Was it your chalk on the start we saw yesterday?
Watched a video on bleau.info, not only did I miss an obvious solution to the problem but I missed a f*cking start hold as well, no wonder it felt like the living end! NNFN!
Was it your chalk on the start we saw yesterday?
Was up there saturday. T_B and Bob Smith did it, but I didn't. Was it dry yesterday? That's even more of a NNFN then, as went out Monday, but drips all down it, then beasted myself in the cellar as forecast for yesterday was pants. Double NNFN!!! Oh well, tomorrow it is then...
Anyway, if anyone fancies it tomorrow, PM me - the more (pads) the merrier, and there ain't no snow on top. Well, maybe a flurry.
Dob a lob might be up for it Joe, we were meant to be out today but it didn't happen and he also told me he'd never been to Froggatt :o
nope Dave. I tried to tell him that he might get a shock at the size of all of the highball 7a+'s...
Someone told me Dob had never topped anything out at the Plantation either.
Watched a video on bleau.info, not only did I miss an obvious solution to the problem but I missed a f*cking start hold as well, no wonder it felt like the living end! NNFN!
I did this with Sur-Prises except it wasn't a starting hold. :wall:
Its the screw driver hole by the lock and the fact I have to get the locks changed (again) that really pisses me off!
hi. i was gonna train at the works tonight then drive out to brush the snow off brad pit. i was hoping this would stop snowmelt run off and it would be dry sat and sun. do you lot think this will work. the forecast is good for rest of week.
Back on topic! I went to Ina's Rock to try Thumbelina on Sunday. Did the crux second go but then turned into a complete pussy and wouldn't commit to the top section. Got back to my car to find it had been broken into. Strangely they left a down jacket and CD player and took the plastic sat nav stand and my small backpack which was full of chalk dust and used tape and a scuzzy old pair of climbing shoes. Its the screw driver hole by the lock and the fact I have to get the locks changed (again) that really pisses me off!
hi. i was gonna train at the works tonight then drive out to brush the snow off brad pit. i was hoping this would stop snowmelt run off and it would be dry sat and sun. do you lot think this will work. the forecast is good for rest of week.
I am well keen to get back on Thumbelina. The moves and holds are awesome. I was on my own for most of my session so next time i'll try and convince more people to go for more pads and moral support!
Mine's a Peugeot 306.
Got back to my car to find it had been broken into. Strangely they left a down jacket and CD player and took the plastic sat nav stand and my small backpack which was full of chalk dust and used tape and a scuzzy old pair of climbing shoes. Its the screw driver hole by the lock and the fact I have to get the locks changed (again) that really pisses me off!
the last time i was wet.
the last time i was wet. but still slightly annoying.
I did this with Sur-Prises except it wasn't a starting hold. :wall:
Did you do it in the end? I dropped into the second (small) undercling with my left, then went up with my right. Will have to go back and do the top move with my left for the proper Real Thing tick...
yeah cos Im fat and old before anyone else says it:agree:
i managed to tweak my back last week.it had improved enough to plan to go climbing on monday,however bending over to get a top out of the washer it went in to spasm again.so i did a bit of deadhanging and went for a walk.my back was feeling much better by sunday but rather than throwing caution to the wind and going climbing i did a session on the finger board.
result co codamol and anti spasmodics and the joys of sitting watching day time tv.
Quoting Star Wars is all very well, but by not eating pancakes he'll be going against Jesus. Stoic batter resistance might please the man who gave us Jar Jar Binks... but only at the cost of pissing off Daddy "G". My advice: there's always another day to diet, whereas a plague of blood will be a bitch to shift from the soft-furnishings.
My advice: there's always another day to diet
UTFL!
Went out in Wicklow today, being hopelessly optimistic that stuff would be dry. Did one problem all day, everything was saturated. Went back to the car only to find some scum had smashed the back window and nicked the GPS I had hidden under the seat!Where did you go and which car park was it? I had my window done when I was out biking on Jouce.
A major NNFN moment indeed! >:( :furious:
n.b The one problem that did get done was a nice new arete I did with my mate John, that does begin to make up for it somewhat! And we cleaned a really cool project in time for the Bouldering Meet next weekend...who's coming? :goodidea:
Went out in Wicklow today, being hopelessly optimistic that stuff would be dry. Did one problem all day, everything was saturated. Went back to the car only to find some scum had smashed the back window and nicked the GPS I had hidden under the seat!Where did you go and which car park was it? I had my window done when I was out biking on Jouce.
A major NNFN moment indeed! >:( :furious:
n.b The one problem that did get done was a nice new arete I did with my mate John, that does begin to make up for it somewhat! And we cleaned a really cool project in time for the Bouldering Meet next weekend...who's coming? :goodidea:
Where was your arete?
Oh that sucks - the thieving bastards from tallaghfornia seem to frequent that car park quite a lot. Are the boulders still clean at Lough Bray? I went through quite a few brushes cleaning that place off........Went out in Wicklow today, being hopelessly optimistic that stuff would be dry. Did one problem all day, everything was saturated. Went back to the car only to find some scum had smashed the back window and nicked the GPS I had hidden under the seat!Where did you go and which car park was it? I had my window done when I was out biking on Jouce.
A major NNFN moment indeed! >:( :furious:
n.b The one problem that did get done was a nice new arete I did with my mate John, that does begin to make up for it somewhat! And we cleaned a really cool project in time for the Bouldering Meet next weekend...who's coming? :goodidea:
Where was your arete?
Lough Bray, it was parked in the little quarry beside the road. It was the left hand arete on that boulder past the car park above Glenmacnass waterfall. The one with the slopey project going up the middle. Very nice problem. First ascent apparently. We decided to call it Smash 'n Grab :P
Heading back to try the project at the meet next weekend.
Are the boulders still clean at Lough Bray? I went through quite a few brushes cleaning that place off........
You must have done a damn good job of cleaning them! They were spotless when I was there! Except for a couple of things that might still go... :) Pity everything was soaked though. Are you still living in Ireland or moved on to pastures new? And if you are living in Ireland, have I met you? :-\
Just fell off the finishing jug on Ben's roof. Punter
You must have done a damn good job of cleaning them! They were spotless when I was there! Except for a couple of things that might still go... :) Pity everything was soaked though. Are you still living in Ireland or moved on to pastures new? And if you are living in Ireland, have I met you? :-\
Nope - I live in Vancouver now - I spent many weekends scrubbing boulders around wicklow when I lived in dublin.
Cheers,
Andy
Fell off last move on Lou Ferrino before very nearly blacking out.
Very NNFN!
Need to get fitter
I recon thats a big club
I think there should be a fucking club for RA last move greasers.
no greasers in my house please, apart from female 30 stoners
I can't even skate, let alone climb. NNFN!(http://pro.corbis.com/images/WL010757.jpg?size=67&uid=%7B970CFDD7-BA1E-49C6-BBBE-ED1F2CEACA60%7D)
How can you have shit beta for "crimp the side of the crack really hard and stand up"? ;)
How can you have shit beta for "crimp the side of the crack really hard and stand up"? ;)
I might however have showed Fiend the shit beta on Strawberries for a laugh.
Piss off, I did Strawberries (by the easiest way), before I'd even heard of "Sloper" or "Jaspersharpe" :P
Moving out at the end of the month, the end of a 14 year relationship, NNFN, or should it be YYFY.
This is the video of that attempt. Make sue you have sound on so you can hear that A2 go :'(
I am Jack's raging sense of pissedoffedness.
Hit the wine for now eh?
Hit the wine for now eh?
I certainly am <hic> :alky:
have you been standing with lincoln on your right or something?
work Sloper's
My BlackStallion suit has zips to leave sensitive areas be. I can dust it off, just say the word.
(http://www.altnation.com/forums/attachments/junk-talk/58215d1146435710-gimp-suit-blackstallion.jpg)
Don't blame me, you clicked on it you sicko.
It's quite a solid V5. I found the trick was to have good conditions, bear down on the arete, and be very careful slowly sliding the heel-toe out.
I then resorted to trying a crazy method that seemed to have promise, heel-toe as before but work RH onto the good crimp round the arete (left pinching the arete)...could get the heel-toe out in control and actually get my LF round the arete, but then didn't have anywhere to put my LH!
It's quite a solid V5. I found the trick was to have good conditions, bear down on the arete, and be very careful slowly sliding the heel-toe out.
I then resorted to trying a crazy method that seemed to have promise, heel-toe as before but work RH onto the good crimp round the arete (left pinching the arete)...could get the heel-toe out in control and actually get my LF round the arete, but then didn't have anywhere to put my LH!
This is what I did, then from LF around the arete, cross LH over to the top hold as Moose suggests, bring RF onto one of the good holds on the face, RH to somewhere around the LH, then pop.It's quite a solid V5. I found the trick was to have good conditions, bear down on the arete, and be very careful slowly sliding the heel-toe out.
I thought it worth 7a, harder than The Nose for me.
Rinsing Easterlies tonight dude I hope you were out.
It's two grades easier than The Nose for the more "compact" gentlemen.
It's two grades easier than The Nose for the more "compact" gentlemen.
One of us must be doing something wrong and if you think The Nose is 7a+ it must be you (not sure if I'm supposed to insert a smiley of some kind here to indicate this is a light-hearted gesture not intended to cause offence). You must need the right beta, try this:
I also think the nose is 7a+, especially when problems like gorilla, early doors and trackside get 7a. harder than all those for me.
I also think the nose is 7a+, especially when problems like gorilla, early doors and trackside get 7a. harder than all those for me.
I agree.
I also think the nose is 7a+, especially when problems like gorilla, early doors and trackside get 7a. harder than all those for me.
I agree.
Really? I reckon Trackside is piss, as is The Nose, but GW and ED are nails. A Power Endurance thing perchance?
i just hope you've learnt your lesson.
Then did a weird route called Vogon which goes up Monday Blue (the arete on the right), then traverses across the break at 2/3rds height to finish up Little Unconquerable. The reason for the name only dawned on me this morning (and its very apt :P).
Then did a weird route called Vogon which goes up Monday Blue (the arete on the right), then traverses across the break at 2/3rds height to finish up Little Unconquerable. The reason for the name only dawned on me this morning (and its very apt :P).
Pray tell?
Then did a weird route called Vogon which goes up Monday Blue (the arete on the right), then traverses across the break at 2/3rds height to finish up Little Unconquerable. The reason for the name only dawned on me this morning (and its very apt :P).
Pray tell?
Vogons are the aleins in Hitchikers Guide to the Galaxy that plough through the middle of solar systems to make the Intergalactic Highway (at least in the first book thats what they're doing).
Cough cough.... ;)
Scuttling left at the top of RU is comparable to scuttling down from the break on WSS :-\ :whistle:
Cheers. I know who Vogons are (were?) but didn't get the link.
I've never understood why the Little Unc has got 'a reputation' though.
Fiend, you ignore the fact that a) it ain't really an escape and I still topped out, and b) need I mention, I've since topped out direct, solo, barefoot with my cock out.This is definitely a stylistic improvement over just trainers :-\ ;)
Fiend, you ignore the fact that a) it ain't really an escape and I still topped out, and b) need I mention, I've since topped out direct, solo, barefoot with my cock out.
That aint gonna fly for failing on Morrell's. Put it down to high gravity or something.Afraid so, Morrells was relatively icy... I put it down to general shitness.. :'(
another 7c neil? do you still have problems to climb in font?
i just got back from rainbow rocket, day 2 on the beast hitting the top pretty much every time but I cant hold it :wall:
Gotta keep an eye out for twats rolling their cars round that way though.
Drove 1 1/4 hours to Almscliff to discover its the only place in Yorkshire that was raining (well in my journey anyway). Then was torn between a dank midgy dogshitty Wetherby and a dank midgy Caley decided to give the latter a blast as it wasnt raining over that side of the valley.
Drove 1 1/4 hours to Almscliff to discover its the only place in Yorkshire that was raining (well in my journey anyway). Then was torn between a dank midgy dogshitty Wetherby and a dank midgy Caley decided to give the latter a blast as it wasnt raining over that side of the valley.
Should have persevered with Almscliff. It went from piss wet through to bone dry in about half an hour and turned into a lovely evening. However, my pad now stinks of stagnant water.
Gotta keep an eye out for twats rolling their cars round that way though.
Drove 1 1/4 hours to Almscliff to discover its the only place in Yorkshire that was raining (well in my journey anyway). Then was torn between a dank midgy dogshitty Wetherby and a dank midgy Caley decided to give the latter a blast as it wasnt raining over that side of the valley.
Should have persevered with Almscliff. It went from piss wet through to bone dry in about half an hour and turned into a lovely evening. However, my pad now stinks of stagnant water.
Yup :( Thought that as I drove past it on the way home... such is life. Though the other week I got fed up of messing around under the virgin boulder waiting for it to stop/dry and figured it might be the same...
Hows it looking today? forecast looks turd..
A4?
Welcome to the Pulley club.
Do it. DH is the perfect way to ensure your fingers mend.
So, Mr GCW,
How well recovered do you feel now, 3 months down the line?
I have no idea what I've done (feels similar to a "trapped nerve" type spinal thing I had as a teenager but not as bad) but I'm at work now dosed up with painkillers and praying that it's not just them that are making it feel a hell of a lot better than it did first thing this am. We shall see but it looks as if another trip to the physio beckons.
NNFN. >:(
So Jasper, hopefully in three or four days you should be able to move your head properly, but I'll let you know how the climbing goes.
maybe it's this 'spine flu' that the news people keep telling us about?
If you get into a pub debate about injuries you can be sure no-one is going to be able to beat "walking around with a broken back for 9 months" though.
Must be summat in the air as I've now got the necking neck pain!!! Car failed it's MOT (£600 of NNFN) so had to go indoors (NNFN) and slipped off a greasy smear while looking up, wasn't too bad at first but is pretty painful right now... Better be Ok this time next week as I'm driving to Font... Don't think I'll be getting back on the 7b I so nearly did at 2 tier on Sunday this week either... NNFN!!!!!
Tell me about it. Gout? I'm very impressed, that so debauched 18th century aristocrat.
Didn't know Black Diamond made baggy cycling shorts?On any normal size human being those shorts could be used as a sleeping bag.....
thats such a strong photo blunk. underbite, backwards cap, cycling shorts. surely this must go in the old skool pics thread as well ;)
next hold looks like its going to ask questions of your pain tolerance
GA looks like it's wet for the year, just as I was getting close :wall: I hate the british bloody weather >:(
snapped holds off deep water soloing, hit big spiky rocks, mild concussion, fractured head of radius and a very sore ass.Recover soon Mr Cream, what happened to the deep water landing though?
snapped holds off deep water soloing, hit big spiky rocks, mild concussion, fractured head of radius and a very sore ass. Actually could be a YYFY, considering i was on my own and didn't a) break anything worse b) drown.
Hairich, you might well have dislocated your hip if you regularly warm down by being involved in a high speed rta.
GA looks like it's wet for the year, just as I was getting close :wall: I hate the british bloody weather >:(
:(
NNFN!!!
I am on crutches with a massive ankle and won't be climbing for ages and it's sunny outside, I want to cry...
:'(
:(
NNFN!!!
I am on crutches with a massive ankle and won't be climbing for ages and it's sunny outside, I want to cry...
:'(
Will, what happened? You were storming through those 8's.... bad news, hope its a simple injury rather than something complex & long healing...
front door locks.
front door locks.
Bummer. Front door locks barrels aren't too bad to replace if the bodywork is OK, but it will mean you have a different key to open the door and start the van, unless you get the barrels cut to suite the key, which can be costly.
I agree
paul can you stop writing in this thread, it worries me the moment before i look
I haven't broken anything and nobody died, but....
Just had to pop back from my week in Font to work for 1 day, as my employers decided not to let me have both the days off in lieu that I am owed in the same week. :wall:
You may not feel you personally benefit from the differences but to pretend there aren't any is just being obtuse. Alien is a good smallish local wall catering very well for lower/mid grade climbers. Ratho is a huge training and climbing facility with no equals in the country churning out a large chunk of the current British Youth Team.
That sounds crap slopes, how'd you do that then?
Seriously injured shoulder
Just got a Canon HV20 Video Camera, got a copy of Adobe CS4 to edit footage, raynox 6600 on it's way for Christmas..
and I've just realised my old PC doesn't have the capability to run the software, which means a whole new computer which I hadn't factored in... bugger!!!
>:(
Unlucky Sloper.. was it the same shoulder you tweaked when we were out a few weeks back??
I don't know, I injured it last year, possibly separated it pulling onto an easy problem with Falling Down and it just 'went' when I rolled over in my sleep two days ago.
From our conversation about my Kray, I thought you'd have checked :lol:
Good excuse to build something though :thumbsup:
get a new computer under the radar
Spent an hour trying jet set (the famous 7a in bleau) grabbing the final hold multiple times but never being able to hold on to it after an already long day of climbing :'(. It didn't even feel that hard but not pausing between attemps wasn't the smartest thing to do. It's a hard way to learn a simple tip: don't rush it! Haven't been that frustrated for a loooooong time.I've been climbing this way all my life and still haven't learnt my lesson.
GCW, is 3g/day of Amoxicillin an exceptionally high dose?
Most websites say 1500mg max :shrug:
Mind you, the fever and nightmares on Monday night were a bit mental.
So, eh, is my elbow pretty bad then? Or are French doctors just a little trigger-happy when it comes to drugs?
They did leave the cannula in my arm for about 3 hours after taking blood samples I was starting to think they might put me on IV antibiotics for a while.
Mind you, the fever and nightmares on Mnday night were a bit mental.
It's looking distinctly like we might not make it back for christmas :-( FUUUUUCCCCKKKKKK :thumbsdown:
It's looking distinctly like we might not make it back for christmas :-( FUUUUUCCCCKKKKKK :thumbsdown:
Oh noes mate! That's a proper NNFN. I'll keep my fingers crossed for you.
Unfortunately, some of us have jobs :lol:
Unfortunately, some of us have jobs :lol:
Whats one of them?
think "i am Jerry moffatt" at least one hour a day
in case you don't know dave mc's ideas on this, here you are:I'm typing with one hand and the other one in a nice, cold mini-bath as we speak (for the 6th time this week). Nice to be able to test it myself.
(http://www.davemacleod.com/articles/coldtreatment.html)
Did you get the nice noise?unfortunately not, I only noticed it after i finished the boulder problem. One of the hardest in our gym so i really was getting strong 8) buyakasa! I guess the jerry moffatt mantra was helping.
Actually this is one thing they will take seriously as it's a priority offence (well it used to be).
Motor Insurance Bureau doesn't do damage only as far as I remember. Follow the convicton for driving without and failing to stop and report with a civil claim, plead s.11 CEA and you automatically win.
Is he going to pay the extra to cover your increased insuance premiums for the next x amount of years as well?
Actually this is one thing they will take seriously as it's a priority offence (well it used to be).
Motor Insurance Bureau doesn't do damage only as far as I remember. Follow the convicton for driving without and failing to stop and report with a civil claim, plead s.11 CEA and you automatically win.
So you reckon this is a better route than nicely asking the guy to give me a cheque to cover my excess loss? Despite his obvious failings as a paperwork and reverse-gear man, he seemed sort of reasonable and thought I might be able to do something in a nice gentlemanly british way.... Or am I living in cloud cockoo land? Don't answer that.... ;)
Actually this is one thing they will take seriously as it's a priority offence (well it used to be).
Motor Insurance Bureau doesn't do damage only as far as I remember. Follow the convicton for driving without and failing to stop and report with a civil claim, plead s.11 CEA and you automatically win.
So you reckon this is a better route than nicely asking the guy to give me a cheque to cover my excess loss? Despite his obvious failings as a paperwork and reverse-gear man, he seemed sort of reasonable and thought I might be able to do something in a nice gentlemanly british way.... Or am I living in cloud cockoo land? Don't answer that.... ;)
Or maybe ask him to pay for the entire repair cost?!!? Threaten him with the possibility of involving the police and the related consequences of a prosecution and the connected financial costs......
Get Cash not a chequeActually this is one thing they will take seriously as it's a priority offence (well it used to be).
Motor Insurance Bureau doesn't do damage only as far as I remember. Follow the convicton for driving without and failing to stop and report with a civil claim, plead s.11 CEA and you automatically win.
So you reckon this is a better route than nicely asking the guy to give me a cheque to cover my excess loss? Despite his obvious failings as a paperwork and reverse-gear man, he seemed sort of reasonable and thought I might be able to do something in a nice gentlemanly british way.... Or am I living in cloud cockoo land? Don't answer that.... ;)
Or maybe ask him to pay for the entire repair cost?!!? Threaten him with the possibility of involving the police and the related consequences of a prosecution and the connected financial costs......
