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the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: TobyD on February 21, 2016, 09:52:00 am
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I couldn't see a recent thread for this so... I often find that bad skin is almost the main limiting factor in my climbing. I have dry skin that seems to get thick and crack, despite regular careful sanding and moisturising. I use chalk without drying agents (Moon or block, usually). It's manageable a lot of the time, but climbing in the cold seems to absolutely nail it in a very short space of time; I get cracks on non-climbing surfaces of fingers, and then end up limiting training as if I'm going to climb at all I need to put a lot of tape on.
Does anyone have any genius knowledge? I've tried most of the usual moisturising products (8 hour cream, climb on, cocoa butter, shea butter...) as well as vitamin E. Not yet tried climbskin, or prescription steroid cream. Any contribution much appreciated! T
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Simond (Decathlon) chalk... Moon stuff makes mine a bit too dry...
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I've been using climbskin for about a year, it's good in that it absorbs quickly and doesn't leave the skin greasy - so you can use it before, during, after climbing. Hard to tell if it actually makes a difference compared to other products like climbon etc. Worth trying though.
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What ^ petejh said.
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When its cold, your skin is stiffer. Whilst this gives you better grip on grit as the skin deforms less - this probably also makes it more likely to split and crack (rather than bend and flex).
How many of you try and keep your hands dry when washing e.g. use rubber gloves when washing up or in the bath/shower etc...? I never really do this (only do this if I have a weeping split or flapper) - and generally have pretty good skin.. wonder how widespread this is - or if it helps or makes things worse...
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I came across the KletterRetter hand cream a couple of months ago and it works very well for me in softening the skin and preventing as well as curing cracks.
For me personally it works better than ClimbOn, which I've used before.
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I have this problem due to eczema on my right hand. Wash the chalk off as soon as you can - I do this in a stream or wet grass if I can feel the skin has been irritated. As you say this is much worse in the cold. When you aren't climbing keep the warm - take gloves for the walk-in.
The only moisturiser I use is Neutrogena Norwegian formula unscented (red top). By fas the best IME.
Steroid cream works amazingly once or twice, then I find the eczema comes back worse, so I don't use it.
Cracks are incredibly painful. Often infection is what stops them healing. I use savlon or tcp, then glue them up with superglue. The glue works wonders, instant pain relief. Again cold is the issue with cracking so keep them warm.
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The only moisturiser I use is Neutrogena Norwegian formula unscented (red top). By fas the best IME.
I got a tube of this for Xmas and am pretty impressed so far...
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I get eczema too, and I find the steroid cream works really well at getting rid of the inflammation, but it's a last resort as my skin goes to shit (for climbing purposes) once I've used it. Put some baby wipes in your climbing kit and spend as little time chalked up as possible is the only thing I've found that helps, beyond what you've already said you're doing.
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I have this problem due to eczema on my right hand. Wash the chalk off as soon as you can - I do this in a stream or wet grass if I can feel the skin has been irritated. As you say this is much worse in the cold. When you aren't climbing keep the warm - take gloves for the walk-in.
I don't have eczema - but also wash my hands as soon(ish) as I can after climbing. Whether in a brook - or using a bottle of water I usually keep in the back of the car for this... I'm normally an hour or so's drive from home so it stops them starting to itch a little on the way back.
Decathlon chalk is the best though...
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For me, of the goops suitable for use during the working day, the best of the bunch is probably Lotil:
https://www.boots.com/en/Lotil-Original-Cream-114ml_865711/ (https://www.boots.com/en/Lotil-Original-Cream-114ml_865711/)
It's not too pricey, sinks in well, keeps the skin soft, and helps heal little cuts / cracked skin - it's sold in Boots - among the dermatological / eczema stuff (rather than the more "cosmetic" creams... which shows how good it is...it's goddamm medicine, not make-up!).
For overnight use, I personally like Elizabeth Arden 8 hr (the proper pink, smelly stuff - not the white, less smelling medicinal cream that's confusingly sold under the same name). Though, as you have already tried that and found it wanting, something else that might be worth a shot is Sudacrem:
https://www.boots.com/en/Sudocrem-Antiseptic-Healing-Cream-125g_1666/ (https://www.boots.com/en/Sudocrem-Antiseptic-Healing-Cream-125g_1666/)
It's sold as nappy rash cream but I've found it to be really good for dry hands, sore skin, and healing flappers / cuts. Dirt cheap too. The only problem is that it does not sink in - so you can end up leaving white residues all over everything (I guess that is why it is so effective - forms a barrier that seals in moisture).
