UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => diet, training and injuries => power club => Topic started by: shark on January 01, 2017, 12:33:30 pm
-
Fat, unfit ? :( Kick start the New Year with Sharkathon? :boxing:
The only rule is 30 mins of any type of exercise for every day of January. :read:
(http://image.slidesharecdn.com/usain-bolt-150205065811-conversion-gate02/95/usain-bolt-4-638.jpg?cb=1423401824)
-
Simply eat faster...
-
Two days in, and success so far!
Family walk/larking about with kids on bikes etc yesterday.
Just been for a run, according to tracker it was 30 mins and 14 seconds..... Cutting it close! :strongbench:
-
Yup I'm in. Family walk yesterday, plus an unenthusiastic couple of sets of curls while watching Screenwipe.
Off to wall in ten mins.
13 st 8 1/2 this morning. Hopefully back to 13 by end Jan.
-
I'm in
Orthopod and Physio have conspired to make me buy an exercise bike for leg rehab, and I've got a couple of kg of Christmas to shed...
30 min yesterday and again today
-
Gained half a stone over the last 5 weeks so aim this month is to reverse that by cutting down carbs especially alcohol:
1st 160.2lbs Systems board AeroCap 360moves One glass of leftover champagne
2nd 159.8lbs Froggatt bouldering. Late eve Fingerboard repeaters No alcohol
3rd 158.4lbs ...
-
One glass of leftover champagne
In a cracked cup an'all
(https://i.ytimg.com/vi/iEIApUNVBKg/hqdefault.jpg)
-
1st: fail
2nd: Easdon Rocks on Dartmoor to blood the new guide.
-
1. Family walk yesterday, plus an unenthusiastic couple of sets of curls while watching Screenwipe.
13 st 8 1/2 this morning
2. 2 hour bouldering session, a few probs, then attempted laps on some longer steeper probs.
3. 2 hours surfing - pretty knackered arms after bouldering, but still had a good session.
4. 13st 6 this morning, off for another boudering session shortly.
Hopefully back to 13 by end Jan.
-
I'll give it a go this year...
1st - bouldering at the depot
2nd - bouldering at Crookrise
3rd - bouldering at Almscliff
4th - yoga class
-
Gained half a stone over the last 5 weeks so aim this month is to reverse that by cutting down carbs especially alcohol:
1st 160.2lbs Systems board AeroCap 360moves One glass of leftover champagne
2nd 159.8lbs Froggatt bouldering. Late eve Fingerboard repeaters No alcohol
3rd 158.4lbs AnCap session on systems board. No alcohol
4th 158.8lbs Felt too wiped to climb or train. Currently nursing a bottle of ale Will do 30mins stretching before bed. Connies tomorrow :bounce:
-
3rd and 4th:
While technically not defining it as exercise, I think I can allow myself to count them towards my Sharkathon. Spent two days winching massive oak trees on a site, so up and down banking with cables and chainsaws etc.
-
I think that would require more effort than 30 mins of hangboarding.
Nae booze shark!
Poor uptake on this this year.
-
1st: fail
2nd: Easdon Rocks on Dartmoor to blood the new guide.
3rd: TCA eve (fuck left middle finger somehow >:( >:( >:( )
4th: the 300 (see last year)
I'm still drinking.
-
Nae booze shark!
Poor uptake on this this year.
I'm off the sauce teacher!
-
started on 3rd as I was off work until then.
3rd some pressups pullups planks etc
4th 2 hours karate
no drink and no snacking. Not going completely dry though going to allow myself to drink on saturdays.
-
I'm down to one glass of wine per night. Might sound like a lot to some people...
-
I'm on self-enforced booze ban due to baby arrival at end of Jan so feeling extra-virtuous. Plus I drank a month's worth of ale over Xmas so it's not like I need to carry on.
Also rehabbing a knacked shoulder so not sure if physio counts for this?!
1: Nowt
2: Trip up to Almscliff with Una - no climbing but we had a good walk around
3: Shoulder rehab in the evening
4: 6k run on lunch, shoulder rehab in the evening
-
I'm down to one glass of wine per night. Might sound like a lot to some people...
Sounds like very little to me ...
-
I'm down to one glass of wine per night. Might sound like a lot to some people...
Sounds like very little to me ...
I'm thinking of giving up the bottle for good - I find when I dont drink I sleep much better - feel better the next day... Pre arrival of TT jnr 6 months ago our house was pretty much dry.. and I felt much better then than I do now, when there is the temptation (ritual?) of a glass of wine/G&T/Both once the child is put to bed and dinner is on etc..
THough I sometimes wonder if my body has an especially adverse reaction to booze...
-
I'm down to one glass of wine per night. Might sound like a lot to some people...
Sounds like very little to me ...
