UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: yetix on June 27, 2022, 05:08:20 pm
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New problem at Hartland by squire https://www.instagram.com/p/CfUIeQUjC5q/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y= for more info
Edit. Just seen dumas post on the other thread
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TBF, should prob get its own thread! Looks really good from the pics he's put up over the past while, hopefully the pobbles won't smash anything before Solly KD gets a chance!
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It looks brilliant! Does he pull on off a ladder and kick it down or start lower in the roof do you know?
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It looks brilliant! Does he pull on off a ladder and kick it down or start lower in the roof do you know?
Going off the vid it looks like he's starting off the ladder. You can see it wobbling a little in the background at the start.
Regardless it looks like ace climbing, 8C power scream at the end too!
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It depends on height of the pebbles on the beach as to whether you can pull on from the floor or need a bit more height.
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TBF, should prob get its own thread! Looks really good from the pics he's put up over the past while, hopefully the pobbles won't smash anything before Solly KD gets a chance!
Hopefully Its safe against the roof! I havent heard of any damage being done to The Kraken since it just got repeated.
On a seperate note to this, does anybody know if The Vault has seen any damage? Was keen to give that a punt
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Brutal stuff :2thumbsup:
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Sick. Great effort!
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Amazing effort, looks savage. But am I right in taking from the comments above that it starts from a ladder? Is that a thing? If so I'm assuming it makes sense but it's a bit odd and isn't mentioned on insta.
Do any other problems or routes start off a ladder?
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Off The Ladder!
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Seems totally legit to me. What else would you do, sack off the project until a storm washes up a load of pebbles? I'm sure the puritans on the sit start thread who insisted short people should walk away from problems rather than stack the minimum pads needed to reach the start holds will be choking on their false teeth right now.
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Amazing effort, looks savage. But am I right in taking from the comments above that it starts from a ladder? Is that a thing? If so I'm assuming it makes sense but it's a bit odd and isn't mentioned on insta.
Do any other problems or routes start off a ladder?
A few problems at Craig y Longridge start using a ladder (e.g Bend of the Rainbow). Excavation below the crag revealed a load of new sit starts but the pre-existing stand starts then either needed a jump or a ladder.
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I'm not questioning legitimacy, more trying to understand what's happening. A ladder isn't a regular part of my bouldering kit!
So the start holds can sometimes be reached from the ground when the beach level is high? And when its too low you reach them from a ladder? Seems fair, but probably worth mentioning before the Internet fills with pedants like me wondering what he's up to.
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So the start holds can sometimes be reached from the ground when the beach level is high? And when its too low you reach them from a ladder?
Yes. Understandable, can be up to a metre difference. I also thought in Pete W's recent Kraken photos the beach seemed higher than when Tom R did it.
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The beach is high(ish) at the moment. It's been higher in there but yes it was lower when Tom did the Kraken. I guess if James had had enough pads he'd have just stacked them to start, or built a wobbly tower of pebbles! It's a pretty obvious starting point and I reckon any form of starting in that same place is legit, get a leg up from your spotter, if you have one :lol:
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Seems totally legit to me. What else would you do, sack off the project until a storm washes up a load of pebbles? I'm sure the puritans on the sit start thread who insisted short people should walk away from problems rather than stack the minimum pads needed to reach the start holds will be choking on their false teeth right now.
;) Yep lost my false teeth watching that one. I think its an exemplar of a pure pursuit of difficulty within a bouldering context. However I have often tried to explain bouldering to non bouldering people and have usually resorted to arguments along the lines of aesthetics, a notion of a 'stripped down' type of climbing, free from artifice and low on equipment etc, specific and movement based. The little vid is either a kind of abstracted pure essence of climbing or heading off down the trail of mixed climbing, speed climbing, dry tooling, Himalayan mountaineering, ski touring and all the other genres I can't fathom out at all :( . After a second coffee I'll go with my first impression.
