UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: haydn jones on September 03, 2017, 05:55:41 pm
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maybe he has climbed it, not 100% sure.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BYlfSbsl9Hq/?hl=en&taken-by=adam.ondra
also gaz parry on FB says he has.
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can anyone confirm this to be true, if its not mods delete this post
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ok this is now confirmed from BLANK... GET FUCKING PSYCHED 9c!!!!!!!!!
:strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench: :strongbench:
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Yes!
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Also confirmed by James Riley (whose out there) on Facebook :jaw:
Liking the gnomic instagram post!
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:o
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:strongbench:
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Amazing. Can't wait for the footage.
It's frightening to think that neither he or the cave has even reached maturity yet. This was the easiest of his projects.
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No way that's 9c. 8b into a kneebar into an 9b+ cannot be more than 9b+. By extrapolation (by quite a bit :lol:)
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As I looked through the Ondra posts on my Insta I noticed fellow leading sport climber Megos hadn't liked any of them. Yet he'd liked something else randomly in between them all. I reckon there's Defo beef there. Or maybe he's just bitter now he's two grades off the pace. :P
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9c :jaw:
https://www.facebook.com/adamondrafanpage/photos/a.880349645378884.1073741828.880346022045913/1449812308432612/?type=3&theater
Awesome stuff. What a beast. Cutting edge bouldering in the middle of a massive route. The future is now.
Edit: removed question mark from grade.
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That's a fanpage, not run by Ondra or his management. But fair enough, Ondra seems to confirm 9c : http://www.mytendon.com/adam-ondra-climbs-the-worlds-first-9c-515d
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I still find news like this totally inspiring. Its been an incredible couple of years, with the Dawn Wall (FA and repeat), Nalle climbing the Lappnor project, Honnold soloing El Cap and now this.
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Which one will be repeated first? Burden of dreams, Freerider solo or this? (I'd wager Burden of dreams if I were a betting man)
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That would be my bet too ... but its location might be a factor. A lot of the wads visit Flatanger pretty regularly.
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A lot of the wads visit Flatanger pretty regularly.
It does seem like it is the place to be in the summer but nobody has been able to do the 'easier' test pieces (Change, Move) yet so this one might be waiting a bit longer. Looks like Seb Bouin has been trying Move for a good chunk of the summer, no tick yet but maybe this will give him that extra bit of psyche needed!
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You see using Ted's logic 8b into a kneebar rest into 9b+ should be easier than the 9b+ on it's own, because he'll just be nicely warmed up by the time he hits the 9b+, so I'm sounding the armchair downgrade klaxon folks.
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Does a 7a to a kneebar to an 8a+ make an 8b? No. Clearly not. The 7a doesn't matter either way.
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That would be my bet too ... but its location might be a factor. A lot of the wads visit Flatanger pretty regularly.
How many of the wads have done more than one or two 9b? Sharma who's unlikely to leave Barcelona for long stretches of time, Megos who's unlikely to work anything for more than a few days, Schubert, who's busy with competition, Amma, who's quit climbing, and eh... I'm starting to draw blanks here... Gisolfi? who's also busy with comps.
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Does a 7a to a kneebar to an 8a+ make an 8b? No. Clearly not. The 7a doesn't matter either way.
It probably often does make an 8b, it's just that people sometimes kid themselves that the top bit would be 8b if were off the deck, which it wouldn't be... This is especially true when the upper section starts with a hard bouldery bit (or is a hard bouldery bit an nothing more). Off the top of my head I can think of a few things that roughly fit into this category.
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Does a 7a to a kneebar to an 8a+ make an 8b? No. Clearly not. The 7a doesn't matter either way.
It probably often does make an 8b, it's just that people sometimes kid themselves that the top bit would be 8b if were off the deck, which it wouldn't be... This is especially true when the upper section starts with a hard bouldery bit (or is a hard bouldery bit an nothing more). Off the top of my head I can think of a few things that roughly fit into this category.
Exactly. Or just a few big pulls.
Evo. Back int day Sellers linked from the block under the roof to the belay after just a few days. Then took 20+ days to redpoint the route.