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Thanks all for the contributions; I do most of the above (wash hands in rivers etc, moisturise asap...) thanks JB for the general warm hands advice, might try wearing mountaineering gloves on the walk in for best effect. I have found marginally the best high street moistuiser aveeno, or one of the lush ones, but there probably isn't that much difference between all of them. Have used savlon in the past - might get some of that again, it seemed a little effective at least.
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... and I'll give the Simond chalk and climbskin a go too, thanks TT and Pete. I like the idea you can use CS before / during climbing as well.
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Cracks are incredibly painful. Often infection is what stops them healing. I use savlon or tcp, then glue them up with superglue. The glue works wonders, instant pain relief. Again cold is the issue with cracking so keep them warm.
Having always written superglue off as a bit too weird I recently tried it on a particularly painful split I'd got on the end / down the side of my thumb. Couldn't believe I'd never tried it before, as you say, instant pain relief and seem to help healing, presumably as it's stopping any further splitting.
I just sand / emery board off am much of the dead / dry stuff around the split as I can, glue it and leave it.
And as for the other stuff, +1 to gloves when out and about, and marigolds for washing up...thought I've not yet gone as far as wearing them in the shower yet!
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For overnight use, I personally like Elizabeth Arden 8 hr (the proper pink, smelly stuff - not the white, less smelling medicinal cream that's confusingly sold under the same name).
What? Please explain!
I got a tube of the white stuff for birthday after everyone raved about it, assuming it was the right stuff. So far It's early days yet but to be honest I'm not seeing that it's any better than any other moisturiser I've tried.
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For overnight use, I personally like Elizabeth Arden 8 hr (the proper pink, smelly stuff - not the white, less smelling medicinal cream that's confusingly sold under the same name).
What? Please explain!
I got a tube of the white stuff for birthday after everyone raved about it, assuming it was the right stuff. So far It's early days yet but to be honest I'm not seeing that it's any better than any other moisturiser I've tried.
The original 8 hour cream (the pink smelly stuff) is the original that was used for horses bruises, this is the good stuff and i find works better than any other moisturiser i have tried. The white stuff is just a hand cream that absorbs and is no different as far as i can tell from any other high street hand cream, there is a full range of Elizabeth Arden 8 hour stuff now piggy backing on the success of the original stuff that seems to have no connection to the original product other than marketing.
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Bastards, so I wasted £12 on this shit! Anyone post up a photo of what the packaging of the pink shit looks like so I know when ordering online?
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Kind of on topic, but does anyone get cracked cuticles in the cold? Mine split and bleed. Any goo recommended?
Moose, if the Sudocreme is a bit too greasy, try Bepanthen. It's also a nappy cream, but more absorbent.
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Kind of on topic, but does anyone get cracked cuticles in the cold? Mine split and bleed. Any goo recommended?
Yes - and no. Just usual cut off the hanging off bits and moisturise...
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I mean splits at the top of where the skin meets the nail? How do you cut this off?
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I've had eczema all my life and still get it bad on my hands. They flare up and crack a lot in winter and I tend to have sh*t skin when it's cold/damp.
I have Betnovate on prescription, pack cracks with climb on, use shed loads of Zerobase etc. In the past year or so have been really impressed with Hydromol Ointment. It's very greasy but incredibly healing, so I use it overnight. I would definitely recommend trying it on prescription (it's not a steroid btw).
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heel balm is worth a go for winter skin
the stuff I use is the normal 25% urea strength
I only use it when I have skin that I think is at risk of cracking
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I used to be quite prone to splits until I just tried drinking more fluids before and during climbing. Now I don't get splits anywhere near as much. And when I do, it's usually when I haven't drunk enough.
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Bastards, so I wasted £12 on this shit! Anyone post up a photo of what the packaging of the pink shit looks like so I know when ordering online?
That's alright Dave, you're about to spend about £25 on the real deal!
(https://boots.scene7.com/is/image/Boots/10029058?id=IZNaE2&fmt=jpg&fit=constrain,1&wid=504&hei=548)
I've just got some and its very greasy. I just put it on before bed. Little bits on the worst bits. Seems to working well so far but not sure if its better than anything else on the market.
