UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: clgladiator on September 14, 2009, 11:55:42 pm
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Im about to start at sheffield uni and want to take this opportunity to get strong! I was wondering which is the better wall for training both bouldering and routes, the works or the foundry.
I know the foundry has their 40 degree training board and lead walls, but the works has the systems board. Im leaning towards the works due to the systems board after reading the moon training articles.
Just wondered what the more knowledgeable people on here thought!
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Well The Works has circuits for working endurance but no roped climbing at all so you won't be able to get big swooping falls when you miss a clip.
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(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_hHUxIaScvcE/SaPbRllM9wI/AAAAAAAAAB8/w7iXLGi2oy0/s400/cat-pigeons-web.jpg)
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Broomgrove rd, all the way!!
Brick edges, cool as ice, sheltered from rain, doesn't cost a penny and way, way better than Edge, Works, Foundry, Matrix etc. ;)
I would have said Crewe Flats if they still existed. What's good enough for Steve Mac is good enough for me.
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You have plenty of choice and at least 3 years there - so just try them all and see which one you like the most!!
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Im about to start at sheffield uni and want to take this opportunity to get strong! I was wondering which is the better wall for training both bouldering and routes, the works or the foundry.
As a student you may discover that cost becomes a bigger priority in which case the Matrix will be the venue of choice. You can use what is available at most venues to meet your training needs with a bit of imagination.
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Shirley, any self respecting student needs one of these ::)
Chairmen of the board (http://www.vimeo.com/2795225)
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Krank is on the money I reckon. If you go to the Works there will be a man called a Dense Loner who will prevent you from getting inside any of the mono's at any hour of any given day and hence you'll remain a punter forever. Best make your own ;)
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foundry is only £4.50 for students. and unlike the matrix you won't get weaker climbing there
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How about this for a novel idea?
You take advantage of Sheffield's close proximity to tons and tons of real rock and go outdoors for the cost of getting to the crag :shrug:
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How about this for a novel idea?
You take advantage of Sheffield's close proximity to tons and tons of real rock and go outdoors for the cost of getting to the crag :shrug:
What is this 'outside' you speak of? I think students should get down to some of the best walls in the country
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go outdoors
FFS Slackers! He said he wanted to get strong, not enjoy himself :rtfm:
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go outdoors
FFS Slackers! He said he wanted to get strong, not enjoy himself :rtfm:
I'd love to be able to train outdoors, looks like a bit of a trek though? What with the only stuff that stays dry being the limestone (is this right?)
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I'd love to be able to train outdoors, looks like a bit of a trek though? What with the only stuff that stays dry being the limestone (is this right?)
Yes that's right. The grit takes about a week to dry out, which is a shame cos it's the best stuff for getting strong. Limestone is for foot-faggots with technique. Strength is a waste of time on Limestone, but at least it's totally dry over the Winter, as it's not prone to seepage at all. Not like the Grit.
Now swap everything I said, for the opposite, and you'll be close to the mark.
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You are right. Although there are plenty of hours of good bouldering weather most months; if you want to keep to a strict schedule, you will have to either crawl around under small bits of lime or go indoors.
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guess im gonna have to hop on my bike :o then and go try out the walls from a training point of view though my sad training tendancies are leaning me towards the works and that lovely looking systems board. Im sure my elbows and fingers wont thank me though, thats if i make it through freshers without becoming morbidly obese :pissed:
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leaning me towards the works .... morbidly obese
They still let me in The Works when I was* obese, so even fresher's week shouldn't stop you.
*Jasper thinks I still am
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If you have a bike, it takes 45min to get to stanage from hunter's bar. That's what I used to do when I was a student (head torch comes in handy for winter). I now live 10mins ride from Bell Hagg, but find the 20 min ride to the works more inspiring. Sorry if this post reeks of smug self righteousness. :-[
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Make sure you set off early in the morning to get to Stanage
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And you only need to take a karrimat with you (so as to avoid wind resistance)
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Make sure you set off early in the morning to get to Stanage
Any particular time you have in mind there Dylan or is it proportional to the grade of the problem that you are trying? ;)
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The earlier the better afaik, just as long as you get there well before theres enough light for you to be visible to the naked eye
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And make sure you have a passing Spaniard to spot you, or was it a Spaniel?
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I've heard that Spaniards have good night vision.
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Yes, but they cannot use a computer to back you up, so what point them even being there?
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I've heard that Spaniards have good night vision.
Like Ramirez de Sanchez (unless of course, you cut his head off)
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If you have a bike, it takes 45min to get to stanage from hunter's bar. That's what I used to do when I was a student (head torch comes in handy for winter). I now live 10mins ride from Bell Hagg, but find the 20 min ride to the works more inspiring. Sorry if this post reeks of smug self righteousness. :-[
I actually cycled to stanage the other day and it took me 2 hrs silly weak legs :-[ (only 1/2 hour to get back though ;D ), i was a bit disappointed by Bell Hagg its filthy. I might give cycling to the works a try, at least i wont have to take my highball lol.
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You had good weather, I got soaked last time I was riding out to Stanage to climb and gave up at the Sportsman pub :beer1:
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How about this for a novel idea?
You take advantage of Sheffield's close proximity to tons and tons of real rock and go outdoors for the cost of getting to the crag :shrug:
Where's the fun in that?
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You had good weather, I got soaked last time I was riding out to Stanage to climb and gave up at the Sportsman pub :beer1:
I stopped there as well.... to fill up my water bottle, where is your dedication :P
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You had good weather, I got soaked last time I was riding out to Stanage to climb and gave up at the Sportsman pub :beer1:
I stopped there as well.... to fill up my water bottle, where is your dedication :P
The water bottle I drank from had alcohol in it!
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You had good weather, I got soaked last time I was riding out to Stanage to climb and gave up at the Sportsman pub :beer1:
I stopped there as well.... to fill up my water bottle, where is your dedication :P
The water bottle I drank from had alcohol in it!
PROPS +1