I'm thinking of giving up the bottle for good - I find when I dont drink I sleep much better - feel better the next day... Pre arrival of TT jnr 6 months ago our house was pretty much dry.. and I felt much better then than I do now, when there is the temptation (ritual?) of a glass of wine/G&T/Both once the child is put to bed and dinner is on etc..
THough I sometimes wonder if my body has an especially adverse reaction to booze...
Ritual is the right word, a glass for aperatif, another plus a top up while cooking, 1 more with dinner, glass on the sofa in the evening, soon adds up. I like drinking, but I don't like it becoming a habit. I gave up smoking 10 years ago for exactly the same reason.
Also it's very economical here (less than 10 euros, sometimes much less) to buy wine in 3l boxes, they disappear dangerously quickly.
I could see giving up Monday to Friday evening.
-
I could see giving up Monday to Friday evening.
This is a point, but it's not the entire picture.
Aside from how many times per week we drink, it's very important to check how we drink when we drink.
Staying dry all week and having lots of alcohol on the weekends is worse than drinking quite moderately every night, both in terms of physical and mental health - said he who went to bed at 5 AM last Friday after 8 Long Island cocktails after dining out...
-
I could see giving up Monday to Friday evening.
- said he who went to bed at 5 AM last Friday after 8 Long Island cocktails after dining out...
doesn't count, eating's cheating Nibs
-
a glass for aperatif
Janet Street Porter walks into a bar, and asks for a small aperitif...
-
I could see giving up Monday to Friday evening.
- said he who went to bed at 5 AM last Friday after 8 Long Island cocktails after dining out...
doesn't count, eating's cheating Nibs
;D ;D ;D
Even if we had wine and some grappa at the restaurant?
-
I could see giving up Monday to Friday evening.
This is a point, but it's not the entire picture.
Aside from how many times per week we drink, it's very important to check how we drink when we drink.
Staying dry all week and having lots of alcohol on the weekends is worse than drinking quite moderately every night, both in terms of physical and mental health - said he who went to bed at 5 AM last Friday after 8 Long Island cocktails after dining out...
Very true, my brother-in-law does the same doesn't drink except at the weekend, which starts on Thursday. down 10 cans of lager, feel like shit on Sunday, goes back to work.
I drink exactly the same amount everyday, very rarely feel like shit (except when I stop drinking ;D). A happy medium would be nice.
-
I could see giving up Monday to Friday evening.
- said he who went to bed at 5 AM last Friday after 8 Long Island cocktails after dining out...
doesn't count, eating's cheating Nibs
;D ;D ;D
Even if we had wine and some grappa at the restaurant?
rules are rules
-
Gained half a stone over the last 5 weeks so aim this month is to reverse that by cutting down carbs especially alcohol:
1st 160.2lbs Systems board AeroCap 360moves One glass of leftover champagne
2nd 159.8lbs Froggatt bouldering. Late eve Fingerboard repeaters No alcohol
3rd 158.4lbs AnCap session on systems board. No alcohol
4th 158.8lbs Felt too wiped to climb or train. 30mins stretching. 1 x bottle of beer
5th 159.8lbs Secret Garden with Dolly. Did surpisingly well on Dick Williams. Busted at end with thin tips. Eve Fingerboard Did warm up but was crap on first set of repeaters so stopped. No alcohol
6th 159.0lbs AnCap later
Been feeling hungry last couple of days and not up for starving myself, hence not lost weight even though carb intake relatively low
-
Well I'm going to give this a go, so far so good but Sharkathon happens at the most busy time at work, quite a few late nights, this next week.
Mon 2nd - Arch North couple of hours. Working on footless Chrimbo comp purple and yellow in cave, arms shattered. Getting close with V4-6 Red on slab.
Tues - Tabata 20mins body weight squats, mountain climbers, press ups
30 minute yoga app workout. Doms in forearms from yesterday.
Weds - Arch North 2hrs did purple and yellow 2nd go😀, got red slab route wired. Great session.
Thurs - 30 minutes yoga app
Fri- Arch North 2hrs new reset on island had muck around on everything. Sent red slab 😀
Sat - 30 minutes yoga app
Sun - Tabata from tues, trx I,Y,T, rings dips, leg rises, ab work on Swiss, 15 min yoga app.
-
Just got back from a week in the states visiting the girlfriend, fairly good start to the year. She goes to the gym quite a lot so I went with her a couple of times. She's v impressive, deadlift almost twice body weight, squat 1.5X etc.
1st: Gym, back and shoulders. Felt weak on my "forte" after a few weeks of heavy eating and resting
2nd: Gym deadlifts and squats. First ever time deadlifting, did 100 pounds over bodyweight? Also squatted my bodyweight (haven't really done squats before either.
