UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Steve R on December 22, 2009, 05:24:35 pm
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I'm almost over climbing for numbers but I'll admit that I find 8A inspiring and as such it's a long term ambition of mine. I'm not quite shallow enough to be inspired by a number alone so need the added incentive of trying to do something that's actually quite good – hence asking for suggestions. I suppose I'm just looking for things that have good line and movement. Something with a good amount of moves for an 8A experience. ie. not a link up of easier problems or a longer traverse. Something fairly steep I think so the holds aren't too unpleasant. Limestone, grit or mountain rocks anywhere in yorkshire, the lakes, the peak or wales or even the County would all qualify. I'm a good way off that standard at the moment but it would be useful to see some good quality suggestions to aspire to in the coming year(s).
Cheers
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Careless Torque
Ironman @ trowbarrow
Jason's Roof @ Crookrise
Dunno if the UK is the land of inspiring Font 8a boulder problems, best to be shallow and look for the soft/popular ones. Press low right?
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river of life?
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Careless Torque
inspiring alright, thought it was 8A+? not sure I'll ever be able to get my foot up like that though...
Ironman @ trowbarrow
good call, likely candidate
Jason's Roof @ Crookrise
I thought of that one as I was writing the post. Isn't it 7C+ now though? Never even been to look at it but has a good rep.
Dunno if the UK is the land of inspiring Font 8a boulder problems
That's what I thought/have found so far so thought I'd ask....
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Will.
Help the young sitter
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what's Will?
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Prob in N Wales somewhere. Looks ace
Sure you know of this but if not
http://eliteukbinventory.blogspot.com/ (http://eliteukbinventory.blogspot.com/)
Plenty of inspiration
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Its at the Mallory boulder, unrepeated but very good, gets 7c+ though! (is prob 8a)
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Sure you know of this but if not
http://eliteukbinventory.blogspot.com/ (http://eliteukbinventory.blogspot.com/)
Plenty of inspiration
I didn't, nice one! The ticklists on there give all the inspiration I need, thanks alot.
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Press low right?
That's not soft for 7C+.
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Jerrys problem at the sheep pen boulders N wales
Clyde at parisellas cave N wales
Ride the wild smuff N wales really good line crimpy and powerful a present from mule
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Jerrys problem at the sheep pen boulders N wales
Clyde at parisellas cave N wales
Ride the wild smuff N wales really good line crimpy and powerful a present from mule
Ha ha nice one oracle, 7c+, 8a+ and 7c+ more like
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Zoo York (if it's ever dry again). Best 8A on grit that's not actually a route?
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Sway on Gallt Yr Ogof Ogwen valley :thumbsup:
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Just had a look at that Elite UKB - Queen Kong @ Queens Crag has got to be one of the best lines in the UK at Font 8a I would have thought. Vide of the sitter here: Jordan Buys Climbing Queen Kong (http://www.vimeo.com/2046840)
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Ha ha nice one oracle, 7c+, 8a+ and 7c+ more like
Yeah doylo nice work on Halfway! ill be back for pit and cavelife in tha new year keep em dry for us ;)
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Ironman @ trowbarrow
Now downgraded to 7c+.
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Zoo York would be top of my list if i was scratching at the balls of 8a.
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Ironman @ trowbarrow
Now downgraded to 7c+.
Really? None of the people who have actually done it took 7c+...?
Greg
Jordan Buys
Nik
Paul Smitton
Dan Warren
Ryan - Doesn't count.
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True, but on the new LB stuff it gets 7c+ :shrug:
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i second Queen Kong
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True, but on the new LB stuff it gets 7c+ :shrug:
I went back on it recently as i was trying the Pacman link, i still think its 8a, albeit soft.
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True, but on the new LB stuff it gets 7c+ :shrug:
I went back on it recently as i was trying the Pacman link, i still think its 8a, albeit soft.
Funny one this. I was having a similar conversation with Tom Newberry about this problem the other day. I downgraded it on the list because I noticed 'everyone' said it was soft, and easier with the new toe-hook beta - which I have yet to try. However, Tom and Nick Clement have had numerous sessions on it and still not done it (as far as I know). I just presumed this toe-hook jazz made it much easier, as was implied on various 8a.nu scorecards and general mutterings? Perhaps not. I'm happy to bump it back up to 8a...
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While I'm here I'm going to do some shameless pimping of my own (relevant) problem:
(http://lh5.ggpht.com/_d0-P3W4pdnA/SxmDAr7dNpI/AAAAAAAAATE/QUfctPTwcWU/s800/Iron%20Hide%20SDS%20%282%29.jpg)
This is one of the best 8a's (and boulders) I have seen in the UK.... well until someone downgrades it at least.
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Zoo york and Queen Kong both look fantastic, but neither of them are ever going to be dry again! :'(
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I just presumed this toe-hook jazz made it much easier, as was implied on various 8a.nu scorecards and general mutterings? Perhaps not. I'm happy to bump it back up to 8a...