I'd approach him and say - its going to cost this much I'd like a cheque please. If he says no way, then just go to the police - say he failed to report the accident, drove away from the scene and has now told you he is uninsured. Ask them for a crime number for your insurance company (this at least will mean they will register it as a crime..). Ask your insurance company if they will chase it up for you - if not theres always the small claims court (up to 1k I understand) and easy to go with..
He may seem like a nice guy and if he is he'll cough up. Bottom line is he has caused you to be out of pocket - and driven off and its his liability and he should be insured (and he's breaking the law in more than one way). Round here (Humberside) they tow away uninsured vehicles and crush them - maybe remind him of that...
Good luck to you - its hard but at least you have his name and address... I'd say its up to him to make the amends!
Is he going to pay the extra to cover your increased insuance premiums for the next x amount of years as well?
he seemed sort of reasonable and thought I might be able to do something in a nice gentlemanly british way
Report the fucker to the cops, that is what they are there for, partly. The more people get away without driving with insurance the more the rest of us pay to compensate. Have him hung, drawn and quartered I say.
Report the fucker to the cops, that is what they are there for, partly. The more people get away withoutdriving without insurance the more the rest of us pay to compensate. Have him hung, drawn and quartered I say.
They don't call you Cofe "the echo" Cofefield for nothing do they?Report the fucker to the cops, that is what they are there for, partly. The more people get away without driving with insurance the more the rest of us pay to compensate. Have him hung, drawn and quartered I say.
They don't call you Cofe "the echo" Cofefield for nothing do they?Report the fucker to the cops, that is what they are there for, partly. The more people get away without driving with insurance the more the rest of us pay to compensate. Have him hung, drawn and quartered I say.
;)
i'd still prefer the mopping.
The heaviest I have ever been today. 89.5kg
no wonder I was shit down the wall
NNFN!
I'll actually have to diet now
I may have to stab someone.
can we nominate who?
Just tipped 14 stone mark. Personal Heaviest for me. Was over a stone less this time last year.snap
Bugger on hamstring, what did you do?
Twanged summat in me knee down the works tonight... Can't straighten it, can't walk, hurts like f*ck! :thumbsdown:Bummer's knee, AGAIN??
wandered over to Electrical Storm,
Spent ages trying to go direct up the lightning feature to no avail.
Anyway just as we were about to give up I thought I'd look at going right. Did the move first time. Did the next move to the top. Fuck me that was piss! Right, now I know what to do, I'll get it done.
How did you do the move right in the end? I tried this yesterday afternoon and can't make the move out right, just can't reach without getting my feet into what seems like an unfeasible position.
If it's not part of the block then it's out, but I think there is a decent 1-2 inch deep by 4-5 inch wide foothold before the top out.
Cheers for all the suggestions guys, just had 30 minutes there and confirmed I wasn't missing anything, I just can't reach the crimp off that foothold. Looks like I'll just have to continue slapping straight up, I'm sure I'll stick it sooner or later.
Damn Nature and its inconsiderate timing! Plus its going to pump a tonnes more CO2 into the atmosphere which is not what the earth needs at the moment. Why can't the geophysicisits have done something about this already and capped all volcanoes so that we can control the release of pressure from the earths core and use it effectively. :P
I blame the scientists. May as well cut their funding the useless twats.
Take the month's cash, and then live the dream on the ropes. You know it makes sense ;)
Fucking Aberdeen fucking sea-cliffs >:( Here I am feeling pretty much in prime trad condition and once more I get shut down so hard I might as well hibernate for the next decade ??? Managed to fail on not one not two but three easy warm-up routes
I was thinking about ....problems on sector 4 at Broughton . Any thoughts?
Well, you have been doing a lot of typing. :shrug:
Do we really want any further details. I for one, don't want to know.
Saw a guy at Joe's Valley ... his girlfriend was a full munter ... :lol:
A word of warning to me though, as I am about to embark on bouldering wall manufacture, and not known for being "good with tools".
Its just above the first joint. I haven't had a look since I did it so I don't know how much is left. Stitches come out on Tuesday so I might look then...
Good luck with the thumb mate - Tommy C proves suffice inspiration - hero!
Had a proper NNFN day myself:
So two A2 pulleys have gone, along with both elbows showing signs of tendonitis (both due to a lot of time in the woody and pretty new to bouldering).
Got food poisoning.
My Disco's brakes failed on me due to wheel bearings - then the b*tard wouldn't even start...new d cap, plugs and leads needed...this also means I missed two days of work - whereby I didn't get paid!
NNFN!
I managed to cut off the top of my right hand thumb with a circular saw on saturday evening..... so would welcome any stories anyone has come across where climbers lose parts of body and come back stronger, fitter better etc...or even can just climb again OK
I managed to cut off the top of my right hand thumb with a circular saw on saturday evening. The bone was too badly damaged for it to be sewn back on so its gone :(
Any pictures ?I still haven't looked properly myself yet.
Do you really want me to post pics ? I don't think it will look very nice TBH
Hope your injuries are coming along alrightCheers - I think they are slowly.
[Its probable that at the end of next week I can start changing my own dressing which will mean that Shark gets his wish and can see some pics of my stub.
Mind you I'll probably be massive by then with baby soft skin and no upper body muscle.
Mind you I'll probably be massive by then with baby soft skin and no upper body muscle.
You should join me in the "I can't climb due to injuries but am going to thrash the beastmaker and come back stronger :thumbsup: , but with even less technique ::) " club. It's great fun... :whistle:
Shitter dude, hope you like soup!
A wired jaw would certainly reverse the current waistline trend. Err...I mean, I'm training heavy. ;)
P.S. You going to have to do something pretty stupid for climbing to be a contact sport in the cheek area :o
Got bundled surfing at Croyde this morning (being too casual and complacent!), board in the face = fractured cheek bone. Can't chew food because of the pain, operation to push it back into place a week today, probably followed by more days of soup eating ::)
6 weeks after that before I'm allowed to do contact sports (don't think climbing is a contact sport? ;))
Mind you I'll probably be massive by then with baby soft skin and no upper body muscle.
You should join me in the "I can't climb due to injuries but am going to thrash the beastmaker and come back stronger :thumbsup: , but with even less technique ::) " club. It's great fun... :whistle:
Sounds like a great plan and I'll probably, also, be waffa thin due to my new found eating disorder :great:
That's the fella, deffo looks like an instrument of pain! Hope they don't leave it in there though!
you get one of these in your face
http://www.ortho.in/images/maxillofacial-implants-instruments/rowe-zygomatic-elevato.jpg (http://www.ortho.in/images/maxillofacial-implants-instruments/rowe-zygomatic-elevato.jpg)
that'll sort you out.
doesnt hurt too much ( apparently)
Only just got round to posting this.
NNFN! :'(
Managed to slice my hand up whilst woodcarving last week... will be at least a few weeks before I can fully weight it, and because of where it is it's naturally splitting... :wall:
(http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4099/4791620984_7bdaa2567e.jpg)
there's over granulation at the end. Apparently this is when the underlying tissue grows back more quickly than the skin can grow over the wound
Here's a pretty gruesome pic of how it looked this am which I took on my phone whilst waiting for the doc.
I've tagged it NSFW just cos some people might not want to look at it - in fact no-one might apart from SharkNSFW :
Looks like you've got a pair of tiny testicles on the end of your stump. Is it good luck to stroke them ?
Your stump is still bigger than my thumb!Really Dylan ? Have you had an accident as well ( I genuinely don't know)
Tripped up after a few :beer1: on Sunday afternoon and face planted :wall: ! Two stitches above my left eye, nasty grazes on the Lhs of my face and L shouder, scrapes on both hands. Lots of other minor aches. On the bright side I don't have to worry about losing my looks...
Tripped up after a few :beer1: on Sunday afternoon and face planted :wall: ! Two stitches above my left eye, nasty grazes on the Lhs of my face and L shouder, scrapes on both hands. Lots of other minor aches. On the bright side I don't have to worry about losing my looks...
Tripped up after a few :beer1: on Sunday afternoon and face planted :wall: ! Two stitches above my left eye, nasty grazes on the Lhs of my face and L shouder, scrapes on both hands. Lots of other minor aches. On the bright side I don't have to worry about losing my looks...
That's the beauty of gene's, isn't it dad? ;) ;D
How can you mistake a pulled inter costal with pleurisy by the way??????
b) I only breathe with the top of my chest.
b) I only breathe with the top of my chest.
Guess what form of exercise can help with that? :)
Quote from: SA Chris on Today at 08:03:10 pm
Quote from: Dolly on Today at 04:33:03 pm
b) I only breathe with the top of my chest.
Guess what form of exercise can help with that? :)
Campussing! :P
QuoteQuote from: SA Chris on Today at 08:03:10 pm
Quote from: Dolly on Today at 04:33:03 pm
b) I only breathe with the top of my chest.
Guess what form of exercise can help with that? :)
Campussing! :P
OMG I think he means the Y word :o
Does that mean I'll become even weaker than I am ATM ?
at the airport at 5:15am and the flight is canceled! Seems im not going to china this week. Still, it is/was a work trip, so could be worse...
though the nice lady behind the desk who spent 5.5 hrs rebooking people was very nice...
though the nice lady behind the desk who spent 5.5 hrs rebooking people was very nice...
People who do jobs like that are amazingly good at biting their tongue, there's a good reason I don't work in customer services, because most people would be seeing (http://themixingbowl.org/static/img/smilies/thefinger.gif)
I guess the long stayers are good at it, but the low skill crowd guidance peeps are just in it cos its a job near where they live with flexible hours, I assume.
I found a new basic job today that sets a standard for no skills employment: Keeping two queues seperate and advising people which queue was the one for them. That is a basic job. Even more amazingly, over the course of an hour I watched somebody who couldn't even do this job well! Amazing low skill levels on show.
I was a long time outdoor shop drone and I actually am really good at sorting people out, being helpful and that. I used to take particular pleasure in being really especially nice and helpful to rude tosspots. Passed the time I guess.
dont get a job in NHS management, you are over qualified... seriously.
I found a new basic job todayI don't mean I found a job for my self to actually do. I found a job to write up in my book of shit jobs is what I ment.
or the really over weight people holding signs pointing the direction to mcdonalds, just makes you ill
or the really over weight people holding signs pointing the direction to mcdonalds, just makes you ill, unless you're fiend.
they've deleted all my saved levels so I have to start all over again.
they wont get far, it's got no pedals.
they wont get far, it's got no pedals.
they wont get far, it's got no pedals.
Unfortunately it had my mates pedals attached to it :lol:
On the bright side, should be getting a tidy sum from the insurance so will be able to :alky: my sorrows in to submission.
the cunts who are supposed to buying our house have fucked us off to buy another across the village.
THE BASTARDS.
You doing anything else to get rid of it, diet wise etc?
how long does it take for things to ease back again?
You doing anything else to get rid of it, diet wise etc?
Lost a stone and a half since the last gout session. Drinking more moderately than at any time since I started climbing. Stopped taking Allopurinol a while back and uric acid levels have stayed low.
hey ho we all havebadgrit HVS days.
The sun is setting and its 4:30pm.
Goodbye evenings at the crag.. see you in the spring...
Almscliffe claimed my right ankle as a trophy on Saturday afternoon. Hospital doesn't "think" I've broken anything and suspects I've wankered the ligaments (my words not theirs) but as its ridiculously swollen they can't really be sure, either way it looks like a fat old diabetic American's ankle and I won't be climbing for a while. :furious:
NNFN (or Complete Utter Nonsensical Twaddle)
Almscliffe claimed my right ankle as a trophy on Saturday afternoon. Hospital doesn't "think" I've broken anything and suspects I've wankered the ligaments (my words not theirs) but as its ridiculously swollen they can't really be sure, either way it looks like a fat old diabetic American's ankle and I won't be climbing for a while. :furious:
NNFN (or Complete Utter Nonsensical Twaddle)
Thats a bitch... time to get working on those pullups! What problem did she punish you on?
I've got a parents evening in Southport next Wednesday and Big Ron is doing his talk in Liverpool at the same time NNFN :wall: :wall: :wall: :furious: :furious: :furious: >:(
Guess it's the price you pay for putting on a little extra pud! ;D
busy watching take that on youtube at the moment
:agree:busy watching take that on youtube at the moment
That deserves a NNFN post in its own right :-\
im sure your finger will be ok,shall head out later if one fancies it
busy watching take that on youtube at the moment
im sure your finger will be ok,shall head out later if one fancies it
busy watching take that on youtube at the moment
I have to agree, their latest material is pretty listenable :-*
im sure your finger will be ok,shall head out later if one fancies it
busy watching take that on youtube at the moment
I have to agree, their latest material is pretty listenable :-*
i thought they were fucking brilliant on children in need.
i missed out on them first time around as i was into my heavy metal phase.
im only recapturing a long gone youth
After having a shitload of time off climbing to bring up my kids :boohoo: and doing fuck all of any use to man or beast, I got back in the saddle and today fucked off to Longridge.
Just before I left the house, I saw on the longridge site the epitaph "where the strong come to get stronger and the weak get spanked".
I'll consider myself spanked.
Must try harder.....
,I got back in the saddle
so fucking what if i like a bit of take thatim sure your finger will be ok,shall head out later if one fancies it
busy watching take that on youtube at the moment
I have to agree, their latest material is pretty listenable :-*
i thought they were fucking brilliant on children in need.
i missed out on them first time around as i was into my heavy metal phase.
im only recapturing a long gone youth
Oh dear first x-factor and now take that? I thought you were hoping for the end of manufactured bands etc?
NNFN!
I think this picture says it all. Fell off the other day on the purple circuit ironically.
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=478656830937&set=a.478656770937.258687.502480937 (http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=478656830937&set=a.478656770937.258687.502480937)
There are hundreds of Lee Andersons, which one is you so I can friend you??
Dickhead.
(http://surferjerry.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/horse-stuck-in-tree.jpg)
say hi to your mum for me.
Bad News (http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-1341938/Ice-climber-plunges-death-frozen-Yorkshire-Dales-waterfall.html)
The house we want to buy has come up with major work needing doing likely to cost thousands...
probably going to pull out, losing search and survey fees, NNFN!!!
to be fair there are worse NNFNs...better to lose now than sink money into a black hole...
The house we want to buy has come up with major work needing doing likely to cost thousands...
probably going to pull out, losing search and survey fees, NNFN!!!
to be fair there are worse NNFNs...better to lose now than sink money into a black hole...
If you want to take the work on you can always get quotes and knock the money off??
Current thinking is that a nice uncomplicated finished house with a biggish flat garden for child to have a swing and a run around in is a better option. It certainly seems I'd have less stress in the next 6 months!! :shrug: :-\
a nice uncomplicated finished house with a biggish flat garden for child to have a swing and a run around
It's a shame because the house is perfect.
It's a shame because the house is perfect.
Souds pretty fucking far from perfect to me!
like i give a fuck about that...
I think he misunderstood your crap pun.
If it wasn't a crap pun, why do you think there is a stigma attached to anyone needing corrections to their vision?
I think he misunderstood your crap pun.
Pun was unintentional (only realised after writing it, opted to leave it in though), but if fatdoc isn't worried about cost or having to wear glasses why is it a NNFN?
At least you can still walk/cycle/do whatever the fuck you want for a good few years yet. Wait till you're body starts completely giving up on you/you lose your marbles, then you'll have something to....cheese on toast.;D ;D
You bunch of four eyed twats ;)
Zimmer frame next... :)
I'll get the inconto pants in now, slackers.. you wanna share on a bulk order mate?
I'm getting my motorised wheelchair on order now before the rush.
I'm recovering from a busted A2, about 2 months into a 3 month healing process looks like.
Sacro-iliac seized up whilst I was doing weights instead, so I've been in pain since Xmas gradually improving under a rather charming but expensive lady physio, still hurts when seated though.
Went to the wall today, Nike Air was asking after my injury -all going swimmingly I said.... had to stop later due to a nasty sharp pain in the back of the elbow, like a hot needle into the bursa. Hasn't improved since, and can only be a tear to the triceps tendon over the bursa. FFS!
I got A2,
swimming
And hot needles
... so pool party somewhere down south...
reach for the lasers.. i think I can see them
sweeeet
Oh, and my house (for sale) had a major flood off the rising main over Xmas while we were away, ££££££££££S of damage - in between exchange and completion (now delayed). I kid you not.
Welcome to 2011 :'( :'(
Plus Fatdoc won't be sympathetic cos he won't be able to read the post. Bugger.
Look on the bright side, if glasses mean you're old, some folk have been old from a very young age.(http://www.climbing.com/photo/image/BarcelonaSpain-LCWC-2009/Adam%20Ondra.jpg)
Look on the bright side, if glass mean you'rs old, some folk have been old from a very young age.what use are they to the old twat.....
Un spite of what Jasper says, they are a bit of a hassle.
You could always reach for the lasers...
Fatdoc's so old and spazzed he can't even use the quote funtion. Or maybe he can't actually see that he's done it wrong the blind twat.
I'd just top myself now if I were you mate.
@ Dr T: c'mon, I'd exchange 7b in the forest with 6b+ on plastic every given day!!!
Jr T has chicken pox :(and now I have the vomits..
At least they should be clear by Font....
Just hope my immune system remembers how to fight it off.
Poof!
I've done that before. Really really annoying.don't you work from home?
Where do I start?
Put it this way, landing a book contract today and climbing three days out of the last five don't even begin to even the balance.
Car's buggered..... :wall: :'( :slap: :furious:oh I forgot so is the boiler....
Car's buggered..... :wall: :'( :slap: :furious:oh I forgot so is the boiler....
:furious: :furious: :furious: :furious: :furious: :furious: :furious: :furious:
Jeez, some people just like to moan ;):guilty:
Where do I start?Sounds shitty Andy, hope everyone's okay
Put it this way, landing a book contract today and climbing three days out of the last five don't even begin to even the balance.
my doc says im a bit unusual but because one of my kidneys doesnt work to well im not getting rid of enough uric acid which is then crystallizing in my joints. most people get it in there toes or feet but ive had it in my ankles, knees and now pretty sure my back(feels the same). usually stays under control if i drink plenty of water and watch my diet but been a bit lazy last few weeks.
Blimey Lore, that's, warm! How about 2 am with a lamp? T shirt weather?T shirt???
T shirt???
the totty is out at full power, mini shorties and tops... which is a YYFY by the way...
DONT do what my house mate did during finals and do a load of speed and stay up all night revising - then to freeze up in the exam.
just need to be careful when chopping chillis.:lol:
Is that outdoors? WTF where they thinking?
:furious:Hard luck mate. Have been there and know how it feels.
Just finished sticking 2 of my fingers back together after chopping about 3/4 of the way through both of them! Guess I'll just have to get good at climbing on the back 2 on my left hand!
Have cut through index and middle fingers about 1.5-2cm from the finger tips and, like I mentioned, about 3/4 of the way through both of them.
Didn't go to the docs as they seemed to hold together quite well after half an hour of pressure
WTF! you are mental. Have you cut throught the bone?
WTF! you are mental. Have you cut throught the bone?
Thanks all for your concern
I don't know how but no, I don't seem to have gone through the bone! The cut took something of a diagonal line but it is just 1mm or so away from my finger nail on one side.
It honestly has stuck back in very neat fashion and despite being quite numb to start with feeling has returned to both fingertips. They are a little swollen but not an unhealthy colour. Luckily my mrs is a vet and insisted on it being cleaned up properly to avoid infection.
Bizarrely I'm a little surprised at everyones reaction as going to A&E seemed excessive - my main concern was that I'd planned to go climbing that afternoon and now couldn't, but tales of fingers going black have worried me to the extent that maybe I will go and see what my GP thinks just in case!
Sounds like a bit of brain power could have been applied.
Can you get a battery powered dremel to tidy it up?
just got really important dissertation marks through. Not good news.
just got really important dissertation marks through. Not good news.
Does this influence the overall degree mark? If it is any consolation, the boss of a major London hospital physio. department recently told me "of course we don't look at the degree grade - we go on personal statement and interview".
just got really important dissertation marks through. Not good news.
Frustrating when input ≠ output (as assessed).
Does this influence the overall degree mark? If it is any consolation, the boss of a major London hospital physio. department recently told me "of course we don't look at the degree grade - we go on personal statement and interview".
Gutted tom, a savage turn, however give it a week and you could practice finger locks
almost ran over a gull' today missed by about 6 inches..
