UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: shark on July 11, 2010, 10:31:05 pm
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Goal: Oak. 10,000 8a nu points
Weight: 11.2-4
M.
T.Eve. Cornice. Hot and humid. Good goes on K3 but poor conditions.
W.
T.Eve. Cornice. Hot and humid. Good goes on K3 but poor conditions
F.
S.
S. Cornice. Decent conditions. Overcooked the warm-up and felt weak dogging up the route to put the draws in. Felt weak on first 2 redpoints but still got to the rail. On the second go took a rest and led thru to the top. 3rd redpoint was the best and had a very short rest and also led to top.
Feel like I squandered an opportunity to bag K3 today. Was a bit down until encouraged (teased) by last redpoint attempt. Not sure what my strategy should be now. The consistent level of links Im doing now means I should be able to get it with decent conditions. Probably on balance best to keep turning up to try it next week rather than take time out to do other routes and/or training. I think. :shrug:
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Missed last week, naughty, so getting in early doors this week,
8b, 8B
M - nothing
T - nothing
W - Exploring new trad route possibilities on lancs quarried esoterica
T - nothing
F - nothing
S - nothing
S - Early session at the Cornice/Nook, I was leaving as most were arriving. Someone said what I thought was "hiya" to me but subsequent mental analysis led me to think they might have said "hi Nik". I said hi but didn't hang around for a chat, anyway if it was you I apologise if I appeared rude.
Seemingly still not a great amount of climbing done but feeling a bit more positive this week, and it hasn't felt quite so oppressively hot, this makes me happy.
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A bit of catching up to do...
New STG: E3 (Dreadnought) by end of summer
MTG: E5 by 7th June 2011
Week 16: Salathe Wall. The STG (and vLTG). Woo hoo etc.
Week 17: Beer, pizza and ice-cream. Shoulder very sore.
Week 18: Beer, pizza and ice-cream. Shoulder very sore.
Week 19: Beer, pizza and ice-cream. Shoulder easing a bit.
Week 20: Beer, pizza and ice-cream. Shoulder OK.
M: Shoulder stability stuff
T: 6mins F5ish ARCing
W: Shoulder stability stuff
T: PhD viva. Beer etc.
F: 12mins F5ish ARCing
S: 20mins F5ish ARCing
S: 20mins F5ish ARCing
Good to ease back into it after a month off.
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STG - boulder 7B/+, onsight 7a,
MTG - RP 7c+/8a, either just revenge or cider soak, keep progressing with bouldering
LTG - climb 8a and 7C consistently
M = get back from albarracin, food and sleep
T = rest and watch football
W = rest and watch football
Th = session at TCA. felt weird pulling on plastic again, skin still not recovered from Spain. end session early with crippling cramp in my calf from a heel hook
F = rest
Sa = day at tintern quarry. loads of easy stuff in 6s, wasn't really feeling on it
Su = rest
Weight up to 68.0kg so back to training this week so that i can put the experience of Spain to good use
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Feel like I squandered an opportunity to bag K3 today. Was a bit down until encouraged (teased) by last redpoint attempt. Not sure what my strategy should be now.
Personally, I'd take a proper rest - five days minimum, and don't do anything but stretch and eat well. Keep visualising the moves, by the time you get back on it you'll be so full of beans and psyche that it won't stand a chance.
(caveat: I know nothing about redpointing, and less about training. But this works for me).
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M: 50 length swim (crawl), 4m run & core (300 moves)
T: 40l swim (crawl), 4m run & core (300)
W: 40l swim (crawl), 4m run & core (300)
T: 40l swim (crawl), 4m run & core (300)
F: rest
S: bouldering at cratcliffe
S: 4m run, 50 pull-ups, 100 press-ups & core (300)
Still trying to make the break through to font 7a but decided I probably need a bit more volume in the 6's (and generally more climbing) so trying not to get frustrated. Feeling quite light at the moment, fingers and elbow seem to still be improving. Really keen to get back on the beastmaker. Good to be back swimming, hopefully it will help with surf trip in october.
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A week of two halves. Completely knackered with work/travel and recovering from Wakestock resulted in nothing (much) until the weekend.
