UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: shark on March 07, 2010, 08:22:34 pm
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BTW if anyone is keen to post on Sunday and I havent started it yet - feel free to start it first..
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I've had a good week and am keen to put off the work I've got to do tonight!
Monday - Rest
Tuesday - Bouldered at the Matrix. Good session, did the 7b+ I set. Probably more like 7b. Ripped a huge flapper. Drove to Wales and slept in freezing cold bunk house ready for...
Wednesday - Bouldered in Llanberis Pass. Really good day out, flashed The Minimum and climbed some other good problems.
Thursday - Bouldered at the Matrix. Knackered, but still managed some good problems.
Friday - Rest.
Saturday - Rest.
Sunday - Bouldered at the Secret Garden. Another good day out. Managed to do Dick Williams in a session. Close to Zaff's Problem but greasy sloper raped my skin so sacked it off.
A really good week for me. Climbing well on consecutive days is looking good for Font trip. Saturday was an unintended rest day but probably helped my session today! Working a lot next week so less opportunity to climb. Must stay psyched and strong!
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Monday: Rest
Tuesday: Drove to The Pass and managed Bus Stop (thought it was brilliant). Walked over to Lizard King and found that last move was still absolutely nails for me and then drove home.
Wednesday: Fingerboarded in morning (weighted session 4.5kgs). Evening went to Wall and did a big hold/power session.
Thursday: Endurance session at wall. Did about 30 mins in total on easy circuits. Felt much better on fitness and recovery. Forgot to count up moves but will try and do this and set a baseline.
Friday: Rest
Saturday: Parisella's. Fell off end of High Life which was both frustrating and satisfying at same time, as it showed I am slowly improving. Did Ring of Fire High as consolation.
Sunday: Fingerboard session (weighted 5kgs)
Overall a good week and am psyched to both hit the grit this week and also complete unfinished business at cave. Have begun also to feel effects of doing a bit of endurance work, need to slowly increase the volume over the next month and prepare for the routes season.
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Goals: Cider Soak, Right Hand Man, 7Bs, strong for Europe
M - Cuttings. Did a 7c, felt a bit sloppy.
T - Rest (no running as bad ankle but think that will change this week)
W - 45 Power
T - 45 Poor and unstructured session, deadhangs (did 6 sec on 45s, a PB)
F - Rest
S - Ansteys. Fell off the last move of CS. Upset as wont get back for a few weeks.
S - Cheddar. Did a 7c (+ repeated it as good resistance training).
Medium week. Would have liked to do CS but that's life. Feeling very tired. Will possibly have a double rest day soon.
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8B, 8b, (E8)
M - AM in the Peak just punting around, PM new problem at Mytholm, 7C+(?) dyno.
T - Warton, failed to do Poison with extended start.
W - Warton did Poison with extended start.
T - Brief fingerboard session, maybe two minutes.
F - Waybuloo yoga
S - Widdop child herding
S - Shipley child herding (with a cheeky 7A flash)
Got out a reasonable amount this week but not done much, and no training to speak of, minmal Waybuloo and most worryingly no Lego. Font in three and a half weeks, time to up my game (although I have been having a preparatory croissant each morning)...
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Goals: font 8A+ UK&Swizz, a 7C in font
Mon: Fingerboard, maximal hangs front/back 2&3/monos/slopers/1 arm deadhang RH, pressups, corework,
Tues: Rest
Weds: Rest
Thurs: Fingerboard, maximal hangs front/back 2&3/monos/slopers/1 arm deadhang RH, pressups
Fri: General volume bouldering up to v8ish
Sat: Rest, red wine in evening.
Sun: Volume bouldering up to v8ish, more red wine.
Left arm seems a lot better than last week now i.e. I don't get searing pain and can lift it above shoulder height! Psyched for Tues/Weds to see if I can climb anything. Just need some time on rock before font trip so I don't climb like a total bellend :whistle:
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Goals - 7b+ this year
M: Fingerboard session - inlcuding 'fast' pull ups..
T: rest
W: Almscliff after meeting in Leeds. Forgot Bouldering mat! Low traverses etc.. Good progress on Si's arete, Steves wall hung first hold (few times) - improvement on last visits!
T: rest
F: Curbar. Great session. Nailed trackside first time, then spanked by Guerilla Warfare, then got close working Tracker - could well be first 7b as it all felt do-able..
Sa: rest (Gentle walking and drinking in Lakes with MrsTT)
Su: Hour or so traversing cottage where we were staying whilst MrsTT packed :)
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I have been having a preparatory croissant each morning
That's hardcore. I have a new hero. :bow:
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M: Nothing
T: Board session in the evening, goes rubbish for no obvious reason. Hey ho. Feel stronger hanging tho'
W: weighted pull-ups, goes fine
T: Harmers Wood in the day, do brilliant highball V5 I've not done before, lovely quiet time. Fingerboard in evening.
F: Achey
S: Weekend trip to Sheff YYFY. Set off from Cheshire in high excitement, weather shit in Peak NNFN. Bump into lots of Old Schoolers, Dance (and drink) the night away. This does count as aerobic.
S: Wake up absolutely buggered to glorious weather. Am v.v. wobbly at Plantation. Bump into more old men
Not much 'snap' this week for some reason (esp on Tues) but bit of volume
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STG: E3 / El Capitan in June
MTG: E5
LTG: make my physio. redundant
M: Shoulder stability exs.: side-planks, mini-press-ups, lock-offs. Tweaky, so stopped early.
T: Continuous F5 for 15 mins.
W: Shoulder stability exs.
T: Climbing! Outside!! First time on rock this year. Glorious day, at Lawencefield of all places. Did a bunch of VSs and HVSs, felt pretty good.