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£12.49 from superdrug
http://www.superdrug.com/Skin/Face/Day-Cream-Moisturisers/Elizabeth-Arden-8-Hour-Cream-The-Original-Tube-50ml/p/333600#.VRSJLvmsWJc
Been using it for a year and I think it's excellent. Only use it on trips and when it's really necessary though, the latter being not that often. Also works wonders on chapped lips.
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I mean splits at the top of where the skin meets the nail? How do you cut this off?
Sharp teeth ;)
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I mean splits at the top of where the skin meets the nail? How do you cut this off?
Cuticle cutters (http://www.superdrug.com/Superdrug/Superdrug-cuticle-nipper/p/649256)
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Toby please please can I swap my skin for yours???
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Dave, re the Elizabeth Arden confusion - I made the same mistake. The tubes are identical except that the "good pink stuff" (rated by aficionados to cure everything from sunburn to chapped lips to eczema) has a pink cap. And, it is very good indeed for restoring chalk afflicted skin (too greasy for daytime use though).
The stuff with a white cap is just a pretty ordinary moisturizer - not really any better than Palmers cocoa butter, Nutragena etc.
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Toby please please can I swap my skin for yours???
That comes across as a bit Hannibal Lecteur. Fava beans and a nice Cianti with your skin?!
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What amazes me is this stuff has been mentioned on here umpteen times over the years but it's not until this motherfucker gets any does anycunt think to mention the fact that there's actually two almost identically packaged products, only one of which is the good stuff. Are you guys the crew?
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160222/0a7f45832743be564e637de61fb99053.jpg)
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Yup, that's the ersatz shit stuff. That kind of covert rebranding is annoyingly common with the big cosmetics companies. I've had lots of grief trying to buy my perfume obsessed mum presents for similar reasons. Cheap reformulations passed off as the original - with both available in near identical packaging (classic perfume recipes are often revised with less expensive ingredients but the original remains as an "under the counter" version to appease the oldskool fans).
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What amazes me is this stuff has been mentioned on here umpteen times over the years but it's not until this motherfucker gets any does anycunt think to mention the fact that there's actually two almost identically packaged products, only one of which is the good stuff. Are you guys the crew?
Before the RTFM crew show up: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,26207.0.html
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What amazes me is this stuff has been mentioned on here umpteen times over the years but it's not until this motherfucker gets any does anycunt think to mention the fact that there's actually two almost identically packaged products, only one of which is the good stuff. Are you guys the crew?
Before the RTFM crew show up: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,26207.0.html
and also here http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=25630.25
:ang:
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What amazes me is this stuff has been mentioned on here umpteen times over the years but it's not until this motherfucker gets any does anycunt think to mention the fact that there's actually two almost identically packaged products, only one of which is the good stuff. Are you guys the crew?
Before the RTFM crew show up: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,26207.0.html
Precisely the thread I read before dispatching the wife to the shops
:read:
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I'm tempted to try this, mainly so I can visit screwfix again soon:
http://www.screwfix.com/p/gorilla-glue-o-keeffes-working-hands-cream/3301F?kpid=3301F&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&cm_mmc=Google-_-Shopping%20-%20Auto%20and%20Cleaning-_-Shopping%20-%20Auto%20and%20Cleaning&gclid=CjwKEAiAo7C2BRDgqODGq5r38DsSJAAv7dTPIHSxyKq_oAof6J8CCqiUX2hiBnHoKHNW_t-Pi03yXhoCXW3w_wcB
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That's funny. My mother-in-law just brought me some of that from the States. It's not very nice IMO.
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The Original 8hr stuff is the bollocks, but any moisturiser that is based on lanolin seems to have the same effect. Nipple cream from Boots, or big pots of pure lanolin can be got a lot cheaper - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Now-Foods-7725-Solutions-Lanolin/dp/B000I1OYNK (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Now-Foods-7725-Solutions-Lanolin/dp/B000I1OYNK)
All of these are dead greasy though and take a while to soak in, so best applied in the evening.
I've got a pot of Lush Dream Cream in the car for immediately after climbing, which soaks in quickly, and the pot lasts for about 600 years.
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I have found this stuff to be okay too - urea and lanolin:
http://udderlysmooth.co.uk/product/extra-care-unscented-moisturising-cream-urea/ (http://udderlysmooth.co.uk/product/extra-care-unscented-moisturising-cream-urea/)
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What amazes me is this stuff has been mentioned on here umpteen times over the years but it's not until this motherfucker gets any does anycunt think to mention the fact that there's actually two almost identically packaged products, only one of which is the good stuff. Are you guys the crew?
