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the shizzle => equipment => Topic started by: comPiler on December 06, 2010, 03:02:40 pm

Title: Climbing Gear Reviews UK
Post by: comPiler on December 06, 2010, 03:02:40 pm
REVIEW: NIHIL Incubator Pant by Kevin Avery (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2010/11/13/review-nihil-incubator-pant-by-kevin-avery/)
13 November 2010, 9:25 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/logo-nihil-climbing.jpg?w=258&h=74) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/logo-nihil-climbing.jpg) Described as “a sturdy bouldering pant,” Kevin Avery tests the Incubator Pants from Dutch company, NIHIL… Rating (out of 5)



Performance: *****



Quality: *****



Value For Money: *****

Price: £60.00

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/incup_as_3.jpg?w=480&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/incup_as_3.jpg)NIHIL Incubator Pant NIHIL (http://www.nihilclimbing.com/) are a Dutch clothing company (NEWS: NIHIL in the UK (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2010/11/04/gear-news-nihi%E2%80%A6hing-in-the-uk/)) who’s philosophy is built around producing fashionable climbing clothing with optimal performance characteristics. The Men’s Incubator Pant certainly fits in well with this.

So what are they?

The Incubator pant is a trouser aimed at the bouldering market. It is made from a sturdy midweight cotton with a 3% Elastane content to add stretch and ease of movement. The fabric looks and feels tough without feeling too heavy when they’re on.

The Incubator Pants are simply designed but have some nice features which give them a sense of individuality. They are also incredibly practical and look good to boot.

They feature a zip fly with popper, two front pockets and one on the rear (none of which feature a closure) and a straight cut that is loose but not too baggy. Both pocket and fly areas are reinforced at key wear points with contrast double stitching, which is a nice touch.

The waistband is fitted with belt loops so a standard belt is the option if you fail to find the perfect fit.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/66676_10150130137773849_718948848_7658344_8362628_n.jpg?w=540&h=720) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/66676_10150130137773849_718948848_7658344_8362628_n.jpg)The Incubator Pants from NIHIL negotiating a tricky topout at Apremont, Fonatinbleau (PHOTO: Jennifer Adair) The hem of the Incubator Pants features a concealed drawcord. This allows you to cinch the hems in to stop them flapping around and  obscuring your boots but at the same time they are hidden so you  actually just see a standard trouser hem. Fashion and function indeed! I found this quite useful as the trousers only come in one leg length for each size and my pair were a little long (I’m usually a regular inside leg length). Obviously you can still roll them up if this is more to your liking.

The crotch is what I’d describe as standard. It doesn’t sit too low and it hasn’t got a diamond insert for extra mobility. To be honest though, the stretch fabric allows more than enough mobility.

What have I used them for and how did they perform?

Okay, so NIHIL describe these as a bouldering pant, so that’s what I did first! The sandstone playground of Fontainebleau (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2010/11/01/blog-fontaineb%E2%80%A6by-kevin-avery/) to be precise! I found the Incubator Pants to be very comfortable to climb in. They gave great mobility on tricky high steps and the cut is such that they don’t flap around and obscure your feet. The drawcords on the hem help with this as well.

I like the fact that the crotch isn’t too low as this is a gripe I have with many other “trendy” cragging pants I’ve tried in the past, particularly if I’ve worn them with a harness. The stretchy fabric provides more than enough mobility on those eye-watering bridging problems!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/40157_10150130142058849_718948848_7658448_1477785_n.jpg?w=540&h=720) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/40157_10150130142058849_718948848_7658448_1477785_n.jpg)Attempting the classic Noir Desir at Cuvier Rempart in a pair of Incubator pants from NIHIL (PHOTO: Jennifer Adair) So all in all this is a stylish, functional and durable pair of trousers easily capable of withstanding Font sandstone, Yorkshire grit and Swiss granite. But what are they like for climbing routes?

Well to be honest, the Incubators get along just as well. And this is primarily down to the cut, particularly in the upper leg and crotch area. As they are not “low crotch” or “low slung” on the waist, the trousers are not hauled up your legs to sit uncomfortably ruffled, as soon as you step into a harness. In fact they hang pretty much the same as when you don’t have a harness on at all. This I like!

Okay, they do have their failings. They are not waterproof or windproof or particularly quick drying, but it’s not the point of them either and they are still perfect for 99% of UK cragging situations.

In Conclusion

All in all the Incubator Pants are a well designed and stylish pair of climbing trousers. They are durable, comfortable, well cut and stretchy. They also look the part. Buy these if you want a top notch pair of trousers for cragging and bouldering. They are quickly becoming my cragging pants of choice!



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Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: BLOG: White Magic, Coire an t’Sneachda by Kevin Avery
Post by: comPiler on December 06, 2010, 03:02:40 pm
BLOG: White Magic, Coire an t’Sneachda by Kevin Avery (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2010/11/15/blog-white-magic-the-cairngorms/)
15 November 2010, 9:13 pm

Just back from the Cairngorms and the first winter route of the 2010/11 season!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/p1020753.jpg?w=600&h=337) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/p1020753.jpg)Steve Dunning at the top of the Magic Crack on White Magic VII 7, Coire an t'Sneachda, Cairngorms Headed up on Saturday evening with Steve Dunning (http://www.scarpa.co.uk/team/blogs.asp?TeamID=9). We arrived in a damp Aviemore at about 10pm, just in time for beers and live music at the Bridge Inn. The plan was to sleep in the car park at Cairngorm ski area then rise early Sunday morning and make a firm decision as to our objective.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/p1000349.jpg?w=600&h=450) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/p1000349.jpg)Bed for the night! Kevin and Steve outside the ranger station, Cairngorm ski area Up at 5am we decided to head for Coire an t’Sneachda (see the UKC destination article by Viv Scott (http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=2175)) and the mixed test-piece of White Magic VII 7. There was a light snow cover down to the parking area and a reasonable amount on the walk in but fortunately, a decent trail all the way to the Coire floor  gave us the luxury of an easy approach. We arrived just as it was getting light to find the buttress routes all sporting a decent winter coat! I was a little concerned that they may have been black after having read a report on UKC from Saturday, but thankfully we weren’t disappointed.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/p1020736.jpg?w=432&h=768) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/p1020736.jpg)Steve Dunning setting up belay below the Magic Crack White Magic is a route I’ve wanted to do ever since watching the BBC film of Scottish mixed master, Graham Ettle climbing it over ten years ago. The first 2 pitches are shared with The Genie (pitch 2 of which is actually quite tricky itself!) before stepping right to belay below the Magic Crack. This gives sustained and technical hooking and torquing with poor foot placements. Fortunately the protection is good although the crack was surprisingly iced up for this stage in the season, meaning the nuts didn’t go in quite as easily as I’d have liked!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/p1000359.jpg?w=530&h=768) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/p1000359.jpg)Kevin Avery arranging gear before the initial tricky corner on pitch 2. This is shared with The Genie V 7. The Magic Crack is visible, running diagonally up and right.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/p1020721.jpg?w=600&h=337) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/p1020721.jpg)Steve Dunning seconding pitch 2  

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/p1020737.jpg?w=600&h=337) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/p1020737.jpg)Steve Dunning seconding a very wintery White Magic (on the famous Magic Crack pitch) One final tricky pitch (awkward!) and an abseil descent (very continental) was followed by a race back down to the car, celebratory fish and chips in Aviemore and the 6 hour drive back to Yorkshire!

All in all an awesome day, fantastic route and superb start to the winter season!

Gear for the route Clothing for the route Winter Conditions and Weather Links

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Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: GEAR NEWS: The Kendal Mountain Festival 2010 (With Video)
Post by: comPiler on December 06, 2010, 03:02:41 pm
GEAR NEWS: The Kendal Mountain Festival 2010 (With Video) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2010/11/18/gear-news-the-kendal-mountain-film-festival-2010-with-video/)
18 November 2010, 6:38 am

The 18th-21st November sees the arrival of the 2010 Kendal Mountain Festival. (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/kmf-logo.png?w=121&h=178) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/kmf-logo.png) A wide variety of speakers, whole host of outdoor films and the usual hustle, bustle and partying, are all on offer! Speakers this year include: Check here for the full line up  (http://www.mountainfest.co.uk/speakers.cfm)

Buy tickets for the event online (http://www.mountainfest.co.uk/index.cfm) or call 01539 725133

A wide variety of films will also be showcased at the event: Full details can be found on the programme page (http://www.mountainfest.co.uk/programme.cfm?type=1), however  there is one film that Climbing Gear Reviews UK are particularly excited about…

Here is a taster! (http://img.youtube.com/vi/VUWBbepsdmY/2.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2010/11/18/gear-news-the-kendal-mountain-film-festival-2010-with-video/)



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Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: GEAR NEWS: Boreal Krypto Rockshoe
Post by: comPiler on December 06, 2010, 03:02:41 pm
GEAR NEWS: Boreal Krypto Rockshoe (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2010/11/23/gear-news-boreal-krypto-rockshoe/)
23 November 2010, 10:28 pm

Boreal are pleased to announce for 2011 the Krypto, a new shoe for top end performance… (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/logo_color_grande.jpg?w=300&h=159) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/logo_color_grande.jpg)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/11450-krypto.jpg?w=300&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/11450-krypto.jpg)The new Boreal Krypto Boreal say: The Krypto offers a ??????precise fit around the foot which delivers performance during any kind of movement, toe, edging and heel. The special toe profile provides excellent precision on marginal holds. ??Perfect for technically difficult, vertical or overhanging routes. Specially designed for extreme moves on small holds.



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Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: BLOG: Kendal Mountain Festival (WITH VIDEO) and Scabbard Chimney by Kevin Avery
Post by: comPiler on December 06, 2010, 03:02:41 pm
BLOG: Kendal Mountain Festival (WITH VIDEO) and Scabbard Chimney by Kevin Avery (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2010/11/24/blog-kendal-mountain-festival-with-video-and-scabbard-chimney-by-kevin-avery/)
24 November 2010, 10:38 pm

Last weekend saw the annual outing to Kendal Mountain Festival. (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/kmf-logo.png?w=121&h=178) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/kmf-logo.png)

(Read our pre-KMF news piece here) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2010/11/18/gear-news-the-kendal-mountain-film-festival-2010-with-video/)

So, KMF…a delightful smorgasbord of speakers, films, trade stands and superstars all oggled by the usual ramshackle band of beanie wearing, down jacket donning enthusiasts and armchair critics! (We include ourselves in that description so please don’t be offended!!)

Dave and I attended on Saturday (big thanks to Clive Allen at Ascent Marketing for arranging tickets for us) excited by the possibility of seeing some top notch psyche material, meeting new companies in the marquee and generally enjoying ourselves. One thing I love about KMF is that it always seems to bring out seldom seen friends and this one was no exception. Obligatory chin-wags about latest adventures, happenings and in some cases mis-happenings (!) all add up to a super weekend.

After obligatory morning coffee we headed to the marquee meeting representatives from Patagonia (http://www.patagonia.com/eu/enGB/shop/mens?k=1D), Custard Climbing Creations (http://www.custardclimbingcreations.co.uk/), Viewranger Mapping (http://www.viewranger.com/products.php) and Clif Bar (http://www.clifbar.com/). We were bowled over by the reception we received, all of the companies being very positive about the site and getting involved with the reviews. Dave managed to set a new record on the Patagonia stand, hammering the nail into the log in a blistering 2.7 seconds using a Chouinard hammer! Legend!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/p1020758.jpg?w=432&h=768) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/p1020758.jpg)In a blur, Dave nails Patagonia- 2.7 seconds! Following some refreshments we headed to the movies. First up was Al Lee’s award winning The Prophet  (https://www.posingproductions.com/video.php?form_action=play&video_id=193)which captures “Penrith pin-up” Leo Houlding’s realisation of a 10 year El Cap free climbing dream. Alongside Jason Pickles (Britain’s manliest man?!) Leo takes us on a journey up Yosemite’s most sought after granite bastion. Success comes in the end but being pipped at the post by the 5.13d crux crack, Leo and Jason have to return to endure October storms before the full free line is theirs! The hardest route they’ve ever tried is now the hardest route they’ve ever climbed?

The Pinnacle (http://www.hotaches.com/default.htm) was next and to be honest was not one I expected to enjoy as much as I did. Robin Smith and Jimmy Marshall are legendary in their Ben Nevis new routing prowess! In 1960 they climbed six new winter routes on consecutive days including the sublime but serious ice face of Orion Direct. As if that was not enough, they made the first one day ascent of Point Five Gully as well as setting out on an enormous “rest day walk” to the pub which resulted in them being arrested, all in the name of a set of dominoes!

The Pinnacle follows mixed-master Andy Turner and all-round mutant, Dave MacLeod as they recreate this magical week. Using modern tools and equipment Turner and MacLeod are obviously impressed by what went on half a century ago. It just goes to show the level that Smith and Marshall were operating at that time. Eye opening stuff!

(http://img.youtube.com/vi/go0y7d_wb3g/2.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2010/11/24/blog-kendal-mountain-festival-with-video-and-scabbard-chimney-by-kevin-avery/)

After a couple of false starts, “Swiss Machine” Ueli Steck, finally graced the screen. Now Ueli is someone I hold in high regard. The man is a monster, his speed soloing feats blowing anything previous right out of the water! Fitness and mental control that I can barely comprehend. But super motivating at the same time! The Eiger North Face, Matterhorn North Face and Colton-Macintyre on the Grandes Jorasses, all pretty much sprinted! You don’t run in crampons…well actually this guy does! And he’s sponsored by a bathroom!

So suitably psyched, Saturday ended and Dave and I parted. Off to Glencoe for me and a rendezvous with the Manbeast…

4.30 am and the alarm howls. It feels like the middle of the night but this is Scottish winter climbing and day breaks early. Time to get up! Coffee and muffins for me and a “Bombay Badboy” Pot Noodle for Manbeast and we stomp into Stob Coire Nan Lochan. Arrival at first light and objective A is black, probably climbable in rock shoes with bare hands! Not exactly winter! Manbeast looks relieved so it’s off to objective B…

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/p1020759.jpg?w=600&h=337) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/p1020759.jpg)Black butresses- Stob Coire Nan Lochan, Glencoe  21/11/2010 Scabbard Chimney (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=7885) is a classic V 6 and looked like a suitably wintery target. Three pitches of chimney choked with crud (sugary snow, poorly bonded neve and rimeless rock!) gave superb and interesting climbing, including some technical torquing and bomber turf until a couple of rope lengths of snowy swimming (moving together) plonked us on the top. A stumble down some seemingly unstable slopes (thankfully not too unstable) in Broad Gully followed by a saunter back to the car, meant coffee and cake in the van by 2 pm.

Another superb day but possibly could have had that lie in after all!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/p1020781.jpg?w=600&h=337) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/p1020781.jpg)Manbeast versus Scabbard Chimney, V 6, Stob Coire Nan Lochan, Glencoe

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/p1020783.jpg?w=600&h=337) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/p1020783.jpg)Manbeast leading on crud, Scabbard Chimney, V 6, Stob Coire Nan Lochan, Glencoe Gear for the route Clothing for the route Winter Conditions and Weather Links

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Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: BLOG: Peak Winter Climbing – Back Tor
Post by: comPiler on December 06, 2010, 03:02:41 pm
BLOG: Peak Winter Climbing – Back Tor (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2010/11/28/peak-winter-climbing-back-tor/)
28 November 2010, 4:34 pm



(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/back-tor.jpg?w=300&h=225)Back Tor - great mixed climbing with easy access  

Finally, after a few weeks of work and family commitments I was a free man! My mate Chris in Sheffield was under strict orders to monitor conditions as soon as it started to go cold on Wednesday. We were still agonising on Friday having decided that The Downfall wouldn’t be in and I was all for going snowshoeing on the North York Moors, a 7.00am phone call had me repacking the sack for a winter climbing day. Now many of you may have climbed The Downfall, many more will have slogged up the hour or so to find it unclimbable, many may have got to Mam Tor only to find the shale thawed too much, but if you keep walking along the ridge you will be rewarded with some great easy and mid grade mixed climbing that often in condition, all it takes is a few days of North Westerlies to freeze the turf and covering of snow and you can have a good day out with just a gentle ½ hour walk in, with the added bonus of often having the crag to yourself.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/ds-back-tor.jpg?w=300&h=225) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/ds-back-tor.jpg)Topping out after the final steep section. The crag was sheltered from the biting wind and we started at the left hand side and the chased the shade rightwards, as the sun was stripping the smattering of snow very quickly. There are no named routes as you can climb anywhere on the whole crag with nothing harder than III 4. The routes are 50m and you can make them as easy or as hard as you like as it’s often short steep steps with easier sections. Much of the rock is loose, but sections do offer good rock protection, leave the ice screws at home. So next time you feel that you need an easy day or don’t fancy the crowds at The Downfall then Back Tor may well be your answer. Let’s hope the freeze continues.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/chris-back-tor.jpg?w=300&h=225) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/chris-back-tor.jpg)Chris sees some sun after a neat rock section. Essential Kit:

Hardware – Black Diamond Viper  (http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-gb/shop/climb/technical-ice-tools/viper)axes,  Grivel G14  (http://www.grivel.com/products/ice/crampons/8-G14)crampons, Black Diamond wired hexes (http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-gb/shop/climb/protection/wired-hexentrics), DMM 4CU  (http://www.dmmclimbing.com/productsDetails.asp?pid=4&pid2=93)cams, Beal Joker (http://www.bealplanet.com/portail-2006/index.php?page=cordes_escalade&lang=us) 9.1mm single rope

Clothing – Smartwool Midweight Zip  (https://www.smartwool.com/default.cfm#/Mens/Apparel/_/_/2528/)(testing), Mountain Equipment G2 Ulimate Mounatin Pants (http://www.mountain-equipment.co.uk/the_gear/clothing/softshell/g2_ultimate_mountain_pant---265/), Patagonia Dimension jacket (http://www.patagonia.com/us/product/patagonia-mens-dimension-jacket-special?p=19021-1-984), Black Diamond Torque  (http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-gb/shop/climb/climbing-gloves/torque)gloves

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Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: BLOG: Skiing – Grands Montets, Chamonix
Post by: comPiler on December 06, 2010, 03:02:41 pm
BLOG: Skiing – Grands Montets, Chamonix (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2010/11/29/blog-skiing-grand-montets-chamonix/)
29 November 2010, 9:45 pm

Saturday saw the first skiing of the season at Grands Montets in Chamonix and my first skiing for about three seasons (gulp)!  

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/img_0161.jpg?w=594&h=795) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/img_0161.jpg)Chamonix skiing - the opening day at Grands Montets, 27/11/2010 But surely it’s just like riding a bike…?! Well, unfortunately skiing is a bike I never really mastered in the first place! At least I’d be skiing with someone who also didn’t know what they were doing though…

Having arranged to fly out and visit Alison for the weekend, I jetted out to Geneva on Friday night, being lucky enough to get a swift finish from work. A smooth journey (thanks to EasyJet (http://www.easyjet.com/asp/en/book/index.asp?lang=en) and Mountain Dropoffs (http://www.mountaindropoffs.com/)) had me in Taconnaz by just after 10pm, greeted by freezing temps and a thick blanket of snow! (Fortunately I didn’t have Steve in tow to suggest we slept in the car park!)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/img_0160.jpg?w=540&h=723) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/img_0160.jpg)View from the window- a snowy Taconnaz Saturday morning and some stalling tactics (coffee drinking!) had us out on the slopes by 11am. Visibility was poor and the temps were low but good snow cover on the pistes gave a few wobbly runs until I found my legs again! (Oh wait…I said earlier that I never actually had any legs!) Alison kept up…just (http://s1.wp.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif) , although I sensed she was tiring by the end of the day. I on the other hand was just getting warmed up!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/img_0165.jpg?w=540&h=405) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/img_0165.jpg)One of these people can ski! With daylight fading we took the telepherique back to base and headed home. A detour via Chamonix centre, bookshops and Snell Sports (if I ran a gear shop it would probably be like this!) was followed by a trip to what may be the best cake shop I have ever been to, (obviously I don’t really like coffee or cake, but Alison insisted!) rounding off an awesome day out on the hill.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/img_0167.jpg?w=540&h=403) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/img_0167.jpg)The best cake shop also has one of the best views... Saturday evening allowed some serious lazing time (for my quads to recover from all that snowploughing) and a viewing of the classic steep skiing documentary, Steep. If you haven’t see this film then I can highly recommend it. Whether you ski or not, it is awe inspiring!

(http://img.youtube.com/vi/Cr7_4LrF8As/2.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2010/11/29/blog-skiing-grand-montets-chamonix/)

A leisurely Sunday morning of full English breakfast (in France too, tut tut…), a wander in the snow and then another trip to the world’s best cake shop (under duress again, I hasten to add). Unfortunately I had a flight to catch and my hope of a last minute cancellation didn’t come through (http://s0.wp.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_sad.gif)  so we set off to Geneva mid-afternoon. It was a fantastic weekend though and I certainly can’t wait to go back.

Have a look at the compagniedumontblanc (http://www.compagniedumontblanc.fr/plan_grandsmontets.php) site for up to date info on skiing at Grands Montets.

Addendum

Okay so I may have exaggerated the skiing a little! Alison is actually quite (very!) handy on skis. She even had me improving by the end of the day! If you’d like her to pass on some knowledge to you I’m sure she’d be more than happy to, so have a look at the courses on offer at BASS Chamonix (http://www.basschamonix.com/).

Being forced to go to the cake shop is all true…

Clothing


Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: REVIEWS: Winter Climbing Gear by Kevin Avery and Dave Sarkar
Post by: comPiler on December 06, 2010, 03:02:42 pm
REVIEWS: Winter Climbing Gear by Kevin Avery and Dave Sarkar (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2010/11/30/reviews-winter-climbing-gear-by-kevin-avery-and-dave-sarkar/)
30 November 2010, 6:23 pm

Winter is well and truly here… Climbing Gear Reviews UK currently have a number of products on test that are relevant to the winter season. These will begin to appear on the site over the next couple of weeks.

We also have a number of Buyer’s Guides which we will be publishing over the coming months so look out for those!

In the meantime here are some links to reviews that Kevin and Dave  have written and had published, all of which are relevant to the  present season. Enjoy!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/p1010511.jpg?w=540&h=303) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/p1010511.jpg)Classic Ben Nevis Ridges...Tower Ridge IV 3

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/img_1350.jpg?w=461&h=614) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/img_1350.jpg)Perfect Ice...Stella Artice WI 5, Cogne

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/p1010083.jpg?w=389&h=691) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/p1010083.jpg)Steep Mixed...Engineer's Slabs, Gable Crag, Lake District Click on the links to read our reviews:



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Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: BLOG: Snowshoeing – when second best is better!
Post by: comPiler on December 06, 2010, 03:02:42 pm
BLOG: Snowshoeing – when second best is better! (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2010/12/05/snowshoeing-%E2%80%93-when-second-best-is-better/)
5 December 2010, 7:42 pm



(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1010486.jpg?w=640&h=360) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1010486.jpg)Snowshoeing - a great aerobic workout I had to cancel my climbing day as my wife needed some emergency dental treatment and I had to look after the boys. So after lunch I went off with the snowshoes to do some product testing and take photos. I’m not a good skier so I’ve always preferred snowshoes as I can get a great snowy adventure without the misery of winter climbing. I headed off over Ilkley Moor, which is a 30 minute drive from my house, into what felt like a Arctic wilderness.  The beauty of snowshoes is that you can easily get off the beaten track and the combination of deep snow and springy heather provided a great, lungbusting, workout. To be honest, I’d been doing plenty of climbing this week so my arms were pretty blasted and a good aerobic workout was just what the doctor ordered. The weather was awesome, about -2oC and crystal clear and the last hour in beautiful crystalline darkness was magical.

Essentail Kit

Snowshoes - Inook VXM (http://inooksnowshoes.com/2010-pages-inook-EN/34-progressive.php)

Baselayer – Smartwool Midweight zip t (https://www.smartwool.com/default.cfm#/mens/apparel/tops/sportcollection/2519/) (on test).

Jacket -Marmot Tempo (https://www.smartwool.com/default.cfm#/mens/apparel/tops/sportcollection/2519/)

Moutain Equpiment Powerfleece tights (http://www.mountain-equipment.co.uk/the_gear/clothing/thermal/powerfleece_tight---295/).

Poles – Black Diamond Alpine CF (http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-gb/shop/mountain/trekking-poles/alpine-carbon-cork)

Headtorch - Petzl Tikka XP² (http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/headlamps/compact-tikka-2/tikka-xp)

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Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: REVIEW: Black Diamond Drop Zone Bouldering Pad by Kevin Avery
Post by: comPiler on December 06, 2010, 03:02:42 pm
REVIEW: Black Diamond Drop Zone Bouldering Pad by Kevin Avery (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2010/12/06/review-black-diamond-drop-zone-bouldering-pad-by-kevin-avery/)
6 December 2010, 12:07 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/blackdiamond_standrd_neg.jpg?w=216&h=136) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/blackdiamond_standrd_neg.jpg)Entering the (Black Diamond) Drop Zone… Rating (out of 5)

 Performance: ****



Quality: *****



Value For Money: *****

Price: £159.99

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/dropzone.jpg?w=576&h=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/dropzone.jpg)The Drop Zone Crashpad from Black Diamond I remember attempting Syrett’s Roof, the classic Almscliff highball, back in the late nineties. Time and again I’d crater from the tricky rock-over onto the lip with only the unforgiving ground to stop me. I’d wonder why my ankles swelled and knees creaked, but that was what you did, anything else would have been regarded as soft, cheating or worse!

So, fast forward a little over ten years and picture this…

Bouldering mats! And not just one, but sometimes as many as ten. Stacked and packed below things that were once felt to be so high, that they required a rope! Times have changed.

Fancy some of this comfort and reassurance? Then read on…

My first bouldering mat was far from thick or enormous, but it felt like a top rope compared with hitting heel bruising blocks. I’ve had a few since then, the most recent which have been the Drop Zone pads from Black Diamond. I had the first generation BD Drop Zone (the one after the original and bombproof Franklin pad) which was a great pad and is still going strong today so I was keen to test Black Diamond’s new (and hopefully) improved offering too.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/psycho.jpg?w=576&h=292) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/psycho.jpg)Kevin Avery heading for the Black Diamond Drop Zone Crashpad off Psycho at Caley (PHOTO: Stuart Littlefair) So how is it? Well, I’ve tested the new Drop Zone for a little over 12 months, padding out boulder problems, highballs and well…proper routes, where the prospect of decking from high up was actually quite real! I’ve also used it as a trusty sofa, propped against the car when camping.

The new generation Drop Zone is similar in many ways to the old one. Dimensions are the same (104 x 122 x 9 cm), foam thickness is the same (25 mm closed-cell PE foam on top, 65 mm high-compression PU foam on bottom), it folds “taco” style to give a continuous landing area (no hidden hinges or creases) and it carries like a rucksack.

The rucksack straps are removable (not fully but they open out) so they  don’t snag when the pad is open and it even has a waist belt for added  comfort and stability on long carries.

But in other ways it is different. The closure system has changed and on first impression I thought this was for the worse, but having used it for a while I’ve changed my mind. The flimsy looking stretchy nylon mesh is actually very tough. In fact after 12 months of use it still looks new. Whereas the hypalon on my old pad has snapped so it doesn’t close properly any more. The new pad closes securely and allows gear to be stashed inside without falling out. A smallish day pack (say 30 litre or so) fits inside no problem as do the trendy modern courier style bags such as Black Diamond’s Pavement bag (http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-gb/shop/climb/bouldering/pavement-bag). It also features a small zipped stash pocket for storing smaller items and valuables on the approach (just make sure you take them out when you actually start climbing)!

One other thing I like is the fact that the pad features 2 suitcase style carrying handles. These were present on the original but as soon as you engaged the closure flap they were hidden and could no longer be used. It’s little improvements like this that actually make a new version worthwhile.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/caley.jpg?w=576&h=365) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/caley.jpg)Steve Dunning using the Black Diamond Dropzone Crashpad whilst enjoying a pleasant circuit at Caley The outer fabric on top (1000d PU coated nylon) is also pretty tough, I certainly haven’t put a hole it in yet despite using it on many jagged and uneven landing platforms. But it is the base that has impressed me the most. On this new version Black Diamond have opted for an anti-slide and waterproof EPO coating (CFC free) over a nylon carrier fabric. This has proved to work brilliantly! First of all you don’t get a wet or muddy back on the carry in and out as it doesn’t absorb like conventional nylon.

Secondly it actually helps the pad to stay where you have placed it, particularly if it’s on rocky ground where the rubber coating can really grip. This system is proving to be so durable that the whole outer is still looking as good as new!

But all of these features (whilst obviously very good) are kind of missing the point. Is it any good to fall onto? That is the real question!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020560.jpg?w=358&h=536) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020560.jpg)James Foley drop testing the Black Diamond Dropzone Crashpad at Bas Cuvier, Fontainebleau Okay, well as I said earlier I’ve used this pad for all kinds of things. Being of what I would probably call “medium” ground coverage it benefits from being perfect to carry round as a stand alone pad when doing problem circuits and is comforting to fall on if you don’t have a spotter. Basically it’s big enough so that you feel that you’re actually going to hit it but it’s not too much of a pain to lug it round from problem to problem either.

As things get higher then you’re going to want to use more than one. But as there is no hidden hinge to twist your ankle in and it has a non-slip base, this can be done with ease. Obviously I’m thinking your mates might also have one, not that you buy half a dozen, although I’m sure Black Diamond won’t complain! I’ve used these pads stacked (with other Drop Zones as well as pads by other brands) and they produce a pretty comforting landing zone. Great for protecting grit highballs and protectionless headpoints, although I definitely still admit to quivering a bit when I’m way above the ground. It’s not a toprope!

So this is a very good pad and defines the standard in mid-sized bouldering pads as far as I’m concerned.

But I do have a gripe… The foam in this new version just doesn’t seem to be as good as my old pad. It’s 2 layer, 25mm closed-cell PE foam on top and 65 mm high-compression PU foam on the bottom. The idea of this is that the top layer is firmer and absorbs the initial impact. It also stops you bottoming out which is very important. The bottom layer is thicker but less dense, thus softer and this provides the meat of the cushioning. I have used other pads which actually have third layer which is the same as the top layer (25mm high density) and personally this would be my preferred choice, but I presume it is more costly to produce pads in this way? I suppose it depends how highly you value your bones!

It’s a real shame but it just doesn’t seem as good to land on as my old Drop Zone. Not even when it was new. It just feels too soft (this could just be my personal preference though). Slightly firmer foam would definitely make this pad top of it’s class as well.

In Conclusion The Drop Zone is almost the perfect bouldering pad. It is well designed, has a high quality outer and gives good coverage on the ground. It is a perfect pad to go to if you are just going to buy one and will fit in the boot of most medium sized hatchbacks (although not my 1 series which may as well have only 2 seats)! The only thing that lets it down is the foam which I feel is a little too soft if you are hitting it from any great distance.

The non slip base is definitely one of my favorite features. Good work Black Diamond!

If you want a smaller pad then why not try the Satellite (http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-gb/shop/climb/bouldering/satellite) or if you want a monster then go big and go for the Mondo (http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-gb/shop/climb/bouldering/mondo)!



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Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Re: Climbing Gear Reviews UK
Post by: Jim on December 06, 2010, 10:21:56 pm
£60 for a pair of trousers good value for money? has the world gone mad.

like the photo of axle falling off marie rose. I wonder if he's done it yet?
Title: BLOG: Lakeland Mixed Climbing Part 1 – Snickersnack, Gable Crag
Post by: comPiler on December 08, 2010, 06:00:12 pm
BLOG: Lakeland Mixed Climbing Part 1 – Snickersnack, Gable Crag (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2010/12/07/blog-lakeland-mixed-climbing-part-1-snickersnap-gable-crag/)
7 December 2010, 7:09 pm

Winter has started early this year, a prolonged freeze and decent dump of snow has brought many of the UK winter hot (cold?) spots into perfect condition. (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/ss0.jpg?w=576&h=460) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/ss0.jpg)Kevin Avery lost in the scale of Snickersnack, Gable Crag, Lake District (PHOTO: Mike Whiteside) Early last week Manbeast (Chris Reid) and I made a plan to head for the mixed routes of Number 3 Gully Buttress on Ben Nevis, but on Friday that plan had to change. Wintery weather meant Chris was facing the distinct possibility of being stuck in Richmond, the A66 being closed until Monday and the A69 being closed until 5pm on Friday, and even then it was only just passable.

So, in the face of some hazardous driving conditions in the West we changed our plans and headed for the Lake District. Friday night gave treacherous roads but in the end we made it up to the top end of Borrowdale.

Gable Crag is regarded by many as one of the best and most reliable winter climbing venues in the Lakes. Now by winter climbing I’m not talking about fat cascades of ice and gullies choked with neve. I’m talking mixed climbing, snowed-up rock, frozen turf and icy cracks. For this realm, Gable Crag is as good as any and on Saturday conditions there were the best I’ve ever seen!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/gable.jpg?w=576&h=324) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/gable.jpg)Gable Crag in full winter garb So Snickersnack  follows the line of the summer E3. Snickersnack is an awesome pitch in summer as is its neighbour, Dream Twister, in fact this pair of routes were my first E3 leads on rock well over 10 years ago. In 2006 Steve Ashworth and Stuart Wood (of the Ambleside gear emporium, The Epicentre (http://www.theepicentre.co.uk/) – check their excellent Lakes conditions blog (http://www.theepicentre.co.uk/blog) too) realised a dream by climbing Snickersnack as a winter mixed climb, naming it Snickersnap due to Ashworth having snapped the head off an ice axe on an initial attempt! Their ascent caused outrage amongst the local climbing community and led to Steve being physically assaulted by some numpty in Keswick who obviously thought that assault was a far more acceptable practice than winter mixed climbing!

However this did not put others off and the very next day, talented alpinist and winter climber, Nick Bullock repeated the route on-sight. The route and Steve and Woody’s ascent continued to hog the headlines for weeks afterwards though with people thrusting their aggressions (only verbally now!) towards the offending partnership.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/img_18881.jpg?w=512&h=682) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/img_18881.jpg)Kevin Avery high on Snickersnap, Gable Crag (PHOTO: Chris Reid)Since the first ascent things have calmed down and to me what happened then was kind of a milestone for Lakes winter climbing as it opened it up and brought it in line with the standards of more modern climbs in Scotland, where winter ascents of summer rock routes have been going on for years. Well actually, they had in the Lakes too. Just look at Bowfell Buttress and Engineer’s Slabs, both classic summer rock routes that receive plenty of ascents in winter too and have managed to survive in both realms without anyone getting a beating! Another more recent case is Dave Birkett’s ascent of the classic Gimmer VS, The Crack. It’s quite obvious nobody was going to punch Dave (he’s the Godfather of Lakes rock climbing) and it’s also quite obvious that whilst this route isn’t often in winter condition, it certainly was then.

Anyway that is all a bit of background and whether you agree with ascents like these or not (I’m sure we could discuss the pros and cons, justifications and potential altercations, ad infinitum) what Steve and Woody did captured my imagination and made me want to climb a route that I’d done previously in summer, in winter.

And to cut a long story short, on Saturday Chris Reid and I walked up to Gable Crag from Borrowdale, wading through knee deep powder on the way up to Windy Gap where we were greeted by a crag in full winter garb. It was most definitely in condition! Now I’d like to tell you I pissed up it but I didn’t. I didn’t fall off either but it was a time consuming business, the climbing being technical, sustained and placements needed to be excavated for tools, crampons and protection. The latter was generally bombproof (thank God!) and the hooks were superb, but foot placements were poor and a few times my feet shot off leaving me dangling from my axes convinced I should’ve really fallen.

The higher I got the more nervous I got which is weird as I always said that setting off on these things was the most difficult part mentally. I think I didn’t want to blow it and this added to my nerves. The thin crack section between the two overlaps is where I thought the crux would lie but this actually felt like one of the most straight forward parts and it was when exiting the top overlap that the crux came. The awesome hooks in the thin crack had to be abandoned and some precarious moves executed to gain a standing position where the upper crack widened. I hung in there, up, down, up, down…trying to find something secure to hook in the corner. Sometimes my pick ripped straight through and sometimes I eyeballed it as it wobbled, convincing myself  it was just not enough.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/img_18891.jpg?w=541&h=721) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/img_18891.jpg)Kevin Avery approaching the crux on Snickersnap (PHOTO: Chris Reid)After some fighting I found a directional hook for my right axe on a small edge on the right of the slim corner. Eyeballing it I stood up, a couple of delicate foot moves enabling me to exit the steepness and stand in the base of the wider crack to my left. I exhaled with relief. A bomber hook behind a flake, some gear then a romp, comparably anyway…it was all a blur.

Walking back down to Borrowdale we joked about heading into Keswick to see if I’d get punched too. Thankfully I didn’t! But more thanks to Chris for being an awesome and supportive belayer, any less of a Manbeast would have probably frozen to death. Difficult mixed climbing can be a time consuming business and it helps to have a partner who understands that. When he suggested leaving his belay jacket and headtorch at the bottom of Gimmer Crag the next day, I reminded him of his belay stint and he quickly clipped them both to the back of his harness!

Gear for the route Clothing for the route Winter Conditions and Weather Links

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Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Re: Climbing Gear Reviews UK
Post by: slackline on December 08, 2010, 06:20:46 pm
Can I get a re-post?

Something's gone awry with SMF pulling in this blog/RSS feed, same post now here three times.
Title: Re: Climbing Gear Reviews UK
Post by: dontfollowme on December 08, 2010, 08:16:52 pm
Or just do away with the compiler section  :please:
Title: BLOG: Lakeland Mixed Climbing Part 2 – The Crack Direct, Gimmer Crag by Kevin Avery
Post by: comPiler on December 09, 2010, 12:00:09 am
BLOG: Lakeland Mixed Climbing Part 2 – The Crack Direct, Gimmer Crag by Kevin Avery (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2010/12/08/blog-lakeland-mixed-climbing-part-2-the-crack-direct-gimmer-crag-by-kevin-avery/)
8 December 2010, 10:29 pm

So, having climbed Snickersnack on Saturday (see BLOG: Lakeland Mixed Climbing Part 1 (http://wp.me/p14X6I-aJ)) and conditions being nothing short of gobsmackingly good, the question was “What would Sunday’s objective be?”… (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/crack1.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/crack1.jpg)Kevin Avery seconding pitch 1, The Crack Direct, Gimmer Crag Fortunately the answer turned out to be a simple one. The Crack Direct on Gimmer Crag. Now Gimmer Crag is not the first place that springs to mind when you think of Lakeland winter climbing venues. It is relatively low lying, catches the sun and holds very little snow and ice in an average winter. In fact I’m sure I heard a rumor (which may be just that) saying  that first ascentionist, Dave Birkett had waited nearly thirty years to see this crag in winter condition. True or not it gives you an idea of the fickle nature of winter conditions at Gimmer.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020814.jpg?w=640&h=360) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020814.jpg)Gimmer Crag, 5/12/2010 Dave climbed The Crack in winter back in 2006 along with Mark “Ed” Edwards and described it as: “absolutely mega” and “the best route I have ever done.” (See the UKC news report here (http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=22986))

I remember asking Dave, who was climbing behind Owen and I when we did Bowfell Buttress last winter, if he thought The Crack might have come into condition that week and he told me he doubted it, pointing out that it pretty much needed a cloudy day, heavy snow and hurricane like winds to plaster the crag and bring it into condition. At that time I thought it was a one in a million, right place, right time type route, but I guess I was wrong. Or maybe we were just lucky.

Like I said in the Snickersnack post, winter has started early this year and with a bang! And on Thursday 2nd of December Steve Ashworth (of the Epicentre – see their excellent conditions blog (http://www.theepicentre.co.uk/blog/mixedmaster)), Paddy Cave and Mike Thomas made a winter ascent of The Crack.

A Winter Ascent of The Crack, VII 8, Gimmer Crag, Langdale (from Mixedmaster TV)



(http://img.youtube.com/vi/hiFFLphcI1Q/2.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2010/12/08/blog-lakeland-mixed-climbing-part-2-the-crack-direct-gimmer-crag-by-kevin-avery/)

With this in mind Manbeast and I decided to go for a look. So after a chilly night in the ODG carpark (the van heater decided to stop working) we flogged up the hill from Mickleden (awful!) and found the route to be in condition! In fact other steeper routes were looking plastered too and we quickly spotted evidence of an ascent of North West Arete which actually turned out to be Steve and Woody (Epicentre dream team!) the previous day. The route going at VII 7 with a crux at the top – see the blog (http://www.theepicentre.co.uk/blog/mixedmaster) recounting the first ascent.

Now I’ve done many classic mixed climbs both in the Lakes and Scotland but I’d have to say that The Crack ranks as one of the best anywhere, giving 3 awesome sustained and technical pitches with some funky turf thrown in for good measure.The climbing is superbly varied, at times insecure, at times strenuous but always high quality.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020820.jpg?w=640&h=465) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020820.jpg)Chris seconding pitch 2 of The Crack Direct, Gimmer Crag. Having just completed the initial crux corner and turf-blob traverse. Hilights include ‘can-openers’ up the initial crack on pitch 1, turf blobs on pitch 2 (after the tenuous, strenous  and footholdless diagonal crack) and the awesome long finishing pitch (good effort Chris!) with its tricky half height overhang and thrutchy finish – well, it was dark by then!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020823.jpg?w=640&h=360) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1020823.jpg)Chris nearing the top of pitch 2 of The Crack Direct, Gimmer Crag Descending via abseil (once we’d found the stations!) we packed our sacks and stumbled back down the snow capped scree towards Mickleden, tired and weary but beaming too, happy in the knowledge that we’d had another top day out and a simply awesome weekend!

Gear for the route Clothing for the route Winter Conditions and Weather Links

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Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Packs for Winter Climbing – a CGR UK Buyer’s Guide
Post by: comPiler on December 14, 2010, 06:00:14 pm
Packs for Winter Climbing – a CGR UK Buyer’s Guide (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2010/12/11/packs-for-winter-climbing-a-cgruk-buyers-guide-winter-climbing-ice-climbing-mixed-climbing/)
11 December 2010, 5:48 am

Click to view slideshow. (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2010/12/11/packs-for-winter-climbing-a-cgruk-buyers-guide-winter-climbing-ice-climbing-mixed-climbing/#gallery-1-slideshow) Imagine that you could winter climb in complete freedom, always have complete vision of the way ahead, easily find and deploy gear and feel as free as if you were sport climbing in Spain… For most of us the reality is somewhat different, slings get stuck, we fumble to find the exact piece of gear, stuff is swaying around our necks and getting in the way. The culprit? Quite often it’s your pack, there’s no denying that a pack can be a real pain when winter climbing, gloves, gear and the need for survival kit all impact on type of pack you need and how well you can be climbing. Kev prefers to climb with a tiny pack that he carries in his normal pack, with the second carrying it. I prefer a midsized, streamlined pack that compresses flat, it keeps my back warmer.

Hopefully by the end of the following guide, you will be better informed about what to look for and we will also offer some packs to make your research more informed.

Importantly, I would remind you of the maxim – ‘buy in haste, repent at leisure’. Your pack should perform in all the winter sports you engage in from climbing to winter walking. It’s definitely worth going to a specialist retailer and trying on many different packs. Take your climbing kit and clothing with you and load the pack with it; if not then use the shops stuff, they should have plenty!

Do not try it on empty or just full of clothing, the pack will not perform in the same way. And whatever you do, do not compromise just because a pack is on sale, if it’s not the perfect pack for you, have a rethink. I can’t tell you how many poorly performing packs I’ve bought just because they’re cheaper than the one I want and I want one now!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/s08_hiking_canada_selkirks-5.jpg?w=300&h=200) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/s08_hiking_canada_selkirks-5.jpg)Choose your pack wisely and it will perform for all your winter activities. Back Size

Firstly, let’s look at what you would look for in more detail: firstly and most importantly the pack will have to fit your back size, I’ve bought and reviewed many packs. Many manufacturers will offer technical packs in 2 or three back sizes, as well as women’s versions. You really should read the fitting guide (if there is one) and pay close attention to how far up your back it fits, too high and you’ll be putting too much load onto your shoulders, too low and the pack will move around and begin to rub your shoulders. So how the pack fit’s your back is crucial, the pack should sit neatly into your lumbar hollow and the weight be evenly distributed between the shoulders and hips. It should also feel ‘wrapped’ around you.

Back Support System

The back support system is another important feature, if a pack has one it should be removable. You may want that extra support for a multiday expedition, but for a day on the mountain it’s not worth the weight, an HDPE insert should be sufficient. If the support isn’t removable, check it doesn’t raise the pack too high. Wear a helmet and look up a lot with you arms raised, if the helmet is being tilted forward obstructing your view, it’s too high. Next look at the straps, they should have sufficient padding but not an excessive amount or the straps will roll over when you try to put the pack on again. Remember you are only carrying weight in it for short periods of your day and not backpacking!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/axios-sternum-strap.jpg?w=95&h=150) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/axios-sternum-strap.jpg)A good sternum strap can take a lot of load off your shoulders. Sternum Straps

A good, strong sternum strap is also helpful – the sternum strap helps to ease the load off the shoulders. It should be adjustable up and down and most modern ones come with a whistle. One neat little feature I look for on the sternum strap is the ability to secure my watch to it. I often climb with my watch on the strap otherwise it’s difficult to see under gloves.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/hypalon-racking-low-res.jpg?w=150&h=100) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/hypalon-racking-low-res.jpg)Hip belts are very important and ice clipper slots allow a flexible way to carry extra kit.  Hip Belt The hip belt is more important than you think, you definitely don’t want any major padding and it should be removable or have space to tuck away. At a push you can clip the belt around the back of the pack but this isn’t ideal, as it can catch when you are chimneying. Some belts have gear loops on them, this is fine if you’re crossing a glacier or ski touring, but can be a nuisance when technical climbing as it can interfere with your normal racking, ice clipper slots are better. What Size Should I Go For?

The pack size is also a significant issue. If you are a beginner you may feel 45L is plenty, intermediate climbers should be OK with 40L and elite climbers could get away with 35L. Why? Well the elite climbers will have been climbing longer, will be fitter and will finish their day much earlier than a beginner. They will also know their limits and what they can get away without using and willing to take that risk.

The Lid

The lid is an often overlooked part of a pack, ideally it wants to be removable so that you can lighten and streamline the pack, it should also have a well sized pocket for several pairs of gloves, some food, a strong key clipper and oversized zip pulls. If the lid isn’t removable then it can always be tucked into the main body and the pack cinched up, this will streamline the pack. I often walk into the CIC Hut with the pack loaded, then strip it for the days that I’m climbing.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/kev-ben-apr-2010.jpg?w=300&h=224) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/kev-ben-apr-2010.jpg)Kev showing why a duffle bag is no substitute for a quality winter pack, oh how we laughed! Walking into The CIC Hut to enjoy the awesome conditions on Ben Nevis, April 2010 Other Straps and Features Lastly straps, anyone who’s been in a raging gale on the top of The Ben will testify how lethal loose straps can become, once you’ve been whipped in the face for 2 hours you’ll be reaching for the knife! Look for innovative ways of reducing waste strapping, it will be the sign of other well thought out features. Compression straps and haul loop should be easy to locate and operate. Buckles should also be very strong but minimal in design. Then there’s axe security, sleeve or loop? Either way it needs to be beefy as do the elastic lashes as you don’t want to lose your £450 axes on the walk in. Oh, and call me old school, but I do like wand pockets, so that I can stow the poles for my tired old legs! So, a lot to think about and try out, the following packs are some we feel fit the bill for a winter’s day out.

We’ve taken six of the major players and asked them what packs in this seasons range would be ideal for winter climbers. Lowe Alpine Mountain Attack Pro 35+10L (http://www.lowealpine.com/eng/prod_app_det.php?catid=9&itemid=734&type=man) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/mountainattackpro.jpg?w=188&h=259)Lowe Alpine Mountain Attack Pro A durable, no-nonsense pack designed for alpine climbing, ski mountaineering and general mountain use. The alloy Load Locker buckle is designed to be tough and lightweight, easy to use with mitts and gloves, while the Web Catcher system on the side offers 2 positions for carrying skis – upright or raked forward.

Osprey Mutant 38L (http://www.ospreypacks.com/Packs/MutantSeries)   (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/mutant-low-res.jpg?w=169&h=258) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/mutant-low-res.jpg) Osprey Mutant 38   A clean, lightweight and highly functional pack for all aspects of mountain use. It has a stowable hip-belt with racking system for quick and easy access to gear, an easy insert/remove bivi pad, and removable floating lid with spindrift collar. With a stripped weight of 0.95kg, the Mutant is a highly versatile and lightweight climbing pack. Target User – Year round Rock and Alpine Climbers looking for simple lightweight, minimalist design that uses modern tough construction and has useful climbing specific features.

Haglofs Roc Ice (http://www.haglofs.com/en-US/products/backpacksbags/mountains-backpacks/unisex/roc_ice_en-us.aspx)   (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/roc-ice.jpg?w=137&h=236) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/roc-ice.jpg) Haglofs Roc Ice  Roc Ice is a winter pack ideal for mountaineering and ice climbing. It is large enough to hold extra equipment required for winter climbing and ice axes and crampons can be stowed easily accessible on the outside of the pack.

Features – Thermoformed back pad, removable hip belt, expandable crampon pouch on front panel, ice axe attatchment, floating/detachable lid with water repellent zip opening, double pockets and key holder, rope carrying under lid.

Arc’teryx Cierzo 35 (http://www.arcteryx.com/Product.aspx?EN/Mens/Packs/Cierzo-35)    (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/f09-cierzo-35-pack-gold.jpg?w=234&h=240) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/f09-cierzo-35-pack-gold.jpg) Arc’teryx Cierzo 35   Designed as a lightweight summit pack, the Cierzo 35 is a highly packable bag that compresses small and stores in its own lid. Compact and nearly weightless, this pack is ideal as a secondary pack on alpine expeditions, backcountry treks, or kayaking adventures.   Technical Features: lightweight (580g), highly compressible, removable foam back pad, removable sternum strap, ultra-light shoulder straps, stows in top lid, removable front compression sling with four straps, one removable ice axe keeper, two ice axe loops.

The North Face Spire 40L (http://uk.thenorthface.com/tnf-uk-en/equipment/tech-packs/spire-40.html?colour=592)   (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/tnf-spire.jpg?w=214&h=235) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/tnf-spire.jpg) TNR Spire 40   A removable 6061 custom-extended aluminium stay; very light, yet burly automobile airbag fabric; welded abrasion-resistant fabric reinforcements; padded, removable, tuckable hipbelt; Reinforced three-point haul loops; Moulded E-VAP back panel; zippered front side stash pocket; beefy elastic ice axe lash points; reinforced side ski loops for A-frame carry; reinforced tool loops on hipbelt.

Black Diamond Sphynx 32L (http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-gb/shop/climb/climbing-packs/sphynx-32)   (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/sphynx-32.jpg?w=158&h=261) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/sphynx-32.jpg) Black Diamond Sphynx 32   A ready-for-anything top-loader with a low-profile design and clean lines, the Sphynx has plenty of room for your winter mountain gear yet is versatile enough for all-season use. It has: a removable 20 mm aluminum stay and framesheet; dual-density shoulder straps and hipbelt; top-load access; ice tool PickPockets™; ice clipper slots;  crampon patch and 3-point haul system; side compression straps and ski slots and is hydration compatible.



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Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: GEAR NEWS – Totem Cams, a new camming concept from Spain.
Post by: comPiler on December 17, 2010, 12:00:16 am
GEAR NEWS – Totem Cams, a new camming concept from Spain. (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2010/12/16/gear-news-totem-cams-a-new-camming-concept-from-spain/)
16 December 2010, 7:11 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/logo.gif?w=216&h=73) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/logo.gif)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/totem_purple2.jpg?w=448&h=298) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/totem_purple2.jpg)

 

The Totem Cam  (http://www.totemcams.com/)is a new, innovative camming device from The Basque Country in Spain. It represents a step forward in cam performance, with more than 8 years of research, prototypes, getting feedback from many climbers, and improving the first ideas, we have developed a camming device that introduces new features and capabilities. The new patented Direct Loading Camming Device System (US patent 7,014,156) applies a perfectly equalized load directly onto each lobe, minimizing the risk of inactive lobes and therefore any outbalanced forces that might compromise cam placement stability. When the crack is not deep enough and only two/three lobes contact the rock, Totem Cam offers the possibility to load only two lobes, to exploit shallow or flared cracks where one or two outer lobes cannot establish rock contact. Placements involving only half of the lobes can help to support body weight in aid climbing situations, but they cannot be used to protect against a fall. Once you have a Totem Cam in your hands, you can realize their flexibility, good expansion range (1.64:1) and high quality.

Watch out for a full CGR UK review of these great looking cams in 2011

You can view more details at www.totemcams.com (http://www.totemcams.com)

More technical details can be found in this video:

(http://img.youtube.com/vi/iM6D8Kw2prg/2.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2010/12/16/gear-news-totem-cams-a-new-camming-concept-from-spain/)

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Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: GEAR NEWS: Voluntary Recall Announced For Limited Portion of 2010 Black Diamond AvaLung Packs
Post by: comPiler on December 20, 2010, 06:00:11 pm
GEAR NEWS: Voluntary Recall Announced For Limited Portion of 2010 Black Diamond AvaLung Packs (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2010/12/20/gear-news-voluntary-recall-announced-for-limited-portion-of-2010-black-diamond-avalung-packs-ski-packs-ski-rucksacks/)
20 December 2010, 12:08 pm

Voluntary Recall Announced For Limited Portion of 2010 Black Diamond AvaLung Packs  

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/blackdiamond_standrd_neg.jpg?w=216&h=136) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/blackdiamond_standrd_neg.jpg)

Black Diamond Equipment, a leading global climbing and freeride ski brand, is making a voluntarily announced recall of a limited portion of 2010 Black Diamond AvaLung Packs because of a possibility that the intake tubing may crack under cold temperatures. “While we have not experienced a single safety issue related to this recall, we are aggressively pursuing the return of all potentially affected units,” explains Christian Jaeggi, Managing Director Black Diamond Equipment AG. “The AvaLung has saved multiple lives over the years and we cannot accept a hint of doubt in its ability to perform when needed.”

The recall pertains to a limited manufacturing run of Black Diamond AvaLung Packs sold in 2010, which can be identified by a PO number and model combination presented on the following website: www.BlackDiamondEquipment.com/AvaLungRecall. Any AvaLung Pack that falls within the announced criteria is potentially part of the recall and should be immediately returned to Black Diamond Equipment for inspection and/or replacement. Not all AvaLung Packs from these PO numbers have a faulty AvaLung unit, but this determination must be made in-house.

After determining that a 2010 AvaLung Pack has one of these PO numbers, Black Diamond requests that consumers:

a) Print out the required return form from www.BlackDiamondEquipment.com/AvaLungRecall (http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/AvaLungRecall)

b) Remove the AvaLung unit from your pack and return it to Black Diamond for inspection (see site for detailed video explanation)

c) Or, if do not wish to remove the AvaLung unit yourself, return the entire pack to Black Diamond to have the AvaLung unit inspected.

“We at Black Diamond apologize both for the inconvenience of this recall,” says Nathan Kuder, Black Diamond’s Softgoods Category Director. “The mere possibility that the AvaLung could potentially fail makes this an easy decision for us. Because the AvaLung plays an important role in avalanche protocol we want this recall effort to be 100% successful.”

For help identifying potentially affected AvaLung Packs, return instructions or questions on the status of a replacement, please contact Black Diamond at 0041 (0)61 564 33 33 or email recall@blackdiamond.eu.

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Title: Lake District Winter Climbing – a week in the sun!
Post by: comPiler on December 24, 2010, 12:00:15 pm
Lake District Winter Climbing – a week in the sun! (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2010/12/24/lake-district-winter-climbing-a-week-in-the-sun-ice-climbing-the-lakes-mixed-conditions/)
24 December 2010, 9:07 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1010573.jpg?w=640&h=360) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1010573.jpg)Brrrr. Perfect for ice climbing. Valley temperature in Borrowdale. The Lakes are in fine form this week, so I thought I’d post a quick update on conditions. It’s been absolutely Baltic every morning this week with Tuesday’s valley temperature -13oC, strangely though there was still some running water. We went to have a look at Honister icefalls on Monday and they where still running and detached from the rock in places. We ran away to Gable which was looking in great shape, very wintry with all the routes in condition. There wasn’t much ice though and the snow was fairly unconsolidated until quite high up. The turf was not as solid as we thought it would be, but Rich who was in Central Gully said it was more reasonable in there. It was great to be the only teams on the crag that day, it was very cold. The road up from Seatoller was clear, although we saw a car in the beck and two more abandoned on the Buttermere side.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1010579.jpg?w=655&h=369) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1010579.jpg)Great End looking in fine form. Tuesday saw us on a Great End which was in great winter shape and the best I’ve seen it for years. The old snow has become consolidated and the ice very fat with all the ice fall pitches complete, take your ice screws. We did Central Gully and Window Gully Upper Fall – which has a great steep curtain to start and super fat ice after. Again, weirdly the snow in Cust’s Gully, on the descent, was very powdery and made the descent slower than we would have liked. Extra excitement was in order on Tuesday night after being woken up at 11.30 by an earthquake! Measuring 3.6 on the Richter Scale, I’ve never got out of bed so fast!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1010606.jpg?w=168&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1010606.jpg)Enjoying the fat mountain ice on Central Gully, Great End. You could empty your screw rack into that pitch! More glorious weather and with our legs shot we opted for some valley ice on Wednesday, Sour Milk Gill was fully formed and gave great, fun soloing. The top was steep, cruddy and running but a way though could be found on the left. We then went to Taylor Gill Force, which again was fully formed but had a lot of water gushing out of a hole which was unavoidable, unless you were brave enough to go straight up the bubbly crud. A quick traverse around and a thorough soaking and the ice improved to give some great, fat ice. All very continental, nice warm and sunny all morning.

Yesterday we climbed Little Stranger Gill, which is in the woods out of Stonethwaite, after a truly thigh busting approach we found the best icefall all week: nice, steep, grade IV climbing with tricky moves and sketchy gear. The top curtain was awesome for a few moves, hollow but good placements – you could have been in Italy! Protected by a good screw and spike we pulled onto fat, solid ice. We descended by 2 short abseils from trees as you look up and left, we decided 2 short abs as it was easier to retrieve the ropes from the undergrowth. Well worth seeking out.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1010659.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1010659.jpg)Lost in a sea of ice. Sour Milk Gill - 5 mins walk from the car. So if the weather continues cold there’s plenty of great winter climbing to be had everywhere, low or mountain. Wishing you all a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year from the team at Climbing Gear Reviews UK.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1010652.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1010652.jpg)Chris and Richie enjoy the fat ice on Sour Milk Gill.

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Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: BLOG: Lake District Winter Climbing – a week in the sun!
Post by: comPiler on December 27, 2010, 12:00:09 pm
BLOG: Lake District Winter Climbing – a week in the sun! (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2010/12/24/lake-district-winter-climbing-a-week-in-the-sun-ice-climbing-the-lakes-mixed-conditions/)
24 December 2010, 9:07 am

  (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1010573.jpg?w=640&h=360) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1010573.jpg) Brrrr… a little chilly but perfect for ice climbing. Valley temperature in Borrowdale.   The Lakes are in fine form this week, so I thought I’d post a quick update on conditions. It’s been absolutely Baltic every morning this week with Tuesday’s valley temperature -13oC, strangely though there was still some running water. We went to have a look at Honister icefalls on Monday and they where still running and detached from the rock in places. We ran away to Gable which was looking in great shape, very wintry with all the routes in condition. There wasn’t much ice though and the snow was fairly unconsolidated until quite high up. The turf was not as solid as we thought it would be, but Rich who was in Central Gully said it was more reasonable in there. It was great to be the only teams on the crag that day, it was very cold. The road up from Seatoller was clear, although we saw a car in the beck and two more abandoned on the Buttermere side.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1010579.jpg?w=655&h=369) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1010579.jpg)Great End looking in fine form. Tuesday saw us on a Great End which was in great winter shape and the best I’ve seen it for years. The old snow has become consolidated and the ice very fat with all the ice fall pitches complete, take your ice screws. We did Central Gully and Window Gully Upper Fall – which has a great steep curtain to start and super fat ice after. Again, weirdly the snow in Cust’s Gully, on the descent, was very powdery and made the descent slower than we would have liked. Extra excitement was in order on Tuesday night after being woken up at 11.30 by an earthquake! Measuring 3.6 on the Richter Scale, I’ve never got out of bed so fast!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1010606.jpg?w=168&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1010606.jpg)Enjoying the fat mountain ice on Central Gully, Great End. You could empty your screw rack into that pitch! More glorious weather and with our legs shot we opted for some valley ice on Wednesday, Sour Milk Gill was fully formed and gave great, fun soloing. The top was steep, cruddy and running but a way though could be found on the left. We then went to Taylor Gill Force, which again was fully formed but had a lot of water gushing out of a hole which was unavoidable, unless you were brave enough to go straight up the bubbly crud. A quick traverse around and a thorough soaking and the ice improved to give some great, fat ice. All very continental, nice warm and sunny all morning.

Yesterday we climbed Little Stranger Gill, which is in the woods out of Stonethwaite, after a truly thigh busting approach we found the best icefall all week: nice, steep, grade IV climbing with tricky moves and sketchy gear. The top curtain was awesome for a few moves, hollow but good placements – you could have been in Italy! Protected by a good screw and spike we pulled onto fat, solid ice. We descended by 2 short abseils from trees as you look up and left, we decided 2 short abs as it was easier to retrieve the ropes from the undergrowth. Well worth seeking out.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1010659.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1010659.jpg)Lost in a sea of ice. Sour Milk Gill - 5 mins walk from the car. So if the weather continues cold there’s plenty of great winter climbing to be had everywhere, low or mountain. Wishing you all a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year from the team at Climbing Gear Reviews UK.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1010652.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/p1010652.jpg)Chris and Richie enjoy the fat ice on Sour Milk Gill.

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Title: GEAR NEWS: Mammut’s waterproof jackets – longer cut makes them perfect for UK.
Post by: comPiler on December 28, 2010, 12:00:09 pm
GEAR NEWS: Mammut’s waterproof jackets – longer cut makes them perfect for UK. (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2010/12/28/gear-news-mammut%E2%80%99s-waterproof-jackets-longer-cut-makes-them-perfect-for-uk/)
28 December 2010, 6:50 am



 (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/mammut-logo.jpg?w=300&h=249) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/mammut-logo.jpg)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/kiruna-jacket2.jpeg?w=265&h=438) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/kiruna-jacket2.jpeg)Mammut Kiruna men's jacket- it's longer cut makes it ideal for UK conditions. Mammut’s Mava jacket [for women] and Kiruna jacket [for men] feature design tweaks to make them perfect for wearing in the UK.  With a longer cut, Gore-Tex fabric and adjustable hood with reinforced shield.

 Retailing for around £225, these new longer line jackets are designed to offer reliable protection in windy and damp terrain, perfect for typical UK winter conditions.

 Weighing in at 660g these are sturdy jackets, features include stowable hood [it can be rolled into collar], underarm ventilation, shoulder and waist reinforcements, one hand adjustable drawcord hem, pre shaped sleeves with Velcro cuffs and two front pockets with bonded, watertight zippers.

 Use for: backpacking, mountain hiking, winter hiking snow shoeing and in the UK!

 Stockist info:  Mammut UK: 01625 508218; http://www.mammut.ch/

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Title: GEAR NEWS: Aclima’s HotWool – a cut above the rest…
Post by: comPiler on January 06, 2011, 06:00:12 pm
GEAR NEWS: Aclima’s HotWool – a cut above the rest… (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/01/06/gear-news-aclima%E2%80%99s-hotwool-a-cut-above-the-rest-aclima-merino-wool-baselayers/)
6 January 2011, 5:24 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/aclima_logo_2007_1-thumb.jpg?w=180&h=200) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/aclima_logo_2007_1-thumb.jpg)

Aclima’s HotWool: a cut above the rest…



Aclima believes in taking a  different approach to using wool in their layering garments – different  mixes for different jobs. Aclima HotWool is a mixture of a minimum of  65% Merino Wool blended with at least 30% technical fibres making a  thicker and more durable midlayer, which is also versatile enough to be  used as a base layer. The Merino Wool helps regulate your body  temperature, resists body odour and will keep you warm even when wet.  Available in two weights: 400g [which is extremely warm] and 230g, the  Aclima HotWool range is suitable for a large range of sports and outdoor  activities.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/382_productpicturelargeu09jj5.jpg?w=433&h=591) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/382_productpicturelargeu09jj5.jpg)Aclima Men’s 400g HotWool Jacket with Hood

Aclima HotWool can be machine washed  at 60°C unlike most wool being washed at 30°C or less. The terry loops  on the inside of Aclima’s HotWool products trap body heat, thus helping  to maintain a steady body temperature and comfort for the wearer. The  garments are warm, durable and naturally flame retardant, and are widely  used by the Norwegian and Swedish armies.

Garments available include:

Stockist information: Nordic Outdoor – 0131 552 3000 – www.nordicoutdoor.co.uk (http://www.nordicoutdoor.co.uk/)  

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Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Re: Climbing Gear Reviews UK
Post by: tomtom on January 06, 2011, 06:10:32 pm
Are these guys paying UKB to pick up on their blog? just seems to be blatant advertising! Fair enough for the blog writers as I suspect they get a load of free kit to try!! but...
Title: BLOG: Creag Meagaidh Ice and Scottish Skiing
Post by: comPiler on January 11, 2011, 12:00:21 am
BLOG: Creag Meagaidh Ice and Scottish Skiing (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/01/10/blog-creag-meagaidh-ice-and-scottish-skiing-scottish-ice-conditions-creag-meagaidh-nevis-range-skiing/)
10 January 2011, 7:48 pm

Sometimes things turn out to be much better than you’d have expected… (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/p1020917.jpg?w=576&h=384) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/p1020917.jpg)Scottish skiing really can be this good! Nevis Range 9/1/2011 Returning home last week from an excellent two week Chamonix trip (I’ll  post some photo hi-lights this week) it was straight back to teaching on  Wednesday with barely enough time to unpack. But, with a reasonable  forecast and unable to sit still for more than about a minute, I  arranged to head North on Friday with rock veteran (but pretty much ice  virgin!) Rich Kirby.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/p1020889.jpg?w=576&h=324) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/p1020889.jpg)Rich Kirby enjoying excellent ice on The Pumpkin, Creag Meagaidh The plan was for some classic Scottish ice on Saturday and some skiing Sunday. We arrived at the Meagaidh parking area to find it pretty much deserted and the clag was firmly down. After sorting kit and negotiating a get up time, we finally crashed out in the van at midnight with Rich more than once asking the question, “So alarm for 5 yeah…?” I think he thought I was joking but I persuaded him we were better beating the crowds and returning in daylight (actually there weren’t any crowds but we did get back in daylight, just!)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/p1020903.jpg?w=597&h=427) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/p1020903.jpg)Team Avery/Kirby back at the ranch Leaving the comfort of the van heating behind and fired up on pastries and Lavazza, we enjoyed a dark but leisurely stroll into the Coire. Arriving at first light the crags were deserted but certainly not short of ice! The Post Face was in great shape with fat ice on Last Post and South Post Direct. We opted for the Inner Coire and the Cold Climbs classic, The Pumkin. The ice was in good nick if a little brittle and the weather was pretty much perfect with only intermittent clouds and pretty much zero wind. The route gave 3 excellent ice pitches at the bottom (and an eye watering hotaches experience for Rich) followed by some easier mixed ground at the top. There was a minimal cornice on the exit but this seemed pretty stable and well scoured.

After spending some time admiring the views we descended via the window, enjoying a superb view of a team climbing The Wand, another route which looked to be in belting condition. Hopefully this week’s predicted thaw won’t strip things too much!

 

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/p1020901.jpg?w=576&h=1024) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/p1020901.jpg)The Wand, Creag Meagaidh, 8/1/2011 (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/p1020878.jpg?w=576&h=1023) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/p1020878.jpg)The Pumpkin, Creag Meagaidh, 8/1/2011 After having spent two weeks skiing in and around Chamonix I was preparing myself to be more than a little underwhelmed by Scottish skiing on Sunday. But I couldn’t have been more wrong! Nevis Range was awesome offering us some fresh powder to ski in the morning and great views in the afternoon. I even started to feel semi competent on the planks…well, kind of!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/p10209051.jpg?w=576&h=329) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/p10209051.jpg)Rich Kirby tearing up the Nevis Range powder! (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/p1020922.jpg?w=576&h=371) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/p1020922.jpg)Kev Avery skiing in Nevis Range sunshine! Returning South last night we both agreed that despite our initial reservations (Rich regarding ice and mine regarding the snow) the weekend really couldn’t have been better. Bring on the next one!!

Winter Conditions and Weather Links Climbing Kit Skiing Kit Clothing On Test

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Title: ARTICLE: Packs for Winter Climbing – a CGR UK Buyer’s Guide
Post by: comPiler on January 15, 2011, 12:00:09 pm
ARTICLE: Packs for Winter Climbing – a CGR UK Buyer’s Guide (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2010/12/11/packs-for-winter-climbing-a-cgruk-buyers-guide-winter-climbing-ice-climbing-mixed-climbing/)
11 December 2010, 5:48 am

Click to view slideshow. (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2010/12/11/packs-for-winter-climbing-a-cgruk-buyers-guide-winter-climbing-ice-climbing-mixed-climbing/#gallery-1-slideshow) Imagine that you could winter climb in complete freedom, always have complete vision of the way ahead, easily find and deploy gear and feel as free as if you were sport climbing in Spain… For most of us the reality is somewhat different, slings get stuck, we fumble to find the exact piece of gear, stuff is swaying around our necks and getting in the way. The culprit? Quite often it’s your pack, there’s no denying that a pack can be a real pain when winter climbing, gloves, gear and the need for survival kit all impact on type of pack you need and how well you can be climbing. Kev prefers to climb with a tiny pack that he carries in his normal pack, with the second carrying it. I prefer a midsized, streamlined pack that compresses flat, it keeps my back warmer.

Hopefully by the end of the following guide, you will be better informed about what to look for and we will also offer some packs to make your research more informed.

Importantly, I would remind you of the maxim – ‘buy in haste, repent at leisure’. Your pack should perform in all the winter sports you engage in from climbing to winter walking. It’s definitely worth going to a specialist retailer and trying on many different packs. Take your climbing kit and clothing with you and load the pack with it; if not then use the shops stuff, they should have plenty!

Do not try it on empty or just full of clothing, the pack will not perform in the same way. And whatever you do, do not compromise just because a pack is on sale, if it’s not the perfect pack for you, have a rethink. I can’t tell you how many poorly performing packs I’ve bought just because they’re cheaper than the one I want and I want one now!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/s08_hiking_canada_selkirks-5.jpg?w=300&h=200) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/s08_hiking_canada_selkirks-5.jpg)Choose your pack wisely and it will perform for all your winter activities. Back Size

Firstly, let’s look at what you would look for in more detail: firstly and most importantly the pack will have to fit your back size, I’ve bought and reviewed many packs. Many manufacturers will offer technical packs in 2 or three back sizes, as well as women’s versions. You really should read the fitting guide (if there is one) and pay close attention to how far up your back it fits, too high and you’ll be putting too much load onto your shoulders, too low and the pack will move around and begin to rub your shoulders. So how the pack fit’s your back is crucial, the pack should sit neatly into your lumbar hollow and the weight be evenly distributed between the shoulders and hips. It should also feel ‘wrapped’ around you.

Back Support System

The back support system is another important feature, if a pack has one it should be removable. You may want that extra support for a multiday expedition, but for a day on the mountain it’s not worth the weight, an HDPE insert should be sufficient. If the support isn’t removable, check it doesn’t raise the pack too high. Wear a helmet and look up a lot with you arms raised, if the helmet is being tilted forward obstructing your view, it’s too high. Next look at the straps, they should have sufficient padding but not an excessive amount or the straps will roll over when you try to put the pack on again. Remember you are only carrying weight in it for short periods of your day and not backpacking!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/axios-sternum-strap.jpg?w=95&h=150) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/axios-sternum-strap.jpg)A good sternum strap can take a lot of load off your shoulders. Sternum Straps

A good, strong sternum strap is also helpful – the sternum strap helps to ease the load off the shoulders. It should be adjustable up and down and most modern ones come with a whistle. One neat little feature I look for on the sternum strap is the ability to secure my watch to it. I often climb with my watch on the strap otherwise it’s difficult to see under gloves.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/hypalon-racking-low-res.jpg?w=150&h=100) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/hypalon-racking-low-res.jpg)Hip belts are very important and ice clipper slots allow a flexible way to carry extra kit.  Hip Belt The hip belt is more important than you think, you definitely don’t want any major padding and it should be removable or have space to tuck away. At a push you can clip the belt around the back of the pack but this isn’t ideal, as it can catch when you are chimneying. Some belts have gear loops on them, this is fine if you’re crossing a glacier or ski touring, but can be a nuisance when technical climbing as it can interfere with your normal racking, ice clipper slots are better. What Size Should I Go For?

The pack size is also a significant issue. If you are a beginner you may feel 45L is plenty, intermediate climbers should be OK with 40L and elite climbers could get away with 35L. Why? Well the elite climbers will have been climbing longer, will be fitter and will finish their day much earlier than a beginner. They will also know their limits and what they can get away without using and willing to take that risk.

The Lid

The lid is an often overlooked part of a pack, ideally it wants to be removable so that you can lighten and streamline the pack, it should also have a well sized pocket for several pairs of gloves, some food, a strong key clipper and oversized zip pulls. If the lid isn’t removable then it can always be tucked into the main body and the pack cinched up, this will streamline the pack. I often walk into the CIC Hut with the pack loaded, then strip it for the days that I’m climbing.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/kev-ben-apr-2010.jpg?w=300&h=224) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/kev-ben-apr-2010.jpg)Kev showing why a duffle bag is no substitute for a quality winter pack, oh how we laughed! Walking into The CIC Hut to enjoy the awesome conditions on Ben Nevis, April 2010 Other Straps and Features Lastly straps, anyone who’s been in a raging gale on the top of The Ben will testify how lethal loose straps can become, once you’ve been whipped in the face for 2 hours you’ll be reaching for the knife! Look for innovative ways of reducing waste strapping, it will be the sign of other well thought out features. Compression straps and haul loop should be easy to locate and operate. Buckles should also be very strong but minimal in design. Then there’s axe security, sleeve or loop? Either way it needs to be beefy as do the elastic lashes as you don’t want to lose your £450 axes on the walk in. Oh, and call me old school, but I do like wand pockets, so that I can stow the poles for my tired old legs! So, a lot to think about and try out, the following packs are some we feel fit the bill for a winter’s day out.

We’ve taken six of the major players and asked them what packs in this seasons range would be ideal for winter climbers. Lowe Alpine Mountain Attack Pro 35+10L (http://www.lowealpine.com/eng/prod_app_det.php?catid=9&itemid=734&type=man) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/mountainattackpro.jpg?w=188&h=259)Lowe Alpine Mountain Attack Pro A durable, no-nonsense pack designed for alpine climbing, ski mountaineering and general mountain use. The alloy Load Locker buckle is designed to be tough and lightweight, easy to use with mitts and gloves, while the Web Catcher system on the side offers 2 positions for carrying skis – upright or raked forward.

Osprey Mutant 38L (http://www.ospreypacks.com/Packs/MutantSeries)   (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/mutant-low-res.jpg?w=169&h=258) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/mutant-low-res.jpg) Osprey Mutant 38   A clean, lightweight and highly functional pack for all aspects of mountain use. It has a stowable hip-belt with racking system for quick and easy access to gear, an easy insert/remove bivi pad, and removable floating lid with spindrift collar. With a stripped weight of 0.95kg, the Mutant is a highly versatile and lightweight climbing pack. Target User – Year round Rock and Alpine Climbers looking for simple lightweight, minimalist design that uses modern tough construction and has useful climbing specific features.

Haglofs Roc Ice (http://www.haglofs.com/en-US/products/backpacksbags/mountains-backpacks/unisex/roc_ice_en-us.aspx)   (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/roc-ice.jpg?w=137&h=236) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/roc-ice.jpg) Haglofs Roc Ice  Roc Ice is a winter pack ideal for mountaineering and ice climbing. It is large enough to hold extra equipment required for winter climbing and ice axes and crampons can be stowed easily accessible on the outside of the pack.

Features – Thermoformed back pad, removable hip belt, expandable crampon pouch on front panel, ice axe attatchment, floating/detachable lid with water repellent zip opening, double pockets and key holder, rope carrying under lid.

Arc’teryx Cierzo 35 (http://www.arcteryx.com/Product.aspx?EN/Mens/Packs/Cierzo-35)    (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/f09-cierzo-35-pack-gold.jpg?w=234&h=240) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/f09-cierzo-35-pack-gold.jpg) Arc’teryx Cierzo 35   Designed as a lightweight summit pack, the Cierzo 35 is a highly packable bag that compresses small and stores in its own lid. Compact and nearly weightless, this pack is ideal as a secondary pack on alpine expeditions, backcountry treks, or kayaking adventures.   Technical Features: lightweight (580g), highly compressible, removable foam back pad, removable sternum strap, ultra-light shoulder straps, stows in top lid, removable front compression sling with four straps, one removable ice axe keeper, two ice axe loops.

The North Face Spire 40L (http://uk.thenorthface.com/tnf-uk-en/equipment/tech-packs/spire-40.html?colour=592)   (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/tnf-spire.jpg?w=214&h=235) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/tnf-spire.jpg) TNR Spire 40   A removable 6061 custom-extended aluminium stay; very light, yet burly automobile airbag fabric; welded abrasion-resistant fabric reinforcements; padded, removable, tuckable hipbelt; Reinforced three-point haul loops; Moulded E-VAP back panel; zippered front side stash pocket; beefy elastic ice axe lash points; reinforced side ski loops for A-frame carry; reinforced tool loops on hipbelt.

Black Diamond Sphynx 32L (http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-gb/shop/climb/climbing-packs/sphynx-32)   (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/sphynx-32.jpg?w=158&h=261) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/sphynx-32.jpg) Black Diamond Sphynx 32   A ready-for-anything top-loader with a low-profile design and clean lines, the Sphynx has plenty of room for your winter mountain gear yet is versatile enough for all-season use. It has: a removable 20 mm aluminum stay and framesheet; dual-density shoulder straps and hipbelt; top-load access; ice tool PickPockets™; ice clipper slots;  crampon patch and 3-point haul system; side compression straps and ski slots and is hydration compatible.



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Title: REVIEW – Smartwool Merino Baselayers by the CGR UK Team
Post by: comPiler on January 18, 2011, 12:00:16 am
REVIEW – Smartwool Merino Baselayers by the CGR UK Team (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/01/17/review-smartwool-merino-baselayers-by-the-cgr-uk-team-nts-next-to-skin-merino-wool-baselayer-review/)
17 January 2011, 6:24 pm

With winter raging on (well it was until now) the CGR UK team test a range of wool baselayers from Smartwool to see how ‘smart’ they really are… (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/smartwool-logo-color.jpg?w=448&h=360) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/smartwool-logo-color.jpg)

Midweight NTS Zip T by Dave Sarkar I have used Smartwool socks (https://www.smartwool.com/default.cfm#/Mens/Socks/) on my Stubai Glacier Tour in the summer and swear by them, so I was very keen to see if the Midweight NTS 1/4 Zip T (https://www.smartwool.com/default.cfm#/Search/NTS/_/_/2528/) matched their performance…  

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/mens-tml-sknit-zip-1.jpg?w=230&h=317) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/mens-tml-sknit-zip-1.jpg)Smartwool Men's Midweight NTS Zip T Rating (out of 5)



Performance: *****



Quality: *****



Value For Money: *****

Price: £69.95

 

I could quite happily live in this top, it feels like cotton against the skin and I have worn it every day (not for the entire day mind) for 10 days now and I still can’t get it to smell of anything other than my deodorant.

The top is a quarter zip, 250g/m2 , long sleeved, superfine merino wool t-shirt and I found it a very versatile baselayer, better for me than a crew neck as I could zip the collar up when stationary and vent it when on the move. I wore it running, snowshoeing, rock climbing and as a pproper baselayer for winter climbing and it performed very well in all those activities.

The Midweight NTS features set-in sleeves and shoulder panels that  eliminated shoulder seams and flatlock stitching which eased the chafing,  especially when I was carrying a pack loaded with winter kit. When the  top was damp with sweat, it dried out very quickly and then felt fine to  climb in. Ideally though, I found it best if I walked in with a  different top on, and then changed into this before climbing. Supreme  comfort and snugness was what I covered myself in, when layered up with  fleece and soft-shell top I never noticed I had it on, especially in the  pub at the end of the day. I’ve worn some tops that smell so badly I  can’t even talk to myself, let alone offer to buy a lady a drink and  recall tales of bravery!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/smartwool-1.jpg?w=576&h=324) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/smartwool-1.jpg)Smartwool Men's Midweight NTS Zip - perfect for high aerobic activities.  

Strangely I’m a medium in all clothing, except baselayers where I’m a large. Advice from Smartwool was that they sized their products on the large size so I got a medium, this fitted very well and although athletic wasn’t too tight a fit. More advice on the box stated that they are made slightly longer to allow for some shrinkage in the wash, but I didn’t really notice any shrinkage if I washed it on a wool wash cycle with Stergene or other gentle soap.

On the plus side I really loved the sleeves which were easy to roll up above the elbows aiding venting and for psyching up! This did mean that the sleeve cuffs felt a little baggy and loose around the wrists, but that didn’t detract from the performance, they would also feel a little short for people with a positive ape index. Another down side was the small zip pull, I would have liked to have seen it slightly bigger to make it easier to use with gloves on.

Conclusion  

A great midweight top with all performance of a synthetic baselayer and non of the stink! It’s super snug and feels great against the skin, I loved the sleeves which were easy to roll up when the going got tough. They need to be a little longer though if you’re tall (then again, it’s a small price to pay for being able to cruise all those reachy boulder problems!).

Lightweight NTS Zip T by Kevin Avery Smartwool describe the Lightweight NTS range as being great for those who run a little hot… (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/nts-lightweight-zip-t.jpg?w=269&h=269) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/nts-lightweight-zip-t.jpg)Smartwool Lightweight NTS Zip T Rating (out of 5)

 Performance: *****



Quality: *****



Value For Money: *****

Price: £59.95

I’ve used my Lightweight NTS zip top (https://www.smartwool.com/default.cfm#/Search/NTS%20lightweight%20zip%20t/_/_/2519/) for a little over 2 months now for activities including running, ice/mixed climbing, ski touring, bouldering and walking in the hills. I really like it’s versatility as a layering piece and it has quickly become the staple part of my layering system. I found it comfortable worn next to the skin with no chafing, itching or uncomfortable seams. It is cut long enough so that it doesn’t ride up when tucked into my legwear (it’s amazing how many companies get this wrong!) and the sleeves are also long enough so they don’t turn half-mast when my arms are above my head! I tested a size small and this is my usual size in most brands. I have found very limited shrinkage after washing the top…just follow the manufacturer’s instructions, no boil washing!

The zipper on the front provides ventilation on warmer days or when you are exerting yourself on walk-ins or during long periods “skinning” up hill. This is also useful for aerobic activities such as running and I’m sure it will be invaluable in the warmer summer months. When stationary you can zip it up to the neck, providing warm snugness. I have found the Lightweight NTS to be adequate on its own for strenuous walk-ins or runs when the wind has been absent, but I’d add a lightweight windproof such as Marmot’s Ion top on windier days. I’d then remove the windproof for climbing, add a mid-weight top such as a Patagonia R1 then a shell layer over the top. Under my other layers, the Lightweight NTS felt so comfortable I could easily have forgotten I was wearing it! Surely a good sign? I agree with the criticism of the zipper tab on mid-weight top though and would like to see a more glove friendly zipper tab on the Lightweight top as well.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/p1020897.jpg?w=576&h=324) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/p1020897.jpg)Having walked in to Creag Meagaidh in my Smartwool  NTS I layered a thin fleece and softshell jacket over the top for the route and stayed comfortably warm and dry all day! In terms of breathability I have found the NTS to wick moisture at a satisfactory rate during all of my winter pursuits. I still get the customary damp back when carrying a pack on grueling walk ins but nothing is going to stop this other than perhaps getting your mate to carry both packs! I will be interested to see how it fairs during the warmer months though as in the past I have found wool products to be best in the colder months but then gone back to synthetic layers in summer when I have found them to offer superior moisture transportation. Smartwool disagree (http://www.smartwool.com/woolology/#/why-wool/temperatureRegulation/) with this so we’ll have to wait and see! When damp with sweat though, it certainly dries quickly enough.

On the subject of odor, I wore this top for an 8 day period in the Alps over new year and I never noticed any lingering bad smells…I’m sure my climbing and skiing partners would have brought it to my attention too! Oh, and there was no ten metre cordon around me in the pub later either, before you ask!

Conclusion All in all I’ve found the Lightweight NTS T to be a comfortable and warm base layer. I like the cut, length of body and sleeves, warmth to weight it offers and the breathability. I’d like to see a more glove friendly zipper tab but other than that, it’s a great piece of kit.



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Title: Does climbing make you happy….? by Dave Sarkar
Post by: comPiler on January 30, 2011, 06:00:23 pm
Does climbing make you happy….? by Dave Sarkar (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/01/30/does-climbing-make-you-happy-by-dave-sarkar-rock-climbing-bouldering-winer-climbing-trad/)
30 January 2011, 6:00 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/on-top-of-gable-mar-2010.jpg?w=500&h=308) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/on-top-of-gable-mar-2010.jpg)Dave looking very happy on top of Gable Crag, Winter 2010 Work’s been pretty hectic lately, way too much of it and definitely not enough play. Kev seems to be doing fine with great tales of winter adventure; he’s young, single and hungry! I finally got some time free and decided to head over to Almscliffe, a gritstone crag, famous in Yorkshire for its ferocious routes and outstanding bouldering. On the way over I suddenly felt really happy, I hadn’t actually got to the crag but the anticipation of being there was very pleasurable.

 There’s lot’s of happiness talk about at the moment, it’s even reached the Prime Minister’s ear. We’re not happy and the he’s going to do something about it! I doubt it, happiness is a very real, personal and intense emotion and it’s very different for each and every one of us. Happiness for some is money, for others sex and for others it’s experiences. These are, of course, emotions at the radical end as relentless pursuit of one is obsession and is definitely not healthy. Research has shown that happiness is a combination of factors; to define it you need to strip out the human basics of food, shelter and sex. We have an abundance of these in the west (OK, we may not have an abundance of sex, but as my mum used to say to me ‘there’s plenty of fish, you just need to go fishing more often’). Strip these out of the happiness equation and you have three headings to ponder.

Pleasure: nailing the redpoint, topping out on the boulder problem you’ve been trying all winter, talking about that Grade V ascent in the pub, basking in the sun on the summit. These are all pleasure activities.

Challenge: this goes without saying: trying that boulder problem time and time again. Falling off and working out new sequences for your redpoint. Gritting your teeth and fighting the gnarly spindrift on Point 5 Gully. Planning for a successful Alpine ascent or training your butt off down the gym all winter. These are all challenge events, they may not feel like happiness when they are happening, but you are fully engaged.

Meaning: this is a big ask, it’s all about contribution and belonging. It could be participating in BMC area meetings, doing stuff for your Climbing Club; enjoying crag clean ups;  helping mates get into climbing and just generally just being part of the climbing scene. It could even mean you being an enthusiastic forum user and ethics defender (say no more!).

Happiness lies in a combination of all three, when we are engaged in all three we enter a ‘flow’state. This is where we are operating at peak performance, we have all experienced it somewhere, our first lead, leading the Rogue pitch on Point 5; cruising the red point and crushing the boulder problem. The problem is it doesn’t happen very often so is hard to pin down. So it’s worth finding time to develop the state. Well thanks to Rana Betting of www.climbingpsych.com  (http://www.climbingpsych.com/)we can train to achieve it, she advocates:

Having clear goals (i.e. get to the top of the climb…).

The activity is set up to give you immediate feedback (i.e. popping off of a climb or successfully making it to the top is definitely immediate feedback).

There being a balance between the level of challenge and your level of skill.

Having a high degree of concentration and focus.

You have a sense of control over the activity

You become so absorbed in what you are doing that you experience a loss of self-consciousness (as in worrying, am I doing this technique right?), time flies by (wow, I can’t believe we’ve been on this route for an hour!) and your focus of awareness is narrowed to only the activity itself (you’re not thinking about bills you need to pay or the drama you had with your sig. other last night).

It’s fun and rewarding! (This one is important. Otherwise, why climb?)

I would also like to add that although we spend a lot of time planning and thinking about future climbing adventures in far away places happiness is often to be found closer to home. Oh and the crag? It was bloody freezing, but I was happy (http://s2.wp.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)  Thanks Rana.

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Title: BLOG: Does climbing make you happy….? by Dave Sarkar
Post by: comPiler on January 31, 2011, 12:00:25 am
BLOG: Does climbing make you happy….? by Dave Sarkar (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/01/30/does-climbing-make-you-happy-by-dave-sarkar-rock-climbing-bouldering-winer-climbing-trad/)
30 January 2011, 6:00 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/on-top-of-gable-mar-2010.jpg?w=500&h=308) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/on-top-of-gable-mar-2010.jpg)Dave looking very happy on top of Gable Crag, Winter 2010 Work’s been pretty hectic lately, way too much of it and definitely not enough play. Kev seems to be doing fine with great tales of winter adventure; he’s young, single and hungry! I finally got some time free and decided to head over to Almscliffe, a gritstone crag, famous in Yorkshire for its ferocious routes and outstanding bouldering. On the way over I suddenly felt really happy, I hadn’t actually got to the crag but the anticipation of being there was very pleasurable.

There’s lot’s of happiness talk about at the moment, it’s even reached the Prime Minister’s ear. We’re not happy and the he’s going to do something about it! I doubt it, happiness is a very real, personal and intense emotion and it’s very different for each and every one of us. Happiness for some is money, for others sex and for others it’s experiences. These are, of course, emotions at the radical end as relentless pursuit of one is obsession and is definitely not healthy. Research has shown that happiness is a combination of factors; to define it you need to strip out the human basics of food, shelter and sex. We have an abundance of these in the west (OK, we may not have an abundance of sex, but as my mum used to say to me ‘there’s plenty of fish, you just need to go fishing more often’). Strip these out of the happiness equation and you have three headings to ponder.

Pleasure: nailing the redpoint, topping out on the boulder problem you’ve been trying all winter, talking about that Grade V ascent in the pub, basking in the sun on the summit. These are all pleasure activities.

Challenge: this goes without saying: trying that boulder problem time and time again. Falling off and working out new sequences for your redpoint. Gritting your teeth and fighting the gnarly spindrift on Point 5 Gully. Planning for a successful Alpine ascent or training your butt off down the gym all winter. These are all challenge events, they may not feel like happiness when they are happening, but you are fully engaged.

Meaning: this is a big ask, it’s all about contribution and belonging. It could be participating in BMC area meetings, doing stuff for your Climbing Club; enjoying crag clean ups;  helping mates get into climbing and just generally just being part of the climbing scene. It could even mean you being an enthusiastic forum user and ethics defender (say no more!).

Happiness lies in a combination of all three, when we are engaged in all three we enter a ‘flow’state. This is where we are operating at peak performance, we have all experienced it somewhere, our first lead, leading the Rogue pitch on Point 5; cruising the red point and crushing the boulder problem. The problem is it doesn’t happen very often so is hard to pin down. So it’s worth finding time to develop the state. Well thanks to Rana Betting of www.climbingpsych.com  (http://www.climbingpsych.com/)we can train to achieve it, she advocates:

Having clear goals (i.e. get to the top of the climb…).

The activity is set up to give you immediate feedback (i.e. popping off of a climb or successfully making it to the top is definitely immediate feedback).

There being a balance between the level of challenge and your level of skill.

Having a high degree of concentration and focus.

You have a sense of control over the activity

You become so absorbed in what you are doing that you experience a loss of self-consciousness (as in worrying, am I doing this technique right?), time flies by (wow, I can’t believe we’ve been on this route for an hour!) and your focus of awareness is narrowed to only the activity itself (you’re not thinking about bills you need to pay or the drama you had with your sig. other last night).

It’s fun and rewarding! (This one is important. Otherwise, why climb?)

I would also like to add that although we spend a lot of time planning and thinking about future climbing adventures in far away places happiness is often to be found closer to home. Oh and the crag? It was bloody freezing, but I was happy (http://s2.wp.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)  Thanks Rana.

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Title: BLOG: Ben Nevis Mixed Action by Kevin Avery
Post by: comPiler on February 03, 2011, 12:00:17 am
BLOG: Ben Nevis Mixed Action by Kevin Avery (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/02/02/blog-ben-nevis-mixed-action-ben-nevis-ice-climbing-conditions-darth-vader-sioux-wall-mixed-climbing-scottish-scotland/)
2 February 2011, 6:18 pm

Happiness is a 300 mile drive… (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/scotland-6-of-6.jpg?w=576&h=299) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/scotland-6-of-6.jpg)Kev Avery and Adam Lincoln happy to be enjoying awesome views on Ben Nevis after topping out on Darth Vader, 29/1/2011 (Copyright Adam Lincoln) Weekends are a mission, a mission up North usually to Ben Nevis or the Cairngorms. If I’m lucky the Lakes will be in nick and then we get the luxury of a shorter drive but since the Christmas bout of Arctic weather it’s been pretty disappointing in that neck of the woods and Scotland it has had to be. Monday at work and I’m more tired than I was on Friday, at the end of my working week, but that’s probably because the weekend goes something like this:

Friday 3 pm: finish work and drive 300+miles

Saturday 4.30am: get up and walk for 3 hours, climb all day, walk out.

Sunday: repeat the above or ski (harder than climbing but more of a lie in!), long drive home, sleep

During the week I’m teaching, catching up on sleep, training and…getting psyched for the weekend! The last couple of weekends have followed this pattern, In fact since the end of December I’ve spent only one weekend at home! It’s 100% worth it though. In his latest blog post, CGR UK co-editor, Dave Sarkar asks the question: “Does climbing make you happy..?”

So to answer Dave’s question here are a few images from the last couple of trips to the Ben, I’ll let you make your own mind up!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/p1020942.jpg?w=576&h=1024) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/p1020942.jpg)Chris Reid, leading steep ground on Sioux Wall VIII 8, Ben Nevis 22/1/2011 (Photo Kev Avery) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/p1221481.jpg?w=576&h=768) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/p1221481.jpg)Kev Avery belayed by Chris Reid on Sioux Wall VIII 8, Ben Nevis (Copyright Victoria Crookes). The mixed climbs around Number 3 Gully have been in superb condition over the last couple of weeks. All of the classics have had ascents and the hard additions of Apache VIII 9 and To Those Who Wait IX 9, have both had second ascents. Standards are most definitely on the up. (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/p1020968.jpg?w=576&h=806) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/p1020968.jpg)An unknown climber enjoys Winter Chimney, V 5 on Ben Nevis, 29/1/2011 (Photo Kev Avery) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/scotland-1-of-6.jpg?w=576&h=1024) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/scotland-1-of-6.jpg)Kev Avery leading pitch 2 of the Ben Nevis classic, Darth Vader VII 8, climbed with Adam Lincoln on 29/1/2011 (Copyright Adam Lincoln) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/scotland-3-of-6.jpg?w=576&h=864) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/scotland-3-of-6.jpg)Kev Avery about to enter the chimney proper near the end of pitch 2 on Darth Vader, VII 8, Ben Nevis (Copyright Adam Lincoln) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/darth-vader-3.jpg?w=576&h=768) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/darth-vader-3.jpg)Kev Avery leading the crux pitch 3 of Darth Vader, VII 8 on Ben Nevis (Copyright Bob Wightman) Winter Conditions and Weather Links Climbing Kit

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Title: Climbing Gear Review – Arc’teryx Phase AR Half Zip Base Layer Top
Post by: comPiler on February 16, 2011, 06:00:25 pm
Climbing Gear Review – Arc’teryx Phase AR Half Zip Base Layer Top (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/02/16/climbing-gear-review-arcteryx-phase-ar-half-zip-base-layer-top-climbing-gear/)
16 February 2011, 3:15 pm

A new Phase in base layers from Arc’teryx… (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx1.jpg?w=180&h=118) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx1.jpg) Rating (out of 5)

 Performance: *****



Quality: *****



Value For Money: *****

Price: £45.00

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/f10-phase-ar-zip-neck-miro-blue.jpg?w=512&h=512) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/f10-phase-ar-zip-neck-miro-blue.jpg)The Arc'teryx Phase Ar Zip Neck The Phase range of base layers, from Canadian uber-brand Arc’teryx, sounds nothing new on the face of it. You wear it next to the skin and it breathes, transporting moisture away from the surface of your skin during sweaty pursuits like running, climbing and ski touring. When you stop for a break, or to belay your mate, you don’t cool down as rapidly because the sweat has been transported away from your skin. Most base layers do this to a degree, but some are definitely better than others.

The Phase AR Zip Neck (http://www.arcteryx.com/Product.aspx?EN/Mens/Base_Layer/Phase-AR-Zip-Neck-LS) is a lightly insulated (I’d call it midweight, heavyweight being stuff like Powerstretch and Patagonia’s R1 garments), long sleeve, base layer top with a half length zip for easy venting. Arc’teryx claim it is engineered, “for optimal moisture management during stop-and-go activities.”

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/img_0257.jpg?w=611&h=819) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/img_0257.jpg)The Arc'teryx Phase Ar Zip Neck in use ski touring, Switzerland, New Year's day 2011 So how does the Phase fabric work? Arc’teryx claim:

“During active phases moisture is wicked across the entire garment, aiding temperature regulation. Entering a rest phase the broadly dispersed moisture evaporates quickly, speeding dry-time to keep the user warmer and more comfortable.”

So, back specifically, to the AR top. I have worn it next to my skin all winter for everything from long runs in the Yorkshire Dales, ice and mixed routes in Scotland and the Lakes, ski touring in the Alps, razzing down Scottish pistes and bouldering on the local grit.

Video: The Phase on test in Les Houches, France

In short, it is a fantastic top, superbly cut (not quite “tailor bespoke” but pretty close); the fabric stretches with the body, is comfortable next to the skin and the quality of workmanship is high.

I particularly liked the extra length in the body, which means it doesn’t ride up when I’ve tucked it in to my bottom layer. The sleeves are also amply long enough so that they don’t ride up when you’ve got your hands above your head. Ease of movement when wearing the Phase top, is also enhanced by the anatomical shaping of the garment (it’s designed with the shape of your body in mind!) and the inclusion of underarm gussets.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/p1020876.jpg?w=524&h=295) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/p1020876.jpg)The Phase AR Zip Neck from Arc'teryx worn under a Gore Proshell hardshell for a damp walk into Creagh Meagaidh Other features to bear in mind when thinking about comfort are the stretchy characteristics of the Phase fabric (which stretches without the addition of any Spandex or similar fibres) as well as the flat seams, laminated chin guard and bonded, non-chafing label. All of these elements help to create a garment that is comfortable to wear all day, every day. No chafing, no itching, no restriction and surprisingly, no stench!

On the subject of odor, the Phase appears to retain minimal amounts, well as far as my sense of smell can tell anyway! The fabric incorporates encapsulated silver ions which are supposed to provide durable odor control. And it appears to work! I have worn this top for 8 straight days and whilst in other base layers I would barely have been able to share a room with myself, in the Phase the odor levels were pretty minimal.

However, whilst all these things are important in a base layer, the main question is always going to be, does it breathe and wick moisture away from your body?

Like I said earlier I have used the Phase AR top for a variety of pursuits ranging from sedate to highly aerobic, with a lot of stop-start in between. Worn next to the skin I have found that moisture transportation during aerobic activities, has been generally awesome. I still get a damp back when lugging my climbing pack up to the Ben or wherever it is I am going, but this soon dries out when I stop (quicker than most other base layers I have used) and I would be more than interested in testing any base layer that gets rid of this problem. During constant exertions such as running breathability is excellent and the Phase dries quickly once I’ve stopped.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/p1020879.jpg?w=461&h=819) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/p1020879.jpg)Having tackled the 2 hour walk in with a heavy pack, I feel cofortably dry when I stop thanks to the breathability and excellent wicking performance of the Phase AR Zip Neck from Arc'teryx The half zip gives extra venting and allows you to tailor the breathability depending upon chosen activities and weather conditions. I’d like to see a more glove-friendly zipper tab as standard with winter in mind though.

Because the Phase AR is a mid weight it is also excellent for less aerobic activities such as rock climbing. It feels much warmer than it’s weight suggests and it is also very wind resistant (although not 100% windproof). This top is ideal as a cold weather base layer but will be too warm (for most) as a base layer during the summer months. Perhaps try the Phase SL Crew instead.

It will however, be perfect as a light insulating layer for those cooler summer’s days and I’ll definitely be giving mine a few outings on the UK mountain crags as well as in the Alps and Dolomites this summer. The half zip that I mentioned earlier will help with ventilation, particularly in the summer months, so this feature adds to the garment’s versatility.

In Conclusion The Phase AR is an excellent mid weight base layer, constructed from a superbly durable and breathable stretch fabric. I particularly like the cut, length and moisture transportation as well as the fact I don’t smell like a skunk after multiple days of use.

Use the Phase AR Zip as a base layer for all your winter pursuits. However it would be nice to see a glove friendly zipper tab.



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Title: Climbing Gear Review – Arc’teryx Phase AR Half Zip Neck Base Layer Top
Post by: comPiler on February 17, 2011, 12:00:23 am
Climbing Gear Review – Arc’teryx Phase AR Half Zip Neck Base Layer Top (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/02/16/climbing-gear-review-arcteryx-phase-ar-half-zip-base-layer-top-review/)
16 February 2011, 3:15 pm

A new Phase in base layers from Arc’teryx… (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx1.jpg?w=180&h=118) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx1.jpg) Rating (out of 5)

 Performance: *****



Quality: *****



Value For Money: *****

Price: £45.00

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/f10-phase-ar-zip-neck-miro-blue.jpg?w=512&h=512) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/f10-phase-ar-zip-neck-miro-blue.jpg)The Arc'teryx Phase Ar Zip Neck The Phase range of base layers, from Canadian uber-brand Arc’teryx, sounds nothing new on the face of it. You wear it next to the skin and it breathes, transporting moisture away from the surface of your skin during sweaty pursuits like running, climbing and ski touring. When you stop for a break, or to belay your mate, you don’t cool down as rapidly because the sweat has been transported away from your skin. Most base layers do this to a degree, but some are definitely better than others.

The Phase AR Zip Neck (http://www.arcteryx.com/Product.aspx?EN/Mens/Base_Layer/Phase-AR-Zip-Neck-LS) is a lightly insulated (I’d call it midweight, heavyweight being stuff like Powerstretch and Patagonia’s R1 garments), long sleeve, base layer top with a half length zip for easy venting. Arc’teryx claim it is engineered, “for optimal moisture management during stop-and-go activities.”

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/img_0257.jpg?w=611&h=819) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/img_0257.jpg)The Arc'teryx Phase Ar Zip Neck in use ski touring, Switzerland, New Year's day 2011 So how does the Phase fabric work? Arc’teryx claim:

“During active phases moisture is wicked across the entire garment, aiding temperature regulation. Entering a rest phase the broadly dispersed moisture evaporates quickly, speeding dry-time to keep the user warmer and more comfortable.”

So, back specifically, to the AR top. I have worn it next to my skin all winter for everything from long runs in the Yorkshire Dales, ice and mixed routes in Scotland and the Lakes, ski touring in the Alps, razzing down Scottish pistes and bouldering on the local grit.

Video: The Phase on test in Les Houches, France

In short, it is a fantastic top, superbly cut (not quite “tailor bespoke” but pretty close); the fabric stretches with the body, is comfortable next to the skin and the quality of workmanship is high.

I particularly liked the extra length in the body, which means it doesn’t ride up when I’ve tucked it in to my bottom layer. The sleeves are also amply long enough so that they don’t ride up when you’ve got your hands above your head. Ease of movement when wearing the Phase top, is also enhanced by the anatomical shaping of the garment (it’s designed with the shape of your body in mind!) and the inclusion of underarm gussets.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/p1020876.jpg?w=524&h=295) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/p1020876.jpg)The Phase AR Zip Neck from Arc'teryx worn under a Gore Proshell hardshell for a damp walk into Creagh Meagaidh Other features to bear in mind when thinking about comfort are the stretchy characteristics of the Phase fabric (which stretches without the addition of any Spandex or similar fibres) as well as the flat seams, laminated chin guard and bonded, non-chafing label. All of these elements help to create a garment that is comfortable to wear all day, every day. No chafing, no itching, no restriction and surprisingly, no stench!

On the subject of odor, the Phase appears to retain minimal amounts, well as far as my sense of smell can tell anyway! The fabric incorporates encapsulated silver ions which are supposed to provide durable odor control. And it appears to work! I have worn this top for 8 straight days and whilst in other base layers I would barely have been able to share a room with myself, in the Phase the odor levels were pretty minimal.

However, whilst all these things are important in a base layer, the main question is always going to be, does it breathe and wick moisture away from your body?

Like I said earlier I have used the Phase AR top for a variety of pursuits ranging from sedate to highly aerobic, with a lot of stop-start in between. Worn next to the skin I have found that moisture transportation during aerobic activities, has been generally awesome. I still get a damp back when lugging my climbing pack up to the Ben or wherever it is I am going, but this soon dries out when I stop (quicker than most other base layers I have used) and I would be more than interested in testing any base layer that gets rid of this problem. During constant exertions such as running breathability is excellent and the Phase dries quickly once I’ve stopped.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/p1020879.jpg?w=461&h=819) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/p1020879.jpg)Having tackled the 2 hour walk in with a heavy pack, I feel cofortably dry when I stop thanks to the breathability and excellent wicking performance of the Phase AR Zip Neck from Arc'teryx The half zip gives extra venting and allows you to tailor the breathability depending upon chosen activities and weather conditions. I’d like to see a more glove-friendly zipper tab as standard with winter in mind though.

Because the Phase AR is a mid weight it is also excellent for less aerobic activities such as rock climbing. It feels much warmer than it’s weight suggests and it is also very wind resistant (although not 100% windproof). This top is ideal as a cold weather base layer but will be too warm (for most) as a base layer during the summer months. Perhaps try the Phase SL Crew instead.

It will however, be perfect as a light insulating layer for those cooler summer’s days and I’ll definitely be giving mine a few outings on the UK mountain crags as well as in the Alps and Dolomites this summer. The half zip that I mentioned earlier will help with ventilation, particularly in the summer months, so this feature adds to the garment’s versatility.

In Conclusion The Phase AR is an excellent mid weight base layer, constructed from a superbly durable and breathable stretch fabric. I particularly like the cut, length and moisture transportation as well as the fact I don’t smell like a skunk after multiple days of use.

Use the Phase AR Zip as a base layer for all your winter pursuits. However it would be nice to see a glove friendly zipper tab.



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Title: Gear News – Patagonia London Flagship Store
Post by: comPiler on February 18, 2011, 06:00:12 pm
Gear News – Patagonia London Flagship Store (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/02/18/gear-news-patagonia-london-flagship-store-patagonia-clothing-uk-stockists/)
18 February 2011, 1:07 pm

Summer 2011 sees the highly anticipated opening of Patagonia’s first UK flagship store! (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/patagonia-shop-2-small161.jpg?w=524&h=350) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/patagonia-shop-2-small161.jpg)The Patagonia store, Hathersage, Peak District UK  

Ideally situated in the heart of London, Patagonia is proud to announce the opening of its first UK Flagship store in Covent Garden. With 2,500sq ft of retail space, the store will be a showcase for the full Patagonia offering from core technical alpine and ski/snowboard products, to Patagonia’s renowned lifestyle range and the new footwear collections. 

This will be a partner store in collaboration with Outside, who successfully opened Patagonia’s Hathersage store in the Peak District and continue to be passionate supporters of the brand. As with all Patagonia stores, the Covent Garden space was selected in keeping with Patagonia’s retail brief, to use historic sites and to preserve the integrity of the building.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/patagonia-shop-3-small161.jpg?w=512&h=341) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/patagonia-shop-3-small161.jpg)

This is certainly the case in Covent Garden, whereby this listed location was formally part of the Watney Combe & Reid brewery, founded in 1837, which produced the popular Watney’s Red Barrel beer. Furthermore, the basement of the premises formally housed the fruit and vegetables, which were stored ready for the Covent Garden market.  

Patagonia and Outside intend to work collaboratively with the architects to ensure sensitivity when working with the historical aspects of this unique space, which they hope will in turn be enhanced by the bespoke fixtures and fittings which are to be sourced. 

Robert Cohen, Patagonia’s VP of Global Retail comments;

“We want our stores to be gifts to their communities. Because we’re trying to create a living, breathing, version of the brand, we view the building as much a part of the story, as the products inside.”

??Patagonia’ s European Marketing Manager, Jonathan Petty adds;

“The owners of Patagonia, Yvon and Malinda Chouinard, have for many years wanted  to open a London store. We’re very excited to be opening in one of Europe’s premier cities, and hope this will continue to drive the fantastic momentum the brand currently has in Europe”??   The store opens Summer 2011.  

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Title: Climbing Gear Review – Arc’teryx Atom SV Hoody; the ultimate climbing jacket?
Post by: comPiler on February 23, 2011, 12:00:17 am
Climbing Gear Review – Arc’teryx Atom SV Hoody; the ultimate climbing jacket? (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/02/22/climbing-gear-review-arcteryx-atom-sv-hoody-belay-jacket-winter-jacket/)
22 February 2011, 7:50 pm

 The Arc’teryx Atom SV Hoody – is it an improvement on the LT Hoody…? Rating (out of 5) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx1.jpg?w=192&h=126) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx1.jpg)

 Performance: *****



Quality: *****



Value For Money: ****

Price: £200.00

 

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/f10-atom-sv-hoody-naranja.jpg?w=640&h=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/f10-atom-sv-hoody-naranja.jpg)The Arc'teryx Atom SV Hoody - an ultralight, weatherproof mid layer.  

Arc’teryx Atom SV Hoody – review by Climbing Gear Reviews UK In the summer of 2010 I reviewed an Arc’teryx Atom LT jacket for UKC http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=2208

For that review I concluded that the only thing better would be an Atom LT Hoody, well since then I’ve looked hard at the LT hoody and I’ve now been using the new SV Hoody for the winter 2010/11 season.  The SV stands for severe weather and is described as their warmest and toughest midlayer garment, so is it fit for purpose? I’ll start with the technicalities:

The outer material is Gossamera, a superlight and compressible ripstop nylon; it had that satisfying checked pattern that inspires confidence in its durability. The Gossamera fabric is the same material that the Squamish is made from, Arc’teryx state that the fabric has an air permeability of 7 CFM. Which means that it’s pretty good as far as breathability is concerned, further wicking is provided by a Tricot lining at the armpit, this area was also uninsulated further enhancing the breathability, a very well thought out area and a great compromise to the Atom LT with its powerstretch inserts. In test I found the jacket very warm, too warm for aerobic work in normal UK winter conditions and I even had to take it off when soloing easy icefalls, the jacket did get damp through sweat but dried out very quickly, even stood still with just body heat.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/atom-snowshoe.jpg?w=512&h=384) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/atom-snowshoe.jpg)Arc'teryx Atom SV Hoody -ideal for sports like snowshoeing or backcountry skiing. As well as a DWR the fabric has a light polyurethane coating on the inner face, which helps with water resistance. The fact that the fabric is air permeable means the PU coating is microporous, or discontinuous.  Arc’teryx said the coating was very thin and evenly applied by a fabric mill in Japan known for their coating technology. I found the jacket repelled light showers and snow easily, but soon got saturated in consistent rain and wet snow, the addition of a lightweight hardshell just made me overheat very quickly. If you run cold though, this would be a great combination as you could walk in just a baselayer, wear the SV Hoody to climb in and supplement it with a Paclite jacket when the going gets damp, wet or too windy.

The jacket was lined with a silver grey nylon to help with heat retention and the pockets were lined with one side of Tricot – I found this a little disappointing and thought that a jacket with this sort of pedigree could have provided a better tactile experience in the pockets. There was a zipped internal chest pocket on the left hand side I would have liked to see the addition of a large, inner mesh pocket for storing food, spare gloves etc, it would have really enhanced the belay style and added very little to the weight.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/arcteryx-sv-ice-climbing.jpg?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/arcteryx-sv-ice-climbing.jpg)Arc'teryx SV Hoody -great for fast moving ice routes. The stitching was of the excellent quality you would expect with an Arc’teryx product, the sleeves are articulated and this helped reduced sleeve lift when making high axe placements. The sleeve cuff design is the same as the LT versions; I felt this is where the jacket was let down for climbers in my LT review and I still think that is the case. The cuffs are fine, in fact great with no gloves on as they are really tight fitting and help retain heat and keep your wrists warm, they also fit nicely with approach gloves on, especially silk, powerdry or merino gloves as I could easily take the jacket off and the sleeves slid over the gloves nicely. They were also fine with gauntlet style ice climbing gloves as they fitted well over the cuffs. The jacket was much more difficult to use with the more supple type of glove that I use for UK winter climbing, too bulky for the sleeve to go over and I always ended up turning the sleeves inside out at belays and changeovers.

The hood was excellent, it was easy to adjust with gloves on, except the ones that were inside the jacket which could prove tricky to find if you were caught out in a storm, as the lock was hidden in the collar. They were, however all very easy to use with the single strand and the great advantage of having the adjusting straps inside the jacket is there are no loose straps to whip your face to shreds in that raging gale. It easily accommodated my climbing helmet and was stiffened with a small, neat plastic insert.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/atom-hood.jpg?w=300&h=225) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/atom-hood.jpg)The hood was brilliant, eay to adjust, really warm and plenty big enough for a helmet. The insulation is provided by 100g/m2 of Coreloft, this is a mixture of large and smaller polyester fibres, the larger fibres provide the loft and the smaller fibres boosting the thermal efficiency. The loft was excellent, always super buoyant and the jacket felt very warm due to the complete insulation (unlike the LT versions that have powerstretch side panels).   I loved the small details like the drop back hem, this clever little feature really helped retained the loft around the waist when the hem was cinched and the tiny internal collar to help keep wind and spindrift from the back of your neck, just the sort of excellent details you’d expect from Arc’teryx. The combination of Gossamera and Coreloft really meant that the jacket was highly compressible. It easily fitted into an Exped XS drybag and no matter how stuffed my pack was it squeezed into the smallest cavity, I even got into the lid pocket! Arc’teryx  do not advocate stuffing it into the inside pocket, as it is not designed for this, they say you should fold it into a sleeve; which worked perfectly well for storage into travel luggage, etc.

The main zip is a YKK Vislon and this seem to repel water very well and worked a treat in all conditions, even frozen. The pocket zips were standard YKK zips and also worked well, but are not waterproof; they all worked well with gloves. The articulated elbows and gusseted elbows meant that the jacket was good to climb in, there was very little ride with a harness on and I used it for winter climbing regularly where it performed faultlessly, even in the most foul of conditions. I was terrified of putting an ice screw through it mind and I don’t think it would last long at all if you were to wear it as your sole UK winter climbing jacket.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/atom-belay.jpg?w=491&h=655) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/atom-belay.jpg)Perfect as a winter belay jacket for single pitch winter climbing in good weather. So, in conclusion, another superb jacket from one of the best manufacturers out there. Well designed with great features. My recommended uses would be as a warming layer on cold days where you are moving; skiing, mountaineering, snowshoeing and it can be used a climbing jacket. It would make an ideal rock climbing and summer alpine belay jacket and is also a great looking jacket for the winter commute. It is most definitely a big improvement on the LT Hoody.

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Title: Gear News – Llanberis Mountain Film Festival: adventure in heart of Wales
Post by: comPiler on March 05, 2011, 06:00:13 pm
Gear News – Llanberis Mountain Film Festival: adventure in heart of Wales (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/03/05/gear-news-llanberis-mountain-film-festival-adventure-in-heart-of-wales/)
5 March 2011, 12:42 pm

Llanberis Mountain Film Festival March 18th – 20th 2011 (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/llamff_logo.jpg?w=300&h=174) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/llamff_logo.jpg)

The Llanberis Mountain Film Festival, aka LLAMFF (http://www.llamff.co.uk/), is a celebration of the ‘mountain experience’ taking place over the weekend of March 18th – 20th in North Wales. Expect to see the finest films on exploration and adventure, culture and environment, and mountain sports from around the world. A stunning line up of speakers will also give you the chance to hear first-hand the stories that make the headlines including some from the perspective of behind the lens.Based at the foot of the iconic Llanberis Pass and Snowdon, the magnificent backdrop couldn’t be more appropriate, attracting as it does walkers and climbers all year round seeking their own  adventure.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/keith-partridge-adventure-cameraman.jpg?w=300&h=200) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/keith-partridge-adventure-cameraman.jpg)LLAMFF (http://www.llamff.co.uk/) promises to be an inspirational festival in an inspirational setting. The backbone of the festival is the international film competition together with the best films from the Banff Mountain Festival, but with so many speakers and other events in the programme you’ll always find the eclectic and unexpected at LLAMFF (http://www.llamff.co.uk/).

If you’ve ever wondered what it takes to be an adventurecameraman at the top of your game then don’t miss Keith Partridge on the Saturday evening. Keith was one of the camera crew behindthe spectacular and current BBC series, The Human Planet. Keith’s behind the scenes stories and footage of ‘close calls’ will leave you in no doubt as to how far you sometimes have to push it to get thatshot. Mountaineer, Al Hinkes, the only Brit and one of only twelve people alive who have summited all the World’s fourteen 8000 metre peaks- the same number of people that have stood on the moon – is another adventurer speaking at LLAMFF who knows all about the drive and determination required to succeed at the highest level.

Since the first LLAMFF in 2002 it has become an annual festival and the main supporting sponsor once again is the premier outdoor clothing manufacturer Mountain Equipment. Vote for the best film and presentation and if you get it right then you could win a £300 Mountain Equipment voucher.

Festival highlights also include:

• Big screen HD (High Definition) experience.

• Andy Turner – With the second ascent of The Hurting (XI 11)under his belt this winter he knows what Pushing the Limits of Winter Climbing is all about.

• Paul Diffley – Climbers I’ve Shot and some Climbers I’d like to Shoot – Award winning cameraman behind Hot Aches Productions.

• Ian Parnell – British Style – A rollercoaster ride through the mountain life.

• Snowdonia 2050 – Think Question Time discussing the ecologyof Snowdonia in 2050 and balancing the needs of recreationand conservation.

• Steve McClure and Lucy Creamer – The Slackers Guide Reloaded – What drives their ambition to climb at the highest level?

• Family Fun – orienteering by Sprayway. Free kayaking,canoeing and climbing sessions (min. age 8 yrs) on the Saturday organised by the Outdoor Partnership. Photographic treasure hunt and competition for the youngsters.

• George Smith and Noel Craine’s Famous (Almost) Climbing Quiz on the Friday night.

• Mountain artists Andy Parkin and Rowan Huntley.

• ‘Hands on’ adventure sports injury workshops from Snowdonia Sports Medicine (Zac Larraman). Learn about Muscle Energy Technique with plenty of opportunity to quiz Zac about injury prevention and rehabilitation.

• Beacon Climbing master class and bouldering competition.

Weekend and session tickets are available now at Joe Brown (tel:01286 870327) and V12 Outdoor (tel: 01286 871534) or online at their websites. More info at http://www.llamff.co.uk/ and you can also follow the latest LLAMFF (http://www.llamff.co.uk/) news on Facebook.

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Title: Gear News – Llanberis Mountain Film Festival: adventure in the heart of Wales
Post by: comPiler on March 07, 2011, 12:01:01 am
Gear News – Llanberis Mountain Film Festival: adventure in the heart of Wales (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/03/05/gear-news-llanberis-mountain-film-festival-adventure-in-heart-of-wales/)
5 March 2011, 12:42 pm

Llanberis Mountain Film Festival March 18th – 20th 2011 (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/llamff_logo.jpg?w=300&h=174) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/llamff_logo.jpg)

The Llanberis Mountain Film Festival, aka LLAMFF (http://www.llamff.co.uk/), is a celebration of the ‘mountain experience’ taking place over the weekend of March 18th – 20th in North Wales. Expect to see the finest films on exploration and adventure, culture and environment, and mountain sports from around the world. A stunning line up of speakers will also give you the chance to hear first-hand the stories that make the headlines including some from the perspective of behind the lens.Based at the foot of the iconic Llanberis Pass and Snowdon, the magnificent backdrop couldn’t be more appropriate, attracting as it does walkers and climbers all year round seeking their own  adventure.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/keith-partridge-adventure-cameraman.jpg?w=300&h=200) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/keith-partridge-adventure-cameraman.jpg)LLAMFF (http://www.llamff.co.uk/) promises to be an inspirational festival in an inspirational setting. The backbone of the festival is the international film competition together with the best films from the Banff Mountain Festival, but with so many speakers and other events in the programme you’ll always find the eclectic and unexpected at LLAMFF (http://www.llamff.co.uk/).

If you’ve ever wondered what it takes to be an adventurecameraman at the top of your game then don’t miss Keith Partridge on the Saturday evening. Keith was one of the camera crew behindthe spectacular and current BBC series, The Human Planet. Keith’s behind the scenes stories and footage of ‘close calls’ will leave you in no doubt as to how far you sometimes have to push it to get thatshot. Mountaineer, Al Hinkes, the only Brit and one of only twelve people alive who have summited all the World’s fourteen 8000 metre peaks- the same number of people that have stood on the moon – is another adventurer speaking at LLAMFF who knows all about the drive and determination required to succeed at the highest level.

Since the first LLAMFF in 2002 it has become an annual festival and the main supporting sponsor once again is the premier outdoor clothing manufacturer Mountain Equipment. Vote for the best film and presentation and if you get it right then you could win a £300 Mountain Equipment voucher.

Festival highlights also include:

• Big screen HD (High Definition) experience.

• Andy Turner – With the second ascent of The Hurting (XI 11)under his belt this winter he knows what Pushing the Limits of Winter Climbing is all about.

• Paul Diffley – Climbers I’ve Shot and some Climbers I’d like to Shoot – Award winning cameraman behind Hot Aches Productions.

• Ian Parnell – British Style – A rollercoaster ride through the mountain life.

• Snowdonia 2050 – Think Question Time discussing the ecologyof Snowdonia in 2050 and balancing the needs of recreationand conservation.

• Steve McClure and Lucy Creamer – The Slackers Guide Reloaded – What drives their ambition to climb at the highest level?

• Family Fun – orienteering by Sprayway. Free kayaking,canoeing and climbing sessions (min. age 8 yrs) on the Saturday organised by the Outdoor Partnership. Photographic treasure hunt and competition for the youngsters.

• George Smith and Noel Craine’s Famous (Almost) Climbing Quiz on the Friday night.

• Mountain artists Andy Parkin and Rowan Huntley.

• ‘Hands on’ adventure sports injury workshops from Snowdonia Sports Medicine (Zac Larraman). Learn about Muscle Energy Technique with plenty of opportunity to quiz Zac about injury prevention and rehabilitation.

• Beacon Climbing master class and bouldering competition.

Weekend and session tickets are available now at Joe Brown (tel:01286 870327) and V12 Outdoor (tel: 01286 871534) or online at their websites. More info at http://www.llamff.co.uk/ and you can also follow the latest LLAMFF (http://www.llamff.co.uk/) news on Facebook.

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Title: Climbing Gear Review – Black Diamond Punisher Gloves
Post by: comPiler on March 10, 2011, 12:00:14 pm
Climbing Gear Review – Black Diamond Punisher Gloves (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/03/10/climbing-gear-review-black-diamond-punisher-gloves/)
10 March 2011, 10:26 am

Black Diamond have revamped thier Punisher Gloves for 2011, are they the ultimate winter climbing glove?   (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/bd-punisher.jpg?w=300&h=289) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/bd-punisher.jpg) Black Diamond Punisher Glove – green is the new black.    If there is one item of winter kit sure to generate plenty of discussion on climbing forums it’ll be gloves. I personally have spent a small fortune on gloves and tried many different kinds of glove systems. One of the funniest being on a trip to Norway when I proudly displayed my £7.50 B&Q work gloves, I then had to endure the double humiliation of them wearing through on an abseil off Vermork Bridge and my hands being so cold on Rjukanfossen that I couldn’t unclip the screws off the rope to put them onto my harness. Not surprisingly, they were quickly relegated to, well, work gloves.

I had been using, quite successfully, for two seasons a glove system that comprised a leather outer and separate woollen inners. So I was quite excited when a pair of Black Diamond Punisher gloves arrived, would they make me change my current system, read on….

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/p1010699.jpg?w=203&h=270) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/p1010699.jpg)Double stitched reinforced thumb area, makes for a durable work area. The gloves are the mark 3 2011 gloves, they came in a ‘non conspicuous’ Lime Green, but also come in Black for those of you who prefer to be more discreet. The outer is made from Black Diamonds own BDry waterproof insert, which proved as effective as GoreTex or Event, this was topped with an tough, abrasion resistant shell.   The palms and work areas were made from goat leather and featured a double layer around the high wearing Thenar region (that meaty area at the base of your thumb). This was great for all kinds of rope work and gripping my axes, I have in the past worn gloves out in this region, especially on multiple abs when the gloves are wet. The leather also was capped around the fingertips for added durability. I have used the gloves for abs, belaying and even mixed climbing all winter and they have shown no signs of wear. They should easily last another season or two.

The wrist tab was also made of goat leather, this made for a beefy and easily adjustable tightening system and meant I could easily cinch the gloves tight and tuck them under my jacket sleeves for any technical work. The backs were padded using EVA foam (ethylene-vinyl-acetate, a tough foamed polythene) and were very good at protecting my hands for those types of moves where I’m reaching over ice bulges to place my axe in good ice at the back and even provided some extra warmth when plunging up those snowy approaches (did they stop the hot aches? Well no, but then nothing will when you’re plunging!). The pattern has reverted to the Mark 1 punishers horizontal bands, which provides a much better surface area. There was a middle finger tab for assisting in drying the gloves, this easily accommodated karabiners of all sizes. I found the gloves dried out really quickly using moderate heat as long as they were suspended using the finger tabs.

The inners have a 100g fleece inner, the spec said that the fleece was fixed and I assumed that the fleece was bonded to the inner. In fact it was fixed in the usual

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/p1010708.jpg?w=203&h=270) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/p1010708.jpg)Richie Allen, taking a breather on Sogni de Patagonia WI5  way: that is sewn into the finger tips and the base of the gloves. This is where I felt the gloves let me down a little; when I climb I often have to take the gloves off for very fiddly jobs such as getting the ropes though the belay plate and into the screw gate, or placing small wires. When I try to get the gloves back on with damp hands getting my little finger back in place can be a real pain when the inner has twisted slightly. This has happen on plenty of glove systems and happened with the Punishers. I fully understand that there can often be a feeling of slippage if the inner is not fixed to the fingers, so I guess that Black Diamond have opted for performance.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/bd-punisher-lakes.jpg?w=168&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/bd-punisher-lakes.jpg)BD Punisher gloves - a great all round winter glove. Overall I feel the gloves are an improvement over the Mark 2 and it’s nice to have a choice of colour other than Black or Grey. The glove will fulfil most of your climbing requirements and are warm under all but the most extreme UK winter conditions; they are dextrous and durable and should last 2 or 3 seasons of normal abuse. They excel in mixed climbing situations where you will need the dexterity to place rock gear and removing ice screws, especially at that nervous point where the screw is about to come out and you terrified of dropping it. Are they the ultimate winter glove….. yes, they probably are, but you’ll need a pair of warmer gloves for belaying and seconding unless you have boilers for hands. A great improvement on a classic glove.

 

 

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Title: Gear News – Fourth Ice Climbing Festival in Pontresina, 26th-27th March 2011
Post by: comPiler on March 17, 2011, 12:00:30 am
Gear News – Fourth Ice Climbing Festival in Pontresina, 26th-27th March 2011 (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/03/16/gear-news-fourth-ice-climbing-festival-in-pontresina-26th-27th-march-2011/)
16 March 2011, 9:31 pm

The longest and highest ice competition in Europe The Ice Climbing Festival in Pontresina, Switzerland will take place on March 26 th and 27th for the fourth time. Ice climbers from all over Europe will meet at the tail end of the season for this special event. There will be a speed-climbing competition on the man made icefall below the gondola in the Diavolezza ski area, at 2800 meters above sea level in alpine terrain.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/pon1.jpg?w=213&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/pon1.jpg)

On Saturday 26 March 2011, there will be an impressive speed climbing competition on the man-made ice below Diavolezza. Teams of two will be competing over several pitches. Head-to-head, qualifying heats will be performed on one-pitch top roped climbs. The two fastest teams in each group will qualify for the finals. There will be two parallel top rope routes of about 100 meters. The team with the fastest combined time on both routes wins this one-of-a-kind speed-climbing competition.

The workshops on Sunday 27 March 2011 are open to all who want to try ice climbing for the first time or who want to pick up new tricks from some of the world’s leading ice climbing athletes. Top climbers Pietro dal Pra and Jack Müller will show their tips and tricks to small groups in a secure setting with mountain guides. Ice climbing equipment will be provided for testing all day.

In case of bad weather, the competition and workshops will be completely canceled. We decide on Wednesday, March 23rd 2011. The ice party takes place on Saturday night, in the “Talstation Languard Beizli” in Pontresina with a pasta dinner and a DJ for the music act; we‘ll celebrate anyway!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/pon2.jpg?w=212&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/pon2.jpg)

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Title: Climbing Gear Review – Arc’teryx Phase AR Top
Post by: comPiler on March 22, 2011, 12:00:41 am
Climbing Gear Review – Arc’teryx Phase AR Top (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/02/16/climbing-gear-review-arcteryx-phase-ar-half-zip-base-layer-top-review/)
16 February 2011, 3:15 pm

A new Phase in base layers from Arc’teryx… (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx1.jpg?w=180&h=118) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx1.jpg) Rating (out of 5)

 Performance: *****



Quality: *****



Value For Money: *****

Price: £45.00

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/f10-phase-ar-zip-neck-miro-blue.jpg?w=512&h=512) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/f10-phase-ar-zip-neck-miro-blue.jpg)The Arc'teryx Phase Ar Zip Neck The Phase range of base layers, from Canadian uber-brand Arc’teryx, sounds nothing new on the face of it. You wear it next to the skin and it breathes, transporting moisture away from the surface of your skin during sweaty pursuits like running, climbing and ski touring. When you stop for a break, or to belay your mate, you don’t cool down as rapidly because the sweat has been transported away from your skin. Most base layers do this to a degree, but some are definitely better than others.

The Phase AR Zip Neck (http://www.arcteryx.com/Product.aspx?EN/Mens/Base_Layer/Phase-AR-Zip-Neck-LS) is a lightly insulated (I’d call it midweight, heavyweight being stuff like Powerstretch and Patagonia’s R1 garments), long sleeve, base layer top with a half length zip for easy venting. Arc’teryx claim it is engineered, “for optimal moisture management during stop-and-go activities.”

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/img_0257.jpg?w=611&h=819) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/img_0257.jpg)The Arc'teryx Phase Ar Zip Neck in use ski touring, Switzerland, New Year's day 2011 So how does the Phase fabric work? Arc’teryx claim:

“During active phases moisture is wicked across the entire garment, aiding temperature regulation. Entering a rest phase the broadly dispersed moisture evaporates quickly, speeding dry-time to keep the user warmer and more comfortable.”

So, back specifically, to the AR top. I have worn it next to my skin all winter for everything from long runs in the Yorkshire Dales, ice and mixed routes in Scotland and the Lakes, ski touring in the Alps, razzing down Scottish pistes and bouldering on the local grit.

Video: The Phase on test in Les Houches, France

In short, it is a fantastic top, superbly cut (not quite “tailor bespoke” but pretty close); the fabric stretches with the body, is comfortable next to the skin and the quality of workmanship is high.

I particularly liked the extra length in the body, which means it doesn’t ride up when I’ve tucked it in to my bottom layer. The sleeves are also amply long enough so that they don’t ride up when you’ve got your hands above your head. Ease of movement when wearing the Phase top, is also enhanced by the anatomical shaping of the garment (it’s designed with the shape of your body in mind!) and the inclusion of underarm gussets.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/p1020876.jpg?w=524&h=295) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/p1020876.jpg)The Phase AR Zip Neck from Arc'teryx worn under a Gore Proshell hardshell for a damp walk into Creagh Meagaidh Other features to bear in mind when thinking about comfort are the stretchy characteristics of the Phase fabric (which stretches without the addition of any Spandex or similar fibres) as well as the flat seams, laminated chin guard and bonded, non-chafing label. All of these elements help to create a garment that is comfortable to wear all day, every day. No chafing, no itching, no restriction and surprisingly, no stench!

On the subject of odor, the Phase appears to retain minimal amounts, well as far as my sense of smell can tell anyway! The fabric incorporates encapsulated silver ions which are supposed to provide durable odor control. And it appears to work! I have worn this top for 8 straight days and whilst in other base layers I would barely have been able to share a room with myself, in the Phase the odor levels were pretty minimal.

However, whilst all these things are important in a base layer, the main question is always going to be, does it breathe and wick moisture away from your body?

Like I said earlier I have used the Phase AR top for a variety of pursuits ranging from sedate to highly aerobic, with a lot of stop-start in between. Worn next to the skin I have found that moisture transportation during aerobic activities, has been generally awesome. I still get a damp back when lugging my climbing pack up to the Ben or wherever it is I am going, but this soon dries out when I stop (quicker than most other base layers I have used) and I would be more than interested in testing any base layer that gets rid of this problem. During constant exertions such as running breathability is excellent and the Phase dries quickly once I’ve stopped.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/p1020879.jpg?w=461&h=819) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/p1020879.jpg)Having tackled the 2 hour walk in with a heavy pack, I feel cofortably dry when I stop thanks to the breathability and excellent wicking performance of the Phase AR Zip Neck from Arc'teryx The half zip gives extra venting and allows you to tailor the breathability depending upon chosen activities and weather conditions. I’d like to see a more glove-friendly zipper tab as standard with winter in mind though.

Because the Phase AR is a mid weight it is also excellent for less aerobic activities such as rock climbing. It feels much warmer than it’s weight suggests and it is also very wind resistant (although not 100% windproof). This top is ideal as a cold weather base layer but will be too warm (for most) as a base layer during the summer months. Perhaps try the Phase SL Crew instead.

It will however, be perfect as a light insulating layer for those cooler summer’s days and I’ll definitely be giving mine a few outings on the UK mountain crags as well as in the Alps and Dolomites this summer. The half zip that I mentioned earlier will help with ventilation, particularly in the summer months, so this feature adds to the garment’s versatility.

In Conclusion The Phase AR is an excellent mid weight base layer, constructed from a superbly durable and breathable stretch fabric. I particularly like the cut, length and moisture transportation as well as the fact I don’t smell like a skunk after multiple days of use.

Use the Phase AR Zip as a base layer for all your winter pursuits. However it would be nice to see a glove friendly zipper tab.



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Title: Climbing Gear Review – Black Diamond Glissade Gloves
Post by: comPiler on March 22, 2011, 12:00:42 am
Climbing Gear Review – Black Diamond Glissade Gloves (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/03/21/climbing-gear-review-black-diamond-glissade-gloves/)
21 March 2011, 10:31 pm

Are the Black Diamond Glissade gloves the best value all round mountaineering glove? (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/blackdiamond_standrd_neg.jpg?w=216&h=136) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/blackdiamond_standrd_neg.jpg)

Rating (out of 5)

 Performance: *****



Quality: *****



Value For Money: *****

Price: £49.99

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/black-diamond-glissade-glove.jpg?w=393&h=717) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/black-diamond-glissade-glove.jpg)Black Diamond Glissade Glove

For most climbers, glove choice is something of a nightmare. It’s impossible to find one pair that does everything perfectly. For winter climbing in the UK you need something dexterous yet warm, the former being particularly important on more technical leads. They also need to be waterproof as we’re not blessed with the cold, dry conditions they get in the Alps. Added to the mix, most gloves tend not to last much more than a season, particularly if you’re doing mixed routes and to top it all off, they generally cost a bomb.

So is there a glove out there that will do everything the UK winter climber and mountaineer requires it to without compromise? Well, to be honest probably not, but a few do try…

Recently Black Diamond suggested we test their Glissade glove, saying: “the Glissade is the quintessential winter glove and is our most versatile design.”

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/p1020922.jpg?w=614&h=395) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/p1020922.jpg)The Black Diamond Glissade Glove is perfect for skiing

The Glissade gloves I tested were men’s size Small. I felt that I was borderline Small/Medium when I tried them on so went for the Small option. I always size my gloves on the tight side as they usually stretch to give a neat and precise fit. This was the case with these. For climbing use there’s nothing worse than gloves that are too big. Floppy fingers and thumbs reduce dexterity and get caught in gear and karabiners. There was none of this with the Glissades. They fitted literally, like a glove!

I’ve used my Glissades all winter for mountaineering routes in the UK, snowy approaches, more technical ice and mixed routes in Scotland and the Alps, as belay gloves and for skiing. They’ve handled all of these pursuits admirably but some better than others.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/img_2046.jpg?w=230&h=307) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/img_2046.jpg)Heading across from the Aiguille Du Midi, the Cosmiques Hut behind, but finding the Black Diamond Glissade Glove a little warm for strenuous snowshoeing in the sun! As a ski glove I found the Glissade to be excellent, providing more than the warmth (provided by 100g of Thinsulate insulation) of their -1 centigrade rating and the BDry insert keeping my hands dry, combating moisture both inside and out. The gauntlet design fits very well over my jacket cuffs and the elastic cinch closure is easy to adjust and secure.

I actually found the Glissades to be a little too warm for extended periods of energetic activity such as skinning or slogging up to the Ben. For this I would normally choose a lighter weight softshell glove. However, as soon as it comes to skiing down hill or plunging your axe shaft into powder on steep approaches, the Glissades were perfect. In fact, these gloves are ideal for all round mountaineering situations.

As a technical climbing glove the Glissades work too. But I suppose this where they have their limitations too. For a glove of this warmth, dexterity is excellent and they are easy to get on and off (even with damp hands) due to the fixed inners. The low bulk means that you get good levels of feel when gripping ice tools or ski poles and they don’t pose any problems when handling karabiners, cams or wires.

When climbing, they performed best for me on pure ice routes (as opposed to mixed ground) but are not an out and out ice glove as they lack any knuckle or finger tip protection. They also don’t have the articulation (pre-curved hand shape) that something like the Specialist glove has. Saying this, I have actually climbed some pretty technical ground in these, such as the direct entry to Supercouloir on the East Face of Mt Blanc Du Tacul, and found them to perform very well. I never got cold hands either and it was a chilly February day with winds up to 60mph!

The main downside of these for more technical routes though is going to be durability, particularly on mixed ground. The Glissades don’t have leather on the fingertips so these are going to wear out pretty quickly if you are climbing a lot of mixed stuff. I normally do most of my technical climbing in Punishers or Specialists to be honest, but I wouldn’t discount these and I’ve now taken to carrying my Glissades as a spare pair as well.

 

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/img_2048.jpg?w=590&h=454) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/img_2048.jpg)The Black Diamond Glissade Gloves were more than up to the technical stuff too. Seen here in action placing gear on the M6 direct start to Supercouloir, Mont Blanc Du Tacul Conclusion So to round things up, the Glissade glove is the perfect glove to go for if you like to do a bit of everything in the mountains in winter. Black Diamond produce other gloves which will be better suited to each individual activity but that’s going to be a lot more money and a lot more pairs to carry than £50 for one pair of Glissades. This really is a top quality, all round glove at an excellent price!



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Title: Gear News – Smartwool Baselayers
Post by: comPiler on March 27, 2011, 01:00:15 pm
Gear News – Smartwool Baselayers (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/03/27/gear-news-smartwool-baselayers/)
27 March 2011, 9:57 am

Stay Cool This Summer With Smartwool (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/smartwool-logo-color.jpg?w=140&h=112) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/smartwool-logo-color.jpg) Merino wool clothing is a proven warm  weather option; it gives wearers an advantage by keeping the body’s  core temperature lower and more constant during exercise.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/wmns-micro-tank.jpg?w=439&h=819) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/wmns-micro-tank.jpg)Smartwool Women's Micro Tank  

SmartWool® is designed to maximise  the inherent benefits of merino wool – temperature regulation, moisture  management and odour control whilst delivering maximum comfort through  fit, form and function.

SmartWool® Next-To-Skin (NTS)  baselayers are a wardrobe building block no matter what weather Mother  Nature delivers.  Summer 2011 introduces a SmartWool® year-round  layering system tested and inspired by the mountains with products  that answer the summer layering dilemmas taking into account weather,  geography and activity.

SmartWool® NTS baselayers come  in three weights for custom layering combinations.  Offerings range  from ultra-light, stand alone pieces for high performance in  the heat, to slightly heavier layers for active endeavours to serious  insulators.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/mns-micro-t.jpg?w=448&h=631) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/03/mns-micro-t.jpg)Smartwool Men's Micro T  

Absorbing the moisture vapour away from  the skin SmartWool® NTS baselayers allow the body’s natural  cooling process to begin absorbing the vapour and passing it through  the fibre to the Thermal Mid Layer (TML), which effectively  then passes the moisture vapour through to the outer atmosphere.   The wearer stays drier and more comfortable and has maximum mobility  as a lot less bulk and an added bonus of more room in the backpack.

Highlights include women’s and men’s  Microweight Tee’s and long sleeved Crew’s, Microweight Zip T’s,  Sport NTS T’s and Crew Neck and Midweight Crew, Zip Neck and Bottoms.

 

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Title: The North Face comes to Liverpool! – Gear News
Post by: comPiler on April 02, 2011, 01:00:14 pm
The North Face comes to Liverpool! – Gear News (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/04/02/the-north-face-comes-to-liverpool-gear-news/)
2 April 2011, 9:41 am

 

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/tnf-logo.png?w=300&h=268) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/tnf-logo.png)

The North Face is to open a new store in Liverpool THIS month sees the opening of The North Face® store in Liverpool One, and to celebrate the high performance clothing and equipment brand’s arrival, L1 will become home to its very own The North Face® climbing wall.

On Saturday 16th April 2011, the climbing wall will be open to any fearless shoppers who wish to put their climbing skills to the test. The seven metre wall will be open from 10am until 6pm at Paradise Place, just doors away from the new The North Face® store on Paradise Street.

The North Face® climbing athletes, The Pou Brothers, will be on hand to offer their expert hints and tips plus tales of their most challenging expedition, The Hardest of The Alps. Each route on the wall will mirror a stage of this expedition and end in a prize. The best climbers of the day who complete the hardest route will win a climbing weekend for two. Other prizes will include The North Face jackets and footage of The Hardest of the Alps.

The wall will be positioned just a short walk from the new The North Face® store that is set to officially open on Thursday 14th April 2011 from 9.30 am until 8 pm.

Francesca Pozzi, VP Retail Outdoor & Action Sport, The North Face® EMEA, said “As another The North Face® owned store in the UK, this is a fantastic addition to our retail portfolio. The aim of the climbing wall and The Pou Brothers is to really showcase the brand and bring it to life. It will be a fantastic day and something the whole family can get involved in.”

Bringing the brand’s own unique mix of style and performance to Liverpool One, The North Face® is widely recognised today as the world’s premier supplier of authentic, innovative and technically advanced outdoor apparel, equipment, footwear and accessories. Renowned for its innovation and exploration, The North Face® is also the definitive choice for elite mountaineers and serious outdoor athletes across the globe.

Pioneering technologies are a hallmark of The North Face®, as a result of the collaboration between the brand’s research, design & development team and its athlete team—the finest mountaineers, alpinists, climbers, skiers, snowboarders and endurance adventurers.

Moving forward, this unique partnership of designers and global athletes will continue to define the limits of what is possible and will embody The North Face® mission: Never Stop Exploring™.

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Title: Montane Atomic Stretch DT Jacket and Pants – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on April 12, 2011, 07:00:16 pm
Montane Atomic Stretch DT Jacket and Pants – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/04/12/montane-atomic-stretch-dt-jacket-and-pants-climbing-gear-review/)
12 April 2011, 5:41 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/image001.jpg?w=192&h=36) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/image001.jpg)      (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/atomic-dt-stretch.jpg?w=278&h=375) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/atomic-dt-stretch.jpg) Montane Atomic DT Stretch – a great superlight climbing shell      Montane Atomic DT Jacket and Pants – a great lightweight hardshell combination.  Performance ***

Quality ****

Value for money *****

RRP  Jacket £160.00  Pants £85.00

There are plenty of lightweight hardshells out there these days; all the main manufacturers will have a lightweight shell in their product range so it was great when Montane asked us to review their lightweight offering. For those of you who may not have heard of Montane, they are a British company nestled away in God’s own secret – Northumberland. They were an early adopter of Event and you can often see plenty of climbers, walkers and mountaineers wearing their clothing.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/montane-atomic-dt-walking.jpg?w=640&h=360) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/montane-atomic-dt-walking.jpg)Atomic jacket and pants - a great combination for when the clouds threaten. We were asked to review the Atomic DT Stretch Jacket and Pants and I reviewed them in a variety of climbing and mountaineering situations throughout the UK and Europe. They were an ideal set of waterproofs as I don’t wear a hardshell when climbing, preferring to climb in a softshell and then wear a hardshell when the couds threaten. Lightweight, then is the preferred hardshell system I use so the Atomic range fitted the bill nicely. They are both made using Entrant DT with the jacket being made entirely from Entrant DT Stretch and the pants from a mixture of DT Stretch and Storm fabrics. Entrant DT fabric is made by Toray Industries, a Japanese company that manufactures breathable fabrics. For the technically minded of you the fabrics have a 10 000mm Hydrostatic head and a breathability of 8000g/m2/24hrs, which is pretty breathable. It’s a 2.5 layer fabric, which has the outer fabric bonded to the membrane and has an enhanced DWR treatment, the membrane then has a printed pattern on the inner, this adds durability and reduces rubbing wear on the inner, it’s more flexible and lighter than a traditional 3 layer scrim. The garments are then manufactured in China to Montane specifications.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/montane-atomic-dt-grapefruit.jpg?w=180&h=135) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/montane-atomic-dt-grapefruit.jpg)Not quite as small as a grapefruit - but not far off. The Jacket was athletically cut; nice and snug fitting, I did like the fitting which felt great under a harness, with no rise and no ballooning; it always felt tight fitting when climbing both rock and ice. Another nice feature about the cut was the minimal drop tail this again made it feel nice to climb in and I was very impressed with the athletic style of the jacket and how it performed in climbing situations. The hood was helmet compatible, but I did find that it was a little restrictive when the zip was fully closed, I had about 40o sideways movement and plenty of upwards movement and there were times, when ice climbing that it did pose a minor irritation. Without a helmet the hood performed very well, it had a wired peak with a Scotchlite reflective logo on it. The volume adjuster and drawcords were easy to reach and use, even with gloves on. The drawcords were located lower down on the jacket and held in position with oversized end tags; this kept them from whipping around in windy conditions and was a nice, well thought out feature. It had a rollaway feature using hook and tape and although some people like these I found it a little superfluous, but it added little to the overall weight so I remain neutral on that one. The sleeves fitted well and felt good for climbing, there was little rise over the wrists and they fitted well with gloves, they were very easy to adjust with a rubberised tag and plenty of hook and tape. There was a large reflective logo on the arms that was easy to pick out with a headtorch. The zips were YKK Aquazips with the addition of a storm flap on both the main zip and the pockets. The main zip storm flap was further enhanced by hook and tape, this I felt was an overly technical feature and although it did aid the waterproofness of the jacket, it made it difficult to close the zip in climbing situations where the zip needed to be open and closed regularly – for instance taking gloves on and off and stashing them in the jacket. It was even further enhanced by fastening on the top and bottom, again an overly technical feature that I felt was unnecessary. The storm flaps on the voluminous pockets were also a problem when trying to access them with gloves on; the pockets were otherwise fine and easily held a BMC Mountain Map folded.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/montane-atomic-dt-ice.jpg?w=84&h=150) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/montane-atomic-dt-ice.jpg)Great cut for ice climbing. (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/montane-atomic-dt-pants.jpg?w=222&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/montane-atomic-dt-pants.jpg)Atomic Pants - adjustable for a variety of walking and climbing situations. The pants were again a great athletic fit and were excellent for climbing in. A combination of two fabrics Entrant DT Storm and stretchy seat and knee panels made from Entrant DT Stretch provided plenty of movement for those high mixed steps; movement was further enhance by the articulated knees. There was a two way ¾ length aqua zip that meant I could walk into a route and then put them on easily with my boots on a good sized storm flap provided that extra bit of waterproof security; on top of that there was good ankle adjustment provided by press studs on the hem. The waist was elasticated but Montane had cleverly thought to put on a static, lace drawcord that was adjustable each side; this was great and no matter how wet the pants became they never started sliding down my hips. I was a little worried that my crampon points would go through the lightweight materials, but that just made me more aware for keeping tight foot footwork – no bad thing there! There had extra studding on the hem that helped keep them tight against my boots.