F: Shoulder stability exs. Visit from sister+bro' in law. Wine was drunk.
S: Hungover
S: Shoulder stability exs.
The good: climbing is great.
The not-so-good: post-parenthood alcohol tolerance.
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Goal - Font 7A.
Weight: 13st 5lbs (-2lbs on last week)
M: Rest
T: Foundry session. Usual problems. No progress on the project problem. Power goatee had a fair session. 160 sit-ups. 40 press ups. Stretching.
W: 10 mile run in 90mins.
T: Foundry session. Warmed up and then set about working undone problems. Made progress on all and completed one. Power goatee on form. Short fingerboard session on 35s. Stretching.
F: Rest. Beer.
S: Inclement weather dampens my psyche for a long run. Rest. Beer. Power goatee ridiculed by all my mates. What do they know?
S: Curbar in glorious sunshine. Ticked The Ultimate Gritstone Experience in about 8 attempts which is pretty quick for me. Power goatee applauded.
Disappointed by the level of running as I've got the Grindleford Gallop this Saturday but really please with my form on rock considering my lack of rock time recently.
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Goal - not be quite so shit
Monday - Didn't feel great, persuaded myself to at least do something and knocked off 10 pull ups on the 20mm edge.
Tuesday - Ditto. Cough/cold thing still hanging around - did another ten pull ups. Ate loads of nice pizza.
Wednesday - Went to the gym - pushed it a bit harder than last week. Still weak as fuck but definite improvement. Watched the England game and drank lager.
Thursday - Ached a lot. Drank wine and ate some really nice Spanish pork thing that the Mrs cooked.
Friday - Stared out of the office window at the glorious weather before going to The Works. Warmed up on a couple of problems before thinking that some of the reds looked ok. Flashed the first one I tried and it was all downhill from there. Ended up doing about ten of them with Old Skool legend Graham Hoey (some took five or six goes and we failed on a load too so plenty of volume for me!). Went to The Sheaf for a couple before a nice bottle of wine at home.
Saturday - Shoulders, arms and fingers destroyed! Took Raf to The Works but he wasn't interested as apparently it was "too busy". Had a nice pub lunch.
Sunday - Amazing weather but planned trip to Curbar cancelled as my cold was back with a vengeance. Pottered about shopping and taking Raf to the park (balance training on wobbly bridge) before he fell asleep in the car enabling us to have a pint outside The Sheaf in the sun.
Pretty good week spoiled by being ill. This stupid cold thing has been bugging me all week without being too bad. It's got worse last couple of days so will hopefully fuck off soon. Definitely felt stronger at the gym and at The Works despite it.
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Last week was pretty much the same as the week before.
M - recover from knee surgery
T - recover from knee surgery
W - Have stitches out and recover from knee surgery
T - recover from knee surgery
F - recover from knee surgery
S - recover from knee surgery
S - recover from knee surgery
I wouldn't normally post on this thread, but I'm feeling really sorry for myself.
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Goals this year
get used to sport climbing
boulder 7c+ in this country - boulder 7c in font
2weeks of fingerboarding 4x a week. Altered to include more grip types but kept overall volume roughly the same.
3sets of front 2, mid 2 and back 2
5 sets of 1/2 crimp 3 fingers
3 sets of 4 finger half crimp
slopers if bothered
pull ups - one armers if feeling good if I'm not feeling powerful weighted pull ups (40kg) or assisted one armers if getting the weights out is too much hassle.
Sunday fingerboarded
Tuesday fingerboarded
Thursday fingerboarded - hurt finger
Friday went to the works as I presumed the finger injury was bruising and noticed no discomfort whilst climbing. Was quite crap at climbing unsuprisingly.
Sunday fingerboarded without any problems hoping the finger is only bruised.
Another 4 sessions next week.
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Goals: F7c (this year), More Font 7Bs, F8a before 1/1/2014
M: Few pullups
T: Campus and fingerboard @ The Works - But of a frustrating session as I'm being uber careful so I don't fall off an trash the knee even more. This means starting at well below what I know I can do on the campus board but seeing how weak I feel it's no bad thing.
W: Not a lot.
T: Campus and fingerboard @ The Works - Work out a better routine and get some ace reggae on me iPhone.. Destroyed!
F: Chill.
S: Dick about then DJ and drink til 3am.
S: Moan about sore head, sore knee and glorious weather...
Not a great week but better than the previous one... Good to sort out a training plan and get back on the horse as it were.. Probably need to fine tune a few things this week to get the most out of it but should be good for font @ Easter as long as the knee sorts itself out.... Good news on the knee front tho, can fully straighten it now, can weight it, physio's happy with progress and confident(ish) I'll be climbing by Font :thumbsup:...
:D
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Aims:
Cover of Men's Health
Beat celebrity Cross Dressing cagefighter Alex Reid in an armwrestle
Monday / Tuesday - Not a lot.
Wednesday - Really good 2hr+ road ride before heading up to town on the train
Thursday / Friday / Saturday - Excuses, excuses
Sunday - Awesome 70 miler, despite idiotic decision to ride into the wind up the coast rather than go the other direction. Oh and one of my contact lenses fell out going down a hill. Luckily it got stuck to my luxuriant eyelashes, and as such I managed to remove it, dunk it in PSP22, then reinsert it despite a brisk wind that threatened to blow it across the Channel...
This week will see if I can manage 200+ miles, a shit load of weights, some Beastmaker, evening classes at the Handsome Boy Modelling School, eat lots of sprouting beans and hopefully not get carried away with rum cocktails...