Report it
http://www.potholes.co.uk/users/login (http://www.potholes.co.uk/users/login)
New hey road at the first lay by on the left as you are heading past nont sarahs towards the parking for buckstones.
I guess you are talking about the ones in this thread? http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,9440.msg190339.html#msg190339 (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,9440.msg190339.html#msg190339)New hey road at the first lay by on the left as you are heading past nont sarahs towards the parking for buckstones.As an aside, there's some lovely roof problems on the prow at Buckstones, if you haven't done them already.
Yes, nice venue for easier stuff too.
Merrily riding down the Otley Road when some tit in his van turns left across the cycle lane. Slammed on the brakes but not enough time to stop completely. Not sure exactly what happened but I caught most of the impact on my lower ribs and ended up on the ground in front of the van. Mainly just got the wind knocked out of me but now have a very tender right hand side, just in time for peak crushing season :wall:
Told the guy to check his mirrors in future; he claimed he did. Well I didn't just appear out of thin air did I?
What I have been told is you won't get a new bike. i.e. if your bike is 2 years old you will get the replacement value of a 2 year old bike.
What you have to hope is what you get for the personal injury bit will add up to the cost of a new bike.
Not bouldering related, but the freezer died so I've lost my pre-prepped curry ingredient store. All my frozen Dorset Nagas, Scotch Bonnets, Naga Morich, and all the fresh herbs and galangal etc etc. Gutted. :'(That sounds climbing related to me..
"doing a Sloper"
Moved more towards Vin Blanc nowadays.
Just got my uni application declined by Sheffield Hallam. Really beginning to worry I might end up somewhere flat and shit if I get in at all.Unlucky man. What you wanting to do?
Just got my uni application declined by Sheffield Hallam. Really beginning to worry I might end up somewhere flat and shit if I get in at all.Unlucky man. What you wanting to do?
Just got my uni application declined by Sheffield Hallam. Really beginning to worry I might end up somewhere flat and shit if I get in at all.Unlucky man. What you wanting to do?
And any idea why you were declined?
Applied for physiotherapy, which I know is very competative especially at Sheffield. I dont think its grades as mine are pretty good. Im a mature student doing an access course as well which may work against me. Im going to email them and see what details they give me.
... its a buyers market at the moment, many universities are lying on their backs legs apart at the moment...
By academic reference to you mean reference from my tutor?
Quite a few people read my personal statement and said it was pretty good. Stupidly I didnt get a physio to look at it even though I know a few.
It could very well be the work experience, im currently doing some which lasts a few weeks ago till I go to uni. It does cover a lot of different areas and is nothing to do with sport which to be honest is not the area I want to go into. BUT it hadnt started when my personal statement was sent. SO I may in fact be buggered.
Another uni contacted me asking for more details which I have given them including a lot more details about the work experience im doing. Do you think that was just a formality or do that actually mean they are considering me?
phone up the department Seb and ask to speak to the admissions officer. It'll probably be an academic working there.
do take the other university contacting you as positive (really, they are not going to do that without a reason).
cripes... those grades would have got u into med school in 1987..
[/quote
mmmmmm I feel there is an obvious reply to that being a nurse but that might be related to the amount of red wine I've drunk so for once I'll let it go. :lol:
cripes... those grades would have got u into med school in 1987... not that I'm advocating that as a choice... just scares the shit out of me what me kids will have to achieve in any walk of life..
cripes... those grades would have got u into med school in 1987... not that I'm advocating that as a choice... just scares the shit out of me what me kids will have to achieve in any walk of life..
as Wayne Gretski said "you miss 100% of the shits you dont take".
as Wayne Gretski said "you miss 100% of the shits you dont take".
:lol: That's got to be a typo, shirley?
I did think it odd that he was timing his rests
I did think it odd that he was timing his rests
Got one of those 5am phone calls that you know isn't good news before you answer it. My friend's first words were "I hope you have insurance". So: my house in Squamish is badly flooded thanks to a burst frozen pipe and I am on a flight to Vancouver tonight to check out the damage, meet loss adjusters, etc, etc. One tiny silver lining is that I might be able to sneak a few hours up at Whistler where there appears to be plenty of snow.
:furious:
Shark carried me most of the way on his back. The others came back after dumping the kit and helped Shark move me.
I once shared the carrying out of an injured friend of mine (well over 13 stone 'of muscle', so he claims) from Cul de Chien with a super competitive Scottish buddy. As I had first carry, I employed the piggyback method and laboured all the way up the hill through the sea of sand whilst trying to be gentle and smooth to avoid causing further trauma to my mates broken ankle. As we reached and passed the 'halfway back to the bloody car-park' point, due to the fact that I was imminently about to collapse, I finally gave in and handed over the carrying duties to Jock the Cock, who pointed out that I would have had an easier time had I removed my injured friends laden rucksack from his back before I'd picked him up.:D
:furious:
Bastard. How could they get it so wrong!? :spank: :chair:
Is that directly from the fall on Saturday or is that from previous damage or a combination ?
Is that directly from the fall on Saturday or is that from previous damage or a combination ?the previous bone damage was merely a theory put forward by Minor Injustices to fit in with their other beliefs
get well soon. see a specialist
:agree:get well soon. see a specialist
glad you heeded the advice.
fingers crossed for you buddy - hope it gets sorted ASAP.
In reply to jasper - A&E or minor injuries is essentially a triage service, if they see someone with a cold then they can discharge with impunity, but complex fractures or the like its better to see someone who knows what they are talking about. I spend half my life dispelling myths and rumours that have been uttered as gospel by A and E, ambulance technicians, junior doctors, consultants in other specialties, GPs etc. (how does it feel from my ivory tower - fucking shit)
There is a reason the spcialist knows what they are talking about is because that is all they do, they've done >5 years in specialist training on top of their basic training (4years +5years at medical school) and most likely an md or a phd. A junior doctor in A and E or a nurse practioner in minor injuries will have a fraction of the knowledge, they are there to make sure you don't die, sort out your pain and facilitate a smooth journey toward someone who knows what they are talking about.
and what fatdoc said - these ankle injuries can be a twat to diagnose and unless the x-ray is barn door then they will often need to do a CT
I weighed myself this morning at 95kg - that's without clothes, coat, shoes.
I weighed myself this morning at 95kg - that's without clothes, coat, shoes.
I'm trying to get rid of the Borat like image of Shark carrying you without clothes or coat on.
We're supposed to be flying to Tenerife on Friday morning. Mrs S just called to say it looks as if Raf may have chickenpox.
I don't believe it.
No way you can just apply make-up to cover the pox and take him anyway? Seriously, that sucks nuts though...
make sure all yr kids get it this time, may as well have em all to blame ;)
keeping it topped up has cost me about £40 so far. :unsure:
After trying hard to fight off a shitty headcold for about a week, yesterday my voice disappeared. Still not back. Anyone know if it will clear up by itself, or do I need a course of antibiotics now?
At least you can all still go away unlike last time.
Bad news. At least she can still do walk ins, but won't be much good spotting!
I don't want her to share the driving. I'm looking forward to it. ;)Bad news. At least she can still do walk ins, but won't be much good spotting!
Going with my Mum and her husband who also climbs so that wont be such a problem.
Bad luck Paul. Other irons in the fire though?
Ask for feedback - official and unofficial... all experience - and competition for even shortlisting is intense nowadays from what I look at..
Ask for feedback - official and unofficial... all experience - and competition for even shortlisting is intense nowadays from what I look at..
Too true - I recently failed to get shortlisted for a job I was specifically invited to apply for by people who know me and my work very well. They just received a stellar field and I lost out (they shortlisted three, I was fourth).
I wouldn't despair Paul, you say if anyone would take a punt on you it would be that panel, but it sounds as though there was just a candidate closer to the required spec. Its one of the oddities of the academic world; fields are small, people know each other, favours are done sometimes but it can be very pragmatic and unsentimental and job requirements extremely specific. Doesn't mean a panel that knows you much less well won't see you as what they need. Can be good to get out from supervisors coat-tails too.
Doesn't mean it isn't disappointing of course.
Ask for feedback - official and unofficial... all experience - and competition for even shortlisting is intense nowadays from what I look at..
Too true - I recently failed to get shortlisted for a job I was specifically invited to apply for by people who know me and my work very well. They just received a stellar field and I lost out (they shortlisted three, I was fourth).
I wouldn't despair Paul, you say if anyone would take a punt on you it would be that panel, but it sounds as though there was just a candidate closer to the required spec. Its one of the oddities of the academic world; fields are small, people know each other, favours are done sometimes but it can be very pragmatic and unsentimental and job requirements extremely specific. Doesn't mean a panel that knows you much less well won't see you as what they need. Can be good to get out from supervisors coat-tails too.
Doesn't mean it isn't disappointing of course.
NFN..., stuck in bed for the third day after doing something freaky to my back on friday. For some reason when i'm laying flat on my back it feels like my legs are crossed I go to move them and realise they are both straight. and for some reason my right knee hurts like hell as well as my back.
went to the roof today, and found the crucial hold - the pinch - on the roof direct, modified........there are some poor souls out there.
there no way she going get in with the horsey set
went to the roof today, and found the crucial hold - the pinch - on the roof direct, modified........there are some poor souls out there.
Kind of you to call them poor souls, I would opt for Cunts.
Gutted for you.
6 am, 29 degrees?
Toady, some cunt selling Gas/Electric stopped me and penciled me in as a dead ringer for Kenny Everett :(
were you wearing a fucking huge pair of foam hands?
Bugger! But only 2000 words. Are all Nature articles that long? And 4000 words, that is some review. Nothing constructive at all?
I've collected some classic reviews the last few months, e.g. "pseudo-intellectual bullshit". Another recommended we "employ a copy editor as English clearly isn't your first language" (knowing full well it is), and more. Even better, all of these went on to be accepted.
Do you not get to review his review?
Several stiff gins.
What confuses me is that every academic has experienced this yet I often hear others relishing relaying stories where they've rejected this and that (I'm not suggesting this is you TomTom).
TomTom - you're perfectly within your rights to request a second opinion on the article, although to be honest, if it's nature, the replacement referee will have to fucking love it for it to get through, as they normally reject articles if the referee is even lukewarm about it.
Don't give up yet.
On a related note I've been asked to author a chapter in the new Oxford handbook for surgeons... Slightly scared, honoured and I'm putting aside 100 hrs for 2000 words, on a subject I'm well placed to write on... U academics out there... Reasonable time consideration?
R&R, not a bad result Tomtom, was obviously worth trying.
Stallioni told me you love fucking cars.
Like a Volvo with no personality.
Different in so far as if you can do 4 moves on it you are happy?
It's harder but still doable? This should be in YYFY Lore! ;)Ahah, I was about to post it there!!!
Disclaimer:I'm an idiot
even more insentive to get stronger shirley?
Disclaimer; This isn't going to help...and I am also partial to the occasional bout of idiocy, so went I wiped out snowboarding with a camera in my chest pocket, I cracked a rib or two. Or I probably cracked a rib. After several weeks of not being able to sneeze, cough, laugh, breath deeply without severe pain I went to A& E where they said I had probably just bruised them. But if I had broken them the treatment is the same they just make months not weeks to get better.Disclaimer:I'm an idiot
That's OK cos so am i :great:
Feeling a little less pissed off today and may have a quick hang off the BM later to see what hurts and where and then i can start to test it out every couple of days. I believe in working around injuries not stopping everything but ribs seems to be quite limiting. I can't run, do core or anything.
Anyway, less whinging. It can only get better from here.
Good to know it may not be too long term so thanks for that
so went I wiped out snowboarding with a camera
poor at typing on phone I am. ;)
so went I wiped out snowboarding with a camera
Obi-Wan or Yoda?
Harder move to execute, or harder move to perform?
I guess (and this being no slight on you Ali) this may be a product of shitty weather resulting in spending too much time indoors and occasionally snatching a few dry hours working on ticking hard problems, rather than getting out on the rock and onsighting (or attempting to onsight) routes at your limit.
Mileage on any rock type, onsight, close enough for weekday trips in the E3/E4 range is....well...not easy to find!
I am - November 24th, Chamonix. :punk:
Part of the reason why I'm jumping on routes midweek that I've been saving for the onsight for a while...time is running out!
I am - November 24th, Chamonix. :punk:
I am - November 24th, Chamonix. :punk:
Part of the reason why I'm jumping on routes midweek that I've been saving for the onsight for a while...time is running out!
I've developed a new kick ass fingerboard regime for train over the next few weeks :)PM me with that shit ;)
Putting the bins out the other night, jumped a low wall to avoid a locked gate, rolled ankle, #5th right metatarsal.
Can't work for 6 weeks, no climbing, running, biking.....
perhaps this is the opportunity to achieve life imperatives such as being able to lock off on one arm, getting really good on shit pockets, and reading ulysses. :coffee:
(hey dave, tell me the gig was shit to cheer me up even though I know it wont have been)Don't worry, it was was just two hours of total cock (http://www.richardherring.com/). ;D
Day 6 and going stir crazy.
I've had 1 solid BM (and I don't mean Beastmaker) since coming back from Azerbaijan 9 days ago. Doctor's appointment tomorrow. Gotta love the Baku Belly...
:shit: :worms:
No, should I be?
1/2 to whole bottle of whiskey in a session used to be our cure for Bucharesti Belly..
1/2 to whole bottle of whiskey in a session used to be our cure for Bucharesti Belly..
This seems like a bit of YYFY :)
Apparently it's not work that's blocked it, it's the office buildings themselves. What's a proxy?
Did anyone see the news footage of llanberis flooded? Looked bad... Could see Petes eats in the background I think...
NNFN non-displaced fracture to left index finger whilst belyaing (& holding a fall) yesterday. >:(
NNFN non-displaced fracture to left index finger whilst belyaing (& holding a fall) yesterday. >:(
Sorry to hear that but, given the size of the rock and distance it fell, be thankful you still have all 5 digits and all 4 limbs still attached.
Could have been worse...
North Cliffs Failure - Amazing Cliff Collapse caught on Camera! (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZVjr4mii3cE#)
:( chin up, it could be worse - you could be working as the NRA's press officer..
Bah Fucking Humbug.
AAAAAAAAAAARGH.
Sounds like the type of music you listen to.
MRI v useful.. But it's all in the symptoms... Sound like u are gettin better! If not.. MRI for sure...
I test drove these £15 decathlog beauties at the Cliff yesterday. 10/10. My feet were toasty - whilst Nai and 3T had to go for periodic runs to warm their feet up - I was able to just slob in toasty toed luxury (its all relative on a windy day at the cliff..)
(http://pbs.twimg.com/media/A9iq1jiCEAAtWHB.jpg:large)
Sounds like a YYFY compared to my day in an office.
Four weeks away from my first climbing trip in over 2 years and something hurts after the wall today. :furious:
More specifically, I have a little sore patch just down from crease in ring finger PIP joint and off to the side, so not quite classic A2 pulley area but damn near it. It hurts to touch, but did another problem before stopping- no pain while climbing (Broughton) :-\ :-\
Anyone experienced anything similar? And how long before it mended if so? Thanks!
Crank. Pop. Fuck...
Four weeks away from my first climbing trip in over 2 years and something hurts after the wall today. :furious:
More specifically, I have a little sore patch just down from crease in ring finger PIP joint and off to the side, so not quite classic A2 pulley area but damn near it. It hurts to touch, but did another problem before stopping- no pain while climbing (Broughton) :-\ :-\
Anyone experienced anything similar? And how long before it mended if so? Thanks!
Same here - a tweak a few weeks out from a trip. It's happened before though....
Crank. Pop. Fuck...
An adult breakfast cereal?
Four weeks away from my first climbing trip in over 2 years and something hurts after the wall today. :furious:
More specifically, I have a little sore patch just down from crease in ring finger PIP joint and off to the side, so not quite classic A2 pulley area but damn near it. It hurts to touch, but did another problem before stopping- no pain while climbing (Broughton) :-\ :-\
Anyone experienced anything similar? And how long before it mended if so? Thanks!
You've still got time to get one in person... (a major pain in the arse I know.. but thinking positive etc..)
Can't find my fucking passport and am due to fly to Malaga on weds. :wall:
One place left to look when I get home but I'm not hopeful.
Can't find my fucking passport and am due to fly to Malaga on weds. :wall:
One place left to look when I get home but I'm not hopeful.
I spent an hour looking for a receipt this morning without success. Wife came home, I mentioned it to her and a minute later it was handed over, recovered from the place she put it that I knew nothing about. Might be worth asking someone more organised than yourself ;)
I know I'm likely to get punched for asking, but when did you last have it?
I know this is probably a bit late and not particularly useful, but scan the crucial pages of your passport, license and any travel docs and email them to your hotmail address (or leave them in a dropbox), then you have instant access to copies any time.
No. They wont let you out of the country without it now.. you used to be able to blag it with a driving licence getting out of the UK but not now..
You've still got time to get one in person... (a major pain in the arse I know.. but thinking positive etc..)
:goodidea:
Quick google last night suggested that wasnt an option but I see now it can be done.
:2thumbsup:
Pretty sure I got mine done in a day at L'pool. Hardest part was getting parked near passport office? Went to The Breck in the meantime....
Pretty sure I got mine done in a day at L'pool. Hardest part was getting parked near passport office? Went to The Breck in the meantime....
Passport office 5 mins from the Hangar too. Shark, am about in Liverpool tomorrow if logistical support needed.
I have a copy of my passport but that can't be valid for flying with can it ?
A 234mile round trip and £128 for something that's probably lurking somewhere 30seconds from where I'm sitting. How did the world get to be this way?Have you seen it since you moved?
A 234mile round trip and £128 for something that's probably lurking somewhere 30seconds from where I'm sitting. How did the world get to be this way?Have you seen it since you moved?
Did this trip to Swansea happen in this car or the old one?
Have you found the rest of the family's passports?
A 234mile round trip and £128 for something that's probably lurking somewhere 30seconds from where I'm sitting. How did the world get to be this way?Have you seen it since you moved?Yes (90% sure)
Did this trip to Swansea happen in this car or the old one? New one
Have you found the rest of the family's passports? Yes
I've some useful passport advice here from dealing with Students who lose their passports while abroad (from our field trips) about getting back without a passport. In the Spanish airport (where its happened to us at ie student says errr.. left my passport at the Hotel) importantly say you've lost your passport at the airport. This means its dealt with in the airport, by the airport police otherwise they will bat you on to external police and you'll have to find the counsul etc.. (and probably miss your flight). This seems to be a really important distinction about how its dealt with and makes a big difference (according to the holiday rep(s) we've dealt with about this...). We always keep a photocopy of the passport photo page of the students who go, but while that helps, they really want to see some photo ID (driving licence) to let you out of the country (spain again). I tihnk this is also really important for the security of matching the passenger to the ID etc.. for the flight. Once landed in the UK - assuming you have photo ID, and dont look dodgy - it seems to take about 30-40 min of phone calls, form filling etc.. and then they let you back in..
I've some useful passport advice here from dealing with Students who lose their passports while abroad (from our field trips) about getting back without a passport. In the Spanish airport (where its happened to us at ie student says errr.. left my passport at the Hotel) importantly say you've lost your passport at the airport. This means its dealt with in the airport, by the airport police otherwise they will bat you on to external police and you'll have to find the counsul etc.. (and probably miss your flight). This seems to be a really important distinction about how its dealt with and makes a big difference (according to the holiday rep(s) we've dealt with about this...). We always keep a photocopy of the passport photo page of the students who go, but while that helps, they really want to see some photo ID (driving licence) to let you out of the country (spain again). I tihnk this is also really important for the security of matching the passenger to the ID etc.. for the flight. Once landed in the UK - assuming you have photo ID, and dont look dodgy - it seems to take about 30-40 min of phone calls, form filling etc.. and then they let you back in..
Recent direct personal experience suggests none of this works. No passport meant no flight. I had photo ID and reported the loss to the airport police first. Spent two extra days in Tenerife waiting for the consulate to open.
Good luck shark - of course you should go. If you take multiple flights a year for decades eventually something of this nature is bound to happen (ask Toby about his passport incident some time). Just amortize the debt over all those other flights. Or something.
Good luck shark - of course you should go. If you take multiple flights a year for decades eventually something of this nature is bound to happen (ask Toby about his passport incident some time). Just amortize the debt over all those other flights. Or something.
Just smash the eastside trav instead
Just smash the eastside trav instead
Fucked off with that too
Think I will just go and crawl under a stone for a while and wallow in self-pity
Maybe my priorities are wrong but I'm not going.
There are these things called climbing walls. Sort of like a crag, but made of plywood and plastic and generally at least 99% shitter than Almscliff.