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I think the pure pursuit of difficulty within a bouldering context is pretty cool myself. Maybe a layman couldn't appreciate how hard or impressive it is, but a layman can't appreciate how very, truly hard snatching 180 and cleaning 205 in a comp is for example, that doesn't make it any less so
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It's a pretty obvious starting point
Guess that's the key bit. Plus opportunities to extend the start backwards!
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I think pretty much all worthwhile sports become unfathomable to the layman as the internal logic of the pursuit eventually shapes progress away from a simple narrative starting point. Who'd want to do something so dull that a layman can grasp the finer details?
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I think pretty much all worthwhile sports become unfathomable to the layman as the internal logic of the pursuit eventually shapes progress away from a simple narrative starting point. Who'd want to do something so dull that a layman can grasp the finer details?
I would think being able to explain the broader narrative might be possible for most human pursuits, I wasn't talking about the 'finer details'.
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"Short climbs with pads instead of ropes" pretty much covers the broad narrative. Beyond that you're getting into the realms of finer detail and divergent motivations/subdisciplines I guess. I'm just thinking aloud really, not trying to critique your position.
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"Short climbs with send train bellends instead of ropes"
:agree: :yes:
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Climbers' capabilities to reason have been refined by the subtle disputes of ethics; so that even they become pernickety and regard trifles as important.
(I am, of course, paraphrasing Nietzsche, the greatest copywriter of all time.)
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Climbers' capabilities to reason have been refined by the subtle disputes of ethics; so that even they become pernickety and regard trifles as important.
(I am, of course, paraphrasing Nietzsche, the greatest copywriter of all time.)
For Nietzsche active nihilism was the capacity to instill value, for to project meaning is the prime expression of the will to power, the sole underlying motive force of the world.
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There's nothing Nietzsche couldn't teach 'ya 'bout the raising of the wrist.
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Just down the road for me, in fact I was in the roof last night trying something a little less taxing. The starting hold is in a very obvious 'pod' in the roof.
The level of the pebbles can vary by metres and therefore sometimes you would need a ladder or pad stack to reach the starting holds. The levels change regularly with tide and swell eg.the Cave traverse was buried last night as the pebbles have been pushed up into a lump near the back of the cave.
That is just the nature of this cave in particular, I guess if you're not a regular visitor you would assume that things don't change.
I have mentioned elsewhere but why not again... Acheball is completely destroyed the original arete and starting holds have fallen off.
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TBF, should prob get its own thread! Looks really good from the pics he's put up over the past while, hopefully the pobbles won't smash anything before Solly KD gets a chance!
Hopefully Its safe against the roof! I havent heard of any damage being done to The Kraken since it just got repeated.
On a seperate note to this, does anybody know if The Vault has seen any damage? Was keen to give that a punt
The Vault is not damaged, the problems on Carnage wall are much less affected by pebble levels and storm damage. Any broken holds here have been done by big strong humans but nothing that has affected the problems significantly.
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TBF, should prob get its own thread! Looks really good from the pics he's put up over the past while, hopefully the pobbles won't smash anything before Solly KD gets a chance!
Hopefully Its safe against the roof! I havent heard of any damage being done to The Kraken since it just got repeated.
On a seperate note to this, does anybody know if The Vault has seen any damage? Was keen to give that a punt
The Vault is not damaged, the problems on Carnage wall are much less affected by pebble levels and storm damage. Any broken holds here have been done by big strong humans but nothing that has affected the problems significantly.
Cheers but I got The Waterman and The Vault confused fo each other! Being right next to Ache Ball, The Waterman will be succeptable to damage.
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Nothing is damaged on The Waterman. Start not possible at the moment because beach level is so high under it, would expect this to change fairly soon though..
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Who'd want to do something so dull that a layman can grasp the finer details?
Every runner in the house scratches chin..
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Great interview on the other channel:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2022/06/paradise_found_8c_first_ascent_at_hartland_quay_by_james_squire-73087
Couple of particular gems:
- 15 weekends in a row on a 5hr round trip! Pretty amazing commitment.
