UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => chuffing => Topic started by: jwi on February 25, 2019, 09:19:55 am
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All climbers who have done 9a+ or harder (of which FA), including a number of fantasists as per usual.
Climber #≥9a+ #FA
1 Adam Ondra 61 39
2 Chris Sharma 21 16
3 Alex Megos 15 5
4 Stefano Ghisolfi 14 3
5 Sachi Amma 13 3
6 Jakob Schubert 11
7 Jonathan Siegrist 8
8 Ramón Julián Puigblanqué 8 5
9 Piotr Schab 8 1
10 Sébastien Bouin 7 3
11 Dani Andrada 6 5
12 Magnus Midtbø 6
13 Ramon Julian 6
14 Matty Hong 5
15 Pirmin Bertle 5 5
16 Daniel Woods 5 1
17 Iker Pou 5 4
18 Patxi Usobiaga 5
19 Fred Rouhling 4 4
20 Edu Marin 4
21 Gérôme Pouvreau 4 3
22 Enzo Oddo 4 1
23 Jon Cardwell 3
24 Cédric Lachat 3
25 Klemen Becan 3 1
26 Ethan Pringle 2
27 Steve McClure 2 2
28 Bernabé Fernandez 2 2
29 Jorge Diaz Rullo 2 1
30 Markus Bock 2 2
31 Margo Hayes 2
32 Stefano Carnati 2
33 Alexander Megos 2 2
34 Daniel Jung 2
35 Jernej Kruder 2 1
36 Mateusz Haladaj 2
37 Gonzalo Larrocha 2
38 David Firnenburg 2
39 Angela Eiter 1
40 Jacob Shubert 1
41 Danilo Pereyra 1
42 Dimitri Sharafutdinov 1
43 Sylvain Millet 1
44 Dave Graham 1
45 Sean Bailey 1
46 Luis Alfonso Felix 1 1
47 Jakub Konecny 1
48 David Gambús 1
49 Jakob Shubert 1 1
50 Félix Neumärker 1
51 Dai Koyamada 1
52 Mathieu Bouyoud 1 1
53 Arthur Kubista 1 1
54 Alessandro Zeni 1 1
55 Jan Hojer 1
56 Shawn Raboutou 1
57 Yuji Hirayama 1 1
58 Toru Nakajima 1
59 Tommy Caldwell 1 1
60 Pablo Barbero 1 1
61 Gabriele Moroni 1
62 Silvio Reffo 1
63 Vasya Vorotnikov 1 1
64 Mike Foley 1
65 Andrew Palmer 1
66 Paul Robinson 1
67 Tristan Chen 1
68 Andreas Binhammer 1
69 Andreas Bindhammer 1
70 Felix Neumärker 1
71 Sangwon Son 1
72 Jacopo Larcher 1
73 Tomas Ravanal 1
74 Gerard Rull 1
75 Stefan Schibli 1 1
76 Joe Kinder 1 1
77 Daniel Fuertes 1 1
78 Alexander Huber 1 1
79 Roland Hemetzberger 1 1
80 Domen Skofic 1
81 Said Belhaj 1
82 Felipe Camargo 1
83 James Litz 1 1
84 Baptiste Dherbilly 1
85 Loïc Zehani 1
86 Kamil Ferenc 1
87 Anak Verhoeven 1 1
88 Eric Albertini 1
89 John Gaskins 1 1
There are a number of lists of hard ascents on the internet. The best by far is http://escalade9.wifeo.com/histoire-du-9e-degre.php which lists all routes from 9a+ and up (and lots of historical 9a and 9a+ routes as well) with route descriptions, list of ascensionists, photos etc. In short, an indispensable resource.
On https://www.99boulders.com there is a list of all hard boulder-problems, routes and traverses.
Both these lists suffers from not being 'tidy'. (A list should have one row per individual ascent, and the row should contain all observations about the ascent, such as route name, location, first ascensionst, ascent date etc.) If the list is not tidi it is difficult to put the lists into your favourite software for analysing the data.
Inspired by the threads UK men|women who have done X I compiled a tidy list of all ascents of routes 9a+ or harder here>
https://github.com/JonasWiklund/Hard-Ascents
In order not to be bogged down in editorial choices when keeping track of every ascent >=9a+ I have included a number of well known fantasists (i.e. climbers who claim ascents of 9.x but have never been witnessed doing anything of comparable difficulty e.g.. doing another 9.x, 9.(x-1) in a day, or onsights of 9.(x-2)).
From this list it is trivial to extract list like the one above, or
Country 5.15 routes
1 Spain 44
2 France 20
3 Italy 10
4 Norway 9
5 Swiss 7
6 United States 5
7 Germany 5
8 Austria 5
9 Japan 4
10 Czech republic 3
11 Canada 3
12 England 3
13 Slovakia 1
14 Slovenia 1
15 Bosnia 1
16 Malaysia 1
17 Chile 1
18 Romania 1
19 Macedonia 1
20 Croatia 1
Included on the gituhub is also a timeline of all first ascents of routes 9a+ or harder (which looks a bit messy atm, I'll fix this when I have time) https://github.com/JonasWiklund/Hard-Ascents/blob/master/TimeLine.pdf
9a+ is likely a too low cut-off for hard routes, and it's soon time to move it to 9b.
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:2thumbsup: yes!
I guess you've seen https://www.hardclimbs.info ? Seems fairly comprehensive of the stuff I've checked.
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:2thumbsup: yes!
I guess you've seen https://www.hardclimbs.info ? Seems fairly comprehensive of the stuff I've checked.
Yes, I think https://www.hardclimbs.info/climbs?styles=2 har the same data as on 99boulder. They seem to include long traverses, and have some iffy grades on some of the routes. Good list but not tidy, and doesn't include dates.
I just saw that Alex Megos is on my list under two different names (Alex and Alexander). I should probably change "England" to United Kingdom as long as the Kingdoms are indeed united (and as there are no hard routes in Wales, Scottland or Northern Ireland).
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Spain and United States have good weather... And Frankenjura has Alex Megos and Adam Ondra for repeats...
Country Routes Ascents
1 Spain 44 168
2 France 20 46
3 Italy 10 19
4 Norway 9 10
5 Swiss 7 9
6 United States 5 14
7 Germany 5 13
8 Austria 5 7
9 Japan 4 6
10 Czech republic 3 3
11 Canada 3 3
12 United Kingdom 3 4
13 Slovakia 1 1
14 Slovenia 1 1
15 Bosnia 1 1
16 Malaysia 1 2
17 Chile 1 1
18 Romania 1 1
19 Macedonia 1 1
20 Croatia 1 1
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Can you change the title to "World's worthiest humans"? ;)
It's weird that Australia doesn't have more more 9th grade routes- it's got the rock and the climbers. I guess it's too hot?
including a number of fantasists as per usual.
Who are the fantasists jwi? :popcorn:
there are no hard routes in Wales, Scotland or Northern Ireland
:jab:
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(and as there are no hard routes in Wales, Scottland or Northern Ireland).
wadded.
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There are, they just lack the crucial +
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So Ondra has still got more than half of the worlds 9a+ and harder to do before he has a comprehensive ticklist. He needs to pull his bloody finger out!
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including a number of fantasists as per usual.
Who are the fantasists jwi? :popcorn:
Climbers who claim ascents of 9.x but have never been witnessed doing anything of comparable difficulty e.g.. doing another 9.x, 9.(x-1) in a day, or onsights of 9.(x-2)
E.g. Bernabes Fernandez and Fred Rouhling have been witnessed doing individual hard moves and sequences, but nothing close to what they claim. Any 9b climber will be able to do 9a in a day or 8c onsight, a 9a every now and then and redpoint 8c+ like it is nothing. If there are no witness for integral ascents of any of these feats one must conclude that we're dealing with a fantasist.
The two aforementioned are the clearest examples, but there are a few more in the list where it is difficult to find independent witnesses or videos of actual ascents. Everyone on the list is clearly talented and super strong, well able to climb in the high 8s but rumours persist about dodgy claims for a few. I don't think it is my place to mention names.
Sadly, Akira is not possible to try atm. Seb Bouin wanted to try to clear it up for his project of climbing the first route of every grade in France. The cave is closed for public, and open to just a few visitors every year due to delicate cave paintings.
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So Ondra has still got more than half of the worlds 9a+ and harder to do before he has a comprehensive ticklist. He needs to pull his bloody finger out!