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i thought you were on about these:
(http://www.londonkettlebells.com/sites/default/files/imagecache/product_full/DSC00039_1_2.jpg)
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Goals – font 7C/grow some balls
M - nowt
T - Scary morning snowballing at High Neb afternoon sulking at Burbage South. Good workout without much success, felt like a wasted day in the end.
W- sore
Th – last minute issue at work robbed me of the afternoon off, headed back to Electrical Storm for an hour after I got out to test new beta but still can’t reach the crimp. Have a few attempts at my previous sequence but don’t want to risk holing skin and head home.
Fri – return to Stanage End snowballing, seems the routes are just as high and scary as Tuesday, nearly give up but some easy solos around High Neb re-enthuses and I head to Pop End where I bump into Dan Arkle & friends, nice to have spotters/beta sharing and this bring some success. Good day in the end but very tiring.
Sa – knackered and sore skin, friends visiting so supposed to be out climbing but not that unhappy that the weather’s poor. Dinner and drinks in the evening, overdo it.
Su – early morning at Burbage West under protest, head & skin still sore & not bothered about doing much. Warm up, tape up, struggle up Breakfast and am happy to call it day.
Mrs & kids are away at the weekend so plan to rest up until Saturday then unleash on Almscliff.
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Aims 7b in font (onde du choc) + 7c route in uk and/or spain in the summer
M - poor circuits session, didn't feel recovered from saturday's session. ended badly splitting a tip
T - rest
W- power session 45 deg board. super glue lastted my warm up only
T - weights and bar work to give the tip time to heal
F- rest
S- bouldering comp at TCA + session on whites
S - supposed to be climbing routes in cheddar but woke up feeling rough so decided to rest
Weight - average for week 68.8kg but down to 68.2 on sunday morning
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Its been a shockingly piss poor week for training this week.
Short term goals, get some consistency back to my training
MT goal, improve technique, have fun, get strong
LT goal, get my ass up a V4 by May (my birthday)
Monday: Usual work and back bike milage, after which I sat around smoked a Cigar, did some work, I think it was a Sancho Panza Bachilleres, productive evening....not
Tuesday: Tried and failed to motivate myself to get down the gym, felt exhausted from the previous week of work still, smoked another Cigar, one of the new batch of Cohiba Siglo II's, lovely.
Wednesday:
Hit a couple of V0's, warmed up on the fingerboard, focused on good sit start technique and careful foot placement, then tried to blitz one or two V0's as quick as possible.
Elbow felt good after the rest so I thought let's push it a little more Hit a few V1's but the final move eluded me on two of them, 2 problems I had done relatively easily 2 weeks back.
Frustration kicked in after several attempts on each and I gave up, my body felt good but my brain felt like mush today, it just wasn't clicking into place, it was like I had the power to do it, but I just couldn't remember how?!
Fingers felt strong though so went and hammered them on the fingerboard, then decided to try some semi-plyometric stuff on the rock rings, trying to take one hand off and pull up quickly to touch the released hand above the pull up bar, tried several variations of this, including multiple hangs on the jug, 4 finger, and 3 finger, plus all combinations of the above, threw in a few pullups then finished, felt good.
I then hung off the slopers on the fingerboard until failure, which wasn't long, my fingers had nothing left after this, couldn't even take a key out of my wallet just after.
Feeling great felt like a really productive session.
Thursday: Was not a good day, I was amped to go to the gym until multiple situations conspired against me.
My mum got taken into hospital, she is diabetic and apparently after going for a general check-up, not only was her blood sugar dangerously high, but more seriously her Liver enzymes (can't remember which ones) were highly elevated, she was admitted straight away, but I couldn't find anything out for several hours, immediately after this whilst waiting to hear how my mum was doing, I found out I had to redo a load of crops of some images that I resized for a client, so had to spend 2-3 hours working on a job I had already finished, unsure as to the state of my mums health whilst I waited to hear from my dad or brother, I chain smoked a Monty No. 2 and one of the Sancho Panza's, very unlike me to smoke this much in a week, but fuck it, I was stressed to hell and needed something nice to cheer me up.
Got to speak to my mum later on, she was ok apparently and they thought there might have been an error in the liver enzyme test they did, another test was carried out with results expected the next morning.
Friday:
Found out the results from the original test were skewed somehow and her liver was fine, thankfully.....regardless I left work early and spent the afternoon getting to the hospital, visiting her, and then going to my parents place to catch up with my dad over a few beers.
Saturday:
Worked and picked up girlfriend from the airport
Sunday:
What an awesome day! After the week I had todays session down the wall with the missus was exactly what I needed.
I hit multiple V1's with ease, every V0 in the place without breaking a sweat, and even hit a new really awkward V1 with a bizarre horizontal slightly inverted sit-start, and some really challenging moves, it was so much fun, banged out a load of pull-ups, felt crazy strong on the rock rings and finger-board.
Elbow felt a little strange towards the end, didn't hurt so it must be getting better, still conscious of it though, so not going balls to the wall with my training yet.
But today felt great, i've noticed big gains in finger strength, need to up my pinch-grip a lot to match though, foot-work has improved greatly, amazing how much energy it helps you conserve in your arms when your foot-work improves!
So all in all, it felt like a productive week, albeit quite a disrupted one, will do better this week :)
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Last week was pretty much the same as the week before.
M - recover from knee surgery
T - recover from knee surgery
W - Have stitches out and recover from knee surgery
T - recover from knee surgery
F - recover from knee surgery
S - recover from knee surgery
S - recover from knee surgery
I wouldn't normally post on this thread, but I'm feeling really sorry for myself.
hi, sorry about your knee. Presumably as soon as you are over feeling crap from the anaesthetic you can get to the deadhanging/pull-ups? my mate fucked his tallus really bad and he hung and hung until he could climb again and he then had ridiculous finger strength
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Three Nine I see you had two rest days last week. WTF?! Stop slacking, you don't see Patxi taking two WHOLE DAYS off in a week. What is this thread coming to FFS etc.