M-T-W-T: some pressups each day and idle stretching
F: Routes @ Smalldale in the evening after 1.5 hours sleep and an 18 hour day: 2 x 6b rpt, 1 x 6c flash
S: Cornice 1 x 7a (6c+ really) flash; dogged and 2 RP attempts at The Corniceman (7a+ ??)
S: Masson Lees: 6b+, 6c, 6b+ flashes. RP'd 6c+ Cattle Mutilation Expedition after falling onsight.
New STG: Redpoint 7b by end of July. Onsight E3.
MTG’s (End 2010) – Redpoint 7b+ (Sturgeon/Lightweight/Body Machine) & Onsight E5 (Right Wall or White Wall or Positron)
VLTG’s – Redpoint 8b, Boulder 8a, Onsight E6
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MTG’s (End 2010) – Redpoint 7b+ (Sturgeon/Lightweight/Body Machine)
Are those not all 7c?
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STG: Recovery
LTG: 7b
Mon: Rehab and weights set
Tues: Bouldering at Works
Wed: Core
Thur: Bouldering at Works, not a great session
Fri: Bouldering at Works, new red circuit tried hard and took piss, good laugh
Sat: Bouldering at Rubicon - tired. Repeated everything i've done before.
Sun: Rest
A mixed week. On one hand i've upped the difficulty and am now trying pretty hard. Shoulder has complained a little bit and I've a very slight tweak to right index, nothing major. I've felt tired this week, going to force myself to rest completely for two days.
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Goals: F7b+, F7c.. F8a before 2014
M: Morning yoga. Evening weights - Mainly bicep work (need better undercut strength), 4 x 10reps @ 14Kg each arm. 100 Situps, 100 pressups (2 sets of 50), leg raises and french pulls on bar.. Tired.
T: Bouldering @ Stoney - Greasy. Did a 7a I'd not done before but both the 7a+'s I've been trying still eluded me. Did some traversing into undercuts - Exhausted!
W: Come down with summer lurgy.. Fail to climb out of bed.
T: Feel a bit better but still poo.
F: Feeling tired but fine, head out to peak to camp for the weekend.
S: Routes @ Harpur hill with family - Lead a couple of sixes, felt tired, dogged a 7b+ (the power of soul), did all the moves on the dog but too tired to attempt a RP.
S: Exhausted again! Walk down Lathkil Dale, have pint and dinner in pub.
Not too bad considering the mid week manflu, kinda worn out still but on the mend.
This week: try and not get bogged down with planning new kitchen, continue weights, get on project.
:D
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MTG’s (End 2010) – Redpoint 7b+ (Sturgeon/Lightweight/Body Machine)
Are those not all 7c?
I mean't Indecent Exposure rather than Body Machine (always get 'em mixed up), last year I tried Lightweight but finished up the groove of Spizz Energy which I think gets 7b+. Maybe I ought to figure out my goals a bit better :-[
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Weight: 63kg
Aims for 2010: rp 7b+ sport, o/s 6c+ sport, 7A+ boulder.
New STG: Keep to training plan in order to be ready for Kalymnos (13 weeks and counting)
M: Rest day.
T: Bouldering at Ingleton. Very hot and sweaty, resulting in a average session but still manage to repeat my personal best circuit by the skin of my teeth at the very end of the session.
W: Strapped increasing weights to myself for deadhangs to find my max level in preparation for a new strength cycle to start next week. I called it a day having added 35kg and just hanging a first joint edge with a 3 fingered open hand grip for 4 seconds.
T: A very low point... Got absolutely beasted on a first visit to Chapel Head Scar. Didn't manage to get up anything and went home seriously contemplating the point of it all for the first time ever...
F: Rest and thinking time. Rational sense returned to tell me that I would have wasted most of my spare time for the last couple of years if I allowed myself to stop working for it. Different tactics required in one respect though - my wife is feeling properly peeved off with Limestone sport now and I'm always ridiculously shy about prospecting for new climbing partners - that might have to change!! :-[
S: Kendal Wall. First time back on the auto belays since they were re-introduced. Flashed all the routes on all three (only up to 6c+) and lapped them all a couple more times. Finished off with some bouldering which is a little limited at the moment while the rebuilding work is taking place but still has some good problems.
S: Went to see what the Depot is like - suitably impressed! Spent a couple of hours working up one hell of a sweat on problems up to V6 and on the cicuit board up to 7a (what a great facility the circuit board is!).