As a service for Ondra:
Name Grade Country
1: Perfecto Mundo 9b+ Spain
2: Akira 9b France
3: Ali Hulk (sitstart + extension) 9b Spain
4: Delincuente natural(extension) 9b Spain
5: Fight Club 9b Canada
6: Jumbo love 9b United States
7: La Barrière 9b Swiss
8: Rainman 9b United Kingdom
9: Soul Mate 9b Japan
10: Alasha 9a+/b Spain
11: Artaburu 9a+/b Spain
12: Catxasa (R2) 9a+/b Spain
13: El bon combat 9a+/b Spain
14: Les yeux plus gros que l'antre 9a+/b France
15: Supernova 9a+/b Germany
16: Ali Hulk (extension total) 9a+ Spain
17: Ali Hulk (extension) 9a+ Spain
18: Ali Hulk (sitstart) 9a+ Spain
19: Aubade directe 9a+ France
20: Becoming 9a+ Germany
21: Big men 9a+ Spain
22: Black Bock 9a+ Spain
23: Celedon 9a+ Spain
24: Clash of the Titans 9a+ Austria
25: Classified 9a+ Germany
26: Companion of Change 9a+ Austria
27: Deep Spot 9a+ France
28: Demencia Senil 9a+ Spain
29: Der Lange Atem 9a+ Austria
30: Dugi Rat 9a+ Croatia
31: Empreintes 9a+ France
32: Energia Cosmica 9a+ Italy
33: Es Pontas 9a+ Spain
34: First Ley 9a+ Spain
35: Flat Mountain 9a+ Japan
36: Flex Luthor 9a+ United States
37: Following the Leader 9a+ Spain
38: Jaws II 9a+ United States
39: Joe Mama 9a+ Spain
40: Kmira 9a+ France
41: La Cène du Lézard 9a+ Swiss
42: La Côte d'Usure 9a+ France
43: La Madone 9a+ France
44: La Moustache qui fâche 9a+ France
45: Le Vent Nous Portera 9a+ Chile
46: Licht une Schatten 9a+ Swiss
47: Life of Villains 9a+ United States
48: Maturity 9a+ Japan
49: Maya 9a+ Spain
50: Minimalomania 9a+ Swiss
51: Nit de Bruixes 9a+ Spain
52: No Pain No Gain 9a+ Spain
53: Orujo 9a+ Spain
54: Outro 9a+ Austria
55: Panorama 9a+ Spain
56: Peruvian Necktie 9a+ United States
57: Red Ram 9a+ Spain
58: Rise 9a+ Japan
59: Salamandre 9a+ France
60: Sashidananda 9a+ France
61: Seleccio Anal 9a+ Spain
62: Sweet Neuf 9a+ France
63: Tinipi 9a+ Malaysia
64: Violent New Breed 9a+ United Kingdom
I think we can let him skip Ali Hulk in its 4(!) versions. Akira is not possible atm.
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There were some doubling in my original list, due to spelling variations/errors. New list of the 83 9a+ claimants:
Climber #≥9a+ #FA
1 Adam Ondra 61 39
2 Chris Sharma 21 16
3 Alexander Megos 17 7
4 Stefano Ghisolfi 14 3
5 Ramón Julián Puigblanqué 14 5
6 Jakob Schubert 13 1
7 Sachi Amma 13 3
8 Jonathan Siegrist 8
9 Piotr Schab 8 1
10 Sébastien Bouin 7 3
11 Dani Andrada 6 5
12 Magnus Midtbø 6
13 Matty Hong 5
14 Pirmin Bertle 5 5
15 Daniel Woods 5 1
16 Iker Pou 5 4
17 Patxi Usobiaga 5
18 Fred Rouhling 4 4
19 Edu Marin 4
20 Gérôme Pouvreau 4 3
21 Enzo Oddo 4 1
22 Jon Cardwell 3
23 Cédric Lachat 3
24 Klemen Becan 3 1
25 Ethan Pringle 2
26 Steve McClure 2 2
27 Bernabé Fernandez 2 2
28 Jorge Diaz Rullo 2 1
29 Markus Bock 2 2
30 Margo Hayes 2
31 Stefano Carnati 2
32 Felix Neumärker 2
33 Daniel Jung 2
34 Jernej Kruder 2 1
35 Mateusz Haladaj 2
36 Andreas Bindhammer 2
37 Gonzalo Larrocha 2
38 David Firnenburg 2
39 Angela Eiter 1
40 Danilo Pereyra 1
41 Dimitri Sharafutdinov 1
42 Sylvain Millet 1
43 Dave Graham 1
44 Sean Bailey 1
45 Luis Alfonso Felix 1 1
46 Jakub Konecny 1
47 David Gambús 1
48 Dai Koyamada 1
49 Mathieu Bouyoud 1 1
50 Arthur Kubista 1 1
51 Alessandro Zeni 1 1
52 Jan Hojer 1
53 Shawn Raboutou 1
54 Yuji Hirayama 1 1
55 Toru Nakajima 1
56 Tommy Caldwell 1 1
57 Pablo Barbero 1 1
58 Gabriele Moroni 1
59 Silvio Reffo 1
60 Vasya Vorotnikov 1 1
61 Mike Foley 1
62 Andrew Palmer 1
63 Paul Robinson 1
64 Tristan Chen 1
65 Sangwon Son 1
66 Jacopo Larcher 1
67 Tomas Ravanal 1
68 Gerard Rull 1
69 Stefan Schibli 1 1
70 Joe Kinder 1 1
71 Daniel Fuertes 1 1
72 Alexander Huber 1 1
73 Roland Hemetzberger 1 1
74 Domen Skofic 1
75 Said Belhaj 1
76 Felipe Camargo 1
77 James Litz 1 1
78 Baptiste Dherbilly 1
79 Loïc Zehani 1
80 Kamil Ferenc 1
81 Anak Verhoeven 1 1
82 Eric Albertini 1
83 John Gaskins 1 1
Maybe a moderator could modify my first post?
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Nerd ;) :bow:
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Great list skillz.
Would be interesting to see all the 9a+/b/+ that are currently unrepeated..
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Great list skillz.
Would be interesting to see all the 9a+/b/+ that are currently unrepeated..
