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news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread
« Last post by Wellsy on Today at 10:52:41 am »
One thing I find very appealing about the trad grading system is how it incorporated the difficulty, the exposure, the security, the danger etc

I think that font grades are let down by only considering the physical difficulty (opinions differ on whether they consider the technical difficulty bit honestly as far as I can tell they don't).

I'd love it if we had a bouldering grade system which incorporated other elements.
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get involved: access, environment, BMC / Re: 180k cragx Mill Bridge
« Last post by Dingdong on Today at 10:47:05 am »
Don't mind me, just gonna periodically drop in here and leave articles proving that water companies such as Yorkshire Water are polluting our waterways and getting away with paying insignificant fines whilst paying their shareholders dividends.

https://www.theguardian.com/environment/article/2024/may/09/englands-rivers-to-remain-in-poor-state-as-eu-laws-ignored-post-brexit-says-watchdog
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news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread
« Last post by andy popp on Today at 10:22:24 am »
I have no real idea about what's actually being debated here. But I'm not going to let that stop me from weighing in ...

I think Northern yob and JB might feel a particularly strong identification with being a "British trad climber," steeped in the culture, history and yes, the grading system of it. They grew up, if I'm guesstimating their ages correctly, in the glory days of British trad

That's me, in age, much more than JB and NY (is NY Jason Pickles? If so, I've only just realised). Both tech and E grades were very new and still being worked out when I started. They emerged as elaborations on the existing system, itself a product of earlier elaborations, in order to give a fuller picture of the difficulties and character of a given route. It's just struck me that it's as much about the character bit as it is about the difficulty bit: not only hard is something, but also what is it like. That's a question that is much more relevant to the kind of trad found in Britain than, say, on most sport climbing. I'm not saying British trad is completely unique but it has particular qualities that are reflected in the grading system that evolved to describe it (and, again, I think a grade is a description as much as it is some kind of ranking device).

So, the grading system was never really "designed" but evolved alongside climbing's evolution. And for the most I always found it incredibly fit for purpose, flexible and nuanced. Difficulties at the top end are probably as much about the difficulty of grading at the top end under any system as they are about faults of this specific system.

Anyway, like I said, I've not really been able to work out what is actually at stake in this thread, so who knows.
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music, art and culture / Re: RIP
« Last post by andy popp on Today at 09:58:14 am »
https://www.theguardian.com/music/article/2024/may/08/steve-albini-obituary
Steve Albini

This is what I was going to post yesterday evening when I saw the news about Adam. Albini was a titan for both his own bands and his production work.
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chuffing / Re: Historical Nuggets
« Last post by SA Chris on Today at 09:39:27 am »
Read Tears of the Dawn if you haven't, great book.

He's done so much hard scary stuff, Remontado E6 6a onsight, solo (churn that, E Graders!) in Coire Sputan Dearg sounds especially horrifying from the description, and a long long way from any rescuers. And no mobile coverage in that part of Cairngorms back when it was done..
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chuffing / Re: Historical Nuggets
« Last post by remus on Today at 09:23:19 am »
I was digging through some SMC journals (which are all freely available via the SMC website, what a resource!) and found a couple of great write ups about a couple of Julian Lines' harder things, in particular Icon of Lust (https://simrich.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/SMCJ/Number%20197%20-%20Vol%2039%20-%202006%20Reduced.pdf) and Margathea (https://simrich.ams3.digitaloceanspaces.com/SMCJ/Number%20208%20%E2%80%93%20Vol%2045%20-%202017%20website.pdf). Gripping bits of writing.
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news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread
« Last post by Hoseyb on Today at 09:10:06 am »
I quite like the french use of obligatory ( 7b(6c+ obl) for that. Letting you know you can frig it 😁
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