Before the RTFM crew show up: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,26207.0.html
Precisely the thread I read before dispatching the wife to the shops
:read:
You da man. Get ya coat luv. I'm off to the pub to see a man about a...moisturiser; and I'm turning off the hearing whist I'm out! :furious:
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The Original 8hr stuff is the bollocks, but any moisturiser that is based on lanolin seems to have the same effect. Nipple cream from Boots, or big pots of pure lanolin can be got a lot cheaper - http://www.amazon.co.uk/Now-Foods-7725-Solutions-Lanolin/dp/B000I1OYNK (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Now-Foods-7725-Solutions-Lanolin/dp/B000I1OYNK)
All of these are dead greasy though and take a while to soak in, so best applied in the evening.
I've got a pot of Lush Dream Cream in the car for immediately after climbing, which soaks in quickly, and the pot lasts for about 600 years.
I've got a huge tub of Bag Balm, lanolin based and cost about a tenner. It's super greasy so not a day time cream but certainly does the job at a good price.
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Too good an oportunity to miss so here's 8B Crouchy doing the washing up with his extra strong horse arse proof gloves...
(https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1720/25204864900_2a5631150c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Epgwdd) (https://flic.kr/p/Epgwdd)
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When I'm in France I get a supply of moisturiser from Carrefour - about 4 Euros or so for 500ml. It sinks in really easily and has helped with painful cracked skin during extended trips.
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That's funny. My mother-in-law just brought me some of that from the States. It's not very nice IMO.
Well I ignored you and bought some anyway (whilst at the same time purchasing sealant remover, meths, white spirit, liquid sander and some new silicone sealant). All of the listed products have now been on my hands (in no particular order) and my skin is now VERY dry and showing obvious creases.
I obviously can't attest to how effective the O'Keefes stuff is but it's not offensive in any way (odourless) and absorbs into my skin (unlike a lot of climber balms).
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May or may not be relevant Tobes, but are you getting enough fat in your diet? Its worth noting that people with, err, non-straightforward relationships to food, often have skin problems. i know fuck all about dermatology, but you could try fiddling with macro ratios a bit?
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Apologies if this has had a mention already but Snowfire has been my top skin-fixer this winter, during multiple tussles with Eskdale Granite slopers:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Snowfire-2163343-18g-Ointment-Stick/dp/B001RYOOPA (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Snowfire-2163343-18g-Ointment-Stick/dp/B001RYOOPA)
So strong it's kept under the counter in Boots, proper old school stuff. Portable, not very greasy, invented before bouldering.
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and absorbs into my skin (unlike a lot of climber balms).
I know this is pedantic but it's not absorbed into the skin.
Moisturisers work by keeping moisture in the skins and proventing it evaporating, this is why "greasy" moisturisers actually work the best, but are obviously most suited to an evening/bedtime application.
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Yeah, always good to get something greasy on your palm before bed.
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I know this is pedantic but it's not absorbed into the skin.
Good knowledge.
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So I'm looking at the picture of the Crouch with his horse anus gloves on and apart from finding it fairly homoerotic or is that equinerotic, I'm thinking that if I was to wear such gloves, or even normal marigolds, I would end up with my hands so sweaty inside them, it would actually be just as wet as doing the dishes with them off. Is that right?? Doesn't seem right. Maybe I should get a dishwasher.
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So I'm looking at the picture of the Crouch with his horse anus gloves on and apart from finding it fairly homoerotic or is that equinerotic, I'm thinking that if I was to wear such gloves, or even normal marigolds, I would end up with my hands so sweaty inside them, it would actually be just as wet as doing the dishes with them off. Is that right?? Doesn't seem right. Maybe I should get a dishwasher.
My golden footed landlord bought some fleecey lined marigolds a few months back, not sure it's all due to the gloves but the kitchen is cleaner...
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Just came across this stuff (https://www.amazon.co.uk/OKeeffes-Working-Hands-Hand-Cream/dp/B005PA0UV4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496399389&sr=8-1&keywords=okeefes+working+hands) via a colleague in work and it's amazing!! It's totally unscented, goes on like water and absorbs really well, very strange but very moisturising. Just ordered some and will report back in due course...
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61XDnYyAr6L._SX355_.jpg)
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We use that in our house, highly rated. I get cracks along the sides of my thumbs all the time and it's done a good job of helping them heal after a bit of sanding and superglue-ing.