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the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => Topic started by: User deactivated. on August 08, 2021, 06:04:00 pm

Title: Finger strength experts/nerds: MCP joint angle in half crimp training
Post by: User deactivated. on August 08, 2021, 06:04:00 pm
I've noticed during my hangboard training that my half crimp ends up close to a full crimp without the thumb on my hardest sets. The MCP joint is flexed, and my wrist is extended and in ulnar deviation. If I keep the MCP joint and wrist straight I'm quite a bit weaker. Does it matter? Will training one over the other give greater training adaption, or better results on rock?

I probably go to this position as I used to be a full time full-crimper on the wall. I don't abuse full crimp quite as much anymore but will still fall back on it when I need more power than my other grips can muster!
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