Hmm, not a vintage week but I guess everybody has moments where they wonder why they bother! Recovered from that dip and can feel the beginnings of getting psyched for a new strength phase, although my deal with myself is that I must keep it in perspective - keep up enough actual climbing, keep working hard on technique and don't get obsessed by being overly strong.
Weight will start to pick up a bit as I've started eating more for this phase of training. I'm pretty certain of losing it again in later phases though so no great worry.
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Goal - VIII, 8a, 8A, E8, in 2010.
At - IX, 7b+, 7B, E5.
Goal for July - Bad Bad Boy (LPT), Foil/Quasar/Stroll On in a day (pass).
m. Indi, 40mins ARC on the traverse.
t. LPT, working BBB, got good beta for the traverse and top groove from Doylo (who may have climbed it once or twice).
w. nowt.
t. LPT, working BBB. Now got the whole route happy and have a good way to do the bottom moves (toe hook). Time for the redpoint.
f. Got soaked to the bone trying to bolt a new route in Gideon.
s. Indi, 4x4: V3(4), V3,V2,V3. Completed all 16. Really humid in wall.
s. nowt.
A good week, progress on the PE and ready to send BBB thanks to good beta from a couple of folk.
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Probably on balance best to keep turning up to try it next week rather than take time out to do other routes and/or training. I think. :shrug:
Brown is on the money here, time out = fresh and fun. There's no more work you can do to make K3 feel easier, just have a break and come back feeling rested on a good conditions day. A couple of easier ticks in the meantime will ease the mind.
LTGs - New high 8 bloc, sport and trad - uncertain of grades but all very hard, and very good. 8c (2010/11)
MTGs - The dirty dozen sport list (2010)
STGs - one off the DD, An extreme rock tick or POC tick (This month) Route fitness (this week)
Mon - nowtup. Realised I'd pulled an intercostal yesterday.
Tues - Gordale. Supercool session. ****
Wed - nowtup.
Thurs - nowtup.
Fri - Kilnsey. Some easy onsights to rest my intercostal, pulled my left shoulder.
Sat - Beer and b-b-q.
Sun - Cornice. Intercostal felt better, shoulder very sore. Devonshire arms session, realised the crux is a hard left shouldery move. Why are so many Peak 8a+s really 8b? (2 out of the 4 I've tried so far!)
No training this week, or proper ticks, yet progress nonetheless. Supercool is probably the best sport route I've ever been on - a worthy goal, and guaranteed to get me fitter.
Holiday this week so no climbing. I might do some stretching and recover my injuries.
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Personally, I'd take a proper rest - five days minimum, and don't do anything but stretch and eat well. Keep visualising the moves, by the time you get back on it you'll be so full of beans and psyche that it won't stand a chance.
Cheers. Probably good advice but I'm not sure that I could cope. Eat well would translate to eating lots and with no exercise result in getting fat - fact. It may have been one off day so I'm going to try it Tues eve, Thurs eve and Sunday. After that I'm going to have a break and climb elsewhere for a while. If anyone sees me at the Cornice after Sunday and before August they can shoot me.
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Brown is on the money here, time out = fresh and fun. There's no more work you can do to make K3 feel easier, just have a break and come back feeling rested on a good conditions day. A couple of easier ticks in the meantime will ease the mind.
Now that makes 3 of you. Zippy said something similar. I'll do it. Just one more week of attempts.....to prove you all wrong ;)
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STG Goals(2010):
Trad: Onsight several routes E1-E3.
Boulder: Work some problems at Fairhead 7a+-7c+. Split arete 6b+/E4.
sport: Onsight at least f7a in Verdon or Buoux.
LTG's:
Trad: E5 o\s
Sport: o/s 7b. rp 7c.
Boulder: At least 7C .
Mon Climbing wall session. Stamina circuits 1.5 hrs. 5* 10 pull ups
Tue Climbing wall session. Bouldering 1.5 hrs.
Wed Rest.
Thur Climbing wall session. Bouldering 1.5 hrs.
Fri Run 45 min
Sat Climbing wall session. Bouldering 1.5 hrs.
Sun Climbing wall session. Fingery traverses and problems 2 hrs.
