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music, art and culture / Re: The right to counter-protest
« Last post by jwi on Today at 06:05:37 pm »
very late to the party, but are you guys debating weather it is a good idea to have separate entries for the manchester united and liverpool ultras berfore the match, and to let the police enforce the separation? It is.
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chuffing / Re: Historical Nuggets
« Last post by Will Hunt on Today at 05:58:28 pm »
Surely not. Were Bleausards really climbing sit-starts on obscure boulders in obscure areas in the late 70s?

Of only tangential relevance, but people obsessing over weird bits of rock is older than you might think.
Gremlin's Wall, E4 6b, Ilkley Rocky Valley, unstarred. Climb Flake Climb but boldly venture up the wall (about 3m tall) right of the final flake. FA Roy Heilds 1953.
Quote
A very significant lead by a local expert who spent the summer bivouacking in The Valley. Probably the hardest on gritstone anywhere at the time, it was dismissed by many who thought it impossible for the day and was omitted in the 1961 guidebook until its rediscovery by Al Manson in 1977.

Maybe Heilds was the Gaskins of his day? I've gone up to lead it and been pretty sure I'd do it but didn't think the risk of hitting my ankles on the ledge you climb above was worth the 0-star reward. Did it with a rope above after and it's very obvious what you have to do and not massively hard, so could be top end 6a/low end 6b. Regardless, very impressive for the early 1950s! It's really uninspiring but obviously Heilds could see that it would go and couldn't get the idea out of his head.
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power club / Re: Power Club 749 15-21 April 2024
« Last post by Duma on Today at 05:57:08 pm »
Happy birthday Shark! And enjoy your trip!
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chuffing / Re: Historical Nuggets
« Last post by Tom de Gay on Today at 05:30:14 pm »
Surely not. Were Bleausards really climbing sit-starts on obscure boulders in obscure areas in the late 70s?

The plus grades were a later addition to the scale (not sure when, early 80s?), hence there being not very many 6C+, 6B+ etc. So I guess the first 7B+ would probably have been a 7B or C originally.

Edit: also, I don't think the first ascensionist was active until the late 80s
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power club / Re: Power Club 749 15-21 April 2024
« Last post by shark on Today at 03:58:01 pm »

M

T. Tor. Tin Of with Andy C. Didn’t redpoint it this time but had a decent session and found out I could do the old way on the crux again and then also figured out a better foot sequence and body position

W

T Back with Ben S. Good connies and rock drier. First go got warmed up on the bottom section. Second go got thru to high on headwall on redpoint and only came off because my hand slipped off a large sidehold. Third go redpointed it. Fourth go on TR got through crux again but got sidehold badly and slipped off trying to pull through to shake

F

S. Malham. 60th birthday 😱 Great day with Tommy and Seb - joined by Duncan, Matthew and Sharon. Fell off Consenting but then redpointed it. Retro flashed Free and Even Easier. Had three tie ins on the starting section of the Oak but couldn’t do a move. Seb wasn’t much better. Tommy did much better despite having given up climbing a couple of years ago. Super evening bash in the village hall.

S.

Now in Kalymnos for 10 days
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for sale / wanted / Re: UKB Freecycle
« Last post by mr chaz on Today at 03:13:19 pm »
What a pitch  :lol:

I'll be first to say, no thanks!
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music, art and culture / Re: The right to counter-protest
« Last post by Will Hunt on Today at 03:08:43 pm »
Even pre-7th Oct in 2021 I had to report some stickers that had appeared in suburban West Yorkshire. A load of mad conspiracy shit, including one of the star of David and the words "Britain Is Under Occupation".
the guy who made the stickers (but didn’t necessarily place them) is now in prison for 2 years
So the CPS at least take this sort of thing very seriously

Ah, that's excellent! I hadn't realised this had happened. That is indeed the organisation that had planted the stickers and I was pleased at the time that the police did attend and look for evidence (they looked for prints and checked CCTV).

Regarding my previous post I wasn't really making a point, just trying to add some extra weight to Mike's point that Jews may have very good reason to feel less safe in the UK than they've felt in a long time. I've read the thread but not felt compelled to respond as don't think I have much to add. I broadly agree with a right to counter-protest but if that's going to involve intentionally provoking the other side to do you harm then the police have a job to prevent that.

I did think that Stone's comment in the OP about "standing up to the mob" was daft. Who decides who is the mob? I think the EDL are a mob, some people will think that Extinction Rebellion/Just Stop Oil/people protesting the Iraq war are/were a mob. Every peaceful protest is somebody else's mob.
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for sale / wanted / Re: FS: Unparallel Leopard II uk9
« Last post by unclesomebody on Today at 02:56:38 pm »
Gone!
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for sale / wanted / Re: UKB Freecycle
« Last post by Droyd on Today at 02:50:37 pm »
I have an absolutely disgusting Saturn that I keep meaning to take to the tip, but am posting here in case anyone out there has incredibly low standards.

The foam is useless, the cover is ripped, and at some point a while back one of my cats decided to use it instead of the litter tray.

Free to a good/anosmic home if someone wants to collect it from Sheffield, but not holding my breath (or I am, but only because it stinks).
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diet, training and injuries / Re: One for the runners
« Last post by duncan on Today at 02:46:26 pm »
This might be an appropriate point to cite the infamous study on charity skydiving which found the small number of expensive injuries meant the activity cost the NHS £14 for every £1 raised!

Conversely, for many years l led physiotherapy support for London marathon runners fundraising for Versus Arthritis. I really enjoyed volunteering, they had funded some of my research, it was a great experience for the students, the runners were very appreciative (especially the 5+ hours folk), and Versus Arthritis valued the considerable funds raised directly and also the awareness-raising. I spoke with 100s of participants and, much like T_B and SA Chris, motivations were nearly always two-fold: both a personal challenge and the opportunity to raise money for a cause close to their heart.
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