De Niro in Cape Fear or Sarah Connor in T2.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Solitary-Fitness-Charles-Bronson/dp/1844543099
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I always struggle to do any training because it's too easy to get sidetracked by real climbing, which I always prioritise over going indoors. So all summer I'm out on the grit in the evenings doing trad plodding or whatever, which means I never get round to training. With that out of the window I've thrown myself into this. In reality I'm just doing what everyone on here has been doing for years. Core in front of the telly; fingerboarding; board sessions etc. I'm quite hopeful that I'll end up in better shape by the end of it.
+1
This seems to be the sentiment of pretty much everyone, from my experience of the Leeds depot I rarely see anyone else climbing on the board so I don't necessarily think everyone is already training like fury (but I do tend to climb at quiet times).
Since having kids (and breaking my ankle in a minor but functionally significant fashion) my normal routine pretty much solely comprises fingerboarding and board climbing. I think I am significantly stronger now than I was 4 years ago and when I have climbed outdoors (rarely) I have climbed a few things I haven't been able to in the past.
I am curious to see how this goes, maybe no 8b in Yorkshire will safe from the downgrading but it is pretty boring.
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Theres probably a sweet spot isnt there. If the lockdown lasts 3 months (ie a standard length block of training) I suspect most will emerge stronger. Beyond this I would suspect a tail off will occur as people get bored and sack it off in favour of netflix and beer. A six month lockdown might result in a bigger strength gap between the keen and the obsessed, whereas a three month lockdown might bring them closer together.
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Nevermind guys, the first five or six years of training on one's own are a bit hard, then you get used to it and after fifteen or twenty years it feels like a piece of cake.
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You're an inspiration nibs. I'm glad you are still quietly smashing it.
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Nevermind guys, the first five or six years of training on one's own are a bit hard, then you get used to it and after fifteen or twenty years it feels like a piece of cake.
Out of curiosity, have you seen improvements outdoors and did they plateau?
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I always struggle to do any training because it's too easy to get sidetracked by real climbing, which I always prioritise over going indoors. So all summer I'm out on the grit in the evenings doing trad plodding or whatever, which means I never get round to training. With that out of the window I've thrown myself into this. In reality I'm just doing what everyone on here has been doing for years. Core in front of the telly; fingerboarding; board sessions etc. I'm quite hopeful that I'll end up in better shape by the end of it.
+1
This seems to be the sentiment of pretty much everyone, from my experience of the Leeds depot I rarely see anyone else climbing on the board so I don't necessarily think everyone is already training like fury (but I do tend to climb at quiet times).
Since having kids (and breaking my ankle in a minor but functionally significant fashion) my normal routine pretty much solely comprises fingerboarding and board climbing. I think I am significantly stronger now than I was 4 years ago and when I have climbed outdoors (rarely) I have climbed a few things I haven't been able to in the past.
I am curious to see how this goes, maybe no 8b in Yorkshire will safe from the downgrading but it is pretty boring.
There was a great scene on the board maybe a year or so ago; quite a few people keen and psyched, lots of heckling, lots of punting. Great fun. Seems to have really tailed off ever since though, usually just me (or you, or Foley) there when I've been on it in the last few months.
I've always prioritised climbing outside (and in the current situation it's hard to regret that!), but I've also always tried to fit training in around outdoor stuff. That's been really hard now I think about it, and it's meant I've never had an extended block of time purely dedicated to training; trying to balance doing both is pretty impossible, especially if you're trying hard/projecting outside.
Very interesting to see how it'll go just purely training, although without a board I'm definitely concerned about keeping certain climbing specific technique and strength and also maintaining power.
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That’s the tough one Bradders. You can train the individual elements of climbing with relatively little kit - but need a board to link them together. Or be much better at structuring work outs than I am!
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If you don't have a board I think you just have to accept that at the end of this period you'll be strong-but-shit for a little while. In my experience you can get away with this most on bouldering, slightly less on redpoint routes or longer bouldering, and least on onsighting routes...
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:ohmy:
You're an inspiration nibs. I'm glad you are still quietly smashing it.
Cheers Murph!
:)
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Nevermind guys, the first five or six years of training on one's own are a bit hard, then you get used to it and after fifteen or twenty years it feels like a piece of cake.
Out of curiosity, have you seen improvements outdoors and did they plateau?
Outdoors?
What does that mean?
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Jokes apart, I haven't climbed outside in the last three years.
Before that, I'd been going outside maybe once or twice per year. Last proper (kind of) year of climbing was probably 2014.
I've always been quite bad at planning, so I'd generally do my climbing (almost) regardless of projects on rock, bar the usual day off before, and even that not always.
With experience I've found very useful for me to play things well during a small trip, rather than programming a training cycle for an objective. Also because I couldn't plan in advance when I could go on a trip and I've had many projects relatively close to home (1,5 hours drive), so I could go every weekend waiting for the right moment (that not always came).
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If you don't have a board I think you just have to accept that at the end of this period you'll be strong-but-shit for a little while. In my experience you can get away with this most on bouldering, slightly less on redpoint routes or longer bouldering, and least on onsighting routes...
A friend who is a mountain guide do lots of skitouring in the spring + hangboarding in the evenings and can usually climb to the third bolt of any route in the world, but never to the fourth bolt, regardless of grade at the end of the season...