Training going ok. Feeling in good shape, fairly strong and fit but just not getting to the crag at the minute with weather and different things. The summers cracking on but trying to just train hard and be patient and hopefully will still get some more of my goals ticked before the end of the summer. Need to try and squeeze a few fingerboard sessions in as well up my running to runs > 1hr to be fit for France. The challenge though will be doing this without sacrificing quality sessions at the wall and crag. Any tips?
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good week.
mon - weights. full session. POWER.
tue - weights. back, super sets; biceps, super sets. TIRED.
wed - bestmaker. tests and max hangs, mostly one armed.
thu - rest.
fri - weights. full session.
sat - rest.
sun - bouldering bouldering bouldering. good vibes but very soft skin!!!!!
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Goals: 8a and V8
Mon: 3 mile run
Tues: 5 mile run
Wed: Nothing
Thurs: Climb at Foster's, only get a few routes in, very hot, 4 mile run
Fri: 2 mile run and Rock Rings
Sat: 3 mile run
Sun: Rock Rings
Still hot for hard climbing, the Missuss do not like the heat. Trying to stay in shape for better weather
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stg - another 7b+ (Brachiation Dance/out of my boots) or a 7c (toadside), onsight 7a & E3, improve PE.
mtg - consolidate/improve RP & onsight grades.
ltg - 8a, 7C/+, E4.
M - zip
T - v diffs with the Mrs at Stanage during the day, redpointed Sardine in the evening for my first Tor tick.
W - Mrs birthday - out for breakfast, bit of a walk, out for dinner, bit of a drink.
Th - bit of a hangover... First Bell Hagg ticks while waiting for Mrs to do something in Broomhill. A dozen decent problems/highballs up to E1/6C.
F - MTB around Ladybower
S - routes at Burbage South, VS-E2.
S - zut
Good week, pleased to get Sardine so quickly, mad keen to find a new project and get back out there.
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S: Cornice 1 x 7a (6c+ really) flash; dogged and 2 RP attempts at The Corniceman (7a+ ??)
Which was the 7a? Sounds like what I'm looking for, even if it is 6c+ it'd still be progress if I could OS it.
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Further Adventures in Greendale. Looking at the UKC logbook to confirm the name I see that Uptown did it yesterday too.
Good effort on Sardine.
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Mon.wall tired from yesterdays efforts.didn't do much hot anyway.
Tue.nowt.
Wed. wall very hot did repeats i.e. doing a problem several times.did 4 x4 plus some easier stuff.
Thu.nothing.
Fri.rode to work 48 mins.rode home 55mins.
Sat.out on bike 3hrs 40 mins hilly achieved a h/r of 184 not had this high for a bit.
Sun.wall repeated a problem i've not been able to do again.out on bike 2hrs flat.a
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Further Adventures in Greendale. Looking at the UKC logbook to confirm the name I see that Uptown did it yesterday too.
Good effort on Sardine.
Cheers & Cheers
Looking like I might be down there three times this week so I'll give that a go.
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STG - Get weight back down >
Get stamina up > Onsight previous best sport route (F6c+)
MTG - Get proper fit for Mallorca in September > Onsight F7b (Waikiki or Phantomas)
LTG - F8a
Monday - Stamina session at Leeds wall. Reduced rest between sets from 10 to 8 mins.
Tuesday - rest.
Wednesday - Stamina session at Leeds wall - added higher grade to pyramid. Hard but completed all the work.
Thursday - rest.
Friday - nowt.
Saturday - Robin Proctor's Scar. Did a few routes in the afternoon; flashed a F6c.
Sunday - Giggleswick South. Brilliant day out. Onsighted a F6c+ (Heavenly Whispers, lovely route) so STG achieved! Get in.
Brilliant week in its own right, but certainly when compared to the slovenliness of my recent training history. I have also managed to not drink very much. 12 Units spread across Friday, Saturday and Sunday. Too psyched to binge.
Of my short term goals I have achieved 2. My weight hasn't gone down despite me visibly reducing my gut. Body has changed shape (I look a bit like a climber again) but weight remained the same - bizarre! New short term goal = onsight F7a. By August 10th.
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Body has changed shape (I look a bit like a climber again) but weight remained the same - bizarre!
Muscle is heavier than fat.
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Having gone missing in action I'm going to get back on the wagon. I buggered my left knee 3 weeks ago so can't climb at the minute. Only goal is to mend knee.
