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the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: Scraggadoo on October 06, 2009, 10:47:05 pm

Title: Finger niggles (not an injury - I think..?)
Post by: Scraggadoo on October 06, 2009, 10:47:05 pm
After a period of climbing regularly I find that I get stronger with certain grip types (i.e. crimp, half crimp, open handed etc no surprise there really) but I also notice that when I apply force to the side of my fingers, they're sometimes a bit too weak (weaker than normal) and hurts if I lift something too heavy.

It's rather difficult to explain but put it this way - give someone the thumbs up.  Now grab something horizontal with your hand in the same position (fingers slightly extended, not fully closed) and thumb presses down on top to grip the item.  Lift and sometimes my finger hurts.  Obviously in normal direction (face on to palm) there isn't any pain.

I'm just wondering what your experiences are, it would be good to know if I'm pushing things a little far or if this is par for the course?

Ta

PS climb up to 6c sport (have got on one or two 7as) and boulder font 6b approx
Title: Re: Finger niggles (not an injury - I think..?)
Post by: GCW on October 06, 2009, 10:50:51 pm
Not quite sure about your description, but is this a collateral problem?
Title: Re: Finger niggles (not an injury - I think..?)
Post by: Scraggadoo on October 06, 2009, 11:00:53 pm
Not quite sure about your description, but is this a collateral problem?

Sorry to be dumb here but what do you mean?  I realise it is quite difficult to explain - fingers feel tweaky when pushed side to side?
Title: Re: Finger niggles (not an injury - I think..?)
Post by: GCW on October 06, 2009, 11:03:58 pm
Yeah, may be a collateral ligament strain.
Title: Re: Finger niggles (not an injury - I think..?)
Post by: Scraggadoo on October 06, 2009, 11:07:02 pm
Ta, I'll just google that now or rummage through the threads to find out what that is!

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