That's easy
Name Grade Area Country First.Ascensionist FA.date
1: Silence 9c Flatanger Norway Adam Ondra 2017-09-03
2: Change 9b+ Flatanger Norway Adam Ondra 2012-10-04
3: Vasil Vasil 9b+ Sloup Czech republic Adam Ondra 2013-12-04
4: Akira 9b Vilhonneur France Fred Rouhling 1995
5: Delincuente natural(extension) 9b Rodellar Spain Dani Andrada 2008-09-13
6: Chaxiraxi 9b Oliana Spain Adam Ondra 2011-03-27
7: Iron Curtain 9b Flatanger Norway Adam Ondra 2013-08-03
8: Move 9b Flatanger Norway Adam Ondra 2013-08-20
9: CRS 9b Mollans sur Ouvèze France Adam Ondra 2015-11-02
10: Fight Club 9b Raven's crag Canada Alexander Megos 2016-08-14
11: Robin úd 9b Alternatívna stena Slovakia Adam Ondra 2016-10-05
12: Mamichula 9b Oliana Spain Adam Ondra 2017-02-02
13: Queen Line 9b Arco Italy Adam Ondra 2017-04-18
14: Rainman 9b Malham Cove United Kingdom Steve McClure 2017-06-04
15: Move Hard 9b Flatanger Norway Adam Ondra 2017-07-10
16: Eagle 4 9b Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux France Adam Ondra 2018-02-13
17: Soul Mate 9b Okutama Japan Sachi Amma 2018-03
18: Disbelief 9b Acéphale Canada Adam Ondra 2018-07
19: La Barrière 9b Jansegg Swiss Pirmin Bertle 2018-08-26
20: Marina Superstar 9a+/b Domusnovas Italy Adam Ondra 2009-10
21: Catxasa (R2) 9a+/b Santa Linya Spain Ramón Julián Puigblanqué 2012-06-29
22: Torture physique 9a+/b Gastlösen Swiss Adam Ondra 2013-07
23: Supernova 9a+/b Frankenjura Germany Alexander Megos 2015-10-01
24: Viscious circle 9a+/b Osp Slovenia Adam Ondra 2016-03-25
25: Alasha 9a+/b Majorque Spain Chris Sharma 2016-09
26: Les yeux plus gros que l'antre 9a+/b Russan France Sébastien Bouin 2018-04-03
27: High Line 9a+/b Kanjon Tjesno Bosnia Adam Ondra 2018-09
28: Artaburu 9a+/b Margalef Spain Iker Pou 2018-12-19
29: Orujo 9a+ Archidona Spain Bernabé Fernández 1998
30: Flex Luthor 9a+ Rifle United States Tommy Caldwell 2003-01
31: Violent New Breed 9a+ Giggleswick United Kingdom John Gaskins 2004-06
32: Empreintes 9a+ Saint Pierre de Faucigny France Fred Rouhling 2008
33: Der Lange Atem 9a+ Höllental Austria Arthur Kubista 2009-10-31
34: L'étrange ivresse des lenteurs 9a+ Céüse France Adam Ondra 2010-09-06
35: Obrint el sistema 9a+ Santa Ana Spain Adam Ondra 2011-03-14
36: Perlorodka 9a+ Holstejn Mor Czech republic Adam Ondra 2011-09-06
37: Perlorodka 9a+ Moravsky kras Czech republic Adam Ondra 2011-09-08
38: Black Bock 9a+ Cuenca Spain Luis Alfonso Felix 2011-12-02
39: Peruvian Necktie 9a+ Pop tire cave United States James Litz 2013
40: Minimalomania 9a+ Lindental Swiss Pirmin Bertle 2013-03
41: Classified 9a+ Frankenjura Germany Alexander Megos 2013-04
42: Red Ram 9a+ Margalef Spain Ramón Julián Puigblanqué 2013-08-30
43: Hellracer 9a+ Hell Norway Adam Ondra 2013-09-22
44: Big men 9a+ Fraguel Spain Iker Pou 2015-04
45: Kmira 9a+ Pic St Loup France Sébastien Bouin 2015-07-09
46: Deep Spot 9a+ La Balme de Yenne France Mathieu Bouyoud 2015-08-08
47: Licht une Schatten 9a+ Telli Swiss Stefan Schibli 2015-11-15
48: Outro 9a+ Achleiten Austria Roland Hemetzberger 2015-12
49: 120 Degrees 9a+ Flatanger Norway Adam Ondra 2016-06-16
50: Hyper finale 9a+ Rawyl Swiss Adam Ondra 2016-07-17
51: Maya 9a+ Margalef Spain Ramón Julián Puigblanqué 2016-09-10
52: Naturalmente 9a+ Camaiore Italy Adam Ondra 2017-04-21
53: Clash of the Titans 9a+ Götterwandl Austria Alexander Megos 2017-06-18
54: Thor's Hammer R2 9a+ Flatanger Norway Adam Ondra 2017-09
55: Sweet Neuf 9a+ Presles France Anak Verhoeven 2017-09-06
56: Le Vent Nous Portera 9a+ Socaire Chile Pirmin Bertle 2017-10
57: Maturity 9a+ Gozen-iwa Japan Sachi Amma 2017-12
58: La Castagne 9a+ Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux France Adam Ondra 2018-02-03
59: Underground > Pure dreaming 9a+ Arco Italy Adam Ondra 2018-02-25
60: Stone Butterfly 9a+ Herculane Romania Adam Ondra 2018-05-15
61: Ali Hulk (extension total) 9a+ Rodellar Spain Piotr Schab 2018-07
62: Panorama 9a+ Patones Spain Jorge Diaz Rullo 2018-07-15
63: Sacrifice 9a+ Echo Valley Canada Adam Ondra 2018-07-23
64: La Côte d'Usure 9a+ Verdon France Sébastien Bouin 2018-09-23
65: Energia Cosmica 9a+ Bilico Italy Alessandro Zeni 2018-11
66: Rise 9a+ Futago-yama Japan Sachi Amma 2018-11
67: Czech Trip 9a+ Mavrovo Macedonia Adam Ondra 2018-12-19
68: Dugi Rat 9a+ Vrulja Croatia Jernej Kruder 2018-12-31
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So Ondra has still got more than half of the worlds 9a+ and harder to do before he has a comprehensive ticklist. He needs to pull his bloody finger out!
He's the first ascensionist for 30% of the climbs on the list though, so I guess he's not doing that badly.
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.
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Speaking of editorial choices: Edu Marin has freed the fifth pitch of Valhalla in Getu, China, at 9a+, but has not made an integral ascent of the route. Does that count? I would say yes, tentatively, as Edu is human and has climbed a 9a+ pitch from start to finish, even though he hasn't climbed the route.
So ascent counter is up to 311, route counter up to 125, and China has its first 9a+ pitch.
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I would say yes, tentatively, as Edu is human and has climbed a 9a+ pitch from start to finish, even though he hasn't climbed the route.
Seems sensible to me. Perhaps a comment field would be helpful to explain edge cases like this? Where it's not worth adding a column to the dataset because it would be so rarely used. It does go against the 'neat, easily analysed data' thing though.
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A comment field would definitely be a good idea. To keep it tidy, two comment fields would be needed actually. One comment field for the first ascension and one comment field for the ascent.
I couldn't be bothered with the effort when I compiled the list...
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A great tidy list, needs graphs.
Perhaps like https://hardclimbs.castlehillbasin.co.nz/ - which pulls data from https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1uzZPrUl5LJBknNup3UbPfe5iDXMI6Bbqko0eKxpz4iQ/edit
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A great tidy list, needs graphs.
For now, the only graph is this https://github.com/JonasWiklund/Hard-Ascents/blob/master/timeline.pdf which is worth downloading and scrolling at actual size in all its glory, if I may say so myself...
Nice spreadsheet btw!
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That timeline is great at full size.
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[...] needs graphs.
Ask and you shall receive
(https://i.imgur.com/q3bvujc.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/MfndEgJ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/FpbOTIs.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KcJPPu8.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4G44j15.jpg)
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Excellent!
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For the first quarter of 2019.
Name Grade Date Climber
Valhalla P5 9a+ 2019-01-20 Edu Marin
Catxasa 9a+ 2019-02-08 Adam Ondra
La Rambla 9a+ 2019-02-08 Piotr Schab
Neanderthal 9b 2019-02-12 Adam Ondra
Queen Line 9b 2019-02-26 Stefano Ghisolfi
Joe Mama 9a+ 2019-02-27 Jon Cardwell
La Rambla 9a+ 2019-03-02 Dave Graham
Joe Mama 9a+ 2019-03-03 Sean Bailey
Pachamama 9a+ 2019-03-05 Sébastien Bouin
La Rambla 9a+ 2019-03-16 Gonzalo Larrocha
Papichulo 9a+ 2019-03-22 Margo Hayes
Stoking the fire 9b 2019-03-25 Sachi Amma
All you can eat 9a+ 2019-03-29 Jonathan Siegrist
The ascents of "Life of Villains" are excluded since the route seems to have settled at 9a.
Have I missed something else?
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Scroll down in the yellow box, and you see it
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[...] needs graphs.
(https://i.imgur.com/4G44j15.jpg)
According to this exactly no one my height has climbed 9a+.
Which kind of makes me feel better. Or lazy.
Both.
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To complete some of the tables, and before I start sending people weird messages on social media, does anyone has the height of any of the following climbers:
Alessandro Zeni, Andrew Palmer, Enzo Oddo, Eric Albertini, Gerard Rull, Gérôme Pouvreau, James Litz, John Gaskins, Kamil Ferenc, Luis Alfonso Felix, Markus Bock, Matty Hong, Sean Bailey, Shawn Raboutou, Silvio Reffo, Stefano Carnati, Toru Nakajima, and Tristan Chen
or the exact birthday of any of the following
--------------------------
Climber Born
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Alessandro Zeni 1991
Bernabé Fernández 1974
Eric Albertini 1986
Gerard Rull 1988
Jakub Konecny 1999
Kamil Ferenc 1991
Stefano Carnati 1998
Tristan Chen 1996
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For the second quarter of 2019.
Name Grade Climber Date Note
-------------------- ------- ------------------- ------------ ----------------------------------
Move 9b/+ Sébastien Bouin 2019-06-17
Fight or Flight 9b Piotr Schab 2019-04-26
La Planta de Shiva 9b Jonathan Siegrist 2019-05-05
La Planta de Shiva 9b Jorge Diaz-Rullo 2019-05-28
Mamichula 9b Sébastien Bouin 2019-04-15
El bon combat 9a+/b Felipe Camargo 2019-04-19 Suggests 9b
No Pain No Gain 9a+ Jonatan Flor 2019-06-03 Exact date unknown to me
Papichulo 9a+ Sébastien Bouin 2019-04-18
Sweet Neuf 9a+ Cedric Lachat 2019-06-21 Not exact date. tentatively 9a/+
(Scroll down in the yellow box to see all ascents)
Anything missing?
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Seb pretty dominant there. Odd to see a list like that without Ondra.
Didn't Sachi Amma do something hard recently?
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Scrub that, he did stoking the fire, but at the and of march.
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Seb pretty dominant there. Odd to see a list like that without Ondra.
Olympics I guess, but still two routes ≥ 9b in three months is good going by anyone's standard...
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Jorge Díaz-Rullo has done the 17th repeat of Biographie, 9a+
Biographie is his 5th route ≥9a+ after Ali Hulk (extension), Panorama (FA), Circo Iberico (FA), and La Planta de Shiva.
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Jonatan Flor has done one of the harder Ali Hulk thingies in Rodellar at 9a+
https://www.desnivel.com/escalada-roca/jonatan-flor-encadena-ali-hulk-extension-total-9a-en-rodellar/
Flor has previously done Daniel Fuertes 9a+ "No Pain No Gain", also in Rodellar.
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Jonatan Flor has added the sitstart of Ali Hulk (sit start) to Ali Hulk (extension total) to make it Ali Hulk (extension total sit start) at 9b. This is his first 9b after having done two 9a+s (Ali Hulk (extension total) and No Pain No Gain). Source: https://fanatic-climbing.com/premier-9b-pour-jonatan-flor-first-9b-by-jonatan-flor/
There are twenty climbers having claimed 9b ascents (Fred Rouhling, Jonatan Flor, Dani Andrada, Magnus Midtbø, Adam Ondra, Alexander Megos, Chris Sharma, Jakob Schubert, Sachi Amma, Matty Hong, Piotr Schab, Stefano Ghisolfi, Ethan Pringle, Jonathan Siegrist, Pirmin Bertle, Daniel Woods, Angela Eiter, Jorge Diaz-Rullo, Sébastien Bouin and Steve McClure)
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Hugo Parmentier has done his first 9a+ with “La Moustache qui Fâche”, in Entraygues. La Moustache qui Fâche was first ascended by young prodigy Enzo Oddo in 2011, and has previously been repeated by Stefano Ghisolfi in 2011.
Source: https://www.grimper.com/news-hugo-parmentier-coche-premier-9a-entraygues
There are currently 85 climbers who have claimed ascents of 9a+ or harder
Climber Routes
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Adam Ondra 59
Chris Sharma 20
Alexander Megos 17
Stefano Ghisolfi 15
Sachi Amma 14
Ramón Julián Puigblanqué 13
Jakob Schubert 12
Jonathan Siegrist 10
Sébastien Bouin 10
Piotr Schab 9
Dani Andrada 5
Daniel Woods 5
Iker Pou 5
Jorge Díaz-Rullo 5
Magnus Midtbø 5
Pirmin Bertle 5
Edu Marin 4
Enzo Oddo 4
Gérôme Pouvreau 4
Jon Cardwell 4
Matty Hong 4
Patxi Usobiaga 4
Cédric Lachat 3
Fred Rouhling 3
Jonatan Flor 3
Klemen Becan 3
Margo Hayes 3
Bernabé Fernández 2
Daniel Jung 2
Dave Graham 2
David Firnenburg 2
Ethan Pringle 2
Felipe Camargo 2
Felix Neumärker 2
Gonzalo Larrocha 2
Jernej Kruder 2
Markus Bock 2
Mateusz Haladaj 2
Sean Bailey 2
Stefano Carnati 2
Steve McClure 2
Alessandro Zeni 1
Alexander Huber 1
Anak Verhoeven 1
Andreas Bindhammer 1
Andrew Palmer 1
Angela Eiter 1
Arthur Kubista 1
Baptiste Dherbilly 1
Cedric Lachat 1
Dai Koyamada 1
Daniel Fuertes 1
Danilo Pereyra 1
David Gambús 1
Dimitri Sharafutdinov 1
Domen Skofic 1
Eric Albertini 1
Gabriele Moroni 1
Gerard Rull 1
Hugo Parmentier 1
Jacopo Larcher 1
Jakub Konecny 1
James Litz 1
Jan Hojer 1
John Gaskins 1
Kamil Ferenc 1
Loïc Zehani 1
Luis Alfonso Felix 1
Mathieu Bouyoud 1
Mike Foley 1
Pablo Barbero 1
Paul Robinson 1
Roland Hemetzberger 1
Said Belhaj 1
Sangwon Son 1
Shawn Raboutou 1
Silvio Reffo 1
Stefan Schibli 1
Sylvain Millet 1
Tomas Ravanal 1
Tommy Caldwell 1
Toru Nakajima 1
Tristan Chen 1
Vasya Vorotnikov 1
Yuji Hirayama 1
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What became of Enzo Oddo? Another future beast no longer in the future.
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He became tall?
(Last time I read something was in 2017 when it was said (by Kevin Aglaé e.g.) that he was still very strong and climbed exceptionally well on long routes, and that he really disliked climbing media.)
For those who can stomach climbing gossip (and who cannot?), see comments to this: https://www.facebook.com/argrimpol/photos/a.1545558352126728/1846078702074690/
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What a shame, I guess he finds the 'fame' side of top end climbing hard to deal with. i remember seeing him in 2012 at Gorges du Loup trying to do a sit start to Punt X, an already desparate 9a, (like trying to link Keen Roof into Evo or summat).
Maybe he should take a leaf ouf of Ondra's book:
www.youtube.com/watch?v=PctwmQobu2E (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PctwmQobu2E)
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Jonatan Flor has added the sitstart of Ali Hulk (sit start) to Ali Hulk (extension total) to make it Ali Hulk (extension total sit start) at 9b. This is his first 9b after having done two 9a+s (Ali Hulk (extension total) and No Pain No Gain). Source: https://fanatic-climbing.com/premier-9b-pour-jonatan-flor-first-9b-by-jonatan-flor/
Repeated by Jorge Díaz-Rullo the day after. https://www.instagram.com/p/B0oYkbGHv8I/
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The average height of the 67 9a+ climbers that I have this information for is now 173 cm. I lack reliable data on 18/85 climbers who have reported an 9a+ ascent.
(https://i.imgur.com/7y1hNlG.png)
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Jonathan Guadalcazar has done his first 9a+, Viaje Morfo, a link-up between Viaje Astral and Morfologi in Tarbena.
Spain now has 15 climbers who have claimed a 9a+ ascent, while USA has 17 and Germany 10.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B05XYUGIwYW/
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A flurry of 9b first ascents the last fortnight
Name Grade First.Ascensionist FA.date Area
---------------------------- ------- -------------------- ------------ ----------
La Rage d'Adam 9b/+ Sébastien Bouin 2019-09-04 Verdon
Apocalipsis de la Gioconda 9b Jonatan Flor 2019-08-26 Rodellar
Patanics 9b Jorge Díaz-Rullo 2019-08-26 Rodellar
These climbers have claimed an ascent of 9b or harder
Climber No of routes
1 Adam Ondra 23
2 Chris Sharma 7
3 Stefano Ghisolfi 6
4 Jakob Schubert 4
5 Alexander Megos 3
6 Jorge Díaz-Rullo 3
7 Sachi Amma 3
8 Sébastien Bouin 3
9 Dani Andrada 2
10 Jonatan Flor 2
11 Jonathan Siegrist 2
12 Angela Eiter 1
13 Daniel Woods 1
14 Ethan Pringle 1
15 Fred Rouhling 1
16 Magnus Midtbø 1
17 Matty Hong 1
18 Piotr Schab 1
19 Pirmin Bertle 1
20 Steve McClure 1
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Ondra has made the second ascent of Qui in Tyrol. Graded 9a by FA, Ondra seems to suggest 9a/+.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B2qyzpGp3Le/?igshid=hfsdjqvfib6x
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Ondra has made the second ascent of Qui in Tyrol. Graded 9a by FA, Ondra seems to suggest 9a/+.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B2qyzpGp3Le/?igshid=hfsdjqvfib6x
9a/+ doesn't quite cut it. Also, I did not quite understand from that post + article in Grimper how much breakage affects the grade.
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Loïc Zehani (17 years) has done his project in, Orgon, adding a harder exit version of his own route “Le Poisson pilote” 9a+ to create “Obsession” 9b.
https://fanatic-climbing.com/loic-zehani-propose-obsession-9b-loic-zehani-proposes-obsession-9b/
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What's with the drilled holds? From a previous era?
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I think the thinking goes a bit along the lines that virtually the rest of Orgon is drilled so what's a few drilled pockets between friends on this new one. A retrograde step IMO. (Its not clear whether these drilled holds are new or old.)
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I have asked around. Apparently the drilled pockets is not the only thing that is controversial about this ascent. Unless irrefutable proof of him having the required level for 9b appears I will strike Zehani from the list.