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STG: Font in 3 weeks, tick 1 7B+
MTG/LTG: Freaky Ralph and onsight 7b
Mon: Nowt
Tues: felt shit, moped
Wed: fingerboard, ok sesh but tired
Thurs: Went to wall, felt like shit so came home and drank wine
Fri: fingerboard, good sesh, evening curry to celebrate
Sat: nowt
Sun: Portland, fantastic weather, too much chatting so didn't get as much done as I wanted but the onsighting's coming along nicely. All the fall practice and movement drills (that I've been doing with the ARC'ing) is producing some good results.
Was always going to be busy but think I had a virus thing at the beginning of the week which didn't help. Next week should be better.
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Three Nine I see you had two rest days last week. WTF?! Stop slacking, you don't see Patxi taking two WHOLE DAYS off in a week. What is this thread coming to FFS etc.
Well done.
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i thought you were on about these:
(http://www.londonkettlebells.com/sites/default/files/imagecache/product_full/DSC00039_1_2.jpg)
Is this to be positioned/stationed below the fingerboard to provide incentive not to let go? ???
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Even worse than SixNine I have taken two days off this week ...IN A ROW. The last time I did that was Xmas day and Boxing day. At least I halted last week's alarming weight gain.
Goals: Austrian Oak. 10,000 8anu points
Weight: 11.4-5 (last week11.4-7)
M. Eve. 90mins on Wave.
T. Managed to wake up in time for 7.30am Yoga class this week. Lunch: Fingery Endurance on systems board
W. Assisted one arm deadhangs and pull ups and offset pull-ups on board and ladder. In contrast to last week Started well, ended poorly.
T. Lunch: Fingery Endurance on systems board.
F. :yawn:
S. :yawn:
S. Malham. Beautiful day. Some OK links on the Oak but no PB's.
Going to wind down training to day-on, day-off and less intense sessions so I am fresh for the Oak over the next 4 weeks after which we have a communal family holiday at Font. After that probably leave it alone till the Autumn if not really close.
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Goals are changing a bit. Now: Straightened, Zoolook, COTC, GA.
Mon - rest
Tues - Novovirus, spoke to the big white phone all night
Wed/Thurs/Fri - recovering from Tuesday, no food to speak of for 3 days as stomach unable to cope
Sat - some food
Sun - Malham. Felt light (I'd lost 1.5 - 2 kg after the lack of food) but lacking stamina. Has 3 good goes on Straightened, going from the good holds after the start to the crux on Baboo, then to the top each time. very pleasing given how little time I've had on the string in the last 4 months. I'll try to keep the weight off as well!
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Sounds like a grim rapid weight loss idea Andy. Get some fat on ye' yoof :beer1:
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Three Nine I see you had two rest days last week. WTF?! Stop slacking, you don't see Patxi taking two WHOLE DAYS off in a week. What is this thread coming to FFS etc.
Well done.
Thanks for the nonsense karma. + and - are accepted graciously but only if they make sense and in this case........
It's not about decorum you halfwit it's about understanding the point of this thread. You have missed it completely despite it being politely and eloquently pointed out in very simple terms. A healthy attitude to training does not necessarily mean doing 35 hours a week on a board. It's all fucking relative.
Have you quit your job / course / friends / rest of your life in order to climb full time and devoted yourself to it completely? If not then I reckon you should stop trying to preach to people who've done all that in the past but now have a life and yet still can't surpress a desire to try to climb harder.
What gives you the right to slag others off with your holier than thou attitude? You're not training like Patxi you're just bumbling around like the rest of us so get off the high horse unless you're going to put your money where your mouth is.
And what the fuck is "well done" supposed to mean in that context? :wave:
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I'm not a half-wit. I think you understood my original point (others seemed to). In your last post you were just being a cock. I was just trying to be encouraging in my own way and it seemed to make people reflect on stuff, even if they didn't agree. You seem to want to make it personal and acting like this on an internet forum where you feel safe and comfortable throwing stones around is a bit lame. I don't think you would say that to my face. You are welcome to the last word, but this is a thread on training - why not start a new thread to bitch about me? :-*
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WTF?
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Sorry, but i had to rush my post before my daily 8.30am 3 hour mono campussing session.
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I'm not a half-wit. I think you understood my original point (others seemed to). In your last post you were just being a cock. I was just trying to be encouraging in my own way and it seemed to make people reflect on stuff, even if they didn't agree. You seem to want to make it personal and acting like this on an internet forum where you feel safe and comfortable throwing stones around is a bit lame. I don't think you would say that to my face. You are welcome to the last word, but this is a thread on training - why not start a new thread to bitch about me? :-*
I think you may have forgotten the slagging off of this thread you did last week (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,13747.msg249071.html#msg249071) (and here (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,13747.msg249083.html#msg249083) and your general sarcasm (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,13747.msg249165.html#msg249165)).
I suspect that was the underlying reason Jasper made a jibe at you having two rest days and you'd forgotten about what you wrote last week whilst he hadn't.
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I'm not a half-wit. I think you understood my original point (others seemed to). In your last post you were just being a cock. I was just trying to be encouraging in my own way and it seemed to make people reflect on stuff, even if they didn't agree. You seem to want to make it personal and acting like this on an internet forum where you feel safe and comfortable throwing stones around is a bit lame. I don't think you would say that to my face. You are welcome to the last word, but this is a thread on training - why not start a new thread to bitch about me? :-*
:wall: I don't want the last word, it's not worth it as you just don't get it.
