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power club / Re: Power Club 751 29 April - 5 May 2024

« Last post by Aussiegav on Today at 05:55:23 pm »

Thanks Duncan

Monday -

Finger board on 18mm edges
6x 10s hangs. 
4 hangs at a total weight 79kg.
2 hangs at 84.5kg.
Effort level 7/10

Tuesday
Elbow strength training

Wednesday
Rest

Thursday
Fingerboard on 18mm edge. Half crimp
Six 10sec hangs. Total weight 82.9kg. Felt good. 7/10 effort level
 
40min peloton Tabata ride



Friday

Saturday
Golden Wall
The wall &  the climbs were better than expected. Enjoyable afternoon with Phil.

Undiscovered Blacks   5c   Lead β
Poison Flowers 6a+ Lead β
Black Bryony   6b   Lead β
Blinkin' 'eck 6b+ Lead β
The Blicks   6b   Lead RP   failed Onsight, did next go
Really enjoyed Golden Wall. Did all bar 1 route which looked the worst of them all. Which I’d not return for, but overall, I’d recommend a visit if your operating in the 6’s and want a 4 hour session on rock.

Wanted to climb at 3new crags in the Peak this year. Done two already.


Sunday
Strength training at Virgin Gym
Upping the weights. Elbow strength increasing.

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power club / Re: Power Club 751 29 April - 5 May 2024

« Last post by monkoffunk on Today at 05:37:04 pm »

M - Yoga
T - Gym, deadlifts, weighted pull ups etc.
W - Yoga. Rest.
T - Few recruitment pulls and body weight hangs.

F - Portland in the evening. Back to the Snowflakes boulder to try the project along the lip. Worked the moves to warm up. After a couple of false starts to get back the knack for the first move, the problem went. Liberal Agenda, 7A+ first ascent.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C6ifTEnNJOn/?igsh=a2wxOXRkOGY2NmNz

A good line, probably overlooked due to its location off the beaten track (hidden in a pit) and somewhat awkward landed above a block. Then repeated Snowflakes, mostly for the grade comparison, but also adding proper blinkers at the top to just use the small crimps on the arête as per FA.

After this went to try a couple of 7Bs, Bordo Della Terra and Workshy. Bordo went well. Reassuringly I did almost all the moves on the 7B bit, and the moves I didn’t do were mostly on the start shared with a 6C+. Here my serious lack of finger tip skin integrity let me down. Not enough rock or plastic. Too much friendly wood.

Workshy somewhat further away, but still an improvement on when I tried it a few years ago! One move to do but it’s a proper crux, by far the hardest move on the problem, and essentially what the problem is all about. Perhaps not quite enough juice after everything else, will try again another day.

Definitely helped me to confirm that Snowflakes and Liberal Agenda are both in the 7A+ bracket and not hard for the grade. First move is a bit of a stopper though so I think 7A+ probably is justified.

S - Rest.
S - Yoga and rest

Very happy with the week, only my second first ascent and the other was eight years ago.

Going to take a few rest days now as been feeling the elbow extensors a little bit recently when training, nothing bad, but need a bit of a de-load.

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news / Re: Significant First Ascents

« Last post by Fultonius on Today at 05:25:46 pm »

Darth Grader reckons that converts into 8c+ route, and then running through E-Grader makes it Easy E11 with pads.

But since the 7B bit is the dodgey bit, maybe E6? Or would it be E4? Maybe E7? 

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music, art and culture / Re: Books...

« Last post by SA Chris on Today at 04:47:15 pm »

I've just finished a book I think a lot of people here might enjoy (indeed, might have read already). In 1950s Togo, a young boy has a nearly deadly encounter with a snake, recovering he reads a book about Greenland and becomes obsessed with travelling there. In 1958, aged 16, he ran away from home and spent the next eight years working his way through Africa and Europe before eventually reaching Greenland in 1964. In Michel the Giant: An African in Greenland Tété-Michel Kpomassie tells the remarkable (true) story of that journey and, in particular, the eighteen months he spent living among the inidigenous Greenlanders, by whom he seems to have been welcomed without question. It is a rich, vivid, and humane portrayal both of the author as a young man and of a culture even then coming under immense pressure

Just finished this. Really enjoyed it, but thought/ hoped it would cover more of his amazing journey to get there than his time spent there. Either way, a fascinating and enjoyable read.