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Cedric Lachat has joined the La Rambla club, conveniently allowing him and his harem to leave early and letting us to take over their penthouse suite.
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Anak Verhoven has repeated Joe Mama in Oliana, a route that apparently has gotten more solid in the grade (9a+) since a hold broke on top.
https://www.grimper.com/news-joe-mama-9a-anak-verhoeven
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This her second of the grade isn't it?
Ig post with some details in English :
https://www.instagram.com/p/B4kQ00OD6yP/?igshid=vip4yf5suwhx
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This her second of the grade isn't it?
yup. She did the FA of Sweet Neuf in Presles which is unrepeated (unless the Dark Horse of Provence hasn't climbed it)
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I have the following ascents for September, October and the first week of November:
Name Grade Climber Date Note
---------------------------- ------- ------------------ ------------ --------------------------------------
La Rage d'Adam 9b/+ Sébastien Bouin 2019-09-04
Ali Hulk (extension total) 9a+ Alex Garriga 2019-09-28
Following the Leader 9a+ Jorge Díaz-Rullo 2019-10-16 Claims 9a+/b after breakage
Patanics 9b Sébastien Bouin 2019-10-30 Says 9a+ or 9a/a+
La Rambla 9a+ Cedric Lachat 2019-11-01
Joe Mama 9a+ Anak Verhoeven 2019-11-07 More solid 9a+ after recent breakage
No Pain No Gain 9a+ Sébastien Bouin 2019-11-07 3 attempts, says 9a
I have been very busy, so it's likely that I've missed stuff.
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Ondra thought Qui was closer to 9a+ in its current state, not enough to get him on the list?
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I thought Lachat repeated Sweet Neuf?
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I thought Lachat repeated Sweet Neuf?
That was end of june I believe. ed: whoops, just seen you meant in reference to it being unrepeated.
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I thought Lachat repeated Sweet Neuf?
Ahh... yes your right. My brain is suffering from dystrophy with all the mindless work.
I even have it listed here https://github.com/JonasWiklund/Hard-Ascents/blob/master/HardAscents.csv
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Sindre Sæther, the Romsdal local and madcap who freed The Arch Wall on the Troll wall has joined the 5.15 club with a repeat of Chilam Bilam, 9a/b.
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A newcomer to the list and a second of the grade:
Cody Roth: https://www.climbing.com/people/cody-roth-the-undercover-5-15-crusher-following-his-own-path/
Anak Verhoeven: https://www.grimper.com/news-joe-mama-9a-anak-verhoeven
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A newcomer to the list and a second of the grade:
Cody Roth: https://www.climbing.com/people/cody-roth-the-undercover-5-15-crusher-following-his-own-path/
Me, I eat dust was widely reported as 9a and is in a secret location in Texas. At some point it must have gotten upgraded by someone to 5.15a? As Rock & Ice (and Climbing Magazine) seems to have an editorial policy of adding half a grade to the guidebook grade for every route they mention I'm very sceptical. Unless it got upgraded by a repeater I'm not sure it belongs on a list of 9a+ routes? Does anyone know?
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A newcomer to the list and a second of the grade:
Cody Roth: https://www.climbing.com/people/cody-roth-the-undercover-5-15-crusher-following-his-own-path/
Me, I eat dust was widely reported as 9a and is in a secret location in Texas. At some point it must have gotten upgraded by someone to 5.15a? As Rock & Ice (and Climbing Magazine) seems to have an editorial policy of adding half a grade to the guidebook grade for every route they mention I'm very sceptical. Unless it got upgraded by a repeater I'm not sure it belongs on a list of 9a+ routes? Does anyone know?
Longtime lurker here. I know Cody a bit from time in New Mexico. He did retroactively upgrade the route, I believe there's a post somewhere floating around on social media where he explains that.
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thx! wadded
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Seb Bouin has freed The Dream, 9b, in Albania. Not a bad year for France's best rock climber
Name Grade Area Country Date Note
---------------- ------- ----------- --------- ------------ ----------------------------------------
Pachamama 9a+ Oliana Spain 2019-03-05
Mamichula 9b Oliana Spain 2019-04-15
Papichulo 9a+ Oliana Spain 2019-04-18
Move 9b/+ Flatanger Norway 2019-06-17
La Rage d'Adam 9b/+ Verdon France 2019-09-04
Patanics 9a+ Rodellar Spain 2019-10-30 Downgraded from 9b. Says 9a+ or easier
The Dream 9b Albania 2019-12-16 Bolted by A. Ondra
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Not that many people get to do the FA of projects bolted by Ondra.
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Got to be one of the best looking really hard routes around
And what a year for Seb, anyone ever had better apart from Ondra?
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And what a year for Seb, anyone ever had better apart from Ondra?
If the criterium is number of routes ≥ 9a+ per year, this is the current standings:
Climber Year Routes
1 Adam Ondra 2017 11
2 Adam Ondra 2018 10
3 Adam Ondra 2013 9
4 Adam Ondra 2011 8
5 Sébastien Bouin 2019 7
6 Sachi Amma 2015 6
7 Adam Ondra 2016 5
8 Jorge Díaz-Rullo 2019 5
9 Stefano Ghisolfi 2017 5
10 Alexander Megos 2016 4
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Standings in a nicer format
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Climber Year N Routes
------------ ------ ---- -----------------------------------------------
Adam Ondra 2017 11 Silence (9c), Lapsus (9b), Mamichula (9b),
Move Hard (9b), One Slap (9b), Queen Line
(9b), Naturalmente (9a+), One Punch (9a+),
Pachamama (9a+), Thor's Hammer R2 (9a+),
Ultimatum (9a+)
Adam Ondra 2018 10 Disbelief (9b), Eagle 4 (9b), High Line
(9a+/b), Czech Trip (9a+), La Castagne (9a+),
Meiose (9a+), Sacrifice (9a+), Stone
Butterfly (9a+), Super Crackinette (9a+),
Underground > Pure dreaming (9a+)
Adam Ondra 2013 9 La Dura Dura (9b+), Vasil Vasil (9b+), Move
(9b/+), Fight or Flight (9b), Iron Curtain
(9b), Torture physique (9a+/b), Hellracer
(9a+), Kangoroo's Limb (9a+), Power Inverter
(9a+)
Adam Ondra 2011 8 Chaxiraxi (9b), La Capella (9b), La Planta de
Shiva (9b), Chaxi (9a+), Chilam Balam (9a+),
Obrint el sistema (9a+), Overshadow (9a+),
Perlorodka (9a+)
Sébastien 2019 7 La Rage d'Adam (9b/+), Move (9b/+), Mamichula
Bouin (9b), The Dream (9b), Pachamama (9a+),
Papichulo (9a+), Patanics (9a+)
Sachi Amma 2015 6 Fight or Flight (9b), Catxasa (9a+), Jungle
Boogie (9a+), Power Inverter (9a+), Seleccio
Anal (9a+), Tinipi (9a+)
Adam Ondra 2016 5 Robin úd (9b), Stoking the fire (9b),
Viscious circle (9a+/b), 120 Degrees (9a+),
Hyper finale (9a+)
Jorge 2019 5 Ali Hulk (extension total sit start) (9b), La
Díaz-Rullo Planta de Shiva (9b), Following the Leader
(9a+/b), Biographie/Realization (9a+),
Patanics (9a+)
Stefano 2017 5 First Round First Minute (9b), One Slap (9b),
Ghisolfi First Ley (9a+), La Rambla (9a+), One Punch
(9a+)
Alexander 2016 4 Fight Club (9b), Becoming (9a+), First Ley
Megos (9a+), Super Crackinette (9a+)
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Top ten recent climbing performances, with Ondra taking up 5 of those..
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Stefano Carnati has repeated Demencia Senil 9a+ in Margalef. His 3rd of the grade after Goldrake and Biographie https://www.planetmountain.com/it/notizie/arrampicata/stefano-carnati-fast-and-furious-demencia-senil-9a-piu-margalef.html
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Stefano Ghisolfi has done "Stoking the Fire", 9b, in Santa Linya for his 7th route 9b or harder
Name Grade Area Country Date
-------------------------- ------- ------------- --------- ------------
Lapsus 9b Andonno Italy 2015-11-02
First Round First Minute 9b Margalef Spain 2017-01-30
One Slap 9b Arco Italy 2017-11-22
La Capella 9b Siurana Spain 2018-12-01
Perfecto Mundo 9b+ Margalef Spain 2018-12-05
Queen Line 9b Arco Italy 2019-02-26
Stoking the fire 9b Santa Linya Spain 2019-12-28
Ghisolfi did the 5th known ascent of the route
Climber Gender Height Date
------------------ -------- -------- ------------
Chris Sharma M 184 2013-02-06
Adam Ondra M 185 2016-02-19
Jakob Schubert M 173 2018-01-05
Sachi Amma M 172 2019-03-25
Stefano Ghisolfi M 170 2019-12-28
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Mildly off topic, you have Sharma as 1.84m tall, where does that info come from? Just curious as I don't remember him being that tall, although the only time I've seen him in the flesh was briefly and a long time ago.