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As I looked through the Ondra posts on my Insta I noticed fellow leading sport climber Megos hadn't liked any of them. Yet he'd liked something else randomly in between them all. I reckon there's Defo beef there. Or maybe he's just bitter now he's two grades off the pace. :P
Not to mention that he's pretending to ignore my deadhanging videos...
Must be a tough moment for him.
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As I looked through the Ondra posts on my Insta I noticed fellow leading sport climber Megos hadn't liked any of them. Yet he'd liked something else randomly in between them all. I reckon there's Defo beef there. Or maybe he's just bitter now he's two grades off the pace. :P
Not to mention that he's pretending to ignore my deadhanging videos...
Must be a tough moment for him.
It's just a theory for now until proven. :lol: Bitchiness must have always existed at the top. Moons overgrading article in OTE in the mid 90s is classic.
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As I looked through the Ondra posts on my Insta I noticed fellow leading sport climber Megos hadn't liked any of them. Yet he'd liked something else randomly in between them all. I reckon there's Defo beef there. Or maybe he's just bitter now he's two grades off the pace. :P
Not to mention that he's pretending to ignore my deadhanging videos...
Must be a tough moment for him.
Tell me there is an instagram with you staring down the barrel, curling your lip saying you're very happy!?
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Amma, who's quit climbing
Has he?
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Oh well, I just remember reading something he wrote about how he had no interest in difficult climbing anymore. He's still climbing off course (at a very high level as well, but not at 9b I think?)
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Interview with Ondra: http://emontana.cz/adam-ondra-9c-project-hard
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That would be my bet too ... but its location might be a factor. A lot of the wads visit Flatanger pretty regularly.
How many of the wads have done more than one or two 9b? Sharma who's unlikely to leave Barcelona for long stretches of time, Megos who's unlikely to work anything for more than a few days, Schubert, who's busy with competition, Amma, who's quit climbing, and eh... I'm starting to draw blanks here... Gisolfi? who's also busy with comps.
I hear Shark's been working it, but is struggling to get his ladder past the kneebar.
Probably not climbing fast enough.
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Another interview in English on Planetmountain.com: http://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/adam-ondra-climbs-worlds-first-9c-at-flatanger-in-norway.html
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Moons overgrading article in OTE in the mid 90s is classic.
Damn right ;D worthy of a scan and repost if anyone's got it, esp. in light of Ondra's FA...
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Moons overgrading article in OTE in the mid 90s is classic.
Damn right ;D worthy of a scan and repost if anyone's got it, esp. in light of Ondra's FA...
Standby, my powers of forum manipulation are weak but see if this works (from the 'Ben Moon interview thread circa 2013):
From OTE 53, Dec '95/ Jan '96.
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7435/10005386944_11e473ca5e_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/30866960@N03/10005386944/)
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5321/10005450686_a188a98ce4_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/30866960@N03/10005450686/)
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3736/10005507253_9437b5fb8f_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/30866960@N03/10005507253/)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7295/10005402615_8342fb85a7_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/30866960@N03/10005402615/)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7352/10005514003_c32cb142e2_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/30866960@N03/10005514003/)
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3794/10005376964_03779bfd36_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/30866960@N03/10005376964/)
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3801/10005374324_0febfe03e3_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/30866960@N03/10005374324/)
(http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7388/10005391585_3fd25dd0f6_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/30866960@N03/10005391585/)
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5483/10005435336_3f57c08830_b.jpg) (http://www.flickr.com/photos/30866960@N03/10005435336/)
[/quote]
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Enjoyed that, has anyone attempted to repeat Akira?
EDIT: Just found this: https://www.climbing.com/people/fred-rouhling/ Good read
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:2thumbsup:
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Interesting to read this now and looks like ben was right all along only the outcome has been totally opposite to what he was suggesting. All the routes he says are overgraded have pretty much stayed the same but the routes he was adamant were correct have gone up a level.
The chart from jibe is pretty close to perfect as well.
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Ye those French 8c+s stayed at 8c+ and Ben's British examples Sea of Tranquility and Liquid Ambar went up. And they've still had sod all ascents. Caff's done neither yet despite considerable effort (he did Big Bang twice remember ).
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Huber's routes have been mostly upgraded. They have all exactly one repeat, by some chez guy.