Mon: nothing
Tues: Weighted pull-ups, pretty good, increased max weight
Wed: Leaving do at work
Thurs: deadhanging, mediocre as I haven't done any in ages, not really backwards tho'
Fri: weighted pull-ups, v. good - same max weight but increased reps/sets.
Sat: gentle 20x25m swim, taking it easy as can't use left leg quite properly. Steam room and jacuzzi. V. nice
Sun: nowt.
Need to see if I can find more weights lying around to increase the load again this week.
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Thought joining in might inspire me to try and train a bit more...
Goals:
(short term) make the most of the dryness and tick some Cornice(s) stuff.
(longer term) get back to climbing 8b+/8c, finish Evolution, have a few more sessions on Hubble, maybe join the queues on Unjustified. Climb font 8b in font, maybe. A spot of bouldering perhaps. Climb a Frankenjura 8c possibly. Go back to the Tarn and do Tenessee. Go to Margalef. We'll have to see how much time I have.
Mon: Work.
Tue: Work.
Wed: Work. Wonder where I can mount my Beastmaker and campus board in the new house that won't just result in the Rawl bolts exploding the old bricks and/or lots of building work. Work.
Thurs: Work.
Fri: Work.
Sat: A bit of work, then install cat flap then a curry with the Littlefairs.
Sun: Cornice and the Nook followed by a nice meal out on the way home. Try to work in eve, prepping case for Monday but too tired (probably the single bottle of beer with the meal that did it). Get up early on Monday to do it then instead.
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STG - get some fitness back
MTG get down to 13 1/2 stone again
LTG - get soem climbing fitness back
M-Walked to work and back - 1 hr Went to gym at lunchtime and swam 15 or so lenghts (20m pool) disappointed by how much I sucked.
T- half hour of "hills with pushchair"
W- Walked to work and back - 1 hr
T - Walked to work and back - 1 hr
F - Walked to work and back - 1 hr
S- Nowt
S - Did red circuit at Glentress - definitely slowest on climbs, but still held my own on descents. Not used to saddle though!!!!
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Thought joining in might inspire me to try and train a bit more...
Mon: Work.
Tue: Work.
Wed: Work. Wonder where I can mount my Beastmaker and campus board in the new house that won't just result in the Rawl bolts exploding the old bricks and/or lots of building work. Work.
Thurs: Work.
Fri: Work.
Sat: A bit of work, then install cat flap then a curry with the Littlefairs.
Sun: Cornice and the Nook followed by a nice meal out on the way home. Try to work in eve, prepping case for Monday but too tired (probably the single bottle of beer with the meal that did it). Get up early on Monday to do it then instead.
Top tip. Just say no to DIY. Pay someone to do it. It causes repetitive strain injury (Keith) lost thumbs (Dolly) and eats up valuable time when you could be climbing/training. From what Sarah said about the time it took to do the catflap its not your strong point especially in the context of what your chargeable hours must be. Oh and welcome to PC. :wave:
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STG: Holiday on Skye starting next weekend, really looking forward to it.
MTG: Onsight 7b regularly
LTG: Infinite Gravity and Freaky Ralph
Mon: Yoga, fingerboard and repeaters
Tues: Run
Wed: Yoga, fingerboard and repeaters
Thurs: Run
Fri: Yoga
Sat: Short but good day climbing at Winspit, cleaned up a few previous onsight failures. Too hot/greasy to project.
Sun: Ultimate cooked breaky, cycle to work it off and then lovely chill day.
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Wonder where I can mount my Beastmaker and campus board in the new house that won't just result in the Rawl bolts exploding the old bricks and/or lots of building work.
I've heard of people epoxying a long threaded bar into soft/old brickwork before to avoid crumbling/exploding caused by expanding anchors (i.e. rawl bolts).
[Disclaimer] I haven't done this myself though so I can't vouch for its strength...!
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From what Sarah said about the time it took to do the catflap its not your strong point especially in the context of what your chargeable hours must be. Oh and welcome to PC. :wave:
The cat flap is a masterpiece. Sarah has no idea about the level of craftsmanship that lies beneath the plastic exterior. I carved wooden filler strips that fit into beading around the door panels and everything.
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STG: E3
MTG: E4
LTG: E7
Last week: sweet fuck all. one fingerboard session on saturday but that was it. no enthusiasm.
