UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => news => Topic started by: Johnny Brown on October 19, 2011, 09:49:30 pm
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Hazel's just put on crackbook she's done Golden Gate. Pretty impressive!
How many brits have freed El Cap?
Leo - at least 2- (El Nino & Prophet) did he ever do Freerider?,
Bransby - twice but same route (Freerider),
errrr anyone else?
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Cool. 3 x 5.13 pitches and 5ish @ 5.12 from memory?
Toby Dunn Freerider? Heap/Bentley?
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Pretty sure Heap and Bentley failed quite publically didn't they? Unless they went back without the cameras...
That's a good effort by Toby too!
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How many brits have freed El Cap?
Leo - at least 2- (El Nino & Prophet) did he ever do Freerider
Leo did Freerider with one fall in 2005. El Cap. has still not been onsighted.
Caff and Adam Hocking were / are also up on Golden Gate. Any idea how they are getting on?
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a cam 5 hit Hock on Golden Gate and knocked him out and caff had to get him down. Dunno what they'v been up to since. And what about Mawson, how's he getting on?
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Shit the bed, is Hock ok? I no longer have my farcebook active, otherwise I'd have got in touch with him
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this is Hazel on Hock's computer - just to let you know that he's OK, just looked bad at the time and was obviously a good idea to come down since he was bleeding all over the monster, pretty unlucky for the two of them.
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Ouch! And Hazel: :bow:
(http://www.supertopo.com/topos/obscurities/freergoldengcor.jpg)(http://www.supertopo.com/topos/obscurities/goldengate1.jpg)
(http://www.alpinist.com/media/ALP20/yosemite-june-1.jpg)
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Nice work Duma.
Not much relevant on Tom Evans' El Cap Report (http://www.elcapreport.com/archive/201110), though he does mention Golden Gate has been busy. I guess his usual spot on the bridge doesn't give the best views of that section. Could be some brits in this pic?
(http://www.elcapreport.com/sites/default/files/12%20Climber%20traversing%20in%20to%20tower%20of%20the%20people.JPG)
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isn't this just amazing?! what a great effort. hope the brits out there get more stuff done too.
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Fantastic effort.
And get well soon Hock.
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Thanks for the update Hazel, and good effort as well!
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Great effort from Hazel.
A list of El Cap free ascents… - includes most things up to a few years ago with lots of detail...
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/longhf.htm (http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/longhf.htm)
But in terms of Brits, the list is pretty short… To point out the obvious, loads will have climbed stuff like the West Face and Free Blast. But as for the proper routes on the main section, then yeah, think its just:
Freerider: Leo, Bransby.
The Prophet: Leo with Jason
El Nino: Leo with Patch
And now Hazel on Golden Gate
Then there’s Leo’s sort of free route: The Passage To Freedom - 7 pitches up to El Cap Tower (the one with the aid point dynoing off the Alfa badge…)
And as Duncan said, an onsight still hasn’t happened on any of the main El Cap routes. Ueli Steck probably came closest – taking just one fall on a wet 5.11 pitch on Golden Gate… in between running up North faces…
Also on the El Cap front, just came across this copy of a Rock & Ice article by Leo on The Prophet – it’s a good read…
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1634712/Leo-Houlding-Jason-Pickles-on-The-Prophet (http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1634712/Leo-Houlding-Jason-Pickles-on-The-Prophet)
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Hazel--->Wad---> :clap2:---> :bow:
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But in terms of Brits, the list is pretty short… To point out the obvious, loads will have climbed stuff like the West Face and Free Blast. But as for the proper routes on the main section, then yeah, think its just:
Freerider: Leo, Bransby.
The Prophet: Leo with Jason
El Nino: Leo with Patch
And now Hazel on Golden Gate
I wouldn't be surprised if a few others had done Freerider (I mentioned one person abovewho has).
Still, thinking about it, it is interesting how little action there is from Brits on El Cap. I guess it's pretty expensive in this day and age for folks to go over there...
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Awesome effort. Theres been a lot of female action on El cap this year, what with Mayan freeing the salathe and getting the female record for freerider, the new female speed record for the Nose, my GF becoming the first Irish person (male or female we think) to aid solo an el cap route, and now this. Top class!
Still, thinking about it, it is interesting how little action there is from Brits on El Cap. I guess it's pretty expensive in this day and age for folks to go over there...
I spent 3 weeks out there at the end of the summer on funds harvested from 2 months paychecks, and I'm not in a particularly high paid job. Where theres a will....
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my GF becoming the first Irish person (male or female we think) to aid solo an el cap route, and now this. Top class!
ex? Must be hard to do, especially hauling that 20l bottle of sunblock!
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my GF becoming the first Irish person (male or female we think) to aid solo an el cap route, and now this. Top class!
ex? Must be hard to do, especially hauling that 20l bottle of sunblock!
Good memory!