Jeez Caleb, you aren't having much luck in recent times!You're not wrong! Luckily,it seems the injured digit is fixing up pretty quickly...bring on the rematch!
they must be still in it.
Heh. Rather embarrassingly, the only reason my wife had my keys in the first place was because *she* had got locked out of the house this morning, and come into work to borrow mine. I suspect we're both galloping towards senile dementia.
Just embarking the most madcap project of my life, with friends arriving to stay tonight, the kids beginning Easter holidays on thurs, My other half full of tonsillitis, one child with tonsils out a week ago and a four year old girl following Mummy with the tonsillitis. After the sewers blocking yesterday and me spending the afternoon with the drain rods...
I woke up this morning at 5am exploding from both ends...
Haven't stopped yet.
Oh how I love the Noro virus.
Grr.. just had the numbing email notification that a Nature submission I lead authored has been rejected.
One good review, but the other reviewer was "the worst person it could have gone to". They spent 4000 words bitterly tearing us apart (we only had 2000 for the fecking article itself). My publising nemesis has struck again and prevented a possible career high.
Tits^10.
Grr.. just had the numbing email notification that a Nature submission I lead authored has been rejected.
One good review, but the other reviewer was "the worst person it could have gone to". They spent 4000 words bitterly tearing us apart (we only had 2000 for the fecking article itself). My publising nemesis has struck again and prevented a possible career high.
Tits^10.
Back to revisit an old one I'm afraid... following the above we managed to haggle to make changes and re-submit for re-review.. 4000 words of supp material later and 6 months work... leading to it being resubmitted AND...
we just had the 'Dear John' f*ck off letter from the Editor...
Bah. Reformat and re-submit... yadayadayada...
Last week
Form the followign into a horror story of your choosing:
Font trip
Rain
Diarrhoea
Vomiting
No euro breakdown cover
Terminal engine failure in France
Ear infection
Vast expense
Getting screwed by the AA
Grr.. just had the numbing email notification that a Nature submission I lead authored has been rejected.
One good review, but the other reviewer was "the worst person it could have gone to". They spent 4000 words bitterly tearing us apart (we only had 2000 for the fecking article itself). My publising nemesis has struck again and prevented a possible career high.
Tits^10.
Back to revisit an old one I'm afraid... following the above we managed to haggle to make changes and re-submit for re-review.. 4000 words of supp material later and 6 months work... leading to it being resubmitted AND...
we just had the 'Dear John' f*ck off letter from the Editor...
Bah. Reformat and re-submit... yadayadayada...
Make sure you've got some, typically this was the first trip we didn't have any.Last week
Form the followign into a horror story of your choosing:
Font trip
Rain
Diarrhoea
Vomiting
No euro breakdown cover
Terminal engine failure in France
Ear infection
Vast expense
Getting screwed by the AA
Sounds like a rubbish trip indeed. Any knowledge about European breakdown cover smallprint that you can share?
At first, to the Layman, the whole Peer review system sounds great.
Until you realise " Peer" means competitor (or burnt out/bitter has been), with very non-scientific, very human, emotions and reactions.
Sounds like a rubbish trip indeed. Any knowledge about European breakdown cover smallprint that you can share?Make sure you've got some, typically this was the first trip we didn't have any.
Also if you speak to someone at the AA (who I have UK recovery cover with) and they say "get your car back to the UK and we'll sort it from there" don't be in any way surprised if you get your car back to the UK and they then refuse to in any way "sort it".
Definitely worth a letter of complaint. Don't forget that all calls are recorded so if they misled you have a case.Fear not our extensive complaints making department (the wife) is fired up and ready to go...
At first, to the Layman, the whole Peer review system sounds great.
Until you realise " Peer" means competitor (or burnt out/bitter has been), with very non-scientific, very human, emotions and reactions.
A lot of which stems back to issues Karl Popper (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Karl_Popper) and Thomas Kuhn (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thomas_Kuhn) "debated" (if I remember correctly they didn't actually have many direct exchanges either in person or writing) about the structure and conduct of science.
Definitely worth a letter of complaint. Don't forget that all calls are recorded so if they misled you have a case.Fear not our extensive complaints making department (the wife) is fired up and ready to go...
In hospital after falling off the road bike.
Broken thumb and generally smashed up. :oops:
Just got back from a visit to my GP regarding chronic low level aches/pains/instability in my left knee. On ultrasound the upper edge of my patella looks well worn down. Incipient arthritis, NNFN.
I'm sure I'm not the only one here who is getting on a bit and has spent years systematically wearing out crucial body parts. Got referrals for MR scan and physiotherapy. I already take turmeric capsules and eat lots of ginger. Anything else?
You have to elaborate on the first one, did you get so pissed you were unable to crawl the remaining 50 metres?The short(ish) version is we did oversleep by about 20min, however still got to the desk with plenty of time spare (more than an hour), but the numbty 3rd party crew handling the flight massively understaffed the desk (and gate) so the queue for 3 flights was manned by one desk. Consequently we got to the front to be told the flight was closed. We weren't the only ones. Then they had the audacity to blame us for turning up late! Eventually they reviewed CCTV, admitted they were at fault and paid for different flights, transfers and breakfast. :thumbsup:
My cat got hit by a car today.
She is going to be okay (yyfy) but has a broken pelvis and needs to be kept in a cage for 6 weeks. :-\
Hmmm, nothing a cat likes more than being cooped up in a cage.
Standby for angry cat!
Slipped on a greasy slope last Friday, landed on my back and (suspected) bruised my ribs. Wednesday woke up with the most intense muscle spasms ever (and pain induced turettes), it does not seem to be getting better even dosed up on a cocktail of Diazapan, Co codamol and ibuprofen, gutted to be missing the good weather and worried about summer riding plans going to shit :'(Nightmare Ian. Keep popping the pills though and it'll soon wear off, when I did my back in a few years back it felt like it was never going to fix (compression fracture of L1) but the pills did the trick and was playing Sunday league footy in four weeks. Keep the faith!
Use it as an excuse to put your feet up and drink beer in the sun.
Both my and my wife's bikes pinched from the shed over the weekend.
Not impressed.
Both my and my wife's bikes pinched from the shed over the weekend.
Not impressed.
Grr.. just had the numbing email notification that a Nature submission I lead authored has been rejected.
One good review, but the other reviewer was "the worst person it could have gone to". They spent 4000 words bitterly tearing us apart (we only had 2000 for the fecking article itself). My publising nemesis has struck again and prevented a possible career high.
Tits^10.
Back to revisit an old one I'm afraid... following the above we managed to haggle to make changes and re-submit for re-review.. 4000 words of supp material later and 6 months work... leading to it being resubmitted AND...
we just had the 'Dear John' f*ck off letter from the Editor...
Bah. Reformat and re-submit... yadayadayada...
An update on the saga...
Just been accepted with minor revisions to PLOSone - every cloud has a silver whatsitsface etc.,.. :)
Got broken into on Tuesday night. They stole the wife's bike, laptop, iPad, camera and backpack. Woke up mid-burglary and chased one out the house. Stood in the middle of the road in my boxers and watched five or six of them run off into night. Looks like the managed to get in through a window and then opened the front door.
After the Police had been around, I went for a wander and found the wife's back-pack dumped on the pavement, they managed to miss her purse and passport (small relief). Hopefully our insurance is going to cover it all, but has left us both pretty shaken.
Bloody useless dogs didn't make a peep until they started barking at the Police!
Got caught speeding on a country road in Canada ..Oh bollocks - where was that?
122 km/hr in an 80 ... Though the speed limit was 100 ... So still fuct
Got knocked back from trying to join the army for the 2nd time today. >:(
Glorious weather forecast, free from family duties, probably one of the last few chances of the autumn to get out on some actual rock - and your climbing partner cries off at eleven o'clock the evening before. Arse.
You need to find another climbing partner.
Reel the grade in and have a nice day soloing?
Whenever I've popped/sretched an A2/A3 there has been no pain - whatsoever. Just a gentle numbness that starts about 10-15 min later...
Fun weekend away, right up to the point I got home and realised we'd been burgled. Arse.
Some twat broke into the Chequemobile last night, lured only by the promise of a closed glovebox. >:(
All they took was the faceplate of my car stereo and Ipod cable, the manual thing, a tyre pressure gauge and (I shit you not) a biro but replacing the window and the faceplate has cost more than I had in the big Autumn USA trip fund.
Fucking thieving cunts. :furious:
Some twat broke into the Chequemobile last night, lured only by the promise of a closed glovebox. >:(
All they took was the faceplate of my car stereo and Ipod cable, the manual thing, a tyre pressure gauge and (I shit you not) a biro but replacing the window and the faceplate has cost more than I had in the big Autumn USA trip fund.
Fucking thieving cunts. :furious:
This happened again last night. This time the only things in the car were two bouldering mats, which they didn't take. Doesn't even look like they opened the door after smashing the window but it does seem to be a thieves rather than vandals as no other cars in the carpark were touched and it was broken with a screwdriver in the window seal rather than chucking something through.
I've now spent more on the car in a month than it it's worth. :(
That's seriously bad luck. What a bunch of fucking cunts. :spank: :chair:
nightmare, where abouts was it parked Mike?
And I'm 45 tomoorrow.. B*llocks...
yeah, i did one of those last week... 25 ;D
]
But what's your fitness age?? http://www.ntnu.edu/cerg/vo2max (http://www.ntnu.edu/cerg/vo2max)
Caveat: does not take account of degenerative age related ailments :-\
... update...
late notice cancellation = me getting MRI at 08:00 tomorrow. Ill get it reported within the hour. I f*ckin want to know what the hell i have done... cant even do a 4 finger hang or a pressup... tried an easy 4 ft drop on the bike this afternoon... mistake.
Getting physio exercises from British boxing team physio.. Via my very understanding surgeon. Reportedly they have excellent non operative results.
I think it's nice that all these old people have managed to learn to use computers and the internet so that they can chat about their health problems from the comfort of their own Shackletons high seat chair
Management plan... Climbing is OK :2thumbsup:
At the Buttermilks yesterday - Finally sent High Plains Drifter YYFY :strongbench:! Then pitched off the top of Pope's Prow, missing the pads and spraining left ankle and left knee NNFN :shit: ! Supposed to follow up with ortho after the holiday and see if I need MRI/arthroscopy etc for my knee. :furious:Shite - good effort on HPD - such a cool problem. That sucks re ankle and knee - hope it heals quickly.
I was stretching at the gym, not American, yesterday and a guy wandered over and asked me how long I'd been doing yoga!!!
I just wanted to highlight that I was actually at a gym, not the wall.
He was only there to meet his dealer.
I was stretching at the gym, not American, yesterday and a guy wandered over and asked me how long I'd been doing yoga!!!
it's ok to cry
you weren't wearing yoga pants were you?
Nice pay back for 27 years service.That's horrible, (as fried says) what a bunch of wankers.
Neighbour troubles. He went ape shit, banging on the wall, last night at 8.15 as Mrs Donkey was washing up the baby bottles in the kitchen. Went to spoke to him today in a very non-confrontational, calm and apologetic way and he just hurled abuse at me. Shitty new build houses+bat shit crazy people=Bad times :thumbsdown:
Neither of the above sound fun, mine pales into comparison.
After spending xx hours (almost a full day of dry daylight hours) hanging out the bedroom window replacing all the silicon around the window frames (which I thought was the cause of the leak) and having no leaks for about 2 weeks and thinking I had cracked it, after Sunday's rain there's once again a big puddle in the garage. Puts woody construction on hold again. Reaching a point where I need to get a professional to have a look, as I'm stumped where it's getting in now.
AndyD - thats shit too... next house (if I can afford it) will be detached. Neighbours :(
Asked to attend a meeting on Friday with several of my colleagues who are on the same pay grade with our manager. When we go in to the meeting there are 4 other managers,a guy from HR and colleagues from other teams.
We are informed that we are all at risk but not of redundancy but of organisational change, we can apply for one of 5 jobs at the same grade or one of 3 jobs at a grade lower.
Nice pay back for 27 years service.
Don't underestimate the power of wind to drive water through the tiniest of gaps
Neighbour troubles. He went ape shit, banging on the wall, last night at 8.15 as Mrs Donkey was washing up the baby bottles in the kitchen. Went to spoke to him today in a very non-confrontational, calm and apologetic way and he just hurled abuse at me. Shitty new build houses+bat shit crazy people=Bad times :thumbsdown:
Shit man, had that when I lived back in Derby and it was the worst thing, what was his beef?
They are offering a new role at the same grade, however it will be mainly managerial rather than clinical. This role used to be at a higher grade. Most of us in the past had the chance to apply for jobs like this but choose to remain in a clinical role. If you don't want with of these jobs you can apply for a clinical post at a grade lower i.e do the same job but get paid less.
Gutted. A traditional day out climbing always started with a full breakfast to clear the hangover and paging the old YMC brick, arguing about where to go. Usually deciding on Almscliff by lunchtime.
THE Otley cafe is shutting on Sunday :(
Yup. When I first went there (92) full brekky was £2.. I think it only went up to £3.50 (from £3) a couple of years ago..
No!!!
I have fond memories of the winter trek across from the South Lakes, in our quest for some dry rock, anything, anywhere. Inevitably we'd end up at Almscliffe just as the heavens opened once again. A couple of hours huddling under a overhang, hoping for a brief weather window would presage our retreat to the cafe in Otley. The cheap white bread covered with marg somehow made it all seem worthwhile.
Im going to try and drain the tankTake it easy, large amounts of petrol is not something to piss about with. The AA and others have special vans for this kind of thing. I know its highly annoying and you say your short of cash but I'd be tempted to get the pros to sort it and write it off to experience.
is that first video private because it features controversial ladder aid?
We could use it to document this contest between you and shark to see who can fail the highest.
That's a stiff sequence Shark, worth 7c of anyone's money. You know you can static to the lower break to avoid the pop?
That's what Rob Napier did. Are my feet in the right place to do it statically?
I rate getting the crimp below the jug first too. No dynamics required. No point start jumping for shit Shark, very undignified.
I rate getting the crimp below the jug first too. No dynamics required. No point start jumping for shit Shark, very undignified.
Especially for a sport climber... Show some decorum Shark ffs
I'm working in the Paris region, bust a gut to get finished so I can get time to go to Font, manage to get free at lunchtime today and then knacker a tendon in my wrist on the first problem of the day.
I could fucking scream. :'( :'( >:(
crimping is actually ok, but clenching my fist, then moving sideways is agony.
No idea what I've done, but it doesn't feel good.
See what it's like in the morning I guess. ferry not till late....
I'm working in the Paris region, bust a gut to get finished so I can get time to go to Font, manage to get free at lunchtime today and then knacker a tendon in my wrist on the first problem of the day.
I could fucking scream. :'( :'( >:(
crimping is actually ok, but clenching my fist, then moving sideways is agony.
No idea what I've done, but it doesn't feel good.
See what it's like in the morning I guess. ferry not till late....
Thanks FiendI'm working in the Paris region, bust a gut to get finished so I can get time to go to Font, manage to get free at lunchtime today and then knacker a tendon in my wrist on the first problem of the day.
I could fucking scream. :'( :'( >:(
crimping is actually ok, but clenching my fist, then moving sideways is agony.
No idea what I've done, but it doesn't feel good.
See what it's like in the morning I guess. ferry not till late....
I did something like that: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,23632.0.html (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,23632.0.html) , got one reply but that reply doesn't sound that similar (i.e. I get general pain not sharp ones).
Neighbour troubles. He went ape shit, banging on the wall, last night at 8.15 as Mrs Donkey was washing up the baby bottles in the kitchen. Went to spoke to him today in a very non-confrontational, calm and apologetic way and he just hurled abuse at me. Shitty new build houses+bat shit crazy people=Bad times :thumbsdown:
Neighbour troubles. He went ape shit, banging on the wall, last night at 8.15 as Mrs Donkey was washing up the baby bottles in the kitchen. Went to spoke to him today in a very non-confrontational, calm and apologetic way and he just hurled abuse at me. Shitty new build houses+bat shit crazy people=Bad times :thumbsdown:
Puncture on way to work on Tuesday. Turns out it was a Stanley knife blade buried in the tyre...
Think I fractured my coccyx two weeks ago after coming off a problem and missing a pad. I've been very limited in terms of the training I can do, as even on the campus board, any movement involving a lower body "initiation" is painful. After two weeks of fingerboard and limited campussing, it doesn't seem to be getting better. NNFN. :'(
Does anyone have any words of wisdom for me please? I've been reluctant to stop training entirely, as I've been making great gains recently and the weather's just starting to get nicer.
Snapped the middle bit out of the locking nut on one wheel while changing out winter tyres yesterday. Any ideas how to remove it now??Did exactly this last year, broke 3 out of 4 as the 'key' had warped. After being turned away at the usual tyre places then trying and failing to DIY it with these (http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_196491_langId_-1_categoryId_255216) (don't bother, waste of time and money) asked around for a local specialist garage/motor engineer, in Sheffield this was a local garage with a good reputation for solving problems.
Snapped the middle bit out of the locking nut on one wheel while changing out winter tyres yesterday. Any ideas how to remove it now??Did exactly this last year, broke 3 out of 4 as the 'key' had warped. After being turned away at the usual tyre places then trying and failing to DIY it with these (http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_196491_langId_-1_categoryId_255216) (don't bother, waste of time and money) asked around for a local specialist garage/motor engineer, in Sheffield this was a local garage with a good reputation for solving problems.
Cost me around £40.
I had only continued to use the locking ones as they were on the car already, didn't occur to me no-one would ever nick my piece of shit knackered alloys.
(I think I still have the 'removers', I did actually manage to get one off with them after a lot of effort. Mind you it was the outside of mine that had broken so it had less surface to grip. If you want to give them a go I can send you some)
Nibs :( Fucked, badly hurt or tweaked?I don't think it's anything serious like a ligament or the likes, but it's swollen, painful, and I can't flex it or extend it. It hurts on the inside, more or left in the middle of the joint, maybe meniscus.
SA Chris. Best take it to the garage (as you've done) they'll probably drill out the centre of the nut and try to use an 'easy out' which is like a reverse threaded self tapping screw.. it can for sure be done, but can be awkward/messy. I've done it with shared bolts in Engine blocks where theres much less room for error (and the bolt is much smaller!).
Part of the problem with these locking nuts is that often tyre fitting places wizz up ALL the bolts with the air gun - where these should really be hand tightened and not up to the full bolt torque.. (many say that for all bolts on Alloys they should all be hand tightened and torqued for the final bit).
Maybe a couple of teargas cannisters would be worth keeping by the front door for potential future "issues". Once you've been on the receiving end of that stuff you stay well clear.not sure of the legality of that stuff, the last thing you want is to get in trouble yourself, a handy water hose might be better!
Snapped the middle bit out of the locking nut on one wheel while changing out winter tyres yesterday. Any ideas how to remove it now??
Maybe a couple of teargas cannisters would be worth keeping by the front door for potential future "issues". Once you've been on the receiving end of that stuff you stay well clear.
Pepper spray or mace then. Has the desired effect regardless.[/s]
Done. Though ... anyone know whether that actually works as intended ... ie hide the underlying URL from a search?I don't think using http://goo.gl/ (http://goo.gl/) does - search engines will still follow the shortened link and the target page will be associated with this forum.
Ten years? More like 20! And yes, that's because we now break when he hit the ground instead of bouncing.
Hope its nothing too serious beast!
Traversing... it becomes more and more attractive the older and less repairable you become!I don't know that looks pretty high
(I bet Shark has reconstructed the eatswood traverse in his new house extension...)
Ok... I was alerted to some posts on the public Facebook forum "Spotted Torquay" by a friend. And found this:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/oldmanmatt/13909171933/
To the Leagle Eagles on here, do I have to accept this harassment?
Since he posted it publicly, is it fair for me to share/comment?
A guy that has to work WEEKENDS ALSO for a living?;D
A small YYFY the sun came out and we walked to Mamouths, nice area, not many problems. Maybe tomorrow it won't rain and we get our van back :)
Motorbike broken again. Seems a major electric problem, it just doesn't generate electricity. What have I done to upset the God of Motors?
Motorbike broken again. Seems a major electric problem, it just doesn't generate electricity. What have I done to upset the God of Motors?
Ouch... You're not having much luck with it, are you...
I just pulled my front pads off to find one of them was completely worn down to metal.... But weirdly the other was absolutely fine. Pain in the arse but able to get a new set this afternoon and fit them tomorrow...
Motorbike broken again. Seems a major electric problem, it just doesn't generate electricity. What have I done to upset the God of Motors?
Ouch... You're not having much luck with it, are you...