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Always loved Rouhlings cartoon in that article, hands down the best contribution.
Friends of mine in Targasonne knew him really well, put up or repeated most of the early 8s there. Undoubtedly was capable of climbing at or above the 8B mark way back. My friends said he was generally an incredible climber, but truly disturbing on his home stuff (where they had climbed with him on several occasions).
One of my friends who was a total roof specialist (did the second ascent of Fatman assis) put quite a bit of effort into Akira. His thoughts were that it was an 8B into an 8B with a crap rest on a 3 finger pocket in a roof between the two. Probably 8C boulder, which is how he saw it, as he thought the roped bit at the end was pointless. He built a vague training replica which looked disgustingly hard, don't think he ever linked further than half way through the 2nd 8B section.
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If correct, it would make Akira the first 8C boulder. :-\
Strange Ondra or Megos never tried (?) the route.
Despite not looking very attractive, its still the first claimed 9b.
21 years ago!
I remember Ondra mentioning the route in an interview (in the lines of to far away, not attractive iirc).
Rouhling climbing Autre Coté du Ciel: https://vimeo.com/10818933
Rouhling climbing (part of) Akira: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dSSxk71e-2k
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An aside from the topic, but you don't see quality articles like that in today's climbing media (print or digital).
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I like that Akira video. It's the only proof I've seen that Rouhling can link four hand moves on a climb.
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Fair play to Ondra on doing a hard route, but his post climb celebration game needs some serious work. Are we going to start a thread to replace YYFY with "I'm just really happy"? Are we fuck.
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:beer2:
Seb had a tin of cold beer with dinner but couldn't see one near Ondra - maybe he was on the vodka?
:please:
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Evo. Back int day Sellers linked from the block under the roof to the belay after just a few days. Then took 20+ days to redpoint the route.
Good to hear a vignette about Evo, I always thought Nic did Evo very quickly. I know he did some awesome links on the top wall but had thought the whole route rolled over pretty quick too. I guess the start to the block is only about V5.
My grading theories have changed over the last few years, adding anything into something hard seems to raise the bar disproportionately higher. The first few juggy pulls of Mecca up to the second bolt make it massively harder than going from sat on the 2nd bolt to the top. Many other examples out there
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Nic did evo in 6-7 days. It was progress that took him ages.
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Yes I heard it took Nic 40+ days for Progress, nothing by the standards of some of today's siegers!
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Ok so maybe he did block to top in a day or so? The point is adding just a few relatively 'easy' moves was significant.
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It's time on rock that counts. Especially when climbing into bouldery sequences. Doesn't matter if it's relatively easy. That's why it's slightly surprising Ondra did his route 3rd go from the bottom. Guess he was ready.
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It's cos he's fully embraced the way of the knee, and the associated blessings from the Gods that this brings with it. The route looks totally awesome, I love that the hardest thing in the world is novel, interesting looking climbing with inverts and all that kinda stuff. Old school hard cruxyness in a new school format.
On a totally off-topic tangent, I genuinely can't understand for the life of me how it's possible to do Evo in ~6 days and take ~40 on Progress. Was he using a whack sequence? Every move is utterly trivial compared to the moves on Evo!!
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Used to be more holds on Progress too. Jerry swooped in and swiped the FA quicktime. :wub:
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It was more like 20 days including all the cleaning, glueing etc and over two summers of Kilnsey on off wetness etc. Plus its was to be a 1st ascent before Jerry nicked it.
As far as i can remember it was the longest time nic spent on anything with most others taking sub 5 other than evo. It was also the last hard thing he did as i guess it finished him off. He got into "trad Bollocks" (his quote) after that.
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We have a name, 'Silence'. https://www.instagram.com/p/BYxqK3NFG6n/
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I'll believe it when I hear it.
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Shit name.
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it doesnt resonate for me...
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I heard he rested at the kneebar for 3:44mins.
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I heard he rested at the kneebar for 3:44mins.
Do you mean 4:33 mins?
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I'm gonna go with Pete's tactic and say that was clearly a joke and not a huge mistake.
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Well I laughed, so I'll give you it...
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B+ for effort, F- for research, Dave :spank:
I quite like the name, but I liked Project Hard more....