Both the jacket and pants were quite breathable with no discernable difference to the other manufacturers on the market. I wore the jacket ice climbing with just a baselayer underneath and never really felt any more sweaty that if I was in a softshell. Obviously when it rained hard and I was walking uphill it couldn’t cope, but then again nothing else has either, once on the level though and in drier conditions it did dry out very quickly. I found both the jacket and pants very waterproof and although I have a few niggles about the storm flaps they actually did a great job a keeping me dry.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/montane-atomic-dt-alpine.jpg?w=300&h=225) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/montane-atomic-dt-alpine.jpg)Easily stashed into the smallest space and delpoyed when the wind gets up. So in conclusion, a great all round set of lightweight waterproofs, ideal for those long mountain days where you may not be wearing a set of waterproofs all day but want a set stashed away ready to pull out when the clouds threaten or the wind gets up. The cut was great for both climbing and walking and the Entrant DT fabric was very waterproof and acceptably breathable. Great for winter mountaineering, summer scrambling and alpine adventures.

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Title: Black Diamond Ultra Distance Poles – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on April 28, 2011, 01:00:07 pm
Black Diamond Ultra Distance Poles – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/04/28/black-diamond-ultra-distance-poles-climbing-gear-review/)
28 April 2011, 10:55 am

      (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/blackdiamond_standrd_neg.jpg?w=216&h=136) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/blackdiamond_standrd_neg.jpg)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/black-diamond-ultra_distance_open_shut.jpg?w=430&h=314) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/black-diamond-ultra_distance_open_shut.jpg)Black Diamond Ultra Distance Trekking Poles  The perfect ultralight poles to help carry your rock climbing equipment. Performance *****

Quality*****

Value for Money ***

RRP £149.95

Poles have come on a long way, there was a time when they were the preserve of grannies staggering around the local nature reserve. Only the truly initiated had the secret knowledge that not only was it more energy efficient to use poles, but their knees would probably last 10 year longer as well. Slowly poles have begun to gain acceptance amongst the younger rock climbers and hikers and now you can see them being used in all mountain environments (but do use two poles readers,it’s so much more efficient than one).

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/black-diamond-ultra-distance-poles-evolution.jpg?w=150&h=112) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/black-diamond-ultra-distance-poles-evolution.jpg)BD Pole evolution So how do they perform…firstly they are ultra light, really they are. A pair feels lighter than just one aluminium pole and much, much lighter than my Alpine CFs, the trusty CGRUK scales weighed one in at 125g that’s 125g lighter than an Alpine CF (half the weight); and they’re tiny too, the folded down size was 43cms, the Alpine CF was 64cms. Extended, I ordered the 130cm versions, they come in 110 and 120cms. You will need to think carefully as there is no adjustment and it’s worth remembering that the handle extends further, so try them fully extended for size. The handle is kept in position by a small button that pops out, this also cleverly locks the pole sections so it can’t collapse. The poles are held together by a strand of cord with 2 sections having a tough, flexible, plastic attachments holding the sections together. So, imagine a tent pole arrangement, held together with cord and the pole sections joined with tough, flexible plastic. When taken apart you end up with a Z shape; hence the Z -Pole tag line. Deployment is then very straightforward: slot the two sections together and extend the handle until the button pops out and clicks into place.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/black-diamond-ultra-distance-poles-stashed.jpg?w=150&h=112) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/black-diamond-ultra-distance-poles-stashed.jpg) Easily stashed in your pack     The poles performed very well, they had more flex than my Alpine CFs, but they didn’t flex too much and carbon fibre is incredibly tough. There was a miniscule movement in the top section, at the handle extension, but it didn’t affect the performance in anyway. The handles were hardened foam and elliptical in shape and they felt very ergonomic and comfortable, I did, however, begin to get hotspots no my thumb in very hot weather. The wrist loops were made from a Tricot backed false suede, which was ventilated with mesh, a well thought out feature for racers and fast moving activities. Adjustment was by Velcro, which was nice and fast to adjust for gloves, etc. They were signed left and right and this allowed me to easily adjust the loops with the other hand when the loops were on my wrists, very neat. They were attached to the pole with cord which I thought could be problem later if the cord or loop began to wear; it didn’t look like it would be easy to fashion a field repair either. I was also concerned they might break when applying a lot of downward pressure, but it didn’t happen. (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/black-diamond-ultra-distance-header.jpg?w=574&h=322) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/black-diamond-ultra-distance-header.jpg)Black Diamond Ultra Distance Poles - responsive on steep, unstable ground The tip is fixed and comes with both rubber and carbide tips. They were easy to change, but I needed a Leatherman and I couldn’t un

do them by hand. The carbide tips performed great on dry and wet rock and the basket was also fixed to the tip, they also had a handy notch which allowed me snap the basket to the top section to make stowing more tidy. The fixed basket was a very disappointing feature as I rely on interchangeable baskets for summer and winter and even then I change between hard snow and powder baskets. So I feel they will be unusable in just the activity where I’m desperately trying to shave every gram I can from the weight of my pack. There is talk of a specific winter set, but it does mean that they are not a replacement for my Alpine CFs.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/black-diamond-ultra-distance-poles-walking.jpg?w=655&h=369) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/black-diamond-ultra-distance-poles-walking.jpg)BD Ultra Distance - great for load carrying. So, a great offering from Black Diamond that will be perfectly suited to all your mountaineering activities. The pros: does what it says on the tin, they are ultra light and easily stow in most pack sizes. They performed great, felt really comfortable to use and are objects of desire. The cons: no adjustment, fixed baskets and the loop attachment system.

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Title: Black Diamond Ultra Distance Trekking Poles – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on May 03, 2011, 01:00:22 pm
Black Diamond Ultra Distance Trekking Poles – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/04/28/black-diamond-ultra-distance-poles-climbing-gear-review/)
28 April 2011, 10:55 am

      (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/blackdiamond_standrd_neg.jpg?w=216&h=136) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/blackdiamond_standrd_neg.jpg)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/black-diamond-ultra_distance_open_shut.jpg?w=430&h=314) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/black-diamond-ultra_distance_open_shut.jpg)Black Diamond Ultra Distance Trekking Poles  The perfect ultralight poles to help carry your rock climbing equipment. Performance *****

Quality*****

Value for Money ***

RRP £149.95

Poles have come on a long way, there was a time when they were the preserve of grannies staggering around the local nature reserve. Only the truly initiated had the secret knowledge that not only was it more energy efficient to use poles, but their knees would probably last 10 year longer as well. Slowly poles have begun to gain acceptance amongst the younger rock climbers and hikers and now you can see them being used in all mountain environments (but do use two poles readers,it’s so much more efficient than one).

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/black-diamond-ultra-distance-poles-evolution.jpg?w=150&h=112) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/black-diamond-ultra-distance-poles-evolution.jpg)BD Pole evolution So how do they perform…firstly they are ultra light, really they are. A pair feels lighter than just one aluminium pole and much, much lighter than my Alpine CFs, the trusty CGRUK scales weighed one in at 125g that’s 125g lighter than an Alpine CF (half the weight); and they’re tiny too, the folded down size was 43cms, the Alpine CF was 64cms. Extended, I ordered the 130cm versions, they come in 110 and 120cms. You will need to think carefully as there is no adjustment and it’s worth remembering that the handle extends further, so try them fully extended for size. The handle is kept in position by a small button that pops out, this also cleverly locks the pole sections so it can’t collapse. The poles are held together by a strand of cord with 2 sections having a tough, flexible, plastic attachments holding the sections together. So, imagine a tent pole arrangement, held together with cord and the pole sections joined with tough, flexible plastic. When taken apart you end up with a Z shape; hence the Z -Pole tag line. Deployment is then very straightforward: slot the two sections together and extend the handle until the button pops out and clicks into place.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/black-diamond-ultra-distance-poles-stashed.jpg?w=150&h=112) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/black-diamond-ultra-distance-poles-stashed.jpg) Easily stashed in your pack     The poles performed very well, they had more flex than my Alpine CFs, but they didn’t flex too much and carbon fibre is incredibly tough. There was a miniscule movement in the top section, at the handle extension, but it didn’t affect the performance in anyway. The handles were hardened foam and elliptical in shape and they felt very ergonomic and comfortable, I did, however, begin to get hotspots no my thumb in very hot weather. The wrist loops were made from a Tricot backed false suede, which was ventilated with mesh, a well thought out feature for racers and fast moving activities. Adjustment was by Velcro, which was nice and fast to adjust for gloves, etc. They were signed left and right and this allowed me to easily adjust the loops with the other hand when the loops were on my wrists, very neat. They were attached to the pole with cord which I thought could be problem later if the cord or loop began to wear; it didn’t look like it would be easy to fashion a field repair either. I was also concerned they might break when applying a lot of downward pressure, but it didn’t happen. (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/black-diamond-ultra-distance-header.jpg?w=574&h=322) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/black-diamond-ultra-distance-header.jpg)Black Diamond Ultra Distance Poles - responsive on steep, unstable ground The tip is fixed and comes with both rubber and carbide tips. They were easy to change, but I needed a Leatherman and I couldn’t un

do them by hand. The carbide tips performed great on dry and wet rock and the basket was also fixed to the tip, they also had a handy notch which allowed me snap the basket to the top section to make stowing more tidy. The fixed basket was a very disappointing feature as I rely on interchangeable baskets for summer and winter and even then I change between hard snow and powder baskets. So I feel they will be unusable in just the activity where I’m desperately trying to shave every gram I can from the weight of my pack. There is talk of a specific winter set, but it does mean that they are not a replacement for my Alpine CFs.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/black-diamond-ultra-distance-poles-walking.jpg?w=655&h=369) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/black-diamond-ultra-distance-poles-walking.jpg)BD Ultra Distance - great for load carrying. So, a great offering from Black Diamond that will be perfectly suited to all your mountaineering activities. The pros: does what it says on the tin, they are ultra light and easily stow in most pack sizes. They performed great, felt really comfortable to use and are objects of desire. The cons: no adjustment, fixed baskets and the loop attachment system.

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Title: Boreal Krypto Rock Shoe-Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on May 07, 2011, 07:00:13 am
Boreal Krypto Rock Shoe-Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/05/07/boreal-krypto-rock-shoe-climbing-gear-review/)
7 May 2011, 4:55 am

   (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/boreal-new-logo.jpg?w=300&h=165) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/boreal-new-logo.jpg)

  (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/11450-krypto.jpg?w=300&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/11450-krypto.jpg)The 2011 Boreal Krypto The 2011 Boreal Krypto Rock Climbing Shoe – the all new high perfomance rock shoe from Spain. When we reviewed the BorealStorm (http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=2606) in 2010 we were sceptical about the lacing system and concluded that the shoe was a good all round performer but the lacing system needed further improvement. When the new 2011 Boreal Krypto arrived I was glad to see that the lacing system had been dropped in favour of a more traditional velcro strap fastening. But had it retained an all round performer cachet?

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/boreal-krypto-shipley.jpg?w=524&h=295) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/boreal-krypto-shipley.jpg)Boreal Krypto - brilliant for Gritstone Well, spring had arrived and it was time to maintain and store the winter kit, dust off the trusty crash pad and start to think about power, balance and technique because the Grit was calling. So it was great to able to try the shoes out. As I said earlier they are a traditional Velcro fastening boot; the uppers are made from slip lasted split leather, so no smelly bacteria forming here, and feel very supple. Ventilation was further aided by an integral padded, meshed tongue. They are also unlined and I opted for a UK 7.5. My normal trainer size is a UK 8; having worn them for a while I have noticed some stretch and on reflection I should have got a size UK 7, I feel this would have helped maintain the performance fit. The stretch was limited by the addition of a rubber reinforcement band across the upper part of the toe, this also had the benefit of aiding with toe hooking and scumming. They were comfortable to wear climbing straight from the box and it was reassuring to note that the shoes came with a six month guarantee.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/boreal-krypto-gac.jpg?w=300&h=225) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/boreal-krypto-gac.jpg)Boreal Krypto - great for heelhooking The toe profile was aggressively asymetric, but comfortable in a way they shouldn’t be and I was able to wear them for a reasonable period of time without desperately want to get them off my feet. The performance toe profile meant I was able to stand on small edges and I could feel the ball of my toe being pushed into the hold. They also smeared very well, especially on the grit as they were quite flexible with the half stiff midsole. I must say these were a superlative gritstone shoe and performed very well on all types of gritstone climbing – although they were uncomfortable in sustained fingercrack style cracks. At first I thought they might be alittle too soft but on limestone they also performed well, whether it was trading at Stoney, sport climbing at Malham and I found them great for steep climbing on crags like Kilnsey. I found them a little tight for multi pitch climbing, on a CGRUK trip to Tremadog I had to get them off my feet asap on any belay I could, so maybe not ideal for wearing all day on a long mountain route unless you sized them accordingly.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/krypto-limestone.jpg?w=300&h=168) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/krypto-limestone.jpg)Great on steep limestone - Kilnsey, Yorkshire. The sole rubber is the well established FS Quattro and as long as the rubber is kept clean it will offer as good friction as any other rubber. The excellent IRS heel also meant that the shoe was very comfortable in the heel section. I do find the heels on Boreal shoes some of the best for my foot shape (narrow and bony) and I could feel the air being pushed out and a vacuum effect take over, brilliant for heelhooking.

They have proved to be a great sport climbing shoe and have performed well in all the climbing situations I have used them on. It’s good to see that Boreal have postponed the MiFit experiment and resorted to the tried and tested Velcro straps. The shape is excellent and the materials top class, many may not like the FS Quattro friction, but I found it fine for the routes I was doing.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/boreal-krypto-stoney.jpg?w=300&h=225) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/boreal-krypto-stoney.jpg)Coped well with the polish at Stoney Middleton. So, a good offering from Boreal. A great, all round shoe that will perform in all climbing situations: from trad to bouldering, and are awesome on Gritstone routes. I have used these shoes all spring and they still feel great and have kept their performance intact. Finally, they were a little too soft for my weak climbing style and I would have liked them a little stiffer as I would have climbed better on very fingery wall climbs; but hey ho, I can always hang for longer on the fingerboard!

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Title: Montane Flux Jacket – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on May 10, 2011, 01:00:10 pm
Montane Flux Jacket – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/05/10/montane-flux-jacket-climbing-gear-review/)
10 May 2011, 9:25 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/image001.jpg?w=192&h=36) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/image001.jpg)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/flux.jpg?w=480&h=597) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/flux.jpg)Montane Flux Jacket Montane Flux Jacket – a well featured piece of synthetic insulation for year round belay duties. Performance ****

Quality ****

Value for money *****

RRP  Jacket £130.00

These days many companies produce what they call a “belay jacket”. Something you can throw on over the top of your other layers on long winter belay stints or when holding your mate’s ropes for hours when he’s dogging his sport project. They’re also great as a bivi back-up and can even be regularly seen posing down the local pub. For UK use the most favorable filling is some sort of synthetic insulation such as Primaloft or similar. This means that even if it gets wet or damp it won’t lose any of it’s insulating capacity.

I’ve tried a lot of synthetic belay jackets over the last few years and have found, like with everything else, that some are better than others. I normally look for certain essential features. These are:

So does Montane’s Flux Jacket tick all of these boxes? In short, yes it pretty muc does. It has velcro adjustable cuffs, a baffled two way zip, and two big zippered handwarmer pockets one of which doubles as a stuff sack but unfortunately there is no clip loop to allow you to clip it to your harness. It also features two zippered chest pockets though there are no internal mesh pockets which is a shame, as I find this simple feature very useful for stashing spare gloves etc and allowing them to dry. All the zippers feature zip tabs though which mean they can be operated smoothly whilst wearing gloves. All in all storage space is plentiful and getting the jacket on and off is easy.  (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/img_2032.jpg?w=512&h=682) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/img_2032.jpg)The Montane Flux Jacket - a cosy synthetic belay parka   (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/flux-jacket-3.jpg?w=300&h=225) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/flux-jacket-3.jpg)The Flux Jacket - perfect for UK cragging too The hood is also well sized and goes over a helmet. It features a wired visor which holds it’s shape well and a drawcord system which reduces the volume effectively and tailors the fit to your head/helmet but won’t have your eye out in high winds. My only gripe about the hood/neck is that when I put the hood up and zip the jacket all the way up to the neck, the neck feels tight and restrictive so I have ended up unzipping it and leaving my chin exposed to the elements which is not ideal. The chin does feature a soft and comfortable microfibre “beard guard” though which is nice when I do zip it all the way up.  In terms of cut and size I found the Flux jacket to be generally excellent. My test jacket was a size medium which fitted nicely over the top of all of my other layers but didn’t flap about in the wrong places if it actually came to climbing in it. The only thing I’d change was the neck.  So, does the Flux Jacket provide decent cold weather protection? The microlight Pertex outer is windproof and coupled with a DWR finish, repels light moisture well. It dries quickly when damp and is also proving to be quite tough. The layered 60g/40g Primaloft synthetic insulation provides great warmth for it’s weight. I was a little confused regarding the layout of the insulation so I asked Montane to explain things further:

“The arrangement of 60g and 40g is as follows:

· 60g in the back

· 60g in the crown of the hood

· 40g in the sides of the hood 

· 60g in the arms

· 40g in the cuff area

· 2 layers of 40g in the chest area, meaning that the front pockets are encased between these layers.”

The idea is that the thicker insulation is sited in key areas where warmth is needed most, such as the core and the lighter insulation is used elsewhere. This works really well and gives a jacket that is warm, pretty light and offers excellent mobility when on the move.

It’s not as warm as say a Patagonia DAS Parka, but then again with the Flux weighing in at 540g for a Medium, the DAS Parka is 250g heavier. Having used the Flux jacket as a belay jacket this winter in both Scotland and on day routes in the Alps I have found it to provide more than enough warmth. It certainly sits happily alongside other synthetic belay jackets of a similar spec such as The North Face Redpoint Optimus or RAB Generator Alpine jacket, providing a good level of warmth to weight. If I was going to be spending nights bivvying in the Alps in winter however, then maybe I’d opt for something warmer (and probably filled with down).

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/img_2034.jpg?w=512&h=682) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/img_2034.jpg)The Montane Flux Jacket - an athletic enough cut to climb in if need be but sized large enough to wear over the top of all of your other layers. Here Kev tests the jacket in Cogne, Italy.  So, in conclusion the Flux Jacket is a well featured, good quality belay jacket ideal for UK winter climbing, Alpine day routes and UK cragging. The length is good, as is the general cut. I like the hood and pocket configuration but would like to see a redesign on the neck as well as the addition of a couple of internal mesh pockets.    

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Title: The North Face Verto Jacket – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on May 24, 2011, 01:00:10 pm
The North Face Verto Jacket – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/05/24/the-north-face-verto-jacket-climbing-gear-review/)
24 May 2011, 9:54 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/tnf-logo.png?w=447&h=400) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/tnf-logo.png) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/the-north-face-verto.jpg?w=616&h=717) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/the-north-face-verto.jpg)The North Face Verto - ultra light, ultra compressible, windproof     The Verto Jacket from TNF – ultralight emergency shell where less is definitely more Performance *****

Quality*****

Value for money ***

RRP £110.00

The Verto Jacket from The North Face packs down to next to nothing and weighs even less. My first impression when I got it out of the box was there is absolutely nothing to it…but that’s exactly the point. It’s not a jacket you’re going to wear everyday. It’s the sort of thing that’ll live in the bottom of your pack and you won’t even know it’s there. I mean it only weighs 93g! And yes you did read that correctly! It also packs down to little more than the size of a Mars bar too. Clip it to the back of your rock climbing harness for multipitch routes to give you that added piece of mind in case the weather turns nasty, but it certainly won’t hinder upward progress either.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/verto-2.jpg?w=614&h=346) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/verto-2.jpg)Perfect lightweight wind protection for multipitch trad routes. The Verto Jacket is part of TNF’s Summit Series range of products. It is designed as a wind and water resistant (definitely NOT waterproof though) shell to take along with you on those days when you are out rock climbing, hiking or running and you want to go lightweight. Minimal kit for maximum speed. But some protection should the shit hit the proverbial fan. For this, the Verto Jacket is perfect!

So how is it so light without falling apart? Well, firstly it is constructed from 7D 24 g/m2 Pertex Quantum-100% nylon micro-ripstop, which is windproof, super-light and actually quite tough. It also repels the odd heavy shower too. TNF keep the weight down further by using simple elastic closures on the hem, cuffs and hood (yes 93g and it has a hood too!!) as well as a simple reverse coil, full length zip. Pockets are kept to a minimum also and consist of one on the chest, zippered and reversible, doubling as a stash pocket with clipper loop so you can attach it your rock climbing harness or the back of your pack. I just wonder how light this could be if the zips were dispensed with altogether? Obviously this would reduce the functionality a little but it’s just a thought.

So as it’s an emergency, stash-it-in-the-bag type of jacket, have I actually used it very much? And if so, what for? Well, so far I’ve used it for windy runs on the moors as well as for rock climbing. It’s saved me from misery whilst bouldering on blustery evenings and I’ve been glad to have it clipped to the back of my harness on multi-pitch trad outings too. Don’t get me wrong, it’s not going to be tackling grit or granite chimneys and coming off as the winner, but then you’re not going to be wearing it on this type of ground, often or even at all.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/p1030256.jpg?w=448&h=671) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/p1030256.jpg)The North Face Verto Jacket, this ultralight wind protection was the only shell I had on a blustery evening on Barden Fell. Probably not the most durable top for regular grit wear though! In terms of the fit, The North Face describe it as athletic. They say that this is a neater cut and is designed to suit a more athletic frame! The fit of my Verto Jacket was the main gripe that I had with it but I think this is down to the fact it was the wrong size. I normally take size small and my sample Verto is a medium. I actually checked this out in a local store and this confirmed things. It’s a shame as I didn’t quite get to see it in all it’s glory because of the sizing. It was perfectly fine when climbing (although there was definitely some superfluous fabric, particularly on the arms), but flapped about intolerably when I was running, to the point that I actually took it off! Having tried the small size, I’m sure it wouldn’t have been the case with that. This isn’t a TNF criticism but one that applies to a number of big companies who seem to make all of their test samples in size medium! Take note please!

“At 93g for a medium, it is ridiculously light and packable so you’ve no excuse for leaving it behind.”
The hood is superb though and fitted brilliantly on the medium as well as the small. Simple elastic is used to give it shape and keep it on your head and whilst it is definitely a “under the helmet” design, it works perfectly like this. It doesn’t have any fixing point to stop it flapping about when it is down though, but this would add to the weight and didn’t cause me any problems. You can actually turn it down into the neck which was sufficient, forming a collar of sorts and minimising any flapping.

So in conclusion, The Verto Jacket is a minimalist hooded windproof and water resistant shell and it does this job very well. Carry it when hiking, running and rock climbing on those days when you want to keep weight to a minimum but might just get caught out by the weather too. At 93g for a medium, it is ridiculously light and packable so you’ve no excuse for leaving it behind. The downside is that it isn’t going to be hugely durable and at £110, less is most definitely more!



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Title: Marmot Hueco Pant – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on May 27, 2011, 07:00:14 pm
Marmot Hueco Pant – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/05/27/marmot-hueco-pant-climbing-gear-review/)
27 May 2011, 5:41 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/marmot-logo-crisp-version1.jpg?w=614&h=204) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/marmot-logo-crisp-version1.jpg)  (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/t63770_7156_hueco_pnt.jpg?w=441&h=1024) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/t63770_7156_hueco_pnt.jpg)Marmot Hueco Pant in colour Tarmac. Also available in Dark Coal and Khaki Brown Marmot Hueco Pant – a top notch functional cragging pant that looks good too. Performance *****

Quality *****

Value for money *****

RRP  £50.00

Over the years I’ve developed a certain affinity with a couple of models of rock climbing trousers and struggled to deviate away from them. Don’t get me wrong, I have tried others, but I’ve never quite found anything that is as comfortable, well cut (even  wearing a harness) and looks the part (vain I know!). So does the Hueco Pant from Marmot change this?

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/p1030536.jpg?w=590&h=393) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/p1030536.jpg)Marmot Hueco Pant, great with a harness The Hueco Pant is Marmot’s latest addition to their cragging legwear range. With a name alluding to Texan bouldering mecca, Hueco Tanks they are certainly thinking in the right direction. Although don’t be fooled into thinking that this is a pant solely for boulderers. Marmot say that the trouser was developed using feedback from their own rock climbing athletes in an attempt to create a trouser that, “is ideal for climbers wanting a pant they can climb in all day without affecting performance.”

And this really is a great pair of trousers for all aspects of rock climbing, from bouldering on the grit to multi pitch classics on Cloggy. They even fit in nicely down the pub afterwards. So what makes them so good?

Well, I have worn my Hueco Pants for bouldering on gritstone in the Yorkshire Dales and on Swiss granite. I’ve had them out sport climbing in Provence and tradding on Lakeland mountain crags. They’ve even fitted in nicely in trendy Chamonix bars (even if I didn’t!). As Marmot say, they really are an “all day pant.”

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/p1030538.jpg?w=590&h=393) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/p1030538.jpg)Marmot Hueco Pant, a superb cut offering great freedom of movement on those tricky high steps. The first thing that struck me about them was the fit. I am a 30 inch waist and regular inside leg and my test pair of pants is size small. They fit perfectly. The elasticated waist is comfortable, even whilst wearing a harness and this is aided by the soft lining on the inside of the waistband. The waist does also feature a drawcord for tweaking the fit but I’ve not really found this necessary.The cut is loose but not ‘MC Hammer’ loose, so you can move freely on those high steps or heel hooks but they don’t obscure your feet either. The diamond gusseted crotch provides extra freedom of movement on those high steps and bridging moves too, as do the articulated knees. Another thing I noticed about the crotch on the Hueco Pant is that it isn’t too low. Some other trousers I have tried recently have had a low crotch similar to what you would see on the jeans of some 13 year old youth with a skateboard. The problem with this is that as soon as you put a harness on the trousers are pulled up by about 2 inches and the fabric bunches up in all the wrong places.

“And this really is a great pair of trousers for all aspects of rock climbing, from bouldering on the grit to multi pitch classics on Cloggy. They even fit in nicely down the pub afterwards.”
(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/p1030579.jpg?w=192&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/p1030579.jpg)Durable enough for those gnarly knee-bars. I found that the leg length was pretty much spot on. The trousers didn’t look half mast whilst wearing trainers etc and they weren’t dragging along the floor either. When climbing there is a velcro cuff feature which allows you to cinch the hems in a little, but I actually prefer to turn them up a turn or two. This isn’t due to problems with the length though, it just seems to be a ritual I partake in with all my rock climbing pants! The fabric seems to tolerate this without you having to re-roll them every two minutes as well.

Speaking of the fabric, Marmot use a 65/35% polyester and cotton mix on the Huecos. This woven fabric appears to be very durable in the time that I have used them. It is super comfortable against the skin and very breathable which is a real bonus in warmer weather.  They also dry very quickly if they do get wet. The downside is that they are not the most wind resistant pair of pants out there so you might be better going for a lightweight soft-shell style if you are looking for something for prolonged use on UK mountain crags and definitely for Alpine rock routes. One final note about the fabric is that it is rated to sun protection factor (Ultraviolet Protection Factor) 30. This is definitely handy for the fair skinned amongst us!

So there you go, the Hueco Pants from Marmot have been officially accepted into my cragging legwear of choice! An excellent cut, high quality workmanship and durable and comfortable fabric. Perfect for bouldering, sport climbing and trad stuff too, although those spending lots of time on mountain routes may want something a little more windproof. They even look great in the pub afterwards. Top job Marmot!



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Title: The North Face Cipher Hybrid Jacket – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on June 09, 2011, 07:00:10 pm
The North Face Cipher Hybrid Jacket – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/06/09/the-north-face-cipher-hybrid-jacket-climbing-gear-review/)
9 June 2011, 4:53 pm

  (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/tnf-logo.png?w=300&h=268)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/the-north-face-cypher-hybrid.jpg?w=422&h=491) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/the-north-face-cypher-hybrid.jpg)TNF Cipher Hybrid Jacket The new 2011 TNF Cipher Hybrid Jacket  (http://uk.thenorthface.com/tnf-uk-en/men-s-cipher-hybrid-jacket.html?colour=592)- a mixture of materials makes for a good all round mountain jacket. Performance ****

Quality*****

Value for money ****

RRP £150.00

The North Face, the iconic brand that climbers love to ‘dis’. It is worth noting though that although you may see members of the general public strolling around the park in TNF down jackets and students wearing TNF day packs, a quick browse through the catalogue will quickly reveal the wealth of technical clothing that is purely dedicated to climbers, hikers and runners. One of the reasons I’ve always liked TNF is the sizing, it just seems to be one of those companies whose clothing fits me just right, the leg length is right, the arm length also good, so I’ve been a fan for a while and have owned many items.

 

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/the-north-face-cipher-hybrid-scrambling.jpg?w=576&h=324) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/the-north-face-cipher-hybrid-scrambling.jpg)A great fit allows super climbing freedom This review is for The North Face Cipher Hybrid Jacket (http://uk.thenorthface.com/tnf-uk-en/men-s-cipher-hybrid-jacket.html?colour=592), the new 2011 hybrid softshell jacket made from a mixture of Gore Windstopper and TNF’s own Apex Aerobic softshell fabric, which is very light and stretchy. The Cipher jacket has been around for a year or two now and the hybrid is an extension of the range; made more for 3 season climbing and mountain activities, than as a burly winter garment. So let’s get down to details.

 

The fabrics were good combination for a hybrid, the Windstopper fabric was nice to the touch, very windproof and shed light showers very well. It took a while for water to get through in more sustained rain, but the leakage was through the Apex Aerobic becoming saturated, the only leakage through the Windstopper was through the pocket zips. The jacket is part of the Summit Series and felt up to the job of regular outdoor climbing use. There was the usual TNF embroidered logos on the chest and shoulder blade, with Summit and Windstopper logos embroidered on the arm and waist. It looked and felt a quality item.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/the-north-face-cipher-hybrid-climbing.jpg?w=711&h=400) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/the-north-face-cipher-hybrid-climbing.jpg)The North Face Cipher Hybrid-a great cut for climbing The cut was athletic but didn’t hug too much, especially at the armpits which often pose a problem for me (all those years of yarding up and down Bachar ladders). I received a medium and with my normal size being a 38-40” chest it fitted nicely. It was great for wearing under a harness and wasn’t too long so didn’t get caught up with carabiners and other hardwear; it did have a hem cinch which made it even better so I can’t foresee any annoying holes developing at the waist section. There was minimal rise when my arms were fully extended for reachy holds and there was little ballooning in the chest area – I have seen a real improvement in this area from most quality manufacturers and it’s nice to see the major players addressing these problem areas in the cut.

 

The Gore Windstopper extended over the shoulders, the rest of the arms being Apex Aerobic. At first I couldn’t fathom out why they had put the Apex Aerobic material at the arms as these are not really a high sweat area, but it did prove an advantage when I needed to pull the sleeves up, it would have been better to have a slightly wider cuff as climber’s forearms are larger than the ergonomic average (or at least they should be!). The Apex Aerobic material is a woven softshell so wasn’t as windproof as the Windstopper and there were days when my arms were cold, especially on very windy days when I stopped for a break and the sweat cooled down. The cuff closure was hook and lace, at first glace I thought the hook was Hypalon but on closer examination it was a plastic moulded piece with TNF logos. This I thought was a potential flaw in the sleeve design and could affect the performance when filled with snow or dirt – I should add however, that it performed well in the activities I was using it for. The Apex Aerobic fabric extended under the armpits (thus eliminating the pit zips) and down the sides of the jacket, the fabric performed very well in high aerobic activities such as hiking uphill. It also dried out very quickly, remained supple, left no sweat residue and didn’t smell after several days use.

 

The pockets were voluminous,they easily swallowed up a laminated OS map, plus whatever else I wanted to throw in them. They were easily accessible when wearing a harness or pack waist belt and had good functioning zips that were easy to use with gloves on. There was no Napolean pocket which I thought was a serious flaw, as there was no inside pocket either. These pockets are very useful for stashing energy bars, topos, hats and even your Blackberry for taking that all important business call mid crux. The main zip worked well, smooth and snag free, weather protection was enhance with an inner storm flap.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/tnf-map.jpg?w=300&h=225) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/tnf-map.jpg)The huge pockets easily swallowed a laminated OS map.  The hood was made from Apex Aerobic and was the usual elasticated TNF hood. It fitted nicely under a climbing helmet and because of the stretchy fabric fitted over the helmet too, very handy for those windy belays. It had a one handed volume adjuster, but no peak. A combination of hood and baseball cap kept most showers but my head did eventually get wet through saturation. The collar and chin guard were micro fleece and the whole set up felt snug when zipped up.

 

So, a great technical jacket from The North Face, suitable for all my mountain adventures: from rock climbing through to mountain days out. It has quickly become a staple item of clothing for all my climbing days out. I felt that the addition of a Napolean pocket and extending the Windstopper fabric down the forearms would have made it perfect. And the company that puts it’s strapline never stop exploring on the fly of my pants is genius!

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Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Sprayway Crux Windstopper Jacket – Mountain Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on June 13, 2011, 07:00:25 pm
Sprayway Crux Windstopper Jacket – Mountain Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/06/13/sprayway-crux-windstopper-jacket-mountain-gear-review/)
13 June 2011, 4:36 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/sw_black_fawol.jpg?w=300&h=73) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/sw_black_fawol.jpg)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/sprayway-crux-cobalt.jpg?w=254&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/sprayway-crux-cobalt.jpg)

Sprayway have been making outdoor garments since 1974 in Manchester. They are currently based in Hyde, Cheshire and although they have their own pedigree and unique identity they have close links with Mountain Equipment and Ron Hill. We met the marketing team at the Llanberis Film Festival earlier in the year and they came across as keen and passionate about all things outdoors. We were a little hesitant to begin with about the products that Sprayway could offer our readers, but a browse through the catalogue soon dispelled our fears. There was plenty of kit under the Sprayway banner that climbers and mountaineers could use from softshell jackets through to family tents (for that all important Euro road trip).

We opted to test the Crux jacket as we felt this satisfied the CGRUK criteria of a garment that would be useful for a variety of mountain activities; hence the Mountain Gear Review category. The crux jacket has been in the Sprayway range for over 10 years and has been a tried and tested piece so it was good to put it through its paces.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/sprayway-crux-jacket-scramble.jpg?w=614&h=346) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/sprayway-crux-jacket-scramble.jpg)The cut gave plenty of room for easy climbing. The jacket is marketed as a durable all day fleece suitable for all mountain conditions. The main body material is Gore Windstopper Fleece, this has been tried and tested for many years now and has proved it’s pedigree as a tough, all weather fleece material. The whole jacket has a tough, durable look to it with Taslan reinforcement in high wear areas such as: shoulders, elbows, forearms and waist; all areas where rucksack wear can damage a fleece very quickly. The Windstopper fleece is a three layer fabric combining a lightweight fleece, bonded to a breathable Gortex membrane and substantial screed lining that helps wicks sweat though the membrane. The concept is very straight forward, the lining disperses the sweat through the membrane and the fleece wicks it further along it’s fibres to evaporate. Taslan is a Du Pont textile that is a very durable nylon used in a variety of outdoor materials.

 

The jacket performed well in almost all the activities I tested it in, it only let me down during technical rock climbing when I found it a little bulky, this was more down to the cut than the material. Talking of the cut, I was sent a Medium, I’m usually a 38-40” chest and I found the jacket generous in size, the arm lengths were regular and the overall length long, this posed a problem under a harness if you were using climbing hardware, but on a glacier it would be fine. The length did prove a bonus in cold windy conditions where it offered a little extra protection. I mainly used the fleece for hiking in the mountains and scrambling and had no problems using it. There is often a trade off when using Windstopper, the membrane does a fantastic job of fending off the wind and keeping you warm, but can feel quite clammy when you’re working hard like walking uphill; this was exacerbated when wearing a rucksack. Most sensible people though (not reviewers of course who have to suffer for their art) would be taking the jacket off in those situations. Ventilation was also aided by a powerstretch insert under the armpits, this also was good for the rise and there was very little lift of the jacket when wearing a harness, it was a good substitute for pit zips and made for great manoeuvrability.

 

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/sprayway-crux-scamble-2.jpg?w=614&h=346) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/sprayway-crux-scamble-2.jpg)Plenty of Taslan reinforcement in high wear areas. The sleeves had plenty of Taslan reinforcement on the elbows and forearms and were closed using a Velcro tab made form Hypalon, the cuff was easy to close by a clever use of cutting the fleece away and just having Taslan, this meant the cuff didn’t feel bulky around the wrist, great when wearing gloves. There was stitched Windstopper logo on the sleeve and Sprayway logos on the chest and back of the neck.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/sparway-crux-hood.jpg?w=300&h=168) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/sparway-crux-hood.jpg)The hood was very handy in windy conditions. There were 4 pockets, 2 large handwarmer pockets that had a waist drawcord adjuster hidden inside them, they were big enough to fit a laminated OS map in them plus more. There was a zipped Napoleon at the chest, easily big enough to fit a compass, GPS, mobile phone or energy bars. There was also a Velcro tabbed inside pocket, which was as big as the outer Napoleon pocket but strangely it was located on the same side which would mean it could become quite bulky if you were storing several items. All pockets opened to mesh which further enhanced the venting options.

 

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/sprayway-crux-walking.jpg?w=300&h=168) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/sprayway-crux-walking.jpg)A great walking jacket that is stylish and practical. So, in conclusion a good technical fleece that is going to perform well for most mountain conditions. Ideal for cold windy days, where you are going to put it on and keep it on all day. It’s stylish enough to wear down the pub and would great for all walking activities. It’s a little generous with the cut and too bulky for technical rock climbing but would be fine for mountaineering and long mountain routes. A well made and durable item of clothing that will last you a long time.

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Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Gear News – Montane receives prestigious Polartec European APEX Design Award 2011
Post by: comPiler on June 30, 2011, 01:00:23 am
Gear News – Montane receives prestigious Polartec European APEX Design Award 2011 (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/06/29/gear-news-montane-receives-prestigious-polartec-european-apex-design-award-2011/)
29 June 2011, 7:27 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/montane_black_sabretooth_glove.jpg?w=235&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/montane_black_sabretooth_glove.jpg)Montane Sabretooth Gloves Sabretooth Gloves triumph in Polartec®’s prestigious European APEX Design Awards 2011. Our Sabretooth Gloves haven’t yet hit the shops but already they have won their first award. Due to go on sale this Autumn as part of our Autumn / Winter 2011 range, they have netted a prestigious Polartec® European APEX Design Award.

Constructed from Polartec® Power Shield® soft shell fabric which is both highly breathable and water repellent, the Sabretooth gloves were designed for high exertion activities in cold conditions. Taking advantage of the stretch and durability offered by Polartec® Power Shield, the close-fitting Sabretooth gloves feature roll tip finger construction for improved dexterity, a seam-free inside lower wrist for comfort, and a brushed tricot lining throughout to increase wicking and drying.

These yearly awards are presented to designers and companies that push the limits of Polartec® fabric with innovative garments and accessories. Items submitted are judged on innovation, design, style, workmanship, fit, and functionality. Winning products are then showcased at both the Outdoor Retailer Summer Market and OutDoor Friedrichshafen shows on the Polartec® stand.

For further information on these awards, please visit http://www.polartec.com (http://www.polartec.com/).

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Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Totem Cams – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on July 01, 2011, 07:00:18 pm
Totem Cams – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/07/01/totem-cams-climbing-gear-review/)
1 July 2011, 12:44 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/logo.gif?w=216&h=73) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/logo.gif)

  (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/totem-full-set.jpg?w=300&h=150) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/totem-full-set.jpg)

Performance ****

Quality*****

Value for money***

…in fact Kev was moved to cry out ‘ I bloody love these cams’ Sometimes, with a little luck (that you’ve made for yourself) you get to review a product that is just a little different and new. That’s what happened with the Totem Cams (http://www.totemcams.com/). I came across these in an issue of Vertical, fired off an email and Totem agreed that we could review a set of these great and different looking cams. Now cams have come and cams have gone, there are still plenty of brands out there that try to differentiate themselves from the main 3 big brands: Black Diamond, DMM and Wild Country, all with their own new and updated camming devices. So how can a newcomer carve a niche in such a mature market?

Totem are situated in the Basque country, an area in the North West for Spain home to some of Spain’s best climbers including the Pau brothers. They own their own CNC and testing machines, so can retain control over their QC and when they arrived in the post we could immediately see that they oozed quality and loving care, a lot of time had gone in to developing the hardware and it showed.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/totem-cams-racked.jpg?w=168&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/totem-cams-racked.jpg)

They looked very different to any other cams on the market with that U shaped tape and A shaped stems, both of these features proved very useful when we tried them out climbing. The spacer that separated the stems felt comfortable to use with both my thumb tip and the in Thenar (the area where your thumb meets your hand) area, there was a slight issue with gloves on, but the flexibility of the stems did allow the stems to widen out. Further up the stem lead to the trigger which was made from injection moulded plastic, this was ergonomic enough to use with my fingers but if you’ve got fingers like sausages then they could become a little more uncomfortable with prolonged use, flattening out and enlarging the trigger would solve this easily.

There was no sizing printed on the cam but a comparison with DMM 4CUs was as follows:

ColourTotem sizeDMM 4CU sizeBD Camalot size
Blue0.650 0.3
Yellow0.800.5 0.4
Purple1.001.00 0.5
Green1.251.5 0.75
Red1.502.00 1.00
(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/totem-cam-break.jpg?w=150&h=112) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/totem-cam-break.jpg)Doubled up in breaks-bomproof! It is important to note that these comparisons are really for racking purposes as the range is much better on the Totem cams than the DMM and is comparible to the Camalots but without the double camming weight. This increased range has been achieved with the design of the cam, it has a flattened and elongated head which has a knurled edge to enhance the friction and ‘bite’ in place. When the trigger is pulled the cam head is pulled down and then pops back into position with the aid of springs. A little Physics here will help explain this, most cams rely on springs to return the cam to the open position once the trigger is released, usually the spring is wound around the axle and attached to the cam but on the Totem cam the spring is located on the stem wires pushing the cam heads back into position; so 4 springs pushing cam heads back making the whole action incredibly smooth, especially in the larger sizes and they were a joy to use on the crag, in fact Kev was moved to cry out ‘ I bloody love these cams’ when using them. We both found them great, easy to place and remove in all the climbing situations we used them on.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/totem-cam-likestone-pocket.jpg?w=150&h=112) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/totem-cam-likestone-pocket.jpg)Totem Cams - the compact head was perfect for Limestone pockets. They were superb on Gritstone, simple to use and easy to place. They never overcammed and were in fact next to impossible to overcam as you just couldn’t pull the trigger further than the smallest point of the range; not that they should be used this way as with all cams you need a little play left in the trigger in order to get the cam out. They also worked really well on Limestone where the compact head meant they could be easily placed into pockets, the only rock type I felt a little trepidation in using them was smooth slate where the knurled head didn’t quite feel aggressive enough to keep the cam in the exact place I set it.

The U shaped tape came in very handy when I felt I needed a shorter tape length (low to the ground first runner, or straight off the belay) as I could just clip it into the sewn section above, this didn’t work so well with very small carabiners where the lower sling could interfere with clipping the rope. But the tape was very burly looking and  inspired confidence at all times.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/totem-cam-2-cams.jpg?w=84&h=150) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/totem-cam-2-cams.jpg)2 cams are better than no cams! Back to the head, this was where I was a little perplexed as it felt overly technical, there was a lot going on here, the top of the head was showing 8 wires all the thickness of a Rock 1 wire.  I thought that although the action was very smooth there could be a lot of wear at this point; I was also able to pull one of the wires off the head, this did not interfere with the action and the cam but it could be a problem if it caught on spikes when you were trying to remove it.

Kev also gave the cams a good test and he adds… Totem Cams (http://www.totemcams.com/) perform well on many rock types and I’ve tested them on everything ranging from perfect granite right through to shaley choss, with everything in between! The thing that strikes me most about these cams is the smooth action, which dare I say it, may be the best of any cam I have used. It almost brings a smile to my face when I place one, which whilst meaning that I probably “need to get out more” they are actually bloody good cams and handle superbly. The large thumb loops add to this and make them feel very sure footed, even when placing them with gloved hands. This makes them ideal for UK winter climbers and also for Alpine use, yes there is a lot going on, wires wise with the trigger and head but it seems to be doing the job nicely.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/totem-cam-shipley.jpg?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/totem-cam-shipley.jpg)Totem Cams at home - Grit cracks. So do Totem Cams have many advantages over other cam units on the market? Well Totem Cams do  everything your standard cam will do. They don’t have the increased range of some of the double axle units out there but they certainly have the ease of use and holding power. What Totem Cams do have however, is an ability to be placed on two cams (yes you can place any cam on 2 cams) in a way where each stem transfers the load to it’s own two cams only. This apparently gives better holding power in such placements and whilst Totem Cams (http://www.totemcams.com/) prescribe this as a tool primarily for aid climbing it would certainly be better than nothing when you’re shitting it, way out on some UK trad horror!

RRP £54.95

Available direct from Totem MT (http://www.totemcams.com/catalogue/index.php?id=1)

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Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: The North Face Prophet 40 – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on July 07, 2011, 07:00:16 pm
The North Face Prophet 40 – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/07/07/the-north-face-prophet-40-climbing-gear-review/)
7 July 2011, 3:06 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/tnf-logo.png?w=300&h=268) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/tnf-logo.png)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/the-north-face-prophet-40.jpg?w=258&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/the-north-face-prophet-40.jpg)

‘The North Face have certainly been working hard to simplify the design, in fact the new Prophet bears little resemblance to it’s predecessor’ (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/the-north-face-prophet-40-main.jpg?w=502&h=282) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/the-north-face-prophet-40-main.jpg)The North Face Prophet 40 - a great all round mountain pack. Price ****

Quality *****

Performance***

The North Face  (http://uk.thenorthface.com/tnf-uk-en/cover/)have had a Prophet model in their extensive pack range for several years now; I owned an original blue Prophet 45 several years back and eventually sold it as I thought it was over designed, heavy and the straps were a nightmare during those windy howlers on The Ben. The model also had a make over 2 years back which improved some the issues such as weight reduction and a restyle, but it still seemed overly technical for an Alpine pack. So I was very keen to see if the new 2011 Prophet 40 (http://uk.thenorthface.com/tnf-uk-en/prophet-40.html?colour=749) was an improvement on my original pack and whether it would perform better.

The North Face have certainly been working hard to simplify the design, in fact the new Prophet 40 (http://uk.thenorthface.com/tnf-uk-en/prophet-40.html?colour=749) bears little resemblance to it’s predecessor, it’s sleek, light and stripped to the bone. It’s a full 400 grams lighter than the Prophet Mk 2 and the features have been obliterated, it now really does look the part: slim, lightweight and stylish. Gone are the detachable lid, crampon pocket, lashing cord, removable bivvy mat and wand pockets; in are super light indestructible fabrics, a fixed lid and a very cleverly concealed and useful side pocket.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/tnf-prophet-pocket.jpg?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/tnf-prophet-pocket.jpg)The clever, concealed pocket - big enough for guidebook and food. Firstly the über technical fabrics, the main body is made from 314 denier Cordura Bombastic™. This fabric is used in car airbags, no kidding and is the sort of real innovation that only a large corporation with dedicated design teams could pull off. It certainly felt superlight and at first I thought it wasn’t going to stand the test as it feels very flimsy, but it has withstood some real stick, including chimney thrutching. The base is double layered and the high wear ice tool area is reinforced with Hypalon™. The ice tool loops are made from SuperFabric™ a fabric you’ll hear more about in future outdoor products and was developed for NASA, so another innovative use of materials which helps the pack stand out in a very crowded market.

And onto the features, its all well and good having fancy fabrics but a pack lives and dies by its functionality. I’ve had more packs than I care to remember, all of them have had funny quirks that I didn’t quite like and so it proved with The North Face Prophet 40 (http://uk.thenorthface.com/tnf-uk-en/prophet-40.html?colour=749). The fixed lid and snow valance is another innovation; the valance is sewn into the upper part of the lid. This made the lid closure very simple and efficient; pull the cord and the lid falls down over the front of the pack, all very neat. In use it proved more awkward as it was very difficult fold the lid over and fill the pack and it quickly became a pain, especially on a belay when I was trying gain access to kit in the pack and had it clipped by the haul loop.  It became even more pronounced when I removed the aluminium backstay, the closure performs better with the stay in; it was a nifty way to close the lid though and with a little more work would be great. The lid pocket was vast; I could easily fit a lightweight belay jacket in plus gloves, hat, some food and camera. It had a mesh inner pocket and key clip that was big enough for my Blackberry, car keys and a wallet. It also had 4 cord loops so I could attach cord for lashing crampons or sleeping mats on; all the loops had reflective strips that were pretty effective in the dark, so it would be easy to locate with a headtorch on. Overall I found the lid excellent.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/the-north-face-prophet-malham.jpg?w=134&h=240) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/the-north-face-prophet-malham.jpg)TNF Prophet 40 - easily big enough for a day at the crag. I would have liked to have seen more cord loops on the main body as these are extremely useful for lashing extra bivvy kit on. Also located on the main body are the ice tool holders, tough elastic stitched onto a textured Hypalon patch and adjusted using a glove friendly, chunky cord locks. The tool loops, as said earlier are made from Superfabric™, a material developed for the space program. It looked just like any other woven pack webbing, but is much tougher ad lighter; again the loops are backed by a protective Hypalon patch. The loops are adjustable but not easily so they would have to be preadjusted to fit at camp or at home. The lid closure is a standard double buckle design which I find neat and tidy, there were no problems closing the pack, even with winter gloves on. There are 4, easy to adjust and close compression straps and a very clever and useful hidden side pocket that was big enough for a guidebook and a little food.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/tnf-prophet-waist-belt.jpg?w=210&h=158) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/tnf-prophet-waist-belt.jpg)The waist tucks in for climbing, it is also removeable. The waist belt is made from 50mm webbing, sewn into comfortable waist padding, it had 2 gear loops although I would have preferred ice clipper slots and tension straps for load stabilisation. The whole belt is removable via a hook and loop pad at the lumbar pad. The shoulder straps are a little too wide for me, but were comfortable under heavy loads, the sternum strap was adjustable on rails and there were two D rings sewn in so that I could clip on my GPS, watch or camera. A nice feature that more pack manufacturers should copy. The tension straps were easy to locate and use, even with gloves on.

Inside the pack was another, handy key clip. The single, aluminium stay was one of the easiest to locate, remove and replace that I have come across. There was also a removable polypropylene insert, but due to the materials the pack became very floppy when it was removed. Overall the pack performed much better with all the support in place. The pack volume is 40 litres (for the Large) and proved to be of Tardis like proportions, there was no way I could fill it with enough kit for a normal cragging day in summer. It easily swallowed all my winter kit with room to spare. It would be a great pack for an overnight bivvy or even a multiday backpacking/mountaineering trip. It would be perfect for a multiday glacier/mountain hutting trip and I wish I had it when I completed the Stubai Glacier Tour last year when space was at a premium.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/p1010972.jpg?w=614&h=346) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/p1010972.jpg)TNF Prophet 40 - useful for ultralight backpacking. The large nature of the pack though did impede when climbing and the length got in the way when looking up on technical ground, especially with a helmet on (but could have been down to the sample pack size which was a little too big for my back). So in conclusion, a great multiday, lightweight mountain pack that will suit all your mountain activities. A little too large for a cragging day pack and a definite improvement on the previous models.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/the-north-face-prophet-40-good-climbing-stability.jpg?w=230&h=307) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/the-north-face-prophet-40-good-climbing-stability.jpg)The North Face Prophet 40 - good climbing stability. I would have liked to have seen wand pockets (for stashing poles); daisy chain or reflective loops for attaching lashing cord on the main body; ice clipper slots instead of gear loops and slightly narrower shoulder straps. It’s a good offering from TNF in a crowded market and a definite improvement on both the original and revamped Prophet model. For those who are planning expeditions that need bigger packs the range also includes the Prophet 52 (http://uk.thenorthface.com/tnf-uk-en/prophet-52.html?colour=749) and the Prophet 65 (http://uk.thenorthface.com/tnf-uk-en/prophet-66.html?colour=749)

The North Face Prophet 40 (http://uk.thenorthface.com/tnf-uk-en/prophet-40.html?colour=749) comes in two sizes:

S/M 38 litres; M/L 40 litres

RRP £130

Stockists: www.tnf.co.uk

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Title: Kudrati Naturally – Vegetarian Freeze Dried Curry.
Post by: comPiler on July 19, 2011, 07:00:21 pm
Kudrati Naturally – Vegetarian Freeze Dried Curry. (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/07/19/kudrati-naturally-%E2%80%93-vegetarian-freeze-dried-curry/)
19 July 2011, 4:10 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/kudrati.jpg?w=242&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/kudrati.jpg) Tasty freeze dried bivvy scoff… Taste*****

Value***

RRP £3.25

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/img_0049.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/img_0049.jpg)Kudrati Naturally - just add boiling water. Strange things sometimes appear in the office – we get all sorts of small but useful products which don’t really qualify for a full review but …… That’s what happened with the food parcel that appeared one day: ‘Ey Up Dave you’re a backpacker and lentil lover so off you go’ said Kev passing me a packet of Kudrati Dhal Tadka (Lentil Curry). Anyway I found myself on a weekend trip in The Lakes, scrambling around and taking product shots for review kit. I like to make the most of the weekend so decided on an overnight camp in and around Coniston Old Man. So I fired up the stove and waited for the water to boil. I’ve been a fan of freeze dried bivvy food for years, I like the ease of preparation, I find the food tasty and I like the no washing up bit. I’m not eating it for days on end so not overly bothered about the nutritional value in terms of vitamins and minerals; more important is taste and calories. The Kudrati range provided plenty of taste, the Curry made up very easy, just boil up water and fill to the convenient fill line (so know guessing how much 468ml or other such nonsense is), wait a couple of minutes and hey presto! Yummy curry, I added the extra 100ml of water and made it a very filling soup, the addition of some noodles made it very filling.

So quality vegetarian bivvy scoff, ridiculously easy to make and most importantly very, very tasty!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/img_0053.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/img_0053.jpg)Kudrati Naturally - easy to make and tasty too.

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Title: Gear News – The Muka Stove From Soto
Post by: comPiler on July 20, 2011, 07:00:10 pm
Gear News – The Muka Stove From Soto (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/07/20/gear-news-the-muka-stove-from-soto/)
20 July 2011, 3:27 pm

The Muka stove from SOTO is the world’s first non-priming liquid fuel stove! (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/soto-muka.jpg?w=502&h=334) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/soto-muka.jpg)Soto Muka Stove ‘SOTO’ means ‘Outdoors’ in Japanese

Soto Outdoors – experts in creating innovative burners from conception to production.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/soto-muka-1.jpg?w=448&h=477) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/soto-muka-1.jpg)Soto Muka Packed Up The Muka stove from SOTO is the world’s first non-priming liquid fuel stove.  It has revolutionized the common understanding of a gasoline stove’s characteristics, no longer does the user need to put up with a dirty sooty stove, cumbersome preheating and endless maintenance before and after use.  Even with the use of commonly available unleaded petrol the stove burns clean and maintenance free.

This gas stove combines a reliable powerful output with ease of care. Muka is not a simple gasoline stove but the next generation of stove.

The stove ignites and burns like a gas stove and the soft, elongated and narrow diameter hose enables safe and easy operation.  The burner is controlled by the flame control knob located on the pump and gives excellent flame adjustment and incorporates an emergency stop button and pressure indictor.

The SOTO MUKA stove comes complete with a hose, pump, maintenance tool, carrying case and 700ml fuel bottle and retails for £175

Follow the link below to see this amazing and highly innovative stove in action:-

http://www.youtube.com/user/sotooutdoors/

Specifications:-

Output: 4,000 kcal/h 4,650 W 15,800 BTU

Applicable fuel: Unleaded petrol and white gasoline

Duration: Burns approx. 56 min. at maximum output

using 480ml (16.3 oz.)car gasoline.

Weight: 160g (5.6 oz.) without pump, 320g (11 oz.) including the pump.

Dimensions when in use (stove body only): 13.5 x 13.5 x 8cm (5.3 x 5.3 x 3.1 inch)

Dimensions when stowed (stove body only): 8 x 6.5 x 8cm (3.1 x 2.6 x 3.1 inch)

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Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Trekking the Stubai Glacier Tour; Stubai Hoehen Weg + Guidebook Review
Post by: comPiler on August 01, 2011, 01:00:12 am
Trekking the Stubai Glacier Tour; Stubai Hoehen Weg + Guidebook Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/07/31/trekking-the-stubai-glacier-tour-stubai-hoehen-weg-guidebook-review/)
31 July 2011, 6:37 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/at-the-wutenkarsattel.jpg?w=645&h=484) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/at-the-wutenkarsattel.jpg)Having a great time on the Wütenkarsattel A CGRUK destination article in the Austrian Alps… beautiful Alpine scenery and fabulous food! I had a week off and no partner so last year I tagged along with the Austrian Alpine Club on a tour of The Stubai Alps. I was in hallowed company with the leader being the Cicerone guidebook writer for the area and also the president of the UK section joined us. With great company and brilliant accommodation it’s probably a perfect week’s holiday, weather permitting but more of that later. The tour takes in all the main glaciers, high mountain huts and takes in some impressive alpine scenery. It’s a non technical tour so would be an ideal first adventure, but you do need to have crevasse rescue knowledge and be comfortable wandering around wet glaciers.

I caught a flight from Manchester in the UK to Munich in Germany. I then caught a train to Innsbruck and booked an overnight stay at The Weisses Cruz, a Ye Olde Worlde hotel just a stones throw from the Golden Roof with the added bonus of being able to leave baggage at the reception to be picked up after the tour.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/with-sean-innsbruck-aug-2010.jpg?w=368&h=277) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/with-sean-innsbruck-aug-2010.jpg)Sampling the Metropolitan delights of Innsbruck The tour itself starts at the village of Neustift, a half hour bus ride from Innsbruck. The purist can walk up to the Franz Senn hütte from the village; those with cash can catch a taxi to the car park at the Oberrisshütte. This has the advantage of gaining plenty of height and leaves you with a 1 hour walk to the hut. If you have even more cash you can send your rucksack up via seil bahn; pop your sack in the carriage, call the hut and up it whizzes, leaving you with a lovely stroll to the hut. The, excellent hut is well stocked and has hot showers, a variety of via ferrata, rock climbs, zip wires and lovely 4 course meals (these were a feature of the week and I found it hard to lose weight – which is one of the reasons I do these types of trip).

Day one can be a training day, a long but satisfying day that walks up to the Rinnennieder pass and drops down onto the Lusener Ferner glacier. Rope up here and a traverse of the glacier and short climb will land you on top of the Lusener Fernerkogel. Retrace your steps to the pass and back to the Rinensee tarn. From here, if you still have energy you can climb the Rinnenspitze a great little climb that has some excellent rock sections well protected with wires. Or just go and do the Rinnenespitze and then spend the afternoon climbing the great Via Ferrata which are a stones throw from the hut. Or you can whizz straight into day 2 if you feel fit and acclimatised.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/towards-the-wildgratscharte.jpg?w=430&h=323) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/towards-the-wildgratscharte.jpg)Heading towards the Wildgratscharte - look for a red arrow in the V Day 2 the tour proper begins, follow the valley to the bottom of the glacier (red splashes), rope up and gain steady height on the Alpineiner Ferner glacier. Your first navigation test then begins as you need to locate the Wildgratscharte pass (3170m). You need to have spot on navigation as it can be difficult to locate, especially as not many people use this pass any more and way is not marked. But as soon as you have gained the initial height and come to a rocky bluff, start looking to pass over to another small glacier on the right. You should know you are heading in the right direction as if you look carefully the pass is marked with a big white circle. You are looking for a red arrow on the rock to the right, as the new way over features rocky, exposed scrambling, well protected by wired via feratta. As you reach the top of this section you can look down and thank your lucky stars you haven’t had to climb the grotty old way up the ‘couloir of mud’! Drop down, still wired, until the wire stops. If it has snowed you will need a short abseil to reach the next section of wire which will deposit you on the Schwarzenbergferner glacier, all exciting stuff and you can relax in the knowledge that you’ve completed the technical part of the tour. If you are still bursting with energy, then head due west to the right of the Schrankogel and climb it, dropping SW, following red markers to pick up the path to the Amberger Hütte. You can also reach this point traversing the glacier in a SW direction and dropping down until you pick up the same red markers to the hütte. Hot showers, beer and another 4 course meal await. This is the longest day of the tour.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/heading-up-the-wired-section-on-the-wildgratscharte.jpg?w=491&h=369) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/heading-up-the-wired-section-on-the-wildgratscharte.jpg)Heading up the wired section on the Wildgratscharte Day 3 is a straight forward day but covers some beautiful mountain scenery. Head due S up the valley and pick up the Sulztalferner glacier, stay on the right hand side of this glacier heading S to the top of the Wütenkarsattel at 3103m, this then has a short drop onto the Wütenkarferner glacier and heads for the magnificent Hochstubaihütte at 3174m. There you will be greeted by the warden with a glass of schnapps and enjoy a real mountain hut experience; the beauty of this hut being that it takes real effort to get to so is populated by keen walkers and mountaineers. No hot shower here but awesome food and great beer.

Day 4 is a mixed day, drop back down onto the glacier and head E to the Warenkarscharte at 3186m, this is straight forward. Getting off can be problematic; there are markers to follow but the ground is very loose and requires real mountain sense to pick the safest line, if it has snowed, you may get some thigh deep avalanche debris, if not it could be scree. You are aiming to head E under the Windacher Daunkogel then SE to pick up the bottom of the ski tows at Bildstockljoch, a short height gain brings to the Jochdohle. It will often be busy here as it is a tourist destination; there is a café and expect a complete contrast to the loneliness of the day you’ve just had. From the top there is a marked piste across the glacier heading SE, more waymarked path leads to another excellent high mountain hut: the Hildesheimer Hütte.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/the-superlative-dresdener-hutte-if-only-the-cic-was-like-this.jpg?w=491&h=369) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/the-superlative-dresdener-hutte-if-only-the-cic-was-like-this.jpg)The superlative Dresdener Hutte - if only the CIC was like this! Day 5 – on my trip the weather crapped out here and we went back to the cable car to pick up the Stubaier Honenweg (the famous lower level route) at the Dresdeer Hütte where we still had time to climb two fantastic 250m Via Ferratas. Next day we then double hopped over to Sulzenauhutte for lunch then onto the Nurnberger Hütte. The tour proper makes for the Pfaffejoch (3208m) via some tricky manouvres to gain the Pfaffenferner, then make for the Wilder Pfaff (3456m), the high point of the tour, traversing the ridge EES to hit the Mullerhütte (3145m). It looks a great day and it was a real disappointment to not have done it. On the plus side it’s a great reason to do the tour again!

Day 6 – continue traversing the ridge NE to climb the Wilde Freiger (3418m). From the summit head NE and drop down to the Gamspitzl (3050m), take in the Urfallspitze (2805m) and onto the Nurnberger Hütte. This hut will be more busy as it’s on the Stubaier Honenweg, but it’s a great, welcoming hut with hot showers and once again, superb food. I was treated to the best hut night I’ve ever had with a full oompah band and the hut warden playing traditional Tyrolean music on his harp!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/the-pass-of-a-1000-cairns.jpg?w=491&h=369) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/11/the-pass-of-a-1000-cairns.jpg)The Pass of a 1000 cairns - very Tolkeinesque! Day 7 should see you heading down the valley due N to pick up the bus at Spitz and heading back to the metropolitan delights of Innsbruck.

A great high level tour taking in some superb high mountain scenery, great food and don’t forget the unmissable Weißbier – just don’t drink too much you’ve got a tough days mountaineering to do!

Essential Kit Austrian Alpine Club membership (http://www.aacuk.org.uk/) – not only do you get discounted rates at all the huts, you get great insurance too . You will easily save the membership fee on this trip alone.

Map – Kompass Stubaier Alpen 1:50 000 sheet 83. Bought at Munich airport and covers the whole route.

Silk sleeping bag liner – ooh err, you get to sleep in silky bliss. We booked rooms that had duvets: oh, the joys of middle aged wealth.

I got all my kit into a 35l Häglofs Roc (http://www.haglofs.com/en-US/products/backpacksbags/mountains-backpacks/unisex/roc_35_en-us.aspx) rucksack, with room to spare.

Boots- Scarpa Charmoz (http://en.scarpa.net/products/tech-mountain/charmoz-gtx/) + Smartwool socks (http://www.smartwool.com/mens/mountaineering-extra-heavy-crew-10.html). No blisters all week!

Crampons- Grivel Air Tech (http://www.grivel.com/products/ice/crampons/7-air_tech) I have tried fancy aluminium ski mountaineering in the past but they don’t last.

Ice axe –  Grivel Air Tech Racing (http://www.grivel.com/products/ice/ice_axes/8-air_tech_racing_sa). You can get lighter, and that’s fine. There was no technical use for the axe, but there were sections where you would need to arrest if you slipped.

Harness – Black Diamond Couloir (http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-gb/shop/climb/harnesses/couloir-harness). The perfect harness for this type of trip.

Crevasse rescue kit – 5 x screw gates, prussiks, ice screws and a variety of slings. I also carry a WC Ropeman (http://www.wildcountry.co.uk/products/ropeman-1-and-2/ropeman-3/) and Petzl Tibloc (http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/multi-purpose-ascenders/tibloc).

Clothing – Paclite jacket, paclite overtrousers, softshell trousers and jacket. Montane Bionic t-shirts (http://www.montane.co.uk/products/men/baselayer/bionic-t-shirt/74), 2 x Smartwool socks, Arc’teryx Atom jacket (http://www.arcteryx.com/Product.aspx?EN/Mens/Jackets/Atom-LT-Jacket#Insulated_Shell), baseball cap. Shades – cat 4. (http://www.adidas.com/Eyewear/hw07/content/terrex/terrex.asp)

Basic toiletries – you could shave and there was the odd hot shower. Linx bullets are the business for the odd ‘french shower’.

Wide mouthed Nalgene bottle. Stuff it with snow when you run out of water.

Guidebook Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/stubai-glacier-tour-2010-gdb.jpg?w=130&h=192) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/stubai-glacier-tour-2010-gdb.jpg)Trekking in The Stubai Alps, Allan Hartley, A Cicerone Guide. (http://www.cicerone.co.uk/product/detail.cfm/book/623/title/trekking-in-the-stubai-alps) What can I say; I can’t give an unbiased review about a guide that I feature in! The trip was designed for Allan to update the guidebook and May 2011 saw a new, updated version. It’s important to have the updated guide as the Glaciers will have changed since the last version. The guide is well set out and in order explains each day of the tour, with the highlights, quality photographs and snippets of history or hut lore to add interest. The diagrams are a clear aid to navigation and are backed up with any technical information you might need to help make your day an enjoyable one. The timings are about right, although if you go ultralight and are well versed in glacier travel you would beat them. The guide also offers hut excursions as you could extend your time on the glaciers by climbing several summits from most of the huts. The guide also covers the lower level and more extensive Stubai Rucksack Route.

I would have liked to see some mention of the rock climbing and via ferrata that were available at some of the huts. I would also liked to have seen some of the more important navigational features given WGS84 grid references to aid GPS programming as these are becoming an essential item of kit.

So, an indispensible guide for the trip, well laid out, accurate maps and timings and plenty of interesting anecdotes to keep you informed. The photos are good quality and will inspire you in your planning and my favourite part is the back pages where you can collect your hut stamps.

Do remember to join the Austrian Alpine Club before you visit as it’s worth its weight in gold and thanks to Allan Hartley (www.allanhartley.co.uk (http://www.allanhartley.co.uk/)) for allowing me to use some of his great photos.

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Title: Marmot Centaur 38 Rucksack – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on August 01, 2011, 01:00:18 am
Marmot Centaur 38 Rucksack – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/07/31/marmot-centaur-38-rucksack-climbing-gear-review/)
31 July 2011, 7:27 pm

 (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/centaur-38-colours.jpg?w=576&h=320) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/centaur-38-colours.jpg)Marmot Centaur 38...available in a range of colours  Marmot Centaur 38 Rucksack – a fully featured pack for year round use Performance ****

Quality *****

Value for money *****

RRP  £110.00

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/centaur-38-front.jpg?w=210&h=143) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/centaur-38-front.jpg)Marmot Centaur 38 front view Features:

- Removable Lid with Zippered Pocket and Key Clip

- Stow-able Waist Belt with Gear Loop and Carabiner Sleeves

- Hypalon Reinforced Haul Loops

- Storm Collar with Top Compression Strap

- Hydration Sleeve with Hanging Zippered Pocket

- Molded Back Panel

- Removable Frame Sheet – Versatilty

- Dual Ice Axe Loops

- Lid and Front Lash Points

- Integrated Vertical Rope Carry System

- Silicone Touch End Points on Webbing

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/centaur-38-back.jpg?w=210&h=163) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/centaur-38-back.jpg)Marmot Centaur 38 back view Specifications:

- Weight: Medium 2 lbs 13 oz / 1276 g

- Volume: Medium 2320 cu in / 38 liters

- Main Material: 210d Nail Head Nylon

- Main Material: 420d High Density Nylon

- Reinforcement Material: 840d Ballistic Nylon

 

 

 

——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————-

There are a few rucksacks around at the moment that fall into the day sack/cragging, 38 litre range. Of these, the Centaur 38 from Marmot (http://www.marmot.de/content/en/collection&c=104), is the newest on the market. This is obvious when you first see it. It has that ‘modern’ look. It is also available in some funky colours too, all very important to the performance of a good rucksack.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/centaur-scrambling-1-of-1.jpg?w=614&h=346) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/centaur-scrambling-1-of-1.jpg)Adam Lincoln tests the Marmot Centaur 38 Rucksack on some technical scrambling ground Now I have a rucksack I use for sport climbing days out. What I needed was something that is going to be up to a day out on Scafell, and days out on the sea cliffs of the UK. For this, a few things are vital. First and foremost, size. I can get my rack, rope, climbing shoes, chalk, spare chalk, food for the day and 2 litres of water comfortably in this sack. On top of that, you might want spare clothes as well. This will all fit in nicely. If you need that little bit more space, the rope can attach to the top of the sack, just under the lid via a retainer buckle. This buys you some more space inside for a few more essentials…or a bit more cake.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/centaur-view-1-of-1.jpg?w=614&h=346) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/centaur-view-1-of-1.jpg)Marmot Centaur 38 on the way to the crag with Adam Lincoln
“…it isn’t just a summer cragging bag. It has full winter functionality too.”
The next factor, and as important as the size, is the comfort. When slogging up to Scafell, the last thing you want to be worrying about is the heavy load on your back. Now whilst the sack doesn’t have the thickest padding around (it is cut for climbing specific activities) you won’t have any complaints either. It is fully adjustable too, so if it doesn’t fit quite right for you then you can make it fit. I had a little air pocket in the lumbar region on mine, but this was due to not getting the right size, and this could very easily be rectified. Just make sure when trying it on, you fill it up loaded with weight in the shop, and make sure you get the correct size for your height.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/centaur-taking-a-rest-1-of-1.jpg?w=168&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/centaur-taking-a-rest-1-of-1.jpg)Marmot Centaur 38 arrives at the crag The good thing about this ruckack is that it isn’t just a summer cragging bag. It has full winter functionality too. This means you don’t need to have two rucksacks if you go winter climbing. You can attach two ice axes easily, and the straps retain them very well indeed. Well, it did in the comfort of my living room, but then walking up to Scafell with some ice axes on my back last weekend (in summer!) might have raised a few funny looks. These straps are also removable so they don’t get in the way on summer cragging days. Just remember where you store them, so you don’t lose them.

The sack also has numerous haul loops and belay attachment points. Very useful when at the belay of the chosen route, and you don’t want the sack taking the ride down any steep slopes. The haul points are very strong and well stitched, so if the sack does need to be dragged up a pitch, or lowered down one, you can feel safe in the knowledge the point won’t fail. Also the ballistic nylon does a great job of protecting the sack from any abrasions and sharp edges.

On top of all the above the Centaur 38 has some other added features to make life easier. It is hydration pack compatible, very useful on long hikes when stopping for water is not ideal. It also has a floating lid. This means you can fully remove the top lid/pockets for reducing weight further, or just for making packing the sack, accessing the pack a much simpler process. All these features are designed to make life easier.

So in conclusion, if you are after a fully featured pack, that can give you year round use, that is just at home walking into Scafell in summer, or Ben Nevis in winter,  single pitch cragging at stanage, or multi pitch epics in the Dolomites, then this is the sack for you.



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Title: Haglöfs Rugged Mountain Pants – Mountain Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on August 08, 2011, 07:00:12 pm
Haglöfs Rugged Mountain Pants – Mountain Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/08/08/haglofs-rugged-mountain-pants-%E2%80%93-mountain-gear-review/)
8 August 2011, 5:50 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/haglc3b6fs_logo_basic-white-on-black.jpg?w=242&h=268) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/haglc3b6fs_logo_basic-white-on-black.jpg)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/rugged-mountain-pant.jpg?w=277&h=614) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/rugged-mountain-pant.jpg)Haglofs Rugged Mountain Pants - indestructible! CGR tries to destroy the indestructible Haglöfs Rugged Mountain Pants (http://www.haglofs.com/en-US/products/clothing/layers/climatic/men/rugged_mountain_pant_en-us.aspx) with the ultimate power force – the UK mountains! Performance****

Quality*****

Value for money****

Haglöfs, based in Sweden are renowned for making high quality and innovative mountain clothing and equipment. The kit they produce is well designed and made to last and so it proved with the Rugged Mountain Pants (http://www.haglofs.com/en-US/products/clothing/layers/climatic/men/rugged_mountain_pant_en-us.aspx). When I unpacked them I honestly thought they were a pair of rigger pants, they looked and felt absolutely indestructible. I tried them on and was instantly looking for my cordless drill and a white van! So with such a rugged look and feel did they fit the bill? CGRUK tried to destroy the indestructible with the ultimate power force – the UK mountains!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/haglofs-walking.jpg?w=614&h=346) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/haglofs-walking.jpg)Haglöfs Rugged Mountain Pants - great technical mountain pants. Firstly the style – the pants certainly look and feel the business: rugged feeling materials and heavyweight. The website does state that they are a heavy weight item and they felt heavy (760 grams) so they wouldn’t be suitable for a summer walk. Although I did wear them on two very hot days and the venting made them tolerable, just. The materials are a mixture of Haglöfs own Climatic Rugged™  (http://www.haglofs.com/en-US/products/clothing/fabrics/climatic/men/)which felt like proper canvas material and FlexAble™ (http://www.haglofs.com/en-US/products/clothing/fabrics/flexable/men/) fabric for the seat and knees which also felt very rugged, this was bonded to a smooth inner so as to aid movement over the knee area and reduced chafing.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/haglofs-rugged-scramble.jpg?w=614&h=346) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/haglofs-rugged-scramble.jpg)Haglöfs Rugged Mountain Pants - good articulation makes for easy climbing movement. They come in two colours, the test pair were black with orange pocket liners and seat liner, this made them easy to get on in a dark tent or mountain hut when wearing a headtorch – a neat feature. The DWR is a chemical free treatment and worked well until the pants became saturated, I have found this typical with all DRW treatments, they will shed a light shower but will saturate in more persistent rain. The heavyweight nature of the fabric also made them a little slow to dry, but nowhere near as bad as cotton.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/haglof-rugged-vent.jpg?w=222&h=294) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/haglof-rugged-vent.jpg)Haglöfs Rugged Mountain Pants - massive pockets and handy thigh vents. The size tested was a Medium, I measured them to be a 34” waist and a 32” inside leg. The waist was slightly elasticated so would give a little, I wore them with a belt and there a plentiful supply of burly belt loops. I would have liked to have seen some brace loops as I will definitely be wearing these as a winter climbing pant and I wouldn’t want to wear a belt under a harness. It also closed with a riveted button, thus adding to the rugged look and feel. There were two jeans style pockets at the front and a zipped rear pocket for valuables; there was also an inner folded pocket for hidden security of notes, etc. There were also two zipped thigh pockets that were enormous, I couldn’t even begin to list what I got into them and soon found myself looking like a bee with full pollen sacks. These proved really handy and my only complaints here was that I thought the zip closed the wrong way; they zipped down towards the inner thigh and I thought they would work better closing down towards my hamstring. Also the cell phone pocket was too small for both my Blackberry and Kev’s iPhone, you’d only get a slimline/old school phone in there. Great pockets though, I can see them being particularly useful when winter climbing, on belays when you need everything to hand.

The knees were well articulated and there was also a thigh vent, which proved very useful on hot days or steamy walk ins. All the seams were double and in some areas triple stitched. All the zips were YKK and the insteps were made of a very tough looking reinforced polymide fabric which again looked like canvas and acted as a handy crampon patch.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/haglofs-rugged-hem-cinch.jpg?w=180&h=135) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/haglofs-rugged-hem-cinch.jpg)Haglöfs Rugged Mountain Pants - handy hem cinch to help keep out dirt or snow. (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/haglofs-rugged-lace-hook.jpg?w=150&h=112) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/haglofs-rugged-lace-hook.jpg)Haglöfs Rugged Mountain Pants - lace hook to keep pants in place, a good winter feature. The hem had an adjustable closure system that pulled the pants tight around the boot and there was also a lace hook to hold the pants in position. Although I tested the pants in summer conditions I can see that these two features would be very useful in a winter climbing and mountaineering situations, especially when used with gaiters.

So, in conclusion, the super burly Haglöfs Rugged Mountain Pant (http://www.haglofs.com/en-US/products/clothing/layers/climatic/men/rugged_mountain_pant_en-us.aspx) are too heavy weight for a typical British summer but would make an outstanding technical mountaineering pant for all other mountain conditions. They would need another layer, such as merino baselayer for use in the winter and brace loops would help hold them up on the walk in. I’ve been wearing these solid all spring and summer and they still look like new. These very durable pants will last you a lifetime, in fact you could leave them in your will to the kids and they will get a lifetime of use out of them too.

RRP £125.00

Stockists: www.halgofs.com (http://www.haglofs.com/en-US/retailers/england/)

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Title: Tenaya Masai Climbing Shoe – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on August 16, 2011, 07:00:09 pm
Tenaya Masai Climbing Shoe – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/08/16/tenaya-masai-climbing-shoe-climbing-gear-review/)
16 August 2011, 1:17 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/tenaya-logo-redblog-size.jpg?w=611&h=190) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/tenaya-logo-redblog-size.jpg)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/tenaya-masai.jpg?w=300&h=290) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/tenaya-masai.jpg)Tenaya Masai Rock Shoe    ‘…the difference being these fit me and the Anasazi Verde don’t.’ (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/golf-war-6b-callerhues-shoe-testing.jpg?w=451&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/golf-war-6b-callerhues-shoe-testing.jpg)Tenaya Masai - great for heelhooking Performance ****

Quality *****

Value for Money *****

When the Tenaya Masai Climbing Shoe arrived for me to try, they couldn’t have come at a better time.  A long awaited trip to Kalymnos was finally here and I had heard the Masai’s were an ultra sticky, comfortable unisex climbing shoe.

I had decided to try the shoe in a 4 ½, (I normally take a 4).  I’m one of team tight shoe; I take comfort in knowing my feet can’t move around in my shoe at all, but then have to pull them off every ½ hour with a sigh of relief.  This is also a reason I always go for Velcro’s or slippers, easy on, easy off.

The Tenaya Masai climbing shoes are a slim fit lace up with a low volume heel, most women should be getting excited right about now, I know I was.  Most shoes I try on are too wide or high in the mid section, with an uncomfortably high heel which rubs constantly.  These aren’t; with a straight design and shape, if your foot fits it fits, there’s no waiting till you get on the wall for the shoes to fit, they merely mould themselves further onto your foot.

The Masai’s have been likened to the 5.10 Anasazi Verde in design, and I can definitely see the similarity; the difference being these fit me and the Anasazi Verde don’t.

So let’s talk a little about the stats; well the Masai’s are made with micro fibre and not leather, with TXT treated cotton lining, so a good start for all vegan climbers out there.  The out sole is made from Vibram XS Grip 4mm; translation: ‘über sticky’.   And the sizing is pretty spot-on for your regular shoe size, depending on your penchant for foot pain if you prefer the smaller sizes.  Sizes range from 3-13 UK including half sizes.

Well when the Tenaya Masai’s arrived I was still a bit worried about my sizing choice, a 4 ½ is a pretty big decision for me and I was really hoping I’d done the right thing.  I put them on with a little dismay and lo! I found that they fitted perfectly; and by this, I meant they didn’t hurt!  My toes where at the end but they weren’t scrunched up in the usual foetus position; I could wander around in them as if they were my trainers.  Well my first thought was, okay then, I have some cold weather shoes, socks will get in there just fine.   But then I started climbing in them, just at the indoor wall that I work in, and I started to change my mind.  These shoes didn’t need to be tight or arched, they just did their job.  They stayed tight to my foot and stuck to the wall, like glue I might add.

So happy again I packed them up for my trip to Kalymnos; happy because I realised feet expand in the heat and all my other shoes are more for pixies than humans.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/tenaya-masai-vibram-xs.jpg?w=300&h=200) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/tenaya-masai-vibram-xs.jpg)Ultra sticky Vibram XS soles for tricky smears. Kalymnos is full of hundreds of beautiful sports climbing routes made from limestone. The temperature was mid twenties and the only worry I had was that the shoes are so sticky they would come off my foot before they came off the routes!

They smeared perfectly when needed and the toe was precise and stable.  I’m a fan of using my heel, if there’s a heel hook I’ll use it, and if the heel slips I quickly lose confidence in the shoe.  The Tenaya Masai’s stayed closed around my heels with help from a wide band of rubber that surrounds the heel, and feels like it pulls the rest of the foot in closer.

I wore the shoes all day in comfort and found them easy to pull on and off.  I have pretty slim feet and found myself tightening the laces to the max to make them fit, so if your feet are any slim you may have to try on several pairs to get just the right fit.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/lestrygon-6c-shoe-testing.jpg?w=267&h=402) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/lestrygon-6c-shoe-testing.jpg)Tenaya Masai - all day comfort on long routes. I’ve worn the shoes now for about 2 months and am finding myself wearing them more and more.  They are my comfortable shoe, the shoe I wear on long routes and don’t want to worry about heels slipping and toes hurting.  Thanks to the materials used, they haven’t stretched and I don’t expect them too.  I was worried that the soles would wear quickly, and they did pick up the characteristics of the limestone when I was away; but their holding firm with no other signs of wear.

I’ve tried the shoe for bouldering and maybe in a smaller size I would be happier with them.  Saying this, they do the job.  For smearing they are great, and I’ve already raved about the heel.  The edging is pretty good on slabs, and I feel confident putting my full weight on my feet in some pretty slim conditions; but deep down, I still like my bouldering shoes to look like a scythe and 9 out of 10 times feel like one too!  But that’s just personal preference, and I’m sure my feet don’t agree with me.

Tenaya made these shoes for long technical routes and that’s what they’re good at.  If all you do is boulder and want hyper performance, there’s a whole host of painful shoes out there for you.  The Tenaya Masai’s do exactly what they say on the tin, no messing.

So do I like the shoe? Yes; in fact I love them for routes.  Confidence in your shoes is a big thing, how much a shoe can really help you is questionable, but when it really comes down to it,  climbing isn’t just a physical sport, its mentally strenuous as well, and to have one less thing to worry about is a bit of a bonus.

And let’s be honest here, if the shoes are good enough for the Pou brothers, they’re definitely good enough for me.

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(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/aphrodite-7a-action-shot.jpg?w=99&h=150) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/aphrodite-7a-action-shot.jpg)Katie Mundy in action. About Katie -  Katie Mundy is 28; she lives, works and climbs out of that beautiful hidden gem: Northumberland. She earns her living as a freelance Climbing Instructor and makes a mean espresso at her brother’s coffee house on Holy Island.  She’s been climbing since she was 18; and after moving to Switzerland caught the sports climbing bug and has been addicted ever since.  She spent a further few years climbing, snowboarding and having a fine old time throughout The Alps.  Her hidden talents include: writing her first children’s book about Holy Island, which is where she grew up.

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Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: The North Face – Spring/Summer 2012 Collection, sneak preview! Gear News.
Post by: comPiler on August 21, 2011, 01:00:30 am
The North Face – Spring/Summer 2012 Collection, sneak preview! Gear News. (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/08/20/the-north-face-springsummer-2012-collection-sneak-preview-gear-news/)
20 August 2011, 6:34 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/tnf-logo.png?w=300&h=268) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/tnf-logo.png)

Climbing Gear Reviews takes a look at the forthcoming 2012 collection from The North Face. Taking a morning out of my Lakeland holiday, CGR was invivted to The North Face UK HQ for a sneak preview of the new Spring Summer 2012 clothing range. Perhaps you’ve driven by on your way to complete the Kentmere Horshoe, or bouldered at Little Font or Badger Rock, or even been for fab coffee and cakes at Wilf’s. I bet you didn’t know you were very close to the UK HQ of The North Face, tucked away in the sleepy backwater of Staveley, Cumbria.

Greeted by the lovely and knowledgable Penny I was shown the complete collection for next year, here are some of the pieces I think you should be looking out for:

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/m-alpine-project-jacket.jpg?w=132&h=150) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/m-alpine-project-jacket.jpg)The North Face Project Alpine Jacket Alpine Project Jacket, a great looking lightweight shell made from GoreTex Active Shell, lighter than Paclite a great looking fully featured fully zipped shell to keep in your pack for when the weather turns nasty.  There is also a stylish womens version.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/m-alpine-project-wind-jacket.jpg?w=132&h=150) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/m-alpine-project-wind-jacket.jpg)The North Face Alpine Project Wind Jacket Alpine Project Wind Jacket, a fully featured smock style pullover for when the wind gets up, it’s got a DWR so should even shed the odd shower or two. This looks like a beefed up version of the popular Verto wind jacket.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/m-snake-eyes-full-zip-jacket.jpg?w=132&h=150) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/m-snake-eyes-full-zip-jacket.jpg)The North Face Snake Eyes Full Zip Jacket Snake Eyes Full Zip Jacket – is this a contender for the mighty Patagonia R1? Could be; made from Polartec Powerdry and featuring a grid pattern to wick out that burly sweat, a napoleon pocket for the Blackberry and even a couple of handwarmer pockets. Looks versatile enough for all your mountain activities.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/m-verto-s4k-gtx.jpg?w=128&h=150) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/m-verto-s4k-gtx.jpg)The North Face Verto SK4GTX Verto S4K GTX, a new venture for TNF. They’ve been making footwear for some time now and most will have heard of or owned a pair of Hedgehogs. They’ve used that knowledge to produce a range of lightweight performance mountain boots and the Verto SK4 looks a nice lightweight technical boot. It is crampon compatible but its lack of front bale lip means that it’s more suitable for summer alpine or UK winter mountaineering. It looks a nice boot though and I reckon they looked good enough for UK Mixed up to Grade V.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/gore-tex-gaiter.jpg?w=132&h=150) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/gore-tex-gaiter.jpg)The North Face Gore-Tex Gaiter To go with the boots TNF have produced another first for them – gaiters. You’re either a gaiter fan or not. I am, as I feel my feet are warmer and drier with them on, especially in the bitter December months when the snow hasn’t consolidated. So, the Gore-Tex Gaiter (that’s it, no aggressive name for these) are made from heavy duty 3 Layer Gore-Tex and Bombastic Cordura.  Reinforced with burly Hypalon in all the high wear areas including a separate interior instep loop for emergency repair. They are also colour coded for ‘fast on/off’ (as we know you’ll be desperate to get out of your pit and crank when it’s 3.00am and -12ºC).

There’s also some other footwear, so look out for the Havoc Mid Hiking boots and shoes which look pretty funky. The Verto pack (which we reviewed this spring) now comes in a 32L version and continues the ultralight, packable concept.

There is also a couple of pairs of climbing specific pants that interested us:

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/m-highball-pant.jpg?w=132&h=150) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/m-highball-pant.jpg)The North Face Highball Pant M (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/w-highball-pant.jpg?w=132&h=150) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/w-highball-pant.jpg)The North Face Highball Pant W The Highball Pants – are made from a durable and stretchy

Nylon material and have some climbing specific features

such as diamond gusset, articulated knees and a harness compatible waistband.

The bouldering dudes and chicks also get their way with the funky, urban looking Bat Hang Demin Pants. Double layer knees, diamond gusset, articulated knees and a slight stretch mean you can crank those high steps and rap to your hearts content.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/tnf-diez-jacket.jpg?w=129&h=150) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/tnf-diez-jacket.jpg)The TNF Diez Jacket- premium fill and ultralight. For Autumn 2011 there’s the timely Diez jacket, designed as a premier layer: Highest Quality 900 fill down insulation combined with Pertex 20 denier nylon ripstop fabric and welded baffles offering lightweight protection during all-out, alpine-style summit attacks. RRP £230

There’s stacks more on offer but we’ve selected the products that we feel would interest climbers so look out for them in the shops this coming winter and spring and Climbing Gear Reviews will be reviewing some of them to help you make an informed decision.

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Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Sprayway Havanna Pants – Mountain Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on September 07, 2011, 07:00:11 pm
Sprayway Havanna Pants – Mountain Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/09/07/sprayway-havanna-pants-mountain-gear-review/)
7 September 2011, 5:47 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/sw_black_fawol.jpg?w=300&h=73) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/sw_black_fawol.jpg)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/sprayway-havanna-pants.jpg?w=295&h=614) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/sprayway-havanna-pants.jpg)Sprayway Havanna Pants. Performance ***

Style ****

Value for Money *****

CGR puts the durable Sprayway Havanna Pants to the test on the hill. Earlier in the year we tested the Sprayway Crux jacket, to compliment this they also sent a pair of the durable and hardwearing Havanna Pants. They’re billed as a … ‘Durable, nylon trousers with DWR and plenty of pockets that look great on and off the hill.’

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/p1010931.jpg?w=614&h=346) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/p1010931.jpg)Sprayway Havanna Pants -  good on and off the hill. My first impressions were that they were, indeed a stylish pair of walking trousers. They were well cut and comfortable, I was sent a size medium/32 and regular length. I’m usually between a 32 and 34” waist and they were a generous fit, so a Medium would fit up to a 34” waist. I needed to wear a belt with them. The regular length was a 31” inside leg so a good all round size. They were a tapered cut with a generous 1” hem, so there would be room for letting them down up to ¾”. The trousers did look stylish and I felt I could wear them casually, whilst on holiday wandering around Keswick, drinking coffee and look smart enough.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/sprayway-havanna-pant-good-breathability.jpg?w=614&h=346) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/sprayway-havanna-pant-good-breathability.jpg)Sprayway Havanna Pant - good breathability. The waistband was double stitched, has plenty of belt loops and was closed with a solid metal button fixed with bartacked tape, so you shouldn’t be losing that. The fly was fastened with a YKK zip, I found the zip tag too small and fiddly to grab when caught short. The crotch and seat seams were double stitched, as were the outer leg seams, the manufacture looked to fit the durable image, they felt well made.

There were 5 pockets, two front, two back and one thigh, on the right hand leg. The front pockets were large enough to fit hands plus other small items such as a Buff. The rear pockets were excellent, they were just open pockets, easy to stuff hankies, wallet, phone and all sorts of niknaks. Rear and front pockets aided ventilation  as they were half mesh lined, they high wear area next to the leg was made from the same material as the pants and the other half was mesh. The thigh pocket was bellowed and large enough to fit plenty of small items such as hats and gloves into. It was wide enough to fit a laminated OS map into as well as compass and GPS. The button fastening ensured that items were kept secure, but I found them awkward to use on the go. The buttons were the same as the wait closure and proved difficult to open and close effortlessly, it always seemed to be a faff. After an while I left them unbuttoned, I felt it would be better to have had velcro fastenings.

The nylon material felt very nice next to the skin, almost like hard wearing cotton in feel and look. The weave was tight enough to keep out a reasonable amount of wind and felt breathable when labouring uphill. They dried out very quickly when sweating and didn’t feel sticky. The 3M DWR did a good job of shedding light showers but soon became saturated, they dried out super quick with the lightest of breezes. The fit was generous enough for scrambling and even good for rockclimbing.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/sprayway-havanna-pant-good-cut-for-climbing.jpg?w=614&h=346) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/sprayway-havanna-pant-good-cut-for-climbing.jpg)Sprayway Havanna Pant - good cut for climbing. They were easy to wash and I just popped them in the machine with my normal washing. 30mins in the tumble drier bought the DWR back to an acceptable level.

So a great 3 season walking pant, suitable for most hillwalking adventures and stylish enough for mooching around town and country too.

They come in 4 colours and there is also a women’s version.

RRP £??.??

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Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Osprey Mutant 28 Pack – lightweight rucksack. Gear News
Post by: comPiler on September 11, 2011, 06:49:15 am
Osprey Mutant 28 Pack – lightweight rucksack. Gear News (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/09/07/osprey-mutant-28-pack-lightweight-rucksack-gear-news/)
7 September 2011, 6:13 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/09/osprey-logo.jpg?w=164&h=125) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/09/osprey-logo.jpg)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/09/mutant-28.jpg?w=199&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/09/mutant-28.jpg)Osprey Mutant 28 Osprey bring out a Alpine version of the classic Mutant Pack… The award winning Mutant climbing pack originally launched in 2008 was designed in cooperation with athletes on the quest for the perfect climbing pack. This Autumn/Winter 2011 sees a 28 litre addition to compliment the range of clean, strong and lightweight packs for alpine adventures.

The new Mutant 28 has been designed for lighter, faster and shorter ascents and has a clean design providing the user with essential features only. To give the range a fresh, modern feel, Osprey’s tweaked a few features and given the existing Mutant 38 and the new 28 an invigorating hi-vis green colour-way to give what we feel is the ultimate lightweight mountain pack choice.

The Mutant 28 sports a select, well-researched set of features whilst the Mutant 38 has been revised to bring it in line with this new addition:

•Lightweight, durable construction

Durability and abrasion resistance are crucial factors in alpine pack design. A strategic mix of highly durable and lightweight fabrics enables the perfect blend of lightweight performance and dependable durability.

•Stability

With two sizes to choose from, compression-molded and contoured backpanel, you get a great fit and breathablecomfort. Low profile hip fins (Mutant 28) and a reverse-wrap stowable hipbelt (Mutant 38) guarantee unrivalled levels of stability and control.

•Top ‘X’ Compression

This unique new feature allows the Mutant 28 & 38 to be further compressed once the lid’s been removed it alsoprovides additional closure security against the elements and allows you to “clean-up” redundant straps and buckleswhen the lid’s removed.

•Strippable Features

Weight is sometimes more crucial than features. Fully strippable pack components allow features such as lids (Mutant 28 and 38), hipbelt webbing (Mutant 28), framesheet/bivi-pad (Mutant 38) and compression straps (Mutant 28 and 38) to be easily and quickly removed.

•Hipalon Racking System (UPDATED)

This modern, useful racking method has been refined and now uses Hipalon Racking Tubes and a mini gear loop.

•ToolLock™

A lightweight, easy, innovative attachment for ice axes or modern modular tools.

•Pockets

Lid pockets for quick access as well as internal ‘essentials’ pocket for when the lid is removed.

Colours: Mutant 28 Alloy and Forest

Prices: Mutant 28 SRP: €80/£70/NOK 800

Look out for the CGR review later this Autumn!

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Title: Arc’teryx R320-a Rock Climbing Harness – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on September 16, 2011, 01:00:28 am
Arc’teryx R320-a Rock Climbing Harness – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/09/15/arcteryx-r320-a-rock-climbing-harness-climbing-gear-review/)
15 September 2011, 7:18 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx1.jpg?w=300&h=197) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx1.jpg)

(http://climbinggearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/Arcteryx-R320a.png) (http://climbinggearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/Arcteryx-R320a.png)Arc'teryx R320-a adjustable rock climbing harness CGRUK tests the versatile and improved Arc’teryx R320-a harness Performance *****

Features*****

Value for Money ****

I couldn’t begin to describe the excitement I felt when I bought my Arc’teryx X350-a (http://www.arcteryx.com/Product.aspx?EN/Mens/Climbing_Gear/X-350a)  harness, this was the the top of the range harness with state of the art WARP technology. I marvelled at the hyper-thin waistbelt and legloops; I revelled in the sheer beauty of it’s design and amazingly it came in a tin: for goodness sake a harness in a tin, with the Arc’teryx fossil imprinted on it! It felt that I had bought the most luxurious and decadent item of climbing equipment ever. That harness cost me £100 and was the top of the range, I have since used it for all my climbing activities from easy rock days, tough redpoints and ice climbing – it has performed in all the ways I would have expected a piece of Arc’teryx kit: brilliantly.

(http://climbinggearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/Arcteryx-harness-malham-1024x576.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/Arcteryx-harness-malham.jpg)Arcterys R320-a - verstaile enough for sport or trad The new 2011 Arc’teryx R-320a (http://www.arcteryx.com/Product.aspx?EN/Mens/Climbing_Gear/R-320a) dropped into the office to much excitement and discussion, it’s not the most expensive harness in the range (the R-360a Big Wall harness holds that accolade), but it is the most versatile. With the x350a being such a brilliant harness I was very keen to see how Arc’teryx could improve it.

The first and immediate notice was…no tin! The harness came in a standard netted package which would make it easier for product display. But hey, a minor point and I’ll have to find something else to put my cakes in. The R-320a (http://www.arcteryx.com/Product.aspx?EN/Mens/Climbing_Gear/R-320a), at 347g is 22g lighter but then doesn’t have ice clipper slots and the leg loop is put together in a different way and this all helps reduce the weight. It is important to point out that the R-320a (http://www.arcteryx.com/Product.aspx?EN/Mens/Climbing_Gear/R-320a) isn’t marketed as a winter climbing harness (they have the über light M-280 for that and the X350-a (http://www.arcteryx.com/Product.aspx?EN/Mens/Climbing_Gear/X-350a) is still in the range) but as an all round rock climbing harnesss and that’s what I tested it as.

(http://climbinggearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/Arcteryx-harness.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/Arcteryx-harness.jpg)Arcteryx R-320a the new wider waistbelt makes it very comfortable. The harness still uses the innovative Warp Strength Technology, for those who haven’t come across this it’s a way of spreading the webbing fibres over a larger surface area, this thins out the harness and allows a much broader waistbelt and leg loops for a much reduced weight and absolutely no loss in the rated kN. All very state of the art; the waistbelt was indeed very thin and broad and this made the harness much more comfortable than the X-350a. It was a dream on hanging belays: I never had to suffer an aching back or sore hips even when hanging for long periods. This was a definite improvement and by far the most comfortable harness I worn for hanging belays, great stuff.

(http://climbinggearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/R320-a-has-different-legloop-attachment.-300x225.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/R320-a-has-different-legloop-attachment..jpg)leg loop attaches differently but the buckles are excellent quality. The buckle system on both the waist and legs was very smooth, it was self locking and easy to tighten and loosen off, even with gloves on. The finish was outstanding and just the sort of subtle detailing you would expect from Arc’teryx. The excess tape was tided up with oversized loops, this was a real improvement on the older models as they could often be fiddly, especially with gloves on. The webbing did come out on occasion, particularly on the legloops as the loops were too wide to secure the tape tightly.

The gear loops had been improved by widening the front ones, this meant that I could put more hardwear where I needed it, I could easily fit a couple of sets of wires, some cams and 5 quickdraws on the front ones. The rear ones remain standard and could easily accommodate some more cams, quickdraws, belay plates, etc. The gearloop design was assymetrical and could be reversed. This was theoretically great as it meant I could reverse the loops so that quickdraws weren’t swinging around my thighs. In practice I could only do this using a Leatherman and it was very fiddly, not something that would be easy to do in the field.

(http://climbinggearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/double-harness-shot-300x200.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/double-harness-shot.jpeg)The gear loops are adjustable. The legloops were attached with very thin looking elastic, I’ve had my X-350a for well over a year now and the elastic still looks robust and shows no sign of wear, so I can only expect the same. They were attached to the waist belt with a small, polished, aluminium buckle; this made them easy to detach for toilet visits.

There was a small, plastic D ring on the back of the harness for clipping chalkbags into. I often use this for clipping my prussicks and ascenders into and I would like to have seen this ring made from welded aluminium, steel or even better and small sewn tape. No matter how well moulded the plastic ring it’s going to break eventually and so there is always a tiny worry at the back of my mind. This is a small detail that Arc’teryx should pick up on for future designs.

(http://climbinggearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/Acteryx-harness-sport-climbing-576x1024.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/Acteryx-harness-sport-climbing.jpg)Great for sport climbing. So a great offering from Arc’teryx and a real improvement on the previous models. The wider waistbelt is very welcome and it will excel in all rock climbing situations. With the addition of a couple of ice clipper slots it would also replace the x-350a and be a most awesome all round harness.

Stockists: www.arcteryx.com (http://www.arcteryx.com/Find-A-Store.aspx?EN)

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Title: Hagolfs Roc Hard- Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on October 02, 2011, 01:00:21 pm
Hagolfs Roc Hard- Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/10/02/hagolfs-roc-hard-climbing-gear-review/)
2 October 2011, 8:50 am

(http://climbinggearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/Hagl%C3%B6fs_Logo_Basic-white-on-black.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/03/27/gear-news-smartwool-baselayers/1093-revision-4/) (http://climbinggearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/Roc-Hard2.png) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/03/27/gear-news-smartwool-baselayers/1093-revision-5/)

Are CGR hard enough for the indestructible Haglöfs Roc Hard climbing pack…? Not content with sending us a pair of Rugged Mountain Pants to try and destroy Haglöfs also provided us with the new Roc Hard pack: the burly, no nonsense all mountain day pack.

Way back in June 2009 I reviewed the new Roc climbing pack series for Haglöfs: http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=1916 . I concluded that review with the words…” It is a great all mountain sack. It fits like a dream and swallows kit. It will fulfil all your requirements for a variety of mountain adventures and will last you years. Do all the fancy extras warrant the extra price tag? No, it’s not the perfect sack and so the quest continues.”

We’ll whilst the quest still continues and after testing many packs I still actually use the Roc 35 for many of my climbing activities. So can the Roc Hard help change my mind. There are 5 packs in the Roc range and the Roc Hard is marketed as a bombproof pack that will last. They have used Mountain Guides to help develop this and that expertise shows through in the design features.

(http://climbinggearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/Haglofs-Roc-Hard-hiking-1024x576.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/04/02/the-north-face-comes-to-liverpool-gear-news/1102-revision/)

The durable image did indeed show through in the materials. The main body was made from a combination of 840 Denier Ballistic fabric, this had a tight weave and looked the business, it was coated on the inside with a white waterproof skin. This helped locate awkward items in dim light conditions. The high wear areas were made from the even beefier 1680D Ballistic material, all areas that might suffer from excessive abrasion such as the front, lid and base were made from this and coloured Gunmetal. It had a tight weaved polymide skin bonded to it to give a double thickness feel to the fabric. So, no namby pamby lightweight materials here, I’d have to physically cut the material with a very sharp knife to pierce it. I’ve been using it all summer for climbing, mountaineering and hillwalking and it’s showing no sign of wear whatsoever.

(http://climbinggearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/Haglofs-Roc-Hard-scramble.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/05/07/boreal-krypto-rock-shoe-climbing-gear-review/1201-revision-22/)

The lid was detachable with the very clever system that the Roc had used. It loops through a sewn loop on the Roc this sewn loop came unstitched and on close inspection I would have liked to have seen some bartack stitching on these) and the tape remains attached to the lid. The lid can then be left at base whilst you have a lighter summit/climbing pack. The shoulder strap tension tapes could either stay on or unbuckled and stashed in pockets located on the shoulder strap giving a sleek climbing style. The lid also had two pockets, one large top pocket easily big enough for hats gloves, headtorch, map, compass, energy bars and GPS. The inner pocket had a keyclip and was plenty big enough for wallet, Blackberry, guidebook and all sorts of odd and ends. The lid closure was with two buckled 25mm taped straps so provided great stability when loaded up with kit and balancing the rope on top. The main pack had a rope carry so could be used without the lid. All great improvements on the original Roc.

(http://climbinggearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/Roc-Hard-GAC.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/?attachment_id=1214)

The shoulderstraps were plenty narrow enough for my shoulders and made from the same 1680 D Ballistic fabric in the high wear areas. The padding was firm and the strapped were well bartacked to the main body, and looking at it they were unlikely to ever come undone. The sterum strap was railed on 20mm sewn tape, once again reverting to a tried and trusted burly system. Although the strap was bartacked at the end where it met the shoulder strap, it wasn’t at the other end. One feature I really liked on the original Roc was the sewn label on the shoulder strap, this label meant I could easily thread my watch through or clip my GPS onto, both useful when winter climbing/mountaineering. I noted that the label needed to be more robust at the time. On the Roc hard not only was the label more robust I had two sewn tapes across the shoulder strap! A real improvement and very handy features.

(http://climbinggearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/Haglofs-Roc-Hard-watch-300x225.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/?attachment_id=1209)

The waistbelt was narrow enough to be unobtrusive and was reinforced with Hypalon. It tucked into the lumbar pad I to help tidy the pack up for climbing. The Interact Suspension system comprised of a single Aluminium stay, two small glass fibre rods together with a HDPE framesheet. All these were removable; as ever I removed the aluminium stay and never replaced it finding it unnecessary in so small a pack. Maybe if I was on an extended ski or snowshoe tour it could be handy, but for everyday climbing/mountain situations I never felt the need for it.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/roc-hard-ice-axe2.jpg?w=300&h=225) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/roc-hard-ice-axe2.jpg)The ice axe loops tucked away to streamline the pack. The ice axe retainers were made from thick and burly, elasticated shockcord and were very glove friendly to use. The loops were made from 20mm sewn tape and could be tucked away by threading them through a small hole under the Hypalon reinforcement, they were a little fiddly to get back in and I preferred the sleeved design of the Roc. Again a neat feature that helps the pack look and feel sleek for summer rock climbing. The snow valance was large enough to extend by 4 litres and was closed with cord, I would have liked to see 4 or 5mm prussick cord used here, this is what I did the Roc and it’s just an insurance feature in the Alps or Scotland in winter.

The back length was great for me and I could climb unimpeded with a helmet on brilliant there aren’t many packs I’ve tested where I can do that! One other interesting note was the lack of a hydration bladder pocket. This is the point that verified the claim that the pack had been designed with the help of Guides. I have rarely seen a Guide using a hydration bladder and dropped using them myself a long while ago for the following reasons – it’s difficult to regulate your liquid intake, the end will always freeze no matter how much insulation you put over it and it’s never wise to fill them with boiling liquid (in the winter). So, a real feather in Haglöfs cap.

In conclusion it has some great features and is an improvement of the original Roc. I’ve been using it all summer and will continue to use all Autumn and for mountain activities in Winter. At 30 Litres it’s a little too small for winter climbing but will be fine for skiing and snowshoeing. I would have liked some tabs for adding lashing shockcord so I could lash crampons, etc. It’s missing wand pockets and I prefer the sleeve system for ice axe retention and at 1400g it’s no ultralight, namby pamby carrier bag type pack. It will last for years and is truly a Ballistic pack, a great buy if you want an all purpose day pack that will outlast your knees then this is the pack for you.

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Title: Patagonia Rock Guide Zip Off Trousers – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on October 05, 2011, 06:54:14 pm
Patagonia Rock Guide Zip Off Trousers – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/10/05/patagonia-rock-guide-zip-off-trousers-climbing-gear-review/)
5 October 2011, 1:24 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/logo.jpg?w=512&h=102) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/logo.jpg)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/msrockguidepants.jpg?w=300&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/msrockguidepants.jpg)Patagonia Men's Rock Guide Zip-offs in Forge Grey Two for the price of one on rock climbing legwear from Patagonia…. Performance *****

Quality*****

Value for money *****

RRP £80.00

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/verto-3.jpg?w=512&h=288) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/verto-3.jpg)Patagonia Rock Guide Zip Off Trousers, Retro Khaki - full leg mode rock climbing at Malham Patagonia describe their Rock Guide Zip Off Pants (http://www.patagonia.com/eu/enGB/product/mens-rock-guide-zip-off-pants?p=56570-0-961) as being: “Stretch woven, technical zip-off pants that are lightweight, stretchy, and dry fast with 40-UPF.”

Now I’ll be honest, when I see zip-off convertible trousers I usually think,”woah, bit uncool, my Dad would wear them!” But as Patagonia are a brand renowned for quality, no messing technical products, I thought I’d reserve judgment until I’d worn and tested them.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/p1030857.jpg?w=168&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/p1030857.jpg)The sun's coming out!!Patagonia Rock Guide Zip Off trousers, zipping off on a warm seaside day, Carn Kenidjack, Cornwall So what are they like? Well, as far as I can tell the Rock Guide Zip Offs are pretty much the same as the standard Rock Guide Pants (http://www.patagonia.com/eu/enGB/product/mens-rock-guide-pants?p=56635-0-176) except that they zip-off at the knee so you get trousers and shorts in one!! Not quite two for the price of one as the zip offs cost an extra tenner to buy, but not bad either! Perfect for the weight conscious traveler or climber who doesn’t want to carry a pair of shorts and a pair of trousers or for those optimistic days when the sun might just get out!

The trousers feature a tough fabric which is a combination of 96% stretch woven nylon and 4% spandex. This provides excellent freedom of movement and to further aid those wide bridging moves and high steps Patagonia have also included a gusseted crotch and articulated knees. When wearing a harness there is no bunching up around the legs either and the mesh lined waist belt sits comfortably flat and doesn’t interfere with that of a climbing harness.

Considering it’s light weight, the fabric is also proving to be incredibly tough. I have used these on all rock types from nice gneiss to grippy gritstone and granite and so far not even a nick. I’ve also used them for a bit of brambley jungle bashing and a few Alpine trails. The trousers resist wind effectively too but are not 100% windproof. The combination of materials which make up the fabric, coupled with a Durable Water Repellent Finish (DWR) mean they also dry remarkably quickly should you get caught in a shower. This is also handy if you are giving them a freshen up whilst on your travels, they’re not gonna take days to drip dry!

If the sunshine is beating down the Rock Guides also double as sun-screen having been impregnated with Factor 40UPF sun protection. This is perfect for the pale skinned amongst us!

Other features on the trousers are 4 pockets and a single button waist with belt loops and a zip fly. The pocket configuration features 2 front side pockets (standard trouser set up) one zippered thigh pocket and one zippered rear pocket. Both zippered pockets are positioned so that they don’t interfere with a harness and are perfect for keeping your car keys, bit of cash and topo sheet safe whilst you concentrate on the climbing. The zip fly is smooth and the belt loops allow a bit of fit tweaking should that be necessary. Obviously this won’t work as well under a harness though.

Another note on fit is that Patagonia only do these in a standard 32inch leg length. I’m 5feet 9inches tall and usually buy regular length trousers and these were fine for me. I usually put a couple of turn ups in my trousers when climbing anyway, I prefer to have a good view of my feet and the half mast look helps! As shorts the Rock Guide Zip Offs give an 11inch inseam, this meant they were pretty muck knee length on me.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/rock-dancer-e15b-9.jpg?w=382&h=614) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/rock-dancer-e15b-9.jpg)Patagonia Rock Guide Zip Off in shorts mode rock climbing in Cornwall So why buy zip off pants? Well, zip off pants mean you have trousers and shorts in one. They might not be the coolest thing around but there’s no denying they’re a 100% functional piece of kit. If it’s hot you can walk-in in shorts then go to trousers for climbing in the shade. If it’s a thrashy vegetated approach wear the full trouser for protection (trust me the Rock Guides are tough enough) then zip them off for the climbs and effort. Basically you can dress for most eventualities with one pair of pants. Awesome for the 4 seasons in one day, British climate! Oh and as an aside, Patagonia do think of everything…the leg zips are cleverly colour coded so you don’t put them on the wrong way round!

So to conclude, Patagonia’s Rock Guide Zip Off Pants are a high quality, tough, well designed and functional pair of pants. Great for year round rock climbing, hiking and weight conscious traveling. They are available in two colours, Forge Grey and Retro Khaki, and a range of waist sizes. I can’t fault the performance of these pants, they do everything you could ask for. I suppose the only downside is they’re still not what the kids would call “cool”!!



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Title: Patagonia Rock Guide Zip Off Pants – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on October 06, 2011, 01:00:16 am
Patagonia Rock Guide Zip Off Pants – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/10/05/patagonia-rock-guide-zip-off-trousers-climbing-gear-review/)
5 October 2011, 1:24 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/logo.jpg?w=512&h=102) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/logo.jpg)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/msrockguidepants.jpg?w=300&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/msrockguidepants.jpg)Patagonia Men's Rock Guide Zip-offs in Forge Grey Two for the price of one on rock climbing legwear from Patagonia…. Performance *****

Quality*****

Value for money *****

RRP £80.00

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/verto-3.jpg?w=512&h=288) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/verto-3.jpg)Patagonia Rock Guide Zip Off Trousers, Retro Khaki - full leg mode rock climbing at Malham Patagonia describe their Rock Guide Zip Off Pants (http://www.patagonia.com/eu/enGB/product/mens-rock-guide-zip-off-pants?p=56570-0-961) as being: “Stretch woven, technical zip-off pants that are lightweight, stretchy, and dry fast with 40-UPF.”

Now I’ll be honest, when I see zip-off convertible trousers I usually think,”woah, bit uncool, my Dad would wear them!” But as Patagonia are a brand renowned for quality, no messing technical products, I thought I’d reserve judgment until I’d worn and tested them.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/p1030857.jpg?w=168&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/p1030857.jpg)The sun's coming out!!Patagonia Rock Guide Zip Off trousers, zipping off on a warm seaside day, Carn Kenidjack, Cornwall So what are they like? Well, as far as I can tell the Rock Guide Zip Offs are pretty much the same as the standard Rock Guide Pants (http://www.patagonia.com/eu/enGB/product/mens-rock-guide-pants?p=56635-0-176) except that they zip-off at the knee so you get trousers and shorts in one!! Not quite two for the price of one as the zip offs cost an extra tenner to buy, but not bad either! Perfect for the weight conscious traveler or climber who doesn’t want to carry a pair of shorts and a pair of trousers or for those optimistic days when the sun might just get out!

The trousers feature a tough fabric which is a combination of 96% stretch woven nylon and 4% spandex. This provides excellent freedom of movement and to further aid those wide bridging moves and high steps Patagonia have also included a gusseted crotch and articulated knees. When wearing a harness there is no bunching up around the legs either and the mesh lined waist belt sits comfortably flat and doesn’t interfere with that of a climbing harness.

Considering it’s light weight, the fabric is also proving to be incredibly tough. I have used these on all rock types from nice gneiss to grippy gritstone and granite and so far not even a nick. I’ve also used them for a bit of brambley jungle bashing and a few Alpine trails. The trousers resist wind effectively too but are not 100% windproof. The combination of materials which make up the fabric, coupled with a Durable Water Repellent Finish (DWR) mean they also dry remarkably quickly should you get caught in a shower. This is also handy if you are giving them a freshen up whilst on your travels, they’re not gonna take days to drip dry!

If the sunshine is beating down the Rock Guides also double as sun-screen having been impregnated with Factor 40UPF sun protection. This is perfect for the pale skinned amongst us!

Other features on the trousers are 4 pockets and a single button waist with belt loops and a zip fly. The pocket configuration features 2 front side pockets (standard trouser set up) one zippered thigh pocket and one zippered rear pocket. Both zippered pockets are positioned so that they don’t interfere with a harness and are perfect for keeping your car keys, bit of cash and topo sheet safe whilst you concentrate on the climbing. The zip fly is smooth and the belt loops allow a bit of fit tweaking should that be necessary. Obviously this won’t work as well under a harness though.

Another note on fit is that Patagonia only do these in a standard 32inch leg length. I’m 5feet 9inches tall and usually buy regular length trousers and these were fine for me. I usually put a couple of turn ups in my trousers when climbing anyway, I prefer to have a good view of my feet and the half mast look helps! As shorts the Rock Guide Zip Offs give an 11inch inseam, this meant they were pretty muck knee length on me.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/rock-dancer-e15b-9.jpg?w=382&h=614) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/rock-dancer-e15b-9.jpg)Patagonia Rock Guide Zip Off in shorts mode rock climbing in Cornwall So why buy zip off pants? Well, zip off pants mean you have trousers and shorts in one. They might not be the coolest thing around but there’s no denying they’re a 100% functional piece of kit. If it’s hot you can walk-in in shorts then go to trousers for climbing in the shade. If it’s a thrashy vegetated approach wear the full trouser for protection (trust me the Rock Guides are tough enough) then zip them off for the climbs and effort. Basically you can dress for most eventualities with one pair of pants. Awesome for the 4 seasons in one day, British climate! Oh and as an aside, Patagonia do think of everything…the leg zips are cleverly colour coded so you don’t put them on the wrong way round!

So to conclude, Patagonia’s Rock Guide Zip Off Pants are a high quality, tough, well designed and functional pair of pants. Great for year round rock climbing, hiking and weight conscious traveling. They are available in two colours, Forge Grey and Retro Khaki, and a range of waist sizes. I can’t fault the performance of these pants, they do everything you could ask for. I suppose the only downside is they’re still not what the kids would call “cool”!!



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Title: Patagonia Nano Puff Jacket – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on October 07, 2011, 07:00:16 pm
Patagonia Nano Puff Jacket – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/10/07/patagonia-nano-puff-jacket-climbing-gear-review/)
7 October 2011, 2:19 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/logo.jpg?w=512&h=102) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/logo.jpg)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/84210_gko_1.jpg?w=512&h=512) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/84210_gko_1.jpg)

Nano Puff synthetic insulation from Patagonia, shave off weight and move faster…. Performance *****

Quality ****

Value for money ****

RRP £160.00

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/p1040518.jpg?w=512&h=288) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/p1040518.jpg)Patagonia Nano Puff Jacket used as outer wear on the summit of Mt Blanc in August. The clean lines of the garment work well underneath or over a climbing harness. Patagonia say: “Windproof and water-resistant, the Nano Puff® Jacket is warm, incredibly lightweight, highly compressible and can be worn as insulation or outerwear in cold climates.”

Patagonia’s Nano Puff Jacket (http://www.patagonia.com/eu/enGB/product/mens-nano-puff-jacket?p=84210-0-265) is a lightweight, Primaloft insulated, windproof and water resistant layering piece designed to offer maximum warmth for minimum weight. It features a full length zip and 2 zippered handwarmer pockets as well as an internal zippered valuables pocket into which the jacket can be stashed. It follows on in their Nano range from the super-popular pullover (http://www.patagonia.com/eu/enGB/product/mens-nano-puff-pullover?p=84020-0-472). The range has now expanded to feature a Vest (http://www.patagonia.com/eu/enGB/product/mens-nano-puff-vest?p=84240-0-425) or gilet (I have one and love it!! In fact I may need to have it surgically removed!!), full zip Hoody (http://www.patagonia.com/eu/enGB/product/mens-nano-puff-hoody?p=84220-0-804) and Nano Storm (http://www.patagonia.com/eu/enGB/product/mens-waterproof-nano-storm-jacket?p=84230-0-425) which includes a waterproof hard shell outer.

The first thing I’d say is that the Nano Puff Jacket is it’s incredibly versatile. I’ve used it for wandering around town, as a belay jacket for summer cragging, around campsites on cool summer evenings, worn it rock climbing, on Alpine north faces, skied in it and used it as a lightweight belay jacket in Scotland in winter. That’s a lot of use!! And it works!!

You can wear it as outer wear over a base layer or midlayer and it will keep the wind off and keep you warm.  Or stick it under your hard shell as an insulation piece when the weather is properly foul. When you stop at a belay or for a brew stop it also works well as a simple belay jacket. The outer and inner fabrics glide effortlessly over or under layers so there’s no awkward snagging or bunching when getting it on or off. This is helped by the simple elasticated cuffs and smooth zipper with glove friendly tab.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/dscf0525.jpg?w=512&h=384) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/dscf0525.jpg)Patagonia Nano Puff Jacket perfect for in-a-day Alpine north faces. Here Kev wears his at the bergschrund about to start Le Ginat, Les Droites North Face, France in April 2011 Featuring a simple set up of 60g of Primaloft One polyester insulation held in place by a stitch through quilted construction, the Nano Puff provides ample warmth for minimum weight and pack size. The lightweight (and recycled) polyester ripstop shell stops the wind and the Durable Water Repellent (DWR) finish sheds moisture effectively in all but proper rain. And if the Nano does get wet, it still insulates you from the cold! It isn’t a full warmth super duper belay jacket but it does the job as long as you’re not stationary for too long. If that’s what your after then you might be better off trying Patagonia’s DAS Parka  (http://www.patagonia.com/eu/enGB/product/das-parka?p=84101-0-804)instead, which is a real haven of cosy niceness!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/p1030397.jpg?w=461&h=819) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/p1030397.jpg)Patagonia Nano Puff Jacket worn belay jacket stylee during a brief stop on the North Face of Les Droites, Chamonix The fact that the Nano has a full length zip adds to it’s versatility as it can easily be vented should you start to warm up whilst on the move and as I said earlier it slides on and off over layers with no effort at all. This coupled with the fact that you can stuff it into it’s inner pocket and then use the clip in loop to attach it to your climbing harness means you can always have the Nano Puff Jacket ready on a climb should you need it. Otherwise it’s minimal pack size won’t take up much room in your pack either.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/p1040308.jpg?w=168&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/p1040308.jpg)Patagonia Nano Puff Jacket - perfect for fast moving alpinism. Here Kev finishes off a quick solo lap of the Cosmiques Arete on the Aiguille du Midi. The Nano tackled the cold damp conditions with ease due to it's light weight, great cut, excellent breathability and water resistant outer. Patagonia call the fit of the Nano “standard”. My test one is size Small and this is the size I usually wear in most garments. Whilst it is trim enough to wear over a baselayer for technical rock climbs, it is also accommodating enough to wear over my R1 top and softshell should I decide to use it as a belay jacket. In order to stop any unwanted drafts there is an elasticated hem drawcord which is easily adjusted even when wearing gloves.

Why should I buy this and not a down filled one such as Patagonia’s Down Sweater (http://www.patagonia.com/eu/enGB/product/mens-down-sweater-jacket?p=84673-0-425)?

The main benefit Primaloft (http://www.primaloft.com/outdoor_EG/whatisprimaloft.html) and other synthetic fibres have over down is that they maintain their insulating properties even when wet. If down gets wet it gets soggy and no longer traps air effectively. Synthetic fibres such as Primaloft tend not to absorb water (they are hydrophobic) and therefore do not have this problem. That means synthetic filled jackets are a very good idea for the UK climate!!

So in conclusion, the Nano Puff Jacket is a well made light weight insulating piece ideal for a wide range of outdoor activities from cold days out walking to light and fast alpinism. It looks great in the pub but cuts the mustard in the toughest conditions too. A truly versatile piece of insulation clothing which marries light weight modern materials with minimalist styling. Good work Patagonia!



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Source: Climbing Gear Reviews UK (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Smartwool Microweight Crew and Boxer Briefs – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on October 09, 2011, 01:00:16 pm
Smartwool Microweight Crew and Boxer Briefs – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/10/09/smartwool-microweight-crew-and-boxer-briefs-%E2%80%93-climbing-gear-review/)
9 October 2011, 7:57 am

(http://climbinggearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/Smartwool-300x112.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/05/10/montane-flux-jacket-climbing-gear-review/1262-revision-5/) (http://climbinggearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/Mens-Micro-Crew-1-209x300.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/05/10/montane-flux-jacket-climbing-gear-review/1262-revision-6/)

With the feel of cotton and the performance of polyester, Smartwool have come up with a great summer combination of baselayers. During the brilliant winter of 2010 we reviewed several excellent Merino tops from Smartwool: http://wp.me/p14X6I-dM . We rated them a Top Rated Product accolade as they were truly brilliant to wear, so how have the thinner and summer weight tops fared…?

(http://climbinggearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/Smartwool-Midweight-Crew.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/05/07/boreal-krypto-rock-shoe-climbing-gear-review/1201-revision-5/)    I was sent a Microweight Crew (http://www.smartwool.com/mens/baselayer/mens-microweight-crew-1.html), long sleeved baselayer and the Boxer Briefs to test throughout the summer to see if they performed as well as the winter models.

I can say I was not disappointed, the top proved a great piece of clothing that I found myself wearing it all summer in all but the hottest days (which were very few). Firstly I could believe how quickly the top dried out, the slightest breeze had the sweat drying out in minutes and one of the real benefits of using Merino is no smell! I wore it for three days on the trot, including sleeping, on a short backpacking trip, absolutely no smell whatsoever.

(http://climbinggearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/before-and-after-2.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/05/07/boreal-krypto-rock-shoe-climbing-gear-review/1201-autosave/)    The top and pants are made from the lightest of the Smartwool NTS (http://www.smartwool.com/#proof/next-to-skin) (next to skin) fabrics and felt lovely next to my skin. I often come out in a rash when wearing some technical fabrics but wearing Smartwool felt as comfortable as wearing cotton. The top did get very saturated in hot, physical conditions but the top was plenty light enough to carry another in my pack. I like to put a fresh, dry top on under the climb or later in the day. The material is also a little delicate so you wouldn’t want to be thrutching up a chimney unless you have it protected by wearing a t-shirt or jacket on top.

(http://climbinggearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/Smartwool-climbing.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/05/07/boreal-krypto-rock-shoe-climbing-gear-review/1201-revision-6/)

I am usually a medium is size, but often find I need a size large in t-shirts and baselayers. Smartwool (http://www.smartwool.com/mens/baselayer/mens-microweight-crew-1.html), however, are slightly oversized so a Medium fitted fine. It was a nice fit, just athletic enough without feeling tight. The flatlock seams prevented chaffing when wearing a pack and the sleeves were just the right length.

(http://climbinggearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/Mens-Micro-Boxer-p-229x300.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/05/10/montane-flux-jacket-climbing-gear-review/1262-revision-9/)

I have substituted myself for a model wearing the Boxer Briefs (http://www.smartwool.com/mens/underwear/mens-microweight-boxer.html) as it would not have been a pretty site. They have performed just as well as the top, great next to the skin. For hygiene reasons I didn’t dare wear these for as long as the top so I had two pairs on the trip. The fly was easy to use and the waistband was flat and comfortable under a rock climbing harness. They were too hot to wear on very hot days for me, I have been trying to find a true pair of briefs made from Merino wool for a while now and it’s good to see that Smartwool have included a true Brief in the 2011 range. I’ll be buying a couple of pairs of those. They also have some windproof ones in the range which would also come in handy those cold windy days winter climbing, so there is a great range of pants in the range to suite a variety of weather conditions.

A far as cleaning went, I just chucked them in the washing machine with all the other washing we do from day to day. I have experienced no problems with the quality at all, no holes or threads coming undone.

So, I can’t say just how much I rate these Merino products. I have been and remain a fan of all Merino baselayer products and find the quality and feel of Smartwool awesome. If you don’t already own some become a convert yourself, you won’t be disappointed.

For UK Stockists see: http://www.smartwool.com/international  RRP £45.00

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Title: Smartwool HiFy – Merino Wool and more…
Post by: comPiler on October 13, 2011, 01:00:23 am
Smartwool HiFy – Merino Wool and more… (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/10/12/smartwool-hify-merino-wool-and-more/)
12 October 2011, 7:49 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/smartwool-logo-color.jpg?w=243&h=194) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/smartwool-logo-color.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/wmns-tml-mid-full-zip-hoodys.jpg?w=147&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/wmns-tml-mid-full-zip-hoodys.jpg)

SMARTWOOL LAUNCHES REVOLUTIONARY BI-COMPONENT FABRIC THAT IS MERINO WOOL AND MORE    

Nearly two decades ago, SmartWool changed the industry with the launch of its extraordinarily comfortable Merino wool socks.  And now the company is doing it again with technical clothing.

Introducing SmartWool HyFi, a bi-component fabric that puts the extraordinary comfort of Merino wool next to the skin and a smart nylon facing next to rocks, trees and bushes. Inside it works naturally with the body managing moisture, fighting odors, and aiding breathability. Outside it’s more durable and ready to perform.

The season ahead sees the launch of SmartWool HyFi, the new high performance bi component fabric which contains a Merino wool inner and Nylon outer to provide greater performance, fit and comfort which goes far beyond the natural benefits of Merino wool.  SmartWool HyFi contains a performance combination of 64% Merino wool and 36% Nylon.

 

Having a Nylon face, SmartWool HyFi offers greater wind and abrasion resistance, faster dry time, improved stretch and the contemporary aesthetic fit that is desired by today’s outdoor athletes.   The Merino wool inner offers the unbeatable benefits of SmartWool Next To Skin breathability, moisture management, temperature regulation and odor control.   Designs which feature SmartWool HyFi also offer athletes improved shape retention and stretch and increased warmth without any restrictive bulk.

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Title: GEAR NEWS: The Kendal Mountain Festival 2011
Post by: comPiler on October 13, 2011, 01:00:12 pm
GEAR NEWS: The Kendal Mountain Festival 2011 (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/10/13/gear-news-the-kendal-mountain-festival-2011/)
13 October 2011, 11:33 am

The 17th-20th November sees the arrival of the 2011 Kendal Mountain Festival! The 2011 Festival is set to be one of the best yet with an exciting array of lectures, films and partying! And CGR will be there! (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/kmf-no-date-logo2.jpg?w=196&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/kmf-no-date-logo2.jpg)

Here’s the first in a series of updates from the festival organisers… Tickets for Kendal on sale, with the majority of the programme in place. “We’re 90% there, with a couple of late slots being tied down”, says Festival director Clive Allen. “The problem is, we do it to ourselves. Every year we say let’s take it easy and simplify the event. But then the programme just builds up, we get great offers from sponsors and filmmakers and suddenly it’s almost impossible to shoe-horn it all in.”

The end result though is yet another spectacular programme filled with a unique combination of films, speakers and special guests that you’ll never get the chance to see in one location again. In addition to the speakers already announced – Lynn Hill, Jim Wickwire, Dave MacLeod, Simone Moro, James Pearson, the Favresse brothers and Nazir Sabir to name but a few – there’s a significant number of new names.

A big new story that’s just been confirmed is that Ed Drummond will be at Kendal. As the climber who made the first ascent of The Longhope Route on Hoy in 1970 with Oliver Hill, he’ll be at the world film premiere of The Long Hope, the story of Dave MacLeod and Andy Turner’s inspirational first free ascent this summer. In addition Ed will do a stand-alone lecture about his life and epic climbs. Now living in the USA, this will be a unique opportunity to see this legendary character and climber.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/ed-long-hope-1a.jpg?w=546&h=717) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/ed-long-hope-1a.jpg)Ed Drummond will be at KMF 2011 (copyright: KMF) In July Richard Parks made history by becoming the first person to climb the highest summit on each of the world’s continents and stand on all three poles – South Pole, North Pole and Everest summit – in the same year. An incredible feat, achieved within seven record-setting months. Richard will describe a journey encompassing South American rainforests, -40C in the Arctic and the hypoxia of Everest.

Prolific Everest-summiteer Kenton Cool appears not once, but twice over the Festival. On Thursday night he describes to Stephen Venables just how he managed to reach the top of Everest a record-breaking nine times. Then on Saturday Kenton talks about skiing two Himalayan giants – Manaslu and Cho Oyu. British alpinists Matt Helliker and Jon Bracey describe the commitment required to forge a new route up the stupendous Moonflower Buttress on Alaska’s Mt Hunter, plus big-wall specialist Jerry Gore talks about first ascents from Baffin to Borneo and how being diagnosed in 2001 as a diabetic hasn’t slowed him down in the slightest.

It isn’t all about mountaineering of course. BBC producer and director Dale Templar describes filming the Human Planet series, photographer John Beatty shares his superb images and stories from 25 years of worldwide assignments, plus Cameron McNeish and Richard Else talk and show exclusive footage from BBC Scotland’s new series profiling a new long-distance trail from the Scottish border to Cape Wrath.

Together with over 70 films in competition, art, literature, the legendary Rab Party, the ‘specialist’ nights plus the Boardman Tasker literary prize, it promises to be another unmissable year!



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Title: Slackline across The Dolomites – adidas climbers realise The Big Idea…
Post by: comPiler on October 20, 2011, 01:00:21 pm
Slackline across The Dolomites – adidas climbers realise The Big Idea… (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/10/20/slackline-across-the-dolomites-adidas-climbers-realise-the-big-idea/)
20 October 2011, 10:18 am

Watch these dudes do incredible stuff in The Dollies!

 

(http://img.youtube.com/vi/44iV2opE6XI/2.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/10/20/slackline-across-the-dolomites-adidas-climbers-realise-the-big-idea/)  

 

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Title: Adidas Terrex Pro Hybrid Jacket – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on October 21, 2011, 01:00:27 am
Adidas Terrex Pro Hybrid Jacket – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/10/20/adidas-terrex-pro-hybrid-jacket-climbing-gear-review/)
20 October 2011, 7:10 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/adidas20logo.gif?w=307&h=226) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/adidas20logo.gif) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/adidas-terrex-hybrid-jacket.png?w=217&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/adidas-terrex-hybrid-jacket.png)Adidas Terrex Hybrid Jacket adidas Terrex Pro – softshell performance from an über label. Performance ****

Style ***

Value for money ****

RRP £140.00

I’m sure I’m not alone in this scenario, I’m in the first bin up the Midi,  standing next to me are a couple of Euro Gods. Tall, thin, bronzed and blonde mini beards; impossibly tiny packs, those white Adidas shades and kitted out in Adidas clothing.  Not t-shirts and running shorts but specific clothing designed for the outdoors. I know it’d be difficult to be as cool when you’re wandering around in the drizzle on top of The Ben, but I’d like to be given the chance to look as cool!

Adidas will need no introduction. They are a massive multi national company who kit out many of the worlds sporting superstars. What they not so famous for in the UK is their large outdoor clothing and footwear range. This is not so on the mainland where many of the top Euro stars are also sponsored by Adidas.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/adidas-bouldering.jpg?w=576&h=324) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/adidas-bouldering.jpg)Adidas Terrex Hybrid - trying to look as cool as a Eurogod! My first glimpse of Adidas and climbing came with that poster of John Dunne on The Big Issue in Pembroke. Wearing that white Adidas long sleeve top and looking über cool on what was one of the hardest routes in the UK at the time. That was enough for me to be out buying one and climbing in it all that summer, I’ve still got it.

Adidas have a large range of outdoor clothing which can be viewed here and I’m pretty sure you’ll be surprised at the range of gear on offer. What will, no doubt, frustrate you is that it’s very difficult to find over here in the UK. Well, good news! Adidas have decided that the UK deserve the outdoor clothing and that we are as cool as mainland Euro Gods. So watch out for it in the shops.

We were sent the 2011 Terrex Hybrid Jacket to test. 2011 seems to be the year of Hybrid jackets, we’ve seen and tested several. The buzzwords are Hybrid and Bodymapping, the idea is designers map the body and highlight areas where heat is lost and needs retaining. Jackets can then be made using different materials in different areas depending upon whether you need breathability or protection.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/adidas-scramble.jpg?w=576&h=432) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/adidas-scramble.jpg)Adidas Terrex Hybrid - great for those cooler mountain days. The main materials the Terrex Hybrid jacket is made from are Gore Windstopper  Softshell and a stretchy fabric similar to Powerstretch. Windstopper Softshell is Gore’s new softshell material; a membrane fabric that has a smooth woven outer, a breathable membrane and a bonded fleece. The jacket is designed for active mountain use in both cut and materials.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/adidas-climbing.jpg?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/adidas-climbing.jpg)Adidas terrex Hybrid - a great cut for climbing. The jacket is constructed so that the front of the torso is protected with the Windstopper, the forearms and back are constructed in the Powerstretch material. The cut was very athletic and worked well in all climbing situations. Adidas have defined the cut as Formotion, meaning that the seams have been located to ensure maximum freedom of movement and comfort. I certainly found the jacket comfortable to wear and didn’t find it restrictive at all. A well designed shoulder area meant carrying a pack was a breeze.

The hem had a drawstring closure and the lower end of the jacket fitted very well under a harness. There was no rise when climbing with a harness on, the jacket stayed put and didn’t move; always a good sign. I found the arms a little too long for my 5’9” average frame. I was given a medium which fitted my 38-40” chest really well, but the arms must be constructed for people with a positive ape index. With no sleeve tabs I ended up having to fold the sleeve hem up.

There were also pit zips on each side, which I thought was a little over the top. Windstopper is a membraned fabric so heat loss can be an issue when active. I would have thought that a hybrid jacket would have had a change of fabric at the pits. The pit zips did work well though and ventilated the jacket when needed.

The zips were all YKK and worked smoothly with no sticking areas. The zip tags were too small for an outdoor active jacket. I would have liked to see more burly tags that could be operated with gloves on, especially the main torso and napoleon pocket zips. I though the zips were designed to keep the jacket athletic and streamlined looking rather than for function.

The collar was well designed with movement in mind, the back of it having an area of powerstretch. This worked great with a climbing helmet on, the collar felt very comfortable when closed up and didn’t restrict movement at all. The pockets were all accessible with a harness on, but again the zips made the handwarmer pockets difficult to access at times.

The overall style was very nice, plenty of Adidas branding including the 3 stripes on the arms. These were printed on and I thought these would wear off if you were carrying a heavy climbing pack regularly. I would have also liked to see some Scotchbrite reflective decals for winter activity.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/adidas-bowderstone.jpg?w=576&h=432) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/adidas-bowderstone.jpg)Adidas Terrex Hybrid, a good all round mountain jacket. In conclusion, a well designed jacket that was probably a little too warm for mid summer but really came into it’s own during the spring, autumn and active winter days. A good cut, if a little long in the arm and very comfortable to wear. The hybrid nature meant that I was able to be reasonably comfortable when active and the Formotion styling gave the jacket good performance when climbing. Most of all you are getting great materials, design and branding from a label that is sure to become big in the UK.

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Title: Gear News – Arcteryx Climbing Harnesses
Post by: comPiler on October 22, 2011, 01:00:34 am
Gear News – Arcteryx Climbing Harnesses (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/10/21/gear-news-arcteryx-climbing-harnesses/)
21 October 2011, 7:00 pm

Every wondered how those brilliant by Arcteryx are made? Listen to the designer…  Do you have an Arcteryx harness? We’d love to read your views, why not leave a comment.

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Title: Blog – watch the Ice Master, Beat Kammerlander climb trad!
Post by: comPiler on October 30, 2011, 12:00:28 pm
Blog – watch the Ice Master, Beat Kammerlander climb trad! (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/10/30/blog-watch-the-ice-master-beat-kammerlander-climb-trad/)
30 October 2011, 6:24 am

Beat Kammerlander well lnown for his Ice Climbing skills climbs his trad project in Austria. I’ve always been been most inspired by the climbers who quietly go about thier climbing business. They’re often off many climbers radars, regular guys with regular jobs, kids, etc but consistently climb at a level I can only dream of emulating. Watch Austrian legend Beat Kammerlander climb this awesome looking trad route; even though it’s trad watch out for the belay technique! OK,OK, I know it’s not true UK style ground up on sight but it’s still great to watch and I wish that crag was outside my house! I’m 50 next year so it’s great to know that all is not lost and that if I keep my psyche and train as hard as I can then I’ll still be able to climb at a level that truly keeps me happy. Happy climbing, Dave.

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Title: Lakeland Fellranger by Cicerone Press –Mountain Review
Post by: comPiler on November 10, 2011, 12:00:32 am
Lakeland Fellranger by Cicerone Press –Mountain Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/11/09/lakeland-fellranger-by-cicerone-press-%E2%80%93mountain-review/)
9 November 2011, 6:24 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/cicerone.jpg?w=300&h=176) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/cicerone.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/lakeland-fellranger.jpg?w=198&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/lakeland-fellranger.jpg) Can the newer, modern Lakeland Fellranger Guides knock the mighty Wainwright off his perch? I started getting the Wainwright guides as Christmas presents from my 2 sons. I have about 3 now, all the second edition, revamped ones by Chris Jetty. I find them useful armchair reading, but they’re not something I would take on the hill with me. They are, however, the reference guide for all serious Lakeland hill walkers.

Then out comes Mark Richards with his Lakeland Fellranger series of books, an ambitious project to map the lakes with all the routes to every summit. The project began in 2008 and is still in progress. There are six guides to date with two more to come. We were sent to two latest guides to review: The Western and North Western Fells.

The first difference you will notice is the size, the Fellranger format is just about A5 and they pack in the information, so I wasn’t about to pack this in my rucksack. The guide is in full colour and absolutely jam packed full of colour maps, photographs, routes plans and panoramas. The mapping is provided by Harvey, its 1:40 000 scale fits nicely with the BMC Mountain Map series and all photographs and diagrams are provided by Mark. The cover was tough PVC so should last some time.

The mountains were listed alphabetically, which I found very easy to use and find; a quick flick got me to the mountain I wanted to read up on. Once there I found some introductory information about the mountain itself and some lovely anecdotal prose. On top of that there was a colour photo and a map showing all the routes to follow. Routes are coloured red (to compliment Harvey) and starting points in blue. All the routes are then described in great detail and gave up to date information on path condition, cairn locations and safe descents.

Routes were enhanced with both pictorial and photographic diagrams. Other interesting features were photographed and added interest to the walk. Once at the top of you chosen route a full panorama was given from all compass points. Very useful if like me you’re useless at knowing where everything is. The guide did state that downloadable panoramas in pdf format were available from Marks website and I eventually found them in the Lakeland Fellranger section. They are a good resource and save you having to carry the guide with you.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/lakeland-fellranger1.jpg?w=300&h=224) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/lakeland-fellranger1.jpg)The photography is clear and a great aid to planning your route. Are these new guides better than the Wainwrights…? Yes! I would definitely recommend these guides to someone new to The Lakes; they are much more modern, useful in their layout and will provide plenty of information to offer you a thorough exploration of every corner. I can see me collecting these and buying them for others as gifts.

I would have liked to have seen more use of GPS technology in the guide; A GPS is fast becoming an everyday item in the hill walkers pack. Detailed grid references of summits and confusing areas would be useful for both planning using digital mapping and mountain safety. I would also have liked to seen a tick list at the back with space for date of ascent and notes.

Will they knock the Wainwrights off their perch? I don’t know, they’re too engrained in the British psyche for that but The Lakeland Fellranger guides are definitely more modern and more useful as a guide. If it was a toss-up between to the two for me I’d go for the Lakeland Fellranger guides.

Author: Mark Richards.

RRP £12.95 – £14.95

Stockists: www.cicerone.co.uk (http://www.cicerone.co.uk/index.cfm)

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Title: Tanaya Ra rock climbing shoe – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on November 30, 2011, 06:00:27 pm
Tanaya Ra rock climbing shoe – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/11/30/tanaya-ra-rock-climbing-shoe-climbing-gear-review/)
30 November 2011, 3:12 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/tenaya-logo-redblog-size.jpg?w=300&h=93) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/tenaya-logo-redblog-size.jpg)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/tenaya-ra.png?w=300&h=198) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/tenaya-ra.png)

CGR review the good value performance velcro rock climbing shoe from Tenaya. Earlier in the year we reviewed the Tenaya Masia rock climbing shoe and the conclusion then was they were a great all round climbing shoe, that were comfortable, performed well and were a great price. Not a bad combination in todays economic climate.

I was sent a pair of the Tenaya Ra climbing shoes to review over the autumn season. The Ra is a velcro performance shoe and since Tenaya have signed up Ron Kauk to the design team the whole range has had a complete overhaul, for the better. Tenaya have been around for a while and were known for their cheaper, bottom end products. The new range of 6 models has been redesigned to take on all the big players in both performance and materials. The Tenaya Ra is the top of the model range, a high performance shoe.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/tenaya-ra1.png?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/tenaya-ra1.png)Tanaya Ra - great on anything steep. The construction is similar to the Masai in that the main shoe material is microfiber with a TXT coated cotton lining. When I saw the microfibre material, red lights started blinking and klaxtons started sounding very loudly. For years I was a major fan of 5.10 Anastasi velcros – but the stench was truly horrifying. I could never keep them in the house and could barely tolerate them in the car. The Tenaya Ra shoe doesn’t smell yet, but I haven’t been using them in warm weather so I am still unsure as to what will happen. I’ll have to keep you updated through the comments section on this one, so keep an eye out. The good news is; if you’re a vegetarian, you can climb conscious free. My normal climbing shoe size in a 7½ but I got into a 6½ and found them surprisingly comfortable. They took about a month or so to become comfortable enough to wear for periods of time.

The toe and arch profile is aggressive and the performance very good, I found the toe profile performed in all climbing situations tested from Grit bouldering through to Lakes trad with some Limestone sport thrown in for good measure. The midsole is stiff which is just how I like it for Limestone sport and I really enjoyed using them in places like Horseshoe Quarry where footwork is essential. They weren’t as comfortable on slabby Grit routes as the toe profile was too aggressive and a softer shoe is preferable.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/tenaya-ra-heelhooking.png?w=512&h=384) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/tenaya-ra-heelhooking.png)Tenaya Ra - good for hooking The toe area was reinforced with extra rubber, there was plenty of rubber over the toe area  and with the extra reinforcement this meant there was plenty of area for toe hooking and ‘scumming’ on marginal hooks. The rand continued around into the heel area. Talking of the heel area, I thought the arrangement was a little messy. I’ve been reviewing climbing shoes for some time now and have discovered that the heel area poses quite a technical challenge for manufacturers. The Tenaya Ra’s heel area felt a little bitty, several area were coming together in the same place and I thought these could be an area where the rand elements could start coming undone as the main rand, the heel tension and the heel came together in the same spot. The heel was also a two part construction and I thought the heel would begin to come apart after excessive heelhooking. That said, these are all my anxieties because it hasn’t done so yet and is showing no signs of doing so either.

UK RRP £90.00

Stockists www.tenaya.net

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Title: Tenaya Ra rock climbing shoe – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on December 01, 2011, 06:00:21 pm
Tenaya Ra rock climbing shoe – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/11/30/tanaya-ra-rock-climbing-shoe-climbing-gear-review/)
30 November 2011, 3:12 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/tenaya-logo-redblog-size.jpg?w=300&h=93) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/tenaya-logo-redblog-size.jpg)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/tenaya-ra.png?w=300&h=198) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/tenaya-ra.png)

CGR review the good value performance velcro rock climbing shoe from Tenaya. Earlier in the year we reviewed the Tenaya Masia rock climbing shoe and the conclusion then was they were a great all round climbing shoe, that were comfortable, performed well and were a great price. Not a bad combination in todays economic climate.