I just pulled my front pads off to find one of them was completely worn down to metal.... But weirdly the other was absolutely fine. Pain in the arse but able to get a new set this afternoon and fit them tomorrow...
Sticking caliper...
Motorbike broken again. Seems a major electric problem, it just doesn't generate electricity. What have I done to upset the God of Motors?
Ouch... You're not having much luck with it, are you...
I just pulled my front pads off to find one of them was completely worn down to metal.... But weirdly the other was absolutely fine. Pain in the arse but able to get a new set this afternoon and fit them tomorrow...
Sticking caliper...
Yeah spot on. Just need to give it a good clean out in the morning and fit new pads... Good thing I have tomorrow off...
We will be out of here as fast as we can once the van is fixed! Roche Greau yesterday was positively tropical, just right for a few goes on les conquistadors. I reckon Puiselet is a bit far to walk, thanks for the advice though.Got the van back for two days then the alternator packed in! Then I pranged the side of the Hertz hire car on a boulder. Our luck must change surely?
Just back from hospital appointment.I'd hoped for some good news but no,it appears there has been permanent damage to my eyesight. Consultant seems convinced it is linked to MS.
NNFN.
Just back from hospital appointment.I'd hoped for some good news but no,it appears there has been permanent damage to my eyesight. Consultant seems convinced it is linked to MS.Sorry to hear this.
NNFN.
Just back from hospital appointment.I'd hoped for some good news but no,it appears there has been permanent damage to my eyesight. Consultant seems convinced it is linked to MS.
NNFN.
This is how I went out today...
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8667/15676361952_007a2d1933.jpg) (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/15676361952/)
image (https://www.flickr.com/photos/70381658@N00/15676361952/) by Nibile (https://www.flickr.com/people/70381658@N00/), on Flickr
(Hopefully without images)This is how I went out today...
The Kids your way'll be doing this next... trendsetter!
Not serious.. And could easy be YYFY at the same time.. Depends on glass half vs. half empty..That's great! And to hold him off until 16 is a decent effort on your part mate. If Raf wasn't so obsessed with cricket I fear he'd be burning me off by the time he's 10.
Finally.... Finally my eldest son (16) kicked my FICKIN arse on plastic today... Like totally. Not just stuff he's done before.
Hopefully out on the real stuff 30 years of guile and tenacious knowledge will keep me ahead of the game for a few months.. But frankly.... I don't care. Just soo happy he's got off his arse and Focused on something he has now found true satisfaction...
So it's a NNYN for me.... And a massive YYFY for him. Another addition to the brethren.
*choked*
Hopefully out on the real stuff 30 years of guile and tenacious knowledge will keep me ahead of the game for a few months..
"I may not be as strong as I think," the old man said. "But I know many tricks and I have resolution."
Ah... The board... The standard set we nicknamed the 10 commandments about 3 winters ago. All this plastic pulling has left the lad a little short on finger strength... he's in bulk. Done 3 out of the ten... I've done 7 this week.. This is getting interesting. He's just asked for a programme for the beast maker though... The sands of time are running through fast..
It's half one on a Monday morning and I'm running. It's dark, raining and they turned the streetlights off in my village at mignight, but I'm running. There's pain burning in my abdomen, pain that I can't touch, can't get away from, so I run harder - hoping to replace it with my own pain. Pain I can control.
Let me tell you how I got here. I woke up one morning in early August busting for a piss. Just a normal Sunday morning right? Wrong. No matter what I did I couldn't get rid of that feeling. I must've stood in front of the fucking bog for half the day trying to piss it out, but it wouldn't go. And the feeling was still there when I went to the Doctors later that week. The young doctor got me to piss on a bit of paper, and quickly pronounced: "There's a strong possibility you're diabetic".. I told him there was a strong possibility he was wrong. But he wouldn't do anything further until him and his colleagues had sent various poorly labelled specimens to the local lab. The lab either lost them, or did the wrong tests. We continued in this way for over a month.
Meanwhile, things had got worse, what had started as feeling like I needed to piss quickly morphed into a burning pain, and then in the nastiest twist of all, the sensation of intense electric shocks shooting down my right leg (and other places too delicate to mention). The pain is non-stop, it hollows me out, I can't talk, not even to the person I live with, the person I love. I can't let her near me to comfort me, or even to talk it through.
The doctors are now beginning to decide that I have some kind of biblical knob ebola reserved for the very worst people in society. One particularly stern interrogation as to my involvement with needles, promiscuous gay sex and whores conspires with my lack of sleep (about 2 hours a night?) and sees me leaving the GP's genuinely wondering if I've actually done this stuff and am just fooling myself. At some point doctors started putting fingers and other implements up my arse and other less accommodating oraphises. I barely care.
God knows how, but even when I've hardly slept in weeks and am in pain, I still have the desire and some ability to climb. There's something about the immediacy of the situation when I'm climbing that makes my body block the pain out. I suppose it makes me realise that it's the stripped back, animal part of me that's at the controls when I'm pulling on rock. These moments are my islands, where I'm alive again.
After two months of this, I'm lying in bed with the shooting pains running through me and I can hear my partner moving around downstairs. It dawns on me that we're leading separate lives, and at the same moment a crackling jolt of pain shoots up my leg. I break. I burst into tears for the first time in decades, huge gulping sobs and whimpering moans. There are footsteps on the stairs and a hand on my back, careful to stay her distance. Through the tears and bubbles of snot, I demand to be taken climbing. I sit in the passenger seat, crying while my girlfriend drives me to the local sport crag. I clip bolts for a couple of hours and regain my composure.
I go private. They knock me out and push a camera on a stick up my japs eye. I have Prostatitis. They squeeze the prostate out and hose it down. The doctor tells me to take time off work (yep, I was still going into work - Moron) and to take pills - lots of pills, Some with funny side effects.
Things get a bit better. I start to become more human. Slowly I get my personality back, and my relationship with it. I start to socialise again, and in a few weeks go back to work. I'm still in some pain, but it's so much better, and I can sleep! The joy!
I go back to work, and start to feel competent again. Realise how fucking useless and pathetic I'd been those last few months. Curse myself for not sacking it off sooner.
Slowly, so slowly I start to feel optimistic. I'm getting over this, getting back to normal. Get in!
Then, in bed, one Sunday night in November I feel a crackle and a twinge of pain - and the burning, white hot need to take a piss. My missis lies asleep next to me and I lie there rigid while I slide back two months in two hours. I can't cope with the pain again, can't believe what's happening. I leave the sleeping form of my partner under the covers in the warm bedroom, put on my running stuff and step out of the door into the dark.
It's half one on a Monday morning and I'm out running.
NNFN
Nail in rear tyre Saturday evening.
Crash with car Sunday evening.
This one hurt more than last time.
Fucked my rotator cuff, 1 week before i go to Chulilla too... pretty fucking devastated.
Dog ate the turkey... Thank god im a veggie so couldn't care less
Anyway, it was thumbs up all round for the combination of venison, raspberries, dark chocolate and stout - even with unknown extras from the floor ha!
First day off in a while, sleepily set about doing some exercises I've been doing during the day at work. Didn't give a thought to fact I was barefoot on carpet. 40 moves into some wideouts and I realise I have no skin left under both my big toes :chair:
Plenty of blood but no skin. Do carpet burns have grades?
Dickhead.
Lufthansa lost my luggage on Saturday evening and there is still no sign of it. Worst is my laptop charger was in it and even the battery on my mac book can't hold out for ever. I know, first world problem etc.
Lufthansa lost my luggage on Saturday evening and there is still no sign of it. Worst is my laptop charger was in it and even the battery on my mac book can't hold out for ever. I know, first world problem etc.
Now I walk like John Wayne after riding bareback for three days.
Oh, and we say "pull out" not "pull back"...On a side note, I make this kind of errors all the time. I have a couple of words in my mind and I mix them up. Oh well, I'm learning a lot on here as of late!
Mainly, I was thinking, Hill Sprints was a funny name for a girl, but maybe she's from California...Oh, and we say "pull out" not "pull back"...On a side note, I make this kind of errors all the time. I have a couple of words in my mind and I mix them up. Oh well, I'm learning a lot on here as of late!
The best April Fool's joke I've seen today is the one about a bunch of millionaires telling people who to vote for because it'll be better for them.
The best April Fool's joke I've seen today is the one about a bunch of millionaires telling people who to vote for because it'll be better for them.Genius, stolen for status.
Haydns was far far better than UKC's effort...This is petty poor too http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=7208
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=69629
The best April Fool's joke I've seen today is the one about a bunch of millionaires telling people who to vote for because it'll be better for them.
someone rip a tendon now please..
Jesusfuckingchrist, let's bring this back to its roots.
Yesterday, after a session of about 15 footless boulders from 8 to 15 moves, I couldn't do more than one one armer per arm. One! :wall:
Time to hang the boots. Oh wait a minute, maybe I've already done that.
Time to hang the microcrimps then.
someone rip a tendon now please..
Done
:sorry:
Today I found out that I can only do the crux of powerband the lanky way (way barrows does it on the big link). :boohoo:
Will it still count?! It's not like it's easy that way or anything but I've heard that alternative sequences aren't allowed on this limestone stuff...
Audible 'snap' from my A2 today at St Bees 10 minutes into the warm-up in perfect spring conditons.. it was the last session of a perodised training cycle, next week was full rest, now it's rehab till the end of July :'(
I was in such good shape too! :furious:
And yesterday I screwed 26 new crimps onto the garage woody :boohoo:
:shit: :shit: :shit:
Audible 'snap' from my A2 today at St Bees 10 minutes into the warm-up in perfect spring conditons.. it was the last session of a perodised training cycle, next week was full rest, now it's rehab till the end of July :'(
I was in such good shape too! :furious:
And yesterday I screwed 26 new crimps onto the garage woody :boohoo:
:shit: :shit: :shit:
strained my rib muscles, which the internet suggests takes ages to heal from! NNFN!
In Golden, Denver visiting GF at the start of a three week trip, went snowboarding for the first time which was a bit of a YYFY. Obviously fell over quite a lot and strained my rib muscles, which the internet suggests takes ages to heal from! NNFN!
It was Loveland. Nice place, new snow and great experience for a longtime surfer, first time snow boarder. Ribs are getting better, lots of ice and ibuprofen. Maybe not as bad as I thought. Still find getting of the bed painful though.strained my rib muscles, which the internet suggests takes ages to heal from! NNFN!
Give it a few days, might go away, and not be as serious as you think. Where were you riding?
Biceps tenosynovitis versus need for Slap repair of shoulder. Time to invest in physiotherapy. Poor resolution means mri steroid or heaven forbid surgery after the summer biking season
It's just one thing after another. Damn my failed immortality
Tennis?Bouldering.
Jokes apart, no it's not tennis. I feel it as being more joint related than tendon related. Some flexion angles are really painful just to hold and everything seems a bit stiff and maybe even swollen.
It's in the back of the elbow, mainly between the point of the elbow and the epicondilus, where the soft tissue is.
It's horrible, it hurt to just wash my face this morning.
II
...and if I get it I just do more ring pushups.
That isn't the NNFN; I was totally off my game and didn't realise that the pretty doctor treating me was the same pretty doctor i'd been chatting to via online dating!
(http://d1p3t35jiqtse7.cloudfront.net/content/uploads/2014/08/richard-keys-400x400.jpg)
Descending a steep rocky footpath yesterday and a big chunk of the path gave way with me on it...sprained wrist, two cracked ribs...bastard!
:( insurance??
Weird shit in my left leg. Sudden twanging/tearing sensation in my calf in the night - not cramp, I'm familiar with that and this was different. Acute pain in the belly of the muscle but only when I put load on it by doing something foolish such as trying to walk. No swelling, no bruising. GP says muscles don't spontaneously tear themselves in the night while resting, any anyway it's in the wrong place for the common or garden middle aged bloke calf muscle tear. His diagnosis: some weird shit, orthopaedist asap, A&E if it gets even weirder before I make it to the orthopaedist.
Not after an internet diagnosis, just having a little cry. So far this year I've trained hard by my standards, definitely feel like I've made progress in terms of movement and strength indoors, but for a variety of reasons - weather, transport, injuries - actual achievements on actual rock have been few and far between. I had a couple of free weekends and partners lined up in June and was determined to change that. Now I can't even walk to the f*cking crag. :'(
Time to read Dave Mac's chapter on psychologically coping with downtime, and then re-read his blog post about campusing and one-footed bouldering (http://davemacleod.blogspot.de/2015/06/campus-notes.html).
It sounds, not dissimilar; to a mates DVT onset. His bruising didn't show for days (his was probably diving induced) and the whole thing was initial written off as "weird shit".
Snapped hold + missed pad = bruised and hacked up elbow and bruised arse. I suspect I'll not be putting on a wetsuit this week.
Like most people everything that happens to me is my own fault and so I've never felt cause to post on this thread.
I am really annoyed about this one though.
http://tinyurl.com/onsq7yk
I thought sprints are for weight loss?They are primarily for making you feel like the baddest mofo on Earth despite wearing lycra.
I thought sprints are for weight loss?
Good luck.
Some fucking scrote has cracked one of our double-glazed windows. Upstairs so likely throwing/kicking ball/stone at it. Fucking dumb shit.
Some fucking scrote has cracked one of our double-glazed windows. Upstairs so likely throwing/kicking ball/stone at it. Fucking dumb shit.
pretty dense
I'd be amazed if a ball could break an upstairs double glazed window (unless it was a proper cricket ball, unlikely).
Our big dining room window gets regularly battered with cricket shots that leave it vibrating (plastic ball but pretty dense/heavy) and so far it's survived.
Turns out the driver from my hit-and-run yesterday (see my Power Club post for farcical details) was uninsured so, as I only have third party insurance, I can't claim.
But my premium will increase as a result of contacting my insurers about it.
Turns out the driver from my hit-and-run yesterday (see my Power Club post for farcical details) was uninsured so, as I only have third party insurance, I can't claim.
But my premium will increase as a result of contacting my insurers about it.
Time to find a lawyer?...
Time to find a lawyer?...
I don't have any details about the driver unfortunately- the number plate on their car is simply not on insurance databases (I checked it on the road tax/ SORN website too- unknown) so I don't think there's anything I can do besides report the incident to the police, which I did yesterday.
Luckily the only damage to my car is to the bumper (it blends in even better with the rest of it now- it's a shitheap that I've scraped against a multitude of things over the years) so I'm just going to leave it until I replace the car in a few months.
Most importantly my girlfriend and I are uninjured- I have a bit of a stiff neck but nothing worse.
One of Dai Koyamadas entourage saw it happen at 6 in the morning and let me know .
There's a fucking Xmas tree up in the pub!
There's a fucking Xmas tree up in the pub!
There's a fucking Xmas tree up in the pub!
There's a fucking Xmas tree up in the pub!
Probably this one..There's a fucking Xmas tree up in the pub!
which pub?
Got up to go for a piss in the night, passed out after two steps and whacked my head on the floor. Came round straight away but have niggled my shoulder too :(
thinking about popping down the docs later, yes. Developed a bit of a sore neck now too, closest I can equate it to is taking a bit hit falling on my snowboard in the park.Got up to go for a piss in the night, passed out after two steps and whacked my head on the floor. Came round straight away but have niggled my shoulder too :(
Not wise! You been for a checkup?
Got up to go for a piss in the night, passed out after two steps and whacked my head on the floor. Came round straight away but have niggled my shoulder too :(
Anyone know a good witch doctor/got any old wives tales with a cure I can try before now and Saturday?
With a couple of days left to go of my DWS holiday in Mallorca, I picked up a bit of lurgey (thanks Sam) and have ended up with one completely blocked ear. I have zero hearing on that side, an unpleasant on-off ringing/roaring noise and a bit of vertigo. Perfect preparation for a week in the Verdon starting on Saturday! Went to the pharmacy who said go to my GP, went there but can only get an appointment with a practice nurse, who and I quote "can have a look but can't syringe it or anything." Anyone know a good witch doctor/got any old wives tales with a cure I can try before now and Saturday? :boohoo:
Anyone know a good witch doctor/got any old wives tales with a cure I can try before now and Saturday? :boohoo:
With a couple of days left to go of my DWS holiday in Mallorca, I picked up a bit of lurgey (thanks Sam) and have ended up with one completely blocked ear. I have zero hearing on that side, an unpleasant on-off ringing/roaring noise and a bit of vertigo. Perfect preparation for a week in the Verdon starting on Saturday! Went to the pharmacy who said go to my GP, went there but can only get an appointment with a practice nurse, who and I quote "can have a look but can't syringe it or anything." Anyone know a good witch doctor/got any old wives tales with a cure I can try before now and Saturday? :boohoo:
With a couple of days left to go of my DWS holiday in Mallorca, I picked up a bit of lurgey (thanks Sam) and have ended up with one completely blocked ear. I have zero hearing on that side, an unpleasant on-off ringing/roaring noise and a bit of vertigo. Perfect preparation for a week in the Verdon starting on Saturday! Went to the pharmacy who said go to my GP, went there but can only get an appointment with a practice nurse, who and I quote "can have a look but can't syringe it or anything." Anyone know a good witch doctor/got any old wives tales with a cure I can try before now and Saturday? :boohoo:
Anyone know a good witch doctor/got any old wives tales with a cure I can try before now and Saturday?If it's wax buildup then buy hydrogen peroxide from any supermarket pharmacy. You may want to dilute it a little. Lie on your side and pour that shit into your ear. You get some extremely satisfying fizzing as it melts through the wax. Use cotton buds to remove the smeg.
I've had some hearing problems lately (tinnitus and loss of hearing in my left ear) which culminated in an MRI last week
With a couple of days left to go of my DWS holiday in Mallorca, I picked up a bit of lurgey (thanks Sam) and have ended up with one completely blocked ear. I have zero hearing on that side, an unpleasant on-off ringing/roaring noise and a bit of vertigo. Perfect preparation for a week in the Verdon starting on Saturday!
I've had that from surfing sometimes. Usually releases when you tip your head at a certain angle. Can be embarrassing if it happens during a meeting....
I've had some hearing problems lately (tinnitus and loss of hearing in my left ear) which culminated in an MRI last week
I've got fairly severe tinnitus (worse in left than right) a culmination of 2 years in Artillery and too many noisy gigs and clubs with shit sound systems. Why did they recommend an MRI? I've never bothered about going to docs about it, from any reading online it seems like there's little you can do.
The NHS current kit, from Denmark, really works even for severe/profound hearing loss. Thank you blonde scientists in white lab coats - and Clement Attlee.
I've had that from surfing sometimes. Usually releases when you tip your head at a certain angle. Can be embarrassing if it happens during a meeting....
I've got fairly severe tinnitus (worse in left than right) a culmination of 2 years in Artillery and too many noisy gigs and clubs with shit sound systems. Why did they recommend an MRI?
So, as a mark of respect to cobblers and they're art (and hopefully lighten some lives a little), I hear by cry NNFN, for the death of these shoes...
Self re-soles by A.N.Xspurt.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/25/2bf08717af925ad5c96c78c2b418ca0a.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/25/46852148f2cbc8276ebe0122c4cb5142.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/25/1275afc87f10d85c0e522e1a48edf128.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Just out of curiosity I found out that I am actually only 169,5 cm tall and not 172 as I've always been told by doctors. Or I just shrunk.
Taking half a grade more for everyhing done.
As you get older, your hips tend to get wider and therefore waist size can increase without any weight gain. I think its to do the gradual compression of your spine but I might possibly have just made that up.
So there's hope that one day I can abuse people for lanking climbs and make up for all the heckling I've had over the years? Can't wait.
As you get STRONGER, your SHOULDERS tend to get wider and therefore waist size can DECREASE without any weight gain.FTFY.
My iPad is 200 miles away, under a pillow :furious:
I've shrunk almost 2.5 cm between age 19 and 44.
They tell me my spine is fine.
Me thinks they lie.
that's only one of Tom's injuries from yesterday
I was expecting a pic of his facial wound from trying to stop an airborne pad with his eye socket
Are the two lines coming off the hole trails of blood or is it a truly massive flapper?left one is a cut/scratch - rh one is just a skin fold..
wtf! Whats that from tomtom? Looks nasty :thumbsdown:
no belly-scrape from your slide down?
Probably not helped by not being able to climb for the last week - soft skin etc...
what was Mrs Tomtom's reaction to your injuries?
or have you tried to keep them hidden?
draw a picture of her reaction, please
: managed to put his own teeshirt on yesterday.
Both wrists at the same time really is a bummer but he's handling it wellI see what you did there...
Off to our local orthopaedist now to check that it's all still properly aligned.
He was in a Passat TDi, probably couldn't see me through the clouds of deadly smoke billowing out of his exhaust.
Off to our local orthopaedist now to check that it's all still properly aligned.
A good idea. I broke my Radius age 6 and had it "set" by a doctor in South Africa. He didn't get it quite straight and it has been susceptible to injury ever since.
Christ that sounds grim! Thanks for not posting pics.
the break I needed...
Honestly, do whatever you have to do to find the best Doctor you can get and head straight to him.
Honestly, do whatever you have to do to find the best Doctor you can get and head straight to him.
How do you know it's a bloke?
Cheers everyone. I've got a follow up tomorrow to check out infection. Might get a chance to ask about it then
Honestly, do whatever you have to do to find the best Doctor you can get and head straight to him.
How do you know it's a bloke?
I don't. What's the politically correct form of addresing these type of genre ambiguity sentences nowadays? Him/Her? It? The quack?
Cheers everyone. I've got a follow up tomorrow to check out infection. Might get a chance to ask about it then
Cheers everyone. I've got a follow up tomorrow to check out infection. Might get a chance to ask about it thenKeep the faith, so long as you get good recovery and physio as other have suggested on here, you should be fine.
I'm currently not sleeping due to Storm Frank raging outside,
I'm currently not sleeping due to Storm Frank raging outside,
time to launch air strikes against Iceland - that's where Frank is being hosted
Ta everyone. That's good to hear fiend. Cheers.
Will feel Shit loads better once um off these antibiotics, will be able to get more up and about.
None climbing related.. Just moved into our new house! Got Sky installed today...
(http://i64.tinypic.com/25k0i6b.jpg)
He managed bang centre of the pipe!!
None climbing related.. Just moved into our new house! Got Sky installed today...
(http://i64.tinypic.com/25k0i6b.jpg)
He managed bang centre of the pipe!!
I put a floorboard nail through a central heating pipe once. Then quickly took it out again.
One of these mistakes is worse than the other.
Broke my leg last Tuesday playing football. External dislocation internal fracture ie ankle bone sticking out of leg. Currently in bed feeling Shit from being full of antibiotics fighting off some additional skin infection in the leg.
Prognosis 6 weeks non weight bearing and 6 weeks partial.
Gonna have a fucked ankle for long time.
I'm currently hooked up to iv (...) steroids 3 days later.
I'm on a graduate scheme so don't have much say. I was hoping for Edinburgh this time around but unfortunately the majority of roles are in London. It'll be over by September though and I can have some more control over my life again...
I'm on a graduate scheme so don't have much say. I was hoping for Edinburgh this time around but unfortunately the majority of roles are in London. It'll be over by September though and I can have some more control over my life again...Edinburgh is like being cast out into the wastelands if you like climbing.
Been having trouble with side effects from some steroids I've been put on - got quite twitchy and anxious plus suffering from muscle weakness and lethargy which messed up my second week climbing in Spain. I also seem to have picked up a minor elbow tweak. Found out today the consultant/pharmacy ballsed up and I was only meant to be on the roids for a week instead of the past month, meaning I needn't have had all this aggro. Quite chuffed that I haven't lost my rag about it though!
Been having trouble with side effects from some steroids I've been put on - got quite twitchy and anxious plus suffering from muscle weakness and lethargy which messed up my second week climbing in Spain. I also seem to have picked up a minor elbow tweak. Found out today the consultant/pharmacy ballsed up and I was only meant to be on the roids for a week instead of the past month, meaning I needn't have had all this aggro. Quite chuffed that I haven't lost my rag about it though!
Are you not pretty stacked now though word?
Some thieving mutha fuckers nicked and burnt out my pimp ass wheels in the early hours of Sunday morning (I guess the problem with having a ride as desirable as a leaking 1991 Micra is its a high value target)... Being worth no money and with me needing to dispose of it in the next few weeks anyway this was funny asuxh as annoying... Until it turns out it's a £250 quid recovery fee even if I don't want the fucker back!
Fucking plebs.
Some thieving mutha fuckers nicked and burnt out my pimp ass wheels in the early hours of Sunday morning (I guess the problem with having a ride as desirable as a leaking 1991 Micra is its a high value target)... Being worth no money and with me needing to dispose of it in the next few weeks anyway this was funny asuxh as annoying... Until it turns out it's a £250 quid recovery fee even if I don't want the fucker back!
Fucking plebs.
Most expensive dessert ever.
Sunday evening: I was celebrating a good weekend's efforts at Almscliff and the Depot with a date slice (from the farm shop near Almscliff). Crunched on a fragment of date stone and fractured a tooth. Got an emergency dental appointment which removed the fragment and put a temporary cap on the tooth - and was told that to save the tooth I will likely need root canal and a crown (and that is if it can be saved - follow-up appointment in a fortnight to see how the gum has healed).
Unfortunately, I am not currently registered with an NHS dentist (a couple of years ago, my previous dentist removed me from its register - their email asking me to arrange a check up was spam filtered and I didn't realise until too late) . So, I am looking at a bill of around £1000 for private treatment... unless I can find a dentist actively taking new NHS patients.... the few I have found that are taking anyone at all, have 18-24 month waiting lists.
Hey ho.... my own fault - I should have immediately put myself back on a waiting list when I became unregistered. But even so..... £1000 for eating a date fkking slice! I thought reducing my power/weight ratio was the worst I could expect!
Unfortunately, I am not currently registered with an NHS dentist (a couple of years ago, my previous dentist removed me from its register - their email asking me to arrange a check up was spam filtered and I didn't realise until too late) . So, I am looking at a bill of around £1000 for private treatment... unless I can find a dentist actively taking new NHS patients.... the few I have found that are taking anyone at all, have 18-24 month waiting lists.
Hey ho.... my own fault - I should have immediately put myself back on a waiting list when I became unregistered. But even so..... £1000 for eating a date fkking slice! I thought reducing my power/weight ratio was the worst I could expect!
Do the harder cicuits stick to the main left hand hand board? If so, I hope you're only using that board for both hands and feet, James.
Moose is on a final written warning for using the side wall on previous iterations.....you have been warned...
Woken by a mouse in my suitcase in my hotel room last night at about 3am. Probably a lowercase nnfn although it did manage to get in to my bag of Liquorice Allsorts which I found a bit upsetting at the time.
Yep, was short of space anyway, the mouse is usually a luxury as a travelling companion....Woken by a mouse in my suitcase in my hotel room last night at about 3am. Probably a lowercase nnfn although it did manage to get in to my bag of Liquorice Allsorts which I found a bit upsetting at the time.
Well, leave the mouse a home next time.
Yep, was short of space anyway, the mouse is usually a luxury as a travelling companion....Woken by a mouse in my suitcase in my hotel room last night at about 3am. Probably a lowercase nnfn although it did manage to get in to my bag of Liquorice Allsorts which I found a bit upsetting at the time.
Well, leave the mouse a home next time.
The owl and the pussy cat went to sea in a beautiful pea green boat. The owl found a mouse in his guitar. He ripped its head off and ate it. The cat pretended to be his friend. Then he ate the owl. He went home and shat in flower beds. The end.Yep, was short of space anyway, the mouse is usually a luxury as a travelling companion....Woken by a mouse in my suitcase in my hotel room last night at about 3am. Probably a lowercase nnfn although it did manage to get in to my bag of Liquorice Allsorts which I found a bit upsetting at the time.
Well, leave the mouse a home next time.
Mouse in a suitcase eating liquorice? It sounds more like a missing verse from The Owl And The Pussycat than a post in NNFN.
The owl and the pussy cat went to sea in a beautiful pea green boat. The owl found a mouse in his guitar. He ripped its head off and ate it. The cat pretended to be his friend. Then he ate the owl. He went home and shat in flower beds. The end.Yep, was short of space anyway, the mouse is usually a luxury as a travelling companion....Woken by a mouse in my suitcase in my hotel room last night at about 3am. Probably a lowercase nnfn although it did manage to get in to my bag of Liquorice Allsorts which I found a bit upsetting at the time.
Well, leave the mouse a home next time.
Mouse in a suitcase eating liquorice? It sounds more like a missing verse from The Owl And The Pussycat than a post in NNFN.
Will. This mouse ruins the story. That's why the verse was left out.
Sorry about the dog mate. I'm sure they'll say he does it a lot and it's not your fault. Perhaps he ran off because his owners called him fizzy.
Cleaner should have a key if they trust them to go everywhere in the house without a chaperone.
I think you're in the clear.
May have a torn labrum in my shoulder. If i'm down the works looking like I'm trying not to murder someone, this is primarily the reason why.
It's just not the same when I use my left hand.
It's just not the same when I use my left hand.
Amen, brother.
My girlfriend and I do a spot of house & dog sitting for a (rather wealthy) couple when they go on holiday and get paid quite well for it.
We've been there since Sunday morning and they come back tonight.
On Sunday afternoon 2 of their 3 dogs (a Springer and a Border terrier) promptly disappeared from the garden/field and could not be found. NNFN
We then spent the entire afternoon/evening scouring the local area (rural Somerset, Quantock hills) shouting for them to no avail. NNFN
After 2 nights away, Indie the Springer has turned up home. Despite looking very sorry for herself, being a bit malnourished and sporting a sore paw she'll be fine YYFY.
Fizzy the little Border is still missing. NNFN
On Thursdays the cleaners come round. We leave the front door unlocked and they let themselves in. Except I didn't leave the door unlocked and the cleaners couldn't go in. NNFN
I am now massively, MASSIVELY in the shit with the Mrs who is the one the family have all contact with. NNFN
They are going to arrive back from holiday tonight to a house which is -1 loved family pet, and that hasn't had the usual weekly clean by their cleaners. NNFN
Fizzy the Border is still missing. NNFN
Scrolled down hoping there was a positve end to this, bad luck mate!
Pretty sure the last MOT was fiddled A LOT! I didn't really trust the dealer so probably shouldn't have bought it. But having zero advisories compared to the amount that needs doing (all ware based) doesn't sit right with me given the small amount of use it's had.
My fucking phone just dropped 12m out of my pocket and onto tile. :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall:That sucks.
Only got it in Dec. :wall:
Considering a lay off from climbing for a few months to maybe let the body get back to 100% health.
Amen to that TT.
Total bill came out at £470 (including the fixed I got last week in preparation). If the fucker breaks it's going over a cliff.
Hopefully it will last another few years and take me out to Europe a handful more times at least.
It really could do with a service soon as well. Does anyone know the difference between the full and partial service options (other than about £80)?
Fucking cars.
Edit.
I shouldn't take it out on the van really... He's taken me all over Europe, saved me from hotel costs, housed me for a month in London, taught me lots about DIY, made moving things MUCH easier, given me great mileage, and other than a new battery caused me no problems at all. Some wear can't really be helped on a 118k mileage vehicle. Just fucking sucks paying for the said wear. Fucking costs.
Amen to that TT.
Total bill came out at £470 (including the fixed I got last week in preparation). If the fucker breaks it's going over a cliff.
Hopefully it will last another few years and take me out to Europe a handful more times at least.
It really could do with a service soon as well. Does anyone know the difference between the full and partial service options (other than about £80)?
Fucking cars.
Edit.
I shouldn't take it out on the van really... He's taken me all over Europe, saved me from hotel costs, housed me for a month in London, taught me lots about DIY, made moving things MUCH easier, given me great mileage, and other than a new battery caused me no problems at all. Some wear can't really be helped on a 118k mileage vehicle. Just fucking sucks paying for the said wear. Fucking costs.
It should only cost you £35 to do a full service yourself and its easy enough. What van have you got? The oil filter can be a bastered if its siezed up. You don't need an oil filter temoval tool. Just wrap a belt wrond it to get some traction and pull really fucking hard
Amen to that TT.
Total bill came out at £470 (including the fixed I got last week in preparation). If the fucker breaks it's going over a cliff.
Hopefully it will last another few years and take me out to Europe a handful more times at least.
It really could do with a service soon as well. Does anyone know the difference between the full and partial service options (other than about £80)?
Fucking cars.
Edit.
I shouldn't take it out on the van really... He's taken me all over Europe, saved me from hotel costs, housed me for a month in London, taught me lots about DIY, made moving things MUCH easier, given me great mileage, and other than a new battery caused me no problems at all. Some wear can't really be helped on a 118k mileage vehicle. Just fucking sucks paying for the said wear. Fucking costs.
It should only cost you £35 to do a full service yourself and its easy enough. What van have you got? The oil filter can be a bastered if its siezed up. You don't need an oil filter temoval tool. Just wrap a belt wrond it to get some traction and pull really fucking hard
Diesel? Bit trickier if so...
Do you know of anywhere that's got a decent online guide of things you need to do/how to do them? A general one should be okay as long as it's not wildly different!
Haynes manual for a Berlingo is available to download in pdf format from popular torrenting sites but I'd advise against doing something so illegal.
Then why mention it? :shrug:
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160303/6b80e4d060e981eabcedac8a937332f2.jpg)Depending on which hand it is, it might have an impact on your ability to do your last statement.
Bollocks!
After 10 days of strong antibiotics, chills, rigours et al, I was finally feeling better yesterday.
Even managed a couple of k run and a bit of rope climbing and ring work and taught a GCSE PE class (Bouldering).
Went for a run this morning and noticed the lump on the back of my finger was itching, by lunch time it was throbbing, hurting and hot. Back to A&E.
Sent to Orthopaedics after xrays. Back on the Augmentin, scan galore booked and mutterings of "debriding", surgery for sure.
Wank buckets.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
or, basically, permanent disability.
Looks like I dodged the bullet on surgery.
Looks like I dodged the bullet on surgery.
This is a huge relief, seriously; waiting a month for all the tests etc to confirm that the large lump on my hand was not a tumour (and it was one of the possibilities), has been frickin awful.
Erm, anyone got size 43 feet?
No?
Pulled out my climbing stuff.....two left shoes. Fuuuuucccckkkkk!
Let's see what today brings as this extended stay is eating through my already limited annual leave.
I'm the opposite - stuck in the UK when I should be on the way to Spain. Damn French and their strikes.amen to that. Still, currently shoving pinxtos and San Miguel down my neck so could be worse.
something to do with staff cuts but done in a very francais manner I guess. Only matter of time before they take the MD hostage.
Let's see what today brings as this extended stay is eating through my already limited annual leave.
Yeah...the airlines don't reimburse that, do they!!! Do the French ATC folks even have a decent case or are they just being trés Francaise?
Makes my shoe thing seem even more trivial!
Golfer or tennis?
Feel your pain.
:jaw:
Glad you're ok!
+2..:jaw:
Glad you're ok!
+1
The end of my trip came sooner than expected.
Van totalled after turning over when two cars hit each other and ploughed into me in the south of France. No van, no home now and no Font. Shit end to what was a difficult but amazing seven months.
Gutted.
I also have pretty bad Golfers in my right arm. Not sure if it's in anyway linked.
Who diagnosed you Andy? A GP or a specialist? I was diagnosed with CTS in both wrists not so long ago as the result of a Nerve Conduction Study. They were well over keen on surgery which I declined. I'm convinced my nerve compression was due to Neck/Shoulder problems which they are going to explore with Physio. It hasn't effected my climbing yet, and to be honest the only annoying thing it causes is numb hands/fingers at night.
I also have pretty bad Golfers in my right arm. Not sure if it's in anyway linked.
Who diagnosed you Andy? A GP or a specialist? I was diagnosed with CTS in both wrists not so long ago as the result of a Nerve Conduction Study. They were well over keen on surgery which I declined. I'm convinced my nerve compression was due to Neck/Shoulder problems which they are going to explore with Physio. It hasn't effected my climbing yet, and to be honest the only annoying thing it causes is numb hands/fingers at night.It was my GP, but he was very thorough. I've checked online and all the symptoms fit. The CTS isn't affecting my climbing as much as the tendonitis. 28 years of trying your hardest is a bit wearing on the body. That and fingerboarding with a 20kg weight vest...
I also have pretty bad Golfers in my right arm. Not sure if it's in anyway linked.
along with early signs of duprytens.
That's a bit rubbish but seems to be the way everywhere is going.
Not to worry fried... get the replacement van in a couple of weeks, it's much bigger and has a log burner :beer2:
Fell off my bike last night. Broke my pinky finger on my non dominant hand. Bollox
That's some good news....not the same as sitting aroung a fire, watching the stars come out with a glass of pastis in hand, but a close second.
Fell off my bike last night. Broke my pinky finger on my non dominant hand. BolloxFell on my skis yesterday. Went down on an icy patch and went quite a way. Not sure I'll be full crimping or pinching for a while (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160501/c4ab922234833ebab4daeafe14bdb3ec.jpg)
Nasty Chris, hope it heals quick. At least the skiing season is pretty much over though
Dammit. After missing the Swizzy weekend with Fatneck & co., and after reading about my friend Filz's fire baptism on the grit, I am really longing to climb outside now.
I have a particularly beautiful memory of flashing Steep Traverse at Stanage many many years ago, goddammit, so good. The sun, the wind, I can recall every sensation on every hold, how it felt flowing and perfect, how my muscles responded to my non conscious mind in a robot-like way. Beautiful.
Now I'm sad.
Best part of six months off with what I thought was a minor finger tweak. Two weeks back and I tweak it again on a 6b. Bollocks.
Nice one Dom, it would be nice to come over!
I'll try to!
(http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_16270.jpg)
:thumbsup:
A "Best L.E.D / workkight" thread would be good.
Dammit. After missing the Swizzy weekend with Fatneck & co., and after reading about my friend Filz's fire baptism on the grit, I am really longing to climb outside now.
I have a particularly beautiful memory of flashing Steep Traverse at Stanage many many years ago, goddammit, so good. The sun, the wind, I can recall every sensation on every hold, how it felt flowing and perfect, how my muscles responded to my non conscious mind in a robot-like way. Beautiful.
Now I'm sad.
I'll be in Magic Wood from the 27th to the 31st of May - make a plan!
A "Best L.E.D / workkight" thread would be good.
This is what you want, Dave:
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/
topic,8731.msg500146.html#msg500146
I think the best value-for-money option is to go with two of the ones from Screwfix (£30) that Highrepute links to.
Dave, have you tried changing the bulb?
Dammit. After missing the Swizzy weekend with Fatneck & co., and after reading about my friend Filz's fire baptism on the grit, I am really longing to climb outside now.
I have a particularly beautiful memory of flashing Steep Traverse at Stanage many many years ago, goddammit, so good. The sun, the wind, I can recall every sensation on every hold, how it felt flowing and perfect, how my muscles responded to my non conscious mind in a robot-like way. Beautiful.
Now I'm sad.
I'll be in Magic Wood from the 27th to the 31st of May - make a plan!
I'm visiting Switzerland for the first time next weekend. Flying into Zurich then staying in Biasca. We'll climb at Chironico on Friday 27th; Cresciano on Saturday. Sunday's open and we might be at Magic Wood or doing something cultural in Zurich.
Thanks for the tip OMM, if nothing else, those those pictures will tide me over until better days. :-*
Shit! Bad pop Dave?
as bad as Agadoo ?
as bad as Agadoo ?
Weirdly, it's something in the ring finger that's gone
Weirdly, it's something in the ring finger that's gone
on the same hand as the pinkie that you put in the sling?
Just as my knee and wrist are almost healed, I went and played a cricket match for my work team last night (first cricket in 12 years). All that throwing has flared up my old rotator cuff injury :'(
Meant to be off to Devon this weekend, hope it's just a twinge that settles down. Last time I felt like this, I was out for two months :no:
Thanks Dave, was fairly achey so didn't push it too much. I think it's twinged a different bit of the rotator cuff to before as my thereaband exercises don't aggravate it. Returned with it hurting only marginally more than when I left so that's good I suppose! Got a physio appointment this week closing up my knee, I'll ask her what rehab I should be doing.Just as my knee and wrist are almost healed, I went and played a cricket match for my work team last night (first cricket in 12 years). All that throwing has flared up my old rotator cuff injury :'(
Meant to be off to Devon this weekend, hope it's just a twinge that settles down. Last time I felt like this, I was out for two months :no:
Hope it clears up enough for you to be able to make the most of the weekend.
I miss it down there.
Good luck! :)
Thanks Dave, was fairly achey so didn't push it too much. I think it's twinged a different bit of the rotator cuff to before as my thereaband exercises don't aggravate it. Returned with it hurting only marginally more than when I left so that's good I suppose! Got a physio appointment this week closing up my knee, I'll ask her what rehab I should be doing.Just as my knee and wrist are almost healed, I went and played a cricket match for my work team last night (first cricket in 12 years). All that throwing has flared up my old rotator cuff injury :'(
Meant to be off to Devon this weekend, hope it's just a twinge that settles down. Last time I felt like this, I was out for two months :no:
Hope it clears up enough for you to be able to make the most of the weekend.