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Alas, I did a big mistake when I compiled the height of climbers, and did not include a column for the source... So I cannot check this quickly.
Wikipedia has him listed as 6 foot (183 cm), for which they have an iffy source. I have the impression that he is a bit taller than me so that doesn't seem too strange.
Lots of the data on height comes from climbers IFSC pages, and as that is self-reported the heights are likely slightly exaggerated on average. (It is well known that people are amazingly willing to fib about their height and weight.)
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Could well be correct, I just remembered thinking he was smaller than I expected! That said, he looks fairly similar in height to Ondra in this pic :
https://images.app.goo.gl/cTyXmkt8A3vPXJtL9 (https://images.app.goo.gl/cTyXmkt8A3vPXJtL9)
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Lots of the data on height comes from climbers IFSC pages, and as that is self-reported the heights are likely slightly exaggerated on average. (It is well known that people are amazingly willing to fib about their height and weight.)
Fun little anecdote from the lattice database: with the self reported heights we gather, there's a big spike in the distribution at 183cm (...=6ft)!
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Lots of the data on height comes from climbers IFSC pages, and as that is self-reported the heights are likely slightly exaggerated on average. (It is well known that people are amazingly willing to fib about their height and weight.)
Fun little anecdote from the lattice database: with the self reported heights we gather, there's a big spike in the distribution at 183cm (...=6ft)!
haha! I suppose you've seen this curiously non-normal distribution:
(https://miro.medium.com/max/976/0*ZHqkmVyBZsqG69cg.png)
https://theblog.okcupid.com/the-big-lies-people-tell-in-online-dating-a9e3990d6ae2
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Clearly short men don’t need dating sites as much.
Obvs. Yet another bit of SCIENCE outlining how hard life is for non short people. 😃
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Jonathan Guadalcázar has created a 9b by traversing the entire roof section in Crevillente. Ataxia hiperextension is an extension of Ataxia extension (9a+) which is an extension of Ataxia which is a link-up of five routes.
https://www.desnivel.com/escalada-roca/jonathan-guadalcazar-salta-al-9b-con-ataxia-hiperextension-en-crevillente/
Well, as they don't have much rock suitable for climbing in Spain, I think we have to accept this one and stuff like Ali Baba as genuine routes.
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Jonatan Flor has just repeated Jonathan Guadalcázar's Viaje Morfo in Taberna and suggest a downgrade from 9a+ to 8c. (The harshest downgrade I've heard of since Sasha Diguilians's Rolihlahla got downgraded from 9a to 8b.) Viaje Morfo is a link-up between two 9a, so that makes you wonder what's going on?
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Is Taberna an area planned for inclusion in a forthcoming Yorkshire guidebook?
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Hugo Parmentier has done his first 9b, Adam Ondra's Eagle 4 in Saint Léger du Ventoux, having only done one route 9a+ or harder before (Enzo Oddo's La Moustache qui fâche).
Cedric Lachat has done Pachamama, his 6th and hardest 9a+ so far. As he has already done Papichulo before, Mamichulo is surely on....
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Jonatan Flor has just repeated Jonathan Guadalcázar's Viaje Morfo in Taberna and suggest a downgrade from 9a+ to 8c. (The harshest downgrade I've heard of since Sasha Diguilians's Rolihlahla got downgraded from 9a to 8b.) Viaje Morfo is a link-up between two 9a, so that makes you wonder what's going on?
All, or almost all, of his hard routes of 8c+ and above are first ascents, are at only 2-3 lesser-known crags and his very hardest routes are link-ups of his own routes. Easy to lose objectivity.
Also, can Gabri Moroni get a special prize for redpointing Demencia Senil next to a creche and with some idiot trying to park a van beneath him at the same time.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=POiBrpixles (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=POiBrpixles)
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You are Spot on there Rupert. What a faff with that in the mix of a hard redpoint. Lad did well to zone in on the climbing
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Eagle 4 in Saint Léger du Ventoux
It has been pointed out to me that the route is called "Eagle-4". It's a word play. Karma to anyone who figure it out.
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You are Spot on there Rupert. What a faff with that in the mix of a hard redpoint. Lad did well to zone in on the climbing
That video sums up why I hate people and feel gutted when I turn up to the crag and someone’s there.
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Eagle 4 in Saint Léger du Ventoux
It has been pointed out to me that the route is called "Eagle-4". It's a word play. Karma to anyone who figure it out.
Something to do with pulling hard maybe?
"Tirez fort"?
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It has been pointed out to me that the route is called "Eagle-4". It's a word play. Karma to anyone who figure it out.
Something to do with pulling hard maybe?
"Tirez fort"?
4 = [fɔr] in US english ≈ [fɔʀ] fort is correct. The hyphen is called trait in French. Keep trying, took me a while. Hint: pronounce "Eagle" with the thickest french accent you can possibly imagine, then make it even thicker.
-
Intriguing. I thought a hyphen was a "tiret" in French, hence "tirez fort".
I'll have a longer think about it...😁
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Equal force or equal strength?
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4 = [fɔr] in US english ≈ [fɔʀ] fort is correct. The hyphen is called trait in French. Keep trying, took me a while. Hint: pronounce "Eagle" with the thickest french accent you can possibly imagine, then make it even thicker.
So something like ‘ee gool’ tres fort? Can’t work out what the first bit would be.
-
ego très fort?
-
You're almost there: eagle ≈ y gueule (= il gueule), thus Eagle-4 = y gueule très fort = 'e yells very loud. Genius work by Elie Morieux to give the route to Adam Ondra and then call it Eagle-4.
I admit, it took me forever to figure out, even knowing that it was a pun.
-
Well done working it out, I had an inkling it was along those lines, but failed.
Tom Et Je Ris is about my level.
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That's brilliant. I was thinking along the same lines as Pete.
Love a French pun but I need help with anything harder than Le rosé est le vin impure.
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David Firnenburg has repeated Papichulo as his third 9a+. The most repeated 9a+ routes are
Name Grade Country N
1 La Rambla 9a+ Spain 27
2 Papichulo 9a+ Spain 22
3 Biographie/Realization 9a+ France 18
4 Pachamama 9a+ Spain 9
5 Joe Mama 9a+ Spain 8
6 Catxasa 9a+ Spain 7
7 Jaws II 9a+ United States 7
8 Seleccio Anal 9a+ Spain 7
9 Ali Hulk (extension) 9a+ Spain 6
10 Chilam Balam 9a+ Spain 6
11 Corona 9a+ Germany 6
12 First Ley 9a+ Spain 6
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Hugo Parmentier has done his first 9b, Adam Ondra's Eagle 4 in Saint Léger du Ventoux, having only done one route 9a+ or harder before (Enzo Oddo's La Moustache qui fâche).
Interview on Fanatic climbing (http://fanatic-climbing.com/interview-hugo-parmentier-revient-sur-eagle-4-9b-hugo-parmentier-about-eagle-4-9b/)
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Jonatan Flor has just repeated Jonathan Guadalcázar's Viaje Morfo in Taberna and suggest a downgrade from 9a+ to 8c. (The harshest downgrade I've heard of since Sasha Diguilians's Rolihlahla got downgraded from 9a to 8b.) Viaje Morfo is a link-up between two 9a, so that makes you wonder what's going on?
The former prodigy Edu Marin, for one, is not impressed and blames it on social media https://www.desnivel.com/escalada-roca/edu-marin-y-la-etica-de-la-escalada/
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Seb Bouin has done Joe Mama in Oliana but doesn't seem to think it is 9a+, even after breakage.
-
The trimestrial update of https://github.com/JonasWiklund/Hard-Ascents/blob/master/HardAscents.csv
How tall is Will Bosi?
-
No, I think that list is just pulled from 99boulders.com as stated, as it mixes routes and traverses, has no dates for the ascents and use non-french approved grades.
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How tall is Will Bosi?
Haven't measured him properly but just asked Tom: "About 5ft9 [175cm]"
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Taller than your average 9a+ climber.