3rd: Walking round NYC, fitbit says 17,000 steps, 122 mins of activity
4th: Walking round NYC, fitbit says 27,000 steps, 204 mins of activity
5th: Walking round NYC, fitbit says 21,000 steps, 154 mins of activity
6th-8th: Nothing
-
I've ended the week The same weight as when I started. Felt like I've overdone the training/climbing (AnCap, now I'm doing it right, takes it out of me) so couple of days of stretching to tick the box. Alcohol count just one glass of champagne and two bottles of beer -so virtually teetotal
-
I'm on self-enforced booze ban due to baby arrival at end of Jan so feeling extra-virtuous. Plus I drank a month's worth of ale over Xmas so it's not like I need to carry on.
Also rehabbing a knacked shoulder so not sure if physio counts for this?!
1: Nowt
2: Trip up to Almscliff with Una - no climbing but we had a good walk around
3: Shoulder rehab in the evening
4: 6k run on lunch, shoulder rehab in the evening
5: Depot session after work, really good crack at the V5-7 purples, even did a few. Returned home, family health minor crisis, midnight dash to all-night pharmacy, late night. On the plus side I'd normally have had a beer or two post-wall so I was glad I was fit to drive.
6: Does running around after a toddler at a soft play centre count?
7: A whole day of cleaning, hoovering and generally sterilising the house, plus a trip to the tip.
Pretty inauspicious weekend, but the major thing is a full week off the booze. I literally can't remember when I last did that. I wish I felt good about it but I'm really run down, feel like I'm about to get a cold, have a huge coldsore and am sleeping badly / feel knackered all the time!
-
I've not drank this year, and I've been ill for most of it too! Absolutely stinking cold, like a cartoon type cold, sneezing, coughing and with that annoying bunged up sound. Sleeping like shite also.
Bring back the ale!
-
I've not drank this year, and I've been ill for most of it too! Absolutely stinking cold, like a cartoon type cold, sneezing, coughing and with that annoying bunged up sound. Sleeping like shite also.
Bring back the ale!
Sounds like a hot-tody would be more appropriate.
-
1. Family walk yesterday, plus an unenthusiastic couple of sets of curls while watching Screenwipe.
13 st 8 1/2 this morning
2. 2 hour bouldering session, a few probs, then attempted laps on some longer steeper probs.
3. 2 hours surfing - pretty knackered arms after bouldering, but still had a good session.
4. 13st 6 this morning, off for another boudering session shortly.
5. half hour walk at lunch
6. token core session
7. Walk with kids, sandwiched by eating too much before and then cake afterwards.
8. Long walk with kids - a bit ambitious bth - near mutiny by the end, left it a bit late and it was getting dark.
back to 13st 8, weekends are never good for dieting.
-
I'm up to date so far with at least two hours walking/dog jogging each day. Having a collie will do that for you!
Started a new office stairwell session last week and managed 152 reps of three flights up and down. Aiming to do 300 in a lunchtime by March.
-
I'm up to date so far with at least two hours walking/dogging each day. Having a collie will do that for you!
fixed.
-
I'm a huge believer in the principle of Sharkathon, but my training resolution for 2017 was to take at least one rest day a month (after averaging nearly 1.6 training sessions a day for the last six months of 2016 - unsurprisingly, the result was an injury that wrote off climbing for two months) - so I took the first of January off.
It was surprisingly difficult.
-
I'll give it a go this year...
1st - bouldering at the depot
2nd - bouldering at Crookrise
3rd - bouldering at Almscliff
4th - yoga class
5th - Yoga Class
6th - FAIL. :sorry: had full intentions of going to yoga again or the wall but was drawn to the pub after work following a long day and late finish.
7th - Day of walking around and wading through rivers Coverdale in N.Yorks looking at my gf's PhD site.
8th - Semi-fail. This was a day of jobs so half a day of walking around Leeds to get various things for DIY jobs. Some finger rehab/stretching in the evening though I'm not sure moving one finger constitutes as exercise...
9th - Went for a run and did some stretching. Run was only 3k but I'm slowly getting back into it following injury last year. First one for a while without any pain but it was slow (5:50/km). Would love to get back to a c.20m 5k this year but I doubt it'll happen unfortunately. Lots of stretching after this which need to do more regularly.
10th - Evening at Leeds Wall with the Leeds Mountaineering Club. Really nice bunch of people and I'm looking forward to getting involved with them this year.
11th - No exercise as such but lots of finger rehab. I saw a hand specialist physio in North Leeds which turned out to be £65 for a session (thank got my work health insurance covers it) and it was worth every penny in my opinion. I assumed it was a pulley injury, and it might have been originally, but following a lot of tests the diagnosis was as follows:
Pulleys all seemed okay in the tests I was asked to do.