- Gained 8kg, presumably in muscle from training in the gym to better withstand the stresses of the problem. Not sure I've ever heard of anyone gaining weight in order to do a climb! Would love to know if he did anything in particular to get used to climbing at a higher body weight, as my personal experience is that an extra 8kg knocks a few grades off...
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Great interview on the other channel:
https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2022/06/paradise_found_8c_first_ascent_at_hartland_quay_by_james_squire-73087
Couple of particular gems:
- 15 weekends in a row on a 5hr round trip! Pretty amazing commitment.
- Gained 8kg, presumably in muscle from training in the gym to better withstand the stresses of the problem. Not sure I've ever heard of anyone gaining weight in order to do a climb! Would love to know if he did anything in particular to get used to climbing at a higher body weight, as my personal experience is that an extra 8kg knocks a few grades off...
Wasn’t he starting from the point of being a bit of string bean?
If it were me, an extra 8kg would leave me bed ridden…
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8kg of what looks to be largely muscle is very impressive gainz in a year or so!
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Yeah that's a solid effort!
Incidentally I'm heavier than I've even been before right now and I'm also stronger than ever before, my fingers are also in better shape than they've ever been... so I dunno how much weight makes a difference for some but for steep bouldering for me a bit more beef was really good
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That said I ain't doing 8C mind you
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, as my personal experience is that an extra 8kg knocks a few grades off...
If it were me, an extra 8kg would leave me bed ridden…
No fucking shit. Or 10-15kg. >:( :sick:
But obviously he's put it on to specifically climbing relevant muscles around arms back shoulders etc
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Repeated by Solly Kemball-Dorey. Some good photos and video in the IG post:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CfeoO0HMP90/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
There is plenty of space to extend it further into the cave and there are holds. Small child for scale.
(https://i.imgur.com/nqnBt9v.jpg)
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Great repeat. Fuck me insta is so fucking awful as a social medium. Video looks great, good angle and so clear, and there's no easy way to watch it full screen. Fucking shambles. Love the finish on it regardless.
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Solly has put a fair bit of weight (muscle) on over the past year. It's good to see these guys trying getting stronger and more robust and rather than light.
Nice work James and Solly.
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Bet there’s some decent back slapper falls footage, matching into the undercuts looks so tenuous.
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Fuck me insta is so fucking awful as a social medium. Video looks great, good angle and so clear, and there's no easy way to watch it full screen. Fucking shambles.
Now on YouTube:
https://youtu.be/m1-9dFMirWE
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Fuck me insta is so fucking awful as a social medium. Video looks great, good angle and so clear, and there's no easy way to watch it full screen. Fucking shambles.
Now on YouTube:
https://youtu.be/m1-9dFMirWE
Fuck me, that feet first finish looks pretty spicy!
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Cheers Duncan. Video comes with a free MUTE ASAP warning :ohmy:
That finish is still brilliant, what a way to gain the jugs.
Solly has put a fair bit of weight (muscle) on over the past year. It's good to see these guys trying getting stronger and more robust and rather than light.
JFC really. 1:10 he's a rake with shoulders and lats. As usual it's a showcase of how important being light is.
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Thick and juicy is the way and the light
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Cheers Duncan. Video comes with a free MUTE ASAP warning :ohmy:
That finish is still brilliant, what a way to gain the jugs.
Solly has put a fair bit of weight (muscle) on over the past year. It's good to see these guys trying getting stronger and more robust and rather than light.
JFC really. 1:10 he's a rake with shoulders and lats. As usual it's a showcase of how important being light is.
I didn't say he wasn't still light, he's young and also that is his build but he has put on a reasonable amount of weight/muscle to make him stronger, rather than going down the line of trying to lose weight. Climbing is always going to be weight dependent sport but what I was saying with James and Solly is that it is good to see they recognised they needed to be stronger and more injury resistant and so put on muscle bulk and weight to climb harder, rather than trying to eek out marginal gains by losing weight.
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Fair point yes, he looks lean / very slim, rather than too skinny, and your general point of going down the safer path of bigger guns rather than bigger eating disorders is a good one.