I was sent a pair of the Tenaya Ra climbing shoes to review over the autumn season. The Ra is a velcro performance shoe and since Tenaya have signed up Ron Kauk to the design team the whole range has had a complete overhaul, for the better. Tenaya have been around for a while and were known for their cheaper, bottom end products. The new range of 6 models has been redesigned to take on all the big players in both performance and materials. The Tenaya Ra is the top of the model range, a high performance shoe.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/tenaya-ra1.png?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/tenaya-ra1.png)Tanaya Ra - great on anything steep. The construction is similar to the Masai in that the main shoe material is microfiber with a TXT coated cotton lining. When I saw the microfibre material, red lights started blinking and klaxtons started sounding very loudly. For years I was a major fan of 5.10 Anastasi velcros – but the stench was truly horrifying. I could never keep them in the house and could barely tolerate them in the car. The Tenaya Ra shoe doesn’t smell yet, but I haven’t been using them in warm weather so I am still unsure as to what will happen. I’ll have to keep you updated through the comments section on this one, so keep an eye out. The good news is; if you’re a vegetarian, you can climb conscious free. My normal climbing shoe size in a 7½ but I got into a 6½ and found them surprisingly comfortable. They took about a month or so to become comfortable enough to wear for periods of time.

The toe and arch profile is aggressive and the performance very good, I found the toe profile performed in all climbing situations tested from Grit bouldering through to Lakes trad with some Limestone sport thrown in for good measure. The midsole is stiff which is just how I like it for Limestone sport and I really enjoyed using them in places like Horseshoe Quarry where footwork is essential. They weren’t as comfortable on slabby Grit routes as the toe profile was too aggressive and a softer shoe is preferable.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/tenaya-ra-heelhooking.png?w=512&h=384) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/tenaya-ra-heelhooking.png)Tenaya Ra - good for hooking The toe area was reinforced with extra rubber, there was plenty of rubber over the toe area  and with the extra reinforcement this meant there was plenty of area for toe hooking and ‘scumming’ on marginal hooks. The rand continued around into the heel area. Talking of the heel area, I thought the arrangement was a little messy. I’ve been reviewing climbing shoes for some time now and have discovered that the heel area poses quite a technical challenge for manufacturers. The Tenaya Ra’s heel area felt a little bitty, several area were coming together in the same place and I thought these could be an area where the rand elements could start coming undone as the main rand, the heel tension and the heel came together in the same spot. The heel was also a two part construction and I thought the heel would begin to come apart after excessive heelhooking. That said, these are all my anxieties because it hasn’t done so yet and is showing no signs of doing so either.

UK RRP £90.00

Stockists www.tenaya.net

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Title: Smartwool HiFy Hoody – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on December 14, 2011, 06:00:30 pm
Smartwool HiFy Hoody – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/12/07/smartwool-hify-hoody-climbing-gear-review/)
7 December 2011, 7:30 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/smartwool-logo-color.jpg?w=300&h=240) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/smartwool-logo-color.jpg)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/wmns-tml-mid-full-zip-hoodys.jpg?w=147&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/wmns-tml-mid-full-zip-hoodys.jpg)

Can Katie stay warm enough to crush her problems in The Frankenjura? Performance *****

Quality *****

Value for money ****

Earlier in the year we received some gear news from Smartwool about a new range of Merino products called HiFy, this hybrid fabric promises to be more hardwearing but retain all the excellent warmth and odour eliminating properties of pure merino, we gave Katie a womens hoody to test on her problem crushing visit to The Frankenjura in Germany… I had been given the SmartWool HiFy TML  (http://www.smartwool.com/womens/midlayer/womens-tml-mid-full-zip-hoody.html)(thermal mid layer) mid full-zip hoody to test a week before my trip to the Frankenjura, and for this I was very grateful.

As much as I know cold weather equals good friction, my body knows cold weather means limbs like frozen logs.  So I was very happy to pack this in with the rest of my warm clothing.

SmartWool (http://www.smartwool.com/) are a clothing company based in Colorado; dedicated to creating clothing kindly, sustainably and with a low carbon foot print to boot. They are in partnership with

the New Zealand Merino Company, who have developed Zque, the world’s first Merino wool accreditation program.

This program ensures environmental, social and economic sustainability, safeguards animal welfare, and allows them to trace end products to their source.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/km-smartwool-3.png?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/km-smartwool-3.png)Smatwool HiFy - toasty on those subzero days. Packed, ready to go and get shut down by some super hard problems, I made the 20ish hour trek by car and ferry and car again to the Frankenjura; the totally freezing Frankenjura I might add. Perfect testing conditions.

At least if I couldn’t make it up anything, I could still sit cozily in my Smartwool HiFy (http://www.smartwool.com/womens/midlayer/womens-tml-mid-full-zip-hoody.html) top. They do say their clothing works best when layered with another of their products, but then not everyone can afford to have three layers of merino wool loveliness. So I worked with what I had, and what I had worked well.

The hoody is a mid layer with a central front zip, which they say is made slightly off centre at the chin so it doesn’t chaff, I didn’t notice that too much, but I guess you don’t notice something when it isn’t annoying you.

It has engineered thumb holes, secure hand and chest pockets, and articulated elbows.  It’s made with 64% super fine merino wool and 36% nylon, this is to make the material a little more hardwearing that pure merino.  They say that they make the hoody a little longer to allow for potential (or in my case definite) shrinkage.  It got a little smaller when I washed it, but not by a large amount, it didn’t do the usual thing my clothes do, and turn into a hoody for 8/10yr olds (a good start).  So a wool garment that can be washed without worry.

The hoody I was given was a size small; I’m normally a size 6 up top and this hoody was about one size too  big for me. I looked on the website and a small is about an 8-10, so their sizing is pretty spot on.

They don’t make an XS in this product and I think I was probably pretty lucky to get a small to test! The sizes in this product range from S to XL. Bear in mind, different products do have a larger range of sizes.

There’s a chance it may have felt different if I had worn it as a single mid layer, but because of the sizing I put another hoody on underneath. It did get to -2oC some days so two mid layers wasn’t such a crazy idea.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/km-smartwool-2.png?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/km-smartwool-2.png)Smartwool HiFy - great for climbing in. I like a top with thumb holes, some people may never use them, but for me they’re great, it stopped the cold getting in when i had my gloves on over the top, and when I wasn’t wearing gloves, they made a nice little mid point to bare hands.  The hood is quite fitted, designed to fit under a helmet for skiing, cold weather routes, etc.  I used mine on the coldest days under my bobble hat and it sat rather nicely with no excess bulk.

Now not the most pleasant of topics, but I find when I wear a lot of layers when out climbing, they get a bit sweaty and don’t exactly smell great.  The Hoody excelled in this; if I could rave about anything, it’s that I could climb all day in it, or do a 20 hr car ride and it didn’t smell! The layers underneath did, but the hoody stayed odour free.  I wore it for two weeks and only washed it when I got home because, well it’s what you do, plus I just emptied my bag into the washer and washed everything together, including the hoody. No problems at all with a mixed 40oC wash, I haven’t tried it at lower temperatures yet but I think it would wash OK.

So the Smart Wool fibres in the hoody are meant to keep a more regulated body temperature, this stops the smelliness, keeping you cool when it’s hot, and warm when it’s cold.

I think this may be the part where it would work best as a secondary layer to a SmartWool base layer.  As I was wearing it with a thermal, a t-shirt and a hoody it was pretty tough to tell if the technology was working in the way it is designed to do, but from a very basic level of the way I was wearing it, it kept me warm, it was light weight (a plus) and it was comfortable to wear when climbing.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/km-smartwool-1.png?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/km-smartwool-1.png)Smartwool HiFy - stylish and functional From a style and fashion aspect, I really liked the shape and design of the hoody; even though it was a little big, it didn’t really look too big for me, it just looked like a different style to what it would if it were smaller.  It comes in a range of colours, claret, grape or black: all with contrasting zip colours.

I had a look on the SmartWool (http://www.smartwool.com/) website to do a bit of ‘research’, yes research, the things I have to do!  It has some fantastic things on it, one of which was a hoody with an interesting design, I mention it because I think it’s one of the only things that could make the hoody better.  It had a ponytail hole in the back of the hood; Useful, very useful. I also found out how easy it was to get hold of SmartWool products in the UK.  Because it’s all good me telling you about a product, but if you can’t get it easily its a bit of a moot review.  You can’t buy anything on the site (thankfully for my bank balance) but it is stocked in several major retail stores as well as many smaller ones.  If you don’t have one near you, they do answer your emails pretty quickly and you can always order online.

If you were to buy the HiFy TML hoody (http://www.smartwool.com/womens/midlayer/womens-tml-mid-full-zip-hoody.html) you wouldn’t be disappointed, it looks and does what it says it does and feels really comfortable, no itchiness here.  The price is definitely at the top of the scale at around £150,but it is merino wool and they do seem like a company that take pride in their products. The massive plus for me is knowing that if I buy this product or any of their range, I know it’s history and that they’re doing their darnedest to make it as eco friendly as possible. Thumbs up guys: through the handy thumb hole!

UK RRP £130.00

Stockists:www.smartwool.com (http://www.smartwool.com/international)

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Title: Smartwool HyFi Hoody – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on December 15, 2011, 12:00:19 am
Smartwool HyFi Hoody – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/12/07/smartwool-hify-hoody-climbing-gear-review/)
7 December 2011, 7:30 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/smartwool-logo-color.jpg?w=300&h=240) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/01/smartwool-logo-color.jpg)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/wmns-tml-mid-full-zip-hoodys.jpg?w=147&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/wmns-tml-mid-full-zip-hoodys.jpg)

Can Katie stay warm enough to crush her problems in The Frankenjura? Performance *****

Quality *****

Value for money ****

Earlier in the year we received some gear news from Smartwool about a new range of Merino products called HyFi, this hybrid fabric promises to be more hardwearing but retain all the excellent warmth and odour eliminating properties of pure merino, we gave Katie a womens hoody to test on her problem crushing visit to The Frankenjura in Germany… I had been given the SmartWool HyFi TML  (http://www.smartwool.com/womens/midlayer/womens-tml-mid-full-zip-hoody.html)(thermal mid layer) mid full-zip hoody to test a week before my trip to the Frankenjura, and for this I was very grateful.

As much as I know cold weather equals good friction, my body knows cold weather means limbs like frozen logs.  So I was very happy to pack this in with the rest of my warm clothing.

SmartWool (http://www.smartwool.com/) are a clothing company based in Colorado; dedicated to creating clothing kindly, sustainably and with a low carbon foot print to boot. They are in partnership with the New Zealand Merino Company, who have developed Zque, the world’s first Merino wool accreditation program.

This program ensures environmental, social and economic sustainability, safeguards animal welfare, and allows them to trace end products to their source.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/km-smartwool-3.png?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/km-smartwool-3.png)Smatwool HiFy - toasty on those subzero days. Packed, ready to go and get shut down by some super hard problems, I made the 20ish hour trek by car and ferry and car again to the Frankenjura; the totally freezing Frankenjura I might add. Perfect testing conditions.

At least if I couldn’t make it up anything, I could still sit cozily in my Smartwool HyFi (http://www.smartwool.com/womens/midlayer/womens-tml-mid-full-zip-hoody.html) top. They do say their clothing works best when layered with another of their products, but then not everyone can afford to have three layers of merino wool loveliness. So I worked with what I had, and what I had worked well.

The hoody is a mid layer with a central front zip, which they say is made slightly off centre at the chin so it doesn’t chaff, I didn’t notice that too much, but I guess you don’t notice something when it isn’t annoying you.

It has engineered thumb holes, secure hand and chest pockets, and articulated elbows.  It’s made with 64% super fine merino wool and 36% nylon, this is to make the material a little more hardwearing that pure merino.  They say that they make the hoody a little longer to allow for potential (or in my case definite) shrinkage.  It got a little smaller when I washed it, but not by a large amount, it didn’t do the usual thing my clothes do, and turn into a hoody for 8/10yr olds (a good start).  So a wool garment that can be washed without worry.

The hoody I was given was a size small; I’m normally a size 6 up top and this hoody was about one size too  big for me. I looked on the website and a small is about an 8-10, so their sizing is pretty spot on.

They don’t make an XS in this product and I think I was probably pretty lucky to get a small to test! The sizes in this product range from S to XL. Bear in mind, different products do have a larger range of sizes.

There’s a chance it may have felt different if I had worn it as a single mid layer, but because of the sizing I put another hoody on underneath. It did get to -2oC some days so two mid layers wasn’t such a crazy idea.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/km-smartwool-2.png?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/km-smartwool-2.png)Smartwool HyFi - great for climbing in. I like a top with thumb holes, some people may never use them, but for me they’re great, it stopped the cold getting in when i had my gloves on over the top, and when I wasn’t wearing gloves, they made a nice little mid point to bare hands.  The hood is quite fitted, designed to fit under a helmet for skiing, cold weather routes, etc.  I used mine on the coldest days under my bobble hat and it sat rather nicely with no excess bulk.

Now not the most pleasant of topics, but I find when I wear a lot of layers when out climbing, they get a bit sweaty and don’t exactly smell great.  The Hoody excelled in this; if I could rave about anything, it’s that I could climb all day in it, or do a 20 hr car ride and it didn’t smell! The layers underneath did, but the hoody stayed odour free.  I wore it for two weeks and only washed it when I got home because, well it’s what you do, plus I just emptied my bag into the washer and washed everything together, including the hoody. No problems at all with a mixed 40oC wash, I haven’t tried it at lower temperatures yet but I think it would wash OK.

So the Smart Wool fibres in the hoody are meant to keep a more regulated body temperature, this stops the smelliness, keeping you cool when it’s hot, and warm when it’s cold.

I think this may be the part where it would work best as a secondary layer to a SmartWool base layer.  As I was wearing it with a thermal, a t-shirt and a hoody it was pretty tough to tell if the technology was working in the way it is designed to do, but from a very basic level of the way I was wearing it, it kept me warm, it was light weight (a plus) and it was comfortable to wear when climbing.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/km-smartwool-1.png?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/km-smartwool-1.png)Smartwool HiFy - stylish and functional From a style and fashion aspect, I really liked the shape and design of the hoody; even though it was a little big, it didn’t really look too big for me, it just looked like a different style to what it would if it were smaller.  It comes in a range of colours, claret, grape or black: all with contrasting zip colours.

I had a look on the SmartWool (http://www.smartwool.com/) website to do a bit of ‘research’, yes research, the things I have to do!  It has some fantastic things on it, one of which was a hoody with an interesting design, I mention it because I think it’s one of the only things that could make the hoody better.  It had a ponytail hole in the back of the hood; Useful, very useful. I also found out how easy it was to get hold of SmartWool products in the UK.  Because it’s all good me telling you about a product, but if you can’t get it easily its a bit of a moot review.  You can’t buy anything on the site (thankfully for my bank balance) but it is stocked in several major retail stores as well as many smaller ones.  If you don’t have one near you, they do answer your emails pretty quickly and you can always order online.

If you were to buy the HyFi TML hoody (http://www.smartwool.com/womens/midlayer/womens-tml-mid-full-zip-hoody.html) you wouldn’t be disappointed, it looks and does what it says it does and feels really comfortable, no itchiness here.  The price is definitely at the top of the scale at around £150,but it is merino wool and they do seem like a company that take pride in their products. The massive plus for me is knowing that if I buy this product or any of their range, I know it’s history and that they’re doing their darnedest to make it as eco friendly as possible. Thumbs up guys: through the handy thumb hole!

UK RRP £130.00

Stockists:www.smartwool.com (http://www.smartwool.com/international)

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Title: Outdoor Photography, Beyond the Point and Press – A CGR Book Review
Post by: comPiler on December 18, 2011, 06:00:28 pm
Outdoor Photography,  Beyond the Point and Press – A CGR Book Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/12/18/outdoor-photography-beyond-the-point-and-press-a-cgr-book-review/)
18 December 2011, 1:13 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/cicerone.jpg?w=300&h=176) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/cicerone.jpg)(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/12/cicerone-photography.jpg?w=190&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/12/cicerone-photography.jpg)

We gave our top amateur photographer Chris Wright the new Cicerone Outdoor Photography book. Did he pick any new tips to inspire him…? I have been taking photos for about the last 38 years but I would not set myself up to be any sort of an expert but I have has photos published and would like to thing I can take a decent Photo. I was asked to review a copy of Outdoor Photography People, Action and Places by Jon Sparks and Chiz Darkin by Climbing Gear Reviewers UK.

Chiz Dakin of (www.peakimages.co.uk)is an award winning freelance photograph specialising in outdoors photography and co-author of this book with Jon Sparks of (www.jon-sparks.co.uk) an award-winning photographer and writer based in Lancashire, UK. He has worked on five continents and specializes in landscape and outdoor pursuits.

 

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/12/flower-e1324203232409.jpg?w=300&h=210) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/12/flower-e1324203232409.jpg)Get up close and personal to your subject. The book is sets out to focus on the understanding rather than the techniques of photograph and that you are a passionate photograph that wants to improve and as the books says “don’t try to go from a VS climber to E6”. It is for people new to digital SLR photography in the outdoors but I also think it would also useful to people wishing to get more out of their SLR than point and shoot and to generally improve their photography. The book is based on an A5 format and is packed with information, tips and techniques along with high quality photographs from Chiz and Jon. This makes it a convenient size for the bookshelf/café table but also at a push you could take it into the outdoors to try out some of the tips and techniques contained within the book. Having said that I don’t think it would last too long if you did this too often.

All of the different outdoor sports and activities that the book sets out to cover are enhanced with good quality photographs many of which contain additional information on camera setting lens used ect… Also in each chapter throughout the book are light blue text boxes letting you in on what the photograph is thinking to achieve the best shot.

Rather than trying to do some think from every chapter in the book I decided to look at chapter 4 Wildlife and Nature simply because it’s accessible to everyone even if it’s only in your Local Park or Woodland. I used some of tips in this chapter and tried to reproduce some of the images from the chapter. So this is my attempt in reproducing the picture on page 92 in the book (a cluster of flowers) and page 95 (the Oystercatcher) but with a different subject matter.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/12/dragon-fly1-e1324203069407.jpg?w=300&h=202) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/12/dragon-fly1.jpg)Outdoor photography is more than just landscapes. I would like to have seen more information on what types/how to choose the right lenses to move your photograph forward. Plus maybe some information on selecting an external flash unit and flash photograph as these are the areas that someone new to DSLR would like to know as well. I also think that section on underwater photography while very interesting with some excellent photographs it’s a bit specialised for a book aimed at this market. Having said all that if you consider that most photography magazines cost between £4.00 and £5.00 for a monthly subscription and there might only be one article that is of any use to you. Then at £14.95 I think this book represents excellent value for money and you get a reference book for your bookshelf.

Authors: Chiz Dakin & Jon Sparks.

RRP £14.95

Stockists: www.cicerone.co.uk

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Title: Beastmaker 1000 fingerboard – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on December 22, 2011, 12:00:08 pm
Beastmaker 1000 fingerboard – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/12/21/beastmaker-1000-fingerboard-climbing-gear-review/)
21 December 2011, 7:30 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/12/beastmaker-logo.png?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/12/beastmaker-logo.png)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/12/beastmaker-1000.png?w=300&h=200)

Performance *****

Quality *****

Value *****

Can CGR reviewer Katie Mundy crush her problems using the Beastmaker 1000 series fingerboard…? Like many climbers who start to climb in the 7′s I’ve began to find specific moves really blum’n tricky.  As well as needing a lot more technique I’ve had to look at my finger and core strength and work out where my weaknesses lie – I have discovered there are many.  So on this note, I was excited, if not a little nervous to receive a Beastmaker 1000 series fingerboard (it’s a little intimidating to start with).

 In the past 2 years, Beastmaker (http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/) has fast become one of the leading fingerboard makers; and what started in a small Sheffield cellar has rapidly spread across the globe to become a worldwide brand. It is one which stands for ‘dusty cellared home grown power’, with the ethos that anything is possible given the right tools for the job (and a bit of elbow grease).

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/12/beastmaker-3.png?w=300&h=225) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/12/beastmaker-3.png)Beastmaker-great for training finger strength.  The boards are made from Tulip wood, which is a good strong, malleable wood, and leaves a smooth finish for your pinkies to crank on.  Being wood it also absorbs the sweat from your hands.  Unlike many products which start in the UK, then meander off to faraway shores to be produced; Beastmaker still create theirs right here in sunny Blighty.

Now the reason I’ve never bought a finger board (apart from pure laziness) is that I never knew where to put one.  I don’t want some blue resin monstrosity on my beams or door frames, inside or out.  But being made of wood, the Beastmaker (http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/) board fits in a little better, it’s a bit more like a piece of furniture.  Saying this, I still wasn’t allowed it inside, so off to the garage I went.  If you don’t want to attach it directly, you can get panels to put up behind the board, (not from the site though, which would be nice).

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/12/beastmaker-1.png?w=225&h=300)

 With my board now proudly attached to a beam in the garage I began my training… 

Firstly I noted down how much weight I could take off on each of my fingers.  This was where I got my first surprise.  I realised that my index and middle fingers were literally taking all the weight when I climbed, my back two fingers may have well of been making a cup of tea elsewhere!  I told a few people about this and it seems a pretty common thing, given the setup of your hands.  But this is something I would never have worked out had I just carried on climbing away, constantly failing on the same moves.  Inspired to right this wrong I set up a weekly training schedule.

 To really see a difference it’s probably best to train 2-3 times a week but I didn’t really have that much time, so I stuck to once a week 1 1/2 hours a session.  I will add here that I miss read the training plan on my first session and ended up doing a gruelling 2 1/2 hour session! Not advised.

When you first use the board it’s a little slippery with it being wood, but get the chalk on it and have a couple of goes and it feels grand.  So much nicer than shredded fingers on a resin board (you know the feeling).  Being a 1000 series  (http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/collections/products/products/beastmaker-1000-series)it has lovely big jugs on top for a good old warm up before starting; note this is not the case for the 2000 (http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/collections/products/products/beastmaker-2000-series) so make sure you get the right one when ordering.  The 1000 series  (http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/collections/products/products/beastmaker-1000-series)is designed for people climbing between V3 and V9, improving finger and core strength in a graduated manner. I’ve found there’s a lot of scope for your improvement, with so many hold variations, I’ve been able to really concentrate on specific areas when it’s for a certain move I’m working on.

The 2000 series  (http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/collections/products/products/beastmaker-2000-series)on the other hand has 45 degree slopers, monos and shallower finger holds, so it’s definitely a next level board, which again has so many variations on it.  Not ideal for warming up on, but if you’ve already got the 1000 you’ve covered all bases.

B(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/12/beastmaker-2.png?w=108&h=144) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/12/beastmaker-2.png)ack to training and apart from being in a freezing cold garage with my cat looking at me like I’m crazy, all is going well.  I’ve moved from doing drags in deep pockets to the much shallower ones and can put more weight on my two rubbish back fingers.  So after a few weeks I have been noticing the difference in my strength; now this isn’t ground breaking stuff; we all know if you train you get stronger. So what makes a Beastmaker board different from all the other ones out there?

Well, apart from the material they use, the main difference would be the time and research gone behind each and every hold position.  Nothing is there that shouldn’t be.  Unlike many boards which have holds just plonked on; the Beastmaker team say they have rigorously trial and errored many combinations to create the most effective training board; and seeing as it’s what they train on, it must be working! 

So, has the symmetry of the board helped at all?  Well yes, if anything it’s helped to show me my weaknesses, and I’m now super determined to even myself out.  The wood has been kind to my fingers and the board is slowly starting to blend in with the beam.  Even my Nana’s had a little go on it, so family friendly as well!  And at £75.00 I’d say pretty wallet friendly too.

Beastmaker already have a training plan on their website and it’s being updated shortly.  Just make sure you don’t misread it and have a 2 1/2 hour session on your first go!  

 For stockists or to buy online see: http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/

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Title: Dry Tooling at Leeds Wall – Blog
Post by: comPiler on December 22, 2011, 06:00:10 pm
Dry Tooling at Leeds Wall – Blog (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/12/22/dry-tooling-at-leeds-wall-blog/)
22 December 2011, 3:12 pm

CGR brave the warm sunny weather to crank the new dry tooling routes at The Leeds Wall. We were both short of time today as I had a family  and Kev needed to do some last minute Christmas shopping. A phone call later and the decision was made – we would follow the rumour mill and sniff out the alleged dry tooling routes at The Leeds Wall. We’ve both already been out this season, Kev has done The Jabberwock on Gable las  weekend and I’ve been on a more sedate Pinnacle Ridge (in full blizzard mind), so we didn’t feel too bad about catching a couple of hours indoors.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/12/p1020623.jpg?w=512&h=288) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/12/p1020623.jpg)Kev cranking out the M5 corner I packed my BD Vipers, helmet, leashes and rock shoes and headed down. It was refreshing to be able to turn up whenever and just pay a normal wall fee to climb. There was a sheet to sign, but other than that no extra bureaucracy was enforced. I was given a set of safety glasses and two tennis balls to put over my adze and hammer, Kev having a set of BD Fusions didn’t need them.

We then went into the tower (completely away from the main climbing area) where the routes were set up. There were 10 routes of grades M3 through to M7, the routes are new so needed a little work on them – mostly some small screw on footholds to make the starts a little easier. But otherwise there was a great range of routes with plenty of high steps, hooks and a lot of delicate corners and steep yarding. The holds are plastic backed onto plywood squares, same colour holds for picks and feet.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/12/p1020632.jpg?w=300&h=168) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/12/p1020632.jpg)A great variety of moves on all the routes. I immediately whacked myself in the chin with my adze as I didn’t want to look uncool with the tennis balls on the ends of my axes. Hey ho, I now look even more uncool with a cut chin for Christmas. I swapped to using Kev’s Fusions and that felt better.

Two hours later we were blasted and very happy, deciding that it was a great local venue for dry tooling and super addition to the Leeds facilities. The routes still need a little tweaking and there are plans to add more routes. The best route was definitely the blue M6, left of the door (looking out), some great back and footing lead to a roof and some big pull on small holds plonks you onto a desperately delicate move to a small hold that feels miles away. Well pumpy and well done Leeds Wall, a big thank you from Climbing Gear Reviews.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/12/p1020635.jpg?w=300&h=225) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/12/p1020635.jpg)Kev tries out the new CGR prototype axe - pre order now! Merry Christmas to you all and be safe out there this winter.

Dave, Kev and the team.

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Title: MERRY CHRISTMAS!!! – Video, Adam Ondra Font 8c
Post by: comPiler on December 25, 2011, 12:00:17 pm
MERRY CHRISTMAS!!! – Video, Adam Ondra Font 8c (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/12/25/merry-christmas-video-adam-ondra-font-8c/)
25 December 2011, 11:27 am

Wishing all our readers a Merry Christmas from Kev, Dave and the CGR team (http://s0.wp.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)

Enjoy this gift from us:

http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=34171412&server=vimeo.com&show_title=0&show_byline=0&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1&autoplay=0&loop=0 (http://vimeo.com/moogaloop.swf?clip_id=34171412&server=vimeo.com&show_title=0&show_byline=0&show_portrait=0&color=&fullscreen=1&autoplay=0&loop=0) ADAM ONDRA – FIRST 8C BOULDERS (http://vimeo.com/34171412) from BERNARTWOOD (http://vimeo.com/user918903) on Vimeo (http://vimeo.com).

 

 

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Title: Clif Nutrition Bars – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on December 30, 2011, 12:00:15 pm
Clif Nutrition Bars – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/12/30/clif-nutrition-bars-climbing-gear-review/)
30 December 2011, 8:25 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/12/clif-logo-jpeg.jpg?w=98&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/12/clif-logo-jpeg.jpg)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/12/choc-chip-bar.jpg?w=153&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/12/choc-chip-bar.jpg)

Taste *****

Value for Money ***

Now any food that has a picture of a climber on the packet is going to get my vote. We bumped into the Clif Bar  (http://www.clifbar.co.uk/)people at the Kendal Mountain Festival this year and they gave us a handful of bars to test. They included Natural Energy bars, Builder’s Protein Bars and Shot Bloks Electrolyte Chews.

The company have been popular in the States for a while now and I have begun to see them on sale in the UK, namely at The Depot in Leeds. They have green credentials priding themselves on using  wholesome and nutritious ingredients and having no trans fats, hydrogenated fats or high fructose corn syrup. Every bar also donates 1% for The Planet. It should be said that due to UK regulations Clif Bar cannot state that the bars are organic or contain no transfats, you should read all the info from the sites and make your own mind up. They tasted wholesome and nutritious to me, and to be honest-that’s good enough!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/12/bb-choc-mint.jpg?w=300&h=117) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/12/bb-choc-mint.jpg)Mint Choc Chip - what's there not to like? The US range is quite extensive and the Energy Bars alone have 19 flavours. Here in the UK there are 3 Energy Bar flavours (Chocolate Chip, Oatmeal Raisin & Walnut and Crunchy Peanut Butter) and 3 Builder’s Bar flavours ( Chocolate, Peanut Butter and Chocolate Mint)

I only really use energy bars in high stress climbing situations like winter and alpine climbing, where I need to get energy in quickly; if the food is palatable then that’s a bonus. It also needs to fit in my pocket and not freeze up too much, be easy to open and stay in one piece so it doesn’t make a gooey mess in my pocket.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/12/clif-bar-hiking.jpg?w=150&h=112) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/12/clif-bar-hiking.jpg)Clif Bars - fit in any pocket for food on the move. That’s a big ask, I’ve tried: Mars Bars, Snickers, homemade Muesli Bar, Wine Gums, Trail Mix, tubes of condensed milk, various cereal bars as well as specialist bars such as Powerbars and High 5 bars; all are satisfactory but not ideal. So did the Clif Bars have the edge?

Flavour wise we tried the Crunchy Peanut Butter and the Oatmeal Raisin Walnut, these were absolutely scrummylicious! Moist and chewy with a real homemade flavour, I could have eaten the Peanut Butter flavour all day, non-stop! The Oatmeal Raisin Walnut flavour was like a chewy flapjack but with only 7.3% fat it didn’t taste greasy like flapjack can.

They all stayed intact in my pocket and I found I could devour a bar in 3 bites which gave me 189 calories. They also felt very filling and the only problem I really had with them was that wasn’t enough in a bar, at £1.30 per bar it can lead to an expensive habit.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/12/clif-bar-peanut-butter.jpg?w=150&h=112) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/12/clif-bar-peanut-butter.jpg)Crunchy Peanut Butter - yummy. My favourite was undoubtedly the Mint Chocolate Builder’s bar, this tasted so good as to be virtually indistinguishable from a chocolate bar. These pack 20 grams of protein in every bar, 270 calories and 8% fat plus a whole host of added vitamins and minerals in the 68 grams; just what you need on a day out.

These were also more filling than the energy bars but drier in consistency.

We also tried the Chocolate flavour which was very yummy indeed (http://s0.wp.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)

So…fantastically yummy and delicious bars that are very palatable, easy to eat on the move and are packed full of nutrition. On the down side I feel that the energy bars need to be slightly bigger to make them better value.

Do keep an eye out for Kev’s review of the energy drinks, gels and food for high intensity sports.

RRP £1.30

For stockists see : www.clifbar.co.uk (http://www.clifbar.co.uk/)

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Title: Metolius Woodgrips Compact Fingerboard – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on January 12, 2012, 12:00:28 am
Metolius Woodgrips Compact Fingerboard – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2012/01/11/metolius-woodgrips-compact-fingerboard-climbing-gear-review/)
11 January 2012, 7:35 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/metolius.png?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/metolius.png)(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/wg-compact.jpg?w=640&h=208) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/wg-compact.jpg)

GCR put the Metolius Woodgrips Fingerboard through it’s paces… Quality ****

Performance***

Value for Money ***

Earlier in the training season we published Katie’s review of the Beastmaker 1000 (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/12/21/beastmaker-1000-fingerboard-climbing-gear-review/) fingerboard. At the same time I received another wooden fingerboard from US manufacturers Metolius - The Compact Fingerboard (http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/wood-grips_training_boards.html). This is a compact version of the Deluxe.

I’ve been a fan of wooden holds for many years now, I can remember training with the legendary Paul Craven (training meister extraordinaire!) in 1986 on wooden holds screwed to his attic beam (we shared a house in Leeds just don’t tell the landlord). The benefits of wood are: it has great friction – even with sweaty holds; it’s cheap, environmentally friendly (if sourced responsibly) and most importantly it’s very skin friendly – allowing training to happen even with shredded skin.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/metolius-woodgrips-compact.jpg?w=300&h=225) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/metolius-woodgrips-compact.jpg)Wood is great when your skin is sore The Compact Board (http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/wood-grips_training_boards.html) certainly looks nice and fitted in well with the décor of my house, Katie decided to mount hers in the garage I mounted mine above the bedroom door – this was more important than you think. I had fought for many years (since the removal of my whole climbing garage to make extra garden space) for some extra training, wood was the marital compromise. The quality of the board was very good, it looked nice and felt very skin friendly. The wood is sustainably sourced Alder, Metolius stated that the criteria for wood selection came down to: suitability for climbing, availability, sustainability, and affordability. The board was not machined from a single solid block but from a block laminated using smaller sections. Very similar to a modern table you might buy from Ikea. The wood is very dark and had an excellent grain for friction.

It was very simple and straight forward to mount, it came with eight deep and aggressive screws and pre drilled holes to place them in. I was mounting to brick so had to find some wall plugs and within 20 minutes I had the board installed and ready to use. There is a video tutorial to help with installation on the Metolius website. It really wasn’t difficult at all, you would need to remember is that you are going to hang your entire weight off it so be careful what you attach it too.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/p1020526.jpg?w=300&h=225) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/01/p1020526.jpg)Mounted above the door, it fitted in well with the decor So, how was the board for training on? I am a great fan of fingerboards and have used a homemade wooden one for several years now. The most useful thing about having a fingerboard is the convenience, I can always find 10 or 20 minutes to hang around on the fingerboard, no matter how rubbish I’m feeling. It’s at its most useful after a run, and a great session will include some light stretching, a 40 minute run and up to 20 minutes on the finger board.

There was a good variety of holds, mostly in pocket format. There were two really comfortable jugs and a large sloper on the top. The CNC machining left each hold rounded and smooth to hang off, I didn’t get any skin pinching that can often come with artificial climbing holds. Together with the tight grained wood it felt for a very comfortable training experience.

So, put all these things together. The pleasant aesthetic, the beautiful feel and the comfort I feel that wood is the way forward. You do pay for that, up to £10.00 more than a Metolius Project Board (http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/project-board.html) (a similar size) but I feel it’s worth the extra cost. A nice fingerboard that I can see me using for many, many years to come. The only feature I would change is to make the sloper more of a slight 5o angle as it was flat on the top of it and I found I could hang on for more time than I wanted to.

Finally, I used the board in conjunction with the Metolius 10 minute sequence guides (http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/training_giude_10_min.html). I have been using these for about 4 years now and found them great as I like the motivational factor of them being 10 minutes – I can always find 10 minutes to train, however busy I am!

SRP £85.00

For stockist vist: www.beyondhope.co.uk (http://www.beyondhope.co.uk)

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Title: The North Face Super Zephyrus Hoodie – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on February 03, 2012, 06:00:17 pm
The North Face Super Zephyrus Hoodie – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2012/02/03/the-north-face-super-zephyrus-hoody-climbing-gear-review/)
3 February 2012, 12:07 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/tnflogo-red-square-only.jpg?w=384&h=384) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/tnflogo-red-square-only.jpg)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/tnf-zephyrus.jpg?w=384&h=446) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/tnf-zephyrus.jpg)The North Face Super Zephyrus Hoody Is the The North Face Super Zephyrus Hoodie up to a north face…? Performance ****

Quality ****

Value for money ****

RRP £160.00

The North Face say: “a lightweight insulated hooded wind shell that offers versatility

in a range of climatic conditions. The North Face Men’s Super Zephyrus Hoodie

is a hooded insulated jacket that can be worn on its own or as a mid layer when

conditions turn ferocious.”

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/02/p1040600.jpg?w=384&h=682) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/02/p1040600.jpg)The North Face Super Zephyrus Hoodie below the Eiger North Face I have spent the majority of the last few summer and winter seasons in a clothing

system so packed with colour that it could be likened to a lump of coal, and in

some cases so dated,  that it could well have been a lump of coal. A summer trip

to the Alps with a pack heavily laden with said clothing prompted me to rethink my

wardrobe in order that I might (a) save some weight and (b) maybe one day be more than a

climber masquerading as a shadow in photos.

The Super Zephyrus Hoodie is a Primaloft insulated, hooded windshell. It has Power

Stretch side panels, hood and hem for a snug, comfortable fit. It has two alpine

zipped pockets and an internal chest pocket, all of which are alpine pack and harness

friendly. Oh, and the one I got is lime green.

In the last couple of months, I have worn the Super Zephyrus Hoodie almost non stop.

It’s been worn to the pub, at work, at the crag, skydiving, and for both alpine days and

nights. It’s super comfortable and feels almost criminal to take it off.

When using it in anger, I tend to wear a thick base layer underneath and that is all.

Wearing much more causes overheating whilst I am moving, it really is that warm.

For really cold days, another mid-layer could easily be worn underneath. It has a full

length zip which when fully done up, excludes drafts at the neck and can help regulate

temperature whilst on the move. When stopping at belays, or for a drink, it is easy to

throw a belay jacket over the top and stay warm. The Power Stretch hems with thumb

loops help to prevent any riding up of the sleeves when under a jacket, or whilst

wearing gloves. The Power Stretch panel in the hood helps to give it a more fitted feel

and it is very comfortable (and warm) when worn under a helmet.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/02/p10406111.jpg?w=346&h=614) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/02/p10406111.jpg)The North Face Super Zephyrus Hoodie - the fitted hood was snug, stretchy and comfortable worn under a helmet. Now for the science part so concentrate! The Super Zephyrus Hoodie is insulated with

40g PrimaLoft One and is covered by windproof, ripstop nylon and PowerStretch

where each is most effective. This all combines to make a lightweight (weighing in at

around 740g), warm, windproof mid layer offering light water repellence.

I used a size medium which offered a range of movement beyond my expectations,

especially whilst wearing a harness. When swinging axes above my head and using

my hands to climb mixed pitches, I was not impeded by the cut of the jacket.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/02/p10406052.jpg?w=614&h=346) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/02/p10406052.jpg)The North Face Super Zephyrus Hoodie - thumb loops provide hand and wrist warmth and prevent any riding up of the sleeves when climbing. The one downside that I found to this jacket is the durability of the materials used in

certain areas. At the end of one day I found that I had a 6 inch tear in the ripstop nylon

of one elbow and a tear in the Power Stretch of the other elbow. Fortunately due to the

nature of the insulation, I wasn’t leaking feathers everywhere and the jacket remained

warm. Because the jacket is so good at keeping you warm whilst moving, I was lured

into wearing it as an outer layer when it perhaps isn’t hardwearing enough for use

on ‘traditional’ mixed pitches.

In Conclusion

This is the best mid/ lightweight outer layer I have used. It is rapidly

becoming a staple jacket for all occasions. It is super comfortable has really good

warmth to weight ratio and looks great. The drab wardrobe need never be opened

again.



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Title: SCARPA Phantom 6000 – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on February 07, 2012, 06:00:24 pm
SCARPA Phantom 6000 – Climbing Gear Review (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2012/02/07/scarpa-phantom-6000-climbing-gear-review/)
7 February 2012, 2:59 pm

(http://climbinggearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/Scarpa-300x235.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/05/27/marmot-hueco-pant-climbing-gear-review/1311-revision-10/)(http://climbinggearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/SCR0148-OR-300x300.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/05/27/marmot-hueco-pant-climbing-gear-review/1311-revision-11/)

Dave Searle (http://davesearle.me/) reviews some modern winter boots, the Phantom 6000 from SCARPA… Performance ****

Quality *****

Value for money ****

RRP £529.99

I have been using my Scarpa 6000 now for about a year and on the most part I have been really impressed with them.

General Design and Features

When I was first in the market for a pair of winter boots (and this was my first pair) I was strongly recommended by lots of people to go for the La Sportiva Spantik.  I tried them both on in the shop for hours, in different sizes and came to the conclusion that the 6000 fit me slightly better. This was perhaps the main reason I went for them in the end however I also prefered the design of the 6000 too.  They seemed to be more nimble and precise and I prefer having a gaitered boot any day of the week as it keeps them drier when your wading through snow and it means that the laces aren’t subject to any wear.  The sole unit is thinner than on the Spantik which sacrifices warmth but gains precision.

(http://climbinggearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/DSC04891-1024x576.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/05/27/marmot-hueco-pant-climbing-gear-review/1311-revision-9/) Dave Searle climbing in the SCARPA Phantom 6000   Fit

I had a slight problem with heel lift after using them maybe three of four times.  I didn’t have this problem in the shop and it was strange that it developed over time. I have rectified that now with sticky back foam stuck to the liners around my heel and a heel raiser to lock my heel into the back of the boot.  I would have probably had this problem in any boot as I do have particularly narrow heels. Now they fit like a dream. If your set on these boots then it is worth remembering that if you have a low volume foot like mine then they can be made to fit.

Lacing

To start with I was a fan of the lacing system, it seemed easy to tighten up and easy to use with big gloves but I pretty soon realized that the locking cleat eventually works itself loose after a few hours of climbing or walking.  I originally combated this problem by tying a normal shoe knot over the top of the cleat but now I have taken it off completely and I just use a reef knot to fasten them.  I never feel the need to adjust the laces when I’m climbing so now when I’m tying them in the hut or at the bivi I use a knot that won’t come lose and this seems to be the best option for me. I think the lacing system could do with a rethink in my opinion as I have had other friends who have had similar problems with it.  Perhaps a beefier cleat or thicker, less slick laces which are easier tie?

Warmth

I have been really impressed with the warmth of these boots as well.  I thought that they weren’t going to be as warm as a Spantik but I have since realised it depends entirely on your circulation and the fit as to whether or not you’ll feel the cold.  I have sat two nights out in them without a sleeping bag and I didn’t have any major  issues.  The first and worst of the two was on the Colton/Macintyre on the Grandes Jorrasses.  Me and my two buddies got benighted at about 4300m with only a two man man bothy shelter and half a karimat to share.  It was November here in Cham and the ambient temperature was close to -15C and felt much more with windchill.  Jim and Gav both had Spantiks and I was in my 6000ers and I was really worried about my feet but the only option was to sit and suffer…. which we did…. for 8 hours.  The night passed slowly and I emerged with very minor nerve damage to my big toe (phew).  Jim had the same and Gav was fine.  I don’t think the 6000ers are as warm as the Spantiks but if you have good circulation then these should be fine for what they are recommend for (winter alpinism and greater range climbing up to 6000m).  I think my circulation is average and for most of the climbing I have done with them (alpine north faces in autumn and spring) they have been spot on.  Light and dexterous enough for mixed climbing, warm enough for the kind of temperatures you encounter out here and stiff enough to plough up a 1000m of ice without your calves exploding out the back of your trousers.

(http://climbinggearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/P1050851.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2012/02/07/scarpa-phantom-6000-climbing-gear-review/the-north-face-verto-jacket-climbing-gear-review/) SCARPA Phantom 6000 – perfect for technical mixed ground   Wear

They haven’t shown much sign of wear yet. I had a small nick in the orange fabric after their first days use scrambling over sharp granite boulders on my way up to the Carrington/Rouse on the north face of the Pelerins.  I though that was going to set the tone for how they were going to fair but that is the only damage they have sustained in the year I have had them which I think is pretty impressive as I have done some long approaches on sharp granite moraine, mixed climbed in Scotland and they have been up six 1000m+ north face routes as well as a load of shorter mixed routes.

Crampon Compatabilty

One issue that I encountered with these boots was getting my crampons to fit.  When I first got these boots I had a pair of plastic bailed Grivel G14 (older version).  I strapped them on and started off up without really paying a huge amount of attention to how they fit.  I felt pretty insecure on the first route and it was only on closed inspection when I looked at the set up that I realised the front points were only forward about 5mm or so from the front of the boot as supposed to 25-35mm as I would normally expect.  I worked out that it was because the sole unit is really narrow at the front and it doesn’t hold the crampon far enough forward.  So back to the shop I went for a new pair of crampons. It was a hungry month after that!  So be warned check your crampons on them first.

In an ideal world I would change two things about these boot.

1.    I would make them tighter around the heel to combat heel lift. It might just be that I have really skinny heels but some other guys I know who have them would say the same thing.

2.    I would change the lacing system to something more reliable.  Its pretty frustrating having your boots come undone on you when your ankle deep in snow, trying to hop about getting them done up again.

All in all they are really great boot, and have definitely become very popular out here in Chamonix and for good reason.  After all Ueli Steck was the main man behind the design of these boots and he knows what to look for in a good boot!  I’d change a few things like I’ve said but I’m really happy with them and if I was on market for a pair of winter boots again I’d make the same choice.

About Dave Searle

(http://climbinggearreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/P1040386.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/05/24/the-north-face-verto-jacket-climbing-gear-review/1327-revision/)Dave Searle is a keen Alpinist and skier based in Chamonix in the French Alps. He runs an excellent and informative website www.chamonixtopo.com (http://www.chamonixtopo.com/) and blogs (http://davesearle.me/) about his adventures here. He describes himself as:

“a 24 year old Climber and Skier based in the mountain mecca of Chamonix Mont Blanc.   I have been climbing for about 7 years now working my way up from scratch to climb some of the biggest faces in the Alps including the North face of the Eiger and the Grandes Jorasses.  I enjoy all aspects of climbing and skiing, but for me the best days are fast and light ascents of long routes on big mountains.  I am a keen skier and I love blasting about the mountains of Chamonix Skiing the steeps, couloirs and awesome faces it has to offer.   I also really enjoy UK Trad climbing and Scottish winter climbing and I quite often miss these types of climbing when I am in Chamonix.  

I hope to branch out into different mountain regions in the near future.  I have many ideas and dreams of adventures to be had all over the world and I am looking forward to getting out and making them happen.

I currently work as a driver for an airport transfer service (Mountain DropOffs) out in Chamonix because it gives me plenty of time to go skiing and climbing whilst also giving me a chance to rest between stints in the mountains.”

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Title: NEW WEBSITE – www.climbinggearreviews.com
Post by: comPiler on February 25, 2012, 12:00:08 pm
NEW WEBSITE – www.climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2012/02/25/new-website-www-climbinggearreviews-com/)
25 February 2012, 9:12 am

We have a new website which has just gone live.

View it at www.climbinggearreviews.com (http://www.climbinggearreviews.com)

All future reviews will be published there.

Content on www.climbinggearreviewsuk.com will remain live until we transfer it over to the new site in the coming months.

A big thanks to all our readers and suppliers for your continued support and interest. We hope the new site provides a more straight forward and user friendly experience. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated either by the site’s comments system, our facebook page or twitter.

All the best

Kev and Dave

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Title: Arc’teryx No-Zone 35 Climbing Pack- Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on September 23, 2012, 01:00:16 pm
Arc’teryx No-Zone 35 Climbing Pack- Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2012/09/23/arcteryx-no-zone-35-climbing-pack-climbing-gear-review/)
23 September 2012, 6:12 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx.jpg?w=180&h=118) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx.jpg)(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/arcteryx-nozone-35.png?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/arcteryx-nozone-35.png)

Has GCR found the perfect climbing pack with the Arc’teryx No-Zone 35? Performance ****

Style***

Value for money ***

Those who have been reading my reviews for while now have been following my quest for the perfect climbing pack. It’s been going on for some time now and I’ve written about and reviewed plenty of packs that although good don’t quite make it to the mark. So how did the new climbing specific offering from premier brand Arc’teryx (http://www.arcteryx.com/?EN) live up to testing?

Arc’teryx describe it as a: A smaller-volume, robust yet highly comfortable backpack designed for alpine expeditions. The range come in three volumes, 35l, 55l and a whopping 75l (http://www.arcteryx.com/Product.aspx?EN/Mens/Packs/Nozone-35#20L_To_40L) and three sizes S, M and L so plenty of range to find one for your requirements. The official stats had it down as 0.95kg and the trusty GGR kitchen scales weighed it in at 1kg, so good enough. Stripped down it weighed 900g, so pretty darned light.

I would describe it as: An excellent all round climbing pack that will suit the majority of your climbing needs. I tested the No-Zone 35l sized M (http://www.arcteryx.com/Product.aspx?EN/Mens/Packs/Nozone-35#20L_To_40L).

Let’s look at the specifics first- the pack is top loading and anotomically designed with a narrow, tapered(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/nozone-climbing.jpg?w=168&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/nozone-climbing.jpg) profile. This proved great for climbing with a helmet on, especially with the lid tucked into the main body. This was one of the best packs I have used for climbing with. It had a very low profile and offered an unrestricted view. The pack rode high when climbing and I had plenty of access to my harness. It wasn’t hydration compatible but this didn’t bother me as I don’t use hoses, if you do it’s about time you stopped anyway! Stop, take a nice drink and soak in the view, refill even from a beautifully cold mountain stream and drink some more.

It was very comfortable to carry, even loaded up. The straps were anatomically designed and fitted my shoulder width very well without chaffing. The straps were thin, so much so that I thought at first they were made using warp technology. But they did have some padding and were comfortable. The sternum strap was adjustable and very stable, alas it didn’t have a strap to fit a watch on or any other way of clipping a GPS on either.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/nozone-stays.jpg?w=150&h=112) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/nozone-stays.jpg)The stays were very comfortable and easy to remove. The pack was stabalized with two extruded aluminium stays, they were easily removed and they had a great, low profile. This has been the only pack I tested where I have kept the stays in. They didn’t impede with climbing performance at all and were labelled to avoid confusion when being replaced. Top marks here. The back also had a non removable, high density plastazote support. This posed a problem for Kev’s mate Gary from Big Red Climbing (http://www.bigredclimbing.com.au/).  He used the pack extensively in The Alps this summer and complained of the sharp corners creating sores on his lower back. So you will need to look out for this and try the pack under full load to see if it fits your lower back shape, I must say I haven’t experienced the problem.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/nozone-alps2-0.png?w=168&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/nozone-alps2-0.png)Comfortable for climbing.

On the Cordier Pillar The sternum straps were stitched in such a way as to make watch attachment a no no. I’ve wittered on about this for a while now- but I feel that in any mountain situation, especially in winter, access to the time/altitude is quite important. A small point but the pack let me down on this. The waist belt was easy to remove but more difficult to get back on the field, especially with gloves on. I would have preferred a method of tucking the belt away for climbing instead.

The construction was very robust, which was amazing as it just felt so light. The materials were totally bombproof and there was double reinforcement in all the high wear areas such as the base, ice axe holders and the front (where crampons can be lashed). The rest was made of a lighter weight fabric which still felt robust. I’ve treated the pack quite badly and its showing no signs of damage at all. There was plenty of bar tacking in all the high stress areas that were neatly hidden away inside the pack. The pack was showerproof, except the lid (more later) and it kept kit dry enough.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/nozone-clip.jpg?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/nozone-clip.jpg)A wand pocket, enough to stuff a hat and gloves. When I received the pack I let out a whoop of joy – wand pockets! Only to find that there was only one, and small it was too. The website photos show the wand pocket with a snow probe in it, OK you may need it for that occasionally but I couldn’t get two hiking poles in it – a much more frequent use. I could get my clip stick in comfortably and easily stash wrappers, light gloves, buff, hat or an ultralight windproof.

The compression straps worked easily and were made of 12mm webbing. Both of them had clip buckle fastening, which was handy for stashing stuff onto the side that I needed quickly. You could also stash tent outers, sleeping mats, etc if you were loading it up. The top strap incorporated the ice axe holder, so instead of putting the axe through a loop and attaching it though an elasticated loop. You push the shaft of the axe through the loop in the compression strap, place the pick in the sleeve at the bottom. Clip the bottom compression strap and tighten both compression straps and you’re good to go – the whole system relies on you remembering to tighten up the compression straps. If you don’t you’re in real danger of losing your axe.

The whole system works beautifully with a classic Piolet, and it worked fine with my BD Vipers. But anything that has funky triggers and palm rests or radical curves it may be a little faffy.

The lid was easily detachable with just a couple of clip buckles. It floated and was connected to the main body with two 10mm webbing straps. These were very slippery and I found that if I forgot to keep the lid in place using the stainless steel hook in the middle of the lid it quickly became floppy and loose. When I had the pack loaded enough to need the float it again became loose. I am assuming this will only be annoying until the straps wear enough to develop some friction. But it’s annoying enough for now. The closure was on top of the pack, I can see this being a good idea for easy access, but the zip did leak water when it rained. The key fob was situated in the front and I felt could have been a little larger, I could only just get my whistle, tat knife and car keys on it and getting keys off was faffy at the end of a long day out. The lid was well shape though and had great volume. You easily get two pairs of gloves, two hats, wallet, phone etc. Load it up as much as you like it could take it.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/nozone-alps1-0.png?w=168&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/nozone-alps1-0.png)The ultimate Alpine pack? The pack closed with a neat one handed system that had over sized, webbed grabs, very glove friendly. The closures were curiously offset to the right and worked really well for me – but I’m right handed. I was climbing a big multipitch route with a mate who is left handed and he found it a nightmare, especially when the pack was clipped into the belay. I couldn’t see any real advantage to having the closure that way. All the packs I’ve used and tested had closures in the middle and have worked perfectly well, the oversized pull tabs were great though, a great feature. The 6mm micro daisy chains were bar tacked onto the main body in a tapered configuration. The pack came with enough shockcord to thread through and this together with the reinforcement in the body provided a secure crampon attachment. The chains were plenty big enough to clip carabiners into.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/nozone-35-packed-for-winter.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/nozone-35-packed-for-winter.jpg)Easily packs a full day of winter kit. So, a great lightweight pack that would be suitable for all your mountain adventures from sport climbing to Alpine Expeditions. Is it the perfect pack? I’m afraid the answer is no, there were several minor niggles and we don’t buy Arc’teryx for minor niggles we buy it for perfection. Still it’s a beautiful pack and extremely comfortable, you can load it to the max and will easily swallow up all your kit. It weighs next to nothing and for climbing in it’s a dream, certainly a condender for the best Alpine and winter pack on market at the moment.

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Title: Arc’teryx Nozone 35- Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on October 07, 2012, 01:00:25 pm
Arc’teryx Nozone 35- Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2012/09/23/arcteryx-no-zone-35-climbing-pack-climbing-gear-review/)
23 September 2012, 6:12 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx.jpg?w=180&h=118) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx.jpg)(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/arcteryx-nozone-35.png?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/arcteryx-nozone-35.png)

Has CGR found the perfect climbing pack with the Arc’teryx No-Zone 35? Performance ****

Style***

Value for money ***

Those who have been reading my reviews for while now have been following my quest for the perfect climbing pack. It’s been going on for some time now and I’ve written about and reviewed plenty of packs that although good don’t quite make it to the mark. So how did the new climbing specific offering from premier brand Arc’teryx (http://www.arcteryx.com/?EN) live up to testing?

Arc’teryx describe it as a: A smaller-volume, robust yet highly comfortable backpack designed for alpine expeditions. The range come in three volumes, 35l, 55l and a whopping 75l (http://www.arcteryx.com/Product.aspx?EN/Mens/Packs/Nozone-35#20L_To_40L) and three sizes S, M and L so plenty of range to find one for your requirements. The official stats had it down as 0.95kg and the trusty CGR kitchen scales weighed it in at 1kg, so good enough. Stripped down it weighed 900g, so pretty darned light.

I would describe it as: An excellent all round climbing pack that will suit the majority of your climbing needs. I tested the No-Zone 35l sized M (http://www.arcteryx.com/Product.aspx?EN/Mens/Packs/Nozone-35#20L_To_40L).

Let’s look at the specifics first- the pack is top loading and anotomically designed with a narrow, tapered(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/nozone-climbing.jpg?w=168&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/nozone-climbing.jpg) profile. This proved great for climbing with a helmet on, especially with the lid tucked into the main body. This was one of the best packs I have used for climbing with. It had a very low profile and offered an unrestricted view. The pack rode high when climbing and I had plenty of access to my harness. It wasn’t hydration compatible but this didn’t bother me as I don’t use hoses, if you do it’s about time you stopped anyway! Stop, take a nice drink and soak in the view, refill even from a beautifully cold mountain stream and drink some more.

It was very comfortable to carry, even loaded up. The straps were anatomically designed and fitted my shoulder width very well without chaffing. The straps were thin, so much so that I thought at first they were made using warp technology. But they did have some padding and were comfortable. The sternum strap was adjustable and very stable, alas it didn’t have a strap to fit a watch on or any other way of clipping a GPS on either.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/nozone-stays.jpg?w=150&h=112) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/nozone-stays.jpg)The stays were very comfortable and easy to remove. The pack was stabalized with two extruded aluminium stays, they were easily removed and they had a great, low profile. This has been the only pack I tested where I have kept the stays in. They didn’t impede with climbing performance at all and were labelled to avoid confusion when being replaced. Top marks here. The back also had a non removable, high density plastazote support. This posed a problem for Kev’s mate Gary from Big Red Climbing (http://www.bigredclimbing.com.au/).  He used the pack extensively in The Alps this summer and complained of the sharp corners creating sores on his lower back. So you will need to look out for this and try the pack under full load to see if it fits your lower back shape, I must say I haven’t experienced the problem.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/nozone-alps2-0.png?w=168&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/nozone-alps2-0.png)Comfortable for climbing.

On the Cordier Pillar The sternum straps were stitched in such a way as to make watch attachment a no no. I’ve wittered on about this for a while now- but I feel that in any mountain situation, especially in winter, access to the time/altitude is quite important. A small point but the pack let me down on this. The waist belt was easy to remove but more difficult to get back on the field, especially with gloves on. I would have preferred a method of tucking the belt away for climbing instead.

The construction was very robust, which was amazing as it just felt so light. The materials were totally bombproof and there was double reinforcement in all the high wear areas such as the base, ice axe holders and the front (where crampons can be lashed). The rest was made of a lighter weight fabric which still felt robust. I’ve treated the pack quite badly and its showing no signs of damage at all. There was plenty of bar tacking in all the high stress areas that were neatly hidden away inside the pack. The pack was showerproof, except the lid (more later) and it kept kit dry enough.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/nozone-clip.jpg?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/nozone-clip.jpg)A wand pocket, enough to stuff a hat and gloves. When I received the pack I let out a whoop of joy – wand pockets! Only to find that there was only one, and small it was too. The website photos show the wand pocket with a snow probe in it, OK you may need it for that occasionally but I couldn’t get two hiking poles in it – a much more frequent use. I could get my clip stick in comfortably and easily stash wrappers, light gloves, buff, hat or an ultralight windproof.

The compression straps worked easily and were made of 12mm webbing. Both of them had clip buckle fastening, which was handy for stashing stuff onto the side that I needed quickly. You could also stash tent outers, sleeping mats, etc if you were loading it up. The top strap incorporated the ice axe holder, so instead of putting the axe through a loop and attaching it though an elasticated loop. You push the shaft of the axe through the loop in the compression strap, place the pick in the sleeve at the bottom. Clip the bottom compression strap and tighten both compression straps and you’re good to go – the whole system relies on you remembering to tighten up the compression straps. If you don’t you’re in real danger of losing your axe.

The whole system works beautifully with a classic Piolet, and it worked fine with my BD Vipers. But anything that has funky triggers and palm rests or radical curves it may be a little faffy.

The lid was easily detachable with just a couple of clip buckles. It floated and was connected to the main body with two 10mm webbing straps. These were very slippery and I found that if I forgot to keep the lid in place using the stainless steel hook in the middle of the lid it quickly became floppy and loose. When I had the pack loaded enough to need the float it again became loose. I am assuming this will only be annoying until the straps wear enough to develop some friction. But it’s annoying enough for now. The closure was on top of the pack, I can see this being a good idea for easy access, but the zip did leak water when it rained. The key fob was situated in the front and I felt could have been a little larger, I could only just get my whistle, tat knife and car keys on it and getting keys off was faffy at the end of a long day out. The lid was well shape though and had great volume. You easily get two pairs of gloves, two hats, wallet, phone etc. Load it up as much as you like it could take it.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/nozone-alps1-0.png?w=168&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/nozone-alps1-0.png)The ultimate Alpine pack? The pack closed with a neat one handed system that had over sized, webbed grabs, very glove friendly. The closures were curiously offset to the right and worked really well for me – but I’m right handed. I was climbing a big multipitch route with a mate who is left handed and he found it a nightmare, especially when the pack was clipped into the belay. I couldn’t see any real advantage to having the closure that way. All the packs I’ve used and tested had closures in the middle and have worked perfectly well, the oversized pull tabs were great though, a great feature. The 6mm micro daisy chains were bar tacked onto the main body in a tapered configuration. The pack came with enough shockcord to thread through and this together with the reinforcement in the body provided a secure crampon attachment. The chains were plenty big enough to clip carabiners into.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/nozone-35-packed-for-winter.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/09/nozone-35-packed-for-winter.jpg)Easily packs a full day of winter kit. So, a great lightweight pack that would be suitable for all your mountain adventures from sport climbing to Alpine Expeditions. Is it the perfect pack? I’m afraid the answer is no, there were several minor niggles and we don’t buy Arc’teryx for minor niggles we buy it for perfection. Still it’s a beautiful pack and extremely comfortable, you can load it to the max and will easily swallow up all your kit. It weighs next to nothing and for climbing in it’s a dream, certainly a contender for the best Alpine and winter pack on market at the moment.

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Title: Kendal Mountain Festival, 15th to 18th November 2012 – Climbing Gear Reviews Preview
Post by: comPiler on October 23, 2012, 07:00:12 pm
Kendal Mountain Festival, 15th to 18th November 2012 – Climbing Gear Reviews Preview (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2012/10/23/kendal-mountain-festival-15th-to-18th-november-2012-climbing-gear-reviews-preview/)
23 October 2012, 2:52 pm

It’s almost that time again, Kendal Mountain Festival 2012 will soon be upon us! So what feast of climbing and outdoor fun does this year’s spectacle have in store? Variety appears to be the answer… (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/kmf-no-date-logo_1.jpg?w=196&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/kmf-no-date-logo_1.jpg)

The ‘nearly final’ line-up for this November’s Kendal Mountain Festival (http://www.mountainfest.co.uk/) has been revealed and it seems there’s more variety than ever this year.

Adding to speakers already announced – Fred Beckey, Ines Papert, Liv Sansoz, Paul Rose, Robert Jasper, Leo Houlding, Tom Randall, Pete Whittaker etc – there’s a big new list of people to get excited about. “Looks like we did it again” says Festival director Clive Allen, “We meant to scale back the live programme this year but it seems we just can’t help ourselves.”

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/ines-papert-rock-and-ice-001_1.jpg?w=512&h=341) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/ines-papert-rock-and-ice-001_1.jpg)Kendal Mountain Festival 2012 Speaker – Ines Papert, Climbing ‘Super Cirill 8a/8a+’ in Parete di Sonlerto, Val Bavone, Tessin, Switzerland. There’s the UK’s favourite ex-miner, alpinist and author Andy Cave bringing us up to date on his latest projects, including a short film from top filmmaker Alastair Lee. The UK’s most enthusiastic climber and adventurer Tim Emmett is fresh back from a climb/BASE expedition to Trango Tower and brings us the story, with contributions from Liv Sansoz who joined him on the trip. Another of Tim’s partners in adventure, ace Canadian alpinist Will Gadd, talks about his ‘Survival Strategies for High-Risk situations’ although Tim may butt in when Will gets onto their joint ascent of Helmcken Falls, billed the hardest ice route in the world.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/gadd_cp_hunlen_160209_3440.jpeg?w=512&h=766) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/gadd_cp_hunlen_160209_3440.jpeg)Kendal Mountain Festival 2012 Speaker – Will Gadd, Canadian ice and mixed climbing legend. Now we know that outdoor adventurer Karen Darke won a superb Silver in the Paralympics handcycling, a brilliant achievement, you can look forward to Karen talking about the whole Olympic experience – plus of course her amazing climbing, skiing and cycling achievements.

Mountain guide and ski-mountaineer Jim Blyth has skied every continent – as he says, “If an area is safe and has mountains and snow, it needs to be skied!” Jim talks about putting turns in where few others do, from Mongolia to Chile, Lebanon to Argentina, Iceland to Japan.

And now for something completely different. Ed Byrne, the Irish comedian (Live At The Apollo, Mock The Week, Have I Got News For You etc) is big hillwalker and general outdoor enthusiast and was keen to come to Kendal on the proviso that they found him a sensible, level-headed person to share the stage with. So they’ve teamed him up with Andy Kirkpatrick. What could possibly go wrong?

Finally for now, news that many Festival–goers will applaud is that camping will be available for the first time for both tents and camper vans – more details on the Festival website (http://www.mountainfest.co.uk/).

And it doesn’t end there…

Kendal’s Specialist Sessions focus on specific outdoor sports, bringing the best speakers and films together. This year’s Santa Cruz Bike Session stars mountain biker Steve Peat: nine times British Downhill Champion, Double European Champion, 17 World Cup wins and 52 World Cup podiums… so far. Legend.

Coming across especially from Whistler for the Snowsports Session, the ‘Godfather of free skiing’ Mike Douglas is one of the most influential people on snow. Douglas spent the first part of his career skiing moguls on the World Cup circuit before turning to the backcountry, big mountains, and now filmmaking – his much-anticipated new film Tempting Fear will see its European premiere at Kendal.

The KEEN Wild Water Session is back! An exclusive mix of the best paddlesports action, from wild river running to remote sea kayak expeditions, this year featuring top new films plus one of Ireland’s top paddlers, Adrian Durrant.

The Adidas Endurance Session promises two big draws; first, Kath Jackson and two Kendal Mountain Rescue colleagues will set out during the Session to attempt a circumnavigation of the team’s area boundary in under 24 hours, biking, running and kayaking the 175km – progress will be live tracked during the Festival. And second? Well adidas remains tight-lipped about the athlete(s) they will bring along but watch this space…

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/image.jpg?w=512&h=402) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/image.jpg)Kendal Mountain Festival 2012 – The Brownlee brothers will be speaking at the Adidas Terrex Endurance Sessions Finally the Free Flight Session features everything new and best in the world of paragliding and BASE, hosted as ever by top Lakes flier Jocky Sanderson.

Together with over 70 films in competition, art, literature, the legendary Rab Party, the Mountain Equipment Pub Quiz plus the Boardman Tasker literary prize, it promises to be another unmissable year!



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Title: Wenger Ueli Steck Special Edition Knife – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on October 23, 2012, 07:00:14 pm
Wenger Ueli Steck Special Edition Knife – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2012/10/23/wenger-ueli-steck-special-edition-knife-climbing-gear-review/)
23 October 2012, 4:12 pm

Will the Wenger Ueli Steck Special Edition Knife turn you into a “Swiss Machine”? Well maybe not, but it certainly has some useful features to help climbers, mountaineers and outdoor enthusiasts when out on the hill… Performance ****

Style*****

Value for money ***

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/ueli-steck-presentation-box.jpg?w=512&h=510) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/ueli-steck-presentation-box.jpg)The Wenger Ueli Steck Titanium Swiss Army Knife box set In the climbing world, Ueli Steck needs no introduction. The man known to many as “The Swiss Machine” is a legend. Speed solo ascents of the North Faces of the Eiger, Matterhorn and Grand Jorasses names just a few of his awe inspiring accomplishments. If the Swiss nation is already famous for it’s precision and efficiency, then Ueli has wholeheartedly embraced both within his climbing.

So,the Wenger Ueli Steck Special Edition Titanium Knife is all the quality you’d expect of a Swiss instrument. Well finished, well packaged and well thought out. Light (100g) and strong. The locking blade is ferociously sharp and just as at home slicing through abseil tat as it is through a block of Emmental cheese. Fitted into the locking 65mm partially serrated blade (50% thicker than standard blades) are 7mm, 10mm and 13mm hexagonal spanners. None of these actually fit my ice tools or crampons though so I must admit I have not used them a great deal. The blade also features a 14mm large flat screwdriver complete with safety lock and into the body slots a 1/4 inch bit adapter which comes supplied with Flat head screwdriver bit (0.6mm x 4.5mm, 50mm) and Philips head screwdriver bit (#3, 50mm), both of which I’ve found to be indispensable for tinkering jobs both on and off the hill.

Other than the blade itself, the features I’ve found most useful are the file which is great for sharpening axes and crampons on route or at a bivi, and the bottle and tin opener! The former being crucial for getting the top of those celebratory post-route bottles of Leffe!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/ueli-steck-in-use-8.jpg?w=512&h=769) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/ueli-steck-in-use-8.jpg)Ueli Steck using the Wenger Special Edition Knife Other features include a wire stripper and bender, key ring attachment which I use to clip it to my climbing harness with a micro-biner, a lightweight pouch and Titanium handles with striations. The whole package is neatly put together in a gift box and includes a North Faces Trilogy DVD documentary about Ueli’s famous speed ascents. These things are nice touches and could make it the perfect Christmas gift for your geeky climber loved ones!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/p1050809.jpg?w=512&h=288) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/p1050809.jpg)The Wenger Ueli Steck Limited Edition Knife in action on the Grand Charmoz, Chamonix, France. So to conclude, the Ueli Steck Special Edition Knife is a well thought out piece of kit and has lots of useful features for the climber, mountaineer and outdoor enthusiast. It’s not the lightest if you just want a blade for cutting tat and it’s probably not the cheapest either, but the quality and features cannot be faulted. Could be a perfect Christmas present too!

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Title: Black Diamond EXL Pack – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on October 24, 2012, 07:00:14 pm
Black Diamond EXL Pack – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2012/10/24/black-diamond-exl-pack-climbing-gear-review/)
24 October 2012, 2:12 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/blackdiamond_standrd_neg.jpg?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/blackdiamond_standrd_neg.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/681105_exl_slfr.jpg?w=224&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/681105_exl_slfr.jpg)Black Diamond EXL Pack So is the Black Diamond EXL pack the perfect rucksack for light and fast day missions? Performance ****

Style*****

Value for money ****

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/img_0223.jpg?w=512&h=384) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/img_0223.jpg)Black Diamond EXL pack being used in anger on the headwall, 20 pitches up on the Grand Charmoz, Chamonix, France Black Diamond say that: “The EXL is a highlight from the Velocity series of Black Diamond packs which are lightweight and compact multi-sport packs, designed for on-the-go trail performance, from running to biking to hiking. The EXL is a highly adaptable daypack with SwingArm (see video below for more info on SwingArm technology) shoulder straps for fast & light balance and comfort.”

I have tested the EXL pack extensively over the Summer months using it for running, cycling, hiking and Alpine rock climbing. I can vouch for both performance and adaptability. The pack has a 20 litre capacity meaning that, with careful packing, you can cram it with everything you need for a full day on the hill. I used it Alpine rock climbing and managed to fit everything I needed for both approaching and climbing a 26 pitch route on the Grand Charmoz in France.

Whatever activity I was doing I was very impressed with the way the pack felt to carry. It sits comfortably on your back, high enough so it doesn’t interfere with a climbing harness and not so high that it obstructs vision when looking up. When running it doesn’t bounce around annoyingly, the easy to adjust waist and chest straps and the SwingArm shoulder straps, seeing to this effectively.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/img_0981.jpg?w=512&h=682) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/img_0981.jpg)Black Diamond EXL pack, perfect for extended trail runs. Used here at Montenvers, Chamonix, France. In terms of features, the EXL has lots for such a small pack:

I found the open air back panel breathed fairly well when I was exerting myself and didn’t get too sweaty. The zippered panel access was easy to use and the zipper worked smoothly. The tabs were easy to handle, even wearing gloves. I really like the fabric Black Diamond have used to create the stretch pockets. The side wand and zipped pocket were great for stashing snacks and gels and the front pocket swallowed a jacket and pants, secured with drawcord compressor, but still handy enough to grab whilst on the move.

An internal mesh pocket, with key clip, was handy for storing valuables and the external zippered pocket was large enough to take a topo, small first aid kit, compass and other essentials. The hydration pocket is neat and very easy to use and seemed to minimise any bouncing around inside the pack. A neat clip on the shoulder starp secures the tube externally. Other nice touches are a bike light slot (great for night time rides and runs) and a retractable trekking pole/ice axe loop which I used for both and found effective.

With a weight of 700g it’s definitely not the lightest pack in it’s class but I found it carried so well that I was choosing it for my extended fell runs, over another smaller lighter pack that I’d had for the same job. Quality seems to be excellent as we’ve come to expect from Black Diamond. And the fabrics are holding up well to abrasion.

So to conclude, the EXL pack is a brilliantly versatile, well featured day sack for all your light and fast missions from running, to Alpine rock. It would make a great little pack for day ski missions too. I like the stretchy external pockets, ease of carry and well thought out interior. If I could add anything, I’d take away some of the weight but then that is something I’d say for a lot of kit! Top notch stuff from Black Diamond!



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Title: New Patagonia Calpilene 4 2012/13 range – Gear News.
Post by: comPiler on October 27, 2012, 01:00:23 pm
New Patagonia Calpilene 4 2012/13 range – Gear News. (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2012/10/27/new-patagonia-calpilene-4-201213-range-gear-news/)
27 October 2012, 7:53 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/patagonia-calpilene-4-hoody.jpg?w=640&h=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/patagonia-calpilene-4-hoody.jpg)

Capilene® 4 Expedition Weight products will now utilize Polartec® Power Dry® High Efficiency™ fabrics starting with the Autumn/Winter 2012 season. By exaggerating the gaps between pillars on the back of the fabric, the breathability of the fabric is enhanced, as is the compressibility and warmth-to-weight ratio. The new Capilene 4 Expedition Weight (http://www.patagonia.com/eu/enFR/product/mens-capilene-baselayer-4-expedition-weight-baselayer-quarter-zip-hoody?p=43665-0-419) is light enough to wear very comfortably next to skin, warmer than expected based on weight, and like all Polartec Power Dry fabrics, it utilizes a bi-component construction designed to pull moisture in one direction – away from the body – and then disperse it to the surface for quick drying performance. The new fabric is 91% polyester/9% spandex, with great stretch and recovery.

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Title: Blog: A week in the Alps – Goulotte Profit-Perroux, Beyond Good and Evil, Pinocchio – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on November 06, 2012, 12:00:37 am
Blog: A week in the Alps – Goulotte Profit-Perroux, Beyond Good and Evil, Pinocchio – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2012/11/05/blog-a-week-in-the-alps-goulotte-profit-perroux-beyond-good-and-evil-pinocchio-climbing-gear-review/)
5 November 2012, 9:49 pm

Just back from a week of icy mixed climbing action in Chamonix with the Beast… (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/p1060067.jpg?w=512&h=288) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/p1060067.jpg)Early morning heading down the Midi Arete Friday…2.30pm…leaving work sharpish…driving at pace through the night…Bradford-Dover-Brussels-Luxembourg…stopping…snoozing…not sleeping…

Off again…caffeine…driven by the psyche, the desire to escape. Into Switzerland. Driven by the routes we’d heard about, conditions we’d heard about or conditions we’d made up in our own desperate minds…driven by weather forecasts we wished to be better than they probably would be…

Into Switzerland…snow dumping down now, wet clag…not crisp sun-drenched settledness. The Eiger obsession looking limp like the leaves, sodden and snow-drenched. The car pulled in, heads turned, caffeined, nodded, decided…

Into France to Chamonix. Gleaming goulottes, gorgeous granite, perfect lines. Three days of decent weather from Monday the man said…

But what about Sunday? What about time? What about wasting time? I didn’t want to spend a day going brain dead. Snell Sports…some coffee, a bar, another shop, coffee, pastries, draining away our motivation with each slow step.

Saturday night we arrived. Some pizza, a beer and Belevedere Argentiere for bed. Sunday morning the bleep bleep of the Beast’s watch wakes me…normally I find it tricky to get up…but not this morning. Too psyched we step outside to a thick carpet of constantly falling snow. We defrost the car and drive. Not a sole appears to stir except us. And with good reason. The clocks had gone back!

Goulotte Profit-Perroux III 4 M5, 220m (plus the finish up the Cosmiques Arete) Aiguille du Midi, Chamonix

We did this on Sunday. Usual scene, arriving at the Midi station only to find out it wasn’t running. More info at 10am! We retired for coffee and pain of chocolate. Then returned.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/img_1446.jpg?w=512&h=682) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/img_1446.jpg)Easy access alpinism, abseiling into the Cunningham Couloir for Goulotte Profit-Perroux 11am it opened. We went for it. Nobody else did. Gear on in the lift. Time was short. The route short but maybe not short enough. Out at the top and round the barrier on the bridge, the temperature and thin air took away our breath. Fingers numbed. We abseiled down. Down, down into the Cunningham Couloir. No guidebook, just a vague notion of 5 abseils. The couloir was carpeted in thick fresh snow. We found the start and started. The Beast led off being beast-like. Easy does it, at the belay. I follow, fingers numb. I stop, nearly barfing with the barfies. I set off and motor on, fingers numb once more. I haul the rope through the plate, once again the barfies come…agony, I think I may cry.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/p1050978.jpg?w=512&h=682) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/p1050978.jpg)Manbeast on pitch 3, Goulotte Profit-Perroux, Aiguille du Midi  Pitch 3 and things get a little trickier. A short goulotte, maybe 85 degrees. The Beast walks past it not noticing. I dry my tears and follow. Fingers numb again. Pitch 4, mixed about M5. Safe, positive, good hooks and great gear. I belay screaming…more barfies…not ideal. The Beast arrives, looks at me with disgust, and then leaves. We hit the ridge. Time to spare but not loads. We move together past the Cosmique’s crux…deep soft snow, slowing progress…lungs feeling the thinness of the air. Unacclimatized.

Three and half hours after starting we finish. The last bin made but not with time to spare. We ride down. Good day. Good route. Good warm up.

Feeling smug we reflected on cutting it fine and thought about tomorrow.

 

Beyond Good and Evil (CR finish), 500m North Face of the Pelerins, Chamonix

Monday morning and another not lie in. Breakfast French-stylie and a late Midi lift. 9am they decided to start today though. Off at the Midi Plan we started up the track. A line of footprints already in through the fresh snow. We weaved through the boulders, up to and past the Peigne. Stumbling at times, staggering upwards. The line came into view, glinting and gleaming, draped down the granite. Perfectly pristine. We geared up and swam over to the start. Leaving our sacks and taking a lightweight second’s pack.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/p1050995.jpg?w=512&h=384) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/p1050995.jpg)Heading up to Beyond Good and Evil, North Face of the Pelerins, Chamonix The Beast led off up thinly iced slabs. 20 feet up he climbed down. False start but hopefully not false hope. Up he went again. Thin. Delicate. Potentially dangerous. Then he found the key. He dug out a crack. The game was on. Spindrift dumped down heavy threatening to knock him off. Delicately he soldiered on. I followed, finger ends numb from the previous day. We found our rhythm, steady, not mechanical, delicate. Pitch after pitch of sublime goulotte, ribbons of ice like frozen tears down the granite grains. Never desperate but never safe.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/p1060005.jpg?w=512&h=288) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/p1060005.jpg)

We hit the corner, crux of the lower part. It reared up, steep and thin. Twight aided this on the first ascent. Insufficient ice. It looked like we may have to too. An inch or two thick, a layer of ice, cruddy snow and steep. Hopefully not an impasse. Hopefully not emotional. We carried on in our trance.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/p1060028.jpg?w=512&h=788) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/p1060028.jpg)Me on the 5c corner, Beyond Good and Evil, North Face of the Pelerins, Chamonix After the junction we opted for the Carrington. Beyond Good but not quite Evil. We hit the top and started to rap. Down, downwards, descending to our packs. The rhythm of the up maintained. We packed and continued down, stopping only briefly to chat to a couple of French climbers, the route’s potential suitors tomorrow. A glint in their eyes, mirroring the glint in ours.

Tedious trotting and we arrive back in Chamonix, just shy of 10pm. Food and beer, but not in that order. Satisfied but dissatisfied. Good but not quite evil.

 

Pinocchio IV 6+, 450m, East Face of Mt Blanc du Tacul, Chamonix

 

After Monday, Tuesday allowed a brief lie in. We packed and headed high late afternoon. The Cosmiques winter room was a plan. The Midi gallery became the reality. A room with a view but not to be advertised (apparently).

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/p1060046.jpg?w=512&h=288) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/p1060046.jpg)A room with a view on Tuesday night. Aiguille du Midi, Chamonix The East face of Mt Blanc du Tacul is home to many a classic icy mixed line. Some hard and some not so hard. Stevie Haston is a legend. So is Robert Jasper. They’ve both contributed here. Scotch on the Rocks, Vol de Nuit…both hard classics. And Stevie’s other route, Pinocchio…a climb I’d wanted for a while.

Wednesday morning we got up early. A beautifully bruised sky, cold and still but far from settled. We hot footed it round and started. Steady snow and easy mixed for the first 2 pitches. I followed pitch 2.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/p1060068.jpg?w=512&h=288) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/p1060068.jpg)A sedate start in the sun. Manbeast following. Pitch 2, Pinocchio, Mt Blanc du Tacul East Face, Chamonix We swapped and I set off. Pitch 3, my bag apparently. Techy mixed ground. About Scottish 7. Some useful ice and some not so useful crud. Progress was steady…but not startling. I edged upwards to a small roof split by an awkward crack on either side. An overhanging plug of snow threatened to push me out of balance, topple me from above. I cleared it, calmed myself and found some ok runners in the left-hand crack. A couple of false starts and I discovered the order necessary to breach the awkwardness. Feet clearing the roof, crampons on precarious granite edges, the crux. A couple of deep breaths, far out now. A crap runner and forge on. At the belay.

 

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/img_1474.jpg?w=512&h=384) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/img_1474.jpg)Manbeast following the first hard pitch. Pinocchio pitch 3, Mt Blanc du Tacul East Face, Chamonix Beast seconds cold and goes for pitch 4. Innocuously it starts and weaves out of sight. He’s steady, the route kinks up left and he stops. Fiddling in the corner, finding some satisfactory safety. Another roof, this time breached by a thin smear of steep ice. Beast territory, he inches upwards. Calm, steady and solid. Although not the ice or the weather.

It snows hard now. Blue sky is gone. In fact it appears to be snowing upwards. Plastering the rock. The wind nips partially exposed skin and spindrift threatens to suffocate our safety as well as our sanity. I second up and lead through. More thin goulotte climbing, at times the spindrift threatens to knock us from our teetering perches but we inch onwards and upwards. Icy mixed ground to the top of the Pilier Martinetti. We rap the route. Downward momentum exacerbated by the thundering spindrift plumes. Stevie tuts mockingly. He’d probably ski shit steeper than this. And in worse weather.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/p1060077.jpg?w=512&h=288) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/p1060077.jpg)On the descent…weather now pretty wild…route in the bag! Pinocchio, East Face Mt Blanc du Tacul, Chamonix We hit the schrund, sacks are buried, tracks are gone, wind is high, slopes are loading. We pack and stay roped up against the threat of the hell-holes. The wind rises, howls and nips. We post-hole back across the Vallee Blanche, a slog, even to the fit and acclimatized super heroes that are not us. We have time to spare…we think. The wind howls wilder. And finally we hit the Midi arete. Two figures stumble towards us from the Midi Plan ridge. Jon Bracey and his client, fresh from Fil a Plomb. Perhaps we should all know better we joke.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/p1060084.jpg?w=512&h=288) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/p1060084.jpg)Heading back to the Aiguille du Midi after Pinocchio, wild weather, Chamonix The Beast finally shows signs of weakness. His face starting to go white with wind chill. We stop and cover up then stagger on against the tempest. A voice in the distance, barely real, barely audible.”Allez, allez!” I hear it now, the lift station staff encourage us on. Five minutes to 4. Time to spare.

We hit the tunnel and are hurried along…high winds, lift closing early…time to not spare.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/img_1481.jpg?w=512&h=384) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/img_1481.jpg)Victory. MBC bar, Chamonix Back in Chamonix we drink more beer, eat more food and feel more satisfied. The weather window has closed but 5 days, 3 awesome routes and high psyche leave us howling mad for more. It is Halloween after all! The next morning we attempt one final early lift and the Vent du Dragon. But today they close, the wind too ferocious.

 

We head down the valley. Le Fayet, drytooling…winter training…minds already fixed firmly on objectives back home…

Kevin Avery

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Title: Patagonia Present ‘Wide Boyz’ with Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker – Climbing Gear News
Post by: comPiler on November 19, 2012, 06:00:11 pm
Patagonia Present ‘Wide Boyz’ with Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker – Climbing Gear News (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2012/11/19/patagonia-present-wide-boyz-with-tom-randall-and-pete-whittaker-climbing-gear-news/)
19 November 2012, 1:13 pm

The Patagonia Covent Garden store is planning to host a film preview evening on 28th Nov to showcase the climbing film ‘Wide Boyz’ to the public.

The film covers a climbing journey of Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker, both of whom will be present at the preview and all attendees will receive complimentary food and drinks, plus a 20% discount on all product in the store on the evening.   

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/wideboyz-v212.jpg?w=640&h=904) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/wideboyz-v212.jpg)

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Title: Adidas TERREX Fast X FM Mid Boot – Climbing Gear News
Post by: comPiler on November 21, 2012, 12:00:09 pm
Adidas TERREX Fast X FM Mid Boot – Climbing Gear News (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2012/11/21/adidas-terrex-fast-x-fm-mid-boot-climbing-gear-news/)
21 November 2012, 9:32 am

Take a look at the award winning ‘fast and light’ boot from Adidas – a great looking lightweight approach  boot.

 

 

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Title: Arc’teryx Zenta LT Glove – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on November 26, 2012, 12:00:11 pm
Arc’teryx Zenta LT Glove – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2012/11/26/arcteryx-zenta-lt-glove-climbing-gear-review/)
26 November 2012, 10:20 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx1.jpg?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx1.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/44175-color-accessories_damascussteel_image.jpg?w=300&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/44175-color-accessories_damascussteel_image.jpg)Arc’teryx Venta LT glove The Zenta LT glove is what Arc’teryx call a: “Waterproof, breathable, low profile glove. Ideal for high-output activities in cold conditions.” So, how was it for me? Performance ****

Style*****

Value for money ****

Price: £115

I generally get cold hands (and feet) so I’m always interested in testing out gloves to try and find the right combination of warmth, dexterity and durability. I’ve used the Zenta LT for a lot of different things. Scottish winter climbing, alpine climbing/mountaineering, ice-fall climbing and Scottish and alpine skiing.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/p1060086.jpg?w=512&h=683) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/p1060086.jpg)Wearing the Arc’teryx Zenta LT gloves whilst heading across the glacier from Mt Blanc du Tacul East Face, in rapidly deteriorating weather and low temperatures. The first thing I’d say about them is that they’re warm. I’ve used the Zenta LT’s in temps down to minus 18 Centigrade and I generally don’t get cold hands in these if I’m moving. In fact I actually find them too warm in Spring through to Autumn (weather extremes dependent of course) and for really high output stuff like skinning uphill on skis or easy mountaineering ground where I’m moving quick. That said, I’m more than glad of them when stood around belaying in the cold on north faces or Scottish mixed horrors in late Autumn to early Spring. And they’re great on ground up to alpine D grade, or if there’s lots of fresh snow and you’re plunging your hands into it or clearing.

The gloves are insulated with a brushed fleece (unlike the Zenta AR (http://www.arcteryx.com/Product.aspx?EN/Mens/Gloves/Zenta-AR-Glove) which uses 200g of Primaloft) and this is very warm and cosy on the hands whilst being low profile enough to maintain reasonable dexterity. It also wicks moisture away from the hands and through the Gore-tex XCR liner and outer fabric, quite effectively. Moving on to the outer fabric I have to say that the Zenta LT gloves are tough! The Burly™ double weave (50% nylon, 43% polyester, 7% spandex, 275 g/m². A hard-wearing, durable, stretch woven fabric with a smooth outer face and a soft inner face that is comfortable next to the skin) is proving to be pretty indestructible, even after many rounds with Cairngorm and alpine granite, and the Lezanova leather palm and fingers, are totally bombproof!

I think one key thing that adds to the durability of these gloves (and also warrants the hefty £115 price tag) is that Arc’teryx have not scrimped on the leather. The palm is fully covered and the finger tips are seamless and wrapped. Whilst also maximising dexterity so you can climb, ski or faff with taking skins on and off or place protection, the Zentas are tough and don’t fall apart as soon as you scrape a bit of snow off a ledge.

The following video talks about the Arc’teryx design philosophy for their glove range. It relates to the Alpha SV glove but many of the key principles here apply to the Zenta or any of their other gloves.

Ok then, so the Zenta LT is a warm glove, it’s well made, fairly dexterous and waterproof. It’s also durable. So, what is the fit like?

When Arc’teryx first brought out their glove range a LOT was made of the fit and how good it was and how it was superior to many other brands. Well, I’ve already talked about the seamless finger tips for increased dexterity and the stretchy outer fabric delivering super mobility and flexibility in the hand and cuff area. But if you hold up an Arc’teryx Zenta LT glove (or any of their technical gloves) what do you notice? What you should notice is that it’s anatomically shaped (shaped like your hand!), lie it on it’s back and it doesn’t lie flat. The fingers and thumb are pre-curved, like the natural position your hand sits in whilst relaxed. A lot of thought has been put into this and when you try a pair on, you can really tell! There is no excess fabric, or floppy thumbs. Or even baggy palms or wrist areas.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/p1060038.jpg?w=512&h=910) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/p1060038.jpg)The Arc’teryx Zenta LT glove sorting gear at the bottom of the North Face of the Pelerins, Chamonix. A long day out on Beyond Good and Evil, but warm and dry hands. Note short, slim cuff worn over outer layer. It works just as well under the cuff too. So what else can I say about the Zenta LT?

The Gore-tex XCR liner has kept the glove (and more importantly my hands), dry for the duration of the time I have used them. The only time I get damp hands, and this is inevitable) is during high output activities such as slogging up a non technical peak or skinning on skis or leading a more difficult pitch pitch. And I would normally wear a lighter glove such as the Venta SV for these activities anyway, unless it was really cold . One down-side for me (and it’s really a suitability issue relating to what I just said) is that I don’t find the Zenta LT dexterous enough for my liking when leading steep and technical ice and mixed ground. However I do find them absolutely perfect for general mountaineering, belaying and skiing. And this just proves that it’s really pretty much impossible to find one glove that is perfect for everything. The Zenta LT does come close though.

The Zenta LT is not a gauntlet glove. It has a slim fitting cuff to reduce layering bulk and I found this worked best layered under my jacket cuff, rather than over. It does work the other way too, but I found that with these gloves it was tricky to get it to stay one way or another and if you want full storm protection you’d be better with the Zenta AR gauntlet. To strike a compromise I found that wearing a baselayer with thumb loops, then any potential cold spots in the wrist area could be alleviated.

A couple of nice features that I’d like to mention to finish off are the leather tabs on the wrists to help with getting them on. You can also attach bungee retainers to these to stop you dropping them. The karabiner loops on the finger ends are also a useful touch and mean that you can clip the gloves to your harness, upside down and hopefully they won’t fill up with snow when you’re climbing!

Conclusion

The Zenta LT is a great all round waterproof and breathable mountain glove, perfect for skiing, mountaineering and climbing. It is dexterous but perhaps not quite dexterous enough for harder technical leads. It is well made and fits superbly. The shorter cuff may put some people off, but then go for the Zenta AR instead. Not the perfect glove, but not far off. Worth the £115 price tag for fit and quality alone. Nice job Arc’teryx!

Reviewed by Kevin Avery



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Title: JON WALSH TO RECEIVE THIS YEARS “GUY LACELLE AWARD” – Climbing News
Post by: comPiler on November 27, 2012, 12:00:11 pm
JON WALSH TO RECEIVE THIS YEARS “GUY LACELLE AWARD” – Climbing News (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2012/11/27/jon-walsh-to-receive-this-years-guy-lacelle-award-climbing-news/)
27 November 2012, 10:50 am

Jon Walsh to receive this year’s Guy Lacelle Award (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/jon-walsh-01.jpg?w=200&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/jon-walsh-01.jpg)Jon Walsh – winner of this year’s Guy Lacelle Award Arcteryx Equipment is honoured to announce that this year’s recipient of the Guy Lacelle Pure Spirit Award goes to Jon Walsh.

In December 2009, Canadian climbing lost one of its finest souls when Guy Lacelle died in an avalanche in Montana. Since then, three of Guy’s sponsors — Arc’teryx (http://www.arcteryx.com/?EN), Petzl (http://www.petzl.com/en/home) and La Sportiva (http://www.sportiva.com/) have teamed up to continue to honour Guy’s memory through the Guy Lacelle Pure Spirit Award. This award is given each year to a Canadian climber who embodies Guy’s path, combining world-class talent with humility, grace and a fierce commitment to the right way to climb.

This year’s recipient has all these characteristics in spades: in the last decade, Calgary’s Jon Walsh has compiled a stunning résumé, with major ascents, including many firsts, in Canada and around the world. Jon has been one of those climbers who has been shining just below the horizon, quietly involved in some of the cutting-edge climbs on the world stage, especially in the alpine, where he’s put up new routes in the Bugaboos, on Robson, in Greenland, in Patagonia, and in the Himalaya.

Jon was overjoyed when he got news of the award, and said, “I’m lucky to be surrounded by so much climbing spirit, and I believe that Guy and many of his partners are largely responsible for building that foundation in our community.  Guy’s psyche, modesty, and blissful approach had a strong influence on me, and his achievements are incredibly inspiring.  I’m deeply humbled and honoured that the award committee feels I share a similar attitude and values.”

Thanks to the generous commitments of all the sponsors, Jon will receive an award of gear equivalent to the amount that Guy would have been given in a year. Previous award winners were Eamonn Walsh of Canmore, and Quebec’s PeeWee Ouelette.

Watch this video which pays tribute to the life of Guy Lacelle

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Title: Yorkshire Gritstone Guide – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on December 02, 2012, 12:01:00 pm
Yorkshire Gritstone Guide – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2012/12/02/yorkshire-gritstone-guide-climbing-gear-review/)
2 December 2012, 9:01 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/yorkshire-gritstone-volume-1.png?w=210&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2012/12/02/yorkshire-gritstone-guide-climbing-gear-review/yorkshire-gritstone-volume-1/) Dave Sarkar, local Yorkshire climber takes a look at the new 2012 Yorkshire Gritstone Guide. Quality ***

Content*****

Value***

I’ve been living and climbing in Yorkshire for over 20 years now and this is the first YMC guide that I have not been involved in. I’m still smarting from my mate Matt Edwards beating to the front cover of the 1989 guide. That was the ascent after me, still I’m not bitter.

The new guide is a bumper edition that will be split into two volumes. This volume Almscliffe to Slipstones covering the Central and Eastern half of the county with Volume 2 Ilkley to Widdop due out in 2013 covering the West.

It’s very weighty so I’ll be trying to persuade friends to carry it up to more remote crags like Simons Seat but I’ll be satisfied that it’s comprehensive and will contain every route in detail when I get there.

The photographs of the routes, crags and action are all very good. I’ve looked very hard and I’m not in it! Better luck with Volume 2. There’s a great combination of modern and historical shots to really fire up your psyche. I really have enjoyed looking at the photographs and the route ones are a great improvement on the hand drawn diagrams as they show so much more detail.  The old hand drawn crag shots were a fantastic labour of love that is dying out as we get busier and busier. I particularly like the aerial shots of the crags to help you get your bearings.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/yorkshire-grit-guide-sample-page.png?w=300&h=177) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2012/12/02/yorkshire-gritstone-guide-climbing-gear-review/yorkshire-grit-guide-sample-page/)

Almscliffe (know locally as The Cliff) is my local stomping ground so I am very familiar with its intricacies. How astonished I was to find routes of my grade I hadn’t done! Praise indeed. I couldn’t find any faults with the grades or descriptions and thankfully little in the way of grade inflation. I still climb with folk that think that nothing can be harder Yorkshire VS.  I loved the Alan Austin profile – I’ve even got a jumper like that. I think I’ll start wearing it at the crag. There are plenty of local star profiles they are a great read, some brilliant Seventies shots.

Like the last guide bouldering is included and the grades are Font grades, there is substantially more bouldering in this guide that the previous. This is why it is such a large volume but I feel that it detracts from the routes. Yorkshire is well serviced for bouldering guides.

All the climbing areas are covered in detail as you would expect from a comprehensive guide, even the more esoteric crags (which are mentioned in the main crag sections). There is a graded list for each crag and a comprehensive graded list of all the main routes at the back. All the crags are listed in areas and not alphabetically which aids location. I really did like the addition of GPS co-ordinates in the access sections, which were very detailed.

So the short read is:

I love the photos, historical sections, access descriptions and all sorts of witty Yorkshire banter. I love the fact that it’s written by non-profit Climbing Club volunteers that deserve to be supported.

I don’t like the weight, it’s flippin’ heavy.  The very flimsy cover which will last no time at all before falling off and the addition of the bouldering. God is not pointing at Almscliff and we all know God made it especially for Yorkshire climbers and cows in the winter.

There’s a wealth of beautiful climbing in Yorkshire and there’s  something for everyone in this great addition to the YMC stable. It would be suitable for the holiday tourist and local alike. Well done everyone you’ve done a great job keeping the faith.

RRP £24.00

Buy from Cordee: http://bit.ly/TAYlOA (http://www.cordee.co.uk/Yorkshire-Gritstone-Volume-1---Almscliff-to-Slipstones-det-0-0-0-9800.html)

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Title: Winter Climbing Conditions 1/2 December 2012, Coire an Lochain, Cairngorms, Scotland – Winter Climbing Conditions Report
Post by: comPiler on December 03, 2012, 06:00:10 pm
Winter Climbing Conditions 1/2 December 2012, Coire an Lochain, Cairngorms, Scotland – Winter Climbing Conditions Report (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2012/12/03/winter-climbing-conditions-12-december-2012-coire-an-lochain-cairngorms-scotland-winter-climbing-conditions-report/)
3 December 2012, 4:32 pm

This is the first of the winter climbing conditions reports that we are going to post for the 2012/13 winter season. (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/p1060253.jpg?w=168&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2012/12/03/winter-climbing-conditions-12-december-2012-coire-an-lochain-cairngorms-scotland-winter-climbing-conditions-report/p1060253/)Coire an Lochain, Cairngorms, 2/12/2012

Climbers on Savage Slit and Fallout Corner On Saturday 1st and Sunday 2nd December we climbed up in Coire an Lochain, Cairngorm. The weather was poor on Saturday with a brisk wind and as a substantial amount of snow had fallen the approach in 20m visibility, post-holing up to our thighs at times, meant despite an early start, we didn’t get a particularly early start on the climb! The routes in Lochain (when you could see them) were absolutely plastered making things quite slow going, and definitely NOT easy early season nick (http://s0.wp.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_sad.gif)  Placements for tools and gear having to be excavated from under the rime. Teams were climbing on Auricle, Ventricle, Savage Slit and Milky Way.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/p1060254.jpg?w=300&h=168) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2012/12/03/winter-climbing-conditions-12-december-2012-coire-an-lochain-cairngorms-scotland-winter-climbing-conditions-report/p1060254/)Coire an Lochain, Cairngorms, 2/12/2012

Some impressive rime. Be prepared to dig for victory!!! Sunday was a beautifully calm, blue sky day. The approach felt much more straight forward and there was a nice track in to follow. The routes were just as plastered though unless you did something that people had climbed the day before. On Sunday there were teams on Auricle, Overseer Direct, Savage Slit, Fallout Corner, Oesophagus and Western Route.

 

Cairngorm ski area (http://www.cairngormmountain.org/) was open for it’s first weekend of the season and conditions looked awesome on Sunday. There was also great cover for ski touring.

Remember to be aware of avalanche risk and check the up to date SAIS avalanche blog and avalanche forecasts (http://www.sais.gov.uk/)

The MWIS give up to date mountain weather forecasts (http://www.mwis.org.uk/) for all UK mountain areas

For those of you on Twitter (https://twitter.com/ScotWinter) remember to #tag your Scottish winter conditions tweets tweets with #scotwinter and follow @scotwinter (https://twitter.com/ScotWinter)

So, all in all a positive start to the winter campaign and hopefully the cold weather will last so we can get out again soon. Here’s to a good winter season!

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Title: Watch one of the world’s top solo aid climbers, Silvia Vidal in action – Climbing Gear News
Post by: comPiler on December 04, 2012, 12:00:12 pm
Watch one of the world’s top solo aid climbers, Silvia Vidal in action – Climbing Gear News (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2012/12/04/watch-one-of-the-worlds-top-solo-aid-climbers-silvia-vidal-in-action-climbing-gear-news/)
4 December 2012, 10:35 am

Watch one of the world’s top solo aid climbers, Silvia Vidal in action in this video from Boreal (http://www.e-boreal.com/ing/comienzo.htm)  

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Title: Osprey Flap Jack Courier – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on December 08, 2012, 06:00:09 pm
Osprey Flap Jack Courier – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2012/12/08/osprey-flap-jack-courier-climbing-gear-review/)
8 December 2012, 12:59 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/09/osprey-logo.jpg?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/09/07/osprey-mutant-28-pack-lightweight-rucksack-gear-news/osprey-logo/)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/10/flap-jack-courier-black-low-res.jpg?w=384&h=577) (http://www.ospreypacks.com/en/product/performance/flap_jack_courier__updated)Take a little adventure with you every day! Performance ***** Style***** Value for Money ***** Sometimes I just want a little bit of adventure to take with me everyday. Now I’m not one for walking down the main street of Keswick or Chamonix in full climbing mode – although I have seen that in Cham and I daresay we’ll get a comment from some-one who’s seen it in Keswick or Fort William!

But there are a myriad of small ways that I can remind myself why I work and retain that sense of climbing perspective. One way is to add climbing brands to my everyday living and that’s a great way to keep the adventure dream alive and kicking. You can do this by dressing in the casual clothing range of your favourite brand, wearing watches and of course catching up on your favourite gear review site on your tablet device while commuting.

My job often involves wearing a business suit, I can be teaching one day; delivering staff training another and travelling to conferences and meetings on others so I was happy to accept a review of a bag that would help me with my everyday business activities and remind me of the dreams I’m saving for.

Osprey are a Californian specialist pack maker, their focus is 100% on packs. This means that they can concentrate on being the best. I own and use a Talon 33 for my everyday hiking, I’ve had it years and it’s brilliant. Can they bring the same comfort and build quality to their Courier products?

The Flap Jack is the male specific  version of the courier. It comes in 4 colours and has been updated for 2012. The women’s version is called the Flap Jill and comes with additional styling, female colours and a Mini version.

The bag arrived in black and came with a selection of web straps to customize the bag. I chose the green ones to go with the overall colour scheme. The black looked more like deep charcoal grey than true black and I quite liked that. It had a slightly tapered style and the buckles were well positioned which made opening and closing the bag was easy. It looked a little more styled than a dedicated messenger bag.

When closed the bag had plenty of reflective hints and a tab to put a rear light for those who commute by bike. It had a large Velcro patch which made closing it simple and the Osprey decal was also reflective. This meant there was plenty of reflective area for those dark winter nights and I was easy to spot in car headlights.

There was a large zipped storage pack on the front which I was reluctant to use. Especially on train/tube commutes as I felt it wasn’t secure. I would have rather have had the storage on the back of the bag so that valuable could be kept out of sight of pickpockets. There was also a handy side pocket for keeping food, hats, gloves and even a small umbrella/ lightweight shell.

The build quality was excellent and the all important CGR stitch count high. The attention to detail was very good with bar tacking on all flash points – including the interior connections to the shoulder strap. I couldn’t access the carry handle so can’t verify any bar tacking there but the interior carry handle was bar tacked. The interior piping was also well stitched. So the bag had a high quality and robust feel to it. The body material was 900D so again the bag had a solid, robust feel to it.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/flapjack2.jpg?w=300&h=225) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2012/12/08/osprey-flap-jack-courier-climbing-gear-review/flapjack2/)Interior pockets were easily big enough for ipods. The shoulder strap was 50mm high strength webbing and was adjustable with a branded, injection moulded lever lock. I found the lock protruded a little and got caught on occasion which became annoying. This seemed to happen particularly when I was rushing about in busy train stations – Sod’s Law in full play. The shoulder strap had a branded, ergonomically shaped pad; this was very comfortable on both the left and right shoulder. Grip was provided with an Osprey rubber/silicon decal. I thought this looked very flimsy and wouldn’t last long but it has lasted quite a while now even though I suspect that if I was using the bag for a bike commute it wouldn’t last much longer. There was also a waist strap for bike commuting, it was easily removed.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/flapjack3.jpg?w=300&h=225) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2012/12/08/osprey-flap-jack-courier-climbing-gear-review/flapjack3/)The rubberised lettering provided good grip There was plenty of interior storage space. It had a lovely green colour and six compartments to store a variety of stuff inside. On training events I could easily store my laptop, cables, notes and a whole plethora of bits and bobs I need to present and pitch. On general work days I could easily fit my tablet computer, lunch, cables and brolly and even some basic bouldering kit if I was popping into the climbing wall.

The front pocket held a key fob, my ID tags and other smaller items. The medium pocket held a vast array of pens, board markers, cameras and other larger items. There was a dedicated MP3 player pocket that easily held my Ipod Classic. The main compartment was big enough for files, folders and larger documents. There was a padded compartment that was useful for my tablet device and the rear laptop compartment fitted up to a 17” laptop (although it was a little tight). There was also a meshed pocket. I used it for easy location of my glasses and business cards.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/flapjack1.jpg?w=300&h=225) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2012/12/08/osprey-flap-jack-courier-climbing-gear-review/flapjack1/)Plenty of room in the interior compartments. You could grab the bag via its padded main handle or it had a small 10mm webbed handle for carrying whilst open.

I have quickly grown to really enjoy this bag and it goes everywhere with me. Considering how much you can pay for an Alpine pack which you only use a handful of times a year. The cost per use of this £50 pack is amazing value as I use it every day.

RRP £49.99

Stockists – Nationwide

The only issue I have at the moment is that my wife covets it and wants to swap it with the larger courier pack that she uses!  I really can’t find many faults with this and can see me using it for many years to come.

Have you used the Osprey Flapjack ? Just leave a comment below and we’ll reply.

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Title: Winter Climbing Conditions 8th December 2012, Ben Eighe Scotland – Winter Climbing Conditions Report
Post by: comPiler on December 10, 2012, 12:00:37 am
Winter Climbing Conditions 8th December 2012, Ben Eighe Scotland – Winter Climbing Conditions Report (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2012/12/09/winter-climbing-conditions-12-december-2012-coire-an-lochain-cairngorms-scotland-winter-climbing-conditions-report/)
9 December 2012, 10:40 pm

This is the second of the winter climbing conditions reports that we are going to post for the 2012/13 winter season. (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/p1060265.jpg?w=512&h=288) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2012/12/03/winter-climbing-conditions-12-december-2012-coire-an-lochain-cairngorms-scotland-winter-climbing-conditions-report/p1060265/)Heading towards a very wet and black Far East Wall, Ben Eighe On Saturday 8th December, Dunc and I headed to Ben Eighe. The forecast was not ideal, with a temporary thaw on it’s way but we tried to be optimistic and hope for the best. The forecast suggested that the freezing level would be hovering around the summits so we hoped that it may just float around the base of the coire and allow things to stay frozen for climbing. It didn’t!! There was rain at all levels throughout the day and I was amazed to see how quickly things had thawed out. The snowpack was very saturated and there was lots of avalanche debris around. The walk in was hard going in deep and soft snow and the crags were dripping wet with no routes climbable. Fortunately the thaw is not supposed to last long and with a return to cold weather this week conditions could quickly start to become good again.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/12/p1060269.jpg?w=512&h=288) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2012/12/03/winter-climbing-conditions-12-december-2012-coire-an-lochain-cairngorms-scotland-winter-climbing-conditions-report/p1060269/)Ben Eighe, lots of avalanche debris around Remember to be aware of avalanche risk and check the up to date SAIS avalanche blog and avalanche forecasts (http://www.sais.gov.uk/)

The MWIS give up to date mountain weather forecasts (http://www.mwis.org.uk/) for all UK mountain areas

For those of you on Twitter (https://twitter.com/ScotWinter) remember to #tag your Scottish winter conditions tweets tweets with #scotwinter and follow @scotwinter (https://twitter.com/ScotWinter)

 

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Title: 2013 UK and Ireland Banff Mountain Festival, 25 January to 13 April 2013 – Climbing Gear News
Post by: comPiler on January 17, 2013, 12:00:41 am
2013 UK and Ireland Banff Mountain Festival, 25 January to 13 April 2013 – Climbing Gear News (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/01/16/2013-uk-and-ireland-banff-montain-festival-25-january-to-13-april-2013-climbing-gear-news/)
16 January 2013, 10:30 pm

2013 UK AND IRELAND BANFF MOUNTAIN FILM FESTIVAL WORLD TOUR RETURNS 25 January – 13 April 2013 (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx1.jpg?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx1.jpg)

ARC’TERYX Equipment (http://www.arcteryx.com/?EN) is proud to present the UK and Ireland Banff Mountain FilmFestival – the world’s most extraordinary collection of adventure, action sports and environmental films in its largest UK tour to date, which now extends to Irish shores. Audiences are set to experience greater adrenaline levels, higher intensity and feel more inspired than any other year.

Following sold-out shows seen by more than 10,000 people across the UK last year, the Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour is returning in early 2013 with 36 screenings planned across the UK and Ireland with an expected audience figure of over 17,000. The World Tour travels the globe every year visiting more than 390 communities and over 35 different countries, underlining the worldwide popularity of this mind-blowing festival and the action sports it represents.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/marko-prezelj-1mb.jpg?w=640&h=402) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/01/marko-prezelj-1mb.jpg)

The Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour is produced by The Banff Centre, based in the Canadian Rockies, and features award-winning films and audience favourites from over 300 films entered in the annual festival. This year’s festival was held between 27 October and 4 November 2012 and featured an extraordinary range of films.

Arc’teryx are proud to sponsor the event for the first time; “The birthplace of many of our technologies and developments has come from the Vertical world. We build high-end technical products for climbers, mountaineers, skiers and snowboarders and the Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour is a great fit. World class films from the environment and the people we design for,” commented Jo Salamon, Communications Manager at Arc’teryx.

A selection of the most exhilarating and provocative films from the festival will hit the road this winter and be showcased in theatres across the UK and Ireland. Highlights include:

Crossing the Ice – Two Australians set off across the ice to be the first adventurers to walk from the coastline of Antarctica to the South Pole and back again, unsupported. This epic expedition is an immensely emotional and physical struggle for the duo and concludes with an incredibly surprising and deeply moving twist.

WideBoyz – American off-width crack climbing has spawned a counter-culture of rough and tumble characters who aren’t afraid to bleed their way up a route. Two proper British lads, Tom Randall and Pete Whittaker, crossed the Atlantic to test themselves on some of the gnarliest wide cracks in the US, including the first ascent of the world’s hardest off-width known as Century Crack. Their stunning success shocked both themselves and the American climbing world.

The UK and Ireland Tour is so much more than a film night (albeit with incredible films). The events are festive, social evenings where outdoor adventure lovers from all backgrounds (and ages) come together to celebrate mountain culture through inspirational short films. Audiences also have a chance to win some great prizes.

UK and Ireland 2013 Tour dates are as follows:

• 25 January Forum Theatre, Malvern

• 26 January The Hall Venue Cymru, Llandudno

• 30 January Mitchell Library Theatre, Glasgow

• 31 January Eden Court Theatre, Inverness

• 1 February The Queen’s Hall, Edinburgh

• 2 February The Playhouse, Whitley Bay/Newcastle

• 6 – 7 February The Carriageworks, Leeds

• 8 February Theatre by the Lake, Keswick

• 9 February The Crescent Theatre, Birmingham

• 13 February Gelbunkian Theatre, Canterbury

• 15 February Komedia, Bath

• 16 February Lighthouse Theatre, Poole

• 21 February- 1 March Union Chapel, London

• 2 March The Plaza, Stockport

• 7 March The Grand Pavilion, Porthcawl/Bridgend

• 8 March The Ffwrnes, Llanelli

• 9 March Corn Exchange, Brighton

• 14 March Dorking Halls, Dorking

• 15 March Gatehouse Theatre, Stafford

• 16 March Plaza Cinema, Liverpool

• 20 March OPEN,Norwich

• 21 March City Hall, Salisbury

• 22 March Corn Exchange, Exeter

• 23 March Victoria Rooms, Bristol

• 5 April Hall for Cornwall, Truro

• 10 April Devere Hall, Cork

• 11 April The Set, Kilkenny

• 13 April Waterfront, Belfast

The World Tour attracts a wide range of people from all over the globe. From people who love to climb mountains or whiz down them at high speeds strapped to a parachute or set of skis; to those who are happy to enjoy these activities from the comfort of their armchairs.

ARC’TERYX is the Presenting Partner of the 2013 UK and Ireland Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour. Principal partners of the Tour are: Cotswold Outdoor, Buff, Keen and Patagonia and supporting partners are: Sea to Summit, World Expeditions and Clif Bar.

For Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour tickets and information go to www.Banff-uk.com. (http://www.banff-uk.com/)

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Title: UpRaw Sports Nutrition – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on February 06, 2013, 12:00:18 pm
UpRaw Sports Nutrition – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/02/06/upraw-sports-nutrition-climbing-gear-review/)
6 February 2013, 10:32 am

 

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/img_6252.jpg?w=640&h=540) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/img_6252.jpg)

Adam Lincoln tests out some UpRaw sports nutrition. And here is the verdict…  

For the 18 years or so I have been climbing, I don’t think I have really stumbled upon the best crag food. Believe me, I have tried everything! My favourite tends to be the humous and pitta bread. This can be a bit heavy if you eat too much though. Add to this a banana, the odd flapjack, a flask of coffee and I didn’t think I could go far wrong.

Then a friend introduced me to a new product; UpRaw. A catchy name was my first thought. Then a few other things came to mind. A quick chat with the guys and these are some of my thoughts…

My initial reaction was how un-sweet UpRaw is and slightly bitter. With only 4.7g sugars per serving (from honey only) to give just enough without inducing a ‘spike and subsequent crash’ associated with consuming too many sugars in one hit (giving my pancreas a break too from having to produce insulin to deal with excessive sugar intake).

The bitterness comes from the pure cocoa powder (not chocolate) being high in magnesium for muscle function and naturally occurring antioxidants.

UpRaw is packed with walnuts that provide a good protein hit and just as importantly a great source of healthy fats, including omega 3s – natures very own anti inflammatories!

Protein levels are boosted with unflavoured whey protein isolate, widely regarded as the king of proteins and old filtered for the best possible quality.

Desiccated coconut provides a whole host of nutritional properties, not least MCTs (medium chain triglycerides) that convert to useable energy.

Cinnamon, nutmeg and some hand harvested sea salt from Cornwall help maintain electrolyte balance.

I was amazed at how ‘clean’ UpRaw tasted and felt. I also noted how filling without feeling physically full, I felt. UpRaw told me that was a hormonal satiety response to the naturally occurring proteins and fats. There are satiety hormones that tell your brain to stop eating when we these fats and proteins are consumed and that’s why I felt ‘satisfied’ and not full. Carbs from cereal grains etc and especially too many sugars only spank your pancreas to make more insulin  - full steam ahead towards diabetes for example.

In a nutshell (no pun intended) 10/10 for UpRaw sports nutrition. The perfect crag, training and ‘knife and fork’ replacement fuel. It’s real food that my body needs.

UpRaw is breaking new ground in the diet and nutrition world with other varieties in the pipeline including nut and whey free versions.

UpRaw is so much more than something to eat and has really opened my eyes to food and nutrition. I now always look at the labels and nutritional profiles of food stuffs I buy and compare the profiles of other products to UpRaw… Whether you believe the rationale or not, the proof is in the eating!!

For anymore info, please visit the UpRaw website  (http://www.up-raw.com)

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Title: Lake District Winter Climbing Conditions – Blog
Post by: comPiler on February 10, 2013, 06:00:07 pm
Lake District Winter Climbing Conditions – Blog (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/02/10/lake-district-winter-climbing-conditions-blog/)
10 February 2013, 5:12 pm

Dave and Rich head into Link Cove for a mooch around. (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/rich-on-pinnacle-ridge.jpg?w=288&h=384) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/rich-on-pinnacle-ridge.jpg)Rich enjoying easy ground, we were in whiteout for most of the day.  

It was always going to be risky on a 4 degree C forecast, but as ever with a bit of effort and a willingness to walk away results in a great day out. We headed over to Patterdale to have a look at Scrubby Crag which we thought would be high enough to provide some sport, a steady drizzle and no drop in temperature meant a wet walk in.

Looking over to Link Cove Icefallsthey looked very black and running and Black Crag looked, well black.  Greenhow End looked more promising so up we trogged into steadily deeper but soft snow. On closer inspection of Step Gully the ice was formed and the route looked complete but there was a sizable gap between the ice and the rock: too risky for us! But both icefalls look great and with another cold snap will come straight back into condition.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/rich-on-pinnacle-belay.jpg?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/rich-on-pinnacle-belay.jpg)Rich looking forward to some decent snow and turf after an exciting first pitch. We then contoured around and into Link Cove and followed footprints to Scrubby – promising! These led into a fully formed Gully, we had done this a couple of years back only to top out to a full on Sea King helicopter rescue – very surreal so Pinnacle Ridge became the objective. This was very snowy and the soft turf meant much excitement was to be found, much more so when we quickly found ourselves off route and in a desperate, smooth rock groove. Much thrutching and grunting saw us up this and onto the ridge proper. The snow and turf improved at about 650m and the top two pitches were very nice indeed. A team of two seem to be having and fine and dandy time in the Gully which should improve with todays snow and a good freeze. Other than that we had the crag to ourselves. No other routes looked in and the wall looked black.

So a great day of fun and excitement and much better than brutalising ourselves in The Works (which was our back up plan) and as ever it’s worth the walk in for a look around because you just never know and one thing’s for sure you’re fitter than when you were before you started!

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Title: Arc’teryx Gamma Guide Pants – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on February 15, 2013, 12:00:28 am
Arc’teryx Gamma Guide Pants – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/02/14/arcteryx-gamma-guide-pants-climbing-gear-review/)
14 February 2013, 8:08 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx1.jpg?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx1.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/f12-gamma-guide-pant-black.jpg?w=136&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/f12-gamma-guide-pant-black.jpg)Arc’teryx Gamma Guide Pant Does the Arc’teryx Gamma Guide Pant have the durability, versatility and functionality that it’s name suggests? Performance: ****

Style: *****

Value for money: ****

Price: £150

The Gamma Guide Pant is described by Arc’teryx as:

Durable, breathable, wind and moisture resistant pant with reinforced instep patches, designed for alpine climbing. Durable Stretch Double Weave pant is rugged enough for industry use. Medium weight textile is resilient, breathable, modern. Hand pockets and fly zipper, integrated adjustable waist belt and static hemcord closure are discreet, durable, practical. Two large volume thigh pockets have one flap closure with Velcro® tab, one zipper closure for increased security. Keprotec™ instep patch prevents damage from ski edges or crampons. Has features for mountain guiding and backcountry pursuits with clean finishing to give an urban flare to an alpine piece.
The Gamma Guide Pant is one of the newer additions to the Gamma softshell range of legwear. I have worn the Gamma AR pant for a while now so was keen to see what the Guide version had to offer in addition to those. I’ve worn the Guide pants for about 4 months now, in a variety of disciplines and also in a variety of different weather types. Mixed climbing on cold and dry Alpine days, high winds, damp Scottish days, snow, ice and whilst skiing and ski touring.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/p1060028.jpg?w=194&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/p1060028.jpg)Arc’teryx Gamma Guide Pant, perfect for Alpine climbing. Seen here being used on the first crux of Beyond Good and Evil, North Face of Aiguille du Pelerins, France. The breathabilty of the pants is super, I don’t feel like I get too sweaty and I can layer underneath with anything from nothing to light long johns to Powerstretch, depending on the weather conditions or activity. And it is just as comfortable next to the skin as it is worn with a baselayer.

Although not 100% windproof I’ve found the wind resistance to be very good and even on windy days fighting back across the glacier to the Aiguille du Midi, with 80kph and high wind chill, I never felt as though I was being nipped by the wind. This may be a different case if I was stopped for long periods of time however, but in such cases I’d probably carry/wear a light windproof pant or hardshell pants. And whilst the Gamma Guide Pant is NOT waterproof (it’s weatherproof with a DWR finish) it is a weatherproof pant and as such it keeps the weather at bay quite admirably, repelling moisture, shedding snow and drying quickly.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/p1060086.jpg?w=224&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/p1060086.jpg)Arc’teryx Gamma Guide Pant. Heading back across the glacier after climbing on the East Face of Mt Blanc du Tacul. Coping nicely with the wild weather! I really like the stretchiness of the Burly™ double weave fabric. It provides great mobility for technical climbing, whilst also being super tough. The ease of movement is aided by the gusseted crotch and articulated knees. Despite a lot of granite and mixed climbing which usually serves to destroy my pants at an alarming rate I’m finding that the Guides are holding their own. I have managed the odd crampon nick, but these are minor. And annoyingly they’re just above the Keprotec™ instep patches (which are hole free) which leads me to ask whether these need to extend a little higher up the leg?

The cut of the trousers is not as close as that of the Gamma AR (which has a trim fit) and Arc’teryx describe it as ‘Athletic’. I would imagine that this is so the trousers can accommodate different disciplines, for example skiing and not just focus on being a climbing pant. Having worn the Gamma Guides with ski boots I’d say they do work but also, they required quite a bit of effort to get over the boots and this can be a pain when ski touring and having to adjust boots regularly for skiing and walking. Perhaps a zippered expansion system may be a better option? This would also mean that the trousers were neater on the ankle for climbing and less prone to crampon snags.

I found the leg length to be fine for me. I have a 30 inch waist and regular inside leg and my test pair were size Small with a regular leg length. Arc’teryx make many of their technical pants with a choice of leg lengths but from looking at the website, it appears that the Gamma Guides are now only available in a fixed length which if correct, would be a shame.

The trousers don’t have a built in gaiter or lace hook but do have a stretch cuff with a drawcord to cinch them round your boot cuffs. This is really my only major criticism of these pants. On cold snowy days I don’t really want to wear gaiters if I am wearing trousers of this type but the system on these is insufficient and the trousers ride up above boot cuffs despite the drawcord. On the Gamma AR pant there is a lace hook which goes some way to alleviating the issue but I STRONGLY urge Arc’teryx to look into adding tie down loops to the hems of all their technical trousers so that users have the option of adding an under the boot elastic, and thus very simply, getting rid of the need for gaiters at all! I actually added some to mine and did the same to my Gamma AR pants.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/dscn0447.jpg?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/dscn0447.jpg)Arc’teryx Gamma Guide Pant. Great for technical climbing. Used here whilst mixed climbing on Ben Eighe, Scotland. Other features that I really like on the Gamma Guide Pants are the soft chamois lined waist and integrated belt with easy closure. This is very comfortable, sits flat and doesn’t interfere with a climbing harness. The zipper on the fly is smooth but is difficult to operate when wearing gloves and requires a piece of cord to be added to make it more friendly. This should be a standard feature though and not one I have to add myself.

The pockets are excellent. Two zippered hand pockets store small items securely, but don’t interfere with a harness. However the thigh pockets are the most useful, with the velcro closure pocket being roomy enough to swallow a guidebook with ease and the zippered pocket being stretchy enough for sweets, headtorch etc but also flat and discreet when not in use. All 3 pockets (the fourth has velcro) come with glove friendly zipper tab as standard.

One final point. The Gamma Guide Pants come in 2 colours; I tested black but the Carbide option would be my first choice as it would be better for warmer weather, summer Alpine trips etc so more of an all-rounder.

To conclude: The Arc’teryx Gamma Guide Pants are a very versatile and durable pair of softshell trousers. The cut is great for climbing, they work with ski boots, and have awesome pockets and a comfy waistband. However, for the full 5 start package I would like to see tie down loops on the hem, a lace hook and the addition of a glove friendly zipper on the fly. All in all a great pair of pants though.

 

 

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Title: Black Diamond Vector Helmet – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on February 15, 2013, 06:35:34 pm
Black Diamond Vector Helmet – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/02/15/black-diamond-vector-helmet-climbing-gear-review/)
15 February 2013, 1:08 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/blackdiamond_standrd_neg.jpg?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/blackdiamond_standrd_neg.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/231210_14091_xl.jpg?w=296&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/231210_14091_xl.jpg)Black Diamond Vector Climbing Helmet Kevin Avery tests the Black Diamond Vector Helmet looking for a good fit, lightweight protection, comfort and style… Performance: *****

Style: ****

Value for money: ***

Price: £99.95

Black Diamond say:

A revolutionary helmet that’s ideal for long routes, alpine climbs and other weight-sensitive missions, the Black Diamond Vector Helmet combines lightweight protection, excellent ventilation and “barely there” comfort like never before. The geometric, co-molded EPS foam and polycarbonate shell provides full-coverage protection while remaining incredibly lightweight and comfortable, and the generous ventilation ports keep air flowing on warm days. The ratcheting suspension tucks away for easy storage in your pack, and when the sun gets down before you do, the Vector’s in-mold headlamp clips provide an ultra-secure attachment.
My first helmet was one of the Joe Brown classics; fibreglass, plastic and foam. It weighed 650 grams and was uncomfortable, big and sweaty. I never wore it…and anyway, back then, helmets just weren’t considered cool :-/ A little later, on one of my first trips to the Alps, I decided I might need a helmet I would actually wear. I bought an original Black Diamond Half Dome, it was white, light and a whole lot nicer to wear than my Joe Brown neck weight. But it still felt a bit cumbersome, and the fit didn’t quite seem perfect. So I only wore it when I thought it was absolutely necessary. Ice, Alpine, that sort of thing.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/images.jpg?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/images.jpg)Joe Brown Climbing Helmet – a heavy mix of fibreglass, foam and plastic. Things have moved on bit since these. Weighing 650 grams it wasn’t the lightest either! The Black Diamond Vector at 231grams, represents a weight saving of over 400 grams! I remember seeing the first Petzl Meteor helmets and thinking they looked like cycling helmets (which they did!). I also remember that at about the same time, more of the “wads in the mags”  were wearing helmets. Grit headpoints etc. I still hated helmets but was coming round to the idea that it might be a good idea to wear one all the time (statistics and all that). I was going off to the Dolomites to climb a route on the North Face of Cima Grande, the Brandler Hasse. It was a fairly tricky route where I’d have to concentrate and try hard and it was about 20 pitches long! I didn’t want some kind of heavy lump weighing me down, banging and clattering every time I looked up and generally getting in the way and putting me off! So I got a Black Diamond Tracer helmet. It was light and discrete and I wore it for quite a while. It was a big improvement but it still didn’t fit me perfectly so I didn’t wear it as much as I should’ve done. I was chatting to a mate of mine about the merits of helmets and how, maybe we should be wearing them whenever we climb. He had a Petzl Meteor II but again, didn’t like the fit. I tried it on and bizarrely, it fitted me perfectly. He tried my Black Diamond Tracer and strangely, it was a perfect fit for him! So we swapped!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/p1060362.jpg?w=214&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/p1060362.jpg)Ice climbing in Cogne…helmet obligatory! Black Diamond Vector Helmet worn under a hood. Since then I’ve worn my helmet all the time. And I suppose what I’m trying to say here is that, if we should all consider wearing a helmet when climbing, we need to get one that fits and is comfortable, as this will encourage us to…well, actually wear it! I recently cracked my Meteor II and was quite gutted, so when Black Diamond gave me the opportunity to test the new Vector I was pleased. I’d liked my Tracer but the fit wasn’t quite perfect. So how did I get on with Black Diamond’s new Vector helmet?

Firstly I’d like to say that the fit of the Vector helmet is much improved (for me) from that of my old Tracer. It fits easily as well as my Meteor II meaning I wear it all the time! At 231g (size S/M) it is barely noticeable once on your head and the simple ratchet adjuster system with molded push buttons is easy to use meaning the helmet accommodates hats, hoods etc or nothing at all underneath on those warmer days. The chin strap is comfortable and the buckle is easy to operate in all but the biggest of gloves. When the helmet is stored away the suspension system sits neatly inside.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/img_1980.jpg?w=300&h=214) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/img_1980.jpg)Black Diamond Vector Helmet – light and comfortable with a great fit. On technical climbs you forget you’re wearing it! I felt that the Vector gave good head coverage, vision wasn’t compromised and protection for the back of the head and upper neck seemed excellent. The ventilation holes are plentiful and positioned so that there is no danger of small stones etc, falling vertically into them. As it is a co-molded EPS foam and polycarbonate shell, it isn’t going to take multiple impacts and you do need to treat it with a little bit of care. Throwing my rucksack down on a recent day out, I managed to put a sizeable dent in the top of the Vector as it impacted with a stone on the floor! It will however, save your bacon when it really needs to and I’m pretty certain I wouldn’t care about discarding it and getting a new one after that!

Okay, so far so good. So is there anything I don’t like? Well, just one thing really. The Vector comes in 4 colours at present; orange, cafe, blizzard and black. As I said earlier, ventilation seems to be very good and in warmer in weather, on my test helmet, it might need to be! My Vector is black which to be honest, is not (in my opinion) a practical colour for a climbing helmet. It is going to heat up a lot in hot weather meaning less comfort and possibly less wearing by the user. It may be a fashionable colour but I’d prefer something light and bright that will reflect the sun rather than absorb it. Bright colours look cooler too (in my opinion) and stand out better in photos!

One final feature I’d like to mention are the head lamp clips. The Vector has 4, 2 at the front and 2 at the back and these allow a headtorch to be securely attached. Although I’ve always found this a bit of a job when actually wearing the helmet, something which has been the case with all helmets I’ve owned. Once on though, the torch is going nowhere!

So to conclude: The Vector helmet is a very light, supremely comfortable, climbing helmet. Fit is excellent as are head coverage and ventilation. On the down side I’m not so keen on the black colour-way for practical reasons and at £100, it’s not cheap. A great package from Black Diamond though and definitely a big improvement on the Tracer.



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Title: Lake District Winter Climbing Conditions-Blog
Post by: comPiler on February 24, 2013, 01:49:44 am
Lake District Winter Climbing Conditions-Blog (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/02/22/lake-district-winter-climbing-conditions-blog-2/)
22 February 2013, 7:34 am



(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/crinkle-crags.jpg?w=300&h=225) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/crinkle-crags.jpg)general outlook for Crinkle Crags-plenty of good snow! I’ve just returned from a short visit to the Lakes whilst seeing The North Face and Halglofs to view their Spring ranges – more on that to follow soon. I decided to stay in Langdale so headed out to check conditions. Weds I headed up over the Langdale Pikes, there was still plenty of snow it became less patchy at around 600m. The recent spell of cold conditions have consolidated the snow and was all very firm and gave great conditions. Pavey Ark was black and none of the  gullies were complete. You’d be wasting you time trying to find any winter climbing over this side of the valley.

There was still some daylight so I headed over to Chapel Stile boulders – the quarried problems were all in condition but there was some seepage from the natural lines. The Quarry routes were all seeping.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/arcteryx-spotter-pants.jpg?w=300&h=225) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/arcteryx-spotter-pants.jpg)Giving the new Arc’teryx Spotter Pants a chilly testing – my fingers warmed up eventually! Thursday morning I went over the other side of the valley, it had been very cold in the night so condition were much better. The snow became less patchy at around 600m and I was looking for moderate/easy ground so that I could practice moving quickly (I was on my own)  All the main gully lines were complete and gave excellent conditions.

I didn’t get over as far as Bowfell Buttress but it looked well rimed up and looked like it had just enough snow cover to justify an ascent – all exposed turf was bombproof. If you are looking for ice all running was was running, I only found a short icefall at the top of Shelter Crags Gully and even this was detached and running. there was plenty of ice smears but they were prone to dinner plating.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/shelter-crags-ice.jpg?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/shelter-crags-ice.jpg)Gully Icefall on Shelter Crags. So much walking, so little ice! Greta End looked complete and Scafell also looked great so they’ll be plenty of opportunities this weekend, have a great time. There was team on the Langdale boulders as I was leaving so I’m assuming they had dried out a bit from Thursday.

Dave.

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Title: Ben Nevis and Glencoe Winter Climbing Conditions – Blog
Post by: comPiler on February 24, 2013, 06:00:14 pm
Ben Nevis and Glencoe Winter Climbing Conditions – Blog (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/02/24/ben-nevis-and-glencoe-winter-climbing-conditions-blog/)
24 February 2013, 3:33 pm

Just back from an awesome week climbing on Ben Nevis, Buachaille Etive Mor and Ben Udlaidh in perfect, alpine conditions. Conditions on the West are nothing short of fantastic at the moment with fat, solid ice, alpine weather, great views and classic routes to climb in abundance.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/p1060687.jpg?w=640&h=360) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/p1060687.jpg)Great sunset North of Bridge of Orchy on Monday Night Last Sunday (17th) I climbed Point Five Gully on Ben Nevis with Kasia. This gave a superb day out in great weather. The ice was a little soft and had a layer of unconsolidated crud over it, particularly on the second pitch, meaning it was good for climbing but not great for protection from ice screws. The week of cold weather we’ve had since will mean that things have improved on that front now though. I led the first couple of pitches and Kasia smoothly led the Rogue (3rd) pitch. We then moved together up the top section to be greeted by a calm and sunny summit plateau. The descent down Number 4 Gully is pretty safe at the moment. An awesome day out!!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/p1060629.jpg?w=360&h=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/p1060629.jpg)Kasia leading the Rogue 3rd pitch on Point 5 Gully, Ben Nevis On Monday 18th Kasia and I enjoyed a fun day on and around Curved ridge on the Buachaille, Glencoe. We soloed the whole thing on ice and neve runnels, and were greeted by great views from the summit. A simple descent and then a superlative sunset that seemed to last for ever, topped off a fantastic weekend (http://s0.wp.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/p1060665.jpg?w=640&h=360) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/p1060665.jpg)Kasia enjoying alpine weather, good neve and great views on Curved Ridge on the Buachaille, Glencoe With the promise of settled weather and the conditions lasting throughout the week I made a return North on Tuesday with Richard Allen. We hewaded up to Ben Nevis on Wednesday morning (20th). The weather was much colder than it had been at the weekend and a cold breeze was whistling down the Alt a Mhuillin. Extensive cloud cover obscured most of the routes for the day so we opted on avoiding a cold, windy and viewless summit and went for a short day climbing Vanishing Gully. This gave 2 long pitches of excellent ice with good belays and screw runners and an abseil descent. The first ab station is located on the left (skier’s right) at the top of the second pitch and the second is located on the skier’s left at the bottom of the gully. Take care to stop ropes jamming on this one.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/8502370519_c317db0782_b.jpg?w=480&h=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/8502370519_c317db0782_b.jpg)Kev enjoying great ice on the crux second pitch of Vanishing Gully, Ben Nevis. The next day (Thursday 21st) we headed back up to the Ben for a look. Our plan was to check out Minus One Gully but after the first pitch, lack of ice meant we abseiled back down to scratch our heads and wonder what to do next! Minus One needs a bit of freeze thaw but after that I think it should be fine. At 1.30pm we set off on Orion Direct, a route I’ve done before about 8 years ago. Superb ice and good screws where it mattered saw us top out before 6pm and some lovely clear skies guided us down to Fort Bill for curry and beers! Another outstanding day on the hill!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/p1060731.jpg?w=640&h=360) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/p1060731.jpg)Richard Allen on Orion Direct, Ben Nevis, just after the Basin. Rich wasn’t keen for a slog up the Ben 3 days on the trot and as conditions for mixed climbing in Glencoe were not looking that good I was struggling to think of a suitable venue. Last minute however, I got wind that Crowberry Gully on the Buachaille was in good nick, so after a lie in we sauntered up to Crowberry basin and the soloed the first 200 or so metres of the route before sticking a rope on for the last ice walls to the top. A quick ascent saw us on the summit for lunch and in the pub for chips and beers for mid afternoon.

Crowberry Gully is by far the best grade 4 gully I have climbed in Scotland and not to be missed in these conditions.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/8503481138_a4405c82f1_b.jpg?w=480&h=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/8503481138_a4405c82f1_b.jpg)Kev enjoying great conditions on Crowberry Gully. Unfortunately Saturday had to see us head South once but an early start and a bit of a punt saw us head up Glen Orchy where we walked up to Ben Udlaidh and climbed the excellent Organ Pipe Wall which was in good but fragile condition. Pete and Ewan climbed Quartzvein Scoop, commenting that the bottom was a little rotten but very good after that. Many of the other routes, Peter Pan etc, are there and complete but could do with a few days more cold weather to build up.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/p1060802.jpg?w=640&h=360) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/p1060802.jpg)No it’s not Cogne! Richard Allen leading the steep pitch on Organ Pipe Wall, Ben Udlaidh, Southern Highlands. So, all in all a fantastic week in Scotland showing that when it’s good up there, it really is the best! I’m already looking forward to next weekend’s trip (http://s0.wp.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)

Be sure to check out the mountain weather forecasts (http://www.mwis.org.uk/) and avalanche reports (http://www.sais.gov.uk/) before any trip out into the hills.

Safe climbing folks!

Kev Avery

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Title: PATAGONIA REVEALS ENCAPSIL™ DOWN BELAY PARKA – Climbing Gear News
Post by: comPiler on March 01, 2013, 12:00:12 pm
PATAGONIA REVEALS ENCAPSIL™ DOWN BELAY PARKA – Climbing Gear News (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/03/01/patagonia-reveals-encapsil-down-belay-parka-climbing-gear-news/)
1 March 2013, 8:42 am

PATAGONIA REVEALS ENCAPSIL™ DOWN BELAY PARKA WITH 1000-FILL-POWER, WATER-REPELLENT DOWN (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/84645_065.jpg?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/84645_065.jpg)Patagonia Encapsil Down Belay Parka  

 

Patagonia Inc., the outdoor apparel company, today announces the launch of its Encapsil™ Down Belay Parka. Available in special edition quantities with numbered labels inside each parka, the Encapsil™ Down Belay Parka is an extraordinary work of design and engineering. A first of its kind, this parka is 100% independently baffled and differentially cut without a single shortcut or “cheat” where a seam has been sewn through, resulting in a cold spot. Weighing 18 ounces (510 grams) and insulated with Patagonia’s proprietary, plasma-treated, water- repellent Encapsil™ 1000-fill-power down, the belay parka is unparalleled in warmth for its weight, designed for alpinists to take into the burliest of conditions.

“Patagonia has insisted on taking an intensive scientific and holistic approach to do more, but with less environmental harm,” notes Randy Harward, vice president of advanced research & development at Patagonia, “Even with these stringent guidelines, we’ve developed the highest- performing down technology available anywhere. This has been a five-year R&D project in the making, and we are eager to integrate this technology into future styles beyond the Belay Parka.”
Water-repellent down garments are now available from several manufacturers. Patagonia, however, has taken a unique approach – one that not only produces water- repellent down, but delivers a significant advantage no one else can provide: unprecedented, 1000-fill-power. Encapsil™ patented technology uses safe, silicone-based chemistry that is free of fluorocarbons. Patagonia’s down is sent through a proprietary machine and agitated with low-level radio frequency waves until the surface of the down’s molecular structure begins to shift. A tiny amount of siloxane is then deposited onto each plumule of down, adhering to its changed molecular structure in a virtually permanent way. The result is down that is hydrophobic,  stronger and loftier by 25%.

“This is the most challenging design project I have ever worked on,” notes Casey Shaw, advanced product engineer at Patagonia, “To design this parka, we had to develop new construction techniques that would allow us to maintain perfectly baffled chambers, while insuring low bulk and realistic production capability for the factory. Given the complexity of this parka’s design, our team had to fly to the factory to guide them through the intricate construction and assembly techniques to ensure the correct execution of the design.”
Patagonia offers its most thoughtful design in the Encapsil™ Down Belay Parka, with no detail spared. Shell fabric is an ultralight 10-denier Pertex® Endurance nylon ripstop with a polyurethane dry coat, providing excellent water repellency. The hood is baffled and helmet-compatible, with a single drawcord that provides a small draft collar of down around the face, creating a microclimate to help prevent frostbite on exposed skin. Variegated baffles across the parka are smaller in high- compression areas to help keep down from shifting, and a double-baffle wind flap behind the zipper completely seals out cold and wind. No moisture-holding materials are used anywhere in this parka. Exterior hand pockets are independently insulated to retain warmth even when open, and the high positioning keeps them away from the harness line. A unique pull-system at the hem allows for

adjustment of the drawcord from inside or out, eliminating harness entanglement, and a mini-snowskirt keeps out wind and snow from below without compressing the

down in the lowest chamber.

“Not only is this parka functional, it is also beautiful,” notes Lee Turlington, vice president of global product at Patagonia, “If you are going to make the best possible product, it needs to be perfectly tailored and clean- finished. It is incredibly hard to clean-finish a garment like this – it turns a technically superior belay parka into a work of art.”
The Encapsil™ Down Belay Parka will be available in special-edition, limited quantities, and will be for sale at http://www.patagonia.com, and in the Patagonia Chamonix retail store.



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Title: Gear News – The North Face wins contract to supply kit to Glenmore Lodge Guides.
Post by: comPiler on March 03, 2013, 12:00:12 pm
Gear News – The North Face wins contract to supply kit to Glenmore Lodge Guides. (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/03/03/gear-news-the-north-face-wins-contract-to-supply-kit-to-glenmore-lodge-guides/)
3 March 2013, 7:48 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/glenmorelodge.jpg?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/glenmorelodge.jpg)

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The North Face have beaten all the competition to kit out the Glenmore Lodge Guides on the gnarly Cairngorm Plateau. The North Face®, along with many other leading brands was invited to submit products to a selectionprocess where all would be tested for performance against the Scottish winter. Product would be chosen on merit alone.

Jon Jones, Head of Mountaineering at Glenmore Lodge said “We started from scratch when looking for a new clothing partner, testing garments in the harshest possible conditions in the UK, the Cairngorm Plateau in winter. We extensively tested clothing from leading brands over a period of 3 months. We were blown away by the performance of The North Face® kit. It made the final decision an easy one to make as the entire team were in total agreement. We are all hugely pleased to be working with The North Face, safe in the knowledge it will keep us warm and dry even in the harshest of winter conditions.”

Bob Kinnaird, Principal at Glenmore Lodge added “we are very excited about the opportunity to work with The North Face, not only has the clothing proved to be top of its class during our rigorous testing but as a global brand the opportunities for us to increase the awareness of The Lodge are huge. It will enable us to further promote the safe, responsible and sustainable use of the outdoors for adventurous activity whilst ensuring our staff and our clients have access to the best clothing in the market place”.

Alex Beasley, Country Manager UK also added, “To be associated with Glenmore Lodge is a wonderful opportunity to further improve our Summit Series product by using the feedback from the instructors in our design process. Furthermore the fact that Glenmore Lodge is Scotland’s National Outdoor Centre will allow us to extend our staff training program to include a testing outdoor experience with input from true professionals to further help sell through of the brand for our retailers. To say we are excited is an understatement!”

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Title: Patagonia Men’s Capilene 4 Expedition Weight Zip Neck Baselayer – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on March 05, 2013, 12:00:12 pm
Patagonia Men’s Capilene 4 Expedition Weight Zip Neck Baselayer – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/03/05/patagonia-mens-capilene-4-expedition-weight-zip-neck-baselayer-climbing-gear-review/)
5 March 2013, 10:05 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/logo.jpg?w=640&h=128) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/logo.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/43655_101.jpg?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/43655_101.jpg)Patagonia Capilene 4 Expedition Weight Zip Neck Baselayer  Like most outdoor enthusiasts, I own a lot of baselayers. It seems to be something you collect over the years and are slightly loathed to get rid of. I’ve got silkweight, merino, Lifa, Powerstretch, R1 amongst others and now a Cap 4 Expedition Weight Zip Neck from Patagonia. Performance: *****

Style: *****

Value for money: ****

Price: £84.99

Patagonia say that:

Our warmest and most breathable synthetic baselayer keeps you dry and comfortable in cold conditions.

When a foot-wide ledge becomes your bed for the night, this compressible zip-neck helps turn up the heat. The warmest and most breathable baselayer in the Capilene® family, Capilene 4 keeps you dry and comfortable in cold conditions and through long nights. It has a soft, stretchy feel, with a smooth jersey face that glides beneath layers. Its open grid brushed fleece interior warms your core, wicks moisture and rests smoothly against the skin. Details include articulated, raglan sleeves for complete shoulder mobility, hidden thumb loops to ensure wrist coverage and an elongated zipper for efficient venting. The baseball-style hem stays put under a harness. Made of 3.8-oz proprietary performance Polartec® Power Dry® High Efficiency™ fabric that has Gladiodor® odor control for the garment.
Firstly the Cap 4 Zip Neck is not a lightweight baselayer and as Patagonia talk about cold conditions, that’s when I’ve been testing it. I’ve worn the Cap 4 all winter (not without washing it though!) for a number of different activities. Trail running, ski touring, hiking, mixed climbing, ice falls, and mountaineering…the Cap 4 has done it all! On a day out winter climbing you may have a high output approach where you are going to sweat! Similar for things like ski touring and when you are ice and mixed climbing, you may be working hard whilst leading a pitch but then stood still belaying for an hour (or maybe more). If you are soaked to the skin in sweat when you stop, then you are inevitably going to get cold more quickly during periods of inactivity. I read a quote recently (unfortunately I can’t find it again!) that said ‘if you don’t want to get cold then don’t get hot’ and I think there is a lot in this.  On long sweaty approaches I like to set off cold and wear minimal clothing so that I can regulate my body temperature and not overheat. Similarly when climbing, I wear the bare minimum to protect myself, then layer up over the top of this when I stop.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/8502372413_f246e83c48_b.jpg?w=480&h=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/8502372413_f246e83c48_b.jpg)The Patagonia Cap 4 Expedition Weight Baselayer is perfect for activities such as ice climbing. So, how is all this relevant to the Cap 4 baselayer you might ask? Well, if you have a decent baselayer, that breathes effectively and wicks moisture (sweat) away from your skin, then there will be less moisture on the skin and in your clothes when you stop. Remember that this moisture is the stuff that then rapidly cools down and cools you down. That’s what it’s designed to do! Sweating is your body’s natural cooling process.

In terms of breathability I have been mightily impressed with the Cap 4. This winter when I have been moving quick on approaches or out running I have layered nothing more than a light shell over it if it has been windy. It has been warm yet wicked moisture away from my body at a very quick rate. The fabric is also very quick drying and I think that this is down to the grid patterning of the interior, which gives a greater surface area, spreading the moisture out so it can evaporate more readily. In short, this baselayer breathes well and dries fast, coping very well with the changing outputs that a day in the mountains can demand.

I really like the 3.8-oz Polartec® Power Dry® High Efficiency™ fabric. It is super comfortable when worn next to the skin, being soft and stretchy but also allows layers to move freely over the top of it. The cut of the garment is excellent with the baseball style hem giving extra length and coverage so there is a bit of overlap between that and your lower half, something which could cause you to have a cold spot. The arms are well cut and sufficient length is built in to ensure that the sleeves do not ride up when you are climbing.

I particularly like the subtle addition of thumb loops. These are discreet enough to not get in the way when you’re not using them but simple and effective to deploy when you are. These are a great feature for a winter baselayer as they ensure your wrists stay covered and warm, even when you are wearing non-gauntlet style gloves.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/p1060829.jpg?w=640&h=360) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/p1060829.jpg)Discreet but very effective thumb loops on the Patagonia Cap 4 Expedition weight Zip Neck Baselayer Other things I like about the Capilene 4 Expedition Weight Zip Neck Baselayer are the zip, which is smooth to operate even when wearing gloves and also deep enough to ventilate on those days when things are warmer than you anticipated. Also, even after multiple days of use I have found that the Cap 4 doesn’t smell too bad (my climbing partners may disagree!) and I can only presume that this is down to the Gladiodor® odor control.

To conclude, I would say that this is now my favourite winter baselayer! I love the cut, fabric and the discreet thumb loops. The only thing that would make it better for winter use for me, would be if it had a hood! Oh wait…Patagonia have read my mind and a hooded version was available for the winter season. Good job!



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Title: The North Face – The new Spring/Summer 13 collection for climbers.
Post by: comPiler on March 09, 2013, 06:00:28 pm
The North Face – The new Spring/Summer 13 collection for climbers. (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/03/09/the-north-face-the-new-springsummer-13-collection-for-climbers/)
9 March 2013, 12:36 pm

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The North Face –  CGR looks at what’s new for climbers in Spring 2013? CGR recently visited The North Face UK offices to see what’s new for climbers in 2013. It’s easy to snub TNF as a brand for Hikers, Students, and Dog Walkers, but we at CGR maintain that beneath all the High Street apparel there lies a deep love of climbing and exploration in the brand. This is shows through in the innovation and the continual sponsorship of high profile expeditions and climbers.

The range is part of the Summit Series: this is the top of the range, designed and functional kit and is aimed at “hard core acheivers” and dedicated climbers.

This Spring TNF have produced a range of clothing specific for alpine and technical mountain climbing. The range has been designed in partnership with the Pao brothers using their big wall climbing experience as inspiratation. TNF have produced a range that is ultra light and athletic in fit and function: you won’t find any of this range on a TV presenter!

To see the Pao brothers big wall credentials just check this:

There are four items that together weigh in at less than 1.5kg, that for a full set of clothes, I’ve tested pants that almost weigh that alone! These are:

The Anti-Matter Jacket (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/tnf-anti-matter-jkt.jpg?w=256&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/tnf-anti-matter-jkt.jpg)

TNF says: One of the lightest climbing shells on the market (319g). Created from a hybrid fabric construction of 2L and seam-taped 3L Gore Windstopper® Active Shell, the Anti-Matter Jacket cuts weight and bulk, while providing durable, abrasion-resistant protection and maximum freedom of movement. 100% windproof, highly water-resistant and extremely breathable. Features: climbing-specific fit, helmet-compatible hood with laminated and wired peak, hybrid alpine pockets/pit zips and nonabrasive, moulded cuff tabs.
CGR says: this looked a great lightweight, shell. It packed down to nothing and felt great on.

The Verto Micro Hoodie (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/tnf-verto-micro-hoodie.jpg?w=256&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/tnf-verto-micro-hoodie.jpg)

TNF says: An athlete favourite, Verto Micro Hoodie is a lightweight mid-layer designed for climbers who need essential warmth without bulk on the big wall. Pertex® Quantum™ GL fabric shell is stuffed with 800-fi ll goose down for the ultimate in warmth-to-weight ratio (245g) & compressibility. Protection for face & neck enhanced through strategic insulation panels & elastic-edged hood. Stretch, wicking FlashDry™ underarm panels aids moisture management & totally windproof shell on hood, shoulders & sleeves protect from the elements.
CGR says: a very specialist item of clothing. Not something to wear down the pub but as insulating layer that you can climb in, it looked just the ticket. The Infiesto Full Zip Top (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/tnf-infiesto-full-zip.jpg?w=256&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/tnf-infiesto-full-zip.jpg)

TNF says: Cut from Polartec® Power Dry®, this lightweight classic style fl eece jacket blends insulation for warmth with wicking action for moisture management. Elastic binding at the collar, cuffs and hem ensures a tight fit.
CGR says: A full zip Power Dry top complete with pockets: a versatile item of clothing for all your mountain adventures. The Meteor Pant (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/tnf-meteor-pant.jpg?w=256&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/tnf-meteor-pant.jpg)

TNF says: Built for a wide range of alpine  activities, this lightweight, technical pant boasts a universal,athletic fit. Pioneering Pertex® Equilibrium™ fabric construction is both wicking and water resistant thanks to a DWR coating, whilst stretch woven thigh and lower leg panels breathe well and reduce bulk. The super low-profile waist construction and anatomical lumbar fit are harness and pack-belt compatible.
CGR says: a nice fitting and functional pair of high alpine pants. Functional enough to keep the showers and wind off and flexible enough for those heinous rock overs. As well as the clothing the range there is also:

The Verto 32 (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/tnf-verto-32.jpg?w=256&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/tnf-verto-32.jpg)

TNF says: Lightweight, durable and compressible, this pack stows inside its own zippered pouch for easy storage on longer adventures. When open, the Verto boasts 32 litres of storage in lightweight, durable cargo chute nylon, making it the ultimate summit ascent pack. Triple-point compression lets it double up as a sleeping bag stuffsack.
CGR says: We’ve been using the orginal Verto 25 for a while now and it’s proved a great super light climbing pack so it’s great to see a bigger pack with a removable foam padding. At 644g it should be popular. We love the way it all folds into it’s own pocket – sweet. And finally The Verto Plasma (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/tnf-verto-plasma.jpg?w=257&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/tnf-verto-plasma.jpg)

TNF says: One of the lightest technical approach shoes on the market (410g), Verto Plasma provides excellent stability and traction over mountainous multi-terrain, adapting to any situation. Combines protection and agility required for via ferrata, with impact control during load carrying on rock. Proprietary Cradle™ technology ensures maximum comfort and a biomechanically correct stride. Supports the perimeter of the heel and ensures underlying soft tissues are anatomically positioned. Inspired by over 40 years of mountaineering heritage, blending European craftsmanship with modern materials. Men’s and women’s versions available.
CGR says: TNF’s first steps into the approach shoe market. It looked great and we loved the narrow toe box and they felt very light on and well constructed. We’ve asked for a pair on test to see if they can pass the ultimate CGR test – to climb VS in them! So you can expect to see these in stores soon and if you are planning any high mountain adventures in 2013 they are well worth a look at.

STOP PRESS! Look out for the new Thermoball Hoodie for Autumn 2013 – the exclusive new Primaloft filling looked much better than the current Primaloft Sport, having better compressibility and higher loft. Thermoball fillings will be exclusive to TNF apparel.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/tnf-thermoball-hoodie.jpg?w=256&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/tnf-thermoball-hoodie.jpg)

CGR says: this looked a great lightweight, insulating layer. Great loft and compressibility,  it felt great under a shell.

(http://feeds.wordpress.com/1.0/comments/climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2359/) (http://feeds.wordpress.com/1.0/gocomments/climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2359/) (http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com&blog=15956860&post=2359&subd=climbinggearreviewsuk&ref=&feed=1)

Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Scottish Winter Climbing, Minus 1 Gully, Ben Nevis – Blog
Post by: comPiler on March 12, 2013, 12:00:17 am
Scottish Winter Climbing, Minus 1 Gully, Ben Nevis – Blog (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/03/11/scottish-winter-climbing-minus-1-gully-ben-nevis-blog/)
11 March 2013, 10:23 pm

Minus 1 Gully, Ben Nevis…an imperfect account of a perfect day on the best ice climb in Britain. (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/p1060866.jpg?w=640&h=457) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/p1060866.jpg)Rich Allen following the crux second pitch of Minus 1 Gully, Ben Nevis The cold conditions up North continue to taunt us…drawing us in with promises of frigid forays into the hills. A run of classic bagging that couldn’t continue but did. The weeks go by dreaming about the weekends, of classic lines, days out with friends , and forgotten pioneers. Some courses come easily, present perfectly and put up no fight. Pure paths. Memorable days.

Point 5 Gully.

Orion Direct.

Crowberry Gully.

Class acts in perfect pleasure.

Others make us work a little harder. Spindrift, damp and thaw. Or forceful maelstroms flinging sandlike grains in our eyes like spiteful children in the playground. Spindrift choked chimneys, forcing you to gag, snort and semi suffocate. A wetness that chills to the bone. Harsh, demoralising and trying to make us turn our backs on them as they have already done to us. Closing a door on opportunists.

But perhaps it is in the face of such adversity that the greatest pleasures lie? That which presents easily is fun. It has it’s place. Perfection and smoothness always have and will continue to have, a place. But now and again they’ll make you lower your guard, thinking it’s easy, taking it for granted. Folly. The greatest prizes are the ones that put up a fight. Make you wait, presenting then quickly closing the door again. Frustrating, taunting and teasing. Seldom in condition. Sometimes close. Patience is a virtue.

The first winter ascent of Minus 1 Gully on Ben Nevis took place in the February of 1974. Ken Crocket and Colin Stead. Crocket writes in the winter bible that is Cold Climbs:

“It was the last of the great Nevis gullies to fall.”

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/img_2215.jpg?w=480&h=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/img_2215.jpg)Mick Fowler’s classic image of Tony Saunders approaching the crux overhang on pitch 2 of Minus 1 Gully, Ben Nevis. (Taken from the book: Cold Climbs) It is a climb of great grandeur and spleandour. But it is one of those lines talked about above. Frustrating. Taunting. Teasing. A true “prize”. And until that February of 1974 it had (as one local expert reckoned) rebuked 26 previous attempts. Crocket describes the experience in Cold Climbs.What he calls “an imperfect account of a perfect day”. A must read for all aspiring winter tigers, wads and perpetrators.

I started climbing aged 14. I started winter climbing at university even though I said I never would. Until then the only place I aspired to go in winter, was the climbing wall. Or bolt clipping in the sun. Ice climbing was unfeasibly dangerous in my young mind. Not much has changed, the fear and the appreciation of danger still live with me but I choose to court and control them. Put them in my pocket. Nurture them even. See how far it can be pushed. Although now I realise I’ll probably not push it too far. Never quite pull the pin…

As a climber I’ve always been a ticker. But there’s more to it than that. Personal challenge. Classics. Hard. Easy. All out and sauntering, basking in nature’s beauty and classicism. They all have there appeal. I love the history of classic climbs. Dunne on Predator at Malham, named as it was a project stolen from Steve Rhodes. The Smith and Marshall Golden week. Redhead’s “tormented ejaculation”. The stars. The lines. And the stories behind them. Natural beauty. Perfect days with friends. And the waiting. The fruitless trips…making the victories ever sweeter.

Below is an account. A route description of the climb as we found it on Saturday. A climb I have waited to find in condition ever since those university days. Fruitless trips and changed plans. Frustrations and joys. A journey. My imperfect account of a perfect day.

Minus 1 Gully, Ben Nevis. Saturday 9th March 2013 with Richard Allen

Minus 1 Gully is the right-most of the three distinctive, slanting gully lines on the Minus Face of Ben Nevis.

We approached from the CIC hut. Good firm snow helped but the howling wind that had already turned a number of parties back at the hut, did not. They should’ve been more patient however. On the face, things were pretty much calm, except the odd spindrift bombardment from above, and strangely sometimes below.

As the snow slope narrows to form a gully with a rock wall on either side we chose to belay. A ledge kicked out of the snow. A peg (not insitu) hammered into a thin crack on the right and the axes buried to the hilt and clipped.

P1: Rich led off up good consolidated snow to a nice ice step (good screw runners) which paved the way into the gully above and a further ice step and steepening. Belaying at the base of this on a good crack on the right wall containing an old insitu wallnut 10, tied off with blue tat and a Camalot 0.5, he brought me up. This is a good solid belay with a decent view of the next pitch, but also out of the main frag line.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/8544963337_4b64df44c4_o.jpg?w=480&h=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/8544963337_4b64df44c4_o.jpg)Following the first pitch of Minus 1 Gully, Ben Nevis. P2: Placing a solid ice screw at the bottom of the ice, I romped up the step with first time sticks to arrive at the steepening snow which led to the obvious overhang, looming above. A wire sticking out of the ice (god knows what it’s actually attached to) offered protection for ascending the off vertical bottomless sugar which leads up to the roof. Ice on the left wall was scarce and nowhere near that seen in the photo of Tony Saunders in Cold Climbs. The insitu gear hanging down off the left wall wasn’t even tantalisingly reachable. As such I pretended it wasn’t there! Once on top of the snow plug beneath the roof I could clip an insitu hex and wire, which I backed up with a red Camalot. This is good solid gear. Making thin moves leftwards from the sanctuary of the cave, I moved boldly up thin ice on the leaning left wall. Strenuous and delicate. I managed to place a couple of unsatisfactory (shit!) screws but doubt they’d have been much use. I reached rightwards to what I’d hoped would be decent ice up above the roof and a quick regaining of the gully. Unfortunately it proved to be rather thin which helped to concentrate the mind a little. Some funky wide bridging out on the right wall of the gully offered a little respite and better sticks leading to one further strenuous pull to join the gully above. A few more metres led to a good belay on insitu gear on the left wall. Rich followed confirming what I thought about it being “thin”.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/8546065328_8a33f5bef7_o.jpg?w=480&h=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/8546065328_8a33f5bef7_o.jpg)Mid crux on the second pitch of Minus 1, Gully Ben Nevis. P3: A superb, long pitch. Approximately 55 metres. Rich charged off up the gully towards the obvious bulge, clipping a couple of good insitu pegs on the right wall as he went. An insitu wire (looked ok) under the roof protected the steepening which he dealt with by climbing the bulging left wall and bridging back rightwards to gain the steep ice corner above. Motoring up this section with good screws and first time sticks led to an easing in the angle. Moving delicately up right then gained a left facing slabby groove with an insitu peg on it’s right wall at the base. The next section was passed by sustained and thin (1 inch ice) climbing with poor protection before an exit left at the top which gained a snowfield leading to the base of 2 icy gooves. Rich belayed below the righthand groove on a pecker and 2 ice axes. Probably not bomber!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/p1060870.jpg?w=457&h=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/p1060870.jpg)Rich Allen about to surmount the bulge that opens the way on the superb third pitch of Minus 1 Gully, Ben Nevis. P4: The guidebook says that either groove can be followed. I opted for the lefthand one. Spookily thin ice at the bottom, had me searching for runners in the rocks on the left. I found a couple of satisfactory nuts and quested on up. Getting committed on 75-80 degree, inch thick ice, I kept teetering upwards, no going down or so it felt. The 50 foot runout, occasional ‘ice losing contact and showing me rock’ and general seriousness, made this section feel pretty engaging! Better neve and a good nut a little higher, made things more enjoyable and had a hint of Chamonix goulotte climbing about them. I belayed on pegs (not insitu) and an ice screw, after approximately 45 metres and brought Rich up.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/p1060882.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/p1060882.jpg)Rich Allen following on thin ice. Pitch 4 of Minus 1 Gully, Ben Nevis. P5: After about 10 metres climbing up the groove above Rich followed a strange snow feature out rightwards below a steepening wall. We couldn’t work out whether this was snow piled on a ledge or not. It actually appeared to be snow just sticking randomly and thickly to the thinly iced slab, but we hoped not. Rich channeled his way carefully and prudently rightwards, which had comedy and seriousness in equal measure. Luckily the snow feature didn’t collapse! Gaining good ice in the right hand groove, Rich quickly forged on up sublime ice, to a belay (good rock gear) on the right side of the gully at a point where it ended below an impending rock wall.

P6: The end of the difficulties on Britain’s best ice climb. I led up a groove on the left which leads via a short mixed section to an obvious notch in the skyline. A short section of ridge leads on up to join the classic North-East Buttress at it’s second snow platform. A truly incredible outing!

We had heard (and the wind conditions of the day had initially dictated) that an abseil descent down Minus 2 Gully, was a possibility. We tried to find the stations, wasted lots of time, and failed. Instead we followed North-East Buttress to the top. This would have been our plan A anyhow if it hadn’t been for the wind and, I have to say I’m glad we did. Minus 1 Gully is the best ice climb I’ve done in Scotland and following it with anything other than some classic mixed ridge climbing and a deserted summit plateau, would have been a total anticlimax.

Perfect day, perfect route, but probably an imperfect account. I love Ben Nevis!

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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title:
Post by: comPiler on March 14, 2013, 06:00:14 pm
 (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/03/14/2400/)
14 March 2013, 5:30 pm

Matteo della Bordella and Luca Schiera climb the first ascent of the Torre Egger West Face
 Notti Magiche: 7a, A2, WI4 (1000 m)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/m-della-bordella-and-luca-schiera-after-the-first-ascent-ever-of-the-west-face.jpg?w=640&h=428) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/m-della-bordella-and-luca-schiera-after-the-first-ascent-ever-of-the-west-face.jpg)

 

An account from Matteo della Bordella: Three years ago, at a round table in Lecco, the West face of Torre Egger was presented to me and Matteo Bernasconi “Berna” as possibly the last big wall of Patagonia still unclimbed. Climbing legends Mario Conti and Carlo Aldè* showed us the a few photos of the Egger West face and gave a little description of what we could find. This little information was enough to convince me and Berna to take on the challenge of opening the first route on this immaculate wall. With no experience of Patagonia I had no idea of what to expect, nevertheless I was super psyched for starting this new adventure.

During the winter 2010-2011 and 2011-2012 we tried our best to succeed on this wall, facing many extreme situations such as my fall on a belay which left both of us hanging on a single cam or the huge fall of ice and debris from the summit mushrooms that forced us to take some objective risks. We learned a lot about Patagonia, its mountains and its unpredictable weather and we also learned a lot about opening a new route on a big wall in such a remote place like this. We arrived at a high point just 30 meters below the Col de Lux which divides Punta Herron from Torre Egger and then decided to retreat due to the previously mentioned fall on the belay.

Just 30m from the submit little was missing to complete our route but still we had to go back in 2013 to properly finish the job. We thought of opening our team to a third person, in order to be lighter and safer on the wall. The first name who came to our minds was Luca Schiera (aged 22); a talented youngster from Lecco on his first extra-European experience.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/m-della-bordella-prepares-for-the-final-pitches-of-torre-egger.jpg?w=428&h=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/m-della-bordella-prepares-for-the-final-pitches-of-torre-egger.jpg)

After 35 days of staying in Chalten with mostly bad weather, Berna had to go back to Italy due to job commitments while Luca and I decide to give it a last try. Wednesday 20th of February we head to Circo los Altares and then to Filo Rosso where we pitch our tent and settle a small base camp. We wait for seven days through changeable weather for the right conditions to climb on the wall. Then finally on Thursday 28th February we start our final push.

The first day on the wall we partly re-climbed and partly jug on the old fixed ropes left from the previous year. We get to a point two pitches down from the highest point reached the previous year, where we spent a night bivying hanging on our harnesses. A truly magic night for Luca and me.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/topo-notti-magiche_magic-nights-low-res.jpg?w=480&h=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/topo-notti-magiche_magic-nights-low-res.jpg)Torre Egge West Face – showing the line. The following day, Friday 1st March, we opened four new pitches up to Col Giongo-Di Donà or Col Lux, following a different line from the one attempted last year. At 4pm we arrived at Col Lux where we melted some snow and prepared the bivy and finally took a little rest.

Saturday 2nd March was the summit day. We thought of opening an independent line to the top but in the end followed the Huber-Snarf route. At 11.20am, after a 1,000m long route, made up of thirty pitched (25 new independent ones and the last five shared with the Huber-Snarf route) we stood on the summit of Torre Egger. It is the moment I’ve desired and dreamt of for three long years. But we were aware that a long and complicate descent was expecting us. Sunday 3rd March we finally completed the descent and at 3.30pm we were back to our tent in Filo Rosso, bringing down all the fixed ropes we used.

We called the route “Notti Magiche” (magic nights) a name which ironically remembers the uncomfortable bivys but at the same time recall the magic Patagonian nights. The 2012 attempt which stopped 30 meters below the Col Lux, is truly an independent line, waiting to be finished and will remain with the original name of “Die Another Day”.

I want to remember that this route is the result of a big team effort and thus a team success. A team that goes beyond Berna, Luca and I and involves the whole Ragni group. Without the support and the trust of Ragni di Lecco and our sponsors, adidas outdoor, none of this would have been possible.

(http://feeds.wordpress.com/1.0/comments/climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2400/) (http://feeds.wordpress.com/1.0/gocomments/climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2400/) (http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com&blog=15956860&post=2400&subd=climbinggearreviewsuk&ref=&feed=1)

Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Matteo della Bordella and Luca Schiera, first ascent of Torre Egger West Face
Post by: comPiler on March 15, 2013, 12:00:14 pm
Matteo della Bordella and Luca Schiera, first ascent of Torre Egger West Face (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/03/14/2400/)
14 March 2013, 5:30 pm

Matteo della Bordella and Luca Schiera climb the first ascent of the Torre Egger West Face
Notti Magiche: 7a, A2, WI4 (1000 m)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/m-della-bordella-and-luca-schiera-after-the-first-ascent-ever-of-the-west-face.jpg?w=640&h=428) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/m-della-bordella-and-luca-schiera-after-the-first-ascent-ever-of-the-west-face.jpg)

An account from Matteo della Bordella: Three years ago, at a round table in Lecco, the West face of Torre Egger was presented to me and Matteo Bernasconi “Berna” as possibly the last big wall of Patagonia still unclimbed. Climbing legends Mario Conti and Carlo Aldè* showed us the a few photos of the Egger West face and gave a little description of what we could find. This little information was enough to convince me and Berna to take on the challenge of opening the first route on this immaculate wall. With no experience of Patagonia I had no idea of what to expect, nevertheless I was super psyched for starting this new adventure.

During the winter 2010-2011 and 2011-2012 we tried our best to succeed on this wall, facing many extreme situations such as my fall on a belay which left both of us hanging on a single cam or the huge fall of ice and debris from the summit mushrooms that forced us to take some objective risks. We learned a lot about Patagonia, its mountains and its unpredictable weather and we also learned a lot about opening a new route on a big wall in such a remote place like this. We arrived at a high point just 30 meters below the Col de Lux which divides Punta Herron from Torre Egger and then decided to retreat due to the previously mentioned fall on the belay.

Just 30m from the submit little was missing to complete our route but still we had to go back in 2013 to properly finish the job. We thought of opening our team to a third person, in order to be lighter and safer on the wall. The first name who came to our minds was Luca Schiera (aged 22); a talented youngster from Lecco on his first extra-European experience.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/m-della-bordella-prepares-for-the-final-pitches-of-torre-egger.jpg?w=428&h=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/m-della-bordella-prepares-for-the-final-pitches-of-torre-egger.jpg)

After 35 days of staying in Chalten with mostly bad weather, Berna had to go back to Italy due to job commitments while Luca and I decide to give it a last try. Wednesday 20th of February we head to Circo los Altares and then to Filo Rosso where we pitch our tent and settle a small base camp. We wait for seven days through changeable weather for the right conditions to climb on the wall. Then finally on Thursday 28th February we start our final push.

The first day on the wall we partly re-climbed and partly jug on the old fixed ropes left from the previous year. We get to a point two pitches down from the highest point reached the previous year, where we spent a night bivying hanging on our harnesses. A truly magic night for Luca and me.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/topo-notti-magiche_magic-nights-low-res.jpg?w=480&h=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/topo-notti-magiche_magic-nights-low-res.jpg)Torre Egger West Face – showing the line. The following day, Friday 1st March, we opened four new pitches up to Col Giongo-Di Donà or Col Lux, following a different line from the one attempted last year. At 4pm we arrived at Col Lux where we melted some snow and prepared the bivy and finally took a little rest.

Saturday 2nd March was the summit day. We thought of opening an independent line to the top but in the end followed the Huber-Snarf route. At 11.20am, after a 1,000m long route, made up of thirty pitched (25 new independent ones and the last five shared with the Huber-Snarf route) we stood on the summit of Torre Egger. It is the moment I’ve desired and dreamt of for three long years. But we were aware that a long and complicate descent was expecting us. Sunday 3rd March we finally completed the descent and at 3.30pm we were back to our tent in Filo Rosso, bringing down all the fixed ropes we used.

We called the route “Notti Magiche” (magic nights) a name which ironically remembers the uncomfortable bivys but at the same time recall the magic Patagonian nights. The 2012 attempt which stopped 30 meters below the Col Lux, is truly an independent line, waiting to be finished and will remain with the original name of “Die Another Day”.

I want to remember that this route is the result of a big team effort and thus a team success. A team that goes beyond Berna, Luca and I and involves the whole Ragni group. Without the support and the trust of Ragni di Lecco and our sponsors, adidas outdoor, none of this would have been possible.

(http://feeds.wordpress.com/1.0/comments/climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2400/) (http://feeds.wordpress.com/1.0/gocomments/climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2400/) (http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com&blog=15956860&post=2400&subd=climbinggearreviewsuk&ref=&feed=1)

Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Lakes Winter Climbing Conditions Report – Great End
Post by: comPiler on March 17, 2013, 12:00:13 pm
Lakes Winter Climbing Conditions Report – Great End (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/03/17/lakes-winter-climbing-conditions-report-great-end/)
17 March 2013, 8:58 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/haglofs-spire-winter.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/haglofs-spire-winter.jpg)

 

Dave and Rich head up into Great End Saturday saw us heading up into the ever popular Great End in thaw conditions.  Drizzle, turned to rain, turned to snow at about 600m, the snow pack was mushy all the way. The crag was plastered and all the gullies looked full and complete. Out plan was to have a look at Left Hand Corner, but it’s reliance on ice, buttress climbing and the warm snow pack put us off.  A wise decision looking at the wet snow that was sloughing off the slabs.

Rich hadn’t done South East Gully so that decision was made, we soloed up to the first awkward step where fortunately the snow was just consolidated enough to trust the placements.  The icicle was complete and gave good placements, but uninspiring screws (two stubbies were enough). Exiting the icicle gave some excitement as several tries were needed before finding a placement that you could commit to.

If the thaw continues you can hook the placements – there’s no need to ‘bray’ them as the ice feels a little fragile. There was plenty of snow avalanching off the slabs into the gully to keep the tension high and movement fast. This situation improved higher in the gully where the walls are steeper.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/haglofs-spire-jacket.jpg?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/haglofs-spire-jacket.jpg)Gently does it – committing to the thin looking icicle on SE Gully More rock steps and good gully climbing saw us at the top by just after midday – then tricky navigating in full whiteout saw us down for tea and hot cross buns at the hut. Descending was very slushy.

The current forecast is for another cooling down so if any of you are lucky enough to have some midweek time free the conditions will become very good again and should offer excellent neve and excellent ice. We didn’t see anyone following us up this great route – but heard plenty of teams in Central Gully. I feel SE Gully is better route, OK the ice pitch isn’t as long, but it’s steeper and definitely more committing, it also has some great shorter rock steps that require thrutching up so has more character. After the icicle pitch there is a good belay on the RH wall and after the rock step run out to find a belay on a small buttress on the right again.

Have a great week and climb safely,

Dave at the CGR team.

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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Walking and Trekking in Iceland – a Cicerone Guide Review
Post by: comPiler on March 17, 2013, 06:00:11 pm
Walking and Trekking in Iceland – a Cicerone Guide Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/03/17/walking-and-trekking-in-iceland-a-cicerone-guide-review/)
17 March 2013, 12:39 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/cicerone.jpg?w=300&h=176) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/cicerone.jpg)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/iceland-cover-sm.jpg?w=203&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/iceland-cover-sm.jpg)

I’ve always dreamed of trekking around Iceland and the opportunity to review this guide was just too good to miss.  I’ve been convinced that there must be some great rock and ice climbing so a trip is definitely on the cards.

This new guide by Paddy Dillon is the most up to date, English guide to the island and covers all the main hiking and trekking areas, from day walks around Reykjavik to multi day treks around all the main walking areas.

The introductions were very comprehensive and offered all the detail you would need to plan your trip, I was great to know that credit cards can be used on buses, you can phone hut wardens pay over the phone and get door codes, that buses are the best and cheapest way of getting around and the tip about needing a 4×4 and not a normal car is going to save you a lot of what would be very expensive grief. There is a comprehensive list of travel options at the back of the guide.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/647_sp.jpg?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/647_sp.jpg)

All the details you would need to plan your trip in detail were supplied, including website details and downloads. There is much detail on the fascinating geology, which is probably one of the main reasons for visiting the island. It was good to know that you can, with some careful planning, have a budget trip as Iceland is very expensive. The wild camping looked very appealing, although there are plenty of huts and campsites mentioned in the routes. The author has even created a short trek that on ly needs a day pack – ingenious! There was a good route summary for each walk at the back of the book but I would have liked to have seen a graded list of difficulty, this would help plan for al levels of ability.

The route descriptions are very detailed and there are plenty of maps to help you plan your trip as well as using on the trail, the book is fairly heavy so I wouldn’t want to be carrying it on a multi-day trek. I also felt that GPS reference points would be useful in some areas, although most treks and walks seem to be marked. But GPS devices are very much a part of a modern trekking and digital mapping was mentioned at all. I would never advocate using a GPS instead of a map and compass (I am mountain instructor after all), but a GPS system is useful and most of all, fun and can be a lifesaver.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/647_sp4.jpg?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/647_sp4.jpg)

All in all this is a great guide and a must for anyone planning that trip of a lifetime, Iceland is very accessible and a great trip can be had with a 2 week summer holiday, just a word of warning though, the weather can similar to that of the UK so be prepared!

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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Boreal Triglav Mountain Boot – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on March 22, 2013, 12:00:13 pm
Boreal Triglav Mountain Boot – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/03/22/boreal-triglav-mountain-boot-climbing-gear-review/)
22 March 2013, 9:46 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/boreal-new-logo.jpg?w=300&h=165) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/boreal-new-logo.jpg)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/boreal-triglav.png?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/boreal-triglav.png)

CGR test Boreal’s general purpose mountain boot for UK and Alpine use. Performance ****

Style *****

Value for Money ****

Rapid high mountain winter ascents. Long mountain traverses. Technical trekking. Superb light yet rugged 3-4 season mountain boot.
Although Borea (http://www.e-boreal.com/ing/comienzo.htm)l are well known for their rock climbing and approach shoes in the UK, it’s more difficult to find their mountain boots. For those of you who don’t know-Triglav is located in the Julian Alps and is the highest mountain in Slovenia and means ‘three headed peak’. There’s some gnarly looking ice adventures (http://www.flickr.com/photos/28443970@N04/3241225734/) to be found in the National Park.

I’ve been using the Ice Master, now named the Cerro Torre (http://www.e-boreal.com/PDF/Ing/mountain/cerrotorre.pdf) boot for technical ice climbing for several years now. I love the power strap and could never understand why more manufacturers didn’t utilise this lightweight and great feature. So I readily accepted to review a more general purpose mountain boot.

The boots have had a thorough testing as a family tragedy (and the rubbish summer through all of Europe) meant that I was unable to do much climbing, let alone testing during the summer of 2012.  So I’ve used them for two winters now for all my easy and intermediate mountaineering days. I’ve climbed quite happily up to winter grade 4 and have found them a great, all round mountain boot.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/triglav-scramble.jpg?w=640&h=360) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/triglav-scramble.jpg)A secure grip for scrambling and steep ground. Firstly the construction – they are a hybrid leather and fabric construction.  Sizing is from UK 6 – 12 in half sizes, it is important to try mountain boots on before you buy, a good retailer should spend some considerable time helping you find the right size boot.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/boreal-triglav.jpg?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/boreal-triglav.jpg)My feet stayed dry in snow and slush, The toe box and rand area are all 2.6 split leather. The rand isn’t complete but covers all the main areas of wear and hasn’t peeled off anywhere, it’s still looking as good as new. The tongue gusset and other areas of wear are reinforced with Lorica, a very tough and flexible synthetic leather. The main area of the boot is made with Termida – a very tough and abrasion resistant polymide fabric that is very breathable.  I’ve had these boots almost two years now and the fabric is showing no sign of wear whatsoever, so full marks on the fabric choice. All the lacing loops and hooks are riveted except for a fabric heel tightener, this is an area of concern as I have plenty of mountain boots fail at this point. It’s not showing any signs of wear yet, but it will be the first thing to fail and I feel should be replaced with a riveted hook for extra durability.

The boot comes in two models – the Triglav (http://www.e-boreal.com/PDF/Ing/mountain/triglav.pdf) and the Triglav Vibram (http://www.e-boreal.com/PDF/Ing/mountain/triglav01.pdf). The difference is not just in the choice of sole. The normal Triglav model can be fitted with either a wire bale or plastic bale crampon. The Vibram model will only take a plastic bale crampon, you also get a little extra grip with the normal model as there is an extra layer of rubber to grip the wire bale. I have had no problems with crampon attachment and I like the softer rubber on the lugs, it seems to really grip the crampon. The Vibram model has a slightly cleaner profile for rock climbing, but to be honest I have climbed in the normal model with no problems at all.

The boots were very comfortable to wear especially around the heel thanks to the padded Heel Fit Sytem.  The lateral support was very good with the TPS 3

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/triglav-winter.jpg?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/triglav-winter.jpg)Stiff enough for winter mixed climbing. unit, it has good grip for rock climbing and snow cleared out of the cleats with a simple tap of my axe. The stiffness was more than enough for short periods of steep ice climbing, although my calves began to tire after prolonged climbing at low angles. The boots were just too flexible for prolonged, steep ice climbing.

No-one can really guarantee a mountain boot keeping your feet dry. The membrane becomes clogged up with sweat salt, dust, grime and the membrane will eventually leak in the areas where the boot bends, However I’ve used the boots in plenty of deep snow, slush and rainy days and my feet have always been comfortable and reasonably dry, most of the time they have been completely dry.

The boots were fantastic for walking and trekking in, they felt very light on my feet: much lighter than my leather hiking boots. When I wore them for my tour of the Stubai Alps they were easily comfortable and coped great on glaciers, rock and through all alpine terrain. They have also performed very well in all the UK settings I have used them, which has been mostly winter mountaineering. For winter they have proved a great boot, plenty warm enough for routes where you are moving all the time.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/stubai-1.png?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/stubai-1.png)A great Alpine touring boot. If you mountaineer at the Scottish grade 3 with the odd Scottish grade 4, alpine climb AD and enjoy alpine tours and treks then these boots will not let you down, I would not recommend them for sustained ice routes. They have become my mountaineering boot of choice.

UK RRP: 209 GBP

Retailers: Peglers (http://www.peglers.co.uk/products/Boreal-Triglav.html)  Adventure Peaks (http://www.adventurepeaks.com/product/boreal_triglav_vibram_sole)

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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Haglöfs highlight thier new range for climbers this Spring – Gear News
Post by: comPiler on March 30, 2013, 12:00:15 pm
Haglöfs highlight thier new range for climbers this Spring – Gear News (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/03/30/haglofs-highlight-thier-new-range-for-climbers-this-spring-gear-news/)
30 March 2013, 10:05 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/haglc3b6fs_logo_basic-white-on-black.jpg?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/haglc3b6fs_logo_basic-white-on-black.jpg) CGR highlight thye new range for climbers from Swedish company  Haglöfs This Spring we visited the UK HQ at Haglöfs they have been working hard to produce some fantastic new pieces for the climbing world. Combining great functionality with brilliant colour, you are sure to make your mark on the rock face. Designed with the help of professional climbers to ensure that the usability is the base of every item.  Here we highjlight the pick of the crop for climbers this spring:

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/verdon-pic.png?w=640&h=426) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/verdon-pic.png) Roc Speed – 25L Climbing Pack (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/roc-speed.png?w=240&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/roc-speed.png)

A minimalistic lightweight climbing pack that has all the features you need for a day climbing in the Lake District, or the Alps, and won’t obstruct any movement. Made from super tough durable fabric, and in a great bright colour so you can be spotted on the mountainside.

Gram Jacket (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/gram-jkt.png?w=240&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/gram-jkt.png)

Looking for a superlight minimalist waterproof for those off days, then the Gram Jacket is the perfect option. Made with Gore-Tex Active for fantastic breathability on those faster ascents, or approaches into the crag.

Weighing only 320g (Size L) its perfect to stow in your Roc Speed for emergencies. And with the bright colours available, it doubles up as a safety piece if needed.

Vibe Tee (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/vibe-t.png?w=240&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/vibe-t.png)

The Vibe Tee is lightweight cotton feel tee in a fast drying recycled fabric. The looser fit makes it perfect for climbing. It combines flat lock seams, Polygiene technology and UPF 30+, and with the offset seams won’t rub if you have a pack on. It also looks great when you are down the pub post climb.

Essens Down Jacket (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/essens-down-jkt.png?w=240&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/essens-down-jkt.png)

In the cold early mornings, or in the shade belaying, you always need that little extra to keep you warm, the Essens Down Jacket is the ideal top for this. Made from recycled polyester and 100% traceable, Bluesign 750Cuin fill, and with great features for ease of movement, including a stretch panel around the shoulder, so you can be active in this garment too. It stows into its own pocket, which has a hanging loop for quickly putting the jacket on and off.

Lizard Pant (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/lizard-pant.png?w=240&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/lizard-pant.png)

This is what International Mountain Guide Bruce Goodlad has to say about Haglöfs climbing pants, when using them in the Alps.

The changing environment needs clothing and equipment that are up for the challenge; my clothing needs to be light and breathable but hard enough wearing to protect me from the elements. The cut needs to allow complete freedom of movement but not get in the way. Haglöfs soft shell is perfect for these conditions.
 

The Lizard Pant is a durable lightweight 4 way stretch pant. The membrane allows for wind and water resistance, and also breathability. The fit ensures reduced chances of chaffing, and with an integrated belt, zipped pockets and thigh pocket, these are perfect for climbing on those cooler days.

Bold, bright colours are definitely the continuing theme into 2013 so expect to see plenty of it in the shops, so be brave and get seen!

For Haglöfs stockists click here (http://www.haglofs.com/en-US/retailers/)

(http://feeds.wordpress.com/1.0/comments/climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2460/) (http://feeds.wordpress.com/1.0/gocomments/climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2460/) (http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com&blog=15956860&post=2460&subd=climbinggearreviewsuk&ref=&feed=1)

Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Haglöfs highlight their new range for climbers this Spring – Gear News
Post by: comPiler on March 31, 2013, 12:00:24 am
Haglöfs highlight their new range for climbers this Spring – Gear News (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/03/30/haglofs-highlight-thier-new-range-for-climbers-this-spring-gear-news/)
30 March 2013, 10:05 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/haglc3b6fs_logo_basic-white-on-black.jpg?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/haglc3b6fs_logo_basic-white-on-black.jpg) CGR highlight thye new range for climbers from Swedish company  Haglöfs This Spring we visited the UK HQ at Haglöfs they have been working hard to produce some fantastic new pieces for the climbing world. Combining great functionality with brilliant colour, you are sure to make your mark on the rock face. Designed with the help of professional climbers to ensure that the usability is the base of every item.  Here we highjlight the pick of the crop for climbers this spring:

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/verdon-pic.png?w=640&h=426) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/verdon-pic.png) Roc Speed – 25L Climbing Pack (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/roc-speed.png?w=240&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/roc-speed.png)

A minimalistic lightweight climbing pack that has all the features you need for a day climbing in the Lake District, or the Alps, and won’t obstruct any movement. Made from super tough durable fabric, and in a great bright colour so you can be spotted on the mountainside.

Gram Jacket (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/gram-jkt.png?w=240&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/gram-jkt.png)

Looking for a superlight minimalist waterproof for those off days, then the Gram Jacket is the perfect option. Made with Gore-Tex Active for fantastic breathability on those faster ascents, or approaches into the crag.

Weighing only 320g (Size L) its perfect to stow in your Roc Speed for emergencies. And with the bright colours available, it doubles up as a safety piece if needed.

Vibe Tee (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/vibe-t.png?w=240&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/vibe-t.png)

The Vibe Tee is lightweight cotton feel tee in a fast drying recycled fabric. The looser fit makes it perfect for climbing. It combines flat lock seams, Polygiene technology and UPF 30+, and with the offset seams won’t rub if you have a pack on. It also looks great when you are down the pub post climb.

Essens Down Jacket (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/essens-down-jkt.png?w=240&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/essens-down-jkt.png)

In the cold early mornings, or in the shade belaying, you always need that little extra to keep you warm, the Essens Down Jacket is the ideal top for this. Made from recycled polyester and 100% traceable, Bluesign 750Cuin fill, and with great features for ease of movement, including a stretch panel around the shoulder, so you can be active in this garment too. It stows into its own pocket, which has a hanging loop for quickly putting the jacket on and off.

Lizard Pant (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/lizard-pant.png?w=240&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/lizard-pant.png)

This is what International Mountain Guide Bruce Goodlad has to say about Haglöfs climbing pants, when using them in the Alps.

The changing environment needs clothing and equipment that are up for the challenge; my clothing needs to be light and breathable but hard enough wearing to protect me from the elements. The cut needs to allow complete freedom of movement but not get in the way. Haglöfs soft shell is perfect for these conditions.


The Lizard Pant is a durable lightweight 4 way stretch pant. The membrane allows for wind and water resistance, and also breathability. The fit ensures reduced chances of chaffing, and with an integrated belt, zipped pockets and thigh pocket, these are perfect for climbing on those cooler days.

Bold, bright colours are definitely the continuing theme into 2013 so expect to see plenty of it in the shops, so be brave and get seen!

For Haglöfs stockists click here (http://www.haglofs.com/en-US/retailers/)

(http://feeds.wordpress.com/1.0/comments/climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2460/) (http://feeds.wordpress.com/1.0/gocomments/climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2460/) (http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com&blog=15956860&post=2460&subd=climbinggearreviewsuk&ref=&feed=1)

Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Haglöfs hilight their new range for climbers this Spring – Gear News
Post by: comPiler on April 07, 2013, 01:00:09 pm
Haglöfs hilight their new range for climbers this Spring – Gear News (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/03/30/haglofs-highlight-thier-new-range-for-climbers-this-spring-gear-news/)
30 March 2013, 10:05 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/haglc3b6fs_logo_basic-white-on-black.jpg?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/haglc3b6fs_logo_basic-white-on-black.jpg) CGR hilight the new range for climbers from Swedish company  Haglöfs This Spring we visited the UK HQ at Haglöfs. They have been working hard to produce some fantastic new pieces for the climbing world. Combining great functionality with brilliant colour, you are sure to make your mark on the rock face. Designed with the help of professional climbers to ensure that the usability is the base of every item.  Here we hilight the pick of the crop for climbers this Spring:

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/verdon-pic.png?w=640&h=426) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/verdon-pic.png) Roc Speed – 25L Climbing Pack (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/roc-speed.png?w=240&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/roc-speed.png)

A minimalistic lightweight climbing pack that has all the features you need for a day climbing in the Lake District, or the Alps, and won’t obstruct any movement. Made from super tough durable fabric, and in a great bright colour so you can be spotted on the mountainside.

Gram Jacket (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/gram-jkt.png?w=240&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/gram-jkt.png)

Looking for a superlight minimalist waterproof for those off days, then the Gram Jacket is the perfect option. Made with Gore-Tex Active for fantastic breathability on those faster ascents, or approaches into the crag.

Weighing only 320g (Size L) its perfect to stow in your Roc Speed for emergencies. And with the bright colours available, it doubles up as a safety piece if needed.

Vibe Tee (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/vibe-t.png?w=240&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/vibe-t.png)

The Vibe Tee is lightweight cotton feel tee in a fast drying recycled fabric. The looser fit makes it perfect for climbing. It combines flat lock seams, Polygiene technology and UPF 30+, and with the offset seams won’t rub if you have a pack on. It also looks great when you are down the pub post climb.

Essens Down Jacket (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/essens-down-jkt.png?w=240&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/essens-down-jkt.png)

In the cold early mornings, or in the shade belaying, you always need that little extra to keep you warm, the Essens Down Jacket is the ideal top for this. Made from recycled polyester and 100% traceable, Bluesign 750Cuin fill, and with great features for ease of movement, including a stretch panel around the shoulder, so you can be active in this garment too. It stows into its own pocket, which has a hanging loop for quickly putting the jacket on and off.

Lizard Pant (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/lizard-pant.png?w=240&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/lizard-pant.png)

This is what International Mountain Guide Bruce Goodlad has to say about Haglöfs climbing pants, when using them in the Alps.

The changing environment needs clothing and equipment that are up for the challenge; my clothing needs to be light and breathable but hard enough wearing to protect me from the elements. The cut needs to allow complete freedom of movement but not get in the way. Haglöfs soft shell is perfect for these conditions.


The Lizard Pant is a durable lightweight 4 way stretch pant. The membrane allows for wind and water resistance, and also breathability. The fit ensures reduced chances of chaffing, and with an integrated belt, zipped pockets and thigh pocket, these are perfect for climbing on those cooler days.

Bold, bright colours are definitely the continuing theme into 2013 so expect to see plenty of it in the shops, so be brave and get seen!

For Haglöfs stockists click here (http://www.haglofs.com/en-US/retailers/)

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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Arc’teryx Haku Ropebag- Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on April 14, 2013, 01:00:15 pm
Arc’teryx Haku Ropebag- Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/04/14/arcteryx-haku-ropebag-climbing-gear-review/)
14 April 2013, 8:28 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx.jpg?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx.jpg)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/arcteryx-haku-rope-bag.png?w=223&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/arcteryx-haku-rope-bag.png)

GCR tests the new and innovative Haku ropebag from Arc’teryx. I’ve tried plenty of ropebags in my time: bits of carpet,  plastic sheet, Ikea bags, plastic ‘trugg’ buckets and of course bought ropebags. I would always recommend you keep your rope protected from the ground and dust. You would be astonished at how deep dust gets into a rope, this in turn affects its strength and efficiency. So a rope bag is a wise purchase, it will prolong the life of a rope and help keep it in peak performance.

Arc’teryx (http://www.arcteryx.com/Home.aspx?language=EN) have had a ropebag in their product range for many years and it was seen as very much at the luxury end and the Haku (http://www.arcteryx.com/product.aspx?model=Haku-Rope-Bag&language=EN) is made is a similar fashion. Quality materials, workmanship and a brand new design make for a very desirable piece of kit. Haku is Hawiian for ‘invent’ and Arc’teryx feel they have an innovative new design in this new ropebag for 2013.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/p1030483.jpg?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/p1030483.jpg)Arcteryx Haku, great for keeping your rope organised. The Haku ropebag (http://www.arcteryx.com/product.aspx?model=Haku-Rope-Bag&language=EN) is designed to be very easy to use and once I got used to it was a joy. I could just funnel the rope back into the bag and using the internal carry strap carry it between routes. I could either feed the rope back out of the bag – which is what I did when training at the climbing wall – or redeploy it on the tarp for redpointing and on-sighting outside. So it was a little different to scooping the rope up in a tarp and transporting it between routes, but then I didn’t have to faff around with bits of rope falling out of the sides.

As long as I tied the rope into the red tab it was always to hand. Although feeding the rope out at the wall worked reasonably well, I wouldn’t want to be feeding it out on my mate’s redpoint as it did have some tangles. So I would always re-deploy the rope into the tarp thus avoiding sheepish looks when your mate is tugging for his clip!

It was just a case of pulling the rope through onto the large tarp and I was ready to go. The rope bag differs to normal ropebag design as you do not roll the rope up in the tarp and then into a bag. With the Haku you just hold the tarp up and funnel the rope through the central hole and into the bag. You then push the tarp on top of the rope in the bag.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/p1030484.jpg?w=300&h=225) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/p1030484.jpg)The large tarp has a hole in the middle. The rope slides through into the bag. Once that is done, roll the top down as tight as it will go and clip both ends, this can then be adjusted and tightened with the carry strap. The carry strap did not come with any padding and was very narrow. I found the rope bag was OK for the carry in to Malham, but for longer periods I would really want to have it in my pack.  It’s compact size meant it fitted comfortably into my 35L pack with 60m of rope and I still had room for kit and some extra clothing.  It struggled a little in my 30L pack, especially on colder days when I had to pack more. It did hold 70m of rope comfortably but again this was beginning to be a struggle to push it into my 35L pack.

The Arc’teryx Haku ropebag (http://www.arcteryx.com/product.aspx?model=Haku-Rope-Bag&language=EN) was a joy to use, especially in situations where I was continually moving the rope around between routes. The rope was manageable and the large tarp kept it off the dust and grime. High quality materials and workmanship, all the hallmarks of Arc’reyx products, makes this an affordable 5 star Arc’teryx product.

RRP 40GBP

Stockists (http://www.arcteryx.com/Home.aspx?language=EN)

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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Climbing News – Patagonia Presents Climbing Ambassador Evening with UK Alpine Climber Matt Helliker
Post by: comPiler on April 16, 2013, 07:00:22 pm
Climbing News – Patagonia Presents Climbing Ambassador Evening with UK Alpine Climber Matt Helliker (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/04/16/climbing-news-patagonia-presents-climbing-ambassador-evening-with-uk-alpine-climber-matt-helliker/)
16 April 2013, 1:51 pm

Climbing Ambassador Evening with UK Alpine Climber Matt Helliker (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/logo.jpg?w=640&h=128) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/logo.jpg)

Event – Climbing Ambassador Evening with UK Alpine Climber Matt Helliker

Date – Tuesday 30th April 19.30pm

Location – Patagonia Flagship London Store

Address – 6A Langley Street, WC2H 9JA

Tickets available to buy in store for £10

Outdoor brand Patagonia are pleased to be hosting an evening with Matt Helliker for all those climbing enthusiasts.

Matt and his long term climbing partner Jon Bracey made a first ascent on one of the world’s biggest Alpine faces climbing a stunning and formidable route to the Summit of Mount Hunter in Alaska in 2011. Matt will be talking through this unforgettable experience and also about his highly successful and award winning climbing dvd Moonflower.

(http:// width=640 height=905]http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/moonflower4.jpg?w=640&h=905[/url]

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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Black Diamond Siren Harness – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on April 17, 2013, 07:00:17 pm
Black Diamond Siren Harness – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/04/17/black-diamond-siren-harness-climbing-gear-review/)
17 April 2013, 5:13 pm

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(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/bd-siren.png?w=300&h=286) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/bd-siren.png)

CGR reviewer Katie Mundy tests out the new female specific climbing harness from Black Diamond. Value for money: ***** Quality: ***** Performance: **** (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/black-diamond-siren-harness-fitting.jpg?w=384&h=575) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/black-diamond-siren-harness-fitting.jpg)

So with the day light staying longer and the lack of snow, my positive thinking self is starting to believe that spring is on the way…maybe;  And with spring comes sport climbing.  I’m too much of a softy to do it until its t-shirt weather.   Well we happened to have had a tiny glimpse of it the other day, so I rushed out to the crag for a spot of climbing.  I’m testing the Black Diamond Siren  (http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-gb/shop/climb/harnesses/siren-harness)harness.  A light weight harness designed specifically for women.

At the moment I have a super padded harness that’s perfect for hanging around when my climbing partners are projecting, but it’s pretty heavy and can get a little sweaty in the heat, so I was keen to see what this one would be like.

Well the first thing is, it weighs nothing!  OK if we’re being technical it weighs 312g (11oz), but honestly its light as a feather, and this is a nice change.  I never really noticed with my other harness the difference the weight made until I tried this lighter one, and yes, no surprises, it’s a bonus; I haven’t yet gone up a grade because of it, but any help is a good thing – just think British Cylcling ‘Marginal Gains’ theory.

The waist belt was easy to adjust when putting on, but I found it fiddly to tuck the tail end in, and tricky to adjust when that was secured.  So easy to put on, but not so easy to get off, especially when your arms are more like jelly worms after a hard day’s climbing.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/black-diamond-siren-harness-closup.jpg?w=384&h=575) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/black-diamond-siren-harness-closup.jpg)

I’m trying a size small in the Siren harness and I’m a size 8, it fits pretty well, but an XS would have been a good fit too, so if you’ve got a small waist and are verging on a 6-8 you may want to go for the smaller size.

Now the leg loop adjustments; really I didn’t think I could get excited about something like this, but, well, I did.  They’re just so easy to use!  No faffing, no extra bits to tuck in; just slid the little toggle along and bob’s your uncle!  This is the stuff I like to see; this is the stuff that makes you buy a new harness, clever thinking that makes your life just that tiny bit less stressful.

Moving on to the ‘Bombshell abrasion patches’;  BD have said they’re 20 times more durable than normal fabrics.  Logically this makes sense as it’s smooth and less likely to chaff, and I’m sure if I was doing long routes, hanging around wearing it all day this would start to come into play.  But for your average sport climber (me) I don’t think it makes much difference other than it’s always nice to know they’ve thought of everything, and if I do decide to take on the big walls, well I’ll be more than prepared.

With every harness I’ve had, I’ve been slightly annoyed with one thing, and that’s the fact that if you need an XS harness they give you 3 gear loops.  Why?  Just because I’m smaller doesn’t mean I’ll use less gear!  So I end up with the front of my harness totally weighed down, with really bad weight distribution.

The Siren harness  (http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-gb/shop/climb/harnesses/siren-harness)is thankfully slightly different, as with the leg loops, just a subtle difference but one that takes down the stress level that bit more.  There are two loops with dividers down the middle, separating the gear so it doesn’t all congregate in one place and distributing the weight more evenly.  I still think if I was doing Trad I may want separate loops and more of them evenly placed around the waist, but for Sport this seems perfectly okay.  Mainly I didn’t feel like a little child whose gear loops were just for show.

The waist belt is woman specific, ‘Bullhorn shaped’ is the term; In my words, it fitted really well, it didn’t cut into my waist when I was hanging around and it sat snugly when climbing. It uses a Dual Core XP construction, which translated means comfortable and durable.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/black-diamond-siren-harness-climbing.jpg?w=200&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/black-diamond-siren-harness-climbing.jpg)

Obviously it’s not all about how it feels climbing, we all have to be on the other end of the rope sometimes, and sometimes that means for a looong time.   Well this is where my previous super deluxe mattress harness starts to take the lead.  The leg loops are comfortable to a certain extent with the Siren (http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-gb/shop/climb/harnesses/siren-harness), and it honestly wasn’t too bad, but they were cutting off the circulation a bit by minute 5 of being a human weight bag.  But then you can’t have everything, and if the harness was more padded, well it would be more sweaty on those lovely warm days out (I sort of remember them).   And this harness isn’t sweaty, it’s light and breathable.

So when it comes down to it I only have one gripe, and that’s releasing the waist belt;  Well a little bit more thinking could go into that, but I’m sure they’ll get there.  It certainly isn’t a deal breaker.

The main thing is, it’s light, super light, and for what it weighs it’s definitely comfortable enough.

It’s also pretty good looking, it comes in two colours, mine is in Daiquiri (green with electric blue belay loop) but it also comes in Aruba Fire (that’s turquoise and red).  I’ll definitely be taking it on some trips this year to give it a really good run for its money, which by the by isn’t all that much.  For around £60.00 you can’t really argue.    It’s a well thought out piece of equipment which doesn’t ask for your life savings in return, and I’m happy to give it a big thumbs up.

RRP £59.99

For stockists click here (http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-gb/dealers)

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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Climbing Hard Shells – A Climbing Gear Reviews Buyers Guide.
Post by: comPiler on April 21, 2013, 01:00:16 pm
Climbing Hard Shells – A Climbing Gear Reviews Buyers Guide. (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/04/21/climbing-hard-shells-a-climbing-gear-reviews-buyers-guide/)
21 April 2013, 8:55 am

A Hard Shell (unless you’re the eternal optimist) is an essential piece of mountain kit for climbers. Hopefully it stays in the pack but there are occasions when you will need to wear one – if it’s windy, if the clag is down at the top of your route, when the clag is down when you’re on the route or when you’re winter climbing.

You could use a softshell jacket (and I own and have reviewed several,) but they do have their drawbacks. Firstly they are not entirely windproof, unless you have a membrane softshell (which is really a hardshell) the wind will get through and chill you down; secondly they are not entirely waterproof. Even a membrane softshell will leak, as many don’t have taped seams.

A versatile alternative to a softshell is a fleece and hardshell combination, this means that you get maximum breathability walking to the route and maximum wind and water protection on the route and when walking down (it’s happened to us all, that optimistic walk up in the dry just to get rained on later!).

So what should you look for when choosing the ideal hardshell for climbing?

Number one is fit and arm movement, if it restricts your ability to reach for holds or axe placements then it’s not fit for purpose. When you try the jacket on, swing your arms around and see it the jacket hem rises when you reach up, you’re looking for minimal movement. Even better wear a harness and check for movement, there should be none. Some jackets, such as the Arc’teryx Alpha SV and LT, have an integrated hem-lock feature which helps to keep the hem neatly seated under a harness.

You are looking for some abrasion resistance because if you decide you are climbing in it you will need it to last and not get ripped to pieces. There is a trade off between durability and lightness. Your shell may spend most of its life in your pack so you want it compressible and light. Gore Tex Active Shield is a great fabric, Polartec Neo Shell is also proving popular as is Event. Gore Tex Windstopper is also making a comeback. The new breed of ‘hybrid hardshells’ are a great way of providing durability and lightness. High wear areas are made with abrasion resistant fabric and the rest from lighter fabrics.

Cuffs are an area worth looking at, the tabs need to easy to use with gloves on, they also need to provide a tight seal if your are wearing gloves over the top. If you are tucking your gloves in then the sleeve hems should be wide enough to do this. Personally for winter climbing I’m changing gloves at every belay so look for a nice tight seal.

The hood is another area that needs careful attention. It must be absolutely helmet compatible so wear one when you are trying a jacket on! When the hood is done up it should move with your head in all directions. All adjustment pulls should be easy to use with gloves on and these are often an issue we’ve had when reviewing clothing items. Wired peaks are best but are becoming hard to find!  I find myself wearing the hood all the time when winter climbing and if you want it to stay on your head instead of flopping down and filling up with powder snow then pay attention to it.

Pockets – I often find hand warmer pockets unnecessary. I would prefer a dedicated climbing jacket to have one large Napoleon style pocket to access topos, gloves, etc. I often stuff gloves down the front of the jacket for easy access. Pit zips are also a personal choice, mine is that they are again unnecessary. If I’m walking uphill to the crag and it’s raining I’m often turning round and heading for the pub!

Finally the zips – these are very much a tricky area that can all too easily let a great jacket down. They should be easy to use with gloves on or cold, wet hands. Too often the pull tabs are not large enough and hard to locate. I just prefer a plain Vislon zip with a water blocker and a good solid draft guard. I’m a realist and understand that the water will leak in via the zip, but I’m not expecting to stay totally dry, just warm and damp. I’ve had a lot of trouble with zips on very expensive jackets, it’s annoying and shouldn’t be a problem.

So there we have it that’s our guide to what you should look for in a climbing hardshell. We have scoured the market and come up with a selection of hardshells we think fit the bill:

The North Face Anti Matter (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/tnf-anti-matter-jkt.jpg?w=384&h=448) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/tnf-anti-matter-jkt.jpg)

One of the lightest climbing shells on the market (319g). Created from a hybrid fabric construction of 2L and seam-taped 3L Gore Windstopper® Active Shell, the Anti-Matter Jacket cuts weight and bulk, while providing durable, abrasion-resistant protection and maximum freedom of  movement. 100% windproof, highly water-resistant and extremely breathable. Features climbing-specific fit, helmet-compatible hood with laminated and wired peak, hybrid alpine pockets/pit zips and nonabrasive, moulded cuff tabs.

Weight 305g

RRP £300

Marmot Speedri (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/marmot-speedri-jkt.png?w=296&h=461)

FusionDri is a brand new waterproof/breathable membrane technology that Marmot has been helping to develop over the past three years. Marmot is the first brand to market with this new technology and I have no doubt we will see other brands using this technology format as an alternative to Gore’s wide range of performance products.

The confirmed statistics for this new technology are Breathability: 50,000gm/24hrs and waterproof level of 20,000mm. The FusionDri technology also incorporates a wicking backer to the inside of the jacket. This wicking backer helps pull moisture away from your body leaving you more comfortable when enduring high aerobic activity.

Weight 394g

RRP £270

Haglofs Spire Jacket (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/haglofs-spire-jkt.png?w=321&h=401) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/haglofs-spire-jkt.png)

A reinforced Gore-Tex® Active Shell Jacket that is extremely breathable and durable, with details such as mountain helmet compatible hood and two chest pockets. Inner membrane protection is incorporated into the fabric, so no mesh lining is needed thus saving weight. Elegant pattern construction and the low bulk fabric combine to reduce weight and bulk. DWR treated surfaces. 3 way adjustable mountain helmet compatible hood. 2 way main zip with chin guard and weather guard behind. Two mid mounted chest pockets with venting internal construction. Articulated sleeves with Velcro cuff adjustment. Single handed waist hem cord adjustment. Rear hanging loop (handy for the drying room - Ed).

Weight 380g

RRP £320

Patagonia Torrent Shell Plus (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/patagonia-torrent-shellplus.png?w=360&h=360) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/patagonia-torrent-shellplus.png)

The Great Western Loop takes you from high mountain passes to enchanted deserts and Pacific rainforests, and calls for serious stamina in your legs as well as your gear. Made for devoted backpackers and trekkers, our new Torrentshell Plus Jacket delivers durability with H2No Performance Standard 2.5-layer waterproof/breathable nylon ripstop fabric that’s reinforced through the shoulders and side. The rain jacket also has a 2-way-adjustable hood, with laminated visor, that rolls down and stows. The center-front zipper is watertight-coated, with an internal storm flap, and the Deluge® DWR-treated pit zips have welted exterior storm flaps. Pockets: two welted, zippered handwarmers with DWR-treated zips, and an internal drop-in mesh pocket. Other details include self-fabric hook-and-loop cuff closures, an adjustable drawcord hem and a self-stuff handwarmer pocket with carabiner clip-in loop. Deluge DWR (durable water repellent) finish.

Weight 337g

RRP £130.

Lowe Alpine Taiga Jacket (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/lowe-alpine-taiga-jkt.png?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/lowe-alpine-taiga-jkt.png)

Lowe Alpine are having a major revamp of their whole clothing collection so it’s great to see them back in action with a dedicated Alpine jacket.

Details:  Triplepoint® AP 3L fabric. Waterproof, windproof, breathable with taped seams. Helmet-compatible hood, wired peak, roll-down hook and loop tab. 2-way YKK Aquaguard® front zip, internal storm flap, rain drain. Tricot-lined collar. 2 YKK Aquaguard® zipped Napoleon chest pockets. 2 YKK® zipped internal mesh pockets. Adjustable hook and loop cuffs. Hem drawcord. Alpine fit.

Triplepoint® AP utilises the latest technology from GE to provide one of the best breathable / waterproof fabrics in the world. At its heart is a microporous  ePTFE membrane protected by a patented surface treatment. Combine this layer with unique construction methods, plus durable face fabrics chosen specifically by Lowe Alpine and you have a system that offers 100% protection from driving rain, yet gives unrivalled breathability performance.

Weight 440g

RRP £230

So remember, a hardshell is an essential piece of mountain kit. Hopefully it will stay in your pack but if you do need to use it make sure it performs well and it won’t let you down. What do you look for in a climbing hardshell? Let us know in the comments below.

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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Arc’teryx Quintic 38 Rucksack – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on April 22, 2013, 01:00:12 pm
Arc’teryx Quintic 38 Rucksack – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/04/22/arcteryx-quintic-38-rucksack-climbing-gear-review/)
22 April 2013, 10:11 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx.jpg?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/arcteryx_quintic38_carboncopy_s13.jpg?w=300&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/arcteryx_quintic38_carboncopy_s13.jpg)  The ski touring season is in full flow so Kev grabs his skis and heads to the Vanoise region of the French Alps to find out if the Arc’teryx Quintic 38, really is the best ski touring pack… Value for money: **** Quality: ***** Performance: ***** Arc’teryx describe the Quintic 38 as a : “Comfortable, robust backpack with contoured back panel and ski/snowboard wrap system; Ideal for backcountry day tours.”

They go on to say: “This 38 litre pack is a steadfast partner for backcountry and close-to-area tours and features a lowered, wide, flat body of the pack that is shaped to the contours of the lumbar vertebrae and that holds and transfers the pack’s load through the body’s centre of gravity. Stable support and with easy access to items in the main compartment while in transit, this is a skier’s/snowboarder’s tool kit. Separate compartments keep shovel, safety gear, food and extras balanced and organized, and a reinforced, external wrap system is robust enough to carry skis and boards (A-frame, split and diagonal carry of skis; horizontal and vertical carry for snowboard). This pack is large enough to accommodate all your necessities for day tours.”

My attention was drawn towards the Arc’teryx Quintic packs as, during the run-up to the 2012/13 winter season, the Quintic 28 (the 38′s little brother) had been hitting the headlines and scooping up the awards. With ski touring being very much on my agenda for late season, I was after a pack that would tick the boxes for days off piste and more importantly, hut to hut tours. I opted for the larger 38 pack for this reason. I’ve tested the Quintic 38 when it’s been partially loaded; days off piste etc and also when it’s been fully loaded; hut to hut tours and the like.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/564713_154506024716589_1158066438_n1.jpg?w=640&h=426) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/564713_154506024716589_1158066438_n1.jpg)A quick navigation stop! The Arc’teryx Quintic 38 in use whilst ski touring in the Vanoise National Park. First impression of the Quintic 38 when I got it was that it seemed ‘big’! And it is a roomy pack, well capable of holding everything I need for a 5 or 6 night hut to hut ski tour. I was a little concerned that it may be a bit too big and not carry particularly well when not fully loaded, but these concerns were soon forgotten when I put it on my back and started skiing!

The Quintic 38 is certainly a fully featured pack and has everything the modern day backcountry skier (or snowboarder) could want. There is a dedicated shovel and probe pocket, ample room for crampons, harscheissen (ski crampons), skins, ice axe, pocket for goggles, stash pockets for your valuables, key loop, roomy main compartment and easy access side compartment. The Quintic 38 is also hydration compatible and has a simple strap system for carrying skis or a snowboard (A-frame, split and diagonal carry of skis; horizontal and vertical carry for snowboard).

One of the things that really attracted me to the Quintic 38 was the way it was supposed to sit on your back and carry whilst skiing. Arc’teryx say that the back is lowered so it’s wide at the bottom and it is flat, so it fits the contours of your back. As such it transfers the pack’s load through the body’s centre of gravity and is very stable to carry. I’m definitely not the best skier in the world and skiing off piste with a big heavy bag on my back isn’t the sort of thing that really helps. In the past I’ve used standard climbing packs such as a Cierzo 35 and while they work ok, I do feel they are a bit top heavy for my liking and put me even more on the back foot when I’m skiing. I found the Quintic 38 carried superbly and it really did feel comfortable to ski with. Even when fully loaded it didn’t feel like it was trying to pull me backwards off my skis! And although I had initial reservations about whether it would flap around on my back when I didn’t have much in it, that wasn’t the case at all.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/ski.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/ski.jpg)The Arc’teryx Quintic 38 carried well whilst skiing and felt nicely balanced on my back. Here it’s put through it’s paces carrying a full load and skiing great powder in the trees on a descent into Courchevel at the end of a great few days touring. Looking at the carrying system in more detail, the Quintic has a removable frame sheet contained inside an anatomically patterned sleeve that conforms to the curve of the back when fully loaded, and this as I mentioned previously, does work. The whole system feels quite substantial and I suppose the only downside I can see here is that, it’s not the lightest. There is also a waist belt and adjustable removable sternum strap which helps keep the pack stable and also spread the load. The back panel is as breathable as any other pack I’ve used and the laminated shoulder straps comfortable even when only wearing a t-shirt.

The pack has numerous compartments for your kit. Arc’teryx say that there is ample room for all your kit for day tours but I’d go further than this. I think a pack of this size is easily big enough for week long hut to hut tours. I used it on a week long tour in the Vanoise national park and happily carried everything I needed for the week. Granted I was staying in huts so didn’t need to carry a sleeping bag, shelter or stove but I think with careful packing I could fit these in.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/892912_10151609191929048_1925895466_o.jpg?w=640&h=360) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/892912_10151609191929048_1925895466_o.jpg)At the Col d’Aussois on the way to Refuge Dent Parachee. The Arc’teryx Quintic 38 is perfect for hut to hut ski tours. As well as the main compartment, which opens via a front U-zip and easily houses shovel, probe and other essentials, there is a side accessed  large compartment, perfect for those overnight essentials, and also a smaller side accessed compartment, great for those on the move necessities such as energy bars, spare gloves and extra clothing. All compartments are accessed by high quality zippers with glove friendly zipper tabs. The two side accessed compartments are designed so that you can actually access them without taking the pack off and whilst this does work (I tried) I found it easier to take the pack off, particularly if I had to rummage around a bit.

One final thing I’d like to say about the Quintic is that the fabric seems absolutely bombproof, almost excessively so! And whilst this leads to a super durable piece of kit, it does also lead to an increase in weight, which is my only minor criticism of the pack. But for £170 you don’t want it falling apart after a few ski tours and I think I can safely say that it won’t! It’s just the high quality you’d expect from Arc’teryx.

So, all in all a fantastic pack! I love the Quintic 38, it’s got all the features and storage I need for hut to hut ski tours, but isn’t over the top for day hits as well. It carries superbly and quality is everything you’d expect from Arc’teryx and the price tag. A five star product.

Price: £170



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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Arc’teryx Quiq Hoody – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on April 22, 2013, 01:00:14 pm
Arc’teryx Quiq Hoody – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/04/22/arcteryx-quiq-hoody-climbing-gear-review/)
22 April 2013, 10:47 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx1.jpg?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx1.jpg)  (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/s13-quiq-hoody-blue-onyx.jpg?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/s13-quiq-hoody-blue-onyx.jpg) James Parkinson heads out on the local crags to test the Arc’teryx Quiq Hoody… Performance – *****

Style – ****

Value for money – ***

The Arc’teryx 24 range is a collection of relaxed leisure wear designed for rock climbing, travel or just going to the pub. A core piece in this collection is the Quiq hoody.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/p1070029.jpg?w=576&h=1024) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/p1070029.jpg)James Parkinson sporting the Arc’teryx Quiq Hoody whilst out bouldering at Caley Crag. Made from Apgar™, a stretchy cotton blend fabric, the first thing I noticed about the Quiq was the quality. As you’d expect from Arc’teryx, it is first class and with a retail price of £90, you’d hope so too! With a reasonably close and anatomical fit, the Quiq isn’t from the big, baggy, skater hoody mould but is actually fairly smart. I’ve worn it on an impromptu evening out to some fairly nice bars (nice for the CGR team, anyway) and not felt out of place.

The collar and hood were a couple of things that might take some getting used to; the tall collar styling is quite unorthodox and the hood is enormous! Good for pulling up over a helmet if you feel the need on a cool evening’s cragging or for living out your Jedi knight fantasies.

In action, I found that the stretchy fabric didn’t restrict climbing movement at all, despite the closeness of the fit. The gusseted underarms help in this respect too and the cuffs are nicely elasticated if you want to pull them up your forearms. The close fit means that the Quiq layers well under a shell or insulating jacket and the Apgar™ fabric breathes fairly well too, meaning the hoody can be used as a comfortable mid layer for various activities.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/p1070031.jpg?w=576&h=1024) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/p1070031.jpg)James Parkinson sporting the Arc’teryx Quiq Hoody whilst out bouldering at Caley Crag The kangaroo pocket on the front is lined and so thicker than the rest of the hoody meaning that hands can stay warm in between attempts at your project. It is also handy for stashing bits and pieces for the walk in.

Arc’teryx recommend washing in cold water or even dry cleaning but I have put it through a 40? wash a couple of times now with no ill effects. Much simpler than faffing about at the dry cleaners!

Available in four colours – Blue Onyx, Demarara, Utility Green and Wood Violet – the Quiq hoody is a great piece of everyday or climbing clothing with the quality you’d expect from Arc’teryx. At about twice the price of many hoodies on the market, it isn’t cheap but if you splash out, you won’t be disappointed.

Price: £90

To find out more about the Arc’teryx Quiq Hoody and where to buy it, visit the Arc’teryx website. (http://www.arcteryx.com/product.aspx?language=EN&gender=Mens&model=Quiq-Hoody)

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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: adidas Terrex Fleece – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on April 29, 2013, 07:00:13 pm
adidas Terrex Fleece – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/04/29/adidas-terrex-fleece-climbing-gear-review/)
29 April 2013, 3:29 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/adidas20logo.gif?w=269&h=197) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/adidas20logo.gif) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/terrex-tx-fleece-j.png?w=290&h=408) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/terrex-tx-fleece-j.png)

Dave tests the new adidas Terrex Fleece in variety of mountain activities to see if it helps him become a German über climber! Performance *****

Style ****

Value ***

Specifically designed for high-performance outdoor comfort, the men’s adidas Terrex Fleece Jacket keeps you going strong with a stretchy FORMOTION® fit, allover moisture-wicking, and breathable insulation. The Cocona® fabric has a hydrophilic finish and is rated for 50+ SPF UV protection.
In 2012 we reviewed the adidas Terrex Hybrid Softshell (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/10/20/adidas-terrex-pro-hybrid-jacket-climbing-gear-review/)and  Adidas continue their assault on the UK Outdoor Clothing market with a full range of climbing and mountaineering clothing. In our 2012 review we predicted that we would see more Adidas apparel in outdoor retailers as well as their dedicated shops around the UK.

The adidas Terrex Fleece (http://www.adidas.co.uk/Men's-TERREX-Fleece-Jacket/Z09590_340,en_GB,pd.html?cgid=&cm_vc=SEARCH)is not what you would consider a normal ‘furry’ fleece. I would say it’s more of an expedition weight midlayer: I wore it as a midlayer, usually over a thin t-shirt. On colder days I wore it over a lightweight merino wool baselayer.

I received a sample sized Medium (40/42) for testing, I am up to a 40” chest and the fit was nice and athletic. The overall length of the arms and body was a little large, but not overly. This shouldn’t be a problem as there is a great size range of 8 sizes to choose from. No weight was given but the trusty GCR scales weighed it in at 400g, so it’s not an ultralight top, but it’s not marketed as that.

The materials are Cocona (a USA based company) that has been working with many high profile manufacturers. This provides the main fabric with its wicking and anti-odour technology and Pontetorto Technostretch; a fabric made by Italian based Ponterato. This was highly breathable and was sitiated in all the main high sweat areas (back of the neck and under the arms). The zip was a standard YKK.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/adidas-terrex-fleece-mountains.jpg?w=384&h=288) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/adidas-terrex-fleece-mountains.jpg)adidas Terrex Fleece – great for days out in the mountains The fleece as a full zip jacket, I found this extremely useful for extra venting and removing or putting on the top as the base of the route (there’s nothing more unnerving than hopping around at the belay of Point Five trying to get a sweaty baselayer off and looking at the monumental slide you are in for if you trip up!). So getting the fleece on and off was a breeze, The zip was easy to use and had a nice, large tab that made it easy to work with thin gloves on. There was a draught guard to help keep the warthm in; I had no problems with the zip.

The collar had plenty of extra material to keep it in position and worked really well when it was windy and I needed to keep the wind out. In the late spring winter climbing we have enjoyed I found the combination of light merino baselayer adidas Terrex Fleece (http://www.adidas.co.uk/Men's-TERREX-Fleece-Jacket/Z09590_340,en_GB,pd.html?cgid=&cm_vc=SEARCH) and  a Hardshell perfect, I was plenty warm enough climbing and just popped a belay jacket on for belays. It would be a good choice for continental icefall climbing.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/adidas-terrex-fleece-running.jpg?w=384&h=288) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/adidas-terrex-fleece-running.jpg)Wicking was brilliant for active sports like trail running. The wicking worked very well with the gridded, terry pattern on the inside and flat faced outer. I did keep out a slight breeze, but nothing stronger. I often used it in combination with the adidas Terrex Hybrid (http://www.adidas.co.uk/Men's-Terrex-Hybrid-Soft-Shell-Vest/Z08892_380,en_GB,pd.html?cgid=&cm_vc=SEARCH) Softshell Vest  (http://www.adidas.co.uk/Men's-Terrex-Hybrid-Soft-Shell-Vest/Z08892_380,en_GB,pd.html?cgid=&cm_vc=SEARCH)(this is also on test) which was just about a perfect combination for winter approaches. The top dried out quickly, even under the hardshell. I would walk in with the combo described, open the jacket to vent and begin drying it as I was sorting out gear. Then pop on an outer shell and I was pretty much dry.

The odour wasn’t too bad after several days of wear. It wasn’t as good as Merino but it wasn’t too bad that I couldn’t go to the pub for a beer after a day out. It washed really well, I just chucked it with everything else on a 40 degree wash, no special washing was needed.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/adidas-terrex-fleece-climbing.jpg?w=384&h=512) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/adidas-terrex-fleece-climbing.jpg)The styling was very good, nice and athletic with the Adidas stripes under the arm and down the sides of the torso and a bright Adidas logo on the left chest. Nice, discreet and not at all flashy. All seams were flatlock both inside and out and the stitching looked very high quality. Strangely the Adidas website only offers black for sale but my sample was a lovely deep red.

The sleeves had elasticated cuffs and could be pulled up to half my forearms for rock climbing, the top was very nice for rock climbing with great freedom of movement and no rise under a harness. I would have liked to see thumb loops just to help my hands a little warmer under gloves.

The jacket had 2 hand warmer pockets, situated at abdominal level. They were too low to be accessible under a harness and I found them pretty much redundant for all the activities I used the fleece for. I would have much preferred a single, large Napoloen style pocket on the chest area. This would have been much more useful for storing my camera, compass or energy bar to be accessible en route.

I have used the adidas Terrex Fleece (http://www.adidas.co.uk/Men's-TERREX-Fleece-Jacket/Z09590_340,en_GB,pd.html?cgid=&cm_vc=SEARCH) for Winter Climbing, Trail Running, Hiking and Rock Climbing and found it a highly versatile top. Stylish, functional and it has performed really well in all my mountain activities.  If Adidas could ditch the pockets and replace them with a single napoleon, add thumbloops to the sleeves and add a hood then it would certainly be up there with the main climbing mid layers and be a brilliant top.

RRP £75.00

Stockists (http://discover.adidas.co.uk/storefinder/#/)

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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Arc’teryx Aristo Pants – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on May 01, 2013, 07:00:10 pm
Arc’teryx Aristo Pants – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/05/01/arcteryx-aristo-pants-climbing-gear-review/)
1 May 2013, 5:00 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx1.jpg?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx1.jpg)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/arcteryx_aristo_pant_utility_green.png?w=214&h=614) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/arcteryx_aristo_pant_utility_green.png)

CGR test out whether the Arc’teryx are as good for climbing in as they are for going down the pub. Performance *****

Style ****

Value***

The Arc’teryx Aristo Pants (http://www.arcteryx.com/product.aspx?language=EN&gender=Mens&collection=24&model=Aristo-Pant) are part of the new 24 range designed to be as good for casual wear as they are for climbing in. The first thing I noticed was the cut, they were a very modern, casual cut and felt great on. They have had nothing but admiring comments every time I’ve worn them. These are ideal for casual wear and will look great whether you are wearing them on the crag or the college campus. They would be suitable for all casual occasions – even work if you are lucky enough.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/arcteryx-spotter-pants.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/arcteryx-spotter-pants.jpg)Arc’teryx Aristo pants – great for chilly bouldering days. So a baggy, modern fit; don’t expect an athletic Alpine fit as you will be disappointed. I drift between a 32” and 34” waist so I ordered a 34”, there are 5 size combinations to choose from. They were a generous fit and I should have opted for a 32”, so I would say they are generously sized. There was plenty of adjustability with the integral waist belt which was sewn into seven bar tacked sections and had a small stainless steel hook to hook into the sections. This worked really well, especially under a harness. This system was so much better than the normal webbed belt and plastic buckle combination. Just the sort of great little innovation that you would expect from a quality company such as Arc’teryx.

There are 3 colours to choose from and I was sent the Nubian Brown – which was a nice colour and complimented most of my other casual climbing wear. The main material is a mixture of cotton, nylon and polysester. Not that you would notice the synthetic materials as the look and feel is exactly like cotton canvas, the addition of the synthetic materials is to improve the durability. The material felt satisfyingly thick and heavy duty, the trusty CGR scales weighed them in at 625g. They just washed with a normal 40 degree wash but they did need ironing!

The Arc’teryx Aristo Pants (http://www.arcteryx.com/product.aspx?language=EN&gender=Mens&collection=24&model=Aristo-Pant) are not the sort of trousers you would want to walk in to a mountain route though, so they are more for bouldering, sport and outcrop climbing.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/arcteryx-spotter.jpg?w=384&h=512) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/arcteryx-spotter.jpg)The large diamond gusset was great wide steps and bridging. There was a double layer of material at the knees and they were articulated so provided good movement for high steps. The crotch had a large and well sewn diamond gusset which made bridging a dream. They were an ideal pant for bouldering in and performed best in bouldering and sport climbing. I didn’t really like them for trad as I feel I need something slimmer in fit. All the models come with an inside leg measurement of 84cms (33”), this was very long and I found I had to roll the legs up. Many of the seams were double stitched with a very high stitch count – as you would expect from Arc’teryx (http://www.arcteryx.com/Home.aspx?language=EN). They had a branded push stud closure on the waist with further branding on the thigh.

All the high wear areas were bar tacked for extra durablity, these were sewn with orange cotton which added a little bit of colour. The fly zip was a standard YKK and worked well even with a harness on. The pants come with a whopping six pockets, two front, two back and two thigh. The front pockets were nice and big, I would have liked to have had a small zipped security pocket for car keys inside it, but they were plenty deep enough to keep hands warm on a chilly day. The back pockets were very big – I often found they had a lot of chalk in them after climbing. The two thigh pockets were also large enough to fit topos and all sorts of stuff in them. They zipped closed into the seam and you wouldn’t notice they were there until you needed them. The zip was a reversed YKK Vislon zip in a material that was the same colour.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/p1030522.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/p1030522.jpg)The Arc’teryx Aristo Pants – the perfect bouldering trousers. The Arc’teryx Aristo Pants (http://www.arcteryx.com/product.aspx?language=EN&gender=Mens&collection=24&model=Aristo-Pant) have been a fantastic pair of trousers easily worn for climbing as well as socially, they have recieved many compliments and feel great great on. They have performed in most of the climbing situations I have used them in but my favourite has been bouldering and I used them exclusively for this all spring. In fact I hardly taken then off; another great offering from Arc’teryx (http://www.arcteryx.com/Home.aspx?language=EN). They are probably £15 more than other brands of climbing trousers but you’re not going to need to buy another pair for a considerable amount of time.

RRP £85.00

Stockists (http://www.arcteryx.com/Home.aspx?language=EN)

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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: The North Face Infiesto – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on May 06, 2013, 01:00:21 pm
The North Face Infiesto – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/05/06/the-north-face-infiesto-climbing-gear-review/)
6 May 2013, 10:51 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/tnflogo-red-square-only.jpg?w=307&h=307) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/08/tnflogo-red-square-only.jpg)

CGR tests the new Infiesto midlayer to see if they climb like the Pou brothers!

The North Face® Men’s Infiesto Full Zip is a technical Polartec® Power Dry® mid-weight fleece for layering or next to skin wear. This fleece wicks moisture effectively and is fast drying so it is ideal for aerobic use and sweating and wet weather use, particularly as a mountain and alpine climbing jacket
Performance ***

Style ****

Value ***

We have been impressed with the The North Face, they have made strident efforts to get the Summit Series fit for purpose – that is technical clothing for serious mountain adventures. It’s fitting that the guides at Glenmore Lodge (one of the UK’s top Mountain Training Centres) have chosen the Summit Series for their kit.

The North Face Infiesto (http://uk.thenorthface.com/tnf-uk-en/men-s-infiesto-full-zip-fleece-jacket-16.html) is a technical midlayer designed for aerobic use, so that’s how I tested it. I also tested it in rock and winter climbing situations to see if it was suitable for climbing in.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/infiesto-walk-in.jpg?w=640&h=479) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/infiesto-walk-in.jpg)The North Face Infiesto, great for sweaty winter walk ins. Although it is marketed as a fleece and the Infiesto (http://uk.thenorthface.com/tnf-uk-en/men-s-infiesto-full-zip-fleece-jacket-16.html) is styled as a  fleece, the material doesn’t feel like a traditional ‘furry’ fleece material; in fact it is not made of fleece material at all. I would say it is an expedition weight midlayer top. This is how I used it with a baselayer t-shirt or thin merino wool with the Infiesto on top; I did have to wear a fleece and a hard or softshell for winter climbing. For late season or continental ice I wore a softshell vest instead of the fleece and a hardshell. This worked fine and felt warm and comfortable, I used this combination on breezy spring rock climbing days too.

I tested a sample sized Medium, the sizes come S-XL. I’m about a 40” chest and the fit was nice an athletic, it hugged quite snug, this is important for wicking. The length felt a little long (I’m 1.75m (5’9”) and so did the sleeves. If you are 5’ 11” (1.8m) it will fit you fine.

The jacket has a full zip which I found very useful for extra venting. I do like a full zip as it makes removing the top easy to remove when it was damp. The zip is YKK and worked really well, the tab could have been a little bigger to make it easier to work with thin gloves – but I didn’t have any problems it. The top was easy to wash – I just stuck it in with everything else and it was dry after 20 minutes on the line.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/tnf-infiesto-climbing-2.jpg?w=640&h=506) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/tnf-infiesto-climbing-2.jpg)The North Face Infiesto – a great cut for climbing. The super classic Scratch Arete at Tremadog. The North Face have opted to use branded materials on most of the Summit Series so the Infiesto (http://uk.thenorthface.com/tnf-uk-en/men-s-infiesto-full-zip-fleece-jacket-16.html) was made using Polartec Powerdry, this is a tried a tested material and performed really well. The weave was gridded with a flat face on the inner, this made it very comfortable next to my skin and very, very breathable. The Infiesto (http://uk.thenorthface.com/tnf-uk-en/men-s-infiesto-full-zip-fleece-jacket-16.html) was great as an approach top and I used it mostly for winter climbing, mountaineering and running where it performed very well. It was very breathable and dried out quickly, even under a hardshell. The top was not windproof at all, so an extra layer needs to be worn in order for those breezy days.

The collar was long enough to keep the warmth in and had a double layer of Powerdry to help stiffen it. The collar, sleeves and hem were all piped in a more harder wearing material. There is no hem cinch, which isn’t needed on this type of top; there is also a reflective TNF logo on the left chest and a Summit Series logo and copy on the arm. There is a handy hang tab for the drying room.  The colour range is three colours a light blue, a darker blue and a bright green, all the colours have black trim in the high sweat areas. All seams were flatlock and the stitching was high quality, I particularly liked the fact that TNF had taken the trouble to bar tack the zip ends, a nice quality touch.

The jacket also comes with two handwarmer pockets and it’s these I had a problem with in the situations I tested it in. I can understand the need for pockets – they are very useful, but on this type of active top I feel a single, large Napoleon chest pocket would be more useful. I can put my camera, energy bar or compass in it for mountain activities or I can put my phone or mp3 player when running. The pockets were not accessible at all with a harness on.

I have used this top for winter climbing, trail running, hiking and fair weather rock climbing and it has performed great for all those activities. It breathes really well and dries out superfast (and I mean superfast, half the time of a merino top). It is durable and easy to wash, it’s a go anywhere top. If  The North Face can sort out the pockets it will be brilliant, and can we have a hooded version please?

RRP £75.00

Stockists (http://uk.thenorthface.com/tnf-uk-en/ustorelocator/location/map/)

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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: The North Face Anti-Matter Jacket – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on May 09, 2013, 07:00:12 pm
The North Face Anti-Matter Jacket – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/05/09/the-north-face-anti-matter-jacket-climbing-gear-review/)
9 May 2013, 3:48 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/tnf-logo.jpg?w=300&h=137) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/tnf-logo.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/the-north-face-anti-matter-jacket.jpg?w=256&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/the-north-face-anti-matter-jacket.jpg)

CGR test the new ultralight climbing hardshell from The North Face®. Performance *****

Style ****

Value ***

The North Face® Anti-Matter Jacket is a lightweight Summit Series windproof and hooded, helmet compatible soft shell alpine jacket.
The North Face® (http://uk.thenorthface.com/tnf-uk-en/) continue to produce their Summit Series range of clothing designed by climbers for climbers. This time they have produced a super light hardshell that is great for climbing in. In 2012 I stated that I didn’t wear hardshells (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/04/12/montane-atomic-stretch-dt-jacket-and-pants-climbing-gear-review/) for climbing in and they tended to stay in the bottom of my pack until it rained but… I have had a change of heart. There are many benefits to using a hardshell for climbing in and the new breed of lightweight shell make it very easy to do so. They are 100% windproof, they are lighter than a softshell and it’s easier to regulate you temperature when on a big multi-pitch route. I’ve found that since using a hardshell more often on mountain routes I am warmer and more comfortable.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/tnf-antimatter-2.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/tnf-antimatter-2.jpg)The North Face® Anti-Matter – great for those damp walk ins. Firstly, The North Face® pointed out that the jacket is not guaranteed waterproof, so let’s look at the materials. The jacket is made from Goretex Windstopper, it’s mostly 2 layer Windstopper with the shoulders and outside arm areas in 3 layer, these are the areas that are exposed to abrasion when climbing so you have some extra durability in those areas. This hybrid construction has made the jacket very light. The North Face® state the Anti-Matter Jacket (http://uk.thenorthface.com/tnf-uk-en/men-s-anti-matter-jacket-2.html) is 319g, the trusty CGR scales weighed it in at 305g! So although the jacket isn’t guaranteed waterproof, it’s certainly showerproof to rainproof. The majority of the seams are taped, there are two areas that aren’t: in the hood where there is a folded, sen seam and in the waist area. Both of these areas are covered by firstly a climbing helmet and secondly a climbing harness. I used the jacket in a variety of showery and rainy conditions including assessing, training and group work as well as my own personal climbing and it hasn’t really leaked anywhere that I would notice. I suppose if I stood out in a complete deluge for a hour those seams might just leak through, but to be honest I’d be back at the car by then.  One issue I had was that the material around the harness is the 2 layer when it could have been three layer, this would help the durability more when using climbing hardwear.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/tnf-anti-matter-climbing-2.jpg?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/tnf-anti-matter-climbing-2.jpg)A good cut for climbing freedom The materials make The North Face© Anti-Matter Jacket (http://uk.thenorthface.com/tnf-uk-en/men-s-anti-matter-jacket-2.html)  very compressible and it took up very little room in the pack, it was ideal for big days out, especially winter when space is at a premium.  The styling was great for climbing in, it was an Alpine fit and there was no rise when worn with a harness. The beatheability was very good on walk ins, this was aided by the addition of pit zips that were also pockets. This was a great innovation, the shape of the zip was diagonal, it starts at the armpit then ends at position of a normal pocket.  I soon found out that I needed to remember to have the zip pulls at the bottom otherwise it caused some frustration when I needed to get some gloves or energy bar. The pockets were plenty big enough to fit maps in as well as gloves, compass, GPS, etc. The hood was the best hood I have used on any jacket for a long time – it was brilliant and deserved the 5 star rating alone. This is an area that many manufacturers get wrong and I could see that The North Face® had spent time trying to get it right. It was a dream to wear with a helmet on, it’s really good to see that The North Face® have wired hood on all the Summit Series hardshells. It does make a difference and I don’t understand why manufacturers can’t use them. The peak was further enhanced by by the elasticated hood adjustment. The small elasticated ‘skirt’, when adjusted to my helmet just tucked under the helmet brim and presto! The helmet was locked in place and needed no further adjustment .  The toggles are hidden in the jacket, this aids styling but makes it awkward to find them, especially with gloves on. Since I have adjusted the hood to fit with my helmet on, I’ve just left it at that and it also seems to fit without one on.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/mg_0069.jpg?w=224&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/mg_0069.jpg)The North Face® Anti-matter had one of the best hoods I’ve used for a while. The sleeves were taped and a good length, not too long. The ends were large enough to tuck winter climbing gloves underneath them and cinched tight enough to tuck them into belay gloves. They had moulded cuff tabs, but I didn’t see any advantages to these over a material one.  The zips were YKK Aquaguard, they are taped and had a good sized draft guard. They worked every time and never got caught (I am often zipping and unzipping as I keep my gloves inside my jacket and not in pockets). The chin guard and back of the collar had a laminated brushed microfleece layer to help comfort. Even though I would like to see some extra durability in the waist area and the pockets were not as easy to use as I would have liked them to be. I have no hesitation in giving The North Face® Anti-Matter Jacket (http://uk.thenorthface.com/tnf-uk-en/men-s-anti-matter-jacket-2.html) 5 stars, it has performed well for me throughout the winter season. And has quickly become a favourite item of clothing, I suspect it will become my Alpine favourite this summer too.

RRP £300 Stockists (http://uk.thenorthface.com/tnf-uk-en/)

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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: The North Face and CGR Spring Climbing Photo Comp – Climbing Gear News
Post by: comPiler on May 10, 2013, 07:00:25 pm
The North Face and CGR Spring Climbing Photo Comp – Climbing Gear News (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/05/10/the-north-face-and-cgr-spring-climbing-photo-comp-climbing-gear-news/)
10 May 2013, 1:46 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/tnf-logo.jpg?w=300&h=137) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/tnf-logo.jpg)  The sun has been shining lately, perfect for getting out climbing with the camera and getting fantastic photos to enter into our Spring Photo Comp with prizes from The North Face.  

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/tnf-comp.jpg?w=640&h=427) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/tnf-comp.jpg)

Entry into the competition is simple. Head over to our Facebook Page (http://www.facebook.com/pages/Climbing-Gear-Reviews-UK/160049837341644) and “like” it if you haven’t done already. And then post your best climbing photo on our wall. The photo must be your own work and be climbing themed. E.g. it must contain somebody actually climbing. This can be any climbing from bouldering to drytooling but not be a walking or landscape shot.

If you’re not into Facebook you can still enter by emailing your image to us at gearreviewsuk@gmail.com Just mark it TNF Photo Comp.

At the end of May we will choose our favourite 5 images and pass them on to The North Face staff to choose 2 winners.

Each one will win a prize. Prize 1 is a TNF wallet, chalk bag and bottle and Prize 2 is a TNF wallet, chalk bag and pair of socks.

Entries are limited to 1 per person and entry is open until midnight on 31st May 2013. The winners will be notified during the first week of June.

 

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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: adidas Fast R GTX Shoes – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on May 18, 2013, 01:00:27 pm
adidas Fast R GTX Shoes – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/05/18/adidas-fast-r-gtx-shoes-climbing-gear-review/)
18 May 2013, 8:30 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/adidas20logo.gif?w=300&h=220) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/adidas20logo.gif)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/adidas-terrex-fast-r-gtx.png?w=300&h=177) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/adidas-terrex-fast-r-gtx.png)

Move fast on the mountain in the men’s adidas Terrex Fast R shoes. They feature a TRAXION™ outsole with Continental™ rubber for optimal grip and a low-to-the-ground construction supported by a new 3D FORMOTION™ unit for great stability on rough terrain.
Performance****

Style****

Value***

I’ve worn a great deal of approach shoes in my time as a gear tester, from dedicated approach shoes from climbing shoe manufacturers to trainer type approach shoes. The adidas Fast R GTX (http://www.adidas.co.uk/Men's-Terrex-Fast-R-GTX/V22343_570,en_GB,pd.html?cgid=&cm_vc=SEARCH) fit into the trainer type, the style is very similar to the Salamon XA Pro but the build is much more rugged.

In some ways I prefer the trainer style of shoe for approach, they are lighter and often a more comfortable wear. Especially on a long mountain day when I can in the shoes for more time than climbing. I have been a advocate of lightweight running shoes for all my summer mountain days for some time now – and I spend a long time in the mountains during the summer for both work and recreation.

Firstly, they are very light. The official weight for a UK8.5 is 370g the trusty CGR scales weighed them in at  380g so that’s not too bad. They felt very light on, I could happily wear them all day and not notice them on. The lighness was also noticeable in my pack when I was carrying them on routes.  The uppers are made from a close weave mesh, the Gore-Tex sock and a lightweight liner. I’ve worn these all season and they have no holes in them yet, in fact the upper are showing very little signs of wear.  Extra durability is provided by a tougher plastic neatly incorporated into thye adidas three stripes, the toe area was further beefed up with chunky rubber toe box.

My heel was held firmly in place with a rigid heel cup which did a great job of holding my heel in place on all sorts of rough terrain and my achilles were comfortable with the cupped achilles support. This was well padded and didn’t give me any blisters even after completing the Yorkshire 3 Peaks in them. So a rugged top section easily withstood the knocks of a mountain day. They were also very comfortable for scree approaches and other steep ground.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/adidas-terrex-fastr-rough-ground.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/adidas-terrex-fastr-rough-ground.jpg)adidas Fast R – great on rocky ground The sole unit was cushioned using ‘adiPRENE’ – adidas’ own cushioning material and the cushion was covered with a very grippy rubber  sole made by the German tyre manufacturer Continental. Now they should know a thing or two about rubber technology so I was expecting to be impressed….and I was. These shoes have some of the grippiest sole units I have ever tested on a trainer or approach shoe. They gripped dry rock so much that it was easy to trip up when descending steep ground so I had to be careful, they were brilliant. On wet ground they were just as good and as long as I didn’t hit wet lichen I felt secure. A good sole unit and one I feel will last a long time due to the aggressive tread design. The only point of note was the separate heel, it was separate from the main sole. I think the purpose of this was to increase the suspension on the heel strike but to be honest I don’t think it added to the overall performance very much and could definitely be an area where the durability could fail.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/adidas-fast-r-running.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/adidas-fast-r-running.jpg)adidas Fast R were a great running shoe. The shoes were waterproof due to the Gore-Tex liner. I’m generally on-off as to whether a Gore-Tex sock is a plus or a minus in shoes. They offer some degree of dryness and the adidas Fast R (http://www.adidas.co.uk/Men's-Terrex-Fast-R-GTX/V22343_570,en_GB,pd.html?cgid=&cm_vc=SEARCH) kept my feet dry in most crag approach situations. But when hiking or running on very wet ground the shoes eventually leaked through the top so on very wet days I still had to wear a pair of Sealskinz. On hot days the sock impairs breathability and feet get sweaty which can cause blisters, but to be fair although my feet go hot they didn’t get too sweaty and I never got any blisters at all when I tested them.

The tongue was finished with more adiPRENE foam, this help prevent grit from getting in. It worked quite well and was very comfortable. The lace system was similar to the Salamon X as, a thin, tough lace that is tightened with a locking toggle. The toggle worked fine and never came loose. The excess lace was kept in place using the lace bungee and this was fine in hiking and climbing approach but when running it became a nuisance as it kept coming out of the bungee or it slipped down the bungee. The lace will also wear through the fabric eyes, eventually. It has to as the lace itself is tougher than the eye fabric. The top eyelet is a ringed hole, but most of the run is made through the eye below that. I know this as I have had two pairs of Salamons before and several pairs of approach shoes with fabric eyelets and they have all worn through. This is a definite weakness in the shoe design and I feel that adidas should revert back to a standard lace design.

So, the adidas Fast R GTX (http://www.adidas.co.uk/Men's-Terrex-Fast-R-GTX/V22343_570,en_GB,pd.html?cgid=&cm_vc=SEARCH) is great all round mountain shoe that will serve you well in all situations, not the sort of shoe you are going to feel comfortable on technical ground, but they will be fine for grade 1 scrambles, technical crag approaches, hiking and running. So a very versatile all mountain shoe that will serve you well for a variety of mountain uses.

RRP £130 non Gore-Tex £110

Stockists (http://discover.adidas.co.uk/storefinder/#/)

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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: adidas Terrex Fast R GTX Shoes – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on May 18, 2013, 07:00:17 pm
adidas Terrex Fast R GTX Shoes – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/05/18/adidas-fast-r-gtx-shoes-climbing-gear-review/)
18 May 2013, 8:30 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/adidas20logo.gif?w=300&h=220) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/adidas20logo.gif)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/adidas-terrex-fast-r-gtx.png?w=300&h=177) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/adidas-terrex-fast-r-gtx.png)

Move fast on the mountain in the men’s adidas Terrex Fast R shoes. They feature a TRAXION™ outsole with Continental™ rubber for optimal grip and a low-to-the-ground construction supported by a new 3D FORMOTION™ unit for great stability on rough terrain.
Performance****

Style****

Value***

I’ve worn a great deal of approach shoes in my time as a gear tester, from dedicated approach shoes by climbing shoe manufacturers to trainer type approach shoes. The adidas Fast R GTX (http://www.adidas.co.uk/Men's-Terrex-Fast-R-GTX/V22343_570,en_GB,pd.html?cgid=&cm_vc=SEARCH) fits into the trainer type, the style is very similar to the Salamon XA Pro but the build is much more rugged.

In some ways I prefer the trainer style of shoe for approach, they are lighter and often a more comfortable wear. Especially on a long mountain day when I can be in the shoes for more time than climbing. I have been a advocate of lightweight running shoes for all my summer mountain days for some time now – and I spend a long time in the mountains during the summer for both work and recreation.

Firstly, they are very light. The official weight for a UK8.5 is 370g the trusty CGR scales weighed them in at  380g so that’s not too bad. They felt very light when wearing them, I could happily wear them all day and not notice them on. The lightness was also noticeable in my pack when I was carrying them on routes.  The uppers are made from a close weave mesh, the Gore-Tex sock and a lightweight liner. I’ve worn these all season and they have no holes in them yet, in fact the uppers are showing very little signs of wear.  Extra durability is provided by a tougher plastic neatly incorporated into the adidas three stripes, the toe area was further beefed up with chunky rubber toe box.

My heel was held firmly in place with a rigid heel cup which did a great job of holding my heel in place on all sorts of rough terrain and my achilles were comfortable with the cupped achilles support. This was well padded and didn’t give me any blisters even after completing the Yorkshire 3 Peaks in them. So a rugged top section easily withstood the knocks of a mountain day. They were also very comfortable for scree approaches and other steep ground.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/adidas-terrex-fastr-rough-ground.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/adidas-terrex-fastr-rough-ground.jpg)adidas Fast R – great on rocky ground The sole unit was cushioned using ‘adiPRENE’ – adidas’ own cushioning material and the cushion was covered with a very grippy rubber  sole made by the German tyre manufacturer Continental. Now they should know a thing or two about rubber technology so I was expecting to be impressed….and I was. These shoes have some of the grippiest sole units I have ever tested on a trainer or approach shoe. They gripped dry rock so much that it was easy to trip up when descending steep ground so I had to be careful, they were brilliant. On wet ground they were just as good and as long as I didn’t hit wet lichen I felt secure. A good sole unit and one I feel will last a long time due to the aggressive tread design. The only point of note was the separate heel, it was separate from the main sole. I think the purpose of this was to increase the suspension on the heel strike but to be honest I don’t think it added to the overall performance very much and could definitely be an area where the durability could fail.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/adidas-fast-r-running.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/adidas-fast-r-running.jpg)adidas Fast R were a great running shoe. The shoes were waterproof due to the Gore-Tex liner. I’m generally on-off as to whether a Gore-Tex sock is a plus or a minus in shoes. They offer some degree of dryness and the adidas Fast R (http://www.adidas.co.uk/Men's-Terrex-Fast-R-GTX/V22343_570,en_GB,pd.html?cgid=&cm_vc=SEARCH) kept my feet dry in most crag approach situations. But when hiking or running on very wet ground the shoes eventually leaked through the top so on very wet days I still had to wear a pair of Sealskinz. On hot days the sock impairs breathability and feet get sweaty which can cause blisters, but to be fair although my feet go hot they didn’t get too sweaty and I never got any blisters at all when I tested them.

The tongue was finished with more adiPRENE foam, this help prevent grit from getting in. It worked quite well and was very comfortable. The lace system was similar to the Salamon X as, a thin, tough lace that is tightened with a locking toggle. The toggle worked fine and never came loose. The excess lace was kept in place using the lace bungee and this was fine in hiking and climbing approach but when running it became a nuisance as it kept coming out of the bungee or it slipped down the bungee. The lace will also wear through the fabric eyes, eventually. It has to as the lace itself is tougher than the eye fabric. The top eyelet is a ringed hole, but most of the run is made through the eye below that. I know this as I have had two pairs of Salamons before and several pairs of approach shoes with fabric eyelets and they have all worn through. This is a definite weakness in the shoe design and I feel that adidas should revert back to a standard lace design.

So, the adidas Fast R GTX (http://www.adidas.co.uk/Men's-Terrex-Fast-R-GTX/V22343_570,en_GB,pd.html?cgid=&cm_vc=SEARCH) is great all round mountain shoe that will serve you well in all situations, not the sort of shoe you are going to feel comfortable on technical ground, but they will be fine for grade 1 scrambles, technical crag approaches, hiking and running. So a very versatile all mountain shoe that will serve you well for a variety of mountain uses.

RRP £130 non Gore-Tex £110

Stockists (http://discover.adidas.co.uk/storefinder/#/)

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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Haglöfs Spire Jacket – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on May 28, 2013, 01:00:16 pm
Haglöfs Spire Jacket – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/05/28/haglofs-spire-jacket-climbing-gear-review/)
28 May 2013, 9:04 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/haglc3b6fs_logo_basic-white-on-black.jpg?w=194&h=214) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/haglc3b6fs_logo_basic-white-on-black.jpg)(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/haglofs-spire-jkt.png?w=239&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/haglofs-spire-jkt.png)

CGR reviewer Dave Sarkar puts the new Haglöfs Spire jacket through some mountain challenges.
A reinforced Gore-Tex® Active Shell Jacket that is extremely breathable and durable, with details such as mountain helmet compatible hood and two chest pockets.
Performance***

Style*****

Value for Money ****

Haglöfs are a quality Swedish brand that have been producing mountain equipment since 1914. They are very popular in Scandinavia and have been available in the UK for quite a while.

We mentioned their new Spring collection for climber earlier in the year and having interviewed the UK team and viewed the climbing collection we can vouch for their dedication to producing equipment for climbers that is fit for purpose.

The Haglöfs Spire Jacket (http://www.haglofs.com/en-US/products/clothing/layers/shell-layer/men/spire_jacket_en-us.aspx) is a climbing specific hardshell made from Gore-Tex Active Shell that certainly feels like a jacket for climbing in. The shell is a lightweight, 3 layer waterproof garment that is made from 2 different weights of Active Shell. The main body of the jacket is constructed with 30D (Denier – the density of the material) with the shoulder and forearm area reinforced with a more dense fabric of 40D. All the seams are taped so it is guaranteed waterproof by Gore-Tex.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/img_0010.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/img_0010.jpg)The Haglofs Spire Jacket – breathable for those active walk-ins. The cut was great for climbing in: it was a very athletic fit with minimal additions to get in the way.  The cut was very good with a harness on and I had no rise when climbing in it at all, I felt complete freedom of movement. There were no pit zips which is a good thing, I feel they are not necessary for a climbing jacket as I am often not walking in it. A hardshell often stays in the pack until it gets windy, then I put it on.  I’ve been using the Haglöfs Spire Jacket (http://www.haglofs.com/en-US/products/clothing/layers/shell-layer/men/spire_jacket_en-us.aspx) for most of my climbing/instructing this season and the cut is just right.

The stated weight for a Large was 380g and my test sample sized Medium weighed in at 350g so nice and light. I’m usually a 40” chest and the fit was good for that size – very little play though so try before you buy!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/img_0277.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/img_0277.jpg)Haglofs Spire Jacket – good for all mountain activities. (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/haglofs-spire-climbing.jpg?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/haglofs-spire-climbing.jpg)Haglofs Spire Jacket – great for those windy climbing days. The sleeves were again well styled for climbing with no rise, the sleeve ends were neatly extended with a V patch which was great for tucking gloves in. A good point as sometimes on technical ice I want to have the sleeves over the glove cuffs. The sleeve cuffs were  fastened with sewn Velcro patches – you can tell Haglöfs designers have put some thought into this as it’s often a high wear area and you can often open and close the sleeves as much as the jacket. The fastener was made of a double layer of jacket material and bar tacked to the sleeve.

The hood was helmet compatible although it was not so easy to adjust it on belays, etc as the toggles were not attached to the hood so I needed two hands to adjust the hood. Further adjustment was available at the back where there were two adjusters. The top one cinched the hood to the helmet whist the bottom one adjusted the collar. Once these adjusters were used the hood performed well, but it felt a little over designed for a hardcore climbing jacket. The peak was stiffened and pulled neatly over the helmet.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/haglofs-spire-jacket.jpg?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/haglofs-spire-jacket.jpg)A good winter climbing jacket, just watch out for those ice screws! At the back of the hood was a rear mounted, large hanging loop which made it easy to dry. It was bar tacked to extra durability, again another nice touch you wouldn’t find on a cheaper jacket. The pockets were well sited and easy to get into with a harness on. There was no inside pocket or Napoleon pocket, this isn’t a major issue as I often just shove gloves and maps down the front when I’m wearing a harness or pack. Haglöfs have been brave with other jackets with the addition of just one pocket on other jackets in their range and I feel that one large pocket on this jacket would have been ideal. The pocket zips were YKK Aquacoil and worked well and the pull tabs were glove friendly.

The hem could be cinched with one hand as the toggles were attached to the jacket, it’s a feature that I occasionally use when it’s cold as you’d be surprised at how much warmer the jacket is when the hem in cinched.  The inside collar had a laminated microfleece layer that felt good against the back of my neck, this is often useful when you have just a baselayer and the jacket on a spring climbing day.

Finally to the main zip and this was a real problem area for me when in use. I am a big zip user when climbing. I open and close the zip often for things like changing gloves as well as accessing maps and guidebooks. Although the zip did a great job of keeping the rain and snow out it felt over engineered on this jacket and I had trouble opening and closing it. The main issue seemed to be something as small and easy to change as the draft guard. The guard wasn’t doubled over to give a complete double layer. It only covered half the guard, this left an area that got caught in the zip. The zip already has a YKK Aquaguard and was covered with extra material, although this offers extra water resistance and an improved  cosmetic appearance it did affect the performance, especially with gloves on.  The problem would be very simple to solve and with this issue resolved the Haglöfs Spire Jacket (http://www.haglofs.com/en-US/products/clothing/layers/shell-layer/men/spire_jacket_en-us.aspx) would be a great all mountain jacket.

RRP £320

Stockists (http://www.haglofs.com/en-US/retailers/)

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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Gear News – A new type chalk bag from Hanchor.
Post by: comPiler on May 29, 2013, 01:00:10 pm
Gear News – A new type chalk bag from Hanchor. (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/05/29/gear-news-a-new-type-chalk-bag-from-hanchor/)
29 May 2013, 9:41 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/black.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/black.jpg)

Taiwanese outdoor company Hanchor develop a chalk bag that acts as a chalkball A chalk bag development we think will interest readers comes from an outdoor manufacturer in Taiwan. The bags act as a normal chalkbag dipping your hand in the top and they also have a chalk ball type opening at the  zipped sides. There is another model that has a press stud inner opening to reveal a fine mesh and also acts in chalk ball mode.

Hanchor says: The magic sauce is that we’ve essentially integrated a chalksock into a high quality chalkbag. You get all the benefits of dipping a chalkball without worrying about anything spilling out.
We think they are a well made chalk bag that will prove popular with regular climbing wall users.

For more information check out: http://hanchor.com/en/

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/colors.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/colors.jpg)

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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Haglöfs Roc 35 Pack – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on June 03, 2013, 07:00:17 pm
Haglöfs Roc 35 Pack – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/06/03/haglofs-roc-35-pack-climbing-gear-review/)
3 June 2013, 4:47 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/haglc3b6fs_logo_basic-white-on-black.jpg?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/haglc3b6fs_logo_basic-white-on-black.jpg)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/haglofs-roc-35-resize.png?w=240&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/haglofs-roc-35-resize.png)

CGR tests out the updated Roc 35 pack from Swedish company Haglöfs Performance****

Style****

Value ****

An all-purpose mountain pack that is versatile enough to work well in almost every climbing challenge. A clean, minimalist design makes it an appreciated crag climbing backpack, while its ability to carry winter mountain gear qualifies ROC for all-season use.
 I first reviewed the Haglöfs Roc 35 (http://www.haglofs.com/en-US/products/backpacksbags/mountains-backpacks/unisex/roc_35_en-us.aspx) in June 2009 for UKC. At that time I concluded it is was… a great all mountain sack. It fits like a dream and swallows kit. It will fulfil all your requirements for a variety of mountain adventures and will last you years. Do all the fancy extras warrant the extra price tag and weight? No, it’s not the perfect sack and so the quest continues.

We recently were sent the updated version for 2013 so I was very keen to see what improvements they had made to what I have come to consider is a very good pack.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/haglofs-roc-35-mark-12.png?w=306&h=408) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/haglofs-roc-35-mark-12.png)The Roc 35 marks 1 and 2. Firstly the pack is much lighter, it originally weighed in at 1.5kgs –  the trusty CGR scales weighed it in at 1.35kg so much lighter and it felt it too. They have lighten the weigh by removing simplifying the lid zip, removing all steel items such as the ski retainers and replacing them with plastic ones.

The Haglöfs Roc 35 (http://www.haglofs.com/en-US/products/backpacksbags/mountains-backpacks/unisex/roc_35_en-us.aspx) has retained all the great features of the original and the more I use it the more I like them: Originally I though the lid was over complicated – but I have come to like the extra little pocket at the back as I keep specific items in them that can be easily accessed such as sun and lip bloc, compass, glasses, etc. The main lid is still big enough for hat, gloves, buff, energy bars, etc. The inside lid had a key fob and was plenty big enough to store a camera, wallet and phone.

http://youtu.be/jj55uJTJn3o (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jj55uJTJn3o)

The lid was the floating style and could be adjusted by the very clever system of combining the lid and shoulder strap adjustment into one unit. This means that when the lid is removed for climbing there are no straps dangling around. A great design feature. Although I should add 2 points: the system is fiddly to operate in the field, especially with gloves on and the small loop that the straps thread though detached from the main body on the original pack but hopefully it has been reinforced in the updated version.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/roc-35-packed-for-climbing.png?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/roc-35-packed-for-climbing.png)The Roc 35 was streamlined for climbing. The lid is single closure with a large buckle and I was pleased that they had kept the system of tightening the lid from above, I have found this most useful. The strap can be tidied away with the Hypalon insert and the lid was reinforced with a moulded Delrin rod – an engineering plastic that is used for ski bindings and in the automotive industry.

The shoulder straps were a good fit for my medium frame. I was disheartened to see the branded loop gone – I liked this as I wear my watch/altimeter on the shoulder strap and I was delighted to see a much beefier one on the Haglöfs Roc Hard (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/10/02/hagolfs-roc-hard-climbing-gear-review/). The straps were easy to tighten and release and the shoulder. The sternum strap was on rails and was easy to adjust, it had an integrated emergency whistle.

The volume as just as big as the original and it swallowed plenty of kit, I have used it all winter with no problems getting everything in for a winter day. I used the original for my 6 day Stubai Glacier Tour (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/07/31/trekking-the-stubai-glacier-tour-stubai-hoehen-weg-guidebook-review/) and it was perfect – I easily had the smallest pack in the group and had plenty of clothing and other items. I never felt that I needed a bigger pack. It’s easily big enough for a trad day out and you could fit the kitchen sink in as well if you are sport climbing. Extra volume could be gained from the spindrift collar and it open and closed easily with the one handed system. It still looked as delicate as the original and I’m not sure how long it will last (as the original eventually broke).

The waist belt was exactly the same as the original and had a great tucking in feature that meant is was completely out the way for climbing in and made the (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/img_0009.jpg?w=112&h=150) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/img_0009.jpg)pack feel streamlined. It felt great to climb with both for winter and rock climbing. It adjusted to be above my harness and I could access my leading rack easily. The waist bely was reinforced with Hypalon and had hip adjusters either side. Unfortunately still no ice clipper loops – which would be easy to put on and weigh next to nothing, so let’s hope they appear in future updates.

The pack came with a removable aluminium stay and HDPE (High Density Polythene) framesheet. I removed the stay and have kept the framesheet and this works well for me, I used the pack without the stay for the Subai tour and found it great. But, hey it’s removable so you can choose what best suits your frame. It still remains a good and comfortable carry even if it’s on all day – I’ll be trying it out backpacking this spring for expeditions and  assessments.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/img_0284.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/img_0284.jpg)The Roc 35 was a good rock climbing pack. The ice axe attachment was the sleeve type which I like, it worked well and the elasticated retainers worked well – the hook system did sometimes fill with snow and ice which made it more difficult but I just used them in the traditional way of looping over the toggle itself, which worked fine.

So, the Haglöfs Roc 35 (http://www.haglofs.com/en-US/products/backpacksbags/mountains-backpacks/unisex/roc_35_en-us.aspx)  is still a great all mountain pack, it’s bombroof construction and use features will serve you well for many mountain days and longer trips. There are lighter packs in the range but this really is a true all mountain pack. The updates are a good improvement and it will still last you for years. Is it the perfect pack… well no but it’s definitely getting closer!

RRP £120

Stockists. (http://www.haglofs.com/en-US/retailers/)

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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Red Chili Spice – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on June 05, 2013, 07:00:33 pm
Red Chili Spice – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/06/05/red-chil-spice-climbing-gear-review/)
5 June 2013, 5:45 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/logo_redchili.png?w=250&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/logo_redchili.png)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/red-chili-spice-2013-resized.jpg?w=288&h=288)

CGR reviewer Katie takes a look at the Red Chili Spice – a female specific rock shoe.
… a radical and uncompromising high-end climbing shoe built on a special female last. Spice doesn’t just look good, it has what it takes. It’s built with a newly developed speed-lacing system, balanced pre-tension and asymetical shape. The midsole is tuned to the climbing style of athletic women.
Value for money *****

Performance ***

Quality ****

Climbing shoes are interesting things.  Some people can chop and change from brand, but most stick with one kind that suits their foot shape.  I’m lucky, I’ve been able to find a perfect shoe from most brands to create a good all round selection.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/red-chili-pair.jpg?w=224&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/red-chili-pair.jpg)Red Chili Spice-a nice looking showe The Red Chili Spice (http://redchili.de/en/climbingshoes/performance/spice.html) is a lovely looking shoe, when I first opened the box I had a nice little coo at them.  I really wanted them to fit well so I could wear them all the time!  I’ll start the review by saying that unfortunately they didn’t really fit me…gutted.  It was close, I have slim feet and even though these are lace ups I still couldn’t pull them tight enough to make my heel stay in.

So what I did was give them a good trial and tried them out in all different climbing situations, but kept in mind that they weren’t a perfect fit.

The Spice is a high end women specific shoe.  Extremely light weight, with a speed lacing system.  The sole is 4.5mm, high end Red Chili RX-2rubber.  So a pretty well thought out shoe, for serious climbers.

I’ll start with the sole; the rubber is hard wearing which is a plus, but this comes hand in hand with not being very sticky; A flat profile, no down turned toes here.  The sole is 4.5mm, to me it feels very thick, which isn’t normally my cup of tea; I like to feel where I’m putting my toes.  I found myself misplacing my feet a lot, and because I couldn’t feel my toes, I didn’t trust them as much.

Saying this, I realised the answer to why I wasn’t getting the most out of these shoes; I don’t do much Trad.  So, off to the crag and a bit of extreme seconding later, I found the reason why these shoes should be bought.  The Red Chili Spice (http://redchili.de/en/climbingshoes/performance/spice.html) has brilliant precision edges, and any tiny edges you may come across on a climb seem like giant foot holds in them.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/red-chili-spice-toe.jpg?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/red-chili-spice-toe.jpg)The Red Chili Spice – precision edges. The stiffness of the shoe was something I’ve had to get my head around.  A good stiff shoe is just what you need sometimes, so it would definitely be great to have in my repertoire, but for me it isn’t an everyday shoe, I like a bit of soft comfort. To compare them to other shoes on the market, I’d say they were closest to the 5.10 Whites in style, but with a specific women’s fit.

The heel looks like it will be great; I say it like this because my heel won’t stay in.  Now as I’ve said before, I do have slim feet and heels, so anyone who already wears Red Chili’s or has broad feet will probably find them great.  It is a comfortable heel and the rubber finish at the back is in the perfect spot for heel hooking (which a lot of brands get wrong).   It’s finished well, and there have been no signs of peeling.

I’m a UK 4 in most shoes as standard, and I think that goes for the Red Chili’s as well; it’s purely the shape that is wrong for me.  This isn’t a bad quality for the Red Chili Spice (http://redchili.de/en/climbingshoes/performance/spice.html), like I said at the start, there are different shoes for different people, we don’t all have the same shaped feet.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/red-chili-spice-bowderstone.jpg?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/red-chili-spice-bowderstone.jpg)A great lasting, all round climbing shoe. The shape of the shoe hasn’t changed at all, but then it’s only been 8 weeks, so I can’t guarantee it won’t change.   The speed lacing system is great, they say it’s a ‘new lacing system’ but I’ve seen it around for a long time in other shoes; but it works, it pulls in the shoe evenly and quickly, which is exactly what you want.  The lace itself, although it looks awesome, is a bit slippery and doesn’t grip to itself as well as it should.  This is by no means a deal breaker, just a critical comment from someone reviewing them closely.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/red-chili-lacing.jpg?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/red-chili-lacing.jpg)The lacing system worked really well. So what is my conclusion of the Red Chili Spice (http://redchili.de/en/climbingshoes/performance/spice.html); I think they’ve got it right.  I know they don’t fit me that well, but I can still see where they work and how good they’ll be for people with the right shaped feet.  Don’t go into buying this shoe with a view that it will be an all rounder for all types of climbing, it isn’t.  It’s a stiff shoe, with positive edges, and if that’s all you’re looking for in a shoe, well here’s the one for you;   At around £99.95, they price as well many other modern shoe.

I may have to keep trying with these shoes, not just because they’re so darn pretty, but because I feel like I’d be missing a trick if I didn’t use them to their full potential, which I don’t think I have yet.  Oh well, Trad, here I come….

RRP: £99.95

Stockists (http://redchili.de/core/dealer/en/dealer-uk)

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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Salewa Firetail GTX – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on June 09, 2013, 01:00:14 pm
Salewa Firetail GTX – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/06/09/salewa-firetail-gtx-climbing-gear-review/)
9 June 2013, 8:50 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/salewa-logo-resized.png?w=300&h=215) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/salewa-logo-resized.png) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/firetail-gtx-mens.png?w=584) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/firetail-gtx-mens.png)GCR test the new all mountain approach shoe from German gear company Salewa.
A revolutionary generation of approach footwear. The first link between the comfort and lightness of trail runners with the technical features of an alpine approach shoe.

Performance****

Style***

Value for Money****

We’ve been really pleased recently to be reviewing a variety of kit from mainland European manufacturers. Salewa (http://www.salewa.com/?s) have been one of these – the company’s history dates back to 1935 and was formed in Munich, Germany. They have been producing a vast array of technical alpine and climbing equipment since 1939 to a high quality, as you expect from a German manufacturer. A quick look through the website will show just how extensive their range is. They are huge on the continent and it’s difficult to climb in Europe without seeing someone with Salewa (http://www.salewa.com/?s) kit.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/my-trusty-salewa-biner.jpg?w=150&h=112) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/my-trusty-salewa-biner.jpg)My trusty Salewa biner-still going strong after 30 years! Indeed, my very first carabiner was a Salewa one; I bought it in 1983 and I still have it (although I use it for keeping my winter pegs on and not for taking whippers!) so the pedigree is solid.

The Firetail GTX (http://www.salewa.com/product/tech+approach/ws-firetail-gtx) approach shoe is one of an extensive range of approach shoes that Salewa offer, I would say they are an all mountain approach shoe and I have been using them all season for scrambling, easy climbs, long walks and instruction work. They have performed very well in all these areas.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/firetail-approach.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/firetail-approach.jpg)The Salewa Firetail GTX – a good all round approach shoe. The style is very much a technical one, with a climbing lace system and narrow toe profile. This profile was ideal for all rock climbing and scrambling activities. Once the lace system was tighten I could climb quite happily all day in them at VDiff and HVD, they were great for my instructional work where I often don’t want to be in climbing shoes. The laces were easy to tighten and loosen (important on descents). It was good to note that the they had proper eyelets and not the fabric ones that seem so popular. All the eyelet areas were reinforced, the three bottom ones with bar tacking, the another 4 with plastic and the top one with thicker plastic and steel – very beefy!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/firetail-gtx-climbing.jpg?w=584) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/firetail-gtx-climbing.jpg)The good climbing sole offers confidence. Climbing on a very polished Milestone Buttress, N.Wales.(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/salewa-firetail-gtx-lacing.jpg?w=135&h=180) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/salewa-firetail-gtx-lacing.jpg)The narrow profile and climbing lace system was good for climbing. The Firetail GTX (http://www.salewa.com/product/tech+approach/ws-firetail-gtx) toe profile, as I said was narrow but very comfortable. The toe box had a rand but it was only around the toe area . The rand was grippy enough to climb cracks, it was well glued in place and hasn’t yet shown any signs of peeling even though I have used them for quite a while in some demanding situations.

The main fabric for the shoe was a tight weave mesh with a more robust/reinforced mesh around the bottom parts, sole and heel. The shoe had a Gore-Tex sock which helped keep the water out on damp days. Of course they will leak eventually as water creeps over the top, but on those occasions I’ll wear a boot. They felt breathable enough and I never noticed my feet becoming too sweaty even when I’d been wearing them all day. The Silverized treatment meant that the odour was kept at bay, I’ve them several months now and they don’t smell at all. The material on the upper part of the foot was again reinforced with a crisscross pattern.

The tongue, heel and Achilles support were nice and padded, the tongue had further support and padding from a suede patch which is also designed to aid durability. Heel support is provided for with a plastic insert which cupped my heel nice and firm/ Further support was provided for with the 3F system – this comprised of a Y shaped wire (about the thickness of a micro-wire), tethered under the sole arch, it extends around the back of the heel and is tightened with the laces. This is designed to pull the heel in tight and provide support and performance. In practice I wasn’t aware of the benefits: it’s a nice German engineered feature but I’m not so sure it helped me move faster.

Although Salewa stated they were a cross between and running trainer and approach shoe, I didn’t really like running in them. I think, however that Salewa are referring to the styling rather than the running functionality, they are a great walking shoe though.I recently lead a charity Yorkshire 3 Peaks event, a gruelling 23 mile endurance event and wore them on a hot day with no blisters at all, they were ideal for this kind of activity. They were reasonably light and the trusty GCR scales weighed them in at 400g for a UK8. Style wise, they looked OK in casual situations, down the wall, lecturing/training but they didn’t look so good with jeans on in the pub. With technical climbing trousers they looked fine, so you’re going to be fine sipping that après route beer in the bar.

The sole unit was made using Vibram rubber. It had a dotty tread pattern and dedicated climbing zone with a nice, sharp edge for standing on edges and smearing. Vibram climbing rubber is now

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/salewa-firetail-gtx-sole.jpg?w=112&h=150) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/salewa-firetail-gtx-sole.jpg)The Vibram climbing rubber was sticky enough for rock climbing. very established and the sole was very grippy on rock. The whole sole unit felt very precise and you could tell they had been design for technical approaches to climbs and scrambling.  The heel had a PU shock absorber unit that kept heel strikes comfortable and there was more Vibram climbing rubber in this area. Further support was given under the arch with a shaped and stiff EVA midsole, my foot really did feel well supported.

There was a pull tab at the back, this was big enough to get a carabiner in for attachment to my harness but I would have liked to have seen in bigger and beefier. As a dedicated climbing approach shoe, I would like to have seen a system that could be easily used with carabiners to clip into a belay loop, pack and harness. It just didn’t look beefy enough: a minor point in what has proved to be a great all mountain shoe. The Salewa Firetail GTX (http://www.salewa.com/product/tech+approach/ws-firetail-gtx) approach shoes are ideal for all mountain activities from approach to hiking and instructional type work.

The styles come in men and womens versions as well as a non Gore-Tex model. Sizes UK6-11.5 plus 12 and 13 for men and UK3-9 in half sizes for women.

RRP £119.95

Stockists. (http://www.salewa.com/dealer-search)

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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: adidas Terrex Hybrid Soft Shell Vest-Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on June 14, 2013, 07:00:16 pm
adidas Terrex Hybrid Soft Shell Vest-Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/06/14/adidas-terrex-hybrid-soft-shell-vest-climbing-gear-review/)
14 June 2013, 4:25 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/adidas20logo.gif?w=300&h=220) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/adidas20logo.gif) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/terrex-tx-hyb-sosh-vest.png?w=159&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/terrex-tx-hyb-sosh-vest.png)  CGR tester Dave Sarkar tests the new 5 star, soft shell vest from über company adidas. Performance *****

Style****

Value for Money*****

This men’s adidas Terrex Hybrid Soft Shell Vest features GORE WINDSTOPPER® ACTIVE SHELL in a hybrid construction to keep you moving fast and remaining comfortably protected from the elements. This vest is lightweight and easy to pack.
In 2012 we reviewed the adidas Terrex Hybrid Softshell  (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/10/20/adidas-terrex-pro-hybrid-jacket-climbing-gear-review/)Jacket, since then adidas have continued to add to the Terrex (http://www.adidas.co.uk/outdoor-clothing) range and a look through the site will confirm their commitment to a dedicated outdoor range. With such huge resources behind the brand it’s only a matter of time before we start seeing as much of it in the UK as you do over on the European mainland.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/adidas-vest-trad-malham.jpg?w=640&h=792) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/adidas-vest-trad-malham.jpg)the adidas hybrid soft shell vest had great freedom of movement for climbing in. Wind and Wuthering, Malham Cove. What has impressed me in all the Terrex (http://www.adidas.co.uk/outdoor-clothing) kit I have reviewed in the 2013 Spring range are the clean lines, quality workmanship and use of well performing materials in the clothing; adidas are clearly determined to give all the main outdoor brands a run for their money.

The Terrex Hybrid Soft Shell Vest (http://www.adidas.co.uk/men's-terrex-hybrid-soft-shell-vest/Z08892_340.html) (or Gillet if you’re country folk) is a sleeveless Windstopper vest that has proved to be a very handy piece of kit. The entire front of the vest is made from Gore-Tex Windstopper Active Shell. This is a lightweight, three layer Windstopper with a light laminated layer on the inside – this helps with wicking and keeps dirt from clogging up the membrane (which affects the breathability of the material) and a carbon fibre style material on the outer which gave it a nice gunmetal finish. The Windstopper was continued onto the shoulder area, the back of the collar and an insert under the armpit down the ribs.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/adidas-vest-climbing.jpg?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/adidas-vest-climbing.jpg)It was great on those breezy days. Clogwyn y Grochan, N.Wales. This had the effect of providing a good windshield where I most needed it, at the front of my body. The rest of the vest was made from adidas’s own soft shell material: a thin and stretchy material that felt similar to Polartec Powershield. This was extremely breathable, quick drying and very light.

The cut was adidas Formation and was great for all the mountain activities I tested it in, there was little rise when under a harness and the vest felt brilliant for climbing in. The sleeves are elasticated and at first I thought it might have been a problem as it could be a little tight under the armpits. I haven’t found that though and it has helped keep some of the warmth in neither has it affected the climbing performance.

The zips were all YKK coil with the main one having a good, solid zip pull that was easy to use with gloves on. The draft guard was Windstopper with a Formotion backing. There is a small breast pocket on the left that was handy for phones, cameras, energy bars, etc. It was not big enough for maps or guidebooks though, this also had a solid zip pull that was great to use.

The vest also had two handwarmer pockets that were styled into the side seams of the vest. These were easy to use and were large enough for gloves, hats, etc. Again the pockets were not large enough for a full OS map but I did find that I could put a map or guidebook in the inside of the jacket on the right hand pocket. With a little bartacking and reinforcement this would be ideal. The pockets had restricted access with a harness on, but then it’s not specifically designed for just climbing in. The hem has one handed cinches which were easy to use with the micro toggles and also had a press stud closure. The collar had a nice, comfortable brushed liner that wicked sweat very quickly.

The soft shell material was very quick to dry, after arriving at the crag and taking off my pack the jacket dried off in about 15 minutes. There was a reflective adidas logo above the breast pocket and further reflective Windstopper and Terrex (http://www.adidas.co.uk/outdoor-clothing) logos near the waist. The adidas three stripes branding was on the shoulder, I really liked the style although it’s not the sort of vest I will be using for indoor training/lectures or casually as it looks too technical, but outdoors it looks great. The vest felt very light and compressible – the trusty CGR scales weighed it in at a mere 250g. It packed down to nothing in the pack.

I have no reservations in awarding the adidas Hybrid Softshell Vest (http://www.adidas.co.uk/men's-terrex-hybrid-soft-shell-vest/Z08892_340.html) 5 stars, it has been the most versatile piece of clothing I have worn this season. I have used it for everything: winter climbing, trad, sport climbing, bouldering, running and hiking and it has performed really well in all those activities, if I mountain biked I would use it for that as well! It was particularly good for winter approach and felt great under a full softshell or hardshell as an extra layer.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/adidas-terrex-fleece-mountains.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/04/adidas-terrex-fleece-mountains.jpg)adidas Terrex Hybrid Soft Shell – great for long days out in the mountains The jacket compressed well but to be honest once I had it on I tended to keep it on all day, so although it might feel a little expensive for a vest it is extremely versatile and you will find yourself wearing it all the time; definitely Editors Choice for Spring 2013.

RRP £75.00

Stockists (http://www.adidas.co.uk/outdoor-clothing)

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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: The North Face Gentle Stretch Cami and Krank Pants – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on June 20, 2013, 01:27:05 am
The North Face Gentle Stretch Cami and Krank Pants – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/06/19/the-north-face-gentle-stretch-cami-and-krank-pants-climbing-gear-review/)
19 June 2013, 6:26 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/tnf-logo.jpg?w=300&h=137) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/tnf-logo.jpg)

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CGR reviewer Katie takes a  look at the new summer wear from The North Face. (top)Value for money *****

(pant)Value for money ****

(both)Performance *****

(both)Quality *****

Rains pouring down outside, there’s a cold wind blowing and I have just opened a parcel that contains the brightest things I’ve seen in about 7 months!

I’ve been given the new season The North Face Krank pants (http://uk.thenorthface.com/tnf-uk-en/women-s/shop-by-category/trousers-pants/women-s-krank-pants.html) and Gentle Stretch Cami to try out.  Obviously I’ve had to wait a few weeks to try them out without catching pneumonia, but the time finally came, and I was straight out in them.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/tnf-boulder-1.jpg?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/tnf-boulder-1.jpg)The North Face Krank pants- gave great freedom to climb in. I’ll start with the Gentle Stretch Cami (http://uk.thenorthface.com/tnf-uk-en/women-s/shop-by-category/shirts-tops-t-shirts/women-s-gentle-stretch-cami-tank-top-4.html).    The cami is as it says, lovely and soft, made from cotton with a dab of elastane for stretch.  It comes in five colours, with mine being Fuschia, a really nice vibrant colour that hasn’t faded after a number of washes.  Washing wise, I’ve had it on a purely normal wash with other things and it’s stayed the same, no bobbling or stretching.

The back has cross over straps which look pretty and are a nice change, but it does dig in a bit on the cross over.  When wearing the cami without other items on top there is no issue with pressure on the spine, but under a couple of layers I could feel it pressing in a bit.  When worn with a cross back bra it’s pretty uncomfortable.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/tnf-krank-side.jpg?w=168&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/tnf-krank-side.jpg)The North Face Gentle Stretch Cami – comes in 5 colours But this cami is part of the collection based on Kalymnos climbing, so bearing this in mind, you’d probably be wearing a bikini top, or nothing underneath.  It has a built in shelf bra support so this may be enough for you; and it hasn’t ruined the top for me at all, I just modify what I wear with it.

The Gentle Stretch Cami (http://uk.thenorthface.com/tnf-uk-en/women-s/shop-by-category/shirts-tops-t-shirts/women-s-gentle-stretch-cami-tank-top-4.html) is £24.00, a pretty standard price for a nice top.  It’s good quality and fits well.  I’m a size 6-8 top and I got an XS, this fitted me perfectly.

The second item was the Krank pant (http://uk.thenorthface.com/tnf-uk-en/women-s/shop-by-category/trousers-pants/women-s-krank-pants.html).  A climbing specific pant that caters for boulderers too big wall climbers.

They come in two colours, I received the Flamenco blue but they also come in a more subdued purple grey (grand purple).  They are definitely eye catching and coordinate surprisingly well with most things.

The trousers are made from VapourWick stretch Nylon, and they are great; you wouldn’t have better movement if you only had underpants on!  They have a diamond crotch and elasticated waist.  The waist band is probably the only minor negative; it’s quite thick and pulls the trousers up higher round your waist as you climb.  I have the XS size and I’m a 8-10 in trousers.  I think they fit well, but maybe if I’d gone up a size the waist wouldn’t be an issue at all.  They have articulated knees which add to the free movement, and UPF 50 sun protection, maybe not as necessary here but in a hotter climate well needed.

Nicely placed pockets on front and back, and draw cords on the ankles for anti snagging finish off a well thought out pair of climbing pants.

The VapourWick Nylon is meant to draw excess moisture to regulate body temperature, I can’t really say if it works or not but I’ll take TNF’s word for it.

Obviously I was pretty keen to try the Krank pants (http://uk.thenorthface.com/tnf-uk-en/women-s/shop-by-category/trousers-pants/women-s-krank-pants.html) out, so I was a little gung-ho at times with the weather.  I went out a couple of times in them when it turned out it wasn’t quite as sunny as I’d hoped; but I was really surprised as to how much they kept out the wind!

I’ve enjoyed wearing them a lot and because they’re so light and take up so little space, I take them with me everywhere, just in case it turns out to be a sunny day.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/tnf-boulder-2.jpg?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/tnf-boulder-2.jpg)TNF Krank pants – light and compressible. These are the things that make a good item of climbing clothing; durability, flexibility, light weight and comfortable; the Krank pants are all of the above.

The cost of The North Face Krank Pants (http://uk.thenorthface.com/tnf-uk-en/women-s/shop-by-category/trousers-pants/women-s-krank-pants.html) is £70.00, a bit more than the average climbing pant, but around the same as some of the more designery brands.  I think if you spent £70.00 on them you wouldn’t be disappointed.  They do everything they say they do, which is refreshing, and they won’t go unnoticed by others! I wore the cami and pants together and was asked if I’d come straight from the 70’s -I take that as a compliment ; )

RRP Gentle Stretch Cami £24.00, Krank Pants £70.00

Stockists (http://uk.thenorthface.com/tnf-uk-en/)

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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Red Chili Nacho – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on June 23, 2013, 01:00:16 pm
Red Chili Nacho – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/06/23/red-chili-nacho-climbing-gear-review/)
23 June 2013, 8:47 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/logo_redchili.png?w=250&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/logo_redchili.png)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/red-chili-nacho-2013.jpg?w=300&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/red-chili-nacho-2013.jpg)

CGR reviewer Dave Sarkar relives his glory days with the Red Chili Nacho Performance ****

Style ***

Value for Money ****

The Nacho is a full-blooded slipper and perfects Red Chili’s high-end segment of climbing shoes. As we would expect from a slipper, the Nacho has a very soft and sensitive sole construction.
Slippers go back a long way, they were very popular in the late 80’s when Boreal bought out their eponymous Ninjas. I remember doing laps on Raindogs in Ninjas, I thought (at the time) they were the ultimate climbing shoe. Since then slippers have come and gone and they have been largely replaced with Velcro fastening shoes. But they are making a comeback and some die hards would argue they never went away.

It was a real delight to test a pair of Red Chili Nachos (http://redchili.de/en/climbingshoes/performance/nacho.html) as it gave me a chance to pretend I was in my twenties again and training on 8a’s at Malham.  They certainly looked the part straight out the box. They are a fully elasticated and enclosed slipper and in true 80’s style it took me a full two weeks of wearing them in plastic bags before I could get them on. I initially received a pair in a UK7 but I had to exchange them for my normal rock shoe size of a UK7.5.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/img_0214.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/img_0214.jpg)Smearing smooth on Mr.Smooth. Caley Boulders Once I had broken them in I have been able to get them on and off quite quickly, except when my feet are hot, then they take a bit of squeezing into this is because of the fit. The fit is aggressive and asymmetrical, but overly radical. The toe area is flat (that is the toe doesn’t point down) and the profile is narrow. The heel is fully encased in rubber and well fitted, there was some space between the shoe and my heel but this was minimal and I never felt any creep when heel hooking. As I said earlier they took a little effort to get on and the best method I found was to put the shoe on the ground and force my feet into the toe area whilst pulling on the heel tabs, there are three large, handy tabs to help pull the shoe over the foot and bring the shoe into place.

The styling on the Red Chili Nacho (http://redchili.de/en/climbingshoes/performance/nacho.html) was very modern and loud, lots of red and white with plenty of graphic detail gave it a very edgy (excuse the pun) appearance. Very grungy and subculture like, which is exactly what what bouldering is! They did draw some comments on the crag but then I hang out with old skool climbers a lot and not so many young dudes! Younger climbers will like the styling and they didn’t stay white very long.

I thought the fit was very good and found none of the movement that was typical in the old type slippers. The shoe was held firmly in place using a double layer of elastic. The fold was quite clever with its slight change of angle thereby helping to have the elastic working in two directions. The cover was nice and high, it needs to be in slippers as there in no lacing. It came right up the midtarsal joint of the foot. There was also a layer of rand that wrapped around the heel to help keep the heel in place.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/img_0220.jpg?w=640&h=853) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/img_0220.jpg)A good heel profile was great for hooking. Caley boulders. (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/img_0313.jpg?w=150&h=112) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/img_0313.jpg)Still in good shape after several months of use. The main material is rubber Red Chili Super Friction RX-2 (more on this later) , there is a full rand, the extra around the Achilles area and the toe area is almost entirely encased in rubber except for a small area around the little toe. The only reason I can think of as to why this area has been left uncovered is because the little toe tends to be very scrunched up in climbing shoes and leaving the area without rubber could alleviate the pain. The rest of the shoe was made up of synthetic leather and the large patches of elastic. The shoe was fully lined, not with canvas, but a softer pile lining that helped make the shoe quite nice on. They have not been smelly at all which you can sometimes get with a synthetic material. The top of the shoe was finished with piping around the Achilles area.  The fit around the Achilles was comfortable, I have had no issues with rubbing in this area.

So that’s the fit and the materials so how about the performance? The Red Chili Nacho (http://redchili.de/en/climbingshoes/performance/nacho.html) is marketed as a bouldering shoe and that’s how I’ve used them most of the time. I’ve used them at Malham and Kilnsey, I felt they performed a little better on the steeper routes at Kilnsey. They edged OK at Malham but my feet got tired after a couple of routes in them. Now to the bouldering, for this activity they excelled the fit was great for gritsone and the 4.5mm RX-2 rubber sole was very grippy. The thickness and duarability are just right, I have been using them for several months now and the shoes still have a good edge.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/img_0275.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/img_0275.jpg)The Red Chili Nachos performed well on steep limestone. Parisellas Cave, Pen Trywn. I was happy bouldering on both steep ground and slabs, the edges were good and the toe profile precise. At first I thought they were quite stiff (too stiff for grit) but after a month or so they have softened up nicely. They come with a very thin midsole and this has help retain some lateral stiffness in the sole and prevent them going too floppy. They have also been good on limestone bouldering, even the hideously polished Minus Ten Wall at Stoney was OK as long as I kept the rubber dry and clean. The toe profile and rubber meant that toe hooks could be dispensed with precisely and I felt no real creep when ‘scumming’ rock and what creep I did feel was more my lack of power than anything else.

I’ve also used them at the bouldering wall all spring and they have performed great, I can see them performing just as well on leading routes (I haven’t been indoors very much this spring as I’m very close to some great bouldering and limestone climbing). So, in conclusion, the Red Chili Nachos have been a great climbing shoe to use, I have used them for a variety of bouldering situations and they have performed brilliantly for this activity. They will be fine for short sport climbs but your feet may get tired on longer more vertical ones, they would be fine on very steep stalactite cave routes. If you find lace-ups and velcro shoes a pain and like the slipper style you’ll like these.

SRP £##.##

Stockists (http://redchili.de/core/dealer/en/dealer-uk)

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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Black Diamond Half Dome – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on June 26, 2013, 07:00:13 pm
Black Diamond Half Dome – Climbing Gear Review (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/06/26/black-diamond-half-dome-climbing-gear-review/)
26 June 2013, 5:39 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/blackdiamond_standrd_neg.jpg?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/blackdiamond_standrd_neg.jpg)   (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/620206_halfdome_blzd.png?w=257&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/620206_halfdome_blzd.png) CGR tests out the new and re-vamped Half Dome helmet from Black Diamond.
Completely redesigned from the ground up…the Half Dome is an all-purpose workhorse ideal for everything from trad cragging to alpine expeditions.
Style****

Performance****

Value*****

I have been a helmet user for some time now, I wear one when instructing, coaching and guiding as well as personally in the mountains and for all winter climbing.

I have used both types of helmet – the high density extruded foam type such as the Black Diamond Meteor and the ABS type like the Half Dome. For outcrop climbing such as grit and lowland crags I use the Meteor type as the main danger is from banging my head against the rock face when I fall off. In the mountains I prefer the ABS hard shell type as there is an added danger of a rock falling down on me as well as ice in the winter.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/img_0305.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/img_0305.jpg)BD Half Dome – comfortable and stylish. I have used a Black Diamond Half Dome (http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-gb/shop/climb/helmets/half-dome-helmet) for some time now as I still have a Mark 1 model. I liked the ease of adjustability and the way it sat tightly on my head without moving – which some other models did.

The new, updated model is real improvement on what was already a very good and popular helmet. The basics are still the same, a moulded ABS shell with a small expended foam crown insert and a cradle. The main changes are the fit and cosmetic detailing and I must say they are a great improvement.

The first point of note is the addition of enlarged ventilation slots, this helps keeps your head cooler and reduces the weight. The slots worked best on windy days and on the occasions I wore the helmet when it was raining I did find some water did find its way through (although I should add I’m often so wet that a bit of water on my head is neither here nor there).

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/p1030866.jpg?w=150&h=112) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/p1030866.jpg)Out with the old and in with the new. Improved styling and ventillation. The styling is also a great improvement on the mark 1, the style looks much more modern and streamlined. There are 5 colours to choose from and 2 sizes so there should a combination that you like. I think this has contributed to more people wearing helmets, more colour choice and better styling means people are more likely to wear one – and that can only be a good thing.

The headtorch clips worked very well at keeping my headtorch in place. I have a lot of trouble with helmets and headtorches in the past and I’m pleased to note that the new clips work much better than the mark 1 clips. They are nicely colour co-ordinated and were easy to locate in the dark as they contrasted with the main helmet colour.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/img_0283.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/img_0283.jpg)BD Half Dome was good to wear with a pack on. The other main improvement is the fit – this is achieved by the improved cradle which sits nicely under the occipital bone at the back of the skull. Adjustment was very easy using the wheel adjuster, which was great to use, even with my winter climbing gloves on I could adjust the cradle easily as the wheel had some grippy rubber on it.

The side and chin straps were similar to the mark 1 the main change being a buckled chin strap which does away with the double strap and increased the comfort. They were as easy to adjust, but not in the field with gloves so you would need to make sure that it was adjusted to fit before you went out. This is time well spent as once adjusted they stayed in place nicely and I didn’t have that movement where the helmet looks like it’s some sort of comic prop and looks skew whiff as seems to happen on plenty of other sorts of helmets that I’ve used.

All in all the Black Diamond Half Dome (http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-gb/shop/climb/helmets/half-dome-helmet) is a great, all round helmet. It’s not as stylish as some, it’s heavier than the polystyrene ones but it is more compact and a great improvement on what was already a good helmet. I feel Black Diamond have done a great job in re-vamping the Half Dome and if you looking for a well priced helmet for all seasons then you won’t go far wrong.

RRP £49.99

Stockists. (http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-gb/dealers)

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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Personal Anchor Systems – a CGR buyers’ guide
Post by: comPiler on June 29, 2013, 01:00:18 pm
Personal Anchor Systems – a CGR buyers’ guide (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/06/29/personal-anchor-systems-a-cgr-buyers-guide/)
29 June 2013, 9:15 am

A CGR look at modern belay and anchor systems – are they better than just the rope? (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/personal-anchor-sytems.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/personal-anchor-sytems.jpg)Personal Anchor Systems collection – we tested all these systems. Anchoring to the rock – a crucial skill to develop if there ever one. In my 30+ years of climbing and mountaineering I’ve seen some shocking belays, including some of my own (in the early days)! I often climb with friends who send 8b but upon arrival at a trad belay are covered in knitting with a couple of dodgy runners tied together with god knows what.

I really began to develop my belay skills winter climbing, it’s straightforward to learn on a nice sunny day with an easy stance but winter conditions with gloves and challenging conditions I really learned to put together belays quickly. Any item of equipment that is going to help be more efficient at belaying is going to be a good investment. Working with clients has also allowed me to develop bombproof and efficient belays, it’s a crucial skill for all climbers and time needs to be spent honing it up.

