UKBouldering.com
places to visit => uk and eire => Topic started by: Richie Crouch on August 02, 2006, 10:15:55 pm
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It may be a long shot but I have a mate who is a photographer/graphics designer pestering me to get down to Bristol for some climbing so he can practice taking some shots. Does anyone know of any bouldering venues worth spending more than a couple of hours at around the Bristol area? I'd imagine its mainly chuffing down that way but I did see a nice pic on t'internet of Ladye Bay (Clevedon) that appeared to have some worthwhile bouldering ???
If anyone has some fine esoteria to share or words of warning... please don't hesitate :)
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I should have a copy of the old ukb page about B**f**d and Ladye Bay somewhere, but can't remember how much L.B. info there was.
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Flicking through an old HIGH MOUNTAIN I just noticed there's a page detailing problems at Layde Bay. It's September 2003, Issue No.250, with a cover photo of Steve McClure on Rainshadow. It lists (no topo) about 10 problems up to B11 and a couple of projects.
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Cheers for the response, is there any chance you could scan in and e-mail me the magazine article when you find the time r-man? Theres no great rush but I would greatly appreciate! I had a look in work tonight in the old magazines rack but could only find early issues <100 and issue 251 just to take the piss! ;D
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Gollum's Cave on Clifton Down is ok ish. It's Ian Hill's baby and it has some decent eliminates and linkable stamina madness, and a smattering of used condoms, hyperdermic needles and lube tubes. I can send you a topo if thou wishes.
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and a smattering of used condoms, hyperdermic needles and lube tubes. I can send you a topo if thou wishes.
Sounds a bit like the Anglican Cathedral graveyard/gardens!
A topo would be fantastic Andy cheers :) I've pm'd you my e-mail incase it isn't showing up on the profile screen :bow:
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Looking for somewhere to boulder nearish to Bristol on sunday.
Is Clevedon likely to be the best option?
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What sort of time will you be there, Shark? I'll be down visiting family. Likely to be nearby but probably not able to get away. Still, you never know...
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Prepare to be disappointed. The coastal stuff near Bristol (Clevedon/Sand Point) is very fickle, could be very slimey given recent weather and is not (I’m sorry to say) high in quality. Wouldn’t recommend for non locals. Biblins would be the obvious go to in the summer but it’s currently shut for bats 🦇. (When does it open again?). There are some even crappier options closer to Bristol. Huntsham is a little further away but a better shout. Tombstone in Cheddar gorge is v.good, however there is nothing else there (bouldering wise) and it is most likely to be gopping.
Worth a drive an hour and half south for Dartmoor where there are some very good problems/ areas. If your heading back North, there is Haresfield which is a pleasant spot to break the journey but you’re probably better off carrying on until you’re in the Peak.
Huntsham or Dartmoor it is then?!
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No set time but I guess mid morning. Send me your number
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Thanks Brutus (I think)
The ukc database has some 3 star problems (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1544) at Clevedon but I guess you disagree.
I’m staying overnight in Bristol with my eldest but need to drop him back before heading North so didn’t want to stray too far from the city.
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Bourton Combe might fit the bill if you just want to fill a couple of hours, especially for a limestone cowboy such as yourself.
But it would need to have been dry for a wee while beforehand...
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Thanks Brutus (I think)
The ukc database has some 3 star problems (https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1544) at Clevedon but I guess you disagree.
Yup. I think you’ll be massively disappointed if you’re expecting 3 star problems. Maybe the Beastly Sqwirl has a different view now he’s traveled further afield?
You basically have steep grass slopes directly above the crag, seepage is highly likely.
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I can confirm there are definitely no 3 star problems at Clevedon
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What exactly are you after Shark? An afternoon hit for an hour or tow, less than half an hour's drive from Bristol City Centre, or whereabouts in Bristol?
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Prepare to be disappointed, there is very little noteworthy bouldering in the area. If you're desperate to get out, I'd probably go for Avon Gorge, which of all the low quality bouldering venues at least has the benefit of being convenient. The New Quarry traverse is not awful, and there's a handful of problems / micro routes on Sea Walls. The arete (7a?) and the Choice wall spring to mind.
I think you'll find more quality and enjoyment at TCA or Bloc though.
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Arguably there's no 3 star bouldering anywhere near Bristol. Get a trad partner for the Gorge :yes:
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Bathford / SITW is reasonably easy to get to, and you can find something on the freestanding boulders in OK condition to have a play on, even if All Elements / One Infinity roof is too damp to give you an excuse to not try them!
Lack of leaves on the trees at this time of year, means it gets a bit more light and air to the boulders, but still need a dry day or two before.
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Maybe my view is slightly rose tinted, but while I wouldn't travel for the bouldering around bristol it isn't that bad. Certainly not a bad way of spending an idle afternoon if you're in the area.
Sally in the woods is decent though hard to tell how dry it'll be. There's a nice new topo knocking around somewhere too.
I thought Clevedon was ok if you get in in decent condition (easier said than done).
Gollums cave could be a good shout for a conniseur of scatty limestone venues such as yourself shark. It'll make those drippy sessions on Ben's roof seem a lot better by comparison :D
I'd agree that the stuff at the base of sea walls and new quarry would be a good shout in the current conditions. It's very limited though, be prepared to start making up eliminates.
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If you're feeling brave winterbourne down has some fun short routes/very high boulder problems https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=563
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What exactly are you after Shark? An afternoon hit for an hour or tow, less than half an hour's drive from Bristol City Centre, or whereabouts in Bristol?
Yes - that sort of thing. My choice would be trad at Avon or Cheddar sport but Ben only boulders.
Didn’t appreciate how bad the options are. Sounds like we might as well just give it a miss
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I got my start at Clevedon.
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Sharkle. Was chatting to a Brizzle local the other day and he said that next to The Prince F8a on the Lower Ramp there are a couple of newly cleaned 7B/7Cs that look good - details on UKC apparently. Could be a good addition to your Avon circuit.