I apologise for calling you a halfwit. That was out of order, it's just I get a bit frustrated when people don't listen to reason. I'd be happy to call you a halfwit to your face and then apologise too by the way. I do talk just the same in real life.
:)
Sorry, but i had to rush my post before my daily 8.30am 3 hour mono campussing session.
That's pretty funny. Same joke I was making but from a different angle.....but of course, I was "being a cock". Anyway, back to the mono campussing.........
EDIT - What slackers said too.
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I think you two should fight it out - handbags at dawn.
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I'm ill so I nominate Lagers as my second.
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(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_gP7ZH035B48/St-_8ckN4WI/AAAAAAAABZY/_B54u-2Si5c/s320/HarryHill_fight.jpg)
;)
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Ok righto. Sorry if i upset anyone.
What i think i meant to say in my original post (leaving aside what I actually said) was not that people weren't doing enough, but that people appeared to be valorizing laziness, by describing the 5 course meal they had etc. That's all. I appreciate that there is probably a degree of irony that I dont get, but it would be good if we could cultivate a climate of motivation, in which reading power club serves as an inspiring kick up the arse! I really didn't mean to come accross all sanctimonious - i never re-read my posts i just click 'post'.
I am only a beginner with training and i would always hope that people would criticize what i'm doing - as that would help me train better. Atm I have to have two rest days a week as my body is struggling to cope with the new training load, and i'm prone to sore elbows etc. I usually run on rest days but hurt my ankle. Did first run yesterday though and went ok, so expect to be doing cardio.
ps. more important than trying to justify probably an ill-judged post on my part is the fact that i would really appreciate people calling me up on what im doing. Power club could serve as some of that 'informal coaching' that Dave Mcleod bangs on about.
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Week foor in tha Yoo Kay Bee Powa Club howse. Cross dressin cage fita, Jasper Shorpe, has called hard-caw trainin' motyvayta, 3-9, a half wit. Yoo tha public now decide who stays in the howse.
[/poorgavellisimpression]
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I'm ill so I nominate Lagers as my second.
What on earth makes you think that I'm not ill? There is a vowel in the month after all.
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Ok righto. Sorry if i upset anyone.
What i think i meant to say in my original post (leaving aside what I actually said) was not that people weren't doing enough, but that people appeared to be valorizing laziness, by describing the 5 course meal they had etc. That's all. I appreciate that there is probably a degree of irony that I dont get, but it would be good if we could cultivate a climate of motivation, in which reading power club serves as an inspiring kick up the arse! I really didn't mean to come accross all sanctimonious - i never re-read my posts i just click 'post'.
I am only a beginner with training and i would always hope that people would criticize what i'm doing - as that would help me train better. Atm I have to have two rest days a week as my body is struggling to cope with the new training load, and i'm prone to sore elbows etc. I usually run on rest days but hurt my ankle. Did first run yesterday though and went ok, so expect to be doing cardio.
ps. more important than trying to justify probably an ill-judged post on my part is the fact that i would really appreciate people calling me up on what im doing. Power club could serve as some of that 'informal coaching' that Dave Mcleod bangs on about.
Training is very specific and what works for one person may not work for another.
Its down to you to sift through what others are doing, try it yourself and see if it works. I nor anyone else can know how your elbows feel after a given training exercise.
I suspect but don't know as I've not read it that 'informal coaching' is probably best gained from mates/randoms down the wall/training facility where you can see whats working and talk it through in real time.
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Power club could serve as some of that 'informal coaching' that Dave Mcleod bangs on about.
Ok, not coaching at all but here's a suggestion. If you can hang the 45's on a beastmaker then you should be aiming higher than font 7B, I can do that and there is no way I can hang the 45's, I'm not even close.
Admittedly I employ as much technical faggotry as I can to bring the moves down to my level but even so ...
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I'm ill so I nominate Lagers as my second.
What on earth makes you think that I'm not ill? There is a vowel in the month after all.
Yes, I hadn't thought that through. I nominate Dense instead.
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Right shut up everyone and listen to me
M - finger pain in both hands, went to Burbage North and climbed like Sharma; sorry - climbed like Schama
T - finger pain and toe pain (not gout :thumbsup: ) - hot water treatment
W - auto belay routes at Virgin (5,5+,6a,6a,6b,7a,7b,7b,6a,6a,6a) then burnt off by Jasper's mum on the weights so decided to do some dead lifts to restore honour (3x5x120kg)
Th - joints hurt in hands and feet - hot water and pain killers
F - run and pullups/dips (3x(6+6)fast), dead lift 140kg twice (patella pain)
S - coughing, joint pain. back feels great
Su - enjoyed perfect weather playing with kids and visiting BandQ. fingers hurt, toes less so.
weight 14st 7lb
body fat 31%
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So as I don't get in trouble with management.
My week last week was the same as the one before except
T - went to Glenshee and snowboarded all day. Not a lot of exercise but my inner right thigh got a really good workout from riding POMAs all dy long.
S - had a good balanceboard session - spent half an hour on it while building flat pack furniture. Mad multitasking skills.
S - did an hour and a half snowshoe walk with the bairn. Quite knackering walking like you have shit your pants for an hour and a half.
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So as I don't get in trouble with management.
S - did an hour and a half snowshoe walk with the bairn. Quite knackering walking like you have shit your pants for an hour and a half.
The Management are the trouble, he started this ridiculous other channel thread which has fortunately at last started to degenerate into where it should be at on UKB ;)
Had you shit yourself then Chris? If not why walk like you had?
Is it significant that the Management trains like a beast, never has consecutive days off, and yet can't do the warm up on Dolly's board?