A personal anchor system or PAS is a system that anchors you to the belay and this article focusses on this. All these anchor systems rely on the belay being built with an equaliser and power loop.

We have group tested all the current systems (bar one) on the market to see what the advantages and disadvantages are:

Using the rope Ease of use***

Safety Factor*****

The most common system: arrive at the stance, build your bombproof belay and clip in via clove hitches or figure eights. This simple system has stood the test of time and doesn’t need a power loop system. It’s cheap (no extra kit to buy), it can be quick and everyone knows (or should do) how it’s used. The drawbacks are it uses rope (if you have a single rope and are using the there back, there back system you can require up to 5m of rope) – this isn’t an issue on a grit route or short pitches, but on long Alpine pitches or winter routes you may need every metre of rope. Mistakes can also be made with equalisation with often catastrophic consequences for failure. It is also more complex to escape the system in an emergency.

Typical RRP: £0

Knotted cord/sling Ease of use***

Safety Factor ***

I have been using this system for several years and have tried both the 6mm perlon cord and a 4ft sling. You may have come across this with climbers clipping a sling on their harness and using it like that – I’ve even seen some climbers using an 8ft sling like this! Most climbers just use them open, as in larks foot the sling into the rap loop of a harness, clip a karabiner into the other end and off you go! The advantages are – it’s an item of equipment you already have, that’s it. The disadvantages are numerous; there have been some well documented failures of this system and its failure to hold a shock load when fallen on. It had very little adjustability, that is when you clip into the belay you cannot adjust for distance, etc. Do not underestimate this vital element of any system as you need to remain tight on any belay system – unless the belay is rubbish when I usually find praying is the best option. The system can be improved by the addition of a knot – I found that this gave me two options for clipping into a belay with but no other advantage other than that. This does, however, reduce the KN rating significantly.

Typical RRP £4-£7.50

Nylon/Dyneema Daisy Chain. Ease of use ****

Safety Factor**

I have also used a normal daisy chain as a personal anchor which works better than a knotted sling as you can have more adjustable options. The main problem is that you must not, under any circumstances, belay off any of the chains as they often only have a strength rating of 2kN. This only makes them useful for directly hanging onto at a belay station and hanging gear onto. I have now superseded this system with the safer PAS slings.

Typical RRP: £10-£15

Beal Dynaclip (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/beal-dynaclip.jpg?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/beal-dynaclip.jpg)Beal Dynaclip – sewn 9mm cord Ease of use***

Safety Factor****

I’ve had one of these for a while now; it’s basically a length of 9mm cord sewn into a large and small loop with a single strand of cord between them. One end you larks foot into your harness and the other holds a screwgate. The ends are encased in plastic to aid durability and protect the sewn area from abrasion.  The idea is that the system is more dynamic than a static sling and therefore absorbs more force. They come in two lengths 40 and 75cms; I have the 40cm one. The main disadvantage is the fixed length with no adjustability. I bought mine in Decathlon and we have no price information for the UK. More info can be found here.

SRP £19.00

Edelrid Adjustable Belay Station (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/edelrid-abs1.jpg?w=148&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/edelrid-abs1.jpg)

The adjustable belay station sling offers for the first time in a sling, adjustability in the length whatever the situation without reducing strength by making knots.
Ease of use***

Safety Factor *****

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/img_0163.jpg?w=112&h=150) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/img_0163.jpg)This is an adjustable belay equalising system – we’ve been testing it for a while now and found it very useful. It has been most useful for rock climbing as it was a little more awkward to use with gloves on. It just carry’s on your torso like a sling and is reasonably quick to set up. The system works more efficiently than using an 8ft sling as an equaliser, you place your anchors, clip one side into one with a clove hitch, clip the other side into the other anchor with a little slack between the two and use the adjusting side that has a buckle on it (similar to the buckle you find on a modern harness), then adjust to tension the system. It sounds a little complicated but it’s quite simple – we’ve produced a video on how to use it for our YouTube channel.

The safety rating in 22kN, so stronger than your wire. The only issues I had with using the ABS was it felt quite thick which made it awkward to use with winter gloves on and a little bulky in general. It was great for guiding and setting up belays for clients, setting up abseil stations for cragging, great for Alpine multi pitch routes and good for ice screw belays.

RRP £22.50

Stockists (http://www.edelrid.de/index.php?option=com_sobi2&catid=15&Itemid=576)

Personal Anchor Systems. Ease of use****

Safety Factor*****

These are sewn slings similar to linked quickdraws. The advantages of using these belay systems are that they are bombproof, each link is 22kN. When you think a normal daisy chain link is 2kN then you can see the advantage. So each link is as strong as a sewn sling in which you can clip into, they can be used in a variety of situations. I have tied one around a tree and just clipped it in. I have clipped them into two wires for a direct belay and used them for multi abseils and clipping into multi pitch trad and bolted routes. It also makes escaping the system a much more simple affair. We have tested the two main ones on the market:

Metolius PAS 22 (http://beyondhope.co.uk/our-brands/metolius/) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/pas-22-orange_blue-e1371977653184.png?w=300&h=69) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/pas-22-orange_blue-e1371977653184.png)Metolius PAS 22 – fitted around my waist perfectly
Completely redesigned PAS with 11 mm (0.43″) webbing that now passes the CE/UIAA  Sling Standard
(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/pas-abbing.jpg?w=112&h=150) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/pas-abbing.jpg)The PAS 22 was great for multi pitch abs and clipping into belays. This comes with a large end loop with which you larks foot to your harness. It comes with or without a screw gate, either way you need one.  I liked this PAS device, mainly because it fitted neatly around my 32” waist. It has 5 useable loops which are double layered to provide 22kN strength rated slings. The end sling is a different colour so that you can identify which end the screw gate goes into, this could be important in low light abseils for exaple the time we had to do 5 abs from an ice route with just our phones for torches! I have used it in a variety of situations and I found it indispensable for ice climbing and my instruction work. I find myself using it more and more for multi pitch climbing. A good piece of kit and a good sturdy build. Upon arriving at a stance you just un clip the Metolius PAS 22 from around your waist and clip it directly into the belay with whichever loop fits in to keep the belay tensioned. Also great for abseils.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/pas-equalised.jpg?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/pas-equalised.jpg)very versatile for all sorts of equalizing options. SRP £42.00 (with screw gate) £35.00 (without)

Stockists (http://beyondhope.co.uk/stockists/metolius-stockists/)

Grivel Daisy Chain (http://www.grivelgb.co.uk/) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/grivel-daisy-chain.png?w=300&h=200) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/grivel-daisy-chain.png)The Grivel Dasiy Chain – felt lighter and was longer than the PAS 22 (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/gdc-longer.jpg?w=112&h=150) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/gdc-longer.jpg)The longer length of the Grivel Daisy Chain was good for out of reach belays. This again comes with a large, sewn end with which you larks foot into your harness, 6 useable loops and a sewn end sling that accepts a screw gate. The Grivel Daisy Chain (http://www.grivelgb.co.uk/) has 6 loops and so is a loop longer than the Metolius PAS, each loop is also slightly bigger. It therefore ends up about a loop longer as the larks foot sling is slightly smaller.  The Grivel daisy Chain also feels lighter and more subtle to use as there is only one layer of tape in the sewn loop which gives 23kN of strength. Again this has proved a great piece of kit and the longer length has been an advantage on occasion. The longer length meant it didn’t fit as neatly around my waist as I needed to clip it a little further around, but if you have a bigger waist it would ideal. I have also stashed it over my head as I just wrapped it behind my head and clipped it into the available loop, this has worked fine.  Kiev has used one of these for a while now and really rates it, he says he wouldn’t climb in winter or The Alps without one; it’s been great for all sorts of belay and abseil scenarios.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/gdc-belaying.jpg?w=300&h=225) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/gdc-belaying.jpg)Using the Grivel Daisy Chain in ‘guide’ mode. Great for ‘hands free’ options. SRP £35.00

Stockists (http://www.grivelgb.co.uk/)

There isn’t much to differentiate between both anchor systems part from the length and lightness of the Grivel Daisy Chain, they are both very useful items and should be on the harness of every winter and multi pitch climber.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/kong-slyde.jpg?w=150&h=150) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/06/kong-slyde.jpg)Kong Slyde – an inexpensive adjusting PAS Finally we have the Kong Slyde, I saw a couple of Spanish guys using these ice climbing in Cogne a year or so ago and thought they were a great idea.  The plate works like a friction device and self-locks when tension is applied. You put a screwgate into one of the holes and the other sections 9mm cord is threaded through with a stopper knot at the end (very important!). Clip the screwgate into the belay and pull the knotted end to get the required tension, very simple. I’ve been trying to get one of these to try out for a while now but can’t find a UK stockist; still I’m sure I’ll find one on my next visit to The Alps. So no price info but you can find more info on the Kong site: www.kong.it (http://www.kong.it/).

We’ve tried to be as comprehensive as possible with our collection of devices but if we have missed one out then just let us know through the comments sections and we’ll update the article.

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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: The North Face Verto Plasma – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on July 07, 2013, 07:00:07 pm
The North Face Verto Plasma – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/07/07/the-north-face-verto-plasma-climbing-gear-review/)
7 July 2013, 5:30 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/tnf-logo.jpg?w=300&h=137) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/tnf-logo.jpg)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/tnf-verto-plasma.jpg?w=257&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/tnf-verto-plasma.jpg)

CGR tests out the new Verto Plasma approach shoe from The North Face. Performance****

Style*****

Value for money****

When you need cushioned support and protection along load-laden approaches and scrambles, choose The North Face Men’s Verto Plasma hiking shoe.
We’ve highlighted and reviewed several approach shoes this season from general hiking and running to climbing/alpine specific and it’s been good to note the variety on offer. There’s a shoe out there for any specific purpose you would want. The North Face Verto Plasma (http://uk.thenorthface.com/tnf-uk-en/men-s/shop-by-category/footwear-shoes/men-s-verto-plasma-shoes-1.html) shoes come into the general hiking/approach category. The North Face (http://uk.thenorthface.com/tnf-uk-en/) has an extensive array of footwear in the catalogue but the Verto Plasma is placed in the high end Summit Series range – The TNF have designed all their Summit Series equipment for serious climbers and high achieving athletes. So do they live up to the mantle?

Let’s look at the style, these were a great looking shoe to have on and they always drew comments from fellow climbers at Malham, the climbing wall or just out and about. They have definitely been the most stylish shoe I have tested this season and look great in casual clothing. They have a full, climbing lace system that keeps the toe area in place for climbing and scrambling. The front of the shoe is encased in made with pig suede so vegetarians may have an ethical issue in wearing them. The lacing area widened out slightly to give it a very stylish profile. The rest of the upper was made from reinforced mesh nylon that TNF named ballistic nylon. This had further reinforcement from a cross hatch laminated to the fabric. It has withstood plenty of knocks and has been very breathable.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/tnf-plasma-approach.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/tnf-plasma-approach.jpg)The North face Verto Plasma was a great looking shoe for all climbing activity. The lacing area was excellent, extra reinforced material and proper eyelets for the first 4 lace holes means I expect the lacing system to last the life of the shoe, so well done TNF for getting this right. The tongue was nicely padded and breathable; there was a handy tab on the tongue for pulling the shoe on and there was also a patch of the synthetic suede to give the tongue a little extra durability in the lacing area.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/img_0316.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/img_0316.jpg)The North Verto Plasma – a well made, technical approach shoe. The shoe benefited from a full rand which helped in climbing and scrambling and easy climbing situations. It was this that set the shoe apart from being just a hiking or running type shoe into something that was specially designed for climbers and mountaineers. I did use the shoes for scrambling and they were fine for routes up to grade 3 scrambles, when I got onto proper rock climbs I felt that I needed a better edge, the stiffness felt OK though and I was comfortable on routes up to HVD, which is the sort of route I’m using for group sessions. The shoe felt fine for all guiding and instruction purposes as well as my recreational climbing.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/img_0291.jpg?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/img_0291.jpg)The shoe was great on all technical terrain. The heel was excellent, it felt very stable due to the TPU heel cradle, this was a very hard plastic cradle at the back which really clamped the heel into the shoe. This was great and I felt the difference on very stony terrain such as scree approaches and going downhill. Don’t be put off by the look of it, it doesn’t lift the heel higher as it’s just a cradle and not a full width insert; it was a good feature. Talking of heels I thought the heel strike was quite firm on these shoes, the shoe’s specification state that the footbed is upgraded EVA and it definitely felt very firm throughout. This meant running in the shoe for long periods (like when I had to run back to the car from Crummackdale as I’d left my phone and wallet on the dashboard) became a little uncomfortable – but then the shoe is not designed as a running shoe. If you like a firm feel to a shoe you will definitely like these. Finally on the heel there was a pull tab, the tab wasn’t overly large but it was big enough to get a biner through it, I would have liked to have seen it bigger so that I could fit two shoes together and clip them to my harness. I also felt it could have been bar tacked for extra durability as this is an area the shoe is likely to fail in as the shoe is swinging around on your harness.

The sole was made from Vibram Masai rubber which was very grippy. It had two patterns on it the toe and heel area was a dotty style pattern for extra friction, the rest had the lug structure of a hiking shoe. The sole performed well in all the tests I put it through from rock approaches to teetering around upstairs at Malham – not a place to have a slip! I’ve not had any problems at all with the friction of the sole, the Vibram Masai rubber is a dual density rubber designed to give friction and durability, I’ve noticed very little wear in the 8 weeks I’ve been testing them.

To sum up I have found The North Face Verto Plasma (http://uk.thenorthface.com/tnf-uk-en/men-s/shop-by-category/footwear-shoes/men-s-verto-plasma-shoes-1.html) a great all round climbing approach shoe, I’ve used them recreationally and they have drawn good comments from everyone that has seen them. They are very stylish and I have worn them for my lecturing and training activities. For climbing and approach they have performed in the way a high end Summit Series shoe is supposed to –a shoe for serious climbers.

SRP £115.00

Stockists. (http://uk.thenorthface.com/tnf-uk-en/ustorelocator/location/map/)

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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Edelrid Swift 8.9mm Rope – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on July 13, 2013, 01:00:10 pm
Edelrid Swift 8.9mm Rope – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/07/13/edelrid-swift-8-9mm-rope-climbing-gear-review/)
13 July 2013, 7:44 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/swift.jpg?w=640&h=135) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/swift.jpg)Edelrid Swift 8.9mm Triple Rated Rope (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/edelrid-01-4c-bg-20.jpg?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/edelrid-01-4c-bg-20.jpg) Kev puts Ederid’s 8.9mm triple rated rope to the test in a wide variety of situations. But is it three times as good? Performance *****

Durability *****

Value for money*****

Edelrid say:

One rope – three certifications. With its 8.9 mm diameter, the Swift is one of the skinniest single ropes on the market. It is a single rope, double rope and twin rope all in one.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/p1050785.jpg?w=512&h=288) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/p1050785.jpg)Perfect used as a single rope for direct rock pitches. Here on the Frendo Spur. This is a long-term test of a fairly specialist climbing rope from Edelrid. The Swift 8.9mm rope is part of a new breed of triple rated ropes, designed versatility and lightweight in mind. A triple rated rope is designed and rated to be used in all 3 common climbing rope applications. Namely single (use on it’s own), twin (use as a pair with another similar diameter rope and clip both ropes into each piece of protection) and finally, double (the system us Brits are most familiar with where we use two ropes of the same diameter but clip them separately into different pieces of protection). You may think, ok so what is so special? I can use any rope in those 3 ways can’t I? Well yes, you can but it doesn’t mean they can be officially classified as such. Having done a bit of research, it is actually remarkably tricky to produce a rope which complies with test standards for all three specifications.

I’ve used the Edelrid Swift 8.9mm rope for a while now and have tested it in all of the 3 situations named above. I have used it as a single rope to save weight on technical alpine routes and also to simplify rope work. I like to use a single rope on routes where there is a mixture of pitched technical climbing, but also easier sections where you are required to take coils and move together. On climbs where an abseil retreat may be necessary I would carry 60m of 6mm cord to use as a pull line. This is a versatile system and allows fast movement on technical ground. The Swift I tested was a 70m length and I like the versatility of a longer rope as it allows bigger pitches to be climbed, increasing speed and also giving the opportunity to find better belay anchors. You also have the option of 35 metre abseils just by doubling the rope.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/p1060081.jpg?w=512&h=288) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/p1060081.jpg)Edelrid Swift, set up for abseiling using a pull line, descending Pinnochio on Mt Blanc du Tacul’s East Face. As well as on alpine climbs, I have used the Swift as a single rope for some specific sport climbing projects due to it light weight, superb handling and smooth running characteristics. I must highlight though, that this is not a route for working your sport project and although I have found it to be extremely durable for a rope of this type, constant short falls and ‘dogging’ will be sure to give premature wear. I did however, use it on a number of occasions whilst trying to redpoint a single 65 metre F8b pitch when I wanted to keep the weight of the rope and associated drag, to a minimum. The Swift was perfect for this.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/img_1494.jpg?w=512&h=682) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/img_1494.jpg)Sport climbing with the Swift A WORD OF CAUTION: The Swift is not designed for use with a standard self-locking belay device such as the original GriGri. It needs a specialist device due to the small diameter. Edelrid’s Eddy and Mega Jul or Petzl’s GriGri2 work perfectly.

For UK trad climbers, the Swift is a versatile rope as you can use it on its own on short direct pitches but also add another similar diameter rope to convert to a double rope system. This has cost benefits as you don’t then need to buy a single rope and 2 double rated ropes.

I must confess that I only used the Swift as a twin rope (clipping that and another similar diameter rope into the same karabiner) a couple of times. Maybe this is a British mentality as UK climbers tend to use this system less often than climbers on mainland Europe. It does have benefits though. On direct mountain pitches you have the ropework simplicity (almost) of one rope, but the safety of 2 should one become damaged. You also have a system that allows you to do full length abseils on descent.

Handling

The Swift handles superbly. It uncoiled without twists  pretty much straight out of the packaging and works smoothly with a variety of belay devices. It is a reasonably stiff feeling rope for something of this diameter but I think Edelrid have got the balance between stiffness and durability, just about perfect. The Swift coils easily and kinks very little for a thin rope.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/p1060086.jpg?w=512&h=683) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/p1060086.jpg)Taking coils crossing the glacier on the way back to the Aiguille du Midi Durability

Although the Swift is a specialist rope and definitely not designed as an out and out sport climbing rope, I have found it to be incredibly durable, in fact more so than other dedicated single ropes that I own. As I mentioned earlier, I have used the Swift for a number of applications, regularly and over a 12 month period and it still shows very little signs of wear. The dry treatment has helped with this and the rope picks up very little dirt and moisture. It also has not given me any problems whatsoever in terms of freezing up.

Conclusion

The Edelrid Swift 8.9mm triple rated rope is my current favourite rope. It’s not the rope to go for if you want a single dedicated rope for one application. It’s a bit more specialist and as such it will be suited to mountain professional, alpinists and those who are looking to save weight, rather than those wanting a rope suited to everyday cragging.

 

 

Price: 50m – £160, 60m – £190, 70m – £225

Stockists:



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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Arc’teryx Gamma SL Hybrid Hoody – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on July 17, 2013, 01:00:46 am
Arc’teryx Gamma SL Hybrid Hoody – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/07/16/arcteryx-gamma-sl-hybrid-hoody-climbing-gear-review/)
16 July 2013, 9:30 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx1.jpg?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx1.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/1342708457-23436600.jpg?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/1342708457-23436600.jpg) Is the Arc’teryx Gamma SL Hbrid Hoody the best Summer climbing softshell? Kev Avery finds out…. Performance: ****

Quality:*****

Style:*****

Arc’teryx say the Gamma SL Hybrid Hoody is:

“A lightweight hoody designed for weight-conscious alpine specialists moving quickly over mixed terrain. A hybrid of a durable, weather-resistant fabric in high-wear areas and a lightweight, quick drying, breathable fabric in the main body that accentuates heat and moisture control with high weather protection.”

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/p1050829.jpg?w=640&h=858) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/p1050829.jpg)The Arc’teryx Gamma SL Hybrid Hoody is perfect for Summer Alpine rock climbing. Here Garry Philips puts his through its paces on the Grand Charmoz. The Gamma SL Hybrid is a fully featured lightweight softshell jacket, designed for fast moving pursuits in a mixture of weather conditions. It is not however, a waterproof jacket!

I have used the Gamma SL Hybrid Hoody for a number of different activities: Ice and mixed climbing in the Alps in November, ski touring in Spring, Summer rock climbing, scrambling and also Scottish winter climbing on days when the weather has been reasonably moisture free. It is a very versatile softshell jacket and it is also very well featured.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/942639_10151611084885552_1152882304_n.jpg?w=640&h=853) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/942639_10151611084885552_1152882304_n.jpg)The Arc’teryx Gamma SL Hybrid Hoody is great for UK rock climbing on those less than perfect days. As you’d expect from Arc’teryx, the cut is superb, almost tailored in fact. This means that there is only fabric where you need it, not where you don’t. The whole garment is anatomicaly shaped.  The sleeves are articulated, and don’t pull or cause the hem to ride up when you are climbing and have your hands above your head. This is also aided by the underarm gussets. Cuffs are secured by simple and effective Velcro cinch tabs and these are easy to operate, even whilst wearing gloves.

The jacket isn’t too long, sitting just above the hip so it works well with a climbing harness. The harness hemlock feature (and the excellent cut mentioned earlier) ensures that the Gamma doesn’t ride up when climbing and stays put below your harness.  The hem can be easily adjusted using glove friendly hem drawcords.

The hood on the Gamma SL Hybrid Hoody is simply awesome. It gives amazing head coverage without compromising visibility and is easy to adjust via adjustable drawcords, even whilst wearing gloves. It works perfectly over a climbing helmet and doesn’t feel your neck is being compressed when you put it up.

The Gamma has a laminated chest pocket and 2 laminated handwarmer pockets, all with glove friendly tabs. It doesn’t have any internal pockets. None of the pockets interfere with a harness although if the hand pockets are full then they do tend to feel like they’re impeding your waist belt a little. If this was an out and out climbing jacket then I think Arc’teryx could happily dispense with the 2 handwarmer pockets. As more of an all-round mountain piece though, they work fine.

The jacket closes via a full length Vislon zip with windguard and laminated soft touch chin guard. The zip is sturdy and smooth to use and the cord zipper tab works well with gloves despite being rather thin.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/p1050991.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/p1050991.jpg)The Arc’teryx Gamma SL Hybrid Hoody is perfect for Spring to Autumn alpinism. Here used on the Goulotte Profit Perroux in late October. The hood on this jacket is fantastic. The fabrics used on the Gamma SL are where the Hybrid part of the name comes into play. Basically Arc’teryx construct the garment out of 2 different fabrics. Both fabrics stretch to aid with ease of movement and both are treated with a DWR (Durable Water Repellent) finish to help moisture bead away from the surface and not soak in. Neither fabric is waterproof or 100% windproof but they will protect from snow, light showers and all but the harshest of wind. In fact in terms of windproofness, it can’t be far off 100%.  A heavier (actually very light though!), tougher fabric called Fortius 1.0 is used on the high wear areas of the arms, shoulders, upper back and lower back. The rest of the jacket is made from a slightly lighter Terratex fabric which is very breathable and quick drying. This gives a comfortable piece of clothing suited to fast moving activities. The only downside of the lighter fabric is that it is limited by its durability and I have managed to put a couple of holes in mine whilst mixed climbing on Chamonix granite.

So all in all the Arc’teryx Gamma SL Hybrid Hoody is a superb piece of softshell clothing which is deal for a wide range of fast moving mountain pursuits from ski touring to mixed climbing to Summer alpine classics. It is best suited for use in Spring, Summer and Autumn as I don’t think it would provide sufficient protection for full on winter conditions, particularly in the UK, (I’d go for a Gamma MX Hoody or Venta MX Hoody instead) but a lot of that would be dictated by weather on the day. I particularly like the hood and harness hemlock feature. Watch out for ice screws and sharp rocks on the lighter body fabric. All in all another great piece of kit.

Price: £170

To find out more and where to buy one, visit the Arc’teryx website. (http://www.arcteryx.com/product.aspx?language=EN&gender=Mens&model=Gamma-SL-Hybrid-Hoody)

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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Patagonia Men’s Torrentshell Stretch Jacket – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on July 20, 2013, 01:00:16 pm
Patagonia Men’s Torrentshell Stretch Jacket – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/07/20/patagonia-mens-torrentshell-stretch-jacket-climbing-gear-review/)
20 July 2013, 7:45 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/logo.jpg?w=640&h=128) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/logo.jpg)(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/84795_175.jpg?w=640&h=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/84795_175.jpg) On a quest for the perfect hardshell, Kev tests Patagonia’s Torrentshell Stretch Jacket. Read the verdict… Performance: ****

Quality:*****

Style:****

Patagonia say:

“The Torrentshell Stretch Jacket is a waterproof/breathable, fully featured H2No Performance Standard shell. This 2.5-layer rain jacket with nylon ripstop fabric offers generous stretch through the arms and shoulders for mobility and protection in seriously wet weather.”

The Torrentshell Stretch Jacket (http://www.patagonia.com/eu/enGB/product/mens-torrentshell-stretch-jacket?p=84795-1-514) is part of Patagonia’s Alpine Climbing range. I try to avoid wearing a hardshell jacket unless I really have to and when I do, I generally opt for something light and minimalist so I can barely tell I’m wearing one at all! When I was given the opportunity to test the Torrentshell Stretch  Jacket from Patagonia I was quite excited as it is a sub 400g technical waterproof and I felt it would appeal to all aspects of mountain activity.

So, how was it in practice? Well, Ive used the jacket for a few months now and have taken it on everything from wet walks in the Lake District to ski tours in the alps, ice and mixed climbs and even running. Starting with the cut and fit, I immediately noticed that was a well designed jacket. The sleeves are articulated and the combination of gussetted underarms and the stretch panels on the outer arms and shoulders help to aid movement when climbing. There was no evidence of the jacket riding up when I put my hands above my head and the velcro closure cuff worked well both underneath and over the top of gloves. The tab were also easy to operate and adjust whilst wearing gloves.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/p1060895.jpg?w=640&h=896) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/p1060895.jpg)The Patagonia Torrentshell Stretch Jacket is a versatile hardshell, I found the cut of the body and arms to offer great freedom of movement for climbing. The only negative was that the hood didn’t really work with a helmet. The length of the jacket is ideal for climbing, being around about hip length. It sits comfortably under a harness and adjusts easily via an elasticated drawcord with glove friendly zippers. The cut of the body is probably best described as athletic, and my size small test garment fitted me well, accommodating a base layer and mid layer underneath with flapping around or being baggy. Overall I was generally very impressed with the cut of the Torrentshell Stretch Jacket , and it was definitely heading into the ‘couldn’t really tell it was there’ category.

The only thing that let the jacket down for me was the hood. Patagonia describe it as: ‘Helmet-compatible, 2-way-adjustable hood with laminated visor rolls down and stows.’ However I was disappointed to find it small, tight and restrictive when I tried to put it up whilst wearing my climbing helmet. It felt like it was compressing my neck and obscuring my view. The hood needs more volume and the peak needs to come further forward for this jacket to achieve a 5 star rating. Without a helmet the hood worked fine and the adjusters were simple to use, even with gloved hands.

Patagonia use their proprietary H2No® Performance Standard shell: 2.5-layer, 2.4-oz 40-denier 100% nylon ripstop with a waterproof/breathable barrier and a Deluge® DWR (durable water repellent) finish on the main body of the jacket and the stretch panels on the shoulders arms and back utilise a 2.5-layer, 4-oz 40-denier 100% nylon with mechanical stretch, a waterproof/breathable barrier and again, a Deluge DWR finish. I like the H2No fabric, it is quite light and seems plenty breathable enough, easily comparable with other brands out there. There is no mesh inner though and some people may dislike the crinkly, rustling nature of the non-stretch fabric, but personally I did not find this to be an issue. The DWR finish seems very durable and there are still no signs of the garment wetting ot, not even in the high wear areas such as the elbows and shoulders.

The jacket features a one way watertight, coated center-front zipper with internal storm flap. This seems to do a great job of keeping the elements at bay, is smooth and easy to use and works again, whilst wearing gloves.

The pocket configuration on the Torrentshell Strech Jacket provides 2 handwarmer pockets and one chest pocket. These all close with watertight zippers featuring glove friendly tabs. Personally, for an out and out climbing shell, I find the handwarmer pockets a little superfluous to requirements and would be happy enough with just one chest pocket. The 2 handwarmer pockets don’t get in the way though, although  may do if they are full and you are wearing a climbing harness.

Other features of nore are the brushed fleece area on the collar and chinguard for added comfort, both nice touches. One of the handwarmer pockets turns into a stuff pocket with clip loop, but I found it quite hard to get the jacket in and do the zip up, so this wasn’t a feature I used a lot.

Conclusion:

A great all round hill jacket, light and well made, it has a well cut body and I particularly like the stretch fabric. It is however let down by a poor hood which I didn’t feel worked very well whilst wearing a helmet. It was just too small. Perfect without a helmet though. Not quite the best choice for out and out climbing, maybe try the M10 jacket instead, but a good all round rain coat.



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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Aurora Women’s Ziplock Harness by Wild Country – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on July 29, 2013, 01:00:12 pm
Aurora Women’s Ziplock Harness by Wild Country – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/07/29/aurora-womens-ziplock-harness-by-wild-country-climbing-gear-review/)
29 July 2013, 10:09 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/wc-2013-logo-for-white-back.png?w=300&h=80) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/wc-2013-logo-for-white-back.png) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/aurora_women_s_adj_2013.jpg?w=384&h=288) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/aurora_women_s_adj_2013.jpg)  Kasia Baldwin heads to the sunny Kalymnos sport climbs and the mountain crags of North Wales to put the new Wild Country Aurora Women’s Ziplock Harness. Read her verdict… Performance: ****

Quality:****

Style:***

Wild Country say:

“Lightweight and superbly shaped, this all rounder has a figure hugging, flexible fit for comfort and performance on big days out.”

Due to go on holiday to Kalymnos for the first time, I thought this would be the perfect opportunity to trial and test the Wild Country Aurora Women’s Ziplock harness (http://www.wildcountry.co.uk/products/harnesses/aurora-womens-harness/).  On first impressions, before even trying it on, I was impressed with how light it felt. Testing the small size (it only comes in XS, S and M) it weighs in at 385 grams. I was however slightly disappointed that it came in ‘cool grey’ and not something a bit brighter.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/p1070267.jpg?w=640&h=360) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/p1070267.jpg)The Wild Country Aurora Women’s Ziplock Harness is a nice lightweight harness, perfect for sport climbs like those found in Kalymnos. I’m a size 10/12 and the small fits both hips and thighs. The fact that the leg loops are Ziplock as well helps with this.

The harness itself certainly proved itself to be comfortable with its ‘Batwing’ belt shaping, having tested it sport climbing in Kalymnos and multi-pitch trad climbing in North Wales.

Features:

The harness has one Ziplock fastening on the right-hand side of the waist. This obviously helps reduce the weight and I must have had the right size for me as I never felt the harness and it’s gear loops were lopsided, which can sometimes happen with harnesses that can only be adjusted on one side. I did however definitely need two hands to tighten the harness as the 20mm webbing was quite stiff through the Ziplock.

Once you’ve tightened the harness there are two elasticated loops on the inside of the waist belt at the front for the ‘excess’ waist belt to be stored. This works fine until you weight the harness with some gear and hang around for a bit. After a while the ‘excess’ waist belt slips out and annoyingly hangs down. This didn’t happen all the time but made me question whether I should have got a bigger size so that I might have more excess waist belt to thread through the loops. I didn’t have a medium size so couldn’t compare. (Ed- Wild Country stated that they think Kasia would have been better with a Medium harness, this would have solved the issue she was having).

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/p1070208.jpg?w=640&h=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/p1070208.jpg)The Wild Country Aurora Women’s Ziplock Harness is well equipped to carry lots of quickdraws. The only negative we found with this harness was that the excess waist band tended to pop out and hang down. Looking at the moulded gear loops it was great to have five for once on a women’s harness, something I’ve never had on previous harnesses. Whilst I didn’t really need the fifth gear loop at the back whilst sport climbing it came in handy on the North Wales multi-pitch trad climbs, at least to store prusik loops, sling and belay plate. The harness also sports a haul loop at the back.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/p1070432.jpg?w=576&h=1024) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/p1070432.jpg)The Wild Country Aurora Women’s Ziplock Harness has 5 gear loops. well placed to handle a lrage rack of trad gear. Seen here used on the North Wales classic E1, Cemetery Gates. Another feature I also loved when caught short is the releasable leg loop fastening on the waist belt. This meant when I had to answer the call of nature I didn’t have to keep taking my harness off or try and overstretch the elasticated leg loop straps. It made things simpler, though re-attaching them can be a bit fiddly to begin with.

With regards to the leg loops, one thing that differed from my last harness was the fact that the webbing wasn’t sewn to all of the leg loop padding – about an inch of the padding is not attached on either side. Whilst this didn’t affect the performance of the harness, it felt a little unfinished, like the end of the waist belt that didn’t always sit snugly within the loops provided to keep it in place.

Conclusion:

Overall the Wild Country Aurora Women’s Ziplock (http://www.wildcountry.co.uk/products/harnesses/aurora-womens-harness/) is a nice harness with some good features. Plus points for me are its comfort, provision of five gear loops and releasable leg loop straps. The only real negative is the end of the waist belt not staying in place and it would be nice to see a brighter colour.



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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Gear News- the new 2013 alpine clothing range from Black Diamond.
Post by: comPiler on July 30, 2013, 01:00:13 pm
Gear News- the new 2013 alpine clothing range from Black Diamond. (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/07/30/gear-news-the-new-2013-alpine-clothing-range-from-black-diamond/)
30 July 2013, 9:39 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/blackdiamond_standrd_neg.jpg?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/blackdiamond_standrd_neg.jpg)

CGR takes a preview at the specialized Alpine Range of clothing from the legendary US company Black Diamond We first noticed that Black Diamond (http://eu.blackdiamondequipment.com/en/home) had moved on from just providing t-shirts as clothing during 2012 when they introduced a dedicated rock climbing trousers, shorts, hoodies and jackets. That trend continues with the introduction of specialised alpine clothing, CGR takes a preview at what’s on offer:

DAWN PATROL – SCHOELLER® COLLECTION
Dawn Patrol—our Schoeller collection—is built around two core technologies delivering a myriad of benefits. Schoeller stretch-woven fabric is highly durable and optimally breathable. Great stretch and recovery allow for a slim, efficient fit without restriction. NanoSphere® Technology is the industry’s best-performing and longest-lasting solution for repelling water, dirt, and oil. NanoSphere keeps you dry and comfortable in the field and your product clean and like new season after season.
Dawn Patrol™ Hybrid Shell In situations where demanding terrain and wide-ranging weather predominate, movement matters. Our Dawn Patrol Hybrid Shell delivers a superior combination of active and protective benefits without weight, restriction, or compromise.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/bd_dawn_patrol_hybrid.jpg?w=201&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/bd_dawn_patrol_hybrid.jpg)

Fabric: Schoeller® StretchWoven nylon (190 g/m2, 95% nylon,5% elastane) with NanoSphere® Technology

Dawn Patrol™ Hybrid Bib We recommend the Dawn Patrol Hybrid Bib for anyone whose demands require both full coverage and full features. The addition of stretch panels gives these bibs the freedom of a regular pant with the improved protection of a shell in mixed conditions.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/bd-dawn_patrol_hybrid_bib.jpg?w=104&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/bd-dawn_patrol_hybrid_bib.jpg)

Fabric: Schoeller® StretchWoven nylon (190 g/m2, 95% nylon, 5% elastane) with a body-mapped three-layer waterproof laminate (143 g/m2, 71% nylon, 4% elastane, polyurethane laminate with tricot backer) with NanoSphere® Technology.

Dawn Patrol™ LT Shell We often require a softshell of stealthy performance and proportions. The Dawn Patrol LT Shell is a study in simplicity and minimalism—without compromise. Its clean, streamlined silhouette carries all the features you need and nothing you don’t.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/bd_dawn_patrol_lt_shell.jpg?w=200&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/bd_dawn_patrol_lt_shell.jpg)

Fabric: Schoeller® StretchWoven nylon (190 g/m2, 95% nylon, 5% elastane) with NanoSphere® Technology.

Dawn Patrol™ Touring Pant Traverse great distances in variable conditions with sizable elevation changes at speed, while staying warm and dry: this is the new Dawn Patrol Touring Pant.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/bd-dawn_patrol_approach_pants.jpg?w=153&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/bd-dawn_patrol_approach_pants.jpg)

Fabric: Schoeller® StretchWoven nylon (260 g/m2, 91% nylon, 9% elastane) with brushed back and NanoSphere® Technology.

ACCESS SERIES – PRIMALOFT® COLLECTION
Access Series gives you the ability to wear an insulator and move. Core warmth is delivered by PrimaLoft One® insulation technology—hybridized with Schoeller® stretch panels that are treated with NanoSphere® Technology.
Access Hybrid Hoody The Access Hybrid Hoody’s mixed approach to materials incorporates the durability of ripstop and the agility of stretch panels. It insulates on ice and on rock and is built for movement and warmth.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/bd-access_hoody.jpg?w=204&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/bd-access_hoody.jpg)

Fabric: Nylon shell (20D 40 g/m2 Pertex® nylon ripstop with DWR) with PrimaLoft® insulation (60 g/m2 PrimaLoft One®) and Schoeller® StretchWoven nylon side panels with NanoSphere® Technology (260 g/m2, 91% nylon, 9%

CO-EFFICIENT SERIES – POWERDRY® COLLECTION
CoEfficient Series enhanced breathability in a low-profile form. Our most efficient midlayer— another textile development unique to Black Diamond, this fabric was optimized for warmth, breathability, and dry time. Fine-tuned to our specifications, this High Efficiency® Power Dry® fabric has enhanced durability and is the ideal lightweight technical fleece. Perfect for layering under our shell collection.
CoEfficient Hoody With this one we addressed three critical needs—warmth, breathability, and fast dry times. The CoEfficient Hoody delivers it all with great stretch, maneuverability, and durability as well.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/bd-coefficient_hoody.jpg?w=207&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/bd-coefficient_hoody.jpg)

Fabric: Polartec® Power Dry® High Efficiency® fleece (200 g/m2, 88% polyester, 12% elastane).

We are currently awaiting test samples but in the meantime you can check out stockists from the Black Diamond Website (http://eu.blackdiamondequipment.com/en/retailers-and-dealers).

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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Salewa Miage 35 Backpack – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on August 08, 2013, 07:00:16 pm
Salewa Miage 35 Backpack – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/08/08/salewa-miage-35-backpack-climbing-gear-review/)
8 August 2013, 12:24 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/salewa-logo-resized.png?w=384&h=275) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/salewa-logo-resized.png)(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/salewa-miage1.jpg?w=359&h=512) James Parkinson heads out into the hills to see if the Miage 35 pack from Salewa, really is as versatile as it sounds?

Performance ****

Style****

Value for Money****

Billed by Salewa as a “classic backpack for alpine needs” the Miage 35 is designed for mountaineering, ski-mountaineering and via ferrata.
First things first – the Salewa Miage 35 (http://www.salewa.com/product/bp+alpine+pro-alpine/miage-35-ii-bp) is an exceptionally comfortable sack to carry. The Contact Fit system uses big foam pads against the back which move with the wearer and enables good freedom of movement for climbing of scrambling. I climbed up to HVS wearing the Salewa Miage 35 (http://www.salewa.com/product/bp+alpine+pro-alpine/miage-35-ii-bp) and didn’t have any trouble.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/img_2752.jpg?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/img_2752.jpg)James testing how the pack carries whilst climbing. Botterill’s Slab, Scafell Crag. The removable hip belt is very well designed; it sits nicely on my hips and takes most of the load off the shoulders. Some people may not like a full-on padded belt on a climbing/mountaineering sack but for those long walk-ins carrying a full rack and ropes I found it very useful. The buckle system on the belt is worth mentioning; instead of a large buckle front and centre, a smaller buckle attaches on the left hand side and the belt is tightened via pull tabs on each side of the waist – a simple idea that works well. When the climbing harness goes on and the gear is racked, it is very simple to remove the belt (it’s held in place via a slot and a large Velcro patch) and stow it in the body of the pack. A smaller webbing belt is included as a replacement if needed.

On first acquaintance, the shoulder straps may seem a bit thin and I was concerned that they may cut into my shoulders. This turned out not to be the case; the combination of the ergonomic shaping of the straps and the excellent belt meant that I never had sore shoulders.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/img_2753.jpg?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/img_2753.jpg)The Salewa Miage 35 pack is a good all round mountaineering pack and just as happy out cragging in the UK as it is on alpine ski tours. Seen here on the a crag approach in the Lake District. The 35L size makes the Salewa Miage 35 (http://www.salewa.com/product/bp+alpine+pro-alpine/miage-35-ii-bp) ideal for UK trad climbing (I’ve had all my gear in it for a big day on the north face of Scafell and a rope strap under the lid gives you further options) but many of the other features of the sack point to more specific uses. A diagonal ski carry system (as well as side compression straps for a more traditional A frame) along with compartments for an avalanche probe and shovel make this a very functional sack for ski-mountaineering missions or hut-to-hut tours. One slight drawback is that there is only one ice axe holder, further highlighting the specificity of the sack towards classic mountaineering rather than harder winter climbing.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/img_2754.jpg?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/img_2754.jpg)Salewa Miage 35 pack, fully loaded for climbing. The lid has both internal and external pockets for all your bits and an elastic bungee on top. A nice touch to the underside of the lid is an SOS label, giving emergency phone numbers for several countries as well as simple arm signals and Morse-style codes for if the worst should happen.

A couple of other features that are useful are the slot for a hydration tube (and elastic holders on the shoulder strap) and a small pocket on the left of the hip belt and a fabric gear loop on the right. There are also mesh pockets on each side for stashing water bottles or ski skins.

Conclusion

The Salewa Miage 35 (http://www.salewa.com/product/bp+alpine+pro-alpine/miage-35-ii-bp) is a comfortable and versatile sack, very good for UK rock climbing as well as classic mountaineering and ski touring. Maybe not ideal for winter climbing due to only having one tool attachment point but would do the job. Several nice little touches and features.

SRP: £85.00

Stockists (http://www.salewa.com/dealer-search)

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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Millet Absolute TRX 9mm climbing rope- Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on August 15, 2013, 07:00:09 pm
Millet Absolute TRX 9mm climbing rope- Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/08/15/millet-absolute-trx-9mm-climbing-rope-climbing-gear-review/)
15 August 2013, 4:33 pm

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(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/millet-absolute-trx.jpg?w=390&h=416) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/millet-absolute-trx.jpg)

The domination of triple rated ropes continues: CGR puts the Millet Absolute TRX 9mm rope to the test.  Performance****

Durability *****

Value for money #####

Who would ever think that a company that started life manufacturing the first shopping bags with shoulder straps would evolve into a major French tour de force in alpine equipment? Well the more I write these reviews and the more history I delve into the more amazed I am!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/saga-millet-4.jpg?w=640&h=216) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/saga-millet-4.jpg)Millet founders showing off their first backpacks. Many here in the UK might mistake Millet (http://www.millet.fr/en) for the retail outlet Millets – that is a confusion we here at Climbing Gear Reviews are more than happy to clarify. Make no mistake there is no connection whatsoever, the pedigree of Millet equipment is well established. They started making backpacks in the 1930’s and then began supplying French expeditions in the 1950’s. They have a long standing association with the Chamonix Guides Company and on any trip to the Alps you will see how extensive the brand is. You can read more on the history of Millet here.

Now that I’ve dispelled the association with that popular UK retailer, we are happy to announce that we have several Millet products on test here at CGR – the first being the Absolute TRX 9mm rope (http://www.millet.fr/en/products/spring-summer-2013/hardware-ropes/absolute-trx-9-hydrophobic). Kev has recently reviewed another triple rated rope (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/07/13/edelrid-swift-8-9mm-rope-climbing-gear-review/) and waxed lyrical on the versatility. I’m also about to add to that, if you are planning to buy a ‘one size fits all’ rope then these styles of rope are ideal and well worth the investment.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/millet-malham.jpg?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/millet-malham.jpg)The Millet Absolute TRX was perfect for long sport routes – Kev working out on Free and easy in prep for his epic Totally Free ascent. I first came across using a single 9mm rope watching Pete Gommersall on his attempts repointing Urgent Action at Kilnsey. This, of course, was well before triple rated ropes and his redpoints were on a 9mm half rope (we didn’t even have 8 or 8.5mm ropes in t’ good old days). He obviously appreciated the lightness of the system but needless to say the rope didn’t last long before the sheath got trashed.

The model tested was the TRX 9 with a hydrophobic dry treatment, the ropes, the range also comes with an anti-friction coating. The manufacturing technology is Millet Triaxiale. This means that the core is made up of three separate, braided cores. This means that if the rope is cut (say through falling onto a sharp edge) there is some redundancy in the system as you may have one or two fully complete cores still in use. Of course, a dry treated rope is a little heavier but is likely to last longer and indispensable for winter and ice climbing (unless you like dragging up to 15% more weight up your route in water).

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/millet-rope-trad-2.jpg?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/millet-rope-trad-2.jpg)The Absolute TRX proved to be a great all-rounder. As good for trad as it was for sport. Dave @ Clogywn y Grochan So how did the Millet Absolute TRX perform for climbing? Firstly the all-important handling, the rope felt thin for single use – I had to buy a new belay device as my old Gri-Gri wasn’t up to the job. The rope is stiff to handle, this is not in any way a disadvantage; Mammut ropes have always been stiff and the Millet rope is similar in feel. The advantage being they last for ages and take a real trashing. I have used the rope in a variety of situations but mostly for redpointing and working out at Malham this season. The rope has performed brilliantly for this use; the 60m length was perfect for those long left hand routes like Yosemite Wall and Space Race. It felt light and pliable enough for those tricky clips. I’ve taken quite a few falls on the rope and it’s showing absolutely no sign of wear at all, especially in the 3-10m area that takes the real beasting in any rope.

I used it straight out of the bag and it had a few kinks, but these soon came out. It hasn’t suffered too much with kinking since and it’s getting better the more I use it  - even when used with an italian hitch the kinks soon came out.

Another advantage is that the rope has minimal stretch so when you are working routes and want pull into a quickdraw you don’t ‘sag’ back down another 30cm when your belayer has taken you in: all good for harmonious belay relations. This is especially important on very long routes with lots of rope out. The rope worked very well in a Gri Gri 2 and Petzl Reverso 3 with no slippage when holding falls or working routes.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/millet-rope-trad.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/millet-rope-trad.jpg)Easy to use as a double rope system as well as single. The rope came with a dyed middle marker and the ends were sealed with marker tips, these came off however and the rope ends were not as well sealed as I would have liked on a high end product such as this. The ends would benefit from being pressure sealed, this would enhance the quality of the rope, but to be honest this is a minor fault and the only one I can find with this rope. The colour was a fantastic bright green and never failed to attract comments every time it came out the ropebag, I loved looking down at it when high on a route, it cut a striking line down the route. For those who may baulk at the bright green, the rope also comes in a more muted red colour

I have used the rope for trad as a half rope, I’ve used in doubled up on grit routes and it has performed very well in all situations. I haven’t used it for winter climbing yet as it arrived during late spring, but I can see it doing very well for a single rope when ice climbing. I probably wouldn’t use it for hard mixed routes as it’s too heavy to carry in to use as a half rope, I’d take an 8mm or 7.5mm for that. But for ice climbing it would be great, it would work well for abbing using a tag rope (which is what I’ll do).

So the Millet Absolute TRX 9 is a great all round rope that will serve you well in all climbing situations, trad, sport and winter so it’s great value if you are an all-rounder and want just one rope, it’s triple rating makes it safe for any situation you are going to use it for. It’s very durable and easy handling ensures that it will last a long time.

SRP: £###.##

Stockists. (http://stores.millet.fr/)

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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: FIRST ARC’TERYX EUROPEAN STAND-ALONE STORE OPENS IN LONDON – Climbing Gear News
Post by: comPiler on August 23, 2013, 01:00:22 am
FIRST ARC’TERYX EUROPEAN STAND-ALONE STORE OPENS IN LONDON – Climbing Gear News (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/08/22/first-arcteryx-european-stand-alone-store-opens-in-london-climbing-gear-news/)
22 August 2013, 8:57 pm

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FIRST ARC’TERYX EUROPEAN STAND-ALONE STORE OPENS IN LONDON

Vancouver, BC – The first European stand-alone Arc’teryx shop has officially opened its doors in London. This exciting new store, in partnership with Snow & Rock, is located in St Martin’s Lane, Covent Garden – a prestigious pedestrian shopping area linking Long Acre and Seven Dials, whilst also being adjacent to Snow+Rock’s existing Mercer Street store.

Arc’teryx has built a reputation as an innovator in the outdoor industry. Renowned for their impeccable fit, cutting edge fabrics and meticulous attention to detail, Arc’teryx create products that enhance performance in the outdoors. The new 70 m2 store will showcase the essence of the entire Arc’teryx collection, which covers hiking, mountaineering, alpine climbing, wintersports, packs and lifestyle wear. The store will also be the first place to preview many new products, as well as being a home to events with team athletes including renowned British climber James McHaffie and bouldering sensation Mina Leslie-Wujastyk.

The interior of the store features large landscape and nature images shot by Arc’teryx photographers Angela Percival and Brian Goldstone. The pale grey floor, black ceilings and high steel and concrete displays underline the classic, understated high quality look of Arc’teryx products.

Having introduced Arc’teryx to the UK in 2000, and helped grow the Canadian brand to where it is today, it was only natural that Snow+Rock was chosen as their partner to open a store in the UK. The Covent Garden shop is the brand’s first stand-alone European store, and precedes the opening of two new stores in Seattle (Sept 3) and Vancouver (1 October).  Arc’teryx also has a store in Montreal and shop-in-shop partnerships with Globetrotter, Cologne and Transa in Zurich.

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Neil Bradley, Regional Commercial Director EMEA at Arc’teryx commented: “We’re thrilled to continue the rollout of Arc’teryx within the UK. There’s a growing, loyal following for the brand and this partner-store is a new way for us to make more Arc’teryx products available to our consumers whilst also allowing us to give more of a flavour of what the brand stands for. To do this together with one of our retail partners is also very satisfying; we are really dedicated to working together with our customers to build our joint business.”

The shop will open in time for the Autumn/Winter season, showcasing the brand’s latest innovations including its award-winning down technology and the new Gore-Tex Pro which is 22% more breathable, more windproof, waterproof and rugged than the previous product generation.

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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Mammut MTR71 Trail Running Shorts and MTR 201 Men’s Long Sleeved Zip Top – Trail Running Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on August 27, 2013, 07:00:15 pm
Mammut MTR71 Trail Running Shorts and MTR 201 Men’s Long Sleeved Zip Top – Trail Running Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/08/27/mammut-mtr71-trail-running-shorts-and-mtr-201-mens-long-sleeved-zip-top-trail-running-gear-review/)
27 August 2013, 2:52 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/mammut-logo.jpg?w=640&h=532) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/mammut-logo.jpg) Last spring saw Mammut introduce an exciting new trail running range comprising clothing, footwear and accessories.  Using the latest innovative fabrics and designs, Mammut has created a range that they claim, offers unrivaled comfort and performance. CGR have been hitting the hills and trails to test out 2 key products in the range: the MTR71 Trail Running Shorts and the MTR 201 Men’s Long Sleeved Zip Top. So what was the verdict?  

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/2013-07-22-16-07-16-5.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/2013-07-22-16-07-16-5.jpg)Testing out the Mammut MTR 71 shorts and MTR 201 top in the Aiguilles Rouges, Chamonix  MTR71 Trail Running Shorts

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/mtr_71_st_men.jpg?w=640&h=767) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/mtr_71_st_men.jpg)Mammut MTR71 Shorts Performance: *****

Quality: *****

Style:*****

Well, starting with the Mammut MTR71 Trail Running Shorts and the verdict is unanimously positive. I absolutely love them. They’re light, flexible, well designed and great quality. Everything you’d expect from a Swiss company in fact.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/img_27401.jpg?w=640&h=853) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/img_27401.jpg)Testing the Mammut MTR 71 Shorts on the local trails in the Yorkshire Dales. Mammut say the MTR71 Trail Running Shorts are:

“extremely lightweight and highly breathable, preventing the build-up of heat and promoting temperature regulation. The Mammut VENtech fabric has an antibacterial treatment, which helps reduce odour. They also benefit from an athletic fit; great freedom of movement, thanks to the high elastane content in the fabric and reflective logos for visual safety.“

The fit of the shorts is great. I have a 29 inch waist and Size Small works perfectly. They are reasonably close fitting without being tight, but the great cut and flexible fabric (it is slightly stretchy) means that you barely notice that you’re wearing them. The flat waist band is comfortable and doesn’t chafe and the simple drawcord keeps everything secure. The internal brief is comfortable, breathable, quick drying and supportive. The VENtech fabric with antibacterial finish keeps odours at bay even after repeated wearing and washing and the fabric dries quickly. I’ve used these shorts in all weathers and conditions and can safely say that this is the best pair of running shorts I’ve ever used. I really like the small rear zipped pocket which is perfect for keeping keys and energy gels close to hand.

A great piece of kit. Well done Mammut (http://s0.wp.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_smile.gif)

Price: £60

 MTR 201 Men’s Long Sleeved Zip Top

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/mtr_201_ls_zip_men-hi-res.jpg?w=640&h=767) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/mtr_201_ls_zip_men-hi-res.jpg)Mammut MTR 201 Men’s Long Sleeve Zip Top Performance: *****

Quality: *****

Style:*****

Mammut say:

“a medium-weight shirt built for activity, with an athletic fit and seam design, with reflective logos for visual safety. Fast drying material means lasting comfort and the fabric’s antibacterial treatment helps reduce odour. The shirt features structured knit fabric ideal for higher altitudes, a securable front zip for tailored ventilation adjustment and flat-locked seams for extra elasticity and abrasion resistance.“

First of all I’d have to say that labeling this piece as a being purely for trail running, is probably doing it an injustice. Yes, I’ve used it lots for running around the local hills and trails, as well as in the Alps but it’s also perfect for hill walking, rock climbing, trekking and cycling. It is dubbed a 3 season piece and as such it is ideal for running at higher altitudes.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/2013-07-22-16-07-17.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/2013-07-22-16-07-17.jpg)The Mammut MTR 201 Men’s Long Sleeve Zip is perfect for running at higher altitudes. Again it is a superbly designed and crafted piece of clothing where the main benefits come from it’s simplicity. It is another example of a piece of clothing that you could almost forget you were wearing. The close, athletic fit really is that comfortable. The VENtech fabric breathes well, transporting moisture from the skin and keeping you dry and comfortable. The antibacterial treatment keeps odors at bay and the short collared zip neck can be secured at any level to provide bespoke venting. The flatlock seams ensure a chafe free fit.

Other features include reflective logos for visual safety. The fabric is also treated with an Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF) 30+ to help filter out the harmful rays of the sun.

Another fantastic piece of clothing, so good you’ll forget you’re wearing it!

Price: £60



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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Millet Denali Jacket – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on August 30, 2013, 01:00:27 am
Millet Denali Jacket – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/08/29/millet-denali-jacket-climbing-gear-review/)
29 August 2013, 6:02 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/millet-logo.gif?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/millet-logo.gif)(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/millet-denali.jpg?w=281&h=300)

CGR reviewer James Parkinson tests out the summer alpine shell from Millet
Jacket for modern mountaineering: in-action performance, freedom of movement, extreme resistance to adverse weather and abrasion.
Performance – ****

Quality – *****

Style – ****

Relatively unknown in the UK, Millet (pronounced mee-ay and not to be confused with a certain high street camping shop) have been making outdoor clothing and equipment (especially their famous rucksacks) in France since before the Second World War. With input from such legends as Lachenel, Bonatti and Messner, and now providing clothing and gear to the Compagnie des Guides of Chamonix, Millet are a big name in European outdoor equipment. With them expanding their operations on this side of the Channel, CGR got their hands on the softshell Denali Jacket.

Billed as a “jacket for modern mountaineering: in-action performance, freedom of movement and extreme resistance to adverse weather and abrasion”, the Millet Denali  (http://www.millet.fr/en/products/spring-summer-2013/mens-action-jackets/denali-jacket)is built from Millet’s own Element Shield Matrix softshell fabric. I found this to be quite thick and robust and stood up to some thrutchy chimney climbing very well without damage. The Matrix fabric is also very weather resistant – pretty much windproof and light rain actually beaded up on the fabric. Because of this, although primarily a summer jacket, the Denali wouldn’t be a bad choice for year round use – sunny ice cragging or drizzly running could all come within its scope. The fabric is also very stretchy, something I found useful when it came to the fit of the jacket.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/imag0551.jpg?w=169&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/imag0551.jpg)The Millet Denali looked very stylish on. The athletic fit was great for climbing. The Millet Denali (http://www.millet.fr/en/products/spring-summer-2013/mens-action-jackets/denali-jacket) is ergonomically cut and some care may be needed with sizing. I had a medium (my usual size in jackets) and found it to be very close fitting. As it turned out, this wasn’t an issue as the stretch of the fabric allowed for unrestricted movement. I did find however that the body was slightly short and was in danger of being pulled out of my harness when climbing. In contrast, I found the sleeves to be an excellent length; I have reasonably long arms and I never felt like the sleeves were too short. Velcro tabs at the wrists also allow for some adjustability.

I found the high collar of the Denali to be very comfortable, fitting snugly but not tightly. An issue I have had before with hoodless jackets is that the collars just never seem right and struggle to seal out the elements. With this jacket, I really liked the high fit and elastic drawstring of the collar to keep out the breeze.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/imag0552.jpg?w=169&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/imag0552.jpg)Comfortable enough for all day wear. The full-length zip runs smoothly and has an underflap to further block out the wind. Two large pockets cover pretty much the whole of the body of the jacket providing plenty of space for OS maps, guidebooks or chocolate bars. A drawstring at the hem allows you to cinch it in but I never felt the need.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/p1070617.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/p1070617.jpg)Millet Denali Jacket – light, breathable, flexible…perfect for moving quick in the mountains. James tests his on the Cosmiques Arete, Chamonix. Millet have reinforced the shoulders with patches of Schoeller® Keprotec®, a material that incorporates Kevlar to make it very hardwearing and resistant to abrasion. I thought the Matrix fabric used in the rest of the jacket was pretty tough but I don’t suppose some extra burl is a bad thing, especially if you’re planning on doing a lot of load carrying.

Available in blue/black (the version I had), red/black and black/blue, the Millet Denali (http://www.millet.fr/en/products/spring-summer-2013/mens-action-jackets/denali-jacket) is a good looking piece of kit which performs well and is suitable for a wide range of activities across the seasons.

SRP: £120.00

Stockists (http://stores.millet.fr/)

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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Wild County Blaze Harness – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on September 04, 2013, 01:00:16 pm
Wild County Blaze Harness – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/09/04/wild-county-blaze-harness-climbing-gear-review/)
4 September 2013, 9:57 am

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CGR takes a look at the new lightweight Wild Country Blaze harness to see if takes the lobs and epic belay sessions. Performance ****

Style****

Value for money****

Earlier in the season CGR reviewer looked at the new Wild Country Aurora (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/07/29/aurora-womens-ziplock-harness-by-wild-country-climbing-gear-review/), a female specific harness from the UK based company Wild Country. Wild Country have been making harnesses since 1979, they were the first company to introduce bar tacking for extra safety and of course they produced the legendary Littlejohn harness which superseded the very painful Whillans harness from Troll.

Their harness range has come on a long way since then and the current harness range is very versatile, ranging from the all-round Summit harness to the children’s harnesses. To complement the new female Aurora harness reviewed by Kaisa, Wild County also sent the new men’s rock climbing harness The Blaze for test.

The Wild Country Blaze is the new breed of super light harnesses from Wild County. Light, comfortable and easy to fit. The Blaze is marketed as an all-round harness suitable for all rock climbing activities and I would agree. The harness would be fine for Alpine climbing and general winter climbing, but if you do a lot of icefall climbing the lack of ice clipper slots will impair the performance – Wild Country do have specific winter harnesses in the range, notably the Summit.

There is a great video from Wild Country athelete Tom Randall using the Blaze harness:

http://vimeo.com/67802436

The technology is called LST which stands for ‘load spread technology’; this mimics the Arcteryx Warp technology but is much less complex and therefore reduces the price. The LST is then laminated between the outer material and a die cut foam for comfort. This is now a proven weight saving technology and will become ever more standard on harness designs.

I tested a size Medium, I am a size 32” waist and the sizing was fine. The harness has a good range of size adjustment I would say a medium would fit waist sizes from 30” to 36”. The range comes in sizes S, M and L so you will find a harness to suit your size. Sizing is important as you will need to fit the harness so the excess waist tongue fits into both retaining loops, this will stop the issues Kaisa was having with the Aurora and I was having when I first used the harness. I have become a fan of the fully adjustable harness of late as I have found the leg loop adjustability useful for my beefy mountain legs – I no longer have matchstick sport climber legs and feel all the better for it!

I have used the harness all season on plenty of trad and sport climbing and it has performed very well in both these areas. The Blaze is a fully adjustable harness; both the waist belt and the legloops adjust with a Ziplock buckle. This worked very smoothly with the 20mm webbing, it cinched nice and tight and never came loose. It also undid very nicely even after repeated falls in it. The waist belt had two retaining loops for the excess tape and I was able to locate and use these easily. One retaining loop, however was located in the centre of the rear, right hand gear loop and at first it cause a little trouble when I was clipping gear through it. Once I had tucked the webbing tightly under the waist belt it became less of an issue.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/img_0300.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/img_0300.jpg)Plenty of room on the gear loops for carrying kit. The legloops also tightened easily and smoothly and the rise felt just right for my height. This gave a good fit and ensured the waist belt stayed on my waist above the hips. When I teach climbing I spend a lot of time on fitting a harness correctly, having a harness on your hips is very dangerous. Also, a well fitted harness a much more comfortable experience for both climbing and belaying. The ziplock could be undone completely for fitting the legloops with crampons on.  The excess tape was tidied up with a single retaining loop on the leg, this was a little oversized and occasionally the tape dangled down. Again careful sizing would be needed to ensure you had enough tape for it to go through the loop and stay there. The problem could be easily solved with a smaller sized retaining loop. The rear, elasticated, leg loop adjusters could be adjusted using the tiny steel buckles, they were fixed and not suitable for undoing in the field, so if you are taken short on a big route you would have to undo the leg loops completely to complete your toilet.

The waist was very comfortable due to the 5mm medium density foam, I have spent a lot of time belaying this season both prolonged sessions at Malham with Kev on his epic ascent of Totally Free and hanging belays for multi pitch trad and the comfort has been excellent. I haven’t noticed it being too sweaty even in our recent spell of hot weather, the waist belt foam felt breathable without the need for excessive ventilation.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/wc-blaze-goredale.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/wc-blaze-goredale.jpg)Wild Country Blaze harness. Great for trad and sport climbing. The Wild Country Blaze harness comes with four gear loops. These were traditional 10mm tape encased with clear plastic tubing of semi-circular design. A tried and tested gear loops design that has stood the test of time. The front two were angle towards the tie in loop and the rear two were horizontal. They all worked fine, I had a minor issue with gear falling over my thigh when the loop was fully loaded with gear for trad but with a slight racking re-arrangement this was avoided. I was able to locate and replace gear easily, the loops were well bartacked so will last the life of the harness. There was a small loop on the back, large enough to take a karabiner but too small for anything else. This would be fine for clipping your chalkbag into the harness but not for much else. My preference is to carry my emergency kit on this loop (prussic and Ropeman) but most people clip their chalkbag directly into a harness so it’s fine for this purpose. It also removes the very dangerous temptation to belay into this loop, as I have seen done on numerous occasions.

The tie in loops were very burly in construction: triple folded and triple bartacked. It felt very reassuring in, what is the most important part of the harness. They were plenty big enough for two 9mm ropes and really did have a reassuring, burly looking feel to them. I had complete confidence taking fall in it and it performed well for falls as the back was wide and comfortable. The abseil loop was also double looped and triple bartacked, this complemented the rugged construction. It was large enough to take plenty of screwgates and other items on belays.

I have used the Wild Country Blaze harness for all the spring rock climbing season and if you are looking for an all round rock climbing harness you won’t go far wrong. It’s comfortable, light, super adjustable and has a great freedom of movement feel to it. Just remember to get the sizing right and the addition of a bigger loop or even a fifth gear loop would make it even better.

SRP £60.00

Stockists

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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Wild Country Blaze Harness – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on September 05, 2013, 01:01:25 am
Wild Country Blaze Harness – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/09/04/wild-county-blaze-harness-climbing-gear-review/)
4 September 2013, 9:57 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/wildcountry_logo.png?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/wildcountry_logo.png)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/blaze_men_s_adj_2013.jpg?w=384&h=288) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/blaze_men_s_adj_2013.jpg)

CGR takes a look at the new lightweight Wild Country Blaze harness to see if takes the lobs and epic belay sessions. Performance ****

Style****

Value for money****

Earlier in the season CGR reviewer Kasia, looked at the new Wild Country Aurora (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/07/29/aurora-womens-ziplock-harness-by-wild-country-climbing-gear-review/), a female specific harness from the UK based company Wild Country. Wild Country have been making harnesses since 1979, they were the first company to introduce bar tacking for extra safety and of course they produced the legendary Littlejohn harness which superseded the very painful Whillans harness from Troll.

Their harness range has come on a long way since then and the current harness range is very versatile, ranging from the all-round Summit harness to the children’s harnesses. To complement the new female Aurora harness reviewed by Kasia, Wild County also sent the new men’s rock climbing harness, The Blaze for test.

The Wild Country Blaze is the new breed of super light harnesses from Wild County. Light, comfortable and easy to fit. The Blaze is marketed as an all-round harness suitable for all rock climbing activities and I would agree. The harness would be fine for Alpine climbing and general winter climbing, but if you do a lot of icefall climbing the lack of ice clipper slots will impair the performance – Wild Country do have specific winter harnesses in the range, notably the Summit.

There is a great video from Wild Country athlete Tom Randall using the Blaze harness:

http://vimeo.com/67802436

The technology is called LST which stands for ‘load spread technology’; this mimics the Arc’teryx Warp technology but is much less complex and therefore reduces the price. The LST is then laminated between the outer material and a die cut foam for comfort. This is now a proven weight saving technology and will become ever more standard on harness designs.

I tested a size Medium, I am a size 32” waist and the sizing was fine. The harness has a good range of size adjustment I would say a medium would fit waist sizes from 30” to 36”. The range comes in sizes S, M and L so you will find a harness to suit your size. Sizing is important as you will need to fit the harness so the excess waist tongue fits into both retaining loops, this will stop the issues Kasia was having with the Aurora and I was having when I first used the harness. I have become a fan of the fully adjustable harness of late as I have found the leg loop adjustability useful for my beefy mountain legs – I no longer have matchstick sport climber legs and feel all the better for it!

I have used the harness all season on plenty of trad and sport climbing and it has performed very well in both these areas. The Blaze is a fully adjustable harness; both the waist belt and the legloops adjust with a Ziplock buckle. This worked very smoothly with the 20mm webbing, it cinched nice and tight and never came loose. It also undid very nicely even after repeated falls in it. The waist belt had two retaining loops for the excess tape and I was able to locate and use these easily. One retaining loop, however was located in the centre of the rear, right hand gear loop and at first it cause a little trouble when I was clipping gear through it. Once I had tucked the webbing tightly under the waist belt it became less of an issue.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/img_0300.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/img_0300.jpg)Plenty of room on the gear loops for carrying kit. The legloops also tightened easily and smoothly and the rise felt just right for my height. This gave a good fit and ensured the waist belt stayed on my waist above the hips. When I teach climbing I spend a lot of time on fitting a harness correctly, having a harness on your hips is very dangerous. Also, a well fitted harness a much more comfortable experience for both climbing and belaying. The ziplock could be undone completely for fitting the legloops with crampons on.  The excess tape was tidied up with a single retaining loop on the leg, this was a little oversized and occasionally the tape dangled down. Again careful sizing would be needed to ensure you had enough tape for it to go through the loop and stay there. The problem could be easily solved with a smaller sized retaining loop. The rear, elasticated, leg loop adjusters could be adjusted using the tiny steel buckles, they were fixed and not suitable for undoing in the field, so if you are taken short on a big route you would have to undo the leg loops completely to complete your toilet.

The waist was very comfortable due to the 5mm medium density foam, I have spent a lot of time belaying this season both prolonged sessions at Malham with Kev on his epic ascent of Totally Free and hanging belays for multi pitch trad and the comfort has been excellent. I haven’t noticed it being too sweaty even in our recent spell of hot weather, the waist belt foam felt breathable without the need for excessive ventilation.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/wc-blaze-goredale.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/wc-blaze-goredale.jpg)Wild Country Blaze harness. Great for trad and sport climbing. The Wild Country Blaze harness comes with four gear loops. These were traditional 10mm tape encased with clear plastic tubing of semi-circular design. A tried and tested gear loops design that has stood the test of time. The front two were angle towards the tie in loop and the rear two were horizontal. They all worked fine, I had a minor issue with gear falling over my thigh when the loop was fully loaded with gear for trad but with a slight racking re-arrangement this was avoided. I was able to locate and replace gear easily, the loops were well bartacked so will last the life of the harness. There was a small loop on the back, large enough to take a karabiner but too small for anything else. This would be fine for clipping your chalkbag into the harness but not for much else. My preference is to carry my emergency kit on this loop (prussic and Ropeman) but most people clip their chalkbag directly into a harness so it’s fine for this purpose. It also removes the very dangerous temptation to belay into this loop, as I have seen done on numerous occasions.

The tie in loops were very burly in construction: triple folded and triple bartacked. It felt very reassuring in, what is the most important part of the harness. They were plenty big enough for two 9mm ropes and really did have a reassuring, burly looking feel to them. I had complete confidence taking fall in it and it performed well for falls as the back was wide and comfortable. The abseil loop was also double looped and triple bartacked, this complemented the rugged construction. It was large enough to take plenty of screwgates and other items on belays.

I have used the Wild Country Blaze harness for all the spring rock climbing season and if you are looking for an all round rock climbing harness you won’t go far wrong. It’s comfortable, light, super adjustable and has a great freedom of movement feel to it. Just remember to get the sizing right and the addition of a bigger loop or even a fifth gear loop would make it even better.

SRP £60.00

Stockists

(http://feeds.wordpress.com/1.0/comments/climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2924/) (http://feeds.wordpress.com/1.0/gocomments/climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2924/) (http://stats.wordpress.com/b.gif?host=climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com&blog=15956860&post=2924&subd=climbinggearreviewsuk&ref=&feed=1)

Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Blue Ice Warthog 26 Pack – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on September 06, 2013, 01:01:03 am
Blue Ice Warthog 26 Pack – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/09/05/blue-ice-warthog-26-pack-climbing-gear-review/)
5 September 2013, 7:42 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/blueicelogowhitebgrectangular.jpg?w=640&h=134) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/blueicelogowhitebgrectangular.jpg)(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/warthog-26l.jpg?w=640&h=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/warthog-26l.jpg)  Kev puts the tardis-like Warthog 26 pack from Blue Ice, through it’s paces. Performance: ****(and a half)

Quality: *****

Value: *****

Blue Ice say:

“The Warthog 26L is our toughest, most streamlined backpack. Designed by alpine guides and built for extremely intensive use, it features just the accessories you need and nothing more. The helmet holder, rope carrier and top-loading design optimize carrying capacity during the approach. The top lid features a separate pocket to keep your wallet and keys safe when you rummage for an energy bar or sunglasses at the belay. The low-profile hip belt won’t interfere with your harness, and the pack’s compact design ensures maximum freedom of movement when you’re climbing. The Warthog holds up to the harshest abuse and climbs like a champ, making it the ideal pack for light and fast one-day ascents and short technical climbs.”

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/img_3120.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/img_3120.jpg)Blue Ice Warthog 26, a great Alpine pack. Now and again I’m sent a piece of kit to test that I fall in love with. The Warthog 26 pack from Blue Ice, is one of those. I’ve used the Warthog 26 pack for Scottish winter routes, UK cragging and Alpine hits and apart from a couple of minor niggles, I can’t fault it.

So why do I love this pack so much? Well, the main reason is it’s simplicity. It really does just feature the things you need (well almost all of them) and nothing else. And that’s what I want. I find many modern climbing packs too overly featured, heavy and cumbersome. Essentially badly designed with lots of straps and flaps that are superfluous to requirements, add unnecessary weight and could have your eye out in a strong wind! The Warthog 26 has none of this.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/img_2098.jpg?w=640&h=853) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/img_2098.jpg)Blue Ice Warthog 26 – fully loaded for a day on Ben Nevis So what does it have? Well, it has a roomy 26 litre main compartment which despite it’s small size, swallows enough kit for a day in Scotland in winter, UK trad or an Alpine route. The pack is a bit of a tardis and many friends have commented on how they don’t understand how all of the things I carry in it, actually fit in it! I am quite good at packing these days and I do have light compact kit but still, I’ve had no trouble getting a large mixed rack, food, water, spare clothing, crampons, axes, rope and helmet in the Warthog 26. Well, I say in but the axes go on the outside, the rope goes under the lid secured by it;s dedicated fastener and the helmet fits under the mesh holder on top of the lid. The mesh helmet holder is actually one of my favourite features and neatly secures the helmet when you need it but stores discretely in it’s own pouch when not needed. When in use you can store your butties in your helmet to stop them getting squashed too!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/warthog-26l-lid.jpg?w=640&h=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/warthog-26l-lid.jpg)The helmet holder is a great feature! The top lid contains 2 pockets. One is underneath and is great for storing items or valuables that you don’t want to drop whilst rummaging around. These can be left secured and other items like energy bars, topo etc can be stored in the main lid compartment. Both compartments feature secure, high quality, glove friendly zippers. There is also and integrated drinks bladder pocket in the main body of the rucksack, this holds a 2 litre bladder and has a built in hole for the hose to poke out of. I didn’t really use this much as I generally find these bladders end in spillage disasters, however I did find the slot useful for storing flat items such as a map.

As I mentioned earlier, the compact design of the pack meant you could climb freely and unhindered and the removable hip belt and adjustable chest strap with safety whistle helped stabilise the pack when it was full. I tend not to use the waist belt so I removed this quite early on but it was an easy process and some may find it useful to have on there. The back system features simple foam padding and cordura and this was ample for the loads which I carried. The straps were padded enough too.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/p1060731.jpg?w=640&h=360) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/p1060731.jpg)Blue Ice Warthog 26 – perfect when climbing. I really like a pack which doesn’t get in the way when you’re climbing with it on and I reckon that the Warthog 26 is the best I’ve used in this respect. Some of the reasons for this are:

The fabric used on the main body of the Warthog 26 is a mix of 500 and 1000 denier CORDURA®. It is incredibly tough but also light with the whole pack weighing in at just 740g. I’ve used it now, for 6 months and there is very little evidence of wear.

So what are the niggles? Well firstly the ice axe loops don’t work very well with modern hammer and adze-less ice tools. You need to secure them carefully; I added a karabiner which worked fine. I would like to see some tabs so that I could add bungie cord to the front in case I want to take a bivi pad. I also found the buckles  a little stiff to operate whilst wearing big gloves. I suppose the other issue is that some UK climbers might not find it big enough but this really wasn’t an issue for me at all. And if it is for you then there’s always the fantastic looking Warthog 38 pack instead.

So in conclusion, this is my current favourite pack for Alpine and winter climbing. Comfortable when climbing, great quality and brilliantly simple. Awesome!



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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Mammut Footwear: T-Advanced GTX, T-Aenergy GTX and Redburn Pro – Climbing Gear News
Post by: comPiler on September 06, 2013, 01:01:05 am
Mammut Footwear: T-Advanced GTX, T-Aenergy GTX and Redburn Pro – Climbing Gear News (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/09/05/mammut-footwear-t-advanced-gtx-t-aenergy-gtx-and-redburn-pro-climbing-gear-news/)
5 September 2013, 8:44 pm

Get set for autumn with Mammut!  (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/mammut-logo.jpg?w=640&h=532) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/mammut-logo.jpg) As Autumn approaches with the inevitable damper conditions, there’s a need for more substantial footwear, but before you fix your crampons look no further than three robust yet lightweight styles from Mammut: T-Advanced GTX, T-Aenergy GTX and Redburn Pro. (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/t_advanced_gtxc2ae_men.jpg?w=384&h=460) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/t_advanced_gtxc2ae_men.jpg)Mammut T Advanced GTX Men’s Boot  

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/teton_aenergy_gtx_men_spring_basilic_bild1.jpg?w=384&h=460) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/teton_aenergy_gtx_men_spring_basilic_bild1.jpg)Mammut T Aenergy GTX Men’s Boot The Mammut T-Aenergy GTX builds on the highly successful Teton GTX and the T-Advanced is based on the T-Aenergy GTX, so the features are much the same:

T-Advanced GTX: 1247g per pair of mens UK 8.5 and 1059g per pair of womens UK 5.5

SRP:                    T-Aenergy GTX £160                                      T-Advanced GTX £150

 

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/redburn_pro_men.jpg?w=640&h=767) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/redburn_pro_men.jpg)Mammut Redburn Pro Men’s Shoe The Mammut Redburn Pro is the ultimate approach shoe, an urban-styled, go-to shoe for a whole host of activities:

SRP: £100

 

 

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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Millet Peuterey 35+10 Pack – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on September 09, 2013, 01:00:16 pm
Millet Peuterey 35+10 Pack – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/09/09/millet-peuterey-3510-pack-climbing-gear-review/)
9 September 2013, 6:52 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/millet-logo.gif?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/millet-logo.gif) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/milley-peuterey-integrale.jpg?w=390&h=416) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/milley-peuterey-integrale.jpg)  Pete Chadwick tests the Peuterey 35+10 Pack from top French brand Millet. Cragging, Scottish Wineter and Alpinism; it takes it in it’s stride! Performance: ****

Quality: ****

Style: ****

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/p1070716.jpg?w=640&h=427) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/p1070716.jpg)Pete Chadwick testing his Millet Peuterey 35+10 Pack on the Matterhorn’s Lion Ridge. The Millet Peuterey 35+10 (http://www.millet.fr/en/products/fall-winter-2011-2012/hardware-backpacks/peuterey-35-10) is a technical mountaineering backpack. When it first arrived it was clear that it was well constructed with good materials and had many technical features. But to really appreciate design and function one has to test them in the field so I headed to the French Alps for my summer holidays. Meeting up with CGRUK’s Kev Avery in Chamonix I discovered what a great sack the Millet Peuterey 35+10 is.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/img_3217.jpg?w=640&h=853) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/img_3217.jpg)The Millet Peuterey 35+10 Pack is a perfect pack for Alpine missions and can hold everything you need for multi-day trips in the mountains. Here Pete heads up to the Carrel Hut on the Italian side of the Matterhorn. The fit was excellent for my 6’1″ frame and the adjusting system worked well, carrying a heavy load on steep descents proved stable as did the sack barely packed and compressed to minimise bulk. The materials that it is constructed from, Nylon and Cordura, with a double layer on the base mean that it is incredibly robust a welcome change from many modern sacks. Millet uses The Free Flex Frame System which allows the pack to provide rigidity and improve the pack’s load-carrying capacity when you add heavy gear or skis.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/img_3230.jpg?w=640&h=480) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/img_3230.jpg)The Millet Peuterey 35+10 Pack almost at the shoulder before the Carrel hut on the Matterhorn’s Lion Ridge. Some of the other features proved invaluable in the mountains; the larger than normal zipper tabs allow pockets to be opened and closed with cold or gloved hands. There is an excellent crampon compartment with a double layer of nylon and Cordura which keeps the sharp bits out of the way of ropes and hands. The side zip allows an alternative way in to the one large main compartment and worked well. The good sized two lid pockets allowed for enough storage without being so bulky as to prevent looking up when climbing. There are side stirrups and straps for skis and front ice axe loops with stitched in elastic ties that once again proved bombproof.

In use the sack has been the best I’ve ever had. I used it tradding and managed to fit a full rack of gear, two ropes, foot ware, drink and clothing in with room to spare. When sport climbing the wide top allowed all gear and 70m rope in its rope bag to be fitted in thus allowing safe and stable passage on via ferrata approaches to continental sport crags. For alpine cragging and mountaineering the bag proved excellent when carrying heavy loads down the worrying Midi Arête and worked extremely well as a technical sack when both ice climbing and multi pitch rock climbing. There are very few features dangling on the outside of the pack to snag on protrusions and those that are there are essential and designed with this problem in mind. The waist and chest straps provided great stability, comfort and load distribution when walking and climbing.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/img_3130.jpg?w=640&h=853) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/img_3130.jpg)The Millet Peuterey 35+10 Pack is a perfect cragging pack too, effortlessly swallowing all your kit. and rope In conclusion, I would recommend the Pueterey 35+10 to anyone looking for a robust technical mountaineering sack or an excellent cragging sack with excellent build quality and no nonsense practical features.

Price: 35+10 £120, 45+10 £140



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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Blurr Method Pants – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on September 11, 2013, 07:00:15 pm
Blurr Method Pants – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/09/11/blurr-method-pants-climbing-gear-review/)
11 September 2013, 5:23 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/blurr-logo.jpg?w=307&h=182) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/blurr-logo.jpg)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/method_pant_charcoal-1.jpg?w=185&h=408) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/method_pant_charcoal-1.jpg)

Blurr say that the Method Pants are:

“Created with climbing specific attributes in mind, the Method will satiate those that require a lightweight pant that will go un-noticed during the most gymnastic of sequences. This is a versatile and popular summer weight pant.”

Performance: *****

Style:*****

Value For Money:****

When I first received the Blurr Method Pants (http://www.blurrstuff.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=49&products_id=913)I actually thought they were a bit too nice for climbing! They’re a simple, lightweight pant produced from a mixture of organic cotton, nylon and spandex. They look just as happy on the street as they do at a crag and I’ve worn them for both. I really like the simple subtle styling of the Method Pants. And as Blurr say, they are a “versatile” trouser.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/photo.jpg?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/photo.jpg)The Blurr Method pants are great for bouldering. So what are they like for climbing in? Well, the simplicity and subtlety are an ally. The pant that doesn’t look out of place in the pub, having a post-climb beer, doesn’t feel out of place when you’re wearing them to climb either. Why? Firstly the cut is loose, but not too loose; no bad MC Hammer style baggy going on here! The hem sits neatly over trainers and approach shoes and for the size I tested (30 inch waist) the regular length was perfect for climbing once I’d turned them up a couple of times. I usually do this with all climbing trousers just to make sure my feet are not obscured by my trousers. I liked the light, stretchy fabric too. The stretch is only slight but mixed with the cut and the diamond crotch, freedom of movement was superb. They do go unnoticed when you climb, and personally that’s what I want!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/p1010850.jpg?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/p1010850.jpg)The Blurr Method pants are well featured for climbing in. I’ve only worn the Method Pants for about 6 weeks but because I like them so much, I’ve worn them a lot. I’ve bouldered on rough gritstone, cranked out limestone sport projects involving knee bars and rough tufa rock, and took them into the demands of mountain trad. They’re not showing any premature signs of wear and build quality seems excellent. This is good to see as whilst they’re not the most expensive trouser on the market, they’re not the cheapest either.

Other features I like are the subtle internal belt which allows the wearer to adjust the size of the pants but does not interfere with a climbing harness. The pockets too, are also well positioned and don’t get in the way when wearing a harness. I particularly like the internal zipper pocket for keeping valuable safe and stopping them falling out.

The Method Pants are available in 3 colours: Charcoal, Coffee Liquer and Grease Monkey, and a range of waist sizes from 26 to 36 inches (leg sizes are regular only).

To conclude, I would have to say that the Blurr Method Pants are my current favourite cragging pants. I like the combination of subtle styling and functionality. They are also quick drying, easy to care for and well made. It’s not a trouser I’d use for technical mountain routes where I need a bit more weather protection, but that’s not what they’re designed for. A great all round pant for cragging and post-climb socialising!

SRP: £60.00

For more details visit the Blurr Website. (http://www.blurrstuff.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=49&products_id=913)

Stockists (http://www.blurrstuff.com/page.php?page=R:0)

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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Gear News: The new adidas TERREX autumn / winter 2013 range
Post by: comPiler on September 13, 2013, 07:00:25 pm
Gear News: The new adidas TERREX autumn / winter 2013 range (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/09/13/gear-news-the-new-adidas-terrex-autumn-winter-2013-range/)
13 September 2013, 3:22 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/adidas20logo.gif?w=307&h=226) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/adidas20logo.gif)

CGR looks at the new Autumn/Winter collection from adidas adidas continue to produce mountain specific clothing that is functional and stylish. A trip across to the mainland shows just how popular this brand is in all mountain sports. It’s only a matter of time before the brand expands throughout the UK.  We’ve picked the best items for climbers this autumn and winter.

Terrex Active Shell Jacket (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/adidas_terrexactiveshelljkt_bluebeauty.jpg?w=288&h=392) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/adidas_terrexactiveshelljkt_bluebeauty.jpg)

The Terrex Active Shell Jacket employs revolutionary Gore-Tex® Active Shell fabric to give the wearer maximum breathability and weather protection. Its minimalist design includes essential features, such as an adjustable, helmet-compatible hood and two zippered hand pockets, but employs an elasticised bottom hem in place of traditional tightening cords to reduce bulk and save on weight. Furthermore, thanks to a tailored FORMOTION® fit, the jacket moves with the body and does not bunch up, even during the most dynamic movements.

Details:

3L Gore-Tex® Active Shell

Adjustable, helmet-compatible hood

FORMOTION®

Reflective elements for good visibility

Two zippered ventilation pockets

Sizes: 42 – 62 (Men)

Weight: 360 g (Male, M), Women’s 338 g (size S)

Colours: black, hero ink (Men)

SRP £220 Terrex Advanced Jacket (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/adidas_terrexadvancedjkt_black.jpg?w=288&h=433) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/adidas_terrexadvancedjkt_black.jpg)

For fast-and-light alpine missions where complete protection is a necessity, the Terrex Advanced Jacket offers a combination of cutting-edge fabric technology with an innovative face protection system. An updated 3L Gore-Tex® Pro Shell fabric – now 26% more breathable – and an integrated merino wool-lined face mask keep mountain athletes 100% dry and protected. High-performance VISLON® zippers and special FORMOTION®cut-lines provide best-in-class range of motion and eliminate bunching and riding up.

Details:

3L Gore-Tex® Pro Shell

Integrated merino-wool lined face mask

FORMOTION®

Adjustable, helmet-compatible hood

Reflective elements

Waterproof VISLON® zippers

Two zippered hand pockets

Sizes: 42-62

Weight: 445g (Male)

Colour: black (Men)

SRP: £450 Terrex Cocona 2.5-Layer Jacket (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/adidas_terrexcocona.jpg?w=288&h=409) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/adidas_terrexcocona.jpg)

Lightweight and highly breathable, the Terrex Cocona 2.5-Layer Jacket employs an interior Cocona® print to maximise fabric surface and provide superior moisture management. Two ventilation pockets can be unzipped during high-pulse activities to keep the wearer comfortable and dry. FORMOTION® technology ensures a three-dimensional fit with no bunching or riding up. A fully adjustable, helmet-compatible hood allows for excellent peripheral visibility and comfort.

Details:

2.5-layer waterproof fabric with Cocona® laminate

Ventilation pockets

FORMOTION®

Adjustable, helmet-compatible hood

Two zippered hand pockets

Sizes: 42-62 (Men)

Weight: 425g (Male, M), Women’s 370g (size S)

Colours: blue beauty, black, ray green (Men)

SRP: £185 Terrex IceFeather Jacket (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/adidas_terrexicefeather_bluebeauty.jpg?w=288&h=427) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/adidas_terrexicefeather_bluebeauty.jpg)

With the world’s leading waterproof breathable fabric and a removable snow skirt, the Terrex IceFeather Jacket is the go-to shell for terrain with spindrifts, snowfields and steep ice climbing. Alongside improved-breathability 3L Gore-Tex® Pro Shell fabric, this fully equipped mountain sports jacket features side zippers for ventilation, a helmet-compatible hood and reflective elements. FORMOTION® technology lends the IceFeather an optimised fit and keeps the jacket from bunching or riding up.

Details:

Updated 3L Gore-Tex® Pro Shell

FORMOTION®

Adjustable, helmet-compatible hood

Side ventilation

Two hand warmer pockets, two chest pockets, two inside pocket

Removable snow skirt

Reflective elements

Two-way zipper

Sizes: 42-62 (Men)

Weight: 575g (Male, M), Women’s 520g (size S)

Colours: blue beauty (Men)

SRP: £425 Terrex Ndosphere Jacket (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/adidas_terrexndospherejkt_bluebeauty.jpg?w=288&h=385) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/adidas_terrexndospherejkt_bluebeauty.jpg)

The Terrex Ndosphere Jacket, the highlight of this season’s collection, brings an innovative approach to the problem of providing full freedom of motion without compromising on warmth. With specially designed, fully insulated yet stretchy panels across the back and sides, the Ndosphere never inhibits the wearer’s movements. A partial Cocona® lining gives excellent climate management – no clammy feeling from perspiration.

Details:

PrimaLoft® Synergy 80g/m2 insulation

Partial Cocona® lining

FORMOTION®

Adjustable hood

Two hand pockets, one napoleon pocket

100% polyester

Sizes: 42-62

Weight: 495g (size M), Women’s 430 g (Size S)

Colours: real green, black, blue beauty

SRP: £145 The Terrex Korum Jacket (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/adidas_terrexkorumjkt_highresorange.jpg?w=288&h=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/adidas_terrexkorumjkt_highresorange.jpg)

Constructed with 700+ fill power goose down and a lightweight-yet-durable outer fabric, the Terrex Korum is the ideal layering piece for fast-paced alpine climbs or cold-weather ski tours. Highly packable, it can be stored in an integrated Pack-It-Pocket when not needed. FORMOTION® technology guarantees an active performance fit that will not restrict the wearer’s movement, even when making reachy swings with ice tools or digging a snow shelter. It is available with or without a fitted hood.

Details:

90/10 goose down, 700+ fill power

FORMOTION®

Pack-It-Pocket

Optional: fitted hood

Two zippered hand pockets, one napoleon pocket

Sizes: 42-62

345g (size M); 375g (size M; hooded version), Women’s 340g (size S)

Colours: ray green, black, vivid yellow (without hood); blue beauty,

black, high-res orange (hooded version)

SRP: £175 Terrex PrimaLoft Jacket (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/adidas_terrexprimaloftjkt_vividyellow.jpg?w=288&h=409) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/adidas_terrexprimaloftjkt_vividyellow.jpg)

As winter mountain sports most often revolve around snow or ice, athletes need insulation that performs in all conditions. To build the Terrex PrimaLoft Jacket, the adidas Outdoor product team turned to high-performance PrimaLoft® Sport with an eye towards creating a product that would keep the wearer comfortable, even in damp or wet conditions. Highly compressible, the jacket features two zippered hand pockets and a security chest  pocket, as well as FORMOTION® technology for a dynamic, tailored  fit. It is also available as a vest.

Details:

PrimaLoft® Sport 60g/m2 insulation

Compressible

Two zippered hand pockets, one chest security pocket

FORMOTION®

Sizes: 42-62

Weight: 365g (size M), Women’s 310 (size S)

Colours: vivid yellow, black

SRP: £90 Terrex Skyclimb Insulated Jacket (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/adidas_terrexskyclimbinsjkt_raygreen.jpg?w=288&h=416) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/adidas_terrexskyclimbinsjkt_raygreen.jpg)

The Terrex Skyclimb Insulated Jacket was designed especially for winter sports that are too high output for a traditional insulation piece. The carefully hybridised construction places PrimaLoft® insulation over the core and neck, where it is needed most, and a moisture-wicking, four-way stretch, softshell fabric over areas where perspiration is likely. The result is a mid- or outer layer perfect for strenuous ski touring or winter climbing.

Details:

PrimaLoft® insulation

Body-mapped hybrid construction

Four-way stretch softshell

Thumb loops

FORMOTION®

Sizes: 42-62

Weight: 340g (size M), Women’s 305 g (size S)

Colours: blue beauty, ray green, black

SRP: £95 For stockists go to: http://www.adidas.co.uk/outdoor

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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Haglöfs Skarn Pants – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on September 16, 2013, 01:00:16 pm
Haglöfs Skarn Pants – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/09/16/haglofs-skarn-pants-climbing-gear-review/)
16 September 2013, 8:00 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/haglc3b6fs_logo_basic-white-on-black.jpg?w=194&h=214) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/haglc3b6fs_logo_basic-white-on-black.jpg)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/haglofs-skarnpant.jpg?w=288&h=360) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/haglofs-skarnpant.jpg)

CGR reviewer James Parkinson looks at the very jazzy Haglöfs Skarn Pants on his Alps trip this season.
Extremely functional lightweight, bi-stretch nylon pant with reinforcement for tough environments
Performance – *****

Quality – ****

Style – **** (go for orange!)

“Wow – those trousers are orange!” was one of the more repeatable comments made when I first wore the Haglöfs Skarn (http://www.haglofs.com/en-us/products/clothing/layers/soft-shell/men/skarn_pant_en-us.aspx) pants in public. And yes, they were – very much so. Sold by Haglöfs as Dynamite, this colour way may not be to everyone’s taste but the pants themselves should be.

I took the Skarn pants to the Alps for a week of classic alpinism and they performed admirably. The FlexAble™ softshell fabric provided enough protection for the beau temps conditions we encountered and I would think that the DWR treated fabric would be ideal for the slightly more unsettled conditions of the UK. The stretch of the fabric allowed for unrestricted freedom of movement (despite the relatively close fit – the crotch gusset helps as well) and meant that I was able to stab the lower legs repeatedly with my crampons without actually ripping them. Maybe I should work on my technique! There are reinforced patches of Keprotech® on the insides of the ankles to further protect them.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/haglofs-skarn-1.jpg?w=288&h=384) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/haglofs-skarn-1.jpg)Haglofs Skarn Pants – a great all round Alpine pant. The lower legs have zips up to the knees with internal gussets to allow the pants to be put on or removed more easily. In addition, I found this to be useful when wearing different types of footwear; opened slightly to allow for a B3 boot or zipped up tight for precision in rock shoes.

As well as wearing the Haglöfs Skarn (http://www.haglofs.com/en-us/products/clothing/layers/soft-shell/men/skarn_pant_en-us.aspx) pants for climbing, I wore them for two nights of bivvying on our traverse of the Matterhorn. The waist has a lining of brushed polyester and the seams on the side and inner leg are offset, all of which makes the pants very comfortable. I definitely can’t blame my lack of sleep on them!

The knees are articulated and reinforced with a thicker version of the FlexAble™ fabric (205g/m2 compared with 182g/m2 in the rest of the pants) and this works well. I would maybe have liked to see this reinforcement on the seat as well to add a little more toughness.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/haglofs-skarn-3.jpg?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/haglofs-skarn-3.jpg)Articulated knees and the FlexAble fabric gave great freedom. Two zipped hand warmer pockets are supplemented by a zipped pocket on the seat and one on the right thigh. I found the thigh pocket particularly useful for little items such as lip balm and lift tickets as it is easily accessible while wearing a harness.

A couple more little features that are worth a mention are the integrated belt and a rear hanging loop. I’m not sure when you’d really use the latter but it’s there in case you want to!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/haglofs-skarn-2.jpg?w=384&h=512) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/haglofs-skarn-2.jpg)You too can look a bobby dazzler if you’re brave enough! If the Dynamite colour way isn’t your thing then the Skarn pants are also available in Granite, True Black and Firefly (a rather jazzy yellow!). There is also a women’s Q version in Magnetite (http://www.haglofs.com/en-us/products/clothing/layers/soft-shell/women/skarn_q_pant_en-us.aspx)

So whether you’re heading for some summer alpinism or climbing or walking in the UK year round, the Haglöfs Skarn (http://www.haglofs.com/en-us/products/clothing/layers/soft-shell/men/skarn_pant_en-us.aspx) pants would be a great choice of trousers and they look cool too!

SRP: £130

Stockists (http://www.haglofs.com/en-US/retailers/england/)

Why not receive our latest reviews and gear news via your inbox by following our blog: perfect for all gear freaks! Just sign up via the home page, we never keep a email list (too much hassle – we’re out climbing) and we would never, ever pass your email address on (no, no no that would be very unethical).

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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Blurr Rogue Pants – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on September 20, 2013, 01:00:26 pm
Blurr Rogue Pants – Climbing Gear Review (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/09/20/blurr-rogue-pants-climbing-gear-review/)
20 September 2013, 11:06 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/blurr-logo.jpg?w=307&h=182) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/blurr-logo.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/blurr-rogue-pants-1.jpg?w=209&h=449) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/blurr-rogue-pants-1.jpg)  CGR continues it’s look at the new range of climbing pants from Blurr
Designed to be an alternative to training in tights, the Rogue uses a light Nylon fabric with stretch and clean styling to accomplish the same thing. Articulated legs with a gusseted crotch combine with the stretch to ensure flexibility. Patterned for feats of outdoor athleticism!
Performance *****

Style****

Value ****

Lately CGR Gear Editor Kev tested out the summer Blurr Method pants (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/09/11/blurr-method-pants-climbing-gear-review/), Kev concluded that they had become his favoured cragging pants and I can confirm that he has been wearing them throughout the summer.

I’ve been testing the more rugged Rogue pants (http://www.blurrstuff.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=49&products_id=915) – these are designed for the cooler months as they are made from a more robust material and are thicker than the Blurr Method Pants. I have been using them throughout the summer and into the cooler autumn for a variety of climbing activities but mostly sport climbing and bouldering. I’ve worn them for trad too – it’s just that I’ve been mostly sport climbing this season. They’ve been fine for all but the hottest days – but then I’m wearing shorts anyway.

The fabric is 93% Nylon and 7% Spandex. This gave a very rugged ‘canvas’ type feel to them, they felt definitely more robust than the Method pant and had a great natural feel to them.

I tested a 32” waist, I’ve lost some weight this year so was very pleased to see that there was some room left. I could fine tune the fit with the integral waist cord. This means that there are no belt loops but the pants were very comfortable with a harness on – which is often an issue when having to wear  a belt. The regular length gave an inside leg of 32” and I am a medium build and height so there was a little extra length on the leg. It is worth noting that whole Blurr range come in a regular leg length only.

I could cinch the leg hem together with the internal drawcord. This cinched and tightened with a small toggle  and was fully hidden within the leg, you wouldn’t know it was there from looking at the pants in general. Although I’m not a fan of this type of fastening – as I like to roll the leg up for footwork intensive routes- I never had any issue with the hem getting in the way of my footwork once it was cinched . So you can have the choice as I know some people like to have the hem cinched and it worked very well in this way.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/img_0427.jpg?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/img_0427.jpg)Blurr Rogue pants – great for bouldering. I preferred to roll the legs up. The Blurr Rogue pants (http://www.blurrstuff.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=49&products_id=915) were very stylish to wear casually, I could easily wear these to work or to the pub and only those in the know would realise they were a pair of specialist climbing pants. They had a ‘demin trouser’ type appearance and the straight legs gave them an excellent casual look.  They front pockets were tucked out of the way and the back pockets were integrated and not the sewn patch type. They had neat flaps covering them and a reflective Blurr logo on the pocket. They were plenty big enough for wallets and I thought  the back pockets are very neatly designed and unobtrusive.

The waist did up with an aluminium stud button,th is was a button and not press stud; again in keeping with the demin styling of the pants. The fly was of reasonable length and was OK to access with a harness on. It is a YKK coil zipper and this had a tendency to slip down a little after time, a minor fault really but it’s something to explore.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/img_0414.jpg?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/img_0414.jpg)A superb cut for full freedom of movement. Bouldering in The Gower. There is a zipped thigh pocket on the right leg, it wasn’t big enough for guidebooks but it was big enough for phones. I used it mostly for keeping hold brushes in and it worked great for this as the pocket went to the back of the thigh and not the front – a neat feature designed to not get in the way of climbing.  Again you wouldn’t know it was they unless you looked for it as it was skilfully hidden in the leg seam. The pockets were lined with fine mesh which helped with breathability for those mountain approaches.

The Blurr Rogue (http://www.blurrstuff.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=49&products_id=915) pants have been great to climb in, the relaxed style gave plenty of room for climbing movement and the diamond gusset has meant I can’t blame tight trousers for not completing those high rockovers (I’ll just have to blame my lack of flexibility then).  They look great on and off the crag and they have become a staple wardrobe feature for the autumn. They come in 4 colours (Grease Monkey, Clay, Coffee Liqueur and Charcoal) and six waist sizes (26” to 36”), they are very robust, durable and most importantly are great to climb in.

SRP: £67.00

Stockists (http://www.blurrstuff.com/page.php?page=R:0)

Why not receive our latest reviews and gear news via your inbox by following our blog: perfect for all gear freaks! Just sign up via the home page, we never keep a email list (too much hassle – we’re out climbing) and we would never, ever pass your email address on (no, no no that would be very unethical).

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Source: CGR climbinggearreviews.com (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Five Ten climbing shoes Autumn 13 collection – Climbing Gear News
Post by: comPiler on September 23, 2013, 01:00:16 pm
Five Ten climbing shoes Autumn 13 collection – Climbing Gear News (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/09/23/five-ten-climbing-shoes-autumn-13-collection-climbing-gear-news/)
23 September 2013, 7:14 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/newbox_black-low-res.jpg?w=246&h=277) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/newbox_black-low-res.jpg)

CGR takes a quick look at the new range of climbing shoes from Five Ten – available any time now. Legendary American climbing shoe company Five Ten  (http://fiveten.com/)have been busy lately, just in case you thought they’d dropped off the scene. A new range for the Autumn; a revamped Anasazi together with a new Anasazi Guide shoe and a great looking Guide Tennie approach shoe due out in the Spring of 2014, we’re sure there will be something for everyone. CGR takes a quick look at what’s coming to a climbing shop near you this autumn. We’re definitely looking forward to testing the new Mi6 rubber!

Team VXi (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/5tenteamvxi.png?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/5tenteamvxi.png)

The new STEALTH Mi6 Rubber (http://fiveten.com/products/footwear-detail/14210-team-vxi-neon-charcoal) establishes highest friction available with lowest possible forces, on rough rock or polished surfaces. We’ve paired MI6 with our new Team VXi design providing 360 degrees of friction and giving climbers all options to use their feet. The soft compound clings to the foot like a sock, providing unprecedented sensitivity. Our Active Arch Support System cradles the foot for perfect support and reduces spinning. Comfort is complete with our premium Clarino upper that stretches slightly while maintaining its characteristic s and form pitch after pitch. With only 5.10 ounces per shoe the Team VXi is the lightest-weight climbing shoe available built on our high-performance downturned Dragon last.

SRP: £130.00

CGR: We’re liking the look of that heel cup! Check this video of Carlo Traversi sending Reflecting Pool in Red Rocks to see them in action.

Rogue VCS (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/5ten_roguevcs.png?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/5ten_roguevcs.png)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/5tenroguevcswms.png?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/5tenroguevcswms.png)

Our easy-on – easy-off heel loops seem to be made for indoor climbing and bouldering. And of course it´s nice to have for all climbers as it makes the dress-undress procedure way easier. The closure based on two velcros allows for individual, precise and quick adjustments and ensures the powerful but yet comfortable fit of the Rogue.

CGR: a good looking comfort shoe based on the Anasazi LV last. SRP: £75.00

Rogue Lace-Up (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/5_10roguelace.png?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/5_10roguelace.png)

Of course our easy-on – easy-off heel loop system is not missing with the Rogue Lace-Up either! When it comes to precision and force fit, laces are the ones to go with. The individual fit will convince you, especially when it comes to harder routes or boulders.

SRP: £75.00

CGR: we’re awaiting a pair of Rogues for a full test so watch out for a full review sometime soon!

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Title: Edelrid Meg Jul – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on September 25, 2013, 07:00:27 pm
Edelrid Meg Jul – Climbing Gear Review (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/09/25/edelrid-meg-jul-climbing-gear-review/)
25 September 2013, 4:45 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/edelrid-01-4c-bg-20.jpg?w=640) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/edelrid-01-4c-bg-20.jpg)  (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/mega-jul-slate-2013.jpg?w=230&h=255) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/mega-jul-slate-2013.jpg)

CGR takes a look at the top end belay device from German company Edelrid
 Our most versatile belay and abseil device made of solid stainless steel for durability.
Performance *****

Ease of use ***

Value for money ***

We’ve reviewed several belay devices here at CGR; just like your rope you’ll use one every time you go climbing and just like your rope they take a hammering. Probably more so, as they get scratched, banged (even dropped from heights – I’ve seen one dropped from the top of Idwal Slabs and off The Ben;  always an anxiety inducing episode!) It stands to reason, then, that they have to be durable.

Most belay devices are made from Aluminium, even my old Sticht Plate in the loft is made from aluminium. The reasons for this are weight and heat dissipation (when abseiling and lowering). The Edelrid Mega Jul (http://www.edelrid.de/sports/produkte/hardware/mega-jul.html), however, is made from stainless steel. Now stainless steel seems to making a comeback lately, I have a pair of stainless steel crampons and love them. The Mega Jul is a marvel of German engineering, very thin and elegant in design. At first glance it looks alarmingly thin for a belay device, we’re used to big and chunky. It is very solid in feel and is the green, injection moulded, thumb loop as an extra durable feel to it. This has the feel of a piece of equipment that will outlast you.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/img_0002.jpg?w=512&h=384) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/img_0002.jpg)The Edelrid Mega Jul locked off solidly. The sidewall are thinner than the top and bottom walls – this makes sense as that is where the ropes runs through and you can often see the wear marks on aluminium belay devices. There is the hard plastic thumb loop and the retaining wire loop, which also has a plastic sheath. It is very light at 63g, but not as light as some of the newer aluminium belay devices.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/img_0032.jpg?w=111&h=150) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/img_0032.jpg)The Mega Jul gave a smooth ride in abseils. The Edelrid Mega Jul (http://www.edelrid.de/sports/produkte/hardware/mega-jul.html) is a ‘guide plate’ type of belay device. That is: it can be used for locking off your second with two screwgates. The top ring is well situated and you need to be careful to read the instructions on the side of the Jul in order to get it right. In fact I would say that the Mega Jul is more of an ‘expert’ belay device than one for beginners as it needs to be used in two different positions. The green thumb ring needs to be at the bottom for normal belaying and at the top for using in guide mode.

The device worked well as soon as I got used to it, it took me a couple of minutes to be able to pay the rope out freely. The idea is you pull down on the thumb loop as you are paying out, this gave a nice action and I was able to pay out slack easily. The rope locked into the cut out section, this locked absolutely rock solid and was satisfying to have. It meant that I didn’t have to pull so hard on the ‘dead rope’ to keep the rope tight. A quick tug on the thumb rope released it when the leader was back on the rope.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/img_0003.jpg?w=512&h=384) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/img_0003.jpg)Paying out was easy with the thumb look. (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/img_0031.jpg?w=150&h=112) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/img_0031.jpg)In guide mode, quite handy to pull the underneath rope. In guide plate mode the Mega Jul was turned the other way with the green thumb loop at the top. The advantage of using the plate this way is the you are pulling the rope from the top of the plate and not from underneath as in other plate systems. If the plate locks because the second needs a breather or is getting out some fiddly gear then it can be released easily  but tilting the green thumb loop back. If this proves more difficult a carabiner loop is provided at the bottom, I never felt the need to use this as the thumb loop worked well. For abseiling the Mega Jul needed to be in a different position again with the thumb loop at the top and the retainer loop facing you. This then provided a smooth abseil ride. It’s for the confusing way it works I would not recommend this as your first Guide Plate, you may want to try the Kilo Jul (http://www.edelrid.de/sports/produkte/hardware/kilo-jul.html) instead. But if you are doing a lot of Alpine and other multi pitch climbing or you are a professional guide then the Edelrid Mega Jul  (http://www.edelrid.de/sports/produkte/hardware/mega-jul.html)works very well and will save you a lot of hassle. It does take about one climbing session to get to know how it works but if you use it regularly, it’s a masterpiece of design and engineering.

SRP: £30.00

Stockists (http://www.edelrid.de/index.php?option=com_sobi2&catid=15&Itemid=576)

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Title: Millet Yalla rock shoes – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on October 01, 2013, 04:57:52 pm
Millet Yalla rock shoes – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/10/01/millet-yalla-rock-shoes-climbing-gear-review/)
1 October 2013, 2:21 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/millet-logo.gif?w=150&h=150) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/millet-logo.gif) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/yalla-shoes.jpg?w=281&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/yalla-shoes.jpg)CGR editor Dave Sarkar sends his benchmark project in Millet’s high performance Yalla shoe’s.
 High-performance slipper for sport climbing on cliffs, boulders and indoor: unrivalled feel, precision and adherence
Performance ****

Quality *****

Value ****

2013 is proving to be a much better year for me personally. The family tragedy of 2012 is less painful every day, going part time in my day job and a new focus means I’m climbing a lot more and better. This autumn I’ve been improving my bouldering and sport climbing, with a little bit of trad thrown in to mix it up.

So it was great to have a pair of Millet Yalla (http://www.millet.fr/en/products/spring-summer-2013/hardware-climbing-shoes/yalla) shoes to help me on the journey (or the comeback trail!) and I’ve used them all season for every main project I’ve sent. We’ve been busy testing a variety of Millet products this year and a look at the website (http://www.millet.fr/en/) will reveal just how big the range of equipment on offer is. Millet make a huge range of kit from baselayer underwear to crash pads. The climbing shoe range varies form high performance to comfort and children’s shoes.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/img_0422.jpg?w=111&h=150) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/img_0422.jpg)They looked tiny but the fit turned out to be great. Two shoes same size! Out of the box the Yalla shoes looked very small for the size, I generally ask manufacturers for a size UK7.5. This give me a benchmark for fit, these looked tiny and I was initially apprehensive and thought I might have to send them back for the next size up. However, I was astonished to find I didn’t need plastic bags to get them on and they went on with little effort. They were a tight ‘performance fit’ but I felt they might give so I decided to test this pair. It was the right choice because the shoe has given a little to provide a great fit in the toe area.

The Millet Yalla (http://www.millet.fr/en/products/spring-summer-2013/hardware-climbing-shoes/yalla) model comes in the ‘Expert fit’: an asymmetric and slightly downturned profile that loads the force onto the big toe. This technology is featured in most performance climbing shoes these days, I liked the fact that it wasn’t too radical and my big toe didn’t feel too bunched up. The toe profile would definitely suit a wide foot as it is a little more rounded than some of the more radical toe designs. This toe profile might be an issue for small pockets and I can think of my 7b+ project at Malham – Space Race that this might be an issue with. But for edging and smearing they have been great – and that’s the type of move I’m doing for 98% of my climbing anyway.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/p1030918.jpg?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/p1030918.jpg)Millet Yalla shoes had good friction for Grit. The uppers are made from unlined synthetic ‘faux leather’, it felt soft to the touch and hasn’t developed that nauseating odour than can be common from this type of material. I have worn them through the hottest part of the summer and some sweaty redpoints and they still smell fine. The material felt soft against the skin and gave a good grip when tightened. The shoes have stretched a little, but a precision fit can be obtained throughout the lacing system. The lacing system worked very well and the shoes stayed tight on. Most of the shoe uses the ‘trainer type’ lacing and the inner is lined to improve the durability. The top is finished with more traditional eyelets, this helps gives a tight knot when tightening. I had no problems with the laces coming undone at any time.

The tongue was padded with material that felt similar to neoprene, but thinner and breathable. This added some cushioning to the foot and again helped with the comfort.

There is a full rand in the Millet own 4-Points Grip™ rubber. The rand covered the front toe and some of the heel. The toe rend worked very well for toe hooking, on my recent benchmark project Frankie comes to Kilnsey (F7b+ and a true 3 star Yorkshire experience), there is a very powerful boulder problem start. I rely on my footwork to overcome a shortfall in pure strength and after struggling with a few I found a great toe hook. This was eventually the key to success as I was less tired for the crux sequence. I often find toe hooking painful in performance shoes – but the Millet Yalla (http://www.millet.fr/en/products/spring-summer-2013/hardware-climbing-shoes/yalla) has proved a reliable and comfortable shoe in this aspect. The toe comfort was further enhanced with a lined toe area so there was no annoying stitching digging into my toes.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/yalla-kilnsey.png?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/yalla-kilnsey.png)The toe profile was great for routes such as Frankie… at Kilnsey 7b+ I would have liked to have seen a full heel cup as although the shoe heel hooked well, I felt I needed more rubber for those important ‘heel scum’ type moves where you are not full on hooking but need to place the side of the heel on the rock to help supplement the core stomach muscles maintain position. I know this is getting a little technical, but these are a high performance shoe and I’m trying high performance routes (for me) in them. Interestingly a friend who had an Achilles Heel issue and had to cut up a pair of shoes to fit his heel stated he had no problems with the heel fit of the Millet Yalla’s, you wouldn’t believe the faff he’s had to go through in cutting older shoes to get around this problem. So a testament to the heel comfort from him.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/yalla-hooking.jpg?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/yalla-hooking.jpg)The Millet Yalla heel was OK for hooking and very comfortable. Another feature of Frankie….is the variety of climbing it offers. Powerful, beefy moves with precise footwork sequences and bold runouts make it a perfect sport climb. The Yalla shoes took it all it their stride. The rubber worked really well on the smears, I never fell off with my feet slipping (in fact the rubber performed well on the notorious Kilnsey warm up The Directissima (F6c) – which as footholds that are actually like glass and has seen many a day ruined) and the toe profile performed allowed precision moves to be made with confidence.

The sole has a laser cut pattern on it, Millet call this the Hook Effect™. The idea is that the surface area is slightly expanded and this helps the shoe by supply extra grip on overhanding routes. I do understand the theory behind this as this is a performance area I’ve been trying to work on in training drills. The idea is you use the toe area of the sole to help pull you into the move. I know this sounds counter intuitive as you logically and unconcuiosly push with your toes whilst climbing but this type of move can help with subtle body positions in the same way as heel scums do – it’s very difficult to train.

Anyway, back to the Hook Effect™ patterning on the sole. I feel the jury is still out on whether this is an innovation or gimmick. The patterning may have an advantage on Gritstone and Granite routes, and I’ll report further on this via the comments section so do look at the comments as the Grit season progresses. The patterning does not extend right into the toe area as this would definitely wear out this area quickly. I have had no trouble so far with the rubber performance and the friction has been great.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/img_0424.jpg?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/img_0424.jpg)The laser cut micro grooves – is it a gimmick? I’ll let you know! There is composite stiffener in the sole but they felt soft when bent laterally, they were more stiff longitudinally but the overall feel is one of a shoe that moulds to the shape of your feet.

The fit has been exceptionally comfortable and precise and I’ve been amazed at how comfortable the shoe has been considering they looked so tiny out of the box. They have laced really well, stayed tight, been great for bouldering and helped me send my target route for the season so they get the thumbs up from me. I feel that further improvements to the Millet Yalla (http://www.millet.fr/en/products/spring-summer-2013/hardware-climbing-shoes/yalla) shoes could be made by sorting out the heel cup and maybe narrowing the toe profile a little.

SRP £100

Stockists (http://stores.millet.fr/)

Why not receive our latest reviews and gear news via your inbox by following out blog: perfect for all gear freaks! Just sign up via the home page link in the sidebar. We never keep an email list (too much hassle – we’re out climbing) and we would never, ever pass your email address on to someone else (no, no, no that would be very unethical).


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Source: Climbing Gear Reviews (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: VOLUNTARY RECALL NOTICE – WILD COUNTRY
Post by: comPiler on October 09, 2013, 07:00:10 pm
VOLUNTARY RECALL NOTICE – WILD COUNTRY (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/10/09/voluntary-recall-notice-wild-country/)
9 October 2013, 1:17 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/all-rock-sets-bigger-web-size3.jpg?w=388&h=291) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/all-rock-sets-bigger-web-size3.jpg) VOLUNTARY RECALL NOTICE – WILD COUNTRY CLASSIC ROCKS AND ANODISED ROCKS – Issued 07/10/2013 For the safety of all of our customers Wild Country are issuing an immediate recall of certain batches of Wild Country Classic Rocks and Anodised Rocks.

If you own any Wild Country Classic Rocks and/or Anodised Rocks that were purchased any time from January 2010 onwards Wild Country would advise that you visit our website to check whether your product is from one of the affected batches.

You can go direct to our Rocks Recall page herehttp://bit.ly/GCt0sr  

Martin Atkinson, Managing Director of Wild Country, outlined the reasons for the recall:

 “Following a recent failure in use of a Classic Rock, in which fortunately no injury occurred, we conducted an in depth investigation and an extensive testing programme. Following the testing of over 17,000 Rocks we found some units that did not achieve their rated strength which varies, depending upon the size, from 4kN to 12kN.  In a very small number of cases the failure load was below the units rated strength and in some cases below 7kN;  a peak load that can be realistically achieved during a fall.”

Our first priority is always the safety of our climbing and mountaineering colleagues and customers, therefore we have taken the decision to recall the Rocks with the identified batch codes.

Wild Country apologise for the inconvenience this may cause, and thank you in advance for your cooperation in helping us to recover as many of the affected Rocks as possible.

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Source: Climbing Gear Reviews (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Marmot Nabu Jacket – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on October 10, 2013, 01:00:13 pm
Marmot Nabu Jacket – Climbing Gear Review (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/10/10/marmot-nabu-jacket-climbing-gear-review/)
10 October 2013, 9:41 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/marmot-logo-crisp-version1.png?w=388&h=81) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/marmot-logo-crisp-version1.png) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/80740_2740.jpg?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/80740_2740.jpg) CGR tests out the versatile softshell from Californian climbing company Marmot.
The peak of high performance innovation, the Nabu Jacket, utilizes new Polartec® Neo Shell® fabric to blend stretch, waterproof and breathable qualities together.
Perfomance ****

Style *****

Value *****

From a company that started out life making down clothing Marmot (http://marmot.com/) has come a long way and is an established name on the climbing scene.They were one of the first companies to make garments using Gore-Tex and are one of their oldest customers.  Their products are synonymous with quality and function so we were very pleased to receive the new Marmot Nabu Jacket (http://marmot.com/products/nabu_jacket) at CGR HQ for test.

The Nabu Jacket isn’t made with Gore-Tex, it’s made using Polartec NeoShell (http://www.polartec.com/shelter/polartec-neoshell/) a new fabric that is totally waterproof as well as offering the breathability of a softshell. The feel of the fabric was classic softshell, with a smooth outer face and a laminated, gridded wicking surface inside. It felt nice, soft and flexible to wear. Polartec market the NeoShell as one of the most breathable waterproof materials on the market.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/nabu-walk-in.png?w=388&h=291) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/nabu-walk-in.png)The Marmot Nabu proved a ‘wear all day’ jacket. Very versatile for all mountain sports. The M category of Marmot softshells denote the protection it offers, with M1 offering the highest level of protection and M3 being the lightest. The Nabu jacket is an M1 softshell, so I could expect it to act in the same way as a hardshell in terms of weather protection, it didn’t disappoint.

The seams are mostly taped, the only area I could find with no seam tape was the brim of the hood and the cinch area on the neck. All the other seams in the jacket were fully taped. On all the days I wore the Marmot Nabu Jacket (http://marmot.com/products/nabu_jacket), I never even bothered to take a hardshell as I didn’t need one. The jacket acted as good as a hardshell and was warmer in winter. I used the jacket extensively for 6 out of 9 days on my MIA training this August, some of  that weather was truly hideous and I was dry enough most days. The jacket dried out in good time for the next day and was waterproof again.

The cut was excellent for climbing, it fitted nicely over a midlayer fleece and under a harness. I could use my ice tools very well with no impedance from the arms. The jacket had a minute amount of rise but only on very long reaches. The Nabu Jacket fabric felt robust enough to continually have the ice tools on my shoulder for crossover moves, the jacket performed really well for ice climbing and I loved it. I wore it during a Scottish trip last Easter; we might have been in the Alps to be honest it was that good. I used the jacket on several days with just a baselayer on and felt totally comfortable.  Extra insulation was provided in the microfleece lining in the pocket area which went up and around the chest area.  When the temperature got cold on the belays – I just whipped a belay jacket on and was very toasty.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/marmot-nabu-point-five.jpg?w=388&h=582) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/marmot-nabu-point-five.jpg)The Marmot Nabu was the perfect ice climbing jacket – topping out on Point Five Gully, Ben Nevis Now there very few roadside ice venues in Scotland so the jacket’s breathability was tested on the walk-ins. Now, if I’m honest nothing is totally breathable even your skin as it sweats. OK, maybe a string vest is breathable but hey you’d be very cold as well. So, there is always a compromise between being comfortable in windy and rainy conditions and comfortable when walking uphill with a pack on. I often walk in a very thin baselayer and change at the base of the route, the Nabu Jacket compressed well in the pack when I used this system. Sometimes though, the weather is a little less accommodating and the shell had to be worn. There are no pit zips ( a plus for me as I find them pretty useless most of the time) so the only ventilation comes from the pockets and the front zip. So, I did sweat on the walk ins. The bonus was how quickly I dried out when I reached the route base.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/nabu-approach-2.png?w=388&h=517) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/nabu-approach-2.png)The Nabu jacket was breathable on warm approaches. Heading up to Crowberry Gully – Buachaille Etive Mor Another feature of NeoShell is the stretchy nature, now a stretch fabric that is waterproof isn’t anything new, but the marmot Nabu Jacket is really stretchy which was great for all technical climbing, whether it was rock, ice or mixed. I really felt I could reach up and the jacket moved with me. I never felt inhibited in climbing movement when wearing the jacket.  Although the jacket feels a little more bulky than a regular softshell you should be aware that it is a ‘wear all day’ piece, so is likely to be on rather than in your pack – which is where a hardshell usually lives.

The sleeves worked well with the stretchy fabric and the cuffs opened enough enough to get gloves on underneath and cinched tight enough to have gloves outside them. I really liked the no-frill cuff cinches. Nothing fancy and they worked – quite refreshing that Marmot didn’t see the need to play around in a vital, yet simple part of the jacket. I could operate the cuff cinches with gloves on. I could also operate all the zip tags with gloves on, although in keeping with most jacket manufacturers they could have been more glove friendly.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/img_0096.jpg?w=388&h=291) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/img_0096.jpg)The stretch NeoShell fabric give the Marmot Nabu jacket great freedom of movement for climbing. All exterior zips were of the water resistant YKK Aqua Guard. They did a good job of keeping the rain out and worked well in all conditions. This is important as zips are opened and closed all the time when winter climbing in particular. The Marmot Nabu jacket (http://marmot.com/products/nabu_jacket) has 5 pockets, 3 external – two hand and one chest. I don’t really use hand pockets that much but I do rely on a chest one. It was big enough for a camera, phone or an extra pair of gloves; but not big enough for a map. The  external one had a headphone slot to help feed the wire inside the jacket.

Finally, the all important hood: the hood worked well enough but the neck extension could have been a little higher as it didn’t work perfectly with a helmet on.  The hood fitted over a helmet but it felt just a little too tight and had a tendency to slip back. This is why the jacket has scored 4 stars for performance when it should have scored 5. Without a helmet it worked great, it has a stiffened brim and cinched up nicely around my face to provide protection in driving rain. Further adjustability is provided at the back, which was a little awkward to get at with gloves on. I could fine tune the adjustability and once set it stayed set.

The jacket scores very highly ***** for versatility as you could use it for all your winter climbing, alpine climbing, hiking and general climbing and in conclusion the Marmot Nabu Jacket (http://marmot.com/products/nabu_jacket) is a great jacket for Ice Climbing and general winter mountaineering. It affords as good protection as any hardshell and is perfectly shower,snow and rain proof, much more so than a standard softshell. The fabric probably isn’t robust enough for gnarly winter thrutching, day after day, but has proved fine for UK winter climbing and mountaineering. It is very breathable and a highly versatile climbing jacket. For most UK winter conditions you’ll be fine with a base or midlayer, the Marmot Nabu jacket and a belay jacket.

SRP £260.00

Stockists (http://marmot.com/findastore)

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Title: Haglöfs Autumn/Winter Collection – Gear News
Post by: comPiler on October 14, 2013, 05:21:27 pm
Haglöfs Autumn/Winter Collection – Gear News (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/10/14/haglofs-autumnwinter-collection-gear-news/)
14 October 2013, 4:02 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/haglc3b6fs_logo_basic-black-on-white.jpg?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/haglc3b6fs_logo_basic-black-on-white.jpg) CGR visits Haglöfs UK HQ for a preview of the new clothing collection for the 2013/14 winter season. We’ve been busy recently with most clothing manufacturers to see what’s new for the 2013/14 season. We paid a visit to Haglöfs UK headquarters to find out what’s new and we’ve cut to the chase and chosen what we think is the best selection for winter climbing and mountaineering. One of the bigger changes for the Haglöfs range is the naming of clothing, so climbing and mountaineering specific clothing now comes under the Roc range, this name was already being used for packs and we’ve reviewed both the excellent Roc Hard (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/10/02/hagolfs-roc-hard-climbing-gear-review/) and Roc 35 (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/06/03/haglofs-roc-35-pack-climbing-gear-review/) packs. So the Roc label is the general climbing/mountaineering clothing range, Roc Speed is the lightweight kit and Roc High the premium range. On top of that the Ski specific range is the established Rando. So let’s have a look at what’s new:

Barrier Pro II Hood (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/barrier-pro-ii-hood.png?w=240&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/barrier-pro-ii-hood.png)

A very packable, lightweight wind resistant hooded synthetic insulated jacket.  With the new Quad Fusion+ insulation material made from 100% recycled Polyester, which allows moisture to be drawn away from the body.  The hood has a reinforced peak, and is 3 way adjustable. 2 mid mounted torso pockets, and one chest pocket. Includes a stuff sac.

CGR says: this, fully featured and compressible jacket looked the business for chilly belays in the Northern Corries. We have one on test so look out for a full review, we’ll be looking at how warm that Quad Fusion+ material is and we like the 100% recycled element of it.
SRP: £180 Magi II Down Hood (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/haglofs-magiii-downhood.png?w=240&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/haglofs-magiii-downhood.png)

No compromise mountain down jacket, outstanding warmth to weight ratio, and small packsize. Box wall construction, and synthetic patches on areas where the down may be squashed (forearms, shoulders). 2 zipped hand warmer pockets, full hood – packs into its own pocket.

CGR says: a jacket for those who prefer something warmer. There’s a trend developing for hybrid insulation jackets so keep your eye out for them. Looked awesomely warm and Bruce remarked that it was ‘…bloody amazing on top of a mountain when its -20deg’.
SRP: £325 Triton II Hood (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/haglofs-triton-ii-hood.png?w=240&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/haglofs-triton-ii-hood.png)

3 season mid layer, great mix of polartec power stretch pro, stretch fleece and polartec thermal pro.  Tight hood for perfect under helmet use, brilliant warmth on the chest with the thermal pro. Laser cut vent holes to prevent fogging of goggles. Laminated chest pocket for small items and 2 mid torso hand warmer pockets.

CGR says: a great looking and functional midlayer fleece, this looks like it brings the fleece into the 21st century with laser cutting and body heat mapping. We liked the thumb loops and the head hugging hood which should fit snugly under a helmet. We’ve got one on test and I’m looking forward to testing out the vent holes as it’s bad enough crawling off The Ben in a blizzard let alone crawling off in a foggy blizzard.
SRP: £140 Rando Hybrid Pant (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/haglofs-rando-hybrid-pant.png?w=240&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/haglofs-rando-hybrid-pant.png)

Lightweight & versatile soft shell pant, offering mix of wind resistance and freedom of movement.  A great pant for ski touring, climbing and mountaineering.

Windstopper membrane pants to keep out the wind, and most of the water, 2 zipped hand pockets, 1 zipped rear pocket. Articulated knees, reinforced insteps, laminated internal lower leg gaiter with silicon grip.

CGR says: a good looking versatile winter pant. Suitable for most winter mountain sports from ice climbing to ski touring. It looked very suitable for UK winter conditions and would probably score highly for versality. Let’s just hope they’re not as tight fitting as the Skarn pants!
SRP: £200 Roc Pant (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/haglofs-rocpant.png?w=240&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/haglofs-rocpant.png)

Highly versatile mountain pant made from new Gore-Tex® Pro Shell technology. Durable, 3-layer 40D Gore-Tex® Pro fabric with reinforcements in 70D quality at the knees and seat to protect you from the elements and equipment.

CGR says: a bombroof looking climbing hardshell pant. I liked the extra reinforcements in the seat and knee. Let’s hope the super reinforced crampon patches can stop you ripping into them on those high steps (… or that could just be my shoddy footwork). They felt light and flexible and should be great for climbing or mountaineering in.
SRP: £350

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Title: Patagonia Launch First Technical Pack Range For Spring 2014 – Climbing Gear News
Post by: comPiler on October 18, 2013, 01:00:19 am
Patagonia Launch First Technical Pack Range For Spring 2014 – Climbing Gear News (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/10/17/patagonia-launch-first-technical-pack-range-for-spring-2014-climbing-gear-news/)
17 October 2013, 7:59 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/logo.jpg?w=388&h=77) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/logo.jpg)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/ascensionist-pack-35l.jpg?w=388&h=475) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/ascensionist-pack-35l.jpg)Patagonia Ascensionist Pack 35L THIS SPRING 2014, PATAGONIA OFFERS ITS FIRST LINE OF TECHNICAL LIGHTWEIGHT CLIMBING PACKS FOR FAST AND LIGHT ALPINE ENDEAVORS. IT ALL STARTED WITH OUR CLIMBING AMBASSADORS’ REQUEST. THEY WANTED A LINE OF SUPER CLEAN PACKS STRIPPED OF EVERYTHING BUT THE FEATURES THAT MATTER MOST TO THE BEST ALPINISTS. PATAGONIA’S TECHNICAL TEAM WORKED WITH THEM TO CREATE A COLLECTION OF PACKS THAT FOCUS ON SIMPLE,

FUNCTION-DRIVEN DESIGNS. The design was guided from start to finish by Patagonia’s quest for simplicity, functionality and durability. Our Ascensionist Packs let a climber take everything they need without leaving anything behind. They are lightweight, streamlined and efficient – not overbuilt – just thoughtfully built for their intended use.

Technical details

PRICES

25L: £90 / 35L: £120 / 45L: £140

COLOURS AVAILABLE

Tailored Grey, Eclectic Orange.

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Title: Black Diamond Equipment Partners with Gore for Winter 2014 – Climbing Gear News
Post by: comPiler on October 18, 2013, 07:00:14 pm
Black Diamond Equipment Partners with Gore for Winter 2014 – Climbing Gear News (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/10/18/black-diamond-equipment-partners-with-gore-for-winter-2014-climbing-gear-news/)
18 October 2013, 4:05 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/blackdiamond_standrd_neg.jpg?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/blackdiamond_standrd_neg.jpg)

Black Diamond Equipment®, a global innovator in climbing, skiing and technical mountain sports equipment, and W. L. Gore & Associates (“Gore”), inventor of GORE-TEX ® high performance fabric technologies, announce their partnership for Black Diamond Equipment’s Fall 2014 apparel line.

“We are pleased that Black Diamond Equipment has selected Gore to be the central component of their

new Fall 2014 technical outerwear collection,” states Tom Boyle, strategic marketing at Gore. “Gore’s

scientific and rigorous product development aligns perfectly with Black Diamond’s. It’s exciting to work

with a company that continually aims to bring the most advanced technologies and fabrics to market,

which provide the ultimate in performance and style.”

Black Diamond’s Gore collection will be the cornerstone of the Fall 2014 line with distinct technical

outerwear features, including the debut of a new embedded, concealed technology, Cohæsive, in all

jackets featuring GORE-TEX® fabric. Cohæsive is a patent-pending cord management system that

embeds and bonds 3D hardware components directly into the garment’s fabric. With the Cohaesive

hardware right on the fabric surface, the athlete gains intuitive ease-of-use even with gloves on in

adverse conditions.

“Black Diamond’s athlete-employees live by the company ethos: Use. Design. Engineer. Build. Repeat.

We are dedicated to relentless innovation and integrity, designing and engineering equipment that

pushes limits and challenges conventions for our global community of users,” explains Tim Bantle,

Director of Apparel at Black Diamond Equipment. “Our partnership with Gore manifests this philosophy

and will empower our customers.”

The F14 Black Diamond apparel line for men and women includes collection-defining pieces featuring

Gore technology. The Front Point Shell, Bibs and Pants feature three-layer GORE-TEX® Pro fabric

engineered with added durability to withstand abrasion, while protecting against long-lasting extreme

and variable weather. GORE-TEX® Active products in the minimalist Sharp End series is the ideal

solution for highly aerobic, done-in-a-day alpine activities, even in bad weather. Black Diamond is also

introducing a combination of taped-seam construction in garments featuring both Gore WINDSTOPPER

® Active and WINDSTOPPER ® Soft Shell materials. With their taped seams, the Convergent Down

Hoody and Shell (featuring WINDSTOPPER® Active fabric) and the Induction Shell and Pants (featuring

WINDSTOPPER® Soft Shell fabric) create a new standard in breathability and weather resistance.

With its Fall 2014 apparel line featuring Gore technologies, Black Diamond addresses the needs of

alpinists the same way it has for 25 years with equipment: by designing intuitive, thoughtfully engineered

and beautifully executed products that climbers and skiers can trust.

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Title: DMM Alpha Sport Quickdraw – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on October 23, 2013, 07:00:20 pm
DMM Alpha Sport Quickdraw – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/10/23/dmm-alpha-sport-quickdraw-climbing-gear-review/)
23 October 2013, 5:53 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/dmm-climbing-logo-rgb.jpg?w=300&h=139) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/dmm-climbing-logo-rgb.jpg)  (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/alpha-sport-qds-red.png?w=154&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/alpha-sport-qds-red.png)

CGR takes a quick look at the new Alpha Sport and some other draws from DMM
When we designed the Alpha Clip we were determined to produce the most ‘clip friendly’ biner ever made.
Performance*****

Style*****

Value****

Into the CGR office (well OK my desk at home) came a selection of the latest quickdraws from legendary Welsh company DMM. DMM have been instrumental in UK (and indeed worldwide) in climbing protection innovation and their reputation for lightweight and functional kit is well known.

First off the rack is the new Alpha Sport (http://dmmclimbing.com/products/alpha-clip/) collection, made up of the Alpha Pro and Alpha Clip carabiners coupled with a burly sewn sling. I remember owning a rack of DMM Mamba (http://dmmclimbing.com/products/mamba/) quickdraws in the 1990’s and I loved them (I have mates who still have some on their racks they rated them so highly) and the Mamba is still in the product range. You can see a distinct likeness and evolutionary pattern there.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/a251rd-alpha-pro-red.jpg?w=111&h=150) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/a251rd-alpha-pro-red.jpg)The Alpha Clip – great to use In use I found the Alpha Sport (http://dmmclimbing.com/products/alpha-clip/) quickdraws just brilliant, the carabiners performed in all sport climbing situations from on sighting to redpointing. They came into there won when working routes. The Alpha Pro was big enough to get my hand into when I needed to pull up and the chunky sling was great when my hands were sweaty. Both the Alpha Pro and the Alpha Clip had a ridged spine, the added friction it offered was welcome in the high to reach clips.

The clipping action of the Alpha Clip was superb and it was reassuring when clipping in strenuous positions, it has a nice ergonomic gate action that just worked every time. No sticking or movement of any kind. I bought a rack of the silver and green ones when they came out but wish I had waited for the newer ones to come out as there are some improvements:

The rubber keeper has been re-designed to make it more durable. The silver and green ones have also been updated to the same spec so there is a choice of colours. My personal favourites are the red ones. They now also come with some more bold DMM logos on the sewn sling so you can look like a real pro when looking down at where you’ve come from on your route!

The straight gate has been improved slightly and has narrow grooves. This has helped with stick clipping – but there are still some issues here. I have been using them with a BetaStick and have been having issues here (Kev would say man up dude and don’t use one, but I’m more mortal than him!) but friends with homemade clips sticks haven’t had any issues.

So they are a great sport climbing quickdraw that will serve you well, are robust and look great. The only issue is the weight, at 104g per quickdraw the weight soon stacks up.

SRP: £20.00 (12cm quickdraw)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/img_0006.jpg?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/img_0006.jpg)The DMM Shadow quickdraw. A nice smooth ride for less friction. Still, if weight is an issue you could try the Shadow (http://dmmclimbing.com/products/shadow-bent/) quickdraw, these performed almost as well as the Alpha Sport. They had the same sewn sling and the same ergonomic bent gate for clipping. They just weren’t as big. But if you’re looking for a lighter weight, all round set of quickdraws that would be suitable for all climbing situations then these would fit the bill.

SRP: £17.00 (12cm quickdraw)

At the budget end we tested an Aero (http://dmmclimbing.com/products/aero-bent/) quickdraw too. Again there were no real performance issues, they performed flawlessly. The sewn sling was narrower but the clipping, bent gate was the now familiar ergonomic design. The weight can be further reduced by having Spectre slings and DMM have also pimped up the colour range to help them look more stylish. A great first set of quickdraws that will perform well.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/a226-green-qds.jpg?w=300&h=135) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/a226-green-qds.jpg)The DMM Aero quickdraw. A great first quickdraw for the budget concious. SRP: £15.00 (12cm quickdraw)

Stockists (http://dmmclimbing.com/retailers/)

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Title: Kendal Mountain Festival 2013, 14th to 17th November – Climbing Gear News
Post by: comPiler on November 09, 2013, 12:00:18 pm
Kendal Mountain Festival 2013, 14th to 17th November – Climbing Gear News (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/11/09/kendal-mountain-festival-2013-14th-to-17th-november-climbing-gear-news/)
9 November 2013, 8:05 am

It’s now only one week until the annual Kendal Mountain Festival (http://www.mountainfest.co.uk/). CGR will be there to enjoy a great range of films, speakers and partying. So what’s on offer at this year’s event? (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/kmf-logo-blk-brdr.jpg?w=388&h=574) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/kmf-logo-blk-brdr.jpg)‘Kendal’ is the biggest event of its type in the world and it’s the main social event for  outdoor enthusiasts in the UK. As ever there’ll be hundreds of film screenings including high-profile premieres plus loads of speakers and special guests making this a must-do long weekend in the Lake District.

Kendal Mountain Festival is stepping up a gear this year with the involvement of Channel 4, which is collaborating in the creation of a new film competition for ‘short form’ films.

The KMF Short Film Competition aims to encourage and promote creative outdoor filmmaking. Winning films gain both prize money and significant exposure; Channel 4 has revitalised its short-film TV series The Shooting Gallery, and later this year a special edition will feature Kendal Mountain Festival with nominees and winners gaining the potential opportunity for their films to be broadcast.

 

Kendal’s main film programme is now live and can be viewed here (http://www.mountainfest.co.uk/film), but there will be two big premieres– the Hotaches Productions film Distilled (which, we are reliably informed, involves mountaineer Andy Cave and whisky), and Alastair Lee’s much-anticipated spectacular Antarctica film The Great Last Climb. Which undoubtedly involves whisky too.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/distilled-1.jpg?w=388&h=258) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/distilled-1.jpg)Andy Cave stars in the Hotaches film, Distilled.  

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/last-great-climb_c_alastair_lee_323b6291.jpg?w=388&h=580) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/last-great-climb_c_alastair_lee_323b6291.jpg)The Last Great Climb is the latest offering from film make r Alastair Lee. Speakers at the Festival this year include US alpine hot-shot Kelly Cordes, top British climber James McHaffie  and Everest man-of-the-moment Kenton Cool. Top women climbers are well represented with Shauna Coxsey, Lucy Creamer, Mina Leslie-Wujastyk and Spanish big-wall soloist Silvia Vidal. It’s not all about climbing with ultra-athlete Jez Bragg, pro kayaker and National Geographic Adventurer Of The Year Erik Boomer, World Cup-winning downhill biker Steve Peat and ace French skier Vivian Bruchez all on the speaker roster. Plus this year there’s a new Underground Session; calling all cavers…

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/kelly_cordes_credit_jeff_johnson.jpg?w=388&h=581) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/kelly_cordes_credit_jeff_johnson.jpg)Kelly Cordes  

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/caff-p33-of-the-premuir-el-cap.jpg?w=388&h=517) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/caff-p33-of-the-premuir-el-cap.jpg)James (Caff) McHaffie (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/lucy-creamer.jpg?w=388&h=259) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/lucy-creamer.jpg)Lucy Creamer Together with the art exhibitions, literature, the RAB Party plus the Boardman Tasker literary prize, it promises to be another unmissable year.

Dates are 14-17 November – news as it happens at mountainfest.co.uk (http://www.mountainfest.co.uk/)

You can purchase tickets for the event here. (http://www.breweryarts.co.uk/events-and-festivals)

 

 

 

 

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Title: The North Face – the Autumn/Winter 2013 Collection
Post by: comPiler on November 11, 2013, 12:00:15 pm
The North Face – the Autumn/Winter 2013 Collection (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/11/11/the-north-face-the-autumnwinter-2013-collection/)
11 November 2013, 10:56 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/tnf-logo.jpg?w=272&h=125) CGR heads to TNF central for a look at the new collection for climbers this season. The North Face continue to impress us here at CGR with their high quality climbing specific clothing and equipment. They continue to invest and innovate in climbing and should be forever in climbers hearts for sponsoring the footpath to The Ben!

This autumn we paid a visit to the UK Headquarters to see the full collection and as always, we’ve cut to the chase and sifted through to highlight the best items for winter climbing.

As ever the premium Summit Series are the mountain items of choice, although we are feature the new Thermoball jacket that we hinted at during the spring. So here are the GCR recommendations for this winter:

Alloy Jacket (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/a0mq_f89_fw13_0.jpg?w=272&h=317) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/a0mq_f89_fw13_0.jpg)

The ultimate body mapped ski soft-shell jacket for backcountry excursions. A hybrid soft shell featuring Thermo3D™ physiologic design provides the optimum blend of protection, breathability and temperature regulation. Waterproof HyVent-Alpha™ on the hood and shoulders with critical taped seams, provides critical protection from the elements. Featuring Apex Universal® across the body for maximum breathability and comfort, and Pertex Equilibrium® fabric under the arms for wicking, air permeability and water resistance.

Weight: 672 g

Sizes: S, M, L, XL

SRP: £280

CGR says – although TNF are promoting this jacket as a Ski mountaineering jacket when I looked at it I thought that would easily crossover as a climbing jacket. The cut looked excellent and the mapping looked about right. It uses TNF’s own Apex Softshell and Hyvent waterproof materials to good effect and the taped seams should ensure it it stays reasonably snow proof. The female specific version had more insulation around the critical areas. A good looking winter jacket.
 Alloy Pants (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/a0mr_d1r_fw13_0.jpg?w=272&h=317) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/a0mr_d1r_fw13_0.jpg)

Pinnacle ski mountaineering pant for tough ascents and rapid descents A hybrid soft shell featuring Thermo3D™ body mapping design to provide the optimum blend of protection, breathability and temperature regulation. Stretchy, durable Apex Universal® fabric through the thighs and lower legs give ample breathability. Pertex Equilibrium® fabric through the gusset for wicking, air permeability and water resistance and Waterproof HyVent-Alpha® on the seat and knees keeps you dry. Weight: 740 g

Sizes: 30, 32, 34, 36, 38

SRP: £250

CGR says: these compliment the Alloy jacket and again would easily crossover to winter climbing. Plenty of the now familiar hybrid features like waterproof knees and seat areas. We particularly liked the low profile waistband for harness comfort and the two ways zips on everything. The jury is out whether they will be too warm for UK winter but we’ll let you know as we have a female pair on test.
Both the jacket and pants won an IPSO Award this season.

Radium High-Loft Jacket (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/a0nq_d1r_fw13_0.jpg?w=272&h=317) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/a0nq_d1r_fw13_0.jpg)

Compressible, warm & breathable: versatile mid-layer jacket in exclusive Polartec® fabric The highest warmth-to-weight ratio of any The North Face® high-loft fleece. Featuring exclusive Polartec® low-density knit fabric to minimize weight and maximize compressibility and breathability. An efficient insulation layer for backcountry stop-and-go activities where weight and space are limited. Combined with Polartec Power Stretch Pro® side panels for an active fit.

Weight: 417 g

Sizes: S, M, L, XL

SRP: £140

CGR says: a nice looking fleece jacket that was light, warm and versatile. It is a ‘furry’ style fleece with Power Stretch panels where needed. A very warm looking mid layer that would be great for any mountain day out. You have to remember the lowly fleece is a very versatile item of clothing, robust and easy to wash and very warm. That’s why they should have a place in any climbers wardrobe!
Catalyst Micro Jacket (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/a0jc_d1r_fw13_01.jpg?w=272&h=317) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/a0jc_d1r_fw13_01.jpg)

Lightweight and compressible jacket with water resistant 800-fill ProDown for ski touring A new take on The North Face® technical classic, featuring deeper baffles and slimmer down chambers to increase warmth and decrease weight. Premium quality down with water-resistant treatment improves drying time for versatility in diverse weather conditions. Flash Dry® panels under the arms improve moisture management and enhance comfort.

Weight: 364 g

Sizes: S, M, L, XL  - centerback: 70 cm

SRP: £200

CGR says – we’ve noticed a new trend in water resistant down products so expect to see more coming. TNF haven’t quite beaten everyone to it but the Catalyst should be more accessible and better priced than the Patagonia Encapsil. This was a great looking all purpose down jacket that would be great out on the hill, belays on warmer winter days and in the pub. The Prodown although not as water resistant as Primaloft it should perform better than a normal down jacket and be shower proof if you’re unlucky to be caught half way up a route. We’re predicting this style of jacket with the Prodown down filling will become a classic summer alpine jacket.
Thermoball Jacket and Hoody (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/tnf-thermoball-hoodie.jpg?w=272&h=317) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/tnf-thermoball-hoodie.jpg)

Warm, lightweight and fast-drying hooded ThermoBall™ jacket for cold and damp Conditions Designed to provide phenomenal warmth, the revolutionary ThermoBall™ replicates the insulation and compressibility of down but also dries rapidly and keeps warm when wet. Inner and outer fabrics are 100% nylon (bluesign® approved) with a durable water repellent finish.

Sizes: S, M, L, XL, XXL – centerback: 71 cm

SRP: £170

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/thermoball-image-copy.png?w=272&h=109) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/thermoball-image-copy.png)Down, Primaloft and Thermoball  

CGR says: the long awaited and much heralded Thermoball jackets. The insulating materials does indeed look and feel like down and if you go to the TNF shop in Leeds (or any other for that matter I just live in Leeds) they have some on display and you can feel for yourself. The jacket was über light, I mean really light and great on. It should be ideal for climbing in and belaying on those chilly autumn days. The jacket is not in the Summit Series so not designed to be a full on mountain jacket, but as a midlayer it would be fine even for winter climbing in. There have been some production issues but they were in the shops over the weekend when I went to look.
Stockists. (http://www.thenorthface.co.uk/)

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Title: The North Face Casimir 32 – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on November 20, 2013, 06:00:10 pm
The North Face Casimir 32  – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/11/20/the-north-face-casimir-32-climbing-gear-review/)
20 November 2013, 5:28 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/tnf-logo-e1382943588102.jpg?w=300&h=137) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/tnf-logo-e1382943588102.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/tnf-casmir-32.jpg?w=254&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/tnf-casmir-32.jpg)

CGR editor Dave Sarkar tests the versatile, mountain sports pack from TNF to see if he can go faster and further. Performance ***

Style****

Value***

The North Face® Men’s Casimir 32 is a light, robust and versatile alpine daypack for go further and faster adventures.
When The North Face Casimir 32  (http://www.thenorthface.co.uk/tnf-uk-en/casimir-32-litre-backpack/p74282.html)arrived I wondered how it was going to be tested as climbing pack. It didn’t fit the classic shape and had too many added features, but I have found it a very useful pack and the features have also proved useful.