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music, art and culture / Re: Anyone seen any good films lately - Part the second

« Last post by ToxicBilberry on Today at 04:39:52 pm »

Deliver'd - https://www.bfi.org.uk/interviews/fanny-lye-deliverd-maxine-peake-thomas-clay-their-17th-century-folk-thriller

Shropshire based tale of sadism and liberation with a hint of mysticism, I'm interested to find out more about Quakers. A solid 6/10

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music, art and culture / Re: Books...

« Last post by Will Hunt on Today at 04:36:35 pm »

It took me all of April and the first week of May but I finished the 1200 page beast that is The Count of Monte Cristo. I was daunted by it's vintage and girth but found it very very enjoyable. Accessible, if not verbose, writing. The only thing it needs is some spoiler-free reminders of who's who and what their personal history with the other characters is. A lot happens, everyone changes their names, and sometimes you have to think for a minute to remember some affair that two characters had 600 pages ago.

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news / Re: Significant First Ascents

« Last post by jwi on Today at 04:18:13 pm »

Aubin Salmon has done Nirvana, an old highball project in Puiselet that has been tried by a few enthusiasts over the years. Guillaume Joubert has already top-roped the prow a while ago at a suggested grade of 8A+ with a precarious 7B mantelshelf sequence to top out.


Source: Grimper Magazine (photo Declerck/Bévillard

HVS 7b?

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power club / Re: Power Club 751 29 April - 5 May 2024

« Last post by Duma on Today at 03:19:27 pm »

Thanks Duncan. Bit of a nothing week for me, missed a couple of windows to get out then working for the weekend.

M - sleeping off nights, then declined invitation to get out from Adam Lincoln of this parish as feeling like death. Should have made the effort, but as anyone who's recovered from nights will know, that's a hard call just after lunchtume... TCA later (eve), 90 min. Still feeling pretty groggy but repeated a couple of blues first go, and minor progress on current projects.
T - jerked awake unreasonably early by phone call. Banging headache all morning. Lunch , UCR, 120 min. Just some easy routes up to 7a, not feeling up to anything harder. Eve, TCA, 120 min. Mainly there for the social but obviously got drawn in to the reset on the roof. Managed a white and a black but pointless session really.
W -
T - eve, TCA, 120 min. Reset on the vert corner upstairs, 6A to 7A+. 10 problems, did all, flashed 8, one misread but fine second go, one actually tricky, maybe 10 goes. Then downstairs to the new roof set, slightly better than Tuesdays effort, progress on a tricky black but no tick.
F - 12 hr shift
S  - 12 hr shift
S - 12 hr shift

72 kg.

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power club / Re: Power Club 751 29 April - 5 May 2024

« Last post by SA Chris on Today at 01:51:11 pm »

Not much to report training wise, not a good week.

M - not much, taking it easy after cheating my way round 15 mile run on Sunday. Usual coffeemaking pullups but little else.
T - same
W - same. Think I did a few pickups with the edge.
T - was going for a lunchtime run, but got a last minute doc appt.
F - drive to Glen Affric, got there later than intended thanks to detour. 14km cycle to YH with stupidly heavy pack. Light needed for most of the route. Drank whisky until too late.
S - misty start, both in head and outdoors. as weather lifted, headed up Beinn Fhada, great views all round, but a demoralising circuitous descent - 22km. More whisky, determined not to carry it back out again.
S - slow start to cycle out but a lot easier with lighter pack - 14 km. Stopped for a look at the Ledge in Inverness, but non-climbing mate not keen to hang about.. 

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power club / Re: Power Club 751 29 April - 5 May 2024

« Last post by Nibile on Today at 01:29:29 pm »

Power Club

Mon  - DL 531 week 3. Bentover rows.
Tue - farmer's. Pull ups. Heavy.
Wed - tired. Board climbing, set and climbed a problem just at the right intensity. Board fitness is one problem. Back work, bar work.
Thu - weights, pull ups.
Fri - dips, push ups, DL 531 week 4.
Sat - regular weights.
Sun - boxing bag.