FDP tendon functioned okay.
FDS tendon appears okayish but seems to be causing the problem.
It seems I have some scar tissue above and below my PIP joint on my right ring finger which she believed is aggravating the FDS tendon where it ends joins to the finger above the joint, and where the FDP tendon passes through it below the joint.
Rehab is to isolate that finger with predominantly two exercises to try and break down the tissue and help the tendons move over each other more smoothly. Plus lots of general massage. No need to stop climbing as long as I'm being sensible and reducing my grade/open handing things.
I'm due back in 4 weeks to see how it goes. Positives are that she doesn't think it's actual damage and it is just a build up of reasonably immature scar tissue from previous injuries that can be broken down. Negatives are that after a few days of rehab it's constantly aching, but that's to be expected.
12th - Yoga class in the evening.
-
too lazy to do it by individual days.
Been doing an hour of kata practice as well as stretching every day. Been to karate 3 times a week. No climbing at all. (got my black belt grading this year so it's kind of taking over)
Might just be my age (44) but I'm really aching and feel it when I start exercising, suppose it shows how out of shape I am. Reckon my body is telling me it needs a day off, so I'm just going to go for a walk tomorrow in the peak - in the snow hopefully.
-
Just got back from a week in the states visiting the girlfriend, fairly good start to the year. She goes to the gym quite a lot so I went with her a couple of times. She's v impressive, deadlift almost twice body weight, squat 1.5X etc.
1st: Gym, back and shoulders. Felt weak on my "forte" after a few weeks of heavy eating and resting
2nd: Gym deadlifts and squats. First ever time deadlifting, did 100 pounds over bodyweight? Also squatted my bodyweight (haven't really done squats before either.
3rd: Walking round NYC, fitbit says 17,000 steps, 122 mins of activity
4th: Walking round NYC, fitbit says 27,000 steps, 204 mins of activity
5th: Walking round NYC, fitbit says 21,000 steps, 154 mins of activity
6th-8th: Nothing
9th: Squash, beat housemate 5-3
10th: Indoors, first climbing session of the year. Felt weak, got pumped on PE boulders. Climbed fairly well
11th: 5-a-side footie, cardio is shocking. Tweaked my hip.
12th Indoors, very busy wall and nothing new set for about two months. Elbow slightly tweaky after
-
1. Family walk yesterday, plus an unenthusiastic couple of sets of curls while watching Screenwipe.
13 st 8 1/2 this morning
2. 2 hour bouldering session, a few probs, then attempted laps on some longer steeper probs.
3. 2 hours surfing - pretty knackered arms after bouldering, but still had a good session.
4. 13st 6 this morning, off for another boudering session shortly.
5. half hour walk at lunch
6. token core session
7. Walk with kids, sandwiched by eating too much before and then cake afterwards.
8. Long walk with kids - a bit ambitious bth - near mutiny by the end, left it a bit late and it was getting dark.
back to 13st 8, weekends are never good for dieting.
9th - bouldered - pretty good session down wall, reset on 2 boards so loads to go at.
10th - short run with son as beavers was cancelled. Token light core session in evening
11th - bouldered - think ski from monday, but still had a good session, managed 2 of 3 aims for the evening.
12th - a few short walks in day, token pushup session.
Weight 13st 7. need to do a long run or two to burn a bit off.
One beer consumed this month.
-
Started new job. Major fail with Sharkathon
9th Drove to Manachester. Then Walsall. Then back to Manchester. Stayed n a B&B and not enough room to do stretching/yoga
10th As above
11th En route from Manchester to home stopped at office and did AnCap session on systems board
12th Long day Manchester and back. Knackered. Couldnt face fingerboarding. One bottle of beer
13th Slept badly Forgot to weigh myself. Worked from home in morning and got out to Burbage to meet and climb with TT and Jim at Burbage for a couple of hours. Will do a fingerboard session later
On the plus side been sticking to low carbs and only had one bottle of beer
-
Started new job. Major fail with Sharkathon
9th Drove to Manachester. Then Walsall. Then back to Manchester. Stayed n a B&B and not enough room to do stretching/yoga
10th As above
11th En route from Manchester to home stopped at office and did AnCap session on systems board
12th Long day Manchester and back. Knackered. Couldnt face fingerboarding. One bottle of beer
13th Slept badly Forgot to weigh myself. Worked from home in morning and got out to Burbage to meet and climb with TT and Jim at Burbage for a couple of hours. Eve Good fingerboard repeater session later. Drank half a bottle of wine
14th PM AnCap session on systems board. Went well. 2 sets. Eve Met Mark H (closet Sharkathlete) and had three pints
15th PM Some bouldering down the Foundry - fingerboard later
11stone 3lbs this morning. So nearly 3lbs lost this month. Bit of a lapse on alcohol front but otherwise kept the carbs low
-
14th Eve Met Mark H (closet Sharkathlete) and had three pints
On the plus side been sticking to low carbs and only had one bottle of beer
Must have been HUGE :clown:
-
14th Eve Met Mark H (closet Sharkathlete) and had three pints
On the plus side been sticking to low carbs and only had one bottle of beer
Must have been HUGE :clown:
Cut and paste error duly amended
-
2 hours karate on Friday
Saturday was supposed to be take it easy 3hours at th depot with the kids though so easier than it sounds
Done nothing today and have had at least twice as much as a shark big night out (tm). So have fallen off the sharkahon. Be back to bring a loser tomorrow
-
Mon 10th - arch north 2 hrs working red v4-6 looked beyond me but managed to get link with dab! :whip:
Tues - yoga app 30 mins
Weds - arch north couple of hours tried few of reset probs, wods out so went and redid red from mon first go but bit of dab - still happy with this 😀
Thurs - parents evening called off because of weather 30 min yoga app.