Lost the psyche last week, just had no desire to exert any enerygy. Went out to one of the islands of donegal yesterday though and did a new route (E1 or 2) onsight on steep rock with loose holds. The kind of thing that had i tried it this time last year I would have been pumped and useless after about 2 minutes. Nice to see improvement. Hopefully this week will be a bit better.
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Goals - quick ticks in the mid-high 7's, GA, COTC, GBH
Tues - volume bouldering at Awesome. Didn't climb well, felt weak.
Thurs - 50 minutes fingerboarding.
Sat - Kilnsey, crap conditions. Warmed up on 7a+. Put the clips in The Jekyll, had two redpoints failing at the same point due to lack of stamina. I'm 7b+/c fit and need to be 8a/+ fit, but it's improving with each trip out.
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S - Did red circuit at Glentress
So did i. Must have missed you.
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Wonder where I can mount my Beastmaker and campus board in the new house that won't just result in the Rawl bolts exploding the old bricks and/or lots of building work.
I've heard of people epoxying a long threaded bar into soft/old brickwork before to avoid crumbling/exploding caused by expanding anchors (i.e. rawl bolts).
[Disclaimer] I haven't done this myself though so I can't vouch for its strength...!
Ru - I used long pieces of threaded bar to hold a really solid back board that I could then mount the Beastmaker on.
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Body has changed shape (I look a bit like a climber again) but weight remained the same - bizarre!
Muscle is heavier than fat.
True but I don't think I've gained any muscle in my stamina sessions.
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Freeway beta - if you get on it...
If you swing leads one person gets both the hard pitches. Mostly E2-3, with two E4 pitches - the roof, with one hard stretch, and the corner two pitches below the roof which is sustained ('fiddly rps' on the topo = bomber wires 1-3). There are bolts anywhere it would be bold without. Amazing route.
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S - Did red circuit at Glentress
So did i. Must have missed you.
You kidding? We were there from about 11 until just after 1. Started off quite grim, but got better.
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S - Did red circuit at Glentress
So did i. Must have missed you.
You kidding? We were there from about 11 until just after 1. Started off quite grim, but got better.
Must have just missed you, got there about 1.30.
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Went to Croatia so did nada for the last week or so apart from swimming, snorkelling, and hiking wanted to actually get some climbing in, but everywhere worth going was so difficult/expensive to access from where we were it seemed like too much of a hassle!
Also I think holidays without climbing seem more dangerous, I managed to re-tweak my elbow (only a little thankfully) having an arm wrestling competition with all my girlfriends sisters boyfriends, and her mums boyfriend haha, I won but at the expense of injury lol.
Oh actually I did manage some climbing, I bought some five ten daescent's before I left so I had something I could walk around in and climb in if the mood took me, and hiking up this hill to view a really cool castle I came across a 5/6 metre high dry stone wall which presented a nice bit of fun climbing, small smears and tiny edges for the hands, really fun ;D
Anyhow, back to the exercise routine this week, need to get serious about dropping some weight, so the diet is getting serious now, as is the training.
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Must have just missed you, got there about 1.30.
I think we were still dicking about in the bottom car park at the at point. Will text you next time.
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I'm late.... STG 7B+
M: Almscliff. Punter. Lasted an hour.
T: Work
W: Work
Th : Work then Harmers wood after work. Good play - no real progress but felt stronger..
Fri: Work
Sa: Rubicon. Good play. Did nothing really but felt trashed afterwards... good.
Su. Drink.
Progress seems to have stalled/gone backwards in the last 2-3 weeks... despite frequency of climbing - maybe its the weather.. :shrug:
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STG: be strong, climb something hard
MTG: redpoint lots of 8as/onsight lots of 7cs in Europe
LTG: Tuppence 2011
M Milage up to 7b (redpoint) on S Wales sandstone
T 2 hours trying a 7A+ traverse at Bourton Coombe, not that psyched
W Onsighted a soft 7b at Avon, did a few 7a and 7a+ routes at Bourton Coombe
T Rest, cardio 30 mins run
F Rest, cardio 30 mins run
S 3 hours Parisella's, humid. Was weak and shit. Repeated Bust Lip.
S am Pill Box, failed to do PB original. pm Pass, failed on King of Drunks. Felt worse than when I tried it last year!
This week has taught me I need to stop pottering and start trying to climb harder shit.