UKBouldering.com

the shizzle => news => Topic started by: (woz) on May 07, 2008, 10:47:11 am

Title: eatswood Additions
Post by: (woz) on May 07, 2008, 10:47:11 am: I did a few new(?) problems at eatswood over Easter. Nothing special, but may keep you occupied for an hour or two:
Topo: http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2005/2473429986_f1e5113697.jpg?v=0 (http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2005/2473429986_f1e5113697.jpg?v=0)
Sublux - 7b+
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2132/2472613293_3483e2a86d.jpg?v=0)
Pen Six - 7c
(http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3228/2472608049_72e0b83638.jpg?v=0)
Farmer's Pride (the L arete of the overhang) - 5+
(http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2072/2473429418_c840852773.jpg?v=0)

NB: This doesnt mean that the access situation has changed, but there are several other threads on that matter.
Title: Re: eatswood Additions
Post by: SA Chris on May 07, 2008, 10:50:54 am: Has that bloke in the pic just eaten an icecream?
Title: Re: eatswood Additions
Post by: dave on May 07, 2008, 10:55:15 am: they all look well good. nice find.
Title: Re: eatswood Additions
Post by: (woz) on May 07, 2008, 11:21:06 am: cheers dave.

I almost forgot, i have a (shit quality) video of the traverse. http://youtube.com/watch?v=HJyvGoYYijI (http://youtube.com/watch?v=HJyvGoYYijI)
I've changed my mind on the grade since then.

Chris: ice cream? you have lost me there.
Title: Re: eatswood Additions
Post by: SA Chris on May 07, 2008, 11:58:46 am: (very white 'tache). Sorry, off topic.

Look good actually.
Title: Re: eatswood Additions
Post by: mark on May 07, 2008, 05:51:21 pm: For those who have heard the joke:
Looks like you've blown a seal, mate.
Title: Re: eatswood Additions
Post by: SA Chris on May 08, 2008, 08:07:40 am: He does look cold!
Title: Re: eatswood Additions
Post by: Andy B on April 14, 2009, 10:46:07 am: I climbed a new problem here last week.

Culpeper's Practice is about 7c, and is on Nod's Buttress, which is found towards the right end of the crag, before you reach Woz's problems. Nod's Buttress is a big slabby wall with a long roof running along it's base, and has a distinctive smooth side wall with two diagonal cracks running up it. The buttress' left arete from sitting is mentioned in Ru's guide at 6b and is excellent. Culpeper's Practice climbs the roof and wall a couple of metres right of this.

The roof has an obvious juggy rail running through it, taken by a good looking E1 of Bonjoy's. For Culpeper's Practice, start by reaching the flake at the lower left end of the rail, and work up and left on crimps then slopers, making for a large, shallow, open scoop in the middle of the slab. once there, finish more easily up the slab above to the large break of Holly Tree Traverse.
Title: Re: eatswood Additions
Post by: Bonjoy on April 14, 2009, 12:59:17 pm: This is a quality problem. I've got some footage of attempts before the ascent and will post up when i get a chance.