Fri - went to school of rock the musical with mrs jfdm.
Got back late managed to do 30 min yoga app.
Sat - 1hr ring work/trx sesh.
Sun- thought core tried this, brutal + 30 min yoga app.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=SBrBjpOa5rc (https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=SBrBjpOa5rc)
Meeting Sharkathon requirements only just this week felt knackered from thurs onwards :yawn:
-
I'll give it a go this year...
1st - bouldering at the depot
2nd - bouldering at Crookrise
3rd - bouldering at Almscliff
4th - yoga class
5th - Yoga Class
6th - FAIL. :sorry: had full intentions of going to yoga again or the wall but was drawn to the pub after work following a long day and late finish.
7th - Day of walking around and wading through rivers Coverdale in N.Yorks looking at my gf's PhD site.
8th - Semi-fail. This was a day of jobs so half a day of walking around Leeds to get various things for DIY jobs. Some finger rehab/stretching in the evening though I'm not sure moving one finger constitutes as exercise...
9th - Went for a run and did some stretching. Run was only 3k but I'm slowly getting back into it following injury last year. First one for a while without any pain but it was slow (5:50/km). Would love to get back to a c.20m 5k this year but I doubt it'll happen unfortunately. Lots of stretching after this which need to do more regularly.
10th - Evening at Leeds Wall with the Leeds Mountaineering Club. Really nice bunch of people and I'm looking forward to getting involved with them this year.
11th - No exercise as such but lots of finger rehab. I saw a hand specialist physio in North Leeds which turned out to be £65 for a session (thank got my work health insurance covers it) and it was worth every penny in my opinion. I assumed it was a pulley injury, and it might have been originally, but following a lot of tests the diagnosis was as follows:
Pulleys all seemed okay in the tests I was asked to do.
FDP tendon functioned okay.
FDS tendon appears okayish but seems to be causing the problem.
It seems I have some scar tissue above and below my PIP joint on my right ring finger which she believed is aggravating the FDS tendon where it ends joins to the finger above the joint, and where the FDP tendon passes through it below the joint.
Rehab is to isolate that finger with predominantly two exercises to try and break down the tissue and help the tendons move over each other more smoothly. Plus lots of general massage. No need to stop climbing as long as I'm being sensible and reducing my grade/open handing things.
I'm due back in 4 weeks to see how it goes. Positives are that she doesn't think it's actual damage and it is just a build up of reasonably immature scar tissue from previous injuries that can be broken down. Negatives are that after a few days of rehab it's constantly aching, but that's to be expected.
12th - Yoga class in the evening.
13th - Wine... Though lots of finger exercises throughout the day.
14th - Day out in the lakes walking up Coniston old man and along the tops from the summit. Beautiful day with great views.
15th - Finger and Knee physio in between a day of visiting family and diy planning...
-
1. Family walk yesterday, plus an unenthusiastic couple of sets of curls while watching Screenwipe.
13 st 8 1/2 this morning
2. 2 hour bouldering session, a few probs, then attempted laps on some longer steeper probs.
3. 2 hours surfing - pretty knackered arms after bouldering, but still had a good session.
4. 13st 6 this morning, off for another boudering session shortly.
5. half hour walk at lunch
6. token core session
7. Walk with kids, sandwiched by eating too much before and then cake afterwards.
8. Long walk with kids - a bit ambitious bth - near mutiny by the end, left it a bit late and it was getting dark.
back to 13st 8, weekends are never good for dieting.
9th - bouldered - pretty good session down wall, reset on 2 boards so loads to go at.
10th - short run with son as beavers was cancelled. Token light core session in evening
11th - bouldered - think ski from monday, but still had a good session, managed 2 of 3 aims for the evening.
12th - a few short walks in day, token pushup session.
Weight 13st 7. need to do a long run or two to burn a bit off.
One beer consumed this month.
13th - walk, some core.
14th - run 7.7 km in 50 min s - slow, very icy.
15th - short walk with kids. Light fingerboard session, first in ages. Better work!
-
Just got back from a week in the states visiting the girlfriend, fairly good start to the year. She goes to the gym quite a lot so I went with her a couple of times. She's v impressive, deadlift almost twice body weight, squat 1.5X etc.
1st: Gym, back and shoulders. Felt weak on my "forte" after a few weeks of heavy eating and resting
2nd: Gym deadlifts and squats. First ever time deadlifting, did 100 pounds over bodyweight? Also squatted my bodyweight (haven't really done squats before either)
3rd: Walking round NYC, fitbit says 17,000 steps, 122 mins of activity
4th: Walking round NYC, fitbit says 27,000 steps, 204 mins of activity
5th: Walking round NYC, fitbit says 21,000 steps, 154 mins of activity
6th-8th: Nothing
9th: Squash, beat housemate 5-3
10th: Indoors, first climbing session of the year. Felt weak, got pumped on PE boulders. Climbed fairly well
11th: 5-a-side footie, cardio is shocking. Tweaked my hip.
12th Indoors, very busy wall and nothing new set for about two months. Elbow slightly tweaky after
13th: Nothing - Drive up North
14th: Simon's Seat
15th: Stoney
16th: Squash
17th: Indoors, good session
-
I'll give it a go this year...
1st - bouldering at the depot
2nd - bouldering at Crookrise
3rd - bouldering at Almscliff
4th - yoga class
5th - Yoga Class
6th - FAIL. :sorry: had full intentions of going to yoga again or the wall but was drawn to the pub after work following a long day and late finish.
7th - Day of walking around and wading through rivers Coverdale in N.Yorks looking at my gf's PhD site.
8th - Semi-fail. This was a day of jobs so half a day of walking around Leeds to get various things for DIY jobs. Some finger rehab/stretching in the evening though I'm not sure moving one finger constitutes as exercise...
9th - Went for a run and did some stretching. Run was only 3k but I'm slowly getting back into it following injury last year. First one for a while without any pain but it was slow (5:50/km). Would love to get back to a c.20m 5k this year but I doubt it'll happen unfortunately. Lots of stretching after this which need to do more regularly.
10th - Evening at Leeds Wall with the Leeds Mountaineering Club. Really nice bunch of people and I'm looking forward to getting involved with them this year.
11th - No exercise as such but lots of finger rehab. I saw a hand specialist physio in North Leeds which turned out to be £65 for a session (thank got my work health insurance covers it) and it was worth every penny in my opinion. I assumed it was a pulley injury, and it might have been originally, but following a lot of tests the diagnosis was as follows:
Pulleys all seemed okay in the tests I was asked to do.
FDP tendon functioned okay.
FDS tendon appears okayish but seems to be causing the problem.
It seems I have some scar tissue above and below my PIP joint on my right ring finger which she believed is aggravating the FDS tendon where it ends joins to the finger above the joint, and where the FDP tendon passes through it below the joint.
Rehab is to isolate that finger with predominantly two exercises to try and break down the tissue and help the tendons move over each other more smoothly. Plus lots of general massage. No need to stop climbing as long as I'm being sensible and reducing my grade/open handing things.
I'm due back in 4 weeks to see how it goes. Positives are that she doesn't think it's actual damage and it is just a build up of reasonably immature scar tissue from previous injuries that can be broken down. Negatives are that after a few days of rehab it's constantly aching, but that's to be expected.
12th - Yoga class in the evening.
13th - Wine... Though lots of finger exercises throughout the day.
14th - Day out in the lakes walking up Coniston old man and along the tops from the summit. Beautiful day with great views.
15th - Finger and Knee physio in between a day of visiting family and diy planning...
16th - Depot session - first time climbing since starting finger physio. No pain and felt generally happy with my climbing - YYFY
17th - Leeds Wall - thought I'd test my finger again. Got myself up some 6c+ and 7a which involved crimps / small holds. Bit silly maybe given I've only been doing physio for a week but recovery seems to be really instant. Very slight ache today but it's a world away from the pain I'd normally get after climbing.
18th - Not done yet but I will go for a run tonight and hopefully make it to a yoga class as well.
-
1. Family walk yesterday, plus an unenthusiastic couple of sets of curls while watching Screenwipe.
13 st 8 1/2 this morning
2. 2 hour bouldering session, a few probs, then attempted laps on some longer steeper probs.
3. 2 hours surfing - pretty knackered arms after bouldering, but still had a good session.
4. 13st 6 this morning, off for another boudering session shortly.
5. half hour walk at lunch
6. token core session
7. Walk with kids, sandwiched by eating too much before and then cake afterwards.
8. Long walk with kids - a bit ambitious bth - near mutiny by the end, left it a bit late and it was getting dark.
back to 13st 8, weekends are never good for dieting.
9th - bouldered - pretty good session down wall, reset on 2 boards so loads to go at.
10th - short run with son as beavers was cancelled. Token light core session in evening
11th - bouldered - think ski from monday, but still had a good session, managed 2 of 3 aims for the evening.
12th - a few short walks in day, token pushup session.
Weight 13st 7. need to do a long run or two to burn a bit off.
One beer consumed this month.
13th - walk, some core.
14th - run 7.7 km in 50 min s - slow, very icy.
15th - short walk with kids. Light fingerboard session, first in ages. Better work!
16th - weight session - moderate. Some walking
17th - long drive for a course, back home late. Managed a half hour walk at lunchtime, I guess that counts. Snacked on crap while driving, bad news.
18th - wall session - about an hour and a half, felt surprisingly tired after fingerboard session. Short walk.
Weight 13st 8. Not going to plan.
-
Yesterday I got home quite late from work after a long day. Feeling tired since last Sunday, I decided to take another rest day and compensate with some London N°1 and tonic.
As she heard my intentions, my girlfriend looked at me with a puzzled face and asked: "What? Why you don't train? Do some weights." and so I did. Then had G&T anyhow.
So, if any Sharkathlete is interested, they can hire her to make them feel like sh*t if they don't train, boosting up motivation.
I'm so lucky.
-
Nibs, could you perhaps record a short audio file of this motivating speech?
no need to translate it, the original will suffice
-
I'll work on it, but prepare yourself to be hit by the thunder of a mellow voice making you feeling like a weak, lazy bastard.
Training wise, it works wonders.
-
Junk week, felt crap, off work Tues/Weds.
So not much climbing but lots of stretching.
Aim for 2017 increase flexibility, break into v5's.
Beginning to see some results, see below.
16th Jan Mon - arch north - pottered. Did red route from last week without dab, 1st go, weighs in v5.
Tues - unwell - 2x15 minutes yoga app.
Weds - unwell - GP appointment, 30 min yoga app.
Thurs - 30 min yoga app.
Fri - back to GP, blood tests, 30 mins yoga app.
Sat/Sun - 30 min yoga app.
Feel more with it so hopefully next week will be a better one.
-
Forgive me sharkathon for I have sinned.
Trained 6 days out of 7. Was good with no alcohol and ascetic diet whilst in bedsit land at start of week and went off the rails weds eve onwards and got royally hammered sat night.
On plus side getting stronger even when doing AnCap with a hangover.
-
AnCap with a hangover.
HangCap?
8)
-
Isn't doing Ancap like having a hangover anyway?
-
Not going to carry on with full list until the end.
19th - walked, core session.
20th - walked 20 mins
21st - walked miles with kids. 20 min treadmill session, slow pace, short fingerboard session.
22nd - entered 10 k cross country run. good going - all muddy bits still frozen. Time 53:30 or so.
Weight - 13st 7.
-
23rd - was going to do weight session, but got engrossed in photo editing so all i can record is 40 mins walking
24th - not much - had a course - 20 mins walking
25th - wall session - felt OK, got a couple of new things done, but didn't manage either of aims for the evening.
Weight resolutely sticking at 13st 8 with less than a week til end of jan..
-
Just got back from a week in the states visiting the girlfriend, fairly good start to the year. She goes to the gym quite a lot so I went with her a couple of times. She's v impressive, deadlift almost twice body weight, squat 1.5X etc.
1st: Gym, back and shoulders. Felt weak on my "forte" after a few weeks of heavy eating and resting
2nd: Gym deadlifts and squats. First ever time deadlifting, did 100 pounds over bodyweight? Also squatted my bodyweight (haven't really done squats before either)
3rd: Walking round NYC, fitbit says 17,000 steps, 122 mins of activity
4th: Walking round NYC, fitbit says 27,000 steps, 204 mins of activity
5th: Walking round NYC, fitbit says 21,000 steps, 154 mins of activity
6th-8th: Nothing
9th: Squash, beat housemate 5-3
10th: Indoors, first climbing session of the year. Felt weak, got pumped on PE boulders. Climbed fairly well
11th: 5-a-side footie, cardio is shocking. Tweaked my hip.
12th Indoors, very busy wall and nothing new set for about two months. Elbow slightly tweaky after
13th: Nothing - Drive up North
14th: Simon's Seat
15th: Stoney
16th: Squash
17th: Indoors, good session
18th: Five-a-side footie
19th: Indoors, bad session
20th: Nothing - Drive up North
21st: Bradley and Turningstone Edge
22nd: Gardoms North
23rd: Squash
24th: Nothing
25th: Five-a-side footie
-
So so week, only two days to go, think I might make it!