I think you should ;) Newberry or Clement are hardly weak. The crux is still the transition into Vitruvian anyway.
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Clearly 8A, It adds at least 2 grades to the stand which is bottom end 7C, and is a lot harder than Art of Self Destruction at Woodwell. I didn't realise it was down as 7C+ either :o
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I did it without the going out left cheaty lanksters stuff ;) and it felt proper 8A to me. I'd agree with others, defo not 7C+. Maybe the toe-hook thing makes it soft 8A, but a soft 8A can just be a soft 8A rather than a nails 7C+.
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That's all good enough for me. Your wish is my command:
(http://www.maynardland.com/mediac/400_0/media/DIR_66179/finished~-~Genie~w$3A~tint~$283$29.jpg)
Iron Man is officially reinstated to 8a. ;)
I have added the stuff done in November and December to the lists too.
http://lakesbloc.com/graded-lists/7-8list-bycrag.pdf (http://lakesbloc.com/graded-lists/7-8list-bycrag.pdf)
http://lakesbloc.com/graded-lists/7-8list-bygrade.pdf (http://lakesbloc.com/graded-lists/7-8list-bygrade.pdf)
Also, I've updated the "Top 5o" list: http://lakesbloc.com/tick-lists/top-50-problems.html (http://lakesbloc.com/tick-lists/top-50-problems.html)
Open to suggested alterations for this...
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I'm just amazed Dense hasn't posted on this thread.
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Hey Greg - whats that one at St B's your on - looks cool. Maybe in touch for a visit soon.
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A mini thread resurrection...
I was out at Runcorn Heath with Andy Popp this lunchtime - and whilst (both) failing on a 7A+ > 7B+ depending in height arete, Andy mentioned his desire to do an 8A (to claim the E8, 8a and 8A triple) and its something I have always aspired to - and having scraped 7C earlier in the year feel its vaguely within range (albeit long range!)...
So setting this as a long term target (within 12-24 months) we both started talking about Iron Man at Trowbarrow (Stubbs had mentioned this to us a while back) as a possible candidate... any thoughts on this as a good 8A to project? Of course it all depends on our abilities and relative strengths/weaknesses etc... but its often fairly well in condition, within striking range (for me 90min of manchester) and of course you can start with Vitruvian man (the 7C) then work in the sit to make it harder - which would seem like a sensible way to start. Or - any other/better suggestions.
Basically - whats the softest touch 8A within range? ;)
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Backhand roof (non original version) into flying finish at Woodwell o'ert road is quite steady if you have decent hip flexibility and a few pads. Not far from trowbarrow either, so you could go work on both and see how you get on. It won't be 'in' for more of the year than iron man though but stays dry quite well once o'ert dries out.
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so you could go work on both
What would Gaskins say???? :spank:
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Depending on your testicular capacity I gather that Pebbledash is still in need of a repeat!
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Didn't Nik do that years ago?
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I have small balls and inflexible hips! fnarr..
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Andy mentioned his desire to do an 8A (to claim the E8, 8a and 8A triple)
As if I'd be so shallow! The very thought of it ...
Anyway, now my preposterous daydreams have been well and truly outed I will gladly accept all the help I can get.
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Andy mentioned his desire to do an 8A (to claim the E8, 8a and 8A triple)
As if I'd be so shallow! The very thought of it ...
Anyway, now my preposterous daydreams have been well and truly outed I will gladly accept all the help I can get.
:D
(hope you don't mind!)
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Backhand roof (non original version) into flying finish at Woodwell o'ert road is quite steady if you have decent hip flexibility and a few pads. Not far from trowbarrow either, so you could go work on both and see how you get on. It won't be 'in' for more of the year than iron man though but stays dry quite well once o'ert dries out.
Is this really soft 8a!?
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Didn't Nik do that years ago?
Nope, I had a play on a rope years and years before Nigel did the F.A. But have not done it. Isn't Iron Man considered rather soft 8a (7c+ really...) by "the masses"? Not saying I agree, just saying like.
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Zoo York
Traci Lords
Sabotage
Proper boulder problems, proper good.
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Will Mallory boulder it is 8a and v good
Cross therapy
Caseg groove sit
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Best 8a's I have done in the UK
Prep H (debatable grade)
Jason's roof (debatable grade)
Sideliner
Sole fusion
Will
Grand Opera Sit
Chaismata
Peckitts problem (best 8a I have done on the slime)
Metronome
Requiem for a dream (access issues)
Supersede sds
The end is nigh
Special cases (8a/8a+)
Zoo York
Good spread across the country for you.
Plenty more I haven't done!
If you are Yorkshire bound I would say there is some great 7c+ to do (some are probably more 8a) Ben's Groove, Underworld, Curious yellow (I thought it was 8a because I am 5 foot and a peanut) heaven in your hands.....