UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: duncan on July 04, 2022, 08:13:46 am
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https://www.instagram.com/p/CflFrCfIxHK/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
The longstanding Dumbarton project right of Requiem, finishing Unfinished Symphony.
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Well that just blows all of our conditions whinging out of the window!
He was saying last time I saw him on it that he was just sussing beta and it was likely it would be winter before he got it. What's next for the lad?
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From UKC:
“ The crux of Hunger is around 8A boulder, whereas I would suggest the crux of Free at Last is around 8B+/8C. It feels more comparable to Mutation as it shares its sustained, technical hard climbing but in this instance, all the holds are upside down! Hopefully the ascent will attract more people to come over to Dumbarton."
I’d have thought if you want to attract people to the route you’d need to grade it a lot harder than 9a+ if it’s got a 8B+/8C crux! Are there many other routes with this difficulty of move?
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Where's that grade calculator...
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Adam Ondra did an 8C boulder to some form of 8a romp to the belay this spring and argued that routes that have a hard boulder to easy scrambling should be graded one and a half letter grade harder than the boulder grade. 8C > 9a+ etc.
Fits with hubble as well I believe?
As far as I understand the French believe that there should be two full letter grade difference, but I have the feeling that French climbers grade boulder problems on routes harder than climbers in other countries where I have climbed and argued about the bouldering grade of cruxes on routes.
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Where's that grade calculator...
According to UKC the first part (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/dumbarton_rock-189/unfinished_symphony-270143) is about 8b+ to a good undercut (I assume this is a good rest), so the 8B+ part is gonna be after that somewhere. Plugging that in to the grade calculator gives 9b.
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I think Cassidy said on Insta (comment on an old post of Will's) that this route is separate from the 8b+. Could still be 9b with an 8a+ intro or if the boulder is closer to 8C, etc.
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Great stuff, proper LGP vibes :strongbench: :2thumbsup:
Would like to see a bit of a topo of the wall now. I wonder if the project to the left is a goer??
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Hi, just from the position of being with Will on a lot of these ascents and in comparison to other things he has done... the first bit after the ledge to the first undercut Will flies up... then again, the speed he went through Evolution when he was on Mutation was crazy so no idea on the grading of that section.
From there with the moves out right... it is some pretty wild climbing and would love some other wads to jump on it to comment. We checked over the film footage this morning and it's bonkers... a lot of small holds, most of them the wrong way around, with awful feet so you need to be strong and have good tekkers to not get spat off immediately.
I have no idea on the grade in a similar way to Mutation so will take Will's steer (9a+ or 9b) but from the point of view of a general climbing fan, it was awesome to see a big clear section of rock at an iconic crag get filled in with a route that has really cool moves.
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La Dumby Dumby would have been a much better name :lol:
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From UKC:
“ The crux of Hunger is around 8A boulder, whereas I would suggest the crux of Free at Last is around 8B+/8C. It feels more comparable to Mutation as it shares its sustained, technical hard climbing but in this instance, all the holds are upside down! Hopefully the ascent will attract more people to come over to Dumbarton."
I’d have thought if you want to attract people to the route you’d need to grade it a lot harder than 9a+ if it’s got a 8B+/8C crux! Are there many other routes with this difficulty of move?
Ondra gave 9b for a route with an 8C+ boulder crux so the grading seems to check out