The pack is 32 litres in capacity so plenty big enough for a day out in the mountains, the shape and intended use wasn’t for technical rock climbing so I didn’t test it as such. I could fit a full rack, harness, shoes and chalk bag in. I could also fit in an insulating jacket into the stretch front pouch or the large side pockets. The main stumbling block however was carrying a rope as there was no facility for this.

There are two other packs in the Casamir range with flap style lid in which you could carry a rope on the pack top. These are the Casimir 27 and the Casamir 36 and they are top loading packs with standard lids.

So, I decided to test it as a general mountain pack and it has proved useful for fast paced, on the move mountain activities such as scrambling, hiking, running, mountain biking, alpine glacier sports, snow shoeing and skiing; in fact any activity that doesn’t need a large amount of rope to carry.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/the-north-face-casamir-32-scramble.jpg?w=388&h=291) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/the-north-face-casamir-32-scramble.jpg)A good fit made it great for scrambling. The North Face Casimir 32  (http://www.thenorthface.co.uk/tnf-uk-en/casimir-32-litre-backpack/p74282.html)has a clam shell type (TNF call it bucket style) opening at the top: you unzip the body of the pack to access the inside. This keeps the pack streamlined against the body. The back was adjustable using The North Face Optifit system; this made the pack very easy to adjust to my back length. There is a video explaining it in more detail here:

http://youtu.be/moqBSJWiKIg

It is also worth noting that the pack comes in two sizes S/M and M/L, I tested a M/L which was fine for my 1.75m frame. This gave a great fit and I never felt the pack move once I had fitted it specifically for me. The fit was is further enhanced using the very wide hip belt. This had a large mesh, zipped pocket on the left hand side and a weatherproof, zipped pocket on the right hand side. These were easily big enough to fit hats, gloves, phone, GPS and food bars into.

For my preference I found the hip pockets a little too large and they could have streamlined a little, but then that’s the climber in me. I was, however, able to fit a lot of stuff into them that was accessible in the move. The hip belt could be removed, but this wasn’t easy due to its width. The width meant it had a lot of velcro and it was a devil to get off. In fact I only did it once and never bothered again. It was easier to just clip the hip belt around the back of the pack for climbing.

There are five other pockets on the pack, two large side pockets that were great for putting all sorts in. I could easily fit a hardshell in one and my poles in the other. Poles could be secured using one of the ice axe retaining loops. There was a very large front pocket. This was just an open pouch made from a stretchy material that was very useful for putting extra layers in and it meant that I could access jackets without opening the pack. The pocket had a reinforced patch with two slots so that a rear light could be attached for cycling. There was also a pocket that contained a helmet carry cover. This proved useful because if I had to put a helmet into the pack it would take up a lot of room. It worked by pulling out a mesh panel, stretching it over the helmet and clipping it to two loops on the top of the pack. This worked well and kept the helmet secure, it was neatly hidden inside the front pocket.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/the-north-face-casamir-32-hiking.jpg?w=388&h=291) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/the-north-face-casamir-32-hiking.jpg)The North Face Casimir 32 showing the helmet cover. Enjoying some Lakeland Alpen glow Finally there is a large, zipped internal pocket. It is designed to be used when the front of the lid opens. It worked reasonably well but tended to be floppy with heavy items in it.  I generally want an interior pocket to secure items that are important, namely: wallet, car/house keys and phone. These are items that I’m not going to want during the day but definitely spoil it if they got lost. I didn’t want to stash them in the hip belt pocket and found the inside pocket not secure enough. There is also no key clip, the whole inside pocket was an area that I felt needed further work on it.

There is also a large hydration pouch at the back of the inside, this was plenty big enough for any bladder system you will use. The hose came out of the top and could be secured with a velcro loop inside the pack and further secured with elastic retainers on the shoulder straps. I’m personally not a fan of hydration bladders, but plenty of others are and the system worked really well on The North Face Casimir 32 (http://www.thenorthface.co.uk/tnf-uk-en/casimir-32-litre-backpack/p74282.html).

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/the-north-face-casamir-32-good-fit.jpg?w=388&h=291) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/the-north-face-casamir-32-good-fit.jpg)The Casimir 32 had a good fit for all mountain activities. The shoulder straps were very comfortable, soft with plenty of mesh for ventilation. The sternum strap worked well and had a built in whistle for emergencies. It was easy to adjust on the shoulder strap and stayed in place.

The pack also had the ability to carry two ice axes with its loops and elastic retaining clips. There were also six reflective loops situated on each side of the body for threading cord through and carrying crampons. Elasticated cord is supplied with the pack, I found that with care it was easier to put them into the front pouch.

In conclusion, The North Face Casimir 32  (http://www.thenorthface.co.uk/tnf-uk-en/casimir-32-litre-backpack/p74282.html)isn’t a dedicated climbing pack – to be fair it’s not designed as one and there are other packs in the range that would be more suited to technical climbing- but it is a well designed pack that would be great for all other active mountain sports. There are some minor issues with the hip belt fastening and interior pocket but most importantly it is a great carry, it felt secure on my back for tricky descents, hugged me when scrambling and I have found myself using it throughout the season for all my day activities when out on the hill.

SRP £110.00

Stockists. (http://www.thenorthface.co.uk/tnf-uk-en/)

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Title: Wild Country Guide Pro – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on November 25, 2013, 06:00:14 pm
Wild Country Guide Pro – Climbing Gear Review (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/11/25/wild-country-guide-pro-climbing-gear-review/)
25 November 2013, 4:23 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/wc-2013-logo-for-white-back.png?w=388&h=104) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/wc-2013-logo-for-white-back.png) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/pro-guide-gun-1a.jpg?w=272&h=362) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/pro-guide-gun-1a.jpg) CGR test out the top of the range ‘do it all’ belay device from Wild Country Performance *****

Style****

Value****

The Pro Guide belay plate is a superb choice as the ‘do it all’ belay device for belaying, abseiling and guiding on ropes from 7.7-11mm
Most hardwear companies now have a ‘guide plate’ belay device in their collection and they are a very versatile item to have on your rack. As well as belaying and rapping they can be used, for only a little extra cost, to bring your second up and lock them off (maybe whilst they remove that wire you welded in (https://s1.wp.com/wp-includes/images/smilies/icon_wink.gif)  and as an ascender (in an emergency situation). They also allow you to escape the system very easily (what do mean you can’t escape the system!) without the rigmarole of prussicks.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/wc-guide-pro-belay.jpg?w=388&h=291) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/wc-guide-pro-belay.jpg)The WC Guide pro paid rope out smoothly. The Wild Country Pro Guide  (http://www.wildcountry.com/products/belay-devices/new-pro-guide/)fits the bill nicely. It’s well made in aluminium, has a nice chucky feel to it and is light weight. I tried it with a variety of belay situations from double 8.5mm ropes, double 8mm ropes, a single 10mm rope and a single 9.1mm rope. It coped with them all. The stated range is 7.7mm to 11mm ropes. I found 11mm ropes a little too thick to pay out quickly and Kev has a pair of 7.8mm ropes that worked fine, I did find there was a little slippage with the 7.8mm when it was placed under load and used in normal belay mode, but this was to be expected with such thin ropes and it didn’t move at all in guide mode.

The  ridged teeth held the rope light under load and was useful when I needed to lock the Pro Guide off, for instance when used for sport climbing or working a route. They also worked well for abseiling where the Wild Country Pro Guide’s  (http://www.wildcountry.com/products/belay-devices/new-pro-guide/)thick aluminium body dissipated the heat effectively. It did, however, get very hot with multiple rapps. Once the device had cooled enough – usually by the time my climbing partner had got to the ab – it was cool enough to use again. Once again the smooth teeth aided friction and helped lock the device off when I needed stop (to look at or clean a hold).

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/wc-guide-pro-ab.jpg?w=388&h=517) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/wc-guide-pro-ab.jpg)No jumpy rides when abbing with the WC Guide Pro. In guide (sometimes called autoblock) mode the hole for the extra biner (it is important to use a screwgate in this) is at right angles to the plate, this allows the plate to sit neatly against the rock. The release slot was big enough for a carabiner nose to fit in. Interestingly I demonstrated releasing a guide plate under load to a client recently and they were quite shocked at how uncontrollable it could be. You need to be really careful how you release these types of plate and training or practise is essential. The instructions are quite well laid out and you do need to read and practise them before rigging in guide mode.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/wc-guide-pro-guide-mode.jpg?w=388&h=517) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/wc-guide-pro-guide-mode.jpg)The WC Guide Pro was great to use in autoblock mode. The Wild Country Pro Guide  (http://www.wildcountry.com/products/belay-devices/new-pro-guide/)gets five stars for value as it comes with an HMS carabiner. This is for the same price as just a plate on its own with some manufacturers, so great value really. It works very well and the claim that it is ‘do it all’ belay device is true. I’ve used it all season both recreationally and professionally and I often find myself recommending it to everyone, so praise indeed!

SRP £24 or £30 (includes Synergy Lite Screwgate)

Stockists (http://www.wildcountry.com/store-locator/)

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Title: Winter Conditions Report, Ben Nevis 1/12/2013 – Blog
Post by: comPiler on December 03, 2013, 06:00:16 pm
Winter Conditions Report, Ben Nevis 1/12/2013 – Blog (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/12/03/winter-conditions-report-ben-nevis-1122013-blog/)
3 December 2013, 4:31 pm

This weekend saw our first foray North for some Scottish winter climbing action. Rich Allen and I headed optimistically to Ben Nevis on not the best forecast but we did manage to get out in the hills on both Saturday and Sunday. (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/gargoyle-wall.jpg?w=388&h=517) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/gargoyle-wall.jpg)Gargoyle Wall, Ben Nevis  

On Saturday we climbed Gargoyle Wall up on the right of Number 3 Gully Buttress. Conditions were ok but not ideal. Other teams climbed Darth Vader and Babylon and there was plenty of snow in the gullies with both Number 2 and Number 3 seeing ascents and descents. Number 4 is good for descents right now too. Unfortunately things warmed up dramatically on Saturday afternoon and the buttresses were well stripped by the time we returned on Sunday so we had a quick blast up Number 3 to stretch the legs and were treated to a superb temperature inversion and sunshine on the tops!

Looking like a return to winter later this week so fingers crossed.

 

Check these links before you head out:

 


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Title: Article – Belay Jackets, a CGR Buyers’ Guide
Post by: comPiler on December 04, 2013, 06:00:15 pm
Article – Belay Jackets, a CGR Buyers’ Guide (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/12/04/article-belay-jackets-a-cgr-buyers-guide/)
4 December 2013, 2:45 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/img_23541.jpg?w=236&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/img_23541.jpg)The author reaping the benefits of a decent belay parka, about to begin a frigid belay stint in the Cairngorms, Scotland. Belay Jackets and Belay Parkas…what are they and who are they for? What makes a good one and why do we need one? Well picture this… You’re three pitches up and lashed to the crag, the wind is howling, impregnating your clothing with damp snowflakes. From above, constant avalanches of spindrift pummel your back, head and shoulders. You’ve been here a while now, your partner is doing battle with the pitch, approaching the second hour as he battles with the technicalities. You’ve been stood still, but rather than being a frozen lump, you’re warm and still reasonably comfortable. Do you want to know how? Then read on…

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/p1020736.jpg?w=388&h=688) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/p1020736.jpg)Belaying in weather like this requires a decent belay parka! Winter climbing involves extended periods of high exertion where your body gets hot, sweaty and damp. This is usually followed by equally long periods where you are stood around in the cold, belaying. Choosing a clothing system to cope with this can be tricky, you don’t want to wear too much whilst climbing because you will overheat, but then when you stop the moisture from your body will cool you down more quickly too, causing you to be cold and uncomfortable during your belaying stint.

So what is the solution?

I’ve tried out many different systems and configurations of clothing for my winter climbing exploits over the years. I now climb in a few thin layers with a weatherproof shell layer over the top. This generally consists of:

I rarely use a hardshell (fully waterproof shell system) for winter climbing, even in Scotland as I’ve found that modern softshells are generally weatherproof enough to combat the dampness, and the breathability and flexibility more than outweigh the cons here. This of course, is a subjective choice as I feel I can cope with the damp in return for the flexibility that softshells offer. However we have other reviewers that like to climb in hardshells – it’s all a matter of choice.

So, this clothing system is what Mark Twight dubbed, in his book Extreme Alpinism, “the lightweight flexible action suit.” It is warm enough for when I’m stood around for short periods, such as map reading, drink stops etc, but flexible and breathable enough that I don’t overheat when I’m climbing. I prefer to set off on a day feeling slightly cold and letting the movement help to warm me up. However, when stood around for longer periods, for example belaying, my “action suit” just isn’t enough. This is where the belay jacket comes in.

What is a belay jacket?

For the purposes of this article I’m going to refer to 2 different types of belay jacket. The lightweight variety, usually a simple jacket or even pullover, which may or may not have a hood and  featuring 60 to 80 grams of synthetic filling. Good examples of products that fall into this bracket are… and more information about these can be found at the end of this article.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/p1030397.jpg?w=388&h=688) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/p1030397.jpg)The author using a lightweight belay jacket during a brief stop on the North Face of Les Droites, Chamonix, France. The other type is the belay parka, a fully featured and heavier piece which offers more warmth and protection and would usually 100 to 200 grams of synthetic insulation. Again, good examples can be found at the bottom of this article.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/p1060077.jpg?w=388&h=217) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/p1060077.jpg)A full on belay parka is warm and seals out the elements. The lightweight examples are great for those quicker moving missions where stops are shorter and less frequent whereas the parka is better suited to more technical climbs where longer belay stints are required or you may need to bivi.

Regardless of which one you go for you need to make sure it is sized sufficiently to fit over the top of the “lightweight flexible action suit.” Insulation in these jackets can be from down (fine in cold dry climates) and many companies are making hybrid down/synthetic jackets as well as the new hydrophobic down products, but from my experience of climbing in the UK in winter, a modern synthetic equivalent such as Primaloft, is the best choice as it retains its insulating properties, even when wet. Many manufacturers are now beginning to develop and use their own insulating material and these can perform as well as the major branded versions.

So, for the purposes of this article I am going to concentrate on synthetic belay jackets as these are the ones you would want to choose for UK or damp climbing conditions.

Many companies make and market products, which they call belay jackets and like anything, some are better than others. There are however, certain key things to consider when you are looking for a belay jacket.

Is it big enough to go over the top of your other layers?

The jacket should be big enough to go over the top of everything you are wearing. The hood should comfortably fit over the top of your climbing helmet. This is extremely important so I’d go as far as trying the jacket on in the shop, whilst wearing a helmet! A longer cut at the back to insulate your glutes, is also desirable.

Does the jacket have a 2 way zipper?

Whilst not as important in the lightweight versions, a  proper belay parka needs a 2 way zipper and it’s amazing the number of products that are marketed for this purpose, that don’t have one. A good belay parka benefits from a slightly longer cut, particularly at the back and the addition of a 2 way zipper means that the jacket doesn’t have to be rolled up for you to be able to access the belay loop on your climbing harness. You simply unzip the zip a short way from the bottom.

Does it have big handwarmer pockets?

A good belay parka will hopefully have a pair of deep zippered handwarmer pockets. These should be large enough so that you can fit your gloved hands inside.

Other pockets?

I like my belay parka to have a chest pocket with zippered access, so that I can stash sweets, gels and other necessities in there. This pocket may allow you to stash the jacket inside so you can clip it to your harness whilst climbing but I prefer to use a small stuff sack and many proper belay parkas, already come with these provided.

For me, stretchy mesh internal pockets are a must too as these allow you to store and dry spare gloves etc. Another smaller, zippered internal pocket is handy for stashing valuables but not crucial.

In the lightweight jacket, many of these pockets are not necessary. Although I still like mine to feature zippered handwarmer pockets.

Any other features?

Adjustable cuffs, drawcords on hems and hoods and also hood volume adjusters are a must for me on a parka. As is a neck, that zips high enough to cover my mouth. Glove friendly zippers are a pre requisite, whether it be a lightweight jacket or a parka.

Outer and inner fabrics?

Outer and inner fabrics should ideally be windproof and water resistant, but they don’t need to be waterproof. The fabric should be lightweight and ripstop with a full on belay parka not weighing more than 700 or 800 grams.

How warm?

Warmth is very subjective and depends a lot on the wearer, but generally the more filling the jacket or parka has, the warmer it will be. The warmest belay parkas tend to be filled with 200g of synthetic insulation and should keep most people toasty warm on an average winter’s day in Scotland.

What’s on the market this winter?

We’ve picked some of the top belay jackets and parkas on offer this winter…

Lightweight Jackets Patagonia Nano Puff (http://www.patagonia.com/eu/enGB/product/mens-nano-puff-jacket?p=84211-0) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/patagonia-nano-puff-jacket-black-front.jpg?w=388&h=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/patagonia-nano-puff-jacket-black-front.jpg)

Windproof and water-resistant, the full-zip Nano Puff® Jacket is made with warm, incredibly lightweight, highly compressible 60-g PrimaLoft® ONE insulation, and is ideal as an insulating layer or outerwear in cold climates.

Features

CGR says: “A cult piece these days. Simple, reliable and compressible warmth. Read our review here (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/10/07/patagonia-nano-puff-jacket-climbing-gear-review/). We love it!”

Arc’teryx Nuclei Hoody (http://arcteryx.com/product.aspx?language=EN&gender=mens&category=Jackets&model=Nuclei-Hoody) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/33946.jpg?w=388&h=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/33946.jpg)

Lightweight, compact, trim-fitting belay jacket with a high warmth-to-weight ratio.

Features

Construction

Patterning

Hood Configuration

 Zippers & Fly Configuration

Hem Configuration

Pocket Configuration

    CGR says: “Lightweight and compressible, a sexy and simple piece of insulation with all the quality you’d expect from Arc’teryx. Love the internal stuff sack. Jury is still out on the under the helmet hood.”

The North Face Thermoball Jacket (http://www.thenorthface.co.uk/tnf-uk-en/men-s-thermoball-hoodie-jacket/p83016.html) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/tnf-thermoball-hoodie.jpg?w=272&h=317) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/tnf-thermoball-hoodie.jpg)

Warm, lightweight and fast-drying hooded ThermoBall™ jacket for cold and damp conditions.

Designed to provide phenomenal warmth, the revolutionary ThermoBall™ replicates the insulation and compressibility of down but also dries rapidly and keeps warm when wet. Inner and outer fabrics are 100% nylon (bluesign® approved) with a durable water repellent finish.

Sizes: S, M, L, XL, XXL

Fabric: body: 100% recycled nylon 20D, 20D recycled DP taffeta lining.

Insulation: Primaloft® Thermoball™

Features

CGR says: “A nice piece from TNF using innovative insulation. Simple but effective.”

Marmot Isotherm Hoody (http://marmot.com/products/details/isotherm-hoody) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/marmot-isotherm.jpg?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/marmot-isotherm.jpg)

Our award-winning Isotherm Hoody is evolution at its best. Ideal for active insulation – necessary for ice climbing or backcountry skiing – the state-of-the-art Polartec® Alpha® insulation cuts the need for impervious fabric faces. Rather, we used an abrasion-resistant Pertex Quantum face and lined the hoody with hyper breathable mesh. Reinforced softshell shoulders, an attached hood and a free-moving fit – it’s a new species of light, warm of breathable.

Belay Parkas Patagonia DAS Parka (http://www.patagonia.com/eu/enGB/product/mens-das-parka?p=84102-0) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/unnamed.jpg?w=388&h=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/unnamed.jpg)

For full-on alpine conditions, the DAS Parka is our warmest insulated jacket; it’s made with high-loft 120-g PrimaLoft® Synergy insulation throughout, additional PrimaLoft® ONE insulation in core areas, and a lightweight, PU-coated nylon ripstop shell that is durable, highly water-resistant and windproof.

Features

CGR says: “So far we’re loving this newest incarnation of the Rolls Royce of belay parkas. A cosy haven on damp cold days.”

The North Face Prism Optimus Hoody (http://www.thenorthface.co.uk/tnf-uk-en/men-s-prism-optimus-hoodie-jacket/p88071.html) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/tnf-prism-optimus-hoody.jpg?w=388&h=439) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/tnf-prism-optimus-hoody.jpg)

For base camp to summit comfort choose The North Face® Men’s Prism Optimus Hoodie for a helmet compatible down insulated mountaineering jacket. Welded box wall baffle construction keeps the heat retaining 700 fill down in place and eliminates cold spots. Primaloft® insulation on the shoulders and arms stays warm when wet or compressed. The adjustable, wired peak hood is baffled for belay snugness aided by the thick draft proof yoke. A polyurethane (PU) kiss coating on the resilient Pertex® Endurance ripstop shell adds all-over moisture resistance. Sleek pre-cinched cuffs and pockets inside and out complete the specification. Burly, baffled and built from athlete input, The North Face® Men’s Prism Optimus Hoodie is a Summit Series™ down insulated mountaineering jacket for cold climbing.

Features 

CGR says: “A super warm down and Primaloft jacket probably best suited to cold and dry Alpine climates.”

Haglofs Barrier Pro II Belay (http://www.haglofs.com/en-us/products/clothing/layers/insulation/men/barrier_pro_ii_belay_en-us.aspx) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/unnamed1.jpg?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/unnamed1.jpg)

A very packable, lightweight wind resistant hooded synthetic insulated jacket.  With the new Quad Fusion+ insulation material made from 100% recycled Polyester, which allows moisture to be drawn away from the body.  The hood has a reinforced peak, and is 3 way adjustable. 2 mid mounted torso pockets, and one chest pocket. Includes a stuff sac.

Features

CGR says: “A great jacket from Haglofs. We love the simplicity, cut and warmth to weight ratio. Perfect for Scottish winter climbing.”

Millet Belay Device (http://www.millet.fr/en/products/spring-summer-2013/mens-down-jackets/belay-device-jacket) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/millet-belay-device.jpg?w=388&h=413) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/millet-belay-device.jpg)

Ultra-light, water-repellent and compressible thermal protection with PrimaLoft® Sport insulation. For year-round technical mountaineering in cold conditions.

 Features

Fabrics

CGR says: “Another great piece of kit from French company, Millet. A perfect package for frigid belays on Scottish mixed routes. Everything you need.”

Most of the above are available in Male and Female options. Look out for reviews of many of these featured jackets over the coming winter.

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Title: FABRIC TECHNOLOGY LEADER COCONA INC HAS A NEW NAME: 37.5™ – Climbing Gear News
Post by: comPiler on December 06, 2013, 12:00:22 am
FABRIC TECHNOLOGY LEADER COCONA INC HAS A NEW NAME: 37.5™ – Climbing Gear News (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/12/05/fabric-technology-leader-cocona-inc-has-a-new-name-37-5-climbing-gear-news/)
5 December 2013, 6:26 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/37-5-international-logo.jpg?w=388&h=389) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/37-5-international-logo.jpg)  FABRIC TECHNOLOGY LEADER COCONA INC HAS A NEW NAME: 37.5™

Powering Leading Global Brands with the Ultimate Performance Products Cocona Inc the high performance technology behind many of the world’s leading active apparel brands such as Adidas, Rab and Salomon is being re-launched under the new brand name of 37.5™. The 37.5™ identity highlights the scientifically proven benefits of Cocona’s patented, active-particle technology which enables activewear products – and the consumers who wear them – to out perform others.

The 37.5™ rebranding symbolizes the brands unique ability to capture and release moisture vapour, whilst helping the body to maintain optimal relative humidity and temperature. The 37.5 technology therefore enhances the body’s natural thermo-regulating mechanism to quickly remove moisture from your microclimate and help to maintain comfort. Comfort for example is greatly influenced by the body’s ability to manage temperature and humidity next to the skin, in order to maintain an ideal “37.5 zone” of 37.5% relative humidity and 37.5°c core body temperature. Therefore Apparel constructed from 37.5 technology enhances drying rates, offers sufficient cooling to avoid odour retention, whilst importantly preserving more energy for longer lasting performance.

“The new 37.5™ name clearly expresses the benefits of our technology to the brand partners we work with, and to consumers who are seeking the best in performance activewear and other products. The 37.5 technology is designed to boost the performance of products and the people who wear them. If our bodies expend less energy staying comfortable, more energy can be directed into the activities we love.” CEO Jeff Bowman

Cocona Inc’s rebranding to 37.5™ succeeds in moving the brand forward, in line with its technological advancements adding value, whilst providing a leading performance edge to fibers, fabrics, laminates, insulation, and films used in over 60 top brands worldwide.

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Title: Winter Climbing Harnesses – a CGR Buyer’s Guide
Post by: comPiler on December 13, 2013, 12:00:17 pm
Winter Climbing Harnesses – a CGR Buyer’s Guide (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/12/13/winter-climbing-harnesses-a-cgr-buyers-guide/)
13 December 2013, 8:14 am

Winter climbing is a Marmite activity, you either love it or hate it. Personally I come into the love it category. It’s a love affair that I’ve only recently (in the last 7 years and I’ve climbed for nearly 30) rekindled and nurtured and I’ve been rewarded with some of the best climbing memories I have.  The beauty of the surroundings together with the physical and mental demands on my body are the motivational factors that drive me to make the early starts, long drives and late finishes feeling exhausted.

There was an hilarious thread on UKC about the the winter belay here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=276395. I think that sums up winter climbing nicely!

Winter climbing places extra demands on both your body and equipment that rock climbing doesn’t. More so than ever your equipment has to perform because the consequences if they don’t, although rarely fatal, can elongate what is already going to be a long and tiring day. It stands to reason then, when buying kit for winter climbing you should have the best you can afford and then add a bit (you can always go without beer for a week or two to pay that extra). Having good performing kit will pay dividends in the long run, especially in winter.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/p1060731.jpg?w=388&h=217) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/02/p1060731.jpg)Richard Allen on Orion Direct, Ben Nevis, just after the Basin. Not a place to scrimp on kit! This CGR Buyer’s Guide focuses on that staple item the harness: a harness is the link between your body and your protection. It also has to carry all that extra gear and be comfortable on extended belays whilst your partner is scratching their way up some desperate Grade VI trying to uncover some elusive gear placement. Here we will go through some important points to consider when looking for a winter specific harness.

Comfort You’ll spend a lot more time in your harness during a winter day out than you would summer rock climbing; winter days out are not uncommonly 8 or even 10 hours and you’ll be doing a variety of other activities like walking or even skiing in it. So with this in mind you should be looking for a nice wide waist belt, most modern harnesses will have a wide back which tapers towards the buckle. Wide leg loops will also pay dividends if your hanging off an ice fall for 2 hours. So make sure you look for this feature; a super thin, narrow sports climbing harness isn’t going to cut it in this environment. Ventilation isn’t so much an issue as you have so much clothing on that losing heat through a harness isn’t as critical as say an alpine day out.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/p1050978.jpg?w=388&h=517) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/p1050978.jpg)You will spend all day in your harness during winter. Make sure it’s comfortable. Another comfort issue is the dreaded toilet visit (I don’t know what it is with me but as soon as my harness is on I need the loo) – your harness should definitely be easy to unclip the leg loop adjustments (these are at the back of the harness). If the worst should happen and you need to make a toilet visit it should be easy to go whilst still in the harness.

Adjustablility You need to size your harness for both summer rock climbing and pay attention to the extra layers you’ll be wearing during winter. Most harnesses now have a good range of sizes but if you fall into the crossover size category (i.e. you’re a large medium) then err on the larger size. The waistbelt should adjust so that the gear loops sit symmetrically on either side of your waist.

Buckles Buckles should be glove friendly – this is the number one consideration as you don’t want to handling metal with bare skin in sub zero temperatures. You should be able to undo the buckles completely and easily, especially the leg loops.

I’ll give you a personal example of why: I was walking into Coire –an Lochan is the Scottish Cairngorms a few years back to have a look at Hoarmaster with a good friend. Conditions were typically early season Scottish with a huge plume of spindrift blowing off the tops. I put on my crampons and walked steeply up to the base of the route and then tried to get my harness on. I was already feeling blasted by the conditions and was hopping around and teetering trying to get my fixed leg loops over my harness. I suddenly lost my footing and nearly went for a 200m slide but just about steadied myself. Needless to say I went out and bought an adjustable leg loop harness for my next trip.

The incident could have been avoided by putting on the harness before climbing to the base of the route or by undoing the leg loop buckles. I often keep the leg loop buckles fully extended or undone and this makes the job easier.

Many modern harness designs now include self-locking buckles for both the waist and leg loops. This is great for convenience but do be sure you can still undo them easily and remember to re-thread them back the correct way!

Gear Loops and Ice Clipper slots Although 4 gear loops are adequate for any climbing I prefer 5 for winter climbing. I carry a little extra gear for UK winter such as pegs, warthogs, bulldog and ice screws so I feel an extra gear loop spreads the load. I like to keep all my belay stuff on the back loop so I’m not faffing with my gloves on at the belay, it’s important to be efficient at the belay as your partner is likely to be frozen and keen to get going.

Gear loops should be complemented by the addition of ice clipper slots. These should be burly in construction as you will be removing them often to rock climb in the harness. They are very useful for ice climbing and I even use them mixed climbing as I can often access my wires easier off an ice clipper when wearing gloves.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/triglav-winter.jpg?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/03/triglav-winter.jpg)Make sure your gear loops can cope with a UK winter rack. Other considerations to think about could be – packability; if you like to go small and light then a mesh type harness or thin fabric packs smaller. Snow shedding fabrics – some manufacturers include a surface fabric that helps shed snow, this can help drying the harness out when climbing several days on (there’s no point carrying unnecessary water to the route is there) and inclined gear loops for efficient gear selection.

Here’s a selection of harnesses that we at CGR feel are suitable for winter climbing. Some will be reviewed throughout the season so watch out for those in-depth reviews!

DMM Renegade II (http://dmmclimbing.com/products/new-renegade-harness/) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/rene_new.jpg?w=300&h=228) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/rene_new.jpg)DMM Renegade II The 2013 Renegade is the third evolution of our premium adjustable leg harness. It now has an improved racking system designed to work with both summer and winter racks, a narrower belay loop for better compatibility with small belay biners and skinny rear elastics that are light whilst still holding their position well.

CGR says – a good looking all rounder that looks like it’s at home on Gogarth or The Ben. We’re looking forward to trying it out on both. It certainly feels lighter and those 7 gear loops will come in handy.
SRP: £70.00

DMM Puma II (http://dmmclimbing.com/products/new-puma-harness/) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/puma_new.jpg?w=300&h=214) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/puma_new.jpg)DMM Puma II This is our top of the range all-round harness for women. The combination of the Renegade’s feature set with the women-specific fit and distinctive styling make this a comfortable and supremely functional harness. Hard redpoints, trad adventures, winter and summer – the Puma can deal with it all.

CGR reviewer Kasia offers her intial thoughts : First impressions of the DMM Puma 2 harness is that it’s comfortable and neat and I love the floating waist pad so that I can easily centralise my rack no matter how many layers I’m wearing – and in winter that tends to be quite a lot for me. I haven’t quite got my head around what I’m going to do with all 7 gear loops (5 on sizes XS and S) but I’m sure I’ll work out what works best for me as time goes by. An opportunity hasn’t arisen as yet to try the ice clipper points– but I’m certainly looking forward to seeing how the harness performs this winter so I can give you an update.
SRP: £70.00

Edelrid Orion (http://www.edelrid.de/en/Edelrid/Sports/Harnesses/Orion-icemint.html) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/harness-orion-icemint-2013.jpg?w=310&h=306) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/harness-orion-icemint-2013.jpg)Edelrid Orion The Edelrid Orion is a harness designed with comfort in mind. It uses EDELRID’s 3D-Vent technology, a combination of a wide waist-belt and ergonomic leg loops along with air-permeable ventilation holes, which allow for both excellent pressure distribution and breathability. The Orion features 4 gear loops as well as 2 ice screw attachment points for organised, convenient racking and uses a plastic abrasion protector for additional durability at the tie-in loop. The Orion also features adjustable leg loops and a single waist adjustment, which ensures that the tie-in loop and gear loops remain centred at all times.

CGR reviewer Richie Allen offers his first impressions: Though the Orion from Edelrid is billed as an ‘all-rounder’ suited to sport or mountain use its design is slanted more toward the trad and winter climber. Ample racking by way of four asymmetric gear loops and two low profile cunningly concealed ice clipper slots (which it appears they have had to label so you can find them!) should cope with most racks. What sets this harness apart is its ’3D Vent’ technology which shapes the very wide foam padding ergonomically whilst using thin webbing strips to support the foam and allow ventilation. The waist-belt is a similar width to my other harnesses but definitely more ‘shaped’ whereas the leg-loops are significantly wider. This certainly seems to aid comfort when just hanging in the harness and it will be interesting to see how they feel on longer winter routes.
SRP: £85.00

Wild Country Summit (http://www.wildcountry.com/products/harnesses/summit-harness) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/wild-country-harness64395_72dpi.jpg?w=310&h=310) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/wild-country-harness64395_72dpi.jpg)Wild Country Summit The new four buckle Summit is a multi tasking monster built to chase big goals, where adjustability, capacity and integrity are the watchwords.

A rare combination of features and performance, including Wild Country’s classic double buckle waist, our new ‘Load Spreading Technology’ laminate belt and Ziplock buckles throughout, makes for an instant classic. Designed for multi-pitch, mountain, Alpine, big wall & guiding.

Features: New ‘Load Spreading Technology’ laminate belt, New  DWC500 durable outer, New 20mm Ziplock double buckle waist, New 16mm Ziplock leg loops, Seven new moulded gear racks, ‘Batwing’ belt shaping, 22kN Belay loop , Haul loop, Two ice racks, Two sizes, SML, REG.

CGR reviwer James Parkinson with his initial thoughts: The Summit is a very comfortable harness for all-round use. Seven gear loops mean that you can carry everything you’d ever want (some might think them overkill!) although if you use the two ice clipper slots you will lose two large gear loops.

The two buckle waist belt means the harness is very adjustable for different seasons and clothing systems although it is not as straight-forward to use as a simple one buckle set up.

All-in-all, the Summit is a well built piece of kit that will work well for all types of climbing in all seasons.
SRP: £70.00

Arcteryx M-270 (http://www.arcteryx.com/product.aspx?language=EN&gender=mens&category=Climbing_Gear&subcat=Harnesses&model=M-270) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/f13-m-270-harness-cinnabar-1.png?w=310&h=199) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/f13-m-270-harness-cinnabar-1.png)Arc’teryx M-270 Harness Lightweight, comfortable harness designed for performance-focused ice and mixed climbers.

CGR says: a pretty minimalist harness with just enough gear loops for ice climbing, alpinism or continental mixed and plenty of ice clipper slots too. I’ve not used it on a big Scottish mixed pitch yet but a bandoleer may be required to help carry my rack. It features fixed leg loops but these are built to accommodate clothing and work fine so far for me. At 270g it is super light and packs small! Sexy!

SRP: £90.00

Petzl Hirundos (http://www.petzl.com/en/outdoor/mountaineering-and-climbing-harnesses/hirundos) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/hirundos-1_0.jpg?w=349&h=349) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/hirundos-1_0.jpg)Petzl Hirundos The Hirundos is Petzl’s ultralight, super compact harness designed to maximise climbing performance. Aimed at sport climbers, yet versatile enough for all-round use, the Hirundos features Petzl’s Frame Construction with breathable monofilament mesh evenly distributing pressure, providing support and comfort. Woven mesh on the inside of the harness wicks moisture, while perforated closed-cell foam increases breathability. The ‘DoubleBack’ buckle is pre-threaded and adjusts with a single pull. Rigid, inclined front equipment loops give easy access to gear while flexible rear loops stay out of the way while wearing a backpack. There are two CARITOOL slots for winter use, and the elasticised leg loops have a large range of expansion for correct fit, while staying in place on the thighs. Sizes: S, M, L . Weight 270g (size S).

CGR says: an iconic and established harness from French company Petzl. Seen on the waists of many of the great and good. Just don’t expect to have your normal UK massive rack hanging from it!
SRP: £62.00

Black Diamond Aspect (http://blackdiamondequipment.com/en/climbing-harnesses/aspect-harness-BD651058_cfg.html?dwvar_BD651058__cfg_color=Deep_Blue) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/651058_aspect_dblul_web.jpg?w=349&h=314) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/651058_aspect_dblul_web.jpg)Black Diamond Aspect Ice routes in Canmore. Sport climbs in Rodellar. Splitters at Indian Creek. For those who climb it all, all year long, the Black Diamond Aspect provides four-season performance and comfort with our Dual Core XP Construction™. Dual Core XP features a waistbelt with two thin bands of webbing around the outside of the frame and an EVA foam insert to evenly distribute load without pressure points. The Aspect is designed with 4 Ice Clipper slots to accommodate your tools and screws, plus 4 pressure-molded gear loops and a 12 kN-rated haul loop. We also added pre-threaded Forged Speed Adjust buckles on the waistbelt and leg loops (to accommodate varying layers through the seasons) and Bombshell abrasion patches (which are 20 times more durable than standard nylon).

CGR says – this is great looking all round harness, we love the skinny rear gear loop, which is large and inconspicuos. It looks great for winter mixed as well as sport climbs and we’re looking forward to testing it out on both!
SRP: £75.00

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Title: Arc’teryx Beta LT Jacket – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on December 16, 2013, 06:00:19 pm
Arc’teryx Beta LT Jacket – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/12/16/arcteryx-beta-lt-jacket-climbing-gear-review/)
16 December 2013, 4:08 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx1.jpg?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx1.jpg)(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/f13-beta-lt-jacket-chipotle-copy.jpg?w=272&h=389) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/f13-beta-lt-jacket-chipotle-copy.jpg) For me the makings of a good hardshell jacket, is if I barely notice I’m wearing it. So, with the revised Beta LT Jacket, have Arc’teryx achieved just that? Performance*****

Style *****

Value*****

In short, yes, the Beta LT Jacket is such a piece. Lightweight, durable and flexible with a full coverage helmet-friendly hood, it features all the things you need, without any of the superfluous clutter of many other modern hardshells.

I’ve never been a huge fan of hardshells as I generally find even the best to be sweaty, overfeatured and bulky so it’s been nice to find out that the Beta LT is quite the opposite. I’ve used it for about 3 months now in a variety of conditions and for a variety of activities and it’s quickly become my “go to” shell for all of these things. I’ve used it mountaineering in the Alps on windy, snowy days; I’ve used it in heavy downpours whilst fell running in the Lake District and I’ve used it mixed climbing in the most challenging of weathers on Ben Nevis. In all of these activities it has proved its worth.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/img_3665.jpg?w=388&h=517) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/img_3665.jpg)The author mixed climbing on Gargoyle Wall, Ben Nevis, an environment which suited the Beta LT Jacket perfectly. So why do I like it so much? Well, as mentioned earlier, the beauty of this jacket is its lightweight and simplicity.

The Beta series of garments from Arc’teryx are designed for all round use and from the activities I listed earlier, the LT clearly cuts the mustard here. LT stands for lightweight and at 355g for a 3 layer Gore Tex Pro Shell jacket, few can dispute the fact this jacket is light. It feels light when it’s on too, adding to that “don’t know you’re wearing it” sensation. Yes, there are lighter jackets out there but remember, lightweight is always going to have a trade off in terms of durability, or lack of. And in terms of this, the Beta LT is holding up nicely. I mean, it’s been scuffed on granite chimneys and taken shouldered ice tools on mixed routes, with not so much as a mark.

The “supple yet durable N40p-X face fabric” adds to this durability. It is a softer fabric than I’ve witnessed on a lot of hardshells so seems to have less of the annoying rustle factor. This means it is nicer to wear. It is not stretchy, nor a softshell but the cut of the jacket is so good that it moves with you and doesn’t restrict you.

Arc’teryx market the jacket as being “Trim fit, with e3D patterning, Hip Length” and I can confirm that it fits within all these parameters. The length is great, fitting nicely under a harness without riding up. The trim fit layers perfectly over a baselayer and light midlayer such as the Cerium LT Hoody or equivalent Coreloft piece, but there would be little room for anything else. As this is more of a ‘fast and light’ style product, then it isn’t the shell to go for if you want something you can layer lots of insulation layers underneath, although there is nothing stopping you up-sizing I suppose, though I can guarantee there are other products with a different cut that fulfill this need more readily.

The e3D patterning provides a tailored fit and means that the jacket does not ride up whilst climbing. The sleeve length is perfect and has great articulation. The velcro cinch cuffs are simple and low profile and the work well under or over gloves.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/img_3624.jpg?w=388&h=517) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/img_3624.jpg)The Beta LT jacket is light, breathable, well cut and has a great hood. It’s as perfect for activities like fell running in foul weather, as it is for mountaineering and alpine climbing. The “WaterTight™ Vislon front zip” works smoothly and seals out the elements effectively, relinquishing the need for a bulky storm flap. All zippers have glove friendly tabs and run very smoothly. The Beta LT features a simple, 2 chest pocket design, both closing neatly via water tight zippers into zipper garages to help keep things dry. I don’t think a jacket needs more pockets than this and in terms of an alpine climbing shell, I think one pocket would actually be enough, although this may not be in keeping with the all round mantra of the Beta garments. The Beta LT also features one small internal pocket, which is a nice feature and one I like to use for my car key, something I always like to keep on my person these days after hearing about a friend of mine who kept his in his pack and dropped the pack from his bivi spot on a winter ascent of the Frendo Spur in Chamonix!

The final thing that makes this jacket so good as far as I’m concerned is the hood. It is so well designed and easy to adjust.  It fits perfectly over a helmet and doesn’t feel like it’s compressing your neck when you put it up. It also works well without as the drawcord adjusters cinch it down and reduce the volume effectively. I can never understand why manufacturers would produce jackets for climbing or mountaineering without a helmet-friendly hood, but I have seen many. Thankfully this is not one of them.

So, to conclude: The Beta LT jacket is a superb lightweight 3 layer hardshell. It is so versatile, simple and comfortable I now use it for all mountain activities, from running to mixed climbing. My current favourite shell and a full five star garment!

NOTE: The Beta LT is also available for women. View it here (http://www.arcteryx.com/product.aspx?gender=womens&model=Beta-LT-Jacket-W&language=EN).


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Title: Marmot Isotherm Hoody – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on December 20, 2013, 12:00:09 pm
Marmot Isotherm Hoody – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/12/20/marmot-isotherm-hoody-climbing-gear-review/)
20 December 2013, 11:27 am

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CGR tests the Marmot Isotherm using the new Polartec® Alpha filling.
In outerwear’s natural selection, our award-winning Isotherm Hoody is evolution at its best.
Performance****

Style ****

Value****

Marmot have been busy, earlier in the year we tested the Nabu Jacket  (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/10/10/marmot-nabu-jacket-climbing-gear-review/)using the new Polartec Neoshell® fabric, this time they have devised a breathable insulation jacket using the new Polartec Alpha® fabric.

So, let’s look at the filling: Polartec devised an insulated filling for the US Special Forces which could insulate yet be breathable in cold, active conditions. It provides all the benefits of a traditional synthetic insulation piece, compressible, light and warm when wet and yet is breathable.

The filling works because the fibres are vertical and not horizontally positioned like a traditional insulation jacket. So imagine a waffle like netting with the insulating fibres pushed through the small squares to look like a brush. The fibres then act in a direct wicking action to deliver sweat through to the outer fabric.

The Marmot Isotherm Hoody  (http://marmot.com/products/details/isotherm-hoody)is a wear all day jacket, you can wear it on the approach and then climb it. You will need another shell for rain, snow or very windy days but it did perform well in all the climbing situations I put it through. In fact it has become my jacket of choice for all mountaineering activities. I often have to put a jacket on and leave it on, when I’m out training for my MIA I’m in a jacket all day so having a jacket that could breathe was really helpful.

Of course, it didn’t keep me dry when sweating. Many people think that modern breathable fabrics act like a string vest and will keep you  dry even when you are charging up the side of a mountain. But that’s not the object because we know that it doesn’t work that way. What we want is for the garment to dry out quickly when we arrive at the route or stop for a while. The Marmot Isotherm Hoody  (http://marmot.com/products/details/isotherm-hoody)was designed for just that. The inside of the jacket was perforated in all the main sweat areas, the back and under the arms. This allowed the moisture to be wicked away very efficiently.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/marmot-isotherm-approach.jpg?w=388&h=291) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/marmot-isotherm-approach.jpg)The perforated lining helped shed moisture on those sweating approaches. The outer fabric is made from Pertex Quantum, a very light fabric with a micro ripstop weave. It was stretchy on the shoulder area to help in climbing situations. The fabric seemed robust enough and I’ve been climbing in it solidly throughout the autumn and it isn’t showing any signs of piling or have any bobbles. The Pertex Quantum was also inside where it wasn’t perforated.

It was reasonable at shedding a shower or light snow but soon began to get wet. You would need to definitely wear a hardshell over the top. I wore it with both a lightweight hardshell and the Marmot Nabu softshell jacket over the top and was fine. It didn’t feel too bulky under a shell and compressed nicely whilst still keeping it’s insulating properties.

The fit was standard belay jacket. It was fine to wear over a midlayer top when on a belay or on a colder day when hiking. It would also be great for skiing or any active wintersport, although it isn’t a full winter parka. It was great for those chilly rock climbing belays when you need an extra layer. It would have been nice to have an integral stow pocket so that it could have been clipped to a harness so you need to have it stowed in a pack, this did affect it’s portability. I must say though that it is very light and it stuffed into any small space in my pack.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/marmot-isotherm-climbing.jpg?w=280&h=420) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/marmot-isotherm-climbing.jpg)The cut was great for climbing in and warm on cold climbing days. The sleeves worked well and the cut meant there was minimal rise when reaching for those high hand holds. The hem was elasticated with piping which gripped around gloves. There were three pockets, two hand warmer pockets that were accessible when wearing a harness and a neat chest pocket that was big enough for a phone, ipod, some energy bars or even a ski pass. The YKK zips all worked well and zip tags worked well enough although they could have been more glove friendly.

One of the real advantages of synthetic insulation garments is their ease of washing. No special treatment or pure soaps needed just pop it into the machine with everything else. No need to add fabric conditioner and a leave it to either dry naturally (with a good shake when dry) or my preference is to pop it in a tumble dryer for 30 mins when it’s almost dry and this really brings back the loft. The Marmot Isotherm washed and dried really well, the loft was good in both situations; this was also true when dried in a drying room.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/mormot-isotherm-hood.jpg?w=388&h=291) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/mormot-isotherm-hood.jpg)The hood was adequate for over helmet belays. The hood worked well, it adjusted with a toggle situated at the back. I really liked it when wearing a peaked cap and I never felt cold when it was cinched up. It fitted under a helmet very well and the front of the hood did not interfere with vision. It just about fitted over a helmet for belaying but it didn’t fit well enough for climbing.

All in all the Marmot Isotherm Hoody  (http://marmot.com/products/details/isotherm-hoody)has been a great all mountain jacket, just as good as a lightweight belay jacket as a full climbing midlayer. Warm on those breezy days and it drys out as quick as a flash.

Marmot offer a full range of sizes from Small to Extra Large and four colours to choose from. There is also a women’s specific version in sizes from XS to XL and more details of that jacket can me found here. (http://marmot.com/products/details/womens-isotherm-hoody)

SRP £180.00

Stockists (http://marmot.com/content/find-a-retailer)

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Title: Winter Conditions Report, Ben Nevis and Glencoe 22/12/2013 – Blog
Post by: comPiler on December 24, 2013, 12:00:15 pm
Winter Conditions Report, Ben Nevis and Glencoe 22/12/2013 – Blog (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/12/24/winter-conditions-report-ben-nevis-and-glencoe-22122013-blog/)
24 December 2013, 10:44 am

Second trip up to the West at the weekend for some Sottish winter climbing, we felt pretty optimistic on a seriously wild forecast! Driving rain and a brief thaw on Friday afternoon/night made us question our sanity, but fortunately the optimism paid off. (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/img_3723.jpg?w=388&h=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/img_3723.jpg)A brief interlude in the spindrift on Lost The Place, Ben Nevis. On Saturday James Foley and I headed up to Ben Nevis. A lot of the snow cover had been stripped low down with the rain but high up things were looking a lot better. We opted to go into Coire Na Ciste and this offered a bit of shelter from the wind. The coire was pretty much deserted. There was evidence of avalanche activity at the bottom of Number 2 and Number 5 Gully. We climbed Lost The Place, V 5 which is a great little mixed route, pretty varied and with a steep top pitch. This proved to be pretty sheltered from the wind until the final chimney which was being pummeled by spindrift. We topped out into a stern wind and quickly descended Number 4 Gully which seemed okay.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/img_3703.jpg?w=388&h=291) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/img_3703.jpg)Stob Coire Nan Lochan,Glencoe, 22/12/2013 On Saturday night a lot of snow started to fall on a pretty stern wind so we took a tentative walk up into Stob Coire Nan Lochan, Glencoe. It was a colder day all round with snow down to the valley floor. The walk in was hard going breaking trail through thigh deep snow high up. The wind was swirling around on the coire floor and it was obvious it would be difficult to find a sheltered route with a safe descent so after a bit of procrastinating we decided to bail out. We checked out the snow near the base of Broad Gully which had a 10 inch layer of windslab covering a deep layer of graupel. Pretty unstable stuff and a lot of care is going to be needed to find safe options at the moment.

This is the last Scottish update of 2013 as I’m off to La Grave for some skiing and climbing on Friday. So Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to all our readers. Stay safe out there!

Cheers, Kev.

Check these links before you head out:


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Title: First Impressions: The North Face Women’s Alloy Jacket and Trousers – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on January 20, 2014, 12:00:16 pm
First Impressions: The North Face Women’s Alloy Jacket and Trousers – Climbing Gear Review (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/01/20/first-impressions-the-north-face-womens-alloy-jacket-and-trousers-climbing-gear-review/)
20 January 2014, 8:16 am

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As part of The North Face Summit Series the Alloy jacket and trouser set is made for action and not just a walk in the park – though I’d certainly be happy to wear it on a lazy Sunday ramble…

Why? Because it’s soft, comfortable and practical all in one. The jacket and trousers use a hybrid material so that you’ve got a waterproof membrane where it counts on your hood and shoulders (jacket) seat and knees (trousers) and the rest is a soft shell fabric to help with the breathability side of things. It’s been designed for ski touring and mountaineering and with the matching trousers seems a great combination. I’m more into my mountaineering and ice climbing then skiing so I’m looking forward to trying this set when taking part in a  little bit of everything.

The North Face Women’s Alloy Jacket: read more on the TNF website. (http://www.thenorthface.co.uk/tnf-uk-en/women-s-alloy-jacket/p88079.html)

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I’ve been sent a size medium and think it’s just about right for me though I’d like to try a small as a comparison at some point. With the medium the cut is great in that the length doesn’t rise when I raise my arms in a climbing movement and the helmet hood fits well over my Edelrid helmet. I was a bit dubious when the product description talked about harness friendly pockets but with a harness I can actually get my hands in comfortably for a quick warm up if need be. The single external chest pocket can take my large Samsung Galaxy S3 phone with room for a bit of emergency food such as a cereal bar. A small pocket on the upper left arm will be fine for a key and/or ski pass. There are no internal pockets and it’s not the most packable jacket at around 700g it squashes down to the size of a small melon. Another feature is the ‘gripzones’ on the shoulders so your pack doesn’t slip – though I’ve not usually found this an issue.

Price: £280

The North Face Women’s Alloy Trousers: read more on the TNF website. (http://www.thenorthface.co.uk/tnf-uk-en/women-s-alloy-pants/p88080.html)

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Out of the bag – I love them and find them so comfortable. I’ve still got to put them to the test so fingers crossed my first impressions don’t change. The material means they are soft brushed inside and there is a comfortable stretch to the fabric which helps with movement. Features include adjustable and removable braces which only attach at the front. This threw me to begin with as I’d never seen this before but it works! The front fastens with the standard zip and popper stud, backed up and secured with a belt. The belt as far as I can tell can be removed but I don’t see a need to do this and I like it’s magnetic buckle to help keep it together. There are two hand warmer pockets on the front – nice and fleecy inside, and two side vents on your thighs that open straight to your skin for true ventilation. Kick panels and an internal gaiter finish the trousers off nicely.

Price: £250

I’m off skiing in February and hopefully some ice climbing before and after so looking forward to putting this pair through its paces.

Watch out for a full updated review towards the end of February.

Kasia Baldwin

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Title: Arc’teryx Cerium LT Hoody – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on January 22, 2014, 12:00:12 pm
Arc’teryx Cerium LT Hoody – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/01/22/arcteryx-cerium-lt-hoody-climbing-gear-review/)
22 January 2014, 11:39 am

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Canadian brand Arc’teryx have introduced their first down clothing collection for this winter. Kevin Avery tests their Cerium LT Hoody to see if they really are “down” with their down!

Performance****

Style *****

Value****

Arc’teryx say: “Streamlined, lightweight down hoody filled with 850 white goose down. This backcountry specialist hoody is intended primarily as a mid layer in cool, dry conditions.”

Okay, so first things first. Down jackets can be lovely things to wear, and that is one of the reasons you see so many people wearing them on the local high street! But at times I do wonder quite how practical they are for the UK market? Even Arc’teryx themselves say that the Cerium LT Hoody is primarily for cool, dry conditions, not exactly the sort of weather the UK is famous for! So, how did the Cerium LT get on? Did it cope with the damp of a British winter as well as it did with some cold, dry conditions in the French Alps? And did it cut the mustard on the street?!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/img_3666.jpg?w=388&h=517) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/img_3666.jpg)The Arc’teryx Cerium LT Hoody is perfect for cold, dry conditions such as this rare day on Ben Nevis. Since the Cerium LT Hoody arrived back in late October, I’ve worn it everyday. I have used it for break duties at work, going to the pub or for a wander round town, between attempts on boulder problems, thrown it on as an outer layer on lunch stops, skied in it in the Alps, used it as a belay jacket on ice and rock climbs and taken it out mixed climbing in Scotland. A lot of different things! So for one, it’s really versatile.

As an everyday piece of insulation in cold, dry weather, it is perfect. But like all down jackets, it doesn’t like rain (despite the DWR finish)! Down loses it’s ability to insulate when wet as it can no longer loft, it clumps together and cannot trap air meaning it can no longer keep you warm.

One of the Cerium LT Hoody’s first outings into some real mountain conditions was a day mixed climbing on Ben Nevis. It was a pretty wild day where the freezing level was fluctuating massively and precipitation was high. In fact a friend of mine commented that I was a little cruel testing down in such conditions! I wore the Cerium over my softshell to keep me warm after the hike into the crag, so I didn’t cool down while I geared up. Soft wet snow flakes and driving wind soon penetrated the outer shell and the down lost it’s ability to loft and in turn lost it’s insulating value. So why am I telling you this? Well firstly it’s important to note what the jacket was intended for (cold and dry conditions) and that these sorts of conditions (damp and wet) do not match that intention. But it was good to try, as kit really needs to be thoroughly and properly tested if an accurate assessment of it’s suitability is to be made!

Whilst the Cerium LT did not come out particularly well on the Ben Nevis test, neither would any other down jacket. I have tested many, including some of the new expensive hydrophobic down garments and in damp/wet environments they are not going to cut the mustard as an insulator in the same way synthetic equivalents like the Atom LT Hoody would. However the Cerium LT Hoody did recover from this very well indeed. And what is apparent, is that the cold, dry conditions it was designed for, it eats for breakfast! And that goes for cold, dry UK conditions (we do get the odd day) as well as those abroad!

After trying the Cerium LT Hoody I have continued to wear it on a daily basis. This helps to test it’s durability, which is proving to be excellent, particularly for such a light (275g) and delicate feeling piece. The DWR finish to the Airetica™ (100% nylon, 34 g/m²) fabric means that a few spots of rain or flakes of snow bead off easily and it also repels dirt and stains very well. It is very wind resistant and also breathable so this helps when wearing it as a midlayer during active pursuits like skiing. As well as Scotland, I also took it to the Alps (where the weather is cold and dry more of the time) and here, it really did excel! I wore it as a midlayer whilst skiing in La Grave, and it sat perfectly under a hardshell, the trim fit and hip length working intuitively with the body and other layers, not bulky and sitting well under a harness.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/p1080121.jpg?w=388&h=217) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/p1080121.jpg)The Arc’teryx Cerium LT Hoody worked brilliantly as a midlayer in cold weather. I used mine layered under a hard shell when skiing as seen here in La Grave, France. Some times during higher exertion periods,I would stuff it into it’s internal stuff sac (a really nice and effective feature) and it would take up no room whatsoever in my pack due to it’s tiny pack size. If I stopped for lunch, it would loft quickly when unpacked and my size small sample worked equally well over my shell. I used it as light belay jacket on some ice climbs too, and the stuff sac clipped barely noticeable to the rear of my harness.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/p1080216.jpg?w=388&h=291) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/p1080216.jpg)Arc’teryx Cerium LT Hoody – great as a light belay jacket in cold, dry climates. One of the big positives this jacket has is it’s simplicity. A great cut, simple cuffs, high quality down and 2 zippered handwarmer pockets are all you need (all the zippers on this jacket have been high quality and glove friendly by the way). Oh, and a hood. Which brings me on to my one minor gripe. A hood that is on a jacket that is designed for climbing or mountaineering pursuits, should always in my opinion, be able to work over the top of your helmet. You should not be thinking about taking your helmet off to put your hood up as this might put you in danger! Also if you put a down hood up and then put a helmet on, then you are going to compress the down and limit it’s insulating capacity. The hood works brilliantly without a helmet by the way, but I think on jackets like this they need to work over the top of a helmet too.

Right, one final thing. I’ve been lying to you; this is not 100% a down jacket! Arc’teryx have been clever…as you would expect…and have put the down where it counts! In simple terms:

“Strategic placement of synthetic and down insulation has Coreloft™ synthetic insulation, that retains warmth when wet, placed along the hem, collar, sleeves and underarms— areas prone to contact with moisture. 850 fill European Goose down lines the core and sleeves where warmth is most needed.”

This is a very nice feature and a good idea in my opinion and does make a difference in cold and dry environments when you are moving fast and sweating or cuffs and hems are getting damp through being in contact with snow. Synthetic insulation dries quicker and doesn’t lose its ability to keep you warm when it is wet.

So in conclusion, I love the Cerium LT Hoody in may ways and it feels truly luxurious to wear. It excels as a midlayer in the cool dry conditions for which it is designed and can be worn as a light outer layer/belay piece when you are not stopping for too long and the weather isn’t too damp. The cut, fabric and quality are superb. The downside is that it will not be suitable for damp/wet weather but then, it really is not designed for this. A helmet compatible hood would gain this a 5 star rating in my book.


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Title: A Double Win For Edelrid… – Climbing Gear News
Post by: comPiler on January 24, 2014, 12:00:13 pm
A Double Win For Edelrid… – Climbing Gear News (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/01/24/a-double-win-for-edelrid-climbing-gear-news/)
24 January 2014, 6:21 am

In the build-up to ISPO, the winter sports and outdoor trade show, German climbing brand EDELRID have announced a double win in the ISPO Outdoor awards category, including the coveted GOLD award which is presented to a single product that exemplifies innovation in its field. (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/edelrid-01-4c-bg-20.jpg?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/edelrid-01-4c-bg-20.jpg)

This year EDELRID received the GOLD award for its Corbie 8.6mm triple-rated rope, the thinnest climbing rope in the world to be rated for single use. Plus an additional award for the new Beast Lite, a 12-point crampon designed to combine the robust agressiveness of stainless steel with the lightness of an aluminium construction. 2014 marks the third consecutive year that EDELRID have taken home the GOLD award in the Outdoor category at ISPO, winning in 2012 for their Cable Vario Via Ferrata set and again in 2013 for the Snipe dual-diameter rope.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/edelrid-corbie-8-6mm-snow-icemint.jpg?w=378&h=1024) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/edelrid-corbie-8-6mm-snow-icemint.jpg)

The 8.6mm Corbie (RRP: £190 for 60m) will be available from select retailers from March 2014 and is the thinnest triple-rated rope to be found anywhere in the world. Suitability for use in a single, double or twin configuration is a result of EDELRID’s proprietary braided core construction, which functions as a rope within a rope. The incredible strength of this construction allows even very thin ropes, such as the Corbie, to pass the certification norms for a single rope, whilst also remaining lightweight, in this case 51g/m. The Corbie makes use of the full range of EDELRID finishing processes including Pro Shield where microscopic Teflon particles are bonded to the yarns providing a protective layer with greatly improved load-bearing properties. A Dry Shield hydro and oleo-phobic finish, which resists both dirt and moisture, and extends the working lifespan of the rope; plus Thermo Shield a heat treatment that relaxes and then shrinks the fibres of the rope, ensuring it remains both compact and supple throughout its long working life.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/edelrid-beast-lite.jpg?w=388&h=262) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/edelrid-beast-lite.jpg)

The Beast Lite (RRP: £240), launching Winter 2014, is a 12-point crampon designed for steep ice and mixed climbing, which is certified to EN 893 standards, and is recommended for use on vertical to overhanging mixed terrain where the vertical front points will not make extended contact with rock. The 680g weight is achieved through the use of an aluminium body construction with 3D geometry that makes new designs and shapes possible, which in turn increases the stability of the crampon. This allows for the use of thinner materials without compromising stability resulting in a crampon that is up to 60% lighter than current comparative models designed for ice and mixed climbing. The Beast Lite also features a pair of forged steel front points designed to offer exceptional purchase on ice, which can be easily adjusted from a double to mono point configuration to suit the needs of the climber. Alongside an interchangeable binding system that allows for compatibility with both semi-automatic (B2/C2) and automatic (B3/C3) bindings. The Beast Lite is supplied with anti-balling plates.


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Title: Outdoor Research Alpine Alibi II Gloves – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on January 24, 2014, 12:00:14 pm
Outdoor Research Alpine Alibi II Gloves – Climbing Gear Review (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/01/24/outdoor-research-alpine-alibi-ii-gloves-climbing-gear-review/)
24 January 2014, 8:17 am

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/outdoor_research_logo.png?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/outdoor_research_logo.png)

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/gtx_gl-12117_500.jpg?w=388&h=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/gtx_gl-12117_500.jpg)Outdoor Research Alpine Alibi II Glove For climbers operating regularly in the mountains in winter, gloves take a lot of abuse. Kev Avery puts the Alpine Alibi II Glove from Seattle based, Outdoor Research, to the test to see if it can be warm, dexterous and tough… Performance****

Style ****

Value****

 

Outdoor Research say: “Designed for altitude, the updated for Fall ’13 Alpine Alibi II™ combines superb dexterity and grip with serious warmth and protection. The gloves are built of weather-resistant stretch soft shell fabric for a secure, comfortable fit, with a waterproof/breathable GORE-TEX® insert to keep hands shielded from the weather and allow perspiration to escape during highly aerobic activity. We’ve added even more PrimaLoft® One insulation to expand the gloves’ comfort range, and the new internal gusset further protects against the elements.”

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/p1080251.jpg?w=388&h=217) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/p1080251.jpg)Testing the dexterity of the Outdoor Research Alpine Alibi II Glove on a cold day ice climbing in France. I generally demand a lot from a pair of gloves. I get cold hands (and feet) due to poor circulation and need a glove that is going to be warm, but dexterous enough for hard climbing. I also need them to last more than a season. They need to be tough!

Granted, I can not usually get all these things from just one glove. I normally carry 3 or 4 pairs on a day out winter climbing in Scotland, a warm gauntlet style for belaying, and a couple of thinner, short cuff, soft shell pairs for climbing technical pitches; feeling that it’s best to put up with a bit of extra cold for an increase in dexterity and a decrease in scare factor and pump.

So, where do the Alpine Alibi II Gloves from Outdoor Research fit in to all this? Well first of all, they are a full gauntlet style, lined with a Gore Tex membrane and insulated with Primaloft One (synthetic filling). This means you get great hand protection from the elements and they are warm. With 170g of Primaloft One insulation, Outdoor Research say these gloves have a target comfort range from -5°F to 20°F. And they really are warm! Probably a little too warm for strenuous pitches in Scotland but perfect as a belay glove or if you want to give your hands a boost when moving more slowly.

I used these gloves on quite a few damp (wet!) days in the Scottish mountains this season and the Gore Tex liners did keep my hands dry. What I did notice however, was that the stretch softshell outer fabric wetted out completely on a couple of occasions. These were pretty wet days but I could ring them out by the time I got back to the car, they were that saturated! Astonishingly, my hands were still fairly dry inside though!

 

I have used these gloves for climbing technical mixed pitches on Ben Nevis, ice falls in the Alps, winter mountaineering in temperatures down to -15 degrees C and also whilst skiing. They worked for all of these applications but probably performed best for me on winter Alpine climbs and ice falls of medium technical difficulty.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/p1080253.jpg?w=388&h=580) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/p1080253.jpg)The Outdoor Research Alpine Alibi II Glove was dexterous enough for placing protection on steep ice climbs and protected my hands from the elements. The dexterity of the Alpine Alibi II Gloves is very good for a glove of this warmth, but I did have a slight issue with the fit. I wear a size small in these (for comparison purposes I wear a medium in other brands such as Black Diamond) and whilst the fit and dexterity of the fingers was superb, the thumb was way too big for me and had the knock on effect of making the glove feel clumsy in those situations where lots of dexterity is needed, such as fiddling gear in and clipping on tricky cruxes! They may be fine for you, so you just need to try them on before you buy them!

So far the quality and durability is proving to be brilliant. The Pittards leather palm and fingers are showing very little wear. I really like the foam panels on the back of the hand for protection when using ice tools, however one thing I am noticing is that the edges of the fabric they are set into, are showing wear and this could maybe have been done more neatly. This is the only major sign of wear so far though.

Other features I like on these gloves are the internal gusset and SuperCinch gauntlet closure which do a nice job of sealing out the elements. The Idiot Cords are also great too and a good backup to stop the clumsy ones amongst us, dropping them 1000m down an icy North face!

So to conclude, the Alpine Alibi II Glove from OR is a well made, warm and protective gauntlet, great for winter Alpine climbing, Scottish routes as well as skiing and general mountaineering. The fingers are dexterous for a glove of this warmth rating although I did find the thumbs too long for me.

 

 

 

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Title: Winter Conditions Report, Coire an t’Sneachda, Cairngorms – Blog
Post by: comPiler on January 28, 2014, 12:00:50 am
Winter Conditions Report, Coire an t’Sneachda, Cairngorms – Blog (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/01/27/winter-conditions-report-coire-an-tsneachda-cairngorms-blog/)
27 January 2014, 9:58 pm

Climbed in the Cairngorms with Kasia on Saturday. The forecast was pretty wild, with high winds and heavy snow forecast, so we remained flexible. (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/p1080336.jpg?w=388&h=276) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/p1080336.jpg)Kasia following the first pitch of Original Summer Route IV 5, Coire an t’Sneachda, 25/1/2014 The walk in was pretty damp with sleet falling on a strong wind from the SW. Many of the routes in Coire an t’Sneachda are pretty buried at the moment but Alladin’s Buttress is holding up ok. However a lot of the climbs are technically much easier than usual but also quite a bit bolder, with gear being particularly hard won.

There were some pockets of wind slab on the approach slopes and care will be needed after all the new snow and wind. We opted to climb Original Summer Route IV, 5 and this gave some good climbing and a little bit of respite from the wind. It also offered a safe abseil descent. Other teams were out on Doctor’s Choice, Patey’s Route, Invernookie and The Seam.

 

We didn’t manage to climb on Sunday as the ski road was closed due to blizzard conditions. The unsettled weather has made it a frustrating season so far but hopefully it will come good soon. Safe climbing!

 

Cheers, Kev.

Check these links before you head out:

 

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Title: Mammut Alugator Light Shovel – Skiing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on January 28, 2014, 12:00:12 pm
Mammut Alugator Light Shovel – Skiing Gear Review (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/01/28/mammut-alugator-light-shovel-skiing-gear-review/)
28 January 2014, 9:57 am

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/mammut-logo.jpg?w=272&h=225) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/mammut-logo.jpg)

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/shovel.png?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/shovel.png)Mammut Alugator Light Shovel James Parkinson heads into the mountains with his Mammut Alugator Light Shovel. A crucial piece of kit for off piste/backcountry skiers. Quality: *****

Value: ****

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/p1080183.jpg?w=388&h=291) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/p1080183.jpg)James Parkinson with the Mammut Alugator Light Shovel in the off piste ski heaven of the Vallons De La Meije, La Grave, France. One of the major dangers of venturing into the mountains in winter is avalanche. It is recommended

that all skiers (and perhaps climbers should too) carry and know how to use certain pieces of

equipment when heading away from controlled and pisted areas, namely the holy trinity of

transceiver, probe and shovel. CGR took the Mammut Alugator Light shovel to La Grave over New

Year with the hope of never having to take it out of a backpack!

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/p1080180.jpg?w=388&h=688) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/p1080180.jpg)The Mammut Alugator Light Shovel packs neatly into a skiing day pack and at 650g it is sturdy without weighing you down. My first impression of the shovel was that it is a quality piece of kit. The blade is made from

anodised aluminium (metal blades are much more reliable and useful than plastic or Perspex) and

the build quality is excellent. The two piece T-grip telescopic handle attaches into the head with a

solidly resounding click and locks in place with a spring-loaded pin.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/p1080176.jpg?w=388&h=688) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/p1080176.jpg)The anodised aluminium blade on the Mammut Alugator Light Shovel coped well with hard snow. When compared to Kev’s Black Diamond shovel, the blade is about the same size but the handle is

four inches shorter. I’m not sure this makes a massive difference in usability and I personally found

the Mammut to be easier to put together than other shovels I have used. When in two parts (blade and handle) the shovel fits very neatly into a sack, whether a small ski-specific one (I used a 16L Osprey Switch) or a larger one with climbing or crevasse rescue kit. At 650g it won’t weigh you down but feels sturdy in use.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/p1080182.jpg?w=388&h=217) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/p1080182.jpg)The shaft of the Mammut Alugator Light Shovel is slightly shorter than on some other shovels we have used but didn’t noticeably affect it’s digging efficiency. One nice touch to the blade are the two holes for a sling to be threaded through to allow it to be

used as a deadman. Pretty niche usage I guess but there if you want it!

Thankfully, the only time the shovel came out of the bag in France was to dig a pit to check the

layers of snow after a new fall and not to get anyone out after a slide. However, if it came to it, I

think the Mammut Alugator Light would be well up to the job and I’ll be taking it on all my future

backcountry adventures.

 


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Title: The North Face Radium Jacket – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on January 29, 2014, 12:00:15 pm
The North Face Radium Jacket – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/01/29/the-north-face-radium-jacket-climbing-gear-review/)
29 January 2014, 7:43 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/tnf-logo-e1382943588102.jpg?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/tnf-logo-e1382943588102.jpg)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/a0nq_d1r_fw13_0.jpg?w=272&h=317) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/a0nq_d1r_fw13_0.jpg)Dave tests out the super warm Hi-Loft fleece from The North Face…
The North Face Men’s Radium Hi-Loft Jacket for mountaineering has the highest warmth to weight ratio of any Hi-Loft fleece from The North Face.
Performance****

Style****

Value***

Hi-Loft fleeces are a staple in any mountaineering clothing catalogue and many of us will have owned a few in our climbing careers (I even go back as far as the original Helly Hansen fleece, in fact I have mate who still has a full outfit – the original onesie!). The advantages are: they are very warm, they look good in casual wear, they are hardwearing and durable. They also last a long time and are very breathable. So there are lots of reasons to have one as part of your general climbing apparel collection.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/tnf-radium-1.jpg?w=388&h=291) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/tnf-radium-1.jpg)The TNF Radium jacket was very breathable and dried out quickly. Hi-loft fleeces have dipped in and out of favour over recent years, especially with the advent of synthetic insulation jackets which also can look good casually and fit nicely under a shell. But they are more breathable than wearing a jacket with a Pertex type shell and it’s for that reason, they have superior versatility. They also require much less cleaning care so are great on expeditions when you may need to clean some clothing (on occasion of course), as  The North Face Radium jacket  (http://www.thenorthface.co.uk/tnf-uk-en/men-s-radium-hi-loft-jacket/p88075.html)can just be washed in a stream, left to dry on a branch and hey presto – all the insulating properties have been restored as quick as you like!

The North Face Radium  (http://www.thenorthface.co.uk/tnf-uk-en/men-s-radium-hi-loft-jacket/p88075.html)jacket is marketed as having the highest loft fleece material in their entire range and boasts the highest warmth to weight ratio. It is part of The North Face Summit Series so is designed as a technical mountaineering garment. It’s made using Polartec Thermal Pro fleece with Polartec Power Stretch panels at the sides, the collar and the sleeve hems. The Polortec Thermal pro was very warm and the loft was indeed fantastically high! These types of fleeces can appear very ‘furry’ and be awkward to wear under a hardshell with an athletic (or climbing) fit. This wasn’t the case with the The North Face Radium jacket (http://www.thenorthface.co.uk/tnf-uk-en/men-s-radium-hi-loft-jacket/p88075.html), it fitted well under my The North Face Anti-Matter jacket  (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/05/09/the-north-face-anti-matter-jacket-climbing-gear-review/)and this provided an excellent winter combination. I did however feel a little inhibited for technical climbing, however for mountaineering it was great.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/tnf-radium-2.jpg?w=388&h=291) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/tnf-radium-2.jpg)The TNF Radium jacket fitted nicely under a hardshell. I could wear the Radium fleece for walking in to the base of a routes, by the time I had got all my kit sorted the fleece material had dried out and I was ready to pop a shell on. Breathability was aided by the great looking baffle design. This gave the fleece the same baffling configuration as jackets such as the Crimptastic (http://www.thenorthface.co.uk/tnf-uk-en/men-s-crimptastic-hybrid-jacket/p83277.html) and the Catalyst (http://www.thenorthface.co.uk/tnf-uk-en/men-s-catalyst-micro-jacket/p88243.html) and allowed the jacket to have a much more superior breathability than either of those. In calm conditions the jacket was plenty warm enough but as soon as the breeze got up you needed a shell to maintain that warmth.

Without a shell the jacket was good for climbing in, it felt durable on those more thrutchy types of routes where you would rip your Pertex-shelled insulation jacket to pieces. The cut was good and I had no major rise issues with the sleeves.

The sleeve cuffs, inside sleeves, side panels, collar and the back of the neck were all made from Polartec Power Stretch, this further aided breathability and provided some stretch for climbing. The collar and sleeve cuff were double thickness which was a nice touch. The collar was well sized and felt cozy when closed. There were no hem cinches around the bottom of the jacket, which was refreshing and added to the clean look. The YKK zips all worked well although they could have had more glove friendly zip tags on them. All the seams were flatlocked.

There two side, hand warmer pockets. These were pack friendly as stated and I could access them with a pack waist belt on. They were inhibited by a harness though and I could only access half of the pocket with a harness on. The pockets were nice and large however and I could easily get an OS map into one. Most notably there was no chest pocket, I felt this was a disappointment as I often use a chest pocket when climbing – keeping a topo in or keeping small amounts of food when on a multi pitch route. The jacket would have been much improved by the addition of this simple pocket, either inside or out.

All in all The North Face Radium jacket  (http://www.thenorthface.co.uk/tnf-uk-en/men-s-radium-hi-loft-jacket/p88075.html)is a good mountaineering fleece. The Polartec Thermal Pro fleece material is indeed incredibly warm and packs down well enough to take up little space in a climbing pack. The jacket is breathable and stylish. I have been using it casually all season and its versatility is great. It is robust, washes easily and the technical cut is great for all mountain activities.

SRP: £140

Stockists (http://www.thenorthface.co.uk/tnf-uk-en/ustorelocator/location/map/)

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Title: Haglöfs Barrier II Pro Belay Jacket – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on January 30, 2014, 12:00:15 pm
Haglöfs Barrier II Pro Belay Jacket – Climbing Gear Review (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/01/30/haglofs-barrier-ii-pro-belay-jacket-climbing-gear-review/)
30 January 2014, 6:30 am

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/haglc3b6fs_logo_basic-white-on-black.jpg?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/haglc3b6fs_logo_basic-white-on-black.jpg)(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/barrier-pro-ii-hood.png?w=388&h=483) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/barrier-pro-ii-hood.png)A synthetic belay jacket is a crucial piece of kit for winter mountain pursuits in the UK. James Parkinson gives us the lowdown on the Barrier II Pro Belay Jacket from Haglöfs… Let’s face it; belaying isn’t the most fun aspect of climbing. Standing at the base of the crag while your mate dangles interminably from the same bolt on a sport route (“I’ll just try this move again!”) or embracing the suffering on some freezing cold, spindrift-blasted ledge in Scotland isn’t most right thinking people’s idea of a good time. Belay duty can be made much more pleasant (or at least less unpleasant) with the addition of a decent insulated jacket. In the UK, the climate is more often than not on the damp side and so down isn’t the best option. Better to go for a jacket with synthetic insulation, such as the Haglöfs Barrier Pro II Belay Jacket.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/p1080247.jpg?w=388&h=688) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/p1080247.jpg)James Parkinson about to begin a potentially unpleasant belay stint in some dubious weather. The Barrier Pro II Belay Jacket gets a thorough test! The Barrier Pro II Belay Jacket uses QuadFusion+ insulation, a synthetic polyester fibre which comes from 100% recycled materials and weighs 100g per square metre. I found this plenty warm enough for everything I needed and I wore the jacket belaying on grit trad, between attempts on boulder problems as well as belaying on continental ice falls in the middle of a snowstorm. It even coped with the winter commute!

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/img_3797.jpg?w=388&h=517) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/img_3797.jpg)The Haglöfs Barrier Pro II Jacket keeps you warm (and looking cool!) on cold, dry days like this one in La Grave, France. It is light and compact enough to carry on all your adventures, but offers the warmth and protection of a full on belay parka. The outer shell of the jacket is made of DWR treated Pertex Quantum which feels pretty light and silky to the touch but seems fairly tough in use. No holes in it yet! The shoulders and sleeves are reinforced with a slightly thicker version of the fabric (30D as opposed to 20D in the body) and this works well. In light rain, I found that water beaded up on the surface of the jacket and on many occasions, I chose to wear it instead of a full on shell jacket. Of course, in heavy rain you will get wet but you’ll stay warm.

For a jacket designed to go over all your clothes (throw it over your shell layer on the stance), I found the sizing to be slightly on the small size so I’d recommend trying before you buy. That said, the hood is massive and fits very easily over a helmet. The three way adjustable bungee cords work well, although the one on the back of the hood is exposed so may catch on things.

The full length zip can be opened from the bottom for ease of access to your harness – somewhat standard issue nowadays but by no means universal. There are two large chest pockets that easily fit a guidebook as well as two hand warmer pockets. The cuffs are elasticated which makes a nice seal from the elements but can make getting the jacket on and off slightly difficult when wearing bulky gloves. I would have preferred a Velcro adjuster but others might not.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/p1080223.jpg?w=388&h=688) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/p1080223.jpg)The Haglöfs Barrier Pro II Belay Jacket has a 2 way zip, a crucial feature on proper belay jackets. Try to size it to fit over your out layers. The hem draw cord keeps everything neat and can be adjusted at both sides of the hips with one hand. A stuff sack (non-integrated) is supplied but unfortunately this doesn’t have a clip loop, so I had to use another to clip the jacket to my harness while climbing. A small thing, but could have easily been sorted.

The Barrier Pro II Belay Jacket is available in Noble Blue/Firefly (kind of purple and lime) or a more subtle Magnetite. Either way, it is a very good (barring a couple of niggles) synthetic jacket that I’ll be pulling on when the spindrift starts firing!


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Title: Edelrid Nineteen G Quickdraw Set – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on January 31, 2014, 12:00:11 pm
Edelrid Nineteen G Quickdraw Set – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/01/31/edelrid-nineteen-g-quickdraw-set-climbing-gear-review/)
31 January 2014, 7:05 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/edelrid-01-4c-bg-20.jpg?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/edelrid-01-4c-bg-20.jpg)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/edelrid_19g_18cm_set.jpg?w=388&h=67) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/edelrid_19g_18cm_set.jpg) Kev Avery puts the ultra-light 19G Quickdraws from Edelrid through their paces to see if light really is right… Quality: *****



Usability: ***and a half



Value: ****



(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/p1010935.jpg?w=388&h=291) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/p1010935.jpg)The Edelrid 19G Quickdraw doing its job on a classic Chamonix ice climb. In activities such as alpine climbing, the ‘less is more’ philosophy has been developing for a while. The ‘climb light, fast and high’ style advocated by alpine specialist, Mark Twight in his book, Extreme Alpinism, has been continually evolving with the help of modern lightweight gear. This has has culminated in some awe inspiring ascents in the Greater Ranges, most notably Ueli Steck’s audacious solo of the South Face of Annapurna recently.

But what does this mean to Joe Average, heading off into the hills? And is there a point where ‘light is right’ just goes too far?

Well, when the Nineteen G quickdraws arrived from Edelrid, I did wonder! The karabiners looked more suited to hanging keys up than protecting climbers. However as saving weight, in turn saves me energy, meaning I can go quicker and for longer (at least that’s the theory), then I was certainly going to give them a fair crack of the whip!

So let’s start with some stats. A single 19G karabiner weighs well, 19 grams actually (19.5 to be exact)! One of my standard wire gate karabiners weighs 37 grams, nearly twice as much! But what about strength? Well, the closed gate strength of a 19G karabiner is 20 KN, the minor axis strength is 7 KN as is the gate open strength. With my standard karabiner the gate closed strength is 24 KN, the minor axis rating at 7KN (the same as the 19G) and gate open strength, 9 KN. Reading these stats it’s obvious that there is a strength difference. But make no doubt about it, these are both full strength karabiners. And the reduction in strength is actually not such a great deal when you consider the reduction in weight.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/p1080354.jpg?w=388&h=258) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/p1080354.jpg)An Edelrid 19G Karabiner alongside one of my standard full size karabiners. Note the size difference! Whilst we’re on with stats, particularly weight stats, I’d just like to mention the weight of a full 19G quickdraw. It weighs in at 45 grams! That is two 19G karabiners joined with a 10cm (18cm lengths are also available), 8 mm Dyneema® quickdraw sling. My standard quickdraw with 2 standard wire gate karabiners at 37 grams each and a more durable 14mm, 10cm dyneema sling, weighs 82 grams. Again, this is nearly double! Twelve standard quickdraws weighs in at nearly a kilogram (984 grams). Twelve 19G quickdraws weigh just over half a kilo (540 grams) meaning an instant weight saving of 444 grams. Sounds good hey?

So, like I said earlier, light is good in lots of ways. The most obvious being that you use less energy and can move quicker and more efficiently while climbing. I’ve really enjoyed using the 19G quickdraws over the last 6 months, in a range of different situations from trad rock climbing to alpine mountaineering. Clipping a set to my harness, I instantly noticed the saving in weight and this is definitely a bonus.

But what is the down side? Ok, well the main down side with Edelrid’s 19G quickdraws is the size. This (small size) is actually a big positive in some respects, as it takes up less room in your pack but it also causes one or two potential issues. The main one being handling. When I first received the 19G quickdraws I did think that they would be nigh on impossible to use as the karabiners just seemed too small. It was nice to be proved wrong! The 19G karabiners are fine to clip and use without gloves on. I had to adapt my clipping style a little (as shown below) but whilst trad and sport climbing, I managed to clip without too many fumbles.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/diptic.jpg?w=388&h=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/diptic.jpg)I found I needed to adapt my clipping action a little due to the small size of the karabiners on the Edelrid 19G Quickdraw. (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/img_3053.jpg?w=388&h=291) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/img_3053.jpg)It was nice to save some weight on multi pitch rock climbs! I probably wouldn’t use a full set of the 19G quickdraws for my rock climbing as I like the the extra versatility of a full size karabiner (being able to clip a couple of clove hitches into one karabiner etc) but I would definitely supplement my rack with half a dozen or so. I have also started adding the karabiners to 60cm slings to make extendable quickdraws.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/p1070711.jpg?w=388&h=217) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/p1070711.jpg)I added the Edelrid 19G karabiners to my 60cm slings to create long extenders and reduce the weight of my rack. Where the 19G quickdraws really came into their own for me, was on classic alpine terrain. Last summer I spent a lot of time climbing in the French and Swiss Alps. Travelling light on long routes at altitude means you move more quickly and this also makes things safer. I climbed routes such as the Italian Ridge on the Matterhorn and Kuffner Ridge on Mont Maudit using these quickdraws. I was wearing gloves on both these routes but as the climbing is not technical, I could generally use 2 hands to clip the rope so did not have any fumbling issues.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/p1010919.jpg?w=388&h=291) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/p1010919.jpg)The Edelrid 19G Quickdraws worked best on classic alpine routes such as the Aiguille Du Midi’s, Cosmiques Arete. I have also used them on more technical ice and mixed ground where I had to clip with one gloved hand and as long as my gloves were reasonably thin and dexterous, I did manage. I wouldn’t want to lead a hard mixed pitch with a full rack of 19G quickdraws though as I think it could lead to some fumbling and ‘gripper clippers’!

For those climbers who want the ease of clipping that a full sized karabiner provides, but some of the weight saving benefits then you may also want to have a look at the Mission Light Set; a 19G on the top end for clipping to pegs, bolts, gear etc and a larger Mission karabiner for clipping the rope into.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/p1070455.jpg?w=388&h=688) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/p1070455.jpg)Kasia Baldwin using the Edelrid 19G Quickdraws on more technical ground whilst leading the crux pitch of Mt Blanc du Tacul’s Chere Couloir. One minor concern I had was how the karabiners would sit when clipped into pitons as I have found this to be a problem in the past. However I didn’t find this to be any more of an issue than with other karabiners I have used.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/p1070445.jpg?w=388&h=688) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/p1070445.jpg)Edelrid 19G Quickdraw clipped into a piton. So, to sum things up. The 19G quickdraws from Edelrid are a well made, full strength and ultralight quickdraw, best suited to classic alpinism, but also a great supplementary addition to your trad or sport rack. Their small size means they are not as easy to clip, particularly when wearing gloves but they do a great job of reducing the weight on your back or around your waist, meaning you can move quicker and more efficiently. Light really can be right!


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Title: Ble Ice warthog 38 – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on February 05, 2014, 12:00:38 am
Ble Ice warthog 38 – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/02/04/ble-ice-warthog-38-climbing-gear-review/)
4 February 2014, 7:13 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/blueicelogowhitebgrectangular.jpg?w=272&h=57) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/blueicelogowhitebgrectangular.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/warthog38l.jpg?w=272&h=380) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/warthog38l.jpg)

CGR tests out the Warthog 26’s big brother to see if bigger is better.
The Blue Ice Warthog 38L is tough and light like its little brother, the Warthog 26L, but added volume and features make it suitable for longer adventures.
Performance****

Features***

Value****

Earlier in the season we tested the Blue Ice Warthog 26 (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/09/05/blue-ice-warthog-26-pack-climbing-gear-review/), a climbing day pack. He loves that pack and there are several climbing buddies that use it. CGR editor Kev Avery concluded that some British climbers might find the pack a little small for their liking and that the 38L version would be for them.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/img_3120.jpg?w=388&h=291) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/img_3120.jpg)Kev testing the Warthog 26, the Warthog 38 feels much bigger. So we asked for one on test with a regular British climber – me! I would say that my climbing packing is more to the British taste as I like to have a little redundancy for safety reasons. When we go out climbing I’m the one that seems to have a shelter, first aid kit, GPS and a little extra clothing. Of course I pay for that; often being the last to arrive at the route. More hill sprints required!

So being a regular climbing dude it was left to me to test the larger pack, it arrived just in time for the Scottish winter climbing season to begin. So does bigger mean better?

As with other Blue Ice packs (http://www.blueice.com/products/en/6-backpacks), there are only just enough features for the pack to perform so it is a very ‘clean’ looking pack with no extra straps flying around. There are no side compression straps, shoulder tension straps or excess pockets. In fact there is no excess anything which brings the pack in at just under 900 grams, very light for a pack that size.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/warthog-2.jpg?w=388&h=517) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/warthog-2.jpg)The Warthog 38 is light enough for those big walk ins. The materials are pretty bombfroof with the main body and lid made with 500D Cordura with the base and axe sleeve made from 850D Cordura Ballistic. So a very durable material combination means that this pack will last for several seasons. Extra durability is provided by bartack and double stitching to all the main load bearing points,the stitch count was very high. The pack had a great ‘burly’ feel to it.

The back legth is one size, fixed with no stays for support, in fact the only padding is provided by by a triple folded 4mm foam mat. Careful packing is therefore needed for a long walk in as I could feel lumps digging in (but with a repack the next day it was fine). Although the pack had a floppy feel as I was putting it on, once on it proved quite stable to carry. The lid was also fixed which meansd that it would be difficult to load for a multi day expedition, but would be fine for a day or so. The lid pocket was huge and I could easily fit guide, maps, belay gloves and even small shell jackets. There was an internal, zipped pocket that was plenty big enough for a phone and wallet – there was no key clip inside here, Blue Ice say that the internal pocket is just for your keys and easier to use than a key clip. This would work as long as you didn’t access the pocket again, that still leaves where to put your wallet and phone. In fact after some time I found where to put my car key securely. There is a sewn loop inside the helmet mesh pocket and you will still need a small biner to keep your keys completely secure. The lid tightened with an upwards pull, I’ve used this system well with other packs and you’d be surprised how effective it is. The buckle was a little small for my liking and I would have liked to have seen something a little more durable, lid buckles are first to go on a pack so durability here is worth a little extra weight.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/img_0004.jpg?w=388&h=291) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/img_0004.jpg)Could be loaded up with plenty of kit for a big day in the mountains. Other pockets include a very handy helmet mesh pocket at the front of the lid, this held my helmet very well but was fiddly to use with gloves on, very fiddly indeed. There was also a hydration bladder pocket which I didn’t  use (as I’m not a hydration bladder fan) expect for storing maps. The bivvy mat was also accessed by a large, zipped compartment that could also provide an extra secure pocket. There were also two sewn gear loops sewn inside the pack for those who likie to organise their gear that way.

The shoulder straps were well padded and very comfortable with sewn fabric hose loops which were great for attaching my altimeter to. There was an adjustable sternum strap with a whistle buckle closure. All straps were bartack stitched, easy to adjust and very durable.  I would have liked to have seen some tension straps on the shoulders as this would have helped with heavy loads.

The Blue Ice Warthog 38  (http://www.blueice.com/products/en/backpacks/26-warthog-38l.html)also came with 5 very industrial attachment points and two removable straps. The bottom strap is a very important part of the axe carry system so needs to be left in position, the other three can be used for ski and crampon attachment as well as anything that won’t fit in on a muliti day bivvy. The attachment points are reinforced with Hypalon that were cleverly folded to take extra shock cord. They also double up as compression straps, the idea being that it keeps the side of the pack clean.

There was a 50mm, removable waist belt. This was secured with Velcro and was easy to remove in the field. There were tension straps on this area to help with fine adjustment for the carry. The axe carry system was the sleeve variety and is different from the early version of the Blue Ice Warthog 26. It had a double layer of the Cordura Ballistic together with shock cord shaft attachment and a full strap to secure them.

So, in conclusion the Blue Ice Warthog 38L  (http://www.blueice.com/products/en/backpacks/26-warthog-38l.html)pack is a huge pack that will fit everything you can throw in it for a Scottish winter day out, summer cragging, Alpine overnight bivvies and ski mountaineering adventures. It is streamlined, comfortable to carry and climb in with just enough features and no cosmetic extras. It needs to be full for the best support otherwise it can feel a little floppy; it needs a clip on the key loop and would benefit from shoulder tension straps on heavy carries. It will last years and like Kev with the 26L version it has quickly become the pack of choice for my winter adventures.

RRP £110.00

Stockists (http://beyondhope.co.uk/stockists/blue-ice-stockists/)

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Title: Blue Ice Warthog 38 – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on February 05, 2014, 06:00:11 pm
Blue Ice Warthog 38 – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/02/04/ble-ice-warthog-38-climbing-gear-review/)
4 February 2014, 7:13 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/blueicelogowhitebgrectangular.jpg?w=272&h=57) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/blueicelogowhitebgrectangular.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/warthog38l.jpg?w=272&h=380) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/warthog38l.jpg)

CGR tests out the Warthog 26’s big brother to see if bigger is better.
The Blue Ice Warthog 38L is tough and light like its little brother, the Warthog 26L, but added volume and features make it suitable for longer adventures.
Performance****

Features***

Value****

Earlier in the season we tested the Blue Ice Warthog 26 (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/09/05/blue-ice-warthog-26-pack-climbing-gear-review/), a climbing day pack. Kev loves that pack and there are several climbing buddies that use it. However, CGR editor Kev Avery concluded that some British climbers might find the pack a little small for their liking and that the 38L version would be more for them.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/img_3120.jpg?w=388&h=291) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/img_3120.jpg)Kev testing the Warthog 26, the Warthog 38 feels much bigger. So we asked for one on test with a regular British climber – me! I would say that my climbing packing is more to the British taste as I like to have a little redundancy for safety reasons. When we go out climbing I’m the one that seems to have a shelter, first aid kit, GPS and a little extra clothing. Of course I pay for that; often being the last to arrive at the route. More hill sprints required!

So being a regular climbing dude it was left to me to test the larger pack, it arrived just in time for the Scottish winter climbing season to begin. So does bigger mean better?

As with other Blue Ice packs (http://www.blueice.com/products/en/6-backpacks), there are only just enough features for the pack to perform so it is a very ‘clean’ looking pack with no extra straps flying around. There are no side compression straps, shoulder tension straps or excess pockets. In fact there is no excess anything which brings the pack in at just under 900 grams, very light for a pack that size.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/warthog-2.jpg?w=388&h=517) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/warthog-2.jpg)The Warthog 38 is light enough for those big walk ins. The materials are pretty bombfroof with the main body and lid made with 500D Cordura with the base and axe sleeve made from 850D Cordura Ballistic. So a very durable material combination means that this pack will last for several seasons. Extra durability is provided by bartack and double stitching to all the main load bearing points,the stitch count was very high. The pack had a great ‘burly’ feel to it.

The back length is one size, fixed with no stays for support, in fact the only padding is provided by a triple folded 4mm foam mat. Careful packing is therefore needed for a long walk in as I could feel lumps digging in (but with a repack the next day it was fine). Although the pack had a floppy feel as I was putting it on, once on it proved quite stable to carry. The lid was also fixed which means that it would be difficult to load for a multi day expedition, but would be fine for a day or so. The lid pocket was huge and I could easily fit guide, maps, belay gloves and even small shell jackets into it. There was an internal, zipped pocket that was plenty big enough for a phone and wallet – there was no key clip inside here, Blue Ice say that the internal pocket is just for your keys and easier to use than a key clip. This would work as long as you didn’t access the pocket again, that still leaves where to put your wallet and phone. In fact after some time I found where to put my car key securely. There is a sewn loop inside the helmet mesh pocket but you will still need a small biner to keep your keys completely secure. The lid tightened with an upwards pull, I’ve used this system well with other packs and you’d be surprised how effective it is. The buckle was a little small for my liking and I would have liked to have seen something a little more durable, lid buckles are first to go on a pack so durability here is worth a little extra weight.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/img_0004.jpg?w=388&h=291) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/img_0004.jpg)Could be loaded up with plenty of kit for a big day in the mountains. Other pockets include a very handy helmet mesh pocket at the front of the lid, this held my helmet very well but was fiddly to use with gloves on, very fiddly indeed. There was also a hydration bladder pocket which I didn’t  use (as I’m not a hydration bladder fan) expect for storing maps. The bivvy mat was also accessed by a large, zipped compartment that could also provide an extra secure pocket. There were also two sewn gear loops sewn inside the pack for those who like to organise their gear that way.

The shoulder straps were well padded and very comfortable with sewn fabric hose loops which were great for attaching my altimeter to. There was an adjustable sternum strap with a whistle buckle closure. All straps were bar-tack stitched, easy to adjust and very durable.  I would have liked to have seen some tension straps on the shoulders as this would have helped with heavy loads.

The Blue Ice Warthog 38  (http://www.blueice.com/products/en/backpacks/26-warthog-38l.html)also came with 5 very industrial attachment points and two removable straps. The bottom strap is a very important part of the axe carry system so needs to be left in position, the other three can be used for ski and crampon attachment as well as anything that won’t fit in on a multi day bivi. The attachment points are reinforced with Hypalon that were cleverly folded to take extra shock cord. They also double up as compression straps, the idea being that it keeps the side of the pack clean.

There was a 50mm, removable waist belt. This was secured with Velcro and was easy to remove in the field. There were tension straps on this area to help with fine adjustment for the carry. The axe carry system was the sleeve variety and is different from the early version of the Blue Ice Warthog 26. It had a double layer of the Cordura Ballistic together with shock cord shaft attachment and a full strap to secure them.

So, in conclusion the Blue Ice Warthog 38L  (http://www.blueice.com/products/en/backpacks/26-warthog-38l.html)pack is a huge pack that will fit everything you can throw in it for a Scottish winter day out, summer cragging, Alpine overnight bivvies and ski mountaineering adventures. It is streamlined, comfortable to carry and climb in with just enough features and no cosmetic extras. It needs to be full for the best support otherwise it can feel a little floppy; it needs a clip on the key loop and would benefit from shoulder tension straps on heavy carries. It will last years and like Kev with the 26L version it has quickly become the pack of choice for my winter adventures.

RRP £110.00

Stockists (http://beyondhope.co.uk/stockists/blue-ice-stockists/)

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Source: Climbing Gear Reviews (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Patagonia DAS Parka – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on February 10, 2014, 06:00:16 pm
Patagonia DAS Parka – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/02/10/patagonia-das-parka-climbing-gear-review/)
10 February 2014, 3:27 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/logo.jpg?w=388&h=76) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/logo.jpg)(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/unnamed.jpg?w=388&h=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/unnamed.jpg)Kev Avery puts a classic piece from Patagonia through its paces. The DAS Parka belay jacket… Performance****

Style ****

Value****

Patagonia say this about their current DAS Parka: “For full-on alpine conditions, the DAS Parka is our warmest insulated jacket; it’s made with high-loft 120-g PrimaLoft® SYNERGY insulation throughout, additional 60-g PrimaLoft® ONE insulation in core areas, and a lightweight, PU-coated nylon ripstop shell that is durable, water-resistant and windproof.“

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/p1080248.jpg?w=388&h=688) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/p1080248.jpg)All DAS’d up with nowhere to go! Testing Patagonia’s DAS Parka in the French Alps. A great belay parka fits over your outer layers and has a 2 way zip so you can access your belay loop. This is my second ever DAS Parka and Patagonia’s most recent incarnation of their classic synthetic belay parka. I bought my first in the Patagonia store on Oahu’s North Shore, it was 40 degrees centigrade at the time, and humid as hell so it wasn’t needed at that point, but the exchange rate made the purchase a ‘no brainer!’ I wore that DAS literally to death and it came with me on lots of adventures in Scotland and the Alps. When it did die I made use of Patagonia’s “Ironclad Guarantee (http://www.patagonia.com/eu/enGB/includes/ironclad_guarantee_pop_up.jsp?OPTION=SAR&assetid=2082&ln=25)” and was given a credit as they were not currently making the DAS. So, when I saw the DAS was back in the range, I was pretty psyched to try the new one!

BY the way, DAS stands for Dead Air Space. Basically you want it to trap lots of air, so it should hopefully be well named.

One thing I do remember about my old (circa 2004) DAS is that the sizing was huge! If you read our Belay Jacket Article (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/12/04/article-belay-jackets-a-cgr-buyers-guide/) you will already know that a good belay parka should fit over the top of your shell layers and this would explain the oversizing of the DAS. But this original one was massive and I actually opted for an XS size, and even this was fine over the top of everything.

So, one of the first things I noticed in the bumf from Patagonia, was that the new DAS was paired down in terns of fit. So, I opted this time for a size Small. And having used the DAS quite a bit now, I feel this was a good choice for me. I am 5 feet, 9 inches tall, about 65 kg and when I’m climbing I generally wear quite light and thin layers. Typically for technical climbing in winter I’ve got a baselayer wicking top, fleece midlayer and then a light shell. I may wear a synthetic gilet to insulate my core if things get really cold. The DAS fits easily over this ‘action suit’ and as such fulfills my first main requirement of a belay parka. It is also long enough so as to insulate my hips and glutes and the crucial 2 way zipper allows this to work, even over my climbing harness.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/img_3713.jpg?w=388&h=518) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/img_3713.jpg)The Patagonia DAS Parka in action on a belay stint in Scotland. Okay then…so far the fit is all good! Patagonia say it is more sculpted but I wouldn’t go as far as to say it is tailored as such, except maybe tailored in quite a boxy way to do a practical job, which is perfect for the kind of garment it is.

Keeping on with the fit theme, I liked the sleeve length and the simple elastic cuffs (others may prefer velcro). The hood was also very good, easily fitting over my Petzl Sirocco climbing helmet. Adjustment was also pretty simple, being via a single-pull drawcord to adjust overall volume and peripheral vision. This was easy enough to operate with big gloves on too. My one gripe with the fit and cut was the collar and neck. It did not seem to fit in with the ‘tall collar traps extra heat’ description on the Patagonia site and I have read other reviews which say the same thing. In my opinion it stops about an inch and a half too low to fully seal out the cold and damp, grim weather that has been thrown at it this winter in Scotland and the Alps. To get it to actually cover my face it actually pulled the shoulders up a little so a bit of tweakage is required in the design here I think.

A few finer details…

The 2 way zipper works smoothly even with gloves on. It doesn’t snag on the internal baffle and this baffle does a good job of sealing out wind. The two hand warmer pockets are operated with zips which again, are easy to use whilst wearing gloves as is the chest pocket, something which is handy for stuffing some food in to nibble on, whilst your mate is climbing. There are also 2 internal mesh pockets, a key feature on this type of parka. These are big enough to store spare gloves, a topo or even a 1 litre Nalgene type drink bottle.

The fabric Patagonia use on the current DAS is:

“1.2-oz 20-denier 100% nylon PU-coated ripstop, with a DWR (durable water repellent) finish. Lightweight PU-coated nylon ripstop shell is durable, water-resistant, windproof and treated with a DWR (durable water repellent) finish.”

It is supposed to be more water resistant and windproof due to the PU coating but this will compromise breathabilty a little I would have thought. It does seem durable though and pretty light. I’ve metaphorically kicked mine around quite a bit and it’s holding up fine. Back onto weight and it hauls in just under the 700g mark for my Small, a little lighter than my old DAS. The construction of the new DAS is much less of a stitch through one and this definitely helps eliminate cold spots in the insulation so this is a positive step.

Okay, so here is the BIG question. How warm is it?

Well firstly, this is kind of a relative thing as how warm something is to one person can feel totally different to another. Probably best to think in terms of insulation and fill, and then try and relate this to your own experiences and comparisons with other garments that you may have used.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/img_3716.jpg?w=388&h=518) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/img_3716.jpg)Warming up in my Patagonia DAS Parka after bailing from a route in bad weather. One key thing for the whole ‘action suit’/'belay parka’ system to work is that you need the layers to be more breathable the further a way from the body that they are. So, as the DAS is essentially going to be your outer layer, it needs to be pretty dam breathable. We’ve already talked about the PU coated fabric and the breathability trade off there, so what about the actual insulation?

Patagonia use, “120-g PrimaLoft® Synergy 100% polyester” throughout the DAS (arms, body hood etc) then in the torso an additional layer of  “60-g PrimaLoft® ONE 100% polyester” (essentialy adding a 60-g filling gilet to keep the core warm). Some have said already that the current DAS isn’t as warm as the old DAS and that is one of the ways Patagonia have managed to reduce the weight. I’m not so sure and out of all my current (similar weight, fill etc) belay parkas, this current DAS is without a doubt, the warmest. I can’t really give a scientific explanation other than what I have used these garments for, and how they feel for me. The DAS is also the lightest of the similar garments I have used.

You’ll notice that Patagonia have used 2 different types of Primaloft in the DAS. The main component is Primaloft Synergy (http://www.primaloft.com/uk/performance/products/primaloft-synergy.html), which as far as I can tell is a cheaper inferior fill to Primaloft One (http://www.primaloft.com/uk/performance/products/primaloft-one.html), meaning you get less warmth for weight? I’m not sure this sounds like the best reasoning to go with this insulation, although some have also reasoned that Synergy is more breathable than One, hence why the layer of One is on the inside? Others have also reasoned, that Synergy is more durable and repels water more readily, but is less compressible. Perhaps Patagonia acknowledge this as the stuff sack they provide is HUGE! At least the DAS goes in easy though! There is a great discussion about all of this on the Cold Thistle Blog (http://coldthistle.blogspot.co.uk/2012/12/patagonia-das-for-20132014.html) for those of you who are more interested.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/p1080358.jpg?w=388&h=258) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/p1080358.jpg)A stuffed size comparison. The DAS is on the right (669 grams), the Patagonia Nano Puff is in the middle (357 grams) and the 400g soup can gives things perspective! The DAS comes with a big stuff sack but will fit in a smaller one. I use a roll top dry bag for mine. Also for those of you who are wondering why Patagonia don’t use down in the DAS, then read our Belay Jacket Article (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/12/04/article-belay-jackets-a-cgr-buyers-guide/). They do actually make a hydrophobic down jacket, The Encapsil (http://www.patagonia.com/eu/enGB/product/special-edition-encapsil-down-belay-parka?p=84645-0), but this is over twice as expensive and still won’t provide the performance of a DAS in damp/wet environments. When I was reading up on some background stuff for this DAS review I came across Kelly Cordes’s blog (http://kellycordes.wordpress.com/2009/12/30/belay-parka-down-or-synthetic/) (yeah I know he works for Patagonia!) who had this interesting analogy about down versus synthetic:

“Think of it like women (or men – all about equality here). High-maintenance chicks suck. It’s a big drawback. Even if they’re hot. It’s like a down jacket. It doesn’t matter how comfy or nice looking it is, in the long run you’ll end up a beaten-down man with the thousand-yard stare, shivering and cold and lonely and broke and hating the world. For a quick session, though? (Meaning a day at the crag, get your mind out of the gutter!) Oh yeah.

But I’m in it for the long haul, baby.“

An amusing but meaningful analogy I thought…

Finally, I’m delighted to see that Patagonia have finally brought out a female version of the DAS. You can see that one on their website.  (http://www.patagonia.com/us/product/womens-das-parka?p=84110-0)

Okay let’s sum things up. The new DAS has been a great belay parka for me this winter. The only thing I would like to see is a higher collar so the coverage protects my mouth, face and chin better. The hood itself is fine and works over a helmet. I like the cut (it isn’t a fashion jacket), the 2 way zip, the inner and outer pockets and the lack of stitch through construction.It is also warm enough for me and light enough for the warmth it provides. There are still some questions re the insulation, and I don’t have the full answers yet. At £280 it is reasonably good value for the warmth it offers, and you also benefit from the Ironclad Guarantee that Patagonia offer.


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Title: Arc’teryx Alpha Comp Jacket and Pants – Climbing Gear News
Post by: comPiler on February 12, 2014, 12:00:23 am
Arc’teryx Alpha Comp Jacket and Pants – Climbing Gear News (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/02/11/arcteryx-alpha-comp-jacket-and-pants-climbing-gear-news/)
11 February 2014, 6:37 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx1.jpg?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx1.jpg)(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/unnamed.png?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/unnamed.png)

ARC’TERYX ALPHA COMPS: NEW PARADIGM FOR ALPINE CLIMBERS

Arc’teryx introduces the new Alpha Comp Jacket and Pant for 2014. Finely tuned, highly focused pieces with features, fabrics and a composite design exclusively combining GORE® 1.0 softshell material. Alpha Comp Jacket and Pant: two ice and alpine climbing specialists.

For climbers and alpinists, having the right equipment in the right conditions is imperative. However, in mountain environments, conditions can change quickly. Alpinists need to adjust rapidly to avoid exposure and critical loss of heat.

The new Alpha Comp Jacket and Pant from Arc’teryx are a unique solution using composite construction to manage multiple conditions. Exclusively combining waterproof, breathable GORE® Technology with Arc’teryx Fortius™ 1.0 softshell, the Alpha Comps protect climbers from weather and contact with ice and snow, while

also delivering freedom of movement and enhanced breathability.

The Alpha Comp Jacket has GORE® the shoulders, arms and hem where most exposure to snow and dripping water occurs. Fortius 1.0 softshell fabric in core areas allow the climber to reach freely and move quickly without overheating. The marriage of softshell and hardshell means fewer layers; less overall weight to carry and a system that can be worn all day.

Alpha Comp Jacket’s helmet compatible Storm Hood™ adjusts to move with the head for improved visibility. Removable Hemlock™ inserts keep the jacket securely tucked under the harness, and the trim fit enhances thermal regulation. There are two harness compatible hand pockets and a chest pocket to keep essentials handy.

The Alpha Comp Pant has articulated patterning and a gusseted crotch to facilitate freedom of movement. The waist adjustment uses a low profile metal hook to reduce potential for snagging, and the unique three position leg gusset can be adjusted for a low profile, crampon compatible fit. An easily accessible thigh pocket sits below the harness.

*The men’s and women’s Alpha Comp Jacket and Pant will be available in a limited Spring 2014 release Feb 15 2014 and at Arc’teryx retailers in Fall 2014.

CGR has a sample on test so look out for our review on here soon!


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Title: Outdoor Research Men’s Luminary Gloves – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on March 01, 2014, 10:09:28 pm
Outdoor Research Men’s Luminary Gloves – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/02/22/outdoor-research-mens-luminary-gloves-climbing-gear-review/)
22 February 2014, 8:21 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/outdoor_research_logo.png?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/outdoor_research_logo.png)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/m_luminary_gloves_blackember.jpg?w=388&h=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/m_luminary_gloves_blackember.jpg)Outdoor Research Men’s Luminary Gloves I recently reviewed the Alpine Alibi II Gloves (http://wp.me/p14X6I-SA) from Outdoor Research concluding that they were a great protective gauntlet, but I did have a few issues with the fit, particularly the thumbs.So how do the Men’s Luminary Gloves (http://www.outdoorresearch.co.uk/mens/gloves/mens-luminary-gloves/) compare? Performance*****

Durability****

Value*****

Well the Luminary is a gauntlet style glove but rather than having full waterproof protection via a Gore-Tex insert, OR have gone for a Gore Windstopper fabric instead. As a result the Luminary does offer fantastic weather protection (100% windproof, very breathable), but it is not waterproof. As such it performs best in cold and dry climates such as those found more regularly in the European Alps.

 

Outdoor Research say: “Technical ice climbing gloves designed for elite climbers, the windproof Luminary Gloves™ provide excellent dexterity while shielding from brutal weather conditions. Incredibly versatile three-in-one gloves.“

I’ve used the Luminary Gloves in Scotland this winter, whilst ice and mixed climbing and also in the Alps for skiing and climbing. They’re my current favourite gloves as they are so comfortable and versatile and this time, the fit is perfect for me (my test pair are Size Small). Again, fit is all down to you and not every glove will fit you perfectly. It’s really important to try them on before buying them. I find that the Luminary Gloves are warm but incredibly dexterous and I will quite happily lead technical ice and mixed pitches in these.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/p2130183.jpg?w=388&h=517) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/p2130183.jpg)The Outdoor Research Men’s Luminary Gloves are great for technical leads but also perfect as a warmer belay glove with the fleece liners. The loops allow easy attachment to your harness when climbing. I sometimes swap the removable fleece liners for a thinner silk pair on harder leads and this works fine without compromising the performance other than reducing the warmth a little. With some modular gloves in the past I’ve had issues with removing and replacing liner gloves, but not so with the Luminary, it all works very smoothly.

Warmth wise, the Luminary is marketed as a warm glove being suitable for a temperature range of -4 to -17 degrees C. I suffer with cold extremities due to poor circulation but have found these will keep my hans adequately warm in temperatures down to -10 C even when stationary, so they are definitely a warm glove. It is important to remember though, that as your gloves get damp, they will be less effective at insulating and this is why I always carry two or three pairs and swap between them, drying the others next to my skin.

Now let’s have a look at the features in a little bit more detail. The 100-Weight Fleece Removable Liner is comfortable, insulates effectively and fits well. It also slides in and out of the shell easily and is not hindered by the shell’s microfleece lining. This can be a problem with removeable liner gloves particularly when things get damp. The WINDSTOPPER® Soft Shell 94% nylon, 6% spandex fabric is windproof, flexible and more breathable than a full on waterproof fabric, but the downside is it is less likely to keep your hands dry when the precipitation really kicks off.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/p1020889.jpg?w=388&h=291) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/p1020889.jpg)Although marketed as an ice climbing glove, the Outdoor Research Men’s Luminary Gloves are great for a whole range of mountain activities. The combination of the 100% goat leather palm and fingers and the flexible soft shell fabric means that the luminary gloves are both durable and tactile. I can do most tasks in a pair of these, they have taken on multiple abseils too and are still looking pretty new.

I really like the cinch closure system which is easy to operate both on and off. These are a gauntlet glove and I feel that the extra protection this offers does not compromise flexibility. I also like the idiot loops which greatly reduce the risk of me dropping them when I do take them off.

So, I can conclude that The Luminary Gloves are awesome. They fit perfectly (for me), are well made, flexible and warm. Dexterity is great for a glove of this warmth too and I can highly recommend them for everything from technical ice to ski mountaineering. A great offering from OR and well worth the £100 as far as I’m concerned.


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Title: The North Face Men’s Kichatna Jacket – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on March 01, 2014, 10:09:30 pm
The North Face Men’s Kichatna Jacket – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/02/24/the-north-face-mens-kichatna-jacket-climbing-gear-review/)
24 February 2014, 5:56 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/tnf-logo-e1382943588102.jpg?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/tnf-logo-e1382943588102.jpg)(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/the-north-face-kichatna-jacket.jpg?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/the-north-face-kichatna-jacket.jpg)

Kev tests out the Kichatna Jacket from The North Face on some classic off piste ski descents in the Alps. Performance ****

Features *****

Value ****

The North Face say that their Kichatna Jacket, “is a technical, helmet compatible ski mountaineering shell in Gore-Tex Pro Shell for backcountry missions.” Paired with the Kichatna Bibs (review here  (http://wp.me/p14X6I-Uo)), it is designed to deliver top notch weather protection and performance to ski mountaineers.

So, firstly, it is important to say that whilst being part of The North Face’s Summit Series, the Kichatna Jacket is not an out and out climbing shell. It is aimed at skiers who may need to climb technical snow, ice or rock, or maybe just do a bit of strenuous skinning uphill, to reach their off-piste ski objective. Then they will snap on their skis and descend. This means the jacket needs to be flexible, allowing freedom of movement, breathability and durability on the up, before protecting you from the elements, such as wind and deep powder snow, on the way down. Does the Kichatna Jacket manage this and if so, how?

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/p1080121.jpg?w=388&h=217) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/p1080121.jpg)The North Face Kichatna Jacket is perfect for off piste skiing and mountaineering such as that found here in La Grave, France. Well, the Kichatna Jacket is fully featured. It has an enormous helmet compatible hood which fits easily over both my climbing and skiing helmets, and the adjusters and laminated brim work well to fasten it securely, whether it is up or down and also make sure it does not interfere with peripheral vision. I was really pleased to see such a good hood on this jacket, as a poor hood is the one thing that let’s many technical shells down.

TNF have added “tough grip-zones” on the shoulders of the Kichatna Jacket, apparently to help “keep your pack in place”. I’ve never really had an issue with this and I did think it was perhaps a little bit overkill. It does add an extra bit of durability particularly on the shoulders though, an area that is prone to abrasion and nicks when carrying skis or shouldering ice tools.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/p1020829.jpg?w=388&h=291) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/p1020829.jpg)The North Face Kichatna Jacket, off in search of powder in the Vallee Blanche, Chamonix. I personally found the Kichatna to be quite a roomy fit in the body. Not huge, but definitely not as trim as some other climbing shells I have worn. However as this is not an out and out climbing jacket, this is perhaps to be expected. I am 5 feet 9 inches tall, weigh 65kg and tested a size Small. This was perfect for me I think, but if I was any slimmer, it may have felt a little too big around the middle. So the cut of the jacket was a compromise. Roomy enough in the body for skiing and accommodating extra layer layers underneath and also other items such as an avalanche transceiver. With a baselayer, midlayer, light down jacket and my transceiver underneath, it still fitted comfortably and allowed my body and arms to move freely but did feel slightly bulky. Sleeve length was perfect and the jacket didn’t ride up when I was climbing and had my hands above my head though.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/p1080253.jpg?w=388&h=580) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/p1080253.jpg)The North Face Kichatna Jacket is not just a ski jacket and would appeal to those who want an all round mountain jacket. The hood is awesome! The Kichatna sits just below the hip and is slightly longer at the back, covering my bum. This length worked well with a climbing harness and the pocket configuration didn’t interfere here either. I did find that the internal removable powder skirt provided a little too much extra bulk for my liking but I just rectified this by taking it out when I was using the jacket with a harness and leaving the powder skirt at home, this way it didn’t obscure my vision when looking down or wearing my harness. It was nice to have a powder skirt on those days when I was skiing powder off lifts on none glaciated terrain though and it just kept me that little bit more comfortable.

Going back to the pockets and the Kichatna Jacket has many! Probably too many for my liking really, even on a fully featured jacket like this. I’d be happy with 2 handwarmer pockets or 2 chest pockets, but the Kichatna offers both! Others may like this feature though, but I feel fewer pockets would still offer sufficient storage, whilst giving the Kichatna a slicker feel.

The hem drawcord is adjusted via toggles situated in the handwarmer pockets, and this works really nicely, adding a clean uncluttered element to the outside of the jacket. I also like the way the hood drawcords are secured as there is much less chance of one whipping you in the face in a gale!

Looking more closely at the fabric, the Kichatna Jacket is manufactured using 40D 105 g/m² 100% nylon GORE-TEX® Pro Shell ripstop with a micro grid ripstop woven backer in the body and a 80D 150 g/m² 100% nylon GORE-TEX® Pro Shell plain weave with a micro grid ripstop woven backer, in the shoulder and underarm area.

This 3 layer construction is tough and durable in terms of it’s protection from the rain and wind, but there is a slight compromise in terms of breathability. This is the case with any fully waterproof shell though. I didn’t have a problem with the breathability of the jacket, particularly in cold dry environments such as the European Alps. And on warm days or when doing strenuous activities like skinning uphill, I would layer accordingly or use the pit zips. It also kept me perfectly dry in the wet winter weather we’ve had in the UK of late. The construction of the jacket with all 3 layers being bonded together as one, means less wear and tear, and also less bulk.

So, to conclude, the Kichatna Jacket does what it says on the tin. It would be a great choice for the all round UK mountaineer, is a brilliant ski jacket and when paired with the Kichatna bibs, provides full on storm protection for skiers and climbers. The hood is awesome. The only downsides for me are the slightly bulky cut in the midriff and maybe it could lose a pocket or two. A great all round mountaineering shell.

The North Face Kichatna Jacket can be paired with the Kichatna Bibs, a review of which is available here. (http://wp.me/p14X6I-Uo)


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Title: The North Face Men’s Kichatna Bibs – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on March 01, 2014, 10:09:33 pm
The North Face Men’s Kichatna Bibs – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/02/25/the-north-face-mens-kichatna-bibs-climbing-gear-review/)
25 February 2014, 1:40 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/tnf-logo-e1382943588102.jpg?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/tnf-logo-e1382943588102.jpg)(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/the-north-face-kichatna-bibs.jpg?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/the-north-face-kichatna-bibs.jpg)Following on from his review of the Kichatna Jacket, Kev looks at their counterpart, The North Face Kichatna Bibs… Performance ****

Features ****

Value ****

This winter I’ve been reviewing a ski mountaineering hard shell combo from The North Face. The Kichatna Jacket (read the review here (http://wp.me/p14X6I-TZ)) and their counterpart, the Kichatna Bibs (http://www.thenorthface.co.uk/tnf-uk-en/men-s-kichatna-bib/p88062.html). I concluded that the Kichatna Jacket was a great all round ski mountaineering jacket, so what about the Bibs?

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/p1080155.jpg?w=388&h=217) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/p1080155.jpg)The North Face Kichatna Bibs: great fit and articulation for skiing. Well, The North Face say that the: “Men’s Kichatna Bib is a technical, ski mountaineering bib pant in Gore-Tex Pro Shell for backcountry missions.”

So let’s have a look at the features. The Kichatna bibs are a fully waterproof, windproof and breathable bib pant designed for ski mountaineering and ski touring in harsh weather. They are made using 40D 105 g/m² 100% nylon GORE-TEX® Pro Shell ripstop, with a micro grid ripstop woven backer on the main areas and a tougher

80D 150 g/m²100% nylon GORE-TEX® Pro Shell plain weave with a micro grid ripstop woven backer, on the seat and knees.

The bib/body part is manufactured in 225 g/m² 85% polyester, 15% elastane double knit with FlashDry™, meaning it is flexible and breathable as well as quick drying. It does offer a bit of weather protection to your core area, however there is no real need to produce this part in a hard shell fabric as it would compromise breathabilty, and your jacket protects this area anyway.

I found the bib to be very comfortable, fitting closely and not rucking up or being excessively bulky. It worked very well with my other layers. The low profile, laminated zippered pocket was great for keeping my car key secured. The polyester/elastane bib fabric stretches down to waist level and this close fitting bib negates the need for a belt. It was very secure when coupled with the braces and I never felt like the trousers were falling down. Not having a belt meant that there was no excess bulk around the waist and this was really noticeable when wearing a climbing harness.

In terms of fit, the Kichatna Bibs were great. I am 5 feet 9 inches tall, weigh 65kg and have a 30 inch waist with a regular inside leg. I tested a pair in size small and could probably not have asked for more if they had been designed specifically for me! TNF do not offer different leg lengths though so others may find that the fit is not so appealing, but it’s all about trying them on and finding out what works for you.

The cut of the leg on the Kichatna Bibs is great for skiing. It has great articulation meaning the trouser legs move with you, not against you and the hem and internal gaiter easily fit over ski boots. This is aided by the zipper on the gaiter (better than velcro or press studs in my opinion, although perhaps heavier) and also the outer leg zips which stretch up as far as the hips. Whilst the full length zippers allowed the bibs to be ventilated easily and also put on and taken off while wearing ski boots, they did not allow me to answer the more serious call of nature very easily, particularly when wearing a climbing harness! The zippered fly was fine for less serious calls, but I would like to see a glove friendly tab as standard on a £320 bib pant.

The cut of the Kichatna Bibs was also fine for climbing although a bit roomier round the calf than I would look for in an out and out climbing pant. This is a compromise though as the Kichatna Bibs are trying to touch many bases, with climbing, skiing and general mountaineering, and they do this very well.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/diptic.jpg?w=388&h=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/diptic.jpg)The North Face Kichatna Bibs: great for climbing too, although roomier around the lower leg than I would want if this was an out and out climbing pant. Note the kick patch reinforcement. The Kichatna Bibs have a 190 g/m² 72% nylon,28% Kevlar® schoeller®-keprotec® reinforcement around the cuffs and this has done a good job of protecting the area covered by this particular fabric. However I have found that I have managed to slice the area around the ankles that is not reinforced (this may be down to my skiing ability!) and it would be nice to see the reinforcement stretch all the way around the lower leg, although I suppose this would be a more ski specific feature and add extra weight.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/p1080371.jpg?w=388&h=203) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/p1080371.jpg)The North Face Kichatna Bibs coupled with the Kichatna Jacket offer great weather protection for ski mountaineering. Here Kev gets ready to ski off from the Requin Hut, Chamonix. A couple of other things I like on the Kichatna Bibs are the pockets, which are low bulk and don’t interfere with a harness. They also have glove friendly zipper tabs. Finally, the gaiters are equipped with tie down loops so you can add your own under boot elastics should you wish to.

So, to conclude, the Kichatna Bibs are a great pair of ski mountaineering pants offering full weather protection in the harshest conditions. They are probably a little too much for Spring ski touring as I’d be more likely to wear a softshell trouser, but the side zips certainly offer adequate ventilation. I particularly like the low profile bib and waist, as well as the leg cut for skiing. They work fine for climbing but are not an out and out climbing pant. A drop seat and extra cuff reinforcement would be two key updates for me. Team them up with the Kichatna Jacket (review here (http://wp.me/p14X6I-TZ)) for full on storm protection.


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Title: Haglöfs Triton II Hood – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on March 01, 2014, 10:09:36 pm
Haglöfs Triton II Hood – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/02/27/haglofs-triton-ii-hood-climbing-gear-review/)
27 February 2014, 12:06 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/haglc3b6fs_logo_basic-black-on-white.jpg?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/haglc3b6fs_logo_basic-black-on-white.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/haglofs-triton-ii-hood.png?w=272&h=339) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/haglofs-triton-ii-hood.png) CGR tests the new all terrain, 3 season mountain fleece from Haglöfs
The perfect three season mid layer, created from an interesting mix of materials. Provides excellent performance for all demanding mountain adventures.
 Performance ****

Style*****

Value****

We here at CGR are fans of the Swedish company Haglöfs, I remember testing a very early softshell way back when they had just started importing product into the UK. I was impressed with the workmanship and performance.

The Haglöfs Triton II Hood (http://www.haglofs.com/en-US/products/clothing/activities/mountaineering/men/triton_ii_hood_en-us.aspx) didn’t disappoint, although it is marketed as a three season fleece, I’ve been using it throughout (the admittedly rubbish) winter for all my mountain activities, from rock climbing to winter climbing.

The fabrics are a combination Polartec PowerStretch Pro and Polartec Thermal Pro. These are known performers and most climber and mountaineers will have used jackets with these materials before.

The PowerStretch panels ranged from the well fitted hood, over the shoulders and down the arms. It also stretched from under the armpits, down and around the waist area. So all the areas that were going to be stretched for climbing were made using the very stretchy PowerStretch – this made for great freedom of movement when reaching up for those distant holds or that blob of ice.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/triton-1.jpg?w=272&h=362) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/triton-1.jpg)The Haglofs Triton II hood was snug and fitted well under a helmet. The sleeves were articulated to further enhance the movement and the sleeve ends were finished with thumb loops. I like thumbloops, I like to have them on when the approach is just warm enough to not need gloves but the breeze is enough to chill your hands. They also, without doubt, help keep my hands warm in cold weather when deployed with gloves. So a real plus point as far as I was concerned. The design was neat and the crossover minimised the actual hole size and the sleeve ends were double stitched to help keep the sleeve tight to the wrist.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/haglofs-triton.jpg?w=272&h=362) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/haglofs-triton.jpg)Great freedom of movement for rock climbing. The fit was very athletic and body hugging which was great as I used it mostly as a midlayer that was worn under a hardshell, I used it with the very athletic Haglöfs Spire jacket and this was a great combination. The Haglofs Triton II Hood  (http://www.haglofs.com/en-US/products/clothing/activities/mountaineering/men/triton_ii_hood_en-us.aspx)also had three pockets: two handwarmer and one stretchy chest pocket. The handwarmer pockets were fully accessible with a harness on so were great for stuffing gloves and a hat into, they had glove friendly zip tags that were bartacked for extra duarbility. The small chest pocket was made from a stretch material that had a laminated coating to make it more durable – it was big enough for some food bars, a phone or a small camera.

The hood was great, it fitted really snug and worked well under a helmet. As it was made from Powerstetch I had a full range of head movement. It zipped up to fully enclose my mouth and nose. The outside of the mouth area was laminated and had laser cut ventilation holes in it to help dispel goggle fogging. I was sceptical but it did actually work on the occasion I did using it – getting off The Ben in blizzard conditions. This feature would work really well in ski touring/mountaineering when you would be wearing goggles all day and it was well thought out.

All the zips were YKK coil zips that all worked well, the tags were glove friendly. They were bartacked in strategic places. The placket (the windguard that works behind the zip) was in the same laminated material as the chest pocket and mouth guard and worked brilliantly, it never got in the way of zip use or got caught. The large and easy to use hanging loop was on the outside which made it easy to hang in the drying room.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/triton-approach.jpg?w=272&h=362) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/triton-approach.jpg)The Polartec fabrics were good for approaches, drying out quickly for the route. The rest of the Haglöfs Triton II Hood   (http://www.haglofs.com/en-US/products/clothing/activities/mountaineering/men/triton_ii_hood_en-us.aspx)was made with nice and warm Polartec Thermal Pro, this is a great midlayer fleece material that was warm, durable and ventilated well. I could get quite sweaty in it on the approach and it dried out really quickly under a hardshell. It remained comfortable all day long whether I wore it for winter action, rock climbing in January or hiking and running.

The Haglöfs Triton II Hood   (http://www.haglofs.com/en-US/products/clothing/activities/mountaineering/men/triton_ii_hood_en-us.aspx)has quickly become my winter staple and now that spring is approaching I can’t see it coming off any time soon. I’ve used it for all my mountain activities and now that my MIA working season is approaching I’ll be using it for that too.

Finally, it’s easy to balk at the price tag for these types of performance fleece  (a quick internet search will bring the SRP down) but you have to remember these products are superbly made, designed to perform and will last years and are often more vestatile than a softshell and so it has been with the Haglöfs Triton II Hood .

SRP £140.00

Stockists

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Title: Tenaya Oasi – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on March 02, 2014, 12:00:14 pm
Tenaya  Oasi – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/03/02/tenaya-oasi-climbing-gear-review/)
2 March 2014, 9:36 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/tenaya-logo-redblog-size.jpg?w=310&h=96) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/tenaya-logo-redblog-size.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/tenaya-oasi.jpg?w=310&h=233) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/tenaya-oasi.jpg) CGR reviewer Katie reviews the latest performance climbing shoe from Spanish company Tenaya
Designed to achieve the highest levels of performance, the Oasi is exceptionally comfortable yet offers incredible precision and responsiveness, making rock climbing feel easier and more intuitive.
Performance *****

Quality****

Value for money *****

Six weeks ago I received the Tenaya Oasi  (http://www.tenaya.net/producto-detalle.php?nIdProducto=50&nSubFam=1)to review, a top end precision climbing shoe worn by non other than Alex Magos, well I could probably stop the review there…but I won’t.

I’ve been pretty keen to try this shoe since it was first brought out; Tenayas fit me well, slim fit and a low volume heel; the Oasi has a higher heel but it doesn’t seem to be uncomfortable in the way other shoes are.

I’ll start with the sizing simply because it’s a little mad!  Now my shoe size is smallish a size 4uk and the smallest I’ve gone in a climbing shoe is 3.5uk in the Scarpa Instinct, but the Tenaya Oasi’s  (http://www.tenaya.net/producto-detalle.php?nIdProducto=50&nSubFam=1)have taken me one further; I’ve been wearing them in a wopping 2.5uk!  This is not because I like to crush my feet, they just size them big.  So just bare that in mind, general rule with them is to go one size down from normal tech shoe size.  This is not the case for other Tenayas so don’t go with this as a rule for all.

Sizes go from 2-13uk with mid sizes as well.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/tenaya-oasi-bouldering.png?w=388&h=217) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/tenaya-oasi-bouldering.png)Tenaya Oasi – a great fit for performance. Next up is the lacing system, technical name Draxtor PAT system , we’ll call it Velcro.  There are two thin Velcro straps that diagonally fasten across the front of the shoe.  It’s an okay system, nothing really mind blowing, they seem a little flimsy so I’m not sure how they’ll last but right now they’re solid.  As the straps are quite thin you have to make sure you strap them up properly or they  just come off.They can also be used as slipper so the lacing is optional really.

The material they use is Microfiber, with a cotton lining, so little stretch or smell should occur; they have a lycra tongue which feels nice and snug when on.

The sole is Vibram XS Grip 3.5mm which I find a really great combo; not to soft not too hard, long lasting and sticky enough when it counts.  Thin enough to feel what you’re doing but with structure thanks to the SRX dynamics (sole adjusts with movement, tightening up etc).

The shoe itself fits like a glove, I’ll be honest in saying they’re blumin’ hard to get on, but when they are they feel like a perfectly formed precision sock, and they’re as light as a feather (340grs).

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/tenaya-oasi-hooking.png?w=388&h=217) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/tenaya-oasi-hooking.png)The snug fitting heel was great for hooking. The heel is incredible, it doesn’t budge an inch, and this isn’t because the shoe’s really tight, it just fits amazingly well, and that’s all I want from a good heel, I want to trust it, with the Oasi I don’t even think about it, It’s a bit like going bare foot and knowing your heel isn’t going to slid away because it’s attached.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/tenaya-oasi-toe-profile.png?w=388&h=291) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/tenaya-oasi-toe-profile.png)The toe profile made for precision footwork. The toe is just as good, I’ve used the word ‘precise’ quite a lot in this review already, and I’ll probably use it more, as it’s the perfect word to describe them.  Great edges and a comfortable toe box, my toes have been a little uncomfortable but the shoe is wearing in well and it’s only been 6 weeks, so I’m expecting good things to come.

I’ve been wearing the shoe indoors and out to get a good feel for it, and it seems an all rounder.  I feel super confident indoors on small foot holds and I’m loving them on the steep stuff outside. They’re only slightly down turned so are a bit more flexible on different angles.

Come on you say, there must be a down side to these shoes, maybe the price?  Hmmm not really, at around £100.00 the Tenaya Oasi (http://www.tenaya.net/producto-detalle.php?nIdProducto=50&nSubFam=1) is as competitive as any other climbing shoe, and if someone can onsight 9a (not me) in a shoe that doesn’t costs the world and lasts longer than 4 sessions, then that should sell it for most.

Conclusion, if you haven’t already guessed, is they’re mint, well done Tenaya, a great shoe, please don’t change it!

Right 9a here I come….or maybe I should try 7c first.

SRP: £100.00

Stockists. (http://www.betaclimbingdesigns.com/)

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Title: Haglöfs Vojd 18 ABS Ski Pack – Ski Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on March 08, 2014, 06:00:24 pm
Haglöfs Vojd 18 ABS Ski Pack – Ski Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/03/08/haglofs-vojd-18-abs-ski-pack-ski-gear-review/)
8 March 2014, 12:44 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/haglc3b6fs_logo_basic-white-on-black.jpg?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/haglc3b6fs_logo_basic-white-on-black.jpg)(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/3380082hw_fw13_vojdabs181.png?w=388&h=483) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/3380082hw_fw13_vojdabs181.png)

This winter I’ve been lucky enough to be able to test the Vojd 18 ABS Ski Pack from Haglöfs. I’ve been even luckier as I’ve not had to deploy the airbag! Performance *****

Quality*****

Value for money ****

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/p1080121.jpg?w=388&h=217) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/p1080121.jpg)Testing the Haglöfs VOJD 18 ABS Ski Pack in La Grave. Air Bag rucksack technology is designed to aid skiers and snowboarders in the event of being caught in an avalanche. They feature a gas cartridge which when triggered, deploys each airbag which expands out of each side of the pack, the idea being it makes you bigger thus increasing your chances of staying on the surface of the avalanche. There are those who are for and those who are against these sorts of backpack, but I feel that coupled with knowledge and good judgement, I would rather ski with one than without. It is definitely not a substitute for adequate knowledge and good judgement though, and should never be seen as such. There are also some interesting statistics (http://utahavalanchecenter.org/blog-avalanche-airbag-effectiveness-something-closer-truth) courtesy of the Utah Avalanche Center that are worth reading when making your own choice.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/img_3800.jpg?w=388&h=217) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/img_3800.jpg)Anybody skiing outside of a patrolled area needs to make sure they have the knowledge, skills, judgement and equipment to keep themselves safe. An ABS ski pack is not an alternative to skills and experience, but just like a transceiver, shovel and probe, it could help save your life. Here the author tests his Haglöfs VOJD 18 ABS Ski Pack in the off piste heaven of La Grave, France. I’ve used the Vojd 18 Pack for lift served off piste around Chamonix and La Grave, I’ve used it on glaciated terrain and I’ve also taken it on day long ski tours.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/p1020770.jpg?w=388&h=291) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/p1020770.jpg)Using the Haglöfs VOJD 18 ABS Ski Pack on a day tour in the Aiguilles Rouges, France. So, what about the Vojd 18 (pronounced Void apparently)? What is it like? Well first of all, in the past these types of rucksack have generally been pretty heavy. To begin with, ABS’s in-house packs were basically solely designed to house the airbags (the rucksack features being a bit of a second thought) and it is only recently, with partnerships forming with other dedicated outdoor brands, that more thought has gone into the actual pack design itself. And this is definitely noticeable with the Vojd 18.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/p1080370.jpg?w=388&h=217) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/p1080370.jpg)Outside the Requin Hut after skiing the classic Grand Envers route from the Aiguille du Midi, France. Note ice axe neatly attached on the outside. The Vojd 18 ABS Pack features 2 internal airbags which deploy out of the side of the pack when you pull the release handle. This can be seen more clearly in the video below:

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/2hw_fw13_vojdabs30detail.png?w=388&h=491) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/2hw_fw13_vojdabs30detail.png)Haglöfs VOJD 18 ABS Ski Pack – side airbags, fully deployed. Looking at what is available out there, and comparing capacity/weight, the Haglöfs claim that their Vojd 18 ABS Pack, is one of the lightest on the market, certainly appears to be correct. I don’t have a whole list of comparative statistics but at 2.42kg (this is without the gas canister) the 18 litre pack does not feel particularly heavy on my back and the low profile design means it gives a comfortable carry whilst skiing and doesn’t interfere with getting on and off chair lifts too much either.

I don’t like skiing with a big heavy pack on. The Vojd 18 suited me perfectly. It is small enough to take care of your shovel, probe, spare gloves and other bits and bobs for a day of lift served, off piste skiing. But is also big enough to carry the extras required for day tours, skiing on glaciers etc, although admittedly you do need to pack it carefully if you are taking skins, crampons, rope, spare clothes, rescue kit and all the other back country essentials. The position of the canister does cause some dead space beneath it and you need to be clever to fill these spaces when packing, if you are to effectively utilise the full 18 litre volume.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/p1080178.jpg?w=388&h=688) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/p1080178.jpg)The Haglöfs VOJD 18 ABS Ski Pack, showing the shovel and probe being carried. The internal shovel pocket worked well but I did feel that the zipper closing on the main compartment interfered a little with storage of my shovel handle and probe. The tips of which, pressed against the inside of the zipper. Like I say, this isn’t the biggest pack in the world but with careful packing you can reap the rewards of a versatile and low profile ABS ski pack that is comfortable to carry and relatively light. Interestingly, if you do require a bit of extra space, Haglöfs make a 30 litre version too and this actually weighs in not much heavier, at just over 2.6kg without a canister.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/2hw_fw13_vojdabs30detail9.png?w=388&h=483) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/2hw_fw13_vojdabs30detail9.png)Haglöfs VOJD 18 ABS Ski Pack – internal detail. Other features I like on the Vojd 18 ABS Pack are the ice axe holder which is very simple and secure and also keeps the blade neatly stored away. The front zipped pocket with key clip is great for storing bits and bobs like keys, sunblock and change but I did often wish it was ever so slightly bigger. It’s all a balance though.

The waist belt felt sturdy and comfortable and the zippered pockets were large enough to keep snacks and a lens cloth in. The metal buckles worked easily, were reassuring, secure and didn’t freeze up. The crotch strap was easy to secure and adjust and this meant that there was a lot less danger of the pack being pulled up and over your head if the bags were deployed!

The shoulder straps felt comfortable and low profile, adjusted easily and the chest strap was secure and adjustable both up/down and side to side.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/p1020872.jpg?w=388&h=291) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/p1020872.jpg)Haglöfs VOJD 18 ABS Ski Pack – carrying skis on the short bootpack at the end of the Vallee Blanche. Carrying skis worked well, with a top and bottom strap facilitating a vertical carry system. I used this system numerous times and it was easy to set up and secure. The fabric also stood up well, to abrasions from ski edges and other sharp objects. Additional straps also come with the Vojd if you wish to use it to carry a snowboard.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/3380072hw_fw13_vojdabs30detail4.png?w=388&h=483) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/3380072hw_fw13_vojdabs30detail4.png)Haglöfs VOJD 18 ABS Ski Pack ski carry system. Finally, and perhaps the most important thing, is the deployment handle for the airbags. This is positioned on the left shoulder strap and is easy to access. You can also adjust the height that the handle sits at. The handle then sits under a velcro strap which is designed to stop you pulling it accidentally. I did see a lot of people skiing around with their strap over their handle, and couldn’t help thinking that they might struggle to then deploy the bag in an emergency situation! I generally would keep the handle secured on the lifts but would remove the strap before I started skiing downhill!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/p1080174.jpg?w=388&h=581) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/p1080174.jpg)Haglöfs VOJD 18 ABS Ski Pack – release handle on the left shoulder strap (secured whilst on the ski lift). So to conclude, the Haglöfs Vojd 18 ABS Ski Pack is a well made pack that is low profile and comfortable to carry whilst skiing. With careful packing it is big enough for most day long off piste adventures/tours but Haglöfs do a 30 litre version for those who take more kit or just like more space. The Vojd 18 is relatively light for an ABS pack and has the right balance of space, size and features. The main compartment zip is a little small. Overall, a great pack that I will continue to use on all my day long off piste ski adventures.


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Title: Arc’teryx Nuclei Hoody – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on March 11, 2014, 12:00:34 am
Arc’teryx Nuclei Hoody – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/03/10/arcteryx-nuclei-hoody-climbing-gear-review/)
10 March 2014, 6:07 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx1.jpg?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx1.jpg)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/f13-nuclei-hoody-saguaro-green_lr.jpg?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/f13-nuclei-hoody-saguaro-green_lr.jpg) CGR tests the über light belay jacket from Arc’teryx…
Lightweight, compact, trim-fitting belay jacket with a high warmth-to-weight ratio.
Performance ****

Style****

Value for Money****

We’ve reviewed several insulated shells from Arc’teryx; we’ve reviewed the Atom LT jacket  (http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=2208)for UKC and the Atom SV Hoody  (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/02/22/climbing-gear-review-arcteryx-atom-sv-hoody-belay-jacket-winter-jacket/)for CGR and we’ve found them both excellent, so does the new Arc’teryx Nuclei  (http://www.arcteryx.com/Product.aspx?language=EN&gender=Mens&model=Nuclei-Hoody)lightweight belay jacket live up to expectations?

Firstly the word Nuclei: small, compact and lightweight and it certainly fits the bill. If space in your pack or weight off your back is an issue the Nuclei will fit your spec perfectly as it’s certainly light. It feels really light, in fact one of the lightest insulated jackets I’ve ever used. The stated weight was 285g and on the new super duper digital CGR scales the Nuclei weighed in at 297g with the stuffsack and 290g without. So pretty accurate and in any case it certainly felt very light both in pack and on.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/arcteryx-nuclei-on-scales.jpg?w=388&h=291) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/arcteryx-nuclei-on-scales.jpg)The Arc’teryx Nuclei was super light and compact. The shell material is made from an Arc’teryx proprietary material called Airetica, this a tightly woven and incredibly light Pertex-like shell material which is only 34g/m2 . It felt very soft and the DWR did repel a light shower and snow. It did, however begin to ’wet out’ after 5 minutes of steady rain when the jacket became damp with the combination of sweat and condensation (it’s important to point out that even a hardshell will do this).  It dries out very quick (which is what you are after as no jacket is fully 100% waterproof) and the DWR was brought back into condition with a quick, half hour tumble dry on a medium setting. So very easy to maintain, and as stated before in our belay jacket article (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/12/04/article-belay-jackets-a-cgr-buyers-guide/): synthetic insulation is much easier to wash than down. The Airetica was perfectly windproof and at no time did I feel cold on mild windy days.

The insulation was provided by the established Coreloft which we looked at in detail in the Atom SV Hoody review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/02/22/climbing-gear-review-arcteryx-atom-sv-hoody-belay-jacket-winter-jacket/). The jacket provides 80g/m2 in the torso area and 60g/m2 in the arms and hood, this provides a good amount of insulation whilst maintaining flexibility for climbing and hiking. The jacket provided enough warmth for rock climbing belays and bouldering days and also provided warmth for winter climbing in, as a mid layer. So a good combination of insulation weights giving mobility and warmth. The fact that the jacket doesn’t have sewn through baffles adds to the warmth and increases wind proof ability.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/nuclei-mixed-climbing.jpg?w=388&h=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/nuclei-mixed-climbing.jpg)The Airetica material was tough enough for a little bit of abuse. The cut was great for climbing and hiking in. It is definitely athletic in fit so do not expect it to be a standard type of belay jacket that you throw over all you winter kit for belaying. In fact I would not recommend it for that activity at all, the Atom SV hoody is a much better option or if it’s even colder then the Dually Belay Parka  (http://arcteryx.com/product.aspx?language=EN&gender=mens&category=Insulated_Jackets&model=Dually-Belay-Parka)is even better as it’s a full on belay parka. For more information on the different types of belay jacket read our Buyer’s Guide. So I would say that the Arc’teryx Nuclei  (http://www.arcteryx.com/Product.aspx?language=EN&gender=Mens&model=Nuclei-Hoody)is a great belay jacket for rock climbing and brilliant for hiking but as a winter climbing jacket it’s much better suited as a climbing layer. For climbing in, the cut was as excellent as you would expect from the Arc’teryx designers. Well cut with little rise when you are extended on those reachy moves. It fitted well under a harness but I would have liked the pockets to have been a little higher on the torso as the pockets were not fully accessible. However you do have to remember the jacket is not exclusively for climbing in and has a more versatile application.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/arcteryx-nulcei-rock-climbing.jpg?w=388&h=291) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/arcteryx-nulcei-rock-climbing.jpg)The Arc’teryx Nuclei was great to rock climb in on those cold windy days. The YKK zips all worked great and were no trouble at all, as usual I would have liked to have seen more glove friendly tabs but they worked OK with thin gloves on. With features cut to the bone there were only two pockets and the lack of an inside or chest pocket was a real drawback for this jacket (although it does make the jacket lighter). There was a tiny internal pocket but this was only big enough for the stow bag to go in and little use for anything else. This, I felt was a serious drawback on what is a brilliant jacket as a third pocket is so useful in climbing situations – food bars, gloves, camera, walkie talkie are all items that I can carry and want access to when climbing. Of course I can, and do, just stuff them inside the jacket, but sometimes I want a little more security than that. And do remember that the side pockets have restricted access when wearing a harness.

The hood was great to have on and worked very well with a peaked hat in hiking/approach situations. It fitted under a helmet very well but was very tight over a helmet, you couldn’t really climb very well when it was used like this. But in the situations I used it as a climbing layer with the hood under the helmet it worked very well. The hood worked very well with a peaked cap and kept any shower off my face.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/arcteryx-nucei-under-helmet.jpg?w=388&h=291) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/arcteryx-nucei-under-helmet.jpg)The hood fitted well under a helmet and was OK over it too. The gusseted sleeves and articulated elbows worked well with little rise when climbing and the cuffs were fine for pulling over powerstretch gloves or ice climbing gloves with a wrist closure. The waist hem had a single cord adjuster on the right hand side, it worked well enough in the field but was a little fiddly with gloves on, no big deal though. The small internal pocket held a tiny stuffsack into which the jacket fitted to make it extremely compact for travel. I haven’t used it climbing as I’ve often been wearing it. The small attachment point could have been bigger, again this all about being glove friendly for belaying in on the stance.

The Arc’teryx Nuclei  (http://www.arcteryx.com/Product.aspx?language=EN&gender=Mens&model=Nuclei-Hoody)is a great 3 season belay jacket that comes in men’s and women’s versions. It would be suitable for rock climbing, hiking, alpine climbing and great as an all day piece for ice climbing and gnarly alpine routes. The quality is five stars, as you would expect from Arc’teryx and it will be great for all of your climbing adventures except for  the coldest conditions. Oh, and have I mentioned it’s light…very light…very, very light. There will be many other brands looking at this jacket to see how they can lighten up their own range.