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Power club could serve as some of that 'informal coaching' that Dave Mcleod bangs on about.
Ok, not coaching at all but here's a suggestion. If you can hang the 45's on a beastmaker then you should be aiming higher than font 7B, I can do that and there is no way I can hang the 45's, I'm not even close.
Admittedly I employ as much technical faggotry as I can to bring the moves down to my level but even so ...
It's all relative. I think the 45s are quite conditions-dependant and different boards vary. On the beastmaker at the climbing academy I can hang the 35s eaasily for 6 secs, but on my home one I can't get near that without nesting and latching the thumb a little.
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Weight: 61kg
Aims for 2010: rp 7b+ sport, o/s 6c+ sport, 7A boulder.
Stupid challenge to keep me motivated over the winter: Climb every problem in the room next to the tower at Ingleton Wall.
M: Routes at Kendal. Reasonable stamina session, up to 6c+, all steep and all long routes. Poor route reading when tired means I fail on a 7a flash attempt 4 or 5 moves from the top.
T: Bouldering at Inlgeton. Only 1 more problem, but given Ingletons highest grade (fuck knows what that means in real currency) so pretty pleased with that.
W: Fingerboard taken down due to pending redecoration which my wife assures me is urgent - sad times but still have rock rings. Exercised brain in a local pub quiz. Didn't win unfortunately!
T: Routes at Kendal. Do a decent volume of long routes but starting to feel I should be making more gains than I am. Disappointed to still be struggling to flash steep 20m 7a's. I have flashed most of the 10-12m 7a's I've tried at Kendal this winter but making significant enough gains in endurance is proving to be a bit of a weak point. :'(
F: Try to work out some kind of power endurance routine on rock rings. Am vaguely successful so do 7 or 8 sets of that. Forearms about to explode by the end.
S: Manage to snatch a bit of time before visiting guests arrive to do my first outdoor routes of the year. Do a couple of 6c+'s, one is a retro flash (good start) and the other was agonisingly close to an onsight. Get it second go without too many problems. My goal of a 6c+ onsight definitely feels on!
S: 3.5 hour walk in the Lakes. Amazing weather!
Strange week of lows and highs this week really. Looking forward to actually getting outdoors in the sunshine and doing some real climbing.
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The Management are the trouble, he started this ridiculous other channel thread which has fortunately at last started to degenerate into where it should be at on UKB ;)
Is it significant that the Management trains like a beast, never has consecutive days off, and yet can't do the warm up on Dolly's board?
Nic, I'm going to rise to the bait.
This thread might might be ridicuous to you but it is obviously intersting enough for you and Dolly to take a look and the piss. It is demonstrably motivating for thpose that join in and provides a bit of structure to recveiw and plan ahead, If you two could get over yourselves for one second and joined in rather than sneering from the sidelines you might find it a useful mechanism towards getting a bit fitter and stronger to get up things you secretly aspire to rather than staying in a complacent place.
Whilst Dolly's board is a wondrous thing its not going to be a goal of mine to excel there ahead of the Oak, Powerband and the other amazing routes in Yorkshire nor do I think its the optimum way for me to train for them. My lack of bouldering strength is very obviuosly a limitation and I have been working hard to address it but the gains are hard and slow to get.
Sorry to deprive you of the endless amusement that it gives you to see me struggling there on a very regular basis though I am happy to visit and be a figure of fun from time to time.
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OK Three Nine.
First the non-training bit:
People here take the piss, a lot, live with it, it's fun.
It's always a good idea to read what you're about to post, in much the same way as thinking before speaking.
Now the training bit:
I know next to nothing about training (I put lego in my training diary ffs!) but I'd agree that if you can hang the 45's you should be aiming higher than 7B, or working a different aspect of your climbing if you're not ticking 7B pretty regularly. I'd also add that training advice from beasts is not really what you want. The very good climbers are generally an annoying combination of huge natural talent coupled to bodies that can take endless punishment without getting injured. Not really applicable to the rest of us.
And finally the final bit:
A lot of people posting here are family men with a large array of other commitments besides climbing. This provides a handy way of recording how "training" is going, and by recording non-training can provide a bit of humour and also give a full picture of why the climbing isn't improving (after all five board sessions a week sounds good, until it's combined with 4 three course meals, seven bottles of wine, a few pints down the pub and a 14 hour session on the decks...). You have no idea how busy some people are, and the fact that they keep climbing at all is impressive let alone pulling down some fairly respectable grades.
I'm glad the beasts don't post here, can you imagine how depressing Rich Simpsons diary would be:
M - Woke up, picked an activity, decided to become world class at it, had lunch, trained really fucking hard all afternoon, had dinner, was world class at said activity, went to bed tired.
T - Woke up, picked an activity, decided to become world class at it, had lunch, trained really fucking hard all afternoon, had dinner, was world class at said activity, went to bed tired.
W - Woke up, picked an activity, decided to become world class at it, had lunch, trained really fucking hard all afternoon, had dinner, was world class at said activity, went to bed tired.
Th - Woke up, picked an activity, decided to become world class at it, had lunch, trained really fucking hard all afternoon, had dinner, was world class at said activity, went to bed tired.
F - Woke up, picked an activity, decided to become world class at it, had lunch, trained really fucking hard all afternoon, had dinner, was world class at said activity, went to bed tired.
S - Woke up, picked an activity, decided to become world class at it, had lunch, trained really fucking hard all afternoon, had dinner, was world class at said activity, went to bed tired.
Su - Woke up, picked an activity, decided to become world class at it, had lunch, trained really fucking hard all afternoon, had dinner, was world class at said activity, went to bed tired.