I miss it down there.
Good luck! :)
We ought to sort out a UKB match sometime... :whistle:Haha, count me out (unless it's in another 12 years)...
Went to see the quack this morning, I'm now on high-blood pressure medication for the rest of my life. Wah.
I love beetroot, I never eat it though. Probably a good time to start. A quick scan of beetroot juice articles revealed heavy usage of words such as might,may, possibly...Can I not just eat it raw?
Went to see the quack this morning, I'm now on high-blood pressure medication for the rest of my life. Wah.
And you went from bouldering 6b to 7b... :2thumbsup:Went to see the quack this morning, I'm now on high-blood pressure medication for the rest of my life. Wah.
My sympathies. I've been taking pills to cure high blood pressure for a few year now.
;DBeen taking meds for high blood pressure for over 2 years now,linked to other health issues.Nibs is spot on with his comments above.
I understand it's a pain in the ass. But being weak is a bigger pain in the ass, if you get what I mean.
Possibly a question a bit late to ask now, but did you keep the dead tick? Useful for testing for a diagnosis.
Though bear in mind for anyone else reading that the target shaped rash appears for 80% of cases (as in for some it doesn't)..
(but glad it wasnt in your case..)
You look like a shark who needed a hug at the end there Simon :(
You look like a shark who needed a hug at the end there Simon :(
I've transcended shouting and swearing to a more desolate place
The last few sessions at eatswood I have been punting the final moves on the Reverse but took punterdom to a new level today.
Got to the end of the traverse fresh and had my right hand on the ledge and then did the cross through with the left arm to match on the ledge but instead of going over my right arm I somehow managed to punch my right wrist instead and promptly fell off.
:slap:
Got to the same point afterwards but pumped out. Oh well - progress of sorts. :(
www.youtube.com/watch?v=X56TQ_Rk4RQ
The best part is I'm sure plenty of folk do eatswood reverse finishing at the start position of the traverse (duh!), i.e. one hand in the crack. So you've already done the problem but didn't notice. Now THAT'S a punter.
How do you play the vid at full speed?
As someone of a greater vintage than shark I can tell you that's not slow.
Always seemed a no brainer to me to start the reverse at the point you finish the normal traverse, and finish it at the point you start the traverse, i.e. the definition of a reverse.
As someone of a greater vintage than shark I can tell you that's not slow.
Quite. The benchmark in slowness from my generation are Keith Sharples and Alan Murray.
Al Murray climbed on my board once. That was funny.As someone of a greater vintage than shark I can tell you that's not slow.
Quite. The benchmark in slowness from my generation are Keith Sharples and Alan Murray.
Paid by credit card? (Possible silver lining?)we paid our friends by bank transfer as they paid lowcostholidays as they did all the booking etc, unfortunately they paid by debit card, but they may be able to claim back through the chargeback scheme and their bank was fairly hopeful thismorning. Still as it's all inclusive and if we have to pay again, I'm going to eat and drink my money back... :alky: :pissed: :icon_beerchug:
As someone of a greater vintage than shark I can tell you that's not slow.
Quite. The benchmark in slowness from my generation are Keith Sharples and Alan Murray.
And, I am quite possibly the "New Baseline". A video of me on the problem would resemble an eerie Eastern-European stop-motion animation, perhaps one of a tramp who finds himself in a nightmarish world where he keeps falling sideways.
My only chance of climbing immortality is if the Olympic bid replaces the speed climbing element with the equivalent of a "slow bicycle race".
Paid by credit card? (Possible silver lining?)we paid our friends by bank transfer as they paid lowcostholidays as they did all the booking etc, unfortunately they paid by debit card, but they may be able to claim back through the chargeback scheme and their bank was fairly hopeful thismorning. Still as it's all inclusive and if we have to pay again, I'm going to eat and drink my money back... :alky: :pissed: :icon_beerchug:
I think it makes more sense starting at the ledge, especially if people want something closer to a 7C experience. The crack start position is arbitrary and even less logical now the landing has been cleared than it it used to be. Rubble Rouser starts from the ledge.
Maybe Kristian is right - the Original should start from the ledge.
fixedAs someone of a greater vintage than shark I can tell you that's not slow.
Quite. The benchmark in slowness from my generation are Keith Sharples and Alan Murray.is Geraldine.
This is the closest to a YYFY a NNFN post can get.
Looks steep!
It's not bad really but...Hah!
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161023/05f03e1eb77a5ae633eaf9f22218a726.jpg)
Butter wouldn't melt in his little mouth - but I caught the little f*cker marking his territory (aka pissing) all over one of my bouldering mats earlier :D
That probably means your scent on the mat smells like cat piss.
Dislocated my toe yesterday during karate. It was stuck out sideways last my little toe, and because it had gone so far it tore the skin under my toes too for good measure. It was a "little bit stingy" when it was out back in. But why it's a NNFN is that I'm supposed to be going to the Nottingham gin festival today and we've even got baby sitters.
Dislocated my toe yesterday during karate. It was stuck out sideways last my little toe, and because it had gone so far it tore the skin under my toes too for good measure. It was a "little bit stingy" when it was out back in. But why it's a NNFN is that I'm supposed to be going to the Nottingham gin festival today and we've even got baby sitters.
What are the rules for being drunk in charge of a mobility scooter Lagers?
What are the rules for being drunk in charge of a mobility scooter Lagers?
Bit of rock I've been waiting for ages to dry out was finally dry last night. After working a few moves I promptly snapped off the crucial starting hold. Any suggestions for gluing schist. Or is it granite? Andy?
I'm having my first day off work ill in over 6 years. Spent the night hallucinating with a fever on the sofa, and some sort of hybrid cold/flu mother fucker kicking my arse. Snot, snot, more snot, savage coughing that makes my eyes feel like they're gonna pop out my head, pressure in my head, weak as shit, constant thirst etc. I don't get ill, but when I do it flattens me.
Absolutely ruined, but hopefully through the worst today. Off to the shop for chicken soup and Lucozade soon!
Ginger tea with honey, lemon and whisky.And the tea.
You could probably skip the ginger, honey & lemon
I don't put any actual tea in ginger tea anyway. Otherwise yes.I was thinking of all that water polluting the nectar...
I don't put any actual tea in ginger tea anyway. Otherwise yes.I was thinking of all that water polluting the nectar...
Should laugh mate, but that's funny as fuck, and the type of stupid shit I do all the time.
Only 46!
A cursory google search doesn't throw up any systematic links between climbing and finger joint arthritis, so I guess I'm just unlucky.... although I prefer "special" ;D
After a few years of getting weaker on small crimps, X-rays show arthritis in DIP joints (not really a surprise and I've had a pretty good run, basically crimping the shit out of everything for about 30 years).
(not sure what happened there.. forum time has reset, can't edit?? - here's the whole thing)
Well, the visit to the specialist about my fingers was really as I expected, in that he essentially took one look and asked if I do any other sports... had a final go at the wall that evening and am forced to admit that even pulling gently on big holds hurts. Taping doesn't help and it's time to stop. :shit:
I've been prescribed a month of diclofenac gel to calm down the current inflammation, I've taken down the fingerboard and have bought new running shoes :goodidea: I might get back to doing easier routes one day, but at the moment I don't really want to - I'd always be worried about smaller holds, I'd always be looking at the hard routes next door and the doc made it quite clear that I have limited use left in my fingers. I have to economise what I have left as they'll never get any better. I could keep going for a while, my fingers aren't that bad, but stepping back now misses out a lot of frustration and avoids the potential for things getting really bad. I still need to be able to drive, use a computer and feed myself for quite a few years (all things that sometimes make my fingers ache now!).
I'll see you all over on Strava, and on the "One for the runners" thread :dance1:
Imagine an elephants foot bent at 15deg
Well, the visit to the specialist about my fingers was really as I expected, in that he essentially took one look and asked if I do any other sports... had a final go at the wall that evening and am forced to admit that even pulling gently on big holds hurts. Taping doesn't help and it's time to stop. :shit:
I've been prescribed a month of Voltarel gel to calm down the current inflammation, I've taken down the fingerboard and have bought new running shoes :goodidea: I might get back to doing easier routes one day, but at the moment I don't really w
The right wing along wih Lega Nord just won the elections for the Mayor in Siena.
A town with a strong libertarian, republican and antifascist history, just stepped into barbarity.
Oh, and it now costs £4.95 to report the loss and get a report for the insurance, because Devon and Cornwall police have privatised that function...
Matt, thank you, it sucks nonetheless.
I know it's global, but of course each one suffers for its own Country. Not to say that here we have a strong past with which many still have to seriously deal, so the stench of fascism is even less bearable.
The present right wing has undefined borders, that somehow, to a blind eye, allow them to always deny being fascists. But it's this lack of definition that allow them to sit in Parliaments here and there.
So, I use the term fascist to make clear that I know their game.
in 1938, a New York Times reporter warned: “When and if fascism comes to America it will not be labelled ‘made in Germany’; it will not be marked with a swastika; it will not even be called fascism; it will be called, of course, ‘Americanism’.”
Any advice for speeding recovery appreciated.
No advice on healing but if you get fed up with crutches these things are the biz
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=knee+scooter&rlz=1C9BKJA_enGB690GB691&hl=en-GB&prmd=sivn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwj2wYTtqKzdAhXJasAKHfYCBtwQ_AUIEigC&biw=1024&bih=653#imgrc=HD12JQFKqPbCpM:
During the operation they also found that myMake that the cruciate ligament. Otherwise they wouldn't have cleaned the insode of my knee... Collateral is the right knee...medial collateralligament was broken
Commiserations Coops. Sounds grim. Can you weightbear for the 6-16 week period?Yeah, should be able to start using it climbing mid Jan-ish I hope. Hobbling around at the moment, seems to range in pain from feeling fine to almost falling over...
How did you guys originally hurt your knees? They sound more like the injuries footballers rather than climbers get.Mine was from wear and tear playing rugby throughout my childhood and teenage years
My solution to this problem is the aforementioned £2k Saab shed. Amazing how stress free motoring is when you drive an effectively disposable vehicle.
This might produce a YYFY soon but I've been undergoing an unbelievably prolonged, opaque, and frustrating recruitment process for literally months - its totally fucking with our lives and I'm sick of it. Just had to get that out.
No, just a boring old university. Thanks for the good wishes.
No, just a boring old university. Thanks for the good wishes.
I’ve yet to experiencea Universityan organization with a competent HR department...
I’ve yet to experiencea Universityan organization with a competent HR department...
You're welcome.
Did you get the merchandise to Simon btw?
Shit Tom, that is not good! Is that across a particular School/Faculty? I think a number of places are going to be facing trouble sooner or later. A very accomplished friend of mine at Bangor is facing redundancy.
Shit Tom, that is not good! Is that across a particular School/Faculty? I think a number of places are going to be facing trouble sooner or later. A very accomplished friend of mine at Bangor is facing redundancy.
Thats in our faculty (that has a handful of departments) - but is in similar proportion across the University
As a matter of interest, how much is this related to the “B” word?
Presumably the Vice Chancellor is due for a pay rise?
Presumably the Vice Chancellor is due for a pay rise?
The one with the power...
Just had my wallet stolen out of my jacket pocket at the local wall here in Vienna. I guess I'm partly to blame as I didn't use a locker. Maybe I've been lucky not locking away valuables when at the wall for the last 15 years :(
Just had my wallet stolen out of my jacket pocket at the local wall here in Vienna. I guess I'm partly to blame as I didn't use a locker. Maybe I've been lucky not locking away valuables when at the wall for the last 15 years :(
Just had my wallet stolen out of my jacket pocket at the local wall here in Vienna. I guess I'm partly to blame as I didn't use a locker. Maybe I've been lucky not locking away valuables when at the wall for the last 15 years :(
I had my phone and all the cash from my wallet stolen from a locker at the Leeds Depot. Few years ago now. In fairness, I hadn't locked the locker, but still...
Just had my wallet stolen out of my jacket pocket at the local wall here in Vienna. I guess I'm partly to blame as I didn't use a locker. Maybe I've been lucky not locking away valuables when at the wall for the last 15 years :(
Fucking cunts, never heard of anything being stolen at a wall I’ve been to, Turnip is well known for leaving his belongings all over the place to no ill effect. Is there easy public access or would it certainly have been someone who had paid to enter?
Fuckers. At Boulderbar?
A gold chain necklace was dropped on the floor at the Manc Depot just outside the changing rooms a couple of years back. Surprisingly, it wasn’t handed in and wasn’t still there an hour later...
My missus left a £70 pair of climbing pants, a Moon hoody and a T-shirt at the Manc Depot a couple of weeks ago and they never got handed in...
I've left pair of £7 slazenger 3/4 lengths and my napalm death vest lying around all the time at the depot and they've never moved an inch :???:I wiped them around the urinals and then replaced them in exactly the same position!
I had my phone and all the cash from my wallet stolen from a locker at the Leeds Depot. Few years ago now. In fairness, I hadn't locked the locker, but still...
Fucking hell! One of the changing room ones?
I don't know where to go with this... :tumble:
We're (/were) buying a house. We're effectively a cash buyer. We have everything in place and searches etc. ongoing but the vendor has decided to go with someone else (a month after the offer was accepted) who the agent hasn't yet done due diligence on, and hasn't yet started the searches, when they're buying an empty property, with no chain at their end. It isn't even like we've been outbid.
I'm completely baffled and equally p*ssed off. Nat is in absolute pieces. It's such a rare property type (viable for Leeds and Preston, near climbing, outside space and buildings [think mega-board]) that it all feels like back to the drawing board.
I don't know where to go with this... :tumble:
We're (/were) buying a house. We're effectively a cash buyer. We have everything in place and searches etc. ongoing but the vendor has decided to go with someone else
Been in much the same situation, offer accepted, full survey & searches etc done, finances etc all in place, and the vendor had a row with her boyfriend and decided not to sell.
Ta for yet more kind words/wisdom.
Our nominal bump has been rejected. Vendor won't give a figure. Alternate buyer has not yet produced proof of funds. Something feels not quite right, like we're either being played (into a bidding war against ourselves) or, there are other factors at play.
I'm currently sat on the fence whether to use the last of my wiggle room (agent is suggesting we make a BAFO) or just to say f*ck it, that's our offer, good luck.
Ta for yet more kind words/wisdom.
Our nominal bump has been rejected. Vendor won't give a figure. Alternate buyer has not yet produced proof of funds. Something feels not quite right, like we're either being played (into a bidding war against ourselves) or, there are other factors at play.
I'm currently sat on the fence whether to use the last of my wiggle room (agent is suggesting we make a BAFO) or just to say f*ck it, that's our offer, good luck.
Just received unexpected invite to exclusive, invite only conference in Lake Tahoe. Almost certainly can't go.
Very true! Currently feeling much less regretful about declining an invitation to Japan.
Small fry given the state of the world, but....
Split a tin of peaches for pudding last night with the other half.
Later found out she had POURED AWAY THE SYRUP BECAUSE SHE DIDNT THINK I'D WANT IT!
Im in lockdown with this monster. Send help. And more tinned peaches.
A bit of a selfish NNFN given I’m still in work (for now) with decent pay...
But the regulation (IR35) which caused me lots of stress in the last 2-3 months where I was forced to change how I was employed, taking a huge pay cut in the process, has just been delayed by a year after being torn apart by the Lords & given the current Coronavirus problems.
So everything was needlessly changed and now I’m stuck on a new contract with much less pay and much few employment rights... I doubt my client will revoke their new policies & issue a new contract (despite no cost impacts to them other than paperwork to change contract).
All in all a bit of a pain!
Poking around for tenderness and comparing that to anatomical diagrams points me towards the scapholunate ligament as the source for pain. Which is more or less in the middle of the wrist. Of course I'll wait to get a proper diagnosis before taking any action though.
That someone has died is awful. The anxiety that is now hanging over us, the residents of the surrounding houses and businesses is also awful. We’re not expecting trouble tonight and the protest is arranged for Sunday, but...
That someone has died is awful. The anxiety that is now hanging over us, the residents of the surrounding houses and businesses is also awful. We’re not expecting trouble tonight and the protest is arranged for Sunday, but...
Hi there, I'm sure you're not equating the loss of property with the death of a human being but the emphasis in your statement is identical.
That someone has died is awful. The anxiety that is now hanging over us, the residents of the surrounding houses and businesses is also awful. We’re not expecting trouble tonight and the protest is arranged for Sunday, but...
Hi there, I'm sure you're not equating the loss of property with the death of a human being but the emphasis in your statement is identical.
I absolutely understand your anxiety Matt. I hope that, if there are any protests, they are peaceful.
It’s all very first world problem, all a bit middle class angst.
Only just seen this. Get a diagnosis pretty quickly and consider paying for a scan if advised. A completely ruptured S-L ligament has a relatively short window in which it can be reattached. After that it can only be reconstructed which is quite an invasive operation with poorer outcomes. It's not a ligament you can do without as a lack of one usually leads to problems. Don't want to scare you and it's probably not that if you did it pulling on a sloper (usually caused by falls onto outstretched hands), but it's something you want to get investigated just in case.
Just as things were starting to fall into place as I was getting back to strength, my wrist has flared up again. Think it may be from the cortisone shot wearing off :wall:8 months injured out of the 15 I’ve lived here and counting...Sorry to read that. From my personal experience, I strongly suggest that you stop the cortisone and look for a long term fix.
I've found a load of strengthening exercises that I've started and intend to continue with and have also contacted a movement coach for once I'm back on the wall... Also hoping to do some multi pitch trad while I'm getting back into bouldering
Mortgages are a pain in the arse...
Paid for the valuation on 1st September and was told it would be done within a week. Today was the 7th time it's moved since then with it now set for the 21st October. Hopefully I can get this brought forward again...
It means we now need to pay for everything else before knowing whether we've got the mortgage sorted. As it's a bank one we can't go for anyone other than their approved surveyor so there's not much we can do other than hope it doesn't get moved again.
While it doesn’t help your current problem, it’s worth raising a complaint about this. We had a similar issue with the survey holding up the mortgage and not actually seeing the survey before having to commit to everything else. We got money back from the surveyors and £500ish from the lender.
I've worked my ass off for two weeks on a single document for a lawsuit, sent everything off this late morning with 33 other separate attachments, each one with a separate digital signature, certifications, notifications, certified email data and everything, only to find out, upon having access to the digital folder, that the hearing, due for next week, has been postponed to may 2022.at least it's not all for nothing!
Now I want to cry.
NNFN!!!
While it doesn’t help your current problem, it’s worth raising a complaint about this. We had a similar issue with the survey holding up the mortgage and not actually seeing the survey before having to commit to everything else. We got money back from the surveyors and £500ish from the lender.
I think we will given how much back and forth and stress it causes. Good to hear you got a decent amount back from it!
The thing that annoys me a lot is that you call the bank and they take the money for the valuation. Then anytime there's an issue the response is that it's all handled by a third party and I'll need to contact them.
Luckily, someone finally said the bank could actually escalate it and it's now been brought forward to 8th October (the eighth time it's moved...).
Cheers, I appreciate, even though I'm struggling a bit to embrace your point of view...I've worked my ass off for two weeks on a single document for a lawsuit, sent everything off this late morning with 33 other separate attachments, each one with a separate digital signature, certifications, notifications, certified email data and everything, only to find out, upon having access to the digital folder, that the hearing, due for next week, has been postponed to may 2022.at least it's not all for nothing!
Now I want to cry.
NNFN!!!
If a hearing is delayed that long, does everyone involved just sit in limbo? That's insane.
If a hearing is delayed that long, does everyone involved just sit in limbo? That's insane.
If a hearing is delayed that long, does everyone involved just sit in limbo? That's insane.Basically, yes.
Could have been an angry seal?
Unemployed as of tomorrow and no useable bouldering mat. Curse you 2020.
Unemployed as of tomorrow and no useable bouldering mat. Curse you 2020.
Unemployed as of tomorrow and no useable bouldering mat. Curse you 2020.
Unemployed as of tomorrow and no useable bouldering mat. Curse you 2020.
:'( Good luck. At least you won’t catch Covid at work.
:'( Good luck. At least you won’t catch Covid at work.
Unlikely, wife and I have worked from home since March.
Nice, it's AEG HK654200FB
Cheers!
Feel your pain, we got use of a colleague / friend's cottage for a winter weekend, just as we were packing up I knocked over a bottle and it caught the very edge of the bevelled glass on the hob and cracked it right though. Weekend suddenly became very expensive.
