UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: account_inactive on August 06, 2009, 05:43:22 pm
-
If my source is correct...............today by the ever weak McClure :o
-
I'm surprised your source noticed, as she was chatting to my source all the way through the ascent ;).
It all looked pretty smooth and steady, if I didn't know what it was, I would never have guessed it was as hard as it is from watching Steve on it!
-
he's such a punter. as he almost ticked the crag?
-
Effort.
-
not bad for a punter. Good skills.
-
Wow. How many punters have done this now?
-
moon
smith
jah-skins
dunning
troy mclure
any more?
-
Did Simpson do it or not? (I dunno, I'm just asking).
-
I think he did. knew i must have missed someone.
-
:bow:
good to see any video... not seen it done and it would be cool to see..
-
good to see any video... not seen it done and it would be cool to see..
You need to buy the 80's, Birth of Extreme!
-
no.
I want to see the whole thing, filmed move by move, with the most recent ascent.
god knows why.. never ever been on my radar.. curiousity I suppose.
-
NO! YOU WANT TO WATCH BEN MOON DOING HIS ROUTE, AND DOING IT IN ALMOST CERTAINLY THE LEAST EFFECTIVE WAY POSSIBLE!
:P
-
didn't some renegade bullshitter claim an ascent of hubble a few years ago. not si o' but I think it was someone of a similar fantasy calibre. can't remember the name. anyone remember?
-
I believe it is this horseshit (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,2958.0.html) of which you speak.
NO! YOU WANT TO WATCH BEN MOON DOING HIS ROUTE, AND DOING IT IN ALMOST CERTAINLY THE LEAST EFFECTIVE WAY POSSIBLE!
:P
People shouldn't underestimate how much harder Ben's fucked up way of doing the crux was than the completely logical way that everyone else has (I presume) used since. Hubble is considered hard for 8c+. Ben's way must have been more like 9a. Or put another way it's an 8B boulder problem but Ben's way was 8B+ fo sho.
Oh and good effort Steve. :bow:
-
I'm pretty sure that Steve did the Hubble crux the same way as Ben because he found it easier than the other way. At least that was the way he'd been working it. I'm stoked for him. Only my route left and he's ticked the Tor...
-
has he done jehovakill then? thats not dry very often by the look of it. (or that E5 traverse?).
-
I'm pretty sure that Steve did the Hubble crux the same way as Ben because he found it easier than the other way. At least that was the way he'd been working it.
He's quite small though isn't he? I can see how it might make sense if you're shorter but certainly not if you're Ben's height.
Actually, no I can't. So he did it with both feet on?
-
Yes, both feet on.
He did Jehovahkill years ago. It actually used to dry out back in the day. When I did it in 2002 ish it had been dry all summer.
-
i think we should seriously consider renaming the crag after him. Steven Tor? Raven McTor? Steven McRaven? Macca?
-
Yes, both feet on.
:o
Well that's even more :bow: :bow: then. Can't believe he found it easier that way!
-
Yes, both feet on.
He did Jehovahkill years ago. It actually used to dry out back in the day. When I did it in 2002 ish it had been dry all summer.
nice. how about hooligan?
has he done all the bouldering too?
-
And Hooligan? I thought that had only had two ascents or something?
-
what about hooligan?
-
And Hooligan? I thought that had only had two ascents or something?
Yeah, good point. Forgot about that. There's that Jerry E7 too.
-
he'd better be quick on the E7, i've heard plenty of talk at the crag about that getting retrobolted.
-
Verbal Abuse?
And don't say "No. Just talk about it being retrobolted." ;)
-
since we are on the matter, would it be possible to put 'birth of the extreme' and 'buoux 8c' on digital so that a lonesome, sad, climbing deprived italian could start again thinking that life is good and that one trains for actually climbing on rocks?
:'( :'( :'(
ps great great great effort.
-
apparently he has'nt done Hooligan.
-
i stumbled upon this.
http://www.kabsi.de/klettern/hubble_e.html (http://www.kabsi.de/klettern/hubble_e.html)
free solo ascent of hubble??????????
wtf?
-
What!?
Amazing news on Steve!
-
since we are on the matter, would it be possible to put 'birth of the extreme' and 'buoux 8c' on digital so that a lonesome, sad, climbing deprived italian could start again thinking that life is good and that one trains for actually climbing on rocks?
:'( :'( :'(
ps great great great effort.
just buy the DVD word. its worth getting.
-
i stumbled upon this.
http://www.kabsi.de/klettern/hubble_e.html (http://www.kabsi.de/klettern/hubble_e.html)
free solo ascent of hubble??????????
He even does reps on the crux.
-
That's where his elaborate ruse comes unstuck as that isn't the crux.
-
I bow to your better knowledge. The whole thing looks like a bloody great crux.
-
Never mind Jehovah Kill, Seraphim, Verbal Abuse or Hooligan. Are you sure Steve's done 1, 15, 7, 9, 14?
-
Never mind Jehovah Kill, Seraphim, Verbal Abuse or Hooligan. Are you sure Steve's done 1, 15, 7, 9, 14?
:lol:
And what about "Malc's One-armer"?
-
After having a p** (me, as every climber I dare to say, have to relieve myself before starting a hard climb) I did some turns on an easy warm-up boulder ("power band"), in order to prevent injuries on the upper limbs.
The p** interests me, does he mean pie? Fair play, he's done an awesome effort on that gif.
Top skills to Steve M. for actually doing it.
-
I don't believe anyone has posted this link yet of Steve's send... so here we go...
http://vimeo.com/6099222 (http://vimeo.com/6099222)
I've watched both Ben's accent and also Steve's, it seems that they use a slightly different sequence at the bottom, going into the first 2 small undercuts. Ben goes left hand up first and matches with the right, but Steve goes to the right undercut first. The last crux is the same on both sends as far as I can make out, except that Steve uses a higher smear for the right foot, and misses the intermediate press that Ben uses. At least that's what I make of it anyway!