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I know your response is addressed to Norton, but seriously mate I don't think I've ever been anything other than encouraging when we've actually been out climbing together have I ?
In fact IIRC I'm the same when we're training on the board together - suggesting ways/alternatives to try a particular problem.
May I respectfully suggest that there's a difference between the times we actually climb together and online comments made tongue in cheek ?
I honestly think that you would get more bouldering power by training on the board rather than other methods - but that's OK we can have a difference of opinion can't we ?
FWIW I'm perfectly well motivated and not in a complacent place.
With love and kisses...
PS you're welcome to train tonight if you fancy it
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STG: Lose 5 pounds. Will probably achieve this watching football tonight.
MTG: Some 7's in Font. Chuff up an 8 again.
LTG: Do the Oak before the Shark.
Last week:
Monday - trained at Dolly's. Tired from previous weekend so did lots of long easy stamina problems (ie. more than 4 moves) to increase power endurance. Created a new four level grading structure for the board, Shark, too hard for Shark, quite hard, reet hard.
Tuesday - Bunked off work in the afternoon and went out to Stanage. Bumped into some old mates which was nice. Oh, did some bouldering too.
Wednesday - Trained, I think.
Thursday - work
Friday - :alky:
Saturday - DIY, house related, not the Stanage route.
Sunday - magic day out at Stanage doing first routes of the year, some highball solos and some bouldering. Confirmed that HVS 5b can still be anywhere between VS and E3 (Twin Buttress left hand buttress thingy). Froze solid listening to Big Ron.
Perhaps if you listened to us complacent old sneering farts sometime you would maybe get a bit stronger and achieve your goal of the Oak? You might even have fun in the process. :kiss2: :kiss2:
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Had you shit yourself then Chris? If not why walk like you had?
Have you ever done much snowshoeing? If you walk normally you trip over, esp when it's deep and slushy.
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Nik, thanks for your post. I felt I needed to say something but the 4 double G+Ts held me back and I couldn't be arsed and now you've saved me the bother.
Sometimes on here, just occasionally, I despair. I fucking despair.
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It's all relative. I think the 45s are quite conditions-dependant and different boards vary. On the beastmaker at the climbing academy I can hang the 35s eaasily for 6 secs, but on my home one I can't get near that without nesting and latching the thumb a little.
Completely agree, but I recently had the chance to try the beastmaker at the climbing academy too and although everything did feel far more friendly I was still nowhere near hanging the 45's.
As an aside, the climbing academy's beastmaker seems to be suffering a bit from the number of people that must be using it there, ridges are starting to form on some of the holds where the wood is wearing unevenly.
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Wow
Firstly I apologise for being so down on this thread at the onset. My original reason for this was after following the other channels version, which in my opinion only contains people willy waving with the occasional 'well done' from the management. Peoples honest break down of there training week is a refreshing insight into real life climbing training. Very useful when coaching and constructing plans for people who don't want to train like Patxi (Adam) but still want to improve.
Jasper et al raise good points and the fact that many of us have lives/mortgages/bairns/work etc and that our approach to training is no longer as simple as when we were at a Redtips stage in our climbing. It's interesting to see how much people do and don't train and what they get out of their climbing with their limited resources.
Climbing for me in very important and I can't ever see myself not having it in my life. However other commitments get in the way of my goals and I'm unable to train the way I know I should (hence why I coach other people). Even without these commitments I still don't feel that I could devote my whole being to climbing as I just don't have it in me. I'm sure this is the same for many people on the forum.
Threenine, you comments and general air is annoying and rather destructive to other people and it's no wonder why people are getting pissed with you. People are less likely to sift through your training and offer constructive criticism while you are peering down from your ivory tower (myself included).
............and BTW Simon climbing on a board is exactly what you need to do to improve your chances at Malham. Increases in your power will have a direct effect on your PE and stamina and should be quicker to gain as you are starting from a lower base level rather than trying to improve an already strong area in your climbing.
Peace and fucking
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just occasionally, I despair
what sort of training are you doing for this?
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just occasionally, I despair
what sort of training are you doing for this?
4 double G+Ts
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People say gin can make you depressed but if you take enough ecstasy tablets before you start drinking it then it's fine. Just a tip.
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Top post Dylan,
Lifestyle commitments are sometimes a genuine constraint but can also sometimes be an excuse. With ingenuity, a bit of structure and motivation there is usually a way round to at least maintain a level.
Re board training - thanks for the tip - I agree - so much so that I have built my own and can plug away at it on my own - more so when my Foundry membership runs out at the end of the month.
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just occasionally, I despair
what sort of training are you doing for this?
4 double G+Ts
Ah! I wasn't sure which came first; de gin or dis pear.
I assume its doubles for PE and singles for strength?
RE: Jasper's comments on Es and gin
I'm fuckin dis custard
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I'm in dis dress.
It's quite comfortable.
Good words Dyl.
Once parents go home and at least do a week before clocks change, I will start training in earnest.
And that's the setup....
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good to see you in full command of Dad Humour there Chris :thumbsup:
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I try.
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I'm sorry that this won't make for much reading until my easter vacation. I've wondered whether to opt out of this as it reminds me just how little time I'm able to give to training/climbing at the moment. It's really rather sad but after 13 hour days working I don't have it in me to pull on edges and whatnot. Alas, I had a brilliant review today and it's good to know that my working processes have come so far. This should have a knock-on effect of enabling me to work more efficiently and thus get to train more efficiently.
Sunday - Got to bed at 11pm having got up last at 10am Saturday. Stupid.
Monday - Uni
Tuesday - Uni
Wednesday - Uni
Thursday - Uni
Friday - Dj'd until 08.30am Saturday. Wanted to leave much earlier than this but got made to stay.