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Seb Bouin has done Catxasa in Santa Linya, but says that it is not 9a+ with knee pads. If so, Jakub Konecny is the only repeater of Catxasa who risks dropping out from the 9a+ club, as the other repeaters have all done lots of 9a+s or harder.
-
Are there any 9th grade routes (apart from his own and Ondra's) that Seb hasn't suggested downgrading?
-
Are there any 9th grade routes (apart from his own and Ondra's) that Seb hasn't suggested downgrading?
:lol:
Everyone else on the scene must think hes a total nobhead, constantly downgrading their hardest routes...
-
Seb Bouin has done Catxasa in Santa Linya, but says that it is not 9a+ with knee pads. If so, Jakub Konecny is the only repeater of Catxasa who risks dropping out from the 9a+ club, as the other repeaters have all done lots of 9a+s or harder.
Isn't that just willy waving?
If he's the only one suggesting a downgrade, and the others to repeat it are all well rounded at the grade and above, surely he's the one whose gradar is malfunctioning.
-
Everyone complains about soft grades, but no one wants to do anything about it
-
(https://i.imgur.com/0Y8OtWv.gif)
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(weather + rock) x cheapness ^ wads being there = Spain
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(weather + rock) x cheapness ^ wads being there = Spain = lucky bastards
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Can we change Swiss (shudder) to Switzerland? Or Schweiz, or Suisse? Or at least Swiss Confederation?
-
Yeah, and Czech to Czech republic... Sorry
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Yeah, and Czech to Czech republic... Sorry
or is it Czechia?
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Seb Bouin has done Catxasa in Santa Linya, but says that it is not 9a+ with knee pads. If so, Jakub Konecny is the only repeater of Catxasa who risks dropping out from the 9a+ club, as the other repeaters have all done lots of 9a+s or harder.
Edu Marin agrees https://www.instagram.com/p/B86qzlYKE1w/
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All the beta for Pachamama 9a+ by Cedric Lachat
https://youtu.be/Vgdd7OnOv-4
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Bastard ruined my onsight.
-
Someone will still probably give you some free shoes if you flash it.
-
Don't want shoes, I do it for personal glory.
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I'll have them then :great:
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Piotr Schab: Joe Mama
https://www.instagram.com/p/B9FW73lpU2c/?igshid=qjl7w1wo5nsv
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According to Escalar Jorge Diaz-Rouleau has also repeated "Joe Mama".
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Julia Chanourdie has done the third repeat of Alex Megos's route Supercrackinette, 9a+, in Saint-Leger-du-Ventoux and joins the quite exclusive club of female 5.15-climbers. Apart from Chanourdie, Adam Ondra (flash) and Gérome Pouvreau has also repeated the route. Not a bad list...
-
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Date Climber Name Grade Area
------------ ------------------ ------------------------ ------- ------------------------
2017-02-26 Margo Hayes La Rambla 9a+ Siurana
2017-09-24 Margo Hayes Biographie/Realization 9a+ Céüse
2017-10 Angela Eiter La Planta de Shiva 9b Villanueva del
Rosario
2019-03-22 Margo Hayes Papichulo 9a+ Oliana
2019-11-07 Anak Verhoeven Joe Mama 9a+ Oliana
2020-03-13 Julia Chanourdie Super Crackinette 9a+ Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are currently four women who have done undisputed 9a+ routes. Margo Hayes has done three, Anak Verhoven has done between none and two—depending on where Sweet Neuf (currently 9a/a+) and Joe Mama (9a or 9a+) ends up on the scale—, Angel Eiter one (9b actually), and Julia Chanourdie one.
If 9a/a+ count, Josune Beriziartu was the first with Bimbaluna in 2005 and Ashima Shirashi was the second (?) with Open your mind Direct in 2015 (with reservation that I understand nothing of what's happening in the overhanging choss pile in Santa Linya). Anak Verhoven could ad a few more to her tally as well.
For lists of hard female sends these are the only list I have found:
Up until 2015:
https://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liste_des_r%C3%A9alisations_f%C3%A9minines_en_escalade_sportive_au-dessus_du_niveau_8c
Up to right about now:
http://escalade9.wifeo.com/du-cote-des-filles.php
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Video of Julia Chanourdie climbing Super Crackinette https://www.instagram.com/p/B944QjrpnT8/
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And another one from St Leger. Hugo Parmentier on Eagle-4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GNGIkEvXZlk
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Anyone done 9a+ on their fingerboard yet???
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Anyone done 9a+ on their fingerboard yet???
Imagine the controversy when somebody repeats it but crimps a hold you are supposed to open hand!
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More than half of the year has passed, so far I have noted 18 ascents of 9a+ or harder. Five more climbers added to the list: William Bosi, Julia Chanourdie, Laura Rogora, Jose Luis Palao and Davide Picco.
Scroll down the yellow box for all ascents. Are there some I've missed? Scandals? Rumours? Is Qui really 9a+?
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Date Climber Name Grade Area Note
------------ ------------------ ------------------------ ------- ------------------------ --------------------------------------------
2020-01-18 David Firnenburg Papichulo 9a+ Oliana
2020-01-18 Hugo Parmentier Eagle 4 9b Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux
2020-01-19 Cédric Lachat Pachamama 9a+ Oliana Exact date not known.
2020-02-05 William Bosi La Capella 9b Siurana Only 3 days
2020-02-07 Cédric Lachat Joe Mama 9a+ Oliana Says easy 9a+
2020-02-07 Sébastien Bouin Joe Mama 9a+ Oliana Says 9a(+) on instagram
2020-02-09 Sébastien Bouin Catxasa 9a+ Santa Linya Says 9a with knee-pads. Edu Marin agrees.
2020-03-01 Piotr Schab Joe Mama 9a+ Oliana
2020-03-07 Jorge Díaz-Rullo Joe Mama 9a+ Oliana
2020-03-13 Julia Chanourdie Super Crackinette 9a+ Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux
2020-05 Alessandro Zeni Cryptography 9b Saint-Loup Link-up between Bain de sang and Bimbaluna
2020-05-29 Laura Rogora Pure Dreaming plus 9a+ Arco
2020-06-13 Sébastien Bouin Biographie/Realization 9a+ Céüse
2020-06-14 Jose Luis Palao Mona Lisa Integral 9a+ Rodellar
2020-06-29 Jose Luis Palao Apocalipsis de la 9a+ Rodellar Downgraded to 9a+ from 9b
Gioconda
2020-07-06 Stefano Carnati Jungle Boogie 9a+ Céüse
2020-07-11 Davide Picco Pure Dreaming plus 9a+ Arco
2020-07-13 Stefano Ghisolfi The Bow 9a+ Arco
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I have made a small website for the 9a+ list at https://semicontinuous.shinyapps.io/FiveFifteen/
If I have time and energy I will add more graphs etc. Suggestions welcome.
I have the "database", as it were on https://github.com/JonasWiklund/Hard-Ascents/blob/master/HardAscents.csv
If someone like to help me update the file more than biannually, that would be most appreciated.
Since last time, I have noted the following ascents:
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Date Climber Name Grade Area Note
------------ ------------------ ------------------- ------- ----------------- -----------------------------------------------
2020-07-25 Laura Rogora Ali Hulk 9b Rodellar
(extension total
sit start)
2020-08-05 Alexander Megos Bibliographie 9c Céüse
2020-08-16 Jorge Díaz-Rullo Las Meninas R2 9a+/b Rodellar
2020-08-18 Jorge Díaz-Rullo Apocalipsis de la 9a+ Rodellar Agrees with 9a+
Gioconda
2020-08-20 Jonatan Flor Las Meninas R2 9a+/b Rodellar
2020-08-28 Sébastien Bouin La Moustache qui 9a+ Entraygues
fâche
2020-09-01 Pierre Le Cerf Punt X 9a+ Gorges du Loup First ascent after major hold breakages
2020-09-07 Alexander Megos L'étrange ivresse 9a+ Céüse Claims 9a/b and much harder than other 9a+ at
des lenteurs Céüse
2020-09-14 Dani Fuertes Ali Hulk 9a+ Rodellar
(extension total)
2020-09-20 Dani Fuertes Ali Hulk 9b Rodellar
(extension total
sit start)
2020-09-23 Álex Garriga Seta ibérica 9a+ Cuenca
2020-09-28 Stefano Ghisolfi Change 9b+ Flatanger
2020-09-28 Jorge Díaz-Rullo El bon combat 9a+/b Cova de Suggests 9b
l'Ocell–Sant
Miquel del Fai
2020-09-28 Dave Graham Ali Hulk (fin de 9a+ Rodellar
extension total
sitstart)
2020-09-29 Dave Graham Ali Hulk 9b Rodellar
(extension total
sit start)
2020-09-29 Hyunbin Min Soul Rock Dance 9b 'Near Seoul' FA previously hardest route 9a.
