UKBouldering.com
the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Luke Owens on December 05, 2017, 01:41:34 pm
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Quite keen to start exploring the Western Grit a bit more as it's just as far as Snowdonia for me. Seems pretty child friendly and weather is a bit more reliable this time of year.
Had a great session at Newstones the other week. I have a few random questions, What's the beta for "S&M" at Newstones with regard to what's in and what's out for the direct 7A+ version, is it an eliminate? I didn't try it when I was there but from videos I've seen the holds used on the left hand (6C?) version look really close to the direct such as the big looking shelf low on the left.
Is "Touch" at Hen Cloud ok to do with a couple of pads and without a spot and is it child friendly? This has stood out as a great looking line I'd like to try since seeing a video and some pictures.
Any other problems recommended up at Hen Cloud?
And lastly, any recommendations of classics around 7A in the area that suit no spotter and are child friendly? Not essential but anything crimpy about?
Keen to go try "Stall" at Gib Torr, seems to fit the bill and looks ace.
Cheers
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I'd recommend the following safe problems:
Baldstones Traverse - Baldstones
Sleeping with the flowers - Roaches upper tier
Nadin's Traverse
Night of Lust - Ramshaw. This is crimpy and great.
For S&M I head up using a pinch and the pocket and top out direct avoiding the sloping shelf to the left for feet.
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Stall would be ideal. Touch is pretty high and I think you'd want a spot/ team pad stack.
Most of the bouldering at fourth cloud, spring, lower and upper tier is pretty child friendly. Mine always likes knocking around there exploring, tend to choose sheltered spots as getting chilled is the main issue.
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Baldstones- Clever Skin
Gib Tor - Gibbering Left & Right
Ramshaw- Ossie's Bulge, various things behind it, Force 9 and scoop left of it
Roaches - various cellar/attic area
The list WITH spotters gets a lot more interesting, might be worth meeting up with people.
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Some of the more recent stuff I've done in the area would be ideal (good quality, right grade and all okay with one/two pads and no spot).
The ones that spring to mind are:
Hen Cloud
*Jimmy Hen Tricks 6C+ - Below the main bit of the crag where Borstal Breakout etc. is are some decent boulders scatter down the slope. On the lowest of these which is encountered soon after leaving the track on the normal crag approach climb the rounded right arete
*Mein Kraft 7A+ - The next block up the hill is a low slung bulge. SS on a rail at the far right end of the block and hug round leftward to finish up some juggy rugosites
Hit Rock Bottom 6C+ - Sit start left of the exit of Mein Kraft, slap the eponymous booty and top out leftward
Roaches Upper Tier RH
* Mixed Beast Feast 7A+ - Just up and left of Proper Gander/Ou Est Le Spit (20m west) in a sort of open gully behind the crag is a hanging prow with a groove in it. Climb the feature from a low start on sloper and roof layaway only the RH footblock is in for feet
* Atomic Dustbin 7A+ - This is among the boulders at the back of Piece of Mind. On the second to lowest back bit at the base of the slope. The rounded left arete of a boulder forming the uphill half of a mini gully. Climb the RHS of this from a SS on arete and vague crack.
Roaches Skyline Boulders in Woods
A couple of nice lower tier-esque boulders in the bottom west corner of the woods. Most quickly accessed via Nth Cloud, also not too far from 5 Clouds.
* Quite Something Else 7A On the RH of the two boulders,climb the central blunt rib with a reachy pull on with rib and chipped looking nick.
Roaches Nth Cloud
* The Real Thin 7A Left side of the Crystal Voyager wall, starting just right of the corner. Quality highball on nice pockets and mini crimps. 7A+ extension possible starting as per CV.
Roaches Bearstone Rock
This is the name given on the OS map to the westmost boulder at Roach End, obvious from the nearby parking. Worth a stop-off given its the shortest approach of any block on the crag.
* Ursa Major 7A+ - Climb the front right prow/arete from a sit start on a thin flake. A hard move off an unhelpful pinch.
The full list is here: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=27482.0
Other ones that spring to mind - Too Drunk 7a, Mansize 7b-ish, stuff on the Tetris block.
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Thanks for the info everyone!
Bonjoy, cheers for the new stuff. The Real Thin looks like my sort of thing from the vid in the other thread.
Planning to head over on the weekend, nice that all the crags are pretty close to each other, too much to choose from now though...!
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The new ones on hen cloud are good I did them last Autumn and a few other bits and pieces around there too. Plenty to go at