Saturday - Not enough sleep, went for some weissbiers then rested.
Sunday - Uni
Going out 'crushing' tomorrow so something to report next week.
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STG
climb 7a+ outside again
LTG
not to damage myself too much in doing the above.
Mon day off work.burbidge north.eventually got up fallen block lip v6,took awhile to fit mybody to the sit start.might need to include some stretching in this training lark.
Tue nowt drank beer and watched the footie
Wed back went into spasm while washing my feet in the shower.
Thu off work as its taking me 10 mins to get straight after sitting down.core exs and beastmaker 6 secs max hangs.walked for 11/2 hours back felt better.drank wine
Fri back feels shit.beastmaker encores and repeaters.drank wine
Sat back feels a bit better.walked for an hour.went for lunch with the missus,had a ploughmans which seemed to have the same amount of cheese in it that switzerland annually exports .beastmaker 6 secs max hangs struggling on one handed stuff. walked for a hour.drank some wine.
Sun walked for 11/2 hours back felt good.thought about not drinking wine so drank beer,then some wine
Conclusion
my backs fucked.
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Lifestyle commitments are sometimes a genuine constraint but can also sometimes be an excuse. With ingenuity, a bit of structure and motivation there is usually a way round to at least maintain a level.
I agree with Simon.
Taking note of the "How long a session do folks really have when training (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,13711.0.html)" thread, there is always the 10 minute fingerboard session (http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/training_giude_simulator.html) outlined by Metolius. It provides a surprisingly intense workout and, combined with a proper warm up, will only take 30 minutes, tops. I fall back on this when I'm pressed for time or have lots of other commitments - used to do it on a lunchtime at work.
And it's probably just as effective performed on a Beastmaker!
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Mark, you fell off at the last move on the cider soak? That's really really close - well done matey. You'll get it soon.
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In Kazakhstan on the phone so very brief.
M - Run then train to London and Work
T - Work then train home
W - Work the neighbours board in evening. Was weak in finger but strong in arm. Ripped a massive flapper.
T - Works for 30 mins then curry and beer with GME
F - Physio
S - Run
S - Up at 4am and flew here.
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I was a week ahead of my self last week.weekend report.
Sat-bonus point day with g-f :-)
Sun-crat/r.h.s ,flashed a 7a plus plenty of other stuff upto 7a+ including "dry wit" which was good.had do a trouser swop with andi tho as I had jeans on and couldn't lift my leg.a lesson learnt there.
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I lied, T at the works was the week before.
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Goals for the year: Font 7b, Fr 8a+, have a baby (support wife)
last week completed one of year goals! :dance1:
Monday: Sets of power pulls on the bar (45 mins)
Tuesday: Session at the west way - bouldering v5/6s
Wednesday: Rest
Thursday: Session at the west way
Friday: helped deliver our baby - way more fun than i thought it might be
Saturday: 'rest' (in a purely climbing context) - began to watch the demise of my bouldering grade as tucked into NHS lasagne and realised paternity leave might not meen daily sessions at the wall. :-\
Sunday: nappy change of jet black sticky crap - got it everywhere.
following a recent high of v8 at the wall im determined not to lose it all so will keep posting on here as a form of shame
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Got my reminder/ kick up the ass
Aims:
Be the best climber in Suffolk
Regularly burn off Cockerneys at the Westway
Zoo York
7A in Font
Maintain current (un)healthy paranoia levels
M: Buy pull up bar, do pull ups, approx 80 in total
T: Hard physical work day. Design a way of fixing beastmaker to pullup bar, do so, Beastmaker sesh, not too bad considering I haven't been on it for a while, highlight is full set of repeaters middle 2 small pockets. Also do some core stuff.
W: Beastmaker sesh, slopers and three fingers dragging mainly
T: Rest/pack
F: Drive to france
S: Drive to Font, get spanked at Isatis and Cusiniere
S: Get spanked at Roche aux Sabots and Bas Cuvier
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Zoo York
7A in Font
Shome dishparity shurely? :-\
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Shome dishparity shurely? :-\
I've done ZY in two overlapping parts, but there's 7A's in font with moves I can't do, that's where the disparity lies!
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Friday: helped deliver our baby - way more fun than i thought it might be
Congratulations, Rob!
Is this Toby? Jeremy's Uncle? :shrug:
Parenthood is pretty cool... thus far. The demise in my grade will be interesting to watch - Power club will track this.
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Shark has been waving his beating stick in my direction, so:
Goals:
Have the most slapdash haphazard and unfocused approach to training I can muster.
This week:
Mon - n/a / brief theraband exercises / had applied arnica cream to tweaky finger overnight and had felt a lot better / now can't find arnica cream.
Tue - 2 hours hard bouldering on new project, seems hard, progress 1m up, finger felt okay, shoulder a bit achey / swim 750m, felt good and relaxed, shoulder tweaky / still can't find arnica cream.
Wed - 1 hour steady walk / 2 hours hard bouldering on new project, all limbs feel okay but it is desperate, progress still 1m up / where is the bloody arnica cream??
Thu - get let down by supposed climbing partner / 15 mins run in (5/1/5/1/5), which is good / find arnica cream in my pants.
Fri - n/a
Sat - n/a
Sun - ski all day, legs good, awesome.
Comments
A mixed week. Getting a bit of motivation back. Swimming after bouldering was a nice touch, and the lone run was interesting, I can definitely do more than I thought, so will keep pushing with that. Climbing-wise the bouldering was weird, I might have bitten off more than I can chew with this project, although it is as interesting as it is confusing. It's not great training though. My shoulder has improved a bit but my finger is still tender - curious that it responds so well to arnica, maybe it is bruising more than a tweak??