Mon 23rd - arch north pottered about 2hrs, new set managed Hendrix in corner v3-5?
Flexibility came in handy so yoga seems to be paying off. + 15 mins stretching when I got home.
Tues - parents' evening at work. Late yoga app sesh when I got home 30 mins.
Weds + Thurs - yoga app 30 mins.
Fri - trx rings - pull ups, i,y,t's etc 5a beastmaker app repeaters - hard :( -7.5kg.
Think I need to loose some kgs, eating too much junk.
Sat - 30 min yoga app.
Sun - arch north 2 hrs - roof reset did a few probs, worked on woodie, circuit board warm down. Will probably do 15 min yoga app in a bit.
Sharkathon shown me that I can fit more into my week.
In particular stretching using yoga so will continue with this, try to fit in each day.
These next few weeks concentrate on fingerboard/beastmaker app + continue to climb 2-3 times a week.
This time in 2 weeks off to NYC worried that I will be "incarcerated" in Trump towers.
Probably alongside Melanie trump!
Have a good week everyone, stay safe.
-
26th - walk, some weights
27th - walk, some core
28th - surf for about an hour, wave copunt minimal, but a lot of paddling
29th - short walk, 8 k run. Some weights.
-
Just got back from a week in the states visiting the girlfriend, fairly good start to the year. She goes to the gym quite a lot so I went with her a couple of times. She's v impressive, deadlift almost twice body weight, squat 1.5X etc.
1st: Gym, back and shoulders. Felt weak on my "forte" after a few weeks of heavy eating and resting
2nd: Gym deadlifts and squats. First ever time deadlifting, did 100 pounds over bodyweight? Also squatted my bodyweight (haven't really done squats before either)
3rd: Walking round NYC, fitbit says 17,000 steps, 122 mins of activity
4th: Walking round NYC, fitbit says 27,000 steps, 204 mins of activity
5th: Walking round NYC, fitbit says 21,000 steps, 154 mins of activity
6th-8th: Nothing
9th: Squash, beat housemate 5-3
10th: Indoors, first climbing session of the year. Felt weak, got pumped on PE boulders. Climbed fairly well
11th: 5-a-side footie, cardio is shocking. Tweaked my hip.
12th Indoors, very busy wall and nothing new set for about two months. Elbow slightly tweaky after
13th: Nothing - Drive up North
14th: Simon's Seat
15th: Stoney
16th: Squash
17th: Indoors, good session
18th: Five-a-side footie
19th: Indoors, bad session
20th: Nothing - Drive up North
21st: Bradley and Turningstone Edge
22nd: Gardoms North
23rd: Squash
24th: Nothing
25th: Five-a-side footie
26th: Nothing
27th: Nothing
28th: Nothing
29th: Nothing
30th: Squash
31st: Nothing
Poor end due to resting from injury :( 65%. Not too bad, not too good...
-
I've not done much exercise, but I have lost 7lb since Christmas
weighed in at 14st 10lb today
:2thumbsup:
-
So so week, only two days to go, think I might make it!
Mon 23rd - arch north pottered about 2hrs, new set managed Hendrix in corner v3-5?
Flexibility came in handy so yoga seems to be paying off. + 15 mins stretching when I got home.
Tues - parents' evening at work. Late yoga app sesh when I got home 30 mins.
Weds + Thurs - yoga app 30 mins.
Fri - trx rings - pull ups, i,y,t's etc 5a beastmaker app repeaters - hard :( -7.5kg.
Think I need to loose some kgs, eating too much junk.
Sat - 30 min yoga app.
Sun - arch north 2 hrs - roof reset did a few probs, worked on woodie, circuit board warm down. Will probably do 15 min yoga app in a bit.
Sharkathon shown me that I can fit more into my week.
In particular stretching using yoga so will continue with this, try to fit in each day.
These next few weeks concentrate on fingerboard/beastmaker app + continue to climb 2-3 times a week.
This time in 2 weeks off to NYC worried that I will be "incarcerated" in Trump towers.
Probably alongside Melanie trump!
Have a good week everyone, stay safe.
Mon 30th - shed load of work at School - 30 min yoga app.
31st - Tate teachers meeting after work this evening - just finished 30 min yoga app.
Now having some tea at 10pm.
Finally completed my first Sharkathon. ;D
-
30th - usual walk plus woodie session. Failed on my goal which I have been trying for a few weeks, dropped last easy move. All getting reset for comp this week, oh well. Otherwise reasonably session
31st - usual walk, 25 min treadmill session, fast pace.
Weight still 13st 5, but otherwise a successful Sharkathon