SRP £190

Stockists. (http://www.arcteryx.com/Home.aspx?language=EN)

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Title: The North Face Women’s Alloy Jacket – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on March 11, 2014, 12:00:32 pm
The North Face Women’s Alloy Jacket – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/03/11/the-north-face-womens-alloy-jacket-climbing-gear-review/)
11 March 2014, 8:34 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/tnf-logo-e1382943588102.jpg?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/tnf-logo-e1382943588102.jpg)(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/000_lo_a0nv-d1q-0.jpg?w=388&h=453) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/000_lo_a0nv-d1q-0.jpg)Earlier this year Kasia gave her first impressions (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/01/20/first-impressions-the-north-face-womens-alloy-jacket-and-trousers-climbing-gear-review/) on the Women’s Alloy Jacket and Pants from The North Face. She’s since had more time to test the products thoroughly and you can now read her full thoughts on the jacket below… The North Face Women’s Alloy jacket is designed for ski touring and ski mountaineering. I put it through its paces during a ski holiday in Chamonix which had a good balance of glorious blue sky mountain days as well as a couple of full on snow days.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/p1080486.jpg?w=388&h=217) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/p1080486.jpg)Kasia using The North Face Women’s Alloy Jacket whilst ski touring in the Aiguille Rouges, Chamonix. As mentioned in my first impressions review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/01/20/first-impressions-the-north-face-womens-alloy-jacket-and-trousers-climbing-gear-review/) of the jacket and matching trousers I love the material and design because it’s soft, comfortable and practical all in one. The jacket only comes in the one colour ‘Antique Moss Green’ – though I’d say it’s more yellow than green!

The jacket itself is constructed from panels of different materials, with the intention of it being waterproof and hardwearing on the hood and shoulders/top of arms and then more breathable in the back and underarm sections. Certain areas also feel a bit more padded due to it having parts that are lined – hood, shoulders, top of arms and lower back. This adds to that soft and cosy feeling.  Panels of mesh lining can be found down the centre of the back to increase airflow and at the front of the jacket which makes up the lining of the large pockets – this design feature helps to circulate air when the pockets are left unzipped.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/p1080471.jpg?w=388&h=688) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/p1080471.jpg)The North Face Women’s Alloy Jacket – warm enough for short stops without adding extra layers. In The North Face techno speak “gender specific body mapped design delivers waterproofness and high breathability where needed. TNF Apex Universal soft shell body is highly breathable to meet aerobic back country demands. Durable, waterproof HyVent fabric on the hood and shoulders protect from the elements.”

So with this mix of materials in all the right places how did it perform on the mountain?

Whilst in Chamonix we skied on and off piste and spent some time ski touring. On the snowy days, even when the snow felt quite wet the jacket seemed to perform well and kept me dry and comfortable. As long as I kept moving I felt warm enough on the cold days with just a base layer under the jacket. When things got cooler, for example when we stopped for a break or slowed things down a notch or two, I was certainly glad that I’d packed a primaloft insulation layer. On warmer, sunny days on our Chamonix trip I found the jacket was too hot for me, and with a rucksack covering the ‘aerobic back’ not as breathable as I would have liked it to be. So when ski touring on a blue sky day I had to have the jacket tied around my waist. Whether without a backback the jacket would have worked better I’m not sure as there aren’t many scenarios when I’m out on the hill without a pack of some sort. So I would recommend the jacket for colder, active days.

To keep out the wind there are some drawer cords for the bottom of the jacket in each pocket and these are easy enough to adjust. There is no snow skirt but I didn’t find this to be an issue. As mentioned in my previous ‘mini’ review the pockets are certainly fit for purpose and are harness friendly. The hood is also adjustable so whilst it fits over my helmet it can also be nice and snug over a beanie.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/p1080548.jpg?w=388&h=217) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/p1080548.jpg)The North Face Women’s Alloy Jacket – perfect for a descent of the Vallee Blanche on a cold, crisp, blue sky day! Overview

I love the feel, cut and simple, functional features of the jacket. Whilst I haven’t yet tried the jacket for ice climbing I’m happy with the fit and cut and feel confident that it would be a nice jacket to climb in as well. It was certainly comfortable enough to ski in. Depending on your own ‘heating’ system you can easily layer up accordingly with this jacket and by having a medium sized jacket I could wear a primaloft layer underneath. I quite often wore The North Face Thermoball vest either under for those colder days or over as a quick warm up fix in order to help keep my core warm. So keep your layering options in mind when choosing the right size for you, you’ll know yourself whether you’re a warm or cold person. Whilst the jacket kept me dry on the damp snow Chamonix days I wouldn’t recommend this jacket for a rainy Scottish winter’s day it’s not made for that purpose and will eventually wet through. From a packability point of view it’s not a light and compact option but this didn’t bother me in my chosen uses of the jacket.


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Title: Black Diamond/Pieps JetForce Avalanche Airbag Technology – Ski Gear News
Post by: comPiler on March 11, 2014, 12:00:33 pm
Black Diamond/Pieps JetForce Avalanche Airbag Technology – Ski Gear News (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/03/11/black-diamondpieps-jetforce-avalanche-airbag-technology-ski-gear-news/)
11 March 2014, 10:02 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/jetforce.jpg?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/jetforce.jpg)

A REVOLUTION IN AIRBAG TECHNOLOGY

JetForce is the first Avalanche Airbag Technology to use jet-fan inflation, a breakthrough system that draws air from an unlimited source: the atmosphere. Watch this video about the JetForce from Powder Magazine:

 

Testable, re-deployable and travel-friendly, Jet-Force is the result of a multiyear collaboration between Black Diamond and PIEPS, two leaders in avalanche safety innovation. Combining Black Diamond’s expertise in industrial engineering and backcountry travel, JetForce features countless improvements over existing airbag technologies, from an intuitive deployment trigger to a proprietary tear-resistant and easily re-packable airbag fabric. To design Jet-Force’s custom electronics, Black Diamond turned to PIEPS, leaders in digital avalanche transceivers.

PIEPS applied their digital expertise to the engineering of JetForce’s electrical systems, from the ‘good-

to-go’ self-diagnosis on startup to the system-status LED monitors mounted in the trigger.

Launching in Fall 2014, JetForce will be available in three packs from Black Diamond (Pilot 11L, Halo 28L and Saga 40L cargo volume), two packs from PIEPS (Tour Rider 24L and Tour Pro 34L cargo volume) and one pack from POC (Thorax 11L).

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Title: Osprey Momentum 22 Rucksack – Commuter Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on March 12, 2014, 06:00:18 pm
Osprey Momentum 22 Rucksack – Commuter Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/03/12/osprey-momentum-22-rucksack-commuter-gear-review/)
12 March 2014, 2:02 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/unnamed.jpg?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/unnamed.jpg)(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/unnamed1.jpg?w=388&h=289) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/unnamed1.jpg) Here at CGR it’s not all play, play, play! This winter we’ve been testing out a great commuter pack from Osprey, the Momentum 22… Performance *****

Features*****

Value for money ****

Osprey say: “The Momentum 22 was born to commute. It’s what we consider to be the perfect balance between performance and organisation, making it the ideal journey to work partner. The spacermesh harness and AirScape™ back system provide a carrying platform that is stable and well ventilated, perfect for hot summer rides. A separate laptop and tablet compartment keeps your electronics quick to hand and easy to access. Our unique Lidlock™ attachment provides the perfect place to quickly stow your bike helmet. In wet weather and heavy traffic the built in high-visibility rain cover provides protection, with the added safety feature of a bike-light attachment point. The simple but effective 20mm removable waist strap will keep your pack close and tight. The Momentum 22 also conforms to all EU carry-on size restrictions, providing you with a great travel pack when swapping pedal power for wing power.“

 

A departure from the usual CGR review, the Osprey Momentum 22 is aimed at those of us who want a more functional way to carry and protect all our necessary docs and equipment on our commute to work. Whether going by car, train, bicycle, running or walking, the Momentum 22 has been my go to, work pack this winter.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/photo.jpg?w=388&h=520) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/photo.jpg)Osprey Momentum 22 on a cycle commute. Note the helmet holder for when you’ve arrived at your destination. I work as a teacher and I usually take a laptop, some paperwork, stationary and some books to and from work on a daily basis. I also find the Momentum 22 a great pack for using as hand luggage on trips abroad, protecting my laptop, camera, external hard drive, docs and guidebooks.

I much prefer a rucksack over a briefcase or courier style shoulder bag for my commute to work. Granted it isn’t quite as smart but it’s way more versatile. If I cycle or run to work having a bag that carries well is crucial and the Momentum 22 carries brilliantly with comfortable shoulder straps, breathable mesh back and sturdy chest and waist straps.

As you’d expect from Osprey the pack is extremely well made and also incredibly well featured. Internal sleeves protect my tablet and laptop and there is also a separate document sleeve for keeping everything well organised. I like the fact that there is sufficient padding to protect your valuable items too. All the main compartments are accessed via high quality zippers which are easy to use with gloves on and the zippered pocket on the shoulder strap with the extendable key attachment clip is a really nice touch.

Osprey are sticklers for attention to detail on there packs and I really like the neat features such as LED bike light attachment point, internal organisation pockets and reflective graphics. The bright yellow rain cover is also perfect, stowing easily in the base when not needed but being really simple to deploy when it is.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/photo1.jpg?w=388&h=520) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/photo1.jpg)Osprey Momentum 22 – hi-vis removeable rain cover, brilliant for our wettest winter on record! As the nights are starting to get lighter I have been using the pack whilst cycling and have found it to be a very comfortable and stable carry. I really like the simple helmet attachment for when I have transferred from my bike to being on foot. The pack has a hydration port but it also has 2 mesh wand pockets with side compression which are useful for carrying water bottles or stuffing a light rain jacket.

I have carried the Momentum 22 whilst running as well and although I don’t really like to run with a heavy pack on I found it to be pretty stable and the Airscape mesh back panel to be amply breathable.

 

So, to conclude, the Osprey Momentum 22 is a superb pack for the active desk jockey or anybody wanting a reliable, functional and comfortable method of transporting their belongings to and from work, be it by train, foot, bike or car. Good work Osprey!

 

 

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Title: Salewa Pro Guide – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on March 13, 2014, 12:00:18 pm
Salewa Pro Guide – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/03/13/salewa-pro-guide-climbing-gear-review/)
13 March 2014, 7:34 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/salewa-logo-resized.png?w=310&h=222) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/salewa-logo-resized.png)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/proguide.jpg?w=272&h=272) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/proguide.jpg)Dave tests out the top notch winter mountain boot from Italian company Salewa
A classic upper design, with an indestructible 3mm Perwanger leather and a GORE-TEX® Insulated performance lining combined with the most innovative technologies, such as the only adjustable sole system and the anatomical last with climbing toe profile.
Performance *****

Style****

Value****

Mountain boots are a very subjective item to buy, they can certainly make or break a winter climb and there have been many occasions when I’ve been virtually crippled, hobbling back to the car in foot agony.

When we were offered a pair of the Salewa Pro Guide  (http://www.salewa.com/product/mountaineering/ms+pro+guide+insulated+fit-1)boots for test I was a little uncertain as they require some in depth wear and can take some time to test properly. But I’m pleased to say I haven’t been disappointed as the boots have performed exceptionally well straight out the box.

Firstly, the boots are burly. They are built to last years, these aren’t some lightweight, disco dancing boots that are going to last a season or two. They will last for ages, made from 3mm Perwanger leather – a great leather, locally sourced and steeped in Alpine tradition since 1780! A nice touch in these globally sourced manufacturing days. At just over a kilo per boot they are, however, a little on the  heavy side. Especially if you are used to the ‘disco dancing’  lightweight boot. For a full leather boot though they feel light and I never noticed them to be overly heavy on any day I have worn them. I felt the extra few grams were well worth the extra protection the Salewa Pro Guides  (http://www.salewa.com/product/mountaineering/ms+pro+guide+insulated+fit-1)offered over lighter boots I’ve worn in the past.

They come in two fits so it is important to try on both before you buy: a medium/performance fit for technical ice and mixed climbing and the wide/insulated fit for comfort and warmth. The difference is 4mm and I tested the wide fit. I don’t have particularly wide feet and found the wide fit very comfortable and didn’t notice any movement inside the boot when I was climbing in them.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/nuclei-mixed-climbing.jpg?w=310&h=310) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/nuclei-mixed-climbing.jpg)The Salewa Pro Guide were great for technical winter climbing. The boot was further reinforced with plastic 3F inserts which we mentioned in our Firetail GTX  (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/06/09/salewa-firetail-gtx-climbing-gear-review/)review last year. This provided some extra tightening around the ankle area as well as protection against knocks. The 3D EVO tightening system had some features that are worth mentioning: all the eyelets were made from stainless steel and riveted to the boots. There were two eyelets with pulleys to help get the correct fit and a locking eyelet that had a tiny locking cam to keep the toe area. There were further locking points at the ankle and the top of the book. This gave some flexibility with the fit but I had to be careful and I soon learned that I needed two different fits for walking and climbing (this is standard stuff for most boots though).

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/salewa-pro-fit.jpg?w=310&h=233) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/salewa-pro-fit.jpg)The Guide Pro had a flexible lacing system and fitted crampons well. I had a tough, early season day on Ben Nevis and found the boots really painful on the descent, once I had stopped and readjusted the tightening system the boots were fine. The problem was that the locking cam was full of snow and ice and was difficult to release with gloves on. I found the following systems worked best for me:

Approach – loose fitting with laces tightened around the ankle area. I could walk all day in the boots with this system, it was very comfortable. I was careful not to over tighten the toe area to keep my feet nice and warm.

Climbing – tighten up the toe area (but not too tight as to cut the circulation) and cinch tight around the ankle and shin area. I use the Andy Kirkpatrick reef know method of lacing. Although the to clamp style eyelets worked well at keeping the laces in place when I was tying knots and bows.

Descent – as for climbing for technical descents and loosen off for gully descents.

Walk out – as for approach.

So a flexible system works best.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/salewa-pro-guide-approach.jpg?w=310&h=414) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/salewa-pro-guide-approach.jpg)The boots were comfortable enough for long approaches. The boots are insulated with Duratherm and were warm, there wasn’t one day this season when my feet felt cold, even on long belay sessions. The footbed insert was also insulated and easy to remove for drying out and replacement.

So how were the boots for climbing in? In short – great, I couldn’t fault them. The Salewa Pro Guide (http://www.salewa.com/product/mountaineering/ms+pro+guide+insulated+fit-1) boots have yet another feature the Flex system: a system that stiffens to the boot for steep icefall or mixed climbing. The problem here is that it needs to be adjusted using an allen key, something else you’ve got to carry and remember to use. I’ve been using the boots all season and to be honest haven’t felt the need to use it for any route I’ve done in the UK. The boots have worked perfectly well up to technical mixed grade 6 and I felt that they would perform perfectly well on all mixed climbing. On the occasion I did use it the system felt fine for climbing in but I forgot to re-adjust on the descent and that made the boots more uncomfortable for walking in as I did really notice the difference after a while. There is a nice video here from Salewa showing how the system works:

http://youtu.be/stnn3uOgtjU

I can see some benefits to this flexible system and I think the system I will adopt is to leave them in walk mode for UK winter climbing and change them to climb mode when I take an ice climbing trip or when I’m going to do a long ice route. It’s a new and novel concept that I can see real benefits to, Salewa designers and climbers have come up with a system that tries solves a real problem for climbers, but I just can’t help thinking that it’s an added complication on what can be a long and tiring day. For ice climbing with short walk-ins though sitting down for a few seconds and adjusting the boots will make a difference to the performance.

The toe box was very tough, this is an area that has let me down in the past and I like mine tough. I could happily kick steps and kick front points into ice for long periods without my big toe throbbing in agony. There is a full rand around the boot and the GoreTex lining helped keep the water and snow out.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/salewa-proguide-snow.jpg?w=310&h=414) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/salewa-proguide-snow.jpg)The deep lugs helped when descending steep snow. The sole unit was asymmetrical in design and made using a Vibram unit. The unit is fully resoleable should you need to have one fitted. The front and heel bale lips worked well and were made from tough polyeurothane plastic, I did like the way the front lip didn’t protrude at all and kept the front clean for rock climbing moves. What I really liked though were the lugs, these were very deep and offered great security when on steep snow, the fibreglass insole also helped when side stepping across a slope, this a great feature that helps differentiate the boots.

So, in conclusion the Salewa Guide Pro (http://www.salewa.com/product/mountaineering/ms+pro+guide+insulated+fit-1) boots have been great to wear: comfortable straight out the box, good to climb in, They are really warm, the tightening system offers flexibility and they should last for years (if you look after them). On the down side they can feel little heavy and you have to remember to leave the house with the allen key if you are going to use the Flex System. A nice boot though and Salewa have done a great job of trying to overcome a common problem for winter climbers. I suspect we’ll see more of them in the mountains in future.

The boots also come in a gaiter version- the Salewa Pro Gaiter (http://www.salewa.com/product/mountaineering/ms+pro+gaiter+insulated+fit-1) and the sizing is UK 6 to 12 in half sizes. Don’t forget that they come in two fits; performance and wide so do try them on in a specialist shop – I have seen them in the shops so you should be able to have them fitted professionally.

SRP £360.00

Stockists

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Title: Edelrid Orion Harness
Post by: comPiler on March 25, 2014, 12:01:01 am
Edelrid Orion Harness (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/03/24/edelrid-orion-harness-6/)
24 March 2014, 7:00 pm

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/edelrid_orion_harness.jpg?w=481&h=475)

Edelrid Orion  Performance ? ? ? ?

Durability ? ? ? ? ?

Value ? ? ? ?

Though the Edelrid Orion Harness (http://www.edelrid.de/en/Edelrid/Sports/Orion-icemint.html) is billed as an ‘all-rounder’ suited to sport or mountain use its design is slanted more toward the trad and winter climber and those with fond memories of the original Tron movie. Ample racking by way of four asymmetric gear loops and two low profile cunningly concealed ice clipper slots (which it appears they have had to label so you can find them!) should cope with most racks. What sets this harness apart is its ’3D Vent’ technology which shapes the very wide foam padding ergonomically whilst using thin webbing strips to support the foam and allow ventilation. The waist-belt is a similar width to my other harnesses but definitely more ‘shaped’ whereas the leg-loops are significantly wider.

 

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/ice_clipper_slots1.jpg?w=500&h=424)Stealth Ice Clipper Slots  

 

I found the racking more than adequate for any winter/mixed route but as always the size of your rack may determine this! The asymmetric (sloping) gear loops project outwards slightly and were easy to clip even with the usual bulk of winter kit on. Stealthily placed ice clipper slots worked well but you are limited to just the one location (between the two gear loops on each side) so be aware of this with regard to screw racking preferences. The rear of the harness includes a simple hook to drop the leg loops and a loop that would take a tag line but it’s not of ‘belay’ strength.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/tiein_area.jpg?w=375&h=500)Reinforced tie-in point In Use After fewer than I’d hoped for winter routes thanks to the miserable early season conditions the Orion has completed its test period and I’m suitably impressed, it has proved to be a comfortable and thoughtfully designed winter harness. From the first wearing it had that ‘forget you’re wearing it’ feeling that allowed you to focus on the task in hand rather than tinkering with the harness trying to finesse the fit. Both waist belt and leg loops allowed rapid first time adjustment out of the sac and didn’t need any attention till the harness was removed. The Orion remained eminently comfortable during the usual Scottish winter conditions, including the usual awkward semi-hanging belays and the hasty trudging backdown No. 4 gully to try and beat the darkness. It even had a surprise fall test on it’s first outing on Gargoyle Wall, not planned or something I’d care to repeat onto a 1 Friend in a thankfully thawing icy crack! Additionally a few drops training on the Harrogate wall confirmed the Orion’s comfort. Of course they were planned – I wouldn’t get pumped and fall off a 6b+, honest. Every time the harness felt great, no pinching or rubbing etc. The very breathable construction together with its low absorbency made the Orion comfortable both when sweating down the wall and when the moisture was coming from a miserable grey Scottish sky, in the latter case drying off almost immediately in the drying room.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/orion_in_access.jpg?w=379&h=506)Racking up below The Curtain  

In terms of durability there is little evidence of wear, and the construction appears of the highest quality, tie-in points in particular are ‘beefy’ the leg loop section having a solid plastic protector which I’ve not seen before that makes threading ropes particularly easy and completely protects the webbing from wear. This beefiness and durability does incur a slight weight penalty with the Edelerid Orion tipping the scales at approximately 430 grams (M). The only negative point I’ve come across is the springy-ness of the Orion’s construction, this structure definitely aids comfort but it can make it a battle cramming it into the smaller sac!

Addendum, going back to my standard harnesses has really emphasised how supremely the Edelrid Orion Harness really is when you have to hang when abseiling or belaying – suffice to say I’ve been somewhat spoilt now! However if you want something a little more compact check out the other harnesses in the CGR Buyer’s Guide (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/12/13/winter-climbing-harnesses-a-cgr-buyers-guide/)

Pros: high performance, comfortable and durable.

Cons: a little bulky in the springy sense.

RRP £85 (Edelrid Dealers) (http://www.edelrid.de/index.php?lang=1&cl=shops)

 

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Title: Edelrid Orion Harness – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on March 25, 2014, 12:00:25 pm
Edelrid Orion Harness – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/03/24/edelrid-orion-harness-6/)
24 March 2014, 7:00 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/edelrid_orion_harness.jpg?w=481&h=475)

Edelrid Orion  Performance ? ? ? ?

Durability ? ? ? ? ?

Value ? ? ? ?

Though the Edelrid Orion Harness (http://www.edelrid.de/en/Edelrid/Sports/Orion-icemint.html) is billed as an ‘all-rounder’ suited to sport or mountain use its design is slanted more toward the trad and winter climber and those with fond memories of the original Tron movie. Ample racking by way of four asymmetric gear loops and two low profile cunningly concealed ice clipper slots (which it appears they have had to label so you can find them!) should cope with most racks. What sets this harness apart is its ’3D Vent’ technology which shapes the very wide foam padding ergonomically whilst using thin webbing strips to support the foam and allow ventilation. The waist-belt is a similar width to my other harnesses but definitely more ‘shaped’ whereas the leg-loops are significantly wider.

 

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/ice_clipper_slots1.jpg?w=500&h=424)Stealth Ice Clipper Slots  

 

I found the racking more than adequate for any winter/mixed route but as always the size of your rack may determine this! The asymmetric (sloping) gear loops project outwards slightly and were easy to clip even with the usual bulk of winter kit on. Stealthily placed ice clipper slots worked well but you are limited to just the one location (between the two gear loops on each side) so be aware of this with regard to screw racking preferences. The rear of the harness includes a simple hook to drop the leg loops and a loop that would take a tag line but it’s not of ‘belay’ strength.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/tiein_area.jpg?w=375&h=500)Reinforced tie-in point In Use After fewer than I’d hoped for winter routes thanks to the miserable early season conditions the Orion has completed its test period and I’m suitably impressed, it has proved to be a comfortable and thoughtfully designed winter harness. From the first wearing it had that ‘forget you’re wearing it’ feeling that allowed you to focus on the task in hand rather than tinkering with the harness trying to finesse the fit. Both waist belt and leg loops allowed rapid first time adjustment out of the sac and didn’t need any attention till the harness was removed. The Orion remained eminently comfortable during the usual Scottish winter conditions, including the usual awkward semi-hanging belays and the hasty trudging backdown No. 4 gully to try and beat the darkness. It even had a surprise fall test on it’s first outing on Gargoyle Wall, not planned or something I’d care to repeat onto a 1 Friend in a thankfully thawing icy crack! Additionally a few drops training on the Harrogate wall confirmed the Orion’s comfort. Of course they were planned – I wouldn’t get pumped and fall off a 6b+, honest. Every time the harness felt great, no pinching or rubbing etc. The very breathable construction together with its low absorbency made the Orion comfortable both when sweating down the wall and when the moisture was coming from a miserable grey Scottish sky, in the latter case drying off almost immediately in the drying room.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/orion_in_access.jpg?w=379&h=506)Racking up below The Curtain  

In terms of durability there is little evidence of wear, and the construction appears of the highest quality, tie-in points in particular are ‘beefy’ the leg loop section having a solid plastic protector which I’ve not seen before that makes threading ropes particularly easy and completely protects the webbing from wear. This beefiness and durability does incur a slight weight penalty with the Edelerid Orion tipping the scales at approximately 430 grams (M). The only negative point I’ve come across is the springy-ness of the Orion’s construction, this structure definitely aids comfort but it can make it a battle cramming it into the smaller sac!

Addendum, going back to my standard harnesses has really emphasised how supremely the Edelrid Orion Harness really is when you have to hang when abseiling or belaying – suffice to say I’ve been somewhat spoilt now! However if you want something a little more compact check out the other harnesses in the CGR Buyer’s Guide (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/12/13/winter-climbing-harnesses-a-cgr-buyers-guide/)

Pros: high performance, comfortable and durable.

Cons: a little bulky in the springy sense.

RRP £85 (Edelrid Dealers) (http://www.edelrid.de/index.php?lang=1&cl=shops)

 

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Title: The North Face Catalyst Micro Jacket – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on March 28, 2014, 12:00:25 am
The North Face Catalyst Micro Jacket – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/03/27/the-north-face-catalyst-micro-jacket-climbing-gear-review/)
27 March 2014, 6:14 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/tnf-logo-e1382943588102.jpg?w=300&h=137) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/tnf-logo-e1382943588102.jpg)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/a0jc_d1r_fw13_01.jpg?w=255&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/a0jc_d1r_fw13_01.jpg) CGR tests out the new water resistant down jacket from The North Face- can Dave put a dampener on it?
The North Face Men’s Catalyst Micro Jacket delivers packable, warm and resilient performance for ski touring with a water resistant down fill.
Performance ****

Style*****

Value***

I knew it was coming when our new website guru Richie had bought a water resistant down jacket at a price than made me feint (I am from Yorkshire after all). It was just a matter of time and with 2012/ 13 all about body mapping so 2014 is all about water resistant down.

The North face got quickly on the scene with an affordable water resistant (note that term) down jacket with the Catalyst Micro  (http://www.thenorthface.co.uk/tnf-uk-en/men-s-catalyst-micro-jacket/p88243.html)jacket. This is a typical down micro down jacket in style but is filled with 800 Fill ProDown; a water resistant (or, more technically a hydrophobic) down.

So how does the TNf Prodown work – well in the showroom it works really well as I was shown at TNF HQ with a fully lofted down particle immersed in water shown to me.

Hydrophobic down works by coating the down fibres in chemicals that help the down fibres repel water whilst retaining its loft. In short what the designer is after is the warmth and compressibility of down coupled with the warm when damp properties of synthetic fill. Of course we still have all those nasty chemicals to deal with and The North Face have been working hard to produce garments within Blue Sign guidelines. In order to reduce their environmental footprint with the down coating they have been working with their supplier to reduce the chemical process and change the chemical compounds.

Less of that though and more of the jacket’s performance – I found the fit of this jacket great. Athletic, but not too tight that I couldn’t wear a thick fleece or hoody under it but it fitted well enough for general mountain activities such as hiking, scrambling and winter mountaineering. I should point out that I often wore a hoody under it for casual or coaching activities, but it would interfere with the fit for active sport.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/catalyst-climbing.jpg?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/catalyst-climbing.jpg)The TNF Catalyst had a good cut for climbing in. A cold and windy Robin Proctor Scar. The sample size was medium and I’m often a 40” chest, the size was just right for that with a little extra room, the fit was slim at the waist and the cut was great at the arms with very little rise. The Flash Dry (similar to Power Dry) armpit inserts helped here and aided with heat and moisture evaporation when the going got active. They also made the jacket comfortable by reducing chaffing under the arms.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/tnf-catalyst-mountain.jpg?w=300&h=225) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/tnf-catalyst-mountain.jpg)The TNF Catalyst was very comfortable for active sports. The North Face Catalyst Micro Jacket  (http://www.thenorthface.co.uk/tnf-uk-en/men-s-catalyst-micro-jacket/p88243.html)has three pockets, two handwarmer and one left hand chest pocket. The right hand pocket is the signature stow pocket. They worked well all the time and were plenty big enough for hats, gloves and some food. The jacket compressed well into the pocket and would compress a little more if space was tight. The chest pocket was large enough for phones, wallets, ipods, etc. The handwarmer pockets were low down on the jacket which made them inaccessible with a harness on, but to be honest it’s not a specialist climbing jacket and the chest pocket was big enough for most items (topo’s, food, camera, etc).

The zip tags could have been a little more glove friendly. The main zipper was a YKK Vislon and worked really well in all conditions. The cuffs were well designed, fitted tightly around my wrist and were easy to tuck a pair of glove cuffs underneath.

The baffles were well filled and lofted nicely when heated (by your body), 14 horizontal baffles provided plenty of down to cover my torso. The down is 800 Fill Hungarian Goose, so premium quality and jacket did feel lovely and warm in all but the most cold conditions. The hydrophobic treatment did help with showery or slightly damp conditions as it dried out very quickly, the outer was lightweight ripstop and I should point out that is not shower proof as I discovered on several occasions. The North Face Catalyst Jacket  (http://www.thenorthface.co.uk/tnf-uk-en/men-s-catalyst-micro-jacket/p88243.html)did, however, dry out as quickly as a synthetic fill. The micro style jacket is now firmly established to such an extent that you rarely see a large baffled down jacket at the crag or the wall.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/catalyst-belay.jpg?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/catalyst-belay.jpg)The TNF Catalyst jacket was warm enough on those cold, spring days. Early season Malham Cove. The hood did just go over a climbing helmet, but did restrict head movements. It worked better under my helmet. It was great in normal conditions , easy to pop on with no adjustment necessary as it was elasticated, so no fuss deployment when needed.

So, The North Face have come up with a great jacket that will suit all manner of mountain activities as well as look great casually. The ProDown hydrophobic treatment, doesn’t shed off moisture so don’t expect a waterproof jacket, but it does help it to perform as good as a synthetic shell. It has served me well as a belay jacket for cragging and bouldering, as a throw on insulator when hiking in damp conditions and I’ve worn it for climbing wall sessions and coaching. It will serve you well in most UK conditions but not UK winter gnarl! At £200 it is priced well enough and the hydrophobic nature of the Summit Series jacket makes it worth that little bit extra.

SRP: £200

Stockists (http://www.thenorthface.co.uk/tnf-uk-en/ustorelocator/location/map/).

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Title: Jöttnar Bergelmir
Post by: comPiler on April 04, 2014, 01:00:25 pm
Jöttnar Bergelmir (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/04/04/jottnar-bergelmir/)
4 April 2014, 8:01 am

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/jottnar-logo.jpg?w=300&h=148) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/jottnar-logo.jpg) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/jottnar-bergelmir.jpg?w=388&h=375) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/jottnar-bergelmir.jpg)

CGR dons armour and tests the Neoshell jacket from newcomer Jöttnar – the hardshell with a soft side.
Constructed in a grade of Polartec® NeoShell® especially selected and tested by Jöttnar for hand feel and durability, it delivers true breathability, stretch and robustness in a lightweight and fully waterproof package. Streamlined, uncluttered, durable and athletically cut, Bergelmir is a modern day suit of armour.
Performance *****

Style ****

Value****

 

Last season I tested out one of the first jackets to feature the new Neoshell, the Marmot Nabu used Polartec Neoshell as a softshell fabric pretty effectively and I found it a good shell fabric, breathable and waterproof.

 

Since then many brands have been adopting the Polartec Neoshell as a hardshell material and I’m seeing more and more of it around in both jackets and pants.

 

New kid on the block Jöttnar (http://www.jottnar.com/) (pronounced Yot-nar) sent us both a jacket and a pair of bibs for test this winter. Based in Swindon Jöttnar have quickly established themselves as a premium brand that specialises in clothing for extreme mountaineering. Jöttnar specialise in small volume garments made with high quality materials and are designed to be used in extreme conditions.

 

Now I’m a sucker for all things Scandinavian, I must own some equipment or clothing from most known Scandinavian brands so with a name like Jöttnar (http://www.jottnar.com/) I was immediately hooked, with a jacket named Bergelmir (who in Norse mythology is a ‘frost giant) and a tagline Conquer Giants I was positively frothing.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/jottnar-1.jpg?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/jottnar-1.jpg)The Jöttnar Bergelmir was a brilliant winter shell.  

The Jöttnar Bergelmir  (http://www.jottnar.com/men/bergelmir-red-m)oozes quality, that the first thing to say. It is extremely well made which is not surprising looking at a price tag of £450. The attention to detail is amazing, the stitch count is high . The laser cutting is precise and all the fittings are well thought out and high quality. The Neoshell fabric had a nice soft feel to it, more like a softshell than the usual hardshell fabric and the whole jacket felt ‘soft’ to the touch. The Bergelmir was not a lightweight ‘leave in the pack until needed’ type of hardshell – it’s designed for extreme conditions and to be worn all day. Saying that it’s not overly heavy weighing in at 510g and packed down reasonably well.

 

The sample size sent was a size Medium, I’m a 38-40” chest and the jacket fitted over everything I wore for a winter day out – baselayer, fleece and insulated vest. Some days I wore an insulated jacket instead of the fleece. It went over everything well yet didn’t seem to be bulky and I could climb all day once I had it on. I never once felt the jacket impeded my climbing even though it would fit over everything.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/jottnar-2.jpg?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/jottnar-2.jpg)It was a great cut for climbing.  

The cut is great for winter climbing mountaineering and a lot of thought has gone into how the jacket will work with a harness on. The pockets are situated high on the torso and work with opposing hands. The large right hand pocket was big enough for an OS map and accessed with the left hand. The left hand pocket as smaller and accessed with the right hand. There was also an inside pocket which was beautifully patterned with the Jöttnar logo and big enough for valuables, a phone or a small camera. The pocket zips were YKK Aquacoil and worked well even in heavy rain. There was a zip garage to keep the zip tidy when climbing or when it was really windy, it was finished off with a nice rubber zip tag which was shaped in the Jöttnar logo.

 

The main zip was YKK Vislon. This worked really well, every time even with bulky gloves on. It was easy to locate and worked very smoothly. It was finished off with a large zip pull which again worked well. There was a comfortable chin guard that was finished with laminated microfleece and the beard guard was stiffened. The zip didn’t seem to leak even when I wore it in driving snow and hail as the storm flap worked effectively due to the slight stiffening.

 

All the drawcords were made from 3mm shockcord and the toggles worked well first time, every time. The hood drawcord was just a single cord and was very easy to use – I did find, however, that I had to be very careful to make sure the ends were very well tucked inside the jacket because they hurt like crazy when flapping about in the wind. This happened often as it’s not something you think instinctively when the wind begins to blow hard.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/jottnar-hood-2.jpg?w=300&h=225) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/jottnar-hood-2.jpg)The hood kept out everything winter threw at it. The all important hood was excellent, big enough to go over any helmet but adjustable enough to cinch down without one. The rear adjuster was easy to get hold of and adjust both ways, something that has let down very expensive hardshells in past reviews. So easy to find with nice big toggle that worked with gloves on – perfect! There was also a big, chunky feeling wire to the peak that, again, worked well with gloves. A very thin piece of padding made for an effective enough peak.

 

The Jöttnar Bergelmir  (http://www.jottnar.com/men/bergelmir-red-m)was very waterproof and although I wear a hardshell for a variety of reasons (not just because it’s raining) it did a good job of keeping the rain out. The beauty of the Polartec Neoshell fabric is the speed at which it dries out and allows your baselayers to dry out – very rapidly. As I’ve stated in previous reviews it’s very difficult to stay completely dry in any clothing as moisture is leaking out of you as well as trying to leak in. But what I am looking for is that dampness to dry out when I’m climbing so I can begin to get warm. I found that once I’d thrown a belay jacket on it didn’t take long for me to dry out. All the seams were fully taped with a variety of tape widths, the tape being thicker where the jacket if more likely to be taking on water.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/jottnar-blizzard.jpg?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/jottnar-blizzard.jpg)The Neoshell fabric was good at keeping the weather out.  

So in conclusion the Jöttnar Bergelmir  (http://www.jottnar.com/men/bergelmir-red-m)has been a great hardshell jacket. I have no hesitation in awarding it the rare 5 stars for performance. I’ve worn the jacket in some pretty atrocious weather this season and for plenty of winter climbing and mountaineering. It really has done a great job of keeping me warm and dry and I feel I’ve been donning armour to do battle. It feels like a hardshell with a soft side and most of all it’s a great jacket to get out there and conquer giants. I’m pretty sure they’ll become a great, niche brand and hopefully Jöttnar will keep up the Scandinavian theme, even if they are based in Swindon!

SRP: £450 - the Jöttnar Bergelmir comes in  two colours Red and Black and three sizes S,M and L.

Stockists

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Title: Jöttnar Bergelmir – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on April 07, 2014, 01:01:17 am
Jöttnar Bergelmir – Climbing Gear Review (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/04/04/jottnar-bergelmir/)
4 April 2014, 8:01 am

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/jottnar-logo.jpg?w=300&h=148) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/jottnar-logo.jpg) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/jottnar-bergelmir.jpg?w=388&h=375) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/jottnar-bergelmir.jpg)

CGR dons armour and tests the Neoshell jacket from newcomer Jöttnar – the hardshell with a soft side.
Constructed in a grade of Polartec® NeoShell® especially selected and tested by Jöttnar for hand feel and durability, it delivers true breathability, stretch and robustness in a lightweight and fully waterproof package. Streamlined, uncluttered, durable and athletically cut, Bergelmir is a modern day suit of armour.
Performance *****

Style ****

Value****

 

Last season I tested out one of the first jackets to feature the new Neoshell, the Marmot Nabu used Polartec Neoshell as a softshell fabric pretty effectively and I found it a good shell fabric, breathable and waterproof.

 

Since then many brands have been adopting the Polartec Neoshell as a hardshell material and I’m seeing more and more of it around in both jackets and pants.

 

New kid on the block Jöttnar (http://www.jottnar.com/) (pronounced Yot-nar) sent us both a jacket and a pair of bibs for test this winter. Based in Cardiff Jöttnar have quickly established themselves as a premium brand that specialises in clothing for extreme mountaineering. Jöttnar specialise in small volume garments made with high quality materials and are designed to be used in extreme conditions.

 

Now I’m a sucker for all things Scandinavian, I must own some equipment or clothing from most known Scandinavian brands so with a name like Jöttnar (http://www.jottnar.com/) I was immediately hooked, with a jacket named Bergelmir (who in Norse mythology is a ‘frost giant) and a tagline Conquer Giants I was positively frothing.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/jottnar-1.jpg?w=225&h=300) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/jottnar-1.jpg)The Jöttnar Bergelmir was a brilliant winter shell.  

The Jöttnar Bergelmir  (http://www.jottnar.com/men/bergelmir-red-m)oozes quality, that the first thing to say. It is extremely well made which is not surprising looking at a price tag of £450. The attention to detail is amazing, the stitch count is high . The laser cutting is precise and all the fittings are well thought out and high quality. The Neoshell fabric had a nice soft feel to it, more like a softshell than the usual hardshell fabric and the whole jacket felt ‘soft’ to the touch. The Bergelmir was not a lightweight ‘leave in the pack until needed’ type of hardshell – it’s designed for extreme conditions and to be worn all day. Saying that it’s not overly heavy weighing in at 510g and packed down reasonably well.

 

The sample size sent was a size Medium, I’m a 38-40” chest and the jacket fitted over everything I wore for a winter day out – baselayer, fleece and insulated vest. Some days I wore an insulated jacket instead of the fleece. It went over everything well yet didn’t seem to be bulky and I could climb all day once I had it on. I never once felt the jacket impeded my climbing even though it would fit over everything.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/jottnar-2.jpg?w=225&h=300) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/jottnar-2.jpg)It was a great cut for climbing.  

The cut is great for winter climbing mountaineering and a lot of thought has gone into how the jacket will work with a harness on. The pockets are situated high on the torso and work with opposing hands. The large right hand pocket was big enough for an OS map and accessed with the left hand. The left hand pocket as smaller and accessed with the right hand. There was also an inside pocket which was beautifully patterned with the Jöttnar logo and big enough for valuables, a phone or a small camera. The pocket zips were YKK Aquacoil and worked well even in heavy rain. There was a zip garage to keep the zip tidy when climbing or when it was really windy, it was finished off with a nice rubber zip tag which was shaped in the Jöttnar logo.

 

The main zip was YKK Vislon. This worked really well, every time even with bulky gloves on. It was easy to locate and worked very smoothly. It was finished off with a large zip pull which again worked well. There was a comfortable chin guard that was finished with laminated microfleece and the beard guard was stiffened. The zip didn’t seem to leak even when I wore it in driving snow and hail as the storm flap worked effectively due to the slight stiffening.

 

All the drawcords were made from 3mm shockcord and the toggles worked well first time, every time. The hood drawcord was just a single cord and was very easy to use – I did find, however, that I had to be very careful to make sure the ends were very well tucked inside the jacket because they hurt like crazy when flapping about in the wind. This happened often as it’s not something you think instinctively when the wind begins to blow hard.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/jottnar-hood-2.jpg?w=300&h=225) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/jottnar-hood-2.jpg)The hood kept out everything winter threw at it. The all important hood was excellent, big enough to go over any helmet but adjustable enough to cinch down without one. The rear adjuster was easy to get hold of and adjust both ways, something that has let down very expensive hardshells in past reviews. So easy to find with nice big toggle that worked with gloves on – perfect! There was also a big, chunky feeling wire to the peak that, again, worked well with gloves. A very thin piece of padding made for an effective enough peak.

 

The Jöttnar Bergelmir  (http://www.jottnar.com/men/bergelmir-red-m)was very waterproof and although I wear a hardshell for a variety of reasons (not just because it’s raining) it did a good job of keeping the rain out. The beauty of the Polartec Neoshell fabric is the speed at which it dries out and allows your baselayers to dry out – very rapidly. As I’ve stated in previous reviews it’s very difficult to stay completely dry in any clothing as moisture is leaking out of you as well as trying to leak in. But what I am looking for is that dampness to dry out when I’m climbing so I can begin to get warm. I found that once I’d thrown a belay jacket on it didn’t take long for me to dry out. All the seams were fully taped with a variety of tape widths, the tape being thicker where the jacket if more likely to be taking on water.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/jottnar-blizzard.jpg?w=225&h=300) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/jottnar-blizzard.jpg)The Neoshell fabric was good at keeping the weather out.  

So in conclusion the Jöttnar Bergelmir  (http://www.jottnar.com/men/bergelmir-red-m)has been a great hardshell jacket. I have no hesitation in awarding it the rare 5 stars for performance. I’ve worn the jacket in some pretty atrocious weather this season and for plenty of winter climbing and mountaineering. It really has done a great job of keeping me warm and dry and I feel I’ve been donning armour to do battle. It feels like a hardshell with a soft side and most of all it’s a great jacket to get out there and conquer giants. I’m pretty sure they’ll become a great, niche brand and hopefully Jöttnar will keep up the Scandinavian theme, even if they are based in Cardiff!

SRP: £450 - the Jöttnar Bergelmir comes in  two colours Red and Black and three sizes S,M and L.

Stockists

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Title: SCARPA Rebel Ultra Gore-Tex Boot – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on April 15, 2014, 01:00:28 pm
SCARPA Rebel Ultra Gore-Tex Boot – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/04/15/scarpa-rebel-ultra-gore-tex-boot-climbing-gear-review/)
15 April 2014, 8:35 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/stacks_image_229.jpg?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/stacks_image_229.jpg)(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/rebel-ultra-gtx-1.jpg?w=388&h=631) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/rebel-ultra-gtx-1.jpg)

Performance ? ? ? ?

Durability ? ? ? ? ? so far!

Value ? ? ? ?

CGR test out the new ultralight Rebel Ultra Gore-Tex boot from SCARPA to see if it will transform them into fast moving, Ueli Steck style, winter climbing wads… Weighing in at a claimed 1460g per pair (yes that is under 1.5kg!!) for a pair in UK size 8, I couldn’t wait to get my hands on the Rebel Ultra Gore-Tex B3 rated mountain boots from SCARPA, boots that they say are: “ideal for mixed and cascade, fast alpine and alpine rock climbing.”

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/img_42091.jpg?w=388&h=517) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/img_42091.jpg)SCARPA Rebel Ultra Gore Tex Boots – great for technical climbing.  

I’m forever obsessing over the next piece of lightweight kit to come along, always looking at ways of shaving grams off my clothing system, rack, pack and my footwear. There is a method in this obsession though, as the more your stuff weighs the stronger and fitter you need to be to carry it all and also, the more energy you expend. This is particularly the case with footwear. I remember reading once that as a rule of thumb, “one pound on your feet equals five pounds on your back.” There appears to be some evidence to support this too, and some of this has been collated in an article on FJÄDERLÄTT (http://www.fjaderlatt.se/2009/11/weight-on-your-feet.html), a Nordic lightweight backpacking website . Basically though, when thinking about energy expenditure, the lighter your footwear the better.

What SCARPA say:
 
“This B3 rated boot is ideal for mixed and cascade, fast alpine and alpine rock climbing.  A specifically designed carbon mid-sole is tough but very, very light and allows a little bit of progressive flex to enhance climbing sensitivity and approach comfort. 

Talking about comfort, the Sock Fit Plus with built in RIBS and the new NAG last offer a fit and comfort level more associated to a pair of snugly fitting slippers than some hard-core mountain boots.

Weather protection, durability and insulation is taken care of by the new KCN-TECH Fabric on the outside, which is constructed from Kevlar, Nylon and Cordura,  and a full GORE-TEX (Insulated Comfort Footwear) liner on the inside

An all new sole and updated sole unit produce plenty of traction and help save energy whilst on approach with the Re-Active AC sole which utilises Scarpa’s Activ impact Technology.

Look at the weight 730g per boot! (size 42/ UK8).”
   

So far I have mainly used the Rebel Ultra Gore-Tex for Scottish winter climbing. A mixture of ice and mixed routes, and also some technical scrambling in North Wales. Prior to using the boots my main concern was how warm they would or wouldn’t be. Friends mocked, telling me I needed to prepare for cold toes unless I was going to be moving fast. So were they correct?

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/p1080382.jpg?w=388&h=217) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/p1080382.jpg)SCARPA Rebel Ultra Gore Tex Boots – not the warmest winter boot but great to climb in.  

Well, yes and no. Firstly I’d like to say that the Rebel Ultra Gore-Tex boots are light and comfortable. They feel like you are winter climbing in ‘fruit boots’ and walking in lightweight hiking boots. They really are that precise and comfortable.

 

When climbing rock the boots feel very precise and I would quite happily tackle technical rock climbs and easy scrambles in these. As it says on the SCARPA website: “The Flex Point System allows your ankles complete freedom of movement, even in the stiffest of boots, whilst maintaining support and confidence on all terrains.” And it is this ankle flexibility that provides excellent freedom of movement on technical rock, ice and mixed ground. Team these boots up with a technical monopoint crampon such as Grivel’s G20 or Petzl’s Dart and you’re looking at almost rockshoe like sensitivity and precision on ice and mixed ground, with low weight too. The lightness and sensitivity are aided by a carbon insole which gives a tiny bit of progressive flex. The downside of the ankle flexibility is that there is less support for the ankles on scree and uneven ground and I probably wouldn’t want to frontpoint up a 60 degree ice slope for 1000 metres in these, as it would probably give my calf muscles quite a hammering! They are incredible to walk in and climb technical ground though.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/photo.jpg?w=388&h=517) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/photo.jpg)SCARPA Rebel Ultra Gore Tex Boots – Comfortable to walk and climb in.  

So, back to the warmth question…how warm are they? Well, I suppose this is a little subjective. I tend to suffer more than my friends when it comes to cold hands and feet. And during this past winter in Scotland, I did find that I got cold toes when wearing the Rebel Ultra Gore-Tex. How cold depended upon how far below zero it was (obviously) and also how long I was stood still. In short, I found them bearable (definitely not warm) for Scottish winter routes but although I didn’t use them for continental ice and mixed climbs in the winter season, I am pretty sure they would have been too cold for me. I would stick with the Phantom Guide for day routes, or the Phantom 6000 for multi day alpine routes in winter. This said, I have yet to use these boots for Summer alpinism and for this, I feel they will be perfect. Look out for part 2 of my review at the end of the Summer.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/img_3665.jpg?w=388&h=517) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/img_3665.jpg)SCARPA Rebel Ultra Gore Tex Boots – Great for steep mixed ground!  

One concern I have with kit that is becoming increasingly lighter and lighter in weight, is how well it will wear. So far I have found no durability issues with Rebel Ultra Gore-Tex, the outers are still in perfect condition and there are no signs of premature wear on the soles. They also survived the stream ‘watertight’ test on their last outing! In terms of sealing out the elements, the integrated gaiter does a very good job and works well with trousers tucked in or over the top. I did find the laces a little short when trying to get a good secure fit around the ankles, and the velcro tongue was a bit snug and fiddly but maybe once fastened they worked well.

 

So the overall conclusion so far is that for UK winter climbing, easy rock and scrambles, the SCARPA Rebel Ultra Gore-Tex is a great boot. It is quite specialist and won’t suit everybody’s needs but for technical ice and mixed, scrambles and easy rock, it is a boot that climbs fantastically. On the downside, some may find that the ankle is not as supportive as a conventional B3 boot and don’t expect to have warm toes!

 

Look out for part two of this review in a July when I’ve put them through the test in summer alpine conditions.


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Title: Haglöfs Rando Flex Pant – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on April 23, 2014, 07:00:15 pm
Haglöfs Rando Flex Pant – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/04/23/haglofs-rando-flex-pant-climbing-gear-review/)
23 April 2014, 2:56 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/haglc3b6fs_logo_basic-white-on-black.jpg?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/haglc3b6fs_logo_basic-white-on-black.jpg)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/haglafs-rando-flex-pant.jpg?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/haglafs-rando-flex-pant.jpg)

Performance ?????

Durability ?????

Value ????

 

Over the ski touring season we’ve tested a couple of products from Haglöfs. The first of these being the Rando Flex Pant. So how were they? (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/p1080885.jpg?w=388&h=250) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/p1080885.jpg)Haglöfs Rando Flex Pant – great ski touring trousers. Here in use on a sunny but cold day on the summit of Pigne D’Arolla, Switzerland. The Haglöfs Rando Flex Pant is what they call a: “Durable, fully equipped Soft Shell stretch pants that are perfect for randonee.” Randonnee is actually a French word meaning excursion and can refer to a few different things but in the case of the Rando Flex Pant, it is talking about ski touring.

Here at CGR we’ve used the Rando Flex Pant on a number of ski touring excursions and have been generally quite impressed. As they are aimed at this activity we have not used them for an awful lot else but there is no reason why you couldn’t wear them for general mountaineering or ice climbing. However, the cut of the trouser is definitely more aimed at skiing as it is quite roomy/relaxed in the leg and I would generally prefer something more fitted for out and out climbing. For ski mountaineering they are perfect though.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/p1080858.jpg?w=388&h=217) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/p1080858.jpg)Haglöfs Rando Flex Pant – the fabric was comfortable, durable and did a great job of regulating my temperature whilst skinning. Starting with the fit I quickly noticed that they are quite big for their size. I have a 30 inch waist and my test pair were size small (which equates to a 30 inch waist). The waist seemed very roomy for the given size (I hadn’t lost weight!) and I was glad of the integrated belt and simple braces system to help keep them positioned on my waist. The zippered fly worked smoothly and was accessible even with gloves. The high quality press studs on the waist were secure and easy to open and close.

 

The leg length worked fine for me, I have a regular inside leg (32 inch) and the Rando Flex Pants were neither too long nor too short. The cut of the trousers was quite relaxed without being too baggy and they worked fine with or without long johns, providing excellent freedom of movement. This comfort and freedom of movement was aided by the articulated knees and offset side and inner leg seems, the latter also helping to ensure there was no undue chafing! They fitted easily over ski boots, even when the cuffs of the boots were loosened (in walk mode) whilst skinning uphill. A zippered opening on the back helped with this but actually the trousers would have been fine without. I also liked the simple internal gaiter which provided a good seal around the bottom of my ski boots with it’s silicone grip.

The Haglöfs Rando Flex Pant is a softshell pant, it isn’t waterproof. The non membrane stretch FlexAble fabrics provided decent weather resistance to wind and moisture and with the aid of the DWR finish, repelled rain or wet snow adequately enough that I didn’t feel like I needed to put waterproofs on if it was just a shower. The fabric seems to be tough as well and I have yet to see any signs of wear and tear. The abrasion patches around the ankles have stood up to crampon and ski edge abuse too.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/p1060142.jpg?w=388&h=291) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/p1060142.jpg)Haglöfs Rando Flex Pant – note the kick patches to resist abrasion from ski edges and crampons. The demands of ski touring in Spring conditions can mean that you need something that regulates your temperature efficiently and the Haglöfs Rando Flex Pant did this extremely well. They are a very breathable trouser and I really liked the closed mesh backer on the inside as this did a good job of feeling comfortable next to my skin and wicking moisture away. If things got too hot on the climbs then the huge vents on either leg, regulated my temperature quite nicely but could be securely zipped up for the descents. If it was really cold I added thin wool long johns underneath.

To finish off the package the Haglöfs Rando Flex Pant has 3 zippered pockets to keep valuables, lip balm and suncream close to hand.

All in all I found these trousers to be perfect for ski touring and ski mountaineering. The cut, whilst quite roomy was great for skiing in and the fabric was very comfortable and durable. The braces were super easy to use and adjust. If you are looking for one pant to do all jobs in the mountains then this is perhaps not the best choice but for Randonnee it is ideal.

 

 

 

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Title: Deuter Provoke 16 Snowsports Pack – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on April 29, 2014, 07:00:25 pm
Deuter Provoke 16 Snowsports Pack – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/04/29/deuter-provoke-16-snowsports-pack-climbing-gear-review/)
29 April 2014, 2:07 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/deuter.jpg?w=300&h=271) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/deuter.jpg)(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/provoke.jpg?w=259&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/provoke.jpg)

Kasia Baldwin tests out the Provoke 16 pack from Deuter…  Performance ????

Features ?????

Value ????

When given this little pack to try out I was thrilled as I’m already a bit of a Deuter fan and a week skiing in Chamonix was calling.

The 16 litre pack, which is part of the Deuter Alpine series, comes in two colour options, Turquoise-Kiwi or Fire-Black. I personally really liked the brightness of the Turquoise and Kiwi version. At a weight of 1050g it’s not the lightest pack on the market but I think sometimes you have to balance weight with comfort and this pack was certainly comfortable to wear all day.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/p1080531.jpg?w=167&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/p1080531.jpg)Deuter Provoke Pack – comfortable to wear whilst skiing. Size wise, made to hold 16 litres, its dimensions are 53cm high, 26cm wide with a max depth of 16cm. It’s not huge so whilst it’s not ideal for a day of ski mountaineering its perfect for a day ski touring or some off piste slope action. The slim profile meant I could also fit on a ski lift whilst wearing the pack. Another way to create a bit of storage space is to buy Deuter’s mesh helmet holder. This pack has the attachments for the holder so you can easily carry your helmet on the front. I also found this useful to store the skins for my skis when not in use.

When using the pack on an off piste day adventure, I managed to fit in a Black Diamond snow shovel, an avalanche probe, a two litre water bladder, climbing harness and an ice screw and a sling. As well as a pair of goggles some food, spare pair of gloves and a gilet. So big enough for the essentials.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/img_4247.jpg?w=268&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/img_4247.jpg)Deuter Provoke Pack – dedicated shovel and probe pocket. So looking at the features of the bag…

There is one main pocket which has a divide for a water bladder, a mesh inner pocket for your valuables and the standard Deuter SOS label to remind you want to do in an emergency! The main compartment has two zip pulls which you can press stud together for added security. Less chance for the zips to pull open when the rucksack is stuffed to the rim. There is also a ‘sleeve’ sewn into the main compartment for stowing your avalanche probe – stops it moving around and getting in the way of your other kit.

The rucksack also has a small soft lined, padded pocket on the front to store your goggles/sunglasses. The soft lining helps to stop your goggles getting scratched. I also found I could store some lip balm and a cereal bar in there for quick access instead of routing around in the main compartment.

One of the great features of this bag is the fact that whether you’re a skier or a boarder this little bag can carry either skis or a snowboard. I had no trouble attaching my skis on the walking sections at the start and finish of the Valle Blanche. I used the A-frame method though you can opt for a front diagonal carry if that’s your preferred method. I’ve not tried attaching my snowboard as yet but I’m sure it’s simple enough to work out. The bag also boasts one adjustable ice axe loop which can be stuffed neatly away when you don’t need it – saves it flapping about or getting caught on things.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/p1080529.jpg?w=167&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/p1080529.jpg)Deuter Provoke Pack – comfortable and sturdy for carrying skis or snowboard. Other features include side compression straps an emergency whistle on the chest strap and a ‘neoprene tunnel’ which is integrated in the right shoulder strap to feed through your water bladder tube so it doesn’t freeze. This tunnel has a little zip so you can stowaway the end of your tube when not in use. I found this could be a little fiddly at times but no major hassle.

Overall I really rate the bag for single days out skiing, whether you’re playing on the slopes, going off piste or doing some ski touring. Whilst I’ve already mentioned it’s not the lightest bag around, I’d rather have something a little heavier that didn’t dig into my waist or shoulders. As well as feeling comfortable it also felt secure on my back and didn’t feel to get in the way at all so I could concentrate on enjoying myself. A great pack which I’m sure I’ll use for carting bits of kit around town as well and not just on the hill.


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Title: Haglöfs Rando Hybrid Jacket – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on May 02, 2014, 01:00:40 am
Haglöfs Rando Hybrid Jacket – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/05/01/haglofs-rando-hybrid-jacket-climbing-gear-review/)
1 May 2014, 8:06 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/haglc3b6fs_logo_basic-white-on-black.jpg?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/07/haglc3b6fs_logo_basic-white-on-black.jpg)(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/haglofs-rando-hybrid-ski-jacke-firefly-28078_l1.jpg?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/haglofs-rando-hybrid-ski-jacke-firefly-28078_l1.jpg)

This is the second of our Haglöfs tests aimed at “rando” or ski touring. This time the Rando Hybrid Jacket. So what’s the verdict?  Performance ?????

Features ?????

Value ????

 

Haglöfs say that: “The Rando Hybrid Jacket is a lightweight and versatile softshell jacket that offers a mix of wind resistance and freedom of movement, making them perfect for Randonee and similar activities.“

 

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/p1060155.jpg?w=300&h=225) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/p1060155.jpg)A great jacket for ski mountaineering. Here on the summit of the Bruggenhorn. I’ve used the Rando Hybrid Jacket for ski touring and general mountaineering and I have to say it is a very comfortable and versatile piece of kit. I like the comfort and flexibility that softshell clothing allows; yes it won’t keep me dry in a heavy downpour, but otherwise it’s pretty much perfect.

 

The “Hybrid” bit of the title is referring to the fabrics used to produce the jacket. The main body is produced in a Gore Windstopper 3 layer softshell fabric, the idea being that maximum wind and moisture protection is placed where you need it most e.g. your core, and the rest is constructed using Flexable stretch softshell fabric, which still offers excellent moisture and wind protection, but is more breathable and lighter. This kind of ‘fabric mapping’ is not new but is a good way of maximising the benefits of certain fabrics, just in the areas that they are needed. All the fabrics on the Haglöfs Rando Hybrid Jacket are treated with a DWR (Durable Water Repellant) finish, to maximise water repellancy. The fabrics stretch throughout, helping with the freedom of movement.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/p1020763.jpg?w=300&h=196) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/p1020763.jpg)Great for ski touring! Seen in use here in the Aiguiles Rouges, France. So, a little bit more about the Haglöfs Rando Hybrid Jacket… It is cut to about hip length, with a slightly dropped seat to help protect your bum from the elements. The hem is drawcord adjustable and has a rubberised underside to help grip, seal out snow and stop it riding up, particularly useful if you are wearing a harness. The fit is roomy enough to accommodate a couple of insulation layers underneath (I usually wear a thin wicking layer and a light fleece midlayer) but there is no excess fabric flapping around either. Articulation is good and there is plenty of freedom of movement for climbing and skiing. I certainly had no issues with the jacket riding up when I was climbing, or the sleeves being too short.

The hood on the Haglöfs Rando Hybrid Jacket is simply awesome. This is something that lets a lot of so-called technical jackets down, but not here. The hood works well over a ski helmet, climbing helmet or even just your head! The three-way adjustment is easy and effective and can be done wearing gloves.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/p1060160.jpg?w=300&h=225) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/p1060160.jpg)The hybrid construction keeps you comfortable whether you’re going uphill or down. The hood is fantastic too. The full main zip with inner placket and laminated chin guard is easy to operate and clearly of good quality. The chin guard is comfortable and the inner placket repels the wind. The zip is actually a 2 way one which although a nice touch, I’m not sure is particularly necessary in a jacket like this.

The cuffs are adjusted by a simple velcro closure system and so far this is proving to be both durable and functional. The Rando Hybrid also has lots of storage space, with one chest pocket and 2 large mid-mounted hand pockets. These are positioned so as to not interfere with a climbing harness or rucksack straps and they work brilliantly, keeping everything you need (suncream, bars, compass etc) close by, but secure as well.

 

All in all the Haglöfs Rando Hybrid is a great softshell jacket for ski touring and general mountaineering. It is well cut and very breathable, but the Windstopper fabric on the body keeps the weather at bay. The hood is awesome and the great articulation and stretch fabrics make it a joy to wear. A perfect addition to any outdoor wardrobe!

 

 

 

 

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Title: DMM Renegade 2 – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on May 06, 2014, 07:00:13 pm
DMM Renegade 2 – Climbing Gear Review (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/05/06/dmm-renegade-2-climbing-gear-review/)
6 May 2014, 4:36 pm

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/dmm-climbing-logo-rgb.jpg?w=300&h=139) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/dmm-climbing-logo-rgb.jpg) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/rene_new-e1398678407799.jpg?w=300&h=228) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/rene_new.jpg)DMM Renegade 2 Dave tests out the new and improved DMM Renegade 2 harness – a true all rounder?
This really is the ultimate all rounder; a clever design that works across the full range of climbing disciplines: from cragging and winter climbing to big alpine routes.
Performance ****

Versatility ****

Value*****

I had my original DMM Renegade for quite a while (which is saying something for a gear freak). I liked the fit, the seven gear loops, the floating waistbelt and the overall quality as I’m quite a fan of DMM kit. I eventually changed it as I’d ripped one of the Hypalon ice clipper slots. DMM have done a great job with the Renegade 2, more than just a few cosmetic tweaks, they have completely revamped it to give a good quality all mountain harness. The thing I like most of all is the floating waistbelt, I liked it in the original renegade and I still do. After tightening the auto lock buckle you can slide the waistbelt around to that the gear loops are in just the right place for you. The other advantage is if you have bought the harness on a borderline sizing (let’s say you’re a small but feel a medium just fits better) then you are not going to get lop sided gear loop arrangements – genius.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/dmm-renegade-cragging.jpg?w=360&h=480) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/dmm-renegade-cragging.jpg)The DMM Renegade 2 was comfortable as a big route, all day harness. The fit is very comfortable, I am doing a lot of instructional work this year as I prepare for my MIA assessment (Mountaineering Instructor Award – a UK multi pitch and mountaineering guide qualification) so I’ve spent a considerable amount of time in this harness. No matter how long I’ve spent in it, it has remained very comfortable, even in my personal winter climbing it has been a great all day harness. The ergonomically shaped back is just enough to give some support without feeling overly bulky. The rigid, foam inner also added support in both the waistbelt and the leg loops. The floating waistbelt is made from 25mm webbing and tightened using a smooth working autolock buckle. It was great to undo and easy to rethread (important in winter, especially the leg loops – just ask anyone who has teetered above a very steep slope trying to get legloops over crampons!). The excess tape was smoothly tucked away using the three elasticated loops.

The tie-in loops were well sewn and burly enough, but not as burly as some harnesses we’ve tested this season. This is one area of your harness that you should look at regularly and will usually be the main reason why you retire it. It takes the most punishment and is a high wear area as the only time there is not considerable pressure on it is when you are actually climbing, until you fall off that is. So with rope running across it several times a day, pressure from your weight rubbing against it I like to see manufacturers pay particular attention to it. I counted three layers of webbing on the DMM Renegade 2 (http://dmmclimbing.com/products/new-renegade-harness/), two webbing and one abrasion resistant layer. I would have liked to seen the abrasion resistant layer a full sleeve around the loop. That’s not to say it wasn’t burly and didn’t work well, I just feel that a little more redundancy in this area always pays dividends in perceived security.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/dmm-renegade-thor.jpg?w=388&h=291) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/dmm-renegade-thor.jpg)The DMM Renegade 2 gear loops swallowed up any sized rack. For instructional work I loved the seven gear loops, they also worked well for winter climbing. For normal summer rock climbing I found 5 worked best and sometimes didn’t use the front two as I found I constantly had gear swinging around my thighs (I think this may be because I had a medium and I’m one of those people that is a borderline size – too fat for a small but too thin for a medium). In the original Renegade the gear loops were the standard tubular webbing covered in clear plastic tubing. The Renegade 2 completely reverses this with a pre formed hard plastic tube covered in an abrasion resistant material. I’ve been testing the DMM Renegade for several months now and they’re showing no signs of wear, time will tell whether this system is an improvement on the Renegade 1. Overall though the gear loop arrangement is great, for my Instructional and Guiding work they are a godsend as I’m carrying lots of extras as well as winter climbing and routes where I needed lot’s of gear.

The legloops are also made using 5mm foam inserts and were very comfortable. There was a little adjustment from the elasticated rear strips. These detached with a small clip buckle and were fine to use without gloves on but very fiddly with them one, to be fair though I’ve never come across a harness that has this issue sorted. They adjusted very smoothly with an auto lock buckle and the excess tape was tidied away through a webbed and elasticated loop. The loop at the fronts help tuck away the excess webbing but it is very import to know that this isn’t a loop for a carabiner, the designers have extended the buckle away from the webbing junction so the any carabiner used for abseiling sits above the buckle. This ensure the correct loading and reduces the chances of accidental opening when attaching a prusick back to the leg loop. There is further guidance on backing up abseils on the BMC website.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/dmm-renegade-winter.jpg?w=360&h=480) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/dmm-renegade-winter.jpg)A great winter climbing harness – but the ice clipper slots still need some work on them. Finally, back to the ice clipper slots. I began the review by saying that I had stopped using my original Renegade as I’d ripped one the ice clipper slots. I don’t know how I did it as the holders are made from Hypalon (which is pretty tough). DMM haven’t really changed the design, They work well enough and take both the Petzl and Black Diamond clippers but the slot still feels a little flimsy and when I’m dangling up to £300 worth of ice screws on it I feel this is an area that needs further improvement. So, in conclusion, the DMM Renegade 2 (http://dmmclimbing.com/products/new-renegade-harness/) is a great all round mountain harness. It will perform well for all climbing activities, is very comfortable and the seven gear loops work well and are useful (especially for big multi pitch rock and winter routes). It’s been my ‘go to’ harness for instructional/guiding work and is definitely a good improvement on the original Renegade. If you are going to buy just one harness for everything you do then you will find the Renegade 2 good value for money.

SRP: £70.00

Stockists (http://dmmclimbing.com/retailers/)

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Title: Jöttnar Vanir Salopette – Climbing Gear Review, Long Term Test
Post by: comPiler on May 08, 2014, 07:00:11 pm
Jöttnar Vanir Salopette – Climbing Gear Review, Long Term Test (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/05/08/jottnar-vanir-salopette-climbing-gear-review-long-term-test/)
8 May 2014, 3:01 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/jottnar-logo.jpg?w=300&h=148) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/04/jottnar-logo.jpg)(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/vanir_black_m.jpg?w=107&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/vanir_black_m.jpg)

We recently reviewed the Jöttnar Bergelmir Shell Jacket (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/04/04/jottnar-bergelmir/) and the conclusion was that it was pretty damn good. So how does the Jöttnar Vanir Salopette compare?  Performance ?????

Durability ?????

Value ?????

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/gargoyle-wall.jpg?w=388&h=517) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/12/gargoyle-wall.jpg)Jöttnar Vanir Salopette – great for technical mixed climbing such as that found on Gargoyle Wall, Ben Nevis Jöttnar are a relatively new company, with a small range of quality kit that aims to “offer modern day suits of mountain armour, designed to protect you against your most formidable opponents” that opponent being, the weather!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/img_3690.jpg?w=388&h=517) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/img_3690.jpg)Jöttnar Vanir Salopette – great protection from the rain. Here seen used on some technical scrambles on the Idwal Slabs, North Wales. I have used the Vanir Salopette in a wide range of conditions over the course of what has been quite a long test, Scottish winter climbing (rain, wind, snow, hail and everything in between, plus a large dose of abrasive rock), Alpine climbing (extreme cold, altitude, warmth, north faces, ice, snow, rough granite and limestone) and also skiing. So they’ve had a pretty thorough test and battled quite a lot of formidable “Giants”.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/p1080051.jpg?w=388&h=522) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/p1080051.jpg)Jöttnar Vanir Salopette – driving wet snow, wind and fluctuating temperatures are typical of a Scottish winter day out and the Jöttnar Vanir Salopette coped brilliantly. Jöttnar say that the Vanir is:

“A fully featured winter salopette designed for extreme mountain conditions. Constructed from Polartec® Neoshell® it delivers true breathability, stretch and robustness in a lightweight and fully waterproof package. With an athletic cut, articulated and reinforced knees, zip-out gaiters, stretch-woven back, harness-friendly ¾ length side zips and full-sized Kevlar™ instep protectors, Vanir is the professional’s choice.”

I’d like to start by saying I’ve loved wearing the Vanir Salopettes. I usually hate wearing hard shell trousers, hating the rustling bulky fabrics and sweaty (breathable!) membranes, but this winter has been so wet when out in the UK hills, that I’ve really had no choice! Luckily the Vanir Salopettes arrived just in time and after their first outing there was never really any decision to be made. Usually if I thought I could get away with it I would definitely always wear softshell but after one day in the Vanir this winter, that was able to change!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/p3190206.jpg?w=388&h=291) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/p3190206.jpg)Jöttnar Vanir Salopette – the cold and dry conditions that can be found during an Alpine winter require clothing that is flexible and breathable but also ready to protect you if the weather changes suddenly. Here the Jöttnar Vanir Salopette gets an outing on the Eiger North Face. It wasn’t just the fabrics and sweaty membranes that had put me off hardshell trousers in the past, it was also the cut. I could never find a trouser that was cut perfectly for technical climbing. They were usually too baggy, more for general mountaineering and skiing. And that was the first big positive I noticed with the Vanir Salopette, the cut (which is described as athletic) actually seems to have been designed with climbing in mind! It’s perfect! And I can still wear them with ski boots if I need to, although it is a snug fit.

In his review of the Bergelmir Shell Jacket, Dave described it as a “hardshell with a soft side” and I would say exactly the same for the Vanir Salopette. They are fully waterproof hardshell trousers but feel as comfortable to wear as softshell trousers. I love the stretchy face fabric, which when coupled with the excellent cut, was brilliant to climb in, being protective and unrestrictive, tailored with fabric just where it is needed and not where it’s not. The articulation seemed perfect for me! Clearly a lot of thought has been put into this and it’s paid off as these are the best fitting technical hardshell pant/salopette that I’ve used.

The Vanir Salopettes have waterproof zips which open all the way up to your hips and this means that they are easy to get on and off whether you have trainers on or ski boots. Whilst the Vanir sports waterproof and breathable Polartec Neoshell fabric up to the waist on the back and the chest on the front, the rear bib part of the salopette is constructed from a stretch woven fabric, the idea being that this will be more comfortable and breathable against your back, particularly when wearing a pack. I don’t think the bib part of the salopettes needs to be constructed in a membrane fabric at all really as if it is raining or very windy then you would likely be wearing a shell jacket of some kind anyway.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/p1080646.jpg?w=388&h=291) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/p1080646.jpg)Jöttnar Vanir Salopette – won’t let you down in demanding mountain environments. The front of the bib has a zip which runs from chest height down to your crotch so ventilation is easy, as is taking a pee! However answering more serious calls of nature is not so easy, particularly when wearing a climbing harness and although you can release the elasticated (and easily adjustable) braces without fully taking off your outer jacket, you still need to drop your harness and it’s all pretty fiddly to get back on afterwards. There is definitely a challenge out there for a company to design a brilliant pair of salopettes like the Vanir but that are easy to use when answering calls of nature! I suppose it’s all a balance and ideally you won’t have to “go” more than once a day anyway! The fly zipper on the Vanir is easy to use when wearing gloves and the belt is comfortable and secure even with a harness on.

Thomas Kelly, Director of Sales and Marketing at Jöttnar, had this to say about the toilet-friendliness issue:

Just for interest, the toilet-friendliness issue is something we were conscious of but was ultimately out-prioritised by other considerations.  Our preference was with 3/4 length zips in order not to have a zip running over the hip bone which, when worn under a harness for multiple hours with a heavy rack, turns into an uncomfortable pressure point.   The other drop-seat method, where the zip curls around the mid-point on the backside, was also discarded.  In our own testing and experience, a zip orientated in such a way becomes a real point of weakness due to the forces exerted on it by the continual bending, twisting and stretching of the buttocks and hips.  From an aesthetic perspective also, it’s not a particularly elegant look and it would have compromised the tailored fit that we wanted.

In my own experience, drop seats really don’t add much at all in the way of convenience and the process is made no less uncomfortable or inconvenient with them.  As long as you can easily remove the braces, which you can on Vanir, then the whole toilet episode is manageable.  I fully appreciate that this is a personal preference thing, and it was a subject of much deliberation, but our priorities here were driven by fit, climbing performance, comfort and simplicity.
One of my favourite features on the Vanir Salopette are the huge Kevlar kick patches which protect the ankle and lower leg area from crampon spikes, ski edges and general abrasion. These patches probably reach twice the height of any other technical trouser/salopette I have used (hardshell or softshell). I have to say that on all these other trousers, I never once put a hole in them in the kick patch area (it was always too low) and it was always just in the area above. Needless to say, I have not put any holes in the Vanir, as the protection is actually where you need it! The “Waterproof, breathable, stretch, 3 layer Polartec® Neoshell® in legs, seat and front bib. 136 g/m2″ main fabric has proved to be very durable with no holes and only the odd loop pulling from the outer face fabric where they have been exposed to sharp points such as racked ice screws. The other main wear areas, the seat and knees, are actually both reinforced as well.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/p1080674.jpg?w=388&h=688) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/p1080674.jpg)Jöttnar Vanir Salopette – note the HUGE kick patches on the insteps! Other features I really like on the Vanir Salopette are the internal gaiters, which provide a snug fit over my mountaineering boots, sealing out any moisture. This works particularly well if you add bungy elastics to the tie down loops. I did find that with the gaiters fitted the whole system was a little tight to work comfortably with my ski boots but in these cases I just removed the gaiter and everything worked fine.

The Vanir Salopettes have a few pockets to store valuables and keep them safe. There are 2 chest pockets and 1 trouser pocket. This is more than adequate and they all close using waterproof zippers with glove friendly tabs.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/p1080665.jpg?w=388&h=688) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/p1080665.jpg)Jöttnar Vanir Salopette – waterproof zippers and nice attention to detail. So to conclude, the Vanir Salopette is a brilliantly cut salopette for technical climbing (the best I have used) and also works for skiing. The stretch Neoshell fabric gives the protection of a hardshell with the comfort and freedom of movement of a softshell and protects from any wind rain and snow the worst Scottish winter can throw at it! The quality of these salopettes is awesome and attention to detail has been everything. They’re not the lightest piece of leg protection out there but they’re definitely bombproof. They’re also not as easy to use when answer calls of nature as I’d perhaps like. I’d love to see a standard trouser version of these with removable braces. All in all a great piece of kit and worth the hefty price tag in my humble opinion. It’s not often we give out 5 start ratings across the board!

 

 

 

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Title: Gear news – Evolv Valor
Post by: comPiler on May 10, 2014, 01:00:08 pm
Gear news – Evolv Valor (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/05/10/gear-news-evolv-valor/)
10 May 2014, 10:13 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/evolv-logo1.gif?w=150&h=132) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/evolv-logo1.gif)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/evolve-valor.jpg?w=300&h=200) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/evolve-valor.jpg)Evolv Valor  

A new entry level, well priced shoe from Evolv. Look out for them this summer.

The Evolv Valor is a perfect entry-point to quality high performance climbing shoes, and an outstanding training shoe. The Valor provides comfort, great fit and an ideal balance of support and sensitivity to climbers of all levels.

Designed as a development of the ever-popular Defy model, the Valor offers increased underfoot support from a stiffer 1mm midsole. This results in less foot fatigue for newer climbers or during longer climbing sessions.

A plush nylon lining provides a bedroom slipper feel, and perforated synthetic upper allows breathability while minimizing stretch.

Features:

-          Assymetric profile

-          Perforated synthetic upper

-          1mm half-length midsole

-          VTR Rand

-          4.2mm TRAX high friction rubber sole

SRP £75

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Title: adidas Terrex Solo Stealth – Gear news
Post by: comPiler on May 19, 2014, 01:00:13 pm
adidas Terrex Solo Stealth – Gear news (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/05/19/adidas-terrex-solo-stealth-gear-news/)
19 May 2014, 10:26 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/adidas20logo.gif?w=300&h=220) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/adidas20logo.gif)

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Ever wondered how the partnership between adidas and 5.10 would turn out? Well, here’s what must be the first of many shoes to come. With the dual experience of trainer design from adidas and climbing shoe technology of 5.10 we’re predicting some great shoes to come. The adidas Terrex Solo are available in shops from Monday 5th May.

Our first thoughts are these are very, very sticky.

SRP £95

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Title: Via Ferratas of The French Alps – CGR book review
Post by: comPiler on May 19, 2014, 07:00:11 pm
Via Ferratas of The French Alps – CGR book review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/05/19/via-ferratas-of-the-french-alps-cgr-book-review/)
19 May 2014, 12:01 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/cicerone.jpg?w=300&h=176) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/11/cicerone.jpg)(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/via-ferrata-fc.jpg?w=201&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/via-ferrata-fc.jpg)

Dave takes a look at that most enjoyable rest day activity climbing Via Ferratas.
This guidebook covers 66 varied via ferratas in the French Alps. The routes are spread over six areas: Geneva and the Northern Alps, Chambéry, Tarentaise and Maurienne valleys, Grenoble and Briançon, amid the Mont Blanc, Vanoise and Queyras ranges. Difficulty ranges from easy, protected routes through to exposed, technical challenges.
I love Via Ferratas and will always seek them out on rest days, they have everything for me as a climber – that sense of exposure, upwards movement and getting into special places. Of course climbing Via Ferrata are an activity in their own right and many people enjoy them for the same reasons as I do without the rest day bit!

Via Ferratas of The French Alps by Richard Millar is a good, comprehensive guide covering routes throughout 6 regions of the French Alps from Geneva in the north through to Embrun in the south and this makes sense as they cover the two main airports of Chambery and Geneva.

The introduction covers all aspects of using the guide and gives some basic pointers on the equipment required and techniques needed as well as some of the dangers you might encounter on a day out. All well set out and easy to read, Miller uses the more commonly used grading system of a serious grading of A- C (where C is a remote, high route) and a technical grade of 1-5 with 1 being technically straight forward – say a family or beginners route and 5 having the full range of commitment and overhanging sections), he also add an exposure grade of 1-5. I feel this could have been incorporated into the seriousness grade and extended his levels to A-E as it would lessen the confusion. That said they were easy to understand and this is an area I feel the UIAA need to work on as the sport becoming more popular.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/via-ferrata-climber.jpg?w=194&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/via-ferrata-climber.jpg)How good can it get? The perfect Alpine day out for families, hikers and resting Aplinists! Each section has a good selection of routes with comprehensive route descriptions and other information on escape points, descents and topo photos as well as some great motivational shots. The topo diagrams were supported with symbols from a map key. This was difficult to find in the introduction and would have been much better placed on the inside front/back cover so I could get to see it quickly. The preponderance of symbols also led to some very cluttered looking photo topos. That said the route descriptions look easy to follow en-route and are very detailed.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/via-ferrata-topo.jpg?w=300&h=200) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/via-ferrata-topo.jpg)Clear photos gave good route info. So the Via Ferrata guide to The French Alps is a well written and easy to follow guide that should be a valuable addition to any Alps visitors list of guides to take with them. Whether you love them or hate them, it’s fast growing element within Alpine Sports and is very, very popular for all the right reasons. Richard Millars guide is well worth the money for english speaking via ferrata lovers. Now can we have one for Austria please!

SRP: £17.95

Stockists (http://www.cicerone.co.uk/product/detail.cfm/book/648/title/via-ferratas-of-the-french-alps#.U2dzN2dOUdU)

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Title: Wild Country Proton Quickdraw-Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on May 21, 2014, 07:00:21 pm
Wild Country Proton Quickdraw-Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/05/21/wild-country-proton-quickdraw-climbing-gear-review/)
21 May 2014, 5:17 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/wildcountry_logo.png?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/wildcountry_logo.png)(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/proton-qd-17cm.jpg?w=300&h=169) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/proton-qd-17cm.jpg)

Dave gives the new Wild Country Proton Quickdraw a test out and overview.
The Proton is Wild Country’s most complete sports climbing karabiner, tuned to perform in the toughest arenas.
Performance****

Style *****

Value

The first thing I’d like to point out that the quickdraws we were sent for review are not the same colour as the retail one’s. So please do not go looking for black and white draws – they will retail with the grey draw. The carabiners, however are the same as the retail version.

The Wild Country Proton (http://www.wildcountry.com/products/quickdraws/proton-quickdraws/) is a quickdraw designed for sport climbing and has features that are well suited for that purpose. The look remarkably similar in design to the DMM Alpha Sport  (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/10/23/dmm-alpha-sport-quickdraw-climbing-gear-review/)quickdraws we reviewed earlier in the year. There are however, small design differences that set them apart.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/wc-proton-clipped.jpg?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/wc-proton-clipped.jpg)The Wild Country Proton – a high quality sport climbing draw. The quickdraw has a great 25mm sewn draw that was easy to grab and pull up on. The ends were narrower to accommodate the carabiners. The webbing had a compimentary colour scheme that looked really nice and gave a quality experience. Lots of bar tack stitching gave complete confidence in the 22kN rating.

The carabiners had a great clipping action and I couldn’t fault them, the ergonomic back bar fitted snugly against my forefinger for both clipping into bolts and feeding the rope into them. I particularly liked the bent gate, which is more pronounced than the DMM Alpha Pro (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/10/23/dmm-alpha-sport-quickdraw-climbing-gear-review/). The straight gate had a curved feature that added a little extra friction and held the gate open when held in a stick.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/proton_1a.jpg?w=200&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/proton_1a.jpg)The straight gate could have been more featured for stick clipping. The Wild Country Proton  (http://www.wildcountry.com/products/quickdraws/proton-quickdraws/)didn’t hold open as securely as I would have liked in my clipstick (I was using a BetaStick for the test) as when it knocked against a bolt or I was fumbling the gate snapped closed. So this could be an area that would benefit from a small redesign in future models.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/proton-bent.jpg?w=171&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/proton-bent.jpg)The bent gate had an ergonomic gate that made rope clipping a dream. At the other end the bentgate carabiner was held securely in place using the ‘Vice’. This worked very well, looked robust and the carabiner never moved on. I would not advise taking the biner out as it was absolutely desperate to get back on again!

Both carabiners had wide internal surface areas to maximise rope and bolt placement as well as being engineered for weight reduction.

We had a couple of 17cm draws for test and the range comes in 3 lengths 12, 17 and 25cms with the 17cm draw weighing in at 121g. They also come in sets of 5

So overall a great sport climbing quickdraw and addition to the Wild Country range. They will work well in all sport climbing situations whether you are cranking a hard redpoint in Water Cum Jolly, on sighting 40m routes in Catalunya or steaming your way up multi pitch heaven in the Wilder Kaiser the Wild Country Proton  (http://www.wildcountry.com/products/quickdraws/proton-quickdraws/)quickdraw will be a high quality addition to your rack.

SRP: £12cm – £19, 17cm – £19.50, 25cm – £20, Sets of 5 12cm £88 and 17cm £90

Stockists (http://www.wildcountry.com/store-locator/)

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Title: 5.10 Rogue VCS
Post by: comPiler on May 24, 2014, 01:00:12 pm
5.10 Rogue VCS (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/05/24/5-10-rogue-vcs/)
24 May 2014, 8:40 am

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/five-ten-low-res.jpg?w=266&h=300) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/five-ten-low-res.jpg)(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/5ten_roguevcs.png?w=300&h=200) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/09/5ten_roguevcs.png) CGR tests out the super comfortable Rogue velcros from 5.10
Built on our Anasazi last, the Rogue VCS has a premium leather upper that conforms to your foot. This comfortable climbing shoe is designed for gym-to-rock performance and features our Comfort Range Slingshot and Active Arch Technology.
Performance ***

Style ****

Value****

I spend a lot of time ion climbing shoes, either when instructing, training or my own personal climbing. I have discovered, over time that you need a shoe that is comfortable as well as having good performance. Most people fit their climbing shoes much too small in the mistaken belief that they need that for the shoe to perform. Climbing shoe manufacturers have made great strides in the design of shoes to do both – I just feel that people’s opinions need to catch up. I usually advise to go to a specialist shop and try on all the types of shoe they have to see which one fits best, start with the shoe being a half a size smaller and go from there.

And so it was with new, redesigned 5.10 Rogue VCS  (http://fiveten.com/products/footwear-detail/14211-rogue-vcs-neon-blue-charcoal)shoes that popped onto my desk for review. My usual review size is a UK7.5 (EUR 41.5) as I can make a fair comparison for fit against other makes and models. I’ll come to fit later but first I’ll discuss styling. The 5.10 Rogue VCS  (http://fiveten.com/products/footwear-detail/14211-rogue-vcs-neon-blue-charcoal)is built on the legendary Anasazi last so it looks similar to the Anasazi velcro shoes but it has some distinguishable differences. The uppers are made of leather and not the Cowdura faux leather that is more usual in the 5.10 performance range. It must be noted however that the shoes have been designed as an all day comfort shoe that would suit beginners and climbers making the transition from climbing wall to outside, so leather works better in these situations as it stretches more as the day goes on and your feet getter bigger (they do as they heat up). This is a significant improvement on the 2010 model.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/5-10-vogue.jpg?w=225&h=300) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/5-10-vogue.jpg)Great friction and comfort with the 5.10 Vogue. The styling gives them more of a performance look than the more traditional beginners shoe so they would be great for trialling before you go straight into the more uncomfortable performance styles. The bright blue and charcoal colour combination looks good without it being too garish and is contrasted with bright green stitching and  closure loops. So the styling offers a performance look without the feel that you’ve got disco shoes on your feet.

The leather uppers have the advantage of allowing the shoe to breathe, this definitely is a good advantage over other models in the 5.10 range (not all are made from Cowdura) as they will not smell as bad over time. So I would always recommend for people with foot odour that they buy a leather upper climbing shoe. That said the tongue and some of the inside of the shoe is made from microfiber so they won’t have full breathablility. The tongue was well padded with a brushed velour lining that made it very comfortable. The velcro straps were also made from microfiber and fed through a hard plastic hole to give a good range of fitting options.

As I said earlier the 5.10 Rogue VCS  (http://fiveten.com/products/footwear-detail/14211-rogue-vcs-neon-blue-charcoal)has the same shape as the 5.10 Anasazi, my feeling is it isn’t as radially asymmetric as the Anasazi and this is what makes it more comfortable. The shoe has a complete rand and good coverage in the toe for toe hooking for foot jamming. The heel has been resigned from the 2010 model and fitted nicely, it performed reasonably well heelhooking. The heel was finished with an offset pull tab. This is again a remodel on the 2010 version that had two pull tabs. This one works much better because the shoes are easier to pull on and off and, more importantly, the shoes are bought together in a much more tidy fashion for clipping onto your harness. A nice touch.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/5-10-rogue-climb.jpg?w=225&h=300) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/5-10-rogue-climb.jpg)5.10 Rogue, comfortable for all day, multi pitch wear. The rubber is the legendary Stealth C4 and was very sticky on all the rock types I tested it on (Mountain Rhyolite, Gritstone and Limestone). The sole was very soft and I really felt this on long and multi pitch routes. The comfort was excellent but I could often feel sharp holds through the shoes and my feet got tired after a while.

The sole has no midsole stiffener so felt very soft and bendy. This was fine for indoor climbing but for someone who relies on footwork I found them much too soft for my style of climbing. Most of the time of the time this didn’t matter as I’m hanging around on lower grade climbs teaching people to multi pitch climb or lead. But as soon as I got into the VS range and above I felt that I needed a stiffer shoe. I haven’t climbed anything harder than HVS in these as I feel the shoes are not designed for harder climbs.

So to conclude – the 5.10 Rogue VCS  (http://fiveten.com/products/footwear-detail/14211-rogue-vcs-neon-blue-charcoal)is a great improvement on the 2010 model. They are supremely comfortable and will be a great beginner shoe for people just starting out and making that all important transition from climbing wall/gym to outdoor climbing. I have worn them for instructing, muliti pitch climbing to VS, single pitch climbing and sport climbing as well as bouldering and they have performed well. Do remember to size them appropriately as they will stretch over time and that they are definitely not a hard, performance shoe. The range comes in a lace up version for extra precision and a women’s specific version. Sizes UK 1-13 in half sizes and UK 14.

SRP £75

Stockists (http://fiveten.com/dealers/climbing)

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Title: DMM Thor – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on May 28, 2014, 07:00:15 pm
DMM Thor – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/05/28/dmm-thor-climbing-gear-review/)
28 May 2014, 12:10 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/dmm-climbing-logo-rgb.jpg?w=300&h=139) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/dmm-climbing-logo-rgb.jpg)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/dmm-thor-quickdraws.jpg?w=300&h=186) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/dmm-thor-quickdraws.jpg)

CGR test out the new and mighty DMM Thor quickdraw sets for all mountain use.

This biner is truly versatile, and could equally be used for trad, sport or winter climbing alike. If its extra security and robustness you are looking for, then this is an obvious choice.
Performance *****

Quality*****

Value****

Late last year CGR tested the latest sport climbing quickdraws from the DMM Alpha range the DMM Alpha Pro (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/10/23/dmm-alpha-sport-quickdraw-climbing-gear-review/). We concluded that apart from stick clipping issues it was a great sport climbing so it was great when a set of the new DMM Thor  (http://dmmclimbing.com/products/thor/)quickdraws landed on our desk for review.

DMM are world renowned for their well designed and high quality hardwear and the DMM Thor  (http://dmmclimbing.com/products/thor/)is no exception, based on the highly popular DMM Spectre 2  (http://dmmclimbing.com/products/spectre-2/)the differences are very subtle but useful.

The DMM Thor  (http://dmmclimbing.com/products/thor/)is a thicker and more robust carabiner than the Spectre 2. The differences this make are that it has a rating of a whopping 28kN against 24kN for the gate closed strength and a rating of 11kN against 9kN for the gate open strength. This one is more important as it could mean the difference as it gives you the same safety strength as a DMM Wallnut 3. The cross gate strength is similar to both with the Thor offering 7kN and the Spectre 2 8kN, this being due to the wire gate for both biners. If that’s worrying for you the Thor also comes with a Shadow top biner which ups the rating to 9kN (but drops the overall rating to 24kN). Confusing? Well just think of the DMM Thor  (http://dmmclimbing.com/products/thor/)as a mighty Norse version of the Spectre 2, beefed up and more robust.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/dmm-thor-spot-the-difference.jpg?w=300&h=168) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/dmm-thor-spot-the-difference.jpg)The DMM Spectre 2, Thor and Thor/Shadow. Spot the difference. So where does this extra strength come from? Well it comes from the additional thickness in key areas: the basket (the area where the rope lies or wire/tape lies depending on the which way round it is), the back bar and the tape end (where the quickdraw tape lies). These are all thicker areas than the Spectre and really make the DMM Thor so much stronger.

Although the styling is based on the DMM Spectre 2 (http://dmmclimbing.com/products/spectre-2/), the Thor definitely feels more large hand friendly even though they are the same size, so if you have large hands you are going to like the Thor biners. They also worked well with gloves on, I wear gloves a lot for winter climbing and my summer rock climbing work, so it’s important to have biners that work well with gloves on. The DMM Thor didn’t disappoint, this must have been down the small difference in the width. I have got these too early for winter climbing but I can already see these becoming my regular winter quickdraws. So a great handling quickdraw with or without gloves on.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/dmm-thor-wire-2.jpg?w=167&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/dmm-thor-wire-2.jpg)The DMM Thor handled very well in all test situations. Other styling differences are the nice ribbing on the back bar. We saw this in the DMM Alpha Pro  (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/10/23/dmm-alpha-sport-quickdraw-climbing-gear-review/)and it’s been reproduced in a similar fashion in the DMM Thor. It’s a small thing but does make a difference to the friction when clipping, helping to ensure the biner isn’t slipping around. There is also a slight grooving on the rope radius to ensure the rope sits in the right place. Other than that you’d need a close inspection to see where the extra thickness comes from. This extra thickness, of course comes with a weight difference with the Thor weighing at 36g which is 3g heavier than the Spectre 2 (33g).

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/dmm-thor-wire.jpg?w=225&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/dmm-thor-wire.jpg)The rope groove placed the rope perfectly. Here we show the Thor/Shadow combination The DMM Thor  (http://dmmclimbing.com/products/thor/)quickdraw set comes with the familiar 11mm Dyneema tape (rated 22kN) and the silver and gunmetal carabiner colour styling. With the silver being the carabiner that clips into the protection and the gunmetal the rope. The rope end is firmly held with a rubber insert (in fact so firmly that if can actually manage to get one out you‘ll be hard pushed to get it in again!). The colour range is same as the Spectre range with the 12cm coming in gold, the 18cm coming in grey and the 25cm coming in red. They come separately or in sets of 5.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/dmm-thor-biner.jpg?w=300&h=231) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/dmm-thor-biner.jpg)The DMM Thor – beautifully engineered. So, in conclusion I have no hesitation in awarding the DMM Thor  (http://dmmclimbing.com/products/thor/)quickdraws 5 stars for performance. I have used them for all my Trad climbing this season, they perform well enough for sport climbing (although they work better for on sighting as the thin Dyneema slings are not good for grabbing) and I feel they will perfom great in winter. The sets come with either a Thor top biner or a shadow top biner, my preference has definitely been for the wire gate Thor.

If you only want to buy one set of quickdraws that will serve all your climbing needs then the DMM Thor will not disappoint. And if  you are of a nervous disposition that extra thickness and the robust feel should give you extra confidence in you gear placements. If price is an issue then the sets are sold with a Shadow top biner and a Thor rope end.

SRP:

Thor prices:

Thor Carabiner – £8.50

12cm QD – £16.00

18cm QD – £16.60

25cm QD – £17.00

QD set 1 x 12cm, 3 x 18cm, 1 x 25cm – £75.00

QD set 12cm (5 pack) – £75.00

QD set 18cm (5 pack) – £75.00

 

Thor / Shadow QD

Shadow straight gate / Thor 12cm Combo QD – £16.00

Shadow straight gate / Thor 18cm Combo QD – £16.00

Stockists (http://dmmclimbing.com/retailers/)

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Title: Edelrid Zodiac Helmet – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on May 29, 2014, 01:00:13 pm
Edelrid Zodiac Helmet – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/05/29/edelrid-zodiac-helmet-climbing-gear-review/)
29 May 2014, 8:05 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/edelrid-01-4c-bg-20.jpg?w=300&h=81) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/edelrid-01-4c-bg-20.jpg)(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/unnamed1.jpg?w=255&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/unnamed1.jpg)

With improvements in fit and style and massive weight reductions, helmets are an increasingly common sight at the crag these days. Kasia Baldwin tests out the Zodiac Helmet from Edelrid…  Performance ????

Durability ?????

Value ?????

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/img_4397.jpg?w=388&h=388) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/img_4397.jpg)Edelrid Zodiac Helmet – comfortable and lightweight, great for rock climbing. A helmet is a personal thing and in my opinion if you get one that actually suits you it’s like winning the lottery. Okay so perhaps I shouldn’t go that far, and in truth whether you look good or not, that certainly isn’t the deciding factor on which one to get – though I still insist on a quick glance in the mirror when trying one on! As always your priorities when buying a helmet are that it fits and that it’s built for purpose. You can find out more here: https://www.thebmc.co.uk/new-helmet-guide-launched

Back to the Edelrid Zodiac helmet. This is the first Edelrid helmet I’ve tried and I love it. On first impressions it’s light and doesn’t feel too fragile, as though it will crack when stuffed in a rucksack with all my climbing kit – though of course you still need to be careful. The Zodiac is a hybrid helmet in that it’s made from an ABS shell outer and an expanded polystyrene foam inner shell. Plus it only weighs in at 359g (Edelrid’s Zodiac Lite weighs in at 335g). Whilst it’s not the lightest helmet on the market, at least I don’t feel like I’m carrying a brick on my head and I know it’s not going to blow away in the slightest of breezes – which I’ve witnessed can be a risk with some of the even lighter helmets that are now available.

So why do I love this helmet? For one it fits me and feels secure and comfortable, so that’s point one ticked off the check list. This is probably helped by the fact that the helmet has a ‘wing-fit’ system and an ergonomically-shaped interior with padding that can be removed if need be. I kept the relatively thin padding in and still have the spare padding it came with. This is very simple to remove and is simply held securely in place with small Velcro patches on the foam inner shell. The fit of the helmet is also really easy to adjust by simply turning the dial on the back of the cradle which sits neatly above the back of neck. This is where I’ll gripe a little in that it sits just wear my ponytail would usually be – but I get that with every helmet I’ve had so far and thus have to adjust my hair accordingly!

Time to tick off point two on my checklist – the hybrid element with an ABS outer means I can wear it climbing, ice-climbing and mountaineering – perfect. Edelrid also suggest this is a perfect helmet for those heading out to do a bit of Via Ferrata.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/p1090002.jpg?w=388&h=688) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/p1090002.jpg)Edelrid Zodiac Helmet – note the head torch clips and air vents. It currently comes in four colours; sahara, snow, icemint and oasis (orange, white, blue and green). I went for the classic ‘snow’ in order to keep cooler when used on summer days in the Alps. The helmet does also come with six vents for when things do heat up.

Other points to mention are that the chin strap is very easy to adjust but I did find the fastening could be stiff to undo at times, especially when wearing gloves in the winter where you can’t quite get the ‘pinch’ right first time. The cradle at the back of the helmet also sits nicely tucked into the main helmet shell when you’re packing it away. This means it doesn’t jut out and make it even more awkward to stuff in your pack. As for the head torch attachments – these are four fairly standard type clips which I’ve not had any trouble with so far.

It comes in one size to fit heads sized between 54cm to 62cm and of course it’s UIAA approved. Should I need to retire the Zodiac anytime soon during my adventures, I’ll certainly consider another one and think it is great value for money.


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Title: Mountain Hardwear Super Chockstone Jacket – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on May 29, 2014, 01:00:13 pm
Mountain Hardwear Super Chockstone Jacket – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/05/29/mountain-hardwear-super-chockstone-jacket-climbing-gear-review/)
29 May 2014, 11:40 am

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/unnamed.png?w=388) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/unnamed.png)(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/unnamed2.jpg?w=300&h=300) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/unnamed2.jpg)James Parkinson tests out a versatile softshell jacket from Mountain Hardwear; the Super Chockstone Jacket. Performance – *****

Durability – ****

Value – ****

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/photo-1.jpg?w=388&h=517) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/photo-1.jpg)

Spring in the UK: warm, cool, windy, calm, showery, dry – who knows what the weather’s going to

do?! For most days out, you’ll need protection from the wind and maybe the odd shower but do

you want to be burdened with the weight and limited breathability of a hardshell? The Mountain

Hardwear Super Chockstone jacket can be thrown on in the morning and forgotten about.

The Super Chockstone is a very lightweight softshell made from MH’s own Chockstone™

Doubleweave fabric. I found the fabric to be pretty wind resistant and had no issues with it on some

very blustery days in the Llanberis Pass. A proper winter wind might find its way through but for

spring to autumn it works fine. This level of air permeability means that the jacket is very breathable

or those uphill walk-ins, a big plus at this time of year. I also found that the DWR finish on the fabric

dealt well with the odd light shower, with rain actually beading up on the face. After about three

months of regular wear this doesn’t seem to have lost its effectiveness. I did find however that some pilling developed on the inside of the arms after a while – maybe not a massive problem but something to note. The fabric also has an SPF 50 rating so it would be good for the high mountains in summer – no frying on the glacier!

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/photo-3.jpg?w=388&h=688) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/photo-3.jpg)Mountain Hardware Super Chockstone Jacket – the DWR finish worked well! The cut is described as Active Fit and I guess that means pretty close-fitting. I wouldn’t want much

more under it than a base layer or t-shirt but you could go up a size if you’d want to throw a fleece

underneath. That said, it would go very well under a shell as a light mid layer. The fabric is quite

stretchy, so what might feel like a relatively tight fit shouldn’t hinder your movement when actually

climbing. I found the jacket moved pretty well with me; no problems with high reaches!

There’s a low profile hood that fits well under a helmet but which I’ve not actually used on the

hill. I’d say it would work best as a second hood when using the Super Chockstone jacket under an

insulating belay jacket when the weather closes in and you want all the layers you can get as I’d

prefer a hood that just goes over everything.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/photo-2.jpg?w=388&h=291) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/photo-2.jpg)Mountain Hardware Super Chockstone Jacket – great for climbing and scrambling. The waist has an elastic draw string that can be adjusted with one hand but as the jacket is close

fitting anyway, I didn’t feel the need to have the string particularly tight. The cuffs have an elastic

strip on them but no other adjustability. I found this to be fine but you might struggle to get the

cuffs over a bulky glove in cold weather. There are three zipped pockets on the jacket; two hand

warmer and one chest. The chest pocket is interesting in that it is mounted on the right hand side

of the main zip, not the left as is usual with single chest pockets. Apparently the reason for this is to

allow you to have things in this pocket as well as in pockets on any other jacket you may wear over it

and not have them bang together. Not an issue I’ve ever encountered but nice to see the Mountain

Hardwear designers thinking outside the box!

The Super Chockstone Jacket comes in three colours – Shark (grey with orange zips, the colour I

had), Azul Blue and Fuse Green.

As an outer layer for spring to autumn in the UK or for summer alpinism, the Mountain Hardwear Super Chockstone jacket is very good. Layer it under a shell and it will even take you into the fourth

season.

 


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Title: Patagonia Men’s Alpine Houdini Jacket – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on May 30, 2014, 07:00:06 am
Patagonia Men’s Alpine Houdini Jacket – Climbing Gear Review (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/05/30/patagonia-mens-alpine-houdini-jacket-climbing-gear-review/)
30 May 2014, 4:41 am

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/patagonia.jpg?w=388&h=84) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/patagonia.jpg)(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/85190_579-2.jpg?w=388&h=388) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/85190_579-2.jpg) So, you’re half way up Ben Nevis’s classic HVS, Centurion. It started out with sunshine but now the wind is howling and the rain drives horizontally towards the rock. You left your waterproof at the bottom to save on weight and bulk but now seek out a miraculous escape from the weather. Maybe an Alpine Houdini Jacket from Patagonia is just what you’re after?  Performance ????

Durability ??? and a half

Value ????

 

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/p1080885.jpg?w=388&h=250) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/p1080885.jpg)Patagonia Alpine Houdini Jacket – great lightweight wind and moisture protection, a brilliant hood and super simple too. Here on the summit of Pigne d’Arolla whilst ski mountaineering in the Valais region of the Swiss Alps.  

Patagonia say: “Featherweight, emergency storm protection for light-and-fast alpine endeavors, the Alpine Houdini® Jacket disappears when clipped to your harness, then deploys to shed wind and precip when your weather window closes.”

Ok, so the Alpine Houdini Jacket from Patagonia is a really versatile jacket. Because it weighs next to nothing and packs down to the size of an orange, I really don’t mind carrying it. I’ve used the Alpine Houdini Jacket both as an emergency shell on days when I wasn’t expecting bad weather but also as my main shell as well. Due to the fact that it’s windproof but also waterproof to a hydrostatic head of 10000mm I could trust that it would keep me dry and cut out any wind chill. As such I’ve used it for fell running, rock climbing, alpine climbing and ski touring. It’s certainly a pretty minimalist piece though and if you’re planning on being out in the pouring rain for hours on end, then most people will want a full on hardshell. But the Alpine Houdini is designed as emergency protection after all.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/10380283_10152424125800552_2675832513800854414_n.jpg?w=388&h=517) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/10380283_10152424125800552_2675832513800854414_n.jpg)Patagonia Alpine Houdini Jacket – light and comfortable weather protection, great for rock climbing in. Due to the fact that the Alpine Houdini Jacket is so minimalist, it’s drawn quite a lot of attention from friends who joked that was like tissue paper and I’d be papier mâchéd if it was to rain or it was like a sandwich bag! Well, they were wrong on both counts! I’ve used the Alpine Houdini Jacket in some pretty heavy rain and snow conditions and it has kept me dry, both from precipitation outside and sweat inside. And I was sceptical about how waterproof and breathable the laminated membrane would be. I suppose the only concern I have now is about how durable the waterproofing will turn out to be as I seem to be wearing it an awful lot (yes, I do love it!) but I suppose only time will tell.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/10173797_10152424124260552_5650080693068850352_n.jpg?w=388&h=517) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/10173797_10152424124260552_5650080693068850352_n.jpg)Patagonia Alpine Houdini Jacket – about to tackle some drizzly rock climbing in Pembroke. So why do I love the Alpine Houdini Jacket so much? Well, as I’ve already said, it’s light, small and protects me from the wind and rain. It’s also incredibly simple. Elastic cuffs, full length zip, awesome helmet compatible hood and one inner chest pocket that the jacket stuffs into complete with harness clip loop. The zipper has a glove friendly tab and the hood and drawcord have simple elastic drawcord closure systems. And that’s it, all in a 187g package. What’s not to like?

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/85190_579_stuff.jpg?w=300&h=300) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/85190_579_stuff.jpg)Patagonia Alpine Houdini Jacket – packs in to its own chest pocket so you can easily clip it to the back of your harness. The only real downside is that a jacket like this won’t last forever. I’ve put a small hole near the cuff of mine already and lots of rough rock climbing probably isn’t going to do it any favours but it’s not meant to be a wear it all the time type of garment. It just so happens I have been and I suppose considering the amount of wear it has had so far, it’s actually doing remarkably well.

So to sum things up, the Alpine Houdini Jacket from Patagonia is a super light, compressible emergency rain shell. Perfect for clipping to the back of your harness for some “just in case” weather protection on long rock or Alpine routes, trail running, hiking and ski touring. Don’t expect lots of pockets and faffy features but do expect lightweight simplicity.

 

 

 

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Title: Mammut MTR 141 Thermo Jacket and MTR 141 Hybrid Pants – Trail Running Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on June 05, 2014, 01:00:18 am
Mammut MTR 141 Thermo Jacket and MTR 141 Hybrid Pants – Trail Running Gear Review (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/06/04/mammut-mtr-141-thermo-jacket-and-mtr-141-hybrid-pants-trail-running-gear-review/)
4 June 2014, 8:27 pm

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/mammut-logo.jpg?w=388&h=322) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/12/mammut-logo.jpg) A while ago we reviewed a few pieces of kit from the Mammut MTR range, a range of gear aimed at trail runners. You can read those reviews here (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/08/27/mammut-mtr71-trail-running-shorts-and-mtr-201-mens-long-sleeved-zip-top-trail-running-gear-review/). During the Spring months I’ve been lucky enough to test a couple more products from this range, the Mammut MTR 141 Thermo Jacket and 141 Hybrid Pants. MTR 141 Thermo Jacket from Mammut (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/66984_00_d.jpg?w=388&h=388) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/66984_00_d.jpg)

Performance ????

Durability ????

Value ????

Mammut say: “The warm, elastic PowerStretch  fleece material is ideal for long runs in cool temperatures. The windproof, very light 10-denier micro fabric on the front prevents rapid cooling in cold winds. Lightweight,fast-drying jersey inserts under the arms provide optimal temperature regulation.The offset shoulder seams guarantee  a perfect fit while clever details such as reflective logos and easily stowable finger gaiters make the MTR 141 an ideal running partner.”

I’ve worn the MTR 141 Thermo Jacket from Mammut for lots of runs on cold days in the hills and love how comfortable it feels and the way that it helps to regulate my core temperature. The balance between windproofness, breathability and warmth makes it ideal for trail, fell and road runs in cooler weather or on on days when the windchill is proving a little too much! I’ve worn mine for cold morning runs from my house or when running in the hills of Snowdonia and the Lake District.

 

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/img_4778.jpg?w=388&h=291) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/img_4778.jpg)Mammut MTR 141 Thermo Jacket – great for long runs in the hills, particularly on cool and windy days. The Power Stretch fleece insulates effectively but also breathes well. The fit is a close one but the fabric is stretchy and moves with your body. I did find the sizing to be on the small side though, but I think this only felt that way across the chest and this is perhaps because the windproof panel on the front (which is great keeping the wind off), doesn’t stretch the same way that the Power Stretch fabric underneath does. I really liked just having this front windproof panel though as I sometimes find that a full windproof makes me overheat, even in quite cool winds. The lighter wicking fabric used on the underarms is also a nice touch and adds to the comfort of the MTR 141Thermo Jacket.

On really cold days I’ve worn this jacket next to the skin and it has performed brilliantly but the close fit does also allow for layering as well and it works fine with a thin baselayer underneath.

Going back to the cut, I really like the length (the jacket is hip length) as it keeps my lower back and kidney area well insulated and doesn’t ride up. I found the full length zip very smooth to use and also useful for further ventilation if things got a bit warmer. The collar gave a nice snug fit around my neck without feeling restrictive.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/img_4767.jpg?w=388&h=517) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/img_4767.jpg)Mammut MTR 141 Thermo Jacket – super comfortable cuff and thumb loops. Other features I like are the super comfortable cuffs and thumb loops which are really cosy but don’t feel like they add extra bulk when not in use.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/img_4773.jpg?w=388&h=291) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/img_4773.jpg)Mammut MTR 141 Thermo Jacket I would recommend the MTR 141 Thermo Jacket from Mammut to anybody who runs in cooler weather be it on road or trail. It is not an item that should be pigeon holed though as it also perfect for cold weather walking and climbing as well as ski touring, cross country skiing and cycling.

 

 Mammut MTR 141 Hybrid Pants (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/sol_007-0208_pic1_1.jpg?w=388&h=291) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/sol_007-0208_pic1_1.jpg)

Performance ??? and a half

Durability ????

Value ????

Mammut say: “The lightweight, elastic materials in the Mammut MTR 141 Hybrid Pants provide unrestricted, warmth and protection. Once again, the cosy and stretchable Power Stretch fleece material is used to keep the legs warm. If the weather suddenly worsens, the laminated and waterproof polyamide fabric offers optimum protection from the elements. Knee folds backed with mesh also ensure great freedom of movement and excellent ventilation. Another sophisticated detail is the zip on the legs to adjust the width, ensuring an equally good fit for both easy ski tours and trail running.“

So, when I first received the  Mammut MTR 141 Hybrid Pants, I was a bit sceptical, thinking they looked what some of my friends call “a bit Euro” in their styling and also (being a fan of simplicity) that they also looked a bit overdesigned. I was actually wrong on both counts, and once I got over the slightly unusual styling, I found that these pants are actually brilliant!

Fitting somewhere between a (super technical) running tight and a jogging pant, the Mammut MTR 141 Hybrid Pants have some interesting features. The upper leg, down to the knee is produced in Power Stretch and gives a close (but not tight) fit providing efficient thermal properties and great freedom of movement, with a well thought out, paneled construction and great articulation in the knees. Over the front of the entire trouser (for the whole length) is added a waterproof polyamide fabric to keep both the wind and moisture at bay. This fabric is used on the whole of the lower leg to protect whilst running through mud and long wet grass etc. The lower leg also has zippered gussets so that the pants can work over boots and ski boots although I still found them too neat even with the zips open, to fit properly over my ski touring boots.

Running in cold and dry or cold, damp and windy conditions is when the  Mammut MTR 141 Hybrid Pants truly come into their own. I did find that they can quickly become too warm in anything but cooler conditions and the waterproof polyamide fabric made them feel a bit sweaty in these sorts of conditions.

Once again I wouldn’t pigeon hole these pants as just being for running. They’re also great for cool weather walks, cross country skiing and even climbing.

If you are a runner who is looking for an alternative to the traditional winter tight, then these could be just the thing for you!

 

 

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Title: Arc’teryx Alpha Comp Hoody – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on June 05, 2014, 07:00:18 pm
Arc’teryx Alpha Comp Hoody – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/06/05/arcteryx-alpha-comp-hoody-climbing-gear-review/)
5 June 2014, 3:43 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx1.jpg?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx1.jpg)(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/unnamed.png?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/02/unnamed.png)

 

Earlier this year we ran a news item about the release of the Alpha Comp Hoody hybrid softshell jacket from Canadian brand, Arc’teryx. You can read that news here (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/02/11/arcteryx-alpha-comp-jacket-and-pants-climbing-gear-news/). Well, we’ve also been lucky enough to put one to the test in the mountains! So how did it perform?  Performance ****

Durability ****

Value ****

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/p3200237.jpg?w=388&h=291) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/p3200237.jpg)Arc’teryx Alpha Comp Hoody – great for technical climbing in cold, dry conditions. Here seen in action about to tackle the snow mushroom on the Ice Bulge pitch of the 1938 Route, Eiger North Face, Switzerland. Arc’teryx say that the Alpha Comp Hoody is a: “Composite construction jacket with versatile thermal management and zonal weather protection in a single garment.“

So what exactly do they mean by ‘composite construction’? Put simply, it is all about combining two materials in a way that is supposed to maximise the benefits of each one. In the Alpha Comp Hoody, Arc’teryx have combined their own Fortius 1.0 stretch woven softshell fabric with a N40p 3L laminated GORE® Product Technology fabric. This means that some areas of the jacket are fully water and wind proof, and some are not.

So which bits are which and what is the thinking behind this composite construction?

The hem, sleeves, shoulders and hood are produced in the waterproof Gore fabric, whilst the main body back and inner arms are produced using Fortius 1.0 stretch woven softshell fabric. The idea is that the shoulders, arms, hood and hem are the places that are most exposed to snow and dripping water. The rest of the jacket can benefit from the enhanced freedom of movement and breathability that Fortius 1.0 affords. This is especially useful when carrying a pack etc as moisture (I mean sweat here) moves more readily through Fortius 1.0 than through the Gore waterproof fabric.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/p3190191.jpg?w=388&h=517) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/p3190191.jpg)Arc’teryx Alpha Comp Hoody – the pockets didn’t interfere with a pack, the breathable Fortius 1.0 fabric on the back kept me comfortable and the great cut and harness Hemlock feature made this a great technical climbing jacket. So hopefully you get the idea behind the composite construction. It’s designed to be the kind of jacket that once you’ve put on at the start of your day, you don’t need to take off. It offers enough weather protection if things turn out badly but also enough comfort and freedom of movement if you are moving quickly or climbing technical ground.

So, this great in lots of respects but not so great in others. However, before I go through the ins and outs of why, please do remember that this is a pretty specialist piece of kit from Arc’teryx’s Alpha range, a climbing and alpine focused series of clothing. It’s not a hill walking waterproof or a dog walking jacket!

I’ve pretty much used the Alpha Comp Hoody in two different environments. The cold, (mainly) dry European Alps and the often damp (read that as chucking it down!), fluctuating temperature levels of the UK mountains.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/p1020890.jpg?w=388&h=517) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/p1020890.jpg)Arc’teryx Alpha Comp Hoody – could handle the odd bit of precipitation when it needed to! Let’s start with the use in the Alps. I’ve used the Alpha Comp Hoody for climbing and ski mountaineering in the European Alps during the past winter and spring and this is exactly what the jacket is designed for. I’ve used it for day hits climbing goulottes in Chamonix, ice falls, descents of the Valee Blanche on skis and chose to take it as my shell of choice on the Eiger North Face. As it was never raining or even forecast to rain, during any of these endeavours, I was quite happy that I did not need the protection of a full on hard shell. I did encounter snowfall during some of these days but as they weren’t huge wet flakes, the Alpha Comp coped fine. I also encountered drips from melting ice but these usually hit the strategically placed waterproof Gore fabric rather than the Fortius 1.0, with the DWR repelling anything effectively that did hit the softshell fabric. Any spindrift pummeling that I took whilst climbing gullies, was easily parried by the Gore fabric and the awesome helmet compatible hood and again the Fortius did it’s job, stretching with my body and breathing well when I was working hard.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/p3190200.jpg?w=388&h=291) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/p3190200.jpg)Arc’teryx Alpha Comp Hoody – the composite construction breathes well and moves with your body when you’re working hard. Here in use on the lower slopes of the 1938 Route, Eiger North Face. So what was it like in the UK and is it any good for the Scottish winter climbing enthusiasts amongst us? Well first of all it’s important to note that this is not a waterproof jacket and if you are heading out for a prolonged period in heavy rain then you will get wet! I tried it and did! That is not to say it is useless for UK users. You just have to weigh up the pros and cons based on the day, routes, weather forecast etc. I’m much more of a fan of climbing in softshell or hybrid style jackets as I find them more comfortable than a full hardshell. I would tend to use a jacket like this in the UK (Scottish winter etc) unless it was forecast to be full on wetness all day long. Unfortunately this winter in Scotland has been just that, so I’ve not used the Alpha Comp on many perfect days but the ones where I’ve taken a punt, it’s been absolutely fine and the benefits for me have far outweighed the little bit of moisture I’ve had to contend with. I do know a lot of other folk who will only climb in a hardshell in Scotland though so it’s down to a question of taste here. And as I said earlier, I wouldn’t consider it myself if I knew the day was going to be out and out wet.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/img_3981.jpg?w=388&h=517) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/img_3981.jpg)Arc’teryx Alpha Comp Hoody – perfect for those rare crisp winter days in the UK. Here on the summit of Tryfan, North Wales. One of the big tests for me was using this jacket on the Eiger North face. I was unsure of whether to take a full on hardshell for this route so I weighed up the pros and cons. I knew we had a 3 day long clear weather window and that we aimed to climb the face in 2 days, spending one night bivvying. I knew that it was forecast to be dry, calm and clear and that we’d be moving together most of the time, so energy output would be high and I’d want good breathability to remain comfortable and not overheat. I also knew that there’d be the chance of spindrift though so I did want some moisture protection. I also needed a well cut jacket that wouldn’t hold me back on the harder pitches. I didn’t want to carry a hardshell and a softshell as this would be extra weight, so I went for the Alpha Comp Hoody and it proved to be the perfect choice for this route and weather conditions.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/p3190210.jpg?w=388&h=291) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/p3190210.jpg)Arc’teryx Alpha Comp Hoody – well cut for technical climbing and durable as well. Here showing it’s full credentials on the Difficult Crack, 1938 Route, Eiger North Face. Moving on to other features of the Alpha Comp Hoody…

The athletic fit and stretch fabric mean it is great for technical rock, ice and mixed climbing. It is moves with your body and doesn’t ride up when you are climbing, or feel restrictive in any way. The zipper works smoothly and seals out the elements when needed and the micro zipper tabs works with gloved hands. As I said earlier, the hood is awesome and worked even over the top of my skiing helmet. The adjustable drawcords gave a great fit whether over just my hair or a helmet. The zippered pockets, 2 handpockets and 1 chest pocket, gave sufficient storage options and didn’t interfere with a pack or a harness.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/img_4355.jpg?w=388&h=388) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/img_4355.jpg)Arc’teryx Alpha Comp Hoody – an awesome helmet compatible hood. It was also great to see one of my favourite Arc’teryx jacket features on the Alpha Comp Hoody. The harness Hemlock inserts. Although the jacket is well cut and there is very little riding up anyway, I find this simple feature brilliant for keeping the jacket sitting neatly under my climbing harness. The hem drawcord works effectively to seal out snow and wind from underneath too and the high quality velcro cuffs are simple and do the job.

Ok, to sum things up. The Alpha Comp Hoody is a great jacket for high output technical climbing where breathability, protection from occasional snow and spindrift and durability are all required in a lightweight package. Basically the sort of weather, climbing and conditions you get in the European Alps. It is not a waterproof jacket and as such, has limitations for UK use, although it is perfect for those rare blue sky Scottish winter days. The cut, hood and quality are all awesome, just as you’d expect from a brand like Arc’teryx. All in all it is a specialist piece but if you can afford the luxury of having one, go for it!


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Title: Haglöfs Spring/Summer Range 2014 – Climbing Gear News
Post by: comPiler on June 10, 2014, 01:00:10 pm
Haglöfs Spring/Summer Range 2014 – Climbing Gear News (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/06/10/haglofs-springsummer-range-2014-climbing-gear-news/)
10 June 2014, 10:58 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/unnamed.jpg?w=388&h=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/unnamed.jpg)

 

CGR recently visited Haglöfs Head Office to take a sneaky peek at what they had in store for climbers and mountaineers for the coming Spring/Summer season… Haglöfs have a great range of products out there for climbers and mountaineers and CGR were lucky enough to be given a thorough tour through some of the hottest picks for this Spring and Summer. From lightweight hardshells, down and synthetic insulation, softshells and base layers, there is definitely something to suit everyone. Here is a run down of our favorites.

 

ROC LITE PULL (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/6024172gv_ss14_roclitepull.png?w=388&h=483) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/6024172gv_ss14_roclitepull.png)

The lightest shell jacket in our Mountain concept, the Roc Lite Pull strikes the perfect balance between weight, durability, and protection. It uses breathable 3L GORE-TEX® Pro, and we’ve included thoughtful technical details.

RRP: £330

Find out more at the Haglöfs website. (http://www.haglofs.com/en-US/products/clothing/activities/mountain/men/roc_lite_pull_en-us.aspx)

CGR says: Lightweight smock style, 3 layer hardshell. Tough, breathable and simple with a half zip, large front pocket, great hood and hemline that won’t interfere with a harness. Great for light and fast missions in foul weather.

 

SKARN HOOD (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/6022012gv_fw13ss14_skarnhood.png?w=388&h=483) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/6022012gv_fw13ss14_skarnhood.png)

A versatile and durable, full stretch soft shell jacket with excellent comfort.

  RRP: £150

Find out more at the Haglöfs website (http://www.haglofs.com/en-US/products/clothing/activities/mountain/men/skarn_hood_en-us.aspx).

CGR says: A great softshell which is really tough, stretchy and versatile. Just as happy scraping up granite chimneys as it is navigating on the Cairngorm plateau. Perfect for a wide variety of mountain activities. We particularly like the thumb loops :)

 

MYLONITE PANT (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/6024212at_ss14_mylonitepant.png?w=388&h=483) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/6024212at_ss14_mylonitepant.png)

A versatile three-season pant, the Mylonite Pant embraces nature with a bluesign® designation. Designed with articulated knees and a gusseted crotch, it offers superior freedom of movement, as well as thoughtful tech detailing.

  RRP: £170

Find out more at the Haglöfs website. (http://www.haglofs.com/en-US/products/clothing/activities/mountain/men/mylonite_pant_en-us.aspx)

CGR says: An awesome technical softshell trouser, perfect for all your Spring/Summer Alpine endeavors. The knee patches feel indestructible and the cut and stretchy fabric make them awesome for technical climbing.

 

L.I.M ESSENS JACKET (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/6025072a8_ss14_l-i-messensjacket.png?w=388&h=483) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/6025072a8_ss14_l-i-messensjacket.png)

The L.I.M Essens Jacket is our premier down jacket when each gram counts. Every detail is attended to: the shell is extremely lightweight and tough, with articulated sleeves for movement. 800-fill goose down offers a warm embrace.

  RRP: £200

Find out more at the Haglöfs website. (http://www.haglofs.com/en-US/products/clothing/activities/trekking/men/l_i_m_essens_jacket_en-us.aspx)

CGR says: Simply put, this is luxury! It weighs next to nothing (180g) but is incredibly warm too! Perfect as an extra layer on those cold Alpine mornings, or throwing on at night around the campsite. Beautiful!

L.I.M BARRIER PRO HOOD (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/6025052c2_fw14_l-i-mbarrierprohood.png?w=388&h=483) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/6025052c2_fw14_l-i-mbarrierprohood.png)

The L.I.M Barrier Pro Jacket is our most lightweight, minimalist, and packable hooded jacket. Featuring our superior QuadFusion+ insulation, it offers an extraordinarily warmth-to-weight ratio for those cold excursions.

  RRP: £200

Find out more at the Haglöfs website (http://www.haglofs.com/en-US/products/clothing/activities/trekking/men/l_i_m_barrier_pro_ho_en-us.aspx).

CGR says: An incredibly versatile layering piece, that can be worn as a mid or outer layer. It is way warmer than it looks and at 200g, very light as well. The close fitting hood fits well under a climbing helmet.

L.I.M POWER DRY HOOD (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/6025132c2_ss14_l-i-mpowerdryhood.png?w=388&h=483) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/6025132c2_ss14_l-i-mpowerdryhood.png)

 

This L.I.M Jacket features Polartec® PowerDry® fabric, keeping you warm and dry through every adventure. Simply put, it is our most lightweight and forgiving hooded mid-layer, and it promises many seasons and stories to tell!

  RRP: £120

Find out more at the Haglöfs website (http://www.haglofs.com/en-US/products/clothing/activities/trekking/men/l_i_m_power_dry_hood_en-us.aspx).

CGR says: My personal favourite piece! This is awesome as a light midlayer or a heavier baselayer. The fabric feels amazing next to your skin, wicks well and dries quickly. The balaclava style hood is super comfy as are the awesome thumb loops.

 

RUGGED II MOUNTAIN PANT (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/6026072c5_ss14_ruggediimountainpant.png?w=388&h=483) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/6026072c5_ss14_ruggediimountainpant.png)

Extremely durable, fully featured stretchy hybrid trekking pant

RRP: £150

Find out more at the Haglöfs website (http://www.haglofs.com/en-US/products/clothing/activities/trekking/men/rugged_ii_mountain_pant_en-us.aspx).

CGR says: A rework of an old favourite. These are a brilliant workhorse mountain pant that feels indestructible. Really comfy and well featured. Classic!

 

 

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Title: Patagonia Ascensionist 25 Pack – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on June 11, 2014, 01:00:07 pm
Patagonia Ascensionist 25 Pack – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/06/11/patagonia-ascensionist-25-pack-climbing-gear-review/)
11 June 2014, 11:05 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/patagonia.jpg?w=388&h=84) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/patagonia.jpg)(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/47960_303.jpg?w=388&h=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/47960_303.jpg)

Having been one of the leading lights in Alpine apparel for many years, Patagonia’s first range of dedicated alpine climbing packs has been a long time coming. So has it been worth wait? Well, CGR tested out the Ascensionist 25 Pack from Patagonia on everything from days out cragging in the Yorkshire Dales to multi day technical alpine missions, in order to find out…  Performance *****

Durability ****

Value *****

Patagonia say: “Ideal as a leader pack on done-in-a-day alpine routes, the streamlined Ascensionist 25L is perfect for everything from long, granite ascents in the Bugaboos to a day-push on El Capitan.”

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/p32002371.jpg?w=388&h=291) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/p32002371.jpg)Patagonia Ascensionist 25 Pack – great for technical alpine climbing. Here it is being put to the test on the 1938 Route, Eiger North Face. One of the downsides of many of today’s technical and fully featured “climbing” packs is that they are just too complicated, too fussy and in a nutshell, too heavy. Many of them weigh well over a kilogram even before you put anything in them! Weight is generally pretty critical when alpine climbing if you are to move fast and stay safe. Also, carrying a bulky, heavy pack whilst technical climbing is not going to be the most pleasant experience or going to allow you to climb your best.

 

Personally I like to use a small pack of 25-30 litre capacity for most of my Scottish winter and alpine climbing. I suppose I’m quite efficient at packing, I’m quite confident about what I do and don’t need, and I don’t mind strapping items such as the rope, to the outside on an approach. I would rather do this and then have a nice light, empty pack on the climb. I know that when I am climbing, most of my gear will be in use, not in my bag, meaning that this sits comfortably out of the way, on my back.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/p3200246.jpg?w=388&h=291) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/p3200246.jpg)Patagonia Ascensionist 25 Pack – allows you to carry all you need but move unhindered. Here in use on the Traverse of the Gods, 1938 Route, Eiger North Face. So, to the Ascensionist 25 Pack from Patagonia. Bearing in mind what I just said about empty packs being heavy, I was absolutely over the moon when I first lifted the Ascensionist 25 out of the box and realised that when empty, it really didn’t weigh very much at all. Patagonia quote 349g on their website and this really is light for a 25 litre pack.

They haven’t scrimped on features either. There are twin ice axe attachment points with simple elastics to secure the shafts. The loops for securing the axe heads are adjustable as well, thus giving a better and more secure fit for modern hammerless and adzeless tools. There is a single lid pocket to keep energy bars, topo, suncream etc all handy and this is secured with a glove friendly zipper. Daisy chains run down the front and sides of the pack and these can be used to attach extra kit. If you are taking a bivi pad for example, just add some crisscrossed bungee elastic to the daisy chains. The same system can be used to secure your crampons to the front.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/p31902001.jpg?w=388&h=204) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/p31902001.jpg)Patagonia Ascensionist 25 Pack – can be over-packed with rope and bivi pad strapped to the outside when on the approach or soloing up less technical terrain.  

Other features include a removable and adjustable waistbelt and chest strap, padded shoulder straps and simple padded back. There is also the option of moving the main closure strap when the bag is over-packed so that you can lash the rope to the top. This is simple and easy to do, but also secure. I personally have used this feature quite a lot and really like it.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/photo1.jpg?w=388&h=520) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/photo1.jpg)Patagonia Ascensionist 25 Pack – rope lashed to the outside. Whilst the Ascensionist 25 Pack has all the features I need for a day of alpine climbing, it’s simplicity is still it’s greatest feature. One thing I look for in all packs is how easy it is, to actually pack my kit into it. Whether that be a chalk bag, harness, shoes and a bunch of quickdraws for a day sport climbing or shovel, probe, rope and rescue gear for a day of ski touring, I want it all to fit in the pack with minimum fuss, effort and bulk. I have used the Ascensionist 25 Pack for both cragging and ski touring as well as alpine day routes and it really is easy to pack. I find a lot of other packs, with all the different organisational compartments can actually be more difficult to use as you just end up with lots of dead space in the pack and extra weight from all the extra material needed to make it. Not so with this one. It is essentially a big stuff sack with a nice wide opening at the neck and this makes packing super simple :) .

Whilst on the subject of packing and also the neck of the pack, it is worth pointing out the way in which the Ascensionist range has been designed. It has what Patagonia call “an asymmetrical spindrift collar” and this means that fabric is saved as the lid is actually just part of the main body. This again saves weight and also gets rid of any seams and stitching that would have been required if the pack was constructed in the usual way. The collar cinches down to protect your kit (this can be done with one hand) but will stand up and accommodate any over-packing should you need it to.

Here is a great video of Patagonia ambassador, Steve House talking through all the features of the Ascensionist 25 Pack:

I found this feature to be very useful and it came in handy for multi day routes where I had to pack the Ascensionist 25 to the max, particularly on the approach to the climb. I used the Ascensionist 25 pack on a 2 day ascent of the classic 1938 Route on the Eiger’s infamous North Face. When choosing my pack I knew I needed something that would be able to transport all my technical climbing gear, sleeping bag, bivi pad and bivi bag, stove, water, food, headtorch, spare clothes and other essentials to the base of and then up the climb itself. The actual approach to this climb isn’t that long so I also knew that a lot of the climbing kit would be in use after the first hour so the pack would only have to cope with a bit of over-packing until then. I then wanted something that was simple, comfortable and streamlined for when I was actually climbing. The Ascenionist 25 Pack seemed like the obvious choice and performed brilliantly on this route. It never felt like I needed to take it off or that it got in the way, even on the crux pitches.

It’s not a comfortable backpacking pack though so if you are carry a heavy load for a few hours to a base and climbing from there, then you might want to consider the Ascenionist 35 or 45 instead. It is totally ideal for one to two day light and fast, technical alpine routes though.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/p3200235.jpg?w=388&h=601) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/p3200235.jpg)Patagonia Ascensionist 25 Pack – tough enough to deal with thrutchy corners and chimneys and streamlined so it doesn’t get in the way. Here on the Waterfall Pitch, 1938 Route, North Face of the Eiger. Okay, so what are the downsides of this pack? Well firstly there is not a lot of padding but again, this isn’t really that sort of pack and a bit of careful packing will make sure those spiky bits of kit don’t end up poking in your back. Secondly it’s not the toughest pack in the world, but actually considering it’s lack of weight, it’s not doing too bad either. Mine only has a couple of small abrasion holes in it from some rough alpine chimneying and the ripstop fabric has stopped this going any further.

So to conclude…

My first experience of Patagonia’s Ascensionist pack range gets a huge thumbs up! Light, simple and innovative, it has all the features you need for a day of UK cragging, winter climbing or technical alpine mixed routes and none of the features you don’t. If you’re one of those folk who always has a huge rucksack, regardless of what you’re doing, take the plunge, ditch the ‘spare sets of everything’ and enjoy the freedom a pack like this can offer you. I can’t wait to get out and use mine again!

 

 


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Title: Black Diamond Aspect Harness – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on June 16, 2014, 01:00:06 pm
Black Diamond Aspect Harness – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/06/16/black-diamond-aspect/)
16 June 2014, 7:16 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/blackdiamond_standrd_neg.jpg?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/blackdiamond_standrd_neg.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/651058_aspect_dblul_web.jpg?w=300&h=270) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/651058_aspect_dblul_web.jpg) Dave takes a close look at the all season Aspect harness from Black Diamond
Ice routes in Canmore. Sport climbs in Rodellar. Splitters at Indian Creek. For those who climb it all, all year long, the Black Diamond Aspect provides four-season performance and comfort with our Dual Core XP Construction™.
Performance ****

Versality****

Value****

I generally have two harnesses, one for my UK winter climbing and instruction work and one for my personal climbing. The Black Diamond Aspect  (http://eu.blackdiamondequipment.com/en/climbing-harnesses/aspect-harness-BD651058_cfg.html?dwvar_BD651058__cfg_color=Deep_Blue#start=7)harness falls into the latter, I’ve been using it for all my rock and ice climbing throughout the winter season.

A climbing harness needs to fulfill many requirements: safety (it’s the link between you and the rope), comfort (you are often wearing it all day) and utility (it needs to organise and make gear selection easy). So you need to think carefully about what climbing activities you will be enjoying and buy a harness to suit.

Black Diamond have done a good job with the Aspect harness of creating an all-round harness, with minimal fuss and weight. The specified weight is 410g and the CGR scales weighed it in at 389g, wow! It has nice styling and I liked the ergonomic back.

The harness is made using Black Diamonds Dual Core XP technology; this uses thin webbing with, what felt like, 5mm of EVA foam (a plastic with a wide commercial and medical applications but you will probably know it from a foam sleeping mat). This gave plenty of comfort and support but not much ventilation.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/aspect-trad.jpg?w=388) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/aspect-trad.jpg)The waistbelt was plenty comfortable for long trad routes. The waistbelt was very comfortable to wear and I could hang around for lengthy belay sessions both on multi pitch routes and ground belays. It cinched tight with a 20mm webbed belt and the colour co-ordinated, self locking buckle gave a very smooth operation. The excess webbing was tucked away with two, well designed loops situated on the left hand side. I am a 32/33” waist and the harness was a size Medium, it fitted nicely even with several winter layers.

The tie loops were burly and well stitched giving plenty of confidence, all stress points were heavily bar tacked. I’ve been doing plenty of falling in this harness and it’s been great. The abseil loop was also very burly; double looped and plenty of stitching and bar tacked finished.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/aspect-sport-climbing-e1402144855837.jpg?w=388&h=291) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/aspect-sport-climbing-e1402144855837.jpg)Super comfy for sports routes, even long multi pitch ones. The leg loops on the Black Diamond Aspect  (http://eu.blackdiamondequipment.com/en/climbing-harnesses/aspect-harness-BD651058_cfg.html?dwvar_BD651058__cfg_color=Deep_Blue#start=7)were made with the same Dual Core XP technology and were comfortable, easily adjusted with the excess tucked away with two loops. I did find the first loop a little on the large size and found the excess was often dangling around, especially in winter when I’m often wearing more clothing around my legs. This wasn’t too much of an issue when rock climbing as I usually have the leg loops tighter around my legs.

The leg loops were attached at the seat with 10mm elasticated webbing. These were secured with a hook and were easy to undo but not so easy to put back on. This does make toilet visits easy and the loops were fine an a warm rock climbing day, but fiddly in winter (when I’m more likely to want a toilet stop). To be honest though, I’ve never come across the ideal arrangement for this on any harness I’ve tested and I try to avoid defecating on or around the crag at all costs.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/aspect-racked-e1402144718678.jpg?w=388&h=217) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/aspect-racked-e1402144718678.jpg)The gear loops were plenty big enough for most racks. The gear loops were made form pre moulded, clear plastic tubing which worked really well. It’s now an established feature on the entire Black Diamond range and the Aspect harness was no different. They racked quickdraws perfectly for sport climbing and could hold an entire trad rack with no problems. I really liked the gear loops on this harness, the equal distribution of gear with no crowing in the middle or forcing down to the front.

The Black Diamond Aspect  (http://eu.blackdiamondequipment.com/en/climbing-harnesses/aspect-harness-BD651058_cfg.html?dwvar_BD651058__cfg_color=Deep_Blue#start=7)harness had 4 ice clipper slots, the front two were poorly sited and I never used them. When the harness was tightened it but the ice screws over my front thigh (which had be worrying whether the teeth were going to pierce my expensive pants). I only used the the better sited loops that were placed between the gear loops. There was also a rear loop made from 4mm cord, this was plenty big enough to put plenty of kit on the back of the harness – approach shoes, belay gloves, screwgates, etc. My only minor complaint with this is that it was fiddly to access kit with a chalk bag on and if the biner nose wasn’t ‘clean’ it snagged. There was also a 12kn haul loop on the back for hauling sleds and pucks (but shouldn’t be used for clipping a chalk bag on as the biner can really hurt your back if it’s forced in by falling)

So in conclusion I think Black Diamond have created a good all-round harness that would be suitable for most of you climbing adventures. My preference has been to use it for rock climbing for which it has been brilliant. I found it a little lacking for UK winter climbing (where more kit is needed) but perfectly fine for ice fall climbing.

I feel that it could be improved by trying to add some ventilation at the back and ditching the front ice clipper slots. Both minor points really so a great harness that’s well worth the price.

SRP: £74.99

Stockists (http://eu.blackdiamondequipment.com/en/retailers-and-dealers)

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Title: Mountain Hardwear Hueco 20
Post by: comPiler on June 27, 2014, 07:00:12 pm
Mountain Hardwear Hueco 20 (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/06/27/mountain-hardwear-hueco-20/)
27 June 2014, 4:17 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/mountain-hardwear-logo.jpg?w=388) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/mountain-hardwear-logo.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/mountain-hardwear-hueco.jpg?w=300&h=300) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/mountain-hardwear-hueco.jpg) CGR takes the Mountain Harwear Hueco 20 for a multi pitch test ride.
Straight to the point. This rugged rock-climbing pack focuses on function so it won’t get in your way on a multi-pitch climb.
Performance***

Style****

Value***

Why would you purchase a specialist pack for multi pitch climbing? Well there are plenty of benefits: you can pack that lightweight belay jacket and gloves; you can take a little extra food and a drink and you can take a couple of pairs of shoes for the descent (even for multiple abs shoes will be more comfortable at the end of a long day out). So we’ve established that having a pack on whilst climbing multi pitch routes can be beneficial let’s look at the Mountain Hardwear Hueco 20  (http://www.mountainhardwear.com/hueco-20-backpack-OU6020.html)to see if that fits the bill.

Firstly I would like to say that the Hueco 20 is more versatile than just a multi pitch pack, I’ve used it for sport climbing days at Malham Cove, hiking in the Lake District and general urban living and it’s done a great job, it is a nice, well designed pack.

 

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/mh-hueco-climb.jpg?w=225&h=300) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/mh-hueco-climb.jpg)A small pack is unobtrusive when multi pitch climbing. The Hueco is made from burly 400D nylon with a very abrasion resistant Hypalon type insert which Mountain Hardwear call Hardwear Tarp. This is cleverly placed at the front so that the pack has protection for thrutchy chimney climbing and hauling. The seams are folded sewn folded over and covered in nylon piping and although the Hueco is not waterproof it shed off a light shower very easily.

The lid was easy to open and access the contents, the inside consisted of a security pocket that was big enough to for my phone, wallet and it also had a handy keyclip. There was also a hydration bladder pocket for those who like to use them, the tube could be fed through the same opening that the rope strap came through. I’m not a hydration bladder fan though so I found it very useful for stowing maps, guidebooks and other flat items in. There was also a loop for clipping items to using biners (such as abseil tat, a knife, etc), this had a plastic tube cover so acts like a gear loop on your harness. There was also plenty of room for all sorts of kit as I’ve described above. There was also a very well designed stowable rope strap which fed through just behind the lid via a Velcro opening, it adjusted enough to securely strap a 60m rope to the top of the pack.

The shoulder straps were very comfortable and I have used the Mountain Hardwear Hueco 20  (http://www.mountainhardwear.com/hueco-20-backpack-OU6020.html)for quite long hiking days and it was very comfortable. They were easy to adjust, had two taped tabs on for clipping stuff onto (or attaching my watch to as when I’m working I always like to keep one eye on the time). They also had elasticated loops for securing a hydration hose and a good, easy to adjust sternum strap which had a whistle clip.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/mh-hueco-stance.jpg?w=225&h=300) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/mh-hueco-stance.jpg)The large grab handles made it easy to work with on belays The Hueco 20 also had front and rear grab handles that were very handy, especially when attaching the pack to my harness when doing chimney or thrutch manoeuvres and it’s time to take the pack off and having dangling under me. Or general hauling (sometimes, when it’s windy it’s handy to haul the pack up when your second has stashed everything away and you want a belay jacket). The pack also has two large, zipped, side pockets for stowing all sorts of items such as energy bars, gloves, small guidebooks, camera, etc. The pockets expanded internally into the pack so I needed to remember to pack the pockets first then the main body.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/mh-hueco-hiking.jpg?w=225&h=300) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/mh-hueco-hiking.jpg)The Mountain Hardwear Hueco 20 was neat enough for hiking with. The Mountain Hardwear Hueco 20 has a nice tapered shape that made it really nice to climb with (which, after all is the most important thing for a climbing pack). It really was good, it rode high on my back so didn’t interfere with my harness. Once I got going I hardly noticed I had it on and it has quickly become my first choice for a work pack (I often have to carry a first aid kit and other items when I’m working on my MIA assessment).

I haven’t used the pack in winter yet but I can already see the advantages, it’s quite flexible so will stow inside my main pack. Why not, I hear you say, use it for your main climbing pack? Well the pack is only a 20L pack so try as I may I couldn’t fit everything in and this is one area I felt the Mountain Hardwear Hueco 20 could have been improved – I would have liked to have seen some small tabs sewn into the front of the pack so that I could lash extra items to it with elasticated cord. I would also liked to have seen some thought to securing a climbing helmet to the pack. That said, if these are important to you then the larger Hueco 35 might be an option.

So, in conclusion the Mountain Hardwear Hueco 20  (http://www.mountainhardwear.com/hueco-20-backpack-OU6020.html)is a great pack for multi pitch climbing, scrambling, hiking and general urban commuting. It’s comfortable, big enough to stow plenty of kit for a big route and is well made. There are some slight improvements that could be made to make the pack more versatile but these really are minor and shouldn’t detract from what is a nice day pack.

SRP: £50.00

Stockists (http://www.mountainhardwear.eu/on/demandware.store/Sites-MountainHardwear_INT-Site/default/StoresSG-Find)

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Title: The North Face Cinder Pack 32
Post by: comPiler on July 07, 2014, 07:00:10 pm
The North Face Cinder Pack 32 (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/07/07/the-north-face-cinder-pack-32/)
7 July 2014, 3:56 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/tnf-logo-e1382943588102.jpg?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/tnf-logo-e1382943588102.jpg)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/tnf-cinder-32.png?w=388&h=453) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/tnf-cinder-32.png)

CGR reviewer Katie gets her rope out to test the new sport climbing pack from The North Face.

The North Face Cinder Pack 32 is a dedicated, technical sport climbing backpack with the versatility needed for a day at the crag.
Value for money ****

Quality *****

Performance *****

So apparently the season for sport climbing started ages ago, I’ve been too into bouldering to realise this, but by getting the New TNF Cinder pack (sport climbing specific) through my door I’ve been catapulted back into the world of ropes and shiny gear.

The North Face Cinder Pack (http://www.thenorthface.co.uk/tnf-uk-en/cinder-pack-32-litre-backpack/p96716.html) is a 32 litre technical sport climbing back pack, this is the smallest pack in the Cinder family but no less great.  Helped in design by the legendary Peter Croft, this pack is ready for anything you have to throw at it.

The pack itself is super robust made of 800D PU coated nylon, it’s tough.  Think, dropping it down the crag and it bouncing for miles and looking fine at the end of it tough.

One of the designs of the pack is it that it stands upright even when empty, it has a sturdy square base reinforced around the edges to create a very handy upright pack.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/the-north-face-cinder-2.jpg?w=388&h=217) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/the-north-face-cinder-2.jpg)The North Face Cinder 32 – a burly looking pack. The Cinder is a hybrid between a haul bag and a regular crag pack, I’m not normally a multi pitch sport climber, so I haven’t been able to properly test out the load bearing haul loops, although I’ve found them pretty useful for standard things like grabbing it out of the car or carrying it by the haul loop when I’ve got other things on my back.

The back panel is great, it’s made of light weight E-VAP perforated foam panels, which aim to increase air circulation improving breathability and evaporation, stopping you from getting that horrible sweaty back syndrome we all hate.  I found it really supportive as well, the pack can hold quite a lot of gear so gets reasonably heavy, but once you’ve clipped the waist belt and chest strap up it’s really comfy and distributes the weight well, definitely a plus with a long uphill walk in.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/the-north-face-cinder-loaded-1.jpg?w=388&h=217) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/the-north-face-cinder-loaded-1.jpg)The comfortable back made walking in a breeze. The E-VAP panels also feature on the waist belt and shoulder straps, so no uncomfortable cutting in as a side effect.

There are a few simple zip up pockets, one on the top lid of the pack and one on the inside back, for me this was enough, and I like having an easy access pocket which is big enough for all your important stuff (phone, purse, keys etc).

I would have liked the pack to be the same dimensions all the way through the pack but it’s slightly smaller in diameter at the base which I find a little annoying sometimes when trying to fit things down to the bottom.  Saying this I happily fitted a 70m rope, harness, down jacket, two pairs of shoes and chalk bag into the bag with a little room to spare.  The good thing about sport climbing is you need two people, so even though I didn’t have room for lunch I had an extra person to bring that part up!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/the-north-face-contents-1.jpg?w=388&h=217) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/the-north-face-contents-1.jpg)The North Face Cinder 32 easily fitted all you need for a day on the crag. It’s not the biggest bag, so if you like to carry all the gear, snacks and all other crag amenities, you may want to opt for one of the larger versions (55 or 42), but I don’t know too many people with that craving.

Colour wise, in this size the bag comes black as standard so no hard decisions there and the price is pretty reasonable for the lifetime you’ll probably get out of it (£90.00 RRP).  The pack weighs in at 1380g so no real extra weight other than what you put into it.

The only thing I would add to this pack if I could would be a side zip so I could get to the bottom of the pack quickly if necessary, bare that in mind if you prefer that as a feature.  Other than that I’d say it does exactly what it says on the can, so if the pack ticks all the boxes when you read about it online you won’t be disappointed with it when you buy it.