We patched it up thankfully. Had to have a big bust up and hash some stuff out. Was emotional rollercoaster central for a while though. And I'm heading for BC in February (from what everone said, Farnbourough just sounded too miserable), so all the stuff on the other thread got resolved in the end :) Very stressful though!
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And there was me still feeling sorry for you. You fucker :0)
Still at least you got some things sorted out, had a good drinking session, and found out Farnborough is a shithole.
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I wouldn't be surprised if a few others had done Freerider (I mentioned one person abovewho has)
He definitely went back for the redpoint then? I daresay a lot have tried it, but doing an ascent that conforms to valley ethics is a fair bit tougher.
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As JB said, a few more have probably tried - but not heard of any others actually freeing Freerider – even without worrying about strict ethics? Suppose some folks may have just done it on the quiet though?
Account of Toby’s ascent is here:
http://www.planetfear.com/articles/Freerider_A_Yosemite_Legend__1031.html (http://www.planetfear.com/articles/Freerider_A_Yosemite_Legend__1031.html)
Basically, they freed most of it but then aided up the Salathe headwall rather than taking the Freerider variation. Then again, he may have been back since?
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It is surprising not many Brit's have free climbed El Cap and it makes Hazel's achievement all the more impressive.
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Crackbook update from her blog says she did The Book of Hate (5.13d stemming nightmare) third try today, as did Caff. :clap2:
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Also on the El Cap front, just came across this copy of a Rock & Ice article by Leo on The Prophet – it’s a good read…
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1634712/Leo-Houlding-Jason-Pickles-on-The-Prophet (http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1634712/Leo-Houlding-Jason-Pickles-on-The-Prophet)
That's the first time I've seen that article. First class.
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best achievement by a British female? Does it top Lucy Creamer's 8b+?
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best achievement by a British female? Does it top Lucy Creamer's 8b+?
Hell yes.
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Just checking!
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Also on the El Cap front, just came across this copy of a Rock & Ice article by Leo on The Prophet – it’s a good read…
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1634712/Leo-Houlding-Jason-Pickles-on-The-Prophet (http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1634712/Leo-Houlding-Jason-Pickles-on-The-Prophet)
:o
I had picked up on the thing being hard'n'bold'n'all, but had no idea the early attempts were so completely Fowleresque.
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I had no idea Lidija Painkiher had done FA of Bad to the Bone in 84. That's impressive.
She's on the right here, circa 89/90
(http://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/4236508913/in/photostream)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/4236508913/#in/photostream (http://www.flickr.com/photos/30814373@N02/4236508913/#in/photostream)
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Caff said watching Hazel on book of hate(http://hazelfindlay.wordpress.com/tag/hazel-findlay-book-of-hate/ (http://hazelfindlay.wordpress.com/tag/hazel-findlay-book-of-hate/) )was mindblowing!
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Also on the El Cap front, just came across this copy of a Rock & Ice article by Leo on The Prophet – it’s a good read…
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1634712/Leo-Houlding-Jason-Pickles-on-The-Prophet (http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1634712/Leo-Houlding-Jason-Pickles-on-The-Prophet)
I had picked up on the thing being hard'n'bold'n'all, but had no idea the early attempts were so completely Fowleresque.
"In exactly the same spot, I was in a completely different place. I’d become a spectator to the heroics of my youth."
Awesome write up.
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Caff said watching Hazel on book of hate(http://hazelfindlay.wordpress.com/tag/hazel-findlay-book-of-hate/ (http://hazelfindlay.wordpress.com/tag/hazel-findlay-book-of-hate/) )was mindblowing!
This isn't getting as much attention as Golden Gate (possibly rightly I guess) but must be up there with the top British women ascents
- 8b on trad gear, climbed in about the same time as one of Britains top male climbers.
Any of her recent big ascents would be newsworthy, as a a set they are absolutely awesome.
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Start a hazelwad tread? It would be busy after the last 12 months or so.
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Good idea!
We do breed 'em tough down 'ere...
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You could up the ante, by renaming the thread OndraUberWad...
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He definitely went back for the redpoint then? I daresay a lot have tried it, but doing an ascent that conforms to valley ethics is a fair bit tougher.
if this was referring to my dabblings, no i haven't (not yet!). In my opinion, I think that gunning for the onsight (like Leo did) and falling off once or twice is more impressive than most of the ascents which rely on extensive pre practice, and the HUGE benefits of having someone do all your hauling etc. Bransby and Patchs' effort was phenominal as well. It is so much harder to do things like this with the travel, and the pressure of a trip, over nipping up every weekend from San Francisco.
For the record, i went up trying to onsight every pitch, (with a bit of beta from some Ozzy mates, and Ivo) leading everything above about 10b, and doing my share of the hauling. fell on a few pitches, and did not rp them, or do the 3 (?) pitches which avoid the headwall. All this is me getting round to my real reason for posting, which is to say
NICE ONE to hazel, what a brilliant effort, and a brilliant looking route. What's next?? :thumbsup: