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news / Re: The inevitable E grade thread
« Last post by crimpinainteasy on Yesterday at 05:29:15 pm »I guess as someone else itt already said technique and strength are deeply intertwined. Being able to keep maximal weight on your feet requires a strong posterial chain, in addition to good balance and spacial awareness. Equally, even climbing on a steep board requires good technique and maintaining maximum body tension in order to reach the highest grades.QuoteIf anything to me it feels like with grit technique is 90% of the difficulty, a lot of stuff is tekkers and then feels piss when you refine it so much you flow on the send go.
I used to think that, but I was using power more than I thought. Since passing 40 my technique genuinely seems to be still improving, but my power is waning distressingly fast, as evidenced by problems like Brad Pit slipping from my repertoire. Sad times.
I do remember a series of training articles in OTE in the mid-nineties, in which the jist was that by the secret to all climbing was getting stronger. Not only would the moves get easier, you'd also gain stamina as who gets pumped on easy moves? At the time I assumed 'stronger' was a synonym for 'better', but in hindsight I realised they just meant stronger.QuoteSince the "West Side Story is E6" grading scale was invented last week, I was referring the decades-old established scale