What a beast.
-
:bow:
-
I don't believe anyone has posted this link yet of Steve's send...
Must have missed it (http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,4660.msg214646.html#msg214646) but its well worth posting again :)
-
Hehe I knew it must have been up somewhere already.. I must have searched youtube for years trying to find footage of hubble, only to find tiny grainy images of Gaskins on the final crux... It was only 2 months ago I finally watched 80's birth of extreme. The more people who get to see this route the better! My lifetime goal :thumbsup:
-
Second, it's a big deal for me as it's totally against my strengths. I'm rubbish at bouldering and I'm relatively weak and use technique to get up stuff. Hubble can't be tricked!
really weak.
rubbish at bouldering. hmmm.
-
yes steve can no longer claim to be weak, ha!
-
Second, it's a big deal for me as it's totally against my strengths. I'm rubbish at bouldering and I'm relatively weak and use technique to get up stuff. Hubble can't be tricked!
really weak.
rubbish at bouldering. hmmm.
Shit my false-modedty alert has just gone to defcon3. I wish I was rubbish at bouldering.
-
I've watched both Ben's accent and also Steve's, it seems that they use a slightly different sequence at the bottom, going into the first 2 small undercuts. Ben goes left hand up first and matches with the right, but Steve goes to the right undercut first. The last crux is the same on both sends as far as I can make out, except that Steve uses a higher smear for the right foot, and misses the intermediate press that Ben uses. At least that's what I make of it anyway!
I haven't seen that video but I think you might be wrong there.
Shit my false-modedty alert has just gone to defcon3. I wish I was rubbish at bouldering.
It must be shit only being able to boulder 8B+.
-
What sport dragons are the left for Steve Le Mac to slay in the UK? He needs to get to the Anvil now the midgies are starting to abate.
-
There are a few at LPT.
-
big bang at lpt! i been shooting pete r on la from it and it appears to be really really difficult.
-
Steve's been on it hasn't he? Big Bang sounds truly horrendous. Bet it's interesting to see up close.
-
Shit my false-modedty alert has just gone to defcon3. I wish I was rubbish at bouldering.
It must be shit only being able to boulder 8B+.
In fact if we do that math, Steve has bouldered 8b+, and whats the current top level, 8c+? So he's two grades off the maximum ever acheived there. But in routes he's done what, F9a? And the top level is F9b+? so he's 3 grades off the top in routes. So based on that, if he's rubbish at anything, its routes.
-
What a punter.
-
Don't want to start a 'peak' 'peaks' debate but can we use 'maths' because 'math' just grinds so much?
-
don't worry, it was used in irony.
-
But in routes he's done what, F9a?
I thought overshadow got 9a+?
-
big bang at lpt!
I had it in my head he had done it. Get on it loon.
-
But in routes he's done what, F9a?
I thought overshadow got 9a+?
it does, so he's as shit at routes as he is at bouldering.
-
But in routes he's done what, F9a?
I thought overshadow got 9a+?
he needs to update his website then:
http://steve-mcclure.com/ (http://steve-mcclure.com/)
I suggest the tagline of "Steve McClure: Shit At Everything". Thats SCIENCE for you.
-
it does, so he's as shit at routes as he is at bouldering.
Wish I was shit like him. He still hasn't done Nik's Wall though.
-
big bang at lpt! i been shooting pete r on la from it and it appears to be really really difficult.
Big Bang has surely got to be the most sort after repeat in the UK. I remember the write up in OTE when Neil Carsons did it in '96 and it never really seemed to get the respect it deserved. I remember another article with pics of Ben Moon having a go on it, not sure who else has tried? Rich Simpson?
-
There's alway's Total Eclipse and the full version of Totally Free, going the same way as JD but without the glued on/off hold.
-
theres violent new breed too that will take some repeating, i couldn't see the holds let alone how JG did it.
-
In fact if we do that math, Steve has bouldered 8b+, and whats the current top level, 8c+? So he's two grades off the maximum ever acheived there. But in routes he's done what, F9a? And the top level is F9b+? so he's 3 grades off the top in routes. So based on that, if he's rubbish at anything, its routes.
Has Steve bouldered 8b+? On routes he's done 2 9a+ first ascents and except for that 80m thing in the south Spain we're only just starting to get 9b routes claims (Sharma things and Akira (sp), anything else? ). The false modesty claim does have some point but it does appear that within the UK while there are quite a few people bouldering at a similar / maybe harder grade than Steve nobody is even close to him on routes - he's done classic looking 9a's and 9a+'s at the 3 major sport crags in this country and there's hardly anybody good enough to even try them never mind get them ticked.
-
Is that close of business thing 8b or +? The point is he's not shit at anything.
-
worth remembering he's no trad punter either. although he probably says he is.
-
Steves has no interest in big bang at the mo.That headwall is too sharp and conditions dependent. Shame cos can t see anyone else doing it.
-
Don't think steve has done Moffats route liquid ambar has he? That must be desperate if he hasn't done it...Doesn't that route now be regarded as 8c+ and if so this makes it the worlds 1st 8c+ if it was done in 1988?
That footage of steve on hubble is brilliant. The music from one summer makes it even better. Awesome.
-
Liquid was 1990 i think. The 3 ascentionists said 8c,moffatt,moon and simpson.All quite old school with their approach to grading though.Nic sellars had 3 days on it when he was at the height of his sport powers and said a top end 8c.Steve has had one day on it. Undoubtedly it would be 8c+ at many crags.
-
worth remembering he's no trad punter either. although he probably says he is.
Ste Mac in yet another modesty shocker. ;)