I have no doubt The North Face Cinder 32  (http://www.thenorthface.co.uk/tnf-uk-en/cinder-pack-32-litre-backpack/p96716.html)will be with me for a long time to come, and I’m not one of those people who are careful with their things.

Always good when a company takes advice from someone who knows the sport inside out, I only wish others did it more!

SRP: £90.00

Stockists (http://www.thenorthface.co.uk/tnf-uk-en/ustorelocator/location/map/)

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Title: DMM Flight Pack
Post by: comPiler on July 16, 2014, 07:00:09 pm
DMM Flight Pack (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/07/16/dmm-flight-pack/)
16 July 2014, 3:58 pm

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/dmm-climbing-logo-rgb.jpg?w=300&h=139) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/dmm-climbing-logo-rgb.jpg)

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/dmm-flight.png?w=231&h=300) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/dmm-flight.png)Dave tests the new sport specific pack from welsh climbing company DMM – did he have the bottle to use it as cabin luggage? Performance ****

Style ****

Value****

The Flight is a highly featured sport climbing crag sack, combining rope bag and rucksack. It is sized to cope with everything you could possibly need for a day at the crag, and that includes a Euro style 80m rope.
DMM have been working hard this year, launching a pretty thorough range of soft goods from chalkbags and ropebags to a new range of climbing packs. We’ve tested out the sport climbing specific DMM Flight  (http://dmmclimbing.com/products/flight/)pack to see if it made and performs with the usual DMM quality.

Firstly, why would you want to buy a pack just for sport climbing? Well rock climbing is a truly diverse sport and there are plenty of people who just sport climb and boulder and never trad or winter climb, let alone partake in the dark art of Alpinism. So a pack that is featured for sport climbing makes sense as you need less kit for sport and indoor. Also the idea of an integrated rope bag appeals as it’s less to carry in.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/dmm-flight-malham-2.jpg?w=388&h=217) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/dmm-flight-malham-2.jpg)The DMM Flight – plenty big enough for a day of sport climbing. During the late eighties and early nineties I concentrated purely on sport climbing. I was young, it was fashionable and it was sexy (well maybe not the lycra), we were all going to be French and climb wonderful limestone in sunny places with not a care in the world. I had one of the very first sport climbing specific pack from the states – this one even had a seat with it! The premise was that you could have a different shape as you weren’t carrying it that far so comfort wasn’t too much of  an issue  and you could therefore concentrate on features. A few carries up to Ceuse soon scotched that!

The DMM Flight  (http://dmmclimbing.com/products/flight/)is a fully featured and comfortable pack that has all the necessary features for a full day of sport climbing. It is a ‘suitcase’ opening style pack that gives full and easy access to all your equipment. There are two compartments : one containing the removable rope tarp and two extra pockets and another mesh closing pocket that is plenty big enough for quickdraws, harness, boots, chalk bag, food and water. The amount you can get in depends on the size of rope you’re packing, if it’s 80m then there’s less space. Although the handy rope strap means that on those cold windy (some might ideal) days you can make extra room for belay jackets and all that extra clothing that’s needed.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/dmm-sport-pack.jpg?w=225&h=300) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/dmm-sport-pack.jpg)Handy compartments for organising your kit. There are three pockets on the DMM Flight pack: a large one at the top of the pack big enough for hat gloves, camera, guidebook, etc and an inner security pocket that was plenty big enough for a phone, wallet and car keys; there is a key clip for extra security. There is also a large side pocket that fitted a 2l water bottle quite happily. So there are plenty of organising options so those who like to be organised.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/flight-rope-tarp.jpg?w=388&h=291) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/flight-rope-tarp.jpg)The detachable tarp was very useful. There is a strap to help keep it wrapped in the pack. The pack is stiffened using 5mm rigid foam around the edges and two panels for bulking out the mesh compartment. This made for a comfortable carry as it kept the gear in place to stop it moving around, which can often do in suitcase style packs. The panels flattened down for when the pack needs to be made smaller, such as if taking the pack as cabin luggage on a flight.

Which brings me to my story… I recently took the pack on a trip to Catalunya, which was ideal trip to test the pack out. I was flying with a well known Irish based budget carrier and when I checked the hand luggage requirements they had a maximum height of 55cms for hand luggage, the DMM Flight  (http://dmmclimbing.com/products/flight/)measures 59cms. I lost my bottle as the pack was definitely poking above the basket and I changed my cabin luggage into a small pack I’d taken for multi pitch climbing. In the end the check in staff didn’t even check my hand luggage, if was flying scheduled or a national carrier I would have no hesitation in taking it as hand luggage – but once bitten twice shy with some airlines so I’m always cautious.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/img_0048.jpg?w=388&h=291) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/img_0048.jpg)The pack was very comfortable to carry when loaded. The comfortable carry is helped with a large hip belt and railed sternum strap, this allowed quite heavy loads to be carried in comfort. The meshed back panel and shoulder straps also added to the comfort and overall I found the DMM Flight a very comfortable carry. As mentioned earlier a great little feature was the hidden rope strap, two straps were hidden in small pockets just above the shoulder straps, these could be deployed over the rope and attached to small loops by a clip. They had adjusting buckles and securely kept the rope in place. Useful for making extra room in the pack or for attaching an abseil rope.

The other feature is the integrated helmet shield, this deployed from a zipped compartment at the bottom of the pack and hooked onto loops located on the pack sides. This worked OK but felt a little insecure when carrying a helmet as the helmet could have easily fallen out of the sides, an extra loop and clip would easily solve this, it wouldn’t need to be adjustable and would hold items much more securely.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/dmm-flight-walk-in.jpg?w=388&h=291) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/dmm-flight-walk-in.jpg)The rope strap and helmet shield are handy when you need extra room. The DMM Flight was easy to move around the crag or climbing wall as it closed by folding and had suitcase style grab handles which meant I could chuck everything in fold it up and take it to the next route with minimal fuss. It also has a top handle for easy movement in the check in queue or just quick carry to the car or café.

Overall I think the DMM Flight  (http://dmmclimbing.com/products/flight/)is a great sport climbing pack, you could quite happily use it for a day on the Grit and is comfortable and versatile enough to use as a trad pack for most outcrop climbing. It has great features and is robust enough for everyday use, it comes in the now iconic DMM colours of bright Green and Red as well as a more muted grey and looks destined to become a very popular pack.

SRP: £85.00

Stockists (http://dmmclimbing.com/retailers/)

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Title: Y&Y Belay Glasses
Post by: comPiler on July 24, 2014, 07:00:11 pm
Y&Y Belay Glasses (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/07/24/yy-belay-glasses/)
24 July 2014, 2:41 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/yy-logo.jpg?w=300&h=193) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/yy-logo.jpg)(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/yy-belay-glasses.jpg?w=300&h=200) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/yy-belay-glasses.jpg)Up periscope! Dave tests out the well priced glasses from Y&Y to see if they can relieve his Kilnsey neck.
Y&Y belay glasses can help belayers to avoid raising head for long time, in order to relax muscles at neck area. Let them feel smoother and more comfortable. Say NO to belayer’s neck!
Performance *****

Style****

Value*****

I was an early adopter of belay glasses using the CU glasses as soon as they came out. My local sport climbing crags are very steep and belay sessions can be an arduous affair. I’ve had plenty of mates that have accrued quite severe neck and spinal injuries over the years and I’m pretty sure belaying has been a contributing factor. So I would always recommend buying a pair when chatting to beginner and intermediate climbers. Advanced climbers should know better!

The Y&Y Belay Glasses  (http://www.yy-belayglasses.co.uk/)are a smart, stylish and well priced pair of belay glasses, as you would expect from a French company. For those who are new to the concept they work exactly like a periscope except you are looking from horizontal to vertical and not the other way around.

The details of the glasses are worth mentioning as they are very well made, using high quality materials. The bows (arms) are made from SMA (shape memory alloy) this material retains its original shape even after deformation. The actual frame itself is made from stainless steel and the prisms are very high quality. All in all a very good quality pair of glasses, they are very light so you won’t notice them in your pack when you have to hike them up to Ceuse.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/yy-contents.jpg?w=300&h=225) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/yy-contents.jpg)Plenty of options with the selection of extras, all included. The box contents includes a cord retainer (so you can look like a senior citizen with them hanging around your neck), a lanyard, a hard case and even a small screwdriver for adjustments. I never needed to adjust them as they fitted and were useable straight away. The hard case seemed a little over designed with velcro flaps and a full zip as well as a carabiner for clipping onto your harness, etc, it even had a belt loop! There is also options for nose sizes with the removable silicon nose pads.

In use they were great, perfect optical vision through the high quality prisms, the leader came into view at about 8m so it was a case of have them hanging around my neck until I felt I needed them. The prism tended to slightly enlarge and foreshorten the leader but once I was used to this I was able to anticipate rope without any problems.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/yy-belay-glasses-1.jpg?w=225&h=300) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/yy-belay-glasses-1.jpg)Perfect for steep routes – Kilnsey Crag, Yorkshire. The Y&Y Belay Glasses  (http://www.yy-belayglasses.co.uk/)have been a great addition to my sports climbing kit. I’ve used them in a variety of climbing situations and even used them for multi pitch trad climbing (although there’s so much faff with trad kit that I would use them all the time as I’d be anxious of losing them) and they would be great for a multi pitch bolted climbs. They’re perfect for climbing walls and steep sports routes and much, much cheaper than a series of physiotherapy or chiropractor visits.

The next phase for Y&Y is to respond to customer feedback and develop a series of colour options, you can have your say on their facebook page here (https://www.facebook.com/yy.belayglasses).

 

SRP: £49.99 plus p+p

Stockists (http://www.yy-belayglasses.co.uk/)

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Title: Edelrid Pure Slider
Post by: comPiler on August 07, 2014, 07:00:08 pm
Edelrid Pure Slider (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/08/07/edelrid-pure-slider/)
7 August 2014, 4:15 pm

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/edelrid-01-4c-bg-20.jpg?w=300&h=81) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/01/edelrid-01-4c-bg-20.jpg)(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/edelrid-pure-slider.jpg?w=168&h=300) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/edelrid-pure-slider.jpg) CGR road tests the wonderfully engineered Elderid Pure Sliders for their Vorsprung Durch Technik Performance ****

Quality*****

Value****

I must confess that when the Edelrid Pure Slider  (http://www.edelrid.de/en/Edelrid/Sports/Pure-Slider-slate.html)landed on the desk I got very excited (but then I get excited over a pair of approach shoes), they looked absolutely brilliant. Super sleek, awesomely engineered and I just couldn’t stop opening and closing them.

The Edelrid Pure Slider  (http://www.edelrid.de/en/Edelrid/Sports/Pure-Slider-slate.html)is the new self-locking carabiner from a German climbing company steeped in history. We have tested plenty of Edelrid products and always found them to be excellent quality and the Pure Slider was no exception.

Hot forged and sporting a solid gate the Pure Slider could easily be mistaken for a normal carabiner and with a bit of practice you could use them that way.  They are outrageously light for a locking carabiner with a stated weight of 42g, the CGR scales weighed one in at 44g so you definitely won’t feel them weighing you down. It has a strength rating of 23kN with the gate closed and 8kN for gate open and across the gate and is reinforced in all key areas. The keylock closure was great as the biners didn’t snag on cord or wires.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/edlerid-slider-belay.jpg?w=300&h=225) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/edlerid-slider-belay.jpg)Edelrid Pure Slider – easy to use and speeds up belay building. The slider was extremely simple to operate-just slide down and push the gate open. This became automatic with just a little practice and was easy enough to operate with thin gloves on. Of course the typical human brain can conjure all sorts of scenarios in which the gate might accidently open, such as the rope sliding over the mechanism or a sling twisting over it. But in all my 30+ years of climbing I have never had any sort of carabiner accidently opening and the stories I hear are usually freak occurrences. So the probability is the locking mechanism will work perfectly well in most conditions – as it has for us throughout the test period.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/edlerid-pure-slider-nose.jpg?w=225&h=300) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/edlerid-pure-slider-nose.jpg)The sleek nose didn’t snag and the slider was easy to operate. We’ve been using these all season now and find them really useful in all sorts of summer conditions – belays, clipping the pack to the belay and in all situations that need a locking carabiner except for belaying (although the HMS Strike SafeLock would be ideal). They would be ideal whenever you feel you need to have a locked carabiner, on a traverse for the first runner, we’ve been using them as screwgate alternatives to great effect.

The only situation where we feel the Edelrid Pure Slider  (http://www.edelrid.de/en/Edelrid/Sports/Pure-Slider-slate.html)wouldn’t work is in winter climbing where we feel it would ice up pretty quickly and be difficult to release – but then I’ve had plenty of normal screwgates ice up. That said it’s interesting to get the view of Daniel Gebel, Head of Product DEvelopment at Edelrid, we’ve only used them in summer conditions and will schedule an update in the winter.

We all agree that they would be great for all Alpine and multi pitch climbing where weight saving is important. A few Edelrid Pure Sliders should be on the rack of any serious Alpine and multi pitch rock climber.

SRP: £16.00

Stockists (http://www.edelrid.de/index.php?lang=1&cl=twtshopfinder)

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Title: adidas Terrex Solo
Post by: comPiler on August 14, 2014, 07:00:18 pm
adidas Terrex Solo (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/08/13/addidas-terrex-solo/)
13 August 2014, 10:17 pm

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/adidas20logo.gif?w=300&h=220) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/10/adidas20logo.gif)(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/adidas-terrex-solo.jpg?w=500&h=412) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/adidas-terrex-solo.jpg) CGR tester Richie takes the adidas Terrex Solo out for a #unbeatablegrip test This is the flagship approach shoe from the new adidas/Five Ten link up. So we have the promise of adidas’s extensive footwear expertise paired with the ‘world’s stickiest rubber’ experts Five Ten.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/terrex-solo2-028.jpg?w=500&h=400) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/terrex-solo2-028.jpg)Ideal for rocky walk-ins Appearance wise the adidas Terrex Solo (http://www.adidas.co.uk/outdoor) has a definite slant toward the more ‘Euro’ style with a striking blue, black and orange colour scheme. The build quality is first-rate too and these shoes immediately give the impression they are going to last. The uppers are a mixture of tough synthetics more akin to the make up of a light mountaineering boot than a running shoe. There are some thoughtful touches here too; asymmetric heel tab loops so that the shoes can be clipped neatly to a harness, slightly stiffened tongue to prevent fold over, and finally a lace tidy. The toe box area is protected by a substantial rand that also aids toe jams. The lace tidy was a new one to me, I’ve seen it before on cycling footwear where it serves to prevent laces fouling the cranks/chain/chainring but I’m less sure of its utility on an approach shoe. Fit wise I found them to be on the narrow side of normal but I do have wide-ish feet (in fact I substituted a thinner footbed for most of the test period to provide a little more room).

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/terrex-solo3-029-e1408020055213.jpg?w=297&h=300) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/terrex-solo3-029-e1408020055213.jpg)Great on scree  

Aproach shoes are a funny category of footwear, the original Five-Tennies promised the idea of a trainer that you could walk to the crag in and then use to climb a route. In reality they are always a compromise between climbing performance and walking comfort. The Terrex Solo does a good job of balancing these conflicting needs without compromising too much. Climbing wise it is the best of the approach shoes I’ve tried to date. The narrow-ish fit, superb rubber and large ‘toe smear’ area together with the rand and lacing to the toe all make it an excellent performer. For the walk-in the addidas Terrex Solo had a slightly split personality. On rocky trails and scree slopes it was a consummate performer, the tough upper was protective and the 5.10 rubber gave superb grip – this was particularly noticeable on polished descent routes. However on wet grass and muddy paths the lack of tread let the shoe down. For rocky trails typical of many European approaches the Terrex Solo would make an excellent shoe especially if some scrambling or low-grade climbing was involved. Likewise if you need to carry your shoes on your harness they carry very neatly and are fantastic on polished descents but are not the lightest of shoes at around 411 grams each. For wet muddy/grassy approaches or descents the lack of tread would make them less ideal.

Overall a great climbing approach shoe that is well-built and protective that excels on rocky terrain but beware of the lack of tread/grip on wet grass and muddy slopes.

 

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/terrex-solo-027.jpg?w=500&h=375) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/07/terrex-solo-027.jpg)Excellent for polished scrambles and descents RRP £95

Performance ? ? ? (?) if there is no wet grass/mud

Durability ? ? ? ? ?

Value ? ? ? ?

 

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Title: Re: Climbing Gear Reviews UK
Post by: tomtom on August 14, 2014, 07:11:39 pm
I bought a pair of these last week and tbh I think they're shit.

The problem is they are jack of all trades master of none...

They are a pretty good climbing boot - albeit with no feeling. They have been made super stiff in the sole and so its quite easy to edge on them. The rubber is super sticky on rock as well. I'd be happy puntering up a long multi-pitch diff/low severe mountain route in these in complete comfort... But as a proper rock shoe they are no where near as good as even a loose fitting comfy regular rock boot. So why not wear a comfy multi pitch style rock boot instead...

As a trainer - they are rubbish. There is little or no cushioning below the ball of the feet or heel - which means they are clumpy and uncomfortable to walk on rough terrain in. To be honest, they feel like wearing a brogue when walking around normally... In the street they clump along (not nice and smooth and quiet like a regular trainer) and again feel like I'm wearing shoes rather than a trainer... That big chunky 'must be full of foam' looking heel but is solid.

They have a very high and stiff back around the Achilles that has given me a blister about 8-9 cm above my heel - really unusual - never had a shoe run there before. I guess its to provide more support for the climbing side.

The final nail in the coffin is that MrsTT says they look like chav shoes, and that I would look perfect in matching grey tracky top and bottoms and a Salford hair cut...

Don't bother folks - they're log. Nice idea - but ultimately a flawed concept.

If I hadnt persevered with them and worn them a bit I'd have sent them back by now...
Title: Re: Climbing Gear Reviews UK
Post by: a dense loner on August 15, 2014, 08:26:13 am
Well I like mine. Would I try to climb a route in them? No since I'm not Johnny brown. Would I wear em to walk to the crag, ahem wall, yes. Realistically I bought them to go to the pub and virgin cos they look fuckin good. Anybody who buys anything Adidas thinking they're going to be good for climbing needs to take a long hard look at themselves. But on the chav front, like north farce, they tick all the boxes
Title: Re: Climbing Gear Reviews UK
Post by: Johnny Brown on August 15, 2014, 12:48:30 pm
Quote
Climbing wise it is the best of the approach shoes I’ve tried to date. The narrow-ish fit, superb rubber and large ‘toe smear’ area together with the rand and lacing to the toe all make it an excellent performer.

They look to me to have a little bit of the Daescent in their heritage. Given that those greatest of all climbing trainers have been discontinued they have to be worth a look.

Quote
why not wear a comfy multi pitch style rock boot instead

'Cos they aren't in the same league for comfort, and aren't much better if it gets really hard. I see these type of shoe as either doing everything (either Stanage evening, or long easy route), or everything bar the hard pitches. You can't walk in or out in comfy rock shoes. Just be careful on the glacier and pray for plus-zero temps.
Title: Re: Climbing Gear Reviews UK
Post by: Paul B on August 15, 2014, 12:52:39 pm
and avoid grass at all costs.
Title: Re: Climbing Gear Reviews UK
Post by: a dense loner on August 15, 2014, 05:59:32 pm
Unfortunately they don't have the feel of the daescents, I think they'd be terrible for climbing. Do feel clunky
Title: Re: Climbing Gear Reviews UK
Post by: tomtom on August 18, 2014, 02:34:25 pm
Quote from: Johnny Brown on August 15, 2014, 12:48:30 pm
Quote
why not wear a comfy multi pitch style rock boot instead

'Cos they aren't in the same league for comfort, and aren't much better if it gets really hard. I see these type of shoe as either doing everything (either Stanage evening, or long easy route), or everything bar the hard pitches. You can't walk in or out in comfy rock shoes. Just be careful on the glacier and pray for plus-zero temps.

The problem is - as approach shoes they're not good either... too clunky and not enough cushioning.. They feel worse than a pair of crocs (at least they give a bit..)..

Anyway - spend £80 on a pair and see whether or not you agree with me...
Title: Re: Climbing Gear Reviews UK
Post by: a dense loner on August 18, 2014, 03:52:31 pm
Why would anyone want nearly 4/5 of a pair of shoes?
Title: Haglöfs Roc Lite Pull – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on August 26, 2014, 07:00:09 pm
Haglöfs Roc Lite Pull – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/08/26/haglofs-roc-lite-pull-climbing-gear-review/)
26 August 2014, 2:11 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/unnamed.jpg?w=300&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/unnamed.jpg)(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/6024172gv_ss14_roclitepull.png?w=240&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/6024172gv_ss14_roclitepull.png) The classic anorak/smock top seemed to have gone out of fashion but recently one or two companies have brought a modern day version back into their range, obviously recognising the benefits of many of their features. One such company is Haglöfs with the Roc Lite Pull… Performance ****

Durability ****

Value ****

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/08/img_5274.jpg?w=388&h=388) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/08/img_5274.jpg)Haglöfs Roc Lite Pull – great for moving fast in miserable weather! A hardshell jacket is generally not the most favoured piece of clothing in my wardrobe. Instead, I see it as something of a necessary evil. If I do have to wear one then I like it to be light and simple. When I saw that Haglöfs were producing what they called “The lightest shell jacket in our Mountain concept” I was interested enough to take a look. The fact that it was a smock added extra interest.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/08/photo-3.jpg?w=388&h=217) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/08/photo-3.jpg)Haglöfs Roc Lite Pull – on the Monch Switzerland So, the Roc Lite Pull is a fully featured 3 layer hardshell (or waterproof as they used to call them in the old days!) constructed using 3 layer 40D Gore-Tex® Pro which is light whilst still being fairly durable. It comes with a host of technical features which Haglöfs list as:

 

At around 375g for a size Large it is pretty light for a 3 layer hard shell but not the lightest on the market either.

 

What have I used it for?

I have used the Roc Lite Pull over the last couple of months for trail running, rock climbing, walking and technical alpine climbs in some very nasty weather. I have used it in the UK and in the European Alps. In short it works well in all of these applications.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/08/img_5300.jpg?w=388&h=388) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/08/img_5300.jpg)Haglöfs Roc Lite Pull – light enough and tough enough for tecjnical rock routes. Here in use on the Sella Towers, Dolomites, Italy.  

What do I like about the Roc Lite Pull?

Firstly, I love the fact that (despite being well featured) it is also simple and uncluttered. No pit zips, no bulky storm flaps, no ridiculous number of pockets (it only has one) and no flappy elastic ready to take my eyes out in a storm. I also really like the face fabric, which is quite soft for a hardshell and doesn’t rustle too much.

For a climbing hardshell I always look for a simple and uncluttered silhouette and the Roc Lite fits the bill nicely. There is no restriction of movement whether I’m rock climbing, swinging an ice tool or running over the local moorland in the rain. I always look for a helmet compatible hood that gives good coverage, is easy to adjust and doesn’t restrict my vision and I would have to say that the Roc Lite Pull is as good as any I have used in that respect. The kangaroo style front pocket is very roomy but also sits flat when empty. I love the way I can fill it full of snacks whilst I’m on the move so I don’t have to keep getting them out of my pack, which can slow things down when running and climbing. It also easily swallows a full size map too.

The front zipper comes down half way offering as much ventilation as I need in a hardshell. If I need more then I’ll take it off! It also offers easy “on/off” access even over the bulkiest climbing or skiing helmets.

The lack of a full zip is particularly beneficial when wearing a climbing harness as it totally eliminates bulk around the waist area.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/08/photo-1.jpg?w=388&h=688) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/08/photo-1.jpg)Haglöfs Roc Lite Pull – great weather protection for mountaineering. Works well with a climbing harness.  

 

Any negatives?

The Roc Lite Pull is a brilliant jacket. The only minor niggle I had was with the velcro cuffs and that was because I struggled to get them to close snugly enough around my skinny wrists.

 

Conclusion

The Roc Lite Pull from Haglöfs is a high quality top end hardshell jacket. It is perfect for those who want to move quickly and unhindered in the mountains and who like top level weather protection with minimum fuss. The smock style is a great alternative to the numerous standard full zip shell jackets that are on the market and has particular benefit when wearing it under a climbing harness.

 


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Title: Arc’teryx Alpha FL Jacket – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on September 01, 2014, 01:00:08 pm
Arc’teryx Alpha FL Jacket – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/09/01/arcteryx-alpha-fl-jacket-climbing-gear-review/)
1 September 2014, 11:58 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx1.jpg?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx1.jpg)

Kev takes the minimalist Alpha FL Jacket from Arc’teryx on some technical outings to see if it really is the best technical climbing shell on the market… Performance *****

Durability *****

Value *****

A while ago I reviewed the Beta LT Jacket (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/12/16/arcteryx-beta-lt-jacket-climbing-gear-review/) from Arc’teryx, noting that it was the perfect hardshell jacket for technical mountaineering and alpine climbing. But there were some (very) minor areas for improvement.  So, when I was given the chance to review the Alpha FL jacket this summer I was keen to see if it was even better than the Beta LT and if so, by how much…

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/img_0218.jpg?w=388&h=517) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/img_0218.jpg)Arc’teryx Alpha FL Jacket – perfect for technical climbing. well cut and breathable, it was an easy choice for me to take this as my windshell on long technical rock routes. Here on pitch 8 (F7b) of Ici Mieux Q’uen Face, Tour Termier, Ecrins, France.  

The Alpha Series of garments are what Arc’teryx call “Climbing and alpine focused systems” and FL stands for “Fast and Light“, so as far as jargon hype, things were already sounding good for the Alpha FL! I’ve used the Alpha FL all summer for climbing both in the UK and the European Alps, and I’ve worn it in cold and dry, cold and wet and warm and wet conditions, battling everything from icy winds, driving rain, snow, rock, ice and mud! It really has been put through the mill.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/img_0229.jpg?w=388&h=291) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/img_0229.jpg)Glad of my Arc’teryx Alpha FL Jacket as the weather takes a turn for the worst on the approach to Refuge du Promontoire, Ecrins, France.  

The fast and light persona has shone through admirably in all situations. At 325g this is a lightweight shell, bearing in mind that it is a full 3 layer piece constructed from GORE-TEX® Pro 3L with supple yet durable N40p-X face fabric. No tissue paper thin, tear-tastic emergency pieces here. This jacket is tough! It has stood up to granite chimneys and razor sharp limestone without so much as a nick or hole.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/img_0243.jpg?w=388&h=517) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/img_0243.jpg)Arc’teryx Alpha FL Jacket – battling icy and rough rocks in the Dumhel Couloir during a traverse of La Meije, Ecrins, France. So, how have Arc’teryx saved on weight? Well, firstly by construction, with clever patterning and micro seam allowances. And secondly, by features. Or lack of them! When I reviewed the Beta LT I talked about the way in which I would have liked to have seen only one chest pocket rather than 2. The Alpha FL only has one. It has a full length WaterTight™ Vislon front zip, laminated die-cut Velcro® cuff adjusters to reduce bulk and possibility of snagging and one of my favourite Arc’teryx shell features, the harness Hemlock™ inserts which help keep the jacket in place under a harness. Some might argue that if a jacket is cut sufficiently well then a feature like this shouldn’t be necessary but I find that combined with a great cut (which the Alpha FL has) it keeps everything really neat around the waist and I never have to worry about adjusting the jacket because it has popped over my harness, obscuring my gear loops.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/photo-5.jpg?w=388&h=217) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/photo-5.jpg)Arc’teryx Alpha FL Jacket – descending after the classic 18 pitch rock route, Rankxerox on Tete d”Aval, Ecrins France. On the subject of the cut, the Alpha FL is perfect for climbing with that almost bespoke feel that you expect from Arc’teryx. There is no extra fabric flapping round and I found my size small to fit brilliantly over a baselayer and light midlayer. One of the best features of the Alpha FL is the hood. It fits perfectly over a helmet, is comfortable round the face and chin, as well as being simple to adjust so that it fits over a hat, hood, helmet or nothing at all. One final nice touch is the inclusion of a stuff sack so you can clip it to your climbing harness should you wish to carry it as an emergency shell.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/img_0190.jpg?w=388&h=291) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/img_0190.jpg)Arc’teryx Alpha FL Jacket – an awesome helmet compatible hood that doesn’t interfere with movement or vision. So what is the conclusion? Is there anything wrong with it? And has it overtaken the Beta LT as my new favourite hardshell? Well, first of all the Alpha FL is definitely my new shell of choice. It is more of an out and out climbing jacket than the Beta LT and the more minimalist styling definitely suits my tastes. It is not a jacket for walkers seeking lots of pockets and extra features though, but if you want a lightweight shell for climbing, running and general high octane mountain pursuits, then get an Alpha FL. You won’t be disappointed! We awarded the Beta LT 5 stars and in my opinion the Alpha FL is just a tad better!

 

 

 

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Title: Therm-a-Rest Antares Sleeping Bag and Therm-a-Rest NeoAir All Season mattress
Post by: comPiler on September 08, 2014, 01:00:13 pm
Therm-a-Rest Antares Sleeping Bag and Therm-a-Rest NeoAir All Season mattress (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/09/08/therm-a-rest-antares-sleeping-bag-and-therm-a-rest-neoair-all-season-mattress/)
8 September 2014, 8:09 am

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/08/therm-a-rest.jpg?w=300&h=42) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/08/therm-a-rest.jpg)(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/08/therm-a-rest_antares_frontback_allseason.jpg?w=236&h=300) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/08/therm-a-rest_antares_frontback_allseason.jpg)

Dave puts the Therm-a-Rest sleeping bag and mattress combo through it’s paces to see if he can get a good night’s sleep.
 A three-season sleeping bag should handle it all – from late-season snowstorms to early frosts.

Lightweight, durable and extremely warm, the NeoAir All Season mattress is the ultimate solution to year-round backcountry comfort.
Performance ****

Ease of use****

Value***

During the spring and summer I do quite a bit of camping, this year I’ve been supervising Duke of Edinburgh expeditions back to back and so have spent more than enough nights under canvas.

My dirty secret amongst CGR testers is that I like a little bit of backpacking and bivvying and will often choose a bivvi over a night in a stuffy Alpine hut. Sleep, however, poses a problem for me: I run hot but sleep cold so I like to be warm and will often wake up cold during the night, so it was great to test out the new Therm-a-Rest Antares 15F/-9C  (http://www.cascadedesigns.com/therm-a-rest/sleeping-bags/antares-15-sleeping-bag/product)three season down bag. I’ve spend over twenty nights in it this season so far and it kept me warm and toasty throughout. The bag won an OutDoor Industry Award in 2013, this is an award given at the major European Outdoor Trade Fair in Freidrichshafen, Germany. So I was keen to test it.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/08/antares_20_sleeping_bag_1_.jpg?w=300&h=132) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/08/antares_20_sleeping_bag_1_.jpg)The Therm-a-Rest Anatres 15F/-9C Sleeping bag was warm and cosy. The sleeping bag is box baffle construction and has a great loft. I tested a regular size and found the bag very roomy with plenty of room to move around inside when asleep without getting twisted. The rating is for the bag is -9ºC (or 15ºF if you’re American) so is plenty warm enough for most three season adventures. On test I found it nice and toasty in all conditions and the loft was great. I slept in it for a full 10 days at 1600 metres and constant 4C mornings and most nights I was a little too warm!

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/08/thrmarest-antares-bag.jpg?w=300&h=168) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/08/thrmarest-antares-bag.jpg)The Anates bag worked really well with the NeoAir All Season. The design of the Therm-a-Rest Antares 15F/-9C  (http://www.cascadedesigns.com/therm-a-rest/sleeping-bags/antares-15-sleeping-bag/product)is a mummy shaped bag with a great hood. The hood shape fitted perfectly around my head in spring conditions when I needed a little extra warmth around my head. The bag is super warm with 750+ fill power and you can really notice that there is a lot of down around you. This extra down comes from the back of the bag, which is just a strip of fabric so it’s very important to use the bag with the SynergyLink loops and a mattress.

The bag also has a unique SynergyLink system that is two elasticated and sewn loops. You basically slide an insulated mat into the two loops and it is held in position. This keeps the fabric layer against the mat which is very important because if you don’t you will get a cold back when you turn over in the night. The SynergyLink system worked very well with the Therm-a-Rest NeoAir All Season  (http://www.cascadedesigns.com/ie/therm-a-rest/mattresses/trek-and-travel/neoair-all-season/product)mattress as the extra thickness of the mattress locked into loops and kept the sleeping back perfectly in position.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/08/neoair_all_season_16_.jpg?w=300&h=158) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/08/neoair_all_season_16_.jpg)The Therm-a-rest NeoAir All Season was plenty big enough for my frame. I also own a Therm-a-rest ProLite Plus mattress and this also worked well but the shorter length meant my feet got a little cold. This was easily solved by using my pack to put under my feet which is what I do with any other bag when using the ProLite. In fact I’ve also recently used it with a huge base camp mattress and it worked perfectly, it locked the bag in position and I was able to toss and turn very easily just like under a duvet in bed. No more getting tangled up in the night.

 

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/08/neoair-mini-pump.jpg?w=167&h=300) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/08/neoair-mini-pump.jpg)The NeoAir Mini Pump is a brilliant invention. I did find putting the bag into the SynergyLink loops a little fiddly when inside my tiny MSR Carbon Reflex tent, especially when it was wet and I needed to be in the tent. I’m often sleeping alone when I’m training, supervising or assessing and so use a one person tent when on expedition and I found that the SynergyLink system works better in a bigger, open tent spaces as you need a little room to fix the system in place. It did work but just took a little more creativity in a cramped space. All the zips worked really well on the Therm-a-Rest Antares 15F/-9C sleeping bag and at no time did they snag – important when you’ve stayed in the bag for as long as possible and the rush to finally answer the call of nature!

I often use a climbing huts during the colder months and I found that using the Therm-a-Rest Antares sleeping bag without a mat in the loops created a cold strip along my back – so as I said earlier it’s really designed to be used with the SynergyLink loops and a mattress. This, I feel, restricts the versatility of the bag for those who want a sleeping bag for uses outside of camping. New developments for 2015 include the option of Nikwax Hydrophobic down in the form of the Antares HD which should be great for open air or tarp camping.

The Therm-a-Rest NeoAir All Season  (http://www.cascadedesigns.com/ie/therm-a-rest/mattresses/trek-and-travel/neoair-all-season/product)sleeping mattress was an excellent piece of kit. I’ve used a NeoAir XLite mattress since they came out several years ago and love the compact nature. I’ve never been cold when I’ve used one. If you have any doubts about the effectiveness of this air based mattress system then let me dispel them. The packability is supreme, the NeoAir All Season mattress folds down really small and takes up no more room that a hardshell so no need to have your sleeping mat outside your pack.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/08/tar_neoair_minipump.jpg?w=300&h=233) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/08/tar_neoair_minipump.jpg)The Therm-a-rest Mini Pump works off 2 AAA batteries. They do take a little effort to blow up so Therm-a-Rest have come up with the brilliant NeoAir Mini Pump (http://www.cascadedesigns.com/ie/therm-a-rest/accessories/neoair-mini-pump/product). This works with all Threm-a-Rest nozzles (so you could use it help inflate the huge Mondoking) and you will really feel the benefit as you pop the Mini Pump over the nozzle using the rubber tube and then get on with other tasks. It takes up very little room in the pack and with a couple of AAA Lithium batteries weighs no more than 65g. Just unfold the nozzle and it comes on, fold it back and it shuts off – nice and simple. I probably wouldn’t take it on an Alpine bivvi but for base camp and backpacking I definitely would as it saves a lot of effort. It has no automatic cut off so you’ll need to keep an eye on it. It’s a great little invention and solves the issue of time consuming inflation. It comes included with the NeoAir All season as well as a handy repair kit.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/08/thermarest-neoair-all-season.jpg?w=300&h=225) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/08/thermarest-neoair-all-season.jpg)The Therm-a-Rest NeoAir All Season filled my MSR tent. The width has been just right for my medium frame and I could happily toss and turn and not fall off it. It was also important to fully inflate the mattress as it can be little noisy when you move on it if you don’t.

All in all I feel the combination of the Therm-a-Rest Antares 15F/-9C  (http://www.cascadedesigns.com/therm-a-rest/sleeping-bags/antares-15-sleeping-bag/product)sleeping bag and the Therm-a-Rest NeoAir All Season  (http://www.cascadedesigns.com/ie/therm-a-rest/mattresses/trek-and-travel/neoair-all-season/product)mattress has been very good when used in the SynergyLink combination. It makes for a very warm, light and packable sleeping system that is great for backpacking and climbing basecamp adventures. The addition of the NeoAir Mini Pump (included with the mattress) is a great extra that really will save you some time and effort. For an alpine base bivvi just substitute the all season mat for a Prolite Plus (which is what I do) and for an on route bivvi for the great Z Lite matress (cut down to ¾ to save even more weight and space).

The Therm-a-Rest Anatres 15F/-9C sleeping bag comes in sizes Regular and Long and the NeoAir All Season comes on Medium, Regular and Long.

SRP Anatares bag: £320 (reg), £340 (long)

SRP NeoAir All Season: £125 (med and reg), £150 (long)

Stockists (http://www.cascadedesigns.com/Service/Dealer-Locator)

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Title: The North Face Wicked Crag Hoodie
Post by: comPiler on September 09, 2014, 07:00:10 pm
The North Face Wicked Crag Hoodie (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/09/09/the-north-face-wicked-crag-hoodie/)
9 September 2014, 3:52 pm

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/tnf-logo-e1382943588102.jpg?w=300&h=137) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/tnf-logo-e1382943588102.jpg)

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/the-north-face-wicked-crag-hoodie-e1410277886760.jpg?w=255&h=300) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/the-north-face-wicked-crag-hoodie-e1410277886760.jpg)

CGR Tester Katie takes a look at the nice looking Wicked Crag hoodies from The North Face Value for money: ***

Quality: ****

Performance: *****

It’s been a lovely summer so far with some crazy temperatures, but there have also been a few of those special days, sunshine and a cool breeze.  These are the days I’ve brought out The North Face  (http://www.thenorthface.co.uk/)Wicked Crag hoodie to wear.  The hoodie is made of a nice heathered fleece with brushed inside to keep you toasty and warm.  It has a Kangaroo style front pouch which works as a good mitt and a fitted hood for when the breeze picks up to a strong wind!  Other features are thumb loops (which aren’t annoying as the arms are quite long) and a hidden zip pocket on the side of the front pouch for the important things.  The fabric also has a UPF 30 sun protection to it, so no need to worry when the sun is shining down on winter days.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/the-north-face-wicked-crag-climbing.jpg?w=300&h=200) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/the-north-face-wicked-crag-climbing.jpg)The North Face Wicked Crag hoodie was great to climb in. There were a few things I wanted to check for whilst testing this hoodie; could I wear it whilst climbing, so was it stretchy and did it get sweaty.  How did it handle a few washes, does it bobble up or stay looking good.  These are the classic things I look for and I think I’ve had a fair test of them.

So was the hoodie any good to climb in?  The answer is yes; I was a little wary to start with as it didn’t feel that stretchy, but it doesn’t hinder movement and the hood stays out of the way due to the streamline design of it; It’s not really big enough for a helmet comfortably, but great with a beanie underneath.  It’s also good to mention it doesn’t have any annoying toggles to tighten the hood, it has some cool little elasticated fabric pull ties that keep well out of the way (a nice touch).  The sleeves aren’t that wide though so having climbers arms means they don’t pull over the forearms that easily at first. It’s been through a few washes and has the start of bobbling on the front pouch a bit but nowhere else and not in any extreme.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/the-north-face-wicked-crag-detail.jpg?w=200&h=300) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/the-north-face-wicked-crag-detail.jpg)Nice pockets and a zipped security one was a nice feature. In the past I’ve had clothing that’s been made of similar fabric which has got sweaty as soon as I’ve done anything vaguely sporty, so I assumed this would be the same; but it’s actually pretty good, it seems to breath quite well whilst keeping me at a good temperature.  I made sure I wore the hoodie in a number of different scenarios to get a good feel for it, one of which was cycling. Wearing it cycling showed it to be a great wind stopper, the fabric being as it is doesn’t let any wind through so keeps you toasty warm.  General lounging around and hanging out at the crag is comfortable and it’s pretty light weight so isn’t anything to worry about when packing light.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/the-north-face-wicked-crag-hood.jpg?w=300&h=200) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/the-north-face-wicked-crag-hood.jpg)The North Face Wicked Crag hoodie was nice and warm on those cooler days. Price wise at £70.00 RRP it’s bang in the middle of the warm midlayer hoodie prices.  The colours great (Fiery red) and it comes in a Dazzling blue and Fanfare green as well, so enough choice.

I really like this hoodie, I’ve been grabbing it as I leave the house all summer because I know it’ll be just the ticket to keep me warm when the balmy days turns to cool evenings.  I’m especially looking forward to wearing it this Autumn/Winter (which isn’t far away!  Ahh sweet friction).

Stockists (http://www.thenorthface.co.uk/)

 

 

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Title: Kouba Climbing – Abalak, Alu and Hex Nut Sets.
Post by: comPiler on September 15, 2014, 01:00:22 pm
Kouba Climbing – Abalak, Alu and Hex Nut Sets. (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/09/15/kouba-climbing-abalak-alu-and-hex-nut-sets/)
15 September 2014, 10:06 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/kouba-logo.jpg?w=388) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/kouba-logo.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/kouba-alunuts_set.jpg?w=300&h=200) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/kouba-alunuts_set.jpg)CGR gives the Kouba Climbing Nut Sets a full test to see if value means performance.
In Kouba, we understand specific needs of every climber, that’s, why we offer ten different shapes of nuts and three different types of cams.
Performance *** (Hexes ****)

Value ****

We are always keen to test climbing hardwear here at Climbing Gear Reviews; we’re out a lot, climbing a lot so an extra set of wires comes in very handy.

What originally drew my attention to Kouba Climbing  (http://www.koubaclimbing.co.uk/)was the set of Abalaks; the notion of a Tri-cam on wire seemed quirky and intriguing. As a point of interest my most frequent equipment loan is my Tri-cam #2, why? This sits perfectly in Millstone shot holes!

 

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/abalak-tricam.jpg?w=300&h=225) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/abalak-tricam.jpg)The Abalak 4 was about the same size as a Tricam 2. So any mate wanting to try Masters Edge or Edge Lane will be asking to lend it. I was drawn by the winter climbing potential of the Abalaks as Tri-cam work well in iced up horizontal cracks – particularly in areas like the Northern Corries.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/hex_set.jpg?w=300&h=200) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/hex_set.jpg)

But winter is long way off yet, so how have the Kouba Climbing  (http://www.koubaclimbing.co.uk/)sets performed on summer rock. Firstly the Hexes (http://www.koubaclimbing.co.uk/collections/nut-sets/products/hex). These have been great, they are very well made and the finish is excellent. The sizes come in #1-6 and the swages are colour coded to aid identification. I have a set of Black Diamond hexes on wire and the Kouba Hexes compare in quality. They were easy to place and easy to remove (although we did lose one on test which would not come out even after some-one had broken their nut key trying. This was down to the bizarre placement though).

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/kouba-hex-1.jpg?w=225&h=300) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/kouba-hex-1.jpg)The Kouba Hex was an excellent, totally bombproof piece of kit. They would be ideal on any rack and we found that these were easily the best nut on test. I would not hesitate to recommend these to students and friends alike. There’s not much more we can say about these, they are well made, well priced and are a tried and trusted nut shape. My preference is have a set of hexes on wire and not on tape – why? Well they sit easier on my harness and I find them easier to place, also the sound of hexes, dangling away like Swiss cowbells drives me crazy!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/kouba-alunuts_set-e1410189628111.jpg?w=300&h=200) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/kouba-alunuts_set-e1410189628111.jpg)

The Kouba Alu  (http://www.koubaclimbing.co.uk/collections/nut-sets/products/alu)nuts didn’t perform so well. Again they are well made and a great price. They placed really well and provided a bombroof placement in many cracks. I have used them everywhere this summer, Lake District mountain crags, Gogarth and Stanage and have found them great to place. The finish is also excellent and as with all Kouba Climbing nuts they are certified with the CE/EN safety mark, the certificates can be viewed on the Kouba website in the safety section (http://www.koubaclimbing.co.uk/pages/safety) which is a nice touch of transparency.

The issue we had with the Alu nuts is that the heads annoyingly slid up the wire when racked. It didn’t happen when placed as the weight of the quickdraw and rope kept everything in place. There was some discussion on rockclimbing.com about this.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/kouba-alu-1.jpg?w=300&h=225) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/kouba-alu-1.jpg)The Kouba Alu, fitted all cracks and provided a solid placement. My experience was that it was an extra annoyance when you needed to place it and having to pull the head back into place before placing. Kouba offer a technical explanation but it seemed a little over complicated to a simple wire and the benefits didn’t outweigh the nuisance value. Still they are great value and I’m sure this is something Kouba will address in due course. Another great value set of nuts though.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/kouba-set-e1410189779372.jpg?w=300&h=200) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/kouba-set-e1410189779372.jpg)

Finally the Abalaks (http://www.koubaclimbing.co.uk/collections/nut-sets/products/abalak), these are Tri-cams on wire so I was really keen to look at them. On test I found them very ‘springy’, which was a positive point as it helped keep the Abalak in place. They worked really well in Gritsone horizontal cracks and would work as good as a normal camming device for a fraction of the price.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/abalak-horizontal.jpg?w=225&h=300) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/abalak-horizontal.jpg)The Kouba Abalak was great in horizontal cracks. In vertical cracks they proved a little more tricky to place as sometimes I needed two hands to make sure it was seated correctly. In pockets the Abalaks were excellent, easy to place, there springiness kept them in place but did make them a little tricky to extract.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/abalak-pocket.jpg?w=300&h=225) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/abalak-pocket.jpg)The were great in pockets. The groove into which the wire sits when placed also seemed to protrude slightly from the top and I have some concern about this wearing on the wire over time. It’s something you would definitely have to watch for. As I said earlier in the review I was very interested in these for winter climbing and we are looking forward to using them this winter, we will update the review through the comments section later in the year so watch out for that. The Abalaks are a great first camming rack for those who can’t afford a full rack of conventional camming devices. The smaller sizes also work well as ‘micro’ cams.

In conclusion the Kouba Climbing Nut Sets have proved a well priced set of protection devices that would suit any rack, there are some issues with the Alu but the price will tempt many. The Hexes are very good and well worth the money and the Abalak’s will be great for those seeking a good range of camming for less than the price of one normal cam.

I think Kouba will begin to give the main manufacturers a run for their money, especially at the budget end of the market and watch for their camming devices coming soon.

SRP: Hex Set £40.00; Alu Set £48.00, Abalak Set £50.00

Stockists (http://www.koubaclimbing.co.uk/)

 

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Title: DMM Puma 2 Women’s Climbing Harness – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on September 17, 2014, 01:00:23 pm
DMM Puma 2 Women’s Climbing Harness – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/09/17/dmm-puma-2-womens-climbing-harness-climbing-gear-review/)
17 September 2014, 7:56 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/dmm-climbing-logo-rgb.jpg?w=300&h=139) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/10/dmm-climbing-logo-rgb.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/puma_new.jpg?w=300&h=214) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/11/puma_new.jpg)DMM Puma II CGR reviewer, Kasia takes DMM’s Puma 2 Women’s Rock Climbing Harness for a spin on everything from trad rock to snowy mountains. So what did she think? Performance ****

Value ****

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/p1090231.jpg?w=388&h=517) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/p1090231.jpg)A great all round harness and perfect for long rock routes.  

The Puma 2 Women’s harness is DMM’s top of the range all-rounder specifically shaped for the female form. So whether you’re looking to spend a season red-pointing or ice-climbing you’ve got the comfort factor and the gear loops to deal with it all.

 

It’s not the lightest harness, or most packable harness on the market but you can’t expect that with a work horse harness like this which is a jack of all trades. When I first got the Puma 2 the first thing I noticed and loved was the floating waist band. At last I could wear as many or as little layers as I wanted and I could still equalise the gear loops so I didn’t end up lopsided when wearing a full rack of gear. And with me that can be a lot. I’m still one of those climbers that can often be seen taking my whole rack up a route…’just in case’. Though I have learnt over the years that I don’t always need that number 11 Hex! Having worn the harness in both summer and winter I still love the floating waistband and for me it’s one of the best features that the Puma 2 has to offer.

 

As for carrying lots of gear you’ve got a minimum of 5 gear loops (7 on harness sizes medium and large) and 4 ‘Hypalon’ ice patches. Two of the Hypalon ice patches are between gear loops so you can still fully rack up with your trad gear without your ice screws getting in the way. Otherwise the front two ice patches sit in the middle of the front two gear loops for when you’re climbing predominately on ice and can sacrifice the front two loops. According to DMM, “The front gear loops on either side have had their orientation shifted to reduce bunching; this is particularly helpful on slabby ground or in constricted positions.” Put it this way I haven’t really noticed my gear getting in the way when climbing so I’m going to make the presumption that this shift in orientation works!

 

“The waist belt is constructed from high quality closed cell foam combined with a firm spreader plate.” Having worn the harness on single and multi-pitch routes and generally for all day outings I don’t recall ever moaning about it being uncomfortable so for me it certainly wins the comfort factor. Again I think the floating waistband helps with this, as it ensures that the padding always sits where it’s meant to. The leg loops are also slightly padded and the fact that the leg loops are also adjustable with Slide Lock buckles, means you’ve got a better chance of creating a fit that suits you. The leg loop adjustability also means it’s easier to put your harness on when wearing big boots and crampons in winter.

 

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/p1080531.jpg?w=388&h=688) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/p1080531.jpg)DMM Puma Women’s Harness – adjustable elg loops and ice clipper slots make this a great harness for mountaineering. All the buckles on the harness have been given rounded edges and a low profile to help stop them snagging in restricted climbing situations. Any spare webbing tails created when you’ve adjusted the harness can be tucked away under the elasticised retainers that have been fitted so they don’t get in the way.

 

So far I’ve worn the harness lots and it’s still wearing well which I’ll put down to the durable cordura fabric which DMM use. On top of this the harness’s tie in points are protected by an even tougher abrasion resistant webbing. When I said this was a bit of a work horse harness I meant it. Even the thinner looking belay loop still packs a punch rated at 25kN and its slimmer proportion is now suited ‘for better compatibility with small belay biners’.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/img_5152.jpg?w=388&h=517) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/img_5152.jpg)

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/p1090001.jpg?w=388&h=688) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/p1090001.jpg)…or UK trad. So have I discovered any negative points to this harness? Not really, though I do have two minor gripes, which only really came into play for me when wearing this harness in winter and others may not find this. The first is that the gear loops can sit quite flat against the harness, which meant when wearing gloves, I found it could be fiddly to attach and remove gear. I’ve found with other harnesses this can be easier when the gear loops stand slightly away from the waist belt. Secondly the narrow leg loop elastics at the back of the harness, the clips were a bit too narrow to undo and fasten easily when answering that call of nature. Hard enough with bare hands never mind when wearing a pair of gloves where it became an impossible task for me.

 

Taking these points away which I appreciate might be down to my fat finger glove wearing skills, the harness is great and a welcome addition to my kit. If you’re looking for light simplicity then this isn’t the harness for you. But if you want a hard wearing all-rounder that’s comfortable to wear all day that I’d certainly take a closer look at the DMM Puma 2.

 

 

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Title: The North Face Corona Climbing Pants – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on September 17, 2014, 01:00:23 pm
The North Face Corona Climbing Pants – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/09/17/the-north-face-corona-climbing-pants-climbing-gear-review/)
17 September 2014, 9:37 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/tnf-logo-e1382943588102.jpg?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/tnf-logo-e1382943588102.jpg)(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/79407_00_d.jpg?w=388&h=388) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/79407_00_d.jpg)Kev has been out in the Alps for much of the summer where he has been putting the very jazzy looking Corona Climbing Pants from The North Face, through their paces. So what was the verdict? Performance *****

Value ****

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/img_02181.jpg?w=388&h=517) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/img_02181.jpg)The North Face Corona Climbing Pants – great for technical rock climbing. The North Face say: “The Men’s Corona Climbing Pant by THE NORTH FACE is a Summit Series™ pant in TNF™ Apex Universal fabric with a tapered lower leg for unrestricted footwork.“

I have worn The North Face Corona Climbing Pants all summer for rock and alpine climbing. In short I have been super impressed with these pants. They are comfortable and durable. They have attracted a fair bit of attention from others too, although I expect that a lot of this is down to the garish ‘Salsa Red’ colour way! I was told numerous times that I “looked pretty Euro” or “would fit in well in Italy”, whatever that was meant to mean! Joking aside, these pants are fantastic for technical climbing and if the bright red colour way is not your thing, then TNF also do them in two slightly more conservative colours; grey and black.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/img_0241.jpg?w=388&h=517) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/img_0241.jpg)The North Face Corona Climbing Pants – great for mixed climbing. The Apex Universal fabric that The North Face use to produce the Corona Climbing Pant, is stretchy, breathable and fairly wind and water resistant. In terms of fit, the trousers are reasonably tight (not in a restrictive way, far from it in fact) or maybe narrow in the leg is a better description. They are designed to offer freedom of movement without having any extra fabric flapping in the way, which can potentially snag on rocks and crampon spikes. They do this perfectly, aided by the articulated knees and tapered legs. In fact the Corona climbing pants are slightly boot cut so that they sit perfectly over the top of mountaineering boots. Not so much as to get in the way when wearing rock shoes though. They also have tie down loops on the hems so you can add bungy elastics to stop them riding up which pretty much negates the need for gaiters. This is an essential feature on an alpine pant as far as I’m concerned.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/img_02291.jpg?w=388&h=291) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/img_02291.jpg)The North Face Corona Climbing Pants – a great fit with rock shoes or mountaineering boots. In terms of other features the Corona Climbing Pants are quite minimalist, which is one of the reasons I like them so much. They have two zippered pockets, a reversed fly zipper which is easier to access when wearing a harness (although it could do with the addition of a zipper tab) an awesome flat waist band which is super comfy and doesn’t interfere with a harness, and finally a simple webbing waist band to keep them in place.

 

On the rock I found the Corona Climbing Pants to be amazing, the excellent fit meant no restriction of movement, even on harder pitches and the neat fit meant there was no danger of snagging or catching on crampons whilst ice and mixed climbing. They’ve also been incredibly durable, surviving a whole summer of alpine granite, limestone, snow, ice and rubble without so much as a nick or tear.

 

So to conclude, the Corona Climbing Pants from The North Face are awesome. They have the best cut of any technical softshell climbing pant I have worn. They have all the features you need and do the job perfectly.

 

 

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Title: Boreal Marduk
Post by: comPiler on September 25, 2014, 07:00:11 pm
Boreal Marduk (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/09/25/boreal-marduk/)
25 September 2014, 3:55 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/boreal-new-logo.jpg?w=300&h=165) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/05/boreal-new-logo.jpg) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/11420-marduk-e1411376072891.jpg?w=300&h=200) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/11420-marduk-e1411376072891.jpg)

Dave tries out the new mid range Boreal Marduk to see if they can imbue him with God like powers. Performance ****

Fit ****

Value*****

Semi-asymmetric shoe with slightly down curved last shap. Comfortable and effective on any kind

of climb.
Marduk was a Babylonian God associated with magic and judgement. Boreal state that the shoe name has no connection with the god of magic, but I reckon anything helps!

The Boreal Marduk  (http://www.e-boreal.com/ing/comienzo.htm)is a mid range climbing shoe that sits nicely in the upper end of the improver/intermediate performance range. They are designed to compete with the Scarpa Vapour, Evolv Pontas. They are definitely not a starter shoe as they are too performance shaped. I was given the choice of shoes to test and chose these as I thought they had a wide appeal to a range of climbers.

Stylewise, they are asymmetric with a slightly downturned toe section. They are velcro fastening and interesting have a non-split, mesh tongue. The colour is a striking blue with orange flashing with the logo and name displayed on the heel and toe. The heel is low cut and was very comfortable around the Achilles heel, I never had any problems there as the split leather was very soft and supple.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/boreal-marduk-climbing-2-e1411376271131.jpg?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/boreal-marduk-climbing-2-e1411376271131.jpg)Boreal Marduk was great for trad climbing. When I spoke to the team at Boreal I was advise to size small. My normal test size is a UK 7.5 or a 41.5 as my trainer size is a UK8 or 42. So we agreed on a size UK size 7 and they duly arrived. However, they were too small so they had to be sent back and replaced with my usual 7.5. This just goes to show that it is important to go to a specialist retailer and try any climbing shoes on or at least by two sizes online and send one pair back.

The fit of the Boreal Marduk  (http://www.e-boreal.com/ing/comienzo.htm)was very precise with a tight toe box and well positioned heel. This allowed for a snug fit which was great for all the climbing activities on test. The sole was quite stiff when I first got them with the characteristic dome on the ball of the foot to help place the toes on the toe box. They have flattened out over the couple of months on test to develop into a great shape. The shoe is lined with a terry cotton like lining which had a great feel to them and help retain the shape and fit.

The toe shape was great for all styles of climbing and I have worn them teaching on VS routes to my personal climbing 7b+ as well as bouldering and lots of trad. They have performed very well in all these areas. They were not, however, an all day comfort shoe in the size tested. I could keep them on for two or three pitches, then after that they had to come off. They were also not overly comfortable to walk down in either. For instructing work I would like to have had a size UK8. A recent trip to the Ecrin had me having to slip the shoes off on belays. But they were fine, easy to get on and off and when the weather is that warm it’s always difficult to keep a shoe on all day – and performance wins over all day comfort.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/boreal-marduk-smear-e1411376349578.jpg?w=388&h=217) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/boreal-marduk-smear-e1411376349578.jpg)Although the midsole was stiff, they performed well on smears. One of the areas that Boreal consistently score well on test is in the heel and the Marduk didn’t disappoint. The heel was very comfortable and precise and didn’t budge an inch when heelhooking. There was no dead space at all and as I said earlier the soft, split leather and double heel tags meant that my Achilles heel was nice and comfy. The midsole was also very stiff, which made them great for edging. The stiffness has remained good throughout the test period.

The Velcro fastenings were robust and easy to use and most importantly the right size so there was little excess to get in the way of nifty footwork. I did like the way the top strap was wider and helped offer a better fit. What I didn’t like so much was the mesh tongue. This was a one piece affair that had a tendency to crumple slightly when I needed to really cinch the shoe up. I feel it would have been better split, but I do understand that this can often cause even more problems with a thick strip going down the middle of the foot. It wasn’t too much of an issue except on really hot days (but to be honest the agonising pain in my toes countered anything else!). Once the shoe had worn in there were no real problems getting the shoe on and off and the soft mesh was comfortable and very breathable.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/boreal-marduk.jpg?w=388&h=291) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/boreal-marduk.jpg)The Marduk was comfortable on big multi pitch routes. The rubber is the now established Zenith and is 4mm in thickness. I have always maintained that the market advantage for rubber has diminished over the years; escpecially in the mid grade range where comfort with a performance fit outweighs the friction advantage. The rubber however was excellent and provided good friction over a range of rock types. The Boreal Marduk  (http://www.e-boreal.com/ing/comienzo.htm)even performed on the polished hell that is Malham Cove reasonably well and that is praise indeed! It is always worth remembering that if you feel the friction of your climbing shoes has become rubbish then wash the soles in hot soapy water to bring them back to pristine condition.

So, in conclusion, the Boreal Marduk  (http://www.e-boreal.com/ing/comienzo.htm)is a great mid range performance shoe. It sit neatly in the new range of Boreal shoes and compares well with other shoes in the mid performance range such as the Scarpa Vapour. The price range is good and the quality is great. The colour is the calmest of the new range and I particularly liked the support from the stiffened sole, the heel and the comfort of the split leather heel.

Oh, of course, the Babylonian God like powers? I’m still working on that :-)

Price £99.95

Stockists. (http://www.e-boreal.com/ing/comienzo.htm)

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Title: Petzl Meteor 4
Post by: comPiler on October 06, 2014, 07:00:29 pm
Petzl Meteor 4 (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/10/06/petzl-meteor-4/)
6 October 2014, 3:33 pm

 (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/petzl-logo-720x356.jpg?w=300&h=148) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/petzl-logo-720x356.jpg)  (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/petzl-meteor-41-e1411980631609.jpg?w=245&h=300) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/petzl-meteor-41-e1411980631609.jpg) We test out the new and updated iconic climbing helmet from Petzl with the oh so brilliant magnetic clip.  Performance *****

Style****

Value***** (what price can you put on your head?)

Lightness and comfort have made the METEOR helmet a signature product for climbing and mountaineering. This model has the advantage of large openings for excellent ventilation.
I never really was a helmet sort of person, for years I spurned them in favour of freedom and the feeling of the breeze through my hair. Climbing helmets in those days were big and bulky affairs. They were ugly looking, heavy and felt cumbersome with complaints such as ‘ I always scrape my head against the rock when I’m wearing a helmet and never when I’m not’.

Then Petzl bought out the radical Meteor helmet, this was a revelation. This blew away the concept of a tough resin dome and a cat’s cradle of webbing inside and bought cycling helmet technology to climbers. Light, stylish (for those days) and colourful. It even had dials you could twiddle! Since then I’ve always worn a helmet in the mountains. I still climb helmet free; for single pitch sport climbing or climbing on a less busy outcrop. Professionally I feel I need to set good practice so always wear the latest model of lightweight helmet and am happy to discuss the pros and cons of different helmet styles.

I have owned and wore every model of Petzl Meteor  (http://www.petzl.com/en/Sport/Helmets/METEOR?l=INT#.VCZ1_md0zGI)helmet since they came out and still have the Meteor III+, which I thought was one of the very best climbing helmets out there. Petzl have ditched the numeric and gone back to just naming the helmet the Petzl Meteor (http://www.petzl.com/en/Sport/Helmets/METEOR?l=INT#.VCZ1_md0zGI). A quick Google search however will reveal that most retailers are calling it the Meteor 4. The new Meteor comes in two sizes: size 1 for smaller heads and size 2 for average to large. The cradle range is plenty big enough to accommodate most head sizes and there is some overlap, do measure your head though and don’t forget that you may well be wearing a hat with the helmet on.

The Petzl Meteor still retains the classic Meteor III shape with some very subtle changes: more vents which are slightly larger which helps regulate the temperature when climbing aerobically (such as climbing a snow field or approaching the base of a route)’ a redesigned rear which reduces the bulk of the helmet and makes it look and feel more sleek when wearing it.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/petzle-meteor-rear.jpg?w=300&h=225) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/petzle-meteor-rear.jpg)Le nouveau derriere! More venting and the gap disappears. The headtorch clips have been slightly recessed and cleverly (oh so French) designed into the helmet again to reduce the bulk and make the helmet feel compact to look at and wear. The clips worked really well with both single and overhead headtorch straps and once clipped into place any headtorch was firmly locked in.

The adjustable cradle on the Petzl Meteor  (http://www.petzl.com/en/Sport/Helmets/METEOR?l=INT#.VCZ1_md0zGI)was very easy to operate. It worked best when the helmet was actually on. There are two white buttons on either side of the cradle. Just depress these and the cradle will adjust outwards. If the cradle needs to be smaller it’s easy to place your thumbs just above and behind your ears then press and push the buttons towards your thumb. This worked just as well with gloves on (but was more tricky with larger belay gloves – as you would expect). But once adjusted at the beginning of the climbing day it never moved. The surface of the cradle was wider in crucial areas and the material rubberised to help keep the cradle firmly in place.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/boreal-marduk.jpg?w=300&h=225) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/boreal-marduk.jpg)Light to wear and well ventilated for all day wear. There are some velcro fastened foam inserts to keep your head away from the expanded polystyrene. These can be removed for washing and you get a spare pair in the box as well as a protective cover.

The chin strap was easy enough to adjust and I would always advise spending some time this is done correctly. I spent a considerable amount of time adjusting clients helmets correctly when working. A lopsided helmet is not only ineffective it looks really uncool! The forward adjustment was easily done by pushing the strap forward then pulling the other side. It is then locked into place with serrated teeth. Backwards adjustment was very slightly harder but nothing too difficult it just needed a little more fiddly pushing.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/petzl-meteor-34.jpg?w=225&h=300) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/petzl-meteor-34.jpg)The Petzl Meteor III and 4. Showing the improved vents. Then of course there is the magnetic closure – did I mention magnetic? Yes of course I did. This first appeared on the Petzl Sirocco helmet last year and is a great little feature. One of my bugbears is chin straps clasps, always fiddly to close, especially with gloves on. Petzl have elegantly solved this with the addition of two small magnets. This then becomes a joy to use, as soon as the two parts come to meet together the magnet guides the clips into place and ‘click!’ they’re firmly clipped together. A joyous piece of French design, that although small is a delight to use.

In conclusion, the Petzl Meteor  (http://www.petzl.com/en/Sport/Helmets/METEOR?l=INT#.VCZ1_md0zGI)is great update. I’ve been using the Meteor III+ for a while for both climbing and mountain biking and I feel the new one is worth the upgrade. It feels more compact, lighter to wear and supremely comfortable. The new, larger vents help keep my head cooler. The straps are easy to adjust and the magnetic clip is great. The overall, compact shape and the new colour scheme makes the helmet look cool too. The Petzl Meteor (http://www.petzl.com/en/Sport/Helmets/METEOR?l=INT#.VCZ1_md0zGI) climbing helmet has always been and will remain an iconic piece of climbing equipment.

 SRP £80.00 for both sizes.

 Stockists

 

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Title: Arc’teryx Morphic Zip Neck Long Sleeve Top – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on October 07, 2014, 01:02:05 am
Arc’teryx Morphic Zip Neck Long Sleeve Top – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/10/06/arcteryx-morphic-zip-neck-long-sleeve-top-climbing-gear-review/)
6 October 2014, 7:38 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx1.jpg?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2011/02/logo_arcteryx1.jpg)(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/morphic-zip-neck-ls-cayenne.png?w=270&h=300) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/morphic-zip-neck-ls-cayenne.png) We try and get Kev to finally take off his Arc’teryx Morphic Zip Neck Long Sleeve Top and tell us what he thinks of it! Performance *****

Style*****

Value****

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/img_0269.jpg?w=388&h=291) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/img_0269.jpg)Arc’teryx Morphic Zip Neck Long Sleeve Top – great for rock climbing. Note the tougher fabric used on the forearm areas. In this photo Kev is climbing Trenke Crack on the First Sella Tower, Sella Group, Dolomites, Italy. Arc’teryx say that the Morphic Zip Neck Long Sleeve Top is a: “Versatile alpine, ice, expedition and rock climbing Phasic™ AR-X zip neck wicks moisture and provides stretch performance to rock, ice and alpine climbers. Reinforced with Enduraflex™ in zones prone to abrasion.”

 

Certain pieces of clothing become everyday, go-to items and this usually means that they’re pretty good. Having used the Morphic  Zip Neck Long Sleeve Top from Arc’teryx, over the whole of the summer climbing season in both the UK and the European Alps, I have realised that it is one such item. And I have continued to wear it into the Autumn too. (It has been washed during this time, I promise!)

So, the Morphic Zip Neck Long Sleeve Top is a mid weight top, best worn next to the skin. The Phasic AR-X fabric is comfortable and stretchy allowing freedom of movement, with a close fit. As you’d expect from Arc’teryx, the excellent fit comes from an almost tailored anatomical patterning with underarm gussets that allow freedom of movement when climbing and a nice stretch so it fits closely but doesn’t feel restrictive. The waist length cut means it sits nicely under your harness waist belt as well, and it doesn’t ride up when running or wearing a pack.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/1979767_10152424128410552_7998790159428743561_n.jpg?w=388&h=291) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/1979767_10152424128410552_7998790159428743561_n.jpg)Arc’teryx Morphic Zip Neck Long Sleeve Top – a great cut for climbing rock or ice. Here in use on the Pembrokeshire sea cliffs, South Wales. The zip neck helps with venting on hot, sweaty approaches or when running (which it is also perfect for). I have worn the Morphic whilst approaching alpine routes, running in the mountains, rock climbing, bouldering and as a heavier weight base layer under my shell on cooler days. In some ways, there is not an awful lot to say about it but this definitely does not mean it is ordinary. In my opinion the best kit is usually pretty simple and it is generally this simplicity that means it “just works”! This is definitely the case with the Morphic.

The main “feature” that makes it a little bit different is the addition of enduraflex fabric (a kind of light softshell fabric) on the high wear areas of the forearms. This is definitely an area that wears out quickly on many of my other baselayer tops that I use a lot whilst rock climbing. On the Morphic however, there is no sign of any wear at all. The fabric is nice and stretchy and also light and smooth against the skin too. One final feature I’d like to mention is that the Morphic sports factor 50+ UPF sun protection. This is great if you are of the sun intolerant, albino brand of skin that I’m made of!

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/photo-4-e1412623680773.jpg?w=388&h=688) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/photo-4-e1412623680773.jpg)I was glad of the zip neck for venting and the factor 50+ sun protection! The Arc’teryx Morphic Zip Neck Long Sleeve Top was fantastic for long rock routes like the 650m classic F7a, Rank Xerox on Tete D’Aval in the Ecrins, France. So, to conclude, the Morphic Zip Neck Long Sleeve Top from Arc’teryx is a versatile mid weight thermal top with a twist. It is perfect for summer rock climbs, running or alpine routes on hot days. It is also the basis of a great layering system. Wear it on the approach then layer up over the top as you slow down on more technical ground. A great cut, high quality, durable fabrics and excellent wicking ability make it a mountain wardrobe favourite. Simple does the trick again!

Also available as a crew neck. (http://arcteryx.com/product.aspx?gender=mens&model=Morphic-Crew-LS&language=EN)

  • RRP: £80
  • Find out more and buy at the Arc’teryx website. (http://arcteryx.com/product.aspx?language=EN&gender=mens&category=Shirts_and_Tops&model=Morphic-Zip-Neck-LS)
 

 

 


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Title: Petzl Meteor 4 Climbing Helmet – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on October 08, 2014, 01:00:23 am
Petzl Meteor 4 Climbing Helmet – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/10/06/petzl-meteor-4/)
6 October 2014, 3:33 pm

 (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/petzl-logo-720x356.jpg?w=300&h=148) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/petzl-logo-720x356.jpg)  (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/petzl-meteor-41-e1411980631609.jpg?w=245&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/petzl-meteor-41-e1411980631609.jpg) We test out the new and updated iconic climbing helmet from Petzl with the oh so brilliant magnetic clip.  Performance *****

Style****

Value***** (what price can you put on your head?)

Lightness and comfort have made the METEOR helmet a signature product for climbing and mountaineering. This model has the advantage of large openings for excellent ventilation.
I never really was a helmet sort of person, for years I spurned them in favour of freedom and the feeling of the breeze through my hair. Climbing helmets in those days were big and bulky affairs. They were ugly looking, heavy and felt cumbersome with complaints such as ‘ I always scrape my head against the rock when I’m wearing a helmet and never when I’m not’.

Then Petzl bought out the radical Meteor helmet, this was a revelation. This blew away the concept of a tough resin dome and a cat’s cradle of webbing inside and bought cycling helmet technology to climbers. Light, stylish (for those days) and colourful. It even had dials you could twiddle! Since then I’ve always worn a helmet in the mountains. I still climb helmet free; for single pitch sport climbing or climbing on a less busy outcrop. Professionally I feel I need to set good practice so always wear the latest model of lightweight helmet and am happy to discuss the pros and cons of different helmet styles.

I have owned and wore every model of Petzl Meteor  (http://www.petzl.com/en/Sport/Helmets/METEOR?l=INT#.VCZ1_md0zGI)helmet since they came out and still have the Meteor III+, which I thought was one of the very best climbing helmets out there. Petzl have ditched the numeric and gone back to just naming the helmet the Petzl Meteor (http://www.petzl.com/en/Sport/Helmets/METEOR?l=INT#.VCZ1_md0zGI). A quick Google search however will reveal that most retailers are calling it the Meteor 4. The new Meteor comes in two sizes: size 1 for smaller heads and size 2 for average to large. The cradle range is plenty big enough to accommodate most head sizes and there is some overlap, do measure your head though and don’t forget that you may well be wearing a hat with the helmet on.

The Petzl Meteor still retains the classic Meteor III shape with some very subtle changes: more vents which are slightly larger which helps regulate the temperature when climbing aerobically (such as climbing a snow field or approaching the base of a route)’ a redesigned rear which reduces the bulk of the helmet and makes it look and feel more sleek when wearing it.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/petzle-meteor-rear.jpg?w=300&h=225) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/petzle-meteor-rear.jpg)Le nouveau derriere! More venting and the gap disappears. The headtorch clips have been slightly recessed and cleverly (oh so French) designed into the helmet again to reduce the bulk and make the helmet feel compact to look at and wear. The clips worked really well with both single and overhead headtorch straps and once clipped into place any headtorch was firmly locked in.

The adjustable cradle on the Petzl Meteor  (http://www.petzl.com/en/Sport/Helmets/METEOR?l=INT#.VCZ1_md0zGI)was very easy to operate. It worked best when the helmet was actually on. There are two white buttons on either side of the cradle. Just depress these and the cradle will adjust outwards. If the cradle needs to be smaller it’s easy to place your thumbs just above and behind your ears then press and push the buttons towards your thumb. This worked just as well with gloves on (but was more tricky with larger belay gloves – as you would expect). But once adjusted at the beginning of the climbing day it never moved. The surface of the cradle was wider in crucial areas and the material rubberised to help keep the cradle firmly in place.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/boreal-marduk.jpg?w=300&h=225) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/boreal-marduk.jpg)Light to wear and well ventilated for all day wear. There are some velcro fastened foam inserts to keep your head away from the expanded polystyrene. These can be removed for washing and you get a spare pair in the box as well as a protective cover.

The chin strap was easy enough to adjust and I would always advise spending some time this is done correctly. I spent a considerable amount of time adjusting clients helmets correctly when working. A lopsided helmet is not only ineffective it looks really uncool! The forward adjustment was easily done by pushing the strap forward then pulling the other side. It is then locked into place with serrated teeth. Backwards adjustment was very slightly harder but nothing too difficult it just needed a little more fiddly pushing.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/petzl-meteor-34.jpg?w=225&h=300) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/petzl-meteor-34.jpg)The Petzl Meteor III and 4. Showing the improved vents. Then of course there is the magnetic closure – did I mention magnetic? Yes of course I did. This first appeared on the Petzl Sirocco helmet last year and is a great little feature. One of my bugbears is chin straps clasps, always fiddly to close, especially with gloves on. Petzl have elegantly solved this with the addition of two small magnets. This then becomes a joy to use, as soon as the two parts come to meet together the magnet guides the clips into place and ‘click!’ they’re firmly clipped together. A joyous piece of French design, that although small is a delight to use.

In conclusion, the Petzl Meteor  (http://www.petzl.com/en/Sport/Helmets/METEOR?l=INT#.VCZ1_md0zGI)is great update. I’ve been using the Meteor III+ for a while for both climbing and mountain biking and I feel the new one is worth the upgrade. It feels more compact, lighter to wear and supremely comfortable. The new, larger vents help keep my head cooler. The straps are easy to adjust and the magnetic clip is great. The overall, compact shape and the new colour scheme makes the helmet look cool too. The Petzl Meteor (http://www.petzl.com/en/Sport/Helmets/METEOR?l=INT#.VCZ1_md0zGI) climbing helmet has always been and will remain an iconic piece of climbing equipment.

 SRP £80.00 for both sizes.

 Stockists

 

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Title: Black Diamond Sabretooth Stainless Crampons – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on October 08, 2014, 01:00:23 am
Black Diamond Sabretooth Stainless Crampons – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/10/07/black-diamond-sabretooth-stainless-crampons-climbing-gear-review/)
7 October 2014, 8:08 pm

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/blackdiamond_standrd_neg.jpg?w=388) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/blackdiamond_standrd_neg.jpg)(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/index.jpg?w=388) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/index.jpg)

Performance *****

Value*****

Black Diamond say: “Our best all-around crampon, the Sabretooth features a lightweight stainless steel design and versatile horizontal frontpoints. Available in a Pro or Clip version.”

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/p1060157.jpg?w=388&h=291) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/p1060157.jpg)Black Diamond Sabretooth Crampons – a great all round mountaineering crampon that will help get you into awesome places like this! Brunneghorn, Switzerland. I’ve tested the Sabretooth crampons for both a full winter and full summer season now. I’ve used them for everything; Scottish mixed ridges, big alpine faces, mixed climbing and ski mountaineering, you name it and they’ve done it. You’re probably already getting the impression that this crampon is a great allrounder, and you’d be right! The Sabretooth is just as happy climbing grade V gullies on Ben Nevis as it is on the NE Ridge of Barre Des Ecrin.

The Sabretooth is definitely constructed more in the classic ilk of an all round mountaineering crampon. The horizontal frontpoints and 12 sidepoints offer greater security on classic snowy faces and moderate ice whilst the slightly more aggressive secondary frontpoints allow greater bite on hard ice. For difficult, more technical ice and mixed I’d personally go for a monopoint such as the Stinger, but as a one quiver crampon to take me up classic TD+ faces and grade 5 ice, I wouldn’t have a problem taking the Sabretooth anywhere. I found the vertical frontpoints very stable on rock compared to other similar crampons I have used.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/10635938_10152643248520552_5566904491427320456_n.jpg?w=388&h=517) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/10635938_10152643248520552_5566904491427320456_n.jpg)Black Diamond Sabretooth Crampons – the horizontal frontpoints worked well on mixed ground. Le Rateau West, Ecrins, France. In terms of fit, the Sabretooths are very versatile. I’ve worn mine on Scarpa Phantom Guides, La Sportiva Trango Guides, La Sportiva Spantiks and my Dynafit ski touring boots. I’ve not had an issue with fitting them to any of these. The central bar adjusts easily (and a longer bar is available for those with larger feet) whilst the heel clip has extra hole options for tweaking the fit and a micro adjustment wheel, that I found easy to use, even in the field. Black Diamond offer 2 toe bail options. The Pro, a wire bail which works on rigid boots with both toe and heel welts, and a the Clip, a plastic bail which only requires heel welts. I chose the Clip version for greater versatility.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/p1080871.jpg?w=388&h=517) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/p1080871.jpg)Black Diamond Sabretooth Crampons – Clip version on ski boots. The Sabretooth crampons are semi rigid because the central bar flexes. The amount of flex however, is largely dictated by the boots you fasten them to. If the boots are rigid then the crampon will be pretty rigid, whereas if the boots are more flexible then the crampons will flex with them.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/10629881_10152643249150552_7253537425143777327_n.jpg?w=388&h=517) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/10629881_10152643249150552_7253537425143777327_n.jpg)Black Diamond Sabretooth Crampons – Clip version on more flexible lightweight mountaineering boots (at lunchtime!) I have been very very impressed with the quality of the Sabretooth crampons. Straps, buckles, bars and the bespoke antibott anti balling plates are all manufactured to the highest quality. I’ve used these crampons for 8 months and they’re still looking good. I find the anti balling plates to do a great job, but they do feel quite hard compared to some others I have used but I only find this to be an issue on the late in the day, sticky summer snow. Then I have to be mindful as snow does tend to build up on the bottoms and I have to occasionally knock the bases with my ice axe, in order to clear it off.

 

When stainless steel first started to be used to produce crampons a lot was made of the benefits, with many claiming that it was actually lighter than carbon steel. This is in fact, not true, with carbon steel and stainless steel actually weighing the same. What is true however, is that stainless steel does not rust, is more resistant to blunting (I can vouch for this here), and is tougher and stronger. Which is perhaps where the lightweight claim came from as in theory this allows you to make the same crampon as a carbon steel one, but with less steel? Just for the record, the Sabretooth weighs 925g per pair including the antiballing plates.

 

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/10636007_10152643247045552_3840582536948133834_n.jpg?w=388&h=517) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/10636007_10152643247045552_3840582536948133834_n.jpg)Black Diamond Sabretooth Crampons – great on snow, ice or rock – built to handle the mixed demands of classic mountaineering.  

To conclude, the Sabretooth crampons from Black Diamond are an awesome classic 12 point crampon, that I really am struggling to find any fault with at all. They do everything well, whether it be classic snow climbs, moderate ice routes or ski mountaineering. They adjust easily, are high quality and the stainless steel doesn’t rust or wear out quickly. I wouldn’t hesitate to take these on my next trip into the mountains.

 

 

 

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Title: Petzl Meteor 4 – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on October 08, 2014, 07:00:21 pm
Petzl Meteor 4 – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/10/06/petzl-meteor-4/)
6 October 2014, 3:33 pm

 (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/petzl-logo-720x356.jpg?w=300&h=148) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/petzl-logo-720x356.jpg)  (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/petzl-meteor-41-e1411980631609.jpg?w=245&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/petzl-meteor-41-e1411980631609.jpg) We test out the new and updated iconic climbing helmet from Petzl with the oh so brilliant magnetic clip.  Performance *****

Style****

Value***** (what price can you put on your head?)

Lightness and comfort have made the METEOR helmet a signature product for climbing and mountaineering. This model has the advantage of large openings for excellent ventilation.
I never really was a helmet sort of person, for years I spurned them in favour of freedom and the feeling of the breeze through my hair. Climbing helmets in those days were big and bulky affairs. They were ugly looking, heavy and felt cumbersome with complaints such as ‘ I always scrape my head against the rock when I’m wearing a helmet and never when I’m not’.

Then Petzl bought out the radical Meteor helmet, this was a revelation. This blew away the concept of a tough resin dome and a cat’s cradle of webbing inside and bought cycling helmet technology to climbers. Light, stylish (for those days) and colourful. It even had dials you could twiddle! Since then I’ve always worn a helmet in the mountains. I still climb helmet free; for single pitch sport climbing or climbing on a less busy outcrop. Professionally I feel I need to set good practice so always wear the latest model of lightweight helmet and am happy to discuss the pros and cons of different helmet styles.

I have owned and wore every model of Petzl Meteor  (http://www.petzl.com/en/Sport/Helmets/METEOR?l=INT#.VCZ1_md0zGI)helmet since they came out and still have the Meteor III+, which I thought was one of the very best climbing helmets out there. Petzl have ditched the numeric and gone back to just naming the helmet the Petzl Meteor (http://www.petzl.com/en/Sport/Helmets/METEOR?l=INT#.VCZ1_md0zGI). A quick Google search however will reveal that most retailers are calling it the Meteor 4. The new Meteor comes in two sizes: size 1 for smaller heads and size 2 for average to large. The cradle range is plenty big enough to accommodate most head sizes and there is some overlap, do measure your head though and don’t forget that you may well be wearing a hat with the helmet on.

The Petzl Meteor still retains the classic Meteor III shape with some very subtle changes: more vents which are slightly larger which helps regulate the temperature when climbing aerobically (such as climbing a snow field or approaching the base of a route)’ a redesigned rear which reduces the bulk of the helmet and makes it look and feel more sleek when wearing it.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/petzle-meteor-rear.jpg?w=300&h=225) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/petzle-meteor-rear.jpg)Le nouveau derriere! More venting and the gap disappears. The headtorch clips have been slightly recessed and cleverly (oh so French) designed into the helmet again to reduce the bulk and make the helmet feel compact to look at and wear. The clips worked really well with both single and overhead headtorch straps and once clipped into place any headtorch was firmly locked in.

The adjustable cradle on the Petzl Meteor  (http://www.petzl.com/en/Sport/Helmets/METEOR?l=INT#.VCZ1_md0zGI)was very easy to operate. It worked best when the helmet was actually on. There are two white buttons on either side of the cradle. Just depress these and the cradle will adjust outwards. If the cradle needs to be smaller it’s easy to place your thumbs just above and behind your ears then press and push the buttons towards your thumb. This worked just as well with gloves on (but was more tricky with larger belay gloves – as you would expect). But once adjusted at the beginning of the climbing day it never moved. The surface of the cradle was wider in crucial areas and the material rubberised to help keep the cradle firmly in place.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/boreal-marduk.jpg?w=300&h=225) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/boreal-marduk.jpg)Light to wear and well ventilated for all day wear. There are some velcro fastened foam inserts to keep your head away from the expanded polystyrene. These can be removed for washing and you get a spare pair in the box as well as a protective cover.

The chin strap was easy enough to adjust and I would always advise spending some time this is done correctly. I spent a considerable amount of time adjusting clients helmets correctly when working. A lopsided helmet is not only ineffective it looks really uncool! The forward adjustment was easily done by pushing the strap forward then pulling the other side. It is then locked into place with serrated teeth. Backwards adjustment was very slightly harder but nothing too difficult it just needed a little more fiddly pushing.

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/petzl-meteor-34.jpg?w=225&h=300) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/09/petzl-meteor-34.jpg)The Petzl Meteor III and 4. Showing the improved vents. Then of course there is the magnetic closure – did I mention magnetic? Yes of course I did. This first appeared on the Petzl Sirocco helmet last year and is a great little feature. One of my bugbears is chin straps clasps, always fiddly to close, especially with gloves on. Petzl have elegantly solved this with the addition of two small magnets. This then becomes a joy to use, as soon as the two parts come to meet together the magnet guides the clips into place and ‘click!’ they’re firmly clipped together. A joyous piece of French design, that although small is a delight to use.

In conclusion, the Petzl Meteor  (http://www.petzl.com/en/Sport/Helmets/METEOR?l=INT#.VCZ1_md0zGI)is great update. I’ve been using the Meteor III+ for a while for both climbing and mountain biking and I feel the new one is worth the upgrade. It feels more compact, lighter to wear and supremely comfortable. The new, larger vents help keep my head cooler. The straps are easy to adjust and the magnetic clip is great. The overall, compact shape and the new colour scheme makes the helmet look cool too. The Petzl Meteor (http://www.petzl.com/en/Sport/Helmets/METEOR?l=INT#.VCZ1_md0zGI) climbing helmet has always been and will remain an iconic piece of climbing equipment.

 SRP £80.00 for both sizes.

 Stockists

 

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Title: Black Diamond Sabretooth Crampons – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on October 08, 2014, 07:00:22 pm
Black Diamond Sabretooth Crampons – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/10/07/black-diamond-sabretooth-stainless-crampons-climbing-gear-review/)
7 October 2014, 8:08 pm

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/blackdiamond_standrd_neg.jpg?w=388) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/blackdiamond_standrd_neg.jpg)(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/index.jpg?w=388) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/index.jpg)

Performance *****

Value*****

Black Diamond say: “Our best all-around crampon, the Sabretooth features a lightweight stainless steel design and versatile horizontal frontpoints. Available in a Pro or Clip version.”

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/p1060157.jpg?w=388&h=291) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/p1060157.jpg)Black Diamond Sabretooth Crampons – a great all round mountaineering crampon that will help get you into awesome places like this! Brunneghorn, Switzerland. I’ve tested the Sabretooth crampons for both a full winter and full summer season now. I’ve used them for everything; Scottish mixed ridges, big alpine faces, mixed climbing and ski mountaineering, you name it and they’ve done it. You’re probably already getting the impression that this crampon is a great allrounder, and you’d be right! The Sabretooth is just as happy climbing grade V gullies on Ben Nevis as it is on the NE Ridge of Barre Des Ecrin.

The Sabretooth is definitely constructed more in the classic ilk of an all round mountaineering crampon. The horizontal frontpoints and 12 sidepoints offer greater security on classic snowy faces and moderate ice whilst the slightly more aggressive secondary frontpoints allow greater bite on hard ice. For difficult, more technical ice and mixed I’d personally go for a monopoint such as the Stinger, but as a one quiver crampon to take me up classic TD+ faces and grade 5 ice, I wouldn’t have a problem taking the Sabretooth anywhere. I found the vertical frontpoints very stable on rock compared to other similar crampons I have used.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/10635938_10152643248520552_5566904491427320456_n.jpg?w=388&h=517) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/10635938_10152643248520552_5566904491427320456_n.jpg)Black Diamond Sabretooth Crampons – the horizontal frontpoints worked well on mixed ground. Le Rateau West, Ecrins, France. In terms of fit, the Sabretooths are very versatile. I’ve worn mine on Scarpa Phantom Guides, La Sportiva Trango Guides, La Sportiva Spantiks and my Dynafit ski touring boots. I’ve not had an issue with fitting them to any of these. The central bar adjusts easily (and a longer bar is available for those with larger feet) whilst the heel clip has extra hole options for tweaking the fit and a micro adjustment wheel, that I found easy to use, even in the field. Black Diamond offer 2 toe bail options. The Pro, a wire bail which works on rigid boots with both toe and heel welts, and a the Clip, a plastic bail which only requires heel welts. I chose the Clip version for greater versatility.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/p1080871.jpg?w=388&h=517) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/p1080871.jpg)Black Diamond Sabretooth Crampons – Clip version on ski boots. The Sabretooth crampons are semi rigid because the central bar flexes. The amount of flex however, is largely dictated by the boots you fasten them to. If the boots are rigid then the crampon will be pretty rigid, whereas if the boots are more flexible then the crampons will flex with them.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/10629881_10152643249150552_7253537425143777327_n.jpg?w=388&h=517) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/10629881_10152643249150552_7253537425143777327_n.jpg)Black Diamond Sabretooth Crampons – Clip version on more flexible lightweight mountaineering boots (at lunchtime!) I have been very very impressed with the quality of the Sabretooth crampons. Straps, buckles, bars and the bespoke antibott anti balling plates are all manufactured to the highest quality. I’ve used these crampons for 8 months and they’re still looking good. I find the anti balling plates to do a great job, but they do feel quite hard compared to some others I have used but I only find this to be an issue on the late in the day, sticky summer snow. Then I have to be mindful as snow does tend to build up on the bottoms and I have to occasionally knock the bases with my ice axe, in order to clear it off.

 

When stainless steel first started to be used to produce crampons a lot was made of the benefits, with many claiming that it was actually lighter than carbon steel. This is in fact, not true, with carbon steel and stainless steel actually weighing the same. What is true however, is that stainless steel does not rust, is more resistant to blunting (I can vouch for this here), and is tougher and stronger. Which is perhaps where the lightweight claim came from as in theory this allows you to make the same crampon as a carbon steel one, but with less steel? Just for the record, the Sabretooth weighs 925g per pair including the antiballing plates.

 

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/10636007_10152643247045552_3840582536948133834_n.jpg?w=388&h=517) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/10636007_10152643247045552_3840582536948133834_n.jpg)Black Diamond Sabretooth Crampons – great on snow, ice or rock – built to handle the mixed demands of classic mountaineering.  

To conclude, the Sabretooth crampons from Black Diamond are an awesome classic 12 point crampon, that I really am struggling to find any fault with at all. They do everything well, whether it be classic snow climbs, moderate ice routes or ski mountaineering. They adjust easily, are high quality and the stainless steel doesn’t rust or wear out quickly. I wouldn’t hesitate to take these on my next trip into the mountains.

 

 

 

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Title: Wild Country Pro Guide Lite
Post by: comPiler on October 09, 2014, 07:00:19 pm
Wild Country Pro Guide Lite (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/10/09/wild-country-pro-guide-lite/)
9 October 2014, 2:14 pm

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/wildcountry_logo.png?w=388) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/wildcountry_logo.png)

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/pro-guide-lite-lo.jpg?w=199&h=300) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/pro-guide-lite-lo.jpg) We give an update on the updated Wild Country Pro Guide in the form of the Pro Guide Lite We reviewed the Wild Country Pro Guide  (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/11/25/wild-country-guide-pro-climbing-gear-review/)last year and we’ve been sent the updated Lite model for a test. So what’s different? Well it works in exactly the same way and is 15g lighter due to material in the three walls being removed.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/img_0017.jpg?w=300&h=225) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/img_0017.jpg)The Wild Country Pro Guide Lite feels much lighter. So all the benefits with less weight, what’s not to like! I’ve been using the Wild Country Pro Guide all season since I’ve tested it and it’s worked brilliantly, I’ve used with my skinny double rope and my massively fat working 11mm rope and it’s worked great every time. It’s been a great addition to my rack and any chance to lighten the load will be taken so I’m replacing it with the Pro Guide Lite (http://www.wildcountry.com/products/belay-devices/pro-guide-lite/). The plate also comes as set with the Synergy Lite  (http://www.wildcountry.com/products/screwgate-karabiners/synergy-lite-keylock-screwgate/)HMS scewgate carabiner.

SRP: Pro Guide Lite £24.00,  Pro Guide Lite Set £30.00

Stockists

 

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Title: Black Diamond Raven Ultra Ice Axe – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on October 09, 2014, 07:00:19 pm
Black Diamond Raven Ultra Ice Axe – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/10/09/black-diamond-raven-ultra-ice-axe-climbing-gear-review/)
9 October 2014, 5:12 pm

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/blackdiamond_standrd_neg.jpg?w=388) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2010/10/blackdiamond_standrd_neg.jpg)(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/index1.jpg?w=388) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/index1.jpg)We’ve used the Black Diamond Raven Ultra Ice Axe on classic alpine routes, ski tours and approaches. So what did we think? Performance ****

Value ****

Black Diamond say: “Built with a streamlined design and lightweight materials, the Black Diamond Raven Ultra Ice Axe is ideal for ski mountaineering missions, descending off alpine rock climbs or those just-in-case situations that involve short sections of glacier travel. The unique, integrated angled spike plunges easily in snowy couloirs, and the investment-cast, polished stainless steel head and pick provide secure bite in moderate ice.“

 

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/p1080879.jpg?w=388&h=688) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/p1080879.jpg)Black Diamond Raven Ultra Ice Axe – great for ski touring.  

I have used the Raven Ultra mainly for ski touring and ski mountaineering and it’s lightweight simplicity, makes it perfect for this. It has a stainless steel head and pick which actually work on proper ice, unlike some of the lightweight aluminium axes I have used. The shaft of the axe is aluminium, has no rubberised grip or handle and can feel a bit slippery when you actually need to pull on it on steeper ground but you could add some self amalgamating plumbers tape for extra stickiness if you found this to be an issue. On terrain that was AD+ or harder, I’d usually carry a proper ice tool anyway.

The Raven Ultra has a stainless steel spike integrated into the bottom of the aluminium shaft and whilst this is definitely more effective than some other lightweight models I’ve seen without this feature, offering greater durability and security when plunging it into snow and ice, it is definitely not as effective as a proper spike. However the Raven Ultra is all about compromise. It is a fantastic lightweight axe with a stainless steel pick that actually works in ice, and an adze that is very effective in chopping steps. The holes in the middle of the head and adze give lots of options for creating snow belays too.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/photo-1-e1412874458671.jpg?w=388&h=688) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/photo-1.jpg)Black Diamond Raven Ultra Ice Axe – works well on classic alpine terrain such as here on the Monch, Switzerland. As I said earlier the lightweight simplicity of the Raven Ultra make it perfect for skiing where weight is usually an issue. However I’ve also used mine on plenty of classic alpine routes up to AD and found it to work really well. I mentioned earlier that the shaft can feel slippy to hold, but holding the head feels pretty comfortable and secure and whilst it’s not the most comfortable I’ve used, it’s also not far off.

Due to it’s light weight and compact size (I tested the 50 cm version but 55cm and 60cm are also available) I have found the Raven Ultra invaluable when approaching alpine rock climbs such as on the South Face of the Aiguille Du Midi or when crossing short sections of glacier. It fits inside my 25 litre pack and doesn’t feel bulky or heavy to carry.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/p1080872.jpg?w=388&h=517) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/p1080872.jpg)Black Diamond Raven Ultra Ice Axe Whilst the Raven Ultra has some failings you have to remember the context of the review and the purpose that the ice axe is designed for. It is a lightweight, minimalist axe designed for easy climbs, ski mountaineering and short sections of approach and descent where using an axe may not form the main part of the day. But when you do need it the Raven Ultra works, and works well!

 

 

 

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Title: Evolv Valor
Post by: comPiler on October 11, 2014, 01:00:20 pm
Evolv Valor (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/10/11/evolv-valor/)
11 October 2014, 8:07 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/evolv-logo1.gif?w=300&h=264) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/evolv-logo1.gif)

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/evolve-valor.jpg?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/evolve-valor.jpg)Evolve Valor Is the Evolv Valor the ultimate all-round entry level rock shoe? (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/evolve_valor-033.jpg?w=388&h=517) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/evolve_valor-033.jpg)An especially comfy heel/Achilles area. When the opportunity came to review the Evolv Valor (http://www.evolvsports.com/) I was looking for a comfy multi-pitch big mountain day shoe. With age I find I’m less willing to suffer craming my toes into overly tight shoes. No more siting at the bottom of Buoux with plastic bags over my feet tying to pull on ridiculously small slippers! Thankfully boot technology and ergonomics has moved on in the last 25 years and boots fit better, you no longer need the pain to get the performance.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/evolve_valor-034.jpg?w=388&h=291) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/evolve_valor-034.jpg)Comfy boots let you savour the route. The Evolv Valor is a classic double Velcro strap design billed as an entry level to intermediate rock shoe. It shares a common design heritage with the Evolv Defy but differs in that it has a beefier/stiffer sole. Unlike high-performance shoes the Valor has a flat rather than down-turned sole profile and a less aggressive heel band. Both these design elements decrease ‘power’ at the toes but conversely make the shoe very comfortable to wear. If you’re someone who suffers Achilles problems that are aggravated by the aggressive heel bands on some rock shoes the Valor would make a great choice. The build quality of the Valor is excellent a durable synthetic upper resists stretching out and good quality stitch work means there have been no ‘blow outs’ or any appreciable wear to the uppers during the review period. The sole and rands are Evolv’s Trax XT rubber which has also worn well and performed effectively. The rands are Evolv’s VTR design (variable thickness rand) that puts more rubber in high wear areas and reduces thickness elsewhere to enhance comfort. They are certainly comfortable but I can’t comment on rand wear really apart from to say there is nothing yet after three months! I find it quite hard to judge rubber unless comparing similar types of shoe as other characteristics such as sensitivity and stiffness tend to colour perceptions but the Trax rubber certainly held its own.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/evolve_valor-031.jpg?w=388&h=517) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/evolve_valor-031.jpg)Lots of comfort and support even when wearing a sac. Over the past few months I’ve used the Valors on a variety of rock including grit bouldering, limestone sport routes as well as multi pitch mountain routes in the UK and France and training indoors. The Valors have performed well in all of these roles but for me where they really shine is on the multi pitch stuff. For bouldering and sport climbing they are fine but I found them a little insensitive for my tastes, this is probably due to the thicker sole and the ‘comfort’ fit that I opted for. Likewise indoors the reduced sensitivity had an impact on harder problems but the comfort when doing circuits was joy! Once I got them out on bigger routes the comfort and support came into their own. No desperately sprinting up pitches to rip your boots off at the belay to relieve screaming toes! Even with the extra weight of a sac my feet remained comfortable and I could savour every pitch without the distraction of painful feet.

Overall the Valors have proved a great all round shoe, I sized them for comfort and using on big routes but even so they still performed well in a variety of roles. They make a great entry level boot that will still serve more advanced climbers especially on less technically intense mountain routes.

Stockists (http://beyondhope.co.uk/stockists/evolv-stockists/)

RRP £70

Performance ? ? ?

Durability ? ? ? ? ?

Value ? ? ? ?

 

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Title: Haglöfs L.I.M. Powerdy Hood – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on October 11, 2014, 07:00:19 pm
Haglöfs L.I.M. Powerdy Hood – Climbing Gear Review (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/10/11/haglofs-l-i-m-powerdy-hood-climbing-gear-review/)
11 October 2014, 2:51 pm

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/unnamed.jpg?w=388&h=388) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/unnamed.jpg)(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/6025132c2_ss14_l-i-mpowerdryhood.png?w=388&h=483) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/6025132c2_ss14_l-i-mpowerdryhood.png) CGR take a look at the L.I.M. Powerdry Hood from Swedish brand, Haglöfs…. Performance *****

Value ****

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/img_0309.jpg?w=388&h=580) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/img_0309.jpg)Haglöfs LIM Power Dry Hood – great for multipitc rock climbing. Gelbe/Mauer, Dolomites.  

The L.I.M. range from Haglöfs stands for ‘Less Is More’, a lightweight, minimalist philosophy where a garment is produced with only the features it needs to do it’s job. These garments are lightweight, high quality and perform well across a range of activities.

Haglöfs market the L.I.M. Powerdry Hood as a superlight midlayer and as such it serves this purpose perfectly. However, for me this is only half the tale and it is definitely one of those products that I have found to be way more versatile than a few lines of text on a website would suggest! I’ve found the L.I.M. Powerdry Hood to cover a multitude of uses from best pub buddy to cosy heavyweight baselayer on frigid north faces. I’ve also worn it alone whilst running on cold still days, rock climbing, hiking, as a midlayer on technical mixed routes and I’m sure it will be forming the basis (or baselayer) of my mountain wardrobe for this winter too.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/10610844_10152643236465552_4959736538384831355_n.jpg?w=388&h=517) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/10610844_10152643236465552_4959736538384831355_n.jpg)Haglöfs LIM Power Dry Hood – a great, versatile base/midlayer. The full zip aids venting. Ok, so what is there to like? Well first of all the fabric, which is a Polartec® PowerDry® High efficiency, is amazing! The grid pattern feels supremely comfortable against the skin and slides effortlessly over lightweight baselayers as well. It breathes effectively whether worn next to the skin or as a baselayer, the grid pattern providing an increased surface area so that moisture disperses and then dries more readily. I’ve also found the fabric to be durable and there is no sign of bobbling or pilling on the smooth outer face.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/1610783_10152643245715552_6348637961884676572_n.jpg?w=388&h=386) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/1610783_10152643245715552_6348637961884676572_n.jpg)Haglöfs LIM Power Dry Hood – excellent balaclava style hood, brilliant under a helmet. The L.I.M. Powerdry Hood fits closely to the skin but the excellent cut (lack of shoulder seams, articulated sleeves) and stretchy fabric means that freedom of movement is not compromised whether you’re scrambling or pulling hard on ice tools. The hood is brilliant, fitting like a balaclava, you don’t notice it under a climbing helmet and it provides that extra boost of warmth when you need it. I seldom wear a hat or separate balaclava in the mountains these days as most of my favourite base/mid layers feature brilliant under helmet hoods. The slightly longer length means the top is comfortable under a harness and this coupled with the great cut I mentioned earlier, ensures it doesn’t ride up either.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/p1090071.jpg?w=388&h=628) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/p1090071.jpg)Haglöfs LIM Power Dry Hood – works well under a climbing harness and doesn’t restrict movement. Unkown 7b at Tornoux. The jacket has a full length zip for easy venting, with a laminated inner placket which ensures comfort against the skin. The zipper features a minimalist glove friendly tab, and is easy to use in the field (sorry I mean mountains!). Another feature I love are the super comfy thumb loops, something I feel are an absolute must on a top like this. It gives a real boost to the hands in cool weather and ensures there are no cold spots in the gap you can sometimes get between jacket cuffs and gloves. A single low profile chest pocket completes the package.

Is there anything I don’t like about the L.I.M. Powerdry Hood from Haglöfs? Erm, simply no!

So, in short, the Haglöfs L.I.M. Powerdry Hood is an awesome, versatile hooded top. It’s suitable for many different outdoor activities, either as a baselayer or light midlayer. The fabric feels luxurious against the skin and it breathes well too. A ‘just what you need’ feature set. Faultless!

 

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Title: Evolv Valor Rockshoe – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on October 12, 2014, 01:00:25 am
Evolv Valor Rockshoe – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/10/11/evolv-valor/)
11 October 2014, 8:07 am

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/evolv-logo1.gif?w=300&h=264) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/evolv-logo1.gif)

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/evolve-valor.jpg?w=388) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/evolve-valor.jpg)Evolve Valor Is the Evolv Valor the ultimate all-round entry level rock shoe? Performance ? ? ?

Durability ? ? ? ? ?

Value ? ? ? ?

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/evolve_valor-033.jpg?w=388&h=517) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/evolve_valor-033.jpg)An especially comfy heel/Achilles area. When the opportunity came to review the Evolv Valor (http://www.evolvsports.com/) I was looking for a comfy multi-pitch big mountain day shoe. With age I find I’m less willing to suffer craming my toes into overly tight shoes. No more siting at the bottom of Buoux with plastic bags over my feet tying to pull on ridiculously small slippers! Thankfully boot technology and ergonomics has moved on in the last 25 years and boots fit better, you no longer need the pain to get the performance.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/evolve_valor-034.jpg?w=388&h=291) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/evolve_valor-034.jpg)Comfy boots let you savour the route. The Evolv Valor is a classic double Velcro strap design billed as an entry level to intermediate rock shoe. It shares a common design heritage with the Evolv Defy but differs in that it has a beefier/stiffer sole. Unlike high-performance shoes the Valor has a flat rather than down-turned sole profile and a less aggressive heel band. Both these design elements decrease ‘power’ at the toes but conversely make the shoe very comfortable to wear. If you’re someone who suffers Achilles problems that are aggravated by the aggressive heel bands on some rock shoes the Valor would make a great choice. The build quality of the Valor is excellent a durable synthetic upper resists stretching out and good quality stitch work means there have been no ‘blow outs’ or any appreciable wear to the uppers during the review period. The sole and rands are Evolv’s Trax XT rubber which has also worn well and performed effectively. The rands are Evolv’s VTR design (variable thickness rand) that puts more rubber in high wear areas and reduces thickness elsewhere to enhance comfort. They are certainly comfortable but I can’t comment on rand wear really apart from to say there is nothing yet after three months! I find it quite hard to judge rubber unless comparing similar types of shoe as other characteristics such as sensitivity and stiffness tend to colour perceptions but the Trax rubber certainly held its own.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/evolve_valor-031.jpg?w=388&h=517) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/evolve_valor-031.jpg)Lots of comfort and support even when wearing a sac. Over the past few months I’ve used the Valors on a variety of rock including grit bouldering, limestone sport routes as well as multi pitch mountain routes in the UK and France and training indoors. The Valors have performed well in all of these roles but for me where they really shine is on the multi pitch stuff. For bouldering and sport climbing they are fine but I found them a little insensitive for my tastes, this is probably due to the thicker sole and the ‘comfort’ fit that I opted for. Likewise indoors the reduced sensitivity had an impact on harder problems but the comfort when doing circuits was joy! Once I got them out on bigger routes the comfort and support came into their own. No desperately sprinting up pitches to rip your boots off at the belay to relieve screaming toes! Even with the extra weight of a sac my feet remained comfortable and I could savour every pitch without the distraction of painful feet.

Overall the Valors have proved a great all round shoe, I sized them for comfort and using on big routes but even so they still performed well in a variety of roles. They make a great entry level boot that will still serve more advanced climbers especially on less technically intense mountain routes.

Stockists (http://beyondhope.co.uk/stockists/evolv-stockists/)

RRP £70

 

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Title: Haglöfs Rugged II Mountain Pants
Post by: comPiler on October 15, 2014, 07:00:13 pm
Haglöfs Rugged II Mountain Pants (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/10/15/haglofs-rugged-ii-mountain-pants/)
15 October 2014, 5:12 pm

(http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/unnamed.jpg?w=300&h=300) (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/unnamed.jpg)

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/haglofs-ruggedii-mountain-pant.png?w=388&h=483) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/haglofs-ruggedii-mountain-pant.png)

Dave takes the updated, ultimate mountain pants from Haglöfs for a test. Performance *****

Style****

Value*****

Extremely durable, fully featured stretchy hybrid trekking pant
Back in 2011 we tested the Haglöfs Rugged Mountain Pants (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2011/08/08/haglofs-rugged-mountain-pants-%E2%80%93-mountain-gear-review/). The we concluded that the pants would be a great 3 season mountain pants for a variety of mountain activities.

This season I have been testing the updated Haglöfs Rugged II Mountain Pants  (http://www.haglofs.com/en-US/products/clothing/activities/trekking/men/rugged_ii_mountain_pant_en-us.aspx)so how have they been improved?

The style is very similar to the original Rugged Mountain Pants and the sizing is the same. A size medium was a 32” waist and expanded to a 33”. They are still incredibly burly and well made with triple stitching and bar tacking . I have worked for two years in the original Rugged Mountain pants and they are still going strong showing very little signs of serious wear.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/haglofs-rugged-ii-mountain.jpg?w=388&h=291) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/haglofs-rugged-ii-mountain.jpg)Haglofs Rugged 2 pants are great for anything the mountain can throw at them. One good improvement is the addition of a Velcro fastener on the waistband, the waistband is elasticated at the back but is held in place with two vecro fastening. This helped keep the trousers up, especially when they were wet. I did state in the original review that the pants would have benefitted from some braces loops, they are still missing from the Rugged II Mountain Pants. At 770g a pair I had to cinch them up tight to stop the legs becoming too long.

The colour scheme has also changed from an orange inner trim to fluorescent green. This worked OK as most of it is contained inside the pants. The pockets are still great and the voluminous thigh pockets have proved very useful when working and when winter climbing. The inner phone pocket now holds an iphone or other medium sized smartphone, but probably not the bigger sizes – this is an area that Haglöfs can’t win on as phones change so rapidly. The size is good though for most sensibly sized phones.

The materials are still the excellent Climatic with hardwearing knees and seat. The material is now much softer, making the Haglöfs Rugged II Mountain Pants  (http://www.haglofs.com/en-US/products/clothing/activities/trekking/men/rugged_ii_mountain_pant_en-us.aspx)very nice to wear. In the original review I stated that the pants would be good for winter mountaineering and so they have proved to be – for active mountaineering they have been excellent. For technical climbing I have worn a merino wool ¾ length baselayer and they have been great.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/haglofs-rugged-ii-climbing.jpg?w=388&h=291) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/haglofs-rugged-ii-climbing.jpg)Good freedom for technical mountaineering. The adjustable hems and lace hook have also proven useful as I can quickly cinch them up when walking through boggy ground.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/rugged-mountain-pants.jpg?w=388&h=291) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/rugged-mountain-pants.jpg)The Rugged II Mountain Pants were great for alpine climbing. So, the Haglöfs Rugged II Mountain Pants  (http://www.haglofs.com/en-US/products/clothing/activities/trekking/men/rugged_ii_mountain_pant_en-us.aspx)are a good update on the original pants. So burly it’s unreal and they really have lasted years and will do so for years to come. Come October through to March they are my pants of choice for all UK activities. I wore them recently for an Alpine trip and they performed there too. Professionally I wouldn’t be without them for any big boot type of day. A great update and well worth the money and with it having the Bluesign label you can be assured it’s been manufactured with respect for the environment.

Sizes come in XS to XXXL and colours are Black and Juniper (Green)

SRP £150.00

Stockists (http://www.haglofs.com/en-US/retailers/)

 

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Title: Salewa Wildfire Approach Shoe
Post by: comPiler on October 21, 2014, 01:00:20 pm
Salewa Wildfire Approach Shoe (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/10/21/salewa-wildfire-approach-shoe/)
21 October 2014, 7:24 am

  (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/salewa-logo-resized.png?w=300&h=215) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2013/05/salewa-logo-resized.png) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/salewa-wildfire-gtx-e1413188533514.jpg?w=388&h=234) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/salewa-wildfire-gtx-e1413188533514.jpg) Dave puts the Salewa Wildfire approach shoes to the test to see if they are his final choice. Performance *****

Stlye ****

Value****

Lightness, anatomical last, and an aggressive outsole design make it the final choice for approach
Last year we reviewed the Salewa Firetail  (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2013/06/09/salewa-firetail-gtx-climbing-gear-review/)approach shoes, I concluded that the shoes were a great all round approach shoe suitable for a range of mountain activities.

The Salewa Wildfire  (http://www.salewa.com/product/tech+approach/wildfire+man)has also been in the collection for several years and the new version have been tweaked and updated for 2014.

I tested the technical approach version of the shoe with the climbing sole, they also come with a more hiking friendly EVO sole that is more like a hiking/trainer sole. I tested my usual size UK 8 or EUR 42 for fit and the fit was excellent. Straight out of the box they were a great fit, I could easily tweak them further by removing the additional insole which was Velcro fitted to the main insole. This allowed for a more comfortable toebox fit. The lacing also allowed a good fit by the laces extending down to the toe, just like a climbing shoe. This meant that I have a relaxed fit for the hike in and then conch them tight for any scrambling to the base of the route. The toe profile is a little wider than the Firetail so if they have been too tight you should get on well with the Wildfire.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/salewa-wildfire-profile.png?w=388&h=217) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/salewa-wildfire-profile.png)The Salewa Wildfire were really nice for walking in. Style wise, they look and feel like a trainer, they have a protective toe rand and a nice patternated rand around the rest of the shoe. At first I thought this just wasn’t going to cut the mustard as I’d seen this type of fancy rand just peel away before. This rand however has lasted a tough summer of me constantly wearing them for all my expedition and climbing work both professional and for recreation. I really like it, it’s a nice way of adding more protection and adds to the style. I was sent the Emerald Green shoes, which I must say were a little bright for a Brit. I have, however, had lots of compliments as too the colour and they do stand out from the crowd. I don’t wear them recreationally though! They come in Blue and Green and a more muted Black for those of a shy nature.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/salewa-wildfire-carry.png?w=167&h=300) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/salewa-wildfire-carry.png)I would have liked a more burly heel tab for carrying. The heel was well cushioned with an PU heel unit and the heel cup was nice and rigid. I have actually been able to use these for running in (they are a little too heavy for longer runs) and they’ve been fine. The Achilles area was well padded and again very comfortable in use. I could walk all day in the Salewa Wildfire  (http://www.salewa.com/product/tech+approach/wildfire+man)and have spent all summer working in them for long days in the mountains and crags. The 3F webbing looks a little gimmicky and I’m not sure of the absolute benefit, it may offer a little more support around the heel and distal area but I couldn’t tell when they are on. The usual criss cross pattern added a little structure to the Salewa Wildfire and has increased the durability significantly. I have grown to like the patterning and hope Salewa don’t change it as it’s distinctive and makes the shoe look like a technical shoe and not just recreational. The only bugbear has been the pull tab on the heel – I would have liked to see this a little bigger, bar tacked to the heel and offset so the shoes sat more neatly on my harness when carried.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/wildfire-lacing.jpg?w=300&h=225) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/wildfire-lacing.jpg)They had a good toe profile and plenty of rand. The materials are burly and hardwearing, that doesn’t mean they’re heavy though. The stated weight is 401g per shoe and the trusty CGR scales weighed my UK 8 shoe in at 400g, so nice and light. The one piece mesh hasn’t shown any sign of wear and I’ve testing them all summer and early autumn. The crucial toe area is further reinforced with synthetic leather and this extends into the gusseted tongue. All the inner is treated with NXT silverised odour control and this seems to have worked as they smell very fresh (although I do not suffer from smelly feet) and I’ve worn them in some quite wet weather.

 

The sole had an EVA midsole which was stiff enough for edging, in fact the Salewa Wildfire  (http://www.salewa.com/product/tech+approach/wildfire+man)were great for climbing in and I’ve really enjoyed using them for my instructional work. They sole is still Vibram and was very sticky. It has a dotty pattern on the edges with little wear and a dedicated climbing zone in the toe area and around the heel. They have performed very well for both technical approaches, tricky descents and rough boulder fields. I can’t fault the sole unit and gave the shoe five stars for this area.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/salewa-wildfire-approach.jpg?w=300&h=225) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/10/21/salewa-wildfire-approach-shoe/salewa-wildfire-approach/#main)They were great for technical approaches. Overall I’ve used the Salewa Wildfire  (http://www.salewa.com/product/tech+approach/wildfire+man)for a wide variety of mountain activities and they have been a constant companion throughout the season. They have proven to be comfortable, technical and robust and I reckon I have another season left in them. They are a great update on the original and apart from the tab they have been pretty faultless.

The shoes come in sizes UK 6 to 12 in half sizes from 6 to 11.

They also come in a more hiking friendly EVO style and both also come in Gore Tex (GTX) versions for extra protection from the elements.

SRP: £115.00, GTX £135.00

Stockists (http://www.salewa.com/dealer-search)

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Title: Haglöfs Skarn Q Hood – Climbing Gear Review
Post by: comPiler on October 23, 2014, 07:00:09 pm
Haglöfs  Skarn Q Hood – Climbing Gear Review (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/10/23/haglofs-skarn-q-hood-climbing-gear-review/)
23 October 2014, 4:02 pm

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/unnamed.jpg?w=388&h=388) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/05/unnamed.jpg)(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/6022012gv_fw13ss14_skarnhood.png?w=388&h=483) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/06/6022012gv_fw13ss14_skarnhood.png) Kasia gives us the rundown on the Skarn Q Hood (Q being the name Haglöfs give to their female specific products)  softshell jacket from Haglöfs. How was it? Performance ****

Quality *****

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/img_5158.jpg?w=388&h=517) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/img_5158.jpg)Haglöfs Skarn Q Hood – a great jacket for alpine climbing. Summit of Pic De La Grave, Ecrins, France.  

According to Haglöfs the Skarn Q Hood is a ‘versatile and durable, full stretch soft shell jacket with excellent comfort’. I have to admit after trying the jacket, walking, cragging and climbing in the alps it pretty much does what it says on the ‘tin’.

I’ve been testing the women’s size medium in the ‘Firecracker’ colour. From a technical point of view this jacket is certainly a winner when it comes to comfort. The decent cut (articulated sleeves and dropped rear hem) and 4-way stretch certainly doing its thing. The arms and body being made from the same material meant I definitely didn’t feel restricted in my movement at any point. The stretch factor also meant that when using the thumb loops I didn’t have to worry too much about the jacket riding up. For me the thumb loops are a nice little touch and help to make things cosier when the wind picks up and you want to prevent those draughty gaps which can occur around the sleeves when wearing a pair of gloves.

Another cosy feature is the super soft chin guard which I think is a general must on jackets nowadays and not to be taken for granted. A small comfort I enjoy if the weather picks up when on belay half way up a multi-pitch. You’ll also find an integrated single hand hem draw cord to help cinch things in. Whilst easy to pull the hem tight I sometimes needed two hands to help slacken it off again.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/p1090231.jpg?w=388&h=517) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/p1090231.jpg)Haglöfs Skarn Q Hood – a great cut for climbing and durable too. Apparently the shoulders and sleeves are reinforced – I can’t tell how looking at the jacket, but from having worn the jacket climbing and whilst wearing a rucksack, it still looks in great condition. The only place I’m starting to see some slight signs of wear and tear is on the cuffs which have certainly had some abuse when scrambling with the thumb loops on – so a slight bobbling here is only to be expected.

The hood boasts a ‘three-way adjustable, climbing helmet compatible hood with reinforced peak’. Whilst the hood will go over my helmet it didn’t manage to cover the whole thing. So if like me you prefer a hood where the peak protects your eyes even with a helmet on you’ll have to decide if the plus points of this garment outweigh – for me the only downside to this jacket. Otherwise without a helmet, the hood adjusts fine and can sit snug around the face.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/img_5163.jpg?w=388&h=517) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/img_5163.jpg)Haglöfs Skarn Q Hood – a helmet compatible hood. The look of the jacket is kept sleek and simple with a hidden front zip. The sleeve pocket on the left arm is a laminated pocket to reduce unnecessary seams and works well for lift passes and other small easy to grab essentials. There are also two mid mounted pockets (accessible whilst wearing a harness) which have a mesh liner to help with ventilation when moving more aerobically. All the zips come with a pull cord which makes them easier to use when wearing gloves.

The jacket is a lightweight outer shell providing a good mix of wind resistance and breathability – down to the Haglöfs non membrane FlexAble™ fabric. It’s not waterproof and doesn’t claim to be, but as the fabric is treated with a PFOS/PFOA free DWR it will shed some light drops of rain – just not a downpour. If it does get wet you’ve got a handy rear hanging loop to hang it from in the drying room!

Overall I loved the jacket. Whilst the hood doesn’t give full coverage whilst wearing a helmet I’ll certainly be taking this on future alpine trips. For me the real plus side is the comfort and wear ability provided, which means I don’t feel restricted when making that awkward climbing move. Besides, it’s also served me well as a light summer jacket around town!

The Skarn Hood is also available for men and there is a Skarn Winter Hood (http://www.haglofs.com/en-US/products/clothing/layers/soft-shell/men/skarn_winter_hood_en-us.aspx) and Skarn Q Winter Hood (http://www.haglofs.com/en-US/products/clothing/layers/soft-shell/women/skarn_q_winter_hood_en-us.aspx) available for the coming winter season too.


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Source: Climbing Gear Reviews (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: Kendal Mountain Festival 2014, November 20-23 – Climbing Gear News
Post by: comPiler on October 31, 2014, 12:00:25 am
Kendal Mountain Festival 2014, November 20-23 – Climbing Gear News (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/10/30/kendal-mountain-festival-2014-november-20-23-climbing-gear-news/)
30 October 2014, 8:54 pm

 (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/kmf-logo-blk-brdr.jpg?w=388&h=574) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/kmf-logo-blk-brdr.jpg) The annual Kendal Mountain Festival will soon be upon us, taking place from the 20th to 23rd November and the 2014 line up promises to be as good as ever, with a super mix of speakers, films and socialising for you to enjoy!  (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/ueli-steck.jpg?w=388&h=554) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/ueli-steck.jpg)High calibre alpinist, Ueli Steck is confirmed as one of the speakers this year.  

‘Kendal’ is the biggest event of its type in the world and it’s the main social event for outdoor enthusiasts in the UK. As ever there’ll be hundreds of film screenings including high-profile premieres plus loads of speakers and special guests making this a must-do long weekend in the Lake District.

 

This year an exciting mix of speakers will appeal to travel and adventure fans, armchair alpinists and activist climbers alike. Characters such as Australian adventurer, author and filmmaker Tim Cope who spent the best part of a decade travelling Central Asia by bicycle, boat, skis, horse and camel, turning these experiences into award-winning films and books. And Steve Fisher – three times voted the world’s best all-round kayaker by top pros, the South African paddler and filmmaker has made over 100 ‘first descents’ across the world, including the man-eating Inga Rapids on the Congo.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/christophe-profit-3.jpg?w=388&h=478) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/christophe-profit-3.jpg)Uber-alpinist Christophe Profit makes an appearance at this year’s festival. Climbers will queue to hear uber-alpinist Christophe Profit, the Frenchman who ripped up the mountaineering rule book in the 1980s with a string of ultra-fast ascents across the Alps, almost always without a rope. Then there’s the ‘Swiss machine’ Ueli Steck, past holder of the Eiger North Face speed record – 2hrs 47mins, solo. Ueli has had a busy couple of years to say the least, with stories to tell including his ultra-fast ascent of Annapurna’s South Face and being caught up in the high-altitude Sherpa fracas on Everest.

 

Recounting decades of pioneering through their new books will be three very different personalities: Martin Boysen, Martin Moran and Steve McClure. All three climbing legends will be lecturing and talking about their biographies, sharing their experiences.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/image-3-kmf-party.jpg?w=388&h=192) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/image-3-kmf-party.jpg)The RAB party is ure to provide plenty of opportunities to socialise, sample the local ale and maybe even get on the dance floor! Together with the art exhibitions, literature, the RAB Party plus the Boardman Tasker literary prize, it promises to be another unmissable year. The organisers say that there are more surprises to come, so watch this space!

 

Dates are 20-23 November with tickets already on sale.

You can buy tickets and view the full programme of speakers and events at the KMF 2014 website. (http://www.mountainfest.co.uk/programme)

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Title: Stop Press! Kendal Mountain Festival Secures Jeff Lowe’s Metanoia
Post by: comPiler on November 08, 2014, 12:00:41 am
Stop Press! Kendal Mountain Festival Secures Jeff Lowe’s Metanoia (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/11/07/stop-press-kendal-mountain-festival-secures-jeff-lowes-metanoia/)
7 November 2014, 8:52 pm

News has just come in from Kendal Mountain Festival HQ, that the event has secured the second-ever public screening of ‘Jeff Lowe’s Metanoia’. (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/jeff-lowe-ama-dablam-2nd-ascent-1979-photo-by-tom-frost.jpg?w=388&h=579) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/jeff-lowe-ama-dablam-2nd-ascent-1979-photo-by-tom-frost.jpg)Jeff Lowe on the 2nd Ascent of Ama Dablam in 1979 Only completed in the last two weeks and premiered at the Banff Mountain Festival on 2 November, this is a major film that has been in production for several years.  Not only will the film be screened, but Jeff Lowe himself will travel across from the USA to be in Kendal, despite the terminal illness he is suffering from.

 

“We’ve been in discussion for a little while with Jeff and Connie Self, his partner and the film’s producer”, says Festival director Clive Allen. “I have to say it’s a huge privilege that they have allowed us to screen the film so soon; Jeff is determined to come across and share it with us.  It wouldn’t have happened though with out the support of Lowe Alpine who have stepped in to ensure we have the resource to bring Jeff and Connie across.”

 

‘Jeff Lowe’s Metanoia’ explores the life and climbs of the legendary US alpinist. The most talented technical climber of his generation, for 40 years Jeff made his mark across the world; from the big walls of Yosemite and Utah, to the Alps and the great Himalayan peaks. And of course in 1967, along with his brothers Greg and Mike, Jeff founded Lowe Alpine Systems in Colorado.

 

Jeff’s ‘piece de resistance’ lies on North Face of the Eiger. Climbed in 1991, and still unrepeated, Metanoia (graded VII, 5.10, M6, A4) is the hub of this biographical documentary.  Narrated by Jon Krakauer, the film tells the compelling story behind that climb and what lay beneath Jeff’s high adventure lifestyle. For the past decade Jeff has suffered from a relentlessly progressive neurological deterioration, and is now confined to a wheelchair. Since being diagnosed with this terminal disease, he has brought the strength that characterised his climbing career to the physical challenges he faces today, and also to a reassessment of his own mortality. A tribute to a remarkable man and climber, this is a film about one man’s journey from the top of the world to the end of the line. Kendal Mountain Festival and Lowe Alpine are proud to bring you the British premiere; to introduce and talk about the movie Jeff himself has taken the big decision to travel especially to Kendal for this occasion.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/metanoia-route-line-good.jpg?w=388&h=651) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/metanoia-route-line-good.jpg)The line of Jeff Lowe’s ‘Metanoia’, still unrepeated! Jeff Lowe and the film ‘Jeff Lowe’s Metanoia’ are being brought to Kendal Mountain Festival with the kind assistance of Lowe Alpine.

 

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/kmf-logo-blk-brdr.jpg?w=388&h=574) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/10/kmf-logo-blk-brdr.jpg)

Jeff Lowe answers a few questions about the screening of ‘Metanoia’ at Kendal Mountain Festival

 

1) Why did you participate in the making of this film?  

Jeff Lowe: I want to share the experiences and lessons of a life based in love rather than fear; embracing the reality of each moment and digging deep for beauty and wonder.  I know my time is short. Film can convey so much, so succinctly. As time went on during the making of the film, my experience of Metanoia on my Eiger climb, where I had “…a fundamental change of thinking, a transformative change of heart…”, continued to unfold and I found myself on the greatest adventure of all. In our culture, death and dying are seen as horrible. Connie and I see it all quite differently. On the Eiger I saw what might be on the other side of death and I am honestly curious about that and very interested in what is happening to me as I make my way towards that ultimate transition. I have always known that love powers the universe and that all that is creative and good in our world is born out of love. What I didn’t know is that it is the most powerful motivator in life and should be pursued with passion, sensitivity and skill: Love for people, mountains, art, music – whatever it is that you love, you must make it a priority. I was lucky that I did that with climbing… and now I do it with everything and everyone.

Connie Self (Jeff’s partner and the film’s producer): No one leaves our apartment without hearing those 3 little words from Jeff: I love you.

 

2)      How do you feel about it showing at KMF? 

We are thrilled to have our United Kingdom Premier at KMF. This is my tribe. I have premiered other films here, but this one is my legacy – the last hurrah, so to speak. This one is my heart on the screen. KMF brings the climbing community together like very few other places – I am especially grateful that I get to be here – still on the planet – to attend our first UK screening of the film with my all of my tribe that can get here.

 

3)      What do you hope the audience takes away from learning about how you’re living with your illness? 

Life is life and it is really always the same. The chaplain from Hospice once told me that we die the way we live. I am seeing that happening. As a climber, I did the best I could with what I had from where ever I was – on a big wall like the South Face of Snow Patch Spire in the Bugaboos, an alpine climb with a small team on Latok in the Karakoram, or just cragging in Eldorado Canyon – and designing clothing and equipment to have more freedom and fun in the hills – focused on the present moment, having fun, working hard and figuring it out as I go. With the help of loving people, I am still doing the same thing; adjusting my wheelchair to suit me better, finding ways to move and get around so that I can still participate fully in my life, finding new tools to help me speak, new exercises to keep me flexible – and simply enjoying each moment to the best of my ability. It comes pretty easily to me these days. I don’t spend time wishing things were different than they are. There is always plenty to be grateful for – plenty of beauty and wonder and love – so I focus on that. If people take a little from my experience and find a positive personal resonance, that will make this whole project worthwhile.

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Source: Climbing Gear Reviews (http://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com)

Title: CGR Buyers Guide to headtorches
Post by: comPiler on November 18, 2014, 12:00:59 am
CGR Buyers Guide to headtorches (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.wordpress.com/2014/11/17/cgr-buyers-guide-to-headtorches/)
17 November 2014, 7:07 pm

This season’s CGR Buyers Guide covers headtorches – we look at all the latest ones for 2014.(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/headtorch-feature-shot.jpg?w=388&h=291)  

Headtorches are something we probably take little notice of because we only use them infrequently. It’s rare that we plan to use one, we might use one for an approach to a winter or alpine route, we may use one to navigate off the mountain when the light has faded. Other than that our most often use of a headtorch is on camp or in a climbing hut.

There are, however, lots of occasions when I had wished I’d had one but hadn’t! My most memorable occasion was in Rjukan, when we had left our packs at the bottom of the route and off we went. We decided to ignore the track heading off rightwards and ploughed on to the top in true Brit fashion only to find we’d run out of daylight! No fear though we managed all the abs using our phones to light the way. Needless to say the event would have been far less exciting if we’d had taken a headtorch or two.

Headorches come into three categories for climbers: a dedicated torch that you know you will be using for climbing – these turn night into day. They are very powerful but can be bulky and need lots of battery power. A headtorch that can be deployed for climbing and will get you out of a tight spot but will also be useful for reading that book in the tent, nipping to the toilet or lighting your way back from the pub. They are packable, lightweight and provide sufficient light to climb with. Then there is the small, lightweight emergency type that you keep in your pack at all other times. These can give just sufficient light but there are some interesting ones that now can be used for ultralight alpine ascents as well as for lighting the way back to the car or as a backup.

So what should you be looking for in a headtorch for mountain activities:

There are also other considerations – waterproof, dustproof and easy to maintain. With the newer types of LED torch the days of changing the bulb are over.

We take a close look at all the latest models for 2014 from the major players in the market. We have collected a good range from the top end to a good budget one and tested them in a variety of situations to determine the pros and cons of each. We list them by size and give them a CGR star rating that rates them for their suitability for all mountain sports.

 

Black Diamond Ion (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/black-diamond-ion.jpg?w=300&h=161) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/black-diamond-ion.jpg)

Black Diamond says…

Extremely compact and powerful, the Black Diamond Ion headlamp packs 80 lumens of power into a tiny package for just-in-case lighting and ultralight missions. The touch-control housing lets you switch from full power to dimmed, strobe or red night vision lighting at the swipe of a finger.
Swish, swash swoosh! The new Black Diamond Ion  (http://blackdiamondequipment.com/en/headlamps-and-lanterns/ion-BD620615_cfg.html#q=Ion+&start=1)is a brilliant, throw in the bag and forget headtorch. I have definitely replaced my Petzl e-lite with this for all climbing occasions except winter and alpine climbing. The technology is brilliant, the Ion has no buttons and works with pressure swipes and presses. Although tricky to get used to, it took me half a hour of frustration before I got it to work. But once I got used to it I couldn’t leave it alone. Place your finger on the lens, swipe rightwards and the light comes on. Press your finger on the Black Diamond symbol and the light brightens and fades until you have the beam you want. Swipe right to left and the red beam activates, again you can adjust the brightness by pressing the Black Diamond logo on the front. It was, however, very easy to accidentally switch it on and it was confusing for my feeble brain to remember all the sequences needed to operate it.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/bd-ion.jpg?w=388&h=291) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/bd-ion.jpg)The Black Diamond Ion gave enough light to light up the path. What a great little headtorch however: the system works with gloves (but not bulky ones) and it’s a great all round headtorch, suitable for 3 season climbing and hiking. If you’re a super light alpine freak then it could be bright enough for that too. There was no focus and the beam dispersal was quite wide. It gave brightness to about 30m so easily enough to light the footpath on the way back to the car or to go running with. It runs on 2 AAA batteries is easy to change and feels very compact and robust. The Black Diamond Ion  (http://blackdiamondequipment.com/en/headlamps-and-lanterns/ion-BD620615_cfg.html#q=Ion+&start=1)is superlight too weighing in at a miniscule 47g with 2 lithium batteries and has an IPX4 rating so nice and showerproof. My favourite headtorch for keeping in my pack to deploy when it gets dark on the way back to the car.

CGR rating **** SRP: £24.99

Stockists (http://blackdiamondequipment.com/en/retailers-and-dealers)

LED Lenser Neo (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/neo-composite_blue-med.jpg?w=300&h=300) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/neo-composite_blue-med.jpg)

LED Lenser says: Introducing NEO – the ultra-compact, wider-view head lamp from LED Lenser

LED Lenser’s elegant new NEO Head Lamp is a hands-free light with everything an outdoor enthusiast could ask for. Sleek and aerodynamic it incorporates an extra wide-angle 16:9 reflector lens plus built-in Smart Light Technology with three different light settings covering everything from immediate bright light to night reading without glare. For safety there’s a rear red light so that others can see you. Comfortable to wear it weighs only 88 grams (with batteries) and rolls up into a compact bundle for easy portability. A choice of five bright neon colours should satisfy the most style-conscious wearer.
The LED Lenser Neo  (http://www.ledlenser-store.co.uk/neo-series-t657)is more of an active style headtorch rather than a dedicated climbing headtorch. It was nice and sleek and gave a great wide angle beam that easily lit up the footpath when night running or hiking. It was compact to stow in a pack and very easy in use. A button located at the front of the unit operated with three presses – full power, low power and flashing. Two presses activated a red flashing LED at the back of the headtorch on the battery unit.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/led-neo.jpg?w=388&h=291) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/led-neo.jpg)The LED Lenser Neo gave a great wide angled light. Good enough for running and hiking. The LED Lenser Neo  (http://www.ledlenser-store.co.uk/neo-series-t657)was a very stylish headtorch, the range comes in five bright colours, all very neon. We found the headtorch great for hut/camping use, running and summer hiking. It wasn’t functional enough to be a climbing headtorch as the beam just wasn’t powerful enough to light up distant features. It was more than enough to get you off the crag and back to the car though so a nice all round headtorch. It was light too weighing just 76g with three AAA Lithium batteries (it comes supplied with Alkaline AAA batteries) and its IPX4 rated which is splash/shower proof.

CGR Rating *** SRP £24.95

Stockists (http://www.ledlenser-store.co.uk/neo-series-t657)

Varta 1W Indestructible Headtorch (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/indestructible_headlight-pro-v2.jpg?w=143&h=300) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/indestructible_headlight-pro-v2.jpg)

Varta says:

Extremely robust (9m drop test), water resistant (IPX4) head light with shock-absorbing rubberized casing.
We scoured the shops and manufacturers for a budget headtorch that would be suitable for mountain activities and settled on the Varta 1W Indestructible headtorch for this feature. Our reasons were that it was easy to use with 2 power settings, full beam and low power. Lightweight (we took the supplied AAA batteries out and weighed it with Lithium batteries) weighing in at 90g, which is refreshing for a budget headtorch, cheaper usually means heavier but not in this case it was easily as light as the more expensive headtorches. The button was nice and big and very easy to use with gloves on and the tilt mechanism was very solid. The batteries were easy to change, you have to remember to tilt the head off the ratchet to access the back properly.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/varta-1.jpg?w=388&h=291) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/varta-1.jpg)The Varta Indestructable gave a great light – enough to pick out distant features. A great budget headtorch. The 1W LED gave plenty of light to light up features more than 75m away in good visibility and the batteries lasted well over a week of constant use. The Varta 1W headtorch was indeed pretty indestructible – we tested it by dropping off the top of Almscliffe, dropping a climbing pack onto it off a boulder and we dunked it in several puddles. It survived all those tests and we had some fun too.

The headtorch doesn’t win any prizes for style and it was the only torch on test to have a three part headband which made it difficult to adjust on the move. It did, however, stay on a climbing helmet quite well and the rubberized casing did set it apart from the pack and for £15.00 – 16.00 it is very well priced for those on a budget and more than enough you get you operating in darkness.

CGR Rating **** – Best Budget Choice Price £ £16.00 (ish).

Stockists: Tesco (http://www.tesco.com/direct/varta-indestructible-head-torch-1-watt-led-3aaa/217-9964.prd) and Amazon (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Varta-1W-LED-Indestructible-Headlight/dp/B005EWQEAY)

Petzl Tikka XP (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/petzl-tikkaxp-2014-corail_lo.jpg?w=300&h=131) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/petzl-tikkaxp-2014-corail_lo.jpg)Petzl says:

The Tikka XP is a true all-rounder, combining light weight and a compact design with significant power. Rated at 120 lumens, there are three beam options: flood for close-in lighting, combined with a focused beam for movement, and pure focused beam for distance. It also has a Boost mode, offering temporary access to 160-lumen maximum power, and red lighting and strobe mode. Constant Lighting technology means that power output remains constant, not decreasing gradually as the batteries are drained. There’s also a phosphorescent reflector in the lens that allows location in the dark when switched off.
I’ve been using a Petzl Tikka XP2 for several years. It’s been my headtorch of choice for mountain activities and I’ve climbed some great routes with it. The updated Petzl Tikka XP  (http://www.petzl.com/en/Sport/ACTIVE-headlamps/TIKKA-XP?l=INT#.VFxXIWdyYdU)is a great improvement and definitely takes it up a notch. Gone is the single LED with the flip down diffuser, which has been replaced by two LEDs, a diffused lens for general lighting and both for high power.

The headtorch fitted securely onto a climbing helmet and the headband was easy to adjust. I found the tilt ratchet a little flimsy and would like to see future models beef this area up.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/tikka.jpg?w=300&h=225) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/tikka.jpg)The Petzl Tikka XP was comfortable to wear and gave good light settings The Petzl Tikka XP is button operated with a large rubber button situated on the top of the casing and gives the headtorch 5 settings: one long press for general tent/hut reading, press two for higher power (going down the pub), press three and the high power LED comes on as well, press 4 for full power (good for 50 to 60m) and this easily lights up the way ahead whether it’s hiking or climbing. Press five is for flashing and if you keep the button pressed it activities the red LED for helping to keep you night vision. There are just two setting on red, main beam and flashing.

It’s very compact, light and runs on three AAA and weighs in at 76g with three AAA Lithium batteries. The Petzl Tikka XP (http://www.petzl.com/en/Sport/ACTIVE-headlamps/TIKKA-XP?l=INT#.VFxXIWdyYdU) is excellent for a 3 season headtorch and is suitable for hiking, rock climbing and superlight alpine adventures as well as night running. A very versatile headtorch and well worth the money, my favourite headtorch for trekking trips.

CGR rating **** SRP: £50.00

Stockists (http://www.lyon.co.uk/outdoor/all-stockists/petzl-lighting-stockists)

LED Lenser SEO 7R (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/6007_r_seo_7r_liegend_v1.jpg?w=300&h=200) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/6007_r_seo_7r_liegend_v1.jpg)

LED Lenser says: Stand out from the crowd

The pioneering SEO headlamp range from LED Lenser effortlessly combines serious lighting performance with award-winning design and world-class light optics. High on comfort, low on weight, SEO will especially appeal to active users seeking immediate control of their lighting environment.  That’s why each lamp in the series has an integrated white LED for instant bright illumination plus a red safety light to protect night vision.
If you can get past the very scary faces on the packaging the German company LED Lenser makes some great headtorches. The LED Lenser SEO 7R  (http://www.ledlenser-store.co.uk/head-torches-c71/led-lenser-seo-7r-rechargeable-led-head-torch-p949)is a top of the range mountain headtorch with reactive lighting sensors and a rechargeable battery unit. The SEO 7R was definitely the most versatile headtorch on test. It was extremely powerful on full power delivering 220 Lumens,  it has a rotating lens that focusses the beam from very wide to picking out features 80-100m away. There was no diffused beam, just one LED with 4 settings from full power to tent reading on three presses with flashing for the fourth. A long press deployed a red LED with two settings, fully on and flashing.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/seo-7r.jpg?w=300&h=225) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/seo-7r.jpg)The LED Lenser SEO 7R – a great all round headtorch. The head unit was very compact and the tilt was very good and easy to operate. My only issue with the headtorch was the small size of the rubber button and the fact it was situated at the back of the head unit, but this didn’t really impede it’s use and it worked perfectly every time with or without gloves on. Still if it was larger and further forward it would have been easier to use when on a climbing helmet.

At the back of the SEO 7R was the battery unit. This opened easily to reveal a compact rechargeable battery. The 3.7v 880mAh battery charged via a micro usb slot so no need to take an extra charger (unless you’re an iPhone user), but no worries if it runs out (I’ve been using it recreationally for well over a month and it hasn’t ran out of charge yet) just pop in 3 AAA batteries and let there be light! This was a great, no faff, feature so you could fully charge the battery at the beginning of the day and use it on full power safe in the knowledge that the battery was easy to change in the field.

The headband was easy to adjust but the white soon discoloured, it fitted neatly onto a climbing helmet and didn’t move too much once it was in place. The tilt adjust was also very firm and felt solid when clicked. The LED Lenser SEO 7R (http://www.ledlenser-store.co.uk/head-torches-c71/led-lenser-seo-7r-rechargeable-led-head-torch-p949) was nice and light too weighing at 93g with the supplied rechargeable unit and 94g with three AAA Lithium batteries.

The SEO 7R has Optisense technology which adjusts to the light level, this technology is becoming more popular and we should start to see more of it in 2015. The technology is good and means the headtorch adjusts to a lower power when reading a map and then powers into full beam when focussed to the distance. In use it worked reasonably well, but felt a little slow to react in use and not as noticeable as the Petzl Nao.

In our opinion the LED Lenser SEO 7R  (http://www.ledlenser-store.co.uk/head-torches-c71/led-lenser-seo-7r-rechargeable-led-head-torch-p949)was the most versatile headtorch in the test and wins Editors Choice. The beam focussing was nice, the build solid, the rechargeable battery was great and it easy to change in the field. . It easily suitable for all mountain activities from a night run, a benighted last pitch, ice climbing to navigating your way off the mountain in the dark. A great headtorch and my favourite for climbing and teaching night navigation.

GCR Rating ***** – Editors Choice SRP: £79.99

Stockists (http://www.ledlenser-store.co.uk/head-torches-c71/led-lenser-seo-7r-rechargeable-led-head-torch-p949)

Petzl Nao 2014 (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/petzl-nao-2014.jpg?w=300&h=200) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/petzl-nao-2014.jpg)Petzl Nao 2014 Petzl says:

The NAO uses Petzl’s Reactive Lighting technology, providing light that automatically adapts to your environment. A sensor monitors reflected light from your direction of vision and adapts light output accordingly, so there’s no need to manually adjust brightness when looking between close or distant objects. Another benefit is that it only provides the power you need so the battery can last at least three times longer than it would do under constant full power. The NAO features twin LEDS and a sensor, linked to the rear-mounted battery by the Zephyr cord-lock headband. You can choose between Reactive Lighting or Static modes, with high/low output options in each. In Reactive Lighting mode the headset uses a high-output LED in a wide-angled beam, plus a second LED giving a focused beam where distance output is required. In Static non-reactive mode the headset uses both LEDs on constant. Maximum power output is 575 lumens, maximum beam 135m and max battery life 12.5 hours. The battery is a 2300 mAh lithium-ion unit, rechargeable via an integrated USB plug. The battery pack also accepts 2 x conventional AAA batteries. Performance profiles can be customised via Petzl’s OS 2.0 on your computer. The Petzl NAO gives you the right light when you need it – automatically.
The latest version of the Petzl Nao  (http://www.petzl.com/en/Sport/PERFORMANCE-headlamps/NAO?l=INT#.VFxXWGdyYdU)was by far the most powerful headtorch on test. If you want to climb any route in complete darkness then this is the headtorch for you. It’s a fully featured ‘turns night into day’ expedition headtorch. We had the latest version on test with an improved battery – a whopping 2600mAh Lithium-ion and the ability to run it off 2 AAA batteries when the rechargeable runs out. There was a battery indicator to let you know the battery was fully charged as well as how much charge was left.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/nao-2.jpg?w=300&h=225) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/nao-2.jpg)The battery compartment showing the massive battery and 2 emergency AAA batteries. The battery pack is rear mounted and charged via a normal usb pin. The whole unit came off via a small clip underneath and you just plug the whole unit into a usb plug. You then clip it back in and plug the wire in. This all felt very complicated and not easy to do in the field. It was important to get everything right at the beginning of the day as changing the batteries in the field was tricky, especially with no light.

The headband set up looked quite complicated but worked really well. The front of the Petzl Nao  (http://www.petzl.com/en/Sport/PERFORMANCE-headlamps/NAO?l=INT#.VFxXWGdyYdU)was elasticated band as normal, but the rear was static cord that cinched up with a cord lock. It fitted a climbing helmet brilliantly and was extremely stable with no movement at all. Of all the headtorches on test, the Nao was the best on a helmet. The tilt adjust was excellent, super solid clicks kept the headtorch in the position required with no movement or flopping- period!

 

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/nao-helmet.jpg?w=300&h=225) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/nao-helmet.jpg)A solid fit on a climbing helmet. The front unit was triangular in shape with the bottom two LEDs for providing light and the top being the Reactive Lighting sensor. The left hand LED had a diffused lens for providing general light and the right hand one for full power. On the right hand side was the large switch which you just gently twist forward – once for general light, hold it down a little longer for full, blinding power. The switch was the easiest to use on test with any gloves on. The Petzl Nao was also showerproof with an IPX4 rating.

(https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/nao.jpg?w=300&h=225) (https://climbinggearreviewsuk.files.wordpress.com/2014/11/nao.jpg)The Petzl Nao – like having the Sun on your head! On full power the Petzl Nao delivered an awesome 575 Lumens, a real light everything up beam. It easily lit up the way ahead clearly and was a great leader torch. The leader has the most powerful torch to light the way ahead whilst other team members have lower power headtorches to just follow. But whatever you do, do not turn around to look at team members – you will temporarily blind them!

The Reactive Technology worked really well. The Nao is designed to be hands free, look into the distance the light level adjusts to more power, but get the map out and turn the torch dims – it’s really amazing to witness just how good this is and Petzl are beginning to integrate it into some of the headtorch models such as the Tikka RXP. The lighting is also programmable using the Petzl OS software that can be downloaded from the Petzl website.

The Petzl Nao is best if you do a lot of Alpine climbing and spend a considerable amount of time moving in the dark. This is what it is designed for and this is the environment it works best in. It is also very useful for Polar work but needing access to electricity would limit its use on a full expedition. The battery however has lasted a long time and I have had the Nao on test for several months and haven’t needed to recharge it yet. You can buy a spare too so if you want to have one on expedition you can.

The updated 2014 model is a great improvement: the battery life has been improved and you can now run the headtorch off 2 AAA batteries which negates the need for the AAA adapter which was needed for the older model. This area though needs further improvement, I can however understand that the headtorch needs a big, powerful battery for the full power mode, it would have got 5 stars but for field change issue. The Petzl Nao  (http://www.petzl.com/en/Sport/PERFORMANCE-headlamps/NAO?l=INT#.VFxXWGdyYdU)never fails to impress students when I get it out on Night navigation courses, it’s almost cheating they cry – a worthwhile investment if you are heading for your Mountain Leader assessment – this will take the stress out of your Night Nav.  Do say as it gets dark – ‘my lead!’

CGR rating **** SRP: £145.00

Stockists (http://www.lyon.co.uk/outdoor/all-stockists/petzl-lighting-stockists)

 

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