UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: account_inactive on January 07, 2008, 01:17:33 am
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Lankashire rock star Ryan with more big numbers. Effort yoot
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I assume you mean the small arete thing at Stanage?
Only a matter of time really. Well done Ryan, as ever :thumbsup:
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nice work!
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good steez. anyone know if this is a ground-up or headpoint?
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I was told this the other day at the plantation and then told he hadn't. Is this confirmed Dylan?
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If it wasnt before, then it was on sunday. Ed Robinson has footage...
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Awesome shit.
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At this rate JB will be the last to do it
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At this rate JB will be the last to do it
:lol:
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good steez. anyone know if this is a ground-up or headpoint?
I very much doubt he will have headpointed it.
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Oh and its Careless Torque Dylan. tut tut.... ;)
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Twas ground up! The most inspiring thing I have seen in climbing yet. Ry was psyched to say the least. Top effort it was!!
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Pic from thursday's warm-up sesh. All this talk of tall people struggling to reach the hold ain't helping my psyche...
(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/Climbing/ryan-1.jpg)
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Think Grandad Andy got some gooduns of you on it. Don't lose the psyche!! Absolutely no reason to.
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(http://www.aspe07.dsl.pipex.com/torque1.jpg) (http://www.aspe07.dsl.pipex.com/torque2.jpg)
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This thread needs more pictures.
What I'd really really like to see is people turning the lip/mounting the beast.
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(http://www.aspe07.dsl.pipex.com/torque.jpg) (http://www.aspe07.dsl.pipex.com/torque0.jpg)
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8)
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The new and improved Jim speaks only in pictures, I like your style J-Man.
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please don't taint my name with -man
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How about Jim_e?
Is there any video footage of an ascent of Careless Torque anywhere?
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he must know thats your name, just as ned is n-man.
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I know a J-Man that's all. You can have J-Bot ;)
That's an ominous sky you've captured there, nice.
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(http://www.aspe07.dsl.pipex.com/torque2.jpg)
Surely you can just tick it from there?
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(http://www.aspe07.dsl.pipex.com/torque2.jpg)
Surely you can just tick it from there?
only if you've built a patio underneath.
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But let's not get carried away now,
this problem's antique and you'd think that being so close to wad town someone would've found time over the last decade+ . . .
Anyone for Cobalt Dreams then?
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please don't taint my name with -man
It's not a tainting just a distinct lack of imagination.
he must know thats your name, just as ned is n-man.
Fabulous. If people think I'm Ned perhaps I'll be a little more forth coming with opinions.
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What I'd really really like to see is people turning the lip/mounting the beast.
Tall man's sequence. Only the flexible need apply.
(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/Climbing/ryan.gif)
Jvan's sequence ( and Ron's original, I think), which seems to be better for the shorter, uses left foot on a lower, worse foothold, toehook with right foot, boule over with right hand, hold barn door (photo), step through onto better footlhold with right foot, layback up. Technically a bit harder, but less brutal, and less balancy to stand out.
(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/Climbing/Ivan.gif)
There used to be a vid of Andy Brown's ascent on the web somewhere, maybe on the Beardown site? Can't find it now.
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I had that somewhere but think it got deleted due it being very low quality
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I've got a copy of that Andy Brown clip - it's a pretty low res wmv (2mb) if anyone wants it.
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he also grounded up Angels share not so long ago too.
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he also grounded up Angels share not so long ago too.
Rascal?
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Tall man's sequence. Only the flexible need apply.
(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/Climbing/ryan.gif)
Jvan's sequence ( and Ron's original, I think), which seems to be better for the shorter, uses left foot on a lower, worse foothold, toehook with right foot, boule over with right hand, hold barn door (photo), step through onto better footlhold with right foot, layback up. Technically a bit harder, but less brutal, and less balancy to stand out.
It sounds like Ron's beta is what i've tried, failing at the "boule over with RH" step. From the Ryan gif i can't make out how he goes from having LH pinch and RH sloper to having both hands on the arete and left foot really high. question?
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I've got a copy of that Andy Brown clip - it's a pretty low res wmv (2mb) if anyone wants it.
I'd be interested. Can you upload it somewhere?
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he also grounded up Angels share not so long ago too.
Rascal?
nah the pope ::)
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he also grounded up Angels share not so long ago too.
Ground upped?
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thats the one
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he also grounded up Angels share not so long ago too.
Rascal?
nah the pope ::)
sorry love
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I've got a copy of that Andy Brown clip - it's a pretty low res wmv (2mb) if anyone wants it.
I'd be interested. Can you upload it somewhere?
Download it here: www.cadreweb.co.uk/carelesstorque.wmv
I won't leave it there for long, I'll remove it in a week or so. Cheers!
Ian
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Nice gif JB. Who is it climbing? Looks to me like a latter day Paul Pepperday.
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good job ena with the vid.
sounds like the wind was a bit strong!
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From the Ryan gif i can't make out how he goes from having LH pinch and RH sloper to having both hands on the arete and left foot really high.
Well just so you have no more excuses, here you go, I've added a couple more frames.
(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/Climbing/ryan2.gif)
Plus, here's the shot I meant to include with this:
Jvan's sequence ( and Ron's original, I think), which seems to be better for the shorter, uses left foot on a lower, worse foothold, toehook with right foot, boule over with right hand, hold barn door (photo), step through onto better foothold with right foot (same foothold as ryan, but t'other foot), layback up. Technically a bit harder, but less brutal, and less balancy to stand out.
(http://www.zen59200.zen.co.uk/Adam/Galleries/Climbing/Ivan.jpg)
Who is it climbing? Looks to me like a latter day Paul Pepperday.
No, no, its Pepperday himself!
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Good beta gif!
I guess being a bit flexible helps.