2020-09-30 Enrique Gallardo Ali Hulk 9a+ Rodellar
(extension)
2020-10-06 Dani Fuertes Ali Hulk (fin de 9a+ Rodellar
extension total
sitstart)
2020-10-11 Anatole Bosio Aubade directe 9a+ Montagne
Sainte-Victoire
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Did I miss something? Was there maybe a linkup in the Ali Baba cave that evaded my extreme enthusiasm for link-ups?
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Should the boulder problem starts to routes really count? [/grumpy old man]
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If someone managed one of the hard links with bolted top-outs in Parisellas - say Dorsal Stream into the bolted finish of Bonnie Extension at 9a+ - then I’d say it was relevant.
So yes.
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I have the "database", as it were on https://github.com/JonasWiklund/Hard-Ascents/blob/master/HardAscents.csv
If someone like to help me update the file more than biannually, that would be most appreciated.
I'll keep an eye out, though Im not so up to date with stuff outside the UK. What's the best way to contribute? Pull request on github?
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I have the "database", as it were on https://github.com/JonasWiklund/Hard-Ascents/blob/master/HardAscents.csv
If someone like to help me update the file more than biannually, that would be most appreciated.
I'll keep an eye out, though Im not so up to date with stuff outside the UK. What's the best way to contribute? Pull request on github?
I added you as a contributor (assuming you are bourbonspecial who owns the UK lists).
Posting on this thread helps a bit as well. Normally I just read through Desnivel and Grimper and hope that they haven't missed anything. I'm not sure it will work in the future though... grimper don't recon 9a+ ascents are significant if they are not done by women, children or frenchmen.
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I added you as a contributor (assuming you are bourbonspecial who owns the UK lists).
Thanks :great:
How attached are you to the IDs on each row? Im finding it quite tricky to edit the file with them included (I tried the program linked in the README but struggling to get it to work, probably me being stupid, I couldnt work out how to add a new line...)
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Carlo Traversi has done the first ascent of a 9a+ called Empath in Tahoe
https://www.instagram.com/p/CGYCIwUlPdt/
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I added you as a contributor (assuming you are bourbonspecial who owns the UK lists).
Thanks :great:
How attached are you to the IDs on each row? Im finding it quite tricky to edit the file with them included (I tried the program linked in the README but struggling to get it to work, probably me being stupid, I couldnt work out how to add a new line...)
the key field (first column) is just there because of lazy programming in R. you can put whatever there. or blank.
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Carlo Traversi has done the first ascent of a 9a+ called Empath in Tahoe
https://www.instagram.com/p/CGYCIwUlPdt/
thx!
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Anatole Bosiohas climbed Aubade direct 9a+ at Sainte-Victoire, France
https://fanatic-climbing.com/troisieme-ascension-daubade-direct-9a-par-anatole-bosio-anatole-bosio-claims-third-ascent-of-aubade-direct-9a/
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Jonathan Siegrest has put up a new 9a+ https://www.8a.nu/crags/sportclimbing/united-states/5g/sectors/white-wall-sector/routes/nu-world
He's said 9a+/b for him but put 9a+ on 8a.nu, so I guess 9a+ is closer to the mark.
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Carlo Traversi has done the first ascent of a 9a+ called Empath in Tahoe
https://www.instagram.com/p/CGYCIwUlPdt/
Jimmy Webb has repeated it:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CGiHBPpMcVO/?igshid=lz2qyeqgv18o
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Daniel woods has nipped in for another repeat of Empath https://www.instagram.com/p/CGpuWvtFF22/?igshid=1okh44q8mr2sw
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After having done his first 9a+ (Aubade directe) just a forthnight ago, Anatole Bosio has done his second 9a+ with Supercrackinette in Saint-Léger-du-Ventoux.
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Seb Bouin, the world's strongest proponent of slash grades, has made the first ascent of “Beyond Integral” (9b/+), a project Fedric Ferraro bolted in Pic Saint Loup.
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Fucking hate slash grades.
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Ye/ah, m/e to/o.
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Wasn't there a problem in North Wales that got given V8/+/9 or something?
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I see Nathaniel Coleman has joined the Empath crew, fastest 4 ascents of a new 9a+?!
https://www.instagram.com/p/CGwW26ADg9K/?igshid=ji4auyznovhh
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More ascents than Biographie during a spell with the Mistral blowing in June, or a longer line than at the base of La Rambla on a crispy February afternoon 🤨
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Wasn't there a problem in North Wales that got given V8/+/9 or something?
The old North Wales guide used to have a V8+ guide to compensate for a perceived asynchrony between the V and font systems (V8 = font 7b; V8+ = font 7b+; V9 = font 7c).
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I see Nathaniel Coleman has joined the Empath crew, fastest 4 ascents of a new 9a+?!
https://www.instagram.com/p/CGwW26ADg9K/?igshid=ji4auyznovhh
previously fastest 4 ascents of a 9a+ or harder, days between the 4 ascents closest in time:
Name V1
1: La Rambla 39 days
2: Papichulo 104 days
3: Joe Mama 121 days
4: Biographie/Realization 385 days
5: Ali Hulk (extension total sit start) 428 days
6: Seleccio Anal 460 days
7: Catxasa 761 days
8: Pachamama 792 days
9: First Ley 850 days
10: Power Inverter 1809 days
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The limitations of keeping the data in a flat table is driving me nuts. Are there any good free online sql servers where I could store this tiny dataset?
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More ascents than Biographie during a spell with the Mistral blowing in June, or a longer line than at the base of La Rambla on a crispy February afternoon 🤨
Secret venue, Mellow gang handshake to gain access.
Chin scratch.
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The limitations of keeping the data in a flat table is driving me nuts. Are there any good free online sql servers where I could store this tiny dataset?
Perhaps an sqlite database could work? and if you want to make it available via github still you can set it up so you can get nice diffs still https://stackoverflow.com/questions/13271643/git-hook-for-diff-sqlite-table
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The limitations of keeping the data in a flat table is driving me nuts. Are there any good free online sql servers where I could store this tiny dataset?
Perhaps an sqlite database could work? and if you want to make it available via github still you can set it up so you can get nice diffs still https://stackoverflow.com/questions/13271643/git-hook-for-diff-sqlite-table
Been thinking about this a bit more and the above solution would be a bit questy I reckon.
I haven't used them before but these people offer a free tier for postgresql hosting https://www.elephantsql.com/plans.html AWS has a 12 month free trial that includes a database server, and Google cloud platform gives you $300 credit when you sign up which would be enough for ~30 months of free usage on their smallest postgresql instance.
For managing the data, I thought a straightforward option could be to keep an SQL script in the git repo that tears down and rebuilds the database each time. Kind of funny as you'd be effectively storing all the data in the SQL file, bit given it's only a few hundred lines it'd be fine, and would make it nice and easy for other people to use (no need to worry about shared database access).
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I got keen and set this up :) I've pushed the script for creating the db to github.
jwi, have you got whatsapp or similar so I can send you login details for the database server?
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Yeah, I was thinking along the same lines. Added a tab for climbers to https://semicontinuous.shinyapps.io/FiveFifteen/
I would like to keep a record on the height of climbers, as well as their gender and nationality, but I am not at all sure that this would be compliant with GDPR
I got keen and set this up :) I've pushed the script for creating the db to github.
jwi, have you got whatsapp or similar so I can send you login details for the database server?
very cool! I look in to this when I have more time.... busy days trying to convert my classes to online classes while trying to get in some climbing before being locked in for a month again....
You have a PM
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I would like to keep a record on the height of climbers, as well as their gender and nationality, but I am not at all sure that this would be compliant with GDPR
Looks like if you contact the individuals where possible you would be ok with this. An interesting read on the topic here
https://www.gerrishlegal.com/legal-blog/2019/7/2/processing-publicly-available-data-what-are-your-obligations
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Seb Berthe has done supercrackinette, 9a+, at Saint-Léger
http://fanatic-climbing.com/seb-berthe-empoche-supercrackinette-9a-supercrackinette-9a-by-seb-berthe/
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Jonathan Flor has done Planta de Shiva, 9b. https://www.desnivel.com/escalada-roca/jonatan-flor-ha-sido-un-sueno-poder-hacer-la-planta-de-shiva-9b