Nice, it's AEG HK654200FB
Cheers!
Doesn't need to be AEG, but not does need to be a 32a induction, not at all bothered about the cost as I do a lot of cooking and I need it to not be annoying and shit!
I'm waiting on John Lewis getting back to me to see if they can source a spare top any cheaper (it's not a warranty issue obvs but I though JL might be nice and help out).
(PS. 32a .. 32A? Sounds very high.)
(PS. 32a .. 32A? Sounds very high.)
What do you mean high?
That’s just 1-9-22 on a 6mm campus board, or a 1hr 55 min front lever with a small Welsh Male Voice Choir performing on your ankles.
You know, warm up.
Sorry to hear that Matt.
Has the exercise you’ve been doing caused this - or has it come from nowhere/no cause etc.. if not then why not just carry on what you are doing (toned down a bit probably) and avoid the sitting/driving stuff that tweaks it?
Any idea how long the waiting list is? If its bonkers worth exploring private?? (No idea how much it might cost...)
Had ultrasound from PT today - he thought it looked like a full A2 rupture :'( No climbing from me for a while...
That is frustrating. Can you get a surgeon to fix it or is a conservative approach considered better?Conservative approach best I think. Don't think it's bad enough for surgery thankfully
Sadly not. Cylinder and piston are fu**ed. Hopefully nothing more. The ups and downs of two stroke engins...
Downclimb to new bouldering spot with DSLR in hand, one tricky step so hang it on shoulder step down and bump it with my knee as I step down. 30 ft drop into a shallow rockpool and my camera is fucked.
Plus side, new bouldering spot is fucking awesome.
That's the one. It's had a good innings. When can you leave :)
When was that BTW, was trying to work out how long I'd had it for.
Definitely a first world NNFN which is inconsequential in the grand scheme of things but... Just cancelled Asian honeymoon plans due to low likelihood of being able to travel there late summer - looking at closer opportunities now :'(
Thanks man, ah I hope you both get the psyche back to re-arrange it! We have our fingers crossed that Biden will allow our British contingent to attend ours...Definitely a first world NNFN which is inconsequential in the grand scheme of things but... Just cancelled Asian honeymoon plans due to low likelihood of being able to travel there late summer - looking at closer opportunities now :'(
Yeah, that's a bit crap. Fingers crossed you find something you both want to do.
We had to cancel the wedding and honeymoon last May, obviously due to covid - we've still not rearranged it and some days I wonder if it'll happen now.
Definitely a first world NNFN which is inconsequential in the grand scheme of things but... Just cancelled Asian honeymoon plans due to low likelihood of being able to travel there late summer - looking at closer opportunities now :'(
Yeah just booked Hawaii instead which will be sick but much more expensive :wall:Definitely a first world NNFN which is inconsequential in the grand scheme of things but... Just cancelled Asian honeymoon plans due to low likelihood of being able to travel there late summer - looking at closer opportunities now :'(
Guess Hawaii is part of the US? Sucks tho'
Cheers for the concern.. I am trying to keep hopeful - nothing was evident on the X-ray the day after, so I presume I haven't got one of the worst-case scenarios - a grossly displaced or non-union fracture. "Dr Google" can be misleading, but I've read reference for very light use of the afflicted arm being okay during rehab (<0.5kg loading) - and if typing and using a camera shutter is okay, i.e. using finger-tips while in a cast / splint, I can work.I’ve broken both of mine - no problems so far.
Fucking hell Nibs, cease and desist!You can bet I will.
Fast forward a few weeks and I lost a fight with a wardrobe, resulting in a torn bicep tendon (elbow), NNFN!!! Looking at either I) lots of physio and a slow recovery, or II) small operation, lots of physio and a slow recovery :wall:
I'd probably get it checked out further before cracking on with climbing. As above, scaphoid # can be very hard to see on any scans, but potentially bad news if untreated. IIRC some distil radius # are hard to see as well, and also a common one after FOOSH injuries. Not trying to worry you, if also may very well just be a bit bruised but a little more patience is rarely regretted in the long run.
A quick update; the long awaited consultation from my local GP on the radiology report was a text message "The followup Xray of your right wrist was normal. Best Wishes. Dr XXXX". No mention of any possibility it might still be broken or prognosis / advice on care .
So, I decided to do what I probably should have done from the start and informed my work healthcare insurance of the accident. Had a video interview with a GP later that day and he said the intermittant pain is probably internal inflammation but he'd refer me for an MRI just to make sure. Two days later, thanks to a cancellation, I had the MRI (which was a lot more "Event Horizon" than I was expecting) and am now waiting for the findings.
Trapezius? Blimey, good effort chipping your back! But seriously, sorry to hear about the trapezoid fracture, same one I fractured. No surgery, but healed well and I've never had any issues with it since.
trapezium (rather than trapezoid or trapezius!).
Good job you got that MRI Moose!
As I said in the YYFY thread I had a kind of burst fracture of the trapezium in my left hand that the consultant was not optimistic about but my hand adapted to it without medical intervention. The enforced rest sorted out a finger problem that I thought I was stuck with too.
IIRC your trapezium was completely mashed wasn't it?
I'm not sure if that means the prognosis is better or worse - sometimes these more "subtle" issues can have treatment problems out of proportion to their seeming severity!
My fear is that consultant will advise surgery if it isn't necessary (or vice versa for that matter). Is it presumptious to assume that orthopaedic surgeons always think orthopaedic surgery is the best option!?
I often wonder why we ask about injuries on here then ignore the advice.
QuoteAh well... at least I now feel better informed about my situation... and the w eather is too hot for climbing anyway (mind you, it's too hot for walking too really!).
When you originally posted myself and others said don't climb until further investigation. This isn't meant to be a personal dig but I often wonder why we ask about injuries on here then ignore the advice.
QuoteAh well... at least I now feel better informed about my situation... and the w eather is too hot for climbing anyway (mind you, it's too hot for walking too really!).
When you originally posted myself and others said don't climb until further investigation. This isn't meant to be a personal dig but I often wonder why we ask about injuries on here then ignore the advice.
I was expressing a slightly self- delusional view that I don't miss climbing - a bit of "whistling in the dark". I've been pretty careful with my injury (especially when you consider my NHS GP made no mention of any possible problems after the 'all clear' from the 2nd X-ray). Where have I said that I've been ignoring advice?
I often wonder why we ask about injuries on here then ignore the advice.
Have you seen the car thread? Rarely does anyone get any of the cars people recommend- they usually get the one they said they were thinking about in their first post. :lol:
QuoteAh well... at least I now feel better informed about my situation... and the w eather is too hot for climbing anyway (mind you, it's too hot for walking too really!).
When you originally posted myself and others said don't climb until further investigation. This isn't meant to be a personal dig but I often wonder why we ask about injuries on here then ignore the advice.
I was expressing a slightly self- delusional view that I don't miss climbing - a bit of "whistling in the dark". I've been pretty careful with my injury (especially when you consider my NHS GP made no mention of any possible problems after the 'all clear' from the 2nd X-ray). Where have I said that I've been ignoring advice?
On the YYFY thread I mentioned, as did some others, that it could be a Trapezium injury and recommended not to to climb until further investigation. You then did a Depot session ;). Anyway not really any of my business I suppose and I was in a grumpy mood when I posted yesterday. Good luck with the recovery.
Tendons - anyone have any useful advice in terms of recovering from partial thickness tears (distal biceps tendon)?
Tendons - anyone have any useful advice in terms of recovering from partial thickness tears (distal biceps tendon)?
That aside, if conservative management is the way forward, is there much I can be doing at this stage to help recovery?
Good job you got that MRI Moose!
As I said in the YYFY thread I had a kind of burst fracture of the trapezium in my left hand that the consultant was not optimistic about but my hand adapted to it without medical intervention. The enforced rest sorted out a finger problem that I thought I was stuck with too.
IIRC your trapezium was completely mashed wasn't it? The description of my injury reads unpleasantly but it was invisible to both X-rays and there seems to be little loss of strength in my thumb - it's more of a painful tweakiness with certain grips. I'm not sure if that means the prognosis is better or worse - sometimes these more "subtle" issues can have treatment problems out of proportion to their seeming severity!
My fear is that consultant will advise surgery that isn't necessary (or vice versa for that matter). Is it presumptious to assume that orthopaedic surgeons always think orthopaedic surgery is the best option!?
First day of half term! Yay! It’s been intense.
And a positive LFT, waiting on the PCR now :wall:
Just back from getting the results of my shoulder MRI... Turns out it's a complex SLAP tear (possibly 360 degrees!!)...
Consultant has recomended immediate surgery to reattach the tendons to the bone and was pretty amazed that I could even lift my arm, let alone climb!
Safe to say I'm absolutely gutted! Feel like I'm climbing pretty well, training is going well and most of all climbing is what's been keeping me sane through all this Covid business...
Recovery should be 3 weeks in a sling, no climbing for 3 months and 6 months before I can start training again...
Arse! :wavecry:
Just back from getting the results of my shoulder MRI... Turns out it's a complex SLAP tear (possibly 360 degrees!!)...
Consultant has recomended immediate surgery to reattach the tendons to the bone and was pretty amazed that I could even lift my arm, let alone climb!
Safe to say I'm absolutely gutted! Feel like I'm climbing pretty well, training is going well and most of all climbing is what's been keeping me sane through all this Covid business...
Recovery should be 3 weeks in a sling, no climbing for 3 months and 6 months before I can start training again...
Arse! :wavecry:
Just back from getting the results of my shoulder MRI... Turns out it's a complex SLAP tear (possibly 360 degrees!!)...
Consultant has recomended immediate surgery to reattach the tendons to the bone and was pretty amazed that I could even lift my arm, let alone climb!
Safe to say I'm absolutely gutted! Feel like I'm climbing pretty well, training is going well and most of all climbing is what's been keeping me sane through all this Covid business...
Recovery should be 3 weeks in a sling, no climbing for 3 months and 6 months before I can start training again...
Arse! :wavecry:
Regarding hyperbaric oxygen, the research in people with poor tissue oxygen supply through poor circulation is very persuasive. I'd buy a kit for my mum if she had peripheral vascular disease and leg ulcers. The research in people with soft tissue injuries but healthy circulation, not so much. Would I use it after shoulder surgery? Probably not if I was paying for it myself. I might try it if I had easy access like Fultonius or was advising a premiership football team with an almost infinite budget.Hmmmmmmmm :-\
Oh no! Scary sounding scan results. Dare I ask, if you're climbing pretty well and the training is going well, then why the surgery?
There’s a decent amount of info on SLAP tears and surgical outcomes on the interwebs now, a few trainingbeta podcasts cover options, from the surgical pov and physio pov. From memory of last time I trawled through the available info, there wasn’t much difference between surgical and physio outcomes. Surgeons are always going to recommend cutting you up, so may be worth having a good trawl of available info and getting a few opinions before going in.
Just back from getting the results of my shoulder MRI... Turns out it's a complex SLAP tear (possibly 360 degrees!!)...
Consultant has recomended immediate surgery to reattach the tendons to the bone and was pretty amazed that I could even lift my arm, let alone climb!
Safe to say I'm absolutely gutted! Feel like I'm climbing pretty well, training is going well and most of all climbing is what's been keeping me sane through all this Covid business...
Recovery should be 3 weeks in a sling, no climbing for 3 months and 6 months before I can start training again...
Arse! :wavecry:
Oh no! Scary sounding scan results. Dare I ask, if you're climbing pretty well and the training is going well, then why the surgery?
Regarding hyperbaric oxygen, the research in people with poor tissue oxygen supply through poor circulation is very persuasive. I'd buy a kit for my mum if she had peripheral vascular disease and leg ulcers. The research in people with soft tissue injuries but healthy circulation, not so much. Would I use it after shoulder surgery? Probably not if I was paying for it myself. I might try it if I had easy access like Fultonius or was advising a premiership football team with an almost infinite budget.
generally poorly vasculated:-\ :-\ :-\ I'm the generally poorly vasculated poster boy and there's a reasonably priced HBOT facility near me..... :-\
Was at the doctor earlier today about my slightly painful / crunchy kneecap.
Might be arthritis.
38.
Arse.
Always knew it was a risk after my knee surgery, but it's gone so well I thought I might have dodged that bullet.
Was at the doctor earlier today about my slightly painful / crunchy kneecap.Sorry to hear about that, as well about DD's SLAP tear.
Was at the doctor earlier today about my slightly painful / crunchy kneecap.
Might be arthritis.
Not one to moan but was mucking about with the kids at flip out Chester trampoline/parkour nonsense, and managed to completely rupture my right Achilles. :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall:Yes did mine a few years ago. Went to the fracture clinic in Hull saw a junior doctor who said we treat conservatively unless you are active. I explained I did it climbing and was pretty active. Despite this he said he was going treat conservatively.
I'm used to the occasional prang that's an occupational hazard in wilderness and highball bouldering, but this is a bit of a setback.
As lockdown informed myself, as well as a lot of us, that these little forays among the pebbles is important for our mental health... Well I'm in full innovative scheming mode.
Anyone else had experience of this particular kick to the balls? :shit:
Running up this thing, dumb thing was I'd already done it once
I tore my Achilles in August at the junction where it meets the calf muscle, 3 areas of damage which the specialist deemed not worth an op!!
Seemed pretty bloody bad to me
It's took 3 months of not doing anything to get a recovery to the point where I could walk properly without pain and now just starting to boulder and do very slow short runs which seem to be speeding the recovery not making it worse which is exciting!!!
Good luck with the recovery and just keep it raised as much as possible , the swelling will hopefully calm down in a few months
Not one to moan but was mucking about with the kids at flip out Chester trampoline/parkour nonsense, and managed to completely rupture my right Achilles. :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall:
I'm used to the occasional prang that's an occupational hazard in wilderness and highball bouldering, but this is a bit of a setback.
As lockdown informed myself, as well as a lot of us, that these little forays among the pebbles is important for our mental health... Well I'm in full innovative scheming mode.
Anyone else had experience of this particular kick to the balls? :shit:
Not one to moan but was mucking about with the kids at flip out Chester trampoline/parkour nonsense, and managed to completely rupture my right Achilles. :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall:
I'm used to the occasional prang that's an occupational hazard in wilderness and highball bouldering, but this is a bit of a setback.
As lockdown informed myself, as well as a lot of us, that these little forays among the pebbles is important for our mental health... Well I'm in full innovative scheming mode.
Anyone else had experience of this particular kick to the balls? :shit:
I'm a physio and ruptured mine on 20th Nov last year. I'm presuming you've had it potted, been referred to orthopaedics and placed on anticoagulants?? Any questions let me know. Good luck.
Not one to moan but was mucking about with the kids at flip out Chester trampoline/parkour nonsense, and managed to completely rupture my right Achilles. :wall: :wall: :wall: :wall:
I'm used to the occasional prang that's an occupational hazard in wilderness and highball bouldering, but this is a bit of a setback.
As lockdown informed myself, as well as a lot of us, that these little forays among the pebbles is important for our mental health... Well I'm in full innovative scheming mode.
Anyone else had experience of this particular kick to the balls? :shit:
I'm a physio and ruptured mine on 20th Nov last year. I'm presuming you've had it potted, been referred to orthopaedics and placed on anticoagulants?? Any questions let me know. Good luck.
Cheers sheavi
Due to being seen by Ysbyty Gwynedd's answer to Charlie from casualty within a couple of hours of my prang, I got to see the consultant the next morning and put straight in a vacuped.
Consultant was happy enough to leave me to manage my boots protocol and see me in 8 weeks. (Skinny climbers ankles so he could see pretty clear what was going on). However, as I was still in the shockish stage of things and talked a good spiel, I am slightly worried they've put too much trust in me 😋.
Anticoagulant was a shock as it's my first experience of doing my own injections. I'm sure I'll have lots of questions further down the road, but I'll probably DM you if that's ok.
The only thing that comes to mind at the moment is I keep weighting the boot, as crutches are never quite where you need them (or I need to carry a brew), am I going to hell?
The only thing that comes to mind at the moment is I keep weighting the boot, as crutches are never quite where you need them (or I need to carry a brew), am I going to hell?(https://medias.spotern.com/spots/w640/45/45807-1532336916.jpg)
The only thing that comes to mind at the moment is I keep weighting the boot, as crutches are never quite where you need them (or I need to carry a brew), am I going to hell?
LCL business of some sort.Welcome on board :beer2: :slap: :no:
:yes: :smartass: :yes: :smartass: :yes:Time to get really good at weighted pullups I guess.Time to be extra careful to take it steady and not go overboard on upper body training as compensation because I really really don't want any fucking upper body injuries as well, trust Fiend on that.
LCL business of some sort. Probably not a complete break but more a sprain or tear. May need surgery may not. On crutches. Leg would best be described as "fucked" but hopefully not too bad. Probably off climbing at least until the knee clinic/physio in a month. Time to get really good at weighted pullups I guess.
Do you even need one of you’re married to an EU national?
Most painful thing that has ever happened to me, and I have had 2 children!
Dislocated my shoulder at the wall last night. Knew I should have done something outside in the nice weather. Had to be sedated so they could get it back in so now feel like I have a stinking hangover as well as no sleep and a fucking sore shoulder. Most painful thing that has ever happened to me, and I have had 2 children!
Dislocated my shoulder at the wall last night. Knew I should have done something outside in the nice weather. Had to be sedated so they could get it back in so now feel like I have a stinking hangover as well as no sleep and a fucking sore shoulder. Most painful thing that has ever happened to me, and I have had 2 children!
10 days in and I'm having a little party as managed to put my own hair in a pony tail and get my arm in a jumper. An MRI has been ordered and I'm seeing a physio on Wednesday but I'm suspecting I have done something to my bicep too, initially I thought it was just stiffness from being in the sling but now it feels like more and is in some ways more limiting than the shoulder. Not sure if I should keep trying to move it or just leave it alone. The first of no doubt many ups and downs on the road to recovery (and if one more person even suggests that I'll not be climbing any more I shall punch them in the face with my good arm!)
Fell off with hands on the top of Back Bowden..
MRI on my shoulder revealed no ligament damage but there is cartilage damage on the cup and a humerus fracture.
They said recurring dislocation is a possibility and surgery was only an option if I did it a couple of times again. He wasn't willing to say I would get full use back, just that I might.
So I don't need an op and with some decent physio I should make a full recovery but at this point it hurts like hell, the thought of it happening again makes me want to vomit and the doc didn't seem particularly optimistic about me getting full use back.
So I have opened a beer.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CfZNJ9KPoWr/
Nope, the boulder they were climbing on got buried. After that apparently they ran about half a mile in their downturned shoes…
Nope, the boulder they were climbing on got buried. After that apparently they ran about half a mile in their downturned shoes…
That sounds really grim. I’ve had a lot of injuries, some varying from 6 months to 9 months off, but never quite the level of associated inconvenience you have there, battery. Very sorry to hear it. My one takeaway from many injuries, is this; with stubborn rehab, eventually, they fix.
Hold onto that thought.
That sounds shit. Sorry to hear it.
Would you also struggle with one of those unreasonably large bum bags? I'm assuming it's the carry straps that make the pack a no-go?
Thanks everyone. It's good to talk about it yes, husband is getting a bit fed up of hearing about it I think and because I appear for the most part normal on the school run most people have forgotten about it - if it was a leg and I was walking with a limp it would prompt more conversations maybe but it does all just feel a bit boringly shit right now!!
A bumbag is not a bad plan! Will see if my Pop still has his that he bought back in the day when they were all the rage!
Yes, motivating myself to do my exercises when they are so painful is hard sometimes but I am making myself have a go 3 times a day, even if it isn't for very long.
Poles might help too.
Seems weird that the recovery time is longer than a stress fracture, not that I’ve ever heard of someone having a bruised bone tbh.
Hope it get better quickly. I’ve heard slant boards are the silver bullet for knees.
There’s always pool running if you’re fully psyched!
Maybe look at getting some trainer with a bit of a stack for when you get back?
I had a few sessions with a guy who had done The Running School practitioner course, and he definitely highlighted some issues with my technique and I have had less (but not no!) injuries since.
https://www.physioparts.co.uk/muscle-power-slant-board?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIr8CTo-T5-wIViJ7tCh1wUQGXEAQYBSABEgL4cvD_BwE
Seth Demoor rated it for sorting his runner’s knee:
From 12 mins:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_xI6Wr9cEbM
Good luck Ed, and keep thinking of that freezing day at Brimham!
Meant to be going to Alicante in 4 